campervan trip outer hebrides

Outer Hebrides road trip: Island hopping in a campervan

Posted on Last updated: March 16, 2024

The Outer Hebrides has been on my bucket list for years. The Hebridean islands have beaches that are comparable to the Caribbean, with glistening white sands and clear turquoise waters. If you want to avoid the crowds of the North coast 500 then take a road trip to the Outer Hebrides. The Outer Hebrides, Scotland are so incredibly remote and quiet, and that is the beauty of visiting… you feel like you have the place all to yourself. Take your time to enjoy island hopping the Hebridean way. This is the ultimate guide to taking an Outer Hebrides road trip in a campervan, motorhome or car.

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Where are the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides, is also known as the Western Isles, and sit off the West Coast of Scotland. Each island is unique, with white sandy beaches, turquoise waters, diverse wildlife and vibrant culture. They are made up of more than 70 islands, with only 15 inhabited.

How to get to the Outer Hebrides? 

Getting to the Outer Hebrides is easier than you imagine. But be warned, you need to plan ahead. If you are not taking a campervan you can fly from central Scotland.

CalMac offer the ferry service to and around the Outer Hebrides. I advise booking your ferries before you take your road trip to the Outer Hebrides.

There are so many options for Outer Hebrides routes but we took the main ferry from the mainland port of Oban to Barra. The sailing is just short of five hours. We then sailed from Barra to Eriskay and travelled over the Eriskay Causeway to South Uist. 

We travelled up to Oban and booked a campsite near to Oban to break up our journey. We stayed at North Ledaig campsite for one night and this ensured that we were only a few minutes drive to the ferry terminal for our calmac crossing to Barra the next morning.

( Click here for our North Ledaig Campsite review )

There is also a direct sailing to North Uist from Uig ( Isle of Skye) and this crossing takes 1hr 45 mins. 

• Stay North Ledaig Caravan Site

visiting Outer Hebrides – island hopping in a camper van

Okay so we roughly planned our 1 week itinerary to the Outer Hebrides a few weeks before we left as I was keen to make sure we have the Calmac ferries booked as it was May half term. You can see from the Outer Hebrides map our basic route for the Hebrides island road trip. We had to change our plans last minute due to the Calmac ferry disruptions, and couldn’t make our way over to Lewis and Harris, but instead took a detour over to the Isle of Skye. So here is a ten day Itinerary for exploring the Outer Hebrides in a campervan. What a road trip!

Click here for our outer Hebrides Road trip map

Day 1 driving to Oban

e Wdrove from our home in Staffordshire directly to Oban with roughly two stops along the way. We stopped by at Tebay Services for breakfast. Having visited before and managing to spend about £50 on food, I made sure we were organised and took a takeaway breakfast picnic. There are plenty of benches to sit and have a break, and a dog walking area too.

Our first stop for the night – North Ledaig Caravan site. It is a lovely campsite near to Oban ferry terminal, and this campsite in Scotland has direct access to a shingle beach, great for paddle boarding. (You know how much we love a campsite with a sea view or a campsite with direct access to water !) There is a lovely walk from the campsite, and also a kids play area too.

Read our North Ledaig Campsite review

Day 2 – travelling from Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

We had planned our Outer Hebrides road trip to ensure we spent a good amount of time on each island. We really wanted to make sure that we had an opportunity to explore each of the islands in the Outer Hebrides. With three kids and a dog, it is so important to allow for rest days on a road trip.

We took the main Calmac ferry from the mainland port of Oban to Barra. The sailing is just short of five hours and the crossing was great. We booked our dog onto the ferry when we booked our ferry tickets, (pets travel free of charge). Pets are welcome on the outside deck and there are also dog friendly areas on the ferry too.

We arrived at our campsite – Croft no 2 , Barra in the evening. We were greeted by the owners and allocated a lovely spacious pitch with an incredible sea view.

What a treat.

We stayed here for three nights to allow us to explore Barra and Vatersay.

• Stay: Croft number 2 Campsite

Day 3 -4 Exploring Vatersay and Barra

Driving around Barra is an absolute joy. There are so many gorgeous beaches and places to stop and take it all in. The beach opposite the campsite is only a short stroll and you can take over your paddle boards or enjoy a swim.

The Croft Kitchen Honesty box on the Isle of Barra offers fresh eggs and home baking, and is only a short drive from the campsite (You will see the signs as you drive down from the campsite).

Stop by at Barra airport on the North part of the island (Traigh Mhor beach) where you may spot a plane landing if you are lucky!

If you take the causeway over to Vatersay you will find the most incredible beach.

Vatersay is the most southerly inhabited island of the Outer Hebrides and is now linked to Barra by a causeway.  Here you will find the most stunning beach – You can check out my stories over on instagram but this beach is perfect for paddle boarding too.

You can also pay to camp here for £10 charge a night. There is a watertap and one disabled toilet.

Vatersay Hall cafe is a great place to stop for a bite to eat, coffee or cake. I can say that the cakes are absolutely gorgeous and huge slices too!

• Stay. – Vatersay Community Campsite, Vatersay, Isle of Barra, Outer Hebrides, HS9 5YW

Day 5 Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

We were up early for our early morning ferry from Barra to Eriskay. We arrived really early but we hadn’t needed to arrive quite as early as we did, but never mind!

We visited Ardmore Coffee (Ardmhor, Isle of Barra, Outer Hebrides, HS9 5YB) for the most incredible milkshakes and a coffee of course. A nice start to the morning.

The ferry from Barra to Eriskay crossing takes about 50 minutes and is a pleasant journey.

The beach on Eriskay is incredibly breathtaking. With powder white sand and crystal clear water. We had the beach to ourselves and it is breathtaking.

You can stop in at the Am Politician (it opened at midday) and we all had lunch overlooking the beach. You can sit outside and inside and it is dog friendly.

Am Politican -Eriskay, Isle Of South Uist, Outer Hebrides, HS8 5JL

We then made our way to South Uist to Long Island Retreats for our next stop.

Day 6 -7 North and South Uist

Long Island Retreats ( Tigh Na Breacain, Lochskipport, Isle of South Uist, Outer Hebrides, HS8 5NS)

Here you will find Lindsay and DJ who live in the stunning surrounds of Loch Skipport, South Uist. I have been following Lindsay for some time on instagram and couldn’t come all the way to Outer Hebrides in our campervan without visiting their crofts. Here we stayed totally off grid, and had the opportunity to meet their ponies and feed the baby lambs and just enjoy some peace and tranquility on the island.

Crofter DJ and Lindsay are just incredible people, and they run quite a few tours and Lindsay offered so much advice for where to go and what to see. I only wish we had longer to stay here.

There is plenty to see and do in Uist;

• Benbecula beaches
• Uist Distillery
• Eat lunch at the Wee Cottage kitchen

Day 8/9 ferry from Lochmoddy to Isle of Skye

As I mentioned our ferry from Lochboisdale was cancelled so we had to leave Uist a day early to secure a ferry to the Isle of Skye and back onto mainland Scotland to get us back home in time for work and school.

This did mean that we had an unexpected stop over on the Isle of Skye and a full day exploring.

We managed to book a campsite last minute and we stayed on Kinloch Campsite – a friendly family-run campsite on the shores of Loch Dunvegan. At £57 a night I thought this was very pricey though, but it was a nice campsite with access to Loch Dunvegan. Dog friendly too.

The village of Dunvegan is a five minute walk from the campsite where you will find a good range of shops, cafes, pubs, restaurants. Dunvegan Castle is only a short drive away too.  

We stopped to look for Hectors Highland cows and found a lovely little spot for more coffee and cake (can you see a pattern here) I can highly recommend a visit here for some lovely sponge cake with a view.

Here we took the Ferry from Skye to Mallaig for our last stop before our drive home .

• Stay Kinloch Campsite

Day 10 Arisaig

We have stayed in Arisaig before for our first ever Scotland road trip – and fell in love with it. This time we stayed at Camusdarach campsite and what a stunning campsite it is.

Read our Camusdarach campsite review

We headed straight into mallaig for some pizza to take back to the campsite.

I can highly recommend The Bakehouse and Crannog for delicious takeaway pizza, and only a five minute drive from our campsite!

Camusdarach campsite is a lovely campsite, both family friendly and dog friendly and a perfect campsite if you love to paddleboard . It sits between Arisaig and Mallaig and has direct access via a footpath to 3 beautiful sandy beaches. Perfect to watch the sunset too.

There is also self catering accommodation here too.

• Stay: Camusdarach campsite

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, and this is for a family of five and a dog.

• Oban to Castlebay = £129.95
• Eriskay to Barra = £23.40
• Lochboisdale to Mallaig £102.60

Our Lochboisdale ferry to Mallaig was cancelled and we had to take an alternative ferry from Lochmaady to Uig. and then an extra ferry from Armadale to Mallaig.

• Armadale to Mallaig – £ 21.85

We really wanted to visit Lewis and Harris but the ferries and time was not on our side. We will be back to the Outer Hebrides and I hope you found our Outer Hebrides road trip helpful to plan your route.

Top tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

– The Hebridean islands have great roads that are really well kept. We found other motorists and cyclists to be extremely respectful and it was a pleasure to drive on the islands.

– There are passing places along the one track roads to allow you to pullover and pass other vehicles.  

– Keep an eye on your fuel as there are minimal places to top up. We filled the tank in Oban.

– Phone reception can be no existent and I actually had no phone reception at all in Barra. So make sure you download any documents you need and have an idea of restaurants/supermarkets and places to visit prior to your trip. I recommend purchasing a good map to take with you .

– Enjoy the honesty boxes and local restaurants along the way – so many amazing cakes and goodies!!

The Outer Hebrides is very open and can be really windy, make sure you take plenty of suncream and warm clothes!

If you have found this post useful for planning your family camping adventures, you can show your support by  buying us a glass of wine to watch the sun go down . Thanks so much!

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Campervan Outer Hebrides: Your Island-Hopping Guide

• 1st July 2022
• 11 minute read

In pictures, the beaches of the Outer Hebrides will be comparable to that of the Caribbean. In reality, the area’s remote wilderness and harsh Hebridean winds can be a completely different story altogether. Campervan the Outer Hebrides for both; expecting the latter and hoping for the incredible paradisiacal conditions. I swear – it’s worth the risk!

My Hebridean roots have ultimately led the Outer Hebrides to be an extension of my love for the Isle of Lewis and Harris . The beauty is undeniable across the chain of islands, so hop over to discover them for yourself. This island-hopping guide will provide you with an outline to plan whilst answering your questions along the way.

Are you interested in having the points of interest at your fingertips on your Google Map? Consider gaining access to the Scottish Highlands and Islands Google Map Legend .

Don’t have time to read this now? Save this blog for later on Pinterest .

Table of Contents

Isle of lewis & harris, frequently asked questions, outer hebrides campervan route, notes & coins, mobile router, little critter deterrents, waterproof shoes, campervan & motorhome services, check the wind forecast, sunday closures, get aurora alerts, find your own paradise, stocking up, download your maps, scottish highlands google map legend.

Campervan Outer Hebrides: Island Summary

The Outer Hebrides are often referred to as the Western Isles. The larger inhabited islands are the Isle of Lewis (and Harris) , the ‘Uists’ (North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist) and Barra. The ‘Uists’ are connected by stretches of road causeways. Some of the smaller islands include Vatersay, Berneray, Scalpay, Eriskay, St Kilda and the Shiants.

With mountains, moors and machair to beaches, bogs and black pudding; this island is a slice of heaven for the wild and free! It’s the largest and the most inhabited of the group – by far! Read this guide to visit Lewis ad Harris by campervan .

The island of Scalpay was connected to Harris by a road bridge in 1998. Whilst it may only be 2.5-square-miles in total, the island hosts a thriving fishing community. Cross the bridge to mingle with the locals, or follow the circular walk to see the Eilean Glas Lighthouse and maybe even spot some seals, otters, eagles, dolphins or whales.

Traffic from Harris rolls off the ferry onto Berneray which is connected to North Uist with a causeway. Needless to say, you shouldn’t overlook this tiny island as there are plenty of white-sand beaches to discover on every side.

This is the second largest island in the Outer Hebrides. As you drive through the Uists, you’ll pass an abundance of freshwater lochs which together resemble the up-close outlines of land on a map. These bodies of water provide the locals with great opportunities to fish, as well as any twitcher a setting to watch birds.

Connected to the Uists by causeways, you might not even notice the change of islands as you drive onto Benbecula. The east of the island is pitted with lochs, whilst the west coast contains the Benbecula Airport and Balivanich, a village with everyday conveniences such as; an ATM, post office, petrol station and supermarket.

South Uist is the longest of the southern chain of islands with its 20-mile-long west coast being an almost unbroken stretch of sandy beach. The true adventure of the island lies with those brave enough to divert from the main north-to-south road.

Eriskay is quaint and decorated with the colours of machair, so don’t pass through without nipping out for a wander. The roads are tiny with little space to park up, but you’ll notice visitors flock around The Politician for pub grub and a shortcut down to the beach. The wee island will burst your heart with joy as you struggle to know where to look.

Barra, otherwise known as ‘ Barradise ‘, is the Outer Hebrides in miniature. The A888 allows visitors to circumnavigate the 23-square-mile island in a matter of hours. Plus, the wide shallow bay of Traigh Mhor is the only beach airport in the world that hosts scheduled airline flights. Time your visit to watch one of the tiny planes take off from here, as one of the world’s most spectacular airports.

Now connected by a short causeway, Vatersay is a worthwhile trip from the island of Barra. There mightn’t be much on the island but it packs a mighty punch, especially as far as idyllic beaches go.

The faraway island of St Kilda used to be inhabited by 36 islanders, but now it’s ‘ home to nearly 1 million seabirds, including the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic puffins ‘, according to the National Trust for Scotland . Although St Kilda is most definitely not an island for campervans, you may still want to look into a boat tour from Harris or the Isle of Skye.

How to Campervan the Outer Hebrides

Compact and self-contained campervans will grant you the freedom to move around the Outer Hebrides without being scheduled to stop over anywhere in particular. Therefore, campervans are one of the most convenient means of transport for exploring the islands.

On the other hand, you will also come across many cyclists on the roads too as the Hebridean Way is a popular route for bikepackers.

Can You Take a Campervan to the Outer Hebrides?

Campervans, motorhomes and caravans are welcomed on all of the ferry services operating between the islands and the mainland. It is possible to hire a vehicle on the island, but most visitors bring a campervan from the mainland via one of the many ferry services available.

Can You Wild Camp in the Outer Hebrides?

Wild camping is permitted across Scotland , including the Scottish Islands. However, you could help nurture a sustainable relationship between van lifers, the community and the local wildlife by parking appropriately. Here are a few rules and recommendations:

• Do not park in passing places, in front of houses or in local business car parks.
• Try to avoid parking in crowded areas.
• The machair is a fragile haven for wildlife; it’s vital to the islands’ ecosystem and crofters’ livestock. Please do not drive or park your vehicle on top of the machair.
• Wherever possible, light a stove as opposed to an open fire. The models that are capable of lighting in the wind are recommended for obvious reasons.
• If in doubt, ask the land owner.

When is the Best Time to Visit the Outer Hebrides?

Truthfully I must admit, that as I compile this blog post my campervan is swaying in the Hebridean gusts between some pretty harsh rainstorms. This might come as a disappointment to read, as I’m sure that your research has revealed picture-after-picture of calm, turquoise and pristine beachscapes. Therefore, my advice to you would be to expect the worst and hope for the best. It isn’t always (and not normally) serenity in the Outer Hebrides, although there are months that are better than others with an increased likelihood of kinder weather conditions.

The months between July and August are typically the busiest period of the year because the weather is likely to be calmer and, the schools are closed for their summer holidays. May, June and September are the advised alternatives for a less crowded experience. All of these months (May to September) have the longest days so you’ll have more light hours to make the most of your trip.

What is the best month to travel to Scotland as a whole? Find out the cheapest, sunniest and driest time to visit in the detailed  month-by-month breakdown .

Where Do You Catch a Ferry to the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides are linked to the mainland via a number of vehicle ferry services. In addition, there are also daily inter-island ferries which frequently sail between Barra and Eriskay , plus Berneray and Harris . These ferry crossings are operated by Calmac Ferries . Their routes can be viewed on this map.

To Drive from the North to South:

The most popular route to the Outer Hebrides is from Ullapool (Mainland) to Stornoway ( Isle of Lewis ) . By starting here, you’ll hop between the islands from the largest (and most populated) to the smallest (and one of the lesser populated). Stornoway is the most populated settlement in the Outer Hebrides with the most services, conveniences and facilities – perhaps it’ll be easier for you to find your feet there first?

If you are already in Skye (or the above ferry is fully booked), then you can also catch a ferry from Uig (Skye) to Tarbert (Harris) . Furthermore, if you happen to be regretfully skipping the Isle of Lewis and Harris then there is also a ferry between Uig (Skye) and Lochmaddy (North Uist) .

To Drive from the South to North:

If you are driving the entire length of the Outer Hebrides from the south, then you could roll on and off the ferry between Oban (Mainland) and Castlebay (Barra) . However, ferries also operate from Tiree and Coll if you were looking to explore the Inner Hebrides as well.

Short Alternative:

If you have limited time to visit the Outer Hebrides, then a road trip between Stornoway (Lewis) and Tarbert (Harris) may be the perfect compromise.

Main Route:

The route for the entire Outer Hebrides road trip is from north to south, or vice versa. Below is a general itinerary which should aid you in your initial research stages and provide you with an outline of the ferry journeys.

⛴️ Ullapool (Mainland) – Stornoway ( Isle of Lewis ) Approximate Journey Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

🚐 Stornoway ( Isle of Lewis ) –  Leverburgh (Isle of Harris) Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

⛴️ Leverburgh ( Isle of Harris ) –  Berneray (North Uist) Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour

🚐 Berneray (North Uist) –  Eriskay (South Uist) Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

⛴️ Eriskay (South Uist) –  Ardmhòr (Barra) Approximate Journey Time: 40 minutes

🚐 Ardmhòr (Barra) –  Vatersay –  Castlebay (Barra) Approximate Journey Time: 30 minutes

⛴️ Castlebay (Barra) –  Oban (Mainland) Approximate Journey Time: 4 hours 45 minutes

Packing Essentials for the Outer Hebrides

Overall, you should diversify your suitcase of clothes to suit all weather conditions, particularly the harsh winds and cold rainfall. This isn’t a guide for the obvious such as a waterproof jacket , possibly a wetsuit and something warm , but a reminder to pack the smaller things you mightn’t have thought about.

From the expansive ocean views to the more mountainous regions of the Outer Hebrides, there will be opportunities to spot all sorts of wildlife regardless of whether you are a seasoned twitcher or a total newbie.

Of all the birds, the Golden and Sea Eagles are perhaps the biggest reward in the area. There is also plenty of sea life such as seals, dolphins, porpoises, Minke Whales, Orcas and the occasional Basking Shark. On land, you may spot an otter, red deer or a mountain hare. This diversity of wildlife is what attracts many visitors to the islands.

Don’t miss out and be curious by bringing a pair of binoculars with you. Besides, you might also want to check out what’s happening on the nearest trawler, or eye up the prettiest cottage in the distance!

The Outer Hebrides has plenty of facilities to accommodate campervans (for example, Hushinish Gateway ). Stock up on pound coins beforehand as you’ll be surprised at how much you spend on shower meters, parking , waste disposal facilities, laundry and fresh roadside eggs.

Similarly, you’ll require cash to donate to the community through honesty boxes for park-ups . Please be kind to do so; this may just be your holiday, but it’s their home. Donations will help contribute to the upkeep of the facilities and repair any damage that may be left as a result of the through traffic.

For a land far, far away you may be pleasantly surprised at the signal strength in the Outer Hebrides. It hasn’t always been up to the mainland standard but new phone masts have been installed more recently which has brought the islands back into the modern world of connectivity, especially on the Isle of Lewis and Harris .

There was one saving grace which allowed me to have a reliable internet connection to work remotely from the campervan; the amazing Netgear Mobile Router is the best internet setup for van lifers .

Luckily for the Hebrideans, the typically breezy days tend to keep the midges away. Still… On the rare calm days, you’ll want to be prepared. Ticks are not as common in the Outer Hebrides as they are on the mainland, though there is still the possibility, especially if you are passing through the Scottish Highlands and Skye.

Tick Remover

Midge Spray

Whether you’re scaling the highest peak on the island, wading through the sandy shores, hopping across bogs or you’re just having a shower in the public bathrooms… You will need footwear that will keep the water out or will be able to withstand being submerged in fresh or seawater.

Hiking Trainers

Tips to Campervan the Outer Hebrides

Out with the campsites on the islands, you can trust that the Calmac ferry terminals also offer free facilities to empty and refill your water and waste. For instance, the ferry terminal on Eriskay has chemical waste disposal, recycling bins, freshwater taps and a shower. This ensures that campers are never stuck for places to leave their waste responsibly, and, on every new island you hop on, you’ll be clean, refreshed and ready to go.

The Hebridean Winds can be extremely harsh, especially if they are propelling sand at you or have caught you on a boat! They are unforgiving, brutal and often dangerous. Make sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast whilst you plan your day. This will be particularly important if you are travelling around the islands in a high-sided vehicle. Trust me – I’ve had a few sleepless nights listening to the winds lift my van off the ground!

The Sabbath Day is practised on Sundays predominantly in the northern islands of the Outer Hebrides. Therefore, you should expect most of the supermarkets and shops to be closed whilst a significant proportion of the community attends church.

Depending on the season you visit, there may be a slight chance of witnessing the Aurora Borealis. In fact, the Isle of Lewis was the location of my first time seeing them, so you could be as lucky! Increase your odds by downloading the AuroraWatch app on your phone. These forecasts will notify you if there is any aurora activity.

The Outer Hebrides has many obvious beauty spots that can easily become overcrowded. At the same time, there are hundreds of hidden gems hiding along the coastline. To increase your chances of striking luck, view your map on Google through the ‘satellite’ layer. That way, if there are any white-sand and turquoise-watered beaches to be found, you’ll see them. Not so hidden after all!

The Outer Hebrides’ tourism is an important part of their local economy. This includes the money being spent in local shops, petrol stations, accommodation and pubs. Don’t be scared into thinking that you’ll need to stock up before sailing across as there are major supermarkets and smaller local shops across the islands. Plus, you might even sometimes find that the fuel costs are lower over there!

With the unreliable network service coverage on the islands, you should consider downloading the maps onto your phone beforehand so that they can be viewed offline. This can be done with Google Maps or Maps.Me.

In addition, you could have the showers, best park-ups, places to see and notable eateries at your fingertips with our Scottish Highlands & Islands Google Map Legend . It’s tailored to suit van lifers like us, so you shouldn’t have to do as much research.

This Google Map Legend showcases 140+ need-to-know coordinates within our bonnie Scottish Highlands & Islands:

• Awesome Wild Camping Park-Ups
• Best Walks, Viewpoints, Beaches
• Bucket List Locations
• Accessible Showers & Fresh Water Taps
• Relevant Links to Online Travel Guides

Let’s go! @katie.maree

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Hey! I'm a Scottish backpacker turned digital nomad with a passion for the outdoors, van life, and international travel. I travelled 100 countries before I turned 30 years of age. Now... Let's go everywhere!

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Home › Travel Guides › Scotland

A tour to the Outer Hebrides

A tour of the Outer Hebrides reveals magnificent beaches, beautiful wildlife – and a sheep traffic jam. Philip Renfrey takes the high road

By Practical Motorhome Published: June 27, 2023

Like many people during the lockdowns, we became interested in exploring Scotland’s more remote regions and, once we were free to explore at our leisure, a tour to the Western Isles was on the cards. Visiting in August 2022, our itinerary took us from Barra, north to Lewis and then home via Skye.

We set off from Hampshire and, on our first day, drove all the way to the Borders, stopping just before Gretna Green.

Next day, we enjoyed a very leisurely drive to Oban, where we stayed at Oban Camping and Caravanning Club Site. We made a detour on the way, following the B8074 along Glen Orchy. This is not only a most beautiful route, but also good practice for negotiating the single-track roads that are to be found throughout the islands.

The stopover gave us plenty of time to get to the Oban ferry terminal. Having checked in for the ferry, we enjoyed some amazing scallops at the nearby Oban Seafood Hut (aka the Green Shack).

• If you’re thinking of embarking on a tour of this stunning country and are wondering where to stay, take a look at our guide to the best motorhome sites in Scotland .

Spectacular sunsets

After a gentle crossing, we arrived at Castlebay on Barra, where we disembarked to drive to our first stop, Borve Camping and Caravan Site.

All arrivals there are met by the owner, Donald, and shown to their designated pitch. Our spot overlooked the Atlantic and the views were simply stunning, promising spectacular sunsets.

The next day, we rode our bikes into Castlebay to take in the sights. Unfortunately, the splendid medieval castle of Kisimul (known as the ‘Castle in the Sea’) was closed for repair work, but we could see it standing proudly in the bay as we enjoyed tea and cake at the Deck Café.

The Barra Heritage Centre is well worth a visit, too – the helpful staff were very knowledgeable about the history of the region.

A drive around the island, as we made our way to Ardmhor for the ferry to Eriskay, gave us our first experience of driving behind flocks of sheep! Luckily, we had plenty of time to make the ferry. We enjoyed a bite to eat at the Ardmhor Food Truck, a popular lunchtime stop – I thoroughly recommend their Venison Reuben Melt.

Negotiating the causeways

Our destination was the Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve and campsite, where we planned to stay for the next three nights.

A longish drive over the causeways through Eriskay, South Uist and Benbecula, before arriving at Balranald on North Uist, introduced us to the ‘game of chicken’ with the local drivers, who appeared to gauge their speed to make sure we overtook smoothly in the passing places. I have to say it worked really well and most people gave us a friendly wave as we passed.

The check-in at Balranald was most efficient. Although reception was closed when we arrived, a noticeboard informed us of our pitch number and we set up just in time to take a stroll back to reception as they were opening up to take our payment and explain the site layout.

The campsite is a little exposed to the elements and there were strong winds blowing for our stay, but the walk around the bay was stunning and the wildflower display simply beautiful.

This was our first experience of the machair, the Gaelic term for the unique low-lying grassy plains covered in wildflowers on the west coast of the islands (and Ireland), which is a truly spectacular sight.

We were at the RSPB reserve, so we decided to book a wildlife tour with a local guide, Steve Duffield of Western Isles Wildlife. Steve was very helpful in working out an itinerary for our tour and we enjoyed a great day out. We saw a lot of birds that we hadn’t seen before, including white-tailed eagles and other raptors. There were some heavy showers during the tour, but Steve worked out a route that kept us dry, and the time just flew by.

Heading north to the Isle of Harris

Now it was time to move north and explore the Isle of Harris. Our home for the next three nights was Talla Na Mara and the West Harris Trust Pairc Niseaboist site. Talla Na Mara, a community asset, has a highly regarded gallery and a café on site.

The Pairc Niseaboist campsite is small, with just seven pitches, but the facilities are clean and well maintained. A welcome email provided the codes for access and we set up with no difficulty.

We enjoyed walks along the beach and to the dramatic standing stone, McLeod’s Stone, which is a local landmark, as well as wonderful views across to Taransay. The weather was kind, if a little chilly. Thankfully, there were no midges, which was a constant throughout our tour.

With supplies running low, we headed for a local bakery, Croft 36, where the bread and cakes were superb. There’s an honesty box for payment, so cash is required. Alongside the bakery is a very small gift shop with a good selection of souvenirs.

Crossing to the Isle of Lewis

Moving to our next stay, on the Isle of Lewis, we took the circular route and stopped off at Grannie Annie’s, described quite accurately on Tripadvisor as “a quirky, curious little shop”. Another stop before we boarded the ferry was Shoreline Stoneware, at Locheport. The owner, Louise Cook, showed us around the gallery and explained the background to her work and that of the other artists on display. Their art was amazing and we packed our chosen treasures into the ’van with the utmost care.

The route gave us plenty of time to catch our next ferry, to Leverburgh. After disembarking, we enjoyed a (pre-booked) tour of Abhainn Dearg, a small distillery established in 2008.

The tour was very informative and a real change from large distillery tours we’ve taken in the past, as the process was clearly hands-on. The aroma in the barrel store was enticing: I couldn’t resist buying a bottle of the 10-year-old single malt. We were driving, so the tasting session was skipped, but take-away samples were also provided.

Our first stopover on Lewis was at the delightful Kneep Campsite, reached by a single-track road and managed by Fin Morrison, who is on hand to welcome most arrivals.

The beach here is beautiful and there are plenty of excellent walks. We made a short stay before moving on to Stornoway and Laxdale Holiday Park. Stornoway is a lovely little town, with a 19th-century castle and a museum. Although Lews Castle is now mainly a conference venue, the museum and café are well worth a visit.

Taking a gentle walk to town, we found plenty of interesting little shops. For the famous Harris Tweed, the Lewis Loom Centre, off the Bayhead Road, is a good starting point. We also decided to try the highly recommended fish and chips from Cameron’s Chip Shop, which were delicious.

Crofting and community

The following day, we had booked a Historical Tour of Lewis with HEB360. Our guide for the day, Derek, recounted some of the recent history of the islands, explaining the involvement of the industrialist and philanthropist Lord Leverhulme, and outlining the crofting lifestyle.

This helped us to understand more about the many community-based ventures set up across the islands. On the tour, we visited the Callanish Stones, Carloway Broch, Gearrannan Blackhouse Village and Norse Mill and Kiln, where Derek’s extensive knowledge added to what were already uniquely memorable sites.

Our tour ended at the most northerly point of the islands, Butt of Lewis and Port of Ness. Here Derek described how crofting and communal grazing were making a comeback. His love of the islands and his birthplace was very apparent, and the information about how the islanders have diversified to meet the challenges of a changing economy was illuminating.

Another abiding memory of our trip to the Outer Hebrides was the number of beautiful and isolated beaches, where we were often the only people to be seen on the sands.

Our journey continued with yet more stunning scenery on the way to Tarbert, where we caught the ferry for Skye and two nights at Camping Skye.

Skye is a much busier island, with plenty of attractions, including the Old Man of Storr, Kilt Rock, Mealt Falls and the Fairy Pools. Two places on the A863 that deserve a special mention are the Bog Myrtle Café and Dunvegan Castle, with its beautiful gardens and splendid seal colony.

All too soon, it was time for our return journey to Hampshire, again stopping overnight near Gretna Green. But it was a great trip and we were left with memories of stunning scenery, beautiful beaches and friendly islanders. Now to plan next year’s tour – to the Inner Hebrides!

• Looking for more great trips to embark on in Scotland? Then check out our guide to the North Coast 500 .

Tour essentials

Our motorhome.

We had no problems driving our 7.5m-long Auto-Sleeper Cotswold (with bike rack) on the ferries or the narrow roads. The ferry line instructions were clear while we were on board, and the roads have plenty of good passing places.

When to go to the Outer Hebrides

Although we travelled in August, the machair is at its best during the months of May and June.

Where we stayed in the Outer Hebrides

Most sites open April to October and charge £25 to £30 with hook-up.

• Borve Camping and Caravan Site
• Balranald Nature Reserve 
• Talla Na Mara, Pairc Niseaboist
• Kneep Campsite
• Laxdale Holiday Park
• Skye Camping

Find out more

Ferry services.

All of our ferry crossings were on time, with helpful and friendly staff. Dogs are not restricted to the car deck, but pet tickets are advisable to access the various other decks.

• Outer Hebrides Tourism
• Western Isles Wildlife tours
• Shoreline Stoneware Pottery and Gallery
• Abhainn Dearg Distillery
• HEB360 private tours

 Food and drink

Although there are many cafés and restaurants across the islands, most required a drive. We took advantage of the numerous food shacks found near our route. The food they served was a definite step up from the ‘greasy spoon’! We preferred to stock up from local shops and enjoy meals while admiring the glorious scenery.

Lead image: Getty/Feifei Cui-Paoluzzo

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A Trip to the Outer Hebrides in a campervan

Oh, the magical Outer Hebrides, what an amazing place to explore in a campervan and with regular ferry crossings the trip defiantly is worthwhile.

Arriving on these incredible islands, you really will feel like you have escaped from it all. Discover a different pace of life as you explore untouched coasts and countryside, fascinating history and unique island cultures.

The Outer Hebrides is a group of islands off the west coast of Scotland, joined by causeways and ferries. Explore Lewis and Harris, Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay.

It’s the captivating views, the endless beaches, ancient history, wonderful wildlife and finest fresh food that truly make a visit to the Outer Hebrides extraordinary. You can hear Gaelic being spoken or sung, listen to traditional folk musicians play in pubs, and see famous Harris Tweed being weaved by skilled local crafters. Or venture out on the wild side with cycling and mountain biking and of course, some brilliant water sports including sea kayaking and surfing.

Top 5 things to see in the Outer Hebrides

Kismul castle

Dating from the 15th century, Kisimul is the only significant surviving medieval castle in the Outer Hebrides. Kisimul Castle is the seat of the chief of Clan Macneil, who settled in Barra in the 11th century. Kisimul is known as the ‘Castle in the Sea’ due to its location on a rock in the bay, and can be accessed by taking a five minute boat trip from Castle Bay.

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/kisimul-castle/

Harris Tweed Company

Discover a stunning array of Harris Tweed attire from this family-run weaver, the Isle Of Harris Knitwear Company.The Harris Tweed Company offers a fantastic selection of Harris Tweed coats, jackets and knitwear for men and women. Browse beautiful items woven by MBE decorated weaver Donald John MacKay from Luskentyre alongside stylish Mario Barutti jackets. View the company’s own authentic brand of Hebridean knitwear in a stunning palette of colours that are hand spun and dyed on the island.

http://www.theharristweedcompanygrosebay.co.uk/

Calanais Standing Stones

Located in the west coast of Lewis, the 5,000 year old Stones are famous all over the world.

The Calanais Visitor Centre contains an interactive Story of the Stones exhibition, which explores how the standing stones were built and used and what they have meant to people through the centuries. This fascinating walk-through display has graphic panels, models and an audio-visual display with a seating area.

http://www.calanaisvisitorcentre.co.uk/

Cared for by the National Trust for Scotland. Discover the awe-inspiring archipelago, St Kilda – the UK’s only dual UNESCO World Heritage Site. Home to nearly 1 million seabirds, it includes the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic puffins.

With its dramatic landscape of sheer cliffs and sea stacks, St Kilda National Nature Reserve feels like a place perched on the edge of the world. It is Europe’s most important seabird breeding area and includes the world’s largest northern gannet colony. St Kilda has an enigmatic past and the people who lived here had a unique lifestyle, dependent on the riches of the seas around Britain’s most remote point.

https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/st-kilda

Black house Arnol

This traditional Lewis thatched house is fully furnished, complete with an attached barn, byre and stackyard.

Built in around 1880, No.42 Arnol gives a special insight into island life. This blackhouse was once the residence of a Hebridean crafting family and their animals, who moved out in 1966, and today it is preserved almost as the family left it.

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/the-blackhouse-arnol/

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Touring Scotland’s Outer Hebrides by Motorhome

The Outer Hebrides (also known as the Western Isles, Outer Isles or the Long Island) are one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland, with white sands, turquoise seas and very few people. Life moves at a slower pace here, especially on Sundays, and the roads are quiet. The weather’s not always reliable, but this is Scotland’s Wild West, with climate to match.

Some of the islands are connected by bridges now but you’ll still need ferries to get out to the Isles and between them. The most cost-effective way to do this is to buy a Hopscotch ticket from Caledonian MacBrayne (better known as CalMac), who operate almost all the ferries around the west coast of Scotland.

A Hopscotch ticket allows you to travel for 31 days from the date of your first ferry trip and you can use it to go in either direction between the islands. It doesn’t guarantee you a place on a particular sailing (booking in advance is highly recommended during busy periods) nor does it save you money, but once you’ve bought your ticket you don’t need to shell out again, which makes budgeting easier.

The other vital piece of equipment for your Hebridean trip is midge repellent. The islands are a stronghold of the Highland midge, which prefers human blood to all other forms of sustenance. A hat helps keep the little blighters out of your hair, but you’ll need to slather all exposed skin in repellent. Legend has it that Avon’s Skin So Soft moisturiser is the most effective (and that this fact was discovered by the Marines!) but there are plenty of others to choose from. You can check out the current ‘midge forecast’ here:  https://www.smidgeup.com/midge-forecast/

Some basics

The northern Outer Hebrides (Lewis, Harris and North Uist) are largely Protestant, and you will find most shops and pubs are shut on Sundays and ferries do not run on the Sabbath except on very rare occasions when the weather has caused sailing delays and small island shops are running out of food. The southern islands (Barra, South Uist and Benbecula) are largely Catholic and Sunday traditions are more relaxed here.

Gaelic is still spoken by many Hebridean islanders and road signs are in both Gaelic and English. It’s quite fun trying to work out how to pronounce Gaelic place names by reading the English and seeing how many letters are “left out”.

Most ferry terminals have black-water emptying facilities, toilets and showers, though you may have to hunt for them. Some also offer good long-term parking if you want to spend a day in town.

Wild camping is allowed but it’s always worth asking permission of the local crofter(s). And please don’t park on the machair: it’s both legally protected and easily damaged. Machair means a fertile low-lying grassy plain in Gaelic and it’s one of the rarest habitats in Europe, occurring in the Outer Hebrides and nowhere else. It is very rich in wildflowers, birds and insects and the locals are understandably protective of it.

Mull and the Inner Hebrides

The classic Hebrides trip starts at Oban, with the ferry to Craignure at the south-eastern tip of Mull, in the Inner Hebrides. If you have time, a drive round Mull is very rewarding. You can take the short ferry trip from Fionnphort at the south-western tip of the island across to the early Christian sites on Iona, which offers peaceful walking and biking. Don’t take your motorhome across: go as a foot passenger and return to your van on Mull in the evening.

If you travel up the west coast of Mull, you’ll see signs offering boat trips to Fingal’s Cave on Staffa, which inspired Mendelssohn. Its basalt columns are part of the same geological formation as the Devil’s Causeway in Northern Ireland and the acoustics are very distinctive.  The island, now owned by the National Trust for Scotland (NTS), is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its wildlife.

Starting on Barra

From the famously painted waterfront of Tobermory you sail to Castlebay on Barra, the most southerly of the Outer Hebrides. The bay takes its name from Kisimul Castle, home of the MacNeils since the 11 th century. There’s also a community-run shop, Buth Bharraigh, which stocks local crafts as well as food and drink.

From Barra there’s a causeway to Vatersay, with its abandoned village of Eoradail and abundant wildflowers in the machair.

Back on Barra, you’ll find seals at Seal Bay and, at Traigh Mhor at the northern tip of the island, the famous Barra airport. It’s the only airstrip in the world where scheduled flights land on the beach and are determined by the tide table. There’s an excellent airport café, open to non-flyers as well as passengers.

Nearby you’ll find the small Croft Number 2 Caravan and Camping site , which sits within 50m of the beach and has all modern conveniences for motorhomes, including a drying facility. It’s handily open all year.

South and North Uist, Benbecula and Berneray

From Ardmhor, near the airport, you catch the ferry to the small island of Eriskay, from which there’s a bridge to South Uist. There’s plenty to do here, whether you want to follow the Bonnie Prince Charlie trail, look out for golden and white-tailed sea eagles, grey and common seals and bottlenose dolphins, or check out the sweater-makers of Eriskay Jerseys. There are plenty of mapped walks and cycle routes to follow and, of course, there’s machair everywhere. If you prefer to see the sea, you can take a boat trip from Lochboisdale with Uist Sea Tours.

There are campsites at both Lochboisdale and South Lochboisdale that cater for campervans.  There’s nothing at the north of South Uist, but Benbecula offers the Shellbay Caravan and Camping Park at Liniclate.

North Uist has many monuments and ruins for lovers of ancient history. The Udal Peninsula is one of the most important archaeological sites in the UK, having been occupied from Neolithic times to the early 20 th century. Eilean Domhnuill is an artificial island in Loch Olabhat that also dates back to Neolithic times; there’s another stronghold in the middle of the tidal loch of Sticir, connected by stone causeways to the mainland.

If history’s not your thing, follow the Bird of Prey Trail to see hen harriers, merlins and short-eared owls, which forage in daylight, or take a walk across to uninhabited Vallay Island at low tide – make sure you get back before the tide cuts you off! At Malacleit, at Traigh Bhalaigh (Vallay) on the north coast of North Uist, you’ll find a typically peaceful crofting village. You can also follow the Uist Sculpture Trail or sections of the Hebridean Way on foot or by bike.

From Lochmaddy you can take a CalMac ferry back to Uig on Skye and head home if you’ve run out of time. But there’s plenty more to see and do in the Western Isles first.

At the southern end of Berneray, for example, you’ll find the monument to Aonghas Mor MacAsgaill, better known in English as The Giant MacAskill, who spent most of his life in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, and apparently topped out at 7’9” – the “world’s largest giant”. He was nearly as tall as the standing stone at Cladh Maolrithe, which is 8’ tall – at least the bit that you can see. The part underground is said to be just as big.

From Berneray you take the ferry across the Sound of Harris, with views over the Atlantic towards St Kilda, and land at Leverburgh at the south end of the Isle of Harris. It’s really the same island as Lewis, but there are geological and cultural differences between the two that make them feel completely different. The ancient rocks of the east coast of Harris, some of the oldest in the world, stood in for Jupiter in Stanley Kubrick’s “2001, A Space Odyssey”.

You can walk and cycle your way round Harris on several well-laid out mapped routes. Or you could take a day-trip to St Kilda or the Shiant Islands, weather permitting, or discover maritime history at the old whaling station at Bunavoneader and the first lighthouse in the Western Isles on Scalpay.  St Clements Church, at Rodel, is also worth a visit. Dating from the 1520s, it has a surprisingly large tower and a peaceful, if scattered, graveyard.

Wildlife you might see includes otters, seals, porpoises, red deer, golden and sea eagles, hen harriers, golden plover and even corncrakes (though you’re more likely to hear those than see them). If you go in June, look out for the golden flowers of bog asphodel on the moors.

But many people go to Harris for the beaches: Luskintyre, Horgabost, Huisinis (Hushinish) and the others all boast miles of pure white sand and sea that could be Caribbean … until you dip a toe in. Some hardy folk come to the Hebrides to surf – the waves roll in from America with nothing to stop them – but it’s not a place for the casual board-rider. The sea provides some challenging fishing, too.

Then, of course, there’s the world-famous Harris Tweed . You can watch it being made at the Harris Tweed Exhibition at Drinshader, or buy it from the official shop and warehouse in Tarbert. Tarbert is also home to the island’s first distillery, which also has a canteen serving local food.  The distillery produces both whisky and gin with a distinctly maritime flavour, and is very much a local and social enterprise.

Without doubt, the most famous thing on Lewis is the Callanish (Calanais) standing stones, one of the most complete sets in Europe and, unlike Stonehenge, not fenced off. Dating back some 5,000 years, they’re also earlier than Stonehenge, and the rock they’re made from (Lewisian Gneiss) dates back some 3000 million years. They’re particularly atmospheric at or just after dawn and dusk. There are three other stone circles nearby, prosaically named Callanish 2 (Cnoc Ceann a’Gharraidh in Gaelic), Callanish 3 (Cnoc Fhillibhir Bheag) and Callanish 4 (Ceann Thulabhaig).

Dun Carloway Broch, one of the best preserved brochs in Scotland, is about 5 miles from Callanish. It’s a double-walled stronghold with a staircase between the two walls and dates from the early Iron Age. At Great Bernera (not to be confused with the island of Berneray), there’s a reconstructed Iron Age house, excavated from the sand after a storm. The beach here is worth the detour by itself.

Further up the coast you’ll find the Arnol Blackhouse, a traditional straw-thatched house with no chimney (so the fire’s smoke blackened everything inside, where both humans and livestock lived. The walls are made of mortarless stone and the floor is just bare earth. Houses like this one were in use right up ‘til the end of the 19 th century. Between Great Bernera and Arnol are the Norse Mill and Kiln, reflecting the Viking influence on the region.

Two places on Lewis are particularly good for spotting basking sharks: the Port of Ness and Mangersta Head. The best time to see these huge plankton-feeders is July and August as they trundle through the water, mouths agape for their tiny prey.

Also in July, you’ll find the Hebridean Celtic Festival in the Western Isles’ capital, Stornoway. It’s a family-friendly event showcasing all types of Celtic music in large and small concerts and free events all over town. Stornoway also produces famously good black pudding and is the ferry port from which you return to the mainland, landing at Ullapool.

You’ll find Celtic traditions celebrated all over the islands all year by the craft-makers who live there, selling their work either from their studios or through shops. Their works reflect the light and colours of the islands, their peacefulness and storms, and make unique souvenirs of your trip to Scotland’s Wild West, the Outer Hebrides.

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Outer Hebrides Motorhome Route

The perfect 10 - 14 day motorhome guide to the outer hebrides.

Western Isles Motorhome Holiday Route Plan 10 – 14 Day Motorhome Route

A motorhome holiday allows you the freedom to travel and move around without being timetabled to be in a certain location at a certain time.  The Scottish west coast is one of the most beautiful places to explore on your motorhome holiday and when you combine a tour of the Western Isles you are without a doubt in for a truly wonderful holiday.  Picture a paradise of powder-white beaches and the clear blue water of the Atlantic waves, dark moorland and rugged mountains, amazing wildlife and rich and vibrant culture.   Just 30 miles off the north-west coast of Scotland lies the Outer Hebrides or the Western Isles, this is an idyllic chain of Islands.  There are at least 70 named islands in the group, of which 15 are permanently populated - total population around 26,500. The Outer Hebrides consist of the Isles of Lewis, Harris, Scalpay, Beneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay.   This route combines some of our Scottish west coast route with the Outer Hebrides route and will give you some suggestions of where you can park on the Outer Hebrides as well as places that you can visit.  We enjoy the freedom of wild camping but have suggested some campsites to stay at along the way.

Day 1 - Of Motorhome Holiday 

Starting in Perth at Scottish Tourers base, take the A9 North towards Inverness, depending on how long you want to drive about 45 minutes from Perth is the Blair Atholl Campsite which is great for an overnight stop if you don’t want to go far and you could visit  Blair Atholl Castle or if you are happy to continue north then head for Aviemore which is 2.5 hour’s drive from Perth.  

House of Bruar

On the way to Aviemore, we would recommend stopping at the House of Bruar, the house of Bruar has a fantastic food hall, selling some of the finest meats at the butcher counter and cheeses in with the delicatessen, we think it’s a must-stop to pick up a few treats for your holiday.  There is also the opportunity to browse in the clothing and homeware stores and have a huge range of branded clothing for any gifts or something special for yourself.

The Highland Folk Museum (Turn off at Kingussie)

This is a fantastic stop and gives visitors a flavour of how Highland people lived and worked from the 1700s up until the 1950s, this is done by displaying over 30 historical buildings and furnishing them appropriate to their time period.  Some have been built from scratch on-site and some have been moved here from other locations.

The site is a mile long with 1700s Township (featuring 6 houses) at one end through to our 1930s working croft at the other, located at Newtonmore in the Scottish Highlands amidst some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

       Highland Folk Museum at Kingussie   Campsite

Glenmore campsite is only a short walk from Loch Morlich beach but the campsite itself is with the Glenmore forest park and has all the facilities you will – a campsite can be a good base for your first night and allow you to get to know the motorhome.

Wildcamping is available up at the Ski centre - dont forget to put ypour £5 in honesty box, in the morning you could enjoy a trip on the funicular railway, the 2 km journey up the hill is the highest railway in the Uk.      

Day 2 of Motorhome Holiday Route 

If you have children with you, we highly recommend visiting Landmark before you make the journey to Ullapool – the children will love exploring the nature reserve and playpark.   Landmark Forest Park

Landmark Forest adventure park is just outside of Aviemore at Carrbridge, you can easily spend the whole day here exploring they have just recently opened Dinosaur land, there is the opportunity to explore between the ancient pine trees hunting for red squirrels to the more adrenaline-filled water slides.  This is a great day out and there will be something for everyone.

  Strathspey Steam Railway

In Aviemore itself, the Strathspey steam railway has been running for 42 years now the steam train and the line was reinstated by a team of volunteers who have worked to keep the train in a fantastic condition.  This nostalgic train is a must to enjoy the beauty of the Scottish highland while you sit back relax and enjoy a cream tea.

When you have finished exploring Aviemore continue to head north towards Inverness and take the A835 towards Ullapool.

Broomfield Campsite is near the ferry port, and in a fantastic location to watch the ferries and fishing boats come and go, within walking distance of the town, so you can enjoy a meal out in one of the many restaurants – the seafood shack is highly recommended.

Broomfield campsite

Day 3 of Motorhome Hire 

Today we will be leaving the west coast of Scotland, and catching the ferry at Ullapool to take go to Stornoway. The ferry to Stornoway (Isle of Lewis) takes just over 2 and a half hours, while onboard you can enjoy a cup of tea in the restaurant and enjoy the crossing.

On arrival to the Isle of Lewis, take the A857 East then turn right onto the A858 and turn right after a few miles to visit the Blackhouse Museum.

1.      The Blackhouse Museum

This museum is run by Historic Scotland - you can walk around the blackhouse to see how Islanders lived in the houses where they lived alongside their animals and without chimneys.  The Blackhouse here at Arnol was probably built as recently as 1875 it’s fully furnished as it would have when it was inhabited but the design of black houses dates back hundreds of years.

2.      The Whalebone Arch

The Whalebone Arch, in Bragar, is one of the landmarks you will see as you travel around the northern tip of Lewis, The Whalebone Arch, erected by the former village postmaster Murdo Morrison, was formed from the jawbones of a giant whale which beached itself and died in Bragar Bay after been harpooned by hunters. The whalebone arch has become a bit tourist attraction standing at 25 feet and weighing 4 ton it has been coated in fibreglass to preserve and protect, the Harpoon hangs in the centre of the arch.

Head South on the A857 to the Village of Callanish here is the Callanish Stones.

3.      Callanish Stones

Construction is thought to have taken place between 2900 and 2600 BC, it is possible though that some buildings were here before 3000 BC, there was a tomb built into the site at a later date, investigating some of the debris from the destruction of the tomb would suggest that this site was not used between 200 BC and 1700 BC, there are 13 primary stones which form a circle 13 metres in diameter there is an avenue of stones on the north approach and shorter stone rows to the south, east and west approaches, the layout resembles a Celtic cross, and the stones vary from one metre to five metres in height, The Visitor centre gives a fascinating insight to the area.

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/calanais-standing-stones/

Our last recommended visit for the Isle of Lewis today is the iron age village then there is a fabulous overnight spot at Uig.

4.      The Iron Age Village

The iron age of Great Bernera was first discovered at Bosta in 1993 after a huge storm and gales revealed the remains, long excavations followed which revealed some very important and interesting finds, using the new information archaeologists built a reconstruction of an entire iron age house of the time, which is part of the exhibition and is open to visitors.

https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/see-and-do/bosta-bostadh-iron-age-house-p523981

Ardoil Campsite Isle of Lewis located just outside of Uig you will find a basic but fantastic community-run site which relies on donations from their customers – there’s is a tap to top up the fresh water, chemical waste point, toilet/shower block and you can park on the edge of the beach in this stunning location.

Traigh na Beirigh at Kneep is a lovely campsite ideal for motorhomes parking on the Isle of Lewis, nestled in the sand dunes whit white sandy beaches making this an ideal base for overnight.

Wildcamping on the Isle of Lewis is also an option and The outer Hebrides welcome responsible motor homers, see below the photo of us parked up on the white sandy beach by Uig – we have many places where wild camping is available and this can be found in the pre-programmed sat nav which comes with your motorhome.

Day 4 of motorhome hire 

Today we continue our outer Hebrides adventure round the west coast of the Isle of Lewis by heading south towards the Isle of Harris but before we leave the Isle of Lewis we recommend another few stops.

5.      Seatrek

Seatrek is based in Uig which we think is one of the most beautiful places in the Uk, they offer boat trips around the Hebrides and land on uninhabited Islands with the opportunity to see whales, Dolphins, Basking Sharks, Sea Eagles, Puffins.

6.      Abhainn Dearg Distillery

Abhainn Dearg Distillery (pronounced Aveen Jarræk), located in Uig on The Isle of Lewis.  The distillery was founded by Mark Tayburn (Marko) and is the first legal whisky distillery in the Outer Hebrides in almost two hundred years. The distillery was established in 2008, and the first spirit to leave the island was in 2010 when two small casks of new spirit were sold.  The distillery offers its guests a guided tour around the distillery and the opportunity to have a wee dram at the of the tour or why not treat yourself to something from the distillery shop.

7.      Lewis Chessmen

The Lewis chessmen They were found in the vicinity of Uig on the Isle of Lewis in mysterious circumstances. Various stories have evolved to explain why they were concealed there, and how they were discovered. All that is certain is that they were found sometime before 11 April 1831, when they were exhibited in Edinburgh at the Society of Antiquaries for Scotland. The precise findspot seems to have been a sand dune where they may have been placed in a small, drystone chamber.

The chessmen were probably made in Norway, in the 12th century, during that period, the Outer Hebrides, along with other major groups of Scottish Island, were ruled by Norway. The chessmen were discovered in early 1831 in a sandbank at the head of Camas sandbank on the west coast.

Leaving the Isle of Lewis, we head South on the A859 to Harris, following the coast road. On arrival to the Harris, you will probably be ready to look for somewhere to stay overnight, motorhome parking is available in campsites or wild camp spots.

Campsites Isle Of Harris

Tallanmara Campsite this is a more conventional campsite, with available electric hook up, shower facilities, chemical toilet disposal, water and recycling centre.

Seilebost School There is only a few pitches available within what was the old primary school ground but it has access to a toilet block and electric hook up and only a short walk to the beach.

Community Spot There is also the opportunity to stay overnight in designated spots where a fee of £5 is asked as a donation, the money raised is used to maintain the camp spots but also help with community projects, these spots are marked with a small sign to identify the area and offer fantastic views and located in Luskentyre and Seilebost.

Wildcamping parking on the Isle of Harris in our opinion is stunning and have discovered many wonderful parking spots on the Isle of Harris.  We consider Harris to have some of the best beaches in the world, you can even drive the motorhome right down to some of the beaches and stay overnight.  Get the Barbeque out table & Chairs out of the garage, sit down relax and enjoy a glass of your favourite tipple in a remote area in peace & quiet which is what a motorhome holiday is all about.

Day 5 of Motorhome Hire Holiday 

Before leaving Harris to head for ferry to North Uist there is a few things we think may be of interest to you.

8.      Harris Tweed

Harris is famous for its weavers who make the Harris tweed. As you travel Look out for the independent small shops and workshops where you can buy direct from the weaver.  All the weavers are self-employed and can work for any of the three Island mills or make and sell their own cloth independently to order. These independent weavers use yarn dyed and spun by the mills but may warp it themselves before returning the cloth to the mill for finishing and stamping by the HTA.

9.      Harris Gin

The Harris Gin distillery located in Tarbert, there is a gift shop and team room and they also have distillery tours and tastings allowing you to discover more about how they use a special blend of 9 botanicals and sugar kelp seaweed which is hand collected from the local area this gives the Gin its own distinctive flavour.

To get over to the Isle of Uist, at Leverburgh which is in the very south of the island board the Ferry to Isle of Berneray and then on to North Uist which takes around 2.5 hours sailing time.

North Uist is a landscape of fresh and saltwater lochs bordered on its western side by miles of sandy beaches, and cultivated crofts. North Uist is very popular with walkers, bird watchers, motor homers and cyclists alike.

On the west side of the island the road follows the machair, (the fertile coastal grassland bordering the sand dunes), whilst the eastern side is mainly water. This area is a fisherman’s and bird watchers paradise.

The exception is the south-east of the island, which is very flat and covered with a patchwork of peat bogs, low hills and lochs, with more than half the land being covered by water. Some of the lochs contain a mixture of fresh and tidal salt water, giving rise to some complex and unusual habitats.

10.  Otter Spotting

Otter spotting is a popular island attraction as the east side of the island is a landscape of inland and sea lochs, inlets bays and channels. Study the tide timetable as an otter is much more likely to be seen on an incoming tide, roughly 2 – 4 hours before high tide. As it comes towards high tide, the Otter usually heads for its holt, which is its home and rest area. It is also where they rear their young.

11.  Barpa Langass

Barpa Langass to the south of the Island is a 5,000-year-old burial chamber thought to be the burial place of a Neolithic chieftain. Trinity Temple is a historic ruin, listed as of European significance and possibly Scotland’s oldest University. The building is the remains of a medieval monastery and college, the building has been extended up to the 16th Century but destroyed after the reformation. Again, restored in the 19th Century. You can park just off the main A865 road, near Temple View Guest House, Access is through the gate and about 200 metres walk from the car park.

North Uist Campsites

Balranald Hebridean Holidays located by the beach and within the RSPB nature reserve there is the opportunity to observe birds that have made a home in amongst the machair.  The campsite itself caters well for motorhome’s and offers laundry facilities, as well as toilet and shower blocks, chemical waste point and electric hook up you, will find yourself once again only a few meters from the beach.

Moorcroft Campsite on the outskirts of Cairinish is situated on a working croft and is a family run site with all the facilities you need for refreshing and emptying your tanks.

Wildcamping   The map below give an example of potential wild camp spots within North Uist.

Day 6 of Motorhome Hire Holiday 

Our Outer Hebrides route will continue to take us South to south Uist.  South Uist is a stunningly beautiful island of crystal-clear waters and white powder beaches to the west and heather uplands dominated by Beinn Mhor to the east.

12.  The Kildonan Centre

The Kildonan Centre is a heritage and cultural centre which includes a museum and a craft shop. The museum itself is owned by the South Uist Historical Trust. Originally a school it has been extended and developed into a multipurpose centre which is a Registered Museum.

13.  The Cladh Hallan Roundhouses

The Cladh Hallan Roundhouses are an archaeological site on the island, noted as the only place in Great Britain where prehistoric mummies have been found. In 2001 a team of archaeologists found the remains of what are believed to be two mummified Bronze Age bodies, buried under the floor of a Roundhouse at Cladh Hallan.

One of them was a male who had died around 1600 BC and another a female who had died around 1300 BC. At first, the researchers did not realize they were dealing with mummies as the soft tissue had decomposed and the skeletons had been buried.

Tests showed that both bodies had not been buried until about 1120 BC and that the bodies had been preserved shortly after the death in a peat bog for 6 to 18 months. The preserved bodies were then apparently retrieved from the bog and set up inside a dwelling but the reason why the bodies were mummified is a complete mystery.

14.  Askernish Golf Club

Askernish Golf Club is home to “the most natural golf course in the world” and is a favourite stop of ours on the Outer Hebrides route.  Old Tom Morris came to South Uist in 1891 to create a course at the request of the wealthy landowner - Lady Cathcart, so that she could impress her high society guests. Old Tom created an 18-hole course that was maintained by the local crofters until the early 1920s when the demand for golf declined and meant that maintaining the course was not viable.

Over the next 80 years, the course was not maintained, and it went back to being wild. In 2005 a group of locals decided that they wanted to reinstate the golf course, and with the help of some of golf industry’s biggest and best names, they set to work restoring this lost course. In 2008 the course was reopened as an 18-hole facility that has received the highest acclaim from golfing media and beyond.

15.  Flora MacDonald Monument South Uist

After the Jacobite’s lost the battle of Culloden, Bonnie Prince Charlie fled to the Island to evade capture from the British troops, with the idea of fleeing to France, his supporters intended to smuggle him from Uist to the Isle of Skye, and then onto France by boat.

Flora MacDonald agreed to help them and on 28 June 1746 Flora with her Irish maid Bett Burke they sailed from Benbecula over to Skye, however, the maid was actually a disguised Bonnie Prince Charlie, however, Flora was captured by the government troops and imprisoned at Edinburgh, after her release in 1747 she returned to the Island, and the plan on the map is believed to be Flora, s house.

There are not many campsites available on the south of Uist, but remember your sat nav is pre-programmed with places to wild camp, empty the chemical toilet and fill up with fresh water.

Kilbride Campsite is ideal for those looking for a bit of peace and quiet, the beach is just across the road and a café on-site plus all the amenities you need to stock up and refill.

Gleanndal Campsite this campsite has a view across the loch and has some pitches with electric hook up, toilet/shower facilities and chemical waste empty point.

Wildcamping.

The map below gives you an idea of wild campsites available.

Day 7 of Motorhome Hire Holiday 

On the Outer Hebrides holiday tour, we suggest visiting the Isle of Eriskay which lies to the South of South Uist and is connected to the isles to the north by a causeway constructed in 2001.  The name comes from the Norwegian name Èirisgeigh meaning Eric’s Isle.  The ferry to Barra sails from the southern end of Eriskay.

Whiskey Galore

The SS Politician was an 8000-tonne cargo ship which left Liverpool on the 3rd February 1941 laden with amongst other things 260,000 bottles of whisky, bound for Kingston in Jamaica and New Orleans. The whisky was for the American market and therefore no duty had been paid.

On the morning of 5th February, a young man was combing a beach in South Uist when he saw the ship in trouble. After a valiant struggle by the Captain, Beaconsfield Worthington, to keep his ship on course, the SS Politician eventually ran aground in the storm onto sandbanks off the Isle of Eriskay where she began to flood.

When the locals learned from the crew exactly what the ship was carrying, a series of illegal salvage operations took place at night, before the customs and excise officials arrived. The islands supplies of whisky had dried up due to war-time rationing, so the islanders helped themselves to some of the 260,000 bottles of whisky before winter weather broke up the ship. Boats came from as far and wide as news of the whisky travelled across the Whole Outer Hebrides.

The official salvage attempts were not going too well, and it was eventually decided to let the Politician remain where she was. Mr McColl (the customs officer), who had already estimated that the islanders had stolen 240,000 bottles of whisky, ensured that there would be no more temptation. Mr McColl applied for and was granted permission to explore the SS Politician hull.

  Islander Angus John Campbell, commented, “Dynamiting whisky. You wouldn’t think there’d be men in the world so crazy as that!” In 1987 Donald MacPhee, a local South Uist man, found eight bottles of whisky in the wreck. He sold them at auction for £4,000.

The wreck of the SS Politician still lies off the coast of Eriskay.    

Isle of Barra

Isle of Barra is the most southerly of the inhabited islands in the Outer Hebrides . If you are travelling to Isle of Barra from Uist take the small car ferry (Ok for Motorhomes) from Eriskay which will bring you to Ardmhor jetty, visit Calmac Ferries website for ferry times.

Long famed for its beauty, boasting beaches, hills, machair and moor all in a small island - Barra is a special place to visit, the airport is one of the most unusual in the world, with flights landing on the beach at Cockle Strand in between tides. At high tide, the runway disappears beneath the waves.

16.  Allasdale Bronze Age Burials

In May 2007 Televisions Time Team came to the hamlet of Allasdale to investigate the exposed remains of Bronze Age burials and Iron Age roundhouses in sand dunes that had been previously uncovered by storms. The programme was broadcast on 20 January 2008.

17.  Sea Kayaking

For an amazing sea kayaking experience, take to the water on a guided tour with Clearwater Paddling from Castlebay and explore a world of beautiful islands and sheltered bays whilst keeping your eyes peeled for the wildlife.

18.  The Deserted Village

Balnabodach is a small township on the east side of Barra, down by the shore of the loch are the remains of two earlier settlements, and it is here that the present archaeological studies are focused,  The loch-side must have been a favoured spot for settlers for many centuries. The earliest artefact yet recovered is a barbed arrowhead of flint, dating around 2000 BC.

Excavations in 1996 found the remains left by 'Iron Age' people who lived here in the period around 200BC - AD200, the rubbish left behind by these early settlers betrayed their presence. Nearly 250 pieces of their handmade pottery were found including pieces of bowls decorated with incised patterns.  There were also some flint tools including a small cutting blade and scrapers for cleaning skins.

19.  Kisimul Castle (Seat of the clan MacNeil of Barra)

The most visible of all Barra's heritage is this restored medieval tower house castle with a curtain wall. Dictated by the shape of the low rock island on which it sits, the pentagonal castle is the first thing holidaymakers see when they come to Barra by ferry from Oban.

The castle would have been difficult to capture being surrounded by the sea yet having a freshwater spring. You come to the castle by boat in a journey of 200 yards from Castlebay main street.  As you approach the castle, look for a large ring of rocks to the east of the landing place: this was a catchment basin to trap fish when the tide whet out, again vital if the castle was besieged.

Like most castles, Kisimul is cold and draughty but you will enjoy clambering about. Not to be missed, in the Great Hall, is the collection of English bayonetted muskets and pikes used at the Battle of Culloden. Look out for the spartan toilets, flushed twice daily by the tide! Much of what you see is the restoration work carried out by the clan chief Robert Lister MacNeil between 1956 and 1970.

20.  Annie Jane Ship Disaster

One of the saddest events to befall the island happened when the Annie Jane, a three-masted immigrant ship out of Liverpool bound for Canada, struck rocks off West Beach during a storm in September 1853. Within ten minutes the ship began to founder and break up casting 450 people into the raging sea. Despite the conditions, islanders tried to rescue the passengers and crew.

There were only a few survivors rescued. A small cairn and monument mark’s the site where the bodies recovered from the sea were buried. The inscription reads: "On 28th September 1853 the ship Annie Jane with emigrants from Liverpool to Quebec was totally wrecked in this bay and three-fourths of the crew and passengers numbering about 350 men women and children were drowned and their bodies interred here."

After a busy day travelling, we recommend staying parking for one last night here in Barra on The Outer Hebrides before taking the ferry back to the mainland.

Borve Camping and caravan site only a few miles away from the ferry port at Castle by, this is a great overnight stop with electric hook up, laundry facilities.  Why not stop relax and enjoy your favourite tipple as you enjoy a sunset.

This is the end of our Outer Hebrides motorhome tour, from here take the ferry back to the mainland from Castle by to Uig on the Isle of Skye (if your 14 nights) or if you are short for time take and only had 10 nights we recommend taking the ferry back to Oban.

From here we will pick up our Scottish west coast route again,

Isle of Skye

When you arrive in Uig you need to take the A87 heading south, then turn off on the A850 at Borve and we recommend you visit Dunvegan Castle. If you are using a campsite tonight, we have been to and are happy to recommend the Kinloch campsite at Dunvegan which is right by the sea. Only a short walk from the campsite is the Old Schoolhouse restaurant, here you can enjoy a huge plate of langoustines and a very nice cooked steak if seafood is not for you.

21.  Dunvegan Castle

A must visit when in the Isle Of Skye is Dunvegan Castle and Gardens with a wealth of history and has been the ancestral home of clan MacLeod for over 800 years, Dunvegan is the oldest continually unhabituated castle in Scotland, which has been built the most stunning Lochside setting, the Castle has recently become a popular venue for weddings.

Kinloch Campsite is on the shore of Loch Dunvegan and is a family run site with all the amenities on-site you will need, a short walk will take you into the village where you will find local shops and cafes.

Wildcamping

Wildcamping is available in Skye and can be found in your sat nav, our favourite wild camp spot is at Duntulm.  However you might want to rethink your route because Duntulms is north of Uig, so when you come off the ferry you might want to head north and visit the Skye Museum of life which gives a history of how the Islanders lived and earned a living in bygone years.

If you go past the Museum for around two miles on the left next is a fantastic wild camp spot at Duntulm next to the Sea overlooking the Western Islands of The Outer Hebrides.  We think an overnight stop here with a nice glass of wine and the Barbie on is fantastic, you can sit back and enjoy the most spectacular sunset overlooking the sea across to the Islands.

Day 9 of Motorhome Hire Holiday 

On the way to Armadale to catch the ferry back to the mainland, we suggest you continue south on the west coast of Isle of Skye on the A863, there is 2 fantastic stop before you catch the ferry.

22.  Fairy Pools

At the foot of the Black Cuillins near Glenbrittle are the Fairy Pools, beautifully crystal-clear blue pools on the River Brittle. These famous pools entice visitors from all over the world, and they make some great ‘Wild Swimming’ for those brave enough to enter the cold water. For the less adventurous these magical Fairy Pools make some fantastic photos.

23.  Talisker distillery

Whilst on the Isle of Skye, visit the Talisker distillery is a must, however, young children are not permitted on the tour due to health and safety.  The only distillery on the Isle of Skye, set on the shores of Loch Harport with dramatic views of the Cuillins. This alluring, sweet, full-bodied single malt whisky is so easy to enjoy, and like Skye itself, so hard to leave.

24.  The Oyster Shed Farm Shop

At the village of Carbost near the Talisker distillery, don’t miss a visit to The Oyster Shed Farm Shop which supplies Pacific oysters grown in the crystal-clear waters of Loch Harport. If oysters are not your thing try mussels, smoked salmon, scallops, crab and a variety of cheese and chutney, which ae all beautifully arranged.

Head to Armadale A851 and take the Ferry to Mallaig on the mainland. During the summer the Ferries run every hour or so and normally there is no need to book if the first one is full then simply wait for the next one

25.  Western Isle Cruises

While in Mallaig we would recommend you consider visiting western Isle cruises, who offer 1-hour wildlife cruise – where if you are lucky you can see whale, dolphin and variety of sea birds.

From Mallaig head for Fort William A830.

If you are looking for a campsite then don’t miss the beachside campsites at Arisaig. Sunnyside Croft this is one of our favourites. The owners Ian & Julie have brought camping into the 21st century everything is immaculately clean and modern with underfloor heating in the toilets. Each pitch has an elevated position with views over the bay. The site is situated 200 yards from the bay where Minke whales and dolphins are frequently seen.

On the way to Fort William heading along the A830, stop at Glenfinnan.

Glenfinnan Viaduct

The famous Glenfinnan viaduct has been made famous from its feature in the Harry Potter films and books. The Jacobite steam train runs across the Bridge travelling between Fort William and the seaside town of Mallaig on the west coast during the summer months, the railway bridge spans 1,000 ft and 100 ft above the ground level.  Please bear in mind if you wish to travel on the Jacobite Steam Train it needs to be booked many months in advance to avoid disappointment.

The Jacobite Steam train

The Jacobite steam train is known as one of the world’s best train journeys, the 84-mile round trip enjoys a fantastic list of impressive views.

The journey starts near Fort William close to Britain’s highest mountain Ben Nevis, the journey is through the most westerly Railway station in the UK – Arisaig.  The train passes Britain’s deepest freshwater loch - Loch Morar.  Round by Britain’s deepest seawater loch - Loch Nevis and not forgetting the amazing crossing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct.

This was made famous by J.K, Rowling in the harry potter films, the viaduct is also known as “The Harry Potter Bridge”.

Glenfinnan Monument

At the head of Loch Sheil stands the monument to the final Jacobite rising, the lone highlander in his kilts sits on top the 18-metre-high stone column, with stunning views of the sweeping glen below where highland life was so cruelly extinguished.  The visitor centre gives full details of the Jacobite rise and fall. Be prepared to be emotionally stirred by this tumultuous chapter in Scotland’s history.

Neptune’s Staircase

Neptune's Staircase is on the Caledonian canal near Fort William, comprising of 8 locks. It was built between 1803 and 1822 by Tomas Telford, it is the longest lock staircase in the UK, the original system was hand-powered and has been converted to an electric hydraulic system in recent years. It lifts boats 64 feet through the eight locks which are 180 feet by 40 feet and takes about 90 minutes to pass through the system.

Fort William makes an ideal stop overnight, known as the Scottish outdoor capital of Scotland there will be something here for everyone whether you enjoy walking, fishing or more adrenaline-fuelled hobbies.

Glen Nevis campsite situated at the bottom of Ben Nevis, this a lovely campsite with everything you need on-site from restaurants, shop kids play area and laundry facilities.

Wild Camping

From Fort, William take the Glen Nevis road (Near Fort |William) and follow the road past the waterfall right to the top (Not suitable for Lewis or Bara models due to height restriction), here you can park overnight at the bottom of Ben Nevis in complete peace and tranquillity in the heart of the highest Mountains in the UK.

Wildcamp at the Glencoe Ski Centre - from Fort William follow the coast road A82 down towards Oban on the way bare left into Glencoe A82 turn round at Kings house and head back towards Oban A828 this is a stunning drive with Through Scotland's highest mountain range overnight parking is available at Glencoe Ski Centre £12.00 per night.

Day 11 of Motorhome Holiday 

From your Fort William head towards Oban on the A82, then take the A828 and follow the road down by Loch Linnhe.

26.  Cruachan power station

Cruachan Power Station is an amazing feat of engineering with the inside of the mountain hollowed out to house the power station, this is so the local scenery was not spoiled.  The tour will take you the 1 km inside the mountain, the guided tour takes you on a short journey deep inside the mountain Ben Cruachan.

The power station lies at the heart of the mountain one kilometre inside. Once inside the mountain on the walkway you will notice sub-tropical plants which are well suited to the humid conditions inside the mountain, in the massive generating hall there is a viewing gallery, showing the four generators producing the electricity from the water which is stored in the loch above the mountain.

When in Oban there are many burger style vans along the promenade but they are selling fresh-caught seafood which is cooked in front of you, Scallops, Crab, mussels etc, If you want to spoil yourselves then head to the Temple Restaurant, on the seafront with magnificent views and food to match, freshly caught and all the sauces are homemade.

Known locally as The Green Shack, the Oban Seafood Hut is a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike and has a delicious array of lobster, scallops, crab and other seafood delicacies, it’s situated at the south side of Oban near the railway pier, you can buy your favourites to eat on the spot or to take home with you to enjoy later.

From Oban head down the A816 towards Lochgilphead then take the A83 along the Banks of Loch Fyne towards Inveraray.

Loch Fyne Oyster Bar

Near the top of Loch Fyne is the Famous Loch Fyne Oyster bar, the oysters are harvested in Loch Fyne itself and served up in some the finest Michelin star restaurants.   Providing you dine in the Restaurant they will allow you to park overnight in the overspill car park next to the loch, making this an ideal spot to wild camp overnight.

Day 11 of Motorhome Hire Holiday 

From here take the A82 through the Arrochar Alps and down the Famous Rest and be Thankful road towards Crianlarich. Then the A85 towards Lochearnhead wild camping is available at various spots along the loch, then take the A84 towards Stirling.

Inverary is on the water’s edge of Loch Fyne and is a small quaint town with lots of history. Inverary Castle is the ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll, Chief of the Clan Campbell and the iconic, must-see visitor attraction on the West Coast of Scotland.

27.  Inverary Castle

Inverary Castle is the ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll, Chief of the Clan Campbell and the iconic and beautifully romantic castle was built sometime in the 17th century, built on the shore of loch Fyne, and the beautiful highland scenery behind this is good stop where you can explore the castle and gardens before stopping for a quick cup of tea in the café and browsing the gift shop a must-see visitor attraction on the West Coast of Scotland.

From Inverary you have 2 options - if you have time to visit Stirling then head along the A85 then join the A84 for Lochearnhead heading towards Callander.

If you need to get back to Perth continue on the A85 towards Crieff there is campsites available in Crieff, Perth and at Scone all of which are within half an hour driving of Peth, this will allow you to empty the chemical waste, bins and top up freshwater before you return the motorhome – don’t forget to allow time to top up the gas if you have not done so already.

On the way to Stirling, stop off at Blair Drummond Safari Park.

28.  Blair Drummond Safari Park

  Blair Drummond Safari park is a great stop to allow the kids to run about and play there is lots to see and do.  Drive the motorhome through the various enclosures and get close to, Lions, Monkeys, Tigers, Elephants, Giraffes, Bears etc, it is also a Kids adventure park with water slides and Sealion/ seal shows, a great day out for kids and adults alike.

29.  Stirling Castle   One of Scotland’s most famous castles, this was home to Mary Queen of Scots Stirling, Castle sits high on top of the hill and dominating the Stirling skyline a worthwhile visit, they offer tour guides and have a gift shop and café for any souvenirs.

For your last night, I would recommend The Witches Craig campsite, it is close to the Wallace monument and is an ideal last night stop to clean the motorhome and empty the toilet before the 45-minute journey back to Perth.

I hope you find this route planner helpful in planning your holiday to the Outer Hebrides, the western isles of Scotland in our opinion has some of the most breathtakingly beautiful scenery making it a pleasure to drive.  Although we have broken it into suggested nights the whole point of a motorhome holiday is not to be tied down to certain locations and hope when you’re out driving you can experience the freedom of the motorhome and use this as a guide.

While we prefer not to stay in campsites , we would like to remind all our customers about the importance of responsible wild camping.   ·         Only take pictures and only leave footprints. ·         If there is any litter, please pick it up even if it’s not yours. ·         Use common sense, never park in front of someone’s house blocking their view. ·         Don’t park in farmers gates or field entrances. ·         Please use the local village shops rather than the big supermarkets, the product is normally sourced locally and is of much higher quality and tastes delicious.   Warning this route and wording is copyright by Scottish Tourer and only available for use by customers of Scottish Tourer, Any other Campervan Hire Company using any material copied from this route will result in copyright infringement and  we will prosecute. 

Motorhome Hire Scotland - Itinerary Guide Scotland is a very beautiful country, rich in culture and history...

We are the only company who have all brand new very high specification motorhomes, however and more important than that is the service and advice of where to go and also where not t o go from experienced expert local motor homers.

This is a route designed by us for your motorhome holiday.  

Trying to strike a balnce of keeping the kids amused and still enjoying a holiday thats both active and intresting is not always easy, our west coast route is based on our own experiance's with some suggested stops that my children have enjoyed along the way.

Your Journey Begins Here

Have you always wanted to get away from the rat race and to avoid the more traditional trappings of a british holiday why not take advantage of our outer hebrides campervan hire..

When you choose Island Campers for campervan hire, Stornoway and other Outer Hebrides villages and towns are easy to explore. We provide you with good quality, well-equipped German-built campervan.

Scotland is a richly diverse country to explore. With many campsites, Outer Hebrides islands like Lewis and Harris offer breath-taking views, warm and friendly people to meet and hundreds of years of history and culture to explore.

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Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

If you want to experience the wilds of Scotland, a road trip through the Outer Hebrides is a great introduction. Here’s my itinerary to help you plan your Western Isles adventure.

Go on a road trip to the Outer Hebrides and you’ll avoid the crowds of the almighty North Coast 500, and get to see some of the most open and free parts of Scotland. 

I went to the Outer Hebrides with my friend and fellow travel blogger, Helen in Wonderlust. Sounds incredibly stupid now, but I hadn’t quite realised I’d planned a road trip to the Outer Hebrides, as I was going off Instagram pictures I’d seen. Genuinely thought I was going on a road trip to the Western Isles –  who knew it was the same thing, hey? 

Anyway, confession over, let me guide you through our Outer Hebrides road trip, so you can do the same (one day!). 

Click to see the Outer Hebrides Road Trip Route Map

This was our basic route for the Outer Hebrides road trip. I planned it two weeks before – the day before I went to Norfolk for four days – so, it was a skeleton of an idea, which we planned to flesh out while we were there. 

I’d originally planned more destinations, including Ullapool, but when it came to booking the ferries I realised it was just too much.

Just a warning, booking the ferries for our Outer Hebrides road trip was more complicated than I thought. Knowing the names of the ferry ports, planning the timings and connections, and then, knowing if they had space was harder than I planned. This probably took me about three hours, but with this guide you’ll be able to do it in way less.

More tips on actually booking the Outer Hebrides road trip below. 

So, let’s get onto the Western Isles road trip itinerary, shall we?

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Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond

After driving up from Portsmouth, where I live and about 275 miles away, the day before, we actually set off from Preston. Managed to swing by Tebay Services to drop £50 on snacks, as if we could afford it.

And, after a great drive through the Lake District , we were in Scotland . Kinda daunting how Google Maps told me it was just straight for 174 miles on the motorway, but at least it kept the instructions easy to follow.

Loch Lomond things to do 

I needed a break, and so we pulled up to  Loch Lomond Shores , at the south of Loch Lomond. It’s a small shopping centre with a Sea Life Centre and a park, and a watersports hire place. We had a look round, went to the toilet, and left – weren’t really feeling the vibe. 

Instead we drove north, to the village of Luss. It’s known as one of the cutest villages around Loch Lomond, and so we went for lunch at The Village Rest . A popular spot where I enjoyed an amazing jacket potato and veggie curry – delicious. I’d 100% recommend. 

We went for a wander around Luss. Ended up buying a Scottish face mask (it was September 2020), seeing a stunning rainbow over the pier, and admiring the cute houses, the village is known for. There was also a great gift shop, and a lovely little coffee shop too. Definitely worth a stop off. 

We’d toyed with the idea of visiting Loch Katrine around the lock , and going on a Loch Katrine cruise , but the weather was threatening to change and we decided we were too tired. It was in the wrong direction. If you can fit it in though, and it’s not 2020, then take a look. Pack your women’s parka coat to keep you warm if you want to do this – there are some great ones at Trespass !

We stopped at Ardui instead. Took the time for a local beer and a quick go with the drone, and carried on. The scenery was great. 

It would’ve been great to explore the Loch more, but with the weather and driving distances, we decided to crack on and get settled for the night. If you did want to do some more  driving round Loch Lomond, there are some great scenic drives listed there. 

Loch Lomond accommodation

I managed to freak myself out by obsessively reading weather reports, and so ended up booking a ‘mountain hut’ at the Pine Trees Holiday Park at the last minute. Loved it. Seriously. Wasn’t even annoyed that the weather was fine and we would’ve been ok to camp, like I’d planned.

For £20 each a night we got this cool hut, with an intense heater and just a few steps away from a shared bathroom, with great showers. The owner was great here and it backed onto the Wild Hebridean Way, which I totally plan to do one day.

I had a little walk on it here…

I had actually paid for the camping round Loch Lomond already, as you can’t wild camp in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, like you can in the rest of Scotland. We paid £3. The weather scared me though, and staying at Pine Trees meant we didn’t have to drive too far the next day to Oban either. 

Here’s a MAP of the spots around Loch Lomond so you can decide if you want to do it or not.

Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

I was so happy that I only had an hour’s drive to Oban from our accommodation, rather than the two on the original plan.

We stopped off for breakfast at The Real Food Cafe , just a minute’s drive from Pine Trees. Super clean, tasty breakfast baps, and a dedication to supporting toilets in Malawi, means this is a no brainer. Go!

We were warm, fed, and ready to get to the Outer Hebrides. 

When you’re driving round the lochs in this area you’ll see lots of places to park up on the road, and passing places too – take advantage! We stopped off at Glen Lothy to find the reflection of Ben Cruachan on the water was particularly special that day. 

Arriving in Oban

We wanted to have time to look round Oban, so we didn’t stop too long. As soon as I arrived in Oban I wished we had longer , but then after three hours, I think that was about right. Unless you’re going in season and not in 2020 – then you could join a boat tour, or visit the distillery. 

On our visit in September 2020 we looked round the souvenir shops, admired the restaurants and mooched about the Scottish produce shops. We walked to the North Pier, and then the other pier, and went and took the car to the ferry in good time. 

My hot tip for Oban would be the fish market at the ferry terminal. NOT the one with the tartan on but right next to the terminal building. You’ll find it as there’s a huge queue outside. Great price seafood, and super popular. This would be a good place to pick up some Scotland souvenirs to remember your trip by.

The ferry from Oban to Castlebay (which is Barra’s main port) leaves at 13:40 and gets in at 18:25. Don’t be late as it cost almost £100 for a car and two passengers!

Check in closes 45 minutes before it’s scheduled leaving time. 

Oh, and it’s not the North Ferry Terminal. It’s much bigger than that and over the other side. If there aren’t road signs, you’re in the wrong place. Also, you can go about an hour early and park up there to avoid paying around the city.

Oban to Barra by ferry

The ferry from Oban to Barra takes 5 hours. My mum had warned me before that it was sickening and rocky, and I shrugged it off. Heading into hour three, and it turned out she was right, as usual .

I was so seasick I couldn’t move.

I’d gone to get a drink downstairs, and Helen was upstairs and I seriously couldn’t muster my legs to go back and tell her where I was. It was rough. 

As soon as we arrived I was fine.

Thankfully.

But just to warn you.

Castlebay, Barra

We arrived onto Barra, to wind and rain, and so went to put up our tent at the Wavecrest Campsite. The guy there gave us the bright idea of camping on the hill, to be more private. We didn’t realise then quite what a mistake of an idea that was. 

Tent up by the beach, all proud of ourselves, off we trotted into Castlebay for some food.

We went to Cafe Kisimul, an Indian/ Italian restaurant that comes very highly rated online. I went for a chicken jalfrezi – which was even more delicious considering it was about 8pm, and the rollercoaster of a day we had. We ended up staying till closing, getting as much electricity into our phones, and hot food in our bellies as possible. 

Accommodation in Barra

As I’ve said, it was September 2020, COVID times (although this was a break where we were allowed to travel!). All Outer Hebrides hotels I could find online were a two-night minimum, and they said different households weren’t allowed to mix, which is why we ended up camping.

There is a hostel you could try in normal times, called Dunard Hostel, which was in a great location. 

Wavecrest Campsite was really basic. Three toilets and two showers in an industrial tanker thing, and that was about it. No Wi-Fi. It was by the beach though, and not far from the town, and the two members of staff were lovely. 

We barely got a wink of sleep that night though, thanks to the howling gales, our flapping tent, and the worry we were about to be blown into the sea. 

All good fun though, right?!

READ MORE: Fun Games for Road Trips to Keep You Busy

Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra

Vatersay is a little island off Barra, with a population of just 90 people . It makes for a lovely slow drive to explore the island and see the amazing Outer Hebrides beaches surrounding .

Make Traigh a Bhaigh Beach your first port of call. It’s stunning.

The weather really made it for us, and the fact it was one of the few places in the whole Outer Hebrides road trip that I managed to get my drone up – so enjoy these pictures. 

There’s a cafe here that does operate, although not when we were there. Too early. You can park near here though and there are toilets when it’s open.

We just chilled on the beach, had a brew and admired the view. Would’ve loved a swim but also didn’t want to as we were camping. Spend as long as you can here!

We tried to drive round the island but you can’t actually go much further than this. Instead of driving on, you should walk over the dunes to Traigh Shiar Beach on the west coast. Gutted I missed it!

From here head off the island, and make sure you pull into Uidh Beach for pics. Again, more stunning coastline and views.

Back on Barra 

Any other time, you can enjoy Barra Surf Adventures Barra surf adventures – sea kayaking . There wasn’t any availability thanks to it being 2020, but just wanted to add it in here for future travels.

For brunch we headed to the Hebridean Toffee Cafe, where unfortunately they didn’t have any toffee ready for us to sample. Instead, we had two bacon sandwiches each. Needed it. 

If you do want toffee you can pop into the Buth Barraigh Community Shop. Here you’ll find all kinds of local treats and goodies. 

The big thing to do in Barra is to watch the plane come in on the only beach runway in the WORLD. We magically timed it just right and made it for the 12:15 arrival – felt like everyone in Barra was there waiting!

It was pretty impressive coming in. I’m sure the passengers felt like superstars with all of us waiting. 

Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

Then we headed to the ferry terminal – a different one to the one we arrived in on, at the north of the island. 

Both pretty shattered we ended up having a nap at the terminal, in the car. Was so nice with the sun streaming in.

There was a cafe there, with cakes and coffees, so a scone for an afternoon snack it was. 

Barra to Eriskay – departs 15:40 / arrives 16:20 £17 for a car and two passengers

We took the ferry over, and sat in the car missing all the supposedly beautiful views. Blummin COVID meant we weren’t allowed to get out and walk around.

Arriving into Eriskay, we drove up to South Uist, admiring the views as we went. We were desperate for some decent food, and after quite a bit of driving with no map or phone signal, managed to find Charlie’s Bistro. 

Lasagne, with chips and garlic bread. TRIPLE carbs. Yes.

The owner, Iain, was lovely. He bought the cafe when it was an old sweet shop, called ‘Charlie’s’. He had fond memories of a childhood popping in there for sweets and so wanted to keep the name, but make it a lovely restaurant. 

He was really helpful in our quest to go wild camping in Scotland and directed us to a few beaches to try where no one would mind. 

Accommodation on Benbecula, South Uist

We ended up at Cula Bay. It was even windier than the night before and we couldn’t actually even get the big tent up. Thankfully I’d taken a one man one and so I slept in that on the beach, while Helen slept in the car. It was a rough night. 

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot about wild camping and though I’d totally do it again, that night was hard. 

The beach was amazing though!

Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris

Up early, it wasn’t good enough weather to properly enjoy the beach, so we packed up as soon as we woke up, and drove up South Uist and North Uist, with a leisurely drive to the terminal. 

I was determined to use the camping stove and toastie maker I’d bought and so after managing to find an open shop at the terminal, we bought some bread and cheese. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the flame so much it didn’t cook, and so we had dry cold cheese sarnies for breakfast.

There’s nowhere to eat before 12 on South Uist. At least, we couldn’t find anywhere. 

Beneray to Leverburgh to Harris Island –  Departs 11:10 / Arrives 12:10

There’s loads of cool stuff to do on Lewis and Harris, but after two nights of camping, gawd we were tired. 

We decided to head north to our Airbnb and just see what we saw on the way. 

We accidentally happened upon the food truck, Taste n Sea, which actually ended up being my favourite food experience of the whole Outer Hebrides road trip. We didn’t know at the time, but they’re actually pretty highly regarded around the Hebrides. 

I went for cod pieces, Cullen Skink soup, and a tea. All tasted soooo good, and even better with this impressive view to look out on as we ate. 

That gave us a good feed for the day, as we hadn’t realised the portions were quite so big. 

We pootled on to our Airbnb in Cromore, admiring the stunning scenery as we did. If the weather had been better I would’ve gone in for a wild swim.

Accommodation in Harris 

We got to our Airbnb in Cromore, showered and just fell asleep. SO nice to relax in a comfortable Scottish home.

We had a room in a lovely couple’s home, but they had to go to the hospital in Glasgow for a check up so, along with another couple who’d got a room on Airbnb, we had the place to ourselves. Hot shower, lovely kitchen, and a massive DVD collection with a big lounge meant we were very happy to be there.

We paid around £21 each per night.

Day 5: Road trip round Lewis

Up and ready, finally refreshed. We wanted to see as much of Lewis as possible. Big day ahead.

The top things to do in Lewis include hiking, exploring the beaches, enjoying the Circular Scenic Route (which included the impressive Reef Beach), going to see the Callanish Stones , learning about the chess pieces of Lewis, and enjoying the Old Village (wasn’t open). 

We had a great day driving round, BUT, the one thing that was missing, was food . Couldn’t find an open restaurant anywhere (this was Sept 2020). We managed a cup a soup at the Lewis Community Shop (great place), and that was it all day. 

So by 5pm we headed to Stornoway – the main town of the Western Isles and the capital of Lewis and Harris in Scotland. Had to be some food there! 

We went for a pint and a packet of crisps at McNeills pub, and waited for the Harbour Kitchen to open. And when it did, wow. Managed an amazing meal. I ordered mussels and they gave me 71.

I counted them. Staff were lovely, and the bread they gave alongside was an absolute taste sensation. 

Accommodation in Lewis

We stayed at the Airbnb again, on Harris, and watched Braveheart. Lovely evening!

It was a bit of a drive but there weren’t any other option tbh.

89 Road Trip Quotes to Inspire Your Next Adventure

Day 6: Road trip round Harris

Today it was Harris’ turn. What could we find on our big day in Harris on our Outer Hebrides road trip? 

After leaving our Airbnb we headed into Tarbert, where we’d be getting our early ferry from tomorrow, and the most populated area on Harris.

First stop, breakfast. 

After getting some petrol (they do it for you, it’s great) we saw a sign for breakfast at the Harris Hotel . 

Best bacon and egg sandwich ever. It was so hot inside, how did they do it? That set us up, and made us book into the hotel for that night too. As we still hadn’t planned any accommodation for our final night of the Outer Hebrides road trip. 

Day in Harris

We spent our day in Harris exploring Seilebost Beach, Luskentyre Beach, walking out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, shopping in Tarbert, wishing we could go in the Harris Distillery, and generally having a lovely time. 

We had dinner in the hotel – cod and chips, with a herring starter – and drinks in the bar after. It was a great last night on the Outer Hebrides!

TOP TIP: Watch out for which Tarbert you book your hotel in. There’s another one in Argyll, where the Loch Lomond Park is and you don’t want to get muddled.

The Harris Hotel was very ‘Scottish’ looking, and traditional. I thought it was great – we were both impressed with our room. It was definitely bigger than the average, we had a sofa and TV, and of course a private bathroom too. 

It was about a two-minute drive from the port, and walkable to the famous Harris Distillery. There was plenty of parking out front, and the staff were lovely too. 

In fact, everyone we met in the Outer Hebrides was definitely nicer than the average!

You could also try the Hotel Harris, which was a bit more modern and even closer to the ferry terminal. Click here for more photos, prices and availability for the Hotel Hebrides .

Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye

We were up and out, and managed to get the price of breakfast off our hotel as we didn’t have time to eat it. Pretty happy about that. So useful being about two minutes from the terminal too, glad we invested in the Harris Hotel!

Tarbert to Uig Departs 07:30 / Arrives 09:10

Ferry was pretty chill. Had a gross ‘sausage patty’ sandwich though – if they ask if you want ‘links’, say yes.

Unfortunately for us, the weather was terrible in Skye. My mum had been warning me all week about the weather warnings on breakfast TV. Well, it hit in Skye.

We’d been so excited to explore but the rain really stopped play. Driving was awful, and we couldn’t see the stunning views we knew were beyond the fog.

We drove round Quiraing, and managed a few pics and vista points before the heavens opened.

We sat and had cake in Portree, hoping it’d change. I have been to Skye before, on January 1st and weather was actually way better than in September, just to note. 

We gave up and didn’t even look round Portree in the end. Such a shame as we’d so been looking forward to exploring Skye.

Still determined, we drove up to the Fairy Pools, which look amazing online, but found they weren’t even open thanks to the torrential rainfall.

Driving through Glencoe

We drove south, through Glencoe, stopping at a Tibetan market we happened to see along the way. 

Glencoe is one of the most stunning places in the Highlands, but unfortunately we could barely see past our hands. So, we just decided to head back.

I had a LONG drive to do and wanted to get some of it over with.

We passed Ben Nevis somewhere in the fog, and stopped at Eilean Castle, which was featured in James Bond.

I just carried on driving past Loch Lomond and Pine Trees, through the rain, to Glasgow. 

We arrived into Glasgow at around 6pm, to lovely sun. Forgot what that felt like.

Everything looked great and I’d love to go back to see Glasgow, but for that night, I just wanted dinner and a drink. We went to MacSorley’s next door, and had mac and cheese with pulled pork, and a few gin and tonics.

Accommodation in Glasgow

We stayed at the Jury’s Inn Glasgow, which was in an incredible location, and only £40 for the night. The duvet and pillows there were just AMAZING. Click here to book a bargain at the Jury’s Inn in Glasgow.

Final day map

6 hours 31 minutes drive – probably took me longer

——

Day 8: Glasgow, and home

If you have the time, enjoy looking round Glasgow. It was wonderful weather for it, but I needed to get to my parents in the Midlands. We left, stopping at Tebay Services on the way back for breakfast, and then, home.

A great week road tripping in the Outer Hebrides!

Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

– I’d definitely recommend dividing up that last day. It was just too much driving and I couldn’t relax and enjoy the morning.

– Pack some healthy food in the car as it could be hard to find when we wanted it. Barely ate a vegetable all week. 

– The roads are unbelievably well kept, especially compared to down where I live in Hampshire!

– If you want to wild camp, read my guide . 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places – and be courteous. 

– Let other drivers pass, as they might be on their way to work while you’re chugging along admiring the view. 

– Keep your petrol topped up. 

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

Outer hebrides ferries.

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Oban to Castlebay = £100
• Eriskay to Barra = £17.15
• Ferry = £21.30
• Tarbert to Uig = £44.65

= £183.10 / 2 = £91.55 each

Outer Hebrides Accommodation

This is what we spent on accommodation for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Wavecrest Camping x 1 = £10 
• Airbnb house x 2 = £50
• Harris Hotel x 1 = £60
• Jury’s Inn, Glasgow x 1 = £22

= £142 each

Outer Hebrides food

This is what we spent on food for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• We didn’t eat particularly well on this trip, and did actually eat chocolate bars for lunch on two days. Sad times. Had some lovely fish and chips at the Harris Hotel, enjoyed my mussels, and the lasagne and chips were just what I needed.

I’d estimate I spent about £150 on food for the week.

= £150 each

Outer Hebrides petrol

This is what we spent on petrol for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

Petrol was one of the biggest expenses on the trip, and from Preston to Preston again, it cost about £130 between us. 

Total cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip =   £449

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Advice for wild camping & driving in the Outer Hebrides

Wild camping in Scotland is perfectly legal, but there are rules to keep it fun and open to all. If you’re feeling inspired by my wild camping adventure and want to give it a go in the Outer Hebrides, make sure to follow the Scotland wild camping rules.

• You won’t stay longer than three nights in one place. 
• You’ll leave the spot how you find it (or better!).
• No fires. 
• Respect animals, nature and other people. 

Top tips for wild camping 

You need to be prepared for wild camping in the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you through a few lessons learned the hard way, so you don’t make the same mistakes!

– When you choose a spot to camp, look for some sort of shelter. At least from one direction. But, don’t camp between two high points as the wind will funnel through to you. That fresh coastal air can become a howling gale very quickly!

– Getting the tent up is one thing, but getting the pegs to stay in the ground is another. So much of Scotland is either boggy, or dry – so you may have trouble with the tent pegs. I’d recommend getting some storm pegs for extra resilience.  

– Don’t camp next to a stream, or any body of water, as little brooks can easily turn into torrents. You do NOT want to wake up to a river in your tent. 

– Don’t move rocks or dig ditches to make your camping spot better. That’s not how wild camping in Scotland works. And don’t camp near people’s homes, or within view from their house – they won’t like it. 

– My tent was too high, too hard to put up, and there was too much fabric to cope with in the wind. When it comes to choosing a tent, go small, basic and as minimal as possible.

– No matter what the time of years, expect the nights to be cold and pack extra warmth for your tent and sleeping bag.

– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you have the time to pick an exact spot before nightfall. 

Top tips for driving

– Don’t worry about the islands’ road conditions. The roads were amazingly well kept and other motorists were very courteous – we didn’t have a problem. 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places and pull over if the passing place is on your side of the road. 

– Keep your petrol topped up as it could be some time between stops. 

– Download your maps to your phone before you start as you might not have phone reception for your trip. Any cafe or restaurant we asked was happy to give out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase so we were ok. 

– Spend some money locally rather than taking your own food or using supermarkets. Try the fish market for lunch in Oban, pick up some treats from the community shop in Harris, try the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to taste the local cuisine. It’s tempting to be 100% prepared, but it’s fun to sample local produce and really helps the local communities too. 

Packing list for your trip

A lightweight tent that’s super easy to pitch, and light. 

Take a good quality all season sleeping bag , and an insulated mat too. Maybe some sort of pillow ? Up to you whether you can be bothered to carry it or not. 

You need a way to get water. I was fine with two bottles kept filled and kept in the car but you can get water treatment tablets from Boots easily enough. 

Camping stove, with a gas cartridge . 

Take a phone power bank , and the midge repellant.

You might want to bring a First Aid Kit, a repair kit for the tent , and some hand sanitising gel too. Make sure your toiletries are all biodegradable. 

Some sort of picnic mat to sit out at night. If you’re in little hiking tents there’s no space to sit up. 

Road trip in the Outer Hebrides

If you want to go road tripping round the Outer Hebrides I wholeheartedly recommend it. I feel like we had a real adventure, at a time when adventures were hard to find. We barely saw a soul out and about, and it was the perfect trip to get away from it all.

If you have any questions about going on a road trip in the Outer Hebrides – let me know in the comments below.

PIN THIS OUTER HEBRIDES ROAD TRIP FOR LATER

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Hi, I'm Vicky! I wrote this. You can find me on all the social media @VickyFlipFlop. I love a bit of adventure, will try anything once, and have a strong passion for the local food and drink, whatever it may be. I'm here to help inspire you to travel to places a little out of your comfort zone, or at least to explore the usual destinations in a different way. Stay, have a look around, and if you have any questions – let me know below.

Loved reading about your Western Isles adventure, planning ours now.. Regards, Kel and Carole Coles.. South Wales

Hi Vicky, Thanks for the flip flop advice.Looks like we might have to do this trip. But not wild camping,can you recommend doing this in a camper van / motor home . We are both retired and so the time of year is not an issue. Kind regards, John

Can you park a campervan on Cula Bay. I grew up in Benbecula from age 4 until 9 going back 45years now and spent every weekend with our caravan on Cula Bay through the summer. I am taking my 15 yr old daughter this Summer and your road trip has been very useful. We are taking 2 weeks traveling from Petersfield near Portsmouth so any suggestions of places to give more time

Just read your Outer Hebrides Road Trip article and found it fascinating and very useful . We are hoping to do a very similar thing in April/May, except that we shall be taking two weeks instead of your one and we shall return via Stornoway and Ullapool. Oh, and as we are both approaching the age of 80, we shall be staying in hotels and guest houses, not camping! We actually booked it first for 2020 (cancelled because of COVID), then for 2021 (ditto!), so this is our third attempt to do this trip. Like you, we shall take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay (thanks for the warning about rough seas!), then we spend two nights each on Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris (three nights there), Lewis west coast, and Lewis east coast (north of Stornoway). I have had three years to do my research and thought I had everything sussed, but your article gave me ten very useful facts that I had missed (places to eat, for example, and even a beach that I’d managed to miss!). Many, many thanks for your report.

Hello David, that’s so wonderful to hear. It warms my heart that I’ve helped plan your trip! That will be fantastic over two weeks. When I think back it was a little rushed with all the driving, two weeks will be perfect to be able to enjoy it all properly. Hotels are a great idea too!

Sounds like you have a fantastic itinerary and I hope you have a great time. It really is a stunning part of the world, whatever the weather. Hope you enjoy those impressive beaches!

@David Briers, Hi, did you manage to do your trip David.. My wife and I hope to do a similar trip next Spring.. Started planning today.. Would love to know how you get/got on??? Oh by the way, we are spring chickens..65 ish traveling by car and utilising hotels and guest houses hopefully. Kind regards, Kel and Carole Coles. S.Wales

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For Every Booking, We Plant a Tree

7 Night Tour – Outer Hebrides – Oban, Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris, Lewis, Dunkeld

Day 1/Night 1

Head up the west side of Loch Lomond on the  A82  to Tarbert then head west along the A83 over ‘the rest and be thankful’, through Inverary then north on A819 towards Kilchurn Castle at Loch Awe.  Continue on to Oban Camping and Caravanning Club site at Barcaldine by Connel bridge which is just 20 mins from Oban.  Alternatively take the ‘Rest and Be thankful’ road from Tarbet on Loch Lomond over through Loch Fyne and round through Inverary and north to Ardfern.

Things to see and do

• Stop at pretty village of Luss on Loch Lomond
• Loch Fyne Oyster Bar
• Inverary Castle
• George Hotel for bar food in Inverary

Campsite:                         Oban Caravan and camping Park

                                              Campsite: Ardfern Motorhome Park

Day 2/Night 2

Drive north to Oban then get ferry from Oban to Barra. 

• Climb Heval Hill for amazing views
• Eat at Castlebay Bar with traditional music
• Eat at Kisimul Café for amazing fish curries and Cullen skink
• Visit Vatersay Bay for beautiful beaches
• Clearwater Paddling for hire of kayaks
• Park up overlooking Bay and watch the seaplanes land on Barra’s beach runway
• Walk around the coast line at Eilogary Peninsular
• Visit Cille Bharr an ancient medieval chapel
• Visit Barra Atlantic for fresh seafood to cook on the BBQ

Campsite:                            Vatersay Community Campervan parking with showers and toilet facilities

                                                Scurival campsite

Day 3/Night 3

Travel north to Uist by taking the ferry from   Castlebay to Lochboisdale or cross the Sound of Barra from Ardmhor to Eriskay and then drive across The Eriskay Causeway to South Uist

Things to see and do:

• Visit Coilleag a’Phrionnsa beach on Eriskay
• Eat at Polochar Hotel Restaurant – great scallops
• Visit beach at Askernish golf club
• Eat at the Wee Cottage Kitchen for seafood rolls
• Visit Shoreline Stoneware for pottery and photography
• Visit the remains of Flora MacDonald’s house

Campsite:                            Kilbride Campsite,  South Uist

Day 4/Night 4

Drive north using a series of causeways linking south Uist to North Uist via Benbecula

• Visit Traigh lar Beach and Traigh Udal Beach
•   Visit Balranald Nature Reserve
• Visit standing stones at Pobull Fhinn and Scolpaig Tower
• Visit Barpa Langass neolithic cairn
• Taigh Chearsabhargh Café for soups seafood and home baking

Campsite:                            Balranald Campsite, North Uist

                                                   Shell Bay, Benbecula

Day 5/Night 5  

Travel north to Harris by driving north to Berneray and then taking ferry from Berneray to Leverburgh

  Things to see and do:                     

• Harris Tweed shop – Tarbert
• Visit famous Scarista Beach
• Huisinus Beach
• Niseabouist beach with stunning views across the Sound of Taransay
• Visit Isle of Harris Distillery
• Visit Luskentyre beach
• Visit Calanais Standing Stones
• Visit The Mission House Studi0

Campsite:                        Talla na Mara on west coast of Harris

                                             Minch View Campsite on east coast of Harris (Camping and   Caravanning Club)

                                           Huisinish Campervan Site

Day 6/Night 6

Meander north through Tarbert into Lewis and head west through Achmore and Kinlochroag then north to Kneep to the stunning beaches beside Traigh na Beirigh campsite .

• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village
• Dun Carloway Broch and Visitor Centre
• Uig Sands Restaurant

Campsite:                           Traigh na Beirigh Campsite

                                                Ardroil Campsite

                                                  Kneep/Reef Campsite

  Day 7/Night 7

  Take the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool then drive south to Inverness and continue down the A9 to Dunkeld

• Blue Pig Studio – Callaway, Lewis
• Museum nan Eilean – in Lews Castle – home to some of the Lewis Chessmen- Stornoway
• Enjoy lunch at the Ceilidh Place Ullapool
• Eat the well known fish and chips from the chippy at Ullapool or try out the Seafood Shack up the road on Argyll Street
• Stop at House of Bruar for food or clothes/gift shopping
• Enjoy live music in the little pubs in Dunkeld
• Walk by the river at Dunkeld and watch the fishermen
• Walk among the gigantic trees at The Hermitage just off A9 before Dunkeld

Campsite:                            Invermill Farm Caravan Park, Dunkeld

Day 8        

Driving Time                      Return Four Seasons Campers – 1 hour 30mins

Road Trip Routes

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Around Konkovo Metro Station

Bitsevsky forest natural and historical park.

Bitsevsky Forest Natural and Historical Park in the very south of Moscow covers an area of over 18 square kilometres and is second in size only to Losyny Ostrov in the north of the city.  In addition to areas of natural beauty, the park also incorporates many historical sites, including ancient settlements and burial mounds and three estates, as well as being a popular venue for walking, skiing and other sport activities.

Uzkoe Estate

The Uzkoe Estate is located in Bitsevsky Forest in between Konkovo, Tyoply Stan and Yasnovo metro stations on the side of the forest to the west of Sevastopolsky Prospekt.   The historical name of the land where the estate is located is Uzkoe and the first estate was built here in 1641 by statesman Maksim Streshnev.  Over the centuries the estate then passed to another branch of the Streshnevs, then the Golitsyns, Tolstoys and finally the Trubetskys.  It was under the Trubetsky family that the surviving neo-classical estate house was built according to a plan by the architect Sergey Rodionov.  After the Revolution, the estate was nationalised and given over to the Soviet Academy of Sciences for use as a sanatorium and was frequented by academics such as the scientist Lev Landau and the mathematician Andrey Kolmogorov.  Today it remains the property of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

Between approximately 1693 and 1697 baroque-style Our Lady of Kazan Church was built on the estate on the orders of Tikhon Streshnev.  In 1930 the church was closed and subsequently used as an archive for old books. It was only returned to the Orthodox church in 1990 and reopened in 1992 when a new home was found for the books.

Yasenevo Estate

Another estate within Bitsevsky Forest is the Yasenevo Estate which is located close to the Novoyasenevskaya metro station.  The area of Moscow known as Yasenevo has been known to exist since the 13th century and was owned by the Lopukhin family since the 17th century.   In approximately the 1730s an estate house with two wings was built on the orders of the Lopukhins.  Later the estate passed to the Gagarin noble family.  After the Russian Revolution the estate was nationalised and in 1924 the estate house's second floor was destroyed by fire and was only restored in the 1970s.  Today the house remains empty and in need of restoration work.

Just north of the estate house, closer to the metro station, is Ss Peter and Paul's Church.  The church was built between 1751 and 1753 on the orders of Feodor Lopukhin, who was also responsible for the development of the whole Yasenevo Estate.  The church is most famous for the wedding which took place here in 1822 between Lev Tolstoy and Maria Volkonskaya.  The church was closed in the 1930s and only reopened in 1997.

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