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• How To's & Quick Tips

Why Is My Circuit Breaker Tripping? 4 Potential Problems and Solutions

Learn the proper way to figure out reasons for a circuit breaker tripping in a home—as well as when to let an electrician do the sleuthing..

By Glenda Taylor and Bob Vila and Evelyn Auer | Updated Dec 15, 2023 4:16 AM

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Q: Every few hours—sometimes minutes!—my living room and one side of my kitchen lose electrical power. I’ll check the breaker panel and, sure enough, a circuit breaker has tripped…again. Should I call an electrician, or is there a simple DIY fix I can try first?

A: While it’s frustrating when a circuit breaker keeps tripping, they are important safety mechanisms. Designed to shut off the electrical current when something goes wrong, circuit breakers are one of the best ways of protecting a home from an electrical fire. “When a circuit breaker trips, typically it is because we use too much electricity, which causes it to overload and turn off,” says Christopher Haas, expert electrician and owner of Haas & Sons Electric in Millersville, Maryland. For those who need an electrical panels 101 refresher course or aren’t sure how to reset circuit breakers, each breaker has an on/off switch and controls a separate electrical circuit in the home. When a breaker trips, its switch automatically flips “off,” and it must be manually turned back on to restore electricity to the circuit. For those wondering, “Is it dangerous if a circuit breaker keeps tripping?” the answer is that it can be, depending on the source of the problem. An electrician can ultimately deal with the root issue, but a little sleuthing will reveal whether it’s something that’s easily remedied.

In many cases, the cause of a circuit breaking tripping is an overloaded circuit.

A circuit overloads when more electrical current is being drawn through the wires than they can handle, tripping the circuit breaker. If this happens, there may be a few additional signs:

• Buzzing noises coming from outlets
• Devices charging slowly
• Electrical outlets not working
• Flickering lights
• Scorch marks on outlets and light switches

If a circuit breaker keeps tripping in one room, homeowners can test for circuit overload by turning off all the switches in the affected area and unplugging all appliances and devices. After the breaker is flipped back on, the devices can be turned back on one at a time, with homeowners waiting a few minutes in between to see if the circuit remains on. If the breaker trips before all the appliances are turned on, the experiment can be repeated, this time turning them on in a different order. It may be necessary to do this several times to find out how many appliances can be operated at once before the circuit overloads.

“As a short-term solution, you can unplug unnecessary appliances to prevent tripping circuit breakers. You may still get some trips, but you can limit them by unplugging devices that you don’t need to use,” advises Dan Mock, vice president of operations at Mister Sparky , an electrical company with 90 locations in the U.S. The best long-term solution, however, is to pay an electrician for the cost to rewire the house and add additional circuits. The cost to replace an electrical panel is about $1,274 on average.

Other times, the issue may be caused by a short circuit.

A “short” circuit means that two wires that should not be coming into contact are inadvertently touching, triggering a sudden surge of electricity through the wires. A short can occur in an outlet, a switch, or within an appliance if wires are loose or have been chewed through by mice or pets. Some signs of a short circuit include:

• Popping sounds
• Discolored outlets or switches
• Burning smells

Testing to see if an appliance has a short is similar to testing for an overloaded circuit. When an appliance that has a short in its wiring is turned on, it will immediately trip the circuit. Homeowners can also try plugging it into an outlet in a different room. If the breaker for that room trips, there’s a short in the appliance (if it’s unclear what breaker goes to what room, the breaker can be identified with one of the best circuit breaker finders ). Electrical shorts can be a major fire hazard, so it’s a good idea to call a licensed electrician for this circuit breaker repair. It’s wise to stop using the outlet or appliance until a pro takes care of the problem.

Another potential cause of a circuit breaker tripping is a ground fault.

A ground fault occurs when the electricity running through a home’s wiring diverts from the wiring loop and travels to the ground, usually due to faulty wiring or water infiltration in an outlet or switch box. Water is a conductor, which is why walking through puddles is often listed as something not to do in a power outage in case of downed power lines. Once water makes contact with wires, electricity can jump from the wiring loop and follow the water trail. This creates a surge in electricity leading to a tripped circuit breaker. If a person comes in contact with the electricity that is on its way to the ground, this can result in electrocution. Homeowners may notice a few signs of a ground fault, including:

• Tripped GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets;
• A burning smell coming from an outlet; and
• Lights flickering.

Newer electrical breakers have features designed to protect against the danger of ground faults. According to Haas, “Ground fault breakers sense electricity going to earth as opposed to going through the wires of the circuit. You’ll find [these] for bathrooms, kitchens, garages, exteriors, and basements.” GFCI outlets are another safety feature that shut off the electric current within a fraction of a second of sensing a ground fault.

If a ground fault is the problem, the cause of the errant water must be discovered and repaired, and any damaged wiring must also be replaced. It’s also a good idea to install GFCI outlets in rooms where water is commonly used. A GFCI outlet costs $210 on average.

Sometimes a bad or worn-out circuit breaker can be the culprit.

In some cases, the circuit breaker itself may be faulty. Breakers that are old, damaged, or were installed incorrectly may trip frequently for no apparent reason. Alternatively, faulty breakers may not trip when they are supposed to, leaving the home at risk of electrical fire. Some signs of a bad circuit breaker include:

• The circuit breaker getting hot and tripping frequently;
• The circuit breaker won’t reset;
• It has been over 10 years since the breaker was last serviced; and
• The breaker has scorch marks.

An important electrical safety tip to keep in mind is that resetting a breaker over and over again can cause what is called an arc flash, which is a small electrical explosion that can be deadly. If resetting the breaker once does not remedy the issue, it’s a good idea for the homeowner to hire an electrician near them who knows how to replace a circuit breaker safely. Mock warns, “Don’t take any chances with circuit breakers. Instead, call a licensed electrician who knows the safe ways to replace breaker boxes, upgrade circuits, and diagnose potential electrical problems in your home.” Wiring a breaker box is a job to leave to an experienced electrician.

A professional electrician can help determine the specific cause of a frequently tripping circuit breaker.

Most circuit breaker problems—aside from those explained in the sections above—will need to be inspected and addressed by a licensed electrician. According to the Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) , each year “thousands of people in the United States are critically injured and electrocuted as a result of electrical fires, accidents, [or] electrocution in their own homes.” While homeowners may be tempted to save on electrician costs by attempting circuit breaker replacement or repair themselves, electrical work is not suitable for casual DIYers. “Yes, you have to pay, but you can save many hours of head-scratching by hiring an electrician. Electricians will also have all the right tools for diagnosing and repairing the circuit,” Haas adds. “Lastly, they will come with a warranty/guarantee should something arise, and they will typically return at no additional cost.”

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Circuit Breaker Tripping: Troubleshooting Guide

Hubert Miles | Licensed Home Inspector, CMI, CPI

Updated on January 5, 2024

A circuit breaker tripping results from short circuits, overloaded circuits, and ground faults. In each case, an unintended excessive flow of current triggers the trip. You must reset the circuit breaker by flipping it back on to restore power.

Circuit breakers trip because they cannot handle the amount of current running through them. Tripping the circuit breaker interrupts the flow of electricity and protects your devices or appliances from damage.

Get FREE estimates from licensed electricians in your area today. Whether you need to replace an outlet, hang a ceiling fan, a new electrical panel, or repair wiring, We Can Help!

Without electrical circuit breakers , the possibility of electrical fires would be much higher.  

This guide looks at what causes circuit breakers to trip, what you can do, and how to identify a bad breaker.

What Would Cause a Circuit Breaker to Trip

There are three leading causes of circuit breaker trips:

• circuit overload
• electrical faults (i.e., ground faults and arc faults)
• short circuits

Below are factors that can cause circuit breaker trips. 

Circuit Overload

A circuit overload happens when the flow of electric current running through the circuit exceeds the amperage of the devices it serves. 

For example, if your microwave is a 12.5 amp appliance, you can run it on a 15 amp circuit. That means your microwave is safe as long as the amperage running through the circuit is 15 amps .

However, if the circuit receives an excessive electrical load over 15 amps , it will automatically trip to protect your device from damage. If the circuit doesn’t trip, the excess current will fry the circuit in your microwave. 

Also, if you operate too many appliances and devices on one circuit, its internal mechanism heats up, causing the breaker to trip. 

Circuit overload is the most common reason for breakers tripping. 

Ground Faults

A ground fault occurs when the active wire comes into contact with a ground wire made of bare copper. Sometimes, this fault may happen when the hot wire touches the metal box connected to the ground wire.

Excessive current flows once the active wire touches the ground wire, flowing into the earth. If you step on the affected area, ground faults can cause shock and even electrocution. The uncontrolled flow of electricity will cause the circuit breaker to trip.

Arc Faults 

An arc fault happens when exposed faulty wiring touches, causing the electric current to arc at the meeting point. As a result, sparks occur, which can ignite an electric fire.

A corroded or loose connection is the main culprit for arc faults. Circuit overloads, ground faults, or short circuits trip an AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) circuit breaker.

Arc faults result from damaged, loose, or corroded terminals and wires. The arc fault builds up over time as the heat due to the cable damage and terminals build up to the point of ignition.

Short Circuits

A short circuit occurs when an active wire touches a neutral wire, and the electrical current takes an unintended path of least resistance. 

The common cause of short circuits is frayed wires coming into contact when the wires touch. The electrical current flow increases significantly, causing the circuit breaker to trip to stop the electricity from damaging appliances.

It is a short circuit because the current bypasses the proper circuit wiring channels and flows through a shorter, unplanned pathway.

Short circuits occur 

• When insulation melts and wires are exposed
• Within appliances with damaged internal wiring
• Due to damaged and frayed extension or appliance cords

How do You Fix a Breaker that Keeps Tripping?

A dedicated circuit breaker tripping indicates too much current flowing through the wiring or connection to the outlet.

Here is a step-by-step guide to follow when you notice the first trip:

• Begin by turning off all the appliances and unplug electrical devices from the outlet. Also, switch off light fixtures and unplug those that you can. This prevents any appliances from damaged when the breaker is reset and a sudden surge of power comes through.
• Open the circuit panel or box and locate the on and off buttons of the circuit breaker. You may notice an orange or red color on the breaker when it is off. 
• Flip the switch from off to on to reset the circuit breaker. Once the breaker is reset, you can switch and test the appliances to see if the electrical power is flowing.
• Keep safe as you reset the breaker by working from the side of the electrical box instead of the front. That way, you will avoid any sparks (should there be any) when you switch the breaker back on.
• Some people prefer to switch the main electrical switch when working on the circuit breaker for added safety. 

Types of Circuit Breakers

Standard circuit breaker.

Standard circuit breakers monitor the modulation of the electric current coming into your devices and appliances. 

This circuit breaker stops the current from flowing when it detects the excessive flow of electricity. 

Standard circuit breakers come in two forms:

• Single-pole circuit breakers
• Double pole circuit breakers

Single-Pole Circuit Breakers

Single-pole circuit breakers are the most common breakers in homes and buildings. They monitor the electric current’s flow in one wire and trip if that wire experiences a very high influx of electricity.

These breakers deliver only 120 volts and work well for 15 to 30 amp circuits. Single-pole circuit breakers come with one switch in the back. 

Double-Pole Circuit Breakers

The double-pole circuit breakers monitor the current in two wires simultaneously. You will notice two switches on the back of these breakers.

The double-pole circuit breakers will trip even if only one of the wires receives too much current. They can accommodate between 15 to 200 amps while delivering 240 volts. 

Single-pole breakers are a good fit for lighting fixtures and other standard home outlets. On the other hand, double-pole breakers work for larger appliances like dryers and washing machines. 

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

The GFCI circuit breaker interrupts the line due to ground faults. They trip when the current starts to follow an uncharted path into the ground. These ground fault surges occur when a foreign conductor, like water, comes in contact with a receptacle .

At the same time, they offer protection against circuit overloads and short circuits. 

GFCI circuit breakers come built into specialized outlets required for wet areas in the home, including :

• Outdoor areas like the balcony, patio, porches, and decks
• Laundry rooms
• Swimming pools
• Six feet from a sink
• Six feet from the bathroom

These breakers help prevent shock or electrocution should the electrical outlet contact water. 

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) 

The AFCI circuit breaker detects normal and abnormal arc faults, so it will trip when it detects a dangerous arc fault that can cause a fire. 

The AFCI circuit breaker doesn’t work to protect devices and appliances plugged into an outlet. It works to prevent electrical fires due to faulty connections and wiring. The internal sensing mechanism in the circuit breaker senses the conditions of an electric arc, and the circuit trips to avoid an electric fire.

AFCI protection can also be built into an outlet. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires these types of breakers to feature in :

• Common rooms
• Laundry areas

AFCI and GFCI circuit breakers can co-exist and complement each other for the best protection.

Combination All Fault Circuit Interrupter (CAFCI)

The CAFCI breaker senses and reacts to any electrical fault, including ground and arc faults.

CAFCI is a relatively new technology that meets new NEC requirements for circuits requiring arc and ground fault protection.

Do Circuit Breakers Get Weak?

A circuit breaker can wear out and become weak. If a breaker trips frequently, the thermal or magnetic element can lose calibration, causing it to trip at lower amp loads than intended. A breaker constantly under thermal stress caused by overloading the circuit will eventually trip more frequently.

Let’s not forget breakers are not impervious to damage. As the internal mechanical parts wear out, they become very sensitive and may not hold under normal load amperage and temperatures.

Electricians refer to this as a bad breaker .

Will a Bad Breaker Keep Tripping

By definition, bad breaker malfunctions, so it will keep tripping until it is either replaced or rectified .

A licensed electrician performs this simple test to see if a breaker will keep tripping and determine if it can be repaired or replaced in the following steps.

• The electrician will switch off all the fixtures and appliances in the house. Also, unplug everything.
• Find the malfunctioning circuit breaker . The electrician will go to the electrical box and locate the breaker lighting orange or red or the one with the switch off.
• They will ascertain that it is the correct circuit breaker. After that, the electrician puts the breaker off.
• With the switch on, the breaker is back on as well. The electrician will plug the appliances into the outlet with the problem circuit breaker. Now, they will turn the devices and appliances on. 

If the breaker trips, the electrician will investigate the circuit’s current amount. The breaker is bad if the current is according to the appliance’s rating.

How You know if a Circuit Breaker is Bad

Breakers do wear out after a while. It has a problem if the breaker doesn’t stay on after resetting it.

Since the circuit breaker controls the electric flow in the house, it is essential to monitor it and catch signs that it has gone bad early.

Here are key signs that denote a bad circuit breaker :

It Frequently Trips

Frequent tripping could be because of a bad breaker. After tripping and resetting, your circuit breaker should stay on unless it detects high current flow. 

To ensure that the issue is not the electricity but the circuit breaker, call an electrician to examine your electricity’s flow and determine whether it is the cause of the constant tripping.

If it is not, then the circuit breaker is the problem. 

The Breaker Overheats

Electrical systems will heat up when active. Typically a breaker can heat to about 60°C (140°F) before problems arise.

Terminations for standard rated breakers: UL 489 Paragraph 7.1.4.2.2 says the temperature rise on a wiring terminal at a point to which the insulation of a wire is brought up as in actual service shall not exceed 50°C (122°F). Terminations for 100% rated breakers: UL489 Paragraph 7.1.4.3.3 says the temperature rise on the termination shall not exceed 60°C (140°F). Handles, knobs, and other user surfaces: UL489 Paragraph 7.1.4.1.6 says the maximum temperature on handles, knobs, and other surfaces subject to user contact during normal operation shall not exceed 60°C (140°F) on metallic and 85°C (185°F) on nonmetallic surfaces. Source: https://www.clipsal.com/faq/fa173839

Call an electrician immediately if the breaker becomes too hot.

There are Scorch Marks

Scorch marks around receptacles, appliances, and the electrical box should tell you your circuit breaker has gone bad.

The burn marks indicate that wiring insulation has melted off and the circuit wires are now sparking and emanating heat or fire. That means that the circuit breaker did not interrupt the excess current and reached the wires and burned them. 

You may see melted wire sheathing on the wire where it connects to the breaker.

Professional electricians can use a  thermal imaging infrared camera to locate the heat source. The infrared camera allows them to pinpoint the problem area through the walls and other construction material.

A Burning Smell

Sometimes you may smell the insulation burning, but no scorch marks are present to denote which outlet is the problem. 

With the help of the infrared camera, an electrician can help locate electrical issues. 

If you encounter a burning odor, shut off the main power and call for emergency service from an electrician. 

The electrical wires burn because power surges through the circuit, melting the wire insulation.

What is Nuisance Tripping

Nuisance tripping is when a breaker trips without a fault to warrant the interruption to the electric current flow.

Nuisance tripping occurs due to several reasons:

Stringent Protection on Circuits 

Sometimes the circuit is protected by stringent conditions that detect any variance as a fault and cause a trip. 

Such stringent conditions can be tuned to accommodate the home’s or building’s electric needs.

A Highly Sensitive Circuit Breaker

In some cases, the circuit breaker has been set to susceptible settings so that they can detect even the slightest fault, even a minor average variance.

For example, the manufacturer can set an AFCI circuit breaker to sensitive standards to detect another circuit’s arc. This common issue may occur in a daisy chain where the circuit breakers connect in a linear series. There may be a faulty electrical outlet you are unaware of on the circuit. It is common for multiple rooms to share a breaker in older houses.

The Breaker Encounters Power Under Different Conditions

The variation in the current is normal, but the breaker responds to it by tripping because the flow is outside the breaker’s regular operation.

Your circuit breaker is tripping because the voltage it is encountering is not within the standard operation. You will need to adjust the circuit breaker or the voltage to eliminate nuisance tripping.

The Breaker Trips with Nothing Plugged in

A breaker tripping with nothing plugged in occurs when a hot, neutral wire is touching somewhere in the circuit. The common causes include frayed or damaged electrical wires, loose connections, faulty electrical receptacles, light switches , or dimmers.

Electrical wire damage happens when:

• wiring is chewed by animals such as rats, squirrels , raccoons, etc
• wire sheathing and insulation ages and become frayed
• wires rub against sharp edges such as punch-outs with missing grommets or wire clamps

Loose connections often occur when electrical wire nuts come loose or electrical tape wears out causing wires to touch.

Defective wiring can be anywhere along the circuit, so it’s best to contact a licensed electrician to troubleshoot why the breaker is tripping.

Replacing a Bad Circuit Breaker

• Check the electrical panel to see the compatible approved circuit breaker brands. Also, make a note of the brand of the electric panel . This is to help you determine if there are upgrades they could recommend for the hardware.
• Order online or go to the hardware store and purchase the breaker of the same voltage as the one you are replacing.
• Go and open the electrical box and switch off the bad breaker. Loosen the terminals and remove the wires using a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Ensure the pliers have rubber insulated handles to avoid shock or electrocution since you will use the pliers to grab the live wires from the terminal. That is a safety measure.
• Remove the bad breaker. Replace it with the new breaker and slip its clips into place. Remember to switch off the replacement breaker.
• Next, using the pliers, hold the wiring and tighten the screws on the terminal. It is crucial to ensure that the wires and screws in the terminals are in the right place.
• Turn the breaker on and replace the electrical panel cover.

Can a Breaker Fail Without Tipping

If you have a newer electrical panel , it’s not likely for a breaker to fail and not trip. However, in older breaker boxes like Federal Pacific , the breaker failing to trip is common.

The main reason Federal Pacific was investigated by the Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) was widespread structure fires involving breakers failing to trip when an electrical overload was present. They found that the circuit breaker contacts would fuse to the bus bar.

Modern breakers will trip when a failure occurs as an added layer of safety. Most older breakers did not have these safeguards.

With AFCI breakers, if the Internal sensing mechanism fails, the breaker reverts to a standard breaker. The AFCI sensor mechanism will no longer work, but the breaker would still trip from overcurrent protection. Therefore, you should test the AFCI breaker regularly.

Conclusion 

Listen to your circuit breaker . It’s alerting you of a problem when it trips. That communication could be a problem with the breaker itself, the circuit, or the amount of electric current coming into your home.

Hubert Miles is a licensed home inspector (RBI# 2556) with more than two decades of experience in inspection and construction. Since 2008, he has been serving South Carolina through his company, Patriot Home Inspections LLC. As a Certified Master Inspector, Hubert is dedicated to providing his expertise in home inspections, repairs, maintenance, and DIY projects.

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Beginner’s Guide to Your Electrical Panel and Circuit Breakers: What You Need to Know

Whether or not you want to do any upgrades and actually work on your electrical panel, it’s still good to have some basic understanding of what’s going on.  It’s right up there with how to turn off your main water shutoff valve and how to unclog a drain . They’re just good things to know as a responsible and aware homeowner!

In this blog, I’ll walk you through the basics of your electrical panel and circuit breaker.

• We’ll start off from the outside and point out a few of the features. I’ll share how to identify some of the basic specifications for your panel. 
• Then, we’ll take the cover off and look internally at some of the components.
• Finally, we’ll finish off with a few of the different issues I’ve seen during home inspections. That way, you can take a look and proactively get ahead in case you want to buy or sell a house in the future. 

Rather watch than read? Check out this 12-minute video.

DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

First, what’s going on the outside of an electrical panel?

Electrical panel cover + types.

Looking from the outside, you’ll see there’s an overall cover in the access door. You’re probably familiar with this because if you’ve had a circuit breaker trip, you’ve likely opened the door and reset the breaker. 

On the outside of the door or on the cover itself, you’ll also likely see the brand of electrical panel, which would be the same as the brand of the circuit breakers you’re using. 

The 4 main ones that you can get readily available if you ever have to swap out a circuit breaker or do any maintenance include: 

• Square D (this is the most common brand in my area)

The Main Breaker

We’ll start off with the main breaker (for me it’s on the bottom). On the switch itself you’ll see a small label with either 200, 100 or possibly even 60. That is the overall amperage (or the amount of current that can go through the main breaker) before it would trip. 

This is a 200 amp service that matches my electrical meter installed on the house. Mine is on the low side underground utilities are run in my community, so it comes up from the bottom. Most of the time you’ll have lines coming from a transformer on a pole over to a mast on your house and then down. So, your main is probably up top.

Electrical panel labels

Keep in mind, these labels are often way off! When your electrical surface was first installed, hopefully everything was labeled correctly. But depending on how much maintenance and who did the work over time, these can start to really change. Never trust whatever this says!

For example, if you hit the living room circuit and then you go start to swap out that outlet — you would always want to test that outlet (I recommend the Klein Tools Voltage Tester ). That said, the labels should give you the direction of which breaker to hit. But again, it is by no means 100% accurate. To be honest usually there are quite a few errors on these. 

Small circuit breakers vs. thick circuit breakers

You’ll also see smaller circuit breakers which will be labeled on the switch either 15 or 20, which means 15 amp or 20 amp. That is going to mean that that circuit has a maximum delivered amperage of either 15 or 20 for a 120-volt circuit.

Then, you’ll have the thicker breakers that are the thickness of two of the singles. This means it’ll provide power to a 240-volt circuit. Commonly these are for a dryer, stove, or air conditioning unit. And it is going to be the amperage for which is labeled on the switch (often 30, 40, 60 amps depending on the appliance it’s actually feeding power to).

What is going on the inside of the electrical panel? 

SAFETY REMINDER: If you do not feel comfortable going into your electrical panel, call a pro. However, if you feel comfortable with your skills, it’s your own house, you’ve checked your local code, and you can do the work, then that’s a different story. There is a line between DIY and doing electrical work in your house. Calling in the pros is often the best bet. Above all, make sure you’re comfortable! 

How to remove the electrical panel cover

Usually there are 6 pan head bolts or screws that you need to remove.

Make sure you have a good hold on the cover before you remove the last one. This is because the cover is going to come right off. You wouldn’t want the edge of a cover to go inside the electrical panel because that could create a short and be a very serious situation!! 

The internals of an electrical panel

Depending on who did the install for you, it might look like a rat’s nest or it might be nicely routed. Most of my individual circuits are run with Romex and are coming from the top side and I have my main conductors coming from my meter on the bottom side. (This may be the inverse of what you see.)

You’ll see there are three main wires coming from your meter – that’s what’s providing all the power through your main 200 amp breaker or whatever amp breaker you have.

• You’ll see a 120 hot coming on the right-hand side
• There’s a 120 hot coming on the left-hand side,
• Then, you’ll have your neutral coming in the middle and there’s a bus bar that will go out to all those screw terminals seen on the left and right-hand sides. 

Remember even if you hit the main off, the wires coming in are still hot both on the left and right-hand side. So always take caution when you have the cover off your panel.

We did have one circuit that was added later on. This serves as a good example where you run the Romex to your panel and you would cut the outside sheathing off. Then you’d have your black (hot), your white (neutral), and then your bare copper ground — and all those individual wires would then branch to the outside and go to their independent location. 

The white in this instance runs all the way up to this top breaker — and that is because this is a specific type of breaker called an arc fault : where you would have the neutral coming to the breaker for all these other breakers that are not extended back. They are not arc fault/not GFCI, so the only wires that you’ll see coming to these breakers are just your hot conductor from each circuit. 

And then your white neutral wires would then run to these screw terminals. 

Only in the instance of the AFCI or GFCI would you have your neutrals going all the way up to your breakers. Depending on when and where your home was built you might see no AFCI and GFCI breakers or you might see multiple examples of each. 

How do I replace or change a circuit breaker? 

Do you have an issue with a breaker always tripping? You might want to replace this 120-volt Square D 20 amp breaker. This is one of the most common things a homeowner might want to do. Luckily, it’s pretty easy! 

First, turn the power off at the main breaker. That would turn off power to the 2 bus bars running up to all your breakers. 

You could undo your screw terminal to get your hot wire off of this breaker. And then you’ll see a mounting clip in the front. This clip actually connects the breaker to the bus bar. So even though these both look like they might be connected to power, they’re not. 

This is just a front mounting clip, so once you have the wire off here, you can just pull the breaker out. Then, you’d take that down to your home improvement store to match up the exact breaker. FYI, it’s not uncommon to have a few different designs even for the same brand. 

What is actually going on inside of these breakers?

• Mounting clip, which can actually come out.
• Terminal that the wire goes into. This will then go out to your Romex, which connects up to this braided copper wire internally.
• Strip which is the main functional piece to the breaker. 
• Braided wire comes over to this contact point. However, the breaker is open in this state because this contact is not connected up.

(Watch minute 9:00 in the video above to see a fuller explanation of these parts.)

Curious about what happens internally when a short happens? Watch this video . 

3 helpful tips to know during inspections

When it comes to inspections there are 3 things that have come up for me in the past:

• You might see some knockouts with Romex coming up through with no cable, clamp, or anything protecting the Romex against the sharp edge of the box. That can be called out in an inspection. Why? It’s a dangerous situation that can cut into the insulation of your hot and create a short.
• Is the panel is completely full, take off the cover and see if you have one hot wire going to each of your circuits. Often if it’s a full panel, you might see two hot wires going into one breaker and that is not allowed (at least within my area).
• If you do not have a breaker in place but someone has popped the knockout out, you have an opening and a safety hazard. This is because somebody could put their fingers or something within the panel and get shocked. If it is removed and you need to patch the hole, you can get filler plates at pretty much any home improvement store. It’s not a big deal and actually one of the easiest fixes if that comes up in an inspection!

The Wrap Up

Hopefully, this information gets you a little more comfortable with your electrical panel and your circuit breakers. Overall, it’s just good information to know as an educated homeowner!  

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Master electrician Heath Eastman shows host Kevin O’Connor everything he needs to know about why and how breakers trip.

Heath Eastman talks about circuit breakers. Heath shows Kevin O’Connor that while resetting these breakers is simple, these are complex devices that monitor and protect circuits. First, the two talk about the different sizes of breakers before moving on to the different types. Finally, Heath shows Kevin how to test certain breakers to ensure they’re working properly.

Circuit breakers exist to protect people, appliances, and homes from dangerous electrical current. However, few people understand why the trip and how they operate. Master electrician Heath Eastman shows host Kevin O’Connor why this happens, and even explains a few different types of breakers.

All About Electrical Systems

Breakers protect circuits.

When electricity comes into the house, it flows through the electrical service panel. From there, the electricity flows out through different branches in the house, each controlled by a circuit breaker. Should a branch begin to overload and overheat, the breaker will trip to prevent damage.

Breaker Sizes

There are two main sizes of breakers in a house: 15 amp and 20 amp. The amp rating explains how much current the breaker can handle before it will trip, and each requires a certain size of wire. Fifteen-amp breakers require a 14-gauge wire, while 20-amp breakers require a 12-gauge wire.

How They Work

A 15-amp breaker won’t necessarily trip the moment it experiences a spike above 15 amps. Many devices draw more amps upon start-up, and these breakers allow those temporary spikes. However, should the breaker sense elevated amperage for longer than is typical, it will trip to prevent the circuit from overheating.

GFCIs and AFCIs

Beyond circuit overload protection, there are other types of breakers that offer additional coverage. These include GFCI breakers and relatively-new AFCI breakers .

GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) breakers need to experience the same amount of current going out as coming back through the circuit. If the breaker experiences a drop in returning current, it assumes that the circuit is leaking, whether it be through a water source or a person. When this imbalance occurs, the GFCI trips immediately.

AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) breakers sense when the circuit, a device, or an appliance is arcing (the current is jumping from the circuit and onto something else or someone). When the breaker recognizes the arc signature, it trips immediately. These breakers are relatively new and look similar to GFCI breakers, but they’re becoming a code requirement in most locations.

How to Test Breakers

Homeowners, electricians, and inspectors can test their breakers. There are devices that users can plug into an outlet and replicate an error. These devices, known as AFCI/GFCI testers, can trip the breaker altogether or replicate a ground or arc fault, triggering the breaker. This is one of the best ways to ensure that a breaker is working properly.

When to Call a Professional

If a circuit is continuously tripping, or you know that it should be tripping and isn’t, be sure to call in a professional. An electrician will be able to determine the cause of the issue and make sure your circuit breakers and electrical system are safe.

Heath explains what a circuit breaker is, why they trip and how it protects a home. A circuit breaker is a device, installed in the electrical panel, that controls whether power can be sent from the panel through a circuit. Heath explains this ability is controlled by a switch that can be operated either manually—like when a person wants to interrupt power for service—or automatically, like a breaker trip.

He says power overloads, current “leaks”, and arcs are the three reasons that would cause a breaker to trip. A Power overload happens when a device is calling for more power than a receptacle , or a circuit is designed to provide. Current “leaks” are caused when current strays from the circuit for whatever reason, though it happens most commonly when moisture is present. Arcs can happen when the wire breaks down over time (due to overloads but also due to other factors, like animals chewing the wire and other decay) but what Heath sees the most is human error.

If a specific receptacle is consistently tripping the breaker, Heath advises to have a licensed electrician identify the problem to ensure the work is done safely.

Next Up In Electrical

• How to Label a Circuit Breaker
• Simple Guide for Selecting a Home Generator
• All About Portable Power Stations
• Simple Guide to Installing a Generator Hook-Up
• How to Build a Utility Cover
• Understanding Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

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What to Do If Your Circuit Breaker Trips

Basically, electric current flows into your home into the breaker box (usually built in the garage or in the basement in the home) where it’s split into a number of circuits and sent throughout the house.

For rooms that only need electrical power for small things like lighting fixtures and televisions, you usually only need 15-amp circuits. For rooms with bigger appliances, such as the kitchen or bathroom, you’ll usually have 20-amp circuits. Certain appliances, like the oven or dryer, are so power consuming they need 30 – 50-amp circuits all to themselves! When it is said that a circuit breaker “trips,” it means that circuit has detected what’s known as a fault condition and has shut itself off to prevent the wiring from overheating and potentially igniting itself.

Resetting a tripped circuit breaker is generally pretty easy – you just need to go back to the electrical panel, find the circuit that’s not facing the same direction as the rest and flip it back to it’s original setting. If the breaker trips again right after you do this, that’s a problem – you’ll have to figure out the cause of the problem before you can fix it.

If your circuit breaker trips right after being reset, you could be facing one of three issues:

•  an overloaded circuit
•  a short circuit
•  a ground fault

Overloaded Circuit

An overloaded circuit is the most likely problem that would make your breakers trip. In simple terms, it means there is more current flowing through the circuit than it is made to carry, so it shuts off to stop any damage.

Remember earlier when we spoke about the different levels of current certain rooms in your home receives? When you are searching for an overloaded circuit, try finding any appliances on the overloaded circuit that would be using more electricity than the circuit would allow. Pay extra attention to objects such as space heaters, toasters, hair dryers straighteners, etc. – These things tend to consume the most power.

The solution for overloaded currents is pretty simple – just unplug things you’re not using! If this doesn’t solve the issue, call an electrician – you may have loose connections somewhere in the house, though this is pretty rare.

Short Circuit

If the problem is not being caused by an overloaded circuit, most likely a short circuit is the issue. Short circuits are a slightly more serious problem than overloaded circuits, which happens when the hot (black) wire touches another hot wire or a neutral wire. The surest way to tell if you are having a short circuit is to first check your power cables for damage or a melted covering (make sure the appliance is unplugged first)  and to check the power outlets or plugs for discoloration or a burning smell. If you can’t locate the problem, hire an electrician to take a look at it.

Ground Fault

If you’ve looked at the two other possibilities and checked for problems, but you don’t think you have an overloaded or a short circuit, you should check to see if a ground fault is causing your troubles. A ground fault exists when the hot (black) wire touches the ground (bare) wire or the walls of a metal outlet box. If you have a ground fault, it’s best to have a  Vancouver electrician take care of the problem.

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What Is a Main Circuit Breaker and How Does It Work?

Timothy Thiele has an associate degree in electronics and is an IBEW Local #176 Union Electrician with over 30 years of experience in residential, commercial, and industrial wiring.

• Difference Between Breakers
• System Shutoff

Your electrical panel is full of circuit breakers , running from top to bottom of the service panel. For the sake of convenience, the breakers are usually numbered and mapped, with the odd-numbered breakers running down the left side of the panel, and the even-numbered circuits along the right. But sitting atop both rows of branch circuit breakers there is a single larger circuit breaker that is usually located dead center in the panel. In most installations, this larger breaker is located at the top of the panel, but depending on how the main service panel has been installed, it could be at the bottom, or even at one end of a panel mounted sideways. 

The Spruce / Ana Cadena

This large circuit breaker is known as the main breaker , and it plays a crucial role in the electrical system by offering the means of disconnecting power to the entire circuit breaker panel and hence shutting off power to the entire house.

The Difference Between Breakers

The main circuit breaker is really no different than any other breaker, but it is designed to handle the large amperage load of the main feeder wires bringing electrical power to the house. For this reason, it will be by far the largest breaker in the box in terms of amperage rating.

Breaker Amperage

In a few older homes, the main breaker may be rated as low as 60-amps, but it's much more common for the main breaker to be rated for 100-amps, 150-amps, 200-amps—or even more in a few very large homes. 

Your main service panel is designed to bring 240 volts of power into your home via two main service wires, each carrying 120 volts of current. Inside your service panel, these service wires connect directly to the main breaker, which then distributes power down through two individual hot buss bars in the service panel. The individual circuit breakers for branch circuits will receive their power by connecting to one or both of these hot buss bars. Circuits for 120-volt circuits connect to one buss bar; circuits for 240-volt circuits connect to both hot buss bars. 

The Purpose of the Main Circuit Breaker

Branch circuit breakers are designed to shut off power to individual circuits if they overload by trying to draw more power than the wires can safely handle, and the main circuit breaker is much the same. The main breaker shuts off power to the entire house if the overall load demand grows too high or if there is another serious problem in the electrical system. Usually, these problems involve momentary power surges, but sometimes there may be system problems that will need to be diagnosed. It is fairly rare for the main circuit breaker to "trip," because usually, it is individual circuit breakers that trip long before there is a need for the main breaker to shut off. 

Using the Main Breaker as a System Shutoff

The main breaker also provides the means of shutting off power to the entire house if you need to do some major work on the system. In this case, there is a recommended procedure to follow if you are shutting off power to the entire house:

• Shut off each individual circuit breaker in the panel, one at a time. 
• Then flip the lever on the main circuit breaker to the OFF position. 
• When it comes time to turn the power back on, begin by resetting the main breaker to the ON position, then turn on each individual circuit breaker, one at a time. The goal here is to avoid sudden power demands on the main breaker. 

Resetting a Main Circuit Breaker

There are a number of reasons why the main breaker might trip. Lightning strikes, power surges from the utility company, or an overload to the electrical panel can all cause the main breaker to trip. If an individual circuit breaker fails and loses its ability to trip as designed, it may actually be the main breaker that trips to provide the secondary safety shutoff. Again, there is a recommended procedure for resetting the main breaker:  

• First, turn off all the individual circuit breakers controlling branch circuits. This is done to ensure that circuits driving motors do not all activate at the same time when you reset the main breaker. It's much safer to turn on individual circuits one at a time after resetting the main breaker.
• Reset the lever on the main breaker to the ON position. When resetting any breaker, stand off to the side of the panel when flipping the lever. It's advisable to wear safety glasses and turn your head while resetting any breaker . By doing this, you will protect yourself from any possible electrical flash or sparks. The chances of this happening are remote, but such episodes have been known to occur. 
• Turn on each individual circuit one at a time by resetting its lever to the ON position. The idea here is to avoid dumping the entire power load on the main breaker all at once.

Always practice electrical safety while turning on and off circuit breakers and working in an electrical panel. Usually, the main breaker trips due to a temporary issue and resetting it will solve the problem. but if the main breaker trips again, or trips repeatedly, you are well advised to call in a professional. The problem may involve a short circuit in the main panel, a failed main circuit breaker, or another serious problem.

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• Subpanels Explained for Home Owners
• How to Reset a Tripped Breaker
• How to Turn Off Power at the Electrical Service Panel
• Garbage Disposal Not Working: 4 Problems & Solutions
• How to Replace a Circuit Breaker
• Amps vs. Volts: The Dangers of Electrical Shock
• What Happens When a Fuse Blows
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• How to Determine Your Electrical Service Amps
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A Guide to Your Home's Circuit Breaker Panel

A guide to your home's circuit breaker panel.

Your home’s circuit breaker performs two vital roles. First, it distributes the power coming into your home into circuits that provide electricity everywhere you need it. Next, it protects these circuits from overloads with circuit breakers that interrupt the flow when there’s danger. In this article we’ll examine what circuit breaker panels do, plus when and why you may want to replace or upgrade them.

Table of Contents

• What is a Breaker Panel?
• Breaker Panel Locations
• Breaker Panel Components
• Breaker Panel Size
• Signs You May Need a New Breaker Panel
• Upgrading Your Breaker Panel
• Replacement DIY?

One of the most crucial parts of your home’s electrical system is one you probably don’t think about very often. Whether you call that part a breaker panel, circuit breaker box, breaker box, electrical panel, or electric service panel, it's an important part of your home's electrical power system.

It’s crucial because all the electricity that your home uses flows through this unobtrusive piece of hardware and the circuit breakers inside. Properly configured, you’ll probably give it very little thought.

But if it isn’t up to the job, you may find its failings not only very inconvenient, or even find that the safety of your home is compromised.

In this article, we’ll examine what the electrical panel is, how it works, and more. And we’ll look at some of the reasons you may want to have your main breaker panel checked by qualified electricians or maybe even have your panel replaced or upgraded. Let’s start by learning the basics of the breaker box.

What is a breaker panel?

Your circuit breaker box is the connection between the power grid outside of your home and the wiring inside. This main service panel is the central distribution point that ensures that all the electrical outlets, appliances, lights, heating, and more get the necessary power.

Power comes into the breaker box from the outside through what is known as a service drop, either from buried power lines or power poles. From there electricity is routed to branch circuits that power your home.

Other names you should know

The term “breaker panel” comes from the breakers that control power to each of the branch circuits leading out of the panel. There are a variety of other names. You may find it referred to as the circuit breaker box, breaker box, electrical panel, or electric service panel. Whatever it's called it works the same way.

How it works

The circuit breakers perform an important safety function by shutting off power to branch circuits when they detect an overload. That’s why you may have experienced a circuit breaker tripping (shutting off) when you’ve plugged in one too many appliances in your kitchen.

If you’re old enough or live in a much older home, you may be familiar with the older version of this, the fuse box. Fuses performed the same function in protecting your branch circuits from overloads, but a blown fuse has to be replaced to reestablish power to the circuit, while a circuit breaker can be reset just by throwing a switch.

Breaker box capacity

The most important stat to consider about your electrical panel is the amperage capacity. Amperage, or amps, is a measure of the amount of electricity used. As homes have grown bigger and use more electrical appliances, the amperage capacity of the home’s breaker panels has increased. 200-amp circuit breaker panels are now common, but you may find electrical panels or fuse boxes with ratings as low as 60 amps in homes built before the mid-1960s.

Where will I find my main breaker box?

If you’ve never had to use your breaker panel, you may wonder where it’s located. There are a few common locations.

The  garage  is a common location, usually placed against an outside facing wall where the power feeds in via the service drop. 

If you have a buried power line, it’s common to find the breaker panel in the  basement . 

Other locations that aren’t as common for single-family homes, but that may be more likely in a townhouse or duplex are in  lower-level hallways , a  kitchen pantry , or a  utility closet . 

A less common location that you may find with some older homes is on an  exterior wall .

A look inside your electrical panel

Open the door of your electrical panel and let’s take a tour. 

What you can't see

When you open the box you see the main breaker panel, with a number of switches. Beneath that is the hot bus bar and a ground bus bar. The powered and ground wires are routed to each of the individual switches that you'll see.

Main switch

You’ll notice a single switch at the top of the panel. This is the main breaker. Set this to OFF, and you’ll shut off all the power to your home. 

Individual circuit switches

The first thing you’ll probably notice once you open the door to your breaker panel is two rows of numbered switches. These are your circuit breakers — each controls a single circuit in your home. The breakers are normally set to ON, which allows power to flow through the circuit. If the switch is set to OFF power will not enter the circuit. 

On the inside of the door panel will be a paper card with information corresponding to the numbers. For example, the card may read “1 – Kitchen Outlets.” Flip the corresponding switch from ON to OFF and you’ll cut the power to the outlets in your kitchen.

Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon for the card to be poorly written or hard to read! It’s worth taking the time for you and another person to examine what all the switches control and make sure the card is accurate and legible so you’ll know how to shut the power down to circuits if necessary, for example, if you are replacing an outlet or wall switch. 

Single-pole and double-pole switches

There are two types of circuit breakers in your panel. 

• Single-pole breakers are single switches, usually with an amperage rating of 15 or 20 amps. They’re common for most household circuits of 120 volts.
• A double-pole breaker is a double switch (two switches connected). These have higher amperage ratings that are made to handle 240 volts. These will be connected to devices like furnaces, water heaters, air-conditioning, EV charging stations, and other circuits requiring high voltage.  

The sub-panel

In some cases, you may have a sub panel next to the main box. This is usually because additions have been made to the home’s electrical system and additional breaker capacity was required, or you have outbuildings that you want to run on a more isolated system. A sub-panel is also common when a backup generator is on the home’s electrical circuit.

The size you need

If you’re reading up on breaker panels and panel upgrades, you may see a discussion of the breaker panel’s rating. The most common ratings you’ll see discussed are 100-amp or 200-amp. These ratings are a reflection of the electrical capacity of the panel.   

These are only suitable for small homes that don’t use electricity for heating or central air conditioning. With a 100-amp panel you can provide power to lights, receptacles, and appliances, but not much else.

  200-amp  

These are the standard for most new construction and are suitable for average electrical needs. If your home is particularly large or requires more electricity, you may need to upgrade to a larger panel box.

These panel boxes are used for larger homes with extensive electrical needs, particularly if electricity is used for home heating. If you’re upgrading the electrical system of your current home to accommodate an addition, a workshop, or an outbuilding that requires a subpanel, you may also need to upgrade the main panel to a 250-amp model or larger. 

Signs that your current electrical panel isn't up to the job

If you’re like most people, you’ve experienced a circuit breaker tripping. Time to unplug the blender, go reset the breaker, and get on with life. That’s an example of your breaker panel doing its job, and if it’s only an occasional problem, you don’t have anything to worry about.

But there are other times when this isn’t OK, and some other signals that your breaker panel may be getting overloaded or not operating properly. Let’s take a look at some of these. 

Frequent breaker tripping

The occasional trip of a circuit breaker shouldn’t be a cause for alarm. But if one or more of your home’s circuit breakers have to be reset regularly you do have a problem. In some cases that can be fixed easily by replacing the problem breaker with a higher amperage model. But it’s wise to check with an electrician to make sure that this is a viable option for you. 

You still have a fuse box

If your home is old enough that you still have a fuse box, it’s high time to get it replaced. Not only are circuit breakers safer and easier to use, but it will also be a good time to have a comprehensive survey of your electrical system done by a qualified electrical contractor. 

Black spots or scorched areas on the panel or wall outlets

If you’ve observed this, get things checked out right away. It’s likely you have a short circuit or failing wiring in your panel box. Electrical issues are a major cause of home fires, so please don’t allow yourself to be a victim. 

Burning smells near the panel

As discussed above, this may be a sign of faulty or hot wires in your electrical panel. Get it checked out immediately.

Wiring that appears melted

The job of your circuit breakers is to ensure that excess current doesn’t enter the circuits in your home. If wiring is overheating and melting, your circuit breakers aren’t doing the job and hot wires may be deteriorating. Get them checked out right away. 

Hissing sounds or hot surfaces

An electrical system in proper working order should work quietly and without excess heat. Don’t delay if you detect these danger signs.  

Flickering or dimming lights

These are a sign that an uneven flow of power is coming through your electrical panel. This can happen when the wiring in the panel or some of the individual circuit breakers are in poor shape. 

In all of these cases, your first step should be to contact qualified, well-trained electricians and have them take a look at the problem right away.

When should you upgrade your home's electrical panel?

Besides the issue of safety brought on by an old or defective breaker panel, there are some great reasons for upgrading, and a new breaker panel installation can fix some potentially serious problems. Let’s examine some of the most common reasons new electrical panels are installed. 

Your current panel is outdated or can’t handle your current needs

We’ve touched on this issue before. If your home still has a fuse box, or if you find that you can’t handle your home’s electrical needs, you should upgrade. In the case of fuse boxes, age alone is a smart reason to upgrade.

If you find that you’re constantly overloading circuits and using a lot of power strips and extension cords, your system seriously needs an upgrade, starting with the breaker panel.  

You're adding a home generator

Adding a home generator and using it safely will require some new wiring and the addition of a sub-panel to your existing panel. This sub-panel will separate the power coming into your home from the generator from the power grid, providing separate electrical circuits to connect the generator and ensuring the safe operation of the generator when necessary. 

Home additions are in your plans

You’ve decided to add an addition to your home? Congratulations! But don’t forget that along with your increased square footage you’ll also be consuming more electricity.

Be sure to have your existing panel evaluated and see if you’ll need to resize it to add more electrical capacity or room for more circuit breakers for the new wiring. 

You're adding a dedicated home office

If you’ve added a home office you may have increased your electrical demands significantly. It’s a smart idea to contact an electrician or electrical contractor to see if you need to replace or improve your existing panel.

There's an in-law suite in the works

Adding an in-law suite to your home may be a wonderful solution for your family’s needs. But if you planning on adding an independent heating and cooling system to the suite with the use of a multi-split system, you’ll want to be sure that your existing electrical system can handle the increased power needs of it and any other electrical additions. 

Upgrading to an EV charging station

Electricity might very well be the future of transportation. But you’ll need to charge that new EV, and the fastest way to do it at home is with the use of a Level 2 charger that uses a 240-volt circuit. That could be a big addition to your home’s electrical system, particularly if you’re starting with a smaller circuit breaker panel.

Always play it safe

Being a do-it-yourselfer can be very satisfying. But it’s smart to know your limits. If you decide you want to replace or upgrade your electrical panel, consider very carefully whether it’s something that you can do yourself. 

Home electrical fires and deaths are an  unfortunate fact.  If you’re not completely certain you know what you’re doing when installing electrical systems it’s smart to leave the work to the experts. At Team Enoch, all of our technicians are highly trained, and we’re used to taking on projects ranging in scale from minor residential improvements and repairs to major commercial projects.

If you want to evaluate your home’s circuit breaker panel for current safety, or if you want to upgrade our system to handle current or future demands,  contact us  to set up an appointment. We’ll be in touch fast, and estimates are always free.

Adding a circuit yourself

Be realistic about working on your electrical panel. But if you're handy and willing to take basic safety precautions it can be a do-it-yourself job.

First, turn off the main panel switch, then remove the screws holding the panel and remove it. Inside you'll see two large lugs with black wires connected to them, near the top of the panel. Don't ever touch those, since they're still live!

Remove the metal "knockout" on the panel at the point where you want to install the new breaker. Feed in the cable for the new circuit. Route the cable to the location where the new breaker switch will be installed and strip the wires to the length indicated by the breaker switch documentation.

Connect the wires to the new switch and snap it into the panel location. Replace the panel cover, turn the power back on and test the circuit.

A small panel with a big job

Your little-noticed breaker box plays a big role in your home. But if you find you’re noticing it more than you have in the past, it could be a sign of trouble. If your system isn’t keeping up with your demands, or you’re noticing unusual activity, don’t hesitate to contact an electrical professional.

And if you’re planning on doing some home improvements that involve your electrical system, the first place to check should be your breaker panel. If it doesn’t have the necessary capacity, you could run into trouble and further expense down the road. Start with your breaker panel when you’re upgrading and you’re making a wise move!

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8 comments on “A Guide to Your Home's Circuit Breaker Panel”

I found it helpful that you mentioned how 200-amp breaker panels are typically best for spacious homes that need plenty of electricity. Now that my wife and I have moved into a new home, we would like to install a quality breaker panel that will allow us to install an air conditioning system in our living room next summer. Maybe we should find a professional that can help us install what we need.

Hi there. Was wondering if you could do an update explaining exactly how the wires work in the electrical panel and how electricity works.. it would be just as popular as this article I'm sure. I for one would enjoy reading it.

Hey Travis, Thanks for the input, we will definitely consider writing an article about the wiring inside the electrical box. Please be sure to subscribe to our blog to be notified of new articles.

Thanks for the reminder that I will also have to think about circuit breaker panel installations when planning a home addition project. I'm thinking about having a sunroom in my home but I'd still like for it to have light fixtures in case of gloomy days. As such, some strategic wiring will have to be planned for it.

I want to replace some light switches and outlets in my house, but I’ve tried to locate which circuit they are on in my breaker box and they don’t seem to be connected to any breakers. I’ve turned off every circuit breaker in the box but the power remains on.

Hey Ted, Thanks for reaching out. We are happy to help, please give us a call at (817) 888-8880 to speak to one of our licensed electricians.

Good to know that flickering or dimming lights is really a sign of uneven power flow passing through the electrical panel and this happens when wiring or individual breakers are not in a good shape. I was really wondering about that since I already changed the light bulbs in my bedroom and it is still flickering. In this case, I should get in touch with an electrician to ask for repairs.

Hi, I have a new house and I have one CB called the panel breaker. Do you know it's purpose? Thanks

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What’s Tripping My Circuit Breaker? 4 Possible Causes

As electricity flows through the wiring in your house,  circuit breakers  serve as critical safety devices that prevent overloads. When too many amps of electricity are pulled into a circuit, both damage and danger result. Wiring can overheat and melt insulation, causing a fire.

A circuit breaker is a more modern, reusable version of a fuse. The breaker constantly monitors the flow of electricity into a circuit, and if for any reason the amperage exceeds the circuit’s rated amount, the breaker trips and the flow of electricity is interrupted at the breaker panel. All outlets on that individual circuit and all devices plugged into it are instantly powerless.

How Much Load Is Too Much?

In a typical residence, circuits in living spaces like bedrooms and family rooms are generally rated for 15 amps. Parts of the home where more amperage is used such as the kitchen or laundry room will be controlled by more heavy-duty circuit breakers rated for 20 amps. Certain high-demand appliances, electric water heaters and central HVAC equipment will typically occupy an individual dedicated circuit and are rated for 30 to 50 amps.

While a tripping breaker is an important safety feature, it can be an annoyance as well, particularly if it happens often. A breaker that trips repeatedly is telling you something important about your home’s electrical circuitry or devices connected to it. Repeated breaker trips should never be simply reset and ignored.

Here are four common causes for a tripped circuit breaker.

Circuit Overload

A circuit overload, which is the most common cause of a breaker trip, occurs when a device plugged into the circuit demands more amperage of electricity than the circuit is rated to supply. This may occur because too many devices are already drawing current on that circuit and the circuit has reached its maximum rated capacity.

The remedy for circuit overload is to re-distribute the load more evenly by plugging some devices into other circuits.

Appliance Issues

Another may occur when a single electrical device draws excessive amps due to an internal malfunction or defect. For example, the electric motor incorporated in an air conditioner compressor may overheat due to internal wear and may pull too many amps. Or a heater or stove that utilizes electric resistance coils to produce heat may begin to cause overloads.

When a single device or component is causing breaker trips, it must be disconnected from the circuit and evaluated to isolate the problem. Repair or replacement of the device is required before it can be plugged back in and utilized safely.

Short Circuiting

A circuit short occurs when an insulated portion of the black “hot” wire physically contacts another black wire or a white neutral wire. This sends a surge of amperage into the circuit that causes the circuit breaker to trip instantaneously.

Short circuits may occur when household wiring degrades due to age and insulation frays or cracks, allowing bare wires to come in contact. Or it may be caused by an internal defect in any device that’s plugged into an outlet on the circuit.

Short circuits should be tracked to their source by looking for any discolored outlets, melted or cracked power cords or any devices that malfunction or emit a smell of burning wire. If obvious external causes can’t be readily identified, the problem is likely within the wiring itself. Leave the breaker switch off and contact a  professional electrician  to trace the problem.

Ground Fault

A ground fault happens when the hot wire in circuit contact either a ground wire or a grounded metal component such as the metal outlet box. A ground fault is simply another version of a short circuit that causes an electrical overload which triggers the breaker to trip in response.

Pinpointing and correcting a ground fault can be done by a qualified electrician using equipment specifically designed to troubleshoot circuitry.

For more information on circuit breaker issues that affect your home, in Bradenton check out Luminous Electric’s  residential electrical repair solutions  or call .

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The basics of trip curves for panel builders

A critical but often confusing characteristic of miniature circuit breakers are trip curves. Knowing the basics of trip curves can ensure selecting the lowest-cost breaker that will provide the needed protection without nuisance tripping. 

To the average consumer, circuit breakers are basic on/off devices that trip when they detect incoming current above the rated threshold. Panel builders, however, understand that breakers operate in a far more sophisticated way considering multiple variables: variables that can be represented graphically in a trip curve that shows the range of conditions that will initiate a trip. 

Selecting the optimum miniature circuit breaker (MCB) is critical to helping ensure proper protection, with minimal or no nuisance tripping, at the lowest possible cost. Matching a breaker to an application requires an understanding of the basics of trip curves. 

Molded-case versus miniature circuit breakers

Almost every electrical-protection device operates based on a simple formula: If THIS, then THAT. Some large, molded-case circuit breakers can be adjusted to adapt the breaker to the application, reacting to THIS variable with the appropriate THAT response. 

This adjustability enables panel builders to select a molded-case breaker with the required specifications – plus a “safety factor” to account for application unknowns or future equipment changes – and then “tune” the breaker once it’s in use. 

MCBs, on the other hand, operate based on only two parameters that cannot be adjusted: overload and short-circuit. Even with just these two basic parameters, though, breaker buyers have a broad selection of MCBs that could potentially meet their application requirements. Selecting the appropriate breaker includes considering not just features like amperage, voltage, and interrupting rating, but also trip curves.

Trip curve basics

Most protective devices have a defined trip curve, also referred to as a time/current curve, that describes their behavior. The curve is represented in a graph showing how the breaker will respond to changes in current, basically the high- and low-current thresholds, that will cause a trip.

The optimum trip curve balances overcurrent protection and machine operation. A fast-acting trip curve will do an excellent job of protection, but at the cost of frequent and costly nuisance tripping (mostly due to inrush currents of motors and transformers). A breaker with higher trip points will better keep the process up and running.

Trip curves are defined by IEC standards 60898-1 and 60947-2. The curves represent two different trip functions: thermal and electromagnetic. The thermal section (top/red area of the chart) that responds to overloads typically consists of a bi-metallic strip. The thermal trip unit responds relatively slowly and is consistent across all trip curves.

The short-circuit section (bottom/grey) relies on a magnetic coil or solenoid that opens when the overcurrent’s design limit is reached. This section of the breaker responds within milliseconds. This characteristic of the trip curve has no counterpart on the UL side. 

The concept of trip curves originated in the IEC world, and the alphabetic code used to categorize MCBs carried over from IEC standards. They define the lower and upper thresholds for tripping (no-trip threshold and trip threshold). The trip-curve graph shows the tolerance band within which manufacturers can set the individual tripping point of their breakers.

The characteristics of the magnetic/short-circuit trip unit and applications of each curve, from most- to least-sensitive are: Z: Trips at 2 to 3 times rated current. Suitable for highly sensitive applications, e.g., semiconductor devices. B: Trips at 3 to 5 times rated current. C: Trips at 5 to 10 times rated current. Suitable for medium inrush currents. K: Trips at 10 to 14 times rated current. Suitable for loads with high inrush currents, mostly for use with motors and transformers. D: Trips at 10 to 20 times rated current. Suitable for high starting currents.

Referring to the graph above, you can see that higher currents trigger more rapid trips.

The ability to tolerate inrush current is an important consideration in trip-curve selection. Certain loads, notably motors and transformers, experience a momentary change in current – the inrush current – at contact closure. Faster protective devices, like a B-trip curve, would see this inrush as a fault and open the circuit. For these types of loads, trip curves with a higher magnetic tripping point, either D or K, can “ride through” the momentary inrush of current, protecting the circuit without nuisance tripping.

Choosing the right trip curve

Experienced panel builders can often identify the appropriate trip curve for various applications but may require some trial and error to arrive at the optimum breaker. For many panel builders, though, the best approach may be to consult with your device manufacturer or distributor. Provide them with the details of your application, and they should be able to recommend the right miniature circuit breakers to meet your needs.

See related blog post “Choose enhanced breaker and controller options to build more-competitive panels” .

Thomas Weinmann

Senior Product Marketing Manager

ABB Electrification Business

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Breaker Tripping With Nothing Plugged In (Why & How to Fix)

When we think of a circuit breaker that keeps tripping, common wisdom would be that you’re dealing with a home that’s using up too much energy. So, if it’s happening to you, you might unplug some stuff. But, sometimes, the breaker just will keep tripping regardless of how much stuff you unplug. Clearly, it’s not energy consumption anymore. So, what gives?

A circuit breaker can trip when there is nothing plugged in if there is a ground fault or the circuit breaker is outdated. Damaged wires within the circuit breaker can cause it to keep tripping for no reason. The average circuit breaker lasts for 35 years, and they can trip with nothing plugged in when they are over 30 years old.

Circuit breakers are necessary to prevent electrical problems, expensive damage, and most importantly fires. It can be alarming when your circuit breaker keeps tripping when there is nothing plugged in. Follow along as we explore what it means when your circuit breaker trips for no apparent reason.

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Why Would A Circuit Breaker Trip Without Anything Plugged In?

A breaker is meant to break electrical currents due to an overload, so it really shouldn’t be breaking without anything plugged in. This means that you might be dealing with an electrical issue regarding the breaker. This can be potentially dangerous, so it’s important to troubleshoot this as soon as possible, and call an electrician to fix it.

Troubleshooting Your Circuit Breaker

So, you already know that you’ve got a breaker that’s not doing what it’s supposed to do. What should you do now? The answer, clearly, is that you are gonna have to troubleshoot your circuit breaker . Here’s how to do it:

• Before anything else, check to see that you don’t have anything that could be causing the breaker to trip.  If your breaker’s tripping is related to two rooms, check to see that it’s not your DJ equipment or extra-large entertainment set up in the next room that’s causing it.
•  Check the input wires for damage.  If you notice that they’re frayed or have reason to believe that their movement is causing the breaks, call an electrician. You need to get the input wires replaced or fixed.
• Reset the breaker. Remove all connected items in your room from their plugs and reset your breaker. If it breaks again, then there is an issue that you have to fix.
• Keep an eye out for signs of a short circuit, fuse issue, or ground fault. When you’re dealing with a short circuit, you might notice a burn mark or a smell near an outlet. With a ground fault break or fuse issue, you may have a problem with wiring overheating or being exposed to water. If you believe you have an issue with this, give an electrician a call.
• If all else fails, you have a faulty breaker.  Even circuit breakers will eventually need to be replaced. They will eventually go bad. If you can’t find anything else wrong, it’s time to get a new circuit breaker. If you’ve had your circuit breaker for a very long time, it’s possible that your breaker just ran its course and needs to be replaced.

However, there are several problems that range from a ground fault to an outdated circuit breaker that you need to consider. Let’s take a look a the most common reasons that your circuit breaker keeps tripping when nothing is plugged in.

Ground Fault

A ground fault, or earth fault, is when an active wire touches the earth . Ground faults occur when a wire and the ground interact and overload the circuit breaker with the current. There is no resistance or restrictions with the earth, so an unrestricted flow of current goes through the wire and to the circuit breaker.

A ground fault is similar to a short circuit because the current bypasses the circuit wiring . The reaction from a ground fault is immediate, and the circuit will immediately flow uncontrollably. Between the lack of resistance and increased current flow, a ground fault can trip your circuit breaker and potentially damage it permanently.

Electricians treat a ground fault differently than a short circuit, but both problems require a fix. Ground faults are dangerous to fix or come into contact with, and there is potential for electrical shock.

Outdated Circuit Breaker

Circuit breakers have a lifespan just like any other key electrical fixture in your home. The average circuit breaker lasts for 35 years , but they can last for up to 40 years. You can generally tell that your circuit breaker is outdated when it acts up, and old breakers often trip when nothing is plugged in.

Worn breakers are less conductive and reliable, and they are often difficult or impossible to reset . Old circuit breakers produce a distinct burning smell that can be alarming. The voltage and current strength on an outdated circuit breaker are unpredictable and fluctuate wildly.

If your circuit breaker is nearly 30 years old and often feels hot, it is likely outdated . Replace your old circuit breaker if it frequently trips with nothing plugged in after you reset it

Old homes have different wiring configurations than modern homes, and that can affect your circuit breaker. Generally, old homes have circuit breakers that work via a single circuit. A single circuit is not enough to keep up with the electrical demands of modern homes .

Homes that are 40-50 years old or older likely have single circuit units that affect multiple outlets and even rooms. Your circuit breaker can trip even if there is nothing plugged in if you have an old home with outdated wiring and an underpowered single circuit system. The only solution, in this case, is to replace your circuit breaker and update your wiring.

Short Circuit

Similar to a ground fault, a short circuit occurs when the electrical flow goes through a short path that it wasn’t supposed to . A short circuit can easily occur if the insulation on a wire is damaged and leaves them exposed. The most common cause for a short circuit is when multiple wires become exposed and touch each other.

The current essentially takes a shortcut instead of going through the circuit wiring. Short circuits cause a massive spike in current flow that overloads the circuit breaker and causes it to trip. It is good that your circuit breaker trips during a short circuit because that can prevent expensive and harmful damage.

Lamps, electric space heaters, and plug-in appliances commonly cause short circuits. Luckily, modern devices generally have well-insulated wires to prevent short circuits. However, a short circuit can happen when nothing is plugged in because the breaker’s wires themselves can cause a short.

Damaged Wires

The wires inside of and connected to a circuit breaker are well-protected, but they can still succumb to damage. Wires are covered with insulation that can melt over time and leave them vulnerable to damage. You should be concerned if you have a damaged input wire because that can be dangerous to touch or work with .

A damaged wire can cause a current leak and your circuit breaker will trip when it recognizes it. This is a safety precaution and prevents the current from going where it shouldn’t and causing a bigger problem. It is ideal to hire a professional electrician to repair damaged wires in your circuit breaker because it is complicated and potentially dangerous.

How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Circuit Breaker?

It costs an average of $1,250 to replace an entire circuit breaker box . However, you can expect to pay $1,800 or more for an upgraded circuit breaker box, but it may be worth the added safety. Replacing single switches on a circuit breaker is much cheaper and that generally costs $45 per switch .

You can spend as little as $205 to replace an AFCI circuit breaker in some cases, but it can cost $280 or more. It is worth the cost to replace a circuit breaker because it is difficult and dangerous to replace one without professional help. However, you need to refer to local building codes if you replace your circuit breaker as a DIY project to save money.

Can You Replace A Circuit Breaker On Your Own?

Technically, most people would agree that this could be a DIY job. However, I’m a little skeptical. With electricity, working on it without much knowledge of what you’re doing is a lot like trying to shoot an arrow up in the air and hope that it won’t hit anything. You might be fine, but you might not be.

If you choose to go the DIY way, just make sure that your local building codes allow you to do this. Many cities now require all electrical work to be done through the use of a certified electrician. So, if you aren’t sure, check with your local municipal office to find out whether DIY is an option.

Related Questions

How long do circuit breakers last.

Circuit breakers last for an average of 35 years , but they can last for up to 40 years. You can tell that you need to replace your circuit breaker if it won’t hold a reset or you notice a burning smell coming from it. Generally, circuit breakers become less conductive when they are old and trip more often.

Why does the circuit breaker trip when lightning strikes

A circuit breaker can trip when lightning strikes because it detects the thousands of amps that come from it . The current from a lightning strike is overwhelming and would overload your home’s electrical grid. It can trip even if the lighting doesn’t touch your house because a circuit breaker can detect the current in the earth or air.

Ossiana Tepfenhart is an expert writer, focusing on interior design and general home tips. Writing is her life, and it's what she does best. Her interests include art and real estate investments.

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How to Wire a Shunt Trip Breaker Wiring Diagram (DIY Guide)

Written by  Edwin Jones  / Fact checked by  Andrew Wright

Table of Contents

Tools You Need

Step 1. install shunt trip accessory to the circuit breaker, step 2. installing shunt trip circuit breaker to the panel board, step 3. understanding the shunt trip breaker wiring diagram, step 4. start wiring the shunt trip circuit breaker to the safety control, step 5. checking or testing the installed unit.

Do you want to have an additional layer of protection for your home? Are you planning to install a shunt trip breaker in your home circuit? Are you looking for a how to wire a shunt trip breaker wiring diagram?

Yes, shunt trip breakers protect your home by cutting off power when activated manually or by your sensor. Although it’s not required, it ensures that power is switched off when the sensor is triggered. These sensors could be smoke detectors, fire alarms, or even a manual emergency stop button.

If you intend to add a safety system, I highly recommend reading through the steps below to know what to expect when installing this accessory.

These are the tools and items you need to get started:

• Shunt trip accessory designed for your existing circuit breaker model .
• A circuit breaker is compatible with your shunt trip accessory if your current breaker isn’t compatible with any shunt trip accessories.
• An emergency stop switch if you want to install a kill-switch button.
• Screwdrivers of various tips and sizes as required in your electrical system
• A Shunt trip wiring diagram as your wiring guide
• Insulating gloves and eye protection

Not all circuit breakers accept shunt trip accessories. In fact, different breakers may require specific shunt trip accessory models. Some breakers also have a built-in shunt trip accessory—all you need is to wire and connect to your circuit to activate it.

Furthermore, some circuit breakers are only intended to have shunt trip accessories installed from the factory. So, before purchasing a shunt trip accessory, it’s highly recommended that you review what make and model of breaker you have. That way, you know what your options are before installation.

If you have a compatible system, you still need a shunt trip circuit breaker wiring diagram to ensure correct installation. However, do not just download any chart from the internet. For example, if you have a Square D branded circuit breaker, you need a Square D shunt trip breaker wiring diagram.

Before beginning installation, ensure that everything you need is within your reach. Also, always think of safety first!

Step-By-Step Guide to Wire a Shunt Trip Breaker Wiring Diagram

First, install the shunt trip accessory to your breaker. This procedure is pretty straightforward. Open your circuit breaker using a small flathead screw. Insert the insulator into its right place, and feed the wires in the holes near the shunt trip. Secure the shunt trip to its location, and put the cover back to the circuit breaker. And you’re done!

You can watch this video by Aaron CBIONE for a video guide on installing a shunt trip to the circuit breaker.

Note: Different makers have different installation processes. It’s best to refer to the manual guide provided in your circuit breaker.

Once the shunt trip accessory is connected to your circuit breaker, you need to connect it to your panel board as the main circuit breaker. Before installing this device, ensure that your system has no power.

If you’re not sure, it’s best to consult a professional electrician to avoid any accidents.

Once ready, open your panel board using your flathead screwdriver and plug in your shunt trip circuit breaker into the main power supply. Connect the mainline and the supply wire to the circuit breaker, then proceed to the next step.

Before wiring your shunt trip breaker to your safety control system or switch, you need first to understand its wiring diagram. This is a crucial part of the installation—that’s why you can’t skip it and need to be more careful with it.

Take a look at this recognizable wiring diagram made by Sikandar Haidar of Electriconline4u as a typical example.

Note: This sample diagram is simple and easy to follow. However, different systems may require other designs. Refer to the charts provided with the shunt trip, safety control system, or switch before starting. If you’re unsure, it’s best to consult a professional.

Using the sample above, connect one wire of the shunt trip to the neutral connection, then attach the other wire to the kill switch. Place a wire on the other side of the terminal of the kill switch through the supply connection.

With this, you now have a kill switch you can use to trip your electrical system’s main breaker quickly.

Pro Tip: Place the kill switch in an accessible area like near an emergency exit, so if a problem occurs, you can easily access it.

After installation, turn on or reconnect the power source to your main breaker panel . Flip the shunt trip circuit breaker on to begin testing your work.

To test your installation, press the kill switch. The shunt trip circuit breaker should immediately trip after pressing the kill switch. If it is not tripped, then there is something wrong with your installation.

Although not a requirement, having a shunt trip breaker in your residence provides an additional layer of safety. This is an excellent option if you have sensors in your building, like smoke detectors or fire alarms.

In case of emergencies, like flooding or sprinkler activation, you can also cut the power source by hitting the kill switch. This can prevent any shorts or accidental electrocutions because no power is supplied to your outlets.

So, what do you think of the installation process? Is it easy enough to DIY? Would you do this on your own? Remember to follow how to wire a shunt trip breaker wiring diagram. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out in the comments below.

I am Andrew Wright. With 8 years of experience designing, installing, and maintaining electrical power systems. I love my job, and I have always wanted to offer others the necessary help so they can take care of their houses.