engine travel limiter

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Engine Travel Limiter

Prevents forward or rearward movement of the engine and the transmission in it’s mount. Positively attaches the engine using the factory engine mount location to the frame on motor plate equiped race cars. A travel limiter can also improve shift quality while improving reaction time. Includes: chassis brackets, engine mounts, rod ends, hardware and instructions. Two recomended.

C/E5052 -Engine Travel Limiter (Universal) Pictured

C/e5053 -chevy travel limiter, check out our latest catalog.

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Engine Travel Limiter JBRC1121 Product Description:

Designed to limit engine movement from torque and "G" forces. Bolts to motor mount pad on block. Tabs weld to engine plate and frame. Comes complete with right and left rod ends, tube adapters, tubing and attaching hardware. Chevrolet

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• Front Suspension
• Front End Hardware

Motion Raceworks SBC BBC Chevrolet Engine Travel Limiters (for use with Motor and Mid Plate)

Motion Raceworks

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Product Description

SBC BBC Chevrolet Engine Travel Limiters (for use with Motor and Mid Plate) 

Innovative , Time Saving, EASY, Strong.  Our new Billet adjustable engine travel limiters not only save you a lot of time but give you ultimately an amazing finished product. 

Every time  we do engine travel limiters it seems an extra pair of hands are needed and/or there is simply a lot of back and forth tacking, holding up, fitting etc. 

Motion Raceworks dreamed up and designed this swiveling billet travel limiter to make fab quick and easy and provide you with an amazing finished product.  Using our unique swiveling self centering billet clevice, you will save a ton of time and have a strong finished product. 

Included in this kit (enough for one side of the engine):

-CNC Billet Aluminum Clevice for 3/8 Rod end 

-CNC laser cut 6061 Aluminum Motor Mount Plate

-Right Hand Threaded Rod End, Chromoly weld tube nut, jam nut

-Left Hand Threaded Rod End, Chromoly weld tube nut, jam nut

-12" Chromoly .065" wall 3/4 tube (enough for any door car)

-Hardware to Mount to Block

-Clevice Hardware 

-Rod End Hardware

-2 Chassis weld tabs

Want to learn how these work or why you should add an engine travel limiter with your motor plate? Watch this video

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Engine Travel Limiters - Installation and How Many?

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In a round tube chassis with front and mid plates, rubber trans mount, moderate horse power (1100): - Where should the engine limiter(s) be installed - From the original engine block motor mounts or front of the engine? - Forward facing or backward facing? - Should I install one (1) or two (2)? Thanks in advance for your input! Mike  

I like 2 seen plenty with one but if its moving and you need to limit it I always think it will twist I mount to the frame back to the motor mont hole or make a plate so it will line up where I want it. You cant make the tube longer from pulling on it but pushing on it flex may happen  

I like the way Mike Duffy does them, i started trying it his way with good results. He runs adjustable tubes from a cross member diagnal to trans mount.  

Pics Mickey? I have been thinking of putting one (or two) on our car. Was told to go from the factory motor mount pads, back at a diagonal to the midplate area...this seem right?  

pics......?  

I have one but know I should have two. Front and rear motor plates. No transmission crossmember. Fabricated a heavy plate to bolt to the tranny mount on the tailshaft. Installed a limiter straight back to the driveshaft loop crossmember. Although this will keep the engine/tranny from moving forward and backwards, it won't stop it from twisting from side to side. My front and mid plates are very narrow so any twisting is highly unlikely.  

I use 2 but run them from the frame rail in front of the engine to the motor mount area on the side of the engine. My thoughts have always been if the car had a frontal impact this might help the motor to go down versus going up if the tube ran toward the rear from the motor mount pad. Carl  

I have one limiter on the driver's side going from the motor mount forward to the frame. 650 hp SBC. S&W Racecars has a nice kit that everything you need for two. Pete  

Thanks everyone for your input. Going with two limiters from original engine motor mounts and running them forward to the frame. Will take a measurement from eye to eye on mounting points and check periodically for stretch - adjusting accordingly. This should do it...I hope ;-) Thanks again...you guys have all been very helpful. Mike  

When this idea first came around. I heard that mounting the limiters to the block at the motor mounts caused some odd wear to the center main bearing. If thats true or not, I have no idea. Just something to think about.  

I actually don't run one. - Trans mount is poly and the midplate bolts to the cage pipes within 1" of the bell housing bolts(I have a set of vertical pipes run between the lower rails and the dash/firewall tube). If that 1/4" plate flexes laterally in a 1" span I have more to worry about than the engine having moved.  

this...  

you shouldn't need engine limiters w/ a motor & midplt on a round tube chassie car. maybe if its a clutch car w/ 1200lbs of base psi but other than that if your motor moves ft to back you got issues w/ your tube  

Our 820" Hemi Ford Motor showed signs of movement with front and midplates, both secured with NAS hardware and machined holes...not oversized sloppy holes. Its an automatic car, but makes 1100 lbs of torque.  

what about a stock susp. car with a motorplate and mid plate and a solid tranny mount do u need to run engine travel limiters its a bbc bowtie block  

This sounds like a broken trans waiting to happen  

My car is setup the same way^^^^^^  

My blown sbc dragster only had 1" between frame and bell housing ...it bent the 1/4" al midplate BAD.... ALL mid/front plate cars should have lateral limiters.....  

Not exactly true, but not a bad idea for alot of cars. Comp and P/S cars don't run limiters because they have the midplate supported on the sides, the top, and a couple of lower mounts for clutch applications. Not really feasable to mount this way on a dragster, but door cars can get away without them.  

ive seen very small amounts of engine movement causing crankshaft thrust bearing problems even with a 1/2 thick midplate mounted directly against tubing. i usually put the limiters on the trans bellhousing side in line with the crankshaft straight back into the double rail. any angle in the limiter will allow movement to some degree....aluminum plates are not as strong (front,back, up or down) as you might think.  

Very interesting comment about the crankshaft thrust bearing issue as I just had to do a repair for exactly that problem (with minimal run time including 6 shakedown passes)! Originally I was concerned about tranny line pressure and converter pressure on the crank, but quickly turned focus to the engine limiters after some research and knowing I was already seeing movement and hadn't made a full pass. I am very hopeful that adding the limiters resolves this problem as it was a costly/timely repair I do not wish to repeat. Other than this I have no idea what could have caused the failure as all clearnance check out good at assembly and the motor look like the day it was assembled except the thrust bearing... Thanks for the additional input.  

i don't run them in my altered or my dart. I have the dreaded solid trans mounts in both of them. no problems.  

I never thought anything bad about using both plates, and a solid trans mount. Thats all we have ever done on our cars, and have had zero issues....  

so you dont run engine travel limiters?  

back before ultra-bells and dedenbear cases i used to see cracked bellhousings, but not so much recently. still ive always used a urethane rear with limiters on motor plates, whatever gets it done IMO.  

I have the 1/4" front plate and .120 mid-plate with a custom made cross member/solid trans mount. I was concerned about lateral movement and called my chassis guy. He says he builds all stock suspension cars that way and has never had a problem. He also builds very nice promod cars so I figure he knows whats going on.  

so he does not run engine travel limiters  

Good read here. I'm stepping up in engine size this winter and have been looking at mounting options. Got plenty of of ideas now. Alan  

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BPS Engine Travel Limiters

BPS Engine Travel Limiters will prevent any front to rear movement in high horsepower applications. A must when using front motor plates and mid plates.

We came up with a system that enables you to install the limiters exactly where you need them. A centering hole is used to temporarily position the clevice when mocking up. We prefer to have the end user drill the needed holes in the correct position rather than rely on bolt tension in others slotted designs. 

• CNC machined 6061-T6 Clevice
• Black anodized finish
• 12" chromoly tube
• Left and right hand weld tube nuts
• Left and right hand rod ends
• All necessary hardware and tabs
• Kit comes completes for both sides of the engine

Assembly and welding required*

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Engine Travel Limiter

CHASSIS ENGINEERING

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• Description

Engine Travel Limiter - Weld-On - Brackets / Hardware / Rod Ends Included - Steel - Natural - Kit

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Motion Raceworks

Small Block Ford SBF Engine Travel Limiters

Motion Raceworks - 26-10016

Racing Use Only, Not Legal for Road Use

You Save 19% ($30.00)

Motion Raceworks SBF ( Small Block Ford ) Engine Travel Limiters (for use with Motor and Mid Plate) 

Innnovative, Time Saving, EASY, Strong.  Our new Billet adjustable engine travel limiters not only save you a lot of time but give you an ultimately amazing finished product. 

Everytime we do engine travel limiters it seems an extra pair of hands are needed and/or there is simply a lot of back and forth tacking, holding up, fitting etc. 

Motion Raceworks dreamed up and designed this swiveling billet travel limiter to make fab quick and easy and provide you with an amazing finished product.  Using our unique swiveling self centering billet clevice, you will save a ton of time and have a strong finished product. 

Included in this kit (enough for one side of the engine):

-CNC Billet Aluminum Clevice for 3/8 Rod end 

-CNC laser cut 6061 Aluminum Motor Mount Plate

-Right Hand Threaded Rod End, Chromoly weld tube nut, jam nut

-Left Hand Threaded Rod End, Chromoly weld tube nut, jam nut

-12" Chromoly .065" wall 3/4 tube (enough for any door car)

-Hardware to Mount to Block

-Clevice Hardware 

-Rod End Hardware

-2 Chassis weld tabs

Want to learn how these work or why you should add an engine travel limiter with your motor plate? Watch this video

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