best places to visit scottish borders

12 Must Visit Towns and Villages in the Scottish Borders

This post lists the best towns and villages in the Scottish Borders that you must visit. The Scottish Borders is a lovely region in Scotland to explore.

Despite the Scottish Borders being in an ideal central location in the UK between Edinburgh and England . The area is often missed out by tourists.

Scottish Borders is a very easy place to reach from the capital city of Edinburgh . This area has everything that you need and bonus, you can avoid all the busy tourist traffic. 

The Berwickshire coast is stunning and dramatic. Also, there is a tranquil vista of rolling hils in the countryside.

Some towns are villages in the Scottish Borders are so charming and beautiful . It is worth it to pay a visit. 

Peebles is a romantic town located on the River Tweed in the Scottish Borders . This is an area which is surrounded by outstanding beauty. A wealth of medieval buildings from the 12th century make up the town. 

The Cross Kirk is one of the medieval buildings, a Trinitarian priory founded by Alexander II in 1296. Traquair House is one of the greatest historic houses in Scotland.

A large map of Scotland known as the Great Polish Map is located nearby. This walk was made by a Polish soldier who was interested in Topography.  

Learn about a well-known Scottish author at the John Buchan Story . Also, learn more about the history of Peebles and the surrounding area at Tweeddale Museum and Gallery .

Peebles Accommodation: Macdonald Cardrona Hotel Golf & Spa , Barns Bothy , Coachman’s Cottage

Things to do in Peebles

• Traquair House
• 1881 Gin Distillery & Microbrewery
• Neidpath Castle
• John Buchan story
• Tweeddale Museum & Gallery
• Great Polish Map

Lauder is a former Royal Burgh and the town has a long medieval High Street. Also, the town is close to the Lammermuir Hills .

Lauder is one of the stops on the Southern Upland Way . The Southern Upland Way is a long-distance walking route from Portpatrick on the west coast to Cockburnspath on the east. 

Thirestane Castle is a 17th-century castle which was once the magnificent home to the Maitland family. The castle has wonderful plasterwork ceilings, fine furnishings and paintings.

There is a toy museum in the castle, tours are available during the summer months.

Lauder Accommodation: Black Bull , Lornebank Homestay , The Maitland at Thirlestane Castle

Things to do in Lauder

• Thirlestane Castle
• Southern Upland Way

In the 19th century, the textile industry was booming in Galashiels . Lots of mills were established in the area and the population increased.

You can learn more about the history and heritage on the Architectural Trail , and the Old Gala House . Also, make sure to pay a visit to The Great Tapestry of Scotland Gallery & Visitor Centre .

Galashiels is a stop on the Southern Uplands Way . Also, the Borders Railway stops here and you can join the National Cycle Network Route 1 . 

Galashiels Accommodation: Tweedbank , The Salmon Inn , Watson Lodge Guest House

Things to do in Galashiels

• Borders Railway Line
• Great Tapestry of Scotland Gallery & Visitor Centre
• Old Gala House
• National Cycle Network Route 1
• Southern Uplands Way

Melrose is a small historic town located near the River Tweed in the Scottish Borders . The small town has a lovely selection of boutique shops and lovely restaurants.

Located at the foot of the Eildon Hills , this is the perfect place to base yourself to hike one of the three hills. Eildon Hill North is a relatively easy and quick hike. 

Melrose has a long history, the Romans occupied the area. Melrose Abbey was the first Cistercian abbey to be established in Scotland . The abbey is famous for the brilliant medieval carving and as a burial place of two kings. 

There are two historic gardens nearby. Priorwood features an apple orchard and Harmony Gardens has a stunning walled garden.

Also, the home of Sir Walter Scott – Abbotsford House is located three miles west on the banks of the River Tweed .

In 1883, Ned Haig a local butcher and rugby player discovered Rugby’s Sevens. Every spring, there is a carnival atmosphere when the international tournament – Melrose Sevens takes place. 

Melrose Accommodation: Mulberry Cottage , The Ghillie , Kirklands House B&B

Things to do in Melrose

• Melrose Abbey
• Eildon Hills
• Priorwood Gardens
• Harmony Gardens

Selkirk is one of the oldest Royal Burgh in Scotland . The town is located high above the Ettrick and Yarrow Valleys in the heart of the Scottish Borders . 

The town has strong links with Sir Walter Scott, as he served as the sheriff for 33 years. Halliwell’s House is Selkirk’s oldest building and is located in a narrow wynd.

There is a museum located in Halliwell’s House which explores the long history of the town. You can learn about William Wallace and the Battle of Flodden.

Bowhill House is a stunning Georgian house located on the outskirts of Selkirk .

The house is located in an enchanting glen and the heathery hills. There are outdoor walking trails, stunning gardens and lakes for fishing.

Selkirk Accommodation: Philipburn Hotel , Heatherlie House Hotel , Kilmuir

Things to do in Selkirk

• Bowhill House
• Halliwells House

Hawick is the largest town in the Scottish Borders with a population of 13,586. There is a nice selection of shops and restaurants, particularly many selling fine knitwear. 

Located in the prime area for the textile industry, it is the perfect place to learn about Scotland’s knitwear and tweed story.

Borders Textile Townhouse is located in a 16th century tower house and offers insights into the textile industry. Also, Hawick is part of the Textile Trail .

Wilton Lodge Park is located on the banks of the River Teviot . Here, you can explore the 107 acres of riverside and tree-lined walks, and a walled garden. 

View excellent exhibitions regarding the town’s history and culture at the Hawick Museum and Scott Gallery . In addition, the Border’s Distillery has been producing whisky in this area since 1837.

Hawick is also a popular stop on the Borders Historic Route .

Hawick Accommodation: Arthur Apartment , Lyndail Cottage , Riverside Retreat

Things to do in Hawick

• Borders Textile Towerhouse
• Borders Taxtile Townhouse
• Textile Trail
• Wilton Park Lodge

Jedburgh is the most southern town on this list and is located just 10 miles north of the English Border, due to the proximity and closeness to the border between Scotland and England . Up to the 17th century, Jedburgh was a frontier town.

Full-blown and ruthless battles are thankfully a thing of the past. Now, this area of the Borders is peaceful with a nice selection of shops, cafes, restaurants and walking trails.

Jedburgh has many historical attractions. The Mary Queen of Scots Visitor Centre is based in the house where the queen stayed on a visit to Edinburgh in 1566. 

Jedburgh Abbey is one of the four Border Abbeys founded in the 12th century for Augustinian canons. Explore the abbey, the visitor centre and the surrounding herb garden which features aromatic plants and a stone display.

At the Jedburgh Castle Jail and Museum, you can learn what life was like for the prisoners in the 19th century. Also, the old Jailer’s house now has displays of the town’s rich history, traditions and industries. 

Ale Water Valley is located between the historic towns of Selkirk , Hawick and Jedburgh . This is a nice place to stretch your legs and has many outdoor activities to participate in. 

Jedburgh Accommodation: Castle Gate Apartment , Reivers Cottage , Serena Lodge

Things to do in Jedburgh

• Jedburgh Castle Jail and Museum
• Jedburgh Abbey
• Mary Queen of Scots Visitor Centre

Kelso 

Kelso is a historic market town, located on the junction of the River Tweed and River Teviot . The town square is said to be the largest city square in Scotland . 

On the cobbles, the old rings where the cattle were tethered on market days still exist. Around the square, there is a lovely array of shops, cafes and restaurants. 

Floors Castle , Scotland’s largest inhabited house, is in the distance in the parkland overlooking the River Tweed . The interiors of the exquisite 18th-century mansion feature tapestries, grand rooms and superb views. 

Kelso Abbey dates back to the 12th century and features the best of Romanesque architecture. Kelso Abbey is one of the finest of the Border’s Abbey .

Beirhope Alpacas is set in a stunning setting, nestled in the Cheviot Hills . Experience the cuteness of the Alpacas on a short trek or during feeding time.

Kelso Accommodation: Tweed Hideaway , The Bothy , Sevenacres

Things to do in Kelso

• Kelso Abbey
• Floors Castle
• Beirhope Alpacas

This lovely historic fishing town is located five minutes north of the border with England . Eyemouth has a natural harbour and fishing dates back to the 13th century. 

Walk along the windswept coast and discover the hidden coves and unusually narrow harbour. Or, walk along the coast to Eyemouth Fort .

Gunsgreen House is a famous mansion house located on the south side. This was the centre of the illicit trade of wine, tobacco, spirits and tea in the 18th century. 

In the 18th century, smuggling with rife in the underground tunnels, narrow wynds and caves. Follow in the footsteps of the smugglers on the Smugglers Trail . 

Eyemouth Accommodation: The Westmorland , Adams House , Near Bank Cottage

Things to do in Eyemouth

• Eyemouth Fort
• Smugglers Trail 
• Gunsgreen House

Coldingham 

Coldingham is the smallest populated settlement on this list. This small village has a population of 512.

It is an attractive village on the east of the Berwickshire coast, only a few miles north of Eyemouth . 

At the heart of the village are the ruins of Coldingham Priory . Coldingham Priory was once the wealthiest and most important monasteries in medieval Scotland . 

Coldingham Sands is Scotland’s answer to Australia’s Brighton Beach . Decorated beach huts line the back of the beach, it is the perfect photo opportunity. 

In the summer this beach is very popular. Coldingham Bay is a popular surfing destination.

For those who enjoy walking, the Berwickshire Coastal Path has great views. 

Coldingham Accommodation: Templehall Cottage , The Law House , The Cedar Tiny House

Things to do in Coldingham

• Coldingham Priory
• Coldingham Sands
• Berwickshire Coastal Path

Saint Abbs is a beautiful coastal fishing village north of Eyemouth and close to Coldingham . This small village is surrounded by a rugged setting, with jagged cliffs and is lined with old fishermen’s cottages. 

Recently, St Abbs has increased in popularity. The town has been featured in the Avengers movie franchise.

Also, Saint Abbs has been the filming location for Harry Style’s music video – Adore You . 

St Abbs’s Head National Nature Reserve involves 200 acres of wild, rugged coastline and dramatic jagged cliffs. It is a hub for sea birds and other wildlife. 

Walk to Pettico Wick Bay , north of St Abbs where you can see the 400 million-year-old pink and purple volcanic lava of the Pettico Wick fault.

St Abbs Lighthouse is a stunning landmark surrounded by great scenic views and wildlife. Also, Saint Abbs is a thriving hub for scuba divers.

Things to do in St Abbs

• St Abbs Head National Nature Reserve
• St Abbs Head Lighthouse

Duns features a lovely quiet market square, where you can try and imagine all the events that have occurred here throughout the centuries. In previous times, this was the main trade market area for the townspeople.

Formula 1 legend Jim Clark grew up on a farm near Duns . Sadly, at the age of 32, the spot claimed his life.

A strong legacy has been left in the town and the wider area. 

You can visit the museum that displays how life work and career. There are displays with racing cars, trophies, fantastic photographs and audio recordings from people that knew him well.

In addition, Duns is the birthplace of John Duns Scotus, the great medieval philosopher. In the 14th century, Duns Scotus taught at the University of Paris. There is a bronze statue of Duns Scotus in the public park.

Duns Castle is a 14th-century castle which is a popular wedding venue. The grounds of Dun Castle is now a park and bird sanctuary.

Take the short and easy trek up Duns Law . At the 700 foot summit, there are remains of an Iron Age Hill Fort and 17th century forts.

Duns Accommodation: Spring Cottage , The White House , Cairnbank House

Things to do in Duns:

• Jim Clark Motorsport Museum
• Duns Castle Nature Reserve
• Duns Castle Estate
• Manderston House

What town are on the border of Scotland?

Gretna is a town in Dumfries and Galloway which is on the border of Scotland . The border runs along the River Sark next to Gretna .

Which is the nicest town in the Scottish Borders?

According to the Sunday Times, Melrose is ‘The Best Place to Live in Scotland’ . This is hard to disagree with as Melrose is a picturesque tranquil town with tonnes of character.

What is the closest village to the Scottish Borders?

The settlement of Coldstream lies just north of the Scotland/England Border on the River Tweed . Gretna is a small town in Dumfries and Galloway which overlooks the Scotland/England Border on the River Sark . 

Coldstream and Gretna were two popular destinations for runaway marriages in the 18th and 19th centuries.

What towns are on the border of England and Scotland?

Gretna is a town in Dumfries and Galloway which is next to the River Sark . The River Sark marks the western part of the Scotland/ England Border making Gretna extremely close to the border.

Coldstream is a small settlement in the Scottish Borders which is located right next to the River Tweed which marks the Scotland/England Border .

The Scottish Borders is perhaps the easiest destination to reach. Dumfries and Galloway to the west, Edinburgh and the Lothians to the north and Northumberland and northern England to the south. 

Explore the ruined historical abbeys, grand stately homes, rolling hills and the spectacular countryside.

Best of all, the little towns and villages in the Scottish Borders , filled with character and culture. On top of this, the locals are extremely welcoming. 

Many of the towns and villages in the Scottish Borders follow the typical market town set-up. Others are small picturesque fishing villages or medieval Royal Burghs . 

All the towns are close by, a short drive away from each another and most are accessible by public transport.

You can combine a few towns and villages in the Scottish Borders to create a great day trip . Eyemouth , St Abbs and Coldingham are lovely coastal towns which will make a lovely afternoon out exploring. 

Also, Kelso , Jedburgh , Hawick , Selkirk and Melrose are often completed together on a road trip. This route is called the Borders Abbey Way .

There is so much history to learn about and gorgeous views to soak in. As one of the least visited and undermined areas of Scotland, I recommend heading here for your next trip.

8 Places To Visit In The Scottish Borders

Published by Graeme on March 24, 2021 March 24, 2021

Places to visit in the Scottish Borders are too often overlooked for the wild Highlands or curated Edinburgh. If you’re guilty of skipping them then you’re missing out. Let me show you just 8 places to visit in the Scottish Borders that you could do in a single daytrip and the stories behind them. It’s a circular route and there are so many other detours you could take along the way.

This is by no means a complete list of things to do in the Borders, but it gives a good variety. Use this as the bones of a daytrip and add or subtract whatever you want along the way!

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1 – Scotts View

https://goo.gl/maps/87PBQZSCGr42SjvD6

The first of our places to visit in the Scottish Borders is this incredible view out towards the Eildon Hill. Named after the man who did so much for Scotland and its stories – Sir Walter Scott.

Walter isn’t the only Scott worth talking about here though. It was said that Michael Scott, the famous Borders Wizard was the one who cleaved the Eildon Hill into the three peaks we see today. The best known story was how Michael got his powers from a white serpent. After defeating the snake out on the hills he was encouraged to retrieve a section and cook it. After tasting the meal he was gifted with incredible knowledge and powers.

You can read or listen to the full story here!

There is parking for cars in a layby and benches to sit and enjoy the scenery.

2 – William Wallace Statue

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Just a three minute drive from Scott’s View, at Bemersyde stands this incredible 30 foot high statue of William Wallace . It was built for the Earl of Buchan in 1814 but as far as we know, Wallace had no connection to this area of the Scottish Borders.

Wallace wasn’t quite a commoner but the son of a minor landowner of Elderslie. He rose from being fairly unknown to be knighted and appointed a Guardian of Scotland, gaining a reputation as a fierce and ruthless fighter along the way.

There are practically no records of Wallace until 1297 when Wallace gathered a band of men and attacked the Sheriff of Lanark. There were a number of small groups carrying out daring attacks until eventually the whole combined Scottish force triumphed at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. One of the English leaders, Hugh de Cressingham was flayed and Wallace made a sword belt out of his skin.

Wallace wasn’t done and he raided the North of England but after his loss at the Battle of Falkirk, his reputation took a hit. He gave up being a guardian but carried on fighting right up until he was betrayed and captured in 1305. At the age of 35 Wallace was hung, drawn and quartered in London then his limbs sent to Perth, Stirling, Newcastle and Berwick.

There is a small car park here and a short woodland walk to the statue.

3 – Dryburgh Abbey

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Another 3 minute trip and we come to the ruins of one of the big four Scottish Borders Abbeys. Any of these incredible buildings make great places to visit in the Scottish Borders! Dryburgh Abbey is beautiful and tranquil but with a turbulent past and more than its fair share of stories.

Built around 1150 for the Premonstratensian Order (try saying that after a few drams) it was destroyed and rebuilt at least three times before eventually giving in to the Scottish Reformation. Sir Walter Scott loved the peaceful abbey and is buried here in a simple tomb. Not far away you can find the plain military tombstone of Field Marshal Douglas Haig, commander of the BEF in WW1.

Having been around for almost 900 years any building would pick up some ghosts along the way and Dryburgh is no exception. They have even spilled over to the hotel next door where the Grey Lady wanders the grounds. The story goes that a young woman lived here when the abbey was still functioning and fell in love with one of the monks. When his brethren discovered their affair they executed him for straying so far from their path and his lover drowned herself in the River Tweed.

Dryburgh Abbey is managed by Historic Scotland . Free to members and £6 for an adult ticket otherwise. Dog Friendly!

4 – Fatlips Castle

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About 25 minutes drive away this time is the interestingly named Fatlips Castle. One of many towerhouses in the Scottish Borders.

This towerhouse went by a number of different names and nobody knows the true reason behind the one that stuck. One story says that there was a goat called Fatlips in the castle that would cry out every time the English were coming. Another explanation was that the lord who lived here was especially friendly and ruled that everybody was to be kissed on entry.

Perched on the Minto Crags in the Borders, the tower was originally built by Turnbull of Barnhill, a famous Border Reiver. The Border Reivers came from both sides of the border and carried out raids on small horses or ponies that could make their way over the poor terrain. They would come back with somebody else’s cattle before another reiver would do the same thing to them. These towers were built as strongholds to stop that from happening!

The legend of how the Turnbulls got their name is a fascinating story. One day, William of Rule was accompanying Robert the Bruce on a hunt when a wild bull attacked. William was a giant of a man and immediately charged in front of the King to protect him. He grabbed the bull’s horns and turned it’s head to side where it could be finished off by the other hunters. Robert rewarded William with lands, the symbol of a bull’s head on his coat of arms and the new surname “Turn-e-bull”. There is limited space to park here and it’s a steep uphill climb to the tower. No entry inside but the view alone makes it one the best places to visit in the Scottish Borders!

5 – Linton Kirk

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We’re really starting to rack up the miles now as we arrive at Linton Kirk 30 minutes away.

Today the kirk sits on a small hill in one of the most peaceful places to visit in the Scottish Borders. Things weren’t quite so peaceful though when this area was terrorised by the Linton Worm.

This was a vicious serpent that hid in a hollow under Linton Hill, living off the local livestock. It had powerful jaws and poisonous breath that would kill whoever came near.

The legend reached the ears of John de Somerville who was desperate to prove himself. Fearlessly, the young man rode over to challenge the beast. He sat on his horse outside the Worm’s lair and it slowly came out to meet him. The Worm opened its jaws wide but couldn’t get quite wide enough to swallow both man and horse. Instead of attacking, it just stood in confusion and that gave Somerville an idea.

He came back with a specially made lance, twice as long as normal with burning peat on the end. Once again it came out and when it opened its jaws wide, Somerville charged forward to lance the burning peat down its throat.

The creature was slain and Somerville was knighted becoming the first Baron of Linton. There is even a carved stone fitted into the modern church that commemorates the story! You can just make out the man on horseback lancing the creature.

The kirk is still used as a place of worship. There is a car park and you can see the carved stone but I would avoid here on a Sunday.

6 – Smailholm Tower

https://goo.gl/maps/ckNAZLRKaVm9QMui7

30 Minutes from Linton stands Smailholm Tower, an isolated sentinel watching over the surrounding landscape.

This peel tower was built by the Pringle family around the early 15th century when they were vassals to the Black Douglases. Smailholm was there to protect the family and their cattle from any Border Reivers prowling around. It would be no easy job to sneak up on the castle and there is a little seat built into the grassy roof for a watchman.

The tower moved into possession of the Scott family and became a great source of inspiration to a young Walter Scott. He would visit here with his grandfather who lived in the nearby farmhouse. The boy spent a considerable amount of time around the ruins of the castle, letting his imagination run wild.

Walter used the tower as a setting in some of his literary works, convincing his grandfather to restore the tower. If it wasn’t for Walter Scott, then this would be lost as yet another pile of stones and we’d have a lot less places to visit in the Scottish Borders today!

Smailholm is managed by Historic Scotland so free to members and £6 for an adult ticket otherwise. You can park and walk around the outside of the tower for free.

7 – Melrose Abbey

https://goo.gl/maps/qwK3ncSLhKZPh2RbA

20 more minutes in the car and we have practically gone full circle now. Melrose Abbey dominates the town and is probably the most important abbey in the Scottish Borders today.

Originally built 1136-46 on the orders of King David I, the interesting thing about Melrose isn’t the architecture or the setting but it’s residents. King Alexander II and the wizard Michael Scott are buried somewhere here but most famously this is the resting place of Robert the Bruce’s heart.

Bruce did a lot of impressive things in his time, fighting to ensure Scotland remained an independent country. Unfortunately, he didn’t have the time to go on crusade. He was a pious man and desperately wanted to go to the Holy Land so on his deathbed, made his loyal friend James Douglas promise to take his heart instead.

Bruce’s heart was placed in a casket, hung around Douglas’ neck and off he went to find his own crusade. The small group of Scots knights joined a campaign against the Moors in Spain. Sadly, not many survived the fighting. One dubious account by Walter Scott has Douglas launch Bruce’s heart at the enemy in a dying act of defiance.

Douglas’ body and Bruce’s heart were returned to Scotland and it was believed the heart was buried in Melrose Abbey but nobody knew where. That was until a mysterious lead casket was dug up in 1996. After a bit of investigating, it was proved there was a recognisable heart inside. It dated from around the right time and was reburied with a memorial stone for all to pay respect to the real Brave Heart.

Melrose Abbey is managed by Historic Scotland so free to members or £6 to adults. The grounds are dog friendly but not the small museum.

8 – Thomas Rhymer Stone

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It might not seem like much, but to me this was one of the most fascinating places to visit in the Scottish Borders. Just outside of Melrose you will find a stone marking where the old Eildon Tree stood. It commemorates a legendary Borders figure called Thomas the Rhymer.

While Thomas was resting under the Eildon Tree, he was approached by a mysterious rider. This was the most beautiful woman he had ever seen and he jumped to his feet and bowed low. She told him that she was Queen of the Fairies and had come to seek him out.

Thomas was baffled but when the Queen invited him to kiss her on the lips, he was soon under her spell. She told him they were going to ride to the fairy kingdom where he would serve her for seven years. Without question, Thomas climbed up behind her.

Thomas was warned that if he uttered a single word inside the fairy realm, he would never return home. It felt like only a matter of days to Thomas when the Queen told him he was free to go. For his service he was gifted with the power of prophecy and a tongue that could never lie. Returning to the Scottish Borders, he became known for predicting events that are still coming true almost 800 years later.

This spot featured in one of his famous prophecies:

“At Eildon Tree, if yon shall be, a brig ower Tweed yon there may se ”

Opened in 1863, the Leaderfoot Viaduct is high enough that you can just see it from the stone.

You can easily park near the stone and wander up to the benches placed for enjoying the view.

Other Places To Visit In The Scottish Borders?

That list has barely scratched the surface of one of the most interesting regions of Scotland. It’s enormous so I could have written 80 places to visit in the Scottish Borders if I’d tried! There are castles, market towns, two more grand abbeys and a whole host of fascinating things to do in the Borders. If you’re interested in literature then some of Scotland’s greatest writers spent time here.

Let me know if you follow this route and enjoy any of the stories you find along the way. Once you’ve finished exploring the Scottish Borders, why not take a visit to Perthshire next?

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13 Comments

Marianne · March 25, 2021 at 10:09 pm

I wish I could save all these knowledge. I hope they will be on future postcards. There’s so much a brain can take 😂😂😂. But always enough room for anyo🐕🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Related

Graeme · March 25, 2021 at 10:23 pm

Don’t worry, all of these stories are posts in Instagram as well that you can save! And this (hopefully) isn’t going anywhere!

Marianne · March 25, 2021 at 10:11 pm

Sorry for all the typos. On a plane ✈️🤔 Qu’est-ce ça ???

Stephanie · March 25, 2021 at 10:26 pm

Love all the stories! I am slowly reading through the ones in Instagram as well. One of these days I am definitely going to visit. So much to see and enjoy.

Stephanie · March 25, 2021 at 10:30 pm

Love all the stories! Enjoyable to read. Slowly working my way through the ones on Instagram as well. Definitely going to have to plan a trip to visit. So much to see and enjoy!

Graeme · March 25, 2021 at 10:47 pm

Glad you’re enjoying them! Hopefully it won’t be long before you can visit and by then I might have a few more of these guides on the way!

Stephanie · March 25, 2021 at 10:32 pm

Didn’t mean to post the same thing twice. 🤣 Apparently it takes a minute to post. 🤦‍♀️ Sorry!

No problem! I think the site is still trying to learn what is spam and what isn’t!

Karen Sieg Taylor · March 26, 2021 at 10:22 am

Very interesting information and lovely pics. One day for when i finally visit Scotland. Thanks

Graeme · March 26, 2021 at 1:08 pm

Hopefully that day is soon!

Billy Boyd · March 26, 2021 at 8:57 am

Amazing! Thanks so much for the information.

You’re welcome!

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The best things to do in the Scottish Borders

Home to ancient abbeys, splendid stately homes and a heritage textiles industry, the Scottish Borders are worthy of your time, so don’t miss these highlights

The Scottish Borders, that green region of sloping hills and patchwork pastures that follows the serpentine shape of the River Tweed, forming a natural border with England, is a quiet part of southern Scotland but one that still manages to hold a surprising number of attractions.

The River Tweed , which gave its name to the Scottish fabric that originated here, once powered the many water mills of the region, and has also long provided a picturesque backdrop to the many beautiful castles and estate houses that line its banks.

But things weren’t always so harmonious here, and the Borders Abbeys of Melrose, Jedburgh, Dryburgh and Kelso are testament to a time of huge unrest. Built during the reign of David I in the 12th century, they once represented Scotland’s might and power, yet they all suffered at the hands of the invading English armies.

For a journey through the Borders from past to present, here are the places you should visit in the Scottish Borders.

Best things to do in the Scottish Borders

Melrose abbey, melrose.

The first and the most famous of the Scottish Borders Abbeys, the ruins of this abbey give a good sense of the scale and prestige of the once grand church. Melrose Abbey was held in such esteem that it was here that Alexander II was buried after his death in 1249 and where Robert the Bruce’ s heart was supposedly brought to be buried (his body was interred at Dunfermline Abbey, in Fife).

Whether it really is the legendary king’s heart lying in the Chapter House is hard to prove either way, but it doesn’t stop people coming to visit this sacred place, just in case.

historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/ melrose-abbey

Seasons, Gattonside

As the name suggests, this restaurant, just a 15-minute walk outside Melrose, focuses on seasonal dishes using produce sourced as locally as possible. Its opening hours are limited (just Fridays and Saturday evenings at present), and it is popular, so do book ahead.

seasonsborders.co.uk

The Hoebridge, Gattonside

Another fine restaurant just outside Melrose, the interiors of the Hoebridge are as fresh as its small plate dishes, which change monthly depending on what’s in season. It’s a great place to support Scottish producers, with fish and shellfish from Ross Dougal in Eyemouth to organic flours from Mungoswells in East Lothian and beer from the Borders’ own Tempest Brewing Co.

thehoebridge.com

SCHLOSS Roxburghe, Kelso

Approached via a long tree-lined driveway, this revamped hotel resort (left), well placed for visits to Floors Castle, is without a doubt the most luxurious place to stay in the Borders. Once part of the Roxburghe Estate, the building has been a country house hotel for some time, but locals will tell you that it was a bit tired and old fashioned. Not so anymore.

Thanks to an ambitious renovation project under its new owners, the 12.18. Group, the new-look SCHLOSS Roxburghe is a delight, with a new-look bistro-style restaurant in Charlie’s, which overlooks the outdoor heated pool, from where you can swim into the peaceful yet jaw-dropping spa to relax before trying out the scented sauna, hot tub or plunge pool.

Rooms are large with modern-style four-poster beds, freestanding baths, and rainfall showers, while a more traditional atmosphere can be felt in the cosy fire-lit lounges and the hidden away bar (see above). On-site activities include golf on the Championship course.

luxuryscotland.co.uk/hotels-experiences/ schloss-roxburghe-hotel-golf-course

Kelso and Floors Castle

Another Borders Abbey can be found in the pretty market town of Kelso, where Sir Walter Scott spent much of his childhood. It has fabulous views of turreted Floors Castle , both from the bridge over the river on the way in and on the drive between Melrose and Kelso.

Though it looks like something from a fairytale book, Floors Castle is home to the 11th Duke of Roxburghe, making it the largest inhabited castle in Scotland. You can take a tour of the castle itself or walk the expansive grounds, which include a Victorian walled garden.

floorscastle.com

Abbotsford, Melrose

If you are arriving into the Scottish Borders along the Borders Railway from Edinburgh, then alight at Tweedbank and you can reach Sir Walter Scott’s cherished home on foot in just 20 minutes. Like a museum of the writer’s life and interests, it’s a chance to see his personal library, delve into his fascination with Scottish history and more whimsical pursuits, and hear the story of the house, whose stones, in Scott’s own words, “speak both of triumph and disaster.”

scottsabbotsford.com

Cringletie, Peebles

For a hotel with history in the Borders, try this castle hotel, built in 1860 by renowned architect David Bryce. In many ways the hotel is the epitome of the Scottish baronial castle hideaway, with Bryce’s trademark style of crow-stepped gables and small towers, an extravagantly grand dining room (right), and 28 acres of parkland and woodland to explore.

However, its tasting menu, which changes daily, helping to keep things interesting as well as sustainable with very little wastage, uses produce from either a single-source producer or the hotel’s kitchen garden, and really makes it stand out from others in a similar mould.

Taken over by New Zealand-born Bill Cross and his wife in 2019, who had already successfully run a Cotswolds hotel, the hotel is gradually going through a refurbishment programme – a new nature trail has recently been added and next up is the conservatory – which will both bring some welcome updates to the hotel and estate while being very sensitive to the history and aesthetic of it all. In keeping with its traditional setting, the hotel can organise piped dinners, shooting, fishing, and falconry, while guests are free to play croquet, boules, and pitch-and-putt on the lawns.

luxuryscotland.co.uk/hotels-experiences/cringletie

Mill shops & Distillery, Hawick

Birthplace of Scottish tweed, Hawick, the town where the rivers Tweed and Teviot meet, is where you can learn more about the evolution of the Borders wool and manufacturing industry, from its 18th-century origins through to being the go-to place for many couture designers working with tweed and cashmere today.

There are lots of mill shops where you can buy textiles to take home, from household names like Johnstons of Elgin (which as its name suggests began life in Moray but set up shop here in 1980); to fashionable Hawico , renowned for its vibrant colours; and Lovat Mill , which weaves Estate and Regimental Tweeds for more than 50 private estates and military regiments. While in the town, take a tour of the Borders Distillery, which is bringing whisky-making back to the region for the first time since 1837.

madeinhawick.com

Great Tapestry of Scotland, Galashiels

The brainchild of Scottish author Alexander McCall Smith, this huge tapestry tells not only of Scotland’s key moments in history but also the stories of everyday people, from mill workers to herring girls, on a canvas that carries many references to Scotland’s natural landscape.

McCall Smith worked closely with both Andrew Crummy, the artist behind the Prestonpans Tapestry, and historian and writer Alistair Moffat to piece together what and who should be included.

The result is an extraordinary homage to Scotland’s past and an embodiment of the nation’s pride, with panels created by 1,000 stitchers. It can now be viewed in its permanent home in Galashiels.

greattapestryofscotland.com

This is an extract, read the full future in the September/October issue of Scotland, available to buy here from 18 August. 

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Published six times a year, every issue of Scotland  showcases its stunning landscapes and natural  beauty, and delves deep into Scottish history. From mysterious clans and famous Scots (both past and present), to the hidden histories of the country’s greatest castles and houses, Scotland ‘s pages brim with the soul and secrets of the country. Scotland magazine captures the spirit of this wild and wonderful nation, explores its history and heritage and recommends great places to visit, so you feel at home here, wherever you are in the world.

Scottish Borders: Beautiful Towns & Villages to Explore

Beautiful Borders Towns & Villages

This post was written as part of a paid campaign with Scotland Starts Here

When it comes to popular tourism destinations, the Borders is Scotland’s greatest underdog . As the name suggests, the region claims part of the border between Scotland and England, a dramatic section of east coast between England and East Lothian, and lots of rolling rural landscapes , historic towns and pretty villages in between. 

While The Borders’ position on the map, south of Edinburgh, means that it is very easy to reach from the city , the region is still often overlooked by visitors who naturally gravitate towards the Highlands. My internal adventure compass usually sends me north or to the islands, but I am now craving a more regular change of direction.

My recent adventures to the Borders have reminded me what I’ve been missing and how much more I am yet to explore: the dramatic vistas and calming powers of the Berwickshire Coast, the unpretentious charm and elegance of the inland towns and villages, and the tranquil outdoor playground of hills, rivers and countryside.

Whether you’ve been inclined to bypass the Borders or you’re currently planning a visit, I hope this post will encourage and inspire you to discover these beautiful Borders towns and villages .

The Scottish Borders by Public Transport

Great news! All of the towns and villages that I’m recommending are accessible on public transport, thanks to the excellent bus and rail connections.

• Borders Railway – reopened in 2015 along the same historic line which closed in 1969, this scenic railway route provides a direct connection with Edinburgh and the Scottish Borders. I recommend travelling to Galashiels (52 minutes) and crossing the road over to the bus station for onward connections to Melrose, Jedburgh and Kelso. Book in advance on TheTrainLine app for mobile eTickets or purchase set fare tickets at the station on the day.
• Borders Buses – this excellent local bus service is frequent and reliable, covering a wide network of towns and villages in the Borders. The buses accept contactless card payments or you can download the app. to plan your journey and purchase tickets in advance.
• LNER – for the Berwickshire Coast, take the LNER service towards London and get off in Berwick Upon Tweed for the short bus journey back across the border into Scotland. Again, plan your journey and buy tickets on TheTrainLine app. From May 2022 (all going to plan) a new station in the Borders village of Reston will be opening, which should provide better connections to the coast.

Borders Towns and Villages: Travel Inspiration

Melrose is a small town with bundles of charm and stories to tell; from the Roman Empire which occupied the area nearby, to the ruined 12 th century abbey: the first Cistercian abbey in Scotland. The sport of Rugby Sevens was born in Melrose, founded by a local butcher and rugby player, Ned Haig in 1883.

The town is picturesquely positioned at the foot of the Eildon Hills and has the best quality and selection of independent retailers that I’ve discovered in any destination on my Scottish travels.

Top things to do in Melrose

HIKE: summit all three Eildon Hills following this route or if you’re short on time, go for the steep but relatively quick and mega-rewarding Eildon Hill North.

SHOP: the independent retailers Country Kitchen Deli , Abbey Fine Wines , Love Scottish , Ticketty Boo and The Reading Room .

VISIT: Trimonium Museum to learn about the vast Roman fort excavated nearby and Melrose Abbey , where the heart of Robert the Bruce was laid to rest.

EAT: perfect porridge and coffee at Apples for Jam and Burts Hotel – amazing local produce and cosy, friendly vibes.

Public transport to Melrose

• Take the train from Edinburgh to Galashiels then the bus to Melrose.
• Melrose has direct bus connections to Jedburgh, Duns and Kelso.

Just 10-miles north of the border, Jedburgh has seen its fair share of conflict between the two countries over the centuries, from ruthless raids to full-blown battles. Today, it is a peaceful wee pocket of the Borders with lovely shops, cafes and riverside walks.

Jedburgh is often considered a pretty pitstop for those travelling between Scotland and England, but there is a surprisingly large number of significant historic attractions packed into the compact town centre, so a flying visit simply won’t suffice.

Top things to do in Jedburgh

VISIT: the 19 th century Jedburgh Castle Jail and Museum , the stunning Jedburgh Abbey and Mary Queen of Scots Visitor Centre for an insight into Mary’s colourful life and demise, told through various displays in the historic house she stayed in during her visit to the town in 1566.

EAT: Naked Sourdough for incredible bakes , beautiful brunches and a lovely team of ladies .

WALK: Take a leisurely stroll along the River Jed or download the Paths Around Jedburgh booklet for more ideas.

Public transport to Jedburgh

• Take the train from Edinburgh to Galashiels and then the bus to Jedburgh.
• Jedburgh has direct bus connections to Melrose and Kelso.

Kelso is a historic market town with a pleasant buzz and local feel. The impressive square is said to be the largest in Scotland. The old bull ring, where cattle were tethered on market days, is still outlined in the cobbles. The town’s welcoming shops, cafes and bakeries are dotted in and around the square.

A short wander reveals the towering remains of Kelso Abbey and the five-arch Kelso Bridge across the River Tweed with views of Floors Castle in the distance.

Top things to do in Kelso

SHOP: for independent gifts at The Mole House , owned by talented maker and rally co-driver Claire Mole, and 20 Storey a gorgeous, vibrant bookshop: both have adorable resident dogs to top it off!

EAT: Cream Chimneys for a lovely lunch and coffee overlooking the square, and the iconic Cross Keys Hotel for hearty meals: go on a Thursday to hear a local folk music group playing. I loved The Cobbles for its varied, modern menu and outstanding ice-cream from sister business Becattelli Artisan Gelato next door.

EXPERIENCE: the comical cuteness of the Beirhope Alpacas on an Alpaca Trek in the scenic countryside with the legend that is Lynne: Chris at Howman Taxi will get you there from Kelso.

Public transport to Kelso

• Take the train from Edinburgh to Galashiels and then the bus to Kelso.
• Kelso has direct bus connections to Lauder and Melrose.

Lauder is a former Royal Burgh with a long, medieval High Street and an understated elegance. The town sits within close reach of the Lammermuir Hills and is one of the stops on the Southern Upland Way , a long-distance walking route from Portpatrick on the west coast to Cockburnspath on the east.

Top things to do in Lauder

VISIT: experience the enchanting opulence of Thirlestane Castle , which has been a family home since the 16 th century. I recommend booking a guided tour with Fiona Jackson through the website.

EAT: Scottish produce in the warm and inviting 18 th century coaching inn, The Black Bull Inn . I’d like to stay here on my next visit!

WALK: this short, circular walk from Burn Mill joins part of the Southern Upland Way .

Public transport to Lauder

• Lauder has direct bus connections to Edinburgh and Kelso.

Duns is a small market town with a big claim to fame. Formula One legend and World Champion Jim Clark grew up on a farm near Duns, and though the sport sadly claimed his life aged just 32, he has left a strong legacy in the town and the wider area. The quaint Market Square is a reminder of times gone by, when the weekly markets were swarming with people and livestock.

Top things to do in Duns

CLIMB : Duns Law – a short and easy walk with lovely views, passing the remnants of an Iron Age hill fort and a more recent addition from the 17 th century.

VISIT: Jim Clark Motorsport Museum – learn all about Jim Clark in this modern new museum dedicated to his life and career. The displays include racing cars, trophies, fantastic photographs and audio recordings with personal stories told by the people who knew him.

EAT: Jim Clark Bistro – both the museum and the bistro are managed by the Jim Clark Trust , a charity which aims to educate and celebrate the story of Jim Clark. Expect local produce, comfort food and home baking; the bistro is also open for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.

Public Transport to Duns

• Take the train from Edinburgh to Berwick Upon Tweed and then the bus to Duns.
• Visit on a day trip from Eyemouth on the direct Borders Buses service.
• There are also direct buses from Melrose.

For a completely different experience to the in-land towns, venture from countryside to coast. Eyemouth is a historic fishing town on the Berwickshire Coast, just 5-miles north of the border. Once a notorious hotspot for smuggling spirits, tea and other illicit goods, Eyemouth has an unusual narrow harbour area, a popular beach, and stunningly windswept coastal walks with hidden coves.

On sunny days, visitors flock to the town for fish & chips and ice-cream by the beach. Soak up the seaside vibes and look out for giant-puppy-like seals in the harbour,  hungry for fresh fish!

TOP THINGS TO DO IN EYEMOUTH

VISIT: Gungreens House , a grand home built by John Nisbet, a local merchant and closet smuggler; the house has a hidden tea chute and spaces between the floors to conceal contraband. The house sustained serious damage during Storm Arwen, therefore only the cellars are accessible at the moment. The full attraction should reopen in June 2022.

WALK: Follow in the footsteps of the 18 th century smugglers on the Smugglers Trail route or follow the coast and clifftops in the other direction to Eyemouth Fort .

EAT: huge portionsof hearty scran in the quirky, traditional Contented Soul , Italian food in a modern setting at OBLO , Waterfront Café for breakfast rolls, and Giacopazzi’s for fish & chips and the best ice-cream.

Public transport to Eyemouth

• Take the LNER train from Edinburgh to Berwick Upon Tweed then the bus to Eyemouth.
• Eyemouth has direct bus connections to St Abbs and Duns.

This pretty little fishing village is twinned with the fictional ‘New Asgard’ after featuring as a filming location in Avengers Endgame : there is now official signage to declare their pairing! In another claim to fame, St Abbs recently went viral after appearing in scenes from the music video for Harry Styles’ ‘Adore You’ .

The clear waters around St Abbs are a mecca for scuba divers, and the small, picturesque harbour is dwarfed by the dizzying heights of the sea cliffs nearby.

Top things to do in St Abbs

EXPLORE: St Abbs Head National Nature Reserve , a special area of geological, natural, and historical significance with jaw-dropping coastal views and St Abbs Head Lighthouse perched above the sea.

EAT: Fresh lobster rolls/salad and fish chowder from Ebbcarrs Café ,and check out the friendly Old School Café for lunch, cake and coffee.

Public transport to St Abbs

• Take the LNER train from Edinburgh to Berwick Upon Tweed and then the bus to St Abbs.
• St Abbs is a short, direct bus journey away from Eyemouth.

Where to Stay in The Scottish Borders

Berwickshire coast: the ships quarters, eyemouth.

A beautifully restored historic guesthouse, right on the harbourside, and next door to The Ship Inn Bar & Restaurant . I stayed in the bright and spacious suite with a huge, sink-into corner sofa and views of passing boats in the harbour.

• For more information or to book, visit the website here

Borders Town: Parkside House, Kelso

Built by a corn merchant in 1897, this grand home is currently owned by a wonderful lady called Edythe who now runs it as a high-end B&B. Expect sumptuous, period drama-style rooms, an outstanding cooked breakfast, and excellent hospitality.

This post is sponsored by Scotland Starts Here . As always, all content, opinions & chaotic behaviour are my own.

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Ten fantastic places to visit in… the Borders

If you’re in the Scottish Borders, you are in an area that’s packed full of historic homes and places to visit.

Whether you love music, books, or large classical buildings, there’s definitely something for you.

We round up 10 great things to see, do and visit.

ROBERT SMAIL’S PRINTING WORKS

This fascinating museum in Innerleithen has a restored Victorian printworks where visitors can watch the forgotten art of hand-typesetting. Look at the old Victorian office, reconstructed water wheel and other historical objects.

FLOORS CASTLE

Home to the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Floors Castle, just outside Kelso, was built in 1721 and has welcomed over a million visitors to its magnificent interior and gardens since opening to the public in 1977.

MUSIC AT PAXTON

This well-established classical music festival runs each July at Paxton House, near Berwick-upon-Tweed. Each year it attracts some of the top performers, for a celebration of chamber music.

DAWYCK BOTANIC GARDENS

A waterfall and snowdrops at Dawyck botanic garden

Dawyck Botanic Garden, near Peebles, is one of the world’s finest arboreta. Features include the wonderful Azalea Terrace, the Swiss Bridge, Dynamo Pond and the Beech Walk. Dawyck has one of Scotland’s finest tree collections including some of Britain’s oldest and tallest trees, dating back to 1680.

BORDERS BOOK FESTIVAL

This annual event takes place in the wonderful gardens of Harmony House in Melrose. It features talks and readings from a host of leading UK and international authors, as well as children’s events.

HEART OF HAWICK

This fantastic £10m project is one of the most unique regeneration schemes in the Borders, which transformed empty buildings into a new cinema/theatre and café/bar and visitor centre, local archive hub and textile museum.

TRAQUAIR HOUSE

Traquair House, just outside Innerleithen, dates from 1107 and offers a lovely interior, extensive grounds, maze, craft workshops, restaurant and the Traquair House Brewery. The estate also hosts a number of festivals.

Abbotsford House

The magnificent home of Sir Walter Scott, near Melrose, sits on the banks of the Tweed amid the landscape that inspired his greatest works. The house has a fine collection of relics and weapons, and a library of 9,000 rare volumes.

COLDINGHAM BAY BEACH

This award-winning beach, three miles north of Eyemouth, is one of the best in the Borders. It won a prestigious Blue Flag in 2010. With lifeguards in the summer, rockpools for exploring, and lots of fi ne sand, it’s perfect for the kids.

MARCHMONT HOUSE

Marchmont House is an 18th century Palladian mansion near Greenlaw in the Scottish Borders. It was been chosen as the winner of the 2018 Historic Houses/Sotheby’s restoration award following an intensive six-year effort to convert it from a former care home into a sumptuous property which its owners hope will become a hub celebrating makers and creators.

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Mull of Galloway Lighthouse

© VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

7 Days in the South of Scotland

Spend seven days in the south of Scotland, and you'll enjoy a relaxing break with days spent exploring historic attractions and out amongst the wonderful countryside. Made up of Dumfries & Galloway and the Scottish Borders, there's plenty of things to do in southern Scotland. Follow this south of Scotland itinerary for great ideas on what to pick on your week-long break.

• Distance 150 Miles 240 km
• Transport Car
• Main theme Sightseeing

Day 1 Scottish Borders

Head south down the road from Edinburgh, or up from the north and across the border, and you'll soon be amongst the rolling hills and lush green beauty of the  Scottish Borders . For the next three days you're spoilt for choice in terms of where to stay - all of the main towns and villages are centrally located. So you can book your ideal accommodation in the Scottish Borders, and make day trips to see the adventures this region has to offer.

This first day sees you head east to the coast, to St Abbs and Eyemouth.

St Abb's Head National Nature Reserve St Abbs

St Abb's Head National Nature Reserve

Explore this coastal haven for birdwatchers, nature lovers and walkers. See thousands of seabirds and be awed by the dramatic cliffs overlooking crystal-clear waters.

• Pets Welcome
• Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
• Cafe or Restaurant

St Abbs Visitor Centre Eyemouth

The St Abbs Visitor Centre

St Abbs itself is a small but picturesque fishing village with an important landscape, supporting wildlife both above and below the waves. Situated in the old village hall, the visitor centre tells the story of St Abbs' past and present with a main exhibition, but will also fill you in on the wonders of the geology and wildlife of the area.

Don't miss the high-powered telescope for a closer look at the cliffs and wildlife, and the local photographs, artwork and crafts on display around the centre.

• On Public Transport Route

Eyemouth Rib Trip Eyemouth

Eyemouth Rib Trips

Complete your seaside trip with the third magical way of seeing this cliff-side landscape - heading out on a powerboat experience! Running from the nearby town of Eyemouth, the experienced skipper will take you around the cliffs and coves to see the seabirds and seals.

There's even a choice to suit your pace - the Fast Blast for those wanting the thrill of wind, spray and speed, and the Coastal Exploration, which is a more leisurely sea safari and scenic trip.

Once you're back on dry land, look out for a little van where you can pick up some seafood to feed the seals that bob around Eyemouth harbour!

Day 2 Melrose

Not only is this an area filled with history - it's an area which is lucky enough to still have many examples of that history, so you can experience it for yourself and get a good picture of what life was like hundreds of years ago.

Today we'll visit one of four abbeys, and one of the many  historic houses in the Scottish Borders . There are plenty of other houses well worth a visit, either on this trip or your next.

Abbotsford House Melrose

Abbotsford's historic house exterior view.

Scotland has produced many great literary figures throughout the years, from Robert Burns to Val McDermid. No matter what your favourite genre is, there is lots of Scottish literature waiting to be added to your reading list. Today we're here to shine a spotlight on another of the country's finest writers, Sir Walter Scott.

Helping to capture the imaginations from readers around the world, step inside his home and see where it all began! You'll stumble across shelves upon shelves of books in his personal study, a grand library and lots of artefacts on display relating back to some of his most famous works. Outside, adults can enjoy the peaceful setting of the Regency Walled Gardens while the fun awaits at the Play Trail for younger visitors, complete with a wooden fortress and seven-metre tunnel slide.

• Hearing Loop
• Level Access
• Accessible toilets

Melrose Abbey Melrose

Melrose Abbey

We're very lucky to share with you wonderful stories of Scotland's historic past, and Melrose Abbey is no exception. Originally founded by David I in 1136 for the Cistercian Order, the abbey is believed to be the final resting place of Robert the Bruce's heart. Although largely destroyed by Richard II's English army in 1385, you can take an audio tour around the site and see its striking architectural details up close. A few significant features to spot include hobgoblins, cooks with ladles and even a bagpipe playing pig. The question is, can you find them all?

Why visit one Borders abbey when you can visit another three, you're on holiday after all! Discover the magnificent ruined abbeys of Dryburgh, Jedburgh and Kelso along  The Borders Abbeys Way . This 103 km walk takes you on a colourful journey through history dating back to the 12th century. Admire the picturesque scenery as you stop off to explore the pretty towns and villages or if you're looking to catch a bite, head to the River Tweed and River Teviot for a bit of morning fishing.

Scott's View St Boswells

Scott's View, overlooking the valley of the River Tweed and the Eildon Hill (centre), which is reputed to be one of the favourite views of Sir Walter

© Kenny Lam, VisitScotland. All rights reserved.

Enjoy the beautiful rolling Eildon Hills and twisitng River Tweed at this view made famous by Sir Walter Scott. 

Day 3 Peebles

Spend your last full day in the Scottish Borders with a visit to one of Scotland's finest gardens. Don't miss the chance to walk around the whole of the rest of the country either…!

Map of Scotland Peebles

The Great Polish Map of Scotland

In the grounds of Barony Castle lies a hidden treasure - a large physical map of Scotland, sculpted in concrete to over 50m. You can easily walk the length and breadth of Scotland, thanks to the work of a small group of Poles from a Krakow university, who created this in the summers of 1974 to 1979.

Plan your next trip to Scotland with this unique look at our country!

Dawyck Botanic Garden Stobo

Dawyck Botanic Garden

Retreat away from the crowds and enter the peaceful oasis that is Dawyck Botanic Garden. Home to a stunning collection of trees and shrubs, you'll be impressed by its vibrant bursts of colour all year round. When spring has sprung see swathes of snowdrops or immerse yourself in autumn colours, with hues of mustard yellows, glowing oranges, and vibrant reds to help you celebrate this picturesque season.

After exploring the garden, you'll have no doubt worked up an appetite. Stop off and soak in the views at the café. You'll find lots of tasty dishes to choose from and with their  Taste Our Best  accreditation, you can never go wrong on quality here.

Did you know? Dawyck Botanic Garden is just one of the many attractions that can be found along the  John Buchan Way . This 13-mile route which starts in Peebles and finishes in Broughton boasts stunning scenery and a wide variety of attractions. Highlights include Caidemuir Hill, Stobo Kirk, John Buchan Centre and Neidpath Castle.

If you're willing to explore more of Peebles on foot, check out these other fantastic  walking routes .

Day 4 Dumfries & Galloway

Heading out of the Scottish Borders and west into Dumfries & Galloway, there's plenty of sights still to see on the journey. For the first couple of days, you can stay in the east of this region - Dumfries being the largest town.

Grey Mare's Tail Innerleithen

Grey Mare's Tail Nature Reserve

As one of the UK's highest waterfalls, Grey Mare's Tail is well worth a stop. Park up at the car park, and just along a short path, you can stand and admire this tall, natural feature as the water pours down the hanging valley.

But if you're up for more of a challenge, why not follow the waterfall and see where it starts? On the other side from the first path is a second path. It's a steep climb up the side of the waterfall, following the cobbled path, but it soon flattens out and an hour after leaving the car park, you'll reach Loch Skeen, a beautiful glassy pool of mountain water.

Moffat Moffat

Moffat (Scottish Gaelic: Am Magh Fada, "The Long Plain") is a former burgh and spa town in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. Lying on the River Annan,

© VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins, all rights reserved.

Head to nearby Moffat for a short stroll around the town and something to eat in one of the cafes or restaurants. If you've got time to spare, Moffat is Europe's first Dark Sky Town, so as soon as the sun sets, you get a better view of the night sky thanks to the special street lighting.

Wanlockhead Wanlockhead

Eight small whitewashed cottages ascent the grassy hillside, each with a distinctive character and slate roof.

Take a drive further west into Dumfries & Galloway and you'll soon reach the dizzy heights of not just the south of Scotland, but all of Scotland! Wanlockhead is Scotland's highest village, which won't come as a surprise once you're there - in fact the drive up to the village is particularly stunning for the climb.

Once there, you can explore the Museum of Lead Mining to learn more about the local industry, or take a ride on the Leadhills and Wanlockhead Light Railway, Britain's highest adhesion railway, almost 1,500 feet above sea level.

Crawick Multiverse Sanquhar

Crawick Multiverse

© McAteer Photograph

Landscaping and the cosmos are not something you would think come hand-in-hand, but Crawick Multiverse is a unique art land. Designed by Charles Jencks, it features striking stone sculptures and represents ideas around space, astronomy and cosmology.

Day 5 Dumfries

Spend the day exploring this historic market town, which sits on the banks of the River Nith. Once home to Scotland's National Bard, Robert Burns, the town today is filled with a number of attractions, but is also a good base for exploring further.

Dumfries Museum and Camera Obscura Dumfries

Dumfries Museum And Camera Obscura

This 18th century windmill has a lot to offer you - from fossil footprints left by prehistoric reptiles to stone carvings by Scotland's first Christians, and home to the world's oldest Camera Obscura. Installed in 1836, this optical instrument gives panoramic views out over the region which you'll be exploring for the next couple of days.

Robert Burns Centre Dumfries

Robert Burns Centre

Situated in an 18th-century watermill by the banks of the River Nith in Dumfries, the centre tells the story of the Bard's extraordinary time in the market town.

Robert Burns spent the final years of his life in Dumfries and the centre's fantastic exhibition is illuminated by many original manuscripts and belongings of the Bard as well an impressive scale model of Dumfries in the 1790s and a haunting audio-visual presentation. In the evenings, the centre becomes a film theatre showing the best in contemporary cinema.

Moat Brae Dumfries

Moat Brae - National Centre for Children's Literature and Storytelling

This National Centre for Children’s Storytelling and Literature uncovers the world of stories and tales and is the birthplace of Peter Pan!

Step into Moat Brae House and the Neverland Discovery Garden where you and the wee ones can discover fascinating facts, get hands-on with interactive exhibits, enjoy inspiring play spaces, chase Peter Pan's shadow, or cosy up with a book in the sunlit library. Keep an eye open for free storytelling sessions, workshops, events and more.

Day 6 Galloway

We're off in search of the heart of the region to get lost amongst the trees once more in the Galloway Forest Park, the perfect outdoor spot, not just during the daylight, but at night time too.

Galloway Forest Park Newton Stewart

A view over the treetops to Loch Ken in the middle distance, with thickly forested mountains beyond.

© Dumfries & Galloway Council / Mark Geddes, all rights reserved.

The lush Galloway Forest Park is close to where Sam Heughan (Jamie from  Outlander ) grew up in Dumfries & Galloway. Head to  Clatteringshaws Visitor Centre  to take a refreshing stroll along the shore of Clatteringshaws Loch.

Close by, you can see wild creatures in natural surroundings at the  Red Deer Range  and the  Wild Goat Park .

Day 7 Heading West

Your last day in Dumfries & Galloway and you're in for one final treat. Make it to the far west coast of this bonnie region, and you'll feel like you're standing on the edge of the world - or at least, the furthest southerly (yes, southerly not westerly!) point in Scotland.

Mull of Galloway Experience Drummore

Step inside the towering, white lighthouse and climb the 115 steps to the top of the tower. Kids (and adults) will be amazed by the stunning views from their lofty vantage point – you can even see across the water to Cumbria and Ireland. Look out for swooping gannets, fluttering butterflies and leaping dolphins from the RSPB reserve which surrounds the lighthouse too!

Other great attractions in the Rhins of Galloway include Logan Botanic Garden, full of exotic plants, and Castle Kennedy Gardens, which often has ranger-led activities for kids.

RSPB Mull of Galloway Nature Reserve Stranraer

A pair of Gannets and two chicks.

© Andy Hay (rspb-images)

Find out more about the lucky wildlife which call this spot home! From the noisy guillemots, fulmars and kittiwakes in the spring, to the gannets, pied wagtails in the summer, terns, skuas and shearwaters in the autumn, and eider duck and shags in the winter.

Castle Kennedy Stranraer

Castle Kennedy & Gardens

Castle Kennedy featured in the stone circle and May Day procession scenes in The Wicker Man .

The beautiful gardens which surround this impressive ruined Castle Kennedy are the perfect place for a walk in the countryside or you could stop for a tasty snack in the tearoom.

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Lady’s 5 Days Out in the Scottish Borders

I’ve been spending a lot of time in Scotland lately. I’ve alluded to it here and there, but today I want to come clean. I’ve fallen in love, you see, and the man in question has a house in the Scottish Borders. We’re up there a lot, and in the past year I’ve discovered a part of the UK I never knew about. And it’s pretty amazing. If you want to know why, here are 5 days out in the Scottish Borders that will show you.

Days Out in the Scottish Borders

One of the best things about the Scottish Borders is that the region is under the radar as far as travel destinations go.

Despite being just south of Edinburgh , there are fewer crowds and more opportunities to experience a land full of fairy-tale castles, breathtaking coastline, and storybook villages.

Whether I’m exploring the ruins of an abbey or wading through heather at dawn to watch the sunrise over the moors, this part of Scotland reveals its magic everywhere I go.

The best days out in the Scottish Borders are: 1. Melrose Abbey 2. Abbotsford House 3. Kelso 4. St Abbs 5. Traquair House

Melrose Abbey

This is particularly true at Melrose Abbey. A former Cistercian monastery, what remains of the current building dates back to the 1300s and offers a wealth of treasures to explore.

The abbey was so famous in its day that Robert the Bruce chose it as the final resting place for his heart.

I recently took an audio tour of the premises, learning all about the mystical ruins and exploring the nooks and towers. Walking through architecture so old and beautiful was awe-inspiring.

Abbotsford House

Equally stunning is Abbotsford House. The former home of celebrated Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott, a visit makes for another of the best days out in the Scottish Borders.

With turrets galore and a walled garden to die for, the 19th-century house is straight out of a fairy tale.

Medieval halls and sumptuous libraries win me over on the inside, and grounds that extend to the River Tweed keep me active outdoors.

From formal gardens to wooded glades, Abbotsford House has as picturesque a setting as it does a structure.

As far as towns go, Kelso shows the Scottish Borders at its best. Home to another of the region’s ruined abbeys, it also has a pretty square that comes alive with delicious sights and aromas on market days.

And that’s to say nothing of the colorful shops and houses that line the streets. They’re some of the best in the area.

Kelso is also next door to Floors Castle, Scotland’s largest inhabited castle and one of the most impressive country houses in the United Kingdom. The grounds, gardens, and adjacent SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel are delightful to explore, too.

When it comes to coastline, one of the best days out in the Scottish Borders is St Abbs.

The fishing village of the same name is charming, but the real treat is walking along the coastal path to St Abb’s Head.

A nature reserve with wild rock formations and rugged shoreline, it shows off Scotland’s beauty from the wildlife to the lighthouse.

Traquair House

Traquair House is the oldest continually inhabited house in Scotland. A cross between a castle and a fortified mansion, this impressive home is a great place to dive into Scotland’s legendary past.

Dating back to 1107, Traquair House was initially a royal hunting lodge. Later the Stuarts of Traquair supported Mary Queen of Scots, who stayed in the house in 1566.

The interiors are a delight—I want to take the library home with me—and the grounds are brimming with gardens (and an impressive hedge maze!).

Places to Visit in Scottish Borders

These 5 highlights are just a handful of places I’ve come to love in this undiscovered region of Britain. There are more castles, towns, paths, and ruins to explore, and and I can’t wait to keep uncovering the best of the Borders.

If you get a chance to visit, I hope you fall in love with this part of Scotland as much as I have.

Have you been to this part of the UK? What are your favorite days out in the Scottish Borders?

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28 Comments on Lady’s 5 Days Out in the Scottish Borders

beautiful places!

We spent a few days in the area driving down the coast from Edinburgh to Seahouses in England and back up again via Kelso. We stayed at the divine Roxburghe Hotel and stopped off at St Abbs which is the prettiest of fishing villages. I’d love to revisit and take in some of the places you’ve mentioned which we missed.

That’s great! Sounds like a lovely trip. I hope you can go back again and see more.

Abbottsford House looks amazing. Thanks for highlighting this lesser known area of Scotland. I’m adding it to my travel list. And I’m thrilled you are in love!

You’re welcome! I hope you can visit sometime.

Having just stent a beautiful autumn picnic lunch with my wife and grandchild by the banks of the Teviot : upstream from the beautiful old railway viaduct at Roxburgh. iI agree with everything you have said about the beautiful Borders….but Then I would because I live here….All the Best. Petshop Pete

Nice! Great place to live.

Love this little guide to the Scottish Borders, there are some really beautiful places you’ve captured 🙂

Thanks! Glad you like it.

Wow! I haven’t visited this part of Scotland yet, but looking at all your wonderful photos has made me add it to my ever-growing list of places to visit. It truly is beautiful. 🙂

Yeah! Such a lovely part of the UK.

Very beautiful places ♥️ Where are the first three pictures taken? Super gorgeous landscape. ♥️♥️♥️

Yeah! The landscapes are beautiful. Those photos are from near Duns.

I absolutely adore those landscape images! I fell in love with the Highlands this summer, but I feel that I have to add the Scottish Borders to my travel-wish-list

Thanks! Yeah, the region is worth adding to your list.

Julie, this was such a fun escape to read along with the photos! I would print out this post and just go down the list visiting each place. Have a great upcoming week, my friend! 🙂

I’m glad you enjoyed it, Mike! I hope you have a great week, too.

I didn’t know about ANY of these places! They all look amazing, and gorgeous photos. Thanks for this x

You’re welcome!

Your photos are amazing, thanks for sharing them! And thanks for the info on what looks like an awesome area to travel that I’ve never been.

You’re welcome! It’s a great area to visit.

All of your posts regarding Scotland have me planning my first trip there. The only problem is there is WAY too much I want to see and I will only have ten days. The good news is tha should give me an excuse to return again.:) Thank you so much for stoking my desire to visit Scotland! Your pictures of it are unbelievable, simply amazing.

I’m glad you’ve been inspired! I hope you have an amazing time.

I would love to visit these places when I travel to Europe this coming July. Can you give a suggestion how to visit these places for a day or 2? Maybe just a normal transportation hopefully ?

It’s easiest to go by car, so I recommend that.

Hey LIL, I currently live in North London and I’m moving to a village near Duns for some early retirement in the late summer. Thank you for putting TSB on the map. I travelled the UK for 3 months trying to find a retirement nest and its The Scottish Borders that came in first place! GREAT BLOG & PICS – Cheers Sarah

Thanks! I’m glad you like them.

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The 14 best places to visit in Scotland

Nov 19, 2023 • 10 min read

Pack your camping gear (and your rainproofs) and head to some of the best places to visit in Scotland © Robert Coppinger / Shutterstock

Some of the best places to visit in Scotland will be instantly familiar to anyone who’s ever gazed at a whisky label or shortbread tin. Think dramatic peaks, lonely glens, lochs, tartan and haggis!

From spectacular Skye and historic Edinburgh to the rolling rivers of Speyside, Scotland’s big sights are as glorious as you’d imagine. But scratch the surface of this proud nation and you’ll find a varied and engrossing place, dotted with prehistoric villages, wild clubs, rich seafood and ruined abbeys.

So, where to start? Once you've decided on the best time for your visit , you need to decide on the best places to go while you're there. Here is our pick of the best destinations in Scotland to get you started.

1. Edinburgh

Best place for year-round entertainment

Scotland's capital may be famous for its festivals, but there's much more to the city than that. Edinburgh is a place of many moods: visit in spring to see the Old Town silhouetted against a blue sky and a yellow haze of daffodils, or on a chill winter’s day for fog snagging the spires of the Royal Mile, rain on the cobblestones, and a warm glow beckoning from the windows of local pubs. With a world-class modern art gallery , top museums , spooky historic sites and a majestic 12th-century castle , there's plenty to keep you entertained whatever the season.

Local tip: Start your visit to Edinburgh with a climb up Arthur's Seat , an extinct volcano for panoramic views over the city.

2. West Highland Way

Best place for long-distance hiking

The best way to really get inside Scotland's landscapes is to walk them. Here, peaks tower over lochs and sea cliffs gaze over the wind-whipped sea, but there are short woodland trails and charming strolls through valleys dusted with purple heather, too. Top of the wish list for many hikers is the 96-mile West Highland Way from Milngavie (near Glasgow) to Fort William , a weeklong walk through some of the country's finest scenery, finishing in the shadow of its highest peak, Ben Nevis.

If you don’t have the time or energy for a long-distance trek, it's possible to do just a day's hike along part of the trail. For example, you could walk the section from Rowardennan to Inversnaid, returning to your starting point using the Loch Lomond waterbus . Whichever section you take on, pack waterproofs and midge repellent. Rail lovers should note that sleeper trains run south from Fort William all the way to London, making for an easy exit after a walk.

Detour:  The 1,345m (4,413ft) summit of Ben Nevis is within reach of anyone who's reasonably fit: treat the peak with respect and your reward (weather permitting) will be magnificent views that can stretch as far as Northern Ireland.

3. North Coast 500

Best place for a scenic road trip

Breathtaking views abound in the Highlands , but the far north is where things become truly awe-inspiring. This is the best place in Scotland to explore by car (you can also cycle it), with some of the finest roadside scenery in Europe.

The North Coast 500 starts and ends in the likable city of Inverness , and loops past the lochs, sand dunes and golf courses of the east coast before taking in the remote cliffs and beaches of Cape Wrath, the rugged peaks of Assynt and Torridon’s desolate beauty. These sights, and the nooks of warm Highland hospitality found in the region's classic rural pubs and old crofting villages, make this an unforgettable weeklong tour.

4. Isle of Skye

Best place for photographers

In a country famous for stunning scenery, the Isle of Skye takes the top prize. From the craggy peaks of the Cuillins and the bizarre pinnacles of the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing to the spectacular sea cliffs of Neist Point, there's a photo opportunity awaiting you at almost every turn.

Skye is also one of the best places in Scotland to see golden eagles, and you’ll find convivial pubs and top seafood restaurants if you can tear your eyes from the natural world. Of course, all this tourist appeal makes Skye one of Scotland's most popular destinations. The crowds tend to stick to Portree , Dunvegan and Trotternish – it’s almost always possible to find peace and quiet in the island’s further-flung corners.

Planning tip:  Come prepared for changeable weather – when it’s fine, it’s very fine indeed, but all too often it isn’t.

5. Loch Lomond

Best place for a lakeside hike

Despite being less than an hour's drive from the bustle and sprawl of Glasgow, the bonnie braes (banks) of Loch Lomond – immortalized in the words of one of Scotland's best-known songs – comprise one of the most scenic parts of the country.

At the heart of Scotland's first national park , the loch begins as a broad, island-peppered lake in the south, its shores clothed in bluebell-sprinkled woods before narrowing in the north to a fjord-like trench ringed by mountains.

Detour: The summit of Ben Lomond (974m/3,031ft) is a popular climb – follow the well-maintained path for a 7-mile round-trip on the popular Tourist Route (allow around 5 hours).

Best place for live music and pub culture

Scotland's biggest city may lack Edinburgh's stunning setting, but it more than makes up for it with a barrelful of things to do and a warmth and energy that leaves every visitor impressed. Edgy and contemporary, it's a great spot to browse art galleries and museums , and to discover the works of local design hero Charles Rennie Mackintosh .

Glasgow’s infectious vitality is best sampled via its lively pubs and clubs, which host one of the world's great live music scenes.

Local tip:  Check out upcoming (mostly alt-rock) acts at the Barrowland  (crowned the UK's best music venue by Time Out magazine in 2023), a legendary former ballroom, or try the Sub Club for house and techno, the Clutha Bar for roots and rock, or Nice N Sleazy , a classic indie dive.

7. Stirling

Best place for castle fans

With an impregnable position atop a mighty wooded crag – the plug of an extinct volcano – Stirling ’s beautifully preserved Old Town is a treasure trove of historic buildings and cobbled streets winding up to the ramparts of Stirling Castle . This fortress has seen serious action – it was bombarded by the Warwolf, a giant 14th-century English siege engine, and was besieged during the 1745 Jacobite rising, as well as sending troops to the battle of Bannockburn (the decisive battle celebrated at the end of Braveheart ), just a few miles south.

Today, views that stretch to the Highlands, glorious tapestries and juicy history make this Scotland’s best castle – and a great family attraction.

Planning tip:  It's best to visit in the afternoon; many tourists come on day trips, so you may have the castle almost to yourself by 4pm.

8. St Andrews

Best place for golfers

Scotland invented the game of golf, and the city of  St Andrews is still revered as its spiritual home by hackers and champions alike. Links courses are the classic experience here – bumpy coastal affairs where the rough is heather and machair (coastal grass) and the main enemy is the wind, which can make a disaster of a promising round in an instant.

St Andrews, the historic Fife university town, is golf's headquarters , and an irresistible destination for anyone who loves the sport. And if you're not so keen, well, the city has impressive medieval ruins , stately university buildings , idyllic white sands and excellent guesthouses and restaurants .

9. Skara Brae

Best place for lovers of ancient history

When visiting ancient sites, it can sometimes be difficult to bridge the gulf of years or build a connection with the people that built them, but Scotland’s superb prehistoric remains have an immediate impact. Few places offer a better glimpse of everyday Stone Age life than Skara Brae in Orkney  with its carefully constructed fireplaces, beds, cupboards and water cisterns.

This Neolithic village – which, at 5,000 years is older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids of Giza – lay buried in coastal sand dunes for centuries. Even today, it can feel as though the inhabitants have just slipped out to go fishing and could return at any moment.

10. Glen Coe

Best place for clan history

Scotland's most famous glen combines two essential qualities of the Highlands: dramatic scenery and a deep sense of history. The peace and beauty of this valley today belies the fact that Glen Coe was the scene of a ruthless 17th-century massacre, when the local MacDonalds were murdered by soldiers of the Campbell clan.

Some of the glen's finest walks – to the Lost Valley, for example – follow the routes taken by fleeing clanspeople, many of whom perished in the snow.

Planning tip:  Start at the Glencoe Visitor Centre for more information on this beautiful place and its tragic history.

11. Perthshire

Best place to enjoy nature's bounty

In Perthshire , the heart of Scotland, picturesque towns bloom with flowers, distilleries emit tempting malty odors and sheep graze in impossibly green meadows. There's a feeling of the bounty of nature that no other place in Scotland can replicate.

Blue-gray lochs shimmer, reflecting the changing moods of the weather; centuries-old trees tower amid riverside forests; majestic glens scythe their way into remote wildernesses; and salmon leap upriver to the place of their birth.

12. Shetland Islands

Best place for birdwatching

Close enough to Norway to make Scottish nationality an ambiguous concept, the Shetland Islands are Britain’s most northerly outpost. The stirringly bleak setting – recognized as a precious UNESCO geopark – still feels uniquely Scottish though, with deep, naked glens flanked by steep hills, twinkling, sky-blue lochs and, of course, wandering sheep on the little-trafficked roads. It's the birdlife, however, that really draws visitors here.

From their first arrival in late spring to the raucous feeding frenzies of high summer, the vast colonies of gannets, guillemots, skua, puffins and kittiwakes at Hermaness , Noss, Sumburgh Head and Fair Isle provide some of Britain's most impressive birdwatching experiences.

Local tip: Shetland is one of the best places in the UK to spot orcas (and the Northern Lights).

13. Speyside

Best place for whisky tasting

Scotland's national drink is whisky – from the Gaelic uisge beatha , meaning “water of life” – and this fiery spirit has been distilled here for more than 500 years. More than 50 distilleries are in operation in Speyside, Scotland's most famous whisky area, famed for fruity, lightly spicy flavors (head over to Islay for peatier varieties).

Ask at the Whisky Museum about the Malt Whisky Trail, a self-guided tour around the local distilleries. If you just have time for one, the Balvenie Distillery is a good bet as it still uses a traditional malting floor – the smell is glorious!

Planning tip:  Dufftown lies at the heart of the region and is host to the biannual Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

14. The Scotland Borders

Best place for a country ramble

Many visitors to Scotland race up to Edinburgh and then hightail it to the Highlands, missing the Scottish Borders entirely . That's their loss. Once fought over by war chiefs and cattle thieves, the Borders region is rich in history and packed with good cycling and hiking routes.

There are grand country houses, too – Traquair House brews Jacobite Ale and has a concealed room that once hid Catholic priests – and a series of gorgeous ruined abbeys – Gothic Melrose Abbey is the best – plus birds and sea cliffs at St Abb’s Head. More active types can fish for salmon or thunder down the mountain bike trails at Glentress and Innerleithen.

This article was first published May 2021 and updated November 2023

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Things to do in the Scottish Borders

There are so many things to do in the Scottish Borders, it’s a wonder the area is still relatively undiscovered when it comes to tourism. Most visitors to Scotland head north, making a bee-line for the Highlands and Islands to snap up their cow selfies, or over to Edinburgh to gawp at the bagpipe buskers and try on kilts. 

And that’s a shame.

Yet we’ve been guilty of the same, and have lost count of the number of times we’ve driven north without a thought to the area we were passing through. That all changed this month when we spent a week exploring some of the best things to do in the Scottish Borders, and boy did we enjoy it. There were no crowds, bagpipes or selfie sticks. Instead we found a land rich in heritage, surrounded by gently undulating countryside that still retained that unique and gloriously hardy Scottish ‘edge’, despite being so close to England.

We could easily have spent a couple of weeks in the Scottish Borders, discovering ancient abbey ruins, visiting castles and stately homes, and eating all the haggis bonbons. I almost don’t want to tell you about it because I would hate for the the Borders to fall prey to mass tourism in the future (not that I’m going to single-handedly do that by writing this blog post!). However it’s a place that deserves to be shouted about. With so much to offer even the first-time visitor to Scotland, the Borders area is undoubtedly going to become the next big ‘discovery’ on the country’s tourism trail, and I’m thrilled that we were here near the beginning.

Best things to do in the Scottish Borders

This is quite a long post (because there are so many things to do in the Scottish Borders) so grab a cuppa and a handful of your favourite biscuits (I’m a chocolate hobnob girl myself) and read on.

1. Go back in time at Jedburgh Abbey

Hubbie and I love crumbling old ruins, and were in seventh heaven clambering around all the historic sites up here. Paradise for us doesn’t mean palm trees and sandy swathes. A bit of moss-covered ancient rock and tall towers with far-reaching views will do us just fine. There are 4 Borders Abbeys, all quite close together and easily seen in a day or two combined with other attractions. One of our favourite places to visit in the Scottish Borders has to be Jedburgh Abbey , still magnificent 9 centuries after its foundations were laid by David I. Despite being frequently targeted by armies from across the border, Jedburgh Abbey remains impressively in tact, and worthy of any Instagram feed if that’s your thing. There’s also an aromatic herb garden, small visitor centre and stone display to explore.

Top Tip: at the west end of the nave there’s a tiny spiral staircase which leads up to a balcony on the first floor giving superb views of the entire building.

2. Release your inner literary geek at Abbotsford House

Most Brits will have heard of Sir Walter Scott. He’s the chap who famously wrote Ivanhoe and Rob Roy , and was one of the most popular 19th Century writers in Britain. Growing up in Edinburgh and the Scottish Borders, Scott set many of his ballads, poems and novels in the local area, the success of which allowed him to build a magnificent estate on the banks of the River Tweed which further added to his creative inspiration.

Abbotsford House  is open to visitors and one of the most popular things to do in the Scottish Borders. It’s well worth a visit, even if literature isn’t really your cup of tea. The library is simply stunning, and it’s the sort of place that will have you coming away wanting to redesign your own home. Even if you don’t have 120 acres to play with.

Top Tip:  there are 2 different audio guides available, one which is factual, and one which is narrated by an actor (complete with lilting Scottish accent) pretending to be Scott himself showing you around his house. We tried them both (typically Hubbie made me take the theatrical version) but on balance preferred the factual one as it was sometimes difficult to sift through the drama and actually understand what the rooms were all about on the other guide. Plus there were dogs barking for effect on mine, which is never a good idea. I don’t do dogs.

3. Contemplate life at Scotts View

Scotts View is really easy to get to by car. Just take the B6404 between St Boswells and Kelso then turn onto the smaller B6356. The viewpoint is just a few miles along this road and offers one of the best, and most famous, panoramas in the Scottish Borders. Overlooking the River Tweed and the iconic Eildon Hills, this was apparently a favourite spot of Sir Walter Scott to come and contemplate life and look for inspiration for his novels. It’s a great place for a picnic on a sunny day, which I’m assured does sometimes occur in Scotland!

Top Tip:  just before you get to Scotts View there’s a tiny car park and a short walk which leads to an enormous William Wallace Monument. It also makes sense to combine a visit to Scotts View with Dryburgh Abbey (no. 12 below!), which is just down the road.

4. Be a warrior for the day by trying Tomahawk Throwing

Visiting the Scottish Borders isn’t just about heritage and good views. It’s also about having fun, and there was one activity which topped this list with ease. Tomahawk throwing! You know, just your average day out, with added axes. I was a little apprehensive before we arrived, but not because I was scared of the weapons. I just knew I’d be useless whilst Hubbie would be flinging things left, right and centre, and hitting the target every time.

That’s pretty much how it happened.

Yet instead of feeling stupid, I absolutely loved it and hadn’t had that much fun in ages. Tutor Tracy from the Roxburghe Shooting School expertly put us through our paces in the beautiful grounds of the Roxburghe Hotel and Golf Course near Kelso (where we later had afternoon tea). She had patience and enthusiasm in equal measures and before long even I was hitting the reds. So proud of myself and it definitely, almost certainly, well hopefully, wasn’t down to just a bit of luck.

We used two types of axe. The smaller girlie ones were called ‘angels’ and in theory should have been easier to strike with seeing as they had 4 points. However they required a lot of power behind the throw because they were pretty light, and I found the action more natural with the heavier axes. Hubbie of course picked it up almost immediately, which is reassuring should we ever have to defend ourselves from other tomahawk wielding warriors.

Hands down the best thing we did in the Scottish Borders!

Top Tip: the shooting school also offers a range of other country sports such as archery, clay pigeon shooting and fly fishing, all your quintessential Scottish pursuits!

5. Indulge in Afternoon Tea

We’re huge fans of afternoon tea (because after all, who doesn’t love cake!), and never miss an opportunity to indulge when we’re on holiday. There are lots of establishments across the Scottish Borders who offer this quintessential mid-afternoon experience, but we decided to try the Roxburghe Hotel near Kelso since it had roaring log fires and a few yummy local twists. It was also where we did the tomahawk throwing, and thought the two would work well together. They did!

Afternoon tea at the Roxburghe Hotel came with all the usual traditional morsels, but additionally there was Scottish salmon mousse and haggis bonbons. Yum. Being March it was very quiet and we had the drawing room all to ourselves, so we settled down by the fire and tucked in. It was the perfect end to a perfect day. It was actually one of the heartiest afternoon teas we’d ever eaten, and thankfully they gave us a ‘doggy bag’ to take home everything we couldn’t finish

Top Tip: combine your afternoon tea with a session at the shooting school for a truly memorable day out in the Scottish Borders. Or if you’re into golf, head over to the Roxburghe Golf course for a few rounds.

6. Go in search of Robert the Bruce’s heart at Melrose Abbey

Another abbey, this time below the Eildon Hills in the pretty town of Melrose. Probably the most famous ruin in all of Scotland, it was once loved by Robert the Bruce himself, and the chapter house was chosen as the final resting place for his heart. As with all the Border Abbeys, Melrose was subjected to attacks by the English during the Middle Ages yet the ruins today still give a good idea of what life would have been like for the monks who lived here until 1590. To see a fascinating collection of medieval artefacts which were found in the cloister at Melrose Abbey head over to the Commendator’s House Museum which is just outside the abbey grounds.

Most people consider Melrose Abbey one of the top things to do in the Scottish Borders, but we have to admit we preferred Jedburgh. However the views here at Melrose are really superb so make sure you climb to the top of the bell tower for a gorgeous panorama out across the surrounding countryside. 

Top Tip: keep an eye out for the famous bagpipe-playing pig gargoyle!

7. Sleep in a Castle

I’d had my eye on Dalhousie Castle for years, and visiting the Scottish Borders seemed the ideal time to finally check it out. I was worried we’d be disappointed, thanks to the weight of expectation that had built up over the last decade, but thankfully that wasn’t the case. Dalhousie Castle and Aqueous Spa (to give it it’s full title!) is on the banks of the River Esk, just 8 miles south of Edinburgh, and famous for being the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland. Only a little fearful of ghosts in a place that has survived war and intrigue, we figured that somewhere with a guest list that has included Edward I, Queen Victoria and of course our friend Sir Walter Scott, would be worth the risk. Instead of apparitions we found indulgent suites and world-class dining, all without the usual whiff of pretension that so often comes with such a place.

Oliver Cromwell used the castle as a base from which to invade Scotland during the Civil War, and being a bit of a 17th century history nerd I was delighted to find we’d be sleeping in the Cromwell Room with it’s modern 4-poster bed and seductive lighting. But perhaps the best bit was the Dungeon Restaurant, complete with candlelight, suits of armour and food that more than lived up to its reputation.

Top tip: if you want to eat in the dungeon restaurant make sure you book ahead as it’s understandably very popular.

Check availability for Dalhousie Castle

8. Try your hand at the ancient sport of Falconry

Falconry isn’t only a sport, it’s also an art and part of Scotland’s ancient heritage. Historically, hawking was a past-time usually undertaken by the nobility, but today anyone can have a go and it’s one of the most popular things to do in the Scottish Borders. We booked a session with Falconry Scotland who are based in the grounds of Dalhousie Castle up near Edinburgh. It was our first time trying falconry, so we opted for the 45 minute Raptor Experience where we flew a Harris Hawk called Iona in the grounds in front of the castle, and also got to hold a lovely Eagle that made me realise I need to get to the gym more. She was very heavy on the arm! Hubbie of course was a natural.

It was a lot of fun, and definitely something we’d do again, but we did feel it was rather expensive. It cost £40 per person for a group session, for what was essentially a bit of a talk (albeit very interesting!) and the chance to have a bird land on our arms about 6 times each. We had been hoping to walk through the castle grounds with the bird swooping down from all directions, but actually we were just standing a few metres away from the bird enclosure, with the hawk using the same couple of trees from which to approach us. Perhaps we’ve seen too many nature programmes and had set our expectations too high. Having said that, if you can afford it I do recommend giving it a go. It’s definitely one of those iconic Scottish Borders experiences that isn’t something you’ll forget in a hurry.

Top Tip : Falconry at Dalhousie Castle is by appointment only, so don’t just turn up hoping for a session, make sure you book in advance.

9. Explore ancient Peel Towers

The Scottish Borders are peppered with medieval peel towers, dating back to the days when families and clans had to protect themselves from marauding cattle raiders. The ground here was never suitable for arable farming so the people who resided here depended on raising livestock which was the currency of these lawless lands, and perhaps understandably many inhabitants turned to cattle rustling in order to survive. The peel towers were built both as strongholds for wealthier families and to protect their most prized livestock. Today many of these peel towers are still standing. Some have been restored as historical places of interest, some are crumbling ruins that just add to the romance of the region, whilst others have been fully renovated and turned into houses or tourist accommodation.

One of the most accessible peel towers to visit is Smailholm , perched on a rocky crag half way between Melrose and Kelso. The minor road is rough and muddy in places as it crosses through farmland, but it’s not a problem in a normal car. There’s a short steep climb up to the tower (which only takes 5 minutes) and during the summer months it’s possible to look inside. We visited during winter so made do with the rather spectacular views from outside.

Top tip: you might want to bring sturdy hiking shoes or even wellies if it’s been raining, it was quite boggy when we were there in March.

Another popular peel tower is the brilliantly named Fatlips Castle , which we didn’t have time to explore but having seen it from the road have put it at the top of our list for next time. You can pick up the key from the garage in Denholm and have a look inside once you’ve climbed up the hill. Definitely a mini adventure worth considering.

10. Solve the Da Vinci Code at Rosslyn Chapel

If you’ve ever read Dan Brown’s book ‘The Da Vinci Code’ you’ll know all about the Rosslyn Chapel . Built in 1446 as a place of worship, the chapel is still used today for services, as well as being a popular visitor attraction in the Edinburgh area. Guides do information talks every hour inside the chapel, which are well worth listening to as there is just so much to take in. Nearly everything you come across has an intriguing story behind it, with or without the influence of Tom Hanks!

Top tip: photography isn’t allowed inside the chapel but you can snap away to your hearts content in the grounds outside.

11. Stay in a Peel Tower

Whilst visiting the Scottish Borders we also stayed at Aikwood Tower , a stunning 500 year old peel tower which is now a luxury self-catering hideaway in the Ettrick Valley. The tower is little changed since its days as a stronghold, although the interior is rather more luxurious than it would have been in the 16th century. This peel tower is an astonishing combination of contemporary elegance and medieval memory, with opulent bed chambers and roll top baths alongside a spiral stone staircase and a great hall complete with ancient fireplace and lofty ceilings. It’s the perfect base for a group of friends or family to experience all the best things to do in the Scottish Borders.

READ THIS: A review of our stay at Aikwood Tower

If you’re visiting Scotland with your family, or having a group celebration, there are plenty of quirky and unique houses to rent which make great bases for exploring this incredible part of the country too. We’re planning on bringing the relatives up here next year to celebrate a special birthday, and can’t wait to show them what we’ve discovered. 

12. Walk in the footsteps of monks at Dryburgh Abbey

Although there are 4 abbeys in the Scottish Borders, we decided to just visit 3, because you can perhaps have too much of a good thing after all. Our third was Dryburgh Abbey , and we actually preferred it to Melrose, which although pretty impressive structurally, was in a town. Dryburgh Abbey has to be one of the most peaceful places we’ve ever explored, and one of our favourite things to do in the Scottish Borders. Hidden away down on the banks of the River Tweed, it exists in a quietly secluded little world of its own, with just the spirits of medieval monks and the local wildlife for company.

What sets Dryburgh Abbey apart as one of the most fascinating places to visit in the Scottish Borders is the chapter house and monastic quarters which are remarkably complete. You can even see the paintwork inside which dates back to when the abbey was first built. This is also where Sir Walter Scott is buried, a fitting place for one who loved the area so much.

Top tip: take a walk down to the river below the abbey and see if you can spot an otter. They’re quite common here and we spent a happy half hour watching one playing in the water. Magical.

13. Blow the cobwebs away at Tantallon Castle

Over on the coast between North Berwick and Edinburgh, Tantallon Castle is the stuff of fairytales. Perched dramatically on the edge of some rather foreboding looking cliffs, Tantallon was the stronghold of the powerful Douglas family, who were often at odds with the Crown. Overlooking Bass Rock (famous for its gannet colony), the castle was put under siege by James IV and James V, but it wasn’t until Oliver Cromwell invaded in 1651 that the castle was finally destroyed. What remains today is a haunting reminder of the unsettled times the Scottish Borders have seen over the centuries.

It was a grey drizzly day when we visited and I was a bit gutted not to snap that perfect blue sky shot, but actually the weather just added to the moody atmosphere and made the experience all the more embracing.  

Top tip: this is another place that gets rather muddy in wet weather and since the castle is a short walk from the car park it’s best not to come in your high heels.

14. Pretend to be posh at Floors Castle

A lot of the bigger attractions in the Scottish Borders are closed to visitors over the winter, which is a real shame for those of us who love travelling outside of the main season. Thankfully there was still plenty for us to see, but unfortunately Floors Castle wasn’t one of them. Famed for being Scotland’s largest inhabited castle and built in the 18th century for the 1st Duke of Roxburghe, it’s one of the main attractions in the Scottish Borders and a place we hope to visit on our next trip. Still a family home, Floors Castle boasts a splendid collection of grand rooms, tapestries and fine art, and the views of the River Tweed and Cheviot Hills are stunning. The grounds are gorgeous and ideal for an afternoon woodland or riverside stroll before popping into the terrace cafe for a slice of cake.

15. Explore the priest holes at Traquair House and Brewery

We’re not massive fans of stately homes, but Traquair House definitely deserves a couple of hours of your time. It’s the oldest inhabited house in Scotland and back in ye olde times was a pleasure park for Scottish royalty, as well as being a refuge for Catholic priests escaping persecution. The Traquair Stuart family were prominent supporters of the Jacobite cause, and Mary Queen of Scots. Today the house is little changed and open to the public, and has a superb collection of relics and letters from the past. The grounds and woodlands are idyllic for a summer stroll, and there’s a cottage restaurant serving food throughout the day.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNMVvvmgjEk/?taken-by=traquairhouse

Top tip: There’s also an award-winning brewery at Traquair House, so if you’re into traditional Scottish ales, this is the place to go.

16. See the seabirds at St Abbs Head National Nature Reserve

Formed by volcanoes, St Abbs Head is the most famous landmark on the beautiful Berwickshire coastline, just north of the border with England. This dramatic headland with plunging cliffs, offshore stacks, carpets of wildflowers and crystal clear waters is home to a spectacular colony of seabirds and you can see them up close from several vantage points along the cliff-top. It’s a fantastic place for birdwatchers, hikers and natures lovers to explore, and feels much more wild and remote than it actually is.

17. Go ghost hunting at Hermitage Castle

Another site that doesn’t open over winter is the eerie and isolated ruin of the 14th century Hermitage Castle in Liddesdale near Hawick. You can however walk up to it, but if you want to explore inside it usually opens around Easter time. Hermitage Castle has a particularly intriguing history full of treason, murder and even romantic trysts, and is known as ‘the guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain’ thanks to its role in controlling the Anglo-Scottish border during the Middle Ages. On a less gruesome note, Mary Queen of Scots used to meet her lover, the 4th Earl of Bothwell, at Hermitage Castle, and Sir Walter Scott was also a fan of the site.

Top tip: even if the castle isn’t open during your visit, you can still enjoy a good view from the road.

For even more inspiration about things to do in the Scottish Borders, check out the Visit Scotland website to help plan your stay.

Where to stay in the Scottish Borders

One of the things we love about the Scottish Borders is that when it comes to accommodation there’s a lot of variety, from quirky luxurious properties with centuries of history behind them, to tasteful and friendly B&Bs and iconic hotels. Here are some of our top picks:

Historic Castles

Dalhousie Castle – it was such a treat staying in the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland, and despite its age the castle was incredibly luxurious inside. There are several different suites with 4-poster beds and a rather unique underground dungeon restaurant where you dine by candlelight beneath suits of armour.

Cringletie House – a beautiful 19th century country castle house with 28 acres of gardens that offers affordable luxury just 18 miles south of Edinburgh.

Quirky Luxury Retreats

Aikwood Tower – one of our favourite hideaways to date, Aikwood Tower is a Medieval peel tower just outside Selkirk perfect for special occasions, stag or hen parties, and friends and family get togethers.

Roulotte Retreat – quirky and romantic French-crafted gypsy caravans near the Eildon Hills in the heart of the Scottish Borders, featuring exotic interiors inspired from travels around the world.

Iconic Hotels

Roxburghe Hotel and Golf Course – this is where we had afternoon tea and did our tomahawk throwing. The hotel is a splendid old building filled with comfortable antique furniture, roaring log fires and a good dose of traditional Scottish decor.

Dryburgh Abbey Hotel – set on a tranquil and secluded 10 acre private estate right next to the beautiful Dryburgh Abbey and River Tweed, the Dryburgh Abbey Hotel has large bedrooms, a swimming pool and an enviable location.

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Bed and breakfasts.

Kingsmuir House – an award-winning luxurious guest house near Peebles with friendly hosts, scrummy Scottish breakfasts and a tasteful interior that nods to the traditional whilst keeping things comfortably modern. 

The Barn at the Coach House – just a 13 minute walk from Melrose Abbey, this cute B&B is well presented with ensuite rooms, a sun terrace and an excellent central location from which to explore the Scottish Borders.

Thanks to Visit Scotland for providing us with Media Passes to discover the best things to do in the Scottish Borders. All words and opinions remain our own, and we never accept complimentary entrances unless we’d have been prepared to pay for them ourselves. 

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Thank for your article, I was considering the Borders for a trip and this has encouraged me. Slightly taken aback at the room rate of the Aikwood Tower, more like Trump Tower! Oh well when my ship comes in…..

It’s not a ‘room rate’ at Aikwood, it’s for the entire castle, so if there are a few of you it’s actually pretty good considering what you’re getting. Couldn’t be further from Trump Tower if you tried 😉 The Borders are so beautiful and uncrowded, they’re really one of the best parts of Scotland to explore, so I hope you have a wonderful time whatever you get up to!

Wonderful post. I bought my boyfriend a spa day in Dalhousie Castle, with an afternoon tea on top. Wonderful visit. As is the case with afternoon tea, we left feeling satisfied but extremely full. If you’re in that area, a trip to Rosslyn chapel is a great addition too.

A day spa there sounds good, we’ll have to try that next time! We did visit Rosslyn a few years ago, great tip, will have to add it, thanks Andrew!

Stunning pics (worthy of watercolour paintings) of my favourite places in the Scottish Borders, Thank you for the re-visits and info on those visits still to come.

I may just have to dig out my watercolours again, though tend to be much better with the camera these days 🙂 Thanks for stopping by, glad it brought back some memories, such a stunning area with an intriguing history!

What a lovely article and some beautiful photographs of our amazing Scottish Borders. Next time you are in the area why not book a stay at Airhouses? 5 Star luxury with your own hot tub, stunning views of lots of animals to befriend.

Thanks Carol, you certainly live in a beautiful part of the world! And a hot tub is always a good idea 🙂

Oh boy, lots of things to do in Scotland that don’t involve wearing a kilt. I think the tomahawk throwing sounds like fun. But why do they call it ‘tomahawk’ in Scotland where you don’t have tomahawks? Couldn’t they have found a more local name for that. I’m sure Mel Gibson in Braveheart wasn’t calling his sword a “tomahawk’. Inquiring minds want to know 🙂

PS. I hate your new capta thing. I always get it wrong

It was actually Europeans who introduced the concept of a metal blade to the Native Americans (they used to use stone) which they then used on tomahawks, supposedly based on a Royal Navy blade! The little ‘angel’ axes were Scandinavian, but the Vikings were ‘ere once upon a time so I guess that makes sense. Personally I just think Tomahawk sounds more “Grrrrrr” than Axe. And whilst Mel may not be too shabby at yelling ‘freedom’ and doing moonies, I’m not sure he’s an authority on weaponry. Although he did have a tomahawk in The Patriot so who knows. 🙂 I hate the captcha too, trying to sort a new one!

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• Top 10 reasons to visit the Scottish Borders
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• Scottish Borders

By Angie Aspinall

There are many reasons to visit the Scottish Borders, but here are the top 10.

The short game

Rugby Sevens were created in Melrose and every year 12,000 fans pack into the Greenyards to watch the tournament that Ned Haig established in 1883. Melrose is fondly known as the Home of Sevens with teams arriving from across the world. The surrounding towns also host their own tournaments during spring, although on a slightly smaller scale.

Stretching the legs

Those beautiful rolling hills make for ideal treks into the country. From long-distance hikes like St Cuthbert’s Way, the Borders Abbeys Way or the Southern Upland Way to the gentler John Buchan Way, Craik Forest Tracks or the Glentress Trails , there’s a walk for everyone.

Glentress Forest

The abbey habit

Four wonderful 12th-century abbeys were built around the Scottish Borders – and all four remain. There’s a 65-mile path that links Jedburgh , Kelso , Dryburgh and Melrose abbeys, but it’s much easier to drive round them and enjoy the magnificent architecture.

Festival fever

Throughout the summer months, towns all across the Borders raise a glass or two to its traditions and war-torn past. The festivals and common ridings are unique to the Borders and often involve hundreds of mounted followers and day upon day of dinners and parties.

Wonderful wildlife

Few places outside the Scottish Highlands can boast such rich and diverse wildlife as the Borders. Ospreys and golden eagles will regularly fly overhead while otters, water voles and kingfishers have made their homes on our river banks. A day’s stroll can also be rewarded with sightings of red squirrels, roe deer and foxes.

We’re in fashion

The Scottish Borders has given the world such labels as Pringle and Lyle & Scott, yet they are only the tip of the knitwear iceberg. Despite a decline in the industry over the past four or five decades, there are still dozens of working textiles mills all over the region. Most offer great tours with shelves of bargains in the outlet shops.

A river runs through it

The Tweed may be Scotland’s second longest river, but its real claim to fame is its fantastic salmon fishing. Anglers from all over the world descend on the region to cast for the spring and autumn runs of fish. Celebrities like the Fonz (Henry Winkler), Ian Botham, Jack Charlton and Chris Tarrant can often be found mid-stream of this world-famous river.

Making a splash

The 32 miles of Berwickshire coastline has become a surfer’s and diver’s paradise over the past few decades. St Abbs offers some of the best diving in the country while Coldingham Bay is rapidly emerging as the surfing capital of Scotland.

Coldingham Bay

Book into Abbotsford

Sir Walter Scott was the JK Rowling of his day and enjoyed worldwide success with his novels. Almost 200 years on you can enjoy a tour of his Conundrum Castle at Abbotsford , near Galashiels, to see what all the fuss was about.

We’re reinventing ourselves

Borders towns like Hawick are reinvigorating their industrial heritage. In this former capital of Scotland’s textile industry, start-up businesses are breathing new life into wonderful old buildings. A great example is the new Borders Distillery , the first in the region since 1837 – an award-winning riverbank conversion of the former Hawick Urban Electrical Company building.

Read more about the Scottish Borders

Image credits: ©ING Image; Stephen J Whitehorne/Scottish Borders Council; Vincent Van Zalinge/Unsplash; VisitScotland/David N Anderson/Ian Rutherford/Kenny Lam

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Hallucinations and no sleep: Jasmin Paris on her historic ultramarathon

In an exclusive interview, the first woman to complete the Barkley Marathons explains how she beat the 100-mile course

“I was so close to passing out,” says Jasmin Paris, as she relives the moment she became the first woman to complete the race widely seen as the most devilish, daunting, and toughest of them all. “I felt I was going to reach the finishing gate, or collapse right in front of it. There was a tunnel of roars on either side. But I couldn’t focus. It was all a bit blurry.”

Since 1989, more than 1,000 ultramarathoners have attempted the Barkley Marathons in Frozen Head State Park in Tennessee. But only 20 have ever finished the 100-mile course, which includes about 16,500 metres of elevation – the equivalent of climbing Everest twice – within the 60-hour time limit.

However on Friday, Paris, a 40-year-old senior veterinary lecturer at the University of Edinburgh, sprinted across the line after 59 hours, 58 minutes and 21 seconds – 99 seconds inside the cut-off. Before collapsing in a heap.

“It’s not the fact that it’s 100 miles that’s the problem – it’s about the terrain,” Paris tells the Guardian in her first interview since arriving back in the UK. “Immediately after we set off we went up a slope so steep that at times my foot would slide back down, and I would have to go again. There were a couple of places we were climbing on our bellies. And this year, there was also a new section that used to be used for hillside mining, it was all covered in brambles so our legs got slashed to pieces.”

There is no time for sleep either – save for a three-minute power nap before the last of the five loops – which unsurprisingly led to hallucinations. “I saw quite a lot of people in black macintoshes,” she says. “They were climbing the same hill as me, always a certain distance ahead. And it was bizarre, they all had a sinister foreboding feel to them.

“I always see animals in races like these too,” she adds. “There were trees that looked like a mountain lion, or a big dog, or pigs lying down, until I got closer.”

Paris had attempted the Barkley marathons twice before, but had never managed to do all five laps. However this time she was confident throughout, till a wobble right before the end. “When I got about eight minutes out, I suddenly thought I really might not do it,” she says. “I had about a kilometre to go but up a hill. I was so desperate to stop. But my mind was telling me: ‘If you don’t make this, you will have to do it all over again’.

“It’s the toughest thing I have ever done. Afterwards I just dropped. I needed to breathe for five minutes hard before I corrected because I’ve never been so oxygen deficient.”

Along the way she fuelled with pasta, porridge, rice pudding and her secret weapon – bananas. “Bananas are the one thing that really works for me when I’m doing these crazy long things,” she says. “I also tried to keep a mixture of savoury and sweet, including cheese and pickle sandwiches, pizza, frittata, Snickers and flapjacks. It gets really hard to eat, so you have to eat what you can.”

Paris’s success was the culmination of months of training every morning from 5am to 7.45am, before her two children were up and she started work. “The most I ran was 90 miles a week, but probably with the walking it was more like 120 or 130 miles,” she says. “In terms of practising for the ascent, I also did 11-12,000 metres some weeks from hill reps or the stair climber.

“I was also doing strength sessions as well, which were a big help,” she adds. “Most people probably don’t know, but I’ve got no anterior cruciate ligament in my left knee, because I tore it when I was 17 and never had reconstructive surgery. I know some medics who are quite surprised I can do so much off-road terrain running. But I’ve really strengthened my leg up and my knee is really great at the moment.”

This is the second time Paris has made global headlines, having become the first woman to win outright t he gruelling 268-mile Montane Spine Race , from Edale in the Peak District to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish borders, in 2019. So what compels her to continually probe the boundaries of the possible?

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“I still find it really exciting to push myself, especially when I don’t know whether I can do something,” she says. “It sounds a bit corny, but you also find out more about yourself, when you strip away all the stuff that makes life easier.

“In these races it is up to you to keep yourself fed, get water, and navigate the wilderness on your own, while doing tough climbs and descents. In these situations you also form relationships with other people that are impossible to do quickly in day to day life.”

Being alone also gives her valuable time to think. “I get a similar thrill, although not as extreme, from a week in the mountains,” she says. “It’s that feeling of being in the wilderness, having left behind civilisation, and getting a sense of perspective and calm.”

However Paris is uneasy at the thought of anyone hailing her as a superwoman. Instead, she just wants to inspire people to take up things they may have put aside.

“I hope maybe it encourages people to have some hobbies of their own when kids, work and life got in the way,” she says. “Because it has certainly been really good for my mental health.”

Paris reports she is already recovering from her extraordinary feat. “It is amazing what a night of good sleep can do,” she says. And yes, her next event, the Scottish Island Peaks race, a fell running and sailing race in May, is already inked in the diary.

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