1996 chevy truck cruise control module

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ACDelco 12575408 GM Original Equipment Cruise Control Module

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Genuine Chevrolet C1500 Cruise Control Module

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3 Cruise Control Modules found

Chevrolet C1500 Cruise Control Asm

• Other Name : MODULE, Cruise Control; Control Module, Cruise Unit, Module
• Replaces : 25074973, 25074400
• 1988-1993 Chevrolet C1500 | C1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, C1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX | 6 Cyl 4.3L, 8 Cyl 5.0L, 8 Cyl 5.7L, 8 Cyl 6.2L Diesel, 8 Cyl 7.4L

Chevrolet C1500 Module,Cruise Control

• Replaces : 25111708, 25314414, 25163330, 25140760, 25169208
• 1995-1999 Chevrolet C1500 | C1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, C1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX | 6 Cyl 4.3L, 8 Cyl 5.0L, 8 Cyl 5.7L

Chevrolet C1500 Cruise Control Assembly

• 1994 Chevrolet C1500 | C1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, C1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, C1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX | 6 Cyl 4.3L, 8 Cyl 5.0L, 8 Cyl 5.7L

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1996 Chevy CK Pickup Cruise Control Components

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A guide to diagnosing cruise control problems on 96-97 Trucks

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A guide to diagnosing cruise control problems on 96-97 Trucks (This is a work in progress, I will add photos later if needed) I am writing this up after chasing my tail for almost 2 weeks, fixing almost everything related to the speed control system. The previous owner said it had not worked in 10 years... He thought it was a fuse. If you have a different year of truck, this *Might* help, but I dont know. I know the wiring in 1996-1997 rams is the same when related to cruise. I would recommend also thumbing through the service manual, I found one here: Manuals. First, in order to get ANY power to ANYTHING in your cruise system you have to have the truck running, rev it to about 2k RPM, then the PCM powers circuit V32 (Yellow with red stripe) which provides power the the switches, while also sending through the brake switch to the servo. ---------------------------------------------- Step 1, Clock Spring: Does your cruise control light come on? If yes, you can most likely skip this step! The Clock Spring is a ribbon cable that allows things to stay connected when you rotate the steering wheel from left to right. If not, does your horn work? (If not, it could also be as simple as a fuse) Does your Airbag light remain illuminated? If so, odds are its your clockspring. However, your clock spring can be bad and your horn still work, which happened to me. Cheapest I found a brand new one was $120, but I got mine from a pull a part lot out of a Ram 250 Van. The ones for 98-01 Rams are brand new $50, but require some splicing of the harness. Testing: Use a Torqx driver (Mine was T20) remove the three screws holding the lower collum cover in place, exposing a flat plug. Unplug it. The farthest most drivers side wire will be yellow with a red stripe. This is the wire that powers the switches. Now, remove the cruise buttons using a Phillips screw driver. Unplug them, see your little yellow wire with a red stripe? This wire is your friend. Now get out your trusty multi-meter. Your testing for a connection, not voltage, so use an ohms setting. Test connectivity between where the buttons plug in and the pins behind the steering wheel. Do you have a connection? If yes, test the rest of of the wires that come from the cruise buttons. If no, then your clock spring is bad. Congrats, you have found your problem! ---------------------------------------------- Step 2, Brake switch. Only move onto this if your cruise light is working. Do your brake lights work? This does NOT mean your switch is good. V32 (The yellow wire with a red stripe) connect to V30 (Dark Brown with Red) through the Brake Switch. With the brake peddle not pushed, electricity should be able to pass through. Check this with your trusty multi meter. Also, try lifting the peddle. This part can be re-adjusted, which might help. A brand new one is $10 and installs with no tools in about 5 mins. Just replace it and save a headache. ---------------------------------------------- Step 3, Vacuum. Do your heater controls not work? This most likely your issue! A lack of issue with heater controls DOES NOT mean your vacuum is fine. This is the most frequent problem that these cruise systems have. The vacuum line goes under the drivers side battery to the servo, where it gets corroded and begins to fail. Check your system for good vacuum. ---------------------------------------------- Wow, your clockspring is good, your brake light switch has been tested, and your vacuum is tight and awesome. Your cruise light comes on, but your set and acceleration buttons do absolutely nothing, or you start to set it and then it slowly looses speed. Move on to Step 4. ---------------------------------------------- Step 4, Cruise Servo: The last potential problem is the Servo. This is a bit more complex, because the part numbers are different now. According to the Dodge Dealer the old part number was 53009315, which they no longer have. They have replaced it with part number 4669979 which they want $150 for. They also told me that I will need a different wire harness, part number 3013979AB, which they want $50 for. Remove the servo, there are two nuts holding it to bracket, a tiny little pin holding the throttle cable to the servo, a vacuum line, and an electrical plug. Some say you have to pull the battery tray, I was able to remove the servo just after pulling the battery, leaving the tray in place. Pull it out, visually inspect it. Mine had a big hole in it. I can also tell you that the one in my 1993 ZJ Grand Cherokee is the exact same servo as the one in the Ram. ---------------------------------------------- Step 5, Fix a Surge Issue: Your truck has cruise control, but its funky and does not work right. Surges badly, ect. First, check the vacuum. If its good, then we have a fix for surging too! (Chrysler put out this informational bulletin, not me) If the vehicle operator **repeatedly** presses and releases the SET button with their foot off of the accelerator (a "lift foot set" to begin speed control operation), the vehicle may accelerate and exceed the desired set speed by up to 5 MPH (8 km/h) and then decelerate to less than the desired set speed before finally achieving the desired set speed. The speed control has an adaptive strategy (ability to learn) that compensates for vehicle-to-vehicle variations in speed control cable lengths. When the speed control is set with the vehicle operators foot off of the accelerator pedal, the speed control "thinks" there is excessive speed control cable slack and adapts (learns). If "lift foot sets" are continually used, the speed control overshoot/undershoot condition will develop. To "unlearn" the overshoot/undershoot condition, the vehicle operator has to press and release the SET button while maintaining the desired set speed with the accelerator pedal (not decelerating or accelerating), and then turn the speed control switch to the OFF position **(or press the CANCEL button, if equipped) after the speed control has been engaged for 10 seconds or longer.** This procedure must be performed approximately 10-15 times to completely unlearn the overshoot/undershoot condition. ---------------------------------------------- These trucks are almost 20 years old, if your cruise worked recently, you most likely have only one problem. If your truck is like mine, and has not had functional cruise for a decade, you should bet on more than one problem. If your experiencing the cruise trying to "Run away" and just keep reving, a slow drop in speed, or you bought a junkyard servo this video may be helpful to you.  

what if when you set cruise and it just keeps getting slower and slower some times it will set and some time you can click the it and it wont do anything ???  

Although I do not have any personal experiance with this problem, it sounds like a lack of vacuum to the servo. I think step one would be investing in a vacuum testing gauge. The other possibility is the servo failing. It is designed to control how much vacuum it vents and how much it maintains, if it is not able to properly limit the venting of the vacuum, then your cruise will not be able to maintain. On my truck, 12 hours after parking and shutting off the engine, the vacuum system is still tight and I will hear a hiss when I seperate any of the hoses. What steps have you taken so far to diagnose the problem?  

Nice write-up The Joe. I would say start with the servo first though. These are notorious for getting eaten up by the acid from the driver side battery. Nothing like putting a critical part under a battery. The good old Mopar Engineers must have been hard at work figuring out ways to cost us money with dumb ideas like this!  

One other thing to add only because it took me forever to figure it out. If anyone has done the relay mod to lock out overdrive on start up instead of manually locking it out with the switch this could also be your problem after I removed the relay it works as it should.  

Thanks Joe - step 5 is exactly what is happening to my 98 12v. Does anyone know if that "fix" applies to the 98 cruise as well?  

Added a video to the post that will help with people who want to refurbish a servo that is still intact but has some personality flaws, things like when the cruise trys to continue accelerating, or slowly decelerate. Check it out! I dont know if it does or doesnt, I have not spent enough time under the hood of any 98s. It *Should* since the fix is for the servo itself and works on many different cars and trucks that have had this save style servo.  

My cruise control works perfectly, EXCEPT, when I'm going down a hill. Granted, a decently steep grade. Once I crest the hill, everything works fine, until about another 100 yards, then my truck jerks pretty hard. It'll do this every 100 or so yards until im at the bottom. It really feels like the truck is cutting out, but i know thats not the case, because if the cruise is off, it just moseys on down the hill no problems. Is this the surging issue you were talking about? Or do I have something totally different going on?  

Thats an odd issue, I wish I had some helpful input, but that is new to me. The surging I talked about seemed to be more when you set the Cruise control and it would try and accelerate more than you wanted. Best of luck figuring it out, and if you get an answer, please share it with us in this thread.  

I have been having a problem with my cruise (1st gen, but I'm hoping someone else can come up with something I haven't) I can set the cruise, it will hold for a period of time, anywhere between 10 seconds and 100 miles. never know how long it will last. usually lesser time. I have tried replacing the brake light switch because the last trailer I pulled I could see the reflection of brake lights randomly flashing. didn't fix the cruise issue. I've checked the vacuum hose going to the cruise, good. I thought a bad relay, when a relay begins to go bad, it can over-heat and quit. I can not find a cruise control relay. I'm thinking a bad servo next? any suggestions please  

1998 TRUCK CRUISE ELECTRONICS DIAGNOSIS: The wiring is slightly different on these trucks. Cruise switch signal coming out of the clockspring should be red with a light green tracer. The ground is black with a light blue tracer. IMO, this should be the electronics test sequence if you cannot get your cruise light to turn on: 1.) Disconnect negative battery terminals and wait 2 minutes. Remove airbag with (2) 8mm bolts to expose cruise switch wiring. Remove switches with torx bit. Test switch continuity. Resistance values are as follows, +/- a few % should be acceptable: ON: 909 ohms SET: 6650 ohms RESUME/ACCEL: 15,400 ohms CANCEL: 0 (closed circuit) COAST: 2940 ohms If your ON ohms are something crazy like 450, you need a new switch. If switch values are ok proceed. 2.) Clockspring continuity. My horn worked, and airbag light was off, but my clockspring was still bad. Know for sure by checking continuity with multimeter. Take the column cover off and you will see where a flat rectanguler connector goes into the clockspring. Remove and test far right pin with the connector that clips into the buttons. Make sure to test both sides of the button connector, one is a ground that goes back through the middle pin in the rectangular connector. Check that as well. My clockspring had no continuity in the speed switch signal wire, had to replace. 3.) If clockspring and switches are good, check underneath the column for broken wires. On 98 it should be the red with green tracer and black with blue tracer. If wires are good, check connection at PCM. You also can replace the brake switch, however this does not turn the cruise light off, it just disengages the servo. 4.) If everything has checked out, continuity good everywhere and you've used dielectric grease on all the connectors, try looking into the neutral safety switch for manual trans and some sort of neutral switch for auto trans. It has been discussed that this is a possible component in the system that needs to be verified before the computer will turn cruise on. If the neutral switch is fine, you're probably looking at a bum PCM. Your life sucks.  

I am having a somewhat similar issue with my 98 12v. My problem is that my cruise maxs out a 55 mph and it just wont make any more. Doesnt seem to surge or anything just dead heads at 55. Any ideas or directions to go would help huge. Thank you!!!  

On that, I'd suspect a minor vacuum leak (either in the lines somewhere, or the actuator itself). The actuator is located under the drivers side battery and they're known to rust out, and 17 year old rubber hoses can get dried and cracked... I.E., I suspect everything is 'working' correctly (electrics are good, the controls are good, the ECU is good, the brake switch is good, etc), but the actuator doesn't have enough vacuum power due to a leak, to pull the fuel lever hard enough to get past 55. The vacuum system is (supposed to be) pretty well sealed. I can pop one of the hoses off 10 minutes after turning my truck off and there's still a vacuum in the lines (you can really noticeably hear a 'pop/suck' on disconnecting a line). If you crack a vacuum line and don't hear that noise, you've got a leak somewhere. Jim  

^cable adjustment/problem? Cruise drops out randomly or on bumps. ~ The brake switch is fine, but > switch bracket needs bent/adjusted > pedal is not returning enough or bushing worn. If it's bad it will affect TC lockup to, but that seems less sensitive.  

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Cruise Control Trouble Shooting ???????????

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I have a 1998 1/2 T pickup, 350v8. Anyone have any ideas on how to trouble shoot why my cruise control doesn't work. Pretty sure it's not fuses, or the brake switch. Thinking it might be the multi-functional turn signal switch on steering column, but I don't know how to test it?  

I am assuming that it does not work period - won't set and the cruise does not work at all. My manual says that the cruise will not work under the following scenarios: Vehicle speed is less than 25 mph. When the Park, Reverse, neutral, or ist gear is indicated by the park/neutral position switch. When an over/under charged battery condition exists. With low engine RPM With high engine RPM (fuel Cut off). My guess is that 1, 4 and 5 do not apply. So start with 2 and 3. If those are okay, then there is a cruise control system check. The problem with that system check is you start getting into very specific tools. I do not know how expensive these tools are but if you have access to them then I can give you the procedure as outlined in the factory authorized manual.  

Thanks Caddiac Your right, it doesnt work at all. I am a fairly decent shade tree, with access to most tools, even specialty tools. So if you could give me those trouble shooting procedures, I sure would appreciate it. Thanks very much!!!!!!!!  

Does the torque converter lock properly?  

The button on the multi control lever for the cruise control tends to fail alot. But I'd test the cruise control solenoid to make sure it works. It's a box on the firewall next to the brake booster, it's got a secondary throttle cable going to it, just unplug it, and give it power using a power probe. Also check the secondary cable on the throttle lever, there's a little plastic screw, tighten that, but not too tight, just about 2-3 mm of slack in the line, they sometimes become loose, and the cruise control wont work anymore.  

tinytanic1 said: Your right, it doesnt work at all. I am a fairly decent shade tree, with access to most tools, even specialty tools. So if you could give me those trouble shooting procedures, I sure would appreciate it. Thanks very much!!!!!!!! Click to expand...

Were you able to fix this issue?  

When I installed LED taillights my cruise went out due to lower resistance in the bulbs. A troubleshooting trick was to see if the cruise worked with the hazards on. Don't think this is your problem, but worth a shot...:neutral: Have you checked all your bulbs?  

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Caddiac said: I am assuming that it does not work period - won't set and the cruise does not work at all. My manual says that the cruise will not work under the following scenarios: Vehicle speed is less than 25 mph. When the Park, Reverse, neutral, or ist gear is indicated by the park/neutral position switch. When an over/under charged battery condition exists. With low engine RPM With high engine RPM (fuel Cut off). My guess is that 1, 4 and 5 do not apply. So start with 2 and 3. If those are okay, then there is a cruise control system check. The problem with that system check is you start getting into very specific tools. I do not know how expensive these tools are but if you have access to them then I can give you the procedure as outlined in the factory authorized manual. Click to expand...

aisfkhan533 said: Just change the Break light Switch , its mounted on the break paddle. it should fix your problem with cruise control. Click to expand...

Thanks for the welcome. I changed the brake switch. Did not fix my cruise control problem. Then problem must still fall back on the module being bad.  

I am having the same issue on 08 Sierra, I have replaced the brake light switch twice now. It works normally for awhile and then stops. If I kick the pedal a little bit it may or may not start working again. Is there any other fix for this? Could anything be wearing out down there that would cause it to think I am hitting the brakes all the time? Thanks in advance for any help. Tired of replacing the switches....  

The cruise control servo has a fabric tape connecting it to the accelerator cable. The tape has broken every 80-100,000 miles in my 1998 pickup and the cruise control can't work the accelerator. The servo is located under the hood on the fire wall near the driver's side front fender or just follow the accelerator cable to it. Test by checking the cable near the carburator, it will be loose if the tape is broken. Junk yards sell the whole assembly for $25 around here. You can expose the tape on the junk part by pulling the cable housing out of the servo, if it's frayed or stretched it's no good. The electronics on my truck are still good after 320,000 miles.  

I know this is an old thread but, here’s my situ. Trying to put a replacement module in for my 98 Sonoma. Got a matching replacement module from ebay. Cables are good, trying to remove the plug in portion of the cable so I can hook it up to the new module(replacement module didn’t come with cable and mine is ok). but, can’t figure out how to unplug from existing/old module. Tried pushing tabs in on both sides while pulling on plug to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  

Could the brake switch still be a problem for the cruise control even if the brake lights still function properly? I've checked the the electrical function tests with a voltmeter on at the connection to the module and everything seems to test correctly except the brake on and off connections.  

This was answered in the third post above yours by @RayVoy . The second set of contacts is the key. Ted  

Keybone Ray was actually replying to @aisfkhan533 . If by module you mean the multi-function switch yes it's possible the problem is there. You don't mention what type vehicle you have. That will have a definite bearing on your cruise control problem. Let us know what you're driving. And welcome to the site. Ted  

I have a 98 suburban that the cruise control doesn't work. I checked the wiring at the control module and everything checks out expect for the wire coming from the brake light switch that supposed to voltage when the brake isn't applied and no volts when applied. I replaced the brake switch but that didn't correct anything. I checked to see if going down the road if staying on the gas a press on the brake to see if the torque converter would unlock and I didn't see the rpm jump up at all. Just wondering if anybody had any ideas on were to look next. Thanks for your time.  

Here’s my write up on how and what to check. http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/305207  

I have a 98 Tahoe. The cruise works until the temp outside hits around 84 degrees, then it kicks off. After the day cools down, it works again, Any ideas?  

Howdy and welcome. Sounds a lot like a broken solder joint. You at all handy with a soldering iron?  

I'm a rwtired aircraft electrician. Where is the connection?  

Perfect! Its a long shot, but you unplug the power connector. Open the cover ( should be several Torx screws. Separate the housing. The cover is pretty well sealed so be careful opening the case. Remove the board and you’ll see where the power connector lands. Try reflowing those six or eight terminals. I forget how many there are on that plug. This technique has worked to fix wiper control boards when the blades don’t return home after shutting them off. Constant road vibrations cause the connector to bounce and create cracks in the factory solder joints. Hopefully this works for your CC board.  

Worth a try! Thanks. Might be a few days before I can get to it. Hay season is upon us.  

I had a fail of the cruise control on my 94 burb. After searching and troubleshooting, I decided to pull the multifunction switch. At least one wire was broken. I replaced the switch and now I have cruise control.  

Can you upload a picture?  

I recall being curious and pulling one off a unit I had in the salvage yard. It took quite a bit of force to squeeze those two tabs. Maybe a C clamp?  

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1996 Chevrolet C1500 Pickup RWD

1996 Chevrolet C1500 Pickup RWD - Engine And Powertrain Control Module

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1988-1994 Chevy Chevrolet Silverado GMC Sierra Complete Cruise Control Kit

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This is a 100% complete universal cruise control kit for the 1988-1994 Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra as well as the Suburban - Tahoe - Yukon. Cruise switch only available with delay wipers. Kit comes complete with electronic servo and replacement turn signal lever with wiper functions. 3 year warranty on parts only. Please call with any application or installation questions.

Posted by James on 15th Jun 2016

5 STARS. It went together with no problems. I was impressed . Instructions were right on. Worked first time i tried it. No problems what so ever. Very seldom does this happen in the real world. THANKS JAMES

Rostra Cruse Control for 1993 Chevy PU

Posted by JT on 26th Jun 2014

Was very easy to install. Instruction setting sheet said to ground the Tech wire. I could not get it to work that way, after hooking up the tech wire it worked great. I re-grounded the tech wire and it stopped working, so re-attached tech wire and works great. Have not made any long trips after installation but works great on short.

Like it's been there all the Time

Posted by Don Griffiths on 6th Dec 2013

The cruise control unit I purchased for my 1989 Chevrolet Cheyenne 1500 shortbed pickup looks and feels like the kind that come directly from the factory. It is a very nice enhancement to a machine that I am equipping to have all the modern options that were available back then. I am satisfied that I've bought the best.

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New Starter / Alternator. Description : Part is in good condition , even though, it was used and has a minor scratch. Sign up to our. Get the all latest News, Updates and Special Offers about OUR STORE. The item “CHEVROLET CRUIZE 13574841 Body Control Module Junction Box Original OE” is in sale since Monday, November 16, 2020. This item is in the category “Vehicle Parts & Accessories\Car Parts\Electrical Components\ECUs/Computers”. The seller is “oempartseu” and is located in Luxembourg. This item can be shipped worldwide. Type: Module Body Control Manufacturer Part Number: 13574841 Unit Type: Unit Brand: Original OE

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