2009 dodge journey heater core flush

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No heat passenger side...

By rainmaninwa May 29, 2021 in Engine & Transmission

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Rainmaninwa.

So right off the bat, I will apologize for the length of the following post, but I think it is worth sharing on the forum with all of you that are struggling with the apparently common “no heat from the passenger side heat outlets” issue. This is my no heat story...

I started into trying to address this issue by reading all I could find out about it both here on the forum and on other auto tech sites to try to get a understanding of the best way to approach this problem on my 2012 Journey SXT 6 cyl. SUV... Smokin hot air out of the drivers side outlets and barely lukewarm air out of the right. all three outlets... regardless of the control settings. 

All the DIY info started me out with the pretty obvious RH heater door actuator replacement option. Since I was just starting into this it seemed a good way to begin since it was not too difficult or expensive to do the actuator replacement under the dash. Easy enough if I ignore the sore neck from laying on my side to get to it... 

Rock Auto provided me with a new actuator and after replacing the old one, I disassembled it to find to my disappointment that the gears were NOT stripped out and that there was essentially nothing wrong with it. Accordingly there was NO noticeable change in the right side no heat problem. While I had the glove box out, I replaced the cabin air filter which was pretty jammed up with dirt and I think it made a slight difference in the overall air output, but gave me no change to the output air temp. While I was at it I messed about with the other actuators as well and determined that they were indeed moving the outside air and cold/hot mix doors in the heater box when the proper controls in the dash were selected. 

The next issue down the list to address was the possibility that the heater core could be clogged, especially since my new (used) 2012 has 90K miles and the coolant/hoses all appear to be OEM installs, I figured that a total cooling system flush was in order anyway.

I put a big tub under the car in the area of the water pump and removed the thermostat housing/outlet and the lower radiator hose while trying to capture as much of the old coolant as I could in the tub. Since the coolant is the goofy brown HOAT antifreeze, I wasn't able to determine if it looked overly contaminated or rusty, but it smelled gross and and I was really surprised to find a lot of SAND in the bottom of the shop sink when I dumped the tub. (see picture 1). Anyway, I then did a back flush of the whole system thru the lower radiator hose and out the open thermostat recess (engine running) as well as the coolant reservoir. The reservoir was coated internally with brown ooze partly filled with crud. (see Picture 2, it clearly shows the stuff I sucked out of it that settled out overnight.) and I ultimately had to remove it from the car to take it to the sink to get at it with brushes, etc to get it cleaned out, it's practically impossible to clean. When done I reinstalled the tank and the thermo/outlet and radiator hose. 

Filled the cooling system with plain water and went for a drive... When fully warmed up (210 deg) Seemed like there was minor improvement in the R/H outlets temperature, but still not nearly as hot as the drivers side. Accordingly I figured that maybe some cooling system flush from the local auto parts store might be helpful to further remove any debris from the cooling system/heater core. Accordingly I got some “heavy duty” cooling system cleaner and added it in. The instructions on the cleaner said that I could run it for a couple of days and then drain it out, so I drove it around town for 3 days and then drained it again. More SAND... (see picture 3) but not nearly as much as the first time.

So I found online that the 2012 V6 had a big service recall regarding problems with the engine block manufacturing CORE SAND not being totally removed from the castings when the engine blocks were made at the foundry. This apparently resulted in engines overheated and ruined resulting in total engine replacement in some instances... I am really sure that issue accounts for all the sand I found upon flushing as well (picture 3). 

Filled it with water again and went for a drive... NO HEAT whatsoever from either side of the car....??? Checked the temp indicator and see that the engine is now only getting up to 145 degrees!

Back to the garage and removed the Thermostat housing/water outlet (again) and sure enough... Thermostat not closing at all (wonder if my radiator cleaner was to blame?). Back to the parts store for a new thermostat/housing and installed same. Upon driving again, engine temp is back to 207 degrees and the R/H air outlets are putting out even more heat than before, but unfortunately not as hot as the drivers side... 

At this point, with my frustration level rising, I was reminded of the U-Tube videos I had watched showing the actual process for replacing the old heater core which apparently do often get flow restricted. Being sure that I didn't want to do that nasty job under the dash, I opted to try a direct flush of the heater core itself, which I had also seen on U-Tube. Not nearly as complicated... but a mess nonetheless...

The vids I watched involved removing the heater hoses from the core inlet/outlet pipes coming thru the firewall (picture 4) and then directly back flushing thru the heater core by itself. I modified this plan to remove the hoses from their connections up front at the engine and flush them from there where I could get to them easier.

Realizing that whatever was still plugging up the heater core would require pretty aggressive flushing to remove, I opted to make myself a flushing gun so I could really force the water back thru the core to clean it out. (see picture 5). I used a old HFT air blow gun and added a copper tube and hose connection so I could force air/water thru the core and really clear it out. One of the vids also suggested putting some radiator flush directly into the heater core and letting it sit for a few minutes before doing the reverse flush process to to the core to loosen whatever is stopping it up. I elected to try that. Bought some 5/8 I.D. clear plastic tubing to use with the flush gun, disconnected the heater hoses and rigged it up. 

This is where this story gets really stupid... In my garage I had a small plastic jug of CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover) on my shelf with my other chemicals. Since I was only going to leave it in the core for a couple of minutes, I figured I could use that instead of getting more radiator flush from the parts store. The CLR is acidic but very mild, but even so I elected to mix it 25% with water. 

The CLR was sitting on the shelf next to another identical plastic bottle, only it was phosphoric acid concrete cleaner... Yep, thats the jug I mistakenly picked up, mixed into my jar with water and poured it down the line into the heater core. Duh! I let it set for about 5 minutes and looked at the plastic tubes and you wouldn't believe the crud that was bubbling out. Lots of white looking flakes and globs of white pasty stuff (see Picture 6). Amazing there was any heat coming out of the heater at all. I drained the tubes of the gook and then hooked up the flush gun and gave it a gentle shot (don't hit it with full air/water pressure or you'll likely damage something.) with water/air and got more globs & white debris. Continued the flush for several minutes from both directions and when done, reconnected the heater hoses. Only when I had completed this did I realize I had used the wrong stuff!!!

Well, what a lucky break I guess... Refilled the system with water and I got heat on both sides now... Probably wouldn't have cleared it out without mistakenly using that super duty Phosphoric acid floor cleaner. I don't think it hurt anything but time will tell I guess. I refilled the system with good old green antifreeze because I'm tired of that orange HOAT stuff turning to brown guck and plugging everything up. I know, I know, its not supposed to be used but at this point I don't care. I'll see how it all works. Can't say I would recommend using that acid product to anyone else but the process seemed to work pretty well for me, and I'm really happy with how the flush gun worked. No to mention, I didn't have to do that nasty heater core replacement job... 

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hate bring this up but i would be ready to replace the heater core esp since you used such a strong acid by mistake,usually when you backflush a heater core it will start leaking down the road as the heater cores are a more fragile cooler than the rad. hoping for that not to happen to you tho,,to be honest replacing the heater core does not look that bad as some youtube videos show how to do a shortcut on doing it, and also by replacing it you would have to not worry about it starting to plug up again or worse start leaking inside the cabin at a difficult time or place, great write up on a frustrating repair that never seems to end...sounds like you are a good mechanic or car guy so guess you know your transmission is about to need to be serviced as well at 100k,,,take care and stay safe.....

I mentioned the core sand months ago, after speaking to a neighbour and, having your exact same issue. Glad to hear the thought was confirmed ...kinda ?  Decided to live with it until the 2012 is replaced, not changing the core again. Awesome write up, really hope your fix works for a long time, you did a lot of work ( making a air / water flush gun )  LOL 

John/Horace

Your early rad failure Probak118 might also be tied to the sand residue in system. Friend had the similar  problem with a 3.6 in a 2012 Ram. Cylinder head that year was the most $ problem, mainly passenger side I think.

seams like i read somewhere that they heater core has 2 separate sides for left and right? that might account for this problem ,but it just doesn't sound right 2 separate cooling zones.

Need the right left diverter for accurate depiction. Heater core box has two chambers for diff temp.

So partly plugged heater core you would think would affect both sides equally. So I agree problem may have some other variable we don’t know about. Sticking or internally broken door actuator comes to mind.  Actually temp probe stuck in vent is nice for accurate data.

Hey everybody....  Thanks all for your inputs.    I did some more lookin around online to try to get a better idea of why this heater core plugging issue seems to cause differential heat from one side to the other... I was able to capture a screen shot of a vid somebody posted with their old heater core cut open.    I think it pretty definitively nails down the cause.    The plugging seems to occur on the right side of the heater core away from the inlet port from the engine... seems to make some sense that any debris would be pushed back to the end of the passageway, congeal  and collect...(see picture).    I also reposted one of my pics of the jar full of coolant that I removed from the coolant tank on my '12 and the beginning of this exercise and I note that the two different pics convince me that it's that common colored green gook that collected at the bottom of the jar that is also collecting in the right side of the heater core inlet tank.   A restriction such as this in the right side of the core would also tend to supply the vent chamber side of the heater box assembly somehow.    Wish I had one to take apart and look at...  

• 2late4u and John/Horace

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Common Dodge Journey Problems: 1st Generation (2009 to 2020)

Common 1st gen Dodge Journey problems include no heat and issues with the throttle body. Learn the common problems on the 1st generation of the Dodge Journey, years 2009 to 2020, and their symptoms, causes, and fixes.

Top 5 Issues with the 1st Gen Dodge Journey (2009 to 2020)

1. heater core problems, symptoms of heater core problems.

• No heat when the heat is turned on
• Heat temperature is lower than normal

Causes of a Bad Heater Core

The heater core can clog on the 1st gen Journey from sediment in the coolant.

How to Fix a Bad Heater Core

As a temporary fix you can flush out the heater core by disconnecting the coolant hoses that lead into the firewall and connect to the heater core.

Replacing the heater core includes removing the dash, the steering wheel, and electronics like the radio. The A/C evaporative core is also part of the heater box, so the A/C system will need to be recovered and recharged.

2. Throttle Body Problems

Symptoms of throttle body problems on the 2009 to 2020 dodge journey.

• High RPMs at idle
• Rough running engine at idle
• Check engine light for code P2112 or P2110

How to Fix Throttle Body Problems

Cleaning the throttle body will not fix these problems on the 2009 to 2020 Dodge Journey. The problem is an issue with the internal sensors and motor, so the throttle body will need to be replaced.

3. Key Fob Failure

Symptoms of a bad key fob.

• Vehicle won’t start
• Door locks don’t work

How to Fix a Key Fob

If there is another remote, see if it works. If it doesn’t, replacing the key fob battery usually fixes this issue.

4. Thermostat Failure

Symptoms of a bad thermostat.

• Check engine light for code P0652

How to Fix a Bad Thermostat

To replace the thermostat, the thermostat needs to be replaced with the housing as one piece. Since a bad heater core can also cause the symptom of no heat, if the temperature gauge is not in its usual position, the thermostat likely has an issue.

5. Wiper Relay

Symptoms of wiper problems.

• Wiper speeds not working
• Windshield wipers not working

Causes of Windshield Wiper Problems

Windshield wiper problems on the 1st gen Dodge Journey tend to stem from issues with the wiper relay. If the wipers won’t turn on, it could be the motor relay, and if the wipers have issues with the settings, it could be the wiper speed relay.

How to Fix Wiper Problems

Remove the fuse box cover from the fuses in the engine bay.

Since the relays are the same part number, they could be swapped, so if the wipers are not turning on, try swapping them to see if it’s causing the issue.

If there is an issue with the wipers’ speed, the wiper speed relay will need to be swapped with a new relay to test it.

1st Generation Dodge Journey Model Years

• 2009 Dodge Journey
• 2010 Dodge Journey
• 2011 Dodge Journey
• 2012 Dodge Journey
• 2013 Dodge Journey
• 2014 Dodge Journey
• 2015 Dodge Journey
• 2016 Dodge Journey
• 2017 Dodge Journey
• 2018 Dodge Journey
• 2019 Dodge Journey
• 2020 Dodge Journey

Related Content

• Car Heater Not Working?
• Is Your Car Heater Not Blowing Air?
• How to Tell if a Relay is Bad in a Car, Truck, or SUV

Shop 1st Gen Dodge Journey Parts

• Engine & Engine Management
• Heating & Cooling

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How to Flush a Heater Core

Last Updated: September 9, 2021 Approved

This article was co-authored by Tom Eisenberg . Tom Eisenberg is the Owner and General Manager of West Coast Tires & Service in Los Angeles, California, a family-owned AAA-approved and certified auto shop. Tom has over 10 years of experience in the auto industry. Modern Tire Dealer Magazine voted his shop one of the Best 10 Operations in the Country. There are 7 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, 89% of readers who voted found the article helpful, earning it our reader-approved status. This article has been viewed 345,756 times.

If your vehicle’s heater isn’t working as well as it used to, or has stopped working entirely, it may be the result of a clog in your heater core. The heater core is similar to a radiator and is a part of the vehicle’s coolant system. Hot coolant that has passed through other parts of the engine is run through the heater core as air is forced past it and into the cabin of the vehicle to heat it. A clogged heater core will prevent the coolant from passing through it, limiting the amount of heat that can be transferred. Flushing the heater core can remove these clogs, but if it fails to work, you may need to have your heater core replaced.

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Attaching a Pressure Source

• There will be two nozzles, one for the flow of coolant in and the other for the flow of coolant out.
• You can locate the nozzles by following the coolant hoses through the coolant system.

• If you damage the hose clamp as you loosen it, you can purchase replacement clamps at your local auto parts store.
• Be careful not to spill coolant on the ground, as it is bad for the environment.

• Be sure the hose is positioned so anything that comes out of it will pour into the container.

• You will need to use a water hose to flush the system either way, but compressed air may move harder to break blockages.

• If there is a serious blockage in the line, pressure may leak back out the hose rather than penetrating the clog.
• A good seal around the hose pushing air or water into the system will force the pressure to go through the clog.

Draining the Grime and Coolant

• Leave the hose or airline running for a few minutes to ensure it pressurizes the entire system.

• The system will likely continue to drain for a few minutes after you turn off the flow of air or water.

• You may want to pour the container out into a separate, sealable container between flushes to ensure it doesn’t overflow.
• Flush the system one or two times before moving on.

• Replace damaged or rusty hose clamps before reinstalling the hoses.
• The hoses can usually only reach one nozzle, so it is easy to determine which goes where.

• You can purchase pre-mixed coolant and water or you may choose to mix it yourself.
• If you are unsure of what kind of coolant is right for your vehicle, ask the clerk at your local auto parts store for assistance.

Preparing to Flush a Heater Core

• Black top and concrete are the best surfaces to jack a vehicle up on.
• Never jack up a vehicle on grass, dirt or gravel.

• Touch your hands on the hood of the car. If it is slightly warm, the engine inside is likely still quite hot.
• It may take a number of hours for an engine to cool completely.

• If you are unsure where to locate the designated jack points for your vehicle, refer to your owner’s manual for guidance.
• Once the vehicle has been jacked up, slide jack stands beneath it to support the weight of the vehicle.

• Refer to the service manual for your specific vehicle to find out its coolant capacity.
• Be sure the container you choose does not leak and preferably can be sealed to transport the coolant to a recycling center.

Community Q&A

You Might Also Like

• ↑ http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3270/whats-wrong-with-my-cars-heater-16078844/
• ↑ http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/articles/do-i-need-a-heater-core-flush.shtml
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9SIafVsqyc
• ↑ https://youtu.be/M9SIafVsqyc?t=105
• ↑ https://www.dummies.com/home-garden/car-repair/how-to-safely-jack-up-your-vehicle/
• ↑ https://youtu.be/M9SIafVsqyc?t=180

About This Article

To flush a heater core, locate the heater core on the vehicle’s firewall, loosen the clamps, and disconnect the heater hoses. Next, insert an airline into the outlet hose and seal the line with duct tape. Place a container under the vehicle, turn on the air compressor, and allow the coolant and grime to drain into the container. Then, fill the system with water 1-2 times with a water hose to flush out any remaining coolant. Lastly, reattach the heater hoses and refill the coolant system with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. For tips on jacking up your vehicle so you can access the firewall, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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Coolant Flush How-to: 2009 Dodge Journey SXT 3.5L V6

Dodge journey model years - 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019.

1. Getting Started - Prepare for the repair

2. Overview - How to determine cooling system type

3. Open the Hood - How to pop the hood and prop it open

4. Find Reservoir - Locate the coolant / antifreeze reservoir and clean it

5. Drain Reservoir - Remove coolant / antifreeze from the reservoir

6. Drain Point - Locate the drain point on the radiator

7. Drain Coolant - Drain the coolant from the system

8. Circulate Water - Run engine with distilled water and flush

9. Fill Coolant - Dilute coolant / antifreeze with distilled water and fill

10. Locate Hoses - Locate the coolant / antifreeze hoses and connection points

11. Burp System - Remove excess air in the cooling system

12. Replace Cap - Put the reservoir cap back on

13. Replace Cover - Put the cover back on underneath

14. Clean Up Tips - Secrets to dealing with spilled coolant

15. More Info. - Additional information on coolant flushes

Hans Angermeier is an ASE certified Maintenance and Light Repair Technician and has produced over 100,000 videos showing drivers how to fix things on their cars. He has broad expertise on basic repair procedures covering the majority of cars on the road. Over the past 10 years, Hans has been focused on building CarCareKiosk, which is visited by millions of drivers each month.

• Lake Ford helped make these videos
• Download Dodge owners manuals

Learn how to flush the coolant (antifreeze) in your 2009 Dodge Journey. Coolant / antifreeze circulates through Journey radiator and engine to maintain the proper temperature. Coolant / antifreeze also passes through the heater core under your cowl to provide heat to the cabin of your Journey. In addition to preventing your car from overheating, coolant / antifreeze also helps lubricate the seals in the water pump and hoses. Start your coolant flush by draining the coolant / antifreeze that is in your reservoir, then drain the coolant that is in your radiator by opening the petcock or removing the lower radiator hose. This video shows where the radiator drain plug (petcock) is located on a 2009 Dodge Journey. Fill up the radiator with distilled water and run the engine. Turn off the engine and drain the water, fill up the radiator with antifreeze until you have a 50/50 coolant / distilled water mixture and burp the system.

Like the oil in your Journey, coolant gets dirty over time and loses its ability to cool down your 3.5 liter engine. When you flush your coolant, which is antifreeze, on your 2009, you are draining out all of the old dirty coolant and preventing costly radiator and cooling system repair down the road. The video above shows you where the petcock on your radiator is located, how to flush the coolant / antifreeze and how to burp the system to get the air out of your Journey.

Coolant is toxic and animals are attracted to the sweet taste of coolant (antifreeze). If you spill coolant when you flush your Journey, be sure to put down cat litter to soak it up to discard it. Flushing the coolant on a regular basis removes gunk and mineral deposits from your engine, while prolonging the life of your heater core, thermostat, hoses and water pump.

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Home » Troubleshooting » Dodge Journey heater not working – causes and diagnosis

Dodge Journey heater not working – causes and diagnosis

The heater in Dodge Journey ensures comfortable temperature in the passenger compartment when the weather is chilly. There are many reasons for poor heating performance in Journey, which are explained in this article.

The heater may stop working in Dodge Journey due to low coolant level or air in the cooling system, clogged heater core, bad thermostat, faulty blend door actuator, bad water pump, dirty cabin air filter, bad blower motor, or HVAC control unit malfunction.

1. Low coolant or air in the cooling system

Low coolant level or air in the cooling system can cause the heater to stop working properly in Journey. If the cooling system is not full and bled properly, the water pump will not be able to push the coolant around the system efficiently.

The heating system in Journey uses hot coolant or antifreeze from the engine block to heat the interior of the vehicle. The hot coolant is pumped through the heater core located behind the dashboard. When you turn on the heating, air gets blown through the heater core, warming the air in the cabin. If there is air trapped inside the heater core, the coolant will not be able to flow through it properly. Since the heater core is usually slightly higher, the air will accumulate in there first. By filling and properly bleeding the system the heat should come back.

Sloshing water sound

Low coolant level or air in the heater core can sometimes cause sloshing sound from behind the dashboard when the engine is running. The sound is most prominent right after you start the vehicle.

Check coolant level

Checking coolant level in Journey is a fairly some job. You just have to locate the coolant overflow reservoir and inspect the level of coolant in it. If the coolant level is low, open the cap and pour some coolant into the tank until it is between minimum and maximum mark.

Recommended video

2. Clogged heater core

Clogged heater core is one of the leading causes of heating not working in Dodge Journey. The design of the heater core is similar to the radiator, it has narrow internal channels through which hot coolant flows. Over time, the heater core can begin to rust or mineral deposits can form in these channels, blocking the flow of the coolant.

How to check if the heater core is clogged

You don’t have to remove the heater core in your Journey to check if it is clogged. Locate two rubber hoses that connect to the heater core through the firewall area. Feel both the rubber lines going in and out of the heater core after the engine has warmed up. Both should be hot. If one is hot and the other is cold, you have a plugged heater core.

Flush the heater core

Before you consider replacing the heater core in your Journey, it is recommended to flush the existing heater core. Flushing is done by pushing water through the outlet hose of the heater core and draining the gunk from the inlet hose. There are flush kits available in the market that can help you do the job yourself.

3. Bad thermostat

Thermostat is a part of the cooling system in Dodge Journey which ensures that the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature as quickly as possible and maintain it under all operating conditions.

Thermostat is stuck open

When you start your Journey when the engine is cold, the thermostat cuts off flow of coolant through the radiator in order to quickly reach the optimal engine operating temperature. But if the thermostat has developed a defect and is stuck to open position, the coolant will continuously flow through the radiator and the engine may take a long time to reach its optimal operating temperature.

Heater takes a long time to blow hot air

Since the heating system in Journey relies on the hot coolant from the engine to heat the interior, the heater will blow cold air until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. But if the weather is too cold, the engine may never reach its optimal operating temperature with a stuck open thermostat. Your vehicle may also consume more fuel than normal.

5. Bad water pump

The water pump is the heart of the cooling system in Journey responsible for pumping coolant throughout the system and cooling the engine. If the water pump has worn out and the coolant is not being circulated as effectively as it used to, it can cause the heater to stop working properly because there’s less coolant available to transfer heat between the engine and the heater core.

Water pumps usually last for more than 100,000 miles, but they can fail at any time. A bad water pump will not only cause poor heating, but can also result in engine damage due to overheating. Therefore it is important to diagnose a failing water pump at early stages to avoid expensive repairs later on.

6. Faulty blend door actuator

Blend door actuator plays a role in controlling the temperature inside your Journey. If the blend door actuator fails to fully open the blend door towards the heater core, it will result in poor heating performance.

The most common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in Dodge Journey is a slight clicking sound (or other unusual noise) repeatedly coming from under the dashboard. The sound will be most prominent for a few seconds when you turn on the air conditioning or adjust the temperature.

Symptom: knocking sound

A knocking noise from behind the dashboard could be an indicator of a bad blend door actuator in your Journey. The sound is something like a light tapping on the door and it typically happens when you turn on/off the air conditioning system or start the engine.

Symptom: creaking sound

One side hot, other side cold.

A common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in vehicles with dual zone climate control system is one side blowing hot air while the other side is blowing cold air.

Replace the faulty part

A bad blend door actuator usually cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one. Due to the complexity of the replacement job, it is not recommended as a DIY project. The blend door actuator may require recalibration after replacement.

7. Dirty cabin air filter

Dirty cabin air filter is the leading cause of weak heater airflow in Dodge Journey. The pollen filter, also known as the cabin air filter or microfilter, is responsible for filtering the air that the passengers breathe in the cabin. A dirty filter causes the overall ventilation of the interior to deteriorate resulting in reduced heating and airflow.

There is no fixed time for replacing the cabin air filter, but most manufacturers recommend a change after 10,000-20,000 miles. If you drive your vehicle in dusty or polluted environment, the filter can get dirty much sooner than manufacturer’s recommendation. Additionally, if you drive your Journey with AC system set to fresh outside air most of the time, your cabin air filter will get dirty much sooner as compared to air recirculation mode.

Replace the filter at the start of every winter for optimal performance

It is generally recommended to replace the cabin air filter every year at the start of the winter season. Spring and summer seasons are hard on the cabin air filter because of pollen and bugs, and in the fall they can get clogged with leaf debris. This gives you a fresh start for the winter, improves defroster performance, and reduces chances of mold or mildew growth.

Can you clean a dirty cabin air filter?

Instead of changing the cabin air filter in Journey, it is often recommended to first clean the filter. This can be done, for example, with a vacuum cleaner or a compressed air system, removing at least a large part of the visible dirt particles. Unfortunately, this procedure does not allow you to get into the deeper layers of the filter. Therefore, the filter performance will not increase significantly even after cleaning. As a rule, there is no avoiding a change if the filter is dirty.

8. Sluggish blower motor

If the blower motor in your Journey is not spinning fast enough either due to an internal defect or due to a fault in the resistor/control module, the airflow from the AC vents will be weaker and the heating performance will be degraded.

When a blower motor goes bad, it usually makes unusual noises when in operation, and the passengers may feel reduced airflow from the air vents. Keep in mind that reduced airflow doesn’t always indicate a problem with the blower motor, as it can also happen due to a clogged cabin air filter, dirty evaporator, or a bad mode door actuator. So, all of them must be inspected when diagnosing poor airflow.

9. Dead blower motor (no airflow)

If there is no air flow from the air vents in the dashboard when you turn on the heater in your Dodge Journey, it means the problem is related to the fan or blower motor function.

The most common causes for blower motor not working in Dodge Journey are blown fuse, bad relay, resistor or control module malfunction, and faulty blower motor. However, a bad electrical connector or broken wire, or a defect in the climate control unit can also cause the blower motor to stop working.

10. Dirty evaporator

Dirty evaporator can cause weak airflow and reduce the heating performance in Journey. Although, the evaporator coil is a component of the cooling function of the air-conditioning system, but the air always first passes through the evaporator and then flows over the heater core.

The cabin air filter captures most of the dirt or other airborne particles, but some particles escape and can get lodged on to the evaporator. Over time, these particles build up on the fins and block the air flow through the evaporator, causing reduced air flow in the cabin and poor heating or cooling.

Function of the evaporator in heating mode

When the heater is turned on and the AC turned off, the compressor does not turn on and the evaporator is not cooled. When you press the AC button in heating mode, the compressor turns on and the evaporator cools and dries the air before it enters the heater core. This mode is useful for clearing fog from the windows.

11. Faulty HVAC module

Climate control module is the brain of the air-conditioning system in your Dodge Journey, responsible for controlling all the components in the system. In rare cases, a fault in the climate control unit can cause the heater to stop functioning. This would require a scan tool to confirm correct operation.

12. Blown head gasket

The head gasket is responsible for providing the seal between the engine block and cylinder heads. Its purpose is to seal the combustion gases within the cylinders and to avoid coolant or engine oil leaking into the cylinders. Leaks in the head gasket can cause all sorts of problems in your Journey including poor heater performance. This is mostly common in older vehicles.

Leaking exhaust gases

A blown head gasket can cause the exhaust gases from the engine to enter the cooling system and plug the heater core. Clearing the air from the heater core will not help until the head gasket has been replaced.

Leaking coolant

A blown head gasket can cause coolant to leak into the combustion chambers and burn off. If your Journey is losing coolant, that means there is a leak somewhere or it is getting burned up inside the engine.

How to check if head gasket is leaking in Journey?

You don’t have to go to a workshop to check for a leaking head gasket in your Journey. There are test kits available in the market in which you just have to insert a tube filled with colored liquid in the radiator (in place of the radiator cap), and then start the engine. If the liquid changes color, then there is a leak in head gasket.

Switch on air recirculation mode

When the outside temperature drops too low, the heating performance may be reduced in Journey if the air conditioning system is set to outside air. To improve heating efficiency, it is recommended to switch on air recirculation mode. Don’t worry, there is no risk of suffocation, as the air recirculation mode still allows up to approximately 10 percent of the air coming from the air vents to be fresh air from the outside.

There are many reasons why the heater in your Dodge Journey is not working properly. When looking for the reason, you should start with the most obvious causes: low coolant level or air in the cooling system, and clogged heater core.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to visit a workshop. A professional mechanic can swiftly diagnose the heating issue for you.

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Dodge Journey Leaking Heater Core Diagnosis

One of the most common problems that can happen to a vehicle is a heater core leak.  If your Dodge Journey has a leaking heater core, it is not a breakdown risk.  Although, it is necessary to make sure that the lost coolant is replaced.  It can cause damage to the vehicle in other ways, and should be addressed as soon as possible.

How a Heater Core Works:  Dodge Journey

A heater core is a small radiator that runs hot coolant to the inside of your Journey.  It functions exactly the same way the radiator does.  There is a line of hot coolant coming from the engine, and there is a return line.

The blower motor runs air over the heater core and the cabin warms up.  Temperature is controlled by the blend door, which the driver controls.  The more the heat is turned up, the higher the percentage of air passing over the heater core.  If you do end up needing a new one, they’re pretty cheap .

Bad or Leaking Heater Core Symptoms:  Dodge Journey

Here are the most common symptoms of a bad heater core in your Journey:

1. Coolant Smell

The nose and ears are our best auto diagnostic tools.  You can learn a lot about what is going on with a vehicle by what smells and sounds different.  In the case of a bad heater core, the smell you’ll be smelling is quite sweet.  It’ll smell like maple syrup or fruit.  Really, it’s whatever your engine coolant smells like.

2. Coolant Leaking into the Cabin

If you are able to easily smell coolant while driving your Journey, you’ll probably find that your passenger floorboard is wet.  A heater core that is slowly leaking will do damage to the sheet metal under the carpet.

The heater core is itself is almost always located on the passenger side of the vehicle.  Turn on the blower motor and follow the sound.  They are always close to one another.  Check the floorboard directly below the heater core and see if it is wet.  If coolant is allowed down there for a very long time the floorboards can rust.

If your Journey doesn’t have any heat at all, that can be a sign of a clogged heater core.  It could also be a sign that you are almost out of coolant .  If coolant can’t get to the heater core, it won’t produce any heat at all.

In the case that the heater isn’t putting out heat, check to make sure that the coolant level is full.  You shouldn’t need to pull the radiator cap off, just check the overflow and fill it up.  If it’s bone dry fill it up and let the cooling system pull it in as the car/truck warms up.

It is also possible that the blend door isn’t opening or closing properly.  Depending on how old and complicated the vehicle is, the blend door may be operated by cable, or it could be operated by an actuator.  It’s not unheard of for them to freeze up and not work until thawed back out.

If you aren’t getting heat at all, check out this Dodge Journey No Heat article before replacing the heater core.

4. Foggy Windows

Foggy windows are a sure sign of a bad heater core.  When you turn your heater on with the heater core is leaking, it’s effectively acting as a humidifier.  it’s not water causing the fog, it’s antifreeze.

Antifreeze is harmful and can be fatal if swallowed.  It’s not good to breath as a vapor either.

5. Overheating

An overheating engine can indicate that the heater core is leaking.  But, there are a lot of other reasons why a vehicle could overheat.  In fact, if you are overheating don’t start with the heater core unless you are getting obvious signs from inside the vehicle.  Make sure that the coolant is filled and start looking for a leak if it isn’t full.  If it is full and overheating, take a look at the thermostat first.

Bad Heater Core Causes

A leaking heater core is going to be caused by a crack that leaks coolant out, or it’s going to be clogged.  When it is clogged it doesn’t have a leak, but it also won’t pass coolant and provide heat to the cabin.

Conclusion:  Dodge Journey Bad Heater Core

Good luck determining whether or not your Journey’s heater core is bad.  If there is anything that you would like to add, please feel free to leave a comment below.

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2009 Dodge Journey - Heater Hose

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• Antifreeze Flush Kit/Test
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Gates EPDM Rubber, Plastic Heater Hose

Gates epdm rubber heater hose, what are car heater hoses.

Heater hoses move warm coolant from your water pump or engine through your heater core and back again to ensure coolant properly cycles through the heating system. The warm coolant in your heater core provides heat for your vehicle's cabin, and the blower motor blows air over the core's heated fins before it reaches the vents. Heater hoses are made of rubber or plastic, and may be secured with hose clamps or specialty quick connectors that might require a specialty disconnect tool to remove. Like all hoses, heater hoses and their fittings can wear out over time from constant exposure to hot temperatures. The rubber of the hose can dry out, crack, or split, and plastic heater hose lines can also experience wear that can lead to leaks. Since one end of the heater hose goes to your cabin, you may see leaks at the back of your engine compartment, and in extreme cases, you might even notice antifreeze in your floorboard. A damaged or clogged heater hose or heater core could also cause your heater to fail to work as it should - but this may also be due to a clogged or damaged heater valve or other factors. If you have a coolant leak or low coolant levels , and especially if your cabin isn't getting warm, check the condition of your heater hoses. If you notice any damage, or if the heater hoses are especially spongy, brittle, show signs of cracking, or have other wear, they should be replaced to prevent an untimely breakdown and overheating. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries replacement heater hoses, hose clamps, fittings, coolant, and more to help you complete your repair.

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Flushing the cooling system + back-flushing the heater core DIY

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• Do I need to flush the heater core?
• Should I flush the heater core?
• If yes, which heater core hose is the output hose?
• If no, will flushing the coolant also flush the heater core?
• Should replace the OEM t-stat with a fresh one?
• If the coolant is HOAT, what kind of damage could it have done to my 2016 R/T?

How many miles are on the car? Is the coolant color your main suspicion?  

Less than 21k. I just want to make sure the system is clean. I have a vacuum lift device coming, so that I don't have to mess with bleeding air from the system. I'm concerned about making sure the heater core gets filled as well. I assume the vacuum lift system takes fluid throughout the entire system? I guess I won't mess with backwashing the heater core. Not unless it needs to be done. I was planning on draining the coolant, filling it with water and Prestone radiator flush, drain the flush, rinse with more water, then recharge with the vacuum lift and Mopar coolant. The one thing that baffles me, is how the vacuum can pull air from/coolant through the system, when there's a closed t-stat in the system?  

Did you buy the car new? If so....has the car ever had any cooling system related work performed on it?  

Purchased it used. No cooling related work that I'm aware of.  

Going off memory here......but I think FCA actually offered the OAT coolant in two colors. One color was unique to the Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep family, and the other was unique to Fiat.  

At 4 years and only 21K miles, there should be no corrosion or rust issues that would necessitate extra effort during a coolant change. Just drain the system completely, run pure water through it a few days to flush it out if you want, then refill with the proper coolant (Purple OAT most likely) mixed at a 50/50 ratio with purified or distilled water (non-tap in other words). BLAMMO! You’re good to go until 2025-ish or 125K miles on the odometer, whichever comes first. If you are truly concerned about the system needing a thorough flush to remove contaminants, check the condition of the inside walls of the coolant overflow reservoir. If you see lots of deposits stuck to the inside of that container, they are also going to be throughout the cooling system and need to be addressed in some fashion. But I would be shocked if your system were in that bad of a shape after so few miles and only 4 years.  

Also, there is no reason to replace the OE thermostat right now unless you just want to run a lower temp one. The OE unit will be good for another 100K miles at least, likely much longer.  

Thank you! I've heard that Dodge heater cores fail as a result of particulate matter from production, that they should be backwashed before they leave the plant. I can't see where that's true though... I worked in the line at Ford Motor, and don't every recall this being an issue. I suppose failures could be do to materials, but I doubt it. I've seen videos clips where people are sending CLR through their aluminium heater core! I can't think of a better what to trash a piece of aluminium than to hit it with acid. It may not effect the surface metal to large extent, but the welds are another story. I'm not hip on using a 180 t-stat on newer engines. Not with the kind of tolerances they're using today. Part of getting the engine up to spec temperature is so that the oil can flow properly within a minimal amount of time. Once the coolant reaches 200 degrees, the t-stat is running wide open; same as a 180 t-stat. If engines are running too hot with the stock t-stat, there's something else going on. If anything, I'd be looking at an aftermarket radiator/fan assembly.  

As said above, if the coolant tank is clean I wouldn't use a flush. Think of the thermostat as one valve in a loop. When you pull a vacuum on the system, you are pulling from both sides of that valve. A vacuum system should clear the heater core and all hoses whether the thermostat is open or closed. I don't know about the thermostat in our hemi's because I haven't had an opportunity to look at one up close yet but some have a small diameter vent hole in them which would help with evacuation. DeWFPo  

DeWFPo said: As said above, if the coolant tank is clean I wouldn't use a flush. Think of the thermostat as one valve in a loop. When you pull a vacuum on the system, you are pulling from both sides of that valve. A vacuum system should clear the heater core and all hoses whether the thermostat is open or closed. I don't know about the thermostat in our hemi's because I haven't had an opportunity to look at one up close yet but some have a small diameter vent hole in them which would help with evacuation. DeWFPo Click to expand...

With the heater on, shoot the heater core hoses with an IR temp gun (if you have one) and you'll know which is IN and which is OUT. DeWFPo  

I just got through looking at the diagram... The inlet is the bottom tube.  

Wouldn't running the heater circulate through the heater core? A Guy  

Yes. In fact my info is many car heating systems have the coolant flowing through the heater all the time. The degree of cabin air heating is controlled by an air flap. With the coolant flowing through the heater core all the time there is no valve hardware to go bad and the constant flow keeps corrosion at a minimum.  

My two cents... Any flush other than possibly just a temporary fill with plain tap water and running the engine to full operating temperature is unnecessary. However, there are exceptions: Any chance the cooling system has been run with no anti freeze or has been contaminated with oil or some goofy anti freeze replacement or even an incompatible type of anti freeze with what you are goingi to use when you refill the system should have the system flushed using a good cooling system flush fluid. I have never had to do this use any of this cooling system flush stuff so I have no recommendation. My inclination would be to speak to a tech and ask his recommendation. Or if Dodge (Mopar) offers an off the shelf cooing system flush fluid use that. (Chances are it is just a relabled off the shelf flush fluid.) The heater core will be "flushed" along with the rest of the system. Turn the heat setting to max. In some cars this ensures full flow of coolant through the heater core. However, a number of cars nowadays -- actually from way back in 2002 and maybe earlier -- have a valveless heater core. The coolant flows unchecked through the heater core. The amount of heating of cabin air is controlled by the temperature control on the dash which in turn controls an air flap. Generally the T-stat is not replaced until the water pump is replaced. Almost always the water pump goes bad "first". I'm of two minds here. If you do not disturb the T-Stat during this "flushing" business leave the T-stat alone. If you have to remove it after all the flushing is over with and you are ready to button the system up prior to its last refill replace the T-stat with a factory T-stat, same temperature. Before you install the new T-stat drop the new and old T-stats in a pot of water and heat the water on the stove and using a digital cooking thermometer verify the new T-stat opens at the right temperature and opens fully. IOWs its movement should be very much like the old T-stat's movement. I do not know what if any "damage" using HOAT anti freeze can do to a cooling system. Obviously any bad cooling system components should be replaced after the system is drained and before any flushing or final refill is done.  

Rockster said: I do not know what if any "damage" using HOAT anti freeze can do to a cooling system. Obviously any bad cooling system components should be replaced after the system is drained and before any flushing or final refill is done. Click to expand...

What Is HOAT Coolant? 4 Things You Need To Know

There is one thing I know for a fact - the Dexcool tastes much better (though still not ‘good’) than the Dodge equivalent or the G5 HOAT they sell around here!  

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Heater Core Flush

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My heat is blowing barely warm-ish air this year. I have replaced my radiator and thermostat and added an aftermarket temp gauge so I know that I am running the motor at 180 degrees. I checked today after driving and one heater core hose is hot and the other was cool, I am assuming I am not getting flow through it. Is there a detergent y'all recommend that I can run in the system to try to clear it out? I really dont wanna pull the heater box and replace that core.  

Is your valve opening in the heater hose near the valve covers?  

How would I verify that?  

You could have someone move the lever from ac to heat and watch to see if the arm moves.  

Ok the arm on the valve does in fact move. Next? haha  

If the arm moves and the other heater hose is not warming up, then I would pull the valve and check to make sure that it is truly opening. I have had a couple old heater valves that appeared to be working....shutting on/off...but when i could not stop the hot water from flowing through the heater core I took it out. Seems that it broke/worn out inside and even though the arm was moving, the valve was always open. Once you have the heater hoses off I would just hold up a garden hose spray nozzle and blow it through each port. If the water does not flow through from either direction, after a few minutes of trying, then it could be totally plugged. Would probably be time for a new heater core then.  

Is there any evidence of Bars Leak or any quick leak fix? That stuff is a PAIN to get out of heater cores. When I had HC issues I just ran the garden hose to the core and a hose out the other end. Set up in reverse flow and let it go. Didnt pop the core but that is a possibility. Hopefully your valve is just malfunctioning.  

No when I replaced the radiator and T-stat I didnt see any evidence of that stuff. Should I run a detergent in the system for a little while before I try to flush it?  

Ok I flushed the core and it made a 100% difference! I have HOT air now! the only issue is I noticed that the valve does not close so I have coolant circulating all the time. Where is the best source for a new valve?  

In my opinion the best replacement valve would be a ball valve, get one at any hardware store.  

Oh really? Do you just turn it off in the winter then?  

If you want heat in the winter time it's open so the water circulates and in the summer close it.  

What is the downside to leaving it open in the summer? Forgive me for not knowing.  

Maybe a warm cab.  

Then do you just tape off that vacuum line that attaches to the stock valve?  

Just find something that fits in the hole kinda snug.  

I put the manual shut off valves on my crewcab as well...here's the write up I did. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/8...nstalling-manual-coolant-shut-off-valves.html  

All the offroad equipment that I used to work on had some sort of a manual valve on them. It's Dodges idea of making it so it's operable from the drivers seat.  

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