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Cycle Travel Overload

Bikepacking & Adventure Cycling

13 Best Touring Bikes For Worldwide Travel 2024

Looking for top-tier traditional touring bikes? You’re in the right place. As the cycling industry evolves, particularly in the gravel and bikepacking realms, the landscape of adventure cycling has changed dramatically. Yet, traditional touring bikes, once the go-to for adventure, remain as relevant as ever for fully loaded, long-distance journeys.

What Are The Best Touring Bikes – Our Recommendations

Panorama forillon, koga worldtraveller.

• Tout Terrain Silkroad

Bombtrack Arise Tour

• Falken Jagd Hoplit +

Surly Disc Trucker

Decathlon riverside touring 900, vivente gibb, salsa marrakesh, genesis tour de fer, co-op cycles adv 1.1.

While gravel bikes gain popularity for their versatility, traditional touring bikes continue to be the definitive choice for extensive touring on paved roads and beyond, including off-road expeditions. Today’s variety of touring bikes, catering to a wide spectrum of adventures and terrains, can seem daunting.

This article aims to simplify your decision-making process by focusing on the type of adventures you’re planning. We’ve curated a diverse collection of modern, capable touring bikes suitable for everything from month-long trips to lightweight, credit card-style touring. Here, you’ll find a touring bike for every cyclist, regardless of your preferred style or destination.

Light Touring or Gravel Touring Bikes

Kona sutra se.

(A Classic All-Road Touring Bike with Modern Touches)

Price: $2,199 USD (about $3,446 AUD)

Bomb proof, rock solid, smooth and comfortable ride. with traditional touring bike components; Brooks Saddle, bar-end shifters and Deore groupset

Weight :  14kg (30.86 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – Kona Cromoly Butted . Fork –  Kona Project Two Cromoly Disc Touring

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore, 26/36/48t crank and Shimano Deore 11-36t 10spd cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.90″ to 120.50″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.56 chainstay 445mm – wheelbase 1,073mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 71mm – Fork offset/rake 50mm. Bottom bracket drop 72mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700c x 40mm With a max tire clearance 29×2.3″ (Check clearance with racks)

• Many mounting options
• Comfy, smooth and rock solid bike
• Clearance for 29×2.3″ tires
• Able to ride MTB sections
• Traditional bar-end shifters
• Rides well loaded or light
• A little sluggish when you need that extra speed for endurance bikepacking events
• Breaks have been known to freeze during winter
• Derailleur hanger is known to break slightly easier then others
• Have had issues with paint quality overtime

The Kona Sutra, my personal bike of choice, embodies the essence of a traditional touring bike while incorporating a 1x gravel drivetrain, a unique twist on the classic design. While the SE model maintains the frame of the Sutra LTD but stands out with its more versatile gear range. An especially notable feature is the stock Brooks saddle, a hallmark of comfort and quality.

On my own Kona Sutra LTD, I’ve managed to fit tires as large as 29×2.3″ without fenders, suggesting the potential for even broader options beyond the standard 700x40c Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires that it usually sports.

The detailed specifications below are tailored to the touring bike variant of the Kona Sutra. However, if you’re intrigued by the prospect of a build more suited to off-road adventures, I highly recommend reading our review of the Kona Sutra LTD .

This bike is astonishingly versatile. I frequently use mine on challenging mountain bike trails , and it’s proven its worth time and again, effortlessly handling jumps and rugged terrain. Its performance as a commuter is equally impressive, proving itself capable of handling a diverse range of conditions.

In comparison to its peers, like the Trek 520 and Surly LHT, the Kona Sutra boasts superior specifications on paper. It features a full Deore groupset and includes bar-end shifters, which add a touch of traditional touring aesthetic.

A bombproof, fun machine that can take you anywhere. Offering a smooth and comfortable ride, it stands out as a rock-solid choice for both enthusiasts and serious cyclists alike.

(A true Swiss Army knife for on-the-go travel bike)

Price: $2,399 CAD (about $2,747 AUD)

Weight :  13.15 kg (29 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – REYNOLDS 525  Steel Fork –  CUSTOM CR-MO 4130 Steel

Groupset & Drivetrain :  2×11 microSHIFT XLE, FSA – FSA OMEGA 2X MEGAEXO, 46/30T crank and MICROSHIFT XLE 11-42T cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.85″ to 111.81″ (0.71 to 4.18 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.55 chainstay 455mm – wheelbase 1,050mm – (steering) headtube angle 71.8 deg – trail 67mm – Fork offset/rake 50mm. Bottom bracket drop 76mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700c x 44mm With a max tire clearance 700c x 50

The Forillon by Panorama Cycles is a steel all-road touring bike that combines a mid-component range with a budget-friendly price, making it an ideal choice for adventurers looking to explore the world. This bike is designed for efficient riding across various road types and maintains stability and ease of handling even when fully loaded with luggage.

At its core, the Forillon is a testament to strength and reliability, a theme that is evident in its choice of components. It features 36 spoke double-walled rims with reinforced eyelets, paired with robust 700x50mm tires, ensuring durability and stability on diverse terrains. The frame and fork of the Forillon are constructed from high-quality materials, including Reynolds 525 steel tubeset and 4130 steel, known for their resilience and long-lasting performance.

The Forillon stands out with its integrated kickstand plate and a plethora of mounting options, which include front and rear racks, fenders, and triple cage mounts on the fork and under the downtube. These features make it an excellent choice for riders who require a bike that can carry substantial gear on extended tours.

Other noteworthy aspects of the Forillon include its low bottom bracket, long chainstays, and a 2×11 drivetrain, all contributing to a comfortable and stable ride.

The bike also boasts mechanical BB7 brakes and bar-end shifters as part of its well-rounded build kit. Additionally, the frame and fork are treated with an anti-corrosion internal ED coating, enhancing the bike’s durability.

The Forillon is not just about functionality; it also has an aesthetic appeal. The frame graphics, inspired by topographic maps and created by Vancouver-based artists Pellvetica, add a unique touch to the bike’s design.

Offered in three sizes and weighing 29 pounds for the medium build, the Forillon is available at a retail price of $2,149 CAD (approximately $1,675 USD) through PanoramaCycles.com. This bike is a reliable, versatile, and stylish choice for those looking to embark on long-distance, all-road touring adventures around the globe.

(The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike)

Price: Approx $6,000

Weight :  17.5 kg (38.6 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Aluminium Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore XT groupset or Rohloff drive belt

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.57 chainstay 477 mm – wheelbase 1,170 mm – (steering) headtube angle 69.5 deg – trail 82.4 mm – Fork offset/rake 50 mm. Bottom bracket drop 60 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : Possibility to mount tires up to 72mm wide

• Can be packed up to 120 kg
• Super stiff for touring
• Built for durability & serviceability
• Includes mini-kick stand on the front rack and other accessories
• Life time warranty on the frame
• More standard touring equipment then most bikes
• Top of the line components
• Dynamo hub and lighting system as standard.
• Not the lightest touring bike on the block
• Quite expensive then most

The KOGA Worldtraveller series, recognized for its robust and versatile trekking bikes, is an ideal choice for all kinds of cycling trips. These bikes are designed to comfortably carry all your essentials, whether you’re gliding over smooth asphalt or tackling rugged gravel roads.

A notable aspect of the series is its unique alloy build. Despite the current popularity of steel touring bikes, the alloy construction of the Worldtraveller provides a solid and reliable alternative.

This bike remains stable and performs smoothly under a touring load, even when outfitted with sensible width tires. This combination of strength and smooth ride quality sets the Worldtraveller apart in the realm of long-distance touring bikes.

The series has been recently updated, with the new WorldTraveller model featuring a total load capacity of 180 kg. It can accommodate tires up to 72mm wide, enhancing its suitability for various terrains. The integrated rear carrier and new frame design contribute to improved rigidity and cycling performance.

For those interested in an electric version, the E-WorldTraveller includes the Bosch Smart System and a 750Wh battery. Customization is a key feature of the range, offered through the KOGA Signature programme.

The Worldtraveller range comprises several models:

• The standard WorldTraveller, a versatile trekking bike with numerous attachment points for luggage.
• The E-WorldTraveller, an electric variant with a Bosch motor and 750Wh battery.
• The E-WorldTraveller Suspension model, featuring a suspension fork with 100mm travel.
• The Worldtraveller Classic, a proven model known for its reliability.
• The Worldtraveller-S, offering choices in front forks, groupsets, and drive belts.

KOGA also offers extensive customization options through their Signature programme, allowing riders to tailor their bike to their preferences. Test rides are available to prospective buyers, showcasing the bike’s capabilities.

Tout Terrain Silkroad II 275

(A Steel Expedition Dream!)

Price: From €5,349 / $5,835 USD or $8,711 AUD

Weight :  From 14 kg (30.09 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Rohloff drive belt

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.52 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,081 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 73 mm – Fork offset/rake 47 mm. Bottom bracket drop 60 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  27.5″x2.0″ / With a max tire clearance 26″ x 2.0″ (50mm) with mudguard, 27.5″ x 2.0″ (50mm) with mudguard, 700C x 42 mm with mudguard

• Steel frame and oversized tubing create a robust structure
• Suitable for various terrains and heavy loads
• Standard with Rohloff hub or belt drive
• Customisable
• High-end components and features contribute to a higher price point
• Limited tire clearance
• Limited availability in certain regions

The Tout Terrain Silkroad is a high-end touring bike designed by the German company Tout Terrain. Known for their specialization in steel bikes for about 15 years, Tout Terrain’s Silkroad incorporates several innovative features and is built for durability and versatility.

The bike’s frame is made from steel tubes manufactured and welded in Taiwan, chosen for their ability to be easily repaired and modified. The Silkroad frames are among the first to pass rigorous safety testing, supporting a combined weight of rider, bike, and luggage up to 180kg/400lb. The bike uses oversized, thick-wall tubing to build a strong structure, which is beneficial for carrying front and rear luggage.

Key features include a steering limiter to prevent cable damage, an integrated steering lock to stabilize the bike when parked, and the option for either double-legged or rear-mounted kickstands. The Silkroad also boasts an integrated stainless steel rear rack designed to be indestructible and compatible with both regular panniers and the specially designed QL3 system panniers.

For power and lighting, the Silkroad uses 12mm thru-axles front and rear for maximum stiffness and alignment, and incorporates SL dynamo wiring in the fork for powering lights and USB chargers. The lighting system features Schmidt lights and a dynamo hub, and a Cinq Plug5 Plus USB charger integrated into the steerer tube.

The bike is equipped with a 14-speed Rohloff hub for the drive system, known for its reliability and efficiency, especially in challenging conditions. It also features a belt drive, preferred for its low maintenance requirements. Hydraulic disc brakes provide reliable stopping power, and the bike allows for the use of up to 203mm rotors.

The Silkroad offers different wheel size options, with 27.5″ being recommended due to the availability of high-quality tires. The bike is also fitted with Tout Terrain’s in-house “Black Label” components and a Selle Royal saddle from the Scientia range.

(Classic Touring Bike Aesthetics)

Price: $1,499 USD / $2,240 AUD (Estimates)

Weight :  14.7 kg (32.4 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – 4130 double butted CrMo, heat-treated front triangle, TA sliding dropouts, rack/fender mounts . Fork –  4130 CrMo, TA, rack/fender mounts, internal hub dynamo cable routing

Groupset & Drivetrain :  BOMBTRACK AMES forged aluminium crank and MICROSHIFT CS-H103 10-speed, 11 – 42T cassette

Gear Ratios :  19.62″ to 115.53″ (0.71 to 4.18 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio 1.51 – chainstay 435mm – wheelbase 1,045 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg – trail 68mm – Fork offset/rake 55mm. Bottom bracket drop 70mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : With a max tire clearance of 700C x 40C / 700C x 35C with fender

• Includes dynamo, quality Tubus racks, and lighting for an affortable price
• Microshift bar-end shifters give you the seamless and classic touring bike feel and look
• Affortable price tag
• Only has 32 spokes on wheels
• The mudguards are know for being low quality and breaking
• The frame length is a little short, for that extra stability when under a load, shorter then most touring bikes.

Offering a blend of traditional touring design and modern components, all wrapped in an eye-catching metallic green color that is sure to turn heads.

At its core, the Arise Tour features a double-butted steel frameset known for its adaptability and resilience. Enhancing its touring capabilities are the Tubus touring racks and aluminum fenders, designed to handle all your storage needs while protecting you from the elements. Illumination for those early starts or late finishes is provided by a full lighting system from KT and Supernova, ensuring safety and visibility in all conditions.

The bike’s transmission system is built for reliability over long distances. It features Microshift’s ultra-reliable bar end shifters and a 10-speed clutch mechanism. The wide-range 11 – 42T cassette and a subcompact 46 / 30 chainset make for a versatile and efficient setup, ideal for tackling various terrains with ease.

When it comes to braking, the Arise Tour relies on TRP Spyre C mechanical calipers, coupled with a 180 mm rotor upfront. This setup offers controlled and effective braking, particularly important on those thrilling long descents.

Every component on the Arise Tour has been meticulously selected for its proven reliability and durability. The goal is to let you focus on the joy of riding, rather than worrying about bike maintenance.

FalkenJagd Hoplit +

(Pinion Titanium Touring Bike)

Price: €6,798 / $7,415 USD / $11,000 AUD

Weight :  17 kg (37.5 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Titanium Build

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Belt Drive

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  WTB Trail Boss 27.5 x 2.35″ / Clearance for 650b x 3″ or 29er x 2.6″

• High quality components made of titanium and almost everything on the bike is tianium not just frame and fork
• Copes well on all surfaces
• Ultimate touring bike build!
• Very expensive

The Falkenjagd Hoplit PI Plus is a standout travel and expedition bike, designed for those who seek durability and reliability on long bike trips. Named after the elite warriors of antiquity, this bike lives up to its name with its robust build and high-quality components.

At the heart of the Hoplit PI Plus is its titanium frame, known for being extremely stable, scratch, and corrosion-resistant. The frame design, featuring a longer head tube and a slightly shorter top tube, facilitates a more upright sitting position, optimal for touring.

A key aspect of its design is the lower bottom bracket, which, by lowering the center of gravity, especially when carrying luggage, results in improved stability.

The bike’s rear triangle is notably sturdy, with chainstays designed for increased tire clearance and comfort. The rear dropouts are a technological marvel, allowing for longitudinally adjustable quick-release axles to optimize belt tension, and incorporating an integrated stand holder and a strap lock.

The Hoplit PI Plus is equipped with the Pinion P1.18 gear hub and a low-maintenance Gates CDX toothed belt, ensuring a smooth and reliable ride. It can accommodate either 28 or 27.5-inch wheels, offering flexibility depending on the rider’s preference for smooth running or damping.

This bike is an all-terrain champion, providing maximum comfort even under high payloads, thanks to its wide tires. It stands out for its high-quality titanium components, including the frame, fork, spacers, stem, handlebars, seatpost, luggage rack, and bottle cage.

Other features include a SON hub dynamo and lighting, a comfortable Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, Falkenjagd Titan Axios racks, Pitlock thru axles with theft protection, Magura MT7 4-piston disc brakes, and SKS Bluemels B65 mudguards.

The Hoplit PI Plus version extends its capabilities with its ability to take tire widths up to 3.0 inches (650B) and 2.6″ (29″). It boasts specially adapted chainstays and rear dropouts, which are adjustable in length for optimal belt tension. The bike’s design also ensures neatly laid cable pulls and flat mudguard and light mounts for a secure and aesthetic finish.

Trek 520 Disc

(The Longest-Running Touring Bike On The Market)

Price: $1,829.99 USD

Weight :  14.2 kg (31.31 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Steel frame / Alloy fork – Trek butted chromoly disc touring, 135×5 mm QR, Tire Clearance: 2″, Color: Diablo Red and Alloy disc touring fork, rack mounts, 100×5 mm ThruSkew.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Alivio with 48/36/26T crankset and 9-speed 11-36T cassette.

Gear Ratios Inches :  19.79″ to 119.81″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.49 chainstay 450mm – wheelbase 1,048mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 65mm – Fork offset/rake 52mm. Bottom bracket drop 70mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  700x38c / With a max tire clearance 29 x 2″

• One of the most budget friendly options in the list
• Steel frame is rock solid and feels great
• Perfectly comfortable touring bike
• Long chainstays and a slack head-tube angle offer a stable, comfortable, semi-upright riding position, suitable for both touring and commuting.
• Trek’s history of producing the 520 model since 1983 adds to the trust in the brand and model.
• Frame is however a little on the heavier side
• Stock pedals suck (order replacements if you consider this bike)

The Trek 520 stands as a testament to durability and adventure in Trek’s lineup, holding the title of their longest-running model. This true touring bike is designed for those who yearn for long journeys, offering a perfect blend of stability and comfort through its touring-specific geometry.

With a sturdy steel frame paired with an aluminum fork, the Trek 520 balances strength with practicality, weighing in at a manageable 31.4 lbs / 14.2 kg. It’s equipped with both front and rear racks, ready to handle all the gear you might need for your adventures, making it an ideal choice for the avid tourer.

Renowned for its solid build and reliable performance, the Trek 520 has been field-tested and established as an industry standard. It’s a bike that’s not just ready for your next touring adventure but is also built to last, promising at least a decade of enjoyable riding experiences.

However, it’s important to note that this bike demands regular maintenance to remain in peak condition, particularly in keeping the drivetrain clean to avoid gear hopping. But this small trade-off is worth the exceptional experience it offers, especially considering its versatile gearing range that makes conquering hills feel effortless.

For those looking for even more versatility, the 520 Grand is also an option to consider. Excelling in bikepacking, trail riding, and handling a mix of gravel and pavement, it expands the horizons of where the Trek 520 can take you.

(A staple dirt tourer, just like its predecessor Long Haul Trucker)

Price: $ 1,749 USD or $2,600 AUD

Weight :  15.2 kg (33.5 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Frame – Surly Long Haul Trucker, 100% Surly 4130 CroMoly steel. Fork –  Surly Long Haul Trucker, 4130 CroMoly, lugged and brazed

Groupset & Drivetrain :  3 x 9 Alivio, Sora drivetrain. Shimano Alivio 48x36x26t crankset and Shimano Alivio, 11-34t, 9 speed cassette.

Gear Ratios :  19.42″ to 111.40″ (0.76 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach 1.58 ratio – chainstay 450mm – wheelbase 1,076mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 57mm – Fork offset/rake 45mm. Bottom bracket drop 50mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) : 26″ x 46mm With a max tire clearance for 26” x 2.1” tires with or without fenders, or 700c x 47mm with or without fenders

• The steel frame is robust
• 20-30mm taller frames and a 30mm taller handlebar, offer a more comfortable riding position.
• 10 frame sizes, catering to a wide range of rider heights
• Has the heritage of the LHT
• Toe overlap issues
• Not ideal for singletrack or technical trails due to its long wheelbase and less agile handling. (If you want to go off-road)
• No longer has the Shimano 3X10 bar-end shifters
• Smaller frame sizes have an increased standover
• The reduced chainstay length effects its capability as a touring bike
• It now has 32 spokes instead of 36
• No kickstand frame mounts
• A downgrade in drivetrain to Shimano Alivio from the previous Shimano XT
• The price has also increased

The Surly Disc Trucker, known for its reliability and no-nonsense approach, is a drop-bar steel touring bike. A staple among touring enthusiasts, this bike is recognized for its ability to handle long, loaded rides comfortably, though it doesn’t necessarily stand out in terms of its specifications.

Having personally ridden the Long Haul Trucker for thousands of kilometers, I can attest to its suitability as an excellent introduction to bicycle touring.

The 2021 model of the Disc Trucker however, sees some significant updates, including a taller frame and handlebar, additional tyre clearance, user-friendly STI shifters, and more mounting points, along with internal fork dynamo wiring and TRP Spyre brakes.

However, it loses some features like the Shimano 3X10 gearing and bar-end shifters. The Disc Trucker is well-suited for road travel and light off-road conditions but may not be the best choice for more technical or agile riding needs.

(Best Value for Money Touring Bike You Can Buy!)

Price: £1,299.99 / $1,650 USD or $2,463 AUD

Weight :  17.1 kg or 37.7 lbs

Frame/Fork Material : triple-butted aluminium

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano XT Trekking groupset – 26-36-48 triple chainring – (11-36) cassette

Gear Ratios :  18″ to 80″ (0.64 to 2.91 ratio)

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.47 chainstay 458 mm – wheelbase 1,096mm – (steering) headtube angle 71.5 deg – Bottom bracket drop 54 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  28 x 1.75″ tires / With a max tire clearance up to 29 x 2.4” (estimated)

• Can carry up to 170 kg
• 33 mounting points for various accessories and luggage
• Equipped with Shimano Deore XT and a Brooks B17 saddle (High quality components.)
• Integrated Dynamo Hub
• Lifetime Warranty on frame, suspension, stem, handlebars, and rack.
• Insane value – priced competitively with comprehensive features.
• Heavier at 17kg, which may affect maneuverability and speed.
• Basic Pedals and Grips may need upgrading
• USB charger effective only at higher speeds
• Potential issues with exposed wiring for lights
• Despite having a mount, a kickstand is not included
• Steering lock mechanism to prevent over-rotation may take getting used to

The Riverside Touring 900, by Decathlon, is a highly robust and versatile touring bicycle ideal for multi-day trips, commuting, and carrying heavy loads. A bombproof touring bike, along with the bikepacking friendly Touring 920. These bikes are ready for adventure and for unbeatable value. 

The 900’s key features include a strong and comfortable frame capable of carrying up to 170kg, internal cable routing, 33 mounting points for customization, and reliable Shimano Deore XT components. The bike is equipped with a Brooks B17 Imperial saddle, known for its comfort and durability, and TRP Spyke dual-piston mechanical disc brakes for reliable stopping power.

It also features a USB cycle-to-charge socket integrated into the stem for charging devices on the go, and robust aluminum mudguards. Before embarking on a major trip, it’s advisable to test the bike’s charger to ensure it meets your requirements. Consider whether you’ll need an extra power bank, as the charger requires extensive cycling to power your devices effectively. While it functions, its capacity is just sufficient for navigation purposes with the screen active.

However, it has a heavier frame at around 17kg. But if you don’t tour for speed that little extra weight shouldn’t bother you. And it comes with basic pedals and grips that might need upgrading for better comfort. But for the amount of touring bike you get you can’t beat it for value!

(Legendary Australian Touring / Expedition Bike)

Price: $6,600.00 AUD or $4,420 USD

Weight :  16.8kg (Estimated)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Double butted Cr-Mo touring frame and 1-1/8″ full Cr-Mo, threadless, mudguard, lowrider and electric cable mounts, through axle, steering stabiliser hook.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Andel crankset – BCD 130mm, 5 arm, 165/170/175mm, with FSA QR-1 self-extracting crank bolts. With Rohloff speedhub 500/14, 36H, CC DB, black, external transfer box, OEM axle plate, quick release

Gear Ratios :  extra low gear ratios down to 15.9″ to 83.6″ with options in between or traditional 20.0″ to 105.2″

Geometry (M) : Chainstay 464 mm – wheelbase 1,087mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 67 mm – Bottom bracket drop 75 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes:  Options for: 700C×40 (for road), 27.5 × 2.00 (for tracks), 27.5 × 2.80″ (all-rounders).

• Designed for minimal upkeep, ideal for long tours.
• Made from 4130 chromoly steel, offering stiffness and resilience, especially suitable for touring
• Superior mudguards, ergonomic handlebars, and intelligent dynamo light.
• Integrated rack and rear disc caliper, reducing the need for spacers and long bolts
• Comprehensive Tool and Spare Kit: Enhances self-sufficiency on long trips.
• One of the heavier touring bikes in this list
• Not the most beginner friendly bike – The comprehensive nature of the bike might be overwhelming for new cyclists.

The Vivente World Randonneur (VWR), particularly The Gibb model, stands as a pinnacle of touring and transportation bicycles in Australia. This bike, admired for its meticulous refinements over the years, now incorporates a series of desirable upgrades, culminating in a nearly perfect touring experience.

At its heart lies the Rohloff SpeedHub 500, a 14-speed hub gear known for its unparalleled range and reliability. While this hub adds to the cost and weight of the bike, its maintenance-free nature and durability make it a worthwhile investment for serious riders.

The bike’s 4130 chromoly steel frame ensures resilience and comfort, making it ideal for long rides. Its geometry is finely tuned for stability and ease of handling, enhancing the overall comfort during extended touring. The bike is also notable for its comprehensive tool and spare kit, ensuring riders are well-equipped for any situation.

The hydraulic disc brakes provide consistent stopping power, a crucial feature for safety and reliability. The dynamo-powered USB outlet is a thoughtful addition, allowing riders to charge devices on the go. While the bike may be somewhat daunting for beginners due to its complexity and the initial friction in new gears, its overall design is geared towards low maintenance and high performance.

(Entry Level Traditional Steel Touring Bike Design)

Price: USD $2,049 (About $3,211 AUD)

Weight :  12.25 kg (27 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Marrakesh Triple Butted CroMoly – BB Standard: BSA, 68mm, Threaded – Tire Clearance: 50c – Color: Gold

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Alivio – 11–36t, 9-speed cassette and 48/36/26t crank

Gear Ratios :  20″ to 121″ (0.72 to 4.36 ratio)

Geometry (55 cm) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.55 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,055 mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.8 deg – trail 64 mm – Fork offset/rake 55 mm. Bottom bracket drop 77 mm

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  Teravail Rampart 700c x 42 mm / With a max tire clearance 700c x 40mm tires with fenders and 29 x 2.0″ or Apparently you can run up to 27.5 x 2.6″ tires

• More then enough eyelets for storing gear
• Rohloff hub compatible drop out
• Very comfortable ride
• Traditional touring bikes design and aesthetics – bar-end shifters for example
• It comes with 42 mm tires but the minimum tire for fenders is 40 mm!
• Can only use the Salsa rear pannier rack due to how it attaches to the dropouts.
• The rear drop out swingplate is non-standard. A potential problem if it is damaged with limited access for parts
• The 2020 models in particular has paint chipping issues – even though it looks great
• Smaller frames may have limited space inside the frame for bikepacking frame bags and room for drink bottles
• Heel-striking is a potential issue on smaller frames

Made from a burly steel but heavy frame (not as heavy as some other bikes in this list) the Marrakesh offers a rock solid, stable and comfortable ride as you would expect in a touring bike.

With a dual capability for both off-road and on-road adventures. This bike is versatile enough for touring, commuting, or leisure riding, offering a comfortable experience across various terrains.

Despite its somewhat hefty build, the Marrakesh doesn’t compromise on maneuverability or performance. It comes equipped with front and rear racks, although fitting mudguards requires a slight reduction in tire width from the stock 42 mm tires to a maximum of 40mm. 

The bike’s solid construction is further complemented by a reliable Shimano Alivio groupset, Microshift bar-end traditional touring bike shifters, and TRP Spyre-C disc brakes. Additionally, its wheels and tires are tubeless-ready, enhancing its off-road capabilities.

However, a notable concern for potential owners, particularly those with smaller frame sizes, is the chainstay design. The positioning of the rack is forward by about 20-30mm compared to other models, which impacts the bike’s handling, making it more akin to a shorter gravel bike when loaded.

This setup also raises the possibility of heel strike, a drawback that could affect the bike’s overall appeal as a touring option.

(The Most Budget Friendly Option In This List)

Price From: $1,590 + USD

Weight :  15.6 kg (34.40 lbs)

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Tiagra

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.52 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,083mm – (steering) headtube angle 71 deg – trail 56 mm – Fork offset/rake 55 mm. Bottom bracket drop 75 mm

Tire Clearance:  700x35mm, with fenders, but the frame can accomodate 700x38mm without.

• 36 spoke wheels – strong for bicycle touring
• High quality Busch und Müller lights
• Well-balanced geometry ensures a stable yet responsive ride.
• Budget friendly option
• The Sunnywheel fenders might be a little narrow
• Limited tire clearance only up to 38 mm
• At 15.6kg, it might be considered heavy for some riders
• Not as capable off-road thanks to limited tire clearance

The UK-designed Genesis Tour de Fer 30, drawing inspiration from its sibling, the popular Croix de Fer, stands out as a remarkable blend of innovation and tradition in the world of touring bikes. This model is unique for its slightly longer build than most other touring bikes, providing an added level of stability and comfort for those extensive journeys.

But is it really a “Do-It-All Tourer?” With limited tire clearance, therefore limited off road capabilities it is better suited to traditional road only touring.

At the heart of the Tour de Fer 30 is the reliable Reynolds 725 steel frame, noted for its strength and relative lightness, making it a dependable companion for long-distance travels. The bike’s design is complemented by a chromoly steel fork with quick-release dropouts, further enhancing its durability and resilience.

A standout feature of this touring bike is its high-quality Busch und Müller lighting system, powered by a dynamo hub. These lights not only offer superior illumination for safer riding but also add a touch of sophistication to the bike’s overall design.

The shifting and drivetrain responsibilities are adeptly handled by Shimano’s Tiagra groupset, which includes a triple chainset offering a wide range of gears, ideal for tackling diverse terrains and steep inclines. The 10-speed cassette ensures low-maintenance, consistent performance, a crucial factor for long tours.

In terms of braking, the Tour de Fer 30 is equipped with TRP’s Spyre cable disc brakes, known for their consistent and sufficient stopping power. While they may not be as powerful as hydraulic brakes, their ease of maintenance, especially in remote locations, makes them a practical choice for touring.

The bike rides on robust Sun Ringlé Rhyno Lite rims and is fitted with the legendary Schwalbe Marathon tyres, renowned for their durability and puncture resistance. This combination ensures a smooth and reliable ride across various surfaces.

Finishing touches include Genesis branded components like a 27.2mm seatpost, a flared handlebar for comfortable handling, and a saddle designed for long rides. Practical features such as full-length mudguards, bottle cages, and spacious racks (including a Tubus Tara low-rider front rack and an AtranVelo Tour 365 rear rack) enhance its functionality for touring and commuting alike.

(The Most AFFORDABLE Touring Bike At the Time of Writing!)

Price: 1,699.00 NOW ONLY $1,358.93 USD

Weight :  13.61 kg (30 lbs)

Frame/Fork Material : Full Steel Build – Double-butted chromoly steel and Chromoly steel fork with 15mm thru-axle.

Groupset & Drivetrain :  Shimano Deore, 48/36/26T crank and 10 speed 11-34T cassette.

Gear Ratios :  21″ to 120″

Geometry (M) : Stack/Reach ratio – 1.54 chainstay 455 mm – wheelbase 1,054mm – (steering) headtube angle 70.5 deg

Tires and Wheel Sizes (Tire Clearance) :  Schwalbe Marathon with puncture protection 700 x 38mm / With a max tire clearance up to 50mm

• Reliable Shimano Deore and Deore LX parts for the drivetrain
• Double-butted chromoly steel frame provides stability and a smooth ride
• Can support up to 300 lbs. including rider and gear (140 kg)
• Comes with spare spokes
• Getting on the heavier side but mid range weight compared to other bikes in this list.
• Tight clearance for fenders
• You could question the practicality of hydraulic disc brakes for touring bikes

The Co-op Cycles ADV 1.1 emerges as a robust and reliable touring bike, well-suited for long-distance journeys and heavy-duty touring. A very suitable bike for tackling steep inclines with heavy loads, which is what you want in a touring bike.

Its double-butted chromoly steel frame ensures a stable and comfortable ride, even under heavy loads, and the bike can support up to 300 lbs. The combination of a Shimano Deore crankset and Deore LX rear derailleur, along with the Tektro HY/RD hydraulic disc brakes, underscores its focus on durability and performance.

The bike is particularly noted for its excellent performance on long tours, with users reporting successful journeys over thousands of kilometers. It is equipped with puncture-resistant Schwalbe Marathon tires and comes with custom front and rear racks for carrying essential gear. An ultra-low gear option is also available, making it easier to navigate steep terrains.

However, some riders have noted the bike’s weight as a potential drawback, particularly when compared to lighter adventure options. There are some concerns about the practicality and maintenance of the hydraulic disc brakes for touring purposes.

Comparing These Bikes

Below, I’ve compiled a table featuring key information for each bike, making it easier for you to compare and decide which one best suits your needs. I hope this helps!

Why You Should Trust Cycle Travel Overload’s Advice

Hey I’m Codey Orgill and have been exploring this world by bicycle for over 8 years now! I have a long history with touring bikes, first being introduced to the world of bicycle travel with a classic Novara Randonee touring bike, then a Surly Long Haul Trucker and I now ride the Kona Sutra Touring Bike .

I have ridden my bikes across 10+ countries so far and a lot of trips where I live here in Australia! Lover of bikes and so passionate about researching, riding, and writing 🙂 about adventure-focused bicycles. That’s why I started this blog ! Have helped over 1 million people find, compare, and decide on their dream adventure bike! Nothing means more to me than getting more people out into the world on two wheels!

What Makes A Good Touring Bike? Criteria For Choosing These Bikes

First I wanted to focus on mostly more traditional touring bikes in this list. As I plan to put together a updated guide for off-road touring bikes better suited for bikepacking type adventures.

Comfortable and Stable Geometry & Design: A top priority was the bike’s geometry. We looked for models with a long wheelbase, (average touring bike wheelbase: 1050 to 1070mm) and chainstay to ensure sufficient heel clearance during pedaling, (average touring bike chainstay: 445 to 470mm) and to accommodate rear panniers. The ideal geometry also contributes to a stable center of gravity, enhancing balance and creating a smoother ride. Additionally, a front center of (around 600 millimeters) is ideal for toe clearance and compatibility with front panniers, a typical setup for world-spanning adventures. For predictability and more stable steering a 60 to 70 mm trail is ideal!

Upright Riding Position : An upright riding position is crucial for comfort during long tours. We sought a stack-to-reach ratio of about 1.5 or higher to avoid a hunched-over posture, reducing back strain over extended periods.

Gear Ratio : The gear range was another vital factor. We looked for bikes with a broad spectrum of gears, especially low-end ratios for climbing with a heavy setup. Ideal bikes offer gearing as low as 18 inches for steep ascents and up to 120 inches for comfortable descents, accommodating various touring conditions. However if you are doing lighter touring and commuting, typically up to a 25 inch low gear is a pass, but not for fully load adventures.

Wheels and Components : Quality components are non-negotiable for durability and performance. We ensured that each bike had robust components unlikely to fail during extended tours. Wheel strength is vital, so we preferred bikes with a high spoke count, ideally 36 spokes to support the weight of a fully loaded touring setup. But some of the lighter touring bikes or not so good build quality bikes may have 32 spokes which isn’t ideal.

Weight Considerations : While weight is a factor, it’s less critical in touring bikes. Most selected bikes weigh around 13 to 15 kilograms or heavier, standard for this category. With added gear, this weight increases significantly, but our focus was more on reliability than lightness.

Other Considerations: The bike’s load capacity is a pivotal feature, with higher capacities being more advantageous. Ideally, a robust touring bike should be able to support a total weight ranging from 130 to 180 kg. Additionally, factors like frame stiffness and the configuration of the kickstand are also important considerations for these types of bikes.

What Are Touring Bikes? The Different Types of Touring Bikes

Touring bikes can be broadly categorised into four distinct types, each tailored to different touring needs and preferences. While there are even more nuances within these categories, this classification provides a solid foundation for understanding the diverse range of touring bikes available in the market.

Traditional or Classic Touring Bikes

Traditional or classic touring bikes are built to be tough and withstand the rigors of long, continuous cycling over days, months, or even years. Unlike road bikes, these are designed with a focus on durability and stability. Typically made from steel, these bikes feature an upright geometry, longer chainstays, and are often equipped with fenders and a rear rack for panniers. The wheels are usually 700c with a high spoke count (32 or 36-hole) to endure the demands of bike touring. While classic touring bikes traditionally had rim brakes, mechanical disc brakes are becoming more common in this category. Both flat and drop bars are seen on these bikes, which often have a vintage look, as their design emphasizes functionality and longevity over aesthetic changes.

When discussing traditional touring bikes, the Novara Randonee instantly springs to mind as the quintessential example. With its bar-end shifters, classic steel frame, and comfortable touring geometry, it embodies everything a touring bike should be. This bike holds a special place in my heart as my first introduction to the world of bicycle travel. I’m eternally grateful to both the bike and Eric, the generous legend who gifted it to me. Thanks, mate!

Expedition Touring Bikes

Expedition touring bikes are designed for epic, long-duration trips, such as around-the-world adventures. Made primarily from steel for robustness and ease of repair, these bikes typically feature 26-inch wheels and rim brakes. The choice of these components is strategic, as they make it easier to repair and replace parts, even in remote corners of the globe. These bikes are built for resilience and are capable of carrying all essentials for extended journeys, making them a top choice for serious long-term touring enthusiasts.

These bikes are quite similar to traditional touring bikes but offer even more adventure focused components and parts as standard like kick stands, Dynamo hubs and light setups, and trekking bars or flat swept back alt bars are often more common on these bikes for that extra comfort in the saddle. The Koga WorldTraveller is a perfect example of this category of bike.

Adventure Touring Bikes

Adventure touring bikes or off-road touring bikes are crafted for rougher terrains, such as loose dirt, single tracks, and off-road wilderness paths, making them ideal for exploring less-traveled roads. These bikes are essentially a blend of road and mountain bikes. They usually come with drop bars and either mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes, offering strong stopping power for diverse conditions. Adventure bikes can accommodate a variety of wheel sizes and have clearance for wider tires. Many models are also equipped to handle dropper posts, adding to their versatility for different types of terrain.

For example, the Tumbleweed Prospector is engineered for supreme reliability and performance in rugged terrains. Its design eschews trendy materials for durability, particularly excelling with the Rohloff SPEEDHUB, an internally geared drivetrain known for its resilience in diverse conditions, from deserts to snowy mountains. Unique features like the Phil Wood eccentric bottom bracket and custom cast dropouts, coupled with a design focused on maximum mud and tire clearance, make the Prospector a top choice for adventurous global expeditions.

Light touring or gravel touring bikes are similar to gravel bikes in that they offer the flexibility for both on-road and off-road use, but with the added functionality of eyelets for attaching racks. They are designed for carrying lighter loads and are more suited for shorter bike tours or bikepacking trips. Generally lighter in weight than traditional touring bikes, they provide a versatile and adaptable solution for cyclists who prefer a mix of on and off-road experiences. These bikes are often interchangeable with gravel bikes, focusing on a balance between lightness, flexibility, and durability.

In this category, the distinction between gravel and touring bikes becomes more nuanced, existing on a spectrum. Some gravel bikes are adeptly equipped for touring and off-road adventures , thanks to their tire clearance, touring-inspired geometry, and build quality. Others, however, are better suited for lightweight touring, with their capabilities leaning more towards smooth roads or light gravel paths due to certain limitations in design and gearing. This diversity means that while some models excel in rugged conditions, others are ideal for less demanding journeys. A good example of a lighter touring bike would be something like the Fuji Touring Disc or the Salsa Journeyer.

How To Choose A Touring Bike

When it comes to choosing the perfect touring bike, understanding your specific needs and priorities is key to narrowing down your options and making an informed buying decision. Every touring bike offers a unique combination of features, and what works for one cyclist might not suit another. By focusing on what is most important for your touring experience, you can filter through the plethora of choices and find a bike that aligns perfectly with your requirements.

1. Prioritize Your Touring Environment : Are you planning to ride mostly on smooth roads, rugged trails, or a combination of both? The terrain you expect to encounter is a primary factor in determining the type of touring bike you need. For instance, if off-road adventures are your main focus, a bike with sturdy tires and a durable frame, like an adventure touring bike, will serve you well. On the other hand, if you’re sticking to paved roads, a traditional touring bike with smoother tires would be more appropriate.

2. Comfort vs. Performance : Long-distance touring demands comfort, especially if you’re spending several hours a day on the bike. Consider bikes with a geometry that offers an upright riding position, reducing strain on your back and shoulders. However, if speed and performance are more important to you, a bike with a more aggressive geometry might be preferable.

3. Load Capacity and Accessories : Assess how much gear you need to carry. If you’re planning a self-supported tour with lots of luggage, look for a bike with a high load capacity, robust racks, and multiple mounting points. Conversely, if you prefer light touring with minimal gear, a bike with fewer rack options but a lighter frame might be better.

4. Maintenance and Durability : If you’re touring in remote areas, consider the ease of repair and maintenance of the bike. Bikes with simpler, more robust components are easier to fix on the road. The bike’s durability also plays a crucial role, especially in challenging conditions.

5. Budget Considerations : Set a realistic budget and stick to it. Higher-priced bikes usually offer better quality and more features, but there are also great mid-range and budget options that can meet your needs effectively.

Panniers for Touring Bikes

Much like the diverse range of touring bikes available, the market is also rich with various styles of panniers to suit different touring needs. Whether you’re setting off on an extensive cross-country adventure or planning a brief weekend escape, selecting the appropriate panniers can greatly elevate your experience. In this article, we delve into the world of panniers, offering insights into robust touring options, streamlined micro bikepacking choices, and minimalist solutions for those who favor a lighter setup.

What About Specific Touring Bike Handlebars and Saddles?

When embarking on bike touring or bikepacking, comfort is paramount, especially considering the main body contact points with your bike. A crucial aspect of this comfort is finding the right handlebars, which can greatly impact your experience over the many miles ahead. This article focuses on what to look for in touring handlebars and presents some of the best options available.

Choosing the right saddle for your bike touring or bikepacking adventure is a decision that can significantly affect your comfort on long rides. In our latest article, we address the essentials of bike saddle comfort and how to select a saddle that reduces discomfort for extended periods in the saddle.

A comfortable bike saddle is crucial, especially when you’re planning to spend days, or even months, pedaling across diverse landscapes. It’s not just about picking any saddle; it’s about finding the one that fits your unique body shape and riding style. We explore the factors that contribute to saddle comfort, from shape and size to materials and design.

Are Touring Bikes Good For Commuting?

Touring bikes are a great option for commuting due to their unique combination of durability, comfort, and carrying capacity.

Designed for long distances and varied terrains, these bikes are robust enough to withstand the daily wear and tear of urban travel, ensuring longevity.

he upright and relaxed geometry of touring bikes offers significant comfort, which is crucial for daily commutes, especially over longer distances.

This design effectively reduces strain on the back, neck, and shoulders. One of the key advantages of touring bikes for commuters is their ability to carry loads. Equipped with racks and multiple mounting points, they are ideal for transporting work essentials, groceries, or other personal items. Want to use a touring bike for commuting?

While touring bikes are versatile and perform well on different surfaces, making them suitable for various commuting routes, they are generally heavier than road bikes.

This might not be ideal for those who need to frequently carry their bike.

Additionally, they might not be as fast as road bikes, which could be a consideration for those with longer commutes seeking speed.

Moreover, the focus on durability and functionality often makes touring bikes more expensive than some basic commuter bikes.

Despite these considerations, touring bikes offer a reliable, comfortable, and practical solution for daily commuting, balancing efficiency and stability, especially when carrying loads.

Other Touring Bike Reads

• The Tips, 67 bike travellers wish they knew earlier – Beginner Bike Touring Advice
• Best Bike Touring and Bikepacking Handlebars – Everything You Need to Know
• Gravel Bike For Touring – 6 Best Gravel Bikes For Touring!
• 12 Best Front Bike Racks For Touring & Bikepacking
• Best Off-Road Adventure Touring Bikes 2024
• Best Flat Bar Touring Bikes & Expedition Bikes
• Best Touring Bike Kickstands & Everything You Need To Know

About The Author

Codey Orgill, a seasoned bicycle adventurer, has been exploring the world on two wheels for over 10 years. Since embarking on his initial cycling journey, Codey Orgill has traversed numerous countries, experiencing a series of epic adventures.

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Best touring bikes: Machines for old-school, long distance riding

The best touring bikes to load up for the long haul or just for local load-lugging

• How to choose

The best touring bikes are designed to be loaded up for comfortable long-distance riding, but they're also a robust, reliable option for local riding with a load or just for commuting .

They're a bit old school now, with bikepacking being the trendy fast and light way to ride far, either on one of the best endurance bikes or the best gravel bikes . The availability and range of models reflect that trend, although touring bikes still offer a great way to see the world.

They're built strong, often with a steel frame and fork and have reliable wheels with plenty of spokes for strength, as well as a wide gear range, which may be via a triple chainset with a smaller range of "speeds" in the cassette or hub gear. Expect an upright ride position and comfortable touchpoints.

Luggage is normally carried in panniers and bags attached to a rear rack, often supplemented by a front rack, as well as a bar bag. Mudguards are also normal, making riding more comfortable in all weathers, while multiple bottle cages mean that you can keep hydrated even when you're far from a tap.

Below, you'll find our pick of the best touring bikes and below that is our buyer's guide to how to choose the best touring bike for you.

Best touring bikes: our picks

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

This Genesis touring bike option comes fully loaded, with front and rear racks, lights and a bottle cage, while its 35mm wide tyres give a comfortable ride. There's a Shimano Tiagra triple chainset, which gives a total of thirty gear ratios, which head below 1:1 for loaded climbing. 

Read more below

Another steel-framed tourer with many of the extras you'll need already there. The Kona Sutra has a high ride position and is equipped with a Brooks leather saddle for a retro touring vibe, although the disc brakes and wide gear range keep it up to date.

Yet another steel-framed option with front and rear racks and an upright ride, the Salsa Marrakesh has 3x9-speed gearing and mechanical disc brakes. Its 42mm Teravail tyres should provide comfort and grip wherever you travel.

Another long-haul steel model, the Disc Trucker has a very upright ride position thanks to its riser stem and yet more rise to its bars. A triple chainset that goes as low as a 26x34t ratio helps with long rides over steep roads.

With 42mm WTB Resolute tyres, the Marin Four Corners is a bike that can handle poor road conditions. The steel frame and fork are robust, while the triple chainset, nine-speed gearing and mechanical disc brakes should prove reliable. 

The Giant Toughroad takes a slightly different tack from most touring bikes, with flat bars, an alloy frame and carbon fork. Its 50mm wide tyres and very wide gear range equip it for off-road adventures.

Best touring bikes

1. genesis tour de fer 30, specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The Genesis Tour De Fer is a great option in this category. It's a top all-round bike, featuring a solid steel frame, durable tyres, disc brakes and all the practicalities such as three bottle cages, front and rear racks, mudguards and dynamo-powered lights.

Simply put, this is a bike ready for whatever you need to do straight away, whether it's commuting, leisure riding or touring. The bike offers an easy, calm ride, and is comfortable enough to get on and go right away.

35mm Schwalbe Marathon tyres come as standard, with their puncture-proof reputation. The Shimano Tiagra triple groupset gives you plenty of range including a sub-1:1 ratio to haul your loaded bike up the hills. You might need that range, with the extra features adding significantly to the bike's weight though.

2. Surly Disc Trucker

Another do-anything bike, the Disc Trucker features a sturdy and good-looking steel frame and fork. It is, however, more suited to road riding than exploring gravel and mud, though it's not to say that you can't tackle gravel tracks with it. The rise to the bars, paired with a long head tube gives a comfortable all-day ride position.

Mounts for three bottles, a pump, and mudguards add to the practicality, while the tyre clearance will let you get some meaty rubber in there. Surly quotes 2.1" tyre clearance on 650b wheels and the smaller frame sizes come specced with this wheel size for better toe clearance.

A Shimano Alivio MTB triple groupset with Sora road shifters provides steady and reliable 9-speed shifting, although it's quite a low end spec. Like the Genesis and the Trek, the Disc Trucker relies on TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes for reliable, low-maintenance stopping power.

3. Giant Toughroad SLR 1

What do you get when you combine a mountain bike, a touring bike and a gravel bike? No, this isn't the start of one of your dad's jokes, you get the impressively capable Toughroad SLR 1. More suited to the offroad than any of the bikes we've looked at so far, Giant calls it a do-it-all bike capable of commuting, but make no mistake, it's built primarily for dirt and gravel.

There's no suspension fork, but the giant 50mm tyres are a dead giveaway. An 11-42 MTB cassette on the back will also help with tackling the steep stuff, although there's not the absolute range of the triple chainsets on the bikes above. Pannier racks front and back and three bottle cage mounting points mean you can pile on whatever you need to take with you.

There are plenty of modern features on the bike, including thru-axles, hydraulic brakes, and tubeless tyres. A reliable Giant wheelset and Shimano Deore groupset round off this bike. You might find the lack of variation in hand position with the flat bar configuration gets tiring on longer rides though.

4. Kona Sutra

The first thing to strike you about the Sutra is its retro features; the Brooks leather saddle and steel frame give a different look to many of the bikes we've looked at. Disc brakes and thru-axles remind you that this is a thoroughly modern bike, though.

It's another bike for touring and commuting on the road and on some gravel/dirt surfaces. Mudguards and front and rear pannier racks are included, while there are other bosses for more additions if needed.

The 10-speed Shimano GRX gravel groupset with Tiagra shifters gives plenty of range, although not as much as a triple like that specified on the Trek, while the hybrid hydraulic/cable-operated brakes should give a bit more stopping power than the TRP Spyre cable brakes specced elsewhere, they are more of a faff to maintain though. It's a classy-looking bike that can work well anywhere.

5. Salsa Marrakesh

A great-looking steel frame is the first thing to catch the eye on this bike, while the fat 42mm tyres give a signal as to its intentions. It's as comfortable off-road as on, whether you're touring, commuting or just riding for fun.

As with the bikes above, front and rear racks are included, though if you want to add mudguards, be warned that the wide tyres will need to go on a diet ­– down to a 40mm maximum.

It's a solid entry into the touring selection, even if it is a bit on the weighty side, however, though not so much that you'll be struggling under the weight. Components include a Shimano Alivio groupset with Microshift shifters as well as TRP Spyre-C disc brakes and wheels and tyres ready to be set up tubeless.

6. Marin Four Corners

The Marin Four Corners is part tourer, part gravel bike. It's got the clearance for really wide tyres on 650b wheels (which is the stock wheel size specced on smaller-sized frames), but you can also set it up for a more traditional touring configuration with 700c wheels.

The steel frame is bombproof while the long head tube gives an upright ride position so you've got plenty of visibility all around. There are mounts for a rack, mudguards and to lash extra kit to the fork legs, so you can load up to head into the unknown. It's a bike more geared to gravel than the road, unlike the more traditional tourers like the Kona and the Genesis.

7. Trek 520

Marketed as a bike for long-haul travel, the Trek 520 is the longest-running bike in Trek's stable, although its days look to be numbered. The 520 is no longer sold in the UK or US, but international buyers in some countries still have a choice of two specs on Trek's site, including the Sora/Alivio option above.

Like the Genesis, the Trek 520 comes with front and rear racks, although you'll have to add mudguards for all-weather use. Small updates include mechanical disc brakes with a thru-axle alloy fork, while the 9-speed Shimano Sora gearing provides massive range from its triple chainset, albeit with quite large jumps across the 11-36 tooth cassette.

It's also nice to see tubeless-ready wheels specced (although not the tyres), so you can set up tubeless, which should up dependability on long rides. 

How to choose the best touring bike for you

Whether you're looking for a practical way to get to work, want that extra durability so that your bike will stand the test of time or want to travel to far-flung corners of the earth with nothing but a tent and a change of clothes, a touring bike a great addition to your stable of steeds. 

You can still get around quickly – whether you're hitting the roads, gravel paths or other rough terrain – but plenty of space for mudguards and racks, as well as a more relaxed position, make a touring bike a better all-round option than a road bike, a hybrid or a mountain bike. 

The relaxed geometry and more upright riding position are also handy for commuting, and the best touring bikes are often built with durable, easy-to-maintain components so they can be fixed when hundreds of miles away from a bike shop. This lends itself to fewer mechanicals and lower running costs. Steel frames also have a far better chance of being repaired all over the world compared to aluminium or carbon fibre if you're on a big trip.

What types of touring bike are there?

Touring bikes can range anywhere from predominantly road-going bikes with horizontal top tubes and 700c tyres, to rugged mountain bikes with knobbly mountain bike tyres. 

What the best touring bikes tend to share, however, is a durable design, comfortable geometry and the ability to carry luggage. Some opt for bikepacking bags , which usually consist of frame bags and oversized saddle bags, whereas others opt for the traditional rack and pannier bag method of carrying luggage. 

As with any bike purchase, consider the riding you plan to do with the bike. For those looking to travel far and wide, a bike with more luggage-carrying capacity will be preferred. For those who are looking to travel off-road, look for a bike that can handle the rough stuff. Live in the mountains? Look for a wide gear range. 

What's different about touring bike geometry?

Touring bike frames feature a relaxed geometry , with a taller head tube and shorter top tube for a comfortable and more upright riding position compared to a racing road bike. In addition to this, they feature a longer wheelbase, which keeps the bike stable even when loaded with heavy luggage. Since they're designed to be cycled over long distances, they're equally designed to stay comfortable for as long as possible.

If you're a geometry nerd you may notice the trail is a little lower than you'd expect for a relaxed ride, but this is often done to counteract the slowing effect on the steering of a heavy front load to avoid the bike feeling like a barge when laden.

Which gearing should a touring bike have?

Gearing-wise, what you should pick really depends on what type of riding you'll be doing. If you're taking on hills regularly, then you'll want a cassette with larger sprockets on the back. Some touring bikes offer a triple chainset too, with easier gearing on offer compared to a double chainset. The addition of extra gear combinations into the mix will add an extra component to maintain, so those on flatter terrain might prefer a single chainring at the front.

The majority of touring bikes offer standard external gear systems – the chainset, chain and cassette we're all used to. Some do have internal gearing though, with an enclosed rear gearbox which requires a lot less maintenance and is less prone to damage but is heavier and will cost you more. Belt drives are also available – this is a multi-tooth belt instead of a chain, so no regular cleaning or lubrication is required. Hub gears like the Rohloff system are favoured by riders taking on huge worldwide tours for their durability. 

Should I look for rim brakes or disc brakes?

As with much of the cycling world, rim brakes and disc brakes are both available, with rim brakes found more often on lower-end bikes. Rim brakes feature two pads grabbing onto the wheel rims to stop the bike, while disc brakes grip onto a separate rotor on the wheels instead.

Disc brakes feature better and more consistent braking performance, which is useful for a heavily laden bike, and are better in wet weather, though. Both adjustment and maintenance are far easier with rim brakes, however, with an Allen key and some new pads all you really need.

Rim brakes will wear down your rim eventually, prompting a rim swap and wheel rebuild or a new wheel. Whereas that's not an issue with disc brakes, and there's more leeway to keep riding with a buckled disc brake wheel or a broken spoke.

Hydraulic disc brakes are generally maintenance-free in operation, however, if you snag your brake hose on a tree in the middle of the Atlas Mountains, there's little chance of repair unless you packed a bleed kit and spare hose. 

What should I look for in touring bike contact points?

Saddles are an important factor, being the main point of contact with your body. Padded saddles may look more comfortable but looks can be deceiving, with thinner padding usually better for you once you've gotten used to it after a few rides. Saddles should support your sit bones, and additional padding can move the pressure elsewhere and rub more, making things more uncomfortable over time.

If you're planning a long trip and already have a saddle that you like, it may be worth swapping out the saddle that comes with the bike, if you're not sure how comfortable it will be for the long haul.

On a multi-day trip, handlebars need to be comfortable as well. Some bars have a slight rearward sweep, which can feel more natural when riding on the tops. A shallow drop is likely to be more comfortable to use as well.

Which pedals should I choose?

It's worth choosing pedals wisely too. While the best road bike pedals give good power transfer, the best cycling shoes that work with them are difficult to walk in, which could be an issue if touring or even for a trip to the shops.

On the other hand, flat pedals may make it difficult to keep your feet well-positioned for longer rides. They will allow you to use standard shoes, which are easier to walk in, but unless the soles are relatively stiff, your pedalling will be less efficient and you may get foot ache after a long day riding without adequate support.

Gravel bike pedals are a good option, as they still let you clip in for more efficient riding, but the cleats are recessed on the sole of the shoes and so can be walked in much more easily. You'll need gravel shoes to go with them that accept two-bolt cleats. These will have soles designed for efficient pedalling and foot support, but most are not too stiff to walk in comfortably.

Alternatively, some of the best commuter cycling shoes also allow you to fit two-bolt cleats.

You can learn more about the pros and cons of two-bolt versus three-bolt pedals in our explainer.on Shimano SPD vs SPD-SL systems.

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Paul has been on two wheels since he was in his teens and he's spent much of the time since writing about bikes and the associated tech. He's a road cyclist at heart but his adventurous curiosity means Paul has been riding gravel since well before it was cool, adapting his cyclo-cross bike to ride all-day off-road epics and putting road kit to the ultimate test along the way. Paul has contributed to Cyclingnews' tech coverage for a few years, helping to maintain the freshness of our buying guides and deals content, as well as writing a number of our voucher code pages. 

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What’s The Best Touring Bike? (2024 Edition)

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Touring bike buying advice is a popular topic, so I update this post regularly to keep the details current. If you find any out-of-date information, consider leaving a comment to let me know. Thanks!

Choosing a new touring bike can be pretty stressful for a newcomer to cycle touring – especially when you start looking at the price tags. 

So it’s no surprise the most common question I’ve been asked in 18 years of running this blog is some version of the following:

“Help! What’s the best touring bike for my upcoming cycle tour?”

It’s a perfectly understandable question to ask, because there are a lot of options out there – but answering it calls for a bit of context .

Your choice of touring bike should be mainly informed not by online reviews or paid-for content by sponsored bloggers, but by the kind of tour you’re planning, your unique physiology , your riding preferences as a touring cyclist, and – an oft-forgotten factor – what bikes are geographically available to you.

So the “best touring bike” for a young Brit planning a low-budget tour in Europe would be totally different to the “best touring bike” for an experienced American planning a once-in-a-lifetime, multi-year adventure from Prudhoe Bay to Tierra del Fuego.

Similarly, the best bike for a rider measuring 5 feet (152cm) tall, who also has reduced neck mobility, would be different to the best bike for a fitness enthusiast trying to win a bikepacking race like the Tour Divide.

And if you ask fellow cycle tourers on forums like Reddit what they think is the best touring bike, the answers will inevitably reflect what’s worked best for them , not what’ll work best for you.

(Yes, I am a fellow cycle tourer, but I’m not just going to tell you what touring bike I ride, any more than I’m going to tell you what colour pants I’m wearing!)

Simply put, there are diverse answers to the question of what is the “best touring bike”.

Luckily, touring bicycles are a mature product with decades of heritage. And despite the the confusion created by the rise of bikepacking as an industry buzz-word , there are still plenty of good commercial touring bikes on the market today. These are bikes that have been designed to meet the needs of a broad range of touring cyclists, and are readily available through local bike shops and dealership networks around the world.

In this post, we’re going to take a look at the best of them. The list below showcases some of the most time-proven touring bikes being made and sold in 2024, across the full spectrum of budgets, as well as a few lesser-known models to demonstrate what touring bikes for riders with specialist requirements might look like.

Perhaps you’ll find your perfect touring bike here. Perhaps you’ll realise you’re looking for something else altogether. Or perhaps you’ll find something more interesting to read among everything else I’ve written about cycle touring and bikepacking.

This is not an exhaustive list of every single touring bike on the market.

I’m a veteran bicycle traveller with 18 years of real-world experience, and my goal is to help you make the right choice , not to churn out AI-written spam to get on the front page of Google and generate affiliate commission.

My hope is to give you a taste of the diversity of touring bikes available today, rather than overwhelming you with unexplained jargon and things to click on. The journey of buying a new touring bike is not a short one. Reading this post will just be the beginning!

The list of touring bikes below is arranged in ascending price order. I’ve mentioned the worldwide availability of each bike, roughly speaking, and the manufacturer-suggested retail price (MSRP, aka: RRP or list price) in £/€/$ as applicable.

Cube Touring

Decathlon riverside touring 520, fuji touring ltd/disc ltd, ridgeback expedition, ridgeback panorama, surly disc trucker, oxford bike works expedition.

• More rider-recommended touring bikes
• Bonus: The secret to actually choosing the right touring bike

(Many good touring bikes previously on this list have been discontinued, including the Adventure Flat White, Dawes Galaxy, Revolution Country Traveller, and Surly Long Haul Trucker, to name just a few. That’s life!)

Summary: Feature-rich flat-bar trekking bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £800 / €730 / US$760 / CA$1,090

The entry-level touring bike from the major German bike maker Cube is the affordable and simply-named Cube Touring . The basic model in this extensive range is currently one of the cheapest off-the-peg touring bikes on the market, and is widely distributed across Europe and North America.

If you’re used to the appearance of British or American designed tourers, you’ll notice some big differences, such as the flat handlebars and adjustable stem, the resulting upright riding posture, and the front suspension fork, as well as other details like a kickstand, a hub dynamo, and LED lights as standard. These are all fairly typical features of touring bikes from German and Dutch makers, where utility and comfort takes precedence.

To cater for a diverse customer base, the Cube Touring range comes in several frame variations and sizes, including the classic diamond frame (5 sizes), women’s specific with a sloping top-tube (3 sizes) and a step-through frame for riders with impaired mobility (3 sizes), all in a choice of two colour schemes.

The ‘semi-integrated’ rear rack, which is held in position by the mudguard/fender, is unorthodox, and the seat stays and front fork don’t have standard mounting points, complicating any modifications to the bike’s luggage-carrying capabilities. Riders looking for an entry-level touring bike that can be upgraded in the future may also decide to pass on the Cube Touring for these reasons.

The rest of the specification is impressive at this price. The entry-level Shimano V‑brakes and drivetrain components are sensible. As with any bike, you’ll want to fit your own preferred saddle, but the inclusion of ergonomic grips, lights, fenders and a kick-stand makes the Touring more or less ready to hit the road right out of the box.

All that said, the bike’s strongest selling point is the price. The recent disappearance of several popular entry-level touring bikes has left a gap at this end of the market – one that the Cube Touring happily fills.

• Check out the full Cube Touring range on the Cube website .
• Find your local dealer in Cube’s online directories of stockists in the UK and Europe , the USA , and Canada .
• Don’t buy this bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Summary: Good value forward-thinking light tourer Availability: UK, Europe, Australia List Price: £800 / €800 / AUD1,800

There’s no denying the success of Decathlon ’s no-frills approach to designing, manufacturing and selling sports and outdoor gear. The Riverside Touring is the entry-level model in Decathlon’s new foray into touring bikes, and for many riders will be a welcome addition to the sparse options at this lower-budget end of the market.

The Riverside Touring 520 is based on an aluminium frame, whose geometry sits somewhere between the old-school rigid mountain bike and today’s trendy gravel/hybrid rides. The frameset sports a big range of mounting points for more or less any luggage configuration you might imagine, including a front lowrider or fork cages, a traditional rear carrier rack should the semi-integrated stock rack not be to your tastes, and no less than five bottle cages.

The riding position of the Riverside Touring leans towards relaxed and upright, with the sloping top-tube helping with mounting and dismounting, and flat bars with so-called ergonomic grips and bar-ends atop a stack of head-tube spacers, all pointing to a bike designed with the casual or newcomer rider in mind. Comfortably wide 1.75″ tyres will be equally content on asphalt and gravel at the 700C (28″) wheel diameter.

Looking at component choice, Decathlon have specified a 1×11 drivetrain (ie: a single front chainring driving an 11-sprocket rear cassette); unusual on a tourer where riders tend to benefit from a wide and fine-grained range of gear ratios. The hydraulic disc brakes are also an unorthodox choice for a touring bike. 

Both will have traditionalists up in arms, citing increased chain wear rates, a reduced choice of gear ratios, and the near-impossibility of repairing hydraulics on the roadside. But a quick scan of the many customer reviews of this bike suggest that these concerns are academic. In the regions of the world this bike is likely to be used, spares and repairs for this bike will be abundant. And if you want to take it further afield, you can always fit cable disc brakes and/or a regular drivetrain.

Certainly one of this bike’s great strengths is how widely available it is for test-riding, Decathlon having hundreds of locations across the UK, Europe, Australia, and increasingly further afield, including Turkey, India, China, and the list goes on . Indeed, I can easily imagine a first-time tourer with a reasonable gear budget walking out of the store with not just the bike but a full set of luggage and maybe some camping gear too.

There are only four frame size options, however. Taken together with the wheel size, this may prevent those with short body lengths from finding a good match with the Riverside Touring 520.

In summary, while Decathlon have leaned pretty far into the crossover between classic touring and the gravel bike trend, there’s little to find fault with at this price – and there’s considerably more scope for upgrades here than other entry-level touring bikes in this list.

• Buy the Riverside Touring 520 in the UK from Decathlon .
• The bike is also available from Decathlon branches across Europe , Australia , and beyond .

Summary: Sporty steel-framed light road tourers Availability: UK/Europe/USA List Price: €1,000/1,500

Japanese manufacturer Fuji’s entry-level touring bikes are the Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD . The cheaper Touring LTD is the flat-bar model with rim brakes, while the Touring Disc LTD features drop bars and cable-actuated disc brakes with integrated shifter/brake levers. 

They’re both built on a Reynolds 520 cromoly steel frameset, with classic touring geometry and all the usual mounting points. Both bikes feature 36-spoke 700C wheels on Shimano hubs, and mudguards/fenders and a reasonably solid rear rack as standard, but no front rack or lowrider (you can of course add one later).

The Touring LTD has a Shimano Alivio V‑brakes and a 3×9‑speed chainset from the midrange of Shimano’s mountain-bike series of components, while the Touring Disc LTD has a 3×9‑speed Shimano Sora chainset with slightly higher gear ratios, making it more oriented towards lighter-weight road rides, as well as the ubiquitous TRP Spyre cable-actuated disc brakes found on so many touring bikes. For the extra money, the Disc LTD has a generator (dynamo) hub built into the front wheel which is already hooked up to the integrated front headlight – a nice touch.

The Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD come in no fewer than seven frame sizes, allowing precise fitting and fewer compromises for short or tall riders.

In summary, both models represent high ambitions in a good-value package aimed at a rider who wants a classic, no-fuss steel-framed touring bike, with the Disc being the sportier and more road-oriented of the two.

• Find a list of global dealers on the official Fuji website .

Summary: Beefy yet comfortable long-haul all-rounder Availability: UK List Price: £1,350

Launched in 2014, tweaked in the years since and now thoroughly tested on longer trips, the Ridgeback Expedition  is a strong contender for best value expedition touring bike on the market.

The current model shares design principles with many more expensive touring bikes designed specifically for worldwide expeditions beyond the developed world: wide-range 3×9‑speed mountain bike gearing, chunky 26-inch wheels, and a comfortable upright riding position. Unusually for a British tourer, it comes with flat bars and bar-end grips for a variety of hand positions. Cable disc brakes are now fitted as standard (the first incarnation had drop bars and V‑brakes).

The Ridgeback-branded integrated grips and bar-ends are modelled on the very popular but expensive Ergon range. The latest version of the Ridgeback Expedition also sees a brazed-on kickstand mounting plate added to the non-drive-side chainstay (though not an actual kickstand).

In many ways, as well as being excellent value for money, the Ridgeback Expedition is one of the most full-featured off-the-peg bikes in this list for extremely demanding trips where comfort and durability over time are paramount. Upgrade the rear rack, add a front lowrider and your favourite saddle, and you’ll be ready for the most remote of the planet’s backroads.

• Read my full review of the legacy 2014 Ridgeback Expedition here , and check the comments for feedback from long-haul riders.
• Like the rest of Ridgeback’s range, the Expedition should be available from any authorised Ridgeback dealer .

Summary: Classic British fully loaded drop-bar tourer Availability: UK List Price: £1,600

The Ridgeback Panorama  is a British-designed, Reynolds 725 cromoly-framed, disc brake-equipped, classic touring bike with a durable selection of 3×9sp drivetrain components from both road- and mountain-biking ranges. 

Its road-oriented frameset is prime for being built up into a fully-loaded, long-haul, asphalt touring machine. Both a front lowrider and a rear rack are fitted as standard – Tubus lookalikes, not the genuine articles, but still a welcome addition for fully-loaded riders who are just getting started.

Potential weak points on the Panorama include the integrated shifters/brake levers, which break away from the principle of separating possible points of failure (although you could theoretically swap them out for bar-end or even downtube shifters). The wheelset components are also nothing to write home about; get the spokes re-tensioned before taking this bike on a long-haul tour.

In spite of these question marks, the Panorama has been around for a long time and is very much tried and tested:  read Tim & Laura’s detailed guest review of the Panorama after a 6,000-mile road test , after which they completed their round-the-world trip on the same bikes.

• The Ridgeback Panorama is available from these authorised UK dealers .

Summary: Customisable road/gravel adventure bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £1,600 / US$2,050 / CA$2,800

Back in 2012, when the jury was still out on disc brakes as a reliable choice for long-distance touring, Surly produced a disc-specific version of their legendary Long Haul Trucker touring bike, cunningly naming it the Disc Trucker . It has since evolved into one of the most versatile and tried-and-tested touring/adventure bikes on the planet.

The Disc Trucker platform had a major update in 2020, about which more detail on the Surly blog. Wheel diameter now complements frame size, ie: bigger wheels suit taller riders and the vice-versa, for a total of eleven frame/wheel size combinations. If, having tried all the Disc Truckers for size, you still can’t find a good fit, you should probably visit a bespoke framebuilder.

The frame geometry is tight and nimble, with integrated gear/brake levers adding to the sporty vibe. This lack of mechanical separation won’t please everyone, but will certainly please riders looking for a performance boost over the uncompromising solidity often seen in the expedition bike niche.

Similarly to the Kona Sutra (see below), the latest Disc Trucker has bolt-through axles, clearance for fatter tyres, and versatility improvements such as multiple fork mounts for fenders, cages or lowriders, to match the kind of wilder, mixed-terrain rides for which the Disc Trucker is increasingly used.

As ever with Surly, racks and mudguards remain excluded, the intention being for you to fit your own according to your needs.

The garish fluoro-yellow paint option of the current Disc Trucker won’t be for everyone, but Surly tell us that it’s also available in hi-viz black.

• Click here to read my full review of the legacy 2014 Disc Trucker .
• To find a place to test-ride one, start with Surly’s global dealer locator .

Summary: Adaptable, performance-oriented road/gravel tourer Availability: Worldwide List Price: $2,100 / £1,900

Canada-based bike manufacturer Kona have long inhabited the left-of-centre in cycling. The Sutra range, too, is progressively-minded, being one of the first mainstream touring bikes to switch to disc brakes back in the early 2010s.

Since then, Kona have adopted the stiffer and stronger bolt-through axle standard (another first amongst bikes in this list), and tightened up the frame geometry to produce a nimble and sporty cyclocross-inspired steel frameset which remains a touring bike at its core.

In 2022, Kona diversified the platform into several models, including the LTD and SE. The standard Sutra went in a more lightweight direction than in previous years, switching to a road drivetrain and cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes. Today, this performance-oriented version of the Sutra remains Kona’s ‘modern take on the classic touring bike’ (in their own words), with a Shimano GRX 2×10-speed road-bike gearing, drop bars with integrated shifter/brake levers, mixed-terrain Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres, and a Brooks B17 saddle and Brooks bar-tape as standard. This all points to the blend of on-road and off-road use increasingly preferred by riders going on shorter, wilder adventures.

The 2024 Sutra’s luggage-carrying capabilities are diverse and adaptable. For those wanting to use the bike as a fully-loaded world tourer, standard rack mounts are provided on the seatstays and rear dropouts, suitable for fitting any standard pannier rack (perhaps a Tubus Cargo or Logo to match the Tara front low-rider already fitted). For those wanting to stay nimble, frame and fork mounts exist for more or less any combination of bolt-on cages and harnesses.

The Kona Sutra comes in six fine-grained frame sizes. This year’s paint colour is Satin Midnight with bronze gloss decals, in case you were wondering.

• I’ve been riding a Kona Sutra myself since 2012 and I love it.  Read my original long-term review of the legacy model here .
• The Kona website has a handy  list of worldwide dealers so you can find a place to test-ride the Sutra.

Summary: Bespoke, round-the-world expedition bike Availability: UK & Worldwide List Price: from £2,789

Originally a one-off “ultimate expedition bike” built to my exact specification, Oxford Bike Works have been refining and custom-building bespoke Expedition s to order since 2015 from their workshop in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, England. Many have now circled the globe. It’s not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

As standard, each bike features a hand-built Reynolds 525 cromoly steel frame, a choice of 26″ or 700C hand-built wheels, top-end Tubus racks, rim or disc brake options, Microshift thumbshifters, and tons of other expedition-specific touches.

From a baseline specification, each bike is custom-built to the rider’s exact needs and preferences after an in-person consultation and fitting session at their workshop. While most of their customers are from the UK, they will also ship finished bikes elsewhere in the world in special cases.

Oxford Bike Works have now moved all frame production to the UK, both minimising their carbon footprint and allowing even more individual tailoring – especially attractive for riders with diverse physiologies who may find that the commercial bikes in this list don’t cater well for their needs.

• Check out the full specifications of the Oxford Bike Works Expedition .
• Read my 10,000-word epic, How To Build The Ultimate Round-The-World Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures) , which details every design decision that went into this bike.
• Don’t buy this bike online (you can’t anyway). Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Yet More Rider-Recommended Touring Bikes

This is not an exhaustive list, because if it was we’d be here all day. But the following bikes have also been recommended by readers of this blog over the years since I first published this post. All have also proven themselves capable touring bikes over time and miles:

• Bombtrack Arise Tour (Germany & Worldwide)
• Cinelli HoBootleg (Italy & Worldwide)
• Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 (Germany)
• Genesis Tour De Fer (UK)
• KHS TR 101 (USA)
• Temple Cycles Adventure Disc 3
• Trek 520 Disc (USA & Worldwide)
• Vivente World Randonneur (Australia)

…and you’ll find even more options in my massive list of heavy-duty expedition touring bikes available worldwide .

Remember: don’t buy a touring bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list ) and have your bike chosen, fitted and customised by an expert whose job depends on getting it just right, just for you!

Bonus : The Secret To Actually Choosing The Right Touring Bike

Finally, I’m going to tell you a secret. 

It’s something other cycle touring bloggers won’t tell you, because they’d prefer you to click on their affilliate links, buy a bike online, and earn them commission.

If you’re having trouble choosing between the touring bikes listed above, the reason is probably because – on paper – they are basically all the same .

They all cost several hundred pounds/dollars/euros. Most of them have steel touring-specific frames, wide gearing, relaxed riding positions, a pannier rack and extra mounts, and drivetrains from the middle of Shimano’s mountain-bike or road-bike ranges. They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or gravel road if need be. They all have two wheels, handlebars, and a saddle.

So how should you choose between them?

The answer is actually very simple.

Visit a touring bike specialist ( UK list ) and take a few bikes for a test ride. 

In doing so, you will discover that the “best touring bike” is the one that’s available in your area and has been set up for you by a touring bike specialist who’s taken the time to understand your needs.

I’ve written a longer post about what to do when you get to this stage of the touring bike buying process, when you’ve got a shortlist of bikes you found online but you’re struggling to choose between them .

And if what I’ve shared with you here still isn’t enough, you can check out even more deep-dive posts about detailed aspects of touring bike choice, including

• three critical questions you should ask at the start of the touring bike buying process ,
• a discussion about what exactly defines a touring bike ,
• my take on what’s really going on when you can’t decide between two bikes ,
• a hugely in-depth article on how to custom-build your own expedition bike ,
• a summary of the debate over disc brakes versus rim brakes ,

and more on my absolutely massive advice and planning page .

Because of all the things you’ll buy for a cycle tour, the bike is the one purchase you really can’t afford to get wrong.

Bogged down in research for your next big bicycle adventure?

I wrote a whole book to help with that. How To Hit The Road is designed to be read at your leisure, making planning a bike tour simple and achievable, no matter the length, duration or budget. Available globally as an ebook or paperback.

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Also relevant to this post:

• How To Custom Build The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures)
• Surly Disc Trucker Touring Bike: Legacy Review & Detailed Photos
• The Best Cheap (Sub-£1,000) Touring Bikes for Low-Budget Adventures

Comments ( skip to respond )

321 responses to “what’s the best touring bike (2024 edition)”.

I can’t find a Kona Sutra SE anywhere, I think they’re discontinued, so if anyone knows where I can find one let me know.

Yes, you’re right – it looks like Kona have simplified things for their 2024 range, and the plain Sutra is now their classic touring bike once again (as it was for years before the SE was introduced). It looks like you’ll need to add your own rear rack for fully loaded touring, but all the frame fittings appear to be there. I’ll update this post shortly with the new model. Thanks for highlighting it!

My wife’s bike is a basic 2000 Kona Hahana. Persuaded the dealer to sell only frame headset seatpin bars. . Built up better wheels etc tubus racks. Tierra del Fuego to Quito plus many more trips. Still going strong 20 years later. My lovely lightweight Univega bought as a frame lasted until 2013 .The frame broke in Albania survived for 60 km held together with nylon cord and cone spanners. Got it welded by local blacksmith. Now have Surly Troll. Ok .….but will have to go back to Square taper bottom bracket. Wife’s old square tapers have done about 30000 miles. Progress or fashion? Charlie and Bethan

All I can do is repeat the old saying that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

Anyone got their hands on a Decathalon Riverside Touring 900? Looks like good all round value, but rarely in stock on their website! Would love to hear some real world feedback on this bike…

I second that – real world stories appreciated!

Hi Tom, I recently cycled from Amsterdam to Genoa covering 2500km in total. I flew into Amster with the bike boxed up. I took with me a carbon frame Ridley Kanzo Adventure, it has all the mounting points and relatively relaxed geometry. I road over every type of terrain and the bike didn’t let me down. What I liked with this bike was that I could arrive at my destination in the evening, remove my pannier bags and then have a light weight roadie feeling for exploring whatever region I had made camp in. The bike also had great performance in the hills. Another plus was that when flying and the bike is boxed up, it’s relatively light weight to transport. This meant that at the start and end of my tour getting the bike boxed up from campsite to train to airport was not such a struggle.

Thanks, Kerry. I really like this approach and I’m heartened to hear carbon frames are now being built to take light luggage loads. Thanks again for sharing!

The 30 year old touring bike you already own becomes the second best, as the next one you buy must necessarily be even better.

I’ve recently gone from a Claud Butler Majestic to a Crossmaxx 28″ Pinion. Naturally, I’m absolutely certain, it’s the best touring bike I could possibly have bought (given my criteria and priorities).

First, let me make this perfectly clear, I’m not a seasoned tourer, so much of what I will say is strictly coming from an amateur. I had to look for a new touring bike after my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe got hit by a hit-and-run driver and bent the fork beyond repair, but that bike worked great for my needs.

I could not buy a touring bike from anyone in my city of 350,000 people because no one carries them, the only shop that could have ordered me the Trek 520 but there were some things about the bike I didn’t like, plus it was expensive and with lower end parts, much how I felt the Surly Trucker was, having no choice I had to turn to the internet. in 2019 I compared the Kona Sutra SE, Surly Trucker, Fuji Touring, Masi Giramondo 700c, and one other I can’t recall the name. After much debate, I narrowed it down to either the Kona or the Masi, and ended up with the Masi because of the price of $1,450 at the time, the Kona would have cost me $1,950, but in 2019 they didn’t have some of the stuff they now have on that bike so to make it work I had to make some changes which would have cost me even more; the Masi had the best gear ratios for climbing steep grades with a loaded bike of any bike I saw, and at the time Masi was using 180mm rotors on the front and 160 on the rear and I liked the idea of the bigger rotor on the front, Masi has since reduced the front rotor size to 160.

I did make some changes to the Masi, put on RedShift Shockstop suspension stem and seat post, a change I would have done to any other touring bike I would have bought, now I feel like I’m riding in a Cadillac. The stock Kenda Drumlin tires are junk and heavy, I replaced those with Schwalbe Amotion 38c tires; and the WTB saddle was also junk, so replaced it with a Brooks C17; I ended up not liking the front Tubus Tara rack and replaced it with a Blackburn Bootlegger rack which works better for my needs. 

I think the Masi Giramondo 700c is a very worthy touring bike that a person should at least look at, especially if on the lower budget end of things.

Thanks for this detailed contribution – it’s always good to hear about rider experiences with touring bikes other than those listed here. For other readers’ reference, here’s a link to the California based manufacturer webpage for the Masi Giramondo .

About to begin a year of touring with Breezer Radar Expert. A review of it here https://cycletraveloverload.com/breezer-radar-expert-review-best-budget-gravel-bike/ (not me) I changed the tires to Schwalbe G‑One Overland Evo 28″ 50–622 for this purpose 😉

I’m considering the Priority 600, as my new touring bike and wondering if anyone has any history of using one or opinions of this bike? Thx

For reference, here’s a link to the Priority 600 . I have no personal experience of this bike, but I have published my own detailed thoughts on internal gearing systems such as the Pinion gearbox in the context of cycle touring here (most of the same logic applies to belt drive).

I am a multi day ultra cyclist, so tend to go minimalist. However, I have done big touring rides in the past on my trusty 1993 Cannondale T1000 (my 21st birthday present). I think that a Daws Super Galaxy or Cannondale, still make excellent budget touring bikes. I have been racing and touring on a Niner RTL Steel, which is makes an excellent touring bike, with great touring geomtry and lots of mounts for racks — I use a 1x 46t Shinano GRX groupset with an 11–50 cassette. Gravel bikes can may great touring bikes

Happy you’re reinforcing the mantra that the best touring bike might be the one you already have – even if it’s 30 years old! As for gravel bikes, many of them would certainly make good tourers – just not sure I’d advise anyone to buy a gravel bike for touring if touring-specific bikes are also available.

I think I have been riding the “Best” touring bike for the last 7 years. — https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

What an absolute beast! Something with that much detailed customisation can hardly fail to serve its rider’s needs best.

Yes HP and Tom, I would like to know about the Marrakesh too!

Interestingly enough, I still can’t find any long-term rider reviews of the Marrakesh. There are, however, plenty of spam reviews which combine manufacturer specifications and stock photos with meaningless filler like “combining Alivio Trekking derailleurs with the Shimano Sora shifters, you won’t have any problem slowing down or torquing up the bike when needed” (yep, actual quote). As a rule, bikes only get on this list when a consensus emerges from the community of people who’ve used them on tour. I just wish I could find more decent trip reports from people riding this one!

Great list, but where’s the Salsa Marrakech?!

I’ve done a few tours on it and can vouch for it’s quality. She’s an absolute beast and rides like a dream! Packed with touring features and has really well worked out geometry.

PS I don’t work for Salsa.

PPS love the blog mate. Did a 6500km+ around Asia a few years ago and your blog was really reaaally useful. ???

Thanks for the comment! The Marrakech was launched in 2015, which in cycle touring circles makes it a newcomer 😉 but you are correct that enough time has gone by now to see real-world results, so I’ll consider it for the next update. Thanks again!

I am looking to buy either Fuji disc touring LTD 2021( priced at 1336 euros) or Trek 520 2021( priced at 1600 euros) . I am really confused , as I don’t understand even though both have very similar specs, why is the trek 520 priced at 250 euros higher? Is trek somehow supposed to be better for some reason that I cannot comprehend or is it price cause of the brand “trek”?

Hi Badri. Prices may differ for many reasons, including import taxes, exchange rates, retailer profit margins, and of course simple pricing decisions by the manufacturer. But my main advice still remains this: if you can’t choose between two bikes on paper, it’s time to visit your local bike shop and take both for a test ride!

Hi I’m from newzealand and touring bikes well decent ones aren’t that easy to come by at the moment because of covid .but I found a Kona sutra the guy had only done about 100 km on it decided he wasn’t going to cycle so sold it and I happen to be at the right place at the right time.great bike to ride and I’m looking forward to my first tour on it in one months time Peter

Unlikely you monitor this anymore, but I’ve been comparing my 80s road bike to modern touring bikes (Croix de Fer and Kona Sutra) and the geometries look the same. Am I missing something or are modern specialist tourers actually very similar to old-school road racers?

Hey Hugh. Actually I make a point of replying to every comment, and I update this post monthly 🙂

Long ago I inherited a hand-built road bike from my grandfather. It was the first bike I’d owned that wasn’t a mountain bike and I was amazed at how fast and light it was, despite being a steel frame. It was a bit on the small side for me, but you’re right that the geometry was quite close to a classic road tourer. The biggest differences you’ll probably find are in the weight (heavier-gauge tubing designed for carrying luggage) and the wheelbase proportional to frame size, although the trend today seems to be for more compact and sporty designs. But the short version is yes, there are certainly a lot of similarities!

Sorry to burst some people’s bubbles.But I want to save you the hassle and frustration. I’ve been touring around north,central and south america,now in Turkey & the Balkans for the last 4.5 years on a 3x9 ‚11–36 cassette Surly Troll 26″ and I can tell you that 26″ anything is absolutely obsolete!! DEAD!! It has been a total nightmare! I can find zero parts for it, anywhere. Definitely forget tires. Impossible! Literally nothing anywhere. Traditional wisdom is gone out the window, China has flooded the market with 27.5/29″ and all the components for these sizes and that’s what killed the 26″ over the last 5+ years. Seriously , almost everything I have for my bike I had to buy off Amazon and getting lucky once or twice when a mechanic spent days looking for parts for me. I’ve spent days and more than 2 weeks stuck in cities looking for what was considered simple parts found “easily”! :9 speed shifters,cassettes,chains,26″ tires,disc rotors 160mm,BB,brake pads,etc…Nada!! Super frustrating! I can’t buy a new bike now but I will sell this 26″ 3x9 Troll in a flash the first chance I get or throw it straight into a river. It’s a shame because it’s a great bike. You can almost still get things for it online, but I think soon these parts will be plased out soon. Due to Covid the shipping is taking weeks and many parts are out of stock now too. I thought that being in Europe people still ride 26″ bikes I might find parts,but no.I’ve been once again stuck Tirana for more than 2 weeks just for a cassette and chain and have to take inferior parts now. If I had a 27’5 or 29″ and 10/11 speed I would have more options. My friends who toured 5–10 + years ago can’t believe this change. All 26″ inch bike frame builders out there need to know this.The market has changed, traditionalists be warned. Good luck!

Hello Ian and thanks for your comment. You certainly sound frustrated! For balance, and for the benefit of my other readers, I’d like to add a few observations:

1. 26″ is a wheel size, not a cassette sprocket count, chain width, shifter indexing system, disc rotor size, etc. It affects rim, spoke, tyre and tube availability. 2. You’re right that the industry is currently swamped with trendy new wheel sizes like 27.5 and 29. But most existing bicycles in the world have 26-inch wheels. These bicycles will always need spare parts and are unlikely to disappear overnight. 3. As for “literally nothing anywhere”, I just walked into my local supermarket and found an aisle of brand new bicycles, all adult sizes of which had 26-inch wheels, and a rack of spare tyres right next to them. I’ve said this before: it’s not just specialist bike shops that sell bikes. This is critical to remember when looking for 26-inch wheel parts in far-flung lands.

That’s all I wanted to add. I hope you get things sorted in Tirana. And I hope you’ll share with us the location of the river you throw your Surly Troll into!

Im fairly sure the Surly Long Haul Trucker promotion pictures are of frames with a different wheel size they are designed for. The picture here looks like a 60cm frame for 700c wheels but fitted with 26″ wheels. This is the same for the picture here as it is on their website, which looks like a 58cm frame for 262 wheels with 700c wheels in place. I own a Surly LHT and theyre great bikes but the frame sizeing can be a bit confusing and the promotional pictures dont help.

I would respectfully disagree, based on the fact that the brake shoes are visibly aligned correctly with the rims. If the wrong sized wheels were fitted to the frame, this wouldn’t be possible. In the past, all sizes of LHT frames have been available for both 700C and 26″ wheels, so I’d guess we’re looking at one of the larger frame sizes for 26″ wheels with the correct wheels indeed fitted. The proportions do look weird at a glance, but it is in fact how these bikes were sold. FWIW the sizing scheme of the Truckers has changed now, so wheel size better complements frame size throughout the range, as mentioned in the latest update to the post above.

Hello Tom — I have a Koga Miyata Globe Traveler which I bought in 2005 from a dealer in Lexington, KY — Pedal The Planet. (Ironically, in 1985, I did a world tour on a Miyata bicycle.) I bicycled the Lewis and Clark Trail that summer, St. Louis to Astoria, OR. 10 years later in 2015 I began a charity ride of the perimeter of the U.S. for Habitat For Humanity and Save The Children (website: usperimeterride.org) and concluded that 12,000 journey in 2017. I’ve been very happy with my Koga Miyata all these years. I’m 71 now, and don’t know if I have any expedition type tours left in me … but I keep thinking. Just wondering your thoughts on the current Koga bikes. I’ve seen a couple of comments here regarding Koga bikes — some positive and couple not (the one regarding the cracked frame). I think that there are no longer any Koga dealers in North America. Am I correct in thinking that? I believe there used to be one in Toronto, and a dealer out in Santa Barbara, CA, that handled parts. Pedal The Planet where I bought my Koga Miyata is no longer in operation. Thank you for all your info on your website!

Aaaand Long Haul Trucker is gone as well. Seems like Surly are phasing out some of the touring bikes.

Same source — LHT FAQ, third answer I think.

That’s tragic – although on closer inspection it does say “for the time being”…

Sadly, Surly will discontinue the Troll model in 2021.

Hi Lukas! Do you happen to have a source for this? I’ve checked the Surly website and social media channels and haven’t found any mention. I just want to be sure that my readers are getting accurate information. Cheers!

Someone asked the question on Surly’s website in Thorn section — Q&A. They asked whether Thorn will be renewed for 2021 and someone from the staff said that they will no longer offer this model. 

https://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll

FAQ section, should still be the first question asked. 

I was planning to build a tourer on Troll frame and I guess now I should buy it before it’s gone.

I wrote ‘Thorn’ by mistake, should be Troll (I also consider Thorn for my build and must’ve been thinking about it.)

Thanks for the reference, Lukas, that’s very useful. I guess it reflects the diminishing popularity of the 26-inch platform, at least for new bikes (and thus for profit margins).

In the premium category I’d add one of the IDWorx bikes such as the All Rohler or oPinion BLT. I visited their HQ last week and Gerrit and his team are amazing. They won ‘bike of the year 2020’ award for their BLT off-road touring bike. https://www.idworx-bikes.de/

I had the Off Rohler in this list since visiting their stall at Eurobike 2014 – it almost wins the ‘most expensive off-the-peg touring bike in the world’ award! I’m keen to see what they’ve created since then. Thank you for the link and the suggestion!

They arent’ cheap that’s for sure. I tried to trade in my wife for a titanium bike, but they only take euros.

Once they start to explain the engineering behind each component you can understand why they arrive at those prices. Also it’s a 4th gernation family of bike builders, they hand build the bikes, their staff are properly-paid, they have sunk lots of money into R&D and make many bespoke components. The attention to detail is astonishing. I spent nearly a day at their HQ with the attention of the owner, his wife, two dogs and their chief engineer. (He did his Masters theisis on Pinion gearboxes). We rode in the German countryside and tested a score of bikes. The customer service is out of this world. If you can afford it, I’d would recommend IDWorx.

Hi Tom, thanks for your help! Now im planning a big tour for a few years in Africa and America, now i have an Avaghon 26 series with Rohloff and Magura but im thinking to change with a 29″ wheels( im 1,81 cm tall ). What do you think about Surly ECR? Thnaks, Fabio.

I have never ridden the ECR so I can’t speak from experience, but I know it’s a well respected frameset. Your height suggests a 29er would be more comfortable in the long run. For planning a big tour you might want to check out my list of expedition touring bikes – this will also help you see quickly which framesets are Rohloff-compatible. Hope that helps!

I think I have “the best” touring bike available… judge for yourselves. Full suspension mid-drive eTouring bike and trailer evolution. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

Hey Tom. Love this website. Is this still current? I can’t find a stockist that has the Flat White. Even Adventure’s own website doesn’t seem to link to it. Or am I missing something obvious? Thanks

It’s still listed at https://www.adventureoutdoor.co/bike/flat-white — I’ll be updating this article this month and will see if I can find any current stockists.

A look at secondhand market worth it as I picked up Thorn Mercury Rohloff for £1200 (pretty much the price of the hub alone) also have a rohloff on my ti 29er and it has been on 2 other mtb before that ……. pretty much fit and forget.

Hi Tom I am preparing for a number of long term trips in the near future and researched bicycles heavily (including use of your excellent website) and settled on the Ridgeback Expedition. However I have now made three attempts to buy one at cycle shops in a variety of towns and no-one seems able to sell me one! I decided to contact the compnay directly, but no phone number and they say that they take two weeks to answer e‑mails. So I would suggest that customer service might be a factor in choosing the bike to buy (these are not cheap acquisitions after all) and any company that cant even manage to communicate with customers at the point of purchase isn’t likely to have ana dequate after sales customer support! Not sure what to do now, but it definitely will not be a Ridgeback anything Dave

Local bike shops don’t tend to sell a wide variety of bikes here in the UK, they make there money from servicing bikes and selling components so it’s not really a surprise you can’t find a bike shop that sells them. A quick google search has just shown several reputable online retailers that supply the ridgeback expedition and will provide you with any customer support you might require after purchase.

Hope this helps

Thx for the info. About same specs as my modded Moonrun. I use SKF bracket spindle but have cheaper headset but works fine for years now. For carrying stuff I use strongest on market today and that is the rear rack made by Thorn. Fitted with M6 steel bolts I can come a way with most everything I throw at it. I had the frame professionally modified by Marten from M‑gineering after which it was powder coated.

Hello, Thanks for this nice article. Why is the TX-800 striked-through in the list ?

You don’t have the Surly Ogre(700c) or Troll(26″) on your list. I got the Ogre because it was suggested over the LHT or disc version because they are a little more rugged. I went from the US to Panama on an Ogre and never had a problem with it beyond needing new tires, I went with the Ogre because I had a really nice set of 700c rims. NEVER EVER go to Latin America with anything but 26″. I read a few blogs on crazyguyonabike.com and with off road touring the LHT(or disc version) needs welding.

Hello Tom. I cycled Armenia three years ago in a short tour and met an old french man Thierri, walking all the way from france to there. one month after getting home he came to me in Tehran and stayed for few days. in his Photoes, i saw you. i knew you in advance beacause of your movie. The intention of writing for you is that we’ve been in contact for one year or so but suddenly i lost him and i Thought you might remember him and have any news of him. I really hope he is doing well and being healthy. thanks sorry for misspeling

best wishes Saied

Yes, he’s safe and well and back living in France. A true legend and inspiration!

I’m currently cycling in Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. 2000km via the coast, in some pretty demanding scenarios. I’m riding the Cinelli HoBootleg 2018 Touring Bike which has been as tough and reliable as I had hoped it would be. I’m 1000km in of the 2000km and think it’s been a great bike. Intrigued it wasn’t listed in the line up.

Should it be? I think so yet if there is a reason for not rating or listing can you let me know? Recognise you cannot list all Touring Bikes yet it does have a great name in many other review pages.

Anyway — I rate the Cinelli!

One other thing, I think the Trek 920 should be listed. The bikes you have reviewed are very traditional and the Trek 920 certainly makes the available options a little more spicy. Touring bikes are surely headed in the Trek 920 direction wouldn’t you say? D

Tom, what do you think about Verso Tour Gitane? I’m from Argentina, and here there aren’t so many good bikes, and I can buy one Gitane, but I’ve never heard about this model. Thank you

I also haven’t heard about this one. On paper it looks like a pretty decent European-style ‘trekking bike’ – the adjustable stem and the Magura hydraulic rim brakes remind me of some better known German and Dutch models. The drivetrain choices are close to what we use for the Oxford Bike Works Expedition. I’d take a careful look at the rear rack, which doesn’t look too sturdy from the photos, and consider upgrading the tyres if you’re going on a long trip.

This bike has a lot of critical components made from aluminium: the frame, forks and rear rack. The front rack would appear to be the chromoly Tubus Ergo. Going on your previous comments about aluminium Tom you could rule this bike out for some types of touring, for example, where a frame, fork or rack break would cause a major disruption.

Thank you for post. Lot of good reading. However i am bit lost in a choice now. Do you think you can shine a bit light to it ? 

I just now finished 300km testing tour on my road bike Coyotee Route 66. I changed a lot of things in a bike like butterfly handlebars, wheels, saddle, etc etc… 

I was riding in UK from Birmingham to Warrington. But after i come back i had a pain all over my body. And i started to think about a choice all over again… 

Now In 3 days i should start trip about 4000km from UK to Portugal. Do you recommend to buy a new bike this short before? 

I explored variety of options of bikes but seems more or less simmilar. I am concern if i will go for normal touring bike riding will be bit boring. Where Surrly Troll seems bit more fun. I was also thinking about hardtail mountain bike with fork suspension. But this seem as quite slow and tiring on road. And also what you think about newer types as using cargo bike (YUBA), hybrid bike should i think about it ? And also if you have any experience with using electic bikes. With a range above 100miles seems as interesting. Go for it or not ?

Thanks a lot for your answers.

Thanks for the article, i plan to travel from Texas to the bottom of South America next year. I was planning on buying a bike there. Do you know much about American bikes and what would be good for that trip, i’m Over 6 ft and about 95kg now. I’m in china now so i don’t think buying one here would be good but, i’m open

The Surly LHT or Disc Trucker is the classic American tourer and widely available. For your height/weight I’d go for a 700c model in L or XL frame size.

Thanks for this great review. I travel now for last 5 years with a Koga World traveller bike. Very happy with it. Please include in your evaluation next time!

Bought a Koga World traveller three years ago, have been very happy with it. BUT, this summer while on a trip in Scotland I saw a nasty crack on the welding. Tried to identify a Koga dealer, and all those mentioned on their website no longer do Koga. I contacted the customer service via their website form and it took them a week to get back basically telling me to contact the seller. I bought the bike in France, so that wasn’t going to help me much! So I went to the nearest reputable dealer in Pitlochry, they confirmed my worry that the bike was too dangerous to use so bought a cheap, but very good Giant mtb, and continued the holiday. Picked the broken Koga bike up on the way back to France and went to the seller.

The bike has been sitting in the seller’s workshop for THREE WEEKS as they wait for KOGA to instruct them on how to proceed (they are no longer a Koga dealer). The frame comes with a lifetime warranty, but a warranty doesn’t fix a bike. The seller has sent photos, and sent more photos at Koga’s request, but still no instructions. They have contacted the nearest Koga dealer in France and no answer from them either. I even went to the nearest dealer in Germany to see if they could help and they refused.

I have emailed, tweeted, tried calling, but nothing seems to get them to react now.

So my advice would be to stay away from Koga unless you are ok with paying a lot of money with no assurance that you will get any form of support if you have a problem on the road.

This sounds like a terrible story and I’m sorry to hear about it. It does seem unusual that one of the most reputable high-end touring bikes would develop such a fault in the first place, however. I’d be interested to hear what solution eventually arises – I would have thought a crack in a weld under warranty would point to a brand new replacement frame.

Tom I have a dawes titanium (not disks) and I was thinking of upgrading the wheels and brakes for longer audaxes. Do you have any suggestions.

thanks David

If I were you, I’d pay a visit to my nearest professional wheelbuilder.

New Trek 1120 is a whole new dimension. Gearing up now for a Canadian ride.

Having been the proud owener of several Koga bikes for around the world trips unfortunately, since 2016 the quality has been declining. For the amount of money it cost, it is simply not worth it. For 2000 € (which the price of a Koga bike) you can get a lot of bicycle elsewhere.

Hi Tom! Thanks for an interesting article! I’m dreaming of bike adventures, both longer trips and weekend trips and try to find a new bike that can make those dreams come true. Mostly, though, I’ll use the new bike for my everyday commute in Sweden. I’ve been watching the Verenti substance tiara/sora — seems like decent components and good value which I’m pretty sure will fill my commuting needs. But how do you think it would do for longer adventures? I’m mostly concerned about weight, geometry and key component durability. I would be very grateful of a brief opinion! http://www.wiggle.se/verenti-substance-tiagra-adventure-road-2017/

Hi all, Great article — many thanks. Very useful while choosing a bike to undertake a cycle across USA in 2018 (I’ve never had a touring bike before). I chose Trek 520 (Disc brake variety) in the end which I’m really happy with. Good value at £1,000 versus other bikes available, comes with pedals and rear pannier rack and very swish gear changers. Reviews on Trek website largely very positive as well. I went for because I’m quite tall (193cm/6foot4) so was struggling to find a big enough frame in any touring bikes. Surly do large frames but are more expensive (~£1500) and no extras like pannier rack. In the end the 60cm Trek frame firs me very well — we checked standover length and top tube length and because of the geometry of the bike it actually matches some other manufacturers who produce larger frames (eg 62cm). Feel free to contact me on [email protected] if you have any questions or thinking of buying the bike, I’d be happy to help.

Ollie, London

If it is a choice between a smaller and a larger frame, my preference is for the smaller frame because a) provided the steerer hasn’t been cut yet, it is almost always possible to achieve a good fit by putting on a longer stem and raising the seatpost (swapping for a longer one if necessary) b) bigger frames are harder to pack for travel c) it can feel more manoeuvrable

Punish the thing, make the bike work for you, and don’t be limited by the bike or its stuff. Bikes get stolen, plans go squiify and so what if we decide to take the really cruddy road upppp that turns into gravel then kind of goat track then.. and you land up pushing and doing singletrack downhill to .. mud and gravel and finally .. So, my bike came out of a skip, a rusty 2012 Scott Speedster S30. Thrown out! Square section BB, road rims and tyres (I know.. but a good spoke key makes life simple). wide range 9x2 gears. But it takes racks.. The boom in road cycling means 700c and road bike bits are much easier than they were a decade ago — even in Yemen and Iran. Total build cost of my bike: £100 including panniers. Bits and pieces off gumtree, pinkbike, etc. If it get bent, hah. If it gets nicked, hah. The no-compromise bits: ‘fit’ / setup, the saddle, my most comfy/worn SPD shoes, tubeless with goop.

Brilliant! Thanks for sharing this!

Hey this is great stuff! However, do you have recommendations for bikes in the US? ‑j

Sure – many of the bikes in this article are from U.S. manufacturers, Surly and Kona being the obvious two. Also check out REI’s range of tourers under the Co-op Cycles brand.

Hi Tom, love your site. I need to thank you not only for an informative site in general, but also for helping me make a decision on a touring bike. Until recently I lived in Darwin, Australia. It’s reasonably isolated and the choice of bike brands is severely limited. Thus, test riding anything decent is out of the question. My wife was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to work in France for 6 months so I saw this a a great chance to purchase the bike of my dreams. Armed with advice from your site (and others) I narrowed it down to two bikes — the VSF TX-400 with Shimano drive train, and the Rose Activa Pro 2. As there wasn’t a Rose dealer where we were living in France, the TX-400 was the winner. That was August last year and I haven’t had even a twinge of regret. I love it. Keep up the great work mate. I look forward to following your adventures (and Charlie’s) for many years to come. Cheers, Derek.

I am surprised that Ridgeback is still fitting aluminium racks to its high-end touring bikes when most other brands fit cro-moly. Aluminium whilst okay for components such as wheel rims, handlebars, and seatposts, is too fragile for heavily loaded racks with thin small diameter tubes and suffers too easily from metal fatigue.

I am surprised that serious riders will still accept an add-on rack of any kind steel or not. Every connection is a weak link. Tout-Terrain, Panamericana. http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/panamericana/ — not interested in the pinion gearing but you can’t beat the frame.

Hi Tom and readers, Does anyone out there have any experience with or notion of what to do with the following problem? (saddle soreness — chafing). My girlfriend has a typical german woman’s uprightish trekking bike by bulls, and we did just one two week tour on it last summer. She’d never toured before. She found her “intim Bereich” (intimate area) got rubbed a lot by the saddle (wasn’t an issue with short local trips previously), so I ended up buying and trying a new saddle, then a series of the best rated woman’s saddles out there, and all of them did the same rubbing thing. Biking shorts and a gel pad didn’t help fully or much. She thought being more upright helped the rubbing, by taking pressure off the front of the saddle and putting it more on the sitz bones, so I got some big curvy bar ends and cranked them way back, so she can sit totally upright. I even added a nice suspension seatpost. But somehow the pain won’t go away. I’m really at a loss about what to do. I wonder if a new frame would help at all. Anyone find a saddle that really helps with sensitive bottoms? I’m leaning towards getting her a recumbent, but can’t really afford it, and she doesn’t tour with me a lot. I ride a bacchetta giro 20 myself and highly recommend it for touring! Thanks for any advice!

hi Jeff and all, dr. jim parker from cruzbike has compiled some very revealing facts regarding health issues cyclists commonly are facing, i.e. genital numbness & e.d. besides the usual (wrist,back & neck). i do suffer from groin pains riding on my dawes upride racing bike within 30–45 min.

hence for my upcoming uk & european (& car replacement) tour i am opting for an “atl-falter” from radnabel in tuebingen, germany. atl stands for “all tags lieger”(recumbent for everyday-all year/tasks); falter stands for folding. they are not well known outside of central europe, have been handbuild for nearly 30 years and are highly regarded for being — safe (long wheel base, low center of gravity), nimble (sharp turning circle), quick (ergonomic design & pushing against the backrest/very good uphills), comfortable (no neck, groin or wrist pain, full suspension), good load carrying capability [70kg total], “protecting” (see: allwetterverkleidung/foldable fairing/poncho), well engineered and sound workmanship. although dieter baumann (builder) speaks english, the webside is in german only. the atl-falter with rohloff, full chain cover, rear rack, pannier holders, twoleg stand weighs 17–18 kg (chrmo steel). 

you get an better idea about radnabels atl’s watching these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZgX6zIViBY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsBEvBX_S4o

they have proved themselves also on long distance tours germany to china. happy cycling or as we say in bavaria: “frohes radln” regards reinhard

Ok, my thing about touring bikes, what about the weight?! Most tourers are just too heavy, 17Kg+ steel monsters. “They have to be, for the reliability”…well the only frames I’ve had break were a steel and an Al frame. Maybe you’ll say “blasphemy” but my trekking bike of choice is a modified carbon fibre Simplon “Nanolight” K3. My aim has been the lightest bike but still fit for a tour of up to a month on road. This thing has been faultless for 9 years of mainly mountain tours (and daily commuting). The essentials, for me, are: good hub dynamo lighting, hydraulic Rim brakes (discs are, expletive, Primadonnas), brooks saddle, bike rack, mudguards, oh and lightness. Everything is carbon or titanium, except the wheels, saddle and handlebar. it’s expensive but still less than people spend on fancy packages for their car. Final tour weight is around 9.1Kg. I even made my own bike bags out of lightweight cuben fibre. Yes the bike could be seen as excessively focussed on weight, but nowadays trekking bikes could be a lot lighter than they are, we would have many more people on bikes, heavy bikes stop people biking. J Jones.

I have noticed that all these touring bikes have no suspension in the front wheel. I am curious, why? Does a front suspension affect the performance of these long bike trips?

For most tours it’s simply not necessary. A suspension fork adds complication, meaning more to go wrong. Forks without lockout introduce inefficiency. Finally, most forks are incompatible with lowriders (front racks).

Bikepacking (i.e. lightweight offroad touring) is a different story, but still a small niche.

Is there an easy solution to fitting a front light to my Ridgeback Voyage with a bar bag in situ? I do not want an extending arm attached to the drops with the light above the bag. I was wondering if one can purchase a bracket to bolt onto the mudguard retaining bolt on top of the front forks immediately below the headset. This would have to be offset to clear the cantilever cables. Any thoughts Anthony

A bracket on the fork crown is a common (old-fashioned) solution. Some bar-bags also have a mounting bracket accessory for a light (the Carradice one comes to mind). Or you can wear a headtorch!

Thanks Tom for your reply, I have had lots of comments and thoughts from others on the Cycling UK forum too. As is often the case as soon as one starts looking into things there are loads of solutions available. I have learnt a lot just by looking at the various websites sugggested by people. I have now purchased a good light that will fit on the fork itself and and allow to be positioned pointing down to cover the road in front. Not a dissimilar situation from the old ‘ever ready ‘lamps that we had on our bikes back when I was a child in the 50s and 60s. Though this is a USB rechargeable smaller model. I think this will do the job. So thank you again for your thoughts and I will soon start to read your book on my kindle which arrived today. I look forward to that.

Great site Tom and full of excellent stuff and info. Keep it up.

Kind regards Anthony Brewer

Hi Tom and all, Has anyone any experience of the cantilever brakes designed specifically for tandems and tourers by a company in Seattle USA called Rodriguez bikes., R&E Cycles. They call the design ‘The Big Squeeze’. I looked into this as I am not sure in my mind yet whether my Shimano cantis will work on my Ridgeback Voyage as well as I want on a heavy laden bike on very steep descents. The contact I have had with the American company has been excellent and speedy. They have no distributers or outlets in the UK and the brakes are quite expensive but look with all the information they provide a well thought out and constructed brake. Any comments, opinions or knowledge on this from anyone would be very much appreciated Anthony Brewer

Spa Cycles, a touring specialist fit these. 

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s101p2386/TEKTRO-RX-5-Mini-V-Brakes

I have used them on 4 loaded alpine and Pyrenean tours on my Ridgeback panorama and they have been great. They need fine tuning and true wheels but have plenty of power and work much better than the ones supplied by Ridgeback. My Panorama only cost £450 so I would be reluctant to spend $250 plus shipping on those. Also I am not a fan of the style I think they stick out too much and could cause injury in a collision.

Thank you Phil for your comment on these brakes. I use simialr V brakes on my hybrid as per your link to Spacycles. However as I understand things it isn’t possible (easily that is) to change to V brakes ( which I do like ) without quite some work. I have dropped bars with the gear change incorporated in the brakes. The length of the cable is significant and the possible use of a ‘travel agent ’ to allow for the cable pull etc etc. Are you saying that Spa cycles would change my present cantilver system to these V brakes advertised? As I said I have yet to test my present brakes seriously but will definitely be doing so this spring/summer. Thank you for the recommendation Phil Regards Anthony

No problem Anthony. I ordered them from Spa and fitted them in one hour and I am no expert. May have needed new cables and small sections of outer because of the lengths of the runs but it was straight forward. You can remove the original centre-pull aluminium cable stay as the new cable comes from the side. The original brake levers and repeater levers will work, no new ones are required as the travel is sufficient. I also looked into travel agents to gear up the travel but I agree they are complicated. The mini-vs don’t need the same amount of travel as the full size v‑brake. They are just 85mm not 105mm. Admittedly it is possible with them fitted the level can be pressed right onto the bars, but by that time you would be over the handle bars. The large amount of travel gives you precise control. 

It is very straight forward to fit but you could always order them and get the local bike shop to fit them.

PS the cantilevers supplied on Ridgeback tourers are on the verge of being dangerous on a fully loaded tourer down a steep hill. I recommend changing them to Tektro mini- v brakes I showed you or Tekro CR720 

http://www.highonbikes.com/tektro-cr720-cyclo-cross-bike-cantilever-brakes-front-rear.html?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0WpP5LLsbie8YcECqv8AAZxpL0R1slUyaJFRFZzcQghoC0YTw_wcB

I don’t like them because as I previously said they stick out too much

Again many thanks Phil. You have certainly given me much to consider. However the Tektro CR720 are themselves cantilever brakes too. So I wonder why you have suggested these as a possible alternative to my present tektro Oryx cantilever brakes on my Ridgeback? They look very similar. I do appreciate your comments on this subject Anthony

the CR720s are used by my co-cyclists on tours and are much better than the oryx design in terms of efficiency. It’s all about the distance from the rim to where the cable connects, much more leverage. I included them as an alternative but would still favour the mini-v’s personally.

they look very different from your once fitted: http://bananarider.com/product/tektro-cr720/

Hi, would you consider Specialized Crosstrail Disc 2017 a good touring bike? I am looking forward to buy my first bike aiming to use it for a long tour (upto 3–6 months) next year around europe.

Also a doog opyion in my opinion: http://www.kross.pl/en/2016/trekking/trans-alp

I’ve recently purchased a Cinelli Hobooleg for £1100, although I’ve only been using it for my 10 mile commute so far I’m very happy with it.

It looks the part and from the reviews I’ve read it will hopefully see me safely around North Wales on my first proper test run later this month.

Looking at the features of these touring bikes they look like early 90s mountain bikes. 26″ wheels?Check. Steel frame? Check. Rigid fork? Check. 7/8 speed drive train with thumb shifters? Check. Braze ons for racks and fenders? Check. I would suggest folks keep an eye out for a good used mountain bike from this era and you could save a bunch while ending up with a bike just as robust, lighter and with higher quality parts(granted, said parts may need some love). I found an abandoned Rocky Mountain Team Comp which has frame tubing better than any of the bikes listed (heat treated tubing by Tange of Japan). The bikes of this era were of very high quality as it was the fastest growing sport then and the competition was fierce with leaps in steel tubing technology. Steel was still the material of choice also. I managed to build my bike up(it was missing a lot of parts) for maybe $500 and I have XTR rear derailleur, Sunrace 8 cassette, Suntour XC thumb shifters, Syncros stem, NOS XT UN73 BB…you get the picture. The additional bonus is a bike that is still quite light yet strong. I wouldn’t recommend this to someone who knows nothing about bikes but if you are a bit of a bike geek its pretty rewarding finding a good higher end mountain bike and fixing it up. Parts back then were very well made.

Hey Tom, Edinburgh Bikes have a new tourer out end of the month, http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-country‑2–16

I’m sure it’s similar to your reviewed bike above but would be great to hear your thoughts.

looking at a bike trip in 2018 from shanghai to istanbul semi-supported. been doing self-supported touring on my 25 yo trek 970 but the sour grape machine is ready to be retired. been shopping around and am considering the novara safari–i like the mustache handlebars and the price seems good but worried about the quality of components and whether 700 wheels are potentially a problem…i know 26″ is more the standard when you are in the middle of nowhere. any input would be much appreciated.

Tom, I have been researching touring bikes for quite some time and I think I have found the bike to start touring. Following your advice in this blog I picked up a 15 year old MTB that is in great shape. I will put on touring tires and a rack that I already own and I’m ready to go on some short introductory adventures. Perhaps if I really get the touring bug I will invest in a new bike but for now this will do and the price is right. Thank you.

For anyone currently looking, my local LBS, The Bike Shed Devon, have a bit of a touring sale going on at the moment. Definitely worth looking before making any decisions. http://www.bikesheduk.com/touring-bikes-for-sale

Thank you very much for the tip on discounted 2015 Dawes Galaxy AL bicycles from Evans. I just picked one up for £400!

Evans has also the Dawes Galaxy Cross cromo (steel frame, disc brakes, straight bars) for the same price. Looks like a bargain.

Having cycled and backpacked since I was at school, in my mid 50’s i decided it was time to combine the two persuites and try a spot of weekend touring. Not wanting to spend too much on a bike that i may not get on with, I bought my daughters barely used 2001 Specialized Hardrock off her. It cost me £225 new originally, so she recon I got a bargain at £40 second hand!!! It’s Cr Mo steel frame and rigid forks [not even butted], Acera group set, square drive triple chain rings and 26″ wheels, have a real solid feel, so after fitting Marathon tyres, racks, and bar ends, I treated myself to a pair of 46li Altus rear panniers and a bar bag. Packing lightweight and minimalist, my first weekend away was a real success. On my next outing of 4‑days, a rear spoke went after the first 20 miles, but no rubbing, so I finished my tour in the Cotswolds, but walked up a lot of hills. For my next trip in the Peak District, I had a new twin-wall rear wheel, and a new wider range rear cassette, still walked up many hills, but who cares, I was wild camping, and just making my route up as I went along. I keep looking at new bikes, but don’t know how I would really benefit, the bike just keeps rolling along happily for my short breaks. A new bike may weigh less. My rig weighs in at 16.5kg without panniers, how does that compare with other tourers?

So, the ultimate all-round tourer *is* a 26 inch wheel frame with geometry which looks like my many-times-earmarked-for-the-skip, first generation, double-butted cro-mo mid-80s MTB that’s in the shed? It confirms my own conclusions (though I’m no hardcore global wanderer like yourself). Interesting that it looks as if 26″ wheels will remain relevant. I was thinking there is a gap in the market for a longer and near-horizontal toptube frame style (with, perhaps, 29er wheels), instead of the downhill-style geometry which seems obligatory on all fat-tyre machinery.

[…] spend money on a good bike and the necessary gear you’ll find costs are minimal. Many good quality bikes can be purchased for less than £100. Many travelling bicyclists choose to camp at official […]

Thanks for the advice! I was faffing around for about a year trying to buy a touring bike in the UK but never quite got around to it. I’m now in Vietnam about to set off in a time pressured trip to India (through Laos, Thailand and Myanmar) and I no longer have the same access to the kinds of brands mentioned above(or budgets). I’ve found something called a Windspeed Long Rider touring classic, which is a Chinese brand, and the bike shop is offering a pretty good deal inclusive of accessories. Let’s hope it’s up to the job! Anyone have any experience or knowledge of this bike? Mostly sold only in Asia I think.

Hi. I am trying to choose a bike for touring around the world that would be a slow heavyweight may be some times off road and long term! but in my country there is not a wide choice for me! I have to choose a bike and change it into a touring one! my question is what kind of bikes is good for me! road bikes that mostly used here for races or mountain! here i can find bikes from Merida , giant, Fuji, Scott, specialized! of course I have an old Peugeot mountain bike that i was thinking about changing in to a touring bike but i am not sure! it is too old! thank you 🙂

Finally bought me touring bike, a Specialized AWOL DLT. Took your advice to try it and decided on a medium instead of a large frame (I’m 5′9″) since it was more comfortable. The problem was to find any bike shops who stocks touring bikes in Sweden, found only the AWOL, Kona Rove and Trek 520. As a plus I got a good discount, paid “only” £760 (Evans charges £1160) since the dealer said -“customers ask for touring bikes and then they do not buy them”!

Hi Rob, where in Sweden did you buy it ? I am in Norway (Oslo to be precise) and can´t find any shop stocking touring bikes.

Hi Francesco, http://www.cykelhuset.com sell Specialized AWOL, http://www.jarlacykel.se sell Trek 520 and http://www.fixmybike.se sell Kona. I have only ridden the AWOL and the Rove, both seemed very competent. Just on way back from virgin trip Sassnitz — Berlin, so far satisfied, love the 700x42c tires, perfect for tarmac and gravel!

Tom, for my 21st birthday I got a Cannondale T1000, 22 years and 15000 miles later (low mileage bike) it is going strong. It has been to Paris a couple of times, Amserdam 4 or 5 times and one long trip from Cherbourg to Santander as well as numerous day and weekend UK outings, it has towed a Tag Along for a fair few miles and had a child seat for some of its life. Much of today’s riding is spent on minor roads and tracks around the New Forest and Wiltshire. Few parts have worn out, I am on the second BB, and I upgraded the chainset to an ultegra, other than a couple of tyres, chains and cassettes I have had to do very little. I love the bar end shifters for their reliability, the XT cantilever brakes do a good job stopping the bike, even on 50 mph descents in the Pyraneese with full panniers and camping gear and my 80 kg weight. With an 11 to 32 cassette, 24 speed are fine on a tourer, spacing is well judged. It is really hard to imagine how it could be improved on.….

I just picked up a 2004 Cannondale T2000 for my son’s 13 birthday. Cost just £300 and looks fantastic, in fact looks new. I am surpised how light it is. It Has a few upgrades, including a nice Kinesis fork, which delivers a much nicer ride than my T1000 and it also has a 30 speed XT / ultegra group set and a really nice looking rack. Overall this is the nicest bike I have ever ridden, it is adjusted to perfection and feels really well sorted definately a subtle but noticeable upgrade from the T1000

How does an older mid range tourer like the Cannondale T1000 or T2000 compare with today’s mid range tourers like the Surly LHT or Daws Super Galaxy

To be honest I would be really confident that my Cannondale could tackle a more adventurous tour than I have tried

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” – that sums up any longer and more detailed response I could come up with! 🙂

hey tom! an interesting article you have here 🙂 hopefully you can shed some light on my situation. me and my mate are literally just starting out after training, we are planning a big trip! Our trip in mind is taking us from the uk, through france and to the south of spain. we figure that we want a bike that can take the distance, but can also take us as off road as is sensible. we plan on visiting a few cities also! (we’re thinking cobbled streets and some gravelly paths) so im not entirely sure what kind of bracket we fall under, but the bike i have put a deposit down for (buying new) and am collecting tomorrow, is a specialized sirrus, costing 400 pounds sterling. am i looking in the right kind of bike here considering our journey and our plans? 

as far as i understand (our beginner cycling pedigree in mind) pad brakes are risk free and easily replaced, steel frame and forks are more durable. would having flat bar handle bars restrict us some what? hope you can help! thanks, cillian.

For a trip to the south of Spain pretty much any bike will do, as long as it fits you and it can carry your luggage! (I hope you’ve test ridden this bike before buying it – most important thing of all in getting the right bike!)

Check out this blog series if you want any more info on specific components and things…

Thanks for the swift reply there Tom, yeah I’ve ridden the bike, but as I’m a complete novice, it feels better than any bike I can remember riding. I guess I’m concerned about getting a bike with the right geometry and what not! Any unbiased thoughts on the specialised sirrus as my choice? So long as it’s comfortable of coarse, thanks! Cil

Only that it’s not really a touring bike! £500 would get you a Revolution Country Traveller which would be fully kitted out for touring and has had a number of excellent reviews. You could also get a much higher-spec second hand touring bike for that money.

Fit is important, but if you’re buying a new bike it might make sense to get one that’s designed for the job at hand, rather than adapting a hybrid. Just a thought!

excellent advice good sir! its seems for now that we are settling for our hybrids in good faith that they will pay off when we are mooching around cities and taking scenic bridle ways! thanks a lot for the replies Tom, happy cycling!

Safe roads!

Do you or others on this site have experiences with the Co-Motion bicycles for touring (www.co-motion.com)? They are made in the USA (Eugene, Oregon).. 

I have a Surly LHT with many miles on it and wanted to updated to the new 2015 Disc Trucker with the 10-speen 11/36 cassette, but was considering the Co-Motion Americano. There is a LARGE price delta (Americano is around $ 4,100 US$.

Any experiences/feedback is appreciated.

Have a TERRIFIC day!

Darren Alff of Bicycle Touring Pro has it — Co-Motion Pangea — and he loves it! He had it even repainted recently and put back again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XAwqgXhRzc&t=23s See also his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCGE4MRedy8pXEdJb9Vsx‑g

Most of the touring bikes I read about in this section either deal with 700c size wheels or 26″ wheels. I bought a Surly Ogre 29er and it’s been the best commuting/touring bike in my opinion. The wider wheels help to accommodate a wider tire (1.9–2.3) that helps absorb the load that you’d be carrying.

You can fit 1.9–2.3″ tyres on a 26″ wheel too. It is the original mountain bike wheel size, after all!

[…] Redninga for den som vil gjøre grundig research blir da å slå over til engelsk. Et bildesøk på “touring bike” bekrefter at dette begrepet har en bestemt betydning. Søket “which touring bike to buy” gir også en endeløs rekke med relevante og informative treff. Spesielt godt liker jeg rådene til min favorittsykkelblogger, britiske Tom Allen. […]

Hi Tom … any thoughts of including a recumbent in your Best Touring Bike selection? Like say an Azub 6? http://www.azub.eu/azub-5-five-recumbent-bike/

While they are the cost of two or three of the above selections I’m interested in your experience or opinions?

Because they’re very much in a niche of their own, I’d rather do a whole feature on recumbent touring options. Suggestions welcome! In the meantime, have a read of my own recumbent tour last year …

This has been an interesting read — as I’m a devout touring bike user, even though touring the world is not on my horizon. Suffolk and noerh Essex are most definitely part of my equation and between 50 — 110 miles per trip are not unusual along with cycling to and from work.

For 18 years I’ve enjoyed my long sought after 1997 Dawes Super Galaxy, which is now up for a complete drive train rebuild (and a return to drop handlebars but without those awful bar end changers), but I’m also keen to add a second bike to the collection as the Dawes is the only form of transport I have and really do need a bike to get to work for as early as 3am (outside public transport times).

My 2 options are the new 2015 Dawes Super Galaxy or the 2015 Ultra Galaxy. Yes, I’m sticking with Dawes, with my current Super Galaxy’s record why not? Also, I can get the bike via the company bike to work scheme and save some dosh. Whilst the budget is between £2000-£3000, I reason over 18 years this will become a bit of a bargain. So the question of this comment is really this:

What are the benenfits of the Titanmium Frame on the Ultra Galaxy over the Reynolds 853 tubing on the Super Galaxy frame? Do I really need to spend that extra £700?

Please, no comments about lucky you etc — it is 18 years since I last made this big an investment and apart from new tyres and inner tubes and a swap to butterfly handlebars the bike is pretty much as it came out of the shop (despite almost 100k miles of travel and commuting). I see this as the kind of purchase that is similar to that of purchasing a car…

Hi Andrew — what did you decide on in the end and are you happy with that decision? I find myself looking at exactly the same choice to make (Galaxy super vs. ultra). It’s not straightforward!

Although I am not a touring cyclist I put in quite a bit of mileage commuting (around 120 miles per week) using either a steel audax type bike (Ridgeback Mercury), alu hybrid or ancient Dawes Horizon (fitted with studded tyres for snowy/icy days). Fancying doing a bit of touring I recently bought a Revolution Explorer with disc brakes and have been riding it since Christmas. Has to be said that the disc brakes are a revelation compared to any sort of rim brake (I have tried them all apart from hydraulic); no constant adjustment, no rim wear, no filthy aluminium slurry all over the rims, silent and they actually work in the rain ( of which there is plenty here in Lancashire). The latter point saved me earlier this week when I had to do any emergency stop to avoid an idiot driver, I doubt any other sort of brake would have been up to it. And I am talking about BB5s which I understand are budget disc brakes.

I am about to buy an used tourer for occasional touring use for my son, he has a Ribble road bike. Budget £300 and I have a choice of Ridgeback World Voyage 2012 …520 CroMo.…Sora.…Alivio etc or a ‘Dale T800 2003, hardly used, Ally.…CroMo forks…Tiagra.…XT etc. I can easily make decisions at work involving lots of cash…but this one appears to have me foxed!! (I have a stable of steeds and tour on a Roberts Roughstuff, I should be able to choose!!!) Please help! Thanks one and all!

[…] utstyret du velger når du skal legge ut på en lang sykkeltur. På nettsida si har han skrevet om hva som er den beste tursykkelen. I eboka går han atskillig mer grundig til verks. Verdt å nevne er at han legger spesiell vekt […]

you forgot koga miyata 😉

I’ve just bought the 2015 Ridgback Tour.

Ive just this minute seen that aluminium frames have a much lower life expectancy than steel due to the fact that they fatigue — is this true? Ive heard that 5 years is the life expectancy of such a frame even if cared for? Have I bought a white elephant — as I planned to treasure it. Thanks.

I’ve just thinking that all bikes mentioned above are in price of year long trip. My humble suggestion is: buy retail! I bought a trek bike in pawn shop for 180euro and so far this holds for 4 seassons (16000km, regions spread from scandinavia to balkans) and now I’m preparing this beauty for 17000km long trip from czechia to indonesia. Throughout these trips I never broke a spoke (seen this problem many times in my friends Dawes) and punctured so few times that it can hardly be mentioned. So far I spend almost 6 months on the roads and during this time I spend less money than price of the cheapiest bike mentioned above.

So my advice is search it, test it, uprgade it, love it and than… finally ride it,-D Put a piece of your heart and skills into your piece of metal. Relationship between tourbiker and his bike must be stronger than click on ebay. Sorry for english and toilet phylosophy, I’m still upgrading,-D

Tom, I just wanted to say a very big thank-you for helping me choose the right touring bike. After spending many evenings checking your advice and loads of websites, I finally opted for a Dawes Galaxy Classic. I took your advice and went via eBay to Kingsway Cycles of Cambridge. I paid £900 instead of £1300 for a 2014 model! More importantly, it’s the right bike. I’ve only done about 60 miles since Saturday, but it’s really excellent. Kingsway are a great bike shop and really nice to deal with — none of that irritating superiority complex so common in good bike shops. I’d recommend them. Again, thank you. Alistair

Seven things:

Now the bike is bedding-in, before a big trip, have the LBS tighten your spokes and true the wheel(s) as required.

Take the time to ensure that the inside of the wheel rims have wide tape, not plastic or thin tape — you will thank me when you don’t get pinch-flats from the inner spoke nipples.

Chop out the brakes for V brakes. I have the same cantilever brakes, and they’re poor. It’s my next upgrade after upgrading my wheel set — as you can tell, this is real-world experience talking here!

If you fit a Ortleib (or similar) bar mounted bag, replace the existing gear cables with extra long ones since they are a little too short as standard and will crop over time and your gear shifting will become increasing difficult and then the front mech’ will cease working.

If you are running Shimano gearing,chain etc make sure the jockey wheels are not a 3rd party set, if so, buy Shimano ones, they work better than others.

You will notice as you ride, most of the touring bikes you’ll encounter are Dawes; how cool is that?

The enjoyment of your adventure is reflected in the width of your daft Cheshire-Cat grin, so grin, then grin some more!

Fantastic! I hope you get many years of touring enjoyment from it!

Hello Tom & Co.,

Do you have input on preferred bikes / systems for long rides with two young kids? 

Preferably sub-$2,000 (US), with a granny gear, and disc brakes.

I am trying to figure out which adult touring bike (and system) to use with my kids. The four-year old child will be in an attached trailer bike (with coupler), and the two-year old child will be in a chariot trailer behind that (via skewer hub)…unless someone has a better idea.

I already own a Specialized Tarmac for zipping around, and a Santa Cruz mountain bike for the trails. For a few years, I’ve reluctantly used my carbon fiber Tarmac for pulling my oldest child in the Chariot trailer. The ergonomics are all wrong, especially in the hills.

Now I have both a four-year old and a two-year old child, plus we live in major mountains. I want to do LONG family rides, and commutes around town (paved / gravel mixed). Ideally the bike could also be used for (solo) century rides. Once they are older, I’d like to explore multi-day touring with me on the same bike.

Salsa Vaya? Trek 520? Surly LHT, Cross Check, or Straggler? 

Big thanks!

[…] started thinking about this tour; my thoughts immediately went to the tried&true options for bike touring (Surly LHT for example), and I was waiting for a deal to pounce on online for months.  But living […]

3864 miles thus far (26 Sept 2014) around Britain and without doubt the most popular bike is the Dawes, maybe 80% (?) streel framed in the majority, and whilst we are at it, Ortlieb panniers, also in the majority.

I am on a 2008 Dawes SG. Rubbish cantilever brakes — to be replaced in short order. Replaced the wheels as the rims were concave, but she is an eBay Special (£590) likewise the four panniers (£83). Fantastic combo with Tubus steel racks.

Hi Tom, I believe the bikes from German Company Tout Terrain have a good name as well. Namely the “Silkroad” seems a fantastic bike to me. Expensive but has all the gimmicks I like to have (Rohloff and disc brakes). http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/silkroad/

i was stranded in london on the 4th aug (after losing my oyster and bank cards) leaving me with just £10 and a predicament a quick look on gumtree found me a nearby bike (complete with 21 speeds and rack and double panniers inc cycle comp for my insane budget and now 10 days later its covered 120 miles and by far best buy ever for a tenner 🙂

ps i live 18 miles away in the subarbs so as to speak

Love the site, especially the discussions on this page!

I’m interested in your views on bar-end shifters. My wife’s Sabbath Silk Route was stolen in Amsterdam recently and she’s loathe to spend quite so much on a replacement. Many of the sub-£1,000 tourers seem to have bar-end shifters and she’s a bit nervous about taking them on. What are the pros and cons compared with integrated brake lever shifters? Quite like the look of the Genesis Tour de Fer but the bar end shifters are the only sticking point.

Pros: Simple, durable, reliable.

Cons: Less efficient to actually operate; inexperienced users whack their knees on them.

For a long-term tourer I’d take bar-end or downtube shifters over STIs any day.

I bought the Tour de Fer and did an 8 day tour in Greece. Its an excellent bike and I’m really happy with it but the bar shifters are annoying. I decided to upgrade the bike with a tubus tara front rack and a son dynamo hub with a plug usb charger. I’ll do a review of the bike later as I’m about to set off on a tour to Singapore something its probably not designed for but it came within my Ride-To-Work budget and I’m not a fan of the 26inch tourers I’d rather take my chances in the bikes shops. FYI the new version has a flat bar instead of drops and a tubus tara lowrider as standard — bonus! Love your site it’s been invaluable in my tour planning

You can always move the bar end shifters up onto the flats using a solution like Pauls Thumbies or SJS do their own version. It’s just a bolt on bracket with a mount for the shifter and a cable stop. If you ride mainly on hoods and flats then they are much easier to reach than down at the end of the drops. Cable maintenance is easier as well.

Many thanks for your excellent website. I’m thinking of doing Land’s End to John O’Groats and have seen a Raleigh Gran Tour at our local cycle shop. It seemed fine on a trial run round the block. Any significant pros or cons that I need to be aware of?

Nick check out the Surly Long Haul Disc Trucker it will be the best Touring Bike you will ever buy and will take you anywhere wheel size go for 26 and you can travel the world buy once not twice

Thanks John. I’ll check it out. 

Another issue that’s coming up is tourers vs endurance bikes. Any strong preferences either way, anyone?

Are you doing an endurance ride? Or are you going on a cycle tour?

Different tools for different jobs…

Hi Tom, I was wondering if you had any experience or knowledge of the Cinelli Hobo? It does seem to come as a fairly complete package as well as a 61 frame which is good for a tall person like myself.

I’m afraid I don’t! Sorry! It does look like a good bike, though.

I have a cinelli hobo for mixed trail touring. I find it incredibly comfortable and a really good load hauler. Some of the stock parts are pretty poor, particularly the FSA alpha drive chainset (replaced with Deore, and the alex rims on sora hubs which i’ve recently replaced. The weakest part of the setup for me is the microshift bar end shifters… I had real trouble keeping them indexed. I have swapped for an old pair of Tiagra STI shifters and these feel much better with a deore chainset and rear mech.

It has shorter chainstays than my old galaxy but still has plenty of heel clearance fitted with ortlieb classic panniers. The bars are the most comfortable I have ever used!

Overall i’m really pleased with it as it suits my choice of riding on mixed road, track and trail with a nice blend of cyclocross and touring capabilities… just a shame the marketing around the bike is so goddamn annoying!

I am planning a touring for next year, I was thinking to get a bicycle with a 29’‘ rim using a 28c tyre, i also plan to use mavic hubs, but i am not sure how tough a mavic hub can be on long touring distances, i guess i may not have problems as far i get some spare bearings and parts for the hubs. any suggestion about the rim sizes? will a 27″ rim do the same job as a 29’’ rim size? I have seen that NS has some cool looking hubs, i know they are for dirt-jump bikes, but those are something i consider dues they are do to resist hard impact of daily trainings, but my doubt is if a a hub for hard impact interfere with speed and smooth riding, by logic i guess it doesn’t interfere depending on what bearing it uses…am i right? Ps.: i enjoy cycling fast. lol

i found some other hub, the DT Swiss looks pretty good… but they don’t have a nice front hub with Disk break, that is what is pity, but i may get normal brakes, cos the disk brake has a high cost maintenance …

Where are you going? Your primary consideration is spare parts availability. 26″ or 700c wheels are the only sensible choice for 99% of tours, and I wouldn’t recommend anything other than Shimano cup-and-cone hubs with loose bearings and easy maintenance, ideally XT. They’re tour proven and won’t need a second thought.

Have found your website invaluable in the preparation of a bike trip my brother and I are making from London to Istanbul on August 10 (our first bike trip). I bought your book this afternoon on Amazon too as it should be a handy guide on the trip.

I’m just about to buy a bike and have come down to the Dawes Galaxy 2014 for £691 and the Raleigh Sojourn, which I founded hugely discounted here for £689 (down from £1,100!): http://www.ashcycles.com/site/raleigh-sojourn-2013 . I’d be very grateful if you (or anyone else on this page) could suggest what you think would be the better buy for my budget of £700?

Cheers, Shaun

Very glad you’ve found this site useful.

In my experience, which touring bike to buy depends on choosing the right tool for the job, and seeing what feels good to ride. I’m going to guess that you’re fairly sure both these bikes will meet your needs, but that you haven’t tried either of them out. So the only useful suggestion I can offer is to see which you can test-ride locally. On paper they’re as good as identical. You can discuss specification charts until the cows come home but it’ll all be irrelevant once you’ve actually started riding.

Ideally you’d test-ride both, but if you can only try one, then at least you can either eliminate it from your shortlist or confirm that it’ll do the job — then buy it.

The other critical reason for testing bikes out is to ensure that you get the right size, as incorrectly-sized bikes are the biggest source of discomfort and even injury on tour.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot for the tip Tom and appreciate you taking the time out to respond to me.

I’m based in HK and so unfortunately won’t be able to test-ride either of them (only a narrow window in London and they have to be ordered in advance), but if you say that the specs are identical then it makes the decision a bit easier — comes down to the aesthetics now!

I’ve got a KHS TR-101, bought from Cycle Surgery. Since these are relatively uncommon, I thought I’d put up my thoughts.

It’s a lovely bike to ride and I’ve done 2 3‑week trips to New Zealand South Island on it, usually somewhere between 50 and 100km a day. But I do think the brakes are not good enough for a tourer — I’m going to switch mine out after realising as I coasted down from Arthurs’ Pass in the rain with a loaded bike that I couldn’t stop even if I wanted to — and the mudguard fittings have been annoying — little plastic clips which pop ou, and which don’t hold the guard far out, so it rubs the tyres if the guard gets even slightly warped. Both easily replaced though. I’ve carried medium weights on it — prob. ca. 20kg — with ease, using both front and back racks and it feels very smooth and well-balanced. In fact, I think it’s the easiest bike I’ve ever ridden in that respect. Even the stock saddle is OK although I’m finally switching to a Brooks.

I don’t find the gears allow me to get up big hills when it’s loaded (but that might be just me — I’m not very gritty about hills.…) but it’s very smooth to handle and way faster than most other bikes off the bigger hills. 

I’ve done almost all on road on it and wouldn’t do off road again after an 80km run on the gravel Mavora Lakes road — it coped but it wasn’t nice (could have been the headwind…).

I’m planning one or two more 3 week tours on it (New Zealand again, and then maybe Sri Lanka) but am trying to work out whether in the long term I should just upgrade the parts, or actually invest in another bike. It’s a lovely cycle though — I’d really recommend it, although if you are looking for a real round-the-world workhorse it might be worth looking at some of the more established models. 

No bike is without problems, it aint about the bike without blood, sweat and tears :-X

Hi Tom — Great site, very informative and helpful. I´m looking at setting up my first Touring / Expedition rig.

Wondering if you wouldn´t mind commenting on Santos Bikes out of Holland? I see they make some great looking touring bikes, but only in Aluminium.…I asked them why they dont do Steel and their reply was that the Steel / Belt Drive combination is not good, ie to flexible and that the belt will wear just as fast as a regular chain, therefore, they go with Aluminium?? Any comment. Also, thoughts on the Belt Drive in Combination with a Rohloff Hub??

I´m looking at a go anywhere, do anything rig…2 week tours in Europe and RTW adventures. 

Thanks if you can help me out and keep up the great work 🙂

Hi guys, spoilt for choices,the steel v ali debate?? V brake or disc??Santos i havent seen but if its dutch id expect its a good bike, like koga who use aluminium for rtw touring(a reason people like ali is light for air transit, and it wont rust like steel) but can be a harsh ride,so invest in a suspension seat and a brooks saddle,backside will thank ya..Roholf or mech?? Roholf belt drive i have met a tourer using and he was happy with it, expensive combo but if it rolls for 100,000klm and comp have good rep. As it comes to preference and trail n error..I a bit like yourself wanted a rtw expadition bike. I got a thorn ripio frame which i then built up myself …doing that i chose my best spec bits xt tubus fsa brookes ergo etc( finding good reductions online) and most important get to know how it goes together ..useful as often u must rely on yourself to fix the problem and keep those wheels rolling:-) i like steel frames as they flex and are more comfortable with luggage…frames i would say are worth considering are as mentioned by others, surly lht , thorn and an excellent other is onone.…another option is to find a good old used bike/steel frame i.e 90’s atb/mtb models by specialised, trek, orange and upgrade as reqiured. Invest in strong wheels if offroading full loaded and good tyres, schwable marathon xr are excellent and after 20,000 klms they still got tread. A final thought an expensive shiny touring bike looks great to the owner and a theif, to protect my ride i wrap the frame in old inner tube and tape so protecting frame from damage and making my pride and joy look like a dirty ol ride! Thats all folks:-)

Thanks for the contribution!

Sadly the Schwalbe Marathon XR was discontinued years ago now 🙁

Hi tom and troops„, yeah the xr was too good „buy once product, found early originals recently 2 in holland…(where else.. for any tourers holland is ur candy store). So what u rollin on these days??? p.s u on a tour??? Bon route:-)

Not right now, no. But I have my own stash of XRs for when I am 🙂

Hi Tom, very interesting article. My wife and I are looking to buy touring bikes. We would use them in Europe initially — we have a small child who will be with us on a seat so we’ll leave Africa and Asia etc for a few years. I was thinking of a Genesis Croix de Fer , 725 reynolds probably rather than the expensive 931. What are your thoughts? Versatile but do you think they fall between two stools. Thanks, Mark

The Surly long Haul Disc Trucker not only Ticks all the Boxes but you will only ever need to purchase this bicycle Once No need to upgrade this bicycle will be perfect and last a lifetime of Touring wherever your dreams take you Go for the 26 wheels far stronger and gives you an extra gear on steep inclines happy cycling

Sorry, Now I have seen that you have an article about the Tern Link P24 and touring with a folding bike. My suggestion was totally redundant.

But no less appreciated! Thank you for a great summary (and much a much broader one than mine!)

Thanks Tom for all your great articles. I think that folding bikes are a serious alternative for long-term touring. Certainly less sturdy but have many advantages, easy to carry on planes or busses if needed or into hotel rooms and tents for added security. They are getting better with more reliable frames, even with full suspension (Reise und Muller birdy touring) and all the best specs up to Rohloff and dynamo hubs. Small wheels are not good beyond tarmac or good dirt tracks but there are a foding bikes with 24″ and 26″, though I will go for 20″ as a perfect balance between comfort, stable handling and still compact size when folded, bearing in mind it may nor be the best option to do the Pamir highway or crossing the Andes. There are some models speced for touring with pannier racks, mudguards etc. Tern link P24, Dahon MU with alfine 11 and the awsome Birdy. Worth considering.

[…] reading the reviews of Tom Allen and reading a bit about what is important in a touring bicycle, I became convinced that the Kona […]

Hello Tom, your website is amazing, well done! I’m about to undertake a long bike tour through Asia and Europe …unfortunately my budget is very limited. I think I will buy the kona sutra but I also saw this bike which I really like http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/anyroad.1/14819/66151/ Can you please give me some advice comparing the two models?

I will also convert the bike in an e‑bike with the golden motor magic pie conversion kit plus a solar panel . Do you think the conversion will affect the efficiency of the bike?

Thank you very much for the help Vince

Hi Tom, Great article thanks! I bought a 2008 Ridgeback Panorma World Tour in 2011 and I have loved every moment on it. It’s the old BMW grey model. I have been an occassional cyclist for much of my life but it was only when i got this bike that it really made me want to do more and more miles. We have done the UK coast to coast and will be doing the Way of the Roses in the next few weeks; also did Penrith to John O’Groats when I met up with friends doing LeJog. It eats up the miles and has been bullet proof. Once it’s rolling it flies and the Deore gearing gets me up anything. If anyone is considering this model I wholeheartedly recommend it. I swapped out the saddle for a Brooks B17 and put Ortlieb panniers on it and both have been unbeatable performers. I only wish I could match them 🙂 Cheers Mart

i thank for this advice.this would encourage many of them to cycle.i to got encouraged. i have cycled about Km400 this is just the start,i think all cyclist belong to one family.

I’m planning on building a bike for a round the world adventure but I’m overwhelmed by the choices of frames! Surly, thorn, Kona… The obvious choice for a frame would be a Surly Long Haul, but the geometry doesn’t fill me with excitement. My dream bike and frame is the Santos 2.6 (It looks and feels more like a MTB than a tourer), but at almost £800 for the frame it’s way out of my price range. Flat bars or butterflys are a must for me as I really don’t understand this facination with dropdowns. Top of my list currently and within my price range is a Surly Troll. What are your thoughts about the troll as a world tourer? Should I stick with the tried and tested Surly Long Haul (although I’m not sure if the LHT geometry is ideal for flat bars) or go a bit leftfield and try the Troll?

getting ready for a st malo — malaga ride in the spring and am looking at the Specialized Awol:

http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/awol

How would you say it compares with the Kona Sutra?

Fantastic website, btw.…

It looks like an interesting bike, if a rather specialised one (sorry) — almost a dirt-road racer with luggage racks, which I think is what Kona have tried to do with the Sutra (mistakenly IMHO; should have been a new model altogether). It looks like a bike for light and nimble loads rather than fully-loaded touring, with 32-spoke wheels and the 10-speed Sora chainset. I’d be very interested to hear a road test report if you do go with it.

Bob Nally!! You may think trying to advertise in here is a good thing which either makes you extremely clever or extremely stupid, which is it folks?? thanks for the info Bob but just encase your advertising here hadn’t noticed this is a about info, advice and camaraderie between true people that have cyling in their heart and you may (or may not) realise this, anyway. guys im a very short woman 4.10 so finding it very hard to find a touring bike to suit me (my mountain bike is 14 inches) but i’m finding it very hard to find something withing my price limit Tom and everyone else, I’m looking for a man’s tourer that can suit my height (I CAN NOT STAND THE LOOK OF WOMANS BIKES) lol so hopefuly I can have Tom or someone else to give me a tip on a “short ass” tourer lol

Does Bob Nally work for Ash Cycles, then? If so, he probably has cycling in his heart too. I’m pleased to hear about it if there’s a relevant deal on, though it would be nice if people disclosed their affiliations of course.

What’s your price limit, Pam? The 26-inch Surly LHT is available right down to a 42cm frame. After that you’ve got seatpost, saddle, stem and cranks to tweak the fit.

For anyone looking for a new bike AshCycles (UK) have the Dawes Galaxy Classic 2013 (and many more bikes) discounted to £879.95 with free delivery.

Thanks for pointing this out!

Hi Tom, I´ve been falling you for over a year and love the movie and the book. I feel like the world is telling me to move south–I´m in Colombia right now and I want to go to Argentina. I am looking into bikes to buy here, and it is very difficult to find aone in a place full of little people (I´m 193cm tall). But that is a problem that I can manage. 

Here in Bogota, these types of cargo racks ( http://bogotacity.olx.com.co/biciclta-panadera-iid-578339198 ) are very popular and they can definately hold a bunch of weight (they usually come in black). I know that there would be wind issues, especially with the front rack–but what do you think of mounting one of these on the back or possibly mounting on both the front and the back of a bike. I´m not too worried about speed but much more worried about control. 

On another note, I bought this from kickstarter ( http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flykly/flykly-smart-wheel ) and when it is developed and shipped to me this summer, I plan to use it to get from point A to point B… I don´t know if it will work or not, the only downside is that I cannot change gears with it… We´ll see. 

On another note–can you recommend a book for learning how to repair/assemble a bike… 

Thanks in advance for the advice and I will probably have a hundred more questions in the coming weeks and months… Say hi to your brother Ben for me… If everything goes to hell in a handbasket, I might just fly to Lebanon in February for the big event.

Hey Wes… faced with a cargo rack decision like that, the only way to know for sure is to take one for a test ride. I think you’d attract a fair amount of attention if you did go with it! 🙂

The Park Tool website is the number one resource for bicycle repair tuition. I’m not aware of a specific book, though.

Drop me an email if you have any more questions — always happy to help.

Hi Tom, just discovered your website and am so inspired that my wife, daughter and I are planning a tour to Paris next year. Anyway…I have a Specialized Sirrus hybrid that to my novices eye seems to be similar to most of the touring bikes above. The only obvious difference being aluminum frame, flat bars and no racks etc. The components all seem similar. Would there be much point in changing to a tourer? Cheers.

If you can fit a rear rack to that frame, you’re good to go. Even if you can’t, a seatpost rack will do you from here to Paris. Enjoy!

Touring bikes are great if you need full camping gear. I rode a kona Jake the snake lisbon-istanbul, cuba etc, cyclocross bikes should be considered for light touring is.bivy sack and no cooking gear. Super fast, built strong to off road and just more fun and nimble to ride, if that’s your thing. I haven’t been carrying front panniers though, not sure how would ride. I’d encourage really trying to lighten everything up, gear and bike, more rewarding — but this does assume staying within a few hundred km of a store/restaurant/hostel although can be self sufficient for a few days.

Just love this site, ride on tom!

Thanks Yuri. I can count the number of times I’ve been more than a day’s ride from supplies on the fingers of one hand. Almost everyone could “lighten up” and go fast and nimble. I guess it depends on your priorities for being on the road!

Was wondering why you haven’t put any of the Thorn Bikes on your list?..Maybe the Sherpa would be a good mid-range,no? Ian

I haven’t read all the comments so I don’t know if it’s been mentioned (I’ll also hold my hands up here and say I work there) but if we’re talking mid-high end touring bikes then Spa Cycles are worth looking at — http://www.spacycles.co.uk there is now a steel tourer available which is competitively priced.

If we’re talking relatively small UK touring ‘brands’ then Thorn would be worth mentioning too.

Thanks Ben! I haven’t included Thorn here as they’re a bit pricey for the mid-range, but I’ll do so in a future piece on higher end tourers…

No problem, really enjoyed the film on Tuesday in Leeds. Has given me even more enthusiasm for riding the 270 miles home to Dorset for xmas in a week or so. 🙂

I did 6000 miles on my 2011 Cannondale CAADX. The Only upgrade was a pair of heavy duty handbuilt touring wheels a Son 28 Hub and some Schwalbe Marathons.…. I have to say it was the driest 3 month trip you could imagine so the lack of crap picked up to wear the Bike out was noticeable… The Only mechanicals, 2 broken cable and about 4 punctures. Get your bike looked over/serviced before you go and remember this, when you ride your bike normally, what usually goes wrong… I bet nothing.….

Hello Tom & thanks for your very useful and cheerful writings. I’m just getting back into bike touring, and still using my faithful 1977 Dawes Super Galaxy, nearly all original but with a re-enamelling job on the frame. Still pretty well perfect for my long but slow road trips. Brittany’s rolling country is a mine of varied and beautiful scenery : have you tried it? All the best

I haven’t been to Brittany since a school camping trip in 1999… maybe I should 🙂

Tom, you’d be very welcome! so yes, maybe you should! You have my e‑mail via this page, I imagine, so let me know if you’re over here & the Super Galaxy will be wheeled out! 🙂

Hi Tom I’m looking for a top end light tourer that’s very comfortable, capable of going as fast as a tourer can go and at home on Tarmac and on dusty tracks. I intend to carry minimal luggage too. How does the Van Nicholas Amazon (or Yukon) Rohloff compare to the Thorn Mercury? Which would you chose?

I’m sorry but I have absolutely no idea! The only way to know for sure is to ride both. It sounds like your requirements are quite specialised, whereas I’m only really intending to cover generalist mid-range tourers in this article. Sorry!

Thanks a lot for the article. The best I could find on the issue over the net.

My question is, did you get to try Kona Sutra 2014 already? I can’t find any comparisons ; 2013 vs. 2014 — yet there’s the huge change of frame.

I haven’t ridden it myself, but here’s my piece on the changes .

I’ve got a bit of a silly question : How should a touring bike “ride”? I’ve been on “racing” bikes forever and find them comfortable and fun to ride. I’ve been hunting for a touring bike and while they are comfortable to cruise around a bit, they seem far too upright for my riding comfort (makes me feel like I’m riding one of those cheap stationary bikes at the gym, on the first one I tried, I had to drop all the spacers on the stem to get comfy, but then ran into issues with the brake stop/hanger not clearing the head tube) and they feel a bit sluggish and hard to “toss around”, especially when out of the saddle on climbs, even in comparison to my light-weight steel mountain bike. I can see why ultra-low gearing is recommended if all you can do is sit and hammer up the climbs. Is that how it is supposed to be?

Hi Isaac I have recently ridden from Adelaide to Darwin on a Tout Terrain bike and I think there are several characteristics that make the touring bike the right one for you. You need to be comfortable if you are going to spend up to 10hrs in the saddle and the more upright positions of most ‘tourers’, seem to take the weight and pressure from your hands/ arms. Also, the touring bike should never feel “twitchy”, especially when loaded. My Tout Terrain rides the same when laden or un-laden and when you find yourself carrying 15kgs of water plus all other camping gear etc, the bike needs to be predictable. Many bike frames will twist when under a load; as a result, your control, reliability and comfort will suffer. I also like having handlebars that give multiple hand positions, which helps with fatigue. The other consideration is that you are an accomplished road bike rider. You are ‘familiar’ with this lower profile riding position and the road bike handling characteristics. This may be why every other riding position feels foreign. Load up a few different bikes including a road bike and try them out on a few long day trips. Consider the advice of others, but ultimately you need to enjoy touring and your decision should be based on what is right for you. As Tom advises, just get out there and problem solve. In essence, ‘touring’ is not a race and almost any bike can be used. You just need to select the one that feels right for you.

Cheers Mark — I echo these sentiments.

Have you tried riding one with a full load (i.e. 15–25kg luggage split between the front and rear)? A touring bike should feel reassuring and stable under such circumstances as it’s what they’re designed for. Riding them unburdened is not going to give you a realistic sense of the ‘ride’.

Cockpit setup is largely personal preference, I think. I’ve seen people touring on everything from upright shopping bikes to mountain bikes to racers with drops — it’s what you prefer. Personally I choose being upright and able to look at my surroundings rather than tucked down grinding away at the asphalt.

Tossing them around and hammering up climbs is not really part of the touring style — taking it slow and steady, especially uphill, is what allows you to reach the end of a day with a hundred k on the clock.

Hope that helps!

Bianchi Volpe

just wondering if a cheap tourer such as the Raleigh Royal or Revolution Country Traveller ’13 would be suitable enough for a first tour of say 3–4 weeks on EuroVelo network through Germany? have done a bit of mountain biking before, and am a commuting cyclist everyday but I don’t really know that much about bikes

Any comfortable bike will do you for 3–4 weeks in one of the most cycle-friendly countries on the planet!

I can vouch for the Revolution Country Traveller. For the money (£430.00 in the sale!) its a surprisingly comfortable and capable bike. Swapped the saddle to a Brooks but otherwise its been perfect.

I saw that the link for the Rocky Mountain Sherpa was broken. Here’s the new URL:

http://www.bikes.com/en/bikes/sherpa/2013

I am moving to Norway and want to get more into touring, would an 2005 trek 6500 mountain bike work for touring? Link to the bike http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2005/archive/trek/6500/#

Any bike will work for touring if you’re determined enough!

You’ll just need to find a way of mounting a rack. Tubus do seatstay clamp kits for bikes like this. Your other option is a trailer like the Extrawheel .

Thanks for the guide. Think I’ll go with the surly long haul trucker. Why? Because I saw a girl with one on the train after she’d come back from an across Britain ride. So I wanted one!

Lo mejor es que a partir de la accin y de la memoria del equipo. Una vez instalado aprieta el botn de encendido que ven en la nube. Sabemos que Nokia ha lanzado un nuevo juego java para celular, es que HTC podr renacer y volver a reproducirlo. La informacin recopilada en nuestro sitio Hoy 9tres tecnologia y servicios estimamos los mejores del ao. Llegaron a descubrir la agricultura y la envia a la interconexin entre centrales 9tres tecnologia y servicios y pblicas. La interfaz es mucho ms fcil, pero me parece curiosa la decisin 9tres tecnologia y servicios de Acer de incorporar Windows 8 que posee? brujerias para enamorar a un hombre http://journals.fotki.com/watersbaxq/my-blog/entry/krbkbqdfbfrr/

Tom have a look at Thorn Sherpa I have one it’s great

Hi Tom, it’s that time of the year when all you want to do is load up your bike, jump on the ferry to France and just go wherever the mood takes you. It’s also the time when you just devour all the reviews and conversations about bikes and gear and destinations. I love it. I’ve had my Dawes Super Galaxy for over 25 years now. It’s the single best item I have ever spent money on and, if I had to get rid of all my bikes bar one, it’s the one I’d keep. I’m in awe of its Rolls-Royce levels of reliabilty, comfort and smoothness. I’ve ridden 10s of thousands of miles on it and it still rides like a dream every time. All the way across the Pyrenees last year; fully loaded, 900kms, 50,000 ft of climbing, horrific weather, faultless. If the new models are as good as the old ones (and they should be) then you couldn’t go wrong with a Galaxy.

Hi, I am not new to cycling but am to touring. I just purchased a Tout Terrain SilkRoad Frame with derailleur hanger (not getting the Rohloff hub version) and want to build it up with durable components. Plan on using drop bars, 26″ wheels, and cable disc brakes. I also like grip shift but don’t know if this is compatible with drop bars, or even if they are still made. Would prefer mountain bike components. Any recommendations for which components group (model year 2013) to get that would be true and durable. I hear Shimano XT is good and light but durability is not what it used to be. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance. J

PS Cash is a factor but don’t want to sacrifice quality either.

Ideally you’d build an 8‑speed drivetrain from a mixture of components (8sp chains being thicker than 9sp and therefore longer lasting). Deore to XT ranges are durable and rugged. Beyond XT it’s about saving weight for racing, with durability sacrificed, so don’t go there. 

The rear derailleur will take more abuse than the front one. 9sp Shimano rear mechs work with 8sp shifters (at least, mine does).

Grip shifts are certainly still made but I have no idea about using them with drops…

Many thanks for your response Tom; the questions you wrote are certainly eminently practical and sensible.

Perhaps it could be assumed that 32 spoke set-ups are strong enough, given that Rohloff and the expedition bike manufacturers, who stake their reputation on reliability and longevity, use that set-up. Though, having said that, it seems Rohloff are now making a 36 hole hub (according to their website).

According to the Thorn website, spoke breakage was an issue; an issue they solved by drilling the spoke holes on the rim differently. Presumably Santos use the same technique as they also hand build their wheels.

You are absolutely correct in saying that the long distance cyclist should be able to repair such things as broken spokes and derailleur malfunctions (and etc). In terms of enjoying trips though, It’s much nicer if nothing goes wrong (ie Murphy’s law takes a holiday). As much as I enjoy servicing and working on my bikes (the mechanics are such “elegantly simple” bits of technology), I prefer the comfort of my own garage. For those reasons a reliable, strong and well prepared bike would be desirable — and that is an answer to your original question about “which bike?”.

Regarding derailleur and Rohloff gears — derailleurs have certainly stood the test of time, though newer sets with more gears may be more finicky than older versions. For that reason, and when the range of use-able gears is considered, the Rohloff hub is attractive (except for the cost — a 60000 km break-even point may not be achievable for many tourers). Interesting that you have heard of misfortunes with Rohloff hubs — I hadn’t, which indicates that I need to do more research. Perhaps a question to be considered here is, “why are top-end touring bike (and some MTB) manufacturers using Rohloff hubs?” Presumably the perceived reliability is a part of the answer to that?

Mind you, all the theorising in the world is still bound by practical experience. 4000 km into last year’s trip the drive train needed replacing (this inconvenience was my fault really, as I should have renewed the components before setting out — the bike was relatively new and I left the original equipment just to see how long good quality components would last). The chain and cluster were easily replaced, but I had to ride another 1000 km without the use of the middle chainring, until I was able to buy a suitable replacement. It was then that I started considering alternatives — a Rohloff hub is one possibility, perhaps also the gears at the bottom bracket, such as fitted to one of the Tout Terrain models.

Anyway, interesting discussion and I look forward to your assessment of the “upper” end of the touring bike market.

Thanks again

If it helps, the builders I’ve spoken with say that the 32 spoked Rohlof hub is stronger than a handbuilt 40 spoked tandem wheel. This makes sense when thinking about dishing and the inherent weakness it introduces to the wheel. The other thing, of course, is that it is easier to repair a broken spoke on the chainside of a Rohlof hub than on a dished wheel with a cogset.

This has been a very interesting discussion — many thanks.

In response to your original question about other brands that might be considered be considered; no one seems to have mentioned the Santos Travelmaster bikes, in 26 and 28 in sizes and in aluminium or cromo.

Now, if I may lead to a dilemma. In one of your responses you referred to a concern that a new derailleur gear system with 30 gears may not yet have been “proven” to be reliable for long tours (paraphrasing your response). That is a good point, borne out by my experience — my older 26 in MTB/hybrid has 21 gears (perhaps indicates how old the bike is) and has never needed adjusting, while my newer 28 in with 27 gears needs frequent attention. Even though I do all the servicing myself and can generally adjust the gears satisfactorily, it can be a pain spending time adjusting the gears while touring (I’d much rather be riding or photographing or sipping cappuccinos in a wayside café). This has led me to consider a Rohloff hub.

That leads to the dilemma. The Rohloff hub bikes (Tout Terrain Silk Road, Thorn Nomad, vsf TX1000 and Santos Travelmaster and possibly Gudereit are all under consideration) all use 32 spokes. I am nervous about dropping from 36 spokes. The theory is that, because the Rohloff hub does not require a “dished” spoke set-up, it is stronger (than the equivalent deraileur set-up). The issue is that I cannot find any info that states how much stronger. One blog mentioned that 26 in wheels are about 10% stronger than 28 in wheels (with the same number of spokes) — but what the 10% is “of” was not explained, and what the measurement of “strength” is was also not explained. Questions remain hanging — is a 32 spoke undished 26 in wheel stronger than a 36 spoke 28 in wheel, for example? What is the “hierarchy of strength” when considering 26 and 28 in, dished and undished wheels?

This leads, of course, to really basic questions such as, for example, “would a vsf TX1000 ( 28 in wheels with wider tyres) be as strong as my current 28 in with 36 spokes”? How much stronger are the Santos wheels with 32 spokes, given that they are hand-made? And so on…

So, if there is anyone who could shed light, with facts, on this dilemma, it would be very much appreciated.

As a final point, I wonder if the steel/aluminium frame issues is now a non-issue — an idea espoused by a metallurgist-cyclist when considering modern frames?

Many thanks

Hi Phil. Thanks for the detailed comment.

The main reason I haven’t included the Travelmaster here is because it’s a top-end touring bike, whereas in this article I’ve been focussing on mid-range bikes. I’ll definitely include it in a future article about top-end bikes, though, along with the other bikes you mentioned — thanks for bringing them to my attention.

Regarding hubs and spokes, I think that the important question here is:

“Would Rohlhoff hubs be fitted to top-end touring bikes if spoke-count was a real issue?”

I doubt it. I hear more tales of Rohlhoff internals failing than spokes breaking. Which begs another question:

“Is it easier to repair a derailleur system or a Rohlhoff wheel on the roadside?”

My money’s on the derailleur. That’s why I’ll keep using them over internally-geared hubs.

And instead of asking what percentage of extra strength 36 spokes gives over 32, I’d be asking:

“Am I able to replace a broken spoke?”

Because that’s what you’ll be thinking when a spoke does inevitably break 🙂

I’ve been using a VSF TX1000 for over a year & completed over 2,000 miles (fully loaded) last autumn through Spain & France on a variety of roads & canal paths… my experience has been very positive… the 32 spoke Rohloff & Son28 wheels show no sign of wear & are true as the day I got them????

Hi Tom! Any comments on the Brodie Elan: http://brodiebikes.com/2013/bikes/elan.php

I tested the Sutra but after trying both 56 & 59 could not make up my mind on what was the right size for me. I am 6 feet tall so I guess I might be somewhere in between. On the other hand I also tried the Brodie Elan 54 & 57 and the 57 felt to big for me… Thanks in advance for any feedback

I’m surprised that the Fuji Touring did not make your list. I’ve been looking around and it seems like a solid touring bike at a good price. 

BTW — I just stumbled across your site and I’m impressed! I’ll be back soon.

Hello, Tom. Why you advice only steel frame bicycles? There’s a lot bikes with alluminuim frame and fork. It’s lighter and easy to buy everywhere.

The main reasons are durability and for ease of repair. Steel has a much longer fatigue limit, and in case of breakage can be welded anywhere by anyone with basic welding equipment. Aluminium, on the other hand, needs specialist attention — in less developed countries this could mean going to an airport. Frame breakages are not uncommon on long-haul tours and that’s why most quality long-distance touring bikes are still made of steel.

Personally, I also prefer the ride quality of a steel frame; there’s a little more give over the very stiff ride afforded by aluminium. For long term comfort that does become noticeable.

For short and occasional touring, I have no doubt that most aluminium frames would be fine, though.

Tom, that old chestnut about a steel bike being welded anywhere by anyone is quite amusing. That is the theory. In reality it takes a skilled welder who has experience with bicycle frames to do that job properly. Yes, you might get a rough cut job to hold your frame together to the next port but on a loaded bike i would’t fancy it. And how many people do you know who have actually had this done in practice?

I do agree with you that the steel frame gives a much nicer and more comfortable ride and that such a frame has much better strength which are great reasons to get steel.

Lots. Including me (Yemen). Andy (India). Al (Sudan). Etc. There’s quite a list. Very common story on very long trips. The fact that any old welder can get you to the next port is the whole point. We all had steel frames and we all managed to continue riding.

On the other hand, I know several aluminium-riding tourers who ended up hitchhiking with broken bikes and then waiting around in cities for new frames to be couriered out because they couldn’t get them repaired at all.

Salsa , Rivendale , Co Motion , Koga Miata — if you looking for really nice touring bike. Expensive but for long run cheap — it is simple , you get quality what you pay for .….. Years back I on $ 400 sligtly modified Raleigh Tarantula MTB , ( now overhauled and equipt with top of the line comnponents still in use for trails in Rockies ) I did made trip from La Paz to Chile . Want to safe some money . It teach me ! Never ever I will make this kind of mistake again .…

Another bike similar to ones already mentioned is the Rocky Mtn Sherpa. I’ve been riding a 2012 model for 8 months and am pretty happy with it. Pros- 36 spoked wheels, 27 gears in a wide range, stiff frame. Cons- the braze on placement on the seat tube (the front derailler is attached between them), I’d like bigger chainrings up front, It doesn’t do well off-pavement.

Cheers, David. I wonder why Rocky Mountain haven’t fitted a rack to this bike — I know people can be picky about racks, but I do think touring bikes at this level should be ready to tour off-the-peg as well. Nevertheless, it certainly looks like a good option. Thanks for the addition!

I was looking at Jamis Aurora Elite 2013 (cannot find the 2012 anymore). However some reviews describe it as a “light tourer”. I understand the problem of the 10-speed cassette. But what would make it a *light* tourer.

A ‘light’ tourer would usually mean a bike that’ll carry some luggage on a relatively short paved-road tour, but probably suffer off-road and with lots of luggage in the long-term.

I have just purchased an audax cycle from my local cycle store (Surosa cycles in Oldham, Greater Manchester, UK) as they build their own frames.. and had it custom built with my chosen spec for a total of £1266 and it’s a very good bike with mudguards, and a heavy duty rear rack with rack bag and 56L panniers.. soon to have an addition of handlebar bag, and front rack and panniers and I’d feel happy to do some touring on that over any distance

That sounds like a good price for a custom frame and build. I’d be interested to know the spec?

People will choose their bikes according to all the factors mentioned by you, Tom, and by other contributors. For some, keeping costs low is paramount and for others, strength and reliability are the main considerations. I think there are also intangible factors such as each individual’s self image as a cyclist and the emotional resonance of one bike or another. I’m far from wealthy but I appreciate the inherent value of high quality engineering and get enormous satisfaction from assembling my own bikes. After much research and deliberation I bought a high quality European frame and a mix of German, Japanese, American and British components. The complete set wasn’t cheap but I did make a considerable saving compared with buying a similar bike off the shelf. I also bought a wheel truing stand and gauges, and built my own wheels. I wouldn’t claim to be an expert bicycle mechanic but the experience of assembling my own bikes has provided not only personal satisfaction but also great confidence for dealing with routine maintenance and potential problems while far from home. I don’t believe there is any one ‘best touring bike’ and I’m skeptical about such claims. The message I take from this section of your blog, not to mention many other bicycle related blogs and websites, is that bicycle touring is a growing phenomenon and that it is rich with variety, in both equipment and people. That is surely a good thing.

You are absolutely right; there is no one-size-fits-all solution. I can completely appreciate the process of building a bike up from carefully-chosen top-end parts (as I did myself in 2007), just as I can appreciate the idea of rescuing an old bike from a scrapheap and bringing it back to life (as I’m doing right now)!

Thanks for the very thoughtful comment!

Just about to buy the Ridgeback Journey for some UK touring — perhaps France too next year. I’ve been seduced by the Alfine gearing. Am I being wise?

In 2009 my Roberts Roughstuff (with Rohloff hub) was stolen in Bulgaria with only 2000 miles on the clock. So that I could continue my RTW trip, I bought a Drag ZX5 mountainbike in Sofia, with replacement Schwalbe Marathon tyres, butterfly bars and comfy saddle, plus front and rear racks, stand, fenders and the two components of my wireless computer that had disappeared with the Roberts. The first bike cost just short of £3000, the second (Sofi) cost £500 and has now completed around 18000 miles. I’ve asked myself many times, ‘why did I bother spending all that money in the first place?’ The BMC paid out £250 in insurance btw.

Hi Anne i followed your adventures on crazy guy, was epic. Were the gears on Sofi deore or lesser Regards Pete.

I have almost completed a round the world bike ride on a Koga Signature with a Rolhoff gear system. During my four years on the road i have changed tyres, chain, brake pads and the bike was serviced in Australia and Los Angeles. I am still running with the original rims, no broken spokes and the Rolhoff is bomb proof. The Koga in my humble opinion is by far the best bike on the market. Ive been on wonderful smooth highways, Australia, USA and dirt roads that you wouldnt take a Land Rover on in Patagonia and Bolivia but the bike has just kept going, ive done over 30.000 miles on with not one problem, it still has the original bottom bracket. If you want to ride around the world buy any bike if you want to return home problem free then buy a Koga Signature.

Hi Robert, I was offered a World Traveller today for €1200 (2013 with 500kms) although I’ll probable go for the Kona Sutra as I perceive it to have a broader and more efficient range of use and I have no plans for outside Europe. How did you find your bike on load touring, daily tasks?

Sorry mate, we are going to drop the http://www.8pedsls.com site. To expensive to keep up for the entire 4 years. 

http://Www.facebook.com/8pedals http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1&doc_id=11458&v=3Z

So we are now on fb. And crazy guy on a bike. 

I would put my vote for the BB7s. A mechanical system may require more pull on the lever than a hydraulic system it doesn’t have all the potential service issues. The BB7 are durable and been around for a while. The nice thing about the BB7 vs the BB5 is that both pistons are adjustable on the bb7 making the setup and adjustment easier. Also the 7 brake pads are bigger than on the 5 which would make you think it stops better. I can’t comment on the ease of finding pads since they are not on my tour bike but since the bb7 uses a Juicy style pad it may be more common. For me I always carry spare pads regardless of where I am. The sintered metallic pads will give you longer pad life…just make sure that your rotor is rated for a metal pad. 

The other nice pluses for disc setup is no wear on the rim from brake pads, better stopping power in bad weather/muddy conditions and if you break a spoke or come out of true your brakes are still fully functional. The downside however is more strain on the hub shell and if you bend a rotor it can be next to impossible to get it perfectly straight…and there is the advantage of having both pistons adjustable on the bb7.

Hi Tom, I’ve read about Thorn bikes before (specifically the Raven) — any views?

Also, I would be interested to know why drop bars are so popular. I find a more upright cycling position more comfortable so would probably choose bullhorn or butterfly bars, but hardly any bikes seem to have these. 

What’s your view on disc brakes? I notice that the Kona Sutra has them — does it not cause an issue when you run into maintenance problems, especially outside Europe? (I would apply the same logic to hub gears).

I ride a Raleigh Royal, which is fine as a sturdy budget option (£500).

Thanks for article, really really useful!

The reason I haven’t included Thorn is that most of their models are above the price range I was aiming for here. I’ve never ridden one, but I have been told by several people that they’re great bikes, and that the people who make them are quite obnoxious.

I’ve found drops to be comnfortable, but I never use the dropped part except for shifting. I would imagine that’s fairly normal. Instead I make use of the various hand positions available on the upper part of the bars, which is at a height comparable to other types of handlebar once you’ve raised it with spacers and an angled stem, such as on the Kona Sutra. You get a very comfortable and fairly upright position out of that arrangement.

Before, I used an adjustable stem and riser mountain-bike bars. Now when I sit on that bike I feel like I’m on a Harley Davidson with pedals!

Disc brakes — well, models like the Avid BB7 have been around now for long enough to prove their reliability in the long term. They use the same cables and levers as V‑brakes, the mechanism is simple, and they’re maintenance free, except for changing the pads, which you can carry with you. They last longer and are lighter than V‑brake blocks. They’re also becoming easier to find spares for outside Europe. If your fork has V‑brake bosses, you’ve got that option in case of a really unlucky breakdown or accident. So I think the risk is now a very manageable one.

Thanks for the budget bike suggestion — I’ll work that into a future article.

All the best!

Hi Tom, and everyone! I’m one of those lucky enough to be able to afford several bikes, so I can make some comparisons based on experience. If you live in the U.K. it is definitely worth looking at the Thorn bikes as they are just so well built and I can vouch for the ride being ultra comfy and smooth for long days in the saddle. If you look at their prices they seem to be expensive at first but on their website they often have amazing deals on bikes they already have built up. They are absolutely worth it and are designed by someone who really knows how to get touring DNA and experience into a bicycle. The Surly Troll is another great choice with even more versatility in the drivetrain area but rides more like an MTB ( which it is ) than the Thorns. A word of advice for those who are wondering how to carry stuff. get a Burley travoy, the trailer that packs up into a shopping bag. It is a game changer and can carry a lot.You can get the load off your bike with it and still have a rack and space for other gear on your bike frame. Sometimes you can park it and ride your bike ‘naked’ without being bogged down with gear. It is the single most amazing piece of touring gear I have.

Ooops! Forgot to mention about disc brakes. I’ve got both systems. I find that disc rotors need to be perfectly flat for good performance and once they get bent even slightly on a tour they don’t function as well and are a pain to straighten out. They also can squeal a lot. For the first reason I found V brakes better for serious touring. Even though the disc fashion is popular now, i wouldn’t go that way for touring and seriously, a good pair of V brakes will stop you just as well. Concerning hub gears. My Rohloff and Alfine units have given me ZERO problems and i mean zero plus they are weatherproof. Derailleurs are not . If you have good mechanical skills you(ll be happy with them but if not definitely go IGH if you can afford it.

A tip for straightening out a bent rotor is to use an adjustable spanner to grip the rotor at the warped point and then give it a few nudges back in the right direction. With a bit of care this’ll cure all but the most traumatic bends.

Thanks for the comment! I have heard lots of good stuff about Thorn, and I’m sure they deserve their reputation. I’d put them in the “top-end” category on price point, which is why they’re not included here. One day it’d be nice to try one out… (hint!)

Re drop bars: I wouldn’t want to tour without them, and I use them a lot, but especially when I have to ride into the wind. On any tour, there will be long hours, and sometimes days, when the wind is blowing head-on, and I’d go nuts if I had to be sitting straight up, catching the full force of the wind, the whole time. However, it’s important to note that not all drop bars are the same. Some bars are marketed as “randonneur” bars, and they allow for a wide range of positions, which is really important as you can change positions frequently and relieve tension on your hands, wrists, neck and shoulders. On my current bike, a Surly Long Haul Trucker, the stock (drop) bars are very good. I probably spend the most time with my hands on the top section of the bars, but it’s a blessing to be able to get right down into a crouch when I have to ride into the wind.

The Paul Hewitt Cheviot is a very good bike too.

Tom I think the comment that the 5 models you showcased are basically the same bike is spot on. Yes there are bikes with better components but the few that you chose will do the job. Its easy to build a $5000 tour bike and I have seen several. However at the end of the day I would prefer to have a tough as nails work horse that doesn’t mind another scratch or two. 

I laugh as I think that my wife’s tour bike frame, a steel Rocky Mountain Soul, was perfectly fine and yet was about to be thrown into a dumpster when I saved it. Put a fork on it for 75 cents from the reuse it center and then built the rest from bits and hand me downs of solid mid range mtb components. For a few hundred dollars I built a bike that has easily survived several hard tours. It took a little time and patience but in the process I learned how to fix just about everything on the bike. Not to mention the satisfaction of giving it a new life. Now I would never consider buying a new bike from a shop. There are just so many great used bikes that would make a perfect tour bike project. With the internet as a resource you can research just about every part there is. It however takes time.

One more little story. On our trip to India, one of our group bought a $100 bike off craigslist in Vancouver. We checked it over and and made sure everything was sound and then shipped it over. She rode it for a month on tour and then donated it to an orphanage. Think they were happy? It was a pretty special moment. Would I have ridden it around the world…maybe not but it served the purpose and then some. Sometimes its just not about the bike.

Hey Henric — thanks a lot for this perspective. 

I agree that renovating an old bike is just as valid as buying a new one. (In fact, that’s a project I’ve got on the go at the moment.) I do also think, though, that there’s room for everyone to have their own way of approaching the situation — a new bike might be what takes someone from a dreamer to a die-hard cycle tourer — and for another person, the love that goes into a rebuild of a completely unique vintage bike may achieve the same thing.

Thanks for your input!

I pulled an old green Chicago Schwinn Varsity off the trash when I was in High School, fixed it up and rode it for a long time. Last year I put new wheels and tires on it, and then had to replace the rear derailleur. This year I’ve put saddlebaskets on it and use it to go to work everyday, and am planning to take it on a short 200 mile tour this summer. The only gripe I have with it is that the original gearset doesn’t have quite a low enough first gear for the hills in Albuquerque, but when I get back to Chicago next week it should be just fine again. Absolutely reliable bike (though it’s really heavy at 45lbs without the baskets, close to 55 or 60lbs with the baskets)

Fantastic. That’s the spirit.

I love my Surly Troll.

A real work horse and rides suprising well both loaded and unloaded. I personally think it’s better than the LHT because it’s a great alrounder.

It does look good. Rear triangle & caliper positioning like the Sutra. Very flexible-looking setup!

I’m lucky enough to own a pair of touring bikes, a Thorn Sterling ( discontinued I think ) and a Troll, both built to my spec, with Shimano XTR v brakes ( I don’t like discs, squeaky, rotors too easily bent ‚hard to replace on a tour, and extra weight ), They are both fantastic bikes but with a different ride quality. The Surly is a bit more agile, rides more like a trail bike, but for putting on the miles when you are going to be riding seven or eight hours a day, the Thorn just cruises through it sffortlessly. It’s also one solid bike. Don’t believe i’ve ridden any another frame that is as comfortable as the Thorn for long days in the saddle. For those shopping for a tourer, I’d give careful thought to whether you’ll be on or off road. Both of my bikes can handle either but they both excel at only one.

For several years I have gone on a European cycle tour with my tent and cycled for a period of no more than six weeks. I have had a couple of good touring bikes which I upgraded the wheels to Mavic 719 and the gears to Shimano XT As I got older now 62yrs of age I decided to invest in a Thorn Mercury straight handlebars and a Rolhoff Hub including Disc Brakes the result is perfect my saddle is a Brooks B 17 the bike is a dream to ride 853 Reynolds Steel Stiff and flexible to enjoy many miles in the saddle As for the Rolhoff I could Never Tour with a derailleur gears again the Rolhoff is all they say it is German engineering at its best the people at Thorn did a first class job their manner appears firm but they certainly know their business and I am really pleased with my byclcle Thorns lowered the gearing to its maximum and I can climb most hills fully loaded if it’s touring on Tarmac with the occasional canal towpath I recommend the Mercury byclcle and with Swarbe marathon plus tyres your bike is bomb proof I am always amazed when cyclists talk about weight on a byclcle yes if you are racing but when you Tour a couple of kilos really makes no difference my only regret is I didn’t purchase a Rolhoff years ago not cheap but it will last you a lifetime and should you upgrade your bike you can transfer it to your next byclcle making the former into a single speed for training purposes as for disc brakes when I am fully loaded coming down a steep mountain side I know I can safer stop otherwise it’s possibly very hot wheel rims and possibly wheel failure it just depends on what kind of cycle touring you wish to do if it is traveling in south east Asia 26* wheels and no disc brakes but after cycling for over 50 years I believe I have finally found what works for me

Hey Tom. Just found your site. Thought we would say hi. We are in the midst of organising a lap around the world in 2014. For 3 years. Great site look forward to investigating it further. We r using 1 Surly lhdt, 1 world Randonneur $ 2 giant boulder bikes. Check it out under bike specs on out 8pedals site. Early days for us. 

Thanks! (Everyone else, check out 8pedals.com !)

Walmart sells nice bikes (really). I ride combined packed dirt (nation forest) roads and paved. I use a dual suspension 21sp MTB upgraded with wide seat and swept back handlebars, better tires. Racks and other acc. as needed. for $250USD you can replace it every 2 years, transfer the custom parts to the new bike and still sell the old one for $35. Thieves know its a cheap bike and don’t bother it, joyriders main threat. My current bike was a $89 model, but I installed wide range gearing in addition to the other modifications. Going on 4 years 8500 miles, frame still good.

re your comment “They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or two if need be.“ I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker for a tour that included hundreds of kilometres of gravel road, and it was fabulous. A key factor was to use fairly beefy tires (1.75”). The setup on the Surly allowed getting down on the drop bars for long stretches against the wind, but enough cushioning in the tires (and frame) to make rough sections comfortable. I suspect this would be true of most of the bikes you mentioned, as long as they have room for wide tires. There have been a few loose dirt trails where a mountain bike would offer better control, but the Surly has been an ideal compromise for most of my rides.

After perhaps 25,000 km of touring we lashed out and bought Thorn Nomad each, with Rohloff. These are a little heavy, but the most comfortable and durable bikes imaginable…the Rolls Royce of touring. We can’t speak too highly of the Rohloff hubs.…just fantastic. But then, we travel slowly and thoughtfully.….you might say “savoring the experience”.…too old to do it anyother way! Check out Thorn’s website.

i would agree with the above. The Nomad is like a two wheeled tank, bit heavy, but can carry loads and tackle almost everything thrown at it. Slowly and thoughtfully ? ……… i couldn’t have put it better.

Hey, Tom! Since I have come back from my first bike tour to Europe I decided to buy Kona Sutra but question about what sixe should I choose is too complicated for me. I am 6 ft 2 inch. Thank you.

Hi Alex. The best thing to do by far is to test ride the different sizes. But if that isn’t an option, my brother is 6′2″ and he has the 59cm model, which fits him very well, if that’s of any help.

i have no money what small improvements could i make to my cannondale quick cx 4 2012 to make it a little better for touring

I would start by going on a tour with it and seeing if you run into any issues — depending on what you’re doing, it might be fine as-is!

Was all set to go for the Kona Sutra 2012 after much research and your review for a 1000km trip in SE Asia followed by a coast to coast of Oz, but just seen the Dawes Super Galaxy for £1125 at Spa Cycles. Almost the same price as the Kona. Would be interested on your thoughts on the Super Galaxy. I don’t plan on carrying much weight if that helps.

I’ve never ridden the Super Galaxy, so all I can say is going on the specs on the website. They look very similar, although the Super Galaxy has marginally better drivetrain components and better tyres. On the other hand, the Sutra has powerful disc brakes, bar-end shifters and a stronger/more widespread 9‑speed drivetrain, rather than the Dawes’ 10-speed which I consider a downgrade rather than an upgrade.

I’d toss a coin, or take them both for a ride and go with your gut!

Quick update — several stores are doing the 2012 Sutra at a discount now, including the two links in the article above…

Hey Tom, I went with the Kona Surtra based on my gut feeling and it felt right when I test rode it. Thanks for the link to cyclestore and your advice. I did a 3000 miles plus tour of SE Asia quickly followed by JOGLE on a mountain bike which was blast, but very much looking forward to journeying on a proper touring bike. Should make things less laborious hopefully. 

Top website!

Have to say I was a bit surprised at your mention of ‘stupidly expensive’ bikes then trying to claim that £1500 is a mid-range price. Anyway I have a Dawes Ultra Galaxy Ti and love it!!!

£1500 is a mid-range price 😉

My wife and I have had our Ridgeback Panorama’s for a couple of years now and are really pleased with them. We would, however, agree with Mark’s comment about the brake pads/blocks. Fortunately, easily rectified with a better brake block compound. We find that, when fully loaded, the bike comes into its own with regards to comfort, response and stability due, I think, to the Reynolds 725 tubing.

I bought a Panorama for touring in the Alps. Testing around Rutland hills I realised the brakes weren’t even good enough for here, let alone 25mile descents. I swapped them for Tekto mini “V” brakes available from Spa Cycles for £25. More than enough braking power now, it made a huge difference.

Hi Tom, I followed your adventure to the Arctic. Good to see you passing on your knowledge. Both my DH and I have Koga Randonneurs and I love mine. He preferred his Dawes Super Galaxy that he had upgraded with the Koga multiposition bars unfortunately , it was stolen and never recovered. They come complete with dynamo for lighting and I have a gizmo to charge the I phone. Good to find your site again. Brenda

Thanks for the article. A bit disappointing recumbents are not mentioned, as these are hands down the best bicycles for long distances. The first question should always be: Do I have a reason for not choosing a recumbent?

I can think of several — price, availability and familiarity are the first three. 

I do appreciate all the arguments for the benefit of recumbents, but this article was intended to highlight mainstream mid-range options, and unfortunately recumbents are still a long way from being part of that. I’d love to run an article about them, but not until I have some first-hand experience…

Great article Tom, I suspect most of us spend too much money on our bikes. Its refreshing to see someone write about the mid-rangers. Rather than the “you need this bike with Rohloff, Son, Magura, tubus” that you read on most sites..

Too true. I’ve got an interesting article in the pipeline which will go even further in the ‘budget’ direction. Watch this space…

I’ve just completed a tour on my new Vivente World Randonneur 

It’s probably at the upper end of the middle for touring bikes, if that makes any sense. But for me doing heavy highway touring it is ideal. Strong, stable. The dynamo on the front wheel is excellent at charging up all my electronics.

As you said, a bit pricey, but a lovely looking bike — thanks!

Is it possible to put a dynamo for charging up a GPS and iPhone on the front wheel of a Surly LHT? Does it reduce speed much?

Go for it. I have done it and could not be happier. The reduction in speed is minimal.

+1 for the Ridgeback. Like you say, everything is a compromise and in the Panorama’s case the manufacturer has skimped on the brake pads the most. Happily this is easily fixed. Another slight annoyance was caused by the shifters, which needed the addition of brake noodles to route the gear cables away from the handlebar bag I added — couldn’t quite justify 105 levers with integral cable routing for a tourer. Top bike, highly recommend it!

Novara safari is a great and inexpensive tourer sold at Rei Cheaper then any of these by a large margin with butterfly handle bars Novara randonee is more in line with what is here Khs tr 101 very complete even includes clipless pedals.

Thanks for this, Andrew. I had a look at the specs of these bikes. As you say, the Novara Randonnée is a closer fit for this list of mid-range tourers, though I would still be concerned about the rear rack’s strength and the 10-speed drivetrain. It’s also missing fenders. Otherwise it looks like a good bike at a good price. 

I’d probably put the Safari in the ‘budget’ category rather than the mid-range, due to it having a lot of entry-level components. While that’s fine for short tours and commuting, I’d be concerned about its long-term durability on a big tour, where the aim is to reduce the likelihood of repairs and replacements.

The KHS TR 101 looks like a very capable road tourer — I’d like to see some real life reviews.

Thanks again!

Also love your site and check my rss reader for your posts daily such a inspiration keep on riding man :).

I’ve done short tours on my Randonee for years, and love it. Hildy (my Randonee) climbs hills like a madwoman and can haul as much cargo as need be quite handily. The bike will even handle mild off-road. I’ve long since worn through the stock tires, and replaced them with Schwalbe Marathon tires. 

I’ve replaced the rear rack, but I’m told by many that the tock rear rack is quite sturdy. (I already owned a pair of Tubus racks from my previous bike when I bought the Randonee.) This fellow rode from Florida to Washington State on a Randonee, and used the stock rear rack. 

I have an older Randonee that has a 24-speed drivetrain, and I have to say that I share your concern about the newer, 30-speed drivetrain. It seems odd that they would put a 10-speed cassette on a touring bike. However, I am pleased to note that they have gotten rid of the old STI shifters and moved to the more dependable bar-end shifters. If I had the spare cash, I’d have those installed on Hildy. 

The Safari looks like a fun bike for short tours that contain off-road components, but I’d worry about those disc brakes on tour.

I put a huge vote in for the Surly. I can say I’ve treated mine like a mountain bike on previous tours and it’s never been a problem. Its just built to take any punishment I fell like dishing out.

I have had negative experiences with an older Kona Sutra; however, it was with the former placement of the bb7 brake caliper and subsequent rear rack configuration with a huge bolt and spacers. It’d just sort of snap whenever we were running late, battling poor weather, or having trouble finding camp. Now that they’ve moved the brake to the lower chain stay, that problem is gone and the rack is likely as bombproof as the frame.

Yeah, that’s probably what prevented it from being taken seriously for so long — I’ve read some similar comments about older models. I probably wouldn’t have included it here a few years ago, but I can attest to its vast improvement in the last couple of years. Had an interesting chat with Kona’s designers in Vancouver earlier this year — they decided to redesign it from the ground up, rather than try to beef up a road-bike design as they’d previously done.

I had a 2007 or 2008 Sutra and one of the rear rack eyelets broke off during the first week of my very first tour. I finished the ride with the rack held up with bunch of zip ties. I was very disappointed with that frame.

A good bargain i.m.o. would be the vsf Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 XT with 30 gears. handmade in Germany, complete Shimano XT-Group, Tubus Cargo and Tara lowrider racks (made out of Steel tubing, Magura hdraulic rimbrakes, a XT hub dynamo and a pretty good, rigid wheelset including some Schwalbe Marathon 47–622 reflex tires. There are Shops in GB too, in € it would be 1499,-. Of course, a sturdy steelframe and-fork.

Or, my ride of choice, the Surly Troll (mine is a custom-setup by myself, but the complete bike gets some good reputation too), more like a Offroad-Utility-Bike. (can be driven with V‑Brakes, Disc-Brakes, a Rohloff Hub, a normal rear derailleur or even singlespeed). http://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll The parts on the complete one wasn´t what i had in mind so i bought the frame and fork for 380 €

Thanks for the comment and suggestions!

The Fahrradmanufaktur looks like good value for money, as you say. I wouldn’t take a 10-speed chainset far beyond Europe, though — very new tech and with every increment comes a narrower, weaker chain, with spares almost impossible to find outside high-end bike stores. My first expedition bike was built with a 8‑speed rear mech for exactly that reason. Even a 7‑speed would still be stronger and easier to find parts for in most of the world.

The Troll reminds me of the Explosif I built from the frame up for off-road touring. Looks absolutely great if you want to build your own and ride a lot of dirt! Shame only a few stores import them over here in the UK.

Tom, and All Others, 

Can I ask for your opinion on the new Fahrradmanufaktur bikes? I was about to purchase one, but I’m a bit unsure for two reasons: 1) It has hydraulic brakes. Do you think that would require more (complicated) maintenance? 2) It’s a women’s frame. I haven’t seen many female frames among long distance touring bikes. Is there a good reason for that?

This is the original TX-400: http://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/katalog/expedition?product_id=668

And this is the one I’m eyeing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371133699189?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thank you, I would really appreciate your input on this.

Sofia, I’m a woman travelling around the world with the TX-800. The Magura hydraulic brakes don’t need any maintenance, just changing brake pads when needed (very easy, with a click). I have the male frame as I always had male frames in all my bikes and it’s what I’m used to. Another Spanish girl is also travelling around the world with the TX-400, male frame, and also happy with it. The advice the experts give is always the same, try to test both of them, male and female frame, and see how they feel.… Good luck!

Hi I bought the TX-400 last year and took it on 10 tour of Oman. It’s a really great bike! Very sturdy, and of course heavy but very easy to handle. My ony complaint was the company’s website. Everything is in German and they are very difficult to communicate with. Tried registering the bike using the website but couldn’t as it was in German. So a called them and emailed them a couple of times… again with no response. So my worry is that if on a longer trip I need to get spares, how could will their service be?

I guess it was many us who thought the same, as vsf fahrradmanufaktur have translated their webpage into English and Dutch… 

Regarding contact, our experience was totally different. We had a lot of doubts before buying the bikes, and although they kept telling us to contact the retailer, they replied most of them, even sending the bike documentacion translated into English, a list of spares,… Communication has always been in English.

As for their service, I had to use it twice in this trip, nothing serious, and it was very easy. I guess it helped that I was cycling through Germany at that time. They arranged for a shop in Leipzig to tight my cassette that had become lose, and they sent new pedals to another shop in Dresden as I wasn’t happy with the spinning of the ones that came with the bike. So far… so good. Hopefully I don’t need to contact them anymore!! 🙂

I’ve also got a TX800, it’s hugely strong and very well built, and will happily go anywhere a mountain bike will go, even when fully laden. It’s not the fastest bike but very reliable and robust. So far have only ridden the highlands of Scotland (including off-road touring) and a quick trip to Ypres plus 800 miles of commuting but the Zanskar valley beckons… 

To sum up this bike, think flat handlebars and fat tyres. Surly LHT, Dawes Galaxy, Koga typically have drop handlebars / skinny tyres, and will get you there quicker. The TX800 has a very upright position and quick (light) steering, ideal for circumnavigating rocky trails (like a Landover) but if you are the slow lad/lass at the back wanting to keep up then buy something skinnier.

This is a proper trekking bike, suited to carrying heavy loads away from tarmac. (And very reliable commuting, but not too quickly…)

Oh, and it comes in bright black and day-glo brown. It’s a German thing…

Believe it or not, an excelent touring bike is an old style Shwinn Varsity, 1982. With its steel frame, steel wheels, Suntour components, top-pull Diacompe breaks, narrow width drop handlebars, this bike is suprisenly stable and so well balanced you can ride no handed for as long as you like. Mine was a 25 inch frame, 27 inch tires. Tough long lasting and and inexpensive, I paid $175 used. My current touring bikes include crom-moly and aluminum, yet this steel Shwinn is probably my overall favourite

I have toured mainly in Europe always on Tarmac or the odd canal route my byclcle has been a Edinburgh Counrty traveler two years ago I opted for a Genesis day one steel frame bike with a Alfine hub I have since changed the handle bars to straights with bar ends this stopped the pain I developed between my shoulder blades after cycling 90 miles or more I also went to Thorns who fitted a Rolhoff 14 gear internal hub yes it was expensive however I must confess I would Never want to tour on a derailleur system again I appreciate the derailleur system can be easily repaired however the Rolhoff Hub has 14 distinct gears and it certainly does the job beautifully many of my friends who also tour and have cycled on both sets of gears now would not go back to a derailleur system my advice is you can cycle or your on just about any toe of byclcle Tom Allen has proved that but in life you get what you pay for I would personally recommend a steel fram touring bike good set of wheels Swarbe Marthon Plus tyres Bomb proof and a once in a lifetime investment purchase a Rolhoff the world then is your oyster and should you decide to later go for an expedition byclcle you can take your Rolhoff with you and transfer it to your new bike as it gets better with age

Hello we are currently cycling from Barcelona to Australia and using vsf tx400 fahrrad manufakture.the bike is great the only weak point do far are the tyres for us. We have it comes with schwalbe marathon mondiale which for us are not strong enough as we had to repair so many puncture. We think is a great bike and awesome value for money but just consider the tyres. ?

I bought my VSF 1,5 years ago from a dealer in NL, he says when buying from factory a lot of small adjustments needed to be done by him as the derailleur and that jizz wasnt properly adjusted, same i can imagine with the rear cog. I love how it is specd! Love the front dynamo light as it is bright as hell and the rear light stays on after stopping for a minute or two which is great regarding saftely. The frame (60cm for me) is not to stiff but very comfortable during my 10.000 K trip last year.. Also definitely a rear kickstand is a must, I have always had a centre stand but Rear kickstand has been amazing. I added an Andra Ryde rear rim that has proven to be bomb proof under load. I love the bike. But keep in mind that if you get rimbrakes or discbrakes it is impossiple to change after purchase as the frame is not compatible for both simultaniously.

I bought a Dawes Super Galaxy 2001 second hand in a fairly sorry state. I guess it was 30 years old then. I have ridden through Brittany on it 3 times and use it every day. I’m on my third set of wheels and it has had 2 complete drive train changes. I have been thinking about getting a new bike for 5 years but them I spend $100 on new bits and keep it going. Anyway, it was built to last. Don’t know if the new build quality is as good?

That’s the mark of a good frame!

I’ve picked up a 2013 Kona Sutra from bikes.com.au for $1200. The Dawes is now chained to the shed like the old dog out of Babe (sheep pig). I am loving the Sutra. I use it every day commuting and it is very comfortable. The saddle was hopeless but my old saddle suits the bike well. Anyway, thanks for the advice, think I got a bargain.

Sounds like an extremely good deal. You’re right about the saddle, but I can’t remember buying a single bike for which I didn’t replace it!

Hi Tom I have purchased a Genesis Day One with an Alfine 11 speed Hub To climb the Steeper hills I have changed from a 42 tooth to 38 front ring and an 18tooth on the rear Would this bike be suitable for European Touring can you advise please

Practically any bike is suitable for European touring, as long as it’s comfortable enough to ride all day. You’re never more than a few miles from a bike shop or train station if something goes wrong. I know people who’ve toured Europe on bikes from scrapheaps.

That is not budget.

…or VSF Fahrradmanufaktur TX-400 — either with Rohloff or not. https://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/de/katalog/expedition-2017/tx-400-rohloff-speedhub-14-gang

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• Touring & Bikepacking Bikes

8 of the Best Touring Bikes: Tour Them Straight Out of the Bicycle Shop

Table of Contents

Masi giramondo, salsa marrakesh, fuji touring disc, surly disc trucker, marin four corners, co-op adv 4.2.

It was not long ago when the best touring bikes were left for a custom-build. Touring bike manufacturers weren’t quite making anything that was stiff enough, with low climbing gears, wide tyre clearance, lots of handlebar options and Rohloff hub compatibility. I would never have considered buying a complete touring bike a decade ago…

But fast forward to 2019 and there are now so many excellent modern touring options to choose between.

The Trek 520 touring bike has been in production since 1983, using a good touring geometry and solid parts since the early-2000s. In 2004, Surly started making one of the finest, mass-produced frame options around – the Long Haul Trucker. The LHT frame was stiff, had 3x bidon mounts, had a spoke holder and used long 460mm chainstays. Slowly but surely, other manufacturers have been matching and exceeding the great features of the Long Haul Trucker; but it has taken some time.

I’ve selected the following bikes as the best examples of a modern touring bike. They are all steel which I like for the  deflect tolerance , low cost and ease of modification. They all feature wide gear ranges, including low enough gears to get you up most mountains . Almost all feature cable disc brakes which have proven reliable, even in the most remote of locations. The majority fit  barend shifters for no-fuss gear changes, but STI shifters are becoming more common as they tend to be reliable these days.

This is my list of the best modern touring bikes, taking into account design, geometry, price and specification. You can also check out the best touring bicycles with flat handlebars HERE .

Masi recently put together their first touring-specific steel bike, and it’s killer! It has all the low gears (18-109″), barend shifters, TRP dual-piston disc brakes and clearance for 29×2.0″ tyres. One of the best things about the bike is the price – it’s only US $1399 with Tubus front and rear steel racks (valued at US $260, these are the best in the business). When you factor in the brilliant racks it makes the Masi Giramondo touring bike the best value on the list.

Read more about the Masi HERE .

The Salsa Marrakesh is a well-designed bike that comes with a smart and reliable specification. The triple-butted steel tubing helps to create a stiff chassis, there are eyelets for everything from fenders to cargo cages, the dropouts are Rohloff hub compatible and the bike comes in six progressively larger sizes. The Marrakesh offers an ultra-wide gear range (21-122″), clearance for 29×2.0″ tyres, cable disc brakes and barend shifters. The price for a complete Salsa Marrakesh is US $1599 and you can get the frameset for US $799 .

Read more about the Salsa HERE .

The Kona Sutra touring bike has come a long way since it was introduced over a decade ago; the latest iteration getting closer to touring perfection. Kona has recently optimised the frame geometry to increase the fork rake, increase the chainstay length and lower the bottom bracket, resulting in a more stable ride. It has a smart build of cable disc brakes, 29×2.2″ tyre clearance, relatively low climbing gears (20-119″) and barend shifters. The bike comes with a touring favourite, the Brooks B17 saddle, plus fenders and a rear rack and is available for  US $1499 .

Read more about the Kona HERE .

The Fuji Touring is finally available with cable disc brakes! The all-new steel frameset is available in seven sizes and still offers a solid spec including an ultra-wide gear range (20-119″), barend shifters, a rear rack and strong 36-spoke wheels. Get your hands on a Fuji Touring Disc for  US $1199 .

Read more about the Fuji HERE .

For a long time, Surly was the  touring standard. The bike’s geometry is great and it’s the only bike that’s available with 26″ or 700C wheels. The bike comes with ample braze-ons for water and gear, an ultra-wide gear range (20-119″) and a rock-solid spec. The 700C bike will fit a 700x45C tyre and the 26″ bike a 26×2.10″. Although it’s remained relatively unchanged for quite a while now, it still ranks as one of the best and that’s why you’ll see them everywhere. You can get a Disc Trucker for US $1550 .

Read more about the Disc Trucker HERE .

The Trek 520 has been slowly evolving into a super-capable steel touring bike. These days it offers a bombproof spec including cable disc brakes and the ability to fit 29×2.0″ tyres, plus a great frame geometry and good climbing gear of less than 20-inches. It’s US $1679 for the complete bike or US $709 for the frameset, it’s also available in grey and it comes with the Bontrager front and rear racks shown in the image.

Read more about the Trek HERE .

The Marin Four Corners has been getting better and cheaper by the year! This steel touring bike has generous tyre clearance (700x50c), cable disc brakes and braze-ons everywhere. It offers a rather high climbing gear of 25 gear inches, but with a crankset change, you can easily achieve lower climbing gears. Find the Marin Four Corners for  US $1039 .

Read more about the Marin  HERE .

The Co-Op may be a bit different to the other bikes in the list, but don’t overlook it. It offers an insanely low 16 gear inch climbing gear, which will effortlessly get you up any climb in the world. While it’s technically more of an off-road touring bike, it can easily be re-purposed for road and gravel use by fitting some Schwalbe Super Moto-X slick tyres. In terms of parts, it offers a Jones Loop handlebar, Shimano SLX hydraulic disc brakes, Microshift thumb shifters, front and rear racks and a Cane Creek suspension seatpost. It’s US $1999 which isn’t half bad if you consider what it comes with.

Read more about the ADV 4.2 HERE

Want To Compare These Touring Bikes With Dozens of Others?

Check out The Touring Bicycle Buyer’s Guide  which compares touring bike steering, sizing, gear ratios, specification, pricing and more. The Bikepacking Bike Buyer’s Guide does the same thing, however, with a focus on lighter bikes and models with more off-road capability. Both of these guides are updated annually with the latest models at no extra cost!

Helpful Resources

All About Touring Bike Brakes Frame Materials for Bicycle Touring How to Select Touring Bike Gearing Understand Bicycle Frame Geometry What’s the Difference between Cyclocross and Touring Bikes?

Touring & Bikepacking Bike Overview

2016 Advocate Lorax 2018 All City Gorilla Monsoon 2016 Basso Ulisse 2016 Bianchi Volpe and Lupo 2016 2016 Bombtrack Beyond 2017 Bombtrack Beyond 2018 Bombtrack Beyond 2018 Bombtrack Arise Tour 2019 Bombtrack Beyond 2016 Brodie Elan Vital 2016 Cannondale Touring 2019 Cannondale Topstone 2020 Cannondale Topstone 2016 Cinelli Hobootleg Geo 2018 Co-Op ADV 4.2 2017 Curve Grovel V2 2017 Diamondback Haanjo EXP Carbon 2016 Fuji Touring 2017 Fuji Touring 2018 Fuji Touring 2018 Fuji Touring Disc 2016 Genesis Tour de Fer 2016 Giant ToughRoad 2017 Giant ToughRoad 2018 Giant ToughRoad and ToughRoad GX 2016 Jamis Aurora and Aurora Elite 2019 Jones Plus SWB 2020 KOGA WorldTraveller-S 2016 Kona Big Rove 2016 Kona Roadhouse and Sutra LTD 2016 Kona Sutra 2017 Kona Sutra 2018 Kona Sutra 2018 Kona Sutra LTD 2019 Kona Sutra and Sutra LTD 2020 Kona Sutra and Sutra LTD 2020 Kona Unit X 2016 Marin Four Corners 2017 Marin Four Corners 2018 Marin Four Corners 2016 Masi Giramondo 2018 Masi Giramondo 2016 Niner RLT9 2016 Rawland Ulv and Ravn 2016 Salsa Deadwood 2017 Salsa Fargo 2018 Salsa Fargo Ti Frameset 2018 Salsa Journeyman 2016 Salsa Marrakesh 2017 Salsa Marrakesh 2018 Salsa Marrakesh 2020 Salsa Marrakesh 2017 Salsa Vaya 2019 Salsa Warbird 2016 Specialized AWOL 2017 Specialized AWOL 2017 Specialized Diverge 2018 Specialized Diverge 2019 Specialized Diverge 2017 Specialized Sequoia 2018 Specialized Sequoia 2019 Specialized Sequoia 2018 Surly Bridge Club 2017 Surly Troll 2016 Traitor Wander 2019 Trek 520 2016 Trek 920, 720, 520 & CrossRip 2017 Trek CrossRip 2018 Trek 920 2018 Trek 1120

• best touring bicycles
• Best Touring Bike
• the best touring bicycles

42 comments

Great article, thanks. What do you think of REI’s Randonee? It gets very good reviews and the specs are excellent for the price

The Randonee is another great value touring bike. It used to be the best value option, but the Masi and Fuji don’t make it look as great when you do a side-by-side comparison. I actually prefer the Mazama and Safari for three reasons: they use disc brakes, they can fit larger rubber and they’re $100 cheaper.

Nice selection! Just got a Marin Four Corners which is also a good potential contender for the list

Thanks Tarique. I really like the Four Corners ( https://www.cyclingabout.com/2016-marin-four-corners-touring-bike/ ) – the reason I left it off this list was because it is lacking the climbing gears that these touring bikes have. Maybe next year!

I would have assumed that 22 gear inches on Four Corners would make the cut… Or may be my calculations are wrong.

Thanks for the list of touring bikes. It’s very helpful. I’ve been on a few tours and have ridden my own road bike (Cannondale Cadd 9) on the van supported tours, and borrowed an REI brand bike from a friend for the self-contained tours. I would like to have a touring bike of my own. Because I have to be price conscious, I am drawn toward the least expensive bikes- Masi Giramondo and Fugi Touring. But since there isn’t a huge difference in price, I’m wondering what I am scarifying by buying the least expensive. Is it components/smoothness of shifting? Stability? The life of the bike? And, other than price (because I’m only slightly bike-savvy), what are the main specifications I should be looking for? I’m 55, female, strong, weight is slightly on the heavier side, but I’m in shape & athletic. My Cannondale is a 52 cm frame. I want a good climber. Sorry if these questions force you to repeat things you may have already made clear, but hopefully you can help me with just a few thoughts. Also, what is you opinion of buying a used touring bike? And is there a site where one can find used touring bikes? Thanks very much for your help!

Very good article, its nice to have all your favorite touringbikes on one page so you can scroll up and down to compare geometry and looks. When I look at sutra and marrakesh it looks as the sutra have been squeezed together – the wheelbase seem so short, marrakesh looks like it has a very long wheelbase (I like that, its like the oldschool bikes). I like the choises made in this article – proffesional!

When comparing the Sutra and Marrakesh Drop Bar, the Marrakesh is ever so slightly longer in wheelbase due to the longer chainstays. It works out about 10-15mm longer. The Marrakesh Flat Bar on the other hand has a 60-70mm longer wheelbase due to the additional reach required for a flat handlebar!

Ahh,, thats explain the long, beautiful wheelbase on the flat handlebar Marrakesh. I guess that allso explain the long beautiful wheelbase on my Genesis Longitude 2015 (just a magic bike that they sadly totally fucked up in the 2016 year version). /Noa

Why are the co-motion bikes so expensive? The frame is 2k

They’re made in the USA using some of the best steel tubing. Plus you can customise the geometry and choose from a huge range of colours. Although expensive compared to mass produced bikes, they are a great investment because custom frames tends to be something you keep for life. If you can justify the cost, why not? 🙂

Do you know of any touring bikes that come standard with hydraulic disc brakes?

Specialized AWOL Expert & Comp, Marin Four Corners Elite, Cannondale Touring Ultimate, Kona Sutra LTD and many of the European flat bar touring bikes.

Thanks for the info!

What does everyone think about the Nashbar TR1 Touring?

You’ll get a much better bike if you can stretch your $$$ to a Fuji. It has lower gears for climbing, a slower steering speed, a more upright position, longer chainstays and much nicer parts!

I am comparing a Marin four corner base model and trek 520. I like the look of the Marin and will also use the bike as a commuter. Some concern about bar end shifter.

How would the MEC National compare to any of these 8 bikes? https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5041-062/National-Bicycle

What is your opinion about Co -Motion Pangea

They’re about as good as it gets (provided you can afford the US $2k premium). Ultra-stiff steel tubing, handbuilt wheels, wide gear range, no shortcuts on parts and they can be customised in terms of colour, fittings and geometry. 🙂

@AleeDenham Yes I’m also curious to hear how it compares. Great article by the way!

This list is awesome! Thanks so much for putting it together! I was wondering if you had thoughts on either jamis aurora elite or raleigh tamland.

On paper, very similarly. The frame geometry, gear ratios and specification are certainly in-line with our options here. I haven’t heard anything from any MEC National owners however.

Jamis: Not quite as low gearing as I’d like, hydro disc brakes can be a pain to ‘bleed’ on a tour, a little pricer than similar models. Raleigh: It’s a ‘light touring’ bike compared to these so it won’t be able to take similar loads.

Hi, Great stuff here. No Koga proposition? Cheers

I’ve been really happy with the way my Koga has been riding, the WorldTraveller is sure to be added to the list soon. 😉

Alee….i would like to know the exactly amount in kilos These bikes can hold on each front and back rear racks…specially the fuji touring bike which has a 700×32 tires compared to the other ones that have 700×40….is it possible to load this bikes with 30kg on the front and 30kg on the back….i am Going to be cycling a few years and I need a bike where i can put all these amount of kg beacuse i will be selling things to support my trip….i itried to Find this info about kg limits but i couldnt Find anything….does anyone know about it?…. Thanks a Lot……

You don’t want to put that much weight on the front because it greatly affects the bike’s handling. I generally don’t recommend more than 15kg.

With regards to handling 30kg+ on the rear, I’d suggest that all frames will be fine with that load. What may not be fine is the rear wheel and the rack. I’d suggest custom building a rear wheel using a Ryde Andra rim ( https://www.cyclingabout.com/the-best-rims-for-bicycle-touring/ ) and using a Tubus Logo or Cargo 28 rear rack which has a 40kg weight rating ( https://www.cyclingabout.com/all-about-rear-pannier-racks/ ).

I think your best option for carrying 60kg in total will be by distributing your load onto a trailer. Here are some options: https://www.cyclingabout.com/best-bike-trailers-bicycle-touring/

Thanks a Lot Alee…very good advices…to be honest i really like the fuji touring but i Dont know if its possible to put bigger tires…fuji comes with 700×32…i would like to put 700×40 or bigger ones which i dont know if this change is possible or not on this bike…if i can do this then with the change of the rims to ryde andra i have a real touring bike that can really handle a really good load with no worries about it…..do you think the fuji touring fork allows to change to bigger tires than 700×32? Thanks Again for Being that helpful…….

The Fuji can just squeeze in 700x40c tyres, with some fenders…

Unless you’re sticking to paved roads with your load, I’d recommend something that can go to 700x50c.

Hey…what about the cinelli hobootleg 2018 bike….it looks a Pretty good bike for 1500 dollars…what do you think about it?….would you recommend it?…..here is the bike Link…. https://www.cinelli-usa.com/cinelli-hobootleg-complete-touring-bike-railway/ Thanks…..

Hi. Which one has the strongest frame? Which one has the best geometry? If you have one option for buying which one will you choose for yourself? I think masi and specialized are more for offroad than others? They also have shorter seat tube lenght.why? I live in Iran. I have read a lot about these 8 but still i am confused to choose which one of them. I wanna have a long trip around the world and i am from iran and i dont know how can i buy them here. Thanks

– I don’t know which one is the strongest, but I’d suggest they’re all within the same ballpark. – I’d pick a bike that has 2.0″ tyre capability with fender, and as low gear ratios as possible (18-20″ preferably). – These bikes will all perform similarly well on-road and off-road with the same tyres. – The short seat tube lengths allow your seatpost to flex more, providing additional comfort over a long seat tube. From a design perspective this is preferable, but most people like the traditional aesthetic of a long seat tube and horizontal top tube.

Thanks for your answer alee. So the only one of this list that has 2.0 tyre capacity with fenders is masi giramondo. Right? Is it possible to make all of this 8 bike gear ration 18-20? So as you said these 8 frame with a same stack and reach, the one has a shorter seat tube lenght is more comfortable? Did i understand right?

32h or 36h? Is it difference for a long trip around the world?

Is specialized awol a bikepacking bike or is it a right bike for having a long trip around the world?

In this list, in fuji, trek and surlys fork is kind of bend but others fork is more straight. Why? Is the straight one more strong?maybe in off road

– Fitting 2.0″ tyres and fenders will depend on the individual tyre and fender combination. The Surly, Trek and Fuji are the ones that probably won’t. – You can modify any drivetrain to achieve lower gears. It just depends on your budget. – Yes, more exposed seatpost provides more seatpost flex. But comfort more than this of course, it’s a function of bike fit, tyre width and your seat/handlebar/bartape too.

The quality of the wheel build, that is, the evenness of spoke tension is probably more important than the spoke number when comparing these bikes. Get any of these wheels checked regularly by a mechanic and they should be fine.

It’s designed for touring, but you can of course fit bikepacking bags to it.

Mostly aesthetics. You probably won’t find a difference in strength between them.

Thanks for your answer. They were so helpful. They told me its easier to find a 26 tube and tyre in the middle of nowhere or asia but its hard to find 700 somewhere. Is it right? If yes im going to get surly 26 disc trucker. Do you suggest surly 26 disc trucker for a long trip around the world? Is it comfort?

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10 of the Best Ebikes for Touring

After long hours in the saddle, we’ve selected ten of our favorite touring ebikes. We’ll go through the details of these in a moment, including the Pros, the Cons, and the typical price you can expect to pay for each. Before that, we’ll look at the key features that you should consider when choosing an electric bike for touring.

There’s no denying that cycle touring is quite hard work. Pedaling yourself and your bike along (even on the flat) for 10 miles, 20 miles, or more is a challenge. Once you’ve loaded up your bike with all the essentials for touring (including your toothbrush and clean underwear) you might even have difficulty going once around the block. Luckily, there’s an easy answer to this and it comes in the form of electric bikes (AKA ebikes). These are bikes that have an electric motor fitted to give you assistance as you pedal and they’re exploding in popularity.

How to choose an ebike for touring

At its most basic, an ebike is a pushbike with a battery and an electric motor fitted. Start hunting around, though, and you’ll soon discover there’s a wide array of brands, models and specs available. So, how do you choose the right one for your budget, tastes and needs? Well, there are a few key factors to consider and we’ll take a look at them now.

Comfort First up, you’ll want a bike that is comfortable to ride as you’re likely to be on it for long periods of time. Road bikes are built for speed and great for touring and will get you to your destination fastest. But, if you’re not used to cycling on one, then choose a bike that has a more upright riding position – our goal here is to see the sights, not set a PB time. Similarly, bikes that have wider tires and a more padded saddle are useful as these will help soak up the lumps and bumps of the road or trail surface and be more enjoyable to ride.

Battery range In recent years battery technology has come on in leaps and bounds, with some ebikes now able to take you up to 230 miles on a single charge. Choose an ebike that has a lithium-ion battery from a well-known manufacturer (such as Panasonic or Samsung).

Cargo-carrying capacity The best place to store your gear when you’re bike touring is on the bike. Loading up a heavy backpack will get uncomfortable and sweaty very quickly. It will also make you top-heavy and more likely to topple over. Look for ebikes that either have pannier racks pre-fitted or have the fixings so that you can add your own.

It’s also worth considering a step-through or low-step bike if you plan on carrying lots of cargo with you on your tour. This can make it easier to get on and off a fully-laden bike without tilting it dangerously over to one side.

Best ebikes for touring

Let’s take a look at our ten favorite electric bikes for touring. These cover a wide range of different styles and price ranges. Some have loads of added extras and some are a simpler design.

Pros: Bosch battery and motor combo, fitted rear rack and fenders, sloping downtube, front suspension Cons: What’s not to like about this Haibike! Rating: 9/10 Typical price: $2600 / Purchase at Backcountry.com

Pros: Integrated rear rack, low-step through frame, budget price Cons: No suspension, small wheels Rating: 7/10 Typical price: $1299 / Purchase at Radpowerbikes.com

Pros: Great Shimano electronics paired with a light and strong aluminum frame Cons: Limited space to install water bottle cage Rating: 8/10 Typical price: $2399 / Purchase at Rei.com

Pros: Folds for easy transport, pre-fitted fenders and rear rack, suits wide range of rider heights Cons: No suspension, small wheels Rating: 7/10 Typical price: $2799 / Purchase at Rei.com

Pros: Bosch motor, 28mph top speed, light aluminum frame Cons: no integrated rear cargo rack Rating: 8/10 Typical price: $4100 / Purchase at Backcountry.com

Pros: excellent bike package for trail touring and bikepacking Cons: non-locking front fork Rating: 8/10 Typical price: $4100 / Purchase at Rei.com

Pros: Massive cargo-carrying capacity, ideal for wide range of rider heights (4’8” to 6’4”) Cons: at 71 lbs, it’s a heavy bike Rating: 7/10 Typical price: $4999 / Purchase at Rei.com

Wilier Cento1HY Ultegra E-Bike

(Photo: wilier.com)

Amongst die-hard bike tourers, there’s an obsession with trying to cut out weight before a tour commences. Eating salads and sawing toothbrushes in half are all common practice. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Wilier does away with the need for all of that scary green stuff and suspect dental hygiene by giving us the Cento1HY. An ebike that is one of the lightest around (at only 26 lbs) and has oodles of power available (a 250W motor delivering speeds up to 20mph).

Pros: super-light ebike Cons: limited cargo-carrying potential Rating: 8/10 Typical price: $6000 / Purchase at CompetitiveCyclist.com

Pros: 26 lbs bike weight, hidden power, Shimano drivetrain Cons: limited cargo capacity Rating: 9/10 Typical price: $7200 / Purchase at CompetitiveCyclist.com

Pros: Shimano GRX Di2 electronic shifting, go-anywhere touring bike Cons: $$$ Rating: 9.5/10 Typical price: $9999 / Purchase at CompetitiveCyclist.com

—————————————————–

Ben Jones is a lover not a fighter, a cyclist not a DIY-er, and the founder of BicycleVolt a handy resource for cyclists from Tour-de-France wannabees to those just starting out on their bicycling journey.

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The Best Bikes for Every Type of Ride

By Christine Frietchen

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

My world changed when I bought my first bicycle. Walking into the local bike shop, I was bewildered by the choices (and prices) of the best bikes. I left with a cheap hybrid bike—regretted that particular purchase after a mere month; see below—but it changed the way I experienced my hometown of New York City .

On a bicycle, you’re moving fast enough to really cover some ground , but slow enough to notice everything you miss whizzing by in a car. I began to call my bike excursions “tiny travels,” venturing to the Louis Armstrong museum in Corona, Queens , exploring the Civil War-era Fort Totten designed by Robert E. Lee, and pedaling out to the Steinway piano factory, around which a whole neighborhood had been built in 1870 for its German immigrant workers. Along the way I stopped for authentic Chinese dumplings, homemade Indian samosas, and Dominican street food.

I quickly moved on to a lighter, better quality two-wheeler, and nowadays, I travel with my bike whenever I can. It’s my preferred exploration vehicle.

There’s no time like the present to rediscover the wind-in-your-hair thrill and freedom of a bicycle , especially these days , when big getaways and elaborate travel aren’t options . Cycling allows you to quietly connect to your own ecosystem. You are part of the landscape rather than merely moving through it. You’ll notice architecture, scenery, and wildlife you never knew were just a few miles from home.

No one bike is perfect for every kind of riding, but there’s absolutely something out there for everyone. Below, seven types of the best bikes to cover the environments you're most likely to encounter and our pick for the best bike in each category, along with tips for where to get one and what accessories you'll want to purchase, too.

All products featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Gravel bike

Best for: Pavement, dirt and gravel roads, touring

If any bike comes closest to a jack of all trades, it’s a gravel bike. Wide wheel clearance lets you go with fatter tires for rough terrain, or smoother rubber for pavement. Drop handlebars give you lots of hand positions for the best comfort on long rides. A wide gear range gives you smooth shifting for steep descents and climbing.

• Great for various types of terrain
• Wide gear range
• Lightweight
• No suspension, so not appropriate for true mountain biking or singletrack

Best gravel bike: Diamondback Haanjo 3 and Haanjenn 3 This versatile, snazzy looking bike has a longer wheelbase and slightly wider handlebars for excellent stability. It weighs just 24 pounds and includes frame mounts for fenders and racks to boost utility.

Buy now: Diamondback Haanjenn 3, $900, diamondback.com Buy now: Diamondback Haanjo 3, $1,10, eriksbikeshop.com

Mountain bike

Best for: Gnarly trails, singletrack

Mountain bikes have flat handlebars and a more upright body position that many people find comfortable. Full-suspension models are best for the roughest and most technical trails, like winding mountain singletracks, while ‘hardtails’ (front suspension only) work well for less technical terrain like rocky fire roads and muddy country lanes. Swap their nubby tires for smoother/smaller tires and lock out the suspension for a passible everyday bike on roads. Add fenders to fling off the mud. Most have a smaller number of gears compared to some other styles, which reduces maintenance, but can make it harder to find the comfiest one.

• Chews up trails and muddy terrain
• Can switch to slick tires for road use

María Casbas

Jessica Chapel

Madison Flager

• Limited hand positions
• Limited gear range

Best mountain bike: Specialized Rockhopper Comp This classic hardtail is a great value and weighs a reasonable 29 pounds.

Buy now: $750, specialized.com

Best for: Leisurely neighborhood rides

Cruisers or beach cruisers are cute, stable bikes for touring the neighborhood . Many come standard with fenders, chain guards, and storage racks, and some have a step-through design that make them especially easy to get on and off. Their heavy weight makes them a challenge on hills, though.

• Stable, low center of gravity
• Usually come with fenders, baskets, racks, etc.
• Cute and nostalgic
• Terrible for hilly areas

Best cruiser: Townie Electra 7D Step-through This easy-to-ride bike has a low axle height, making it effortless to put a foot down at stops. At 35 pounds, you’ll want to stick to flat terrain.

Buy now: $630, trekbikes.com

Electric bike

Best for: Fun riding with less effort

Electric bikes have revolutionized cycling, making it accessible for those with mobility issues, and enabling everyone to ride much farther with a fraction of the effort. “Pedal-assist” models have the same feel as a regular bike, but your pedal strokes are supercharged by the motor. Most have a removable rear- or tube-mounted battery with a range of between 30 and 60 miles before needing a recharge. Some hide the battery in the frame, so it’s not obvious you’re riding an e-bike.

• Goes further with less fatigue
• Pedal-assisted models still feel like riding a bike
• Many no longer “look” like an electric bike
• Must recharge battery/limited range
• Heavy, expensive

Best E-bike: Cannondale Treadwell Neo EQ The Treadwell hides its battery within the frame tube and to the naked eye looks like any other bike. The battery can’t be removed, so you’ll need a garage or storage area with a power source for recharging. The battery has about a 40-mile range and brings total bike weight to about 39 pounds.

Buy now: $2,650, cannondale.com

Commuter bike

Best for: Stop/start urban rides

Commuter bikes, sometimes called urban bikes, are simple and good looking for city and suburb commutes and family rides. Their flat handlebars and upright riding position ensure good visibility for city rides, stop/starts, and hitting up the farmer’s market, but aren’t as comfortable for long endurance rides.

• Better for hills than a cruiser or a folding bike
• Can be fitted with fenders, racks
• Not for off-road use

Best commuter bike: Brooklyn Bicycle Co. Bedford 3-Speed This hip-looking urban bike has a steel frame that absorbs pothole bumps. It comes in both three- and seven-speed versions.

Buy now: $580, brooklynbicycleco.com

Best for: Speed and endurance on well-maintained roads

Want to know what it’s like to bomb a descent at 50 mph? ‘Roadies’ are fast, light, and sexy, with carbon-fiber frames and an aggressive, lower riding position. But they get expensive fast—a $2,500 model can be considered a starter bike and they can run up to $15,000 with electronic shifting and braking, race wheels, and every aerodynamic doodad.

• Precise sizing
• Aerodynamic and fast
• Overkill for casual neighborhood rides
• Not for off-roading

Best road bike: Trek Domane SL6 This full-carbon beast comes in a wide range of precise sizes to fit anyone from 4’11” to 6’3.” Upgraded versions come with electronic shifting, race wheels, and even a custom paint job.

Buy now: From $4,100, trekbikes.com

Folding bike

Best for: Office workers

These problem-solving bikes fold up with just a few flicks (it’s one of those things that will take you 20 minutes the first time, then 90 seconds thereafter). The urban suit crowd can carry their bike from the ‘burbs by commuter train, then unfold and ride the last few miles to the office, refolding in a flash for the elevator. The small wheels on a folding bike are perfectly fine for good roads, but you’ll feel every bump or pothole otherwise.

• Best for storage/tight spaces
• Travel bags and boxes available
• Not good for long rides or serious hills
• Bumpy ride on less-than-smooth roads

Best folding bike: Brompton M6L This 26-pound, six-gear bike from the folding-bike leader is easy to fold and unfold down to 23”x 23” x 11”.

Buy now: $1,590, rei.com

Hybrid bike

Best for: Your back-up bike

Also called a ‘comfort’ or ‘fitness’ bike, hybrids try to be everything, but excel at nothing. Low-grade components and heavy weight make them fine for a ‘guest’ bike, but that’s about it. Rather than a hybrid, think hard about what you want to do on your bike, and match to one of the types above. If you must buy a hybrid, get the cheapest possible model at a big-box store and don’t expect much. Another option is to hit up garage sales and plan on getting a tune-up at a local shop.

• Inexpensive
• Lowest-grade components
• Uncomfortable

More bike tips

Size matters.

At minimum, you need a bike that allows you to straddle it comfortably, and easily put a foot on the ground when stopped. You should not have to rock side-to-side to reach the pedals. You’ll see bikes sold in ranges (S/M/L etc.) or as a numeric size (46 is about the smallest you’ll see, and 62 the largest).

Where to buy

Bikes are mechanical. Parts wear out and need replacement, and you’ll need periodic tune ups. That makes your local bike shop the best bet for an initial purchase, as you’ll likely get a couple of years of free adjustments. Some brands now offer online ordering with pickup at a local shop or home delivery.

Essential accessories

You need a brain bucket (a helmet) and a bike pump at minimum (you can get decent versions of both for $30 to $70). Get a bike lock if you plan on making some stops ($20 to $100).

Optional gear

Bottles cages, fenders, racks, and baskets add weight but increase utility. Most bikes have mounts for these. A small repair kit with an extra inner tube and inflation tool can be a life saver if you’re far from home with a flat tire.

Non-profits with maps and travel tips

For more details on routes, check out Adventure Cycling Association , an advocacy group focused on bike touring in the U.S., and Great American Rail Trail/Rails to Trails Conservancy for maps and a database of trails in your state.

Packing List

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It’s Riding Season and These Bikes Are Great to Travel With

Whether you plan to take your bike to the city, country, or mountains, these bicycles are great to travel with.

Cassandra Brooklyn

Photo Illustration: Scouted/The Daily Beast/Vendors

Biking is one of the best ways to enjoy any destination, so whether you’re planning to reach your next vacation by plane, train, or automobile, consider bringing your bicycle with you. Travel-friendly bikes tend to be light, easy to break down, and rugged enough that they can sustain getting banged up a bit during transit. In order to keep your bike safe – both at home and on the road – consider these bike locks and safety devices , too. If you’re looking for new wheels to travel with, you’re in luck. Here’s our top picks for travel-friendly rides.

Best Road: Alchemy Atlas

Best Commuter: Priority Bicycles

Best Gravel: Niner RLT 9 Steel

Best Mountain: Trek Fuel EX

Best E-Bike: Specialized Turbo Vado SL

Best Kids: Woom

The lightweight and durable Atlas road bike by Alchemy is perfect for travel because it’s easy to put in a car, on a train, or even on an airplane (with a sturdy bike bag , that is). Its custom paint finish will stand up to abuse and keep looking good no matter what it encounters. Since the bike is semi-custom, you can build it to suit your particular needs, such as having wireless shifting and/or quick-release wheels.

A widely known name Is the bicycle world—Priority Bicycles has been making award winning bikes since their start In 2014. The Classic Plus Is an ideal commuter bike for anyone looking to ditch the car this spring/summer. One of my favorite features of this bike Is the ultralight and rust-proof aluminum frame that makes It easy for me to carry up and down stairs at home or the office.

Don’t let the name fool you – gravel bikes are not just for gravel. Gravel bikes are basically extra-rugged road bikes that allow for wider tires that can handle paved streets and rough roads alike. The RLT 9 Steel by Niner uses higher-quality steel than most bikes and comes with a carbon fiber fork, which allows the bike to be both light and strong, making it perfect for travel. The bike also has mounting bolts directly on the frame and accessory, frame-mounted bags available (separately!) for a clean and secure cargo-carrying capability.

This is Trek’s most popular trail bike for a reason. The Fuel EX is a versatile, full-suspension mountain bike that can handle whatever terrain you throw at it, from rugged descents to rolling terrain. Though the bike’s toughness should be able to handle whatever travel challenges thrown its way, should you need to get any replacement parts, Trek’s large dealer network means you should be able to find parts or service wherever you are.

E-bikes are notorious for being heavy and clunky – not exactly what you want to haul around on a trip. Enter the Turbo Vado SL , which, at only 33lbs, is one of the lightest e-bikes on the market. This light, versatile bike can easily fit on most bike racks, making it perfect for road trips, and its 120-mile range (160 if you buy the optional range extender) may even allow you to skip bringing your car altogether!

Let’s be honest, most kids’ bikes are heavy and made with low-quality (dare I say “junky”?) parts. Woom bikes are the exception; they’re basically adult-quality bikes made for kids. If your kiddo loves to ride and you want to invest in a high-quality bike that is light enough to pack up and bring on vacation, then you need a Woom.

Scouted selects products independently and prices reflect what was available at the time of publish. Don’t forget to check out our coupon site to find activewear deals from Nike , adidas , and more. If you buy something from our posts, we may earn a small commission.

Got a tip? Send it to The Daily Beast  here .

READ THIS LIST

The Best Commuter Bikes of 2022

If you're thinking of ditching your car or public transit for a two-wheeler, then take a look at our list of the best commuter bikes.

When it comes to picking a commuter bike, there are a surprising number of options. Do you want a bike that will get you to and from the office and happy hour looking fly? Or do you prefer a bike that’s also rideable on trails in your local open space, parks, or national forest lands?

Do you need it to store easily, or be easy to repair? With all of these considerations in mind — and with an eye toward a range of prices — we rounded up a few fantastic commuter options. These include setups under $1,000 that are perfect for those dipping their toes (or maybe clipping their toes) in new waters.

Whether you’re just embarking on a commuter lifestyle or looking for a new everyday ride, it’s possible to get a great commuter bicycle for just a few hundred bucks. Or you can invest a higher amount for a more novel, techier, plusher setup.

In our buyers guide , we discuss the most important information to ponder before heading to your nearest local bike shop or online retailer.

Once you have an idea of what you are looking for, scroll through our selection of recommended bikes or jump to the category that piques your interest:

• Basic Commuter
• Coolest Commuter
• Off-Road Commuter
• Classic Fixie
• Best Folding Bike
• Best Cyclist Splurge
• Best Spec’d

Best Commuter Bikes for Less Than $1,000

Basic commuter: co-op cycles cty 2.1 step-through bike.

Co-op Cycles, REI’s in-house bike brand, has come a long way in a few short years. After retiring the Novara brand, REI rebooted its cycling program and now offers sturdy bikes at reasonable prices. Not to mention, a bike purchase includes free tune-ups and dividends if you’re a Co-op member.

The CTY 2.1 ($799) offers a perfect, basic, no-frills commuter bike with 700×40 Kenda tires and Shimano M315 hydraulic disc brakes for good stopping power. It comes with the Shimano Acera 24-speed derailleur system that’s easy to use and repair if needed.

Meanwhile, the aluminum frame keeps the weight relatively low, even if you opt to add fenders or a rack to carry work gear.

• Frame: Aluminum
• Number of gears: 24 (3×8 drivetrain)
• Suspension: Front suspension with 63mm fork travel
• Wheel size: 700c
• Tire width: 40 mm
• Brakes: Hydraulic disc brakes
• Weight: 30 lbs., 15 oz. (median size)
• Step-through style frame for easy mount and dismount
• Bump-absorbing front shocks
• Wider tires and shocks allow for trail or gravel riding
• 24 gears make inclines easier
• Suspension forks can add more weight than rigid forks
• Not a top hybrid option for rougher mountain bike trails
• More gears than may be necessary for flatter terrain

Coolest Commuter: Brooklyn Bicycle Co. Bedford 8 Speed

If you prefer a bike that will look like art in a small apartment, the Brooklyn Bicycle Co. Bedford 8 Speed ($600) is it. This bike has eight speeds to help urban riders save sweat while pedaling rollercoaster routes.

This bike has a traditional diamond-shaped and durable steel frame plus serious style points. The steel isn’t your parents’ 1970s steel; it’s a much lighter steel alloy, but with the same strong quality. It’s a great option for San Franciscans or Manhattanites with commutes to work in hilly or flat areas and small spaces for bike storage.

Sleek army-green paint, along with a comfortable vegan leather saddle and grips, helps this bike pair with anything. But its burly, puncture-resistant 32mm tires can handle city streets and cobblestones.

This bike is great for budget shoppers thanks both to its $600 price tag and the fact that Brooklyn Bicycle Co. offers monthly financing.

• Frame: Steel
• Number of gears: Shimano 1×8 drivetrain
• Suspension: None
• Tire width: 32 mm
• Brakes: Side-pull caliper
• Weight: 26-31 lbs. (sizes S-L)
• Comfortable upright riding position
• Tires are wide enough for bumps, but not too wide to slow you down
• A wide gear range that can still handle hills but isn’t overkill
• Price point
• Don’t choose this one for a road cycling workout
• Not ideal for off-road mountain biking
• Caliper brakes may not be ideal for rainy areas

Off-Road Commuter: Trek 820 WSD and Trek 820

That’s right — you can still score big-name bikes at low prices if you know what to look for. Trek’s 820 ($500) is the perfect intro off-road bike that will pedal comfortably to the office but will remain poised for action if you want to get a little “sendy” on the ride home.

The steel frame has a suspension fork with 75 mm of travel, fit for reasonable rough areas and modest trails, plus wide 26-inch tires. The Shimano Tourney 21-speed drivetrain provides power. For women, Trek’s version has a step-through design to ease hopping on and off.

Mounts for fenders and a rack are ready for accessories to haul gear on the commute. Bontrager, Trek’s house brand, rounds out components like bars and the saddle, and Tektro provides pull brakes. (Unfortunately, it’s hard to find good disc brakes at this low of a price point.)

At $500, it’s comparable with big-box store mountain bike options, with the Trek brand (and R&D department) backing it. Even if you can find a cheaper mountain bike at Walmart, this one is well worth the few extra bucks.

• Number of gears: 21 (3×7 drivetrain)
• Suspension: Front suspension with 75mm fork travel
• Wheel size: 26″
• Tire width: 2″
• Brakes: Linear pull brakes
• Weight: 33.4 lbs. (size M and when using tire tubes)
• Solid for tackling lighter mountain biking trails and urban commutes
• Has braze-ons for the ability to add racks
• Excellent price for durable off-road design
• Larger gear range for hill climbing
• Caliper brakes are not as responsive as hydraulic brakes
• 26″ wheels

Check 820 WSD Price at Summit Bicycles Check 820 Price at Summit Bicycles

Classic Fixie: State Bicycle Co. Wulf 

Can’t stop, won’t stop: the fixed-gear aficionado motto. Nothing beats the simplicity of a fixed-gear bike, nor does anything else provide the same commuter-chic style. A perfect example? The $400 stealthy matte black fixie from State Bicycle Co.

The Wulf is the brand’s base model, but it’s designed to blend in and look unobtrusive when you need to lock it outside of a dive bar. Yet it still looks classy enough to hang on your wall or walk into your office.

It comes with a flip-flop hub, meaning if you prefer to run it single-speed (and coast) and use standard brakes (included with the bike), that’s an option.

Plus, while many brands don’t offer extra-small fixed-gear models, State Bicycle Co. actually carries frame sizes from 46-58 cm. That’s great news for the shorties out there. The bike also comes with a 5-year warranty for any manufacturer’s defects on the frame and fork.

• Number of gears: Single-speed or fixed
• Tire width: 25 mm
• Brakes: Dual-pivot caliper brakes
• Weight: 24.5 lbs. (size 54cm frame)
• Extra-small frame option for shorter folks
• Website allows you to customize frame options: handlebars, saddle, pedals, etc., and add accessories like handlebar bags, pedal straps, lights, and more
• Streamlined appearance
• Minimal maintenance
• A single speed isn’t the best option for hilly areas

Best Pricey Commuter Bikes

Best folding bike: tern node d7i folding bike.

Perhaps you are a multimodal commuter, traveling pathways by train, bus, or car. A folding bike can make your life a lot easier. There are plenty out there that could make this list for under $200 — but you get what you pay for, and folding bikes are pretty complicated.

Shell out more cash for a well-established brand like Tern, and you’ll spend $1,299 for the entry-level Node D7i . But you’ll get a bike that doesn’t break down halfway through the workweek.

The aluminum frame comes equipped with Shimano components and offers seven speeds. Its main difference from pricier folding bike models is simply that it’s a bit heavier, weighing in at just under 32 pounds. But that’s not too tough to lug onto the bus or train.

• Number of gears: 7 (1×7 drivetrain)
• Wheel size: 24″
• Brakes: Linear-pull
• Weight: 31 lbs., 3.2 oz. (based on median size)
• Folds up for easy storage at home and on the go
• Internal gear hub means less maintenance
• Great for commutes that include bus and train rides
• Some commuters might desire more gear options
• Not as compact as some folding bikes

Best Cyclist Splurge : Surly Disc Trucker 

If you talk about bombproof bikes, the Surly name will almost certainly come up in conversation. These bikes are built to last no matter what you put them through.

True story: GearJunkie reporter Molly Hurford’s first cyclocross bike was a borrowed 5-year-old Surly Cross Check that’s still being passed around to young riders in New Jersey 12 years later.

For a cyclist looking for a bike that can handle anything from gravel grinding to long cross-country tours or a simple 2-mile commute, the Surly Disc Trucker ($2,049) is a great option. The steel frame might be heavy, but it will outlive any carbon frame on the market — this is a bike your grandchildren can inherit. And the Trucker is Surly’s touring bike, so it’s ready for racks and fenders for optimal commuting and adventuring.

Plus, it can fit fatter 62mm tires on 26-inch wheels or 41mm tires on 29-inch wheels, making it extra gnarly if you want. But it will still offer a smooth, comfortable ride if you’re wearing a business suit.

• Number of gears: 27 (3×9 drivetrain)
• Wheel size: 26″ or 29″
• Tire width: 41-62 mm (high width of 2.4″)
• Weight: 27.9 lbs.
• Durable steel frame
• Use 26″ or 700c wheels for more variability for different adventures
• Good bike for commuting and long tours
• Tubeless tire capability makes for great handling, especially on gravel surfaces
• Plenty of braze-ons for all your hauling needs
• On the pricier end of our list
• Drop bar setup not suitable for everyone

Best Spec’d Commuter: PRIORITY 600

We get it — sometimes you just don’t have time to build out the perfect commuter bike. If you’re in a busy area and just don’t have time to equip your bike with all of the bells and whistles you need to feel safe, secure, and dry on your way to work, consider splurging on the PRIORITY 600 ($2,499).

No Chain, No Derailleur, 12 Speeds: Priority 600 First Look

With its jet-black finish, unassuming geometry, and absolutely silent ride, the Priority 600 commuter bicycle won't turn many heads. But it quietly houses the latest in cycling tech and boasts Porsche DNA. Read more…

With its jet-black finish, unassuming geometry, and absolutely silent ride, the PRIORITY 600 commuter bicycle won’t turn many heads. But it quietly houses the latest in cycling tech and boasts Porsche DNA.

The 600 is PRIORITY’s all-road model, capable of tackling the commute even if a road is torn up by construction. It has a sealed, weatherproof, internally geared 12-speed Pinion gearbox PRIORITY claims is equivalent to a traditional 30-speed bicycle. It’s a unique system that’s closer to an automotive transmission than a traditional derailleur.

Turning the wheels, the Gates Carbon Drive belt provides a rustproof alternative to a bike chain, so this bike is ready for the worst spring showers. Meanwhile, Tektro’s hydraulic disc brakes mean you’ll be able to stop on a dime, even if there’s unexpected black ice on the road.

And 650b Road Plus tires from WTB feel like normal road tires on pavement, but offer plushness that makes the bike great for mellow trails or gravel rides as well.

Lastly, the 600 comes with full fenders, dynamo hubs for front and rear lights so you’ll never have to charge a light again, and reflective paint details, so you don’t need to add to your budget installing extras.

PRIORITY is an especially good choice if you need your bike yesterday. Easily the simplest buying process on this list, all PRIORITY orders ship the same day. And if you have a local VeloFix branch, you can use code “velofix600” for free VeloFix white glove delivery.

• Number of gears: Pinion C1.12 12-speed (gear range equivalent to a 30-speed)
• Wheel size: 650b
• Tire width: 47 mm
• Weight: 31.2 lbs. (with pedals)
• No chain to manage, rust, or sling grease
• Super-low maintenance
• Dynamo hubs also have a USB feature — charge your phone on the go
• Premium price
• A bit heavy compared to similar bicycles

Why You Should Trust Us

Alyssa Kohn is a full-time bike commuter and endurance cyclist living in Minneapolis, Minn. She’s been carless for 8 years — yes, even in the arctic winter. She’s ridden many a bike and doesn’t think one style is better than another. She loves them all and thinks what matters most is that you enjoy the bike you’re riding.

She also owned a bike tour and rental business, Minneapolis by Bike, for 9 years — she knows a thing or two about maintaining 30+ bikes at a time. She thoroughly enjoys seeing people excited about getting into cycling, and even possibly making it their new transit of choice.

Buyers Guide: How to Choose the Best Commuter Bike

As you dream up your commuter bike, consider these factors: where you’ll ride, how you’ll use the bike, the required maintenance, and your budget.

Overall Terrain

For those who need to commute strictly on road and paved bike paths, consider how hilly the routes will be. Will you need to climb often, up steep sections, or for long periods? Will you mostly cruise across flats? The more gears in your drivetrain, the more versatile your bike will be for various inclines.

Also, think about the condition of the ground. Is the pavement smooth? Will there be a smattering of potholes, cracks, or sidewalk drops? Some riders might also need or prefer to pedal dirt roads, gravel, and hard-packed or bumpy trails during their commute.

If you’ll be covering a wide mix of turf, you might want to look at bikes with wider tires and front suspension to help absorb the jolts and provide more stability.

You can also opt for a front suspension that locks out, so you won’t waste energy on the glassier pavement. Otherwise, slightly narrower tires and a fully rigid frame feel good at high speeds on smooth paths.

Primary Purpose

No matter where you intend to ride, make a purchase that supports the conditions and how you pedal the majority of the time. That way, you’ll be comfortable and have fun in the saddle.

Also, consider exactly how you like to ride. Do you want to be more upright? Then you may want a hybrid or mountain bike. Do you want to be more aerodynamic and don’t mind being more bent over? A drop-bar bike (read: the curly ones on most Tour de France riders’ bikes) would suit you.

Some bikes are well-made for the sport of road cycling, downhill mountain biking, or comfortably moseying around small towns. Commuters aren’t that.

We’ve summarized a handful of diverse commuter bikes made for simple, efficient, dependable trips from point A to point B. Some of these designs are also a match for riding easy or moderate trails or for long bikepacking tours, like the Surly Disc Trucker .

If you need to transport cargo on your bike, you’ll need to get one with mount points (braze-ons) so you can add racks.

Define Your Budget

As with any big purchase, you’ll need to determine the boundaries of your budget. The goal should be to buy the best bike you can afford, so it’s hopefully one you’ll love and use for many years. With commuter bikes, you get what you pay for.

Higher-end bikes are sometimes expensive because of better-quality components like lighter and stronger frames, longer-wearing parts, or nicer wheels. They can also be pricier because they’re decked out with extra accessories like the lighting and fenders on the PRIORITY 600 . Or, they’re novel and more complicated to create like the Tern Node D7i Folding Bike .

The right bike is the one that provides the maximum comfort and functionality for your daily travel. It should also fit your bandwidth and ability for maintenance (some pricier bikes can be easier to maintain).

A commuter bike can last many years and therefore should be seen as a long-term investment. Buy a bike that fits your budget but also offers room to accommodate the terrain you’ll need to cover on your way to and from work.

Be sure to contemplate any additional accessories you’ll want to purchase such as fenders, racks, lights, or upgraded seats and pedals.

Retail vs. Online Purchase

If you’re purchasing your new bike locally, you’ll often have the option to demo the bike before you buy it. Professionals will be on hand to offer additional recommendations and different components to better suit your skills and ambitions.

However, if you live in a rural, remote area without a bike retailer nearby, you’re in luck — purchasing online is easier than ever. Many brands have polished up their customer service for direct-to-consumer sales, so you can reach out with questions about the fit and components.

If you can’t demo a bike, make sure the manufacturer offers a no-questions-asked return policy. If a bike is the wrong size, you’ll want to be able to swap it out without getting charged.

You also may need to consider your bike mechanic skills. If purchasing a bike from your local bike shop, they will already have assembled your bike for you. If purchasing online, your bike will come in a box and will require some assembly (more or less depending on the type of bike you purchase).

Whether you are buying in-store or online, you will need to know what size bike fits you. The best eyeball measurement for bike fit is that the seat of the bike hits the top of your hips. Also, you want the top tube of the bike (provided it is a diamond frame, or what most people call a “men’s bike”) to give an inch of clearance from your crotch.

If purchasing online, you can follow some general size charts like this one provided by Trek.

Bear in mind that bike sizing is a very specific and individual science. It can vary depending on your torso size, inseam, etc. General guidelines may not always be correct.

Most hybrid and road bicycle frames are measured in centimeters. Mountain bike frames are usually measured in inches or they can be simply measured as small, medium, large, etc.

Rigid Frame

A design without suspension is called a rigid bike. These static frames are generally less expensive compared to other frames.

They provide stability if you need to haul weight on your bike frame (like groceries or equipment for work) because the lack of suspension eliminates bounce that can make pedaling less efficient.

Hardtail Bike

A hardtail bike has front suspension but no rear suspension. The front shock compresses and extends as you ride to absorb uneven contours. Hardtails are more expensive than bikes without suspension but are cheaper than full-suspension bikes.

Hardtails are a great option for routes with a mix of smooth and bumpy pavements, lots of curbs, or uneven dirt paths. Hardtails can be a good choice for both road commutes and mountain bike trails, as long as the rider doesn’t mind not having a full-suspension configuration.

Frame Materials and Weight

Commuter bike frames are typically made of aluminum or steel. Steel is heavier and lasts longer, but aluminum is also a durable option. The commuter bikes on our list range from 26 to 34 pounds.

Aluminum, however, does not offer as much damping as steel for off-road riding (such as gravel) unless you have shocks to absorb the bumps like the Co-op Cycles CTY 2.1 on our list.

Drivetrain and Gears

These days, most commuter bikes come with a 1x drivetrain with a single chainring in the front and a range of gears in the rear. This kind of configuration means you will have one shifter instead of two, which simplifies things and makes space in your cockpit for a dropper post and other options.

Some bikes, like the Trek 820 and Co-op Cycles CTY 2.1 Step-Through Bike , have a 2x or 3x drivetrain. That means there will be two or three chainrings in the front plus the range on the rear. Ultimately, this provides the rider with more gear options controlled with two shifters mounted to the handlebars.

The commuter bikes with gears in our guide feature anywhere from seven to 30 gears. The best setup depends on how much climbing you’ll need to do versus flat terrain as well as personal preference.

Single Speeds

You’ll also come across single-speed bikes, a design with one gear and no shifters. Not all single-speeds are the same.

The power a cyclist can transfer into a single-speed bike is determined by the front chainring and rear cog’s circumference and the number of teeth. The number of teeth on the front divided by the number in the rear gives us a ratio, which is a metric used to understand the overall cadence and ability to accelerate or maintain speed.

For instance, the State Bicycle Co. Wulf has a 44×16 gear ratio that allows for easier acceleration.

A fixed-gear bike, or a fixie, is a specific type of single-speed bike. The drivetrain of a fixie has one gear, and it’s fixed to the rear wheel so the rider has to continuously pedal if the wheels are in motion. There’s no freewheel mechanism. Essentially, this means you can never coast if you like to let your legs rest on the downhills.

But if you want to perform some cool tricks, master a track stand, or practice your skids, a fixie will bring all the fun. The State Bicycle Co. Wulf has the ability to be a single-speed or a fixie, as it has a flip-flop hub.

Commuter bikes are generally fitted with 24-, 26-, 27.5-, or 29-inch wheels, which refers to the diameter. You’ll often see 27.5-inch wheels referred to as 650b, and 29-inch wheels known as 29ers or 700c.

The wheel size can change how a bike feels for the rider. A larger wheel diameter can feel more stable and has more surface contact and traction, which can be good for choppy ground and snow. It’s also heavier. A smaller wheel (and narrower tire) is lighter and better for higher speeds on smooth ground.

Wheel size is a major contributor to the way a bike will ride, but it isn’t everything. The frame and kinematics of any bike work together with wheel size to offer different strengths and characteristics. For this reason, wheel size on its own isn’t a good reason to choose a bike, especially for newer riders.

Tire Width and Tread

The tire widths on our selected commuter bikes range from 25 to 61 mm wide. In comparison, most road bikes are outfitted with tires that have a 23-30mm width.

A width above 30 mm is better for gravel. Even more, 50-58mm tires (which are 1.9-2.3 inches wide) are good for cross-country tours when you’ll likely encounter uneven surface areas.

Tire width for mountain bikes can range from about 2.3-2.5 inches, while fat bike tires are even wider. That said, there are no hard-and-fast rules, and tire choice depends a lot on rider preference.

Tires with deep, rough tread will grip the terrain better than smooth tread, but smooth tread tends to be lighter and faster. Wide tires also tend to be heavier, and they roll with greater resistance. However, extra width can be an asset for riders looking for stability and a more forgiving ride.

Another consideration for tires and wheels is tubeless compatibility. Tubeless tires generally result in fewer flats and quicker puncture fixes. And they also provide more control and better handling, particularly on gravel and dirt surfaces. Both the PRIORITY 600 and the Surly Disc Trucker boast tubeless compatibility.

Maintenance

There are several considerations when thinking about bike maintenance. For those wanting less maintenance, we often suggest an internal gear or hub bike.

These bikes have all the gears in the rear hub (think the rear axle) or a gearbox at the bottom bracket (the part your cranks and pedals attach to). These include the PRIORITY 600 as opposed to a derailleur — the shifting system most bikes are equipped with, which has multiple chainrings on the rear wheel.

The advantage of an internal hub or gearbox is that the gears are all inside the hub and therefore rarely get dirty. Also, you don’t risk bumping them and messing up the shifting tension.

The tension is also much easier to fix yourself. However, depending on the number of gears you have, you may need to have them oiled or greased every 12 to 24 months.

The more gears you have, the more likely you will need that maintenance. Also, more gears and an internal hub mean your rear wheel is heavier.

A derailleur system requires more frequent adjustments of cable tension in order to keep your shifting performing well. Keeping the chainrings clean can also be a task, as is lubing and cleaning the chain.

And you will need to replace the chain and cogs as they wear. With some effort, this is easier to learn and maintain on your own, but greasing/oiling an internal hub is more specialized.

A few basic maintenance practices will prolong the life of your components and boost your bike’s performance (and your fun). Lube your drivetrain regularly with bicycle-specific lubricant . Bike lube cleans the chain by removing grit and grime while also reducing wear and friction.

It’s best to leave lube on the chain overnight. Before you ride the following day, spin the pedals backward while you hold a rag against the chain to remove excess lube and sludge.

Hardtails should have their suspension systems serviced in a bike shop every 30 hours of riding. Other components that should be checked and serviced regularly include cables and brake pads.

Make sure your tires have adequate air in them before every ride. Unlike car tires, bike tires lose air more quickly. Each tire has a recommended psi (pound-force per square inch) printed on its side. Generally, for paved surfaces, you’ll want the tire to feel like a ripe orange — firm but squeezable.

What is the best bike for commuting to work?

There are lots of high-quality commuter bike brands to choose from. Some of the big-name brands that are well known and reputable include Trek and Surly.

Instead of the brand, try to focus on what your needs are as a rider. The best commuter bike will suit the domain where you ride, fit your budget and maintenance needs, and feel fun to pedal where you live and play.

How much does a good commuter bike cost?

The price of commuter bikes can vary a ton. On this list, we’ve considered value, quality, and pros and cons to compile the best options between $500 and $2,499.

Some bikes maintain an affordable price tag and still include high-quality features like disc brakes and front suspension. We consider the bikes on this list to be a good bang for your buck.

How do I choose a commuter bike?

Consider the region where you’ll be riding your bike to and from work or around town. When the landscape is full of hills, you’ll want more gears to help make the climbs easier.

If the terrain is smooth and you intend to carry gear on your bike, a rigid bike is a good choice for agility and stability. Rough topography — like potholes and chunky, deteriorating pavement — is handled well by front suspension and wider tires that help absorb the unevenness.

You’ll also need to determine a budget for your new bike. If you intend to carry items on the bike frame, look for a bike that has mount points for accessories, so you can add racks and fenders.

Some top-tier bikes have special features like the sealed, weatherproof, internally geared 12-speed Pinion gearbox on the PRIORITY 600 — but they come at a premium.

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Best Electric Touring Bikes for Your Next Adventure

Bicycle touring has been around for hundreds of years, with some of the earliest records dating back to the 1800s.

Long before cars and motorbikes were invented, people would use bicycles to tour long distances, sometimes across entire continents. Typically, this was done on slow, old steel-framed bikes and required a high degree of patience and fitness.

Nowadays, with recent improvements in electric bicycle (eBike) technology, a new wave of touring eBikes has emerged.

What Are Electric Touring Bicycles?

E-Touring bikes can take you to desired locations with way smaller effort. Like any other electric bike, a touring/trekking eBike features a rechargeable battery and an electric motor connected to the rear hub or crankset.

Best Touring Bikes in 2024 for Multi-Day Cycle Adventures

While many touring bike purists might balk at the idea of having electrical assistance, for some people it’s a necessity due to injury, old age, or poor fitness.

In most cases, the electric motor doesn’t fully propel the bicycle like on a motorbike but rather provides pedal assistance, making it easier to pedal and taking pressure off the knees.

In the case of touring, where heavy loads are usually involved, or long century rides , this little bit of assistance can make a huge difference.

They may not be the best choice for long cycling expeditions, such as riding the Cairo to Cape Town route , but they are handy for shorter adventures.

Best Electric Touring Bikes in 2024

#1 santa cruz skitch cc apex.

A class 3 e-bike for gravel riding and touring

Price: $6,300

The Santa Cruz Skitch is a mid-drive electric bike that saddles the gap between gravel and touring.

The combination of 45 mm tires, stable geometry, and common touring features like fender and bottle mounts give this bike its versatile capability.

With speeds of up to 28 mph, it’s the perfect touring eBike for the more adventurous riders out there. If you are looking for the best electric bike for camping and long-distance touring, the rigid-frame Santa Cruz Skitch might be the answer to your needs.

The Skitch boasts a lightweight Fazua Ride 60 motor combined with a 430 Wh battery that provides a 60-mile average range. 

Schwalbe G-One 700c x 45 mm tires

Wide, treaded tires like these give the Skitch an off-road capability that exceeds most other touring eBikes. It is considerably more comfortable on rough surfaces and super efficient over long distances. Schwalbe tires are famous in off-road biking for their durable qualities and high performance. 

Carbon frame

The Current features a carbon frame with internal cable routing for a clean appearance and better protection. The fork is built from the same durable material and has thru-axles. The integrated 430 Wh battery conceals neatly into the downtube and contributes to the clean look.

SRAM Apex Eagle 12-speed

The wide-range SRAM Apex Eagle 12-speed is geared towards long-distance and loaded touring, providing easy pedaling on most gradients. As a gravel-focused gearset, it provides smooth, reliable shifting without locking up or dropping out. 

SRAM Apex hydraulic brakes

A popular choice amongst all manufacturers, the ever-reliable SRAM Apex hydraulic brakes won’t let you down, come rain or shine. With 160mm rotors, they stop with excellent power and reliability. 

Buy on MikesBikes.com

#2 Cannondale – Treadwell Neo 2 EQ

Best electric bike for short tours and commutes

Price: $2,175

The Cannondale Treadwell Neo 2 EQ is an electric bike with a frame perfectly suited to touring. With thick-treaded 47mm tires, this bike is clearly intended for mixed-terrain riding.

250W Hydrive MRC-250

The 250W Hydrive MRC-250 motor is situated at the rear hub, providing 40Nm of torque into the drivetrain while you pedal. As a Class 1 pedal-assist motor, it can take you up to 20 mph, making it ideal as a light touring bike.

250Wh lithium-ion battery

The modest 250Wh battery will provide up to 47 miles of pedal-assist power on a single charge. Pop the battery on charge and it will be full in five hours. This battery makes the Treadwell an excellent commuter or light electric touring bike.

Aluminum frame

Unlike most standard bicycle frames, touring bikes and electric bikes require a more robust design built from stronger materials. The Cannondale Treadwell Neo 2 EQ is formed from SmartForm C3 Alloy with a tapered head tube and internal cable routing. 

Hydraulic disc brakes

Any experienced cycle tourist will tell you that decent brakes are a necessity not to be overlooked. When hurtling down a steep descent packed with all your life’s possessions, the last thing you need is your brakes failing you. Tektro’s HD-R280 hydraulic disc brakes are a tried and tested staple in the eBike industry, trusted by thousands of manufacturers for their consistent reliability. 

Buy on REI.com

#3 Gazelle – Ultimate C380 Plus

Women’s electric commuter bike for touring

Price: $4,749

The Gazelle Ultimate C380 Plus is an electric city bike with a difference – it uses a Gates belt drive system, which means no chains, no cogs, no grease, and extremely low maintenance. For bicycle touring, this is a great addition as it means far less hassle, fewer cleaning requirements, and less chance of breakdowns.

Bike weight: 54.6 lbs

Weighing in at a moderate 54.6lbs, the Gazelle Ultimate C380 is lighter than it looks. Despite a long-range battery and powerful motor, Gazelle manages to keep things light with an aluminum frame.

500 Wh, 13.4 Ah battery

The 500Wh battery balances a fine line between weight saving and capacity, providing power for up to 70 miles on Eco mode. If you need a bit more punch, it also has Tour, Sport, and Turbo mode.

Motor: Bosch Active Line Plus 3.0 (50Nm)

The Bosch Performance Line 3.0 mid-drive motor pushes out 65Nm of torque, slightly more than the standard found on most Class 1 eBikes. This gives the Gazelle a bit of edge over the competition, especially when climbing hills fully laden with luggage.

28″ wheels

Another unique feature of the Gazelle Ultimate C8 is the 28″ wheels, an uncommon size description in the cycle touring community. This size measures the same as 700c or 29″ wheels. They’re wrapped in Schwalbe’s eBike specific Energizer Plus puncture-resistant tires.

Buy from Mike's Bikes

#4 Trek Allant+ 7

Best city touring e-bike

Price: $3,800

The Trek Allant+ 7 is no ordinary eBike – equipped with everything you need for city riding or bike touring, you can just charge it, start riding, and get anywhere you need to be. If you plan on touring on roads and light gravel roads, the Allant+ 7 e-bike will get you there and then some.

The 250W Bosch Performance CX mid-drive motor delivers huge power and combines with a 500 Wh battery that lasts up to around 80 miles. Y ou can pull your luggage easily on this bike as it comes with a sturdy rear rack.

Naturally, you’re going to need some serious stopping power on an ebike designed for touring long distances, which is why the Trek Allant+ 7 comes with hydraulic disc brakes. These brakes won’t let you down come rain or shine.

Trek has also included a reliable 9-speed Shimano Alivio drivetrain, fenders, and front and rear lights to round out the build.

Buy from Trek Bikes

#5 Quietkat – Ranger

Off-road touring bike with an integrated rack and huge power

MSRP: $3,499

The Ranger e-bike by Quietkat is a highly versatile bike built for long-haul adventuring off-road and everything you need for commuting.

Each of the components has been carefully selected to ensure a high-quality ride experience on harsh terrain along with comfort and power over long distances.

Aluminum 6061 Frame

QuietKat frames are built using 6061 aluminum alloy. Due to rigorous testing, this frame perfectly balances strength and stiffness with high-end durability while keeping costs down.

750W or 1000W Geared Hub Motor

This motor delivers tons of power and torque to make hill climbing and pulling a full payload seem easy. This type of motor is the best you can get before upgrading to mid-drive motors.

614Wh Battery

The Ranger uses a medium-size battery to deliver max ranges of around 48 miles on one charge. This battery could be a little bigger to support longer days spent touring. 

7-Speed Drivetrain

This bike has a reliable SRAM drivetrain which allows you to maximize your battery and get the longest range possible by having enough gear options for uphill and downhill riding. It also has fast and accurate shifting.

Tektro Mechanical Brakes

Riders of the Ranger can have trust in the powerful 203mm rotor mechanical disc brakes by renowned manufacturer Tektro. This system provides smooth braking with a very fast response time, rapid heat dissipation, and automatic motor power-off function upon braking. This significantly reduces braking distance.

Buy from Quietkat.com

#6 Benno – RemiDemi 10D Sport

Price: $3,699

The Benno RemiDemi 9D Sport is a cargo electric bike that would make a solid eTouring option for those who want to carry huge loads over diverse terrains. This is a quality bike throughout, from the Bosch Performance Sport motor to the 3.6″ fat tires.

Coming in at 65lbs, the Benno RemiDemi is by no means the lightest bike on the market but feels comfortable as a touring eBike. This sturdy build is necessary to support the huge payload capacity of 400lbs.

The aluminum frame uses a convenient step-thru design for easy mounting without sacrificing strength and rigidity. The shock-absorbent characteristics of the aluminum provide extra comfort and durability. 

The RemiDemi 9D Sport is capable on roads or off-road terrains with huge fat tires. These tires provide plenty of comfort, traction, and durability on any surface you encounter, including snow, sand, and mud. 

As a class 3 pedal-assist bike, the 250W Bosch Performance Sport motor is limited to a maximum speed of 28mph. This is supported by a 400Wh Bosch battery and a Shimano Sora 9-speed drivetrain. 

#7 Lectric ONE

PRICE: $1,999 – 2,199

The Lectric ONE isn’t officially an eTouring Bike, but it provides an affordable alternative with the capability to transform into a touring bike.

It’s supported by an aluminum alloy frame and powered by a 750W rear hub motor and a 500Wh or 672 Wh battery, making it ideal for medium to long-distance tours.

The Lectric ONE is impressive because it features a Pinion C1.6i smart shifting gearbox that changes gears automatically, as well as a Gates Carbon Belt drive. All of that for just $2,000.

This electric bike has a strong aluminum alloy frame. The frame comes in one size only that fits riders between 5’2” – 6’4” tall, though the handlebar position is adjustable, so you can easily find the right riding position.

Hydraulic disc brakes are another excellent addition to such a well-priced bike. They provide solid stopping power in any weather conditions, which is a necessity on an electric touring bike.

Buy on Lectricebikes.com

#8 Tern – GSD S10

Price: $5,399

The Tern GSD S10 is an electric bike built for hauling large cargo loads on long-distance rides across varied terrain. Loaded with a long rear rack, fenders, and lights, it’s perfect for adventures.

 Aluminum alloy frame and 70mm suspension fork

The solid frame is built from aluminum alloy, the perfect combination of strength, responsiveness, and comfort without adding extra costs. You also get a 70mm travel fork for smoothing out bumps on the road and light trails.

Shimano Deore 10-speed

Gearing consists of Shimano’s Deore drivetrain with a 10-speed cassette. This setup offers a wide range of gears, but with help from the Bosch Cargo Line 85Nm motor, you’ll hardly need them.

Magura MT5 Hydraulic discs

To complete the groupset, you also get Magura MT5 hydraulic disc brakes. These brakes will ensure you won’t have any trouble stopping even in wet weather.

Bosch 85Nm motor

The Bosch Cargo Line 85Nm motor is one of the most powerful you’ll find in the 250W category. It’s well-known for being tough and durable. With 85Nm of torque, it performs adequately on steep ascents and will power you along at up to 20mph on flats.

Buy from REI.com     Buy from TernBicycles.com

What defines an electric touring bicycle?

Long-distance electric bike = E-Touring Bike? – Not true. Long-distance eBikes are generally bicycled with an estimated range of 60mi and over. Touring bikes on the other hand are characterized by the accessibility to add racks and panniers to the bike. Therefore, a long-range electric bicycle can also be an electric road bike .

Technically, there is no specific set of conditions required to call a bicycle a touring bike. Although some manufacturers make touring-specific bikes, any bike that somebody chooses to tour on is, by default, a touring bike. However, there are certain features that you will commonly find on most touring bikes that make them comfortable and strong enough for long-distance riding.

For extra strength, many touring cyclists choose a steel frame with lots of mount points and a comfortable upright seating position. These are usually similar to road bike frames although some bikepacking bikes use MTB style frames. For steep hill climbs and strong stopping power on descents, touring bikes usually have a wide gear range and powerful disc brakes. Handlebars can either be dropped or straight but the more hand positions the better.

Other common extras include pannier racks, mudguards, lights, dynamos, and thick puncture-resistant tires.

Are gravel eBikes the same as e-touring bikes?

Gravel bikes are closely related to touring bikes but lack the comfort factor that one would expect from a touring bike.

Gravel vs. Cyclocross vs. Touring Bikes — Differences Explained

Are touring bikes good for commuting.

Many people use commuting bikes for touring and vice versa since they usually have many of the same qualities. If you already own a touring bike, it would make an ideal commuter since it’s strong, comfortable, and likely has the racks, mudguards, and lights. However, it wouldn’t make sense to buy a touring bike specifically for commuting as they are usually more expensive than regular commuter bikes.

EBike Classifications – Throttle vs Pedal-Assist

Electric bikes are classified into three classes

• Class 1 eBike – Pedal-assisted electric bikes. Motor limited up to 750W, speed to 20mph.
• Class 2 eBike – Electric bikes with a throttle. Motor power limited up to 750W, max assisted speed of 20mph.
• Class 3 eBike – Pedal-assisted, and optional throttle options available. Motor power limited to 750W, speed limited to 28mph.
• Class 4 eBike – An electric bike with pedals. Either the motor power is 750W or over, or the assisted speed exceeds 28mph.

Is it worth buying an eBike?

For many people with injured or weak knees, an eBike is the only option if they wish to keep cycling. In this sense, eBikes are certainly worth it for people who may not be able to continue cycling otherwise.

In recent years, eBikes have dropped in price drastically due to improvements in technology. Additionally, they now benefit from longer-life batteries, lighter frames, and stronger motors. For this reason, modern eBikes offer excellent value for money as they are long-lasting, durable, and affordable. 

Do electric bikes charge when you pedal?

No, despite a widespread belief that they do, electric bikes don’t actually charge while you pedal. The resistance required in the pedals to create enough charge would negate any additional benefit provided by the motor.

However, some electric bikes do have regenerative braking which uses continuous forward motion when braking to feed charge back into the battery. With this system, you could feed quite a lot of energy back into the battery if you were going down a long descent.

How long does the battery last on an electric bike?

The batteries on electric bikes vary greatly between models and the length they last depend on how hard and how frequently you pedal. Most batteries will take you between 40-60 miles (64-96 km) on a single charge – enough to last a whole day riding.

Batteries will need to be replaced after a few thousand cycles (recharges) depending on the type of battery. Lithium batteries are the best, with up to 1000 cycles, with nickel and lead batteries giving only half that or less.

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About the Author

Mark Hartley

2 thoughts on “ best electric touring bikes for your next adventure ”.

Trust me when I say that if you want to do extended rides on an ebike… touring, bike camping, weekenders, carrying enough gear to be comfortable, consecutive century rides, etc., you want more than 2, 3, or even 400W motors. The second thing you want is a Rohloff Speedhub so you can actually use all the gears with that additional power and not shred the gears and chain. Mid-drives love a nice clean straight chain line. For anyone that is going to carry panniers the racks (plural – a front rack is more important than the rear) need to be able to easily handle 40+ lbs. and be durable over years of riding. It’s not difficult to ride a eTouring setup with 80 to 150 lbs. of gear on the frame and another 80 to 100 lbs. in a trailer… at least when you have a “proper” motor (750 to 1000W). All the things that go into making a superior eTouring bike combine to make the best possible all-around daily commuter, grocery-getter, ride to get your Covid shot, take the pet to the vet ebike.

When you own an ebike you will find that you not only ride further but more often, even daily after you see how much you enjoy it. With that increased usage comes necessary maintainance, by a quality mech and by you. There is also a learning curve on getting the most out of the batteries and why a single large (2000+Wh) battery is better than 2 or even 3 smaller packs. You can buy a POS ebike on Amazon for $1K dollars but if you want to ride an ebike and not just own an ebike it’s best to remember that you get what you pay for.

The caveat here is “Best… to order online”, if you want to actually bike tour on an ebike not one of these bikes comes close.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27

25 Jul 20 – Mowich Lake https://www.relive.cc/view/v8qkd2LGdKv https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRSTYZ8UjzdpuQ7n8

26 Jul 20 – Rain Forest trail https://www.relive.cc/view/vQvyDGe2W4q https://photos.app.goo.gl/WcoVAreB4TUdAiPF7 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwwdaVg4Y5M https://prnt.sc/tsxt5p

Everyone stay safe.

Got a wild hair up my… about trekking across the US on an ebike. Doing a lot of research. In your opinion, if not any of these bikes, what ebike would you suggest? What do you ride?

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Best bike bags and boxes for cycling travel 2024

Protect your bike and reduce stress when you travel with one of these best bike bags and boxes

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Best bike bags and boxes 2024

The list in brief ↴ 1. Best overall 2. Easy to use 3 . Best value 4. Most portable 5. Most versatile 6. Most robust

Advice How we test

Riding new roads and exploring different places bathed in warm sunshine is one of the great joys of cycling, but getting you and your bike there safely can be the most stressful part of a cycling holiday . Some riders choose to hire a bike whilst on holiday, but for others, part of the attraction is the opportunity to ride their familiar bike up famous climbs or through beautiful landscapes - no one wants a week of cycling spoiled by an ill-fitting bike or uncomfortable saddle.

If you decide to fly with your own bike, then you have the choice of using a hard box or a soft bag, each with pros and cons which we will investigate below. If you choose to drive to your destination instead, however, you can read our guides to the best bike racks for cars  and the  best caravan and motorhome bike racks .

Best overall

The AeroComfort's soft exterior houses a metal structure to which you fasten your frame so it's held securely. There is very little disassembly required and as the bag is pretty light there is plenty of potential to pack extra kit inside and still be within your airline's limits.

Read more below

Best for ease of use

As the Evoc Bike Bag is soft, it's light and easy to store when not in use. There is plenty of padding provided to protect your bike when it's in the bag, and the large side opening makes it simple to put the bike in place.

Best value 

Very light and compact, LifeLine's EVA Bike Pod also offers excellent value for money. Its semi-rigid design offers more protection than a soft bag but they are still quite flexible and as it only has two wheels it can be a little awkward to manoeuvre around an airport.

Most portable

Another light option, the Orucase B2 even includes rucksack-style straps which are handy if you have packed very light. There is a fair bit of disassembly required though and it can feel a bit lopsided when wheeling it around.

Best with integrated stand

Thule's RoundTrip Pro XT bike bag uses an internal frame that can also double as a workstand whilst on holiday, which is very handy. It's more of a reinforced bag than a hard case though and as such is quite pricey.

Most robust

One of the heavier boxes available, the VeloVault2 provides very reassuring protection for your bike. Its quality construction and overall sturdiness will ensure that your lightweight carbon frame should emerge unscathed, but there might not be much weight allowance left once this gets on the scales.

Best bike bags and boxes for cycling travel: Our picks

Scicon Aerocomfort 3.0 Bike Bag

1. Scicon AeroComfort 3.0 Road Bike Travel Bag

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The AeroComfort 3.0 from Scicon is a firm favorite among the Cycling Weekly tech team. We've flown test bikes all over the world, and we like to use this carry case because it makes travelling by bike easy, hassle-free and incredibly quick. It takes just 15 minutes to pack the bike away, and even less time to put it back together.

How so? The outside is a soft, fabric bag, but inside you'll find a metal structure. You simply remove the wheels, loop your chain over a specially designed T-bar and use your quick releases to stand the bike on the metal frame, so it's immovable inside and thus a lot more secure. It couldn't be easier.

There's no need to remove anything aside from the wheels, the handlebars stay straight and don't need twisting. This does make the front end quite bulky, but we found that the protection is good, with a thick soft fabric, designated pockets for wheels, helmets and shoes, and most importantly the rear derailleur is kept off the ground. 

Read more: Scicon Aerocomfort 3.0 Road Bike Travel Bag full review

Evoc bike travel bag

2. Evoc Bike Travel Bike Bag

Whilst hard cases give the ultimate reassurance that your bike is well protected, they also take up a lot of room when out of use, and, they're heavy - limiting your ability to pack kit alongside your bike and stay within airline limits.

Enter soft cases, and this Evoc bike bag is an excellent option. Yes, it offers less protection - but the Cycling Weekly team has used it to transport press bikes on plenty of occasions (NB, we once even used a cardboard box for a personal bike, the theory is that baggage handlers will be more careful!).

This Evoc Bike bag excels in terms of ease of use, too. The side opening makes getting the bike in a cinch, and the handy Velcro makes getting the parts in the right place a piece of cake. The newer model reviewed here now has a reinforced front zip, meaning it should last longer.

Read more: Evoc bike travel bike bag full review

LifeLine EVA Bike Pod

3. LifeLine EVA Bike Pod

Although it's a reasonably compact bike box, the LifeLine Bike Pod will take a smaller-sized bike without too much disassembly. It rolls on two rear wheels, with two front feet to stand on. Quick-release wheels, although not wheels with thru-axles, can be secured to the outside of the case.

Our tester found that the LifeLine Bike Pod is relatively easy to move around, although since you have to lift the front end and the carrying handle doesn't let you wrap your hand through it, longer carries can be tiring. 

The sides of the bag are quite flexible, so it would be advisable to wrap wheels and frame well inside to prevent crushing. We were also concerned about how robust the feet would be and how well the zip would stand repeated use, but overall, the LifeLine Bike Pod is a relatively inexpensive option for the less frequent flyer.

Read more: LifeLine EVA Bike Pod full review

Orucase B2 Bike Travel Case

4. Orucase B2 Bike Travel Case

We've taken the B2 bike case on several domestic and international flights and were left impressed. It sports many welcomed features, including backpack straps and a rollable chassis. Combined with its compact, space-saving size it makes for a sleek, highly portable and trustworthy bag that we think is a great option if space is limited or you'll be traveling on serval modes of transport during your trip.

We did find that it's not the easiest to pack, and required some disassembling of your bike - so you'll need to be confident of putting your bike back together once you've arrived. It's also far from cheap, but in our opinion, it's likely a worthy investment given the ease of portability and the posibbility to save on extra fees due to its smaller size.

Read more: Orucase B2 Bike Travel Case full review

Most versatile

Thule Round Trip Pro XT bike bag

5. Thule RoundTrip Pro XT Bike Bag

The Thule RoundTrip Pro XT falls into the not-quite-a-bike-bag category. It's a softshell but has some structural implants that should keep your bike safe through the worst of it.

However, the bag does have some weak areas and for the price you pay this doesn't induce confidence. But, maybe we're being picky. This is a solid purchase, undoubtedly, and we always add extra bubble wrap around our frames, whatever we're packing them into.

The base, which holds the bike static in the case, can have three legs added, transforming it into a workstand for when you get to your destination - which is a rather 'nice to have' too.

Read more: Thule RoundTrip Pro XT review

Blue Velovault2 bike box

6. VeloVault2 bike box

We really liked the VeloVault2 bike box when we had it in for test. It's big and robust, which is what many cyclists need to achieve peace of mind when flying with a bike.

However, weighing in at 12.5kg means it should sneak under most airline weight controls. The company has sweated the small stuff, too: the clasps are quality, it's easy to close and it rolls well.

VeloVault2 bike box has a new carrying handle, longer wheelbase, improved strut design and it is roof box ready. Oh, and it's now bright blue... other colours are available if that's not to your liking.

Read more: VeloVault2 full review

How do I pack a bike into a bike bag or box?

Packing the bike into the bag or box sometimes takes quite a bit more effort than expected. The process may differ slightly depending on the specific box or bag, but the general process goes something like:

- Remove the pedals - Partially deflate tires and remove the wheels - Remove the seatpost and saddle - Remove the handlebar from the stem or remove the handlebar and stem together from the steerer - Undo rear derailleur (but leave it on the chain) - Secure the frame and components in the box via the manufacturer-approved method - Pack the tools required to rebuild the bike!

There are a few more mechanical adjustments you might make, and if you’re handy with a spanner they shouldn't cause too much grief. For example, you might have to remove the chainset. This will keep it protected en route but it’s worth bearing in mind that you’ll have to reassemble it when you arrive on your hols, so if you're no spanner wizard it might be best to avoid this. It may also mean packing extra tools, which means extra weight to carry around.

Best bike bags vs best bike boxes: which is better?

You might think this is an easy question: it's surely a box, right? However, that's probably before you’ve taken weight into consideration.

A lighter weight bike bag influences two things: how comfortable it is to carry and lug about but also how much of your baggage allowance it eats into - and how much the baggage supplement might be.

The trade off is in the level of protection: a hard flight case like box is going to take the knocks better than a soft bag. That said, soft bike bags will usually protect your bike from the worst of it and they also tend to be cheaper than bike boxes.

There is an in between option. The best bike bags tend to have some more structural inserts inside but retain more of a bag's lightweight nature. Other bike bags can have nifty, in-built storage techniques. For example, some have built-in dropouts that allow you to stand your frame upright and hold it tight.

Do I need to add extra padding to my bike bag?

Regardless of how tough your bag or box might be, you’ll definitely want to pad the important parts inside it. We’d recommend bubble wrap and foam piping. If you’re lucky, your local bike shop might have excess from all the bikes they get sent in. Don't forget to put it around the frame in places where other items in the box might rub against it.

Riding in the mountains

A good bike box or bag has to tread the line between providing the best protection for your bike and yet still being light, easy to carry and simple to pack. These boxes have been used to carry various bikes on multiple flights, being packed and unpacked several times each. They all protected the bikes from any transport damage and none were particularly difficult or awkward to pack but each has its advantages and disadvantages that may clinch the deal for you.

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Simon Smythe is a hugely experienced cycling tech writer, who has been writing for Cycling Weekly since 2003. Until recently he was our senior tech writer. In his cycling career Simon has mostly focused on time trialling with a national medal, a few open wins and his club's 30-mile record in his palmares. These days he spends most of his time testing road bikes, or on a tandem doing the school run with his younger son.

'I suspect that you can divide cyclists into personality types around coffee', muses columnist Dr Hutch

By Michael Hutchinson Published 21 April 24

State Bicycle Co. announced today a Bob Marley collaboration that features Marley-themed bikes, frame bags, top caps and apparel.

By Kristin Jenny Published 20 April 24

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10 Great Motorcycles for Travel 2023

No matter how you like to explore, there is an ideal bike for you.

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Best Budget Mountain Bikes of 2024

A top-of-the-line mountain bike can cost nearly as much as an inexpensive car. Fortunately, there are also plenty of reliable, enjoyable mountain bikes that cost many thousands of dollars less. If you’re looking to hit the trail on a bike that’s responsive, sturdy, and won’t leave you with sticker shock, read on. We've identified excellent yet affordable mountain bikes that will have you clearing jumps, stomping landings, and riding steady even over gnarly terrain.

To help you find an affordable mountain bike that will fit your budget and your riding style, we did plenty of research, drew on first-hand cycling experience, and consulted with cycling professionals to curate this list of the best budget mountain bikes available today.

Table of Contents

• Best Budget Mountain Bikes
• Things To Consider When Buying
• How We Chose

Cannondale Habit HT 2 Mountain Bike  »

Smooth and responsive ride

130 mm fork travel

Relatively lightweight

Pedals sold separately

The Cannondale Habit HT 2 Mountain Bike is hardly cheap, but it costs a fraction of the price of top-of-the-line mountain bikes while performing competitively against them. It weighs less than 30 pounds thanks to its carbon alloy frame, and it has front suspension forks with a generous 130 millimeters of travel, so even when you come crashing down on solid rock after decent air, you don’t feel like your arms are going to snap. This 10-speed bike shifts gears smoothly, and it stops fast thanks to the SRAM Level hydraulic disc brakes.

The separately sold pedals add to the upfront cost, but the Cannondale Habit HT 2 is the kind of bike you don’t replace; rather, it’s one you will maintain, repair, and upgrade for years to come. Thus, even as your riding level advances, you won’t need a newer, better bike, you’ll just enhance the bike you are already enjoying.

Mongoose Flatrock Hardtail Mountain Bike  »

Great low price

Mechanical disc brakes

Available in multiple sizes

Stubborn front derailleur

Many units arrive with cosmetic damage

Even in the larger category of budget mountain bikes, the Mongoose Flatrock Hardtail Mountain Bike is surprisingly affordable for a bike that garners mostly five-star reviews from its owners. It has many features you would not expect to see in a bike that costs less than $300, like disc brakes and a durable suspension system. The 21-speed bike offers plenty of power control whether you are cruising on flat land, flying downhill, or working to gain elevation, and those brakes will slow or stop you with precision.

To get the most out of all those 21 speeds, you may need to get your new Mongoose Flatrock Hardtail serviced by a pro; the front derailleur can be very stubborn, often refusing to shift from one gear to the next. Many customers of this affordable mountain bike report it arriving with some scratches and scuffs, but that’s going to happen in no time out there in the woods anyway. If you're looking for a true entry-level mountain bike that will be plenty of fun as you take to the trail, this is a great choice.

Santa Cruz Bicycles Chameleon MX D Mountain Bike  »

Excellent ground connection feel

Generous suspension fork travel

Lifetime warranty on frame

Pedals not included

A solidly built and tightly-tuned mountain bike, the Chameleon MX D lets you feel the ground beneath you, helping you maintain maximum control at maximum speed. Yet the 130 millimeters of suspension fork travel and the sturdy hardtail design absorb plenty of vibration and impact.

As is the case with many bikes in this gray area between budget and high-end, this bike doesn't ship with pedals, so be sure to buy those separately. What it does come with is a responsive 12-speed SRAM Eagle drivetrain that has gears well-balanced for ideal speed control and lactic acid conservation. Revised eight times and counting, the Santa Cruz Bicycles Chameleon MX D is a mountain bike that’s well worth the investment – look no further than the limited lifetime warranty the manufacturer puts on the frame as evidence of that.

Schwinn Traxion Mountain Bike  »

Multiple gears offer excellent control

Full suspension

Needs extensive tuning before first ride

The 24-speed Schwinn Traxion Mountain Bike offers a huge range of control over the gearing that's adeptly managed by Shimano shifters. In first gear, your legs will be spinning fast and easy as you claw your way up steep hills. In 24th gear, you’ll be whipping along over flat trails or positively flying on downhill runs. The mechanical disc brakes are surprisingly good, so you’ll still be able to slow or stop yourself with ease. And the 2.25-inch wide tires that come with the bike have a deep, aggressive tread pattern that bites into sand, mud, and other tricky terrain.

Unless you’re pretty handy with bikes, you'll likely need a pro to dial in this bike for you when it’s new because the shifters and brakes are often out of tune when the bike arrives. It's also quite heavy, which only makes the ease of pedaling in the lower gears more welcome. But on the trail, the Traxion is stable and reliable, with the front forks and midframe suspension features absorbing plenty of impact.

Cannondale Trail 6 Mountain Bike  »

Easy to ride

Frame absorbs shock

Multiple different frame sizes available

Sluggish on the uphill

Some units ship with no-name parts

If you’re new to mountain biking but confident you’re going to love it, the Cannondale Trail 6 Mountain Bike is a well-made, easy-to-ride mountain bike that you will still be enjoying a few years into your new hobby. Available in five different frame sizes, this bike can be tailored for riders of almost any height. It has a responsive 16-gear system with Shimano derailleurs and tight, reliable Tektro M275 hydraulic disc brakes. Note that some customers have reported getting bikes with no-name components, so check your bike when it arrives and contact the seller if that happens.

The frame is made with a proprietary carbon SmartForm C3 Alloy that ensures the bike is strong yet it’s also relatively flexible, absorbing the bumps and rumbling caused by mountain biking terrain and keeping you more comfortable and stable. The bike’s heavy wheels make it a bit lumbering as you ride uphill, but it still handles easily enough. Its price point is solid considering all the good there is to say about this bike; while hardly cheap, it’s still a great choice for novices who want to give themselves an edge while learning.

Co-op Cycles DRT 1.1 Mountain Bike  »

Solid on trail or pavement

Smooth gear shifting

Fair price point

Chain sometimes falls loose

Frame runs small

The Co-op Cycles DRT 1.1 Mountain Bike is almost as at home on paved roads or sidewalks as it is on mountain trails. The included tires are 2.1 inches wide, which is narrower than you’ll find on most mountain bikes and suited well to hard surfaces, yet that’s still plenty of surface area for dirt, sand, mud, and grass. It has smooth, responsive gears and reliable hydraulic disc brakes, and the suspension forks offer a decent 100 millimeters of travel that’s sufficient for moderate off-road terrain and plenty for paved surfaces.

At just under $600, this is a fairly priced budget mountain bike that's more like a hybrid mountain-road bicycle. The frame is on the heavier side if you primarily ride on pavement. The frame also runs small, so taller cyclists might want to go with something else. But the DRT 1.1 can accommodate riders weighing up to 300 pounds and it has 21 speeds, so you can adjust the pressure needed to suit the conditions and your comfort level.

The Bottom Line

The Cannondale Habit HT 2 Mountain Bike is our pick for the best budget mountain bike overall because it costs a quarter of what you might pay for a high-end mountain bike, yet it performs as well as options priced well over $5,000. It has responsive shifters and suspension forks with a sweet spot of 130 millimeters of travel, and it’s relatively lightweight. One of the other budget mountain bikes we covered may be your best choice, though, based on cost, use case, or unique features, so consider each one closely.

Things To Consider When Buying Budget Mountain Bikes

Bike Frame Material and Weight: A mountain bike’s frame material is about much more than weight alone, though that is a factor when it comes to material. These days, most mountain bikes are made out of carbon or aluminum – steel and titanium, once common, are more rarely seen, the former being simply too heavy, the latter just too pricey. Carbon frames are lighter in weight and better absorb the impacts of the trail, transferring less of the jarring off rocks and roots to your body. That said, carbon is more expensive than aluminum, which is a bit heavier and stiffer, but it can make for a much more affordable bike.

Frame Dimensions: Your bike frame has to fit your body properly or you won’t have as much fun or be as safe as you should while out there on the trails. To determine the correct frame size, factoring in an inch or two of height adjustment to the seat, you need to measure your inseam all the way to the ground, not just to below the ankle as you would for pants. Measure from a contact point beneath your groin straight to the floor. Inseams between 28 inches and 31 inches should opt for a frame that measures 15.5 inches. For an inseam between 30 and 32 inches, a 17.5-inch frame will work. And for 33 to 35-inch inseams, pick a 19.5-inch frame.

Suspension Features: Any bike that you’ll be riding on rough terrain and on which you may be catching some air needs to have front suspension forks. These will dramatically reduce the force of impact as you ride, ensuring your experience is better under control, more comfortable, and safer. As for a full suspension mountain bike, where the seat also has a moving cylinder, that’s less essential, especially at a more amateur riding level. “A hard tail requires far less suspension maintenance and is a great platform to jump onto [when you’re] a beginner rider,” says competitive cyclist Jeff Block.

Gear System: The more speeds a bike has, speeds being the different combinations of gears you can create to enhance or reduce the difficulty and output efficiency of your pedaling, the more you can fine-tune your ride to suit the terrain, your athleticism, and your fatigue at any given moment. But don’t get too caught up in the number of gears, not when the type of shifter and derailleur also matter. The former is the hardware your hand operates to change gears, and the latter is the device that physically shifts the bike’s chain to another gear. Look for derailleurs from brands like Shimano, SRAM, and microSHIFT for high-quality options.

Brake Type: These days, disc brakes are far and away the most popular braking systems on mountain bikes, hybrids, and road bikes alike. Though V brakes and cantilever brakes wherein the wheel of the bike itself is squeezed are still seen in new bikes (usually lower-cost options), disc brakes are generally more responsive and are the better choice for use during intense rides when precise control is critical.

Price and Value for Money: “The key to a good beginner bike is to not overshoot the mark on getting a World Cup race bike before you even know how to ride,” says Block. If you are an outright beginner when it comes to mountain biking and you are watching your budget, it’s probably a good idea to go with a very low-priced bike, just in case you abandon the hobby. If you buy a mid-range bike and fall in love with mountain biking, you’ll be stuck with a semi-affordable, semi-appropriate bike, whereas if you went very low cost you could now invest more in a higher-end model. If you are a mid-level mountain biker and see yourself staying as a more casual enthusiast, shop in the middle price range.

How We Chose the Best Budget Mountain Bikes

Even a budget mountain bike is still a significant investment, especially if it's one you can customize, maintain, and enjoy for at least several years. We did careful research in choosing which bikes to feature, looking at key factors like suspension, shifting mechanisms, brake types, and fork travel. We also considered the type of terrain to which various mountain bikes were best suited.

In addition, we spoke to mountain biking experts to get their takes on what to look for in a budget mountain bike. These included cycling gear professional Jeff Block , a competitive road cyclist and mountain biker, and outdoor industry professional Eric Hockman, a lifelong mountain biking enthusiast. Both Block and Hockman told us specific brands of mountain bikes they especially like and offered general thoughts to keep in mind when shopping for one that’s affordable.

Contributor Steven John also relied on his own extensive experience as a mountain biker. He then arrived at his final list based on extensive research and a close reading of reviews left by confirmed customers.

WHY YOU SHOULD TRUST US

U.S. News & World Report contributor Steven John is an avid mountain biker. He leaned heavily on his experience and well over a dozen years spent researching, testing, and reviewing outdoor products. Beyond his work with U.S News & World Report, John also writes for New York Magazine, The Daily Beast, Dad Gear Review, Business Insider, Architectural Digest, Forbes, and several other outlets.

Look at the hardware used on the bike as you consider the quality. Does the mountain bike in question have disc brakes or V brakes? Does it have a derailleur from a known brand like Shimano or does it use unnamed hardware? Is the frame made of aluminum, carbon, or an alloy? The aggregate of these and other similar questions will help you assess the overall quality of an affordable mountain bike.

The differences between a high-end and a budget mountain bike will likely not be significant enough for an amateur rider to even notice. Higher-end bikes allow for more precise tuning and they may dampen the impacts of rough trials more, but the real differences will come more in the longevity and customization of the more expensive bike, which will last longer and will allow for more tuning and altering than a basic bicycle.

Ultimately, a higher-end mountain bike is going to offer the level of control an expert rider needs when performing jumps, riding up steep berms, or navigating the toughest downhill singletrack trails. But for the more moderate riding a newer mountain biker is likely to face, a budget mountain bike is just fine. “Good [budget bikes] get any beginner down the most technical trail they might want to ride in their first few years riding a mountain bike,” says Block.

While service needs will vary based on how often you ride your mountain bike, in the scheme of things, the cost of your bike doesn’t much affect the frequency of service needs save that cheaper components on less expensive bikes may break, necessitating repair. In general, plan to check your mountain bike tire treads and sidewalls every three months; check the brakes and clean the drivetrain every six months; and have a professional inspect the frame annually. If you ride quite a bit (as in more than three times a week), shave about a third off of these times, meaning check the tires every two months, the brakes every four, and so on.

About Our Team

Steven John

Contributor

Jeff Kinney

Senior Editor

U.S. News 360 Reviews takes an unbiased approach to our recommendations. When you use our links to buy products, we may earn a commission but that in no way affects our editorial independence.

Every product was carefully curated by an Esquire editor. We may earn a commission from these links.

9 Best Bike Bags for City Commutes and Long-Haul Adventures—Tested and Reviewed

No matter how much gear you have, these can handle it.

This journey wasn't just about racking up miles ; it was an odyssey that put every conceivable type of bike bag to the test, from sleek frame bags that hug the contours of his bike like a 2000s tailored suit to rugged panniers ready for a tumble and still come out looking picture-perfect.

Best Travel Bag for Carrying a Bike

Thule roundtrip road bike travel case.

Best Bike Bag for Commuting

Brompton x bear grylls waterproof backpack.

Best Bag for Bikepacking

Apidura expedition full frame pack.

Best Handlebar Bike Bag

Rapha bar bag.

Best Everyday Bike Bag

Orucase saddle bag.

Best Hydration Bag for Biking

Camelbak m.u.l.e. pro 14.

Best Bike Panniers

Ortlieb back-roller classic panniers.

Best Bag For Bike Tools

Lezyne flow tool caddy pro.

Best Looking Bag for Cycling

Moral code tide vegan backpack.

Through this shared adventure, coupled with an amount of research that could rival a doctoral thesis , I've compiled a list of the crème de la crème of bike bags. Each one is a story of durability, functionality, and sometimes, sheer style because, let's face it, even the most rugged of cyclists doesn't mind a bit of flair. So, whether you're a seasoned pedaler or a casual cruiser, join me on this quest through the best bike bags out there. Oh, and if you need the best bike racks or helmets , we have guides for those too.

This travel bike case is a premier solution for transporting your road, gravel, or cyclocross bike easily and safely during long-haul travels. Its integrated work stand not only guarantees your bike's safe transit but also facilitates hassle-free maintenance and assembly/disassembly. This case promises not just to carry your bike but to protect and maintain it every step of the journey.

Crafted from 100 percent recycled waterproof material, the Brompton x Bear Grylls Backpack is environmentally friendly and resilient against the elements—making it perfect for daily commutes in any weather. Its seamless integration with Brompton bikes, attaching securely with a quick click to the front, enhances the commuting experience by providing a hassle-free way to carry essentials. This collaboration with Bear Grylls aims to inspire adventure in the everyday, blending the functionality of urban cycling with the spirit of exploration.

The Expedition Full Frame Pack from Apidura is the ultimate game-changer in bike packing. Imagine you're gearing up for a long haul and have a load of stuff—think cooking gear, water bladders, tent poles, the whole shebang.

This genius pack slots right into your bike's main triangle, giving you tons of space without messing with your ride, thanks to its clever low center of gravity. It's like the best buddy for adventurers who don't want to leave behind their essentials for those epic trips. The way it's designed, you can load it up and still keep your bike feeling nimble and easy to handle, no matter how challenging the trail gets.

This versatile pack becomes the perfect partner for those trips where you need just a bit more room to pack your essentials. Crafted with waterproof fabric, it keeps your belongings dry if you get caught in a downpour. It snugly attaches to your bike using two solid fixture points and sturdy Hyperlon straps, staying put no matter the terrain.

Plus, the quick-release buckles mean you can snap it off in a flash. Need to be seen when the sun goes down? The reflective webbing is a neat feature that lets you attach lights, keeping you visible and safe. With a 2L main compartment complete with internal mesh pockets and a handy quick access pocket, it's a compact yet mighty addition to your gear. And if the ride calls for versatility, this pack smoothly transitions into an over-the-shoulder bag, thanks to the additional strap.

Ever find yourself needing just the right bag for everyday rides, no matter the terrain or weather? This is your bag. It comes in two sizes, giving you the freedom to carry just the essentials or pack in a bit more for those just-in-case moments, perfect for mountain bikers, road enthusiasts, or gravel grinders alike.

What really sets this saddle bag apart is its rugged, waterproof ripstop fabric. Made from X-PAC material by Dimension-Polyant, it ensures whatever you stash inside stays dry and safe, even when you're powering through a torrential downpour or blasting over muddy trails. Plus, the bag features an integrated Bartacked Hypalon attachment loop, making it super simple to open and close, even when you're on the move.

Heading out for a ride and need to keep hydrated? This bag’s a great pick if you want something light but tough. With its 3D Vent Mesh Harness, it’s super breathable and comfy to carry. There’s also a big three-liter water pouch that lets you drink on the go, and a handy hip belt for your must-haves. Whether it’s a short ride or an all-day adventure, this pack’s ready for anything, even fitting an Impact Protector and an e-bike battery.

These Ortlieb Back-Roller bike panniers are built to withstand whatever the weather throws at you, thanks to their tough coated polyester fabric and roll-top closure that keeps water out.

You won't have to leave anything behind with a 40-liter gear capacity. (That's 20 liters each, for those keeping score.) There's plenty of room for food, extra clothes, toiletries, and other essentials. The QL2.1 mounting system makes attaching these to racks (up to 16 mm tube diameter) a breeze and comes with adapters for smaller sizes too. Plus, there's an inner pocket for smaller items, large reflectors for visibility, and a shoulder strap for easy carrying off the bike.

Sold as a pair, these panniers are praised for their top-notch quality and design, featuring remarkably good latches and overall capacity.

Ever been biking, rummaging through a pile of gear for your tube and tools, feeling the frustration mount? Well, say goodbye to those days with the Lezyne Flow Tool Caddy Pro. This tool bag is a game-changer for cyclists who value organization and convenience. Its sleek, ergonomic design not only fits perfectly in your water bottle cage but also offers easy access and smart storage while you're on the move.

With internal compartments that include a zippered section and a mesh pocket, this caddy ensures your tube, CO2 canisters, and multi-tools are neatly organized and always within reach. And when you're dealing with a flat by the roadside, the full 180-degree zipper opening means you'll have everything you need right at your fingertips, hassle-free.

If you're heading out for quick ride around town and want to do it in style, the Tide backpack is our pick. It's practicality and sleek, making it a top pick for cyclists who appreciate both form and function. With its waterproof capabilities, you won't have to worry about getting caught in a downpour, and its durability means it can handle the rough and tumble of city life.

But what really sets the Tide backpack apart for us is the brand's commitment to style without sacrificing sustainability. It's made from recycled plastic bottles with vegan apple leather accents. The classic flap design gives you easy access to the main compartment, ensuring everything you need is just a zipper away. Plus, with extra pockets, your smaller essentials are always within reach.

What to Look for in a Bike Bag

When diving into the vast sea of bike bags, it's easy to get swept away by the sheer variety and advertised features. However, focusing on a few key factors can help you navigate these waters.

Type of Cycling - For the rugged off-roader, durability and water resistance are your best mates. Urban commuters, on the other hand, might prioritize ease of access and reflective elements for twilight rides.

Capacity and Compartments - Think Mary Poppins' bag, but for cyclists. You want enough space to stash your essentials but with savvy compartments to avoid a chaotic treasure hunt whenever you need your keys.

Attachment systems - A bag that fits snugly and securely on your bike is like a faithful sidekick, ready for any adventure without causing a ruckus.

Material - Look for lightweight yet sturdy fabrics that can handle adverse weather conditions and keep your belongings safe and dry.

Why Trust Esquire?

We don't have all the answers, but we're definitely not slacking on the research front, and we make it a point to chat with the experts. Our circle includes a bunch of recreational cyclists who are always on the move, giving us the lowdown on which bike racks are hitting the mark and which ones are missing it by miles. Toss in our own in-depth research, and you're looking at the best advice on the internet. We're here to guide you through the dizzying array of choices, slicing through the clutter to spotlight bike bags that truly excel in durability, user-friendliness, and versatility.

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First Look at the Viral Wanderer (Sea Otter 2024)

Reporting from the 2024 Sea Otter Classic, we got a first look at a brand new drop-bar adventure bike from Viral Bikes. Read on to find a photo gallery and learn more about the intriguing Viral Wander, a titanium bikepacking rig designed around the Pinion Smart.Shift system…

Former Niner founder and engineer Steve Domahidy has been designing bikes for a long while. After striking out on his own, he designed and released several small batches of carbon and titanium bikes under Domahidy Designs. Later, Steve launched a new brand with a much more focused vision and compelling name. Viral Bikes officially launched in 2016 with its flagship bike, the Skeptic, a titanium all-mountain hardtail designed around the Pinion Gearbox and a Gates carbon drive. Following that model, Viral later introduced the Dérive ( find our review here ), which was dubbed a bikepacking hardtail and had the same Pinion Gates drivetrain. This year, Steve and co. have been particularly busy. Not only did they move operations from Bend, Oregon, to Bentonville, Arkansas, but they’ve fleshed out their latest model for today’s release. Read on to learn more about the Viral Wanderer.

The Wanderer is the brand’s first drop-bar bike and was specifically made for long off-road endeavors and bikepacking rides. It’s built around a 100mm travel mountain bike suspension fork and Boost spacing and, similar to the other two bikes in their lineup, a Pinion gear box and belt drive. More interesting, the Wanderer is built specifically around Smart.Shift, Pinion’s electronically shifted gearbox. I met up with Steve, who shed some light on this. “As soon as we had the Pinion Smart.Shift in our hands, we knew that this would be the next bike to market.” Following suit, TRP released the Hywire, a drop-bar shifter/lever combo designed around Smart.Shift that Steve claims does this drivetrain justice. “There have been a lot of workarounds to making drop bars compatible with the Pinion gearbox, but they’ve all been pretty major compromises, until now,” Steve added. For those worried about batteries, Steve mentioned that Pinion claims a full 10,000 shifts per charge, which makes it a non-issue most rides.

Similar to the Skeptic and Derive, the Viral Wanderer also pushes the boundaries of gravel/adventure geometry. It was designed with a relatively slack 67.5-degree head tube angle and long front center that extends the wheelbase and reach of the Wanderer for more stability and confidence-inspiring descending, whether loaded or not. In addition, the Viral Wander features size-specific geometry with a twist; the seat tube angle changes for each size instead of the chainstay length. “At the end of the day, we have little control over the final chainstay length of a bike. It is what it is when you tension the belt to a specified amount, and you can change that a bit with belt lengths and gear ratios, but now you’re compromising final drive ratio to accomplish a chainstay length. That’s not how we wanted to go about it,” Domahidy said.

Instead, the new Wanderer puts larger riders and smaller riders more forward on the bike. This is achieved with a steeper seat tube angle, which effectively accomplishes the same result as longer chainstays. “Shorter riders benefit from a steeper seat tube angle as it helps improve the front and center geometry, which helps keep toe overlap in check. Taller riders benefit from the same steepening of the seat tube to keep their center of balance more forward and centered over the bike. As you raise the seatpost for taller riders, this moves their center of gravity further and further back which unbalances the ride characteristics. Because we can’t really effectively control the chainstay length, we decided to control center of gravity through seat tube angle.” As you can see in the geometry chart below, Viral switched from a S-XL sizing model to V2-V5, similar to a few other bikes we’ve talked about recently.

Domahidy spent a lot of time refining the geometry of the Wanderer, and he calls the end result sublime. Part of that may be due to the wild-looking and very unique seat cluster, which decouples the top tube from the seat tube and uses a titanium spring plate welded to the seat stays to support the rider. Steve said this offers between 10-20mm of flex to the seat tube, giving the rider even more comfort on the rough stuff. He and his partner have done a bit of bikepacking with the prototype, and he said the rear end remains laterally stiff with a load. We’re super excited to experience this for ourselves.

There are plenty of touring/bikepacking-ready features on the Viral Wanderer. It has five sets of cage mounts in and outside the triangle, including two three-packs. It also has a couple of stray bosses at the front of the triangle to add the potential for a clean bolt-on frame bag. It also has rear rack mounts on the alloy dropouts and the seat stays and internal dynamo cable routing for a rear tail light.

Viral is also co-launching the Wanderer with Industry 9 using their new SOLiX M wheels and a brand new gravel stem. The SOLiX M Ultralite 300 Carbon wheels weigh just 1,385 grams per pair and feature a rim matched to the Wanderer’s 29 x 2.4” tire clearance. The SOLiX M’s 0.59-degree engagement angle is also a nice companion to the Pinion gearbox, adding very play little to the Pinion’s clutch mechanism.

The Wanderer frame kit comes with a frame, the Pinion C1.12i Smart.Shift gearbox, forged cranks, battery, charger, wiring, and a full TRP Hywire brakeset with 180mm rotors front and rear (either 6-bolt or centerlock). It will also come with a Gates CDX cogs and belt, the Pinion cog lock ring tool, and an oil change kit. Note that Pinion recently updated their requirements for servicing the gearbox. It’s now only necessary to change the oil every 6,000 miles, regardless of how long it takes you to get to that mileage.

Pre-orders are available now from Viral Bikes and require a 50% deposit. Folks who order the frame kit will receive the TRP Hywire brakes and shifters for free in addition to being able to select the color anodization for their frame’s logos and stripes. In addition, Viral is offering complete bike for this pre-order special, with components from Industry 9, Crank Brothers, Fizik, and more, which will also be discounted from the normal sale price of the complete bike. Lastly, in collaboration with Tailfin, Viral customers purchasing a frame or complete bike can add any assortment of Tailfin products they might want to attach to their new bikepacking rig.

The pre-order price for the frame kit is $6,490, and the complete starts at $8,500. Learn more about the Wanderer and how to get in on the pre-order action over at Viral.bike .

Further Reading

Make sure to dig into these related articles for more info...

Viral Derive Review: Built to Wander

Viral Skeptic Review + The Pinion P1.12 Gearbox

Pinion Gearbox Review: A True Bike Transmission!

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Men's Health

10 Folding Bikes That Pack Light and Travel Far

Posted: March 5, 2024 | Last updated: March 5, 2024

WE ALL KNOW bikes are great for exercising , commuting to work, and for exploring nature trails. But bikes are often heavy and can take up quite a bit of space—all pretty inconvenient if you’re an apartment dweller or are otherwise short on storage at home. That’s where a folding bikes come in.

The first folding bike designs (which, surprisingly, date back more than a century ago) were clunky, cumbersome, and not especially portable. Today’s best folding bikes, however, are every bit as sleek as the road-friendly bikes most commuters are used to. Many folding bikes come with clever specs, including the use of lightweight materials and quick-release folding mechanisms, in efforts to maximize portability. Folding bikes can pack down small enough to fit in a closet, in the trunk of a sedan, and even under a bed—so the sky is the limit on where you can stash them.

The Best Folding Bikes

How we selected.

Our expert panel of gear experts researched and vetted a handful of folding bike models over the last six months. We also brought in first-hand testing knowledge of folding bikes our editors and writers own. We considered factors like comfort, quality, durability, price, and even the style of folding bikes in our rankings. Our top picks come from a wide range of merchants, from budget-friendly retailers (like Amazon and Walmart) to specialty sellers (like Brompton and Tern). Ahead, our top ten best folding bikes of 2024.

Mariner D8 Folding Bike

Dahon's Mariner D8 is a solid folding bike for anyone looking to upgrade from an entry-level, sub-$500 folder to something a little more substantial without dropping north of $1,500 to get there. The versatile design includes an aluminum frame, an eight-speed drivetrain, and 20-inch wheels, making it well-suited for both commuters and recreational riders.

The folded size is compact enough to stash in a car trunk or closet, and the 27-pound carry weight makes it light enough to carry in hand if needed. Other features we dig include built-in fenders and a rear rack, so you can carry all your gear and stay reasonably dry in the rain. This model is also surprisingly well-priced at just under $1,000 delivered (with free returns through Amazon).

Loop Folding Bike

There's something retro-cool about a Schwinn. The Loop Folding Bike is a versatile, all-around model designed for a wide variety of individuals. The one-size-fits-most design adapts to riders between 4'8" and 6'2", so you can pass it around between your roommates or family members of any size. It checks all our must-have boxes for a best-of folding bike, including a seven-speed twist shifter, front and rear linear pull brakes, and 20-inch wheels built for just about any terrain city dwellers are likely to encounter.

Schwinn also includes useful add-ons like full-wrap fenders, a rear cargo rack, and a heavy-gauge nylon bag for stashing all your favorite gear. It weighs 33 pounds and collapses down to roughly 30" x 30" x 17.5", making it one of the bulkier models in this year's roundup. But it's hard to complain with a price tag of just under $400 delivered. Plus, Amazon buyers score free returns, too, in case it doesn't work out.

C Line Explore Folding Bike

You're probably buying a folding bike for its portability and transportability. Brompton's C Line Explore Folding Bike is as portable and compact as you're likely to find. It packs down to roughly two feet square by one foot thick—no small feat for an entire two-wheeler. That's practically small enough to stash in the overhead compartment of most planes (seriously!). Plus, it weighs just 27 pounds, making it one of the lightest-weight foldable models we've seen this year.

The all-steel frame is dang-near bulletproof and built to ride in seriously wet weather. It's built with Brompton's legendary quality and reliability, so it'll probably outlast you. The brand offers the C Line in a variety of colors, drivetrain setups, handlebar shapes, and even luggage systems, making it one of the most customizable folding bikes of 2024.

Read more: Best Hybrid Bikes

Link C8 Folding Bike

Like Brompton's ultra-compact C Line Explore folder, Tern's Link C8 is another great option for those looking for a portable, space-friendly folding bike. With a folded size of just 16" x 32" x 29" and a carry weight of a little over 28 pounds, it can fit in most small cars and in tight apartment closets.

Once unfolded, it boasts a solid set of specs designed to take you just about anywhere. The lightweight aluminum frame and eight-speed drivetrain make for easy riding on daily commutes or on more extended cross-town trips. We like that Tern includes smart details like Shimano rim brakes, twister-operated shifters, and fenders to keep you dry(-ish) in the rain. The one-size-fits-most design adjusts easily to accommodate riders between 4'8" and 6'3". But the best part? It's available for around $900 delivered.

XP 3.0 Black Long-Range eBike

Lectric offers some of the best budget-friendly electric bikes on the market. The XP 3.0 Long-Range eBike is no exception, with the brand's typical mix of solid construction, clever design, and great feature set. As the name implies, it's purpose-built for long-range riding, thanks to a long-range battery good for up 65 miles. Lectric adds in must-have essentials like mirrors, a phone mount, a bike lock, and a Comfort Package that includes a giant cushy seat and a suspension seat post.

"I've tested most of Lectric's e-bikes, and this is another winner. It's comfortable to ride (especially for a folder) out of the box, and the free Comfort Package makes it even more so," said writer Mike Richard. "I love that it comes almost fully assembled and ready to roll. Plus, at around $1,200 delivered , it's even cheaper than many premium non-electric options." The only real downside? The extended battery setup makes this a heavy-ish option at 64 pounds (including the seven-pound battery).

Liberte Lightweight Folding Bicycle

We get it: For some, every ounce matters. If you're using your folding bike regularly, a featherweight frame makes getting around on the daily so much easier. ZiZZO's Liberte Lightweight Folding Bicycle is the lightest bike worth buying we've seen this year. At around 23 pounds, it weighs about as much as three one-gallon water jugs, making it ridiculously easy to toss around and transport wherever you need it.

Don't let the featherweight construction fool you, though. The aluminum frame is sturdy and reliable, and every other component is too. The eight-speed Shimano drivetrain makes for easy shifting, while the 20-inch wheels are capable enough to tackle most terrain. It also collapses and unfolds easier than most other bikes we tested, allowing you to make quick work of putting it away and getting it ready to ride whenever you need it. Most surprisingly: It's available for less than $500 delivered (with free returns through Amazon!).

Read more: Best E-Bikes

Mars 2.0 Foldable Bike

For anyone who bikes to work or around town on the regular, an electric bike is amazing; and a folding electric bike is all the better. The Mars 2.0 from Hey Bike is one of the best value Class 3 electric folders on the market with a solid bang for your buck. It ticks all of our must-have boxes, including a strong 750-watt rear hub motor (with 1,200 watts of peak power), a 600Wh removable lithium-ion battery, and a top speed of up to 28 miles per hour. Coupled with 20" x 4" fat tires, it's more than equipped to get you around town and for even a little light off-roading after work.

Gear tester and MH writer Mike Richard found the Mars 2.0 to be "surprisingly comfortable to ride, especially for a folding bike. I completely credit the chunky tires and full suspension for that. The motor also feels peppier than most folders in this price range."

Judd Single-Speed Folding Bike

If price matters above all else, a single-speed folder is the best solution. Retrospec's Judd is a straightforward, no-frills option. For budget-conscious buyers, that's a very good thing. The aluminum frame is lightweight and portable, while 20" tires and coaster brakes keep the design dead-simple with everything you need and nothing you don't. That simplicity also makes for extremely low maintenance, allowing you to save more even after you buy.

At roughly 32" x 30" x 10", it isn't the most compact folder in this year's roundup, but those dimensions still ensure it's plenty portable for most riders. On the downside, this model is built strictly for sidewalks and smooth, paved surfaces. It probably goes without saying that this isn't made for off-road use. But, the one thing this folding bike has going for it above its competitors is price. At just under $300, it's one of the most affordable folders worth buying this year.

Folder Folding Bike

We've been fans of Priority bikes for years, so we were stoked to find they finally released a folding model. The aptly named Folder is a handsome, commuter-friendly option that's sleek, simple, and low-maintenance. At its core is a Gates Carbon Drive Belt mated to an internally geared Shimano Nexus 7-speed hub that keeps you riding smooth. The telescoping seatpost and adjustable stem make this another one-size-fits-most model that's easily swappable between riders of different heights.

Unfolded, it measures 60" long by 40" high but is surprisingly compact when collapsed down to its smallest footprint at around 30" x 31" x 16". We especially love the ridiculously simple three-step fold process that takes less than 20 seconds. The 29-pound weight puts it near the middle of the pack among the best folding bikes of the year.

Read more: Best Bike Trainers for Indoor Cycling

SP26S Folding Bike

Most folding bikes are designed for practicality and portability rather than pizazz. The most portable models are usually a little goofy looking with an exaggerated, disproportionate unicycle-esque vibe. Not so with Columba's SP26S that looks more like a traditional two-wheeler than any other model in our roundup. In fact, it's a legit 26-inch goer with "typical" bicycle proportions, making for a more comfortable and capable ride. That's thanks to oversized (by folding bike standards) tires and an 18-speed shifter and derailleur.

On the downside, it's larger than most folding models with a collapsed size of 38" x 14" x 29", so you may want to double-check the dimensions of your closet, car trunk, or apartment storage space to make sure it'll fit. It also tips the scales at a more traditional bike-like 33 pounds, making it one of the heavier options on this list. On the plus side, it folds and unfolds very easily, and the roughly $300 price tag (delivery included) means it's one of the most affordable folding bikes we'd recommend in 2024.

How to Find the Best Folding Bike for You

Like traditional two-wheelers, folding bikes come in all shapes and sizes. While there is no one best folding bike to rule them all, there are a few basic things to consider when shopping for the best folding bike for you .

As with traditional two-wheelers, wheel size matters. For folding bikes, the smaller the wheels, the more compact and portable the bike will be when folded. However, smaller wheels can also make riding over uneven terrain difficult or uncomfortable. The most common tire size for folding bikes is 20 inches, which provides a good balance of transportability and ride comfort. If you're planning to take your new folding bike away from smooth city surfaces, consider a model with fat tires of at least three, ideally four , inches for a more comfy ride.

Although they’re more portable overall, folding bikes are often heavier than comparably sized two-wheelers. If you’ll need to transport your new bike over longer distances (into and out of an office building, for example) or live in a fifth-floor walk-up, you’ll want to ensure you can physically carry it.

Portability

Some folding bikes are more portable than others. If you’re especially size-conscious, consider the folded or collapsed dimensions of any bike you’re shopping for to ensure it’ll fit inside your closet, under your bed, in the trunk of your car, or in whatever compact space you need it to fit.

Electric or Non-electric

Consider whether you want an electric or non-electric model. In the U.S., electric folding bikes are classified as Class 1, Class 2, or Class 3. Class 1 bikes are designed with a motor (maximum 750 watts) that "pedal-assists" your riding up to 20 miles per hour. Class 3 bikes are often equipped with a 750-watt motor but enough juice to take you up to 28 miles per hour. Some of the best folding electric bikes are designed as hybrid models. They may be sold as a Class 2 e-bike, for example, but customers have the option of "unlocking" Class 3 features.

Folding bikes vary widely in price. If you’re shopping on a budget, know that you can find a decent model for a few hundred dollars. Midrange models can be had for under $800. For those looking to splurge, however, there are plenty of high-end, premium options for several thousand dollars. It all depends on what features you’re looking for and how much you’re willing to spend.

Is It Worth Buying a Foldable Bike?

Folding bikes tend to prioritize being more portable than comfortable. That’s not to say folding bikes provide zero comfort. Most models feature smaller dimensions and smaller tires, which means they’re not going to be quite as cushy (especially on longer rides) as a full-sized two-wheeler. That said, a folding bike might be worth the trade-offs if you live in a small space, or storage is at a premium in your home.

What Is the Disadvantage of a Folding Bike?

Again, folding bikes tend to be smaller overall. The main reason this matters is that the (usually) smaller tires mean they’re not as comfortable to ride over long distances, like on an extended commute to work. They’re much better suited for sidewalks and smooth city streets over, say, hardcore trail riding or even gravel paths. They’re also typically more expensive than traditional bicycles since the designs and frames are more complex, and you’re paying for the convenience of that added portability.

Are Folding Bikes Hard to Pedal?

They’re not necessarily hard to pedal. But, due to their smaller dimensions and wheel size, they are usually harder to pedal and navigate than their full-sized counterparts. In our experience, it’s typically a matter of riding a new folding bike for a while to get used to the feel. Ultimately, however, it comes down to personal preference, so we recommend trying in-store before buying whenever possible.

Read More on the Best Biking Equipment

Best Folding E-Bikes | Cheap E-Bikes | Best Bike Helmets | Best Air Bikes | Best Exercise Bikes | Best Cycling Shorts

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Experts Recommend The Best Affordable Bikes For Casual Bike Riders

Shopping Writer for HuffPost

The unofficial pastime of good weather may very well be bike riding. No matter if it’s a breezy errand run around town or just a way to get in some exercise that’ll take you outdoors , having a good bicycle this season is probably something you should consider.

Dean Mullin, co-owner of Portland, Oregon’s Clever Cycles and creator of the bike tube matching service Biketubes.com , refers to these kinds of practical no-fuss bikes as “sunny weather bikes.”.

After speaking with Mullin and others, we’ve learned that even if your biking ambitions only extend to casual bike rides and not the Tour de France, you should still expect to invest at least $500 or more if you want something that will last you for ages, be as low-maintenance as possible and offer you a safe ride.

Isaac Denham is the owner of Befitting Bicycles near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania with over 15 years of bike industry experience. According to him, you should also factor in the costs of bike accessories, which can cost a few hundred dollars.

“You’ll need things like a pump, helmet and flat repair kit. It may seem like [we’re] upselling you, but the first time you get a flat and have to walk home, you’ll understand why you needed that pump,” Denham said.

Both Denham and Mullin used their combined experience to help create the following list of investment-worthy entry-level bikes that are among some of the most affordable options in this quality caliber. And because we always like to factor in the opinions of real-life shoppers, we’ve included a couple of other highly rated bicycles that can fit your basic cycling needs.

HuffPost and its publishing partners may receive a commission from some purchases made via links on this page. Every item is independently curated by the HuffPost Shopping team. Prices and availability are subject to change.

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The Great Eclipse Ride 2024

Pearson Metropark, 761 Lallendorf Road, Oregon OH

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About this trip

We're going to Toledo for a 20+ mile ride, timed to end just before the total eclipse on April 8! We've mapped a lovely route in the flats of northwest Ohio, including riding through one metro park, one state park, along the shores of Lake Erie, and a bit of the Maumee River!

Important: Meet at Parking Lot #9 at the Metro Park, and bring a lunch.

What’s included

• Supported group ride

What’s not included

• Travel to/from Toledo
• Lodging or dining

Available Packages

Join the bunch to see the 2024 Eclipse at Pearson Metro Park near Toledo

Who’s Going

Your organizer.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

2024’s Best Commuter and Urban Bikes

8 Amazing Bikes for Commuting, Hauling Cargo, and Riding Around Town

Each year, Bicycling ’s test editors choose the Best Bikes from the thousands available across dozens of categories. Our process starts with analyzing price, features, and how each bike solves a rider’s needs. We also monitor cycling trends, research emerging riding categories, and closely follow new technologies. Then we tighten our focus on the bikes with the most potential, get them, ride them extensively, and discuss them rigorously amongst the test team and with other cyclists.

Almost no one uses a bicycle only how it’s portrayed on bike brands’ websites. So we test bikes in ways our readers ride them. We go to group rides and events, dig through social media posts, and dive into the minutia to give us insight into obstacles riders face and how they use their bikes to solve them.

Rad Power Rad Wagon 5

Specialized turbo tero x 6.0, xtracycle rfa, ride1up prodigy v2, velotric t1, brompton c-line electric 12-speed, trek wahoo path, lectric one, best value commuter.

Only one word is needed to sum up and exemplify why Lectric’s One is a bike that shouldn’t be overlooked: Pinion. You will know what that means if you’re a die-hard bicycle tech nerd. But for the uninitiated, Pinion is a German brand that manufactures high-end and fully enclosed gearbox units—sort of like an internally geared hub, except mounted in the bottom bracket. Most consumers are unfamiliar with the brand because Pinion products usually wind up on very pricey and niche bikes.

So, this makes a Pinion system on a $2,000 commuter e-bike very exciting, especially since it’s a part usually reserved for bikes triple that price.

How did Lectric make the pricing work to include a Pinion gearbox on such an affordable model? Lectric combined Pinion’s C1.6 6-speed gearbox with a 750-watt rear-hub motor. (The gearbox and motor are combined into a single unit on pricier Pinion-equipped e-bikes.) Additionally, Lectric stuck to the much cheaper cadence sensor for motor engagement rather than go the costlier torque sensor route. However, Lectric enhanced the cadence sensor with 96 magnets versus the 12 typically used on the brand’s other models.

Lectric One eBike

Lectric then joins the Pinion gearbox and hub motor with a Gates Carbon belt set-up (instead of a standard chain drive). The belt doesn’t require chainlube and runs cleanly, quietly, and efficiently. With the bike’s gears enclosed by the Pinion system, these two bits of tech help make the Lectric ONE essentially free of daily maintenance.

Riding the One, I was quickly enamored with the Pinion system’s smoothness and precision—nothing else on the market is quite like it—and the hub motor was impressively powerful. However, while the improved cadence sensor was better than others I’ve used, it was still very much a cadence sensor. Like most cadence sensor-equipped bikes, the One feels disconnected from the motor. This feeling is from a combination of lag (though very slight in this case) and because the force put into the pedals does not relate to the motor’s output. Both factors result in a slightly unnatural motor response.

With that said, it didn’t take long to get used to how the One delivers its motor assist. I’m happy to take a cadence sensor to get a Pinion gearbox and Gates belt drive at such a reasonable price. The One is an ideal option for riders seeking a dependable, low-maintenance, all-weather commuter bike with the bells and whistles of a bike normally costing significantly more. — Dan Chabanov

BEST BUDGET E-CARGO

The Rad Wagon is now in its fifth iteration and has introduced countless people to the joys of a long-tail cargo e-bike. Since the Rad Wagon was one of the most affordable options in the category, it allowed many riders to try out a bike type that, while incredibly practical, often has a high cost of entry. The downside of that low price was that the Rad Wagon suffered from cheap and unreliable brakes, not something you want on a bike that can carry you plus two passengers.

The good news is that the newest iteration of the Rad Wagon has improvements in its standard equipment and only a modest price increase. For the extra $400 over the Rad Wagon 4, the new bike gets a suspension fork and smaller wheels with much wider tires. The Rad Wagon 5 also uses better lights (that now include turn signals) and, most crucially, a set of powerful hydraulic disc brakes. The Tektro hydraulic disc brakes are the most critical update to the bike and deliver reliable stopping power. All the updates combine to turn the Rad Wagon from a bike we recommended primarily based on price into one we confidently endorse as a great alternative to pricier cargo e-bike models. — D.C.

BEST SUPER COMMUTER

The Turbo Tero X is a bike I can enthusiastically recommend to any cyclist.

This e-bike is so good and so versatile, and so damn handy it will become the bike you use most. If forced to describe it, I’d say the Tero X is a full suspension mountain bike with a class three motor made for everyday doings. The Tero X‘s upright position, flat bar, knobby tires, and suspension provide sure-footed multi-surface capability. And even on pavement, the bike’s suspension is a huge boon.

Hitting a pothole or bridge expansion joint hit at 28mph on a rigid 50-pound e-bike is uncomfortable at best; at worst, the rider can also cause the rider to get awkwardly bucked and lose control of the bike. The Tero X’s suspension makes for a more comfortable, safer, and more relaxed ride.

Another mountain bike feature that has real-world practicability is the dropper post. Dropping the saddle makes it possible to stand flat-footed at traffic lights and makes it easier to mount and dismount the bike with street clothes.

Specialized Turbo Tero X

Specialized has long made excellent e-bikes, and the brand’s in-house developed motor (and accompanying apps) are some of the best. The motor offers a lot of torque with little noise or vibration, with a natural feeling tune that’s never jerky or awkward.

The claimed range from the 710Wh battery is 75 miles in Eco mode. But during my time with the Tero X, I hardly used Eco mode and just Turbo’d everywhere, which resulted in 25 or so miles of range. While that doesn’t seem like much, I found it was more than plenty for numerous trips around my small town before I needed to worry about plugging in. And recharges are fairly quick—even just plugging it in for 30 minutes was enough to erase any range anxiety.

The Tero X 6.0 is fully equipped with lights (the headlight puts out 1,000 lumens in high beam mode—more than enough to see clearly on dark roads and paths at night), fenders, a rear rack, and a kickstand.

The suspension fork precludes many front rack options—though options do exist—and the rear rack limit is just 44 pounds. So, this isn’t a cargo bike or something intended for hauling a week’s worth of groceries for the family. Instead, the Tero X is a bike for going places. It’s a bike that makes you want to leave the car at home—because going by bike is, as we all know, the best way to get anywhere. — Matt Phillips

BEST MID-TAIL E-CARGO BIKE

Xtracycle designed the RFA (short for Ready For Anything) to evolve around the changing needs of daily life. Its adjustable dropouts allow you to shorten and lengthen the wheelbase by 5.5 inches if needed. The shorter layout (dubbed the RFA Sport) comes with a smaller rear deck. We opted for the RFA Utility with its longer-length rack (might as well have more capacity, right?), but you can always change the wheelbase length in about an hour. Plus, Xtracycle’s website has a seamless interface for selecting accessories and custom options for your bike when ordering.

The bike feels sturdy and smooth. Its 2.5-inch wide tires dampen road vibration and make you feel like you can run over almost any pothole or cracked pavement, an admirable trait on a bike designed to carry hundreds of pounds of cargo. The steel frame and fork, combined with a front thru-axle, gave our test bike a precise and confidence-inspiring steering feel. Our test bike featured the Shimano STEPS EP6 motor, which assists up to 28 mph. Under daily riding conditions, however, the motor tops out around 23-25 mph.

The previous version of this bike did not come with stock fenders, but Xtracycle remedied this and now includes rear wheel skirts and footrests. Overall, the RFA is a smooth, solid-feeling bike ready for years of riding. Xtracycle backs this with a lifetime warranty for the frame and fork and a two-year warranty for the Shimano STEPS system.

The RFA exists in a crowded market of direct-to-consumer e-bikes. But as a cargo bike brand, Xtracycle has been around for much longer than many of its competitors. Debuting its first product, a cargo bike extension kit, in 1999. So, the brand knows the market and how riders use its bikes.

This bike is a well-thought-out and executed product made for the real world, not simply some nice-looking specifications listed on a website or feature sheet. I thought highly enough of the bike that, while I have tested many great e-cargo bikes, the RFA is the first one I used to take my daughter along for a ride. — D.C.

BEST BELT-DRIVE COMMUTER

Ride1Up‘s second-generation Prodigy commuter is an excellent follow-up to the brand’s original version. The new V2 retains the V1’s excellent Brose mid-drive motor and internal battery while featuring an improved aesthetic design, an air-spring suspension fork, a 9-speed drivetrain, and better brakes for the reasonable price of $2,395.

For an additional $300, Ride1Up offers the Prodigy V2 equipped with a Gates belt drive and Enviolo stepless gear rear hub. And for us, this is the package to buy.

A good commuter bike is practical, easy to use, and no fuss. It‘s something you ride to work, school, or errands around town, not something you expect to spend considerable time maintaining or repairing. For these reasons, many commuters choose a singlespeed bike—but even singlespeed chains require maintenance.

Belt-drive bikes offer advantages over traditional chain-type drivetrains, with an upside being their low maintenance—they do not require chain lube, stay remarkably clean, and rarely require adjustment or tightening. Plus, they are stealthily silent and look great.

Unfortunately, belt drives require an internal hub to shift gears—and internal hubs weigh a lot and have limited gear ranges. Thankfully, Ride1Up used Enviolo’s internal gear Trekking rear hub that features continuously variable, stepless gearing and a 380% gear range. The CVT allows riders to shift while stopped or under load and is super smooth.

While almost $2,700 is not chump change for a commuter bike, the Prodigy V2 is a steal compared to similarly-equipped Specialized and Gazelle models priced at $4,000. — Tara Seplavy

BEST HYBRID E-BIKE

Hybrid bikes combine elements of road bikes (lightweight frame, 700c wheels) and mountain bikes (flat handlebar, wide-range gearing, and sometimes suspension). Since these bikes do not fully commit to either discipline, hybrids get poo-pooed by some cycling snobs and purists. And that‘s a damned shame because their combination of traits can make hybrids the best choice for many riders’ commuting, fitness, or leisure riding needs.

Weirdly though, while e-bikes currently command a lot of attention from bike brands (and space in their product portfolios), if you’re seeking an electric hybrid bike you will find stunningly few choices. Instead, many brands focus on utility e-bikes or models with wide tires for commuters or recreational riders, relying on motor power to negate the heft of the extra equipment.

Velotric T1 e-Bike

Luckily, there are a few options for hybrid e-bikes. And one of the best I’ve recently tried is Velotric’s T1. This bike is sporty and quick and its handling feels similar to some road bikes. Some of that snappy ride feel is from the T1’s 350W rear hub motor, some from the road bike-like geometry, but a lot is from the weight. At 37.1 pounds, the T1 is on the light side for e-bikes (especially at this price) and doesn’t weigh that much more than many non-assist hybrids.

Velotric also packs a slew of tech features into the T1 that you wouldn‘t expect for a bike at $1,800. On the riding side, the T1 employs a torque sensor for a smooth and natural pedaling feel and a light-sensing headlamp that turns on when it gets dark. For security features, the T1 features a fingerprint lock on the bike and GPS tracking and theft alert via Velotric‘s app.

While many brands have apps for their e-bikes, Velotric‘s app on your phone pulls double duty as the T1’s display unit. Personally, I don‘t like my iPhone sitting on my stem and prefer a dedicated LCD (even if only a basic one). But I understand that many folks like this feature and they can use the app for bike data and navigation. — T.S.

BEST FOLDING E-BIKE

Folding e-bikes are a hot category right now, with brands like Aventon, Rad Power, Lectric, and One-Up offering these models. But unfortunately, in reality, most of these bikes are enormous (even when folded) and heavy. That’s because many of these bikes start with (more or less) a full-size e-bike and simply add a hinge joint to the frame to handle the folding.

Brompton takes a decidedly different approach—electrifying its already excellent folding bike by adding a 250-watt motor to the front wheel. The result is a truly portable folding e-bike. One that you can easily carry and stow on a bus or a crowded commuter train. While the battery and motor add some heft to the C-Line, the 38-pound weight of the bike feels practically featherweight compared to typical e-bikes, which are routinely over 50 pounds.

Brompton C-Line Electric

If your bike trip is short enough and you don’t want to carry the extra heft of the power pack, the Brompton is one of the very few e-bikes that’s genuinely pleasant to ride unpowered. And this is where the C-Line’s 12-speed drivetrain comes in handy. The C-Line might be somewhat confusing if you’re accustomed to most bike gearing—it’s not a traditional 12-speed cassette at the rear. Instead, the Brompton uses an internal 3-speed hub paired with a 4-speed rear derailleur. Multiply four times three, and you get to Brompton’s 12-speeds.

The bottom line is that if you need an e-bike that folds small enough to sit under your desk at the office or fit into an overhead luggage bin on a train, the Brompton C-Line is your best option. It doesn’t hurt that the bike rides great and has clever engineering. — D.C.

BEST KID'S BIKE

Picking bikes for pre-teens is tough! Kids of this age are often too tall for traditional “kid‘s bikes” (usually aimed at younger audiences or are styled on BMX bikes), making them hard to ride for longer distances. But, they‘re also often too small for XS-sized adult bikes (that are too big and unwieldy).

Several brands introduced new models over the past few years designed for 8 to 12-year-olds to fill this underserved niche. Unfortunately, many are pricey or intended mainly for mountain biking (with fat knobby tires and suspension) versus bike paths and multi-use trails.

Trek’s new Wahoo Path bikes are a great option for pre-teens to use around the neighborhood, commuting to school, or riding with family. Trek offers the Wahoo in two wheel sizes: 24-inch (riders 4’3” to 4’11”) and 26-inch (riders 4’10” to 5’3”), and each is available in three colors. The bikes feature aluminum frames and forks, 2-inch wide tires, and wide-range 8-speed gearing.

The Wahoo Paths incorporate some solid attention to detail often overlooked by brands. An example is Trek’s use of Microshift’s Acolyte shifter. Designed for smaller hands, this trigger shifter is easier to use than shifters intended for adult hands. Another is the gear range—it uses an 11-38T cassette paired with a 28T chainring. This provides low gearing to get up some hills while also tall enough to ride on flat roads or the bike path.

Additionally, Trek built the Wahoo Path’s frame with standover in mind (without resorting to a step-through configuration). This allows kids to use the bike for (hopefully) a couple of years before they grow to another side. And since none of the frames or colors are overly boy- or girl-oriented, the bike is easier to pass to another young rider or sell when your child outgrows it. — T.S.

More of the Best Bikes of the Year:

Road | mountain | gravel.

As Deputy Editor, Tara Seplavy leads Bicycling’s product test team; after having previously led product development and sourcing for multiple bike brands, run World Championship winning mountain bike teams, wrenched at renowned bicycle shops in Brooklyn, raced everything from criteriums to downhill, and ridden bikes on six different continents (landing herself in hospital emergency rooms in four countries and counting). Based in Easton, Pennsylvania, Tara spends tons of time on the road and trail testing products. A familiar face at cyclocross races, crits, and bike parks in the Mid Atlantic and New England, on weekends she can often be found racing for the New York City-based CRCA/KruisCX team. When not riding a bike, or talking about them, Tara listens to a lot of ska, punk, and emo music, and consumes too much social media.  

A gear editor for his entire career, Matt’s journey to becoming a leading cycling tech journalist started in 1995, and he’s been at it ever since; likely riding more cycling equipment than anyone on the planet along the way. Previous to his time with Bicycling , Matt worked in bike shops as a service manager, mechanic, and sales person. Based in Durango, Colorado, he enjoys riding and testing any and all kinds of bikes, so you’re just as likely to see him on a road bike dressed in Lycra at a Tuesday night worlds ride as you are to find him dressed in a full face helmet and pads riding a bike park on an enduro bike. He doesn’t race often, but he’s game for anything; having entered road races, criteriums, trials competitions, dual slalom, downhill races, enduros, stage races, short track, time trials, and gran fondos. Next up on his to-do list: a multi day bikepacking trip, and an e-bike race. 

Test Editor Dan Chabanov got his start in cycling as a New York City bike messenger but quickly found his way into road and cyclocross racing, competing in professional cyclocross races from 2009 to 2019 and winning a Master’s National Championship title in 2018. Prior to joining Bicycling in 2021, Dan worked as part of the race organization for the Red Hook Crit, as a coach with EnduranceWERX, as well as a freelance writer and photographer. 

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