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Dometic RV Refrigerator Trips Breaker (Why And How To Fix)

• February 28, 2021 /
• RVing 101 /
• By James V.

Not every appliance works perfectly. Even when you buy new, there is the risk that you have purchased a lemon or at least an appliance that has difficulty getting along with the electrical system. Unfortunately, even RVs are not immune to this issue and you need to find the problem.

This happens more often than you would think. Many people have experienced this issue and the most common cause is that there is a problem with the heating unit. The best fix for this problem is replacing the heating element.

To learn more about this Dometic fridge problem, just continue to read our article. It has the information you need to know about so you can prevent a fire or further damage to your appliance or RV.

Why Would a Refrigerator Trip a GFCI?

The main reason this would take place is that there is a short in the system somewhere. The heating element may be bad, it may be drawing too much power or there may even be a problem with your extension cord.

That problem will be enough to trip the GFCI breaker and cut the power to everything attached to that breaker. Another source would be a short in the wiring as the electrical wires were not put in correctly, there is a fray or the wires were not the right gauge to handle the flow of electricity.

Unless you are an electrical expert and have the right tools to diagnose the problem, this is something that should be left up to the qualified repairman, especially if the fridge is still under warranty.

Do the simple fixes first, like testing a new extension cord, and if that doesn’t solve the problem then it is most likely the heating element. This is not a problem you want to delay getting fixed because it can damage your fridge as well as start a nice fire.

Finding a qualified repairman is not always an easy task to do.

RV Refrigerator Tripping GFCI When Plugged In

This is a common problem and since fridges are not perfect, there may be some point in time where you will experience this taking place. The general consensus is that there is a problem with the heating element or the wiring connecting that element to the electrical source.

One source that may cause the problem is that the heating element began to touch some metal part on your fridge. This can happen as you drive over some bumpy roads. When this happens, you can try moving the element away from the metal section and solve your problem.

Other times you will not be able to do this as the problem is not the touching but somewhere in the element, the wiring, or the GFCI breaker itself. To test the GFCI breaker, unplug your Dometic fridge from the RV wiring and run an extension cord to a plug, not on the same circuit.

If there is no problem after plugging the extension cord into the new circuit, there is either a problem with the wiring in the RV, the connection to the outlet, the outlet itself, or the GFCI breaker is bad.

If you connect to a second independent GFCI breaker and it trips, then the problem is with the fridge. Do the test so you know what needs to be fixed and let the qualified repairman do the repair work for you.

What Does the Check Light Mean On a Dometic RV Fridge?

This light is placed on your Dometic fridge to monitor the gas system. If it goes on then there is a problem somewhere in that system. The good news is that if you see the light on before you get moving, the fix is easy and should not delay you for very long.

Now if you have set the fridge to automatic, the light should not go on as the fridge system is designed to switch back and forth between gas and electricity when there may be an issue arising. It may go on in this mode when electricity is not available.

Usually, the fridge is designed to go to electrical power by default. If you see the check light on when you are in auto mode then that is telling you that neither gas nor electricity is available and the fridge can’t operate.

Also, the check light may be indicating that there is another problem that needs your attention. You may need a checklist of items to look at to help guide your search. having the checklist helps make finding the problem a lot easier and you save time. Always look to the simple solutions first.

Reasons Why the Check Light Comes On

There are lots of reasons why the check light appears when you least expect it to. One source may simply be that there is a short in the system and you will need to check the wiring. It does happen but this may not be a frequent source.

Here are some reasons why the check light comes on:

• 1. The gas is turned off - when you are on automatic mode, the gas still has to be turned on.
• 2. RV is not level - all RV fridges seem to have this nuance. They like to be level if they are going to work properly. Check your levelers to make sure everything is as it should be.
• 3. The propane tank is empty - this happens at the wrong time and you simply forgot to refill it.
• 4. Ignition wire is dirty - carbon and other dirt and grime can build up on the ignition wire and cause it to stop lighting the gas. Scrape the tip of the wire clean again. To get to that wire, you may have to remove a couple of panels.
• 5. Faulty fuse - this will cause your fridge to shut down and not work. Go to your fuse box and check them out. Don’t forget to check the fuse your heating element is connected to, it can short and cause the light to come on. Use a multimeter to see if this is a problem.
• ​ 6. Low batteries - your RV battery may have run out of power and the fridge is not getting any electricity. Recharge your batteries regularly to avoid this problem.
• 7. Powerboard malfunction - this does happen from time to time and you may need to replace it. Or the control panel is defective and has created problems for you.
• ​ 8. Thermostat issues - this is a cheap part but it can affect your Dometic fridge if it is not working, has loose connections, or came loose from its proper position and is hanging by the wires.
• 9. The outside burner is clogged - this has happened to some RV owners. They did not have a flying insect screen installed on their outside burner. It was clogged with pollen and cottonwood seeds. An air hose will blow the dirt out and installing a screen will keep them out.
• 10. Check the venting - improper venting may cause problems for the fridge and in turn the fridge will activate the check light. Make sure the vents are clear and in the right place.

Troubleshooting Your Dometic Fridge

Here are some solutions to common Dometic fridge issues that may impact your RV vacation:

1. The fridge is not cooling right

• Inadequate ventilation - check the vents to see if they are clogged and clean them if they are.
• The condenser is heavily frosted - check the fridge door to make sure it is closing tightly and correctly.
• Too much warm food was placed inside the fridge - let the food cool first before putting inside.
• Thermostat is too low - just adjust the dial to a cooler setting.

2. Does not cool on battery operation

• Onboard fuse is bad - replace the fuse
• RV battery has no power - recharge the battery
• Defective heating element - let a dealer replace it for you

3. Fridge not operating in gas mode

• Propane tank is empty - refill at a nearest propane dealer
• Upstream valves closed - open the valve
• Air in the gas line - turn fridge on and off several times

4. The fridge has stopped working- turn it off and go to a Dometic dealer or approved repairman

5. Odors- burner is out of place, is damaged or there is dirt in the system

6. Not cooling- damaged fuse, open door, bad thermostat, power failure,

Some Final Words

The check light is not always indicating a serious problem. Make sure to run through the simple and quick-to-fix sources first before heading off to your Dometic dealer. Unless it is still under warranty.

Some fixes you should be able to do without voiding the warranty and you will be open your way shortly. If the breaker is tripping then get qualified help to fix it.

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RV Keeps Tripping The Breaker? Here’s What to Do!

NOTE*** The content on this page may contain affiliate links, we may make a commission. And, as an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.   More information: disclosure page .

Are you plugging in your RV and the breaker keeps tripping? Whether you are plugging in at your house or to shore power at the campground you can trip the breaker at the outlet or inside the camper. Either way, it’s just so frustrating!

I am writing about both — the RV tripping the house or campground breaker — and — the breaker inside the RV gets tripped. Save this page because you are likely to see both these problems on your journeys.

So why does your RV keep tripping the breaker?

Your RV will keep tripping the breaker if there is too much electricity running through the circuit. You could be overloading the internal circuit breaker or the external breaker at the house or campground. Other problems can be a bad circuit breaker, a short in the line, or problems with the extension cord.

There are multiple possible problems here – there is the internal electric system in the RV and the external power source at the campground or house. Although most of the time the problem is with the external breakers like the ones at the campground or house.

If you are only interested in the RV tripping the breakers at the house or the GFCI outlet — you can skip to that part of the article.

Let’s first start with the RV’s electrical system basics.  Well, just because I am an engineer by training. So an RV has 3 electrical systems:

• the engine chassis system or the 12-volt DC automotive system is what makes the vehicle itself work;
• the shore power or the AC external power source from the area you are in such as the campground or your home; 
• and the battery system that is composed of a series of 12-volt DC power which provides electricity inside your RV whenever you’re not connected to shore power.

To read more about the electrical basics of an RV, start here:

• RV Electric Setup Basics (RV Plugs and Voltages)
• Do You Need the Battery if the RV is Plugged In? (Will it Still Work?)
• Can RV Surge Protectors Get Wet? (And Other Important Questions)

Where is my RV breaker box and What is it? 

There are two breakers that your RV can use; one inside of the RV and another outside the RV.  The breaker inside the RV is to protect your RV from internal electrical system problems like overloading, short-circuiting and faulty wiring. The breaker at the point of connection to the shore power is to protect both your RV and the external power source from power surges or overloading.

I suggest adding another level of protection by using a surge protector between the electric box and your camper. A surge protector can literally save you thousands in damage to your internal wiring or worse a fire. I suggest this one on Amazon .

The basic purpose of an RV breaker is to protect you and your RV from possible electrical problems.  It can trip from simply having too many items plugged at once or other bigger problems like unexpected surges.

Why do I keep blowing breakers inside my RV?

Circuit breakers protect your RV electrical system from power surges and overloading.

The RV breakers will blow or pop if you have too much electricity running through the circuit. Plugging in too many things, a surge in the power source, faulty wiring, or a bad breaker can all cause the breaker to blow.

Your internal circuit breakers are usually collectively placed in a circuit breaker panel.  In this circuit breaker panel, you will see all your circuit breakers for the entire inside of the RV. Each breaker is connected to a number of plugs on your RV. 

It is important to know which plugs are connected to which circuit breaker. That way you will be able to immediately determine where the possible problem is whenever an internal breaker trips.

The most common problem that causes you to overload your internal circuit is when you turn on an appliance. Then suddenly the breaker in which the appliance is connected trips.

I know that I cannot run the microwave and the air conditioner at the same time in my camper.

Try turning off the appliance with a high electrical draw. They turn each one on at a time. The microwave, air conditioner and water boiler are frequently to blame in this scenario.

Another problem can be a short in the line or a bad bad breaker, which I cover in the next section.

Other Reasons my RV Keeps Tripping the Camper’s Internal Breaker

If your RV keeps on tripping the internal breaker and you believe that you are not overloading any circuit, another reason could be short-circuiting.

Short Circuit

Unlike in overloading, short-circuiting might notice sparks and burning of the plug whenever you plug or turn on an appliance that is short-circuited.  This can also be accompanied by the smell of burned plastic.

NEVER ignore any of these signs in your RV. A fire in your RV is very dangerous.

Short-circuiting can be due to faulty wiring or wear and tear.  During short-circuiting, your RV breaker shuts off in order to avoid possible fire.

Faulty or Broken Breaker

Another possible reason the breaker keeps tripping is that the breaker itself has a problem.  It is possible that your internal breaker is faulty.

A breaker can only handle a number of resets and when it reaches this maximum reset and breaks. 

You can manually turn off each breaker to check which one is causing the problem. If you have a multimeter or voltmeter you can check each breaker to make sure the correct amount of power is flowing.

Multi-meters are actually quite handy and easy to use. And very inexpensive. I suggest adding one to your RV toolkit and have on hand. I suggest this one on Amazon.

The breakers can be replaced if they go bad.

Why is My RV Tripping the Campground or House Breaker ? 

The external circuit breaker at the house or campground protects both your RV and the external power source from electrical damage.

When too much electricity flows through the circuit at the house or campground the breaker will trip. Generally, the problem is the RV is pulling too much electricity for appliances like the AC. However, the breaker could be bad, there might be a short in the system, or the extension cord is faulty or too long.

Initially, you might notice that your lights start blinking or dimming when your RV starts to overload your external power source.

(Although this could also be a sign of power surge or interruptions. You should always be using a surge protector . )

The biggest sign will be that everything shuts off in your RV. Yep, you have overloaded your external power.

The main reasons why the breaker at the house is tripping when your RV is plugged in are:

• Mismatched electrical power, your RV requires much higher power than you are plugged into
• Overloading the circuit with high-demand systems like the AC or microwave
• Low or bad batteries on the RV
• Other things plugged into the outlet besides the RV (like the fridge)
• Faulty or bad breaker
• A short in the system
• Too long of an extension cord

Aside from overloading, another reason why your RV keeps tripping the campground breaker could be your power cord.  The wiring in the power cord actually causes resistance in the line and the longer the cord the less power arrives at the camper. Therefore, the draw at the start will be higher.

It is also possible that your power cord is damaged. That’s why the campground breaker keeps on tripping to avoid short circuits and fire.

Why Does Your RV Keep Tripping the House GCFCI Outlet?

You may actually be plugging your camper into the GFCI outlet in your house or garage. A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet is generally installed in (although not limited to) areas where electrical circuits may accidentally come in contact with water as it helps prevent electrocution.

The GFCI outlet looks almost the same as any other outlet, only that it has buttons in it and a built-in breaker. The GFCI outlets are very sensitive to bad grounds and reverse polarity in electrical systems. They can trip on these when a normal circuit breaker will not.

In addition to the list above for reasons the breaker trips, you might find the GFCI breaker is tripping for another reason.

Why is the camper tripping the house GFCI outlet?

The GFCI outlet will trip if the circuit is overloaded from the power draw from the camper or other things plugged into the same outlet. Specifically, the GFCI outlet is sensitive to moisture, shorts, faulty wiring, and power surge.

Another possible reason is that the GFCI outlet itself is broken or faulty. 

How Do You Fix a Breaker That Keeps Tripping?

Determine the Main Reason Why the Breaker Keeps Tripping

Before fixing anything on your RV, it is important to determine the main reason why your breaker keeps tripping.  If you have to go through a thorough inspection of your RV’s electrical connections and appliance plugs, go through it first.

Fix or Replace Faulty Wiring

If the culprit is any faulty wiring, you can have this fixed or replaced.  If you are knowledgeable about doing things like these, you can do the repair or replacement by yourself.

When dealing with wiring and electricity it is best to bring it to the professionals to avoid bigger problems.

Replace Faulty Breaker

If the problem is the breaker itself, you can buy a replacement for it. Again, if you are unsure or not comfortable with the work, have a professional electrician complete the work.

Whichever the possible reason why your RV breaker keeps tripping, it is best to consult professionals.  If you are really in doubt about the problem, have your RV inspected by them and they will provide more accurate findings and a probable better solution.

RV Keeps Tripping the Campground Breaker

There are some reasons for tripping the breaker that is specific to connecting to the power at the campground. If you have not found any of the above ideas to redeem the situation you may be looking at a reason related to the campground.

One reason could be the weather.  During hot days, the campground may experience low voltage compared to the amount of power that campers are using. This can cause your appliances, especially your air-conditioning unit, to pull more amperes that will eventually trip off the campground breaker.

If this is also not the reason, it is also possible that the campground breaker is already faulty.  Due to the number of campers visiting the campground and using the shore power, it is possible the breaker has worn out.

If this is the reason why the campground breaker keeps tripping, talk to campground management. You might need to change sites or connect your RV to another pedestal on the campground.

Can My Breaker Get Tripped When Nothing Is Plugged In?

Although it is very unusual, it is not impossible for your breaker to trip even when nothing is plugged in.

This may be because of short-circuiting due to faulty wiring that your breaker can sense.  It can also be due to a ground fault where your hot wire gets in contact with the ground. 

Lastly, it may be due to a faulty breaker.  A faulty breaker just shuts off without any reason aside from it is already broken.

Final Thoughts 

So technically, the most common reasons for your RV’s breaker to keep tripping are overloading the circuit, short-circuiting due to faulty wiring, or simply having a faulty breaker. This may be for your internal or external breaker.

This shows how important it is to regularly inspect your electrical systems. Be very careful of your appliances’ power consumption, wires, outlets, and connections.  If you are not personally familiar with or knowledgeable on things like the electrical systems of your RV, it is always better to consult a professional to do the job for you.

The things tackled above showed that even the slightest wear or tear from your wirings can give you the biggest problem if not immediately detected and recognized.  Although this also shows that your breaker tripping does not always have to mean a super complicated problem because sometimes, it’s really just your breaker acting up and needs to be changed.

On a side note, I encourage you to take an RV Planner and Journal with you from our Etsy Store and write about the sights, sounds, and tastes that you experienced during camping trips.

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It’s possible that faulty wiring connections are one of the reasons your air conditioner keeps tripping the breaker. This might be the breaker itself or the wires that connect to the AC unit.

Good point. A multimeter or voltmeter would be very useful here.

When your air conditioner keeps tripping, you should follow these steps: Turn the air conditioner off for 30 minutes. Turn on the AC circuit breaker in your electrical panel. Place the AC on to cool after 30 minutes.

Regarding the surge protector I’m not sure if I would get a 30 or 50 amp surge protector. The camper is 30 but we are having to use an adapter at the site because it is 50amp.

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RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting:18 Most Common Issues Solved

September 2, 2018 by Shubhankar Chaudhary 6 Comments

RV52 Table of Contents FOR THIS PAGE!!! CLICK to Navigate!

#1 Check Light keeps blinking

The check light is usually the yellow colored one next to the green colored ‘ON’ light. It basically is meant to show that normal refrigerator functioning is being interrupted.

One instance it might come on is when you unplug the 120 V AC outlet. You’ll see the yellow check light blinking momentarily until the fridge automatically restarts on propane.

Here are a couple other reasons why your check light might be coming on:

• Because the RV isn’t level
• AC/DC electricity supply was switched off and you need to manually configure it to propane OR the other way around
• Propane and electricity supply both are switched off

#2 RV refrigerator is leaking a yellow fluid/ making gurgling noises

If this is true for you, then all signs point to an ammonia leak.

Ammonia is used in the evaporator section of a propane refrigerator, and is an essential part of the refrigeration process.( Check out this article on how RV refrigerators work? )

How to know if you have an ammonia leak:

• You get a chemical-ly smell when you open the fridge door that makes your eyes water and chest burn. This probably means there is a leak in the evaporator
• There is a yellowish or lime-green residue around the burner area. This is a sign of a leak in the boiler section of the pipes
• If the leak has been happening for an extended period, the ammonia smell may not be distinguishable. Listen for a bubbling sound from the back of your refrigerator unit when you turn it on.

In case the above tips don’t help, here’s how you can check the ammonia level in a RV fridge :

Get a combustible gas detector, such as   this LP gas detector on Amazon  It runs on 4 AA batteries and along with detecting ammonia levels, it can also detect other combustible gases such as propane- bound to come in handy when you’re living in a propane fuelled machine.

#3 RV refrigerator is not cooling

There could be a LOT of reasons why your RV fridge’s cooling isn’t up to standard. Let’s look at all of them, one by one.

First, few general tips for ensuring proper cooling:

Don’t overload shelves

One of the most common reasons for insufficient cooling is that the refrigerator is stacked with way more food than it can hold.

Stuffing the shelves all the way to the back of the fridge blocks air flow from the cold air fins(at the top) to the rest of the fridge.

Get a fridge fan

You may find that air circulation still isn’t great inside your RV fridge. In that case, I recommend you get a small fridge fan. They’re quite inexpensive and last about 6 weeks on a single pair of batteries.

Another spot you could stick your fridge fan in is the rear vent of the refrigerator- usually accessible from the outside of the RV.

If you have enough space, you could point the fan to direct the reject hot air out through the vents, and hence, cool the system down a bit further.

Minimize door openings

It’s important to remember that RV fridges aren’t as efficient as home refrigerators. For instance, if you leave the fridge door open for a minute, it’ll take the refrigerator about an hour to regain the temperature it was originally at.

This is why you should try to be economical about opening the fridge door while travelling in your RV.

A great way of doing so is having a fridge magnet that allows you to take notes, like this one on Amazon . Simply write down whatever food you have inside so that you don’t need to keep opening to check.

Also writing the quantity next to the food in the list will be helpful for you to keep track, albeit cumbersome.

Monitor the temperatures

You can only deal with a problem when you know there is one, right?

Your fridge should ideally be in the range of 37-40 degree F, and so, it’s just easier to know whether you are there or not if you have a small fridge thermometer.

It won’t take up much space- you can just hang it from one of the shelves in your fridge  Check out this popular fridge thermometer on Amazon.

Know that there is a thermostat/ thermocouple

A lot of RV owners do not know of the thermocouple that they can use to change the temperature.

It’s the tiny white thing stuck inside a plastic clip that you’ll either see stuck on a cooling fin (Norcold) or to the side of the fins (Dometic).

Moving it up will increase the cooling in a Dometic fridge. In Norcold fridges, it’s supposed to be moved horizontally to change the temperature.

All other brands will be somewhat built similarly as well. When in doubt- just read the product manual. You’ll get the exact instructions for changing the temperature over there.

If none of the above tips work

There is a high possibility that the thermocouple itself is shot, and needs to be replaced.

Don’t worry, it’s a simple process to test if it’s working and replace it, if need be. I wrote about it in this post

#4 RV refrigerator not cooling in hot weather

Again, one of those typical RV fridge things that you can’t do much about.

The cooling in a propane RV fridge will be dependent on the outside temperature, to a certain extent. Meaning, that when it’s hot out, it won’t cool as effectively and when it’s cold outside, it’ll cool a bit TOO much.

In fact, if you’re in a region with temperatures above 90 degree F, no propane refrigerator is going to be able to function properly in those conditions.

You’ll need to aid the process of cooling. A hack that I came across online is to place a block of ice into the fridge, when it’s particularly hot out.

However, don’t forget to put a small pan underneath to collect the melted water!

#5 RV refrigerator cooling TOO much/ freezes everything

Big problem that a lot of RV owners face from time to time, even though there is a defrost function in most fridges today- go figure.

This is a pretty big topic though, and I wrote a complete post on why your RV fridge might be freezing everything that you might find helpful.

#6 RV refrigerator ignitor not working OR making continuous clicking noises

The ignitor is a small part of the control board that provides the spark to light up the burner when you switch the fridge to propane.

Usually present inside the rear vent(on the outside of the RV), you’ll hear a couple of clicking sounds from the ignitor until the burner lights up.

Most RV propane fridges have an ignitor these days- the other type of systems are those where you ignite the burner manually with a match.

Anyhow, here are a couple reasons why the ignitor may not be working:

• The burner is dirty, and hence is having trouble lighting up- you just need to vaccum clean it a bit
• Ignitor needs to be replaced
• Issue with the control board- full control board needs replacement

#7 RV refrigerator not working on electric

A common thing to check is whether the fridge is plugged in to the 120 V AC switch?

And no, I don’t mean inside the RV. Usually located inside the rear vent, you’ll see an electrical point where your fridge needs to be plugged in.

Another really common thing that might occur is that your GFCI circuit breakers may be tripped. If so, you just need to go reset them manually to get the fridge running again.

Now, if the above two tips weren’t helpful, then it might mean that the electrical heating element has gone bad.

In any 2 way fridge, there are two circuits- one for the electrical element to provide heating and another where the burner provides heating. So, in fact, if your fridge isn’t working on either mode, it could be because the heating element or burner needs to be checked.

If, even the heating element turns out fine, then you probably need to get the control board changed.

#8 RV refrigerator problems at high altitude

RV fridges don’t work well on propane at altitudes greater than 5500 ft. This isn’t because of any defect in the refrigerator, it’s because the low pressure doesn’t allow the propane burner to light up efficiently.

Basically there isn’t enough oxygen in the atmosphere to provide a robust flame.

There are high altitude refrigeration kits that RV fridge manufacturers also sell.

Otherwise, probably best to run your fridge on electric if you’re camping out in high altitiude for long.

#9 RV refrigerator keeps tripping breaker

This can happen when the heating element gets shorted by touching the ‘ground’ metal plate in the flue, which in turn trips the GFCI breaker. You could try connecting to another GFCI circuit to verify this.

If that wasn’t super-clear, check out the first part of the video below:

#10 RV refrigerator keeps shutting off

Probably the most common reason for this is that the refrigerator isn’t level. RV refrigerators, (because they are gravity fed instead of being compressor based) are required to be level for proper functioning.

In fact, if you park your RV on an incline for more than 15 minutes, you could do some permanent damage.

This is because the coolant liquid can accumulate in a couple of spots in the pipes- which then makes the circulation of the coolant inefficient, bringing the cooling power down.

If the refrigerator is not level, you’ll probably see a yellow check light coming on, which will go away as soon as you bring it level.

Keep in mind that this isn’t an issue while driving- of course, you can’t have a completely stable and level ground while on the road. However, when parked for extended periods, RV fridges need to be level.

A few things to check for which could be causing the fridge to keep shutting off:

• Is the electrical 120 V AC point plugged in?
• If running on electricity- Is the heating element working?
• If running on propane- Is the burner working?

#11 RV refrigerator fan keeps running all the time

The refrigerator fan is not supposed to be running all the time but even if it does, it’s not a huge issue,  functionality wise. It probably just means that there is an inline fuse before the vent fan.

There are lots of quieter varieties of fans that you can replace your standard one with- but you probably need to get a professional for this.

#12 RV refrigerator warm in cold weather

Usually happens in sub zero temperatures. The reason for this is the coolant gets sluggish in the cold weather and doesn’t circulate well, bringing down the overall refrigeration levels.

Couple things you can do:

If you have an extra electrical outlet inside the rear fridge vent, I also found mention of a pretty creative workaround that also will do the same job.

What you basically do, is place a small electric bulb there. As the bulb lights up, it’ll get hot,  and so will the air around it. The idea is that the hot air will travel up the drain pipe and into the refrigerator.

Also, during the day, ensure that your RV is parked such that the side that the fridge is on faces the sun.

Lastly, a lot of RV owners just prefer to forgo the hassle and just use a portable cooler instead, in the winter months. You may want to consider that as well.

#13 RV refrigerator leaking water

According to   forum , a common cause for this is that the condensate drain tube may be leaking water outside.

It should be ideally placed between the grills in the rear vent(outside of the RV behind where the fridge is placed) and should be leading the condensate out.

If you have a Norcold fridge, then the system is probably slightly different.

Instead of leaking outside, the condensate leaks into a pan which may have sprung a leak. You’ll need to get that fixed.

For a better idea of the rear/side vent that I’m talking about- check out this article .

#14 Top RV refrigerator vent leaks

Isn’t it the worst when it’s raining out and there’s a leak somewhere in your RV?

If there’s water leaking from the top vent of your fridge, it could cause some electrical damage too. Here’s what you do:

Identify where the leak is- is it around the edges of the vent? If so, you can simply apply some weatherstripping tape and seal it.

If, however, the patch needs to be made on the vent, and seems pretty big-ish- of course you could seal it up with the weatherstripping tape(for the time being).

#15 RV fridge is wet inside

The most plausible reason for this would be that there’s a leak in the fridge (usually it’s the gasket) from which warm air is coming inside the fridge.

#16 RV refrigerator drains battery power

If you have a residential fridge, there’s nothing much to be done about this honestly. They are much bigger in size, which is the biggest reason why they’re a huge power suck.

In fact, you’ll require either custom batteries or solar panel installations to run your RV with a standard refrigerator. Otherwise, even if you switch off all other appliances, you can expect to deplete your batteries completely within 6-7 hours.

Alternatively, even if you have a standard 2 way RV fridge (AC/propane), you might want to close the propane connection while on the road(as I believe you should!)

In that case, you’ll run the fridge on battery power with the help of an inverter. While the load is much lesser than a residential fridge, you’ll still end up depleting around half of your battery with about 8 hours of usage.

If none of the above seems to be the reason, you should get a professional’s opinion on this.

#17 Mold formation

Mold forms inside damp surroundings. If you’re not using your RV for an extended period, unless you take precautions, you may just find mold inside your fridge when you come back.

The #1 reason for this is that the fridge door was left closed while the refrigerator was switched off for a long period.

A simple fix is to get a no mold door holder , to keep the fridge door ajar when the RV isn’t in use.

#18 Food keeps flying around on the road

Two cheap but essential products that you’ll need- get a couple of fridge braces to hold the various items in position.

For items placed on the door shelf- get a shelf hog – it’s basically a balloon that provides a bit of padding to hold the food in place.

Did you find the post helpful? Any other troubleshooting tip you’d like to share?

Let us know in the comments and we’ll include it in our post!

Natalie Roberts says

May 10, 2020 at 7:55 am

I smell ammonia coming from the fridge and I notice that there are yellow stains in and around it, then that means there is a leak in the fridge’s main cooling unit. Is that right? And Is it ammonia leak? Can you explain for me?

Marlan at Rv52 says

May 11, 2020 at 8:00 am

i would be scared of death of leaks in the refrigeration system. probably i’m not rational about it, but that might be worth getting an expert in. I would think eventually it would not cool well.

May 21, 2020 at 8:13 am

Thank you, I found some useful information in here. Can you refer it : https://vogeltalksrving.com/how-to-check-the-ammonia-level-in-rv-fridge/

Samuel E. Payne says

August 31, 2021 at 9:43 am

Has anyone experienced starting the refrigerator av few hours prior to trip departure… and once turning it off, but checking the success, find the freezer was cold but refrig did not get cold? We turn ours off while driving.

Cyrus Juliet says

May 25, 2022 at 9:22 am

Before going on your newest trip, it’s critical that you know how to check the ammonia level in the RV fridge. Though you get a whiff of ammonia from your refrigerator, even if you haven’t used any ammonia-based cleaner on it, it’s one of the most telling symptoms that it’s on its way out.

Robert Ben says

November 24, 2022 at 2:55 am

A refrigerator is a necessity to store your food for both your travels and your vacation. One of the most crucial things for RVers will be to stop the refrigerator from leaking ammonia.

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RV Chronicle

RV Fridge Troubleshooting – Ultimate Guide

Whether you’re getting ready to head out on your RV for the weekend, or have been living in one for more than that, we often expect that our own RV fridge would work properly all the time. Nobody wants to get all excited on their trip, only to find out their RV fridge isn’t working properly. I’ve compiled the most common questions to help with the troubleshooting in case you’re experiencing any of the following problems.

Disclaimer: This article serves only as a troubleshooting guide and it’s best to stay on the conservative side so you don’t mess up any warranty on the unit.

Why Is My RV Fridge Is Not Working?

Because it’s such a general question, it would help to really identify what exactly the problem is first. For that to happen, it’s important to understand how a RV refrigerator works since there are a lot of different types and models of RV refrigerators out there. I’ve written an article just on that which you can find Here .

When we troubleshoot, it will be a series of trial and errors to figure out the root cause of the problem. So, to figure out why your fridge isn’t working, we’ll need to go through a few clarifying questions (below), which could navigate us to the other sections of this article:

• Is your RV level? I’ve written an article on this HERE .
• Do you know what make and model of your RV fridge is? I ask this since there may be features on your fridge that aren’t available on older models. That, and also because the parts we’ll be referring to later will be located differently on different RV fridges, so it’s always best to refer to your fridge’s user manual.
• Is the RV fridge switched on? As simple as this is, it sometimes happens.
• Is it properly plugged into the electricity or propane? If yes, go see next section
• Does the fridge switch on but there’s temperature problems (too hot/too cold/not cooling)? If yes, go  HERE 

Once we have a general idea of what could be causing your fridge not to work, we can go now focus on a little nitty gritty details.

Why does my RV fridge keep shutting off?

Because this is also a general question, we will go through a few clarifying questions again to sort out where we need to go since there could be inconsistent or insufficient electricity (AC/DC) or propane powering up your fridge.

Is it currently connected to electricity or propane? Whether you have a 2-way or 3-way fridge, try switching it to the other power source(s) first to see if it works.

Does it work (or work better) on electricity but not on propane (or vice versa)? If yes, then we can go to the specific section below.If the fridge still keeps shutting off on either propane &/or electricity (AC/DC), and you’ve tried the troubleshooting steps here and if there are any suggested by the manufacturer, might be best to get a technician to check it.

My RV Fridge Won’t Work on Electric

Insufficient or inconsistent voltage (AC/DC) can be the first suspect. If your refrigerator isn’t getting enough power, you could check the control panel for operation. The control panel uses 12-volt DC power, so if the interior fridge light (which illuminates when the door’s open) doesn’t switch on, you may need to check for a blown fuse or low coach battery power. That, or check the power distribution panel/circuit breaker if any of the interior circuit breakers are in order. If you’re plugged in, just note that it’s also common for the power voltages to drop in RV parks during peak hours. If you’re on solar, make sure you have enough juice in your batteries.

If let’s say you don’t have any problems with the AC/DC source, the fuse or circuit breaker on your RV, and your RV fridge is still shutting off on electricity, there may be issues with the refrigerator’s control board or maybe the wiring. Usually this is accompanied by other signs, so you can visually inspect the back of your RV fridge to just see if there are any exposed wires that look damaged or melted. At this point, I would suggest that you don’t touch any exposed wires (nobody wants to get electrocuted), shut off the fridge, and get professional advise, especially if the fridge is covered by any warranty (do check your warranty coverage and if there’s anything that would void it). Assuming that there’s nothing wrong in your RV electrical system (no blown fuses/circuit breakers), and your fridge simply won’t turn on (even the internal light when you open the fridge door), your fridge’s own fuse (inside the control board) could be blown.

If you recall how the RV absorption refrigerators work, on an average, the heating element should get warm on AC power even after 30m. If this doesn’t happen, there may be electrical problem in your unit. Best to call a technician to see if this is something that can be repaired or not.

My RV Fridge Trips the Circuit Breaker

It would help if you’re relatively familiar with the electrical circuitry in your RV, since we need to understand if there could be a problem with your RV fridge , your RV circuitry, or the electrical power source you’re using. Knowing also the type of circuit breaker(s) you have on your RV will be beneficial.

A circuit breaker or fuse is intended to trip or blow before circuit wires can reach a dangerous level. This can happen when the circuit is overloaded, usually due to too many appliances or lights operating at the same time, or you don’t have enough circuits in your RV.

Your circuit breaker could also trip if you get a short circuit , which can be caused by faulty wiring in an appliance that’s plugged into an outlet along the circuit, this means it could be your fridge, but maybe another appliance that’s connected to the same circuit.

This is the reason why figuring out a short circuit is a bit trickier to diagnose and fix, and you may need help from your RV electrician. But if, let’s say you reset the tripped circuit breaker where your RV fridge is connected, and it trips again, then it may indicate you would have a short circuit.

Another reason that the circuit breaker where your RV fridge is on could trip, could also be because of a ground fault, which is dangerous since there’s a risk of getting shocked, especially since these occur in areas with high moisture levels (kitchen/bathroom) — which is what ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) outlets can protect your system from since it shuts off the electrical current in a fraction of a second.

If ever your RV has arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) circuit breakers, they could trip on either an electrical overload, a short circuit, a ground-fault, or an electrical fluctuation that may occur when sparks (“arcing”) happen in the contact points of a wired connection (e.g. loose screw terminal connection in a switch or outlet). Repeated tripping of your AFCI breaker can indicate there may be loose wire connections along the circuit, which leads to the repeated arcing.

Be vigilant when tracing the different variables that can trigger your circuit break to trip. Especially when you have different options for your AC source (e.g. shore power, generator), and the amps of the campground outlets (30A, 20A, 15A) and if they’re also equipped with GFCI outlets.

My RV Fridge Won’t Work on Propane

An RV fridge that’s set to run on propane is a little more straightforward to troubleshoot, compared to when it’s set on AC/DC power. I like to follow the flow of the gas from the source, which is where we’ll start:

Do you have enough propane in your tank?

Unless you have an inline pressure gauge that will give you an accurate reading of how much gas is in the tank, there are some ways to get an approximation of how much there is, if there is any at all.

Pro Tip: One trick is to fill a cup with hot water , pour it along the side of the tank, and then run your hand along the tank, to see if there’s a cool area. The heat from the water will be absorbed by the liquid propane inside the tank. It may not be that accurate, but it’s a lot better than sniffing the tank at the valve (please don’t do that). Another way to find out if there’s enough propane in the tank is by weighing the tank. If you’re used to the weight of your propane tank(s) when it’s full versus when it’s empty, it’s a good guesstimate, but if not, you can use a weighing scale to check.

Assuming that all the other components of your RV propane system (valves, hose/pipes, etc.) are working properly, and you have a newly refilled propane tank, but the fridge still doesn’t work, then there may be an air lock in the propane lines.

This can be solved by turning on one of your propane stove burners (assuming you’re using one) to let the system ‘bleed’ a bit until you get a consistent blue flame. If you’re having problems even getting the propane stove burner to light, you could try to slowly switching the burner on.

Don’t forget to turn the propane stove burner off when you’re going to do the troubleshooting on the fridge. To prevent air locks from happening, slowly open the propane tank whenever you need to use it.

Are the propane lines in your propane system intact?

Visually inspecting the hose/pipes/valves from the tank to the fridge for any dents/cracks is important. If there are any spots (even the at the regulator valve) that you suspect may have a crack or potential leak, if you smell the propane &/or you pour water on it and it bubbles up, immediately switch the propane tank off.

This includes checking the propane regulator is properly hooked up to the tank and the pipes/hose and is sealed properly is also important. Propane regulators measure the flow of the gas, and have a safety feature that shuts off the tank if the pressure gets too high. If ever you have a bad propane regulator, that may be the issue.

You’ll notice that your propane stove burner might have a yellow, instead of the normal blue, flame. You may also notice popping sounds and/or maybe even soot deposit. These are not normal especially since propane is a clean burning fuel that doesn’t create soot or smoke, like wood fires.

Propane regulators aren’t meant to last forever and have an average lifespan of around ten (10) years. If there’s still no gas flow, you could try to reset the regulator by turning off all all propane appliances to allow the regulator to reset. In the event that you do venture out on your RV during cold weather, a frozen regulator can also be something to look out for.

Does the igniter coil work properly and the pilot flame light up?  

Or does the rv fridge pilot go out.

Assuming the flow of the propane is not an issue and the the fridge pilot light doesn’t light up (or it goes out), there are a few factors to consider. If your RV fridge has an autochanger and the pilot flame light doesn’t work, it could be a problematic igniter coil, or maybe a clogged up flute. If you think it’s the igniter coil, you could try manually lighting the pilot flame.

 If it’s a dirty or clogged up flute (due to dust or any possible sediments from the propane tank or the pipelines), cleaning it should help (see next section). The solenoid can also get clogged from gunk from the gas line, it can be taken apart and cleaned. Another thing to consider is if the control board issue might not be getting the voltage to turn the solenoid on. If ever it’s really cold &/or windy, we all know a lot of RVs aren’t really that well insulated, it may be something to consider while troubleshooting.

Does the quality of the pilot flame look good and steady?

If ever your pilot flame does light up, but it looks a bit lower than usual or dull, it could be one or a mix of any of the following:

• poor propane flow (low propane, air blocks, sedimentation, etc.)
• dysfunctional thermocouple (which is what controls the propane flow)
• clogged/dirty flute, burner tube or orifice inside the flame area
• dirty sensor due to residue &/or rust build up (which confuses the sensor and turns the flame off)
• yellow pilot flame = may indicate soot in the burner & flute which can be cleaned with an air compressor

How do I manually light the pilot on my RV refrigerator?

Your RV refrigerator will come with an operating manual to show how to manually light the pilot flame. Depending on the model of your fridge, if it has manual switch between propane and power, make sure to switch the propane line off if switching to propane before switching to AC power. When switching to propane, make sure the gas knob is on to allow gas supply switch. consistently press the gas supply switch to allow gas in, and click on the striker/igniter a few times, before slowly releasing the gas switch. If this does not work, you could retry a few more times. If the issue is the igniter coil/striker, you can open the small window covering the pilot flame and use a lighter to get the fire started.

Fridge Temperature Problems

My rv fridge gets too hot.

I’ve explained in a previous article that heat is required to get the cooling system working in your RV refrigerator. But, if ever the boiler is warm, and the absorber is very hot, there might be a leak somewhere. If there is an ammonia smell &/or yellow residue outside cooling unit, this confirms an ammonia leak.

Because heat is a by-product of the RV fridge ‘s cooling system, proper ventilation is needed to keep the whole unit working properly. This can become a challenge, especially during summer, since the ventilation system in an RV are just ducts meant to keep water out and passively allow heat to escape but not really allow cool air in.

Poor ventilation at the back of the fridge can be addressed by adding a fridge vent fan which you can easily purchase online, and also evaporator fin fans to help the cool air inside your fridge circulate better (so your fridge doesn’t have to work too hard).

My RV Fridge Won’t Get Cold

If you haven’t used your fridge in awhile, and provided you’ve followed your RV fridge manufacturer’s suggestion to let your unit run the day before using it, and still the fridge won’t get cold, you can try going through the troubleshooting tips in the previous sections if ever you may have not noticed other signs your fridge is showing.

A good thing to invest on is a good thermometer for your fridge since they’re not too expensive and can help detect if there’s something wonky with your thermistor (e.g. too much temperature variation, since it is the one that detects fridge temperature). Other than that, there also could be a blockage in the cooling system (see next section why) especially If your RV is parked on an uneven surface or the fridge isn’t used for awhile, sediments can settle, and even if you move the fridge around, build-up can happen again.

My RV Fridge Take So Long to Cool

Provided you followed the manufacturer’s instructions to turn your RV fridge on at least one day before use to allow it to cool, and it’s still not cooling properly, there could be a one, or a mix of a few reasons your RV fridge would take so long to cool:

• faulty thermostat problems
• fridge is stuffed and/or not enough space for the cool air to circulate
• the diffuser fan isn’t working properly or is blocked by ice or something in your fridge
• problem with the cooling system (fridge is not level, possible leak, not enough power/heat for the to heat the refrigerant, etc.) — refer to the section accordingly

Do check the other sections of this article to see if ever there are any other signs that can also be occurring.

My RV refrigerator isn’t cooling but the freezer works

If the diffuser gets clogged with ice, the evaporatorfan might not work. Do note that the diffuser doesn’t run consistently, but in cycles, so if you’re trying to check if the diffuser works, do wait awhile. Your fridge may also be working on the bare minimum electricity/propane. Check the cooling system at the back of the fridge to see if the system is working properly (refer to the previous sections of this article to check), but also be careful not to directly touch the heating element since it may cause burns.

My RV Fridge Smells Like Ammonia

If you recall the basics of how an absorption refrigerator works, as I’ve mentioned in a previous article , ammonia, together with hydrogen and water, is used as the refrigerant inside your absorption fridge’s closed cooling system. The cooling system should be properly sealed and welded together during assembly to prevent leaks. If the unit is working, but the boiler or absorber is hot, and you smell ammonia, there’s probably a leak somewhere. To confirm this, you can check the back of your RV fridge , and if you see any yellow residue outside the cooling unit confirms this concern.

About Norcold & Dometic Refrigerators

An RV technical adviser explains that even some of the most popular fridges like Norcold & Dometic can fail because of the fundamental setup of an RV fridge’s absorption cooling system’s need to always be on a level surface.

The cooling process starts at the boiler, but this is also where rust pits can occur due to a multitude of factors. The refrigerant inside the cooling system is ammonia, but there’s also hydrogen and water inside the system for the chemical reactions needed for your fridge to work. The ammonia needs to get back into the boiler, but could be a challenge if your fridge:

• isn’t level
• the ambient temperature is too high or low (poor ventilation or it really is just too hot/cold)
• heat source failure in the system
• or winds are too strong that it prevents air circulation

When the ammonia stops rising into the boiler, the temperature rises and the water boils. This now causes an increase in pressure and temperature. Because the liquid reduces, this concentrates the rust prevention chemical on the inside of the boiler causing it to precipitate out of solution and form crystals. Since the internal unit isn’t protected anymore due to the changes in the rust prevention agent, the boiler warps cause cracks and flaking on the inside, which can lead to rust pits.

Preventive Measures: Cleaning & Maintenance

Prevention is always better than the cure, so to make sure this never happens to you, it would be great if you could prepare a checklist of the things that need maintenance on your RV, including a list of things you need to do before, and AFTER the trip (like making sure the fridge is cleaned and left a little open for the air to circulate, and gas/power is off).

• make sure your RV is level, and if possible, make sure to drive on flat roads since emergency pullovers, flat tires, bumpy or steep roads can off-set the cooling system
• Be mindful of the ventilation for your fridge especially if the ambient temperature is too hot or too cold
• Turn the fridge off If driving on steep or uneven roads
• Clean the inside & outside, including the back part and the vents near the access of the fridge, and always clean out fridge at end of use to prevent mold
• Check that there are no loose connections
• a thermometer for your fridge
• Fridge auxiliary/vent fan for your RV roof vent to actively pull out the hot air, allowing the cool air to circulate. Companies like Dometic are offering RV roof fans & vents , but there are so many other options, so do your research as to which one would suit you best.
• Frost Guard Refrigerator Evaporator fin fans to circulate the cool air inside your fridge, so the cooling system doesn’t work too hard. Dometic’s AR-VKIT or
• Fridge Defend by ARP claims to protect the RV fridge by keeping your operating boiler in safe limits by detecting the lack of flow of ammonia and the detecting the temperature increase to prevent the thermal stress and prevent the water from boiling (which would lead to the rust pits)

Hopefully this has helped as a detailed guide to troubleshooting your RV refrigerator. Always make sure you have your RV refrigerator’s Operating Manual / User’s Manual on your RV (or a copy of it). And just in case you can’t find your own manual (if let’s say you got the fridge as part of a second hand RV, or it just got misplaced), you can easily check the internet since some manufacturer’s do put the manuals online.

• ← How Does Your RV Refrigerator Work
• How Does Your RV Electrical System Work →

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Tips for RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting

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It’s never fun discovering that your RV’s refrigerator is on the fritz, especially when you’re out on the road with no access to your dealer or repair service. Luckily, you can often return it back to service yourself with just a few troubleshooting tips.

How to Diagnose RV Refrigerator Problems

Tip 1: verify the refrigerator works in both modes: electric & lp.

First, make sure the unit is level and then determine if it is working at all, or is completely non-functional.

This is best done with a thermometer, although in a pinch you can usually tell by placing your bare hand against the cooling coils inside the main food compartment and freezer.

If your refrigerator is on the gas setting, you can also check the back of the refrigerator to see if the flame is present if it is on the gas setting.

If it is on the electric setting, hold your hand near the heating element area in the back of the unit (but avoid touching as it may cause a burn).

Use thermometers designed for use in refrigerators. It’s best to use one in each compartment.

Tip 2: Check on the Airflow

The cooling effect from most RV refrigerators originates in the freezer compartment and then goes into the main compartment. So, if your freezer is working, but your main compartment is not, you likely have reduced airflow.

What Can You Do?

The fan in the freezer called an evaporator fan, moves cooled air from the freezer into the food compartment through a controlled duct called a diffuser. The diffuser is located at the upper rear center of the food compartment.

1. Listen for the evaporator fan running in the freezer. Evaporator fans cycle on and off so if you don’t hear it, wait a while. In some RVs, refrigerators shut the fan off when you open the door, so listen through the door.

2. Check the diffuser duct to see if it is clogged with ice.

What Do I Do if There is Still No Cooling?

If there’s no cooling, sniff around the refrigerator. Most RV refrigerators are the absorption type, which uses a mixture of water, liquefied ammonia, hydrogen gas, and sodium chromate (the chemical used to line the internal tubes to protect them from the corrosive ammonia) in the cooling coils to transfer heat.

On absorption units, if you can smell the odor of ammonia, the heat transferring coils in the cooling system of the refrigerator have leaked out and will need professional repair or replacement.

At this point, contact an RV dealer to determine which option will be the most cost-effective. Also, check to see if the unit is still in warranty.

Tip 3: Try Operating the Fridge in All Operating Modes

If the unit works on LP gas but not on electric or vice versa, it means the basic cooling unit is intact.

Use a multimeter to check for voltage to the refrigerator.

How Do I Get Full Operational Capability?

For full operational capability, an RV absorption-type refrigerator typically needs 120 Volts AC, 12 Volts DC, and a source of LP gas.

• – Gas is usually the default source of heat for the cooling coils
• – The 120 Volts is the alternate source, typically used when connected to “shore” power in a campground
• – The 12 Volts DC is used for the control circuitry, and in some cases to heat the coils

Note: The following steps are for units that operate on LP gas, but not on 120 Volts AC. Make sure to verify that 120 V AC is available at the back of the refrigerator.

1. First, check circuit breakers and fuses at the panel, then check the outlet at the back of the refrigerator for voltage. A multimeter is recommended, but plugging a blow dryer or other device into the outlet can tell you if the voltage is present.

2. Next, verify that 12 Volts DC is present at the back of the refrigerator. This can be done with a 12 Volt test light or a multimeter.

If both voltages are present and all indicator lamps work, check for trouble codes on refrigerators that have this feature. This can lead you to the problem area quickly and the codes and procedure to read them should be in the owner’s booklet. If that is not available, you can find the information on the refrigerator manufacturer’s website.

3. Next, check the 120 Volt AC electric heating element. A multimeter should be used, but make sure to be careful because the voltage is hazardous. Do this in dry conditions, wear rubber-soled shoes and rubber gloves. If you are unsure of your electrical skills, have this done by a professional.

The wires powering the heating element typically come from the metal enclosure below the cooling unit, accessed from the back of the fridge. Generally, only minor removal of shielding is needed for access and this should be done while the unit is unplugged.

Test voltage while the heating element is connected and powered up. If voltage is detected at one wire but not the other, the element may be burned out. If there is no voltage at the element, the problem may be in the wiring from the refrigerator circuit board, or the board itself. Testing this may require a qualified RV shop.

4. Lastly, if there’s no 12 Volt DC power going to your refrigerator, make sure the batteries are charged and then check fuses and switches.

Three-way refrigerators can operate on 12 Volts DC because they have an extra electric heating element. Test voltage at the heating element the same way as the 120 Volt AC units, but use a low voltage (usually 20) DC mode on the multimeter.

Note: The following steps are for units that operate on 120 Volts AC but not on LP gas. Try to determine if there is a good flame.

1. First check that the LP gas tank has sufficient gas in it, that the valve is on, and any safety devices such as LP alarms have not disconnected the supply.

2. Then switch the controls on for gas burner use. If it lights but goes out quickly, the thermocouple (which detects the heat from the flame and controls the gas valve) may be faulty.

Fix: The thermocouple is attached to the main gas valve in the back of the refrigerator. It has a tube extending toward the gas burner. Usually, they can be replaced by owners with some DIY skills.

Pro Tip: These go bad quite often, so it’s a good idea to carry one with you on trips.

What if the Flame Doesn’t Light At All?

If the flame doesn’t light, vacuum the burner area to the burner port (or jet). Sometimes rust and other debris drop from the vent and blocks the burner unit.

To do this, remove the metal shielding and use a shop vacuum to clean the area near the burner thoroughly. If necessary, push a thin wire into the burner orifice to unclog it. If the flame remains lit, look for flame quality; it requires a well-shaped flame that’s mostly blue.

Tip 4: Use the Old Timer’s Trick

Sometimes, the cooling unit still is charged with the required ammonia mixture, but still doesn’t work.

If it appears that the cooling unit needs to be replaced, consider using an old-timer’s trick, and remove the entire refrigerator and place it upside down for a week or so. This sometimes unclogs them and gets them working again, and all it takes is a little labor and time. What do you have to lose?

Rebuilt circuit boards and cooling units are available for many popular RV refrigerators. If they come with a warranty from a reputable supplier, they can get you back on the road with considerable savings.

Many times it’s something minor that causes your refrigerator to malfunction. By checking these items above, it may be possible to avoid a costly refrigerator repair bill. In other cases, you can at least give the technician a description of what the problem is and be able to make an informed decision about repairs.

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One Response to “Tips for RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting”

I have a Norcold N641R RV refrigerator. When I try to turn it on I get a message (no co) and it will not come on on gas or electric. Can you please help. I live out in the middle of nowhere where I can get to a dealer.

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How To Troubleshoot and Repair Your RV Refrigerator

Taking a few simple procedures will often prevent an unnecessary RV refrigerator repair.

Unbelievably, it’s important to maintain your RV level while it’s parked.

However, routine cleaning and maintenance will also maintain your RV refrigerator in peak working condition.

It will at the very least offer it the greatest opportunity of avoiding needless repairs.

Even if you maintain a pristine refrigerator, age and circumstance might sometimes need some RV refrigerator repairs.

The good news is that you may just be able to do some repairs yourself!

How Does the Refrigerator in My RV Operate?

But first, let’s just take a quick look at how your RV refrigerator works.

Your RV fridge probably differs somewhat from the residential type you’re used to in your house.

The majority of camper and RV freezers use dual-fuel absorption technology.

Unlike a domestic refrigerator, an absorption refrigerator doesn’t utilize a compressor or freon.

Inside the cooling unit, a mixture of water, ammonia, and hydrogen is heated using propane or electricity.

The refrigerator cools as a result of the evaporative action that is created.

RV Refrigerators: Are They Repairable?

Absolutely! Don’t give up if your RV fridge isn’t working properly.

If you’re unable to fix the problem yourself, you may always bring in a specialist to fix your RV refrigerator.

Read on for our troubleshooting advice and advice on how to maintain your refrigerator working in the future, however, before you contact for assistance.

How to Fix Your RV’s Refrigerator

#1. i smell ammonia..

If you open your RV refrigerator and notice an ammonia odor, your cooling system’s evaporator is probably leaking.

Turn off your refrigerator right away, and keep the door closed.

To improve airflow and get rid of the smell, be sure to open your RV’s doors, windows, and vents.

Not a DIY undertaking.

To fix a malfunctioning cooling equipment, you’ll need a professional in RV refrigerator repair.

Read How Long Does RV Warranty Work Take & How to Expedite the Process if your RV is still covered under warranty.

#2. Propane Is What Powers My RV Fridge, But 110V Power Does Not.

A power issue exists if your refrigerator runs on propane but not 110V electricity.

First, check whether a circuit breaker has tripped.

That is the most probable offender and a quick do-it-yourself remedy.

In the electrical compartment of your RV, look for tripped breakers.

If a breaker trips, reset it to possibly restore service.

After resetting a tripped breaker, if your fridge still won’t operate on 110V electricity, there is probably a larger electrical issue at play.

Right now, you could be dealing with a faulty RV control board or electrical heating element.

This sort of RV refrigerator repair will probably need the assistance of a professional at this point.

#3. My RV’s Refrigerator Works With 110V Power But Not Propane.

Imagine your refrigerator is powered by 110V but not by gas.

Usually, it’s a sign that some cleaning is necessary.

The majority of the time, there is an obstruction someplace that prevents the propane from getting to the burner.

Make sure the valve is open and that you have propane in the tank first.

Despite being a straightforward check, we are all sometimes caught off guard by this error.

It’s important to remove any obstructions in the line or the burner itself if the flame at the burner is weak or nonexistent.

The burner unit may be cleaned quite well with a shop vac, but you should always use caution when working near electrical or gas components.

It’s probably time to hire an expert if this doesn’t resolve the issue.

#4. Electricity Problems

For the majority of us, it’s time to contact a pro after you’ve checked for blown fuses or tripped breakers.

It may be fairly dangerous to operate with electricity if you are not experienced.

If you’re unsure of what you’re working with, don’t take a chance!

Repairs For RV Refrigerators

#1. what to do if a cooling unit gets freeze-up.

A frozen cooling system ought to be an extremely uncommon event.

It generally happens if you store your RV for an extended length of time in a below-freezing environment, such as during the winter.

The best course of action is to keep your RV out of frigid temperatures while storing it.

However, if your RV finds itself in these circumstances and the refrigerator’s cooling unit freezes, you may use a space heater or even a high-wattage bulb to gradually warm the refrigerator’s back until the cooling unit thaws.

Just be cautious not to place the heat source too near to any cables and be sure to switch off the LP gas (propane) until the thawing process is complete.

#2. What Happens If Your Refrigerator Is Water Leaking?

If water is collecting in the bottom of your RV refrigerator, one of three things is likely to be the cause: a broken drip pan, a missing or faulty drain fitting, or a blocked drain.

Condensation forms on the inside fins of your RV refrigerator while cooling.

The condensation is collected by the drip pan underneath the fins, which then channels it towards a drain outside of your setup.

The drain pan can be fractured; in that case, either replace it or fix it.

If the drain pan seems to be functioning well, the fitting or hose that the pan sends water through may be damaged or missing.

Make careful to tighten any slack components.

If a component seems to be missing, you really only need a replacement.

Even if everything above seems to be in order, the drain pipe may still be at least partly obstructed.

Your RV often has an access panel on the exterior where the refrigerator is situated.

The stopper at the end of the drain pipe is often where the obstruction is.

Simply take out the plug and clean it so that water may drain from it.

You may need to use a pipe cleaner to clear out the drain line itself if cleaning the stopper doesn’t solve the problem.

#3. How To Repair A Leaking Air Conditioner

Your best option if your cooling unit is leaking is to replace it.

As was already said, a leaky cooling unit is most likely the cause of an ammonia odor or yellow stains coming from your RV refrigerator.

The more skilled DIYers out there may be able to fix this RV refrigerator, but you must use caution.

You are dealing with the cooling system, which comprises a mixture of water, ammonia, and hydrogen as the cooling solution.

Again, call in a professional if you don’t feel at ease with that.

#4. What Should I Do If I Suspect a Sediment Buildup of Ammonia?

Okay, let’s be real: this circumstance is terrible.

Your RV refrigerator may develop an ammonia sediment buildup if you’ve left it idle.

Unfortunately, your fridge is on the verge of death.

If this is the issue, there may not be much you can do in terms of RV refrigerator repair.

If you think ammonia sediment buildup may be present, there is one thing you can do to try to extend the life of your refrigerator.

Plug it out.

Take it out of the camper.

Turn it over on its side.

In the hopes that the silt would move away from the cooling unit, let it rest in that state for at least 24 to 48 hours.

You may delay the inevitable for a time, but eventually a replacement will probably be necessary.

Of course, the ideal course of action is to avoid leaving your RV refrigerator unattended for so long that this occurs.

How to Maintain Your RV Refrigerator

Hold your rv level.

Your RV refrigerator must stay relatively level in order to function properly.

The ammonia liquid won’t flow correctly to the evaporator coils if it isn’t level.

In addition to keeping your refrigerator from staying cold, an unleveled RV may harm its internal parts.

Charge Your Home’s Batteries

Additionally, you should make sure that your home batteries are always charged.

The majority of RV refrigerators include electrical controls that are powered by your home battery.

Even when running on gas, your refrigerator will normally need 12V electricity to light the propane burner.

How to Care for and Maintain an RV Refrigerator

There are just a few distinctions between cleaning the refrigerator in an RV and a house made of logs and bricks.

By identifying problems early, regular, proper cleaning of this device may reduce the need for future RV refrigerator repairs.

#1. Basic Cleaning of an RV Refrigerator

It just takes a little soapy water and labor to clean the interior.

Given how much more regularly products in an RV fridge are jostled than they are in a fixed house, you may want to do it more frequently.

If your refrigerator is a dual fuel RV refrigerator that can operate on LP gas (propane) or 110V electricity, you should also wipe out any vents, the cavity beneath the refrigerator, and maybe the burner and flue.

The majority of this can be done with a shop vac.

#2. How to Get Rid of Mold

Use a solution of 1 cup of bleach and 1 gallon of water to get rid of mold from your RV refrigerator.

Put it in a spray bottle and mist it on the mold; do not immediately wipe it off.

Allow the bleach water to remain for at least 10 to 15 minutes so that the mold may be killed.

Spray vinegar on the mold as an alternative to bleach if you don’t want to use it.

To completely remove the mold, however, it could need more cleaning than just bleach water.

With little to no diluting, vinegar may be sprayed directly onto the mold.

A paste consisting of water and baking soda is another option.

Apply it and let it dry on the mold.

After that, you’ll need to scrape it off and conduct some further cleaning.

Regardless of the method you choose, it’s a good idea to clean the fridge after removing any mold with some warm, soapy water and a thorough rinse.

#3. How to Stop Mold

Making an effort to keep the fridge in your RV clean can go a long way toward preventing any undesirable fungus from growing there.

Use vinegar or a bleach-water solution every other time before doing your usual cleaning if you want to go the additional mile to fight against any hidden impurities.

Increase the Lifespan of Your RV Refrigerator

In conclusion, maintaining a clean fridge and trying to keep your RV level will go a long way toward extending the life of your refrigerator and reducing the need for expensive repairs.

RV Refrigerator Repair Videos Suggestions From Youtube

Updated on May 5, 2023

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Why Refrigerator Keeps Tripping gFCI Outlet

What to do when your refrigerator keeps tripping GFCI outlet (plug). Unless you catch it right away, the refrigerator tripping a GFCI can cause many problems. Not only will your food spoil if not caught in time, but it will keep happening if you don’t find out why it’s tripping in the first place.

There are different reasons why this may be happening. Today we’ll discuss common reasons and how to solve the issues.

What is a GFCI and Why are they used?

Table of Contents

A GFCI, or ground-fault circuit interrupter, outlet is used in areas of the home that are subjected to water. For example, you’ll commonly find them in bathrooms, kitchens, and garages.

This type of outlet exists to protect people from electrical shock, and should not be confused with a house fuse or breaker.

A fuse or breaker is designed to protect your home from an electrical fire . If the hot (electrified) wire accidentally touches a neutral wire there will be an increased amount of current through the circuit and eventually the fuse will blow before a fire starts.

Unlike the fuse, the GFCI is built-in to the outlet itself.

When an appliance is plugged into these outlets, the amount of power going through the device is monitored.

Let’s say a hair dryer is accidentally dropped into a sink of water, the GFCI will detect the interruption in current and cut all power off, possibly saving a life.

Why Refrigerator Keeps Tripping GFCI

When a refrigerator is plugged into a GFCI there are a few reasons it may keep tripping the outlet.

Nuisance Tripping

Most refrigerators with vapor compression have what are called inductive loads.

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When an inductive load is switched off, it can produce electromagnetic interference (EMI). The interference can, and often will, trip a GFCI outlet.

Also, if you’re dealing with a dedicated circuit that just operates the refrigerator in the kitchen, you can simply remove the GFCI outlet and replace with a standard outlet.

Faults Created by Icemaker or Defrost Heater

Some older model refrigerators aren’t equipped with icemakers or self-defrost functions. However, when they are, they commonly trip GFCI outlets.

Most people with these types of fridges suggest using a non-GFCI outlet.

However, if you have no other choice but to keep the GFCI, it’s best to disable these functions within the fridge.

Ground Fault

A ground fault can be caused by damaged wiring or old appliances allowing electricity to take an unplanned path to the ground.

Such shortcuts can move through conductive items such as metal, which can lead to an electrical shock when you touch them.

When a refrigerator plugged into a GFCI detects this issue, it will trip the GFCI to eliminate a potential hazard.

The important thing to keep in mind that removing the GFCI outlet will only hide the problem, not fix it.

When you notice that the outlet trips every several hours, your refrigerator may have a faulty timed defrost circuit in the freezer.

This is common due to melting ice getting into components.

There is no code-compliant way to fix this issue, other than determining what’s wrong with the fridge and fixing the correct part.

Other Items to Keep in Mind

• First, it’s important to note that refrigerators in general don’t get along with GCFI outlets. In fact, they’re not required to be attached to one if they are on a dedicated circuit that’s not shared with any other outlets .
• If your fridge has always been connected to a GFCI outlet and worked, you should begin by replacing the GFCI to see if it simply wore out over time.
• If the fridge in question is in the garage, remember that most garages don’t have dedicated receptacles or circuits for a fridge. If you need to solve this, it will require rewiring and one or more GFCI outlets.

Why Refrigerator Keeps Tripping Breaker

From overloaded circuits to improper grounding, there are several ways a refrigerator can cause breakers to be tripped.

Before running out and buying a new fridge, check these things .

Perhaps the most common reason for a tripped breaker is a circuit overload .

This simply means the circuit is receiving a higher demand for electricity that it can actually deliver.

When this occurs, you should unplug everything else from the circuit except the fridge. This will tell you if the refrigerator is the problem.

If the circuit continues to operate with only the fridge plugged in, keep investigating.

Short Circuit

A short circuit will occur when two wires inside an appliance or outlet touch each other, thus creating a surge of electricity causing the breaker to trip.

If the breaker tripped as soon as the fridge was plugged in, unplug this appliance and try plugging something else in.

If the second appliance you plugged in works, the short circuit is probably inside the fridge.

If nothing works with the outlet, there are most likely wires behind the receptacle cover causing the problem.

Just remember, the issue can also be inside the wall or the breaker box itself.

Why Refrigerator Trips GFCI on Generator

Much the same as a refrigerator can trip a GFCI outlet inside your home, it can do the same when connected to a generator.

Here are the common reasons this happens.

If your refrigerator has a ground fault, it will trip the GFCI on your generator every time.

To stop this from occurring you will need to locate the faulty part inside the fridge or freezer and replace it.

Faulty Generator

Regardless of how new the generator is, it could be faulty.

If your machine is still under warranty, it’s a great idea to try to exchange the current one for a replacement.

There are many people who have faced this same issue, and at the end of the day, it was the generator itself.

Electrical Leak

When the GFCI outlet senses electrical “leaks”, where the current is escaping the device and taking a different route to the ground, it will trip the outlet.

Leaks are commonly caused by dust, defective electrical appliances, water, or worn insulation.

Bond or Ground Jumper Issue

Most generators are made with a neutral ground jumper wire.

If you’re hooking the generator to your house this ground jumper will need to be removed to prevent nuisance tripping.

Since your house is already neutral bonded to the ground, the wire is unneeded.

However, if you ever disconnect the unit from the house and use for other purposes, you will have to re-connect the ground jumper.

Have you dealt with refrigerators tripping GFCIs or breakers before?

What was the problem, and how did you fix it? We’d love to hear your thoughts, comment now and let us know.

Reader Comments (13)

Hey just bought a fancy new Bosch refrigerator that draws 3.5 amps versus the old Kenmore that Drew 7.9 amps. Never a problem with the Kenmore tripping the adjacent GFCI outlet. Now, the brand new Bosch Tripps the adjacent GFCI every 3 to 4 minutes… I don’t understand why this is happening if the draw is significantly lower, Nay, HALF of what it was before? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

Hey just bought a fancy new Bosch refrigerator that draws 3.5 amps versus the old Kenmore that Drew 7.9 amps. Never a problem with the Kenmore tripping the Jason GFCI outlet. Now, the brand new Bosch Tripps the adjacent GFCI every 3 to 4 minutes… I don’t understand why this is happening if the draw is significantly lower, Nay, HALF of what it was before? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

My first time I thought I should have FGCI protect my fridge ,I replaced one a bout a week later were tripped like 3-4 time a week. After red this articles I removed it installed with a standard outlet one its been two days now without tripped.

I am glad for this article! We knew GFCIs don’t mix with fridges, but forgot what the wiring in our house was. Brand new LG fridge, boom GFCI keeps popping. So. Annoying. (Thank you building code idiots. Now they require GFCI stoves to be on GFCI by removing the cap on how big an outlet Amperage. Can you imagine, the dumb thing trips during a Thanksgiving turkey or a cake? Thank God it’s all pre-existing. And we aren’t moving.)

If I lived in CA, I would swap out the GFCI yourself. YouTube it for how to. Put it back before you move. Don’t say anything to anyone. You still have circuit breakers in your fuse box, which will trip.

I am not a lawyer. Not an insurance agent. Not an electrician (husband does it for us). We moved away from a highly regulated area to avoid this crap…oops I mean absolutely critical safety regs from a non-political group so we all are perfectly safe in our daily lives. 😉

Sadly, nothing we can do.

I just bought a new Fridge and I have the same problem as the person above this email. Where can I buy or find a snubber to solve the problem? Also, how can I install it?

“Thanks Jim”

Snubbers come in many forms, and are electro-slang for many kinds of filters.. Most would be internal to a device, so I think what they really refer is a low-pass Line Filter. That is, a device that filters high frequencies from the power both in/out of a device… ideally letting only 50/60hz AC through the 2 current conductors. Most don’t filter the ground (often the metal case) but just the hot & neutral, but a few do. Might wanna google Line Filters & Snubbers a bit. Most line-filters eliminate high freq noise to meet UL regs so devices don’t contaminate the power and screw up another device (conducted radio interference was the classic example).

Comment by John Cline might be fun for a DIY’er to give a try, but suspect the line-filter in microwaves are to meet UL regs for “conducted EMI” (block radio frequencies and up), not prevent nuisance tripping. IF it filters the ground path it may be a source of cheap parts. Would hope someone replies if they try it.

In the end, I suspect no easy fix like some box you insert between the fridge and outlet.

Sorry to say… until refrigerator manufacturers step-up and prevent leakage currents to ground (the main culprit) through better insulation and wire routing, it’s best to find a way to power the fridge on a separate branch circuit without the dang GFI.

Is your fridge outlet GFI the 1st in a string of protected outlets? If so lucky, move the GFI to the 2nd outlet. If not, where better than a garage to learn/practice wiring & drywall repair?

I was forced (by 2017 NEC code) to install all AFCI/GFI Dual-Function breakers in a complete rewire of a 120 year old house. Much nuisance tripping since. Laser printers also trip the new breakers. This breaker technology sounds fantastic and ‘maybe’ OK on new construction(?)… but certainly wasn’t ready for prime-time on retrofits. Thanks NEC.

my fridge started tripping the adjacent gfci receptacle in the kitchen when the defrost cycle started. I found the new hot water recirculating pump by the hot water heater was also on the same circuit (utility room next to upstairs bath). I unplugged the pump and the gfci stopped tripping.

every microwave has a snubber built in that can handle the load of a refrig . but won’t work if the refrig. motor locks up so it needs fuses or a breaker rated for the normal refrigerator load plus 150% all placed in a box between to refrigerator and the outlet plugged in, the code stops at the outlet.

Great article as always. I have an old fridge. It was in my house for years. Moved to garage and it tripped the GFCI receptacle. Plugged it in to a non-GFCI and it ran for months. Just moved it to my daughter’s rented house where all receptacles in her garage are GFCI and it trips them. I’ve googled “snubber” several ways to no luck. Did find lots of “experts” arguing. 🙂 I would like to buy one, but am not sure where to look or what it will even look like. A link, picture, hint, …..anything would be helpful. THANKS!

very helpfull

Hello, I have a new construction house here in California. In the garage I have the hot water heater plugged into a 110 outlet and want to plug my 2nd refrigerator into the garage. The garage is GCFI and the it trips every time I plug the refrigerator in. I have an electrician looking into it now but he doesn’t know how to bypass the code for California. Can someone help me with this?

What about if I just unground(Disconnect) the ground cable from mi fridge GFIC outlet and keep using it? will it work and stop tripping?

Comments are closed.

Thermal Fuse Dometic Rv Refrigerator Reset: Like a Pro

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Is your Dometic RV refrigerator acting up? Could a faulty thermal fuse be the culprit?

This article will guide you through the process of resetting the thermal fuse in your Dometic RV refrigerator.

No more guesswork or costly repairs— just simple steps to get your fridge up and running again.

Are you ready to dive in and tackle this common issue head-on? Let’s get started!

How to Reset the Thermal Fuse in Your Dometic RV Refrigerator?

Resetting the thermal fuse on your Dometic RV refrigerator is very easy. Follow these steps to restore it to working order.

Step 1: Gather the necessary tools

To begin, make sure you have the following tools handy: a screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, depending on your refrigerator’s model) , a multimeter (for testing continuity), and a replacement thermal fuse (if needed) .

Step 2: Disconnect the power

Before tinkering with any electrical components, it’s crucial to ensure your safety. Start by disconnecting the power source to the refrigerator.

Switch off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the refrigerator or unplug the power cord.

Step 3: Access the thermal fuse

To access the thermal fuse, you’ll need to remove the refrigerator’s access panel. Locate the panel, which is typically situated at the back or bottom of the unit.

Unscrew the panel using your screwdriver, being mindful not to lose any screws.

Step 4: Locate the thermal fuse

With the access panel removed, you’ll now have a clear view of the internal components.

Look for the thermal fuse, a small device typically shaped like a cylinder or a rectangular box.

The thermal fuse is designed to protect the refrigerator from overheating.

Step 5: Test the thermal fuse

Using your multimeter , set it to the continuity testing mode. Gently touch the multimeter probes to the thermal fuse’s terminals.

If the multimeter indicates a lack of continuity (i.e., no electrical flow), it means the thermal fuse has blown and needs to be replaced.

If continuity is present, the thermal fuse is not the cause of the problem, and you should investigate other potential issues.

Step 6: Reset or replace the thermal fuse

If the thermal fuse has blown, it’s time to reset or replace it. Some models have a reset button on the thermal fuse itself.

If your refrigerator has this feature, press the reset button firmly to restore the connection. Not all models include a reset button.

In such cases, you’ll need to replace the thermal fuse with a new one.

Step 7: Install the replacement thermal fuse

Make sure you have the right replacement part if you need to replace the thermal fuse.

Carefully remove the old thermal fuse by disconnecting any wires or connectors attached to it.

Install the new thermal fuse in the same position and reconnect any wires or connectors.

Step 8: Reassemble and test

Once you’ve either reset or replaced the thermal fuse, it’s time to put everything back together.

Secure the access panel using the screws you previously removed. Double-check that all connections are secure and properly attached.

Finally, plug the power cord back into the electrical outlet or switch on the circuit breaker.

Step 9: Monitor refrigerator functionality

After resetting or replacing the thermal fuse, monitor your refrigerator’s performance closely.

Allow the refrigerator to run for some time and ensure that it is cooling properly. Check that the temperature remains stable and that the refrigerator is functioning as expected.

If the problem persists , you may need to consult a professional for further assistance.

Symptoms of a Faulty Thermal Fuse in Your Dometic RV Refrigerator

No power or cooling.

When your Dometic RV refrigerator fails to power on or cool effectively, a faulty thermal fuse may be to blame.

The thermal fuse acts as a safety device, shutting off power to the refrigerator if it detects excessive heat.

If the fuse is blown, it disrupts the power supply, leading to a complete loss of functionality and cooling capability.

Tripped Circuit Breaker

If your Dometic RV refrigerator’s circuit breaker keeps tripping, you may have a thermal fuse problem.

A thermal fuse blows, creating an electrical imbalance, causing the circuit breaker to trip, preventing further damage.

Overheating Refrigerator

A faulty thermal fuse can cause your Dometic RV refrigerator to overheat. Excessive heat may be observed around the refrigerator’s compressor or the back may feel unusually warm.

In the case of a malfunctioning thermal fuse, the refrigerator can’t regulate its temperature properly.

Inconsistent Temperature

Control If your Dometic RV refrigerator experiences erratic temperature fluctuations , it could be due to a faulty thermal fuse.

A blown fuse disrupts the refrigerator’s ability to maintain a steady and desirable internal temperature.

It is possible to spoil your food or beverages while traveling if they are not properly cooled or frozen.

Burnt or Damaged Fuse

Physically inspecting the thermal fuse is another way to identify a fault. If you notice a burnt or damaged thermal fuse, it’s a clear indication that it needs to be replaced.

Any signs of discoloration, melting, or visible damage suggest that the fuse has blown and is no longer functional.

What affects the thermal fuse performance on a Dometic RV refrigerator?

Here are some factors that can affect the thermal fuse’s performance:

Overheating:

The thermal fuse is designed to protect the refrigerator from excessive heat. It can overheat if the cooling system fails, or if the condenser coils are dirty and obstructed.

The refrigerator can be shut down if this increased heat blows the thermal fuse.

Electrical Surges:

Sudden electrical surges or fluctuations in the power supply can impact the thermal fuse’s performance.

These surges can cause the fuse to blow, cutting off power to the refrigerator as a safety measure.

Using surge protectors or voltage regulators can help mitigate the risk of electrical surges and protect the thermal fuse.

Age and Wear:

Like any electrical component, the thermal fuse can experience wear and tear over time. Aging components can become less reliable and more prone to failure.

If your Dometic RV refrigerator is several years old, the thermal fuse might be more susceptible to issues.

Regular maintenance and inspections can help detect any signs of wear and replace the fuse as needed.

Excessive Current or Faulty Wiring:

Electrical problems, such as loose connections, frayed wires, or excessive current , can affect the thermal fuse.

These issues can lead to irregular electrical flow and cause the fuse to blow or malfunction.

Incorrect Installation or Replacement:

Improper installation or replacement of the thermal fuse can also affect its performance.

Dometic RV refrigerators require the correct fuse specifications, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Incorrect installation or using a fuse with the wrong ratings can lead to premature failures or inadequate protection.

How to Maintain Your Dometic RV Refrigerator’s Thermal Fuse?

Dometic RV refrigerators require a thermal fuse for proper operation. The following steps can help ensure the thermal fuse’s optimal performance and reliability:

Keep the Refrigerator Clean:

Regularly clean the interior and exterior of your Dometic RV refrigerator. Remove any food debris, spills, or residue that may accumulate over time.

Clean the condenser coils once or twice a year to prevent dust and dirt buildup, which can lead to overheating.

Check for Proper Ventilation:

Adequate ventilation is crucial for the refrigerator’s cooling system and the thermal fuse’s performance.

Ensure that there is enough space around the refrigerator for proper air circulation.

Avoid blocking the vents or obstructing the airflow by placing items too close to the unit. This helps prevent overheating and ensures efficient cooling.

Monitor Temperature Settings:

Keep an eye on the temperature settings of your Dometic RV refrigerator. Excessive cold temperatures can cause the thermal fuse to activate unnecessarily, leading to frequent shutdowns.

Conversely, extremely high temperatures can put a strain on the thermal fuse and other components. Set the temperature to the recommended levels for optimal performance.

Protect Against Power Surges:

Power surges can be damaging to electrical components, including the thermal fuse. Use surge protectors or voltage regulators to protect your Dometic RV refrigerator.

These devices help stabilize the power supply and protect sensitive components from potential damage.

Regular Inspections:

Periodically inspect the thermal fuse for any signs of damage or wear. Look for discoloration, melting, or visible damage .

To maintain proper protection and functionality, replace blown fuses immediately.

Professional Maintenance:

Schedule regular professional maintenance for your Dometic RV refrigerator.

An experienced technician can inspect, clean, and address any potential thermal fuse or other issues.

You can detect and resolve problems before they escalate by performing professional maintenance.

FAQs About Thermal Fuse Reset in Dometic RV Refrigerators

Can i replace the thermal fuse myself, or should i seek professional help.

If you’re comfortable working with electrical components, you can replace the thermal fuse yourself.

However, if you’re unsure, it’s best to consult a professional technician.

Are There Any Precautions I Should Take Before Resetting Or Replacing The Thermal Fuse?

Before working on the thermal fuse, always disconnect the power source to ensure your safety. Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to it.

How Often Should I Check Or Replace The Thermal Fuse In My Dometic RV Refrigerator?

The thermal fuse doesn’t require regular replacement unless it blows or shows signs of damage. It’s a good idea to inspect it during routine maintenance or if you experience issues.

What Other Components Should I Inspect If Resetting The Thermal Fuse Doesn’t Solve The Problem?

If resetting the thermal fuse doesn’t resolve the issue, you may need to examine the control board, wiring connections, cooling system, condenser coils, or other relevant components for any potential problems.

Ensure uninterrupted cooling in your Dometic RV refrigerator by resetting or replacing the thermal fuse.

By following the simple steps outlined in this guide, you can troubleshoot common issues and restore functionality.

Don’t let a blown thermal fuse spoil your adventures—take control, reset it yourself, and keep your food fresh on the road.

Enjoy worry-free travels with your fully operational Dometic RV refrigerator!

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The Savvy Campers

What to Do If My RV Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping and How to Fix It?

Whether it is the beginning of the season or the end of it, the circuit breaker in your RV could trip. It’s the last thing you want, especially if you are in the middle of a trip. It is even worse when your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping. Understanding why it is tripping is key to fixing it.

If your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping, you need to locate the circuit breaker. It may be tripping because of blown fuses, power draws, electrical issues, or because of an issue with the circuit breaker itself. Once you find where the issue is coming from you will be able to fix the issue.

A circuit breaker in your RV that keeps tripping can be a sign of a serious issue, but it can also be an issue that you can fix yourself.

What to Do If Your RV Circuit Breaker Is Tripping

If you notice that your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping, then you need to take a look at what is possibly causing the issue. Sometimes it is a simple fix.

You should take note as to how often your circuit breaker is tripping. If after you reset the circuit breaker, and it still trips, you will need to take a closer look at what is causing the issue.

An RV circuit that continuously trips is a sign that too much electricity is being drawn from the system, or also known as a circuit overload. Remember, a circuit breaker is a safety feature. It prevents further issues from occurring by stopping the electrical currents before they get too hot or dangerous.

So what do you do if your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping? First, you need to:

●     Understand the circuit breaker.

●     Locate the circuit breaker.

●     Understand all the appliances in your RV

These may seem like simple enough things, but they can go a long way in fixing your circuit breaker of your RV.

Understanding the RV’s Circuit Breaker

The first thing you need to do, if you have not already, is to understand the circuit breaker in your RV.

In your RV there are numerous electrical appliances. Some of them may include:

●     Lighting fixtures

●     Air conditioners

●     Refrigerators

●     Microwaves

●     Water pumps

This is not a comprehensive list, but it offers an idea of what is feeding energy into the circuit breaker. All these appliances, and several others, are attached to the circuit breaker.

As mentioned before, the circuit breaker acts as a safety measure. When there is a large power draw or a short circuit, the circuit breaker switches off. This immediately stops the electrical current, which prevents further damage, such as fire. Essentially, when you use too much electrical power (like when you use all the appliances simultaneously) the circuit breaker will trip.

The circuit breaker has a map. You need to be cognizant of what appliances are linked with which breaker switch. Everything inside the circuit breaker should be labeled. This will make it easier to troubleshoot your issue later on.

Locate the RV’s Circuit Breaker

The circuit breaker is a major part of the electrical system in an RV. When your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping it is a sign of something wrong. The most common way to know if your circuit breaker is tripping is when certain appliances do not work suddenly. The electricity has been cut off to these appliances.

When your RV circuit breaker trips, you need to locate the circuit breaker. However, some people do not know where it is located. If a power outage were to happen at night, you want to know exactly where the breaker is to avoid any other issues that may arise in the dark.

Where the circuit breaker is located depends on the model RV you own. Some models may have a circuit breaker panel behind the cabinets or the refrigerator. You may also find the circuit breaker behind a bed or most of the time in plain sight.

In other models, the circuit breaker may be located outside of the RV. The best way to locate the circuit breaker is to reference the owner’s manual that came with the RV. You will know the circuit breaker when you see it. It has a little door, and inside you will see the switches that are connected to all the appliances in your RV.

Once you have located the RV’s circuit breaker, take note as to what switches are clicked off or in the tripped position. If labeled properly, this will tell you exactly what part of your RV is causing the short circuit.

Understand All the Appliances in Your RV

This may seem simple, but it is important nonetheless. You should have an understanding of what appliances are active in your RV. You should remain cognizant of what is running and what is not.

This is an important part of the troubleshooting process. The problem may just be that you were running too many appliances at once and this caused the RV circuit breaker to trip. You need to remain mindful of how you utilize the appliances in your RV.

If you have a 30 amp RV, you cannot run the water heater, air conditioner, and a hairdryer at the same time. Most of the time for high draw items like this you can only run one at a time depending on the wattage.

It is also important to know how much energy each appliance takes. This does not mean you need to know specific wattage, but it is important to know if the appliances use a lot of energy or not.

Why is this important? It is important because then you will be able to make informed decisions on how you use your appliances so that you can avoid, to the best of your ability, future shortages in your circuit breaker.

How to Fix an RV Circuit Breaker

You have experienced a tripped circuit breaker, and you have located the circuit breaker and understand what appliances are likely to blame. Now what? How do you fix an RV circuit breaker that keeps tripping?

You need to troubleshoot the issue. For example, it could be something very minor. Possibly you were running your air conditioner on high at the same time you were using other appliances. In the summer, it can be difficult to not use your air conditioner. An easy fix would be to simply turn the air conditioner off while you need to run the other apliance, which would use less energy.

If your RV circuit breaker just needs to be reset, this can be done by following a few simple steps:

●     Look for a switch that is turned off to the side. You will notice a switch that is different from the rest. This is the one you are looking for. It may even have a red sticker to show it is off.

●     The switch that is off to the side is connected with a certain appliance. This should be labeled.

●     Turn off the appliances. You should unplug and turn off any appliances whose correlating circuit breaker switch is toggled off. This is a safety precaution. You do not want to get electrocuted.

●     Push the tripped switch toward the off position before switching it to the on position. In some circuit breakers, this is necessary. It is better to remain cautious and do this so that you do not need to repeat any steps.

●     Turn on the appliances. Now that the circuit breaker has been reset, you can turn on the appliances.

You should wait a few minutes. If the breaker does not switch off then it has been successfully reset. However, if the RV circuit breaker keeps tripping then you have discovered a different issue.

There are several reasons why a circuit breaker may trip again. This can range from electrical issues to blown fuses.

Why Does an RV Circuit Breaker keep tripping after being reset?

There are many reasons why an RV circuit breaker keeps tripping. The biggest culprit is a faulty appliance. As mentioned above, resetting your circuit breaker can give you great insight into what is causing the issue. It could just be you need to replace an appliance.

But what else can be causing your RV circuit breaker to trip? There are three basic things you can be looking for:

●     Blown fuses

●     Short circuits

●     Electrical Issues

These issues can point to why the circuit breaker has tripped. Moreover, a circuit breaker trips as a safety precaution to protect you and your RV from electrical damage.

Blown Fuses

A fuse is used for both types of electrical energy: AC and DC currents. Fuses are similar to circuit breakers in that they act as a type of safety precaution. A fuse is blown to protect the RV when something goes wrong.

If you noticed that your circuit breaker has tripped, you should check the fuse box. If you notice that there is a blown fuse you need to replace it.

Make sure you get a proper replacement fuse. Fuses are not interchangeable, so be sure you are getting a like-for-like replacement. Once you have inserted and replaced the burned-out fuse, the energy should flow properly. If not, there may be a larger problem.

Power Draws

As mentioned earlier, faulty appliances can be blamed for a lot of RV circuit breakers tripping. But why?

A faulty appliance can draw too much energy. Think of the appliance as a leech. It continuously draws electricity, but when it is faulty it is drawing more than it should.

Each RV has a limit as to how much energy it can use. When an appliance is drawing more than it should it is throwing off this limit and probably exceeding it. This is when the breaker will trip.

Additionally, when you use too many appliances at the same time can have the same effect. This can also draw too much energy, which will push you over your RV’s limit and cause the breaker to trip.

Be sure to remain cognizant of what appliances you are using and how you are using them. A power draw is a simple issue to fix. You just need to reset the breaker and either replace the faulty appliance or use discretion with how you use your appliances.

Electrical Issues

There could also be electrical issues within the RV itself. There could be loose wirings somewhere inside the RV. Additionally, if your system runs with a 12-volt system, there may be something wrong there. An interruption in the 12-volt system can cause the RV circuit breaker to trip.

When your travel trailer is rattling down the road, wires can become loose and cause a short circuit. It may be time to call an electrician if you are not familiar with how a 120v system works.

Here is how you can check your 12-volt system to see if there is any issue:

●     Check the fuse. Sometimes a fuse problem does not mean the fuse has blown. The fuse could be loose.

●     Check the connections. Make sure the connections between the breaker and the circuit breaker panel are tight. If they are loose, they could be interrupting the 12-volt system.

●     Check the batteries. Your batteries’ connection may be loose.

●     Check the connections on the converter.

If your troubleshooting does not illuminate an issue then either the issue is located elsewhere, or there is a problem with your converter, which should be seen by an expert.

The RV Circuit Breaker Could Be the Issue

Over time, the RV circuit breaker will wear down. It is like any other appliance. A circuit breaker that has been repeatedly tripped over time is the most likely to give out.

If your circuit breaker continually trips and has been doing this for quite some time no matter how many times you troubleshoot it and “fix” the issue, then the issue may be the circuit breaker itself.

However, it could also be a minor issue with the circuit breaker. There could be corrosion on the reverse side of the breaker. Make sure all units are off before checking.

Reset the Ground Fault Indicator

Your RV may have a Ground Fault Indicator (GFCI). This unit works similarly to a circuit breaker. It will cut the power off if too much power is being used or if a circuit becomes unsafe. Resetting a GFI is easy because it has a reset button on its unit that just needs to be pressed.

If you suspect that you need to reset the GFI then press the reset button. If this fixes your issue then you are all set.

When to Call a Professional

Oftentimes, most issues can be fixed without needing a professional. When an RV circuit breaker keeps tripping, you should troubleshoot the issue yourself. You can get a lot of information by troubleshooting the issue yourself, which can be helpful later on if you decide you need a professional to help.

So, when do you need to call a professional to help fix your circuit breaker? The answer comes down to the specifics of your situation.

If you go through all the methods and troubleshooting options already mentioned but still cannot find a fix to your problem, then it may be time to call a professional. Moreover, there are certain times when getting a professional is necessary:

●     Testing the circuit breaker. If you believe there is something wrong with the circuit breaker itself, then it may need to be tested. However, testing a circuit breaker is not a task someone who is not knowledgeable of electricity should undertake, as there are live wires that need to be avoided. Circuit breakers are safe, like under $10. Just replace it if it is questionable.

●     Replacing the circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker needs to be replaced, a professional will need to be called. The whole unit needs to be removed and replaced, and you need to know about the installation and electrical components for this to be done smoothly without accidents.

The last thing you want is to get electrocuted. It is important to know your limits. If you do not know what you are doing when it comes to the more complex fixes, it is important to call someone who does.

When you are working with electricity, you need to use extreme caution. If you touch the wrong components, forget to turn off the right switch, or any other combination of minor mishaps, it could cost you your life. Always use caution and discretion when working with the electrical components of your RV.

If your RV circuit breaker keeps tripping, it could be a simple fix. The most important thing to do is to troubleshoot your issue. Make sure you understand how the circuit breaker works in your RV and how it is set up for each appliance.

Once you know where the issue is, you can begin to eliminate probable causes. Check the fuses, the appliances, the circuit breaker itself, the 12-volt system, and the GFI. You may find that the issue is minor and can be fixed quickly and on your own.

However, remember that electrical issues are no light subject. Be sure to use caution and when in doubt, call a professional who has the knowledge and expertise to fix your issue without any fear of injury or further issues.

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Refrigerator Keeps Tripping Breaker: Troubleshooting Guide

A refrigerator will lose power from a tripped breaker, sometimes for hours before you realize it. Obviously, a reoccurring problem like this needs attention. 

Why a refrigerator keeps tripping a breaker? The primary causes of a refrigerator repeatedly tripping a breaker are:

• an overloaded circuit
• a short circuit
• a ground fault surge

All of these problems can cause fires and/or electrocution if not properly addressed. 

This article will first outline the mechanics of circuit breakers, outlets, and refrigerator components. Next, we will discuss just what the main circuitry problems are telling you. And finally, we will walk you through a step-by-step troubleshooting guide and give solutions to the most common reasons your refrigerator is losing power. 

Mechanical and Electrical Components

Let’s start our discussion with the mechanical and electrical components involved in circuit breakers, outlets, and basic refrigerator mechanisms that can be involved in circuit breaker tripping. I will start at the breaker box.

Circuit Breaker: Circuit breakers are attached to all of the wiring in a building or home and act as safeguards against power surges and other electrical issues.

Whether from constant, slow heating, or from a sudden power surge, the circuit is designed to break the current when it is overloaded. 

Wiring Basics: Three electrical connections make up the standard appliance wiring that connects to your home’s electrical system. The hot wire carries the 120 volt current to your appliance and the neutral wire serves as the return path in the circuit. These run through the 2 thinner prongs on power cords. 

The third prong connects the ground wire, which is simply attached to the metal casing of the appliance. This ground wire will take the 120 volts if the hot wire shorts, causing an extremely high current that trips the breaker.

The ground wire is incredibly important because, without it, the entire appliance can become one big shock hazard ( source ).

GFCI Outlet: A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter works like an ultra-sensitive circuit breaker. The appliance is plugged into the outlet, and when even a few amps of surge are detected, the circuit within the outlet will trip.

These outlets are used in bathrooms and other areas where water is present for protection against electrocution. They protect someone from electric shock should a short circuit or ground fault occur. 

Refrigerator Defrost Heater: The defrost heater is a resistance element located in the evaporator compartment to melt ice built up on the coils of the refrigerator. It is attached to a timer and thermostat that work to regulate the temperature and cycling of the defrost heater and compressor ( source ).

Refrigerator Compressor: The compressor works as both a motor and a pump, moving refrigerant throughout the system coils to cool the temperature in the fridge. It is the powerhouse of the appliance and the most expensive component to replace. 

What Is Happening in My Circuitry to Cause Tripping?

It is important to have an understanding of what is happening in the circuitry. Circuit breakers trip to stop the flow of electricity and indicate that something is going wrong. Figuring out where the problem lies can save property and life. 

• Overloaded Circuit: An overloaded circuit occurs when too many amps are running through the same wiring. Residential code allows 20 amps per circuit (source). If more amps attempt to flow through a circuit, this can cause overheating and power surges that damage wiring and appliances. 
• Short Circuit: A short circuit occurs when the hot wire (wire with electricity flowing though it) contacts the neutral wire. This causes too much heat as electricity surges through the wires. You may notice a burning smell or burnt wiring. 
• Ground Fault Surge: A ground fault surge occurs when the hot wire and the ground wire connect. This also causes overheating and can discolor the area around the outlet. 

Pro Tip: You can use a circuit breaker finder (link to Amazon) to quickly identify which circuit breaker is powering the refrigerator.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide 

Now that you have an idea of how the components work and basic circuitry issues, I want to walk through all the different reasons for a refrigerator tripping a circuit breaker and what to do about them.

I will start with the most obvious, simple fixes and work up to the more complicated problems. 

• Check the GFCI outlet: If you have lost power to your refrigerator, and it is plugged into a GFCI outlet, the outlet may have tripped due to nuisance tripping. GFCI outlets are very sensitive and designed to trip at slight surges.

However, most fridge manufacturers do not recommend plugging into a GFCI outlet and they are not required for appliances ( source ).

Why? Refrigerators require a large amount of power to begin their cooling cycles—and very often trip GFCI outlets. See this video for more information:

If you do have a GFCI outlet and it has tripped, reset it. If the outlet now works, you can eliminate the GFCI outlet as the problem. Move the plug to a different, non-GFCI outlet. Moving to a different power source may be the end of your issues.

Note: GFCI outlet tripping should not also trip a circuit breaker in your breaker box . If that has happened, keep exploring. You have a bigger problem and should keep troubleshooting to the next step.

• Power cord inspection: This may seem like a no brainer, but damage to the refrigerator power cord can cause short circuits. Unplug the cord and inspect the length of the cord for worn insulation, crushed wiring, or indication of animal damage (such as rat chews). If you see any damage where the wires inside are exposed, the cord needs to be replaced. Many people suggest wrapping it with electrical tape but I don’t recommend this. If no damage, move to step 3. 
• Inspect the prongs of the power cord: Are they rusty, loose, or broken? If so, you could have ground fault surges or faulty connections that are causing power surges. Replace the plug unit or the whole cord system. Power cord intact? Move to step 4.
• Check for an overloaded circuit: If multiple appliances are plugged into the same circuit, it could become overloaded, especially when the refrigerator compressor starts. Try plugging the refrigerator into another outlet, maybe even in another room to ensure it is attached to a different circuit. I’ve done this by running an extension cord to another room when troubleshooting. If the refrigerator is able to run its cycles with no tripping, you may need to figure out what other appliances are normally attached through this circuit and eliminate them. Refrigerators should be on a dedicated circuit when possible . I will tell you that I always place all appliances on their own circuit. Not only does this help prevent overload, but it also greatly reduces the number of potential causes when troubleshooting.

Make sure electrical power is disconnected before performing steps 5 and 6. If you aren’t knowledgable about electrical, hire a professional.

• Inspect Outlet: In addition to checking for an overloaded circuit, inspect the power outlet where you normally plug the fridge for damage. Remove the receptacle cover and look for loose or burnt wiring. If there is no visible damage, test wires with an ammeter. Faulty wiring in the outlet can cause short circuits and ground faults. Replace the outlet if necessary. Still no issues detected? Move to step 6.
• Breaker Box Inspection: If you have discovered no damage to the power cord or outlet, check the breaker box itself. Circuit breakers can wear out or suffer damage from water or pests. Inspect the breakers—does anything look corroded, cracked, or worn? If you suspect damage at the breaker box, replace the suspect circuit breaker or call an electrician. If all looks well at the box, return to the fridge itself. 
• Check wiring on refrigerator unit: Unplug the fridge and pull away from the wall. Remove the rear paneling and inspect and test wires for loose or faulty connections. If nothing is obvious, move to step 8.
• Test defrost heater: The most common internal component to fail in a refrigerator is the defrost heater. Thankfully, it is a relatively inexpensive part to replace. To troubleshoot it, reset the timer (usually changed with a screwdriver) so that you can force the defrost cycle to begin. If the breaker trips shortly after the cycle begins, then the defrost heater is either water-damaged (a common problem), causing a ground fault, or short-circuiting from insulation damage. Replace the defrost heater, a reasonably simple DIY project. If the defrost heater seems to be functioning properly, move to step 9. 
• Compressor Check: If nothing else has been pinpointed as the problem for the reoccurring circuit breaker trips, the compressor is probably at fault. When the compressor winding begins to fail, the extra power load normally needed to start winding doesn’t stop after a few seconds. The extra power overloads and trips the breaker. Refrigerator compressors are expensive fixes. You can call an appliance mechanic for repairs, but you are probably better off purchasing a new unit to replace what you have. Recommended Reading: What Appliances Are Worth Upgrading? Here’s The Math!

Circuit breaker tripping can be a an annoying problem, but it is also an indication of potentially dangerous electrical issues within your home. To protect your property and family, it is imperative to address the recurring problem.

If your refrigerator loses power from a circuit breaker trip, realize that most circuit breakers trip from overloaded circuits, short circuits, or ground fault surges . By investigating all of the components between the unit and the circuit breaker, you can usually pinpoint and solve the problem. 

As a homeowner, I am constantly experimenting with making the structure of my house more energy-efficient, eliminating pests, and taking on DIY home improvement projects. Over the past two decades, my family has rehabbed houses and contracted new home builds and I’ve learned a lot along the way. I share my hard-learned lessons so that you can save time and money by not repeating my mistakes.

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Journey With Confidence

Tech Tips: Breaking Down Breakers

• Maintenance, Modifications and Repairs

Maybe the end of summer is the time when circuit breakers like to take vacations. We ran into two separate incidents of RVers with circuit breaker issues within two weeks of each other. Since breakers seldom act up, when one does “go gunny bag,” it can be a bit of a mystery for RVers. Let’s take a short look into the world of these voltage interrupters.

Breaker Basics Your RV “shore power” system is somewhat similar to your stix-and-brix cousin’s. Electrical power flows into the rig through a distribution panel. Once at the panel, the power flows to various shore power circuits through circuit breakers. These breakers act as safety valves, if you will, protecting the wiring of each circuit from overloads. For example, say a piece of equipment shorts out, the breaker detects the overload, and instead of allowing the wiring to become red hot (and likely start a fire), the breaker “trips” and stops the flow of current. Unlike a fuse, the circuit breaker is generally resettable, and once the problem is cured—in this case the equipment is unplugged—power to the circuit can be restored with the flip of a lever.

At the outset, we like to warn folks that electrical breakers should not be used as “switches” for circuits. Circuit breakers are designed as safety devices, and flipping them off and on like you would a light switch can lead to premature circuit breaker death.

We say circuit breakers are generally resettable because they can be damaged or wear out, at which point they’ll need to be replaced. We’ll come to that in a bit. First, let’s talk about how to reset a tripped breaker.

Resetting Tripped Breakers If an RV breaker trips, you’ll generally know it because the power to whatever you were using will simply stop. For one of our recent acquaintances, a European couple traveling through the states in a rented motorhome, a long, hot summer night without air conditioning signaled their problem. We were able to help them with the fix.

First, you’ll need to locate your breaker panel. It’s a good thing to know where it is in advance, so when you need to check breakers, you won’t be in the dark (figuratively or literally) as to its location. In many recent RVs, the shore power circuit breaker panel is combined with the low-voltage fuse panel under the same lid, often attached to the power converter.

Next, look at all the breakers in the panel. You’ll be looking for one that’s leaning off to the side, or has perhaps a red flag in a window on the breaker. The leaning or flagged breaker is the one that’s tripped. Before attempting to reset the breaker, TURN OFF or unplug any equipment or load on that circuit.

Next you’ll reset the breaker. What can be confusing for some is this: You’ll often need to push the breaker lever toward the off position before flipping it back to the on position. If you don’t, it may not reset.

If the breaker immediately trips off again, it generally signals a fault in the wiring to the circuit—this is one reason you’ll want to disconnect or turn off everything on the circuit before attempting to reset the breaker.

With power restored to the circuit, begin to plug back in and/or turn on equipment on that circuit. If the breaker trips immediately when you flip something on, you’ve identified a defective piece of equipment. If power continues to flow, all the better.

Now here’s the caveat: In the case of our other RVing friends with recent breaker problems, the tripping breaker served their air conditioner. They’d reset the breaker and all would be well—for a few minutes. Then the breaker would trip out again. Obviously there was no “dead short” or gross overload, which led to the suspicion of a bad breaker. Partially contributing to their problem, however, was that they didn’t turn off their air conditioner before resetting the breaker. With the heavy load of the cooling unit, they may well have contributed to the demise of their breaker, which is why we gave our earlier warning about not using a breaker like a switch.

Circuit Breaker Testing Breakers can wear out, or simply give up the ghost. Those that have been repeatedly tripped are often ones that finally give up the assignment and simply refuse to carry their rated load of current. Testing a breaker in the panel is not a job for the foolish; you’ll need to take the cover panel off, and touching the wrong thing can be harmful, if not deadly. If you’re at all unsure of your safety, take your rig to a qualified repairman.

Carefully remove the cover plate from over the circuit breakers. Each breaker clips into an electrical bus bar, which supplies shore power to the breaker. It’s CRITICAL that you not touch a live bus bar—here’s the serious injury or death issue.

At the other end of the breaker you’ll find the wire that leads to the circuit served by that breaker. With your electrical multimeter set to AC volts (set to 130 volts or more) touch one probe to the terminal screw on the breaker and the other to the terminal block where the circuit neutral wires come together—these will all be white wires. Assuming the breaker is set in the on position, if the meter reads no power, the breaker is defective.

But what if it’s one of those, “runs a few minutes and trips” situations? With all electrical loads “off” on the circuit, trip the breaker back and forth from on to off a few times. The lever should move through crisply without feeling “mushy.” Turn off loads on another working breaker, and run it through its paces for a comparison. A breaker that’s “wearing out” may tell the tale by how it “feels.” If in doubt, it may be best to simply replace the breaker.

Breaker Replacement When replacing a breaker, for safety’s sake, disconnect your RV from shore power. Don’t run your generator, and if your rig automatically connects to a power inverter, make sure that’s turned off too. You want ALL power to the circuit panel turned off.

With the panel cover removed, grasp the breaker and rock it in the direction of the wire end of the breaker. You may have to rock it several times to get it to loosen, and then give it a firm yank. It may require a bit of muscle to do this, but typically the breaker will “give,” starting at the “wire end” and then slide out of the bus bar. Now remove the wire by loosening the terminal screw.

You’ll need to replace the breaker with an identical one. In RVs, you’ll often find that the “name” on the breaker may vary, but these breakers are often made by the same outfit, and then have a different label slapped on it. Some breakers have more than one lever and hence, serve more than one circuit. If one side of the breaker conks out, the other will keep working, but you will still need to replace the entire breaker. In the typical home, both sides of such a dual breaker will be of the same value, but not necessarily so in an RV. You can often get a suitable replacement breaker for a single or double of the same value at the hardware store, but if you can’t find what you need, by all means, visit an RV supplier.

To replace the breaker, insert the wire into the terminal, and firmly tighten down the screw. It’s not a bad idea to check to make sure that wires to each of the breakers are firmly snugged up—a loose connection can lead to failure, even a chance of fire. With the wire in place and snug, slide the “head” end of the breaker back into its clip and firmly push the rest of the breaker into place. n

Russ and Tiña De Maris are authors of RV Boondocking Basics—A Guide to Living Without Hookups, which covers a full range of dry camping topics.  They also provide great resources in their book, Camp Hosting USA—Your Guide to State Park Volunteering.  Visit www.icanrv.com for more information.

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Why Does My RV AC Breaker Keep Tripping & How to Solve It?

Writen by Tom Hank

Fact checked by Joseph Varney

An RV air conditioner that frequently turns off might require you to look at other areas other than the cooling unit. Sometimes, the suspect to this problem is the RV circuit breaker keeps tripping. Now you’re wondering “why does my RV AC breaker keep tripping?”

The reasons why an RV air conditioner trips breaker varies for each camping vehicle. It could be a short circuit, weak circuit, or overloading of the switch. Keep reading to know more details about each of these potential causes.

Table of Contents

What Causes an RV AC Breaker to Trip Repeatedly?

If an RV AC keeps tripping the breaker, the main suspect can come from different sources. These problem areas include:

Short Circuit

Sometimes connected wiring can become damaged from other DIY projects for your RV. For example, you drill a hole in your camper’s wall and hit a wire that connects the circuit breaker to the AC.

For that scenario, the wiring will have a short circuit, causing the camper air conditioner tripping breaker. Replacing the faulty wire and securing the connection may help solve this issue.

Weak Circuit

Circuit breakers can degrade over time. For example, you have a 20-Amp breaker that brought you good service for many years. However, turning on the RV air conditioner keeps tripping breaker.

It’s because the switch can now only handle 30% to 50% of its original capacity. Swapping the old circuit breaker with a new model should restore optimal function to the cooling system.

Overloading the Circuit

For example, if the circuit is rated at 20 Amps, it will generally function well at about 80% of its maximum load. The switch will automatically trip or shut off the electrical load that goes over that mark to save the RV AC and other appliances from damages.

Take note that RV circuit breakers can run at a 20-Amp load, albeit during a reasonably short period. At this point, you have two options: (1) Reduce electronics usage or (2) upgrade to a high-load circuit like a 30 or 50-amp variant.

You may also watch the video below for a further explanation of these causes:

How Do You Stop Your RV AC From Tripping the Breaker?

The solution to the problem of camper AC keeps tripping breaker depends on the source of the issue. For example, if faulty wiring is the cause, fixing the connection from the switch to the AC can solve the problem.

However, if troubleshooting the circuit breaker yielded no satisfactory results, the problem could be your RV’s air conditioner.

Inspect the appliance to see if it has issues like a malfunctioning part. If it does, you may need to bring the cooling unit to a certified technician. Otherwise, prepare to spend money to purchase a new AC for your RV.

What Are the Signs of a Bad RV Breaker?

A bad RV circuit breaker may affect different devices in the vehicle, including the lighting, refrigerator, and other appliances. Some of the signs that point to a bad breaker switch are:

• Flickering lights in the RV
• Poor performances with connected electronics
• Appliances turning on and off without human intervention
• Burning or foul odor from the breaker panel
• Frequent circuit breaker trips

If you experience one or more of these events happening in your RV, consider upgrading the vehicle’s electricity service panel. Doing so can increase the board’s circuit capacity, along with improving its safety features.

Where Is the Breaker Box in an RV?

The breaker box is usually near the fridge, the bed, or a cupboard. You may also find the panel on the wall.

How Do You Change an RV AC Breaker That Keeps Tripping?

Before proceeding, make sure that you know what you are about to do. You should be confident about doing the following steps. Otherwise, consult the expert help of a licensed technician to avoid costly mishaps.

• Step 1: Find the source of the problem that is causing the circuit breaker to trip.
• Step 2: Turn off the main power from your RV and on the main breaker panel.
• Step 3: Remove the front plate of the panel by unscrewing the attached screws. Take note that the plate should be removed from the bottom.
• Step 4: Push the faulty circuit breaker down and pull it out of the panel.
• Step 5: Remove the screw in the malfunctioning switch using a flathead screwdriver.
• Step 6: Take the circuit breaker to the hardware store and buy an exact model. Don’t use another type of switch if you already have the correct breaker size.
• Step 7: Locate the screw in the new circuit breaker.
• Step 8: Take the wires from the panel and slide them into the new switch. Secure the connection by screwing it with the flathead screwdriver.
• Step 9: Push the bottom of the new circuit breaker into the panel. Once the bottom clicks, push it up and the switch should be attached properly.
• Step 10: Put the metal plate back in place.
• Step 11: Turn on the main breaker and test the connections.

Keep in mind that the inside of a circuit breaker panel is usually quite dark. Use a flashlight to shine a light on the parts to ensure you are working with the correct components.

You can also watch the video below for a visual representation of the steps mentioned above.

How to Troubleshoot an RV Air Conditioner?

If you deduce that the problem is not with your RV’s breaker panel but with the AC, here are some tips to help you find the cooling unit’s main issue:

• Check the capacitors if the AC compressor has difficulty starting. The capacitor may be using too much electricity; in this case, replace it.
• Check other connected appliances to check if adequate power is being supplied by the breaker panel.
• Open the RV AC to investigate any shorts in the motor.
• Do not repair a malfunctioning RV AC compressor but replace it.
• If ice is building up in the AC, the appliance might be low on Freon. This leads the AC to use more power, causing the breaker to trip.
• The AC’s coils are dirty if condensed water drips from an unusual location.

Why does my RV ac breaker keep tripping? An RV AC breaker can trip because of different issues, such as circuit overloads, short circuits, or faulty switches. You should troubleshoot your RV’s circuit breaker panel and the vehicle’s cooling system to check for damages. Some signs to look out for are:

• Poor performance from the AC
• Other appliances malfunctioning
• A burnt stench coming from the air conditioner or breaker panel

Proceed with repairing the AC or the breaker if you have a decent amount of knowledge about electronics. Otherwise, you should seek professional help to fix the problem.

Hi, I am Joseph. Carpe diem! Seize the day! That’s always been my life motto. If you haven’t seen some of the most beautiful places in the country, you are missing out on incredible adventures.