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Everything You Need To Know Before Visiting Turkmenistan | A Complete Travel Guide

By Author Christian L.

Posted on Published: December 22, 2021  - Last updated: April 2, 2022

Categories Central Asia , Destinations , Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is the strangest and the least explored of all the six countries in Central Asia. It’s also one of the least visited countries in the world, with less than 10 000 foreign tourists a year. This unique country is hard to get entry to but what awaits is a world of intrigue and an experience that will leave you with memories for a lifetime. 

With that in mind, here is a complete travel guide to Turkmenistan to get you prepared and ready, with a few Turkmenistan facts and strange laws to go along with it. 

During my visit to Turkmenistan so did I travel around a significant part of the country for eight days, visiting big parts of the country doing this itinerary: Ashgabat – Nisa – Geok Tepe – Kov Ata cave – Nokhur – Parau Bibi – Balkanabat – Yangy Kala Canyon – Turkmenbashy – Ashgabat – Darvaza Gas (The Gates To hell) – Ashgabat.

Getting to Turkmenistan

Officially, foreign tourists are welcomed, but the requirement for expensive guided tours and a lengthy and difficult visa process discourage many foreign visitors from visiting Turkmenistan.

Getting to Turkmenistan is the hardest part of the trip. There are no online bookings for flights with the national airline yet, so tickets can only be purchased through an agent. You can also only fly into Ashgabat city as this is the only port of entry for international arrivals and departures. 

To Turkmenistan with flights

There are only a few international flights to Turkmenistan, with only Turkish Airlines and Lufthansa being the international airlines flying into Turkmenistan. However, the local Turkmenistan Airlines offers international flights to London, Birmingham, Dubai , Bangkok , Beijing, Paris, New Delhi , Amritsar , Moscow, Saint Petersburg , Jeddah , and Minsk. NB. Since the outbreak of Covid, all international flights to Turkmenistan have been canceled.

Visa for Turkmenistan Travel

The visa process to gain entry to Turkmenistan is strict, to say the least. Probably the most difficult visa in the world. A tourist visa for Turkmenistan is only possible to obtain with help from a local Travel Agency, meaning you will have to book a guide and a tour, but the good news is with a pre-booked trip, are you able to get the visa on arrival at the international airport in Ashgabat. Once you get the invitation letter, so will it only take about 2 min to get your visa at the airport. If you are traveling overland, so it is possible to get a 3 or 5-day transit visa for Turkmenistan on your own without  too much difficulty. But over the recent years, rejections have become an estimated 50% rejection rate.

The most up-to-date information about Turkmenistan visas can be found here .

Registration in Turkmenistan 

After all the red tape that you have to jump through to get into Turkmenistan, you will have to register your stay with the local Migration officials upon arrival, and every city you stay in during your visit. This is only for those who manage to obtain a visa on their own, though. If you go with a tour agency, then they should take care of this for you. 

Best Places to Visit in Turkmenistan

During a visit to Turkmenistan, you can travel around a significant part of the country for eight days, and this is the best itinerary for it.

Ashgabat 

The capital city of Ashgabat is an odd place that once had elements and influences of Soviet Russia. This all changed when the new President took over. He demolished the older Russian structures and created all-new buildings made of white marble. 

One thing that’s a little creepy is that the city is very quiet, to the point where it almost feels like it’s abandoned. It is because of this that the city has the nickname ‘the city of the dead by many foreign tourists, however, I did really like Ashgabat.

Take a while to explore all the marble and gold buildings and take a trip to the Gates to Hell outside of the city. 

Just outside of Ashgabat is the ancient city of Nisa, also known as Parthaunia. This massive city was the first capital of the area and dates back to 250 BC. The fortress within the city was made a UNESCO Heritage site with Parthian remains discovered inside of it. 

It is believed that this was the Arsacid Empire’s first seat. It was an immensely important trading center for the Parthian Empire and was also famous for its incredible horses that were both beautiful and fast. 

Kov Ata Cave

One of Turkmenistan’s natural wonders, this cave dives down to around 59m/195 feet underground and has a naturally heated lake at the bottom of it. You can actually swim in this lake with the waters believed to have medicinal powers; thanks to the thermal heat of the lake, the lake is 35+ warm.

Oh, the cave is also home to an immense number of bats that will circle overhead while you are in the lake. Be aware that the lake is really deep, while there´s a small platform to stand on, so is it often crowded with locals, so you should be able to swim to enjoy the lake. You should only spend a maximum of 20 minutes in the lake and 45 minutes in the cave in total because of the sulfur fumes. But nobody checks.

There´s a small changing area at the lake, but the whole area is really dark without any safety guards or life jackets if someone gets into problems in the water.

NB. The place is absolutely not wheelchair available or for people with a bad knee.

This little area is very remote and has an interesting set of beliefs as they credit that they are descendants of Alexander the Great. The inhabitants speak a different dialect which other Turkmen struggle to understand. 

They are known for their odd customs and their work ethic. They are a rich little village with new cars being a pretty common sight.

This is a beautiful area to hike with the several different villages that make up the area being within walking distance. Take to the trails past the swimming areas and waterfalls and bask in the nature around you. 

But most people that visit Nokhur, come here for the Nokhur cemetery. A pretty strange site. The graves at Nokhur cemetery are marked by the horns of mountain goats, point to burial rites steeped in animism, sprinkled with Zoroastrianism. The goat horns are believed to fight off evil spirits, while the stones are marked with steps, to help the deceased ascend to heaven.

The white Parau Bibi mausoleum is a pilgrim site and shrine to the patron of all pregnant women and infants. Women from across Turkmenistan will gather here and ask for help when needed. This is an amazing area to visit and one that will leave a lasting impression. 

This city is the capital of the largest region in Turkmenistan but also one of the youngest. It’s famous for being where the oil and gas for the country were found. Here, you’ll take a step inside modern Turkmenistan, with all the interesting structures and also having a very small amounts of people. 

Yangykala Canyon

The Yangykala Canyon is an often overlooked or forgotten place that most Turkmenistan people haven’t even seen themselves. It´s a real off-the-beaten-path destination in Central Asia. This natural attraction is something to behold, with sights of yellow, red, and pink rock contrasting the sharp canyon walls. 

It is even possible to camp on a plateau there overnight so you can wake up to the solitude in the desert. 

Turkmenbashy

Sitting on the edges of the Caspian sea , Turkmenbashy is a port city that offers a link to Baku from either railway or by taking a ferry. Just outside of the city is a smaller area of Awaza, which happens to be an insanely popular holiday destination of the country. 

This area has a strong Russian influence and overall a very luxurious and more high-quality environment. For those looking to relax in luxury while in Turkmenistan, this is the place for you. 

What is Turkmenistan Famous for?

The first thing that comes to mind about Turkmenistan is its interesting government, but there is more when it comes to tourism in Turkmenistan so let’s take a look. 

Darvaza Gas Crater

The famous ‘ Gate of Hell’ is in Turkmenistan . Locally known as the Darvaza gas crater, it is a man-made crater in the desert that is continuously on fire.

The Gate of hell Turkmenistan was created by mistake in 1971 when a Soviet drilling rig accidentally punched into a massive underground natural gas cavern.

This caused the ground to collapse and the entire drilling rig to fall in. You can still see the old metal pipes sticking out of the ground in the crater.

Almost 50 years on, and geologists still have no idea how much longer it will burn for. It might die out tomorrow, or it might burn for another 100 years; nobody knows.

Taking a trip to see it at night is a must when the fires flare up and give a stark contrast to the sheer darkness of the desert.  

Silk Road Cities

The ancient city of Merv is one of Turkmenistan’s Silk Road contributions. It is a massive urban center that is the largest on Silk Road. This is an oasis of a city that is a UNESCO site, with another city, Kunya-Urgench, being another UNESCO site. 

The City Center is Made of Marble

Ashgabat is unique in that a majority of the structures and public areas are built with white marble. It actually holds a Guinness World Record for having the highest density of buildings made of marble in the world. 

There are no big billboards with commercials anywhere in the city, and best of all, there’s no Starbucks, no KFC, no Mcdonalds, etc. Only small, locally owned businesses here.

But the few tourists that make it to Ashgabat will see a city that is extremely well-organized with an easy bus system, and it’s also probably the cleanest city anywhere in the world. Dirty cars are not even allowed in the city.

What Language do They Speak in Turkmenistan

An interesting fact about Turkmenistan is that it has three spoken languages and only one written one. Uzbek, Russian, and Turkmen are the different languages that you can speak while in Turkmenistan. 

Turkmen is a member of the Turkic family of language. It is very similar to Turkish and is spoken in seven different dialects throughout the different provinces of the country. The sole written language, however, is Turkmen, so brushing up on a few key phrases is recommended. 

Things You Should Pack to Visit Turkmenistan

Your luggage will depend on what time of the year you are planning to travel. If going in summer, you can expect high temperatures, so lightweight and breathable clothing, as well as your swimsuit, is essential. Winter is the complete opposite, and multiple layers of clothing that are also waterproof are needed. 

For women, even though it is technically an Islamic country, it has a complicated relationship with its views, and so it’s not an unacceptable thing for you to show skin. Turkmenistan is, in fact, one of the most liberal Muslim countries in the world.

Essential medication is also a must as while there are pharmacies in major cities where you can get the basics, there is no access to any form of medication outside of these major areas. 

However, don´t expect much shopping in Turkmenistan, while there’s a big fancy shopping mall with “everything” in Ashgabat, so is there not much when it comes to shopping outside the capital. Maybe the best thing to buy in Turkmenistan is locally woven carpets which are among the best in the world.

Trips to Turkmenistan Information

When it comes to tourism in Turkmenistan and planning your trip, there are a few things that you need to know to make sure that you are fully prepared for what lies ahead of you. 

Getting Around Turkmenistan

If you make your own way into the country, then you only really have a train or taxi to use to get around.

If you go with a tour guide, then you should be taken around in a 4×4 vehicle while exploring the country. There are buses, but there aren’t many at all. 

All three of those options are pretty cheap ways to get around, but winter does have an impact on the transportation system with interruptions to power supplies. The trains and buses are also slow, but at least they are reasonably comfortable. 

But the fastest and cheapest way to get across Turkmenistan is by flying; domestic flights in Turkmenistan with the local airline Turkmenistan Airlines are subsidized by the government, making Turkmenistan probably the cheapest country in the world for local flights. My flight from Turkmenbashy to Ashgabat was only 7 USD.

Money in Turkmenistan

The Manat is the main currency of Turkmenistan, while a single Manat is made of 100 Tenne. It is worth remembering that there are not that many ATMs at all. Don’t bank on using a card either, as cards will rarely be accepted by any store.

There are currency exchanges throughout, and they will happily change US Dollars and Euros into local Manat at a fixed rate and take no commission. They love to exchange US Dollars and prefer them, so bring various low denominations in cash, which you can exchange as you need in a small discrete bag . 

The notes need to be in near perfect condition for them to be accepted, as any marked or damaged notes will not be accepted. You will be expected to settle your hotel bill in cash with US Dollars if you won’t use a credit card. All other payments will have to be made in cash. 

NB. Changing money on the black market, (strictly illegal) will give you a much, much better rate, often three times the official rate.

Internet in Turkmenistan

Don’t expect too much internet while you visit Turkmenistan. The connection has always been a struggle, but the state also has strict laws on internet access and is heavily filtered. When you do gain access, your online activity will be monitored, and a large number of websites are blocked from access. If you thought the Great Firewall China or the internet in Eritrea was strict, then you haven’t been to Turkmenistan, even with a premium VPN, so was about every social media still blocked and unavailable, even WhatsApp, telegram, etc. was impossible to log into, even with a VPN. In general, there is wifi in the higher-end hotels in Balkanabat, Turkmenbashi, and Ashgabatand at most one old-school internet cafe in each city. But even in the high-end hotels, so is the internet connection extremely slow.

If you are looking for a social media or internet detox, then a Turkmenistan holiday isn’t a bad idea while exploring this unique country.  Because while the first day it´s pretty frustrating with not being able to connect to the outside world, but after a few days, it feels actually good.

Safety in Turkmenistan

In general, Turkmenistan safety is considered to be good and a safe place to explore, but there are consequences of breaking the law. It is an authoritarian state and not widely known as a tourist hotspot. And criticizing the President is a serious offense. The standard safety precautions should be carried out as there is a crime, just like in any other major city. 

Seeing as that almost all sales are cash-driven, be careful with the amount that you carry on you at any given time and keep it in a discreet place. Going out alone, especially at night, is not recommended as the police can get a little suspicious. Also, don’t take any photographs of the military or any government buildings and markets.

And be aware there´s secret police everywhere, personally so did I get stopped 3 times by the secret police, once for taking a photo of the University in Asgahbat, the central market and just for walking down a random street, however, while the secret where polite, so are they strict and not open for discussion.

Electricity in Turkmenistan 

Surprisingly, there is plenty of access to electricity throughout Turkmenistan, with most of the population receiving gas and electricity for free. However, it is pretty inefficient, and there have been reports of various problems with the supply of electricity. There are even problems with the heating in Ashgabat, not a nice thing to have to endure while visiting in winter. 

The older power stations are heavily impacted by the weather so expect frequent blackouts in both the colder winter months and also in the warm summer months. Ensure that you always keep a bottle or two of water on you as the electricity going out in Ashgabat causes issues with the supply of water as well. 

Drinks and Alcohol in Turkmenistan

Although it is a predominantly Muslim country, Turkmenistan is still somewhat liberal around the consumption of alcohol. There are, however, quite a few strict laws in Turkmenistan around the sale of alcohol. But is not often strictly enforced. About every restaurant and shop in the country offers at least beer. But to the surprise of many, so do Turkmenistan, produce their own, beer, vodka, wine, and brandy. Mainly that it cannot be consumed on public transport or in public areas of any kind. Beaches, forests, and elevators, as well as at any sporting facilities, are a few other areas.

There is also a ban on the sale of alcohol on weekends from establishments that are not either bars or restaurants. But this rule doesn´t seem to be very strictly enforced. And there´s no shortage of bars and restaurants anywhere in Turkmenistan, so you don’t have to worry about staying “dry”. Beer is insanely popular and the drink of choice for almost everyone, even though it is pretty low in alcohol percentage. For all the wine lovers, there are some amazing local wines.

The Turkmenistan people also make stunning Brandy, and even vodka, believe it or not. Start your night off over a few bottles of Tac Premium beer, and then maybe sample some brandy after that. 

When Will you Travel to Turkmenistan?

There are surely a ton of interesting facts about Turkmenistan. But, if you are ready to pay the high price and go through the hassle to obtain a visa, Turkmenistan has a lot to offer. From three historical UNESCO World Heritage sites, two of the strangest natural sites in the world, and a one-of-a-kind capital covered with white marble. 

There are gold statues and a lot of obscure monuments and strange architecture to add even more reasons to travel here. So the question remains, when will you travel to Turkmenistan?

Thursday 23rd of December 2021

Thx for the report. I have been twice in Turkmenistan ( 2006 and 2017). strange but interesting country to visit.

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63 Great Things To See and Do in Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan has astounding natural sights and deep, deep historical roots. The desert is full of fascinating creatures and it has fostered a living folk culture steeped in Sufi traditions.

The downside? Because of the many restrictions for tourists, it’s difficult to actually see or do many of these things. On the plus side, Turkmenistan’s strange government has created a whole new category of “weird tourism”, and that is on display everywhere.

We ranked ideas based on how easy they are to complete – first is easiest, last is most difficult.

Table of Contents

Natural sights

• Lean into the gas crater of Darwaza in the desert twilight
• Swim in the underground cave of Kow-Ata
• Explore the ancient Tethys Sea: drive through the colourful Yangisuw canyon and camp at even more spectacular Yangykala canyon
• Track dinosaur steps in Kugitang national park and relax at the sulfur springs
• Get splattered by the large Getpatlavuk mud volcano

Weird & dark sights

• Try to use the internet
• Be astounded by the sacrilege of the Kipchak mosque  and visit Turkmenbashi’s final resting place
• Go to a fancy restaurant and get spied upon
• Take the Walk of Health and wonder how healthy that can be
• Hunt for remainders of Turkmenbashi’s rule: Rukhnama books, golden statues and vodka bottles
• Have a conversation with a local
• Attend one of many strange celebrations dedicated to flags, horses, melons, …
• Descend into the Garashor depression and ponder the madness of the desert Golden Age Lake

Historical sights

• Visit the remains of the Parthian stronghold of Nisa
• Take a day to visit the left-overs of once-proud, ruined Konye-Urgench
• Get the full tour of the ruins of Merv , once the largest city on earth
• Seek the foundations of Zoroastrism at Gonur Depe
• Visit the Bronze Age archaeological site of Margush
• See real Silk Road ruins at Dekistan
• Admire the craft of the Persian fortress of Nadir Shah
• Delve into the Ekedeshik cave settlement
• Learn more about the ruins of Izmukshir and Ismamut Ata
• Trace more of the withered Silk Road on the way from Ashgabat to Mary at the ruins of Namazga Depe, Ulug Depe and Altyn Depe
• Dig further into Parthian history at the atmospheric sites of Anau and Abiverd
• Do a historical tour of the northern desert, with visits to the Mausoleum of Ashyk Aydin Pir,  the fortress of Diyarbekir, Shasenem shrine and Gyaur Kala
• Visit the mausoleums in Sarakhs, and get out to the Silk road ruins around the town at Gurukly Depe and Mele Hairam

City life & museums

• Be blown away at the sight of Ashgabat, the White City, stroll the deadly streets and visit the weird landmarks
• Amble through the market in Turkmenbashi and discover its ethnic diversity
• Take a ride in the world’s biggest indoor ferris wheel or enjoy Ashgabat’s amusement park
• Taste the many varieties of dairy Turkmenistan has to offer at the Russian bazaar
• Visit the Carpet museum
• Find out where the life is, in Old Ashgabat
• Go wild at Ashgabat’s Sunday horse races
• Visit the Geok Depe mosque in Ashgabat on a Friday

Village life & folk culture

• Put on a fuzzy telpek hat for the ultimate photo-op
• Learn about Sufism and see how it has permeated every part of Turkmenistan’s society
• Admire women’s traditional dresses and dance at a wedding party
• Accept the invitation for a massive shared meal at the Sufi shrine in Merv
• While away the hours in the mountain villages of Nokhur and Murche and peel away their many layers
• Check out carpet weavers at work, and discover the other Turkmen crafts: jewelry, silk weaving and embroidery
• Don’t settle for kebab and ask for yarma (wheat groat stew), chekdirme (lamb rib stew), semeni (wheat sprout pudding), pumpkin filled flatbread (gutab),…
• Buy a carpet
• Meet the village people in Erbent, Dokurbok or the isolated Damla oasis
• Feel the spirits at the pilgrimage sites of Gozli Ata, Kemal Ata, Parau Bibi, Ersari Ata and Meane Baba
• Help set up a desert yurt
• Milk a camel
• Learn to play the dutar

Outdoor activities, fauna & flora

• In the Karakum desert, take a closer look to find it teeming with life
• Walk in spring in the tulip fields of the Kopet Dag mountains at Badkyz national park
• Ride an Ahal Teke horse
• Sample one of Turkmenistan’s many types of pomegranate on a hike through the Sumbar valley
• Watch Caspian seals frolic in the polluted waters of the Caspian
• Watch wildlife in the harsh Kaplankyr reserve by 4WD or camel
• Spot a Persian leopard in the Hasardag nature reserve
• Try to spot a Bukharan deer in the Tugay forests of the Amu Darya reserve
• Stay overnight at Repetek nature reserve and discuss life as it is with the rangers
• Stay at the beach resort of Avaza
• Stay at a Soviet-era sanatorium

Things to do in other Stans

• Things to do in Kazakhstan
• Things to do in Uzbekistan
• Things to do in Kyrgyzstan
• Things to do in Tajikistan
• Things to do in Turkmenistan

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About Tourism in Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan tourism is growing and this unique country is a fantastic destination for adventurous travellers and “ dark tourists ”! In this article, we will look at the best places to visit in Turkmenistan and its unique tourist attractions!

Turkmenistan isn’t what you would consider a typical tourist destination, in no small part thanks to the country’s tightly controlled borders and paranoid government. However, for a little effort, the country will reward you with one of the most unique travel experiences you can have!

Does Turkmenistan even want Tourists?

Turkmenistan is not reliant on tourism for income thanks to its vast wealth from the Caspian oil fields and the sector remains very much in its infancy. As this report shows, the government seems unconcerned with increasing tourist visitors to the country. This means if you are looking for a unique destination that few others visit, Turkmenistan should definitely be at the top of your list!

Turkmenistan’s Strange Laws

President Saparmurat Niyazov (1940 – 2006), also known as Turkmenbashi, or leader of the Turkmen, ruled the country from 1985 until his death in 2006.

To say Niyazov was a little unorthodox in his ways would be something of an understatement! Like Ghaddafi, he penned his own “little green book” which was required reading in schools and by all government officials.

This book is called the Ruhnama and is a mixture of folklore, tyrannical musings and dodgy poetry. There is a large sculpture/statue of the Ruhnama in Ashgabat which opens at certain times of the day!

Niyazov/Turkmenbashi was famous for instituting some very strange laws. Here are a few of the things he made illegal in Turkmenistan:

• Long hair on men

And it gets stranger still… Did you know that Niyazov renamed the months and days after himself and renamed bread with his mother’s name!

Smoking in Turkmenistan

Since Niyazov was ordered to stop smoking by his doctors, he reasoned that if he can’t smoke, neither should anyone else in the country.

Smoking is highly illegal across the entire country except for a few very specific places, such as outside restaurants and bars.

Smoking on the street is highly illegal and could land you in a Turkmen jail, so don’t spark up unless you are sure you are allowed!

There is a curfew in force across Turkmenistan from 11 pm every night. If you are caught out on the streets after this time you can face possible arrest and imprisonment.

If you arrive late at night, then this should not be an issue if you go direct to your accommodation (I arrived well after midnight thanks to delays with the Baku – Turkmenbashi ferry and customs emptying our bags).

Turkmenistan Tourism – Photography

Given the paranoid nature of Turkmenistan, you should be careful about when you have your camera out.

Do not photograph near government buildings, police or army checkpoints. The problem is, Ashgabat is mainly government buildings, police or army checkpoints! Always ask your guide (or the soldiers/police nearby) if taking photos is allowed.

Outside of the city things are a little more relaxed (well, because it is mostly desert), however you must still avoid pictures of any official buildings including railway stations and airports.

Bugs (Listening Devices)

It is more than likely that your hotel room will be bugged. Refrain from discussing anything political or critical of the country while in your hotel.

Places to Visit in Turkmenistan – Cities

Most of Turkmenistan (90% in fact) is covered by the sun-scorched Karakum Desert. There are however plenty of interesting places to visit in Turkmenistan such as the shiny capital Ashgabat, the Darvaza Gas Crater and much more!

1. Ashgabat

Turkmenistan’s capital has to be seen to be believed. It is one of the most bizarre cities in the world thanks to its spotless and empty streets, white, marbled buildings and golden statues.

There is plenty to see in Ashgabat from Independence Square to the Ashgabat Museum, Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque and even a giant folding statue of Niyazov’s little green book, the Ruhnama.

Ashgabat was all but rebuilt after a devastating earthquake destroyed the city in 1948 killing 110,000 (including President Niyazov’s parents) and raising much of the capital to the ground.

From the city, you can see the Kopet Dag mountains which separate Turkmenistan from Iran less than twenty kilometres away.

2. Konye Urgench

The ancient Timurid settlement of Konye Urgench has been excellently preserved and is definitely one of the best places to visit in Turkmenistan. Here you will find the thousand-year-old Kutlug Timur Minaret that stretches a whopping 60 metres into the desert sky!

The ruins of Konye Urgench are a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site and include the minaret, mosques, madrasas and mausoleums. The ancient city is one of the top Turkmenistan tourist attractions!

3. Mary/Merv

Turkmenistan’s fourth-largest city was (and still is) a Silk Road oasis within the Karakum Desert. It is famous for the nearby ancient ruins of Merv, the one-time largest city on earth!

The city had a population of over 1 million during the twelfth century and was an important Silk Road trading post. The city was founded in the 3rd Century BC and was ruled at one time by Alexander the Great.

4. Turkmenabad (Turkmenabat)

Turkmenabad, formerly known as Turkmenabat, is Turkmenistan’s second-largest city after Ashgabat.

The city is an industrial sprawl with nothing of antiquity remaining. Unless you will be travelling to or from Uzbekistan via the Farab border, it’s not really worth seeing as a tourist destination.

That being said, one of the more interesting things to see is the pontoon bridge that crosses the Amu Darya (Oxus) River here (though don’t try and take any pictures as the bridge also encompasses an army checkpoint).

5. Turkmenbashi

If Turkmenistan is the world’s emptiest capital, then Turkmenbashi must be the world’s emptiest coastal resort town. Unless you are arriving by boat from Azerbaijan , there is not much reason to come this far west.

The city is on the shores of the Caspian Sea with large, palatial hotels lining the beaches. There are theme parks and restaurants and shopping malls. There aren’t any people though! When I stayed the night in one of the grand hotels, my friend and I seemed to be the only guests. It was beyond spooky and the strangest hotel breakfast experience ever!

Yerbent is a small village in the middle of the Karakum Desert. There isn’t a lot here aside from a couple of buildings, rusting soviet jeeps, a few yurts and the local camel population. It makes for an interesting pit stop when travelling between Ashgabat and Darvaza.

Places to Visit in Turkmenistan – Tourist Attractions

7. darvaza gas crater “the door to hell”.

Probably the most famous Turkmenistan tourist attraction, the Darvaza Gas Crater is a large, fiery pit in the middle of the desert. In 1971 the soviets drilled for oil and instead came upon a natural gas field. They decided to burn the gas off, thinking it would extinguish itself soon after, but it has been burning strong ever since!

Most tours of the country include the Darvaza Gas Crater as a highlight, and this is definitely one of the best places to visit in Turkmenistan! It’s possible to camp on a ridge above the crater so you can take in the scene as the sun sets and watch it light up the night with a barbeque and vodka!

8. Kow Ata Underground Lake

Kow Ata is home to a mineral lake and hot springs around 90km from the capital Ashgabat. The lake is located 60 metres underground and is warm year-round. It is very popular with locals who come here to relax with a bbq and usually a few shots of vodka!

As well as a great place to relax, Kow Ata is also home to Central Asia’s largest bat population and is an impressive geological structure of itself. Definitely one of the more interesting things to do in Turkmenistan.

9. Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

As you can probably tell by its name, this mosque was constructed for President Niyazov/Turkmenbashi, and as such caused a lot of controversies. Included within the walls are scriptures not only from the Koran but also from the Ruhnama, which greatly angered the Saudis!

The mosque, which is located in Gypjak on the outskirts of Ashgabat, is massive and can hold up to 10,000 people at any one time and was completed in 2004.

10. Ashgabat Cable Car

One of the best Turkmenistan tourist attractions is the Turkmenbashi Cableway, also known as the Ashgabat Cable Car. The cableway goes from the city up into the Kopet Dag Mountains to a height of 1,290 metres (4,200 feet) offering fantastic views of the city. One of the best things to do in Turkmenistan for sure!

11. National Museum of Turkmenistan

The national museum of Turkmenistan is located in the capital Ashgabat and contains three main displays; natural history, science, and of course, President Niyazov/Turkmenbashi!

The museum costs a whopping $30 for entry, so unless you have a burning desire to learn more about Niyazov, it’s not really worth the entrance fee.

12. Independence Square

Here you will find the gold statue of President Niyazov alongside warrior Turkmen, the independence monument and a series of landscaped gardens and fountains.

13. Ruhnama Monument

A giant, mechanised version of President Niyazov’s little green book located in the west of Independence Park, Ashgabat. Definitely one of the more interesting places to visit in Turkmenistan.

14. Kutlug Timur Minaret

A 60m (197 foot) minaret located in the ancient settlement of Konye Urgench. The minaret was built in 1011AD under the Khorezm/Khwarazm empire.

Visas for Turkmenistan

Visas for Turkmenistan are notoriously difficult to get and applications are routinely refused with no obvious reason. When I went, the tour company applied for four visas, and only two were granted (my friend and I were the lucky ones).

Turkmenistan Transit Visa

The Turkmenistan Transit Visa is valid from 3 to 7 days (usually 5 is given) and you must enter and leave the country at different border crossings; you CANNOT return to where you came from. You don’t need a letter of invitation (LOI) for the transit visa.

Documents Required:

• Completed application form • Cover letter with a detailed route • Passsport with 2 blank pages • Copy of visa for onward destination • One passport photo

You can download the application form and covering letter template here .

Turkmenistan Tourist Visa

Most visitors to Turkmenistan come on a tourist visa as the tour companies can issue a letter of invitation (LOI) and assist with the visa application process.

• Letter of Invitation (LOI) • Completed application form • Passport with 2 blank pages • One passport photo

You can download the application form here .

Internet Censorship in Turkmenistan

Just like nearby Iran, China and others Turkmenistan has a very tightly controlled internet. If you wish to stay connected to social media and news sites then you will need a VPN before you travel.

ExpressVPN is one of the best for travellers to Turkmenistan (I used it there with no problems and could access banned sites such as Facebook, Google etc).

A VPN is not just useful for getting around restrictions, but also should be a must for any traveller to secure your connections while you are on the move.

Buy Express VPN

How to get to Turkmenistan

There are three ways to reach Turkmenistan; by air, land and sea. Below we will outline each in more detail.

Turkmenistan by air: Turkmenistan’s primary international airport is located close to the city of Turkmenabat rather than the capital, Ashgabat. There aren’t a lot of airlines flying to the country, with flights coming predominantly from Russia.

Turkmenistan by boat: there is a weekly ferry/cargo service from Baku in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashi in the west of the country. You can read all about how to make this trip in the Caspian Sea Ferry article.

Turkmenistan by land: There are border crossings with Afghanistan, Iran, and Uzbekistan. The border crossing between Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan has been closed since June 2018.

Getting Around Turkmenistan

The best way to get around Turkmenistan is to take a tour (one of the only ways tourists can actually visit the country). Most tour companies provide a 4X4 as Turkmenistan’s roads are pretty bad and the country is 90% desert.

For those crossing the country on a transit visa, marshrutkas (taxi vans with a fixed route) and buses are the main way to get around outside of the cities.

Military Checkpoints

Once you leave Turkmenistan’s main cities you will find military checkpoints on all major roads. Drivers must slow down, make eye contact with officials who will indicate whether you can carry on or need to pull over.

Is Turkmenistan Safe to Visit?

As with other police states, Turkmenistan is very safe for tourists and violent crime towards foreigners is almost unheard of. Falling foul of the country’s strange laws and corruption are some of the biggest dangers, along with the state of the roads and the harsh desert climate.

Do not criticize the current or former president or Turkmenistan’s political system. Avoid discussing politics altogether in public and in your hotel room which is probably bugged.

As with elsewhere in the former Soviet Union, it’s best to try and avoid interactions with the authorities as much as possible lest you be seen as an easy target for bribery.

Turkmenistan is a strange place indeed, but that makes it even more of an interesting destination for intrepid travellers. Given the country’s relative lack of tourists, it means you are likely to have most of the Turkmenistan tourist attractions all to yourself.

Read More about Places to Visit in Turkmenistan

About the author: Steve Rohan is a writer from Essex, England. He has traveled to over 60 countries, lived in Armenia, China and Hong Kong, and is now living the digital nomad life on the road.

Steve prefers “slow travel” and has covered much of the world by train, bus and boat. He has been interviewed multiple times by the BBC and recently featured in the documentary Scariest Places in the World . See the About page for more info.

Where I am now: Yerevan, Armenia 🇦🇲

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Best attractions in Turkmenistan: Top 15

Turkmenistan is one of the few countries with a vast tourist potential, which has not yet been fully disclosed. The mysterious country, unlike its famous Asian neighbors, once followed its own special, authentic path. However, those who wish to get acquainted with Turkmenistan will discover completely new sides of the country, and the historical and natural sights of Turkmenistan will fill the impression. Large-scale historical actions were unfolding on the lands of this country, whole civilizations were developing and collapsing, so this region conceals a lot of historical secrets and interesting findings. This is a confirmation that there are many historical monuments, ancient constructions and other exciting, interesting places to see in Turkmenistan.

What to see first in Turkmenistan

Guests of Turkmenistan arrive in this state for different periods: someone is planning a large-scale trip and close acquaintance with the customs and culture of the country, someone is looking for what to see in Turkmenistan in 1 day. Anyway, every tourist will find it useful to know what famous sights lurk in the rich lands of Turkmenistan in order to compose a rich itinerary of a trip.

1. Karakum Desert

The Karakum Desert, known to everyone, which occupies most of the country’s territory, opens the ranking. It is one of the largest deserts in the world, a realm of sand and drought. The climate here is harsh, the inter-seasonal temperature difference is more than 90 degrees, but surprisingly, about one seventh of the population still lives in the Karakum desert, adapting to the unfriendly conditions of the desert.

2. The ancient city of Nisa

Just a few kilometers from Ashgabat, guides in Turkmenistan will guide you through the famous ruins of the ancient city of Nisa, the former capital of the Parthian state that existed at the turn of the millennium BC and AD. Once, in the old part of the city was concentrated mass of palaces and temple buildings, as well as a treasury, warehouses with huge stocks of wine and provisions. The walls of the fortresses were built in good faith, their thickness was 8-9 meters, thanks to which the remains of ancient constructions have survived to this day.

Official site: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru/nissa

3. Ancient City of Merv

The review continues with an ancient city whose history goes even further back in the depths of thousands of years. It is the oldest city of Merv in Central Asia dating back to the era of the Moorish civilization at the turn of the 3rd and 2nd millennium B.C. It is also one of the largest archeological sites in Central Asia, with a number of preserved sites on its territory where you can read the history of the legendary city from ancient times to the late Middle Ages.

Official site: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru

4. Dehistan

Among amazing natural places that everyone should visit in Turkmenistan, the Dehistan plain, also called Martian plain, is especially interesting. It was named so for a reason - nowadays, this lifeless, waterless and clay soil has left no trace of fertile land, where once agriculture was successfully carried out from the 2nd millennium B.C. Today all that the plain has left to its descendants are the ruins of the ancient settlement of Misrian, but even by looking at them one can judge how highly cultured and beautiful this ancient settlement was.

Official site: http://tourism.gov.tm

5. Kunya Urgench

Tours in Turkmenistan often include a route to a historical and architectural reserve 500 kilometers north of Ashgabat. It is Kunya Urgench, a small town, which keeps the memory of the majestic Urgench, the former capital of Khorezm. Once, trade caravans passed through the town and various kinds of crafts flourished. But bits of its history survived the ordeal of time: twice it was subjected to siege, destruction, but still survived to this day: the many mausoleums, minarets and fortresses of the Middle Ages.

Official website: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru/koneurgench

6. Ruhiyet Palace

Turkmenistan’s main landmarks are briefly complemented by the Ruhiyet Palace for official events located in Ashgabat. The palace building, built not so long ago - in 1999, has advanced technical equipment and everything necessary for holding various ceremonies at a high international level. Meetings, congresses, forums, inaugurations, as well as informal events - exhibitions, concerts and other celebrations - are held here.

7. Ertogrulgazy Mosque

Once in Ashgabat, you will definitely find somewhere to go in Turkmenistan besides the aforementioned palace. For example, the largest mosque in the city is called Ertogrulgazy. It is also one of the most beautiful mosques of the city decorated in traditional Ottoman style. There is a nice marble road leading to the mosque gates on the sides of which there are fountain bowls in the shape of half of 8-pointed stars. Impressed by the size and design of its courtyard, sumptuous painting of the domes inside the temple and spacious inner hall, which can be simultaneously stay up to 5 thousand worshippers.

8. Monument of Independence of Turkmenistan

The most important state landmark and the tallest structure in Turkmenistan is the Independence Monument, located in Ashgabat in the National Independence Park. It is 118 meters high and has a hemispherical dome at its base with water flowing down its surface from fountains whose nozzles are embedded right in its walls. Through one of the five entrances it is possible to enter the interior of the monument, where the museum is located.

9. Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

The largest single-domed mosque in Central Asia, according to reviews, is impressive in size - its area is about 18,000 square meters, and inner halls can accommodate up to 10,000 worshippers, with the lower hall designed for men and accommodating up to 7,000 people, and

the balconies are for women, with a capacity of up to 3,000 people. The whole structure is built of white marble; the huge painted dome deserves special attention; and besides the main entrance, seven additional entrances lead to the inner halls, in front of which beautiful fountains are placed.

10. Darwaza Gas Crater

The recommendations of this rating are sure to touch on an amazing find in Turkmenistan - we’re talking about the Darvaz gas crater, 270 kilometers north of Ashgabat. “Gates of hell”, as the locals call the crater, have formed due to geological works at the site of the promising deposit found here. As a result, a cavity formed in the Earth’s crust eventually leaked gas, which the fire was set on fire so as not to poison the people living nearby. But the deposit turned out to be so vast that the gas, which was set on fire in 1971, is still blazing today, offering incredible views of the amazing natural phenomenon.

Official site: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru/gazcrater

Turkmenistan sights: what else to visit in Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan sights photo with names and descriptions continues the review for those who are already familiar with all the main sights of Turkmenistan. We will talk about unique and extraordinarily beautiful creations, created by nature itself.

11. Dinosaur Plateau

Not far from the border with Uzbekistan, in the southeast of the country, surrounded by mountain ranges, is a small village called Hodzhapil. About three kilometers from this village one can meet an amazing find - a limestone slab, the length and width of which is 3-4 hundred meters. All its surface is completely trampled by dinosaurs - in total there are about 3 thousand footprints, the main part of which was left by megalosaurs that lived during the Jurassic period, as well as smaller dinosaurs that inhabited the local swamp. Over time, the swamp fossilized and the footprints were immortalized on the surface of the resulting plateau.

Official website: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru/dinosaur

12. Baharden Cave

The best sights of Turkmenistan will certainly complement another creation of nature - Baharden Cave, formed due to the impact of hot underground water on the rock. The length of this natural cavity is about 250 meters, the width and height is about 25 meters. Inside there is an underground lake, in the healing hydrogen sulfide waters which you can bathe in. The air inside the cave is very humid, saturated with hydrogen sulfide vapor, and the internal temperature, comfortable to stay, remains unchanged throughout the year.

13. Repetek Reserve

In 1927, the Repetek Biosphere Reserve was organized on the territory of the Kara-Kum Desert, a place with quite diverse flora and fauna on the background of the lifeless kingdom of sands. The uniqueness of this interesting place has long attracted the attention of scientists, who noted that the Kara-Kum desert ecosystem functions better the higher the air temperature rises, up to 60 degrees. About 30 species of mammals, about 200 species of birds and 125 endemic plants live quite successfully on these territories.

Official website: http://www.lichenhouse.narod.ru

14. Yangi-Kala Canyon

In the northwestern part of Turkmenistan, you can visit an amazingly beautiful and shaped natural object called the Yangi-Kala Canyon. After driving through a lifeless desert, at one point you find yourself at a precipice, where the ground drops out from under your feet for hundreds of meters. The canyon was once an ancient sea, which has dried up over time, exposing a sea floor dominated by white and red soil rocks. The rains and wind over time “carved” into the bottom of the canyon colorful fanciful hills, or “fiery fortresses”-that is how the name of the canyon is translated.

15. Caspian Sea

The body of water called the Caspian Sea, in fact, is not a sea - it is the world’s largest undrained lake, located at the junction of Europe and Asia. The salty waters of the Caspian Sea are famous for their healing effects, and the summer temperature is comfortable enough for recreation - not higher than +28 degrees. That is why this is a popular tourist area, and hotels of Turkmenistan, boarding houses, resorts and health resorts, concentrated mainly in the resort area “Avaza”, ready to offer different options for recreation right on the Caspian Sea coast.

Official site: http://tourism.gov.tm/ru/awaza

Turkmenistan is the most closed and authentic country on all post-Soviet space. Every year it attracts more and more inquisitive travelers, who are attracted here by dreams of white marble palaces, ancient cities, national shrines and living oases, created by nature itself right in the middle of lifeless dunes of endless desert.

• Attractions
• Turkmenistan

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Turkmenistan

• 3.1 Archaeological sites
• 3.2 Medieval monuments
• 3.3 Nature reserves
• 3.4 Pilgrims' shrines
• 4.1.1 Pre-independence
• 4.1.2 The Niyazov years
• 4.1.3 The Berdimuhamedow dynasty
• 4.3 Geography
• 4.4.1 Main public holidays
• 4.4.2 Professional holidays
• 4.4.3 Other holidays
• 4.5 Climate
• 5.1 Visa requirements
• 5.2.1 Vaccinations
• 5.2.2 Registration
• 5.2.3 Travel permits
• 5.3 By plane
• 5.4 By train
• 5.6.1 From Iran
• 5.6.2 From Uzbekistan
• 5.6.3 From Kazakhstan
• 5.7 By boat
• 6.1 By plane
• 6.2 By train
• 6.4 By boat
• 9.1 Suggested itineraries
• 10.3 Shopping
• 15.1 Corruption
• 15.2 Authorities
• 15.3 Photography
• 15.4 Traffic conditions
• 15.5 Relationships with the Turkmens
• 15.6 Other things to watch out for
• 16 Stay healthy
• 17.1 Sensitive issues
• 17.2 Home Etiquette
• 19.1 By phone
• 19.2 Internet

Turkmenistan ( Turkmen : Türkmenistan) is one of the most isolated countries in the world and has dubbed itself as the "motherland of neutrality". Formerly a part of the Soviet Union , it is situated in Central Asia and is surrounded by Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, and Iran. The country has been a thoroughfare for several empires and cultures; many of Turkmenistan's cities were main points of trade on the Silk Road , linking Eastern and Western civilizations. Three of its cities are UNESCO World Heritage Sites .

Modern Turkmenistan is dominated and run by a very strict, controlling, and totalitarian government that maintains a very tight grip over its people. Turkmenistan's past and current presidents have imposed their eccentricities and bizarre beliefs − for instance, banning dogs from the capital city, banning black cars because they are "bad luck", closing hospitals outside the capital city, and so on − upon the country and are usually treated, at least publicly, as "gods" in Turkmen culture. Tourists may only travel to Turkmenistan as part of a guided tour. About 10,000 to 20,000 people visit this mysterious, isolated nation annually.

Regions [ edit ]

While the provinces are a helpful way to break down large Turkmenistan into regional travel areas, there is one geographical region present throughout them all, dominating the country: the brutal desert wasteland that is the Karakum .

Cities [ edit ]

• 37.95 58.383333 1 Ashgabat (Aşgabat) — the capital and largest city in Turkmenistan, with a million inhabitants as of 2022. Known for its dazzling, impressive white marble buildings, the city was completely razed to the ground by a massive earthquake in 1948. It sits about 15 miles north of the Iran-Turkmenistan border.
• 39.511944 54.365 2 Balkanabat (formerly Nebit-Dag) (2004: 140,000 inhabitants)
• 41.816667 59.983056 3 Daşoguz (formerly Tashauz) (2004: 210,000 inhabitants)
• 37.6 61.833333 4 Mary (2004: 160,000 inhabitants)
• 39.1 63.566667 5 Türkmenabat (2004: 256,000 inhabitants)
• 40.016667 52.966667 6 Turkmenbashi (Türkmenbaşy) — a beautiful coastal city on the Caspian Sea. It serves as Turkmenistan's main access to the sea and has much of the country's oil refineries.

Historically, most of these towns were oases along the Silk Road .

Other destinations [ edit ]

• Avaza — a multi-billion-dollar construction project near Turkmenbashi aimed at creating a "national touristic zone" of over 60 world-class hotels, shopping, and a new international airport. The government likens the project to Dubai , but there is little foreign investment thus far.
• 39 60 1 Darvaza — Probably Turkmenistan's single most famous site, at this spot near the former town of Darvaza, an oil rig accidentally struck a large pocket of natural gas in 1971. The rig collapsed into the cavern, resulting in a large crater filled with fire. It was decided to let the fire burn rather than let the poisonous gas escape into the nearby town. The fire burns to this day and it is popular for its Dantesque atmosphere.
• Pay a visit to Kow Ata underground sulphur lake , found in the mountains an hour or so outside Ashgabat. It is possible to swim in the year-round warm, mineral rich, and medicinal waters. Expect a walk down increasingly slippery steps, and a corrugated shack to change in - unless you're handy with your towel. Kow Ata means Father of the Lakes . The cave is more than 200 m long, 20 m high and at some point more than 50 m wide. The water has a constant temperature of 33 to 37 °C.

Archaeological sites [ edit ]

• 36.857917 60.432375 2 Altin Depe
• 37.9 58.5 3 Anau (Anew)
• 38.1907 62.0343 4 Gonur Depe
• Jeitun — Mesolithic settlement on a sand dune in the Kara Kum desert, 30 km north of Ashgabat
• 37.662778 62.1925 5 Merv — with Erk Kala, Giaur Kala, Kyz Kala and Sultan Kala
• Namazga Depe
• 37.951147 58.212408 6 Nissa — one of the most important cities of the Parthian Empire, 19 km west of Ashgabat

Medieval monuments [ edit ]

• Abiverd , medieval city (10th to 18th century)
• Abu Said Mithkene Mausoleum (11th to 15th century)
• Astana-baba , 15 km from Mount Atamurat, country estate of Omar-Kali with mausoleum and mosque
• Dayakhaty , near Turkmenabad , caravan serai (11th century)
• Darganata , medieval city, mausoleum (11th to 15th century)
• Dekhistan , historical area in Western Turkestan, big Mashat cemetery, Shir Kabir Mausoleum (10th century), ruins of Missirian city (10th to 15th cent.)
• Devkesengala , north west of Konye Urgench , fortress, mausoleums,
• Ekedeshik , near Tagtabazar, near the Afghanistan border, about 245 km south of Mary , cave settlement with more than 40 rooms, dating back to the Early Middle Ages, eventually a Buddhist monastery
• 38.157778 57.966389 7 Geok-tepe , place of a bloody battle between Turkmen and Russians in 1881,
• Imukshir , near Tara, ancient city, fortifications
• 42.316667 59.158611 8 Konye Urgench , remains of the capital of Horezmshah with magnificent architectural monuments,
• Mane Baba Mausoleum , about 40 km south of Tejen in the Khaka region. The mausoleum was built in the 11th and 12th centuries over the grave of the famous Sufi teacher and philosopher Abu Said Maneyi (968-1049). The legend tells that Abu Said met Abu Ali Ibn Sina (Avicenna) for a conversation that lasted three days. Afer this conversation Abi Said said: 'Ibn Sina knows everything that I see' and Ibn Sina answered: 'Abu Said sees everything that I know'.
• Parau , medieval settlement, Parau-bibi and Parau-ata (12th century)
• Sarakhs , ancient city with the Mausoleum of Abul-Fazi ("Sarakhs-baba" and Yarti-Gummez
• Seyitdzhemaledin Mosque , masterpiece of Muslim architecture (15th century)
• Shakhsenem , medieval settlement, mosque
• Talkhatan-baba , 30 km west of Mary , mausoleum (12th century)
• Tasharvat , 38 km west of Balkanabat , big medieval fortress

Nature reserves [ edit ]

• Köpet Dag Nature Reserve in the mountains near Ashgabat
• Syunt Hasarday Nature Reserve in the mountains south of the Ashgabat-Turkmenbashi road,
• Esenguly Nature Reserve on the Caspian Sea near the border to Iran
• Krasnovodsk Nature Reserve on the Caspian Sea south of Turkmenbashi ,
• Gaplangyr Nature Reserve in the Karakum Desert.
• Quzilqum Nature Reserve along the Amu Darya on the border to Uzbekistan ,
• Amu Darya Nature Reserve along the Amu Darya on the border to Uzbekistan, north of Turkmenabat .
• Repetek Nature Reserve in the desert on the road between Mary and Turkmenabat,
• 37.8 66.5 9 Köýtendag Nature Reserve in the mountains in the south east of the country on the border to Uzbekistan .

You must obtain a special permit to visit a nature reserve, and it will be necessary to apply for it through a travel agent well in advance.

Pilgrims' shrines [ edit ]

Shrine pilgrimage ( ziyarat ) and its underlying beliefs have played an important role in islamization of Central Asia as well as in creating and sustaining communal identity up to the present day. Recent research suggests that Musilm "holy men" (Sufi shaykhs) were key players in the conversion to Islam due to their knowledge of Inner Asian pre-Islamic religious traditions and their ability to translate the meaning of Islam to the local population. The prominent position of ancestor worship in Turkmen traditions is shown by the fact that the progenitor of a tribe or community is often ascribed to "islamizers" among the Turkmen. The burial sites of these Muslim founding fathers became a focus of veneration and were accompanied by what is called "Muslim shamanism": ancestral spirits were identified with the companions of the "Saint-progenitor". The communities also accepted saints with outstanding spiritual, intellectual or physical powers. Thus the burial sites of Islamic saints, local rulers, learned scholars, warriors or pre-Islamic figures have become shrines. Turkmen tradition also recognizes six non-Turkmen öwlat groups, which trace their lineage to the first caliphs of Islam, e.g. the progenitor of the öwlat group Ata is Gözli Ata who in the 14th century came from Turkestan, a center of Sufi teaching, in order to carry on his teachings in Western Turkmenistan. The legends describe him as an extremely powerful saint, outdoing other saints in miracle performances and winning large numbers of followers.

• Gözli Ata , about 160 km north of Balkanabat . Gözli Ata ("Father Eye") was a famous Sufi teacher of the 12th century. It is told that he was able to recognize the good and the evil in the soul of all men. He was killed by the Mongols and buried here, next to his wife Bibi Aysulu .
• Ibrahim Sultan
• Ismamut Ata
• Kyrk Giz , in a spectacular canyon in the Köýtendag Nature Reserve
• Kyrk Molla at Konye Urgench
• Mohammed Ibn Zaid Mausoleum
• Nedjmeddin Kubra Mausoleum at Konye Urgench
• Parau Bibi Shrine , about halfway between Ashgabat and Balkanabat , about 20 km north west of Gyzylarbat and about 8 km south of the main road, in the village of Paraw. The shrine is set 100 meters up a rocky mountainside overlooking the village and the steppe. It consists of a white mausoleum-like structure, a guest house and a roofed platform where the pilgrims congregate and have meals. According to the legend Paraw Bibi was a beautiful and virtuous maiden. A jealous woman wanted to hand over Paraw Bibi to invaders in exchange for the promise not to attack the village. Paraw Bibi cursed the woman and let her turn into black stone. When the enemy attacked, Paraw Bibi ordered the mountain to split into two parts so that she was able to enter it and to preserve her purity and virtue. The locals built a shrine to Paraw Bibi, as they believed that because of her bravery and refusal to submit she was a true hero blessed by the holy breath of the prophets. It is reported that at least at the end of the Soviet era pilgrims from all over western Turkmenistan visited the shrine, seeking fertility and a cure from insanity.

• Khoja Yusup Baba (Hemedani) is a large complex in southeastern Turkmenistan near Bairam Ali, on the territory of the ancient state of Merv . Khoja Yusuf Hamadani is a well known figure in Islamis history. He is considered as the first in a line of Sufi masters from which the lineages of the most important Sufi orders Naqshbandi and Yasavi are derived, and is described as an exemplary Muslim, pious and unpretentious, devoted to Islamic scholarship and deeply inspired by his work to promote Islam. He died in 1140 and his body was interred at Merv , presumably at the site carrying his name. In the Soviet era the Moseque of Khoja Yusup Baba was declared an official architectural monument and one of the four official mosques in entire Turkmenistan. It is popular belief that two pilgrimages to Khoja Yusup Baba equal one to Mecca. The pilgrims circle the tomb from right to left, surrounding the tomb three times. Most people repeatedly touch the wall of the tomb with both hand and bring their hands to the face. Some even kiss the wall. After they had completed the circling they sit together while the caretaker recites a blessing. When the blessing os finished they give the caretaker offerings of money. In the complex is a well said to contain holy water. Women tie small strips of cloth on the branches of the bushes or trees that line the path leading to the well. These strips signify prayers or wishes to the saint. For the same reason pilgrims set up two old bricks in the form of an upside-sown "V". Miniature imitation cradles made from sticks and cloth are set up by women hoping for the saint's aid in order to become fertile.
• Baba Gambar has several shrines. The best known is in southeastern Turkmenistan, about 120 km south of Mary : it is often considered as an example how a pre-Islamic deity was transformed into an Islamic saint. According to Islamic legend Ganbar was the stableman of Ali and caretaker of his horse Duldul. In Turkmen legends Ganbar is considered as the patron of musicians and creator of the first dutar , the traditional two-string music instrument. According to the legend Ali remarked that Duldul was ill and underfed. When he questioned Gambar, Gambar did not give an answer. Then, Ali saw Gambar playing the dutar to Duldul. When Ali confronted Gambar, Gambar commanded the earth to swallow him and fled underground to Mecca, saying that the two will meet again on judgment day. The site consists of the shrine-mausoleum, a "chile agach" and a tree the leaves of which have the shape of dutar tuning pegs. It is claimed that the tree grew from Gambar's original dutar and that its roots lead to the underground passage through which Gambar fled.
• Hazret(i) Ali is about 12 km southwest of Ashgabat , near the village of Bagir and the archaeological site of Nisa . The small mosque, called "namazga" (hall of prayer), is considered as a place where Ali prayed when he was promoting Islam. Impressions in the rocks are said to have come from Ali's hands and from the hooves of his horse Duldul.
• Khoja Alem Baba is near the town of Kaka, about 130 km south east of Ashgabat . It is an excellent example of a small, local shrine, serving one specific village only due to "öwlat" (clan lineage). The tomb is housed in a clay mausoleum with two chambers, an entrance or sitting area and the tomb chamber proper. Tomb and chamber are decorated with votive offerings and objects connected with Khoja Alem Baba. Sites as Khoja Alem Baba are very common in Turkmenistan. Apparently Turkmen tradition stipulated that each community has an "öwlüya" and by this way has access to the protection provided.

Understand [ edit ]

Tucked away and isolated from the rest of the world, Turkmenistan is, without a doubt, one of the world's mysterious nations. North Korea may get all the press, but even the Kim Family's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan's former president, Saparmurat Niyazov .

History [ edit ]

Pre-independence [ edit ].

The Turkmens, the natives of Turkmenistan, have their roots to the Oghuz Turks, a nomadic clan from the Altai region. Having previously been under Persian rule , Turkmenistan was annexed by the Russian Empire in 1881 and became an indigenized Soviet republic during the 20th century.

The Niyazov years [ edit ]

Turkmenistan became an independent nation on 27 October 1991 after the dissolution of the Soviet Union . The former head of Turkmenistan's Communist Party at the time of independence, Saparmurat Niyazov , was elected president of the newly independent nation.

Niyazov was widely regarded as one of the world's most eccentric and repressive dictators of his time. He adopted the title Turkmenbashi ("Father of All Turkmen"), renamed the city of Krasnovodsk to Turkmenbashi , built a 15-meter tall golden statue that rotates to face the sun in the capital city, and renamed the months and the days of the week. One of the most glaring and controversial aspects of his rule was the publication and forced adoption of the Ruhnama , meaning "Book of the Soul." Niyazov made it compulsory to read the Ruhnama in schools, universities, and governmental organizations; anyone who wanted to work for the government or acquire a driver's license had to pass a test on their knowledge of the book.

In addition, Niyazov issued decrees that banned lip-syncing, ballet, long hair, video games, and golden tooth caps, closed libraries and hospitals outside the capital city, among other things. Despite all these grandiose gestures, Niyazov pretended to remain modest and once said, "I'm personally against seeing my pictures and statues in the streets, but it's what the people want."

On December 21, 2006, Niyazov abruptly died of a heart attack, the only president in the country's history to die in office.

The Berdimuhamedow dynasty [ edit ]

Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, a dentist by profession and a high ranking official in Niyazov's government, became the country's second president after Niyazov's death.

Although he peeled back many of the worst excesses of the Niyazov regime, the political environment in the country remained largely unchanged and a significant personality cult developed around him. He adopted the title Arkadag ("The protector"), publicised his love for horses and music, portrayed himself as a man of multiple talents, banned black cars from being imported because he considered the colour black to be unlucky, and among other things.

He stepped down in 2022 and was succeeded by his son, Serdar Berdimuhamedow, the so-called "son of the nation", ensuring that Turkmenistan was the first post-Soviet country to be ruled by a dynastic system.

People [ edit ]

The people of Turkmenistan are predominantly Turkmen (plural Turkmen or Turkmens), also spelled Turkoman, in both ethnicity and language. Turkmenistan traditionally was home to sizeable Russian and German populations, but they largely emigrated to their mother countries following the break up of the Soviet Union. As of 2012, 86% of the population was ethnically Turkmen, followed by 6% ethnic Uzbek and 5% ethnic Russian.

According to the Ruhnama , the Turkmens originated from Oguz Han and all Oguz people descend from Oguz Han's 24 grandsons. The original homeland of the Oguz tribes was the Ural-Altay region of Central Asia. The Orhun inscriptions (6th century) mention the "six Oghuz tribal union", referring to the unification of the six Turkic tribes. This was the first written reference to Oghuz, dated to the period of the Göktürk Empire. The Book of Dede Korkut , the historical epic of the Oghuz Turks, was written in the 9th and 10th century. They migrated westwards in the area of the Aral Sea and the Syr Darya Basin in the 10th century. A clan of the Oghuz, the Seljuks took over Islam, entered Persia in the 11th century and founded the Great Seljuk Empire. The name Oghuz is derived from the word 'ok', meaning 'arrow' or 'tribe' and an archer shooting an arrow was shown on the flag of the Seljuk Empire. The term Oghuz was gradually supplanted by the Turks themselves by Türkmen or Turcoman . This process was completed in the 13th century.

The main tribes of the Turkmen are the Tekke (around the oases of Ahal, Tejen and Merv), the Ersari (along the Amu Darya), the Yomud (in the Balkan Region and Khorzem Oasis) and the Goklen in the Southwest.

Geography [ edit ]

Turkmenistan is largely covered by desert, with intensive agriculture located in irrigated oases. One-half of its irrigated land is planted with cotton, making it the world's tenth largest producer.

About 80% of Turkmenistan's surface is covered by the biggest desert in Central Asia, the Karakum (Black Sand) , which forms together with the Kyzylkum (Red Sand) in Uzbekistan the fourth biggest desert in the world. The Karakum covers about 350,000 km².

The Kopet Dagi Mountains (Many Mountains) in Southern Turkmenistan form the border to Iran . In the Kugitang Mountains in North East Turkmenistan is the highest mountain of the country, the Airbaba (3,117 m). The lowest point of the country is the Akdzhak depression , 80 m below sea level.

The country measures about 1,100 km from west to east and about 650 km from north to south.

Holidays [ edit ]

Main public holidays [ edit ].

• 1 Jan: New Year
• 21–22 March: Nowruz (Navrouz: Spring festival)
• First Sunday of April: Drop of Water is a Grain of Gold Day
• 27 Apr: Ahalteke Horse Day
• 18 May: State Flag and Constitution Day
• 27 Sep: Independence Day
• 6 Oct: Day of Remembrance (to remember the earthquake of 1948)
• 17 Nov: Student Youth Day
• 30 Nov: Bread Day
• 12 Dec: Day of Neutrality
• Eid al-Fitr (date varies)
• Eid al-Adha (date varies)

Professional holidays [ edit ]

• 12 Jan: Remembrance Day (Battle of Geok Depe)
• 9 May: Day of Remembrance of National Heroes of Turkmenistan in the 1941-1945 World War
• 19 May: Day of Revival, Unity, and the Poetry of Magtymguly
• 29 May: Day of the Ministry of Internal Affairs
• Last Sunday of May: Turkmenhaly Bairamy (Carpet Day)
• 27 Jun: Day of Turkmen Workers of Culture and Art
• Third Sunday in July – Galla Bayramy (celebration of the wheat harvest)
• 11 Aug: Border Guards Day
• Day of the Workers in the Oil, Gas, Power, and Geological Industry (Second Saturday in September)
• 30 Sep: Day of the Worker in the Organs of National Security
• 9 Oct: Day of the Navy
• Last Sunday of November: Harvest Festival
• Health Day (First Saturday in November)

Other holidays [ edit ]

• Second Sunday of August: Melon Day
• First Sunday of Dec: Good Neighbourliness Day
• Day of Remembrance of the First President of Turkmenistan Saparmurat Niyazov

Climate [ edit ]

Turkmenistan has a continental climate with long hot summers. Winters are not too cold. The average temperature is 26-34°C in summer and -4°C to 4°C in winter.

However, in northern regions the temperature in winter months can decrease to -20°C.

Read [ edit ]

• The Lost Heart of Asia by Colin Thubron, Penguin, 1994
• Daily Life in Turkmenbashy's Golden Age by Sam Tranum
• Joe & Azat by Jesse Lonergan

Get in [ edit ]

Visa requirements [ edit ].

Turkmenistan does not have an extensive diplomatic network around the world. You may need to travel to another country to apply for a Turkmen visa.

You typically need to submit the following with your visa application:

• A valid passport (with a validity of more than six months)
• A letter of invitation (LOI) that has been authenticated by the State Migration Service. (hotel reservations don't count)
• A copy of the first page of your passport.
• A copy of your identity card or driver's license.

It normally takes 10 business days to process any kind of Turkmen visa. Prices for Turkmen visas are generally reasonable: a single-entry ten-day visa — which is what most people would apply for — costs US$35 in the United States .

If your country does not have a Turkmen embassy, or if you desperately need to visit Turkmenistan, you can obtain a visa on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport. Make sure you have your passport and letter of invitation in hand.

Agencies [ edit ]

There are more than 24 government approved travel agencies in the country. Here is a partial list of them:

• Owadan Tourism − one of the leading tour agencies in the country. They offer custom tours, festival tours (ideal for those wishing to learn more about Turkmen festivals), and so on.
• Ahalsiyakat − offer all kinds of tours and they even have an option that allows you visit all five "stans" in Central Asia .

Vaccinations [ edit ]

The World Health Organization recommends vaccinations against diphtheria, hepatitis A and B, measles, mumps, polio, rubella, tetanus, typhoid and chickenpox (varicella). In addition, vaccinations against meningitis, rabies and tuberculosis are recommended for long term travellers.

Registration [ edit ]

All foreigners entering Turkmenistan have to pay a registration fee of US$12 (2012) and will receive a green entry and departure card . Take particular care of the departure card, as it must be presented when leaving the country.

Foreigners staying for more than 3 days in Turkmenistan must register with IVOR in Ashgabat , Asady köcesi, ☏ 391337 (domestic) or with IVOR branch offices in other towns. You are responsible for registration, even when staying in a hotel. The hotel will give you a confirmation of the accommodation only. This confirmation and the receipt for the registration fee paid when entering the country have to be presented to IVOR. Two photos are required. Registration will be stamped into your passport. You have to give notice to the IVOR in order to be permitted to leave the country. This notice will be stamped into the passport as well. Border controls will check if you have registration and notice to leave stamped into your passport.

Travel permits [ edit ]

Travel permits are required for many border regions. You do not need a travel permit for Ashgabat , Merv , Turkmenabat and Balkanabat . Transit visas allow you to travel along the main roads on your way to the next country on your itinerary. It is, however, absolutely necessary to have a travel permit for the following regions:

• in Western Turkmenistan : for Bekdash, Turkmenbashi , Haza, Dekistan, Yangykala , Gyzletrek, Nokhur and surroundings,
• in Northern Turkmenistan : for the entire region of Dashogus including Konye Urgench , Dargan-Ata and Gazachak,
• in Eastern Turkmenistan : for Farab, Atamurat (Kerki) and surroundings, Köýtendag Nature Reserve , Tagtabazar and Serkhetabat.

By plane [ edit ]

Turkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from Abu Dhabi , Almaty , Amritsar , Bangkok , Beijing , Birmingham , Delhi , Dubai , Frankfurt , Istanbul , Kyiv , London , Minsk , Moscow , and Saint Petersburg . Look out for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niyazov at the front of the cabin. The schedules are often less-than-convenient, and there is no website for the airlines with flights listed. It's usually best to visit the webpage of the airport from which you are departing to find the schedule.

Turkish Airlines flies to Ashgabat from Istanbul . Lufthansa flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat. See Ashgabat page for more detailed information. FlyDubai offers services from Dubai to Ashgabat.

By train [ edit ]

Virtually impossible. No official international trains exist and the only train (Moscow-Dushanbe) that transits the country is virtually inaccessible unless you are a Turkmen citizen. Turkmenistan does not issue transit visas "from-then-again-to Uzbekistan" and one would need a standard non-transit visa (Tajiks don't need any papers for transiting Turkmenistan with this train). This train has no official stops on the Turkmen territory but it physically runs via Amudarya.

By car [ edit ]

If you want to enter Turkmenistan with your own car, you need a liability insurance. The green International Insurance Card is not valid in Turkmenistan. In addition you have to pay an additional tax (about US$150) for the government subsidized fuel prices, depending on the distance of your travel in Turkmenistan. This tax has to be paid on the border in US dollars. Be prepared to have long waiting times at border controls. By vehicle, you can get in through Kazakhstan, Iran, Uzbekistan and Afghanistan.

The road from Kazakhstan to Turkmenistan is in terrible condition. If you don't have an SUV, the drive from Zhanaozen to the border may take up to 3 hours. Traffic is not permitted to cross these borders until further notice; the FCO advises those driving go via routes in Uzbekistan. The drive from the border to Garabogaz may take another 3 hours. Make sure to bring enough supplies since the border post is really isolated. Paperwork may take a long time but everything is very straightforward and people are really friendly and helpful. Very few tourists cross this border.

By bus [ edit ]

Visitors holding visas can enter Turkmenistan from all neighbouring countries. Checks at the border usually take one or two hours and maybe even more. Border points are open daily from 09:00 to 18:00.

From Iran [ edit ]

Since no public transportation goes across the Turkmen border, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan from Mashhad ( Iran ), the following option is the most convenient:

• Take a bus to Quchan : every 2 hours from 06:30. Cost: 8000 rial. Duration: 2hr 30min.
• From Quchan , take a private taxi to Bajgiran (village at the border). Cost: 60,000 rial for 2, or less if you can. Duration: about 1hr.
• At Bajgiran , go to the border (opening time: 07:30-15:30 Iran time). Crossing the border can take up to 2 hours. Turkmen police will ask for an entry tax of USD10 (per person) + USD2 of bank fees (per group), to be paid in US dollars only.
• In the Turkmenistan side, take a taxi to Ashgabat , which can cost up to USD15 per person. Duration: about 1 hr.

From Uzbekistan [ edit ]

Each crossing may require 15 minutes' walk across no-mans land, sometimes shared taxis are available. There are three crossings from Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan:

• Farab from Bukhara : Take a taxi from Bukhara to the border (USD8) or a shared taxi to Uzbek Olot (Qarakul) and then a taxi to the border. From the border it is about 45 km to Turkmenabat . A taxi should cost about USD5 and a seat in a shared taxi less than USD1.
• Dashgous from Khiva or Urgench : Take a taxi from Khiva or Urgench to the border for about USD10 and another one on the Turkmenistan side from the border to Dashgous for about USD1.
• Khojeli from Nukus in Karalpakstan : Take a taxi for the 30 minutes' drive from Nukus to the border for about USD10 or public transport from Khojeli for about USD1 and a taxi for the 10 minutes' drive to Konye Urgench for about USD1.

From Kazakhstan [ edit ]

It is two hours' drive from Zhanaozen to the Turkmenistan border and another 40 minutes drive from the border on a dirt road to the city of Karabogas (formerly Bekdash). The last 50 km on each side of the border is a very bad dirt road. (approx. USD100 private car or KZT10,000 per person shared). From Karabogas there is a good road to Turkmenbashi with fine views on the Caspian Sea. About 60 km south of Karabogas the road crosses a bridge over the channel connecting the Caspian Sea with the inland gulf. The border is closed to traffic until further notice.

By boat [ edit ]

Several popular travel guides discuss travelling by “ferry” across the Caspian Sea from Baku , Azerbaijan, to the port of Turkmenbashy in western Turkmenistan. Some people have faced problems attempting to travel to Turkmenistan by boat. Travellers should be aware that these “ferries” are in fact cargo ships that take on some passengers incidental to their primary function. Passengers are generally not provided food or water on these ships, and sleeping and sanitary facilities are likely to be rudimentary. Travellers should be aware that ships arriving at the port of Turkmenbashy often wait days offshore for outgoing ships to vacate the dock to allow incoming ships to disembark. Some people have spent more than a week offshore while their ship awaited permission to enter the port, and they have run out of stores of food and water, or had their Turkmen visas expire before they could be used. For this and other reasons travellers, especially those who plan to enter Turkmenistan by boat, are discouraged from using transit visas to enter Turkmenistan.

Get around [ edit ]

Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple of other destinations. Flights are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. Prices are around USD5 for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with a fleet of Boeing 717s, purchased in 2001. You might not be able to photograph freely in and around the airport, though this is not unheard of elsewhere.

Turkmenistan has at least one daily train between major cities in the country. Timetable here [dead link] . Journeys are slow but heavily subsidized (a few USD in the 1st sleeping class to anywhere in the country). Tickets can't be bought online and trains fill up fast so be sure to get one in advance. Train classes are typical for the ex-Soviet Union but most of the Soviet trains have been replaced with modern Chinese air-conditioned cars.

Rail service in Turkmenistan is provided by Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan railways) , Ashgabat, phone 3632 255545, fax 3632 473858. On the principal trains they offer soft and hard accommodation with sleeping and dining cars.

Turkmenistan has a well-developed intercity bus network, with regular services connecting most of the major cities and towns in the country.

You can typically book bus tickets at the bus station or through a travel agency. Some bus companies also offer online ticket booking, so you may want to check their websites to see if this is an option.

The Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for Turkmenistan.

The traffic culture in this country is markedly different from that of the West and poses a significant risk to both motorists and pedestrians. Traffic rules are routinely ignored, and speeding is commonplace. Moreover, real crossings are virtually nonexistent, making it challenging to navigate the roads safely. Cars may be in poor condition or lack essential safety features such as seat belts.

In urban areas, only the main streets are usually illuminated, while roads outside of large cities are in poor condition, making driving particularly hazardous at night. Safety checkpoints in towns and cities often cause traffic to slow down, further adding to the challenges of getting around.

In Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi, taxis are largely informal, and hailing a car by the roadside is the norm. If you plan to take a taxi, be sure to negotiate the destination and price in advance, preferably with knowledge of Russian. While the roads in these cities are in excellent condition; the road from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat is undergoing significant upgrades in 2014, to a two-lane, divided highway.

It is advisable to exercise caution when driving in this country, and if your instincts suggest that something is not quite right, it is best to err on the side of caution. Roadblocks are in place throughout the country, and motorists are frequently asked to present their passports and car papers, which can be inconvenient but is a routine part of travel here.

When driving, remember to keep to the right side of the road, adhere to the speed limit, and carry an international permit. Minimum age is 17. Speed limit is 60 km/h in urban areas, 90 to 120 km/h on highways. Police officers may stop you without reason, but it is important to remain polite and not pay bribes. Radar guns may also be used to measure your speed, and if caught speeding, it is possible to negotiate a small fine in most cases.

Talk [ edit ]

The official language of the country is Turkmen . Turkmen is closely related to Azerbaijani and Turkish, sharing varying degrees of mutual intelligibility with each of those languages. If you're a native speaker of one of those languages or know enough to communicate in either, picking up Turkmen should be easy.

Russian is widely spoken in Turkmenistan due to its history as part of the Soviet Union. Turkmen state press and websites regularly publish material in Russian.

Uzbek is widely understood in Turkmenistan, due to both languages sharing common Turkic traits. Ethnic Russians and Uzbeks each number about a quarter of a million, and most of those are native speakers of Russian or Uzbek.

Kazakh is also understood in the country (because of Turkic traits), but to a much more limited extent.

English is not widely understood in Turkmenistan, even though it is increasingly becoming a popular foreign language. Thus, it's recommended to have some solid Russian or Turkmen skills should you choose to travel independently.

See [ edit ]

Ancient cities, once major centers of trade and culture:

• Konye Urgench

Natural features:

• Karakum Desert
• Yangykala Canyon

Do [ edit ]

• Horse trekking with Akhal Teke horses : Orexca [dead link] offers a 12 day Turkem Akhalteke Horse Ride Wonders of the Karakum Desert with transfer from Ashgabar to Geokdepe Stud Farm, ride through the North East of the Karakum Desert to Tummekli, to the nomadic villages of Chyria, Gurrukly, Hakysh Gongurajy, Orazsahet and to the Geokdepe Reservoir.
• Hiking in the Köýtendag Nature Reserve (travel permit required) or in the mountains around Nokhur.
• Adventure tour and camel trek in the Kara Kum Desert . Stantours offers a 14-day off-road and camel tour through Eastern Turkmenistan with a drive from Ashgabat to the Yangykala Canyon, visiting Gozel Ata, camel treks in the Eastern Karabogaz basin and Kaplankyr National Park, and visiting Karashor salt lake, Sarakamysh lake and Yabgysu Canyon.  

Suggested itineraries [ edit ]

• Turkmenistan in 3 days : if you are short of time, you can visit the most important sites in a few days: day 1 arrival in Ashgabat , day 2 flight to Dashoguz , and visit Konye Urgench , return flight from Dashoguz to Ashgabat in the same evening, overnight in Ashgabat, day 3 morning flight to Mary , visit of Merv , return flight to Ashgabat in the same evening, overnight in Ashgabat, day 4 Ashgabat, sightseeing, day 5 departure from Ashgabat.

Buy [ edit ]

Money [ edit ].

The official currency in Turkmenistan is the new manat , sometimes denoted by the symbol " m " (ISO code: TMT ). It is divided into 100 tenge.

Coins in Turkmenistan come in denominations of 1-, 2-, 5-, 10-, 20 and 50 tenge and 1 and 2 manat. Banknotes in Turkmenistan come in denominations of 1-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50 and 100 manat.

The U.S. dollar is widely accepted, although it should only be accepted in international hotels or at the airport according to regulations. You will be asked to pay with dollars in hotels, certain tourist sights and for your tour operator. Be sure to take lots of US$1 bills for small purchases.

You cannot exchange manat outside of Turkmenistan, so only exchange what you intend to use, as it is impossible to exchange manat back into dollars or other foreign currencies inside Turkmenistan.

There is a black market for currency in Turkmenistan. The black market rate was 19-19.5 manat to US$1 in July 2023. Black market exchanges can be found at the Gulistan market (Russian Bazaar) in Ashgabat. The black market exchangers, however, know many tricks for scamming travelers.

Credit cards are only accepted in big international hotels and banks in the bigger cities. Visa credit cards are the most useful. MasterCard is accepted at one bank in Ashgabat, and at the ATM in the Hotel Grand Turkmen and the Ak Altyn Hotel in Ashgabat.

Costs [ edit ]

Turkmenistan is the most expensive country in Central Asia. Expect to pay US$30 for a basic double room. A more comfortable option is around US$60. A street snack is US$1 to US$3. A meal in a good restaurant in Ashgabat costs about US$20. A "tourism tax" of US$2 per day was introduced in August 2017; expect it to be added to your hotel bill.

Shopping [ edit ]

The bazaars are the heart of every town in Turkmenistan. Bazaars are usually open daily 08:00-20:00 including Sundays. Large markets, like the Tolkuchka Bazaar in the outskirts of Ashgabat are open two or three mornings per week only. Bazaars outside Ashgabat will be closed at daylight hours during the cotton harvest season in autumn. Government shops are closed on Sundays and at lunch time.

Why not add to your own despotic library by adding Turkmenbashi's self-penned Ruhnama book, exploring his views on what it means to be a Turkmen. Surprisingly, this is a fairly sensible read.

Rugs [ edit ]

Turkmen rugs are famous, tending towards rich reds with geometric patterns. Some traditional patterns are unique to each tribe, and an expert can generally identify the tribe from the shape of the medallion-like pattern elements called guls . However, it is fairly common to find a mixture; when a weaver from one tribe marries into a different tribe, she may use elements from both in her creations.

Sometimes Turkoman rugs are called "Bokhara" rugs because Bukhara in neighbouring Uzbekistan was a centre for their trade. Turkmenistan is not the only source of Turkoman rugs; Uzbekistan and northern areas of both Iran and Afghanistan have some Turkoman people. Other Afghan rugs are heavily influenced by Turkoman design and Turkoman designs are often copied in India and Pakistan ; dealers may also call those rugs "Bokhara" but, while some of them are fine rugs, in general they are neither as high quality nor as valuable as real Turkoman rugs.

Today, wool is often coloured with synthetic and not with natural dyes; at one time this was a problem because early synthetic dyes were of low quality. Today, it is much less of an issue but some collectors still prefer natural dyes, mainly because they give better arbrush , the subtle variation in colour across a rug.

Back in the 19th and early 20th century, some merchants bleached these rugs, removing the red colour, before export and called the result Golden Bokhara . Apparently this fit better into the colour schemes of their US and European buyers. Many collectors of Turkoman carpets scorn these rugs, both because the colour scheme is inauthentic and because the bleach often damaged the wool. However, they are still produced and newer ones are not bleached but woven with the "golden" colour scheme.

You need an export permission for carpets purchased in a bazaar or private shop. The Expert Commission at the back of the Carpet Museum in Ashgabat (phone 398879 and 398887, opening hours M-F 14:30-17:30, Sa 10:00-12:00) has to certify that the carpet is not more than 50 years old and may be exported. This costs 115 manat per square metre and can take a few days. In addition carpets exceeding 1.5 square metres are subject to an export duty of 400 manat per square metre payable in USD at the official rate of exchange at customs on departure.

Some carpet factories are run by the state owned company Turkmenhaly [dead link] . If you buy a carpet in a state shop, the export fees normally are included in the price, although customs will charge a commission fee of 0.2 per cent of the price of the carpet.

Eat [ edit ]

Expect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan , plov and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets. If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared in a tempura style.

Meals often start with a soup, as chorba , a meat and vegetable soup. Another national dish is plov , rice with mutton, onions, carrots, spices, raisins, peas or quinces. Manty are steamed dumplings filled with lamb. Ku'urma is lamb, cooked in its own fat. Ichlekli is a meat and onion pie and gutap is a pie filled with meat, potatoes, spinach and pumpkin.

Drink [ edit ]

Look out for a range of Turkmenbashi labeled vodka, which can be washed down with the range of Russian Baltika brand beer. It can be harder to find local beers in outlets catering to foreigners, but Berk is well worth asking for; Zip, on the other hand, is awful.

Tea is excellent and readily available.

Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled water. As in Russia , you may want to specify byehz gah-zah (literally, 'without gas' or 'still; plain') if you do not like fizzy water. Borjomi mineral water from Georgia is available in Ashgabat's shops.

Local people prefer to drink gok chai (green tea), often with dried fruits or herbs, as mint.

Sleep [ edit ]

Finding affordable accommodation in Turkmenistan can be challenging; you can expect to pay between US$100-200 a night for a single room in a comfortable hotel.

Learn [ edit ]

Most universities are located in Ashgabat .

Stay safe [ edit ]

Turkmenistan is a very safe country, largely because the government severely punishes crime. Turkmenistan is an authoritarian dictatorship and has one of the worst human rights records in the world. You need to watch what you say and do, always. As the saying goes, "If you have nothing good to say, don't say anything at all."

Corruption [ edit ]

Corruption is a huge problem in Turkmenistan. According to Transparency International, Turkmenistan is one of the most corrupt countries in the world.

Given how the police earn very low salaries, it's not uncommon for them to target people for bribes. As a foreigner, you may be seen as a "walking wallet" to them. Should you be stopped for any reason, do not argue or fight back, even if you've not done anything wrong ; simply pay the bribe and be on your way.

Authorities [ edit ]

You are advised to not trust the Turkmen police at all; they routinely harass, threaten, extort, and misbehave with people. Being a foreigner might make you an easy target.

Turkmen law enforcement authorities are known for being very touchy and aggressive, and it's common to be rudely treated by them. Do expect some harassment from them. If a police officer misbehaves with you, do not feel tempted to fight back or argue with them because you do not want to pick a fight with the wrong person in a country far away from home.

In accordance with the law, you are required to have an identification document on you at all times, and the police have the legal right to ask you for it. If they ask you for it, just give it to them. Not doing so can result in trouble with the authorities. Also, you have the legal right to ask them to present their identification.

Do not photograph or record law enforcement personnel without their consent; you can expect to be interrogated for doing so.

Photography [ edit ]

While Turkmenistan may be brimming with all kinds of beautiful things, photography and video recording are two of the easiest ways for a visitor to get into trouble. The Turkmens in general are particularly sensitive about pictures that portray Turkmenistan negatively.

Taking photographs or recording videos of strategically important structures − for example, government buildings or structures, police stations, border crossings, military installations, shopping malls, street markets, and airports − is illegal. The authorities enforce and take this rule very seriously .

Traffic conditions [ edit ]

Driving by the majority of Turkmens is wild and reckless . Speeding, reckless passing, and failure to obey traffic laws are common, as is driving under the influence. Drivers attack their art with an equal mix of aggressiveness and incompetence.

Most taxi services are not regulated and the vast majority of taxis do not have seat belts or other safety devices. For safety reasons, visitors should strongly consider hiring a private car and driver through their travel agency or hotel.

Police checkpoints and roadblocks are common. Do not be scared or intimidated; just be firm and polite when you run into a police checkpoint.

Relationships with the Turkmens [ edit ]

The Turkmen authorities do not take too kindly to foreign men mingling with Turkmen women. During the Niyazov years, foreign nationals wanting to marry Turkmen women had to pay a fee of at least $50,000 to the Turkmen government.

Other things to watch out for [ edit ]

• Your guide does not have to accompany you if you want to leave your hotel and go for a walk. If you are a man, try not to walk with a female companion (if it is not your wife or girlfriend) — the police may think that this is a walk with a prostitute, and may simply arrest you. In Turkmenistan, both prostitutes and clients are severely punished.
• Turkmenistan is perhaps the hottest country in the post-Soviet space. There is a sharp, dry, subtropical-inland climate, that is, palm trees do not grow, but in summer it is extremely hot and dry. Winter is cold and windy, and in spring and autumn it is cloudy and rainy. In summer, from May to September, Turkmenistan is even hotter than in neighboring Uzbekistan, but slightly cooler than in Iran. In June, July and August, the temperature in cities can approach +50 degrees Celsius, which is why there are very few people on the streets during the day. The locals try to do all their business in the morning or in the evening, when it's not so hot. Severe gales and dust storms often occur (a dry and hot wind called the "Afghan wind" is active here).
• When talking to ordinary citizens, not to mention civil servants, be extremely careful in your statements about the ruling regime, politics and the current socio-economic situation in the country. There are a lot of Turkmen security officers disguised in civilian clothes, who are primarily interested in foreigners. They also analyze the current mood among the people. You can acquire the status of a political criminal. Rights and freedoms are not respected in the country. Turkmen security officers are especially vigilant towards journalists and bloggers.
• It is better not to go outside after 22:00, as you may be accused of violating the curfew, which is often announced without notice. Turkmen security officers and security forces in general are obsessed with espionage. Even at night there are a lot of police patrols.
• Turkmenistan borders Afghanistan from the southeast through steppe hills. Try not to approach the border zone both with Afghanistan and with other neighbors, since the danger comes not from imaginary Afghan militants, but from Turkmen border guards and security officers, who, seeing a foreigner in this zone, will definitely detain you.
• In Turkmenistan, even voluntary homosexual relations between men are still a criminal offense and can be punishable by imprisonment from 2 to 20 years. If this is relevant to you, try not to advertise your orientation at all.
• Since most of the country is occupied by deserts and steppes, it is very likely that you will encounter snakes and scorpions. There are many poisonous ones among them. Be careful when walking off the roads.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

Medical supply does not correspond to American or European standards. Bring the medicines you need for your personal use with you, as they will be unavailable outside of Ashgabat. A travel insurance covering hospital care and an emergency flight to your home country is strictly recommended.

Vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, polio, hepatitis A and B are recommended. A vaccination against typhus is also recommended in case you stay in poor hygienic conditions, and a course of 3 vaccinations against rabies is recommended for long term stays and frequent contact with animals or if you are not able to get to a clinic to be treated within 18 hours of being bitten.

Avoid drinking tap water. Tap water in Turkmenistan is known to contain traces of toxic metals, and this can cause long-term health problems.

Fruits and vegetables should be peeled before consumption. Avoid dairy products as they are not pasteurized.

Respect [ edit ]

The Turkmens in general are friendly and hospitable, sometimes even to a fault.

Saving face is an important cornerstone of Turkmen culture, so try to be prudent and careful with what you say; Turkmens are sensitive to being beckoned directly.

Although the country may have wonderful photo opportunities, do not photograph or record people without their permission .

Although Turkmenistan is a Muslim (but secular) country, most people hold secular, liberal views (but this does not apply to tolerance of LGBT people and freedom of speech outside the family). They are not as devout as their neighbors, for example. Alcohol consumption is normal for most men.

Turkmens, as a rule, do not participate in public displays of affection, as this is considered disrespectful. Holding hands and hugging in public is also tacitly prohibited.

Sensitive issues [ edit ]

For your own safety, it is strongly advised that you refrain from discussing politics and anything negative about the country.

The Turkmen government — in particular the leaders Serdar Berdimuhamedow and Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow — are, at least publicly, very highly revered in Turkmen culture. Any form of disrespect — such as criticisms or insults — towards them and the government is taken very seriously and is severely punished. Keep your personal views about them to yourself.

Turkmens, in general, are remarkably sensitive to negative comments and views about their country. Insulting or negative comments about the country or locals may culminate in arguments.

Home Etiquette [ edit ]

• When entering someone's home, always take off your shoes . Not doing so is considered impolite.
• Never show up to someone's home empty handed . A small gift would suffice. Very expensive gifts will be viewed with suspicion.
• When visiting someone's house you will usually be offered bread . Be sure to use both of your hands to eat it. Refusing this would reflect poorly on your hosts.
• Turkmens (especially women) are incredibly superstitious. Whistling is unacceptable in every Turkmen house. It is commonly believed that whistling will make the owner of the house poor. Turkmens on certain days do not wash, do not cut their nails, do not clean, and abstain from multiple other seemingly common actions, and expect the same from guests. For example, stand right on the doorstep or cleaning the house after dark is considered a bad act.

Work [ edit ]

Although Turkmenistan is in dire need of qualified and simply skilled workers, Turkmenistan has extremely strict immigration laws, and it is impossible for a foreigner to get a work permit, with rare exceptions, if you are an employee of a lucky company that miraculously concluded an agreement with the government of Turkmenistan on the construction or maintenance of some building, construction or industrial facility. Here, foreigners are not welcome to move to work at the state level, primarily because of the country's isolationist policy and fear of imaginary spies, and not because the state wants to protect the country's jobs from foreigners for its citizens.

Connect [ edit ]

Turkmenistan is, by design, one of the most expensive and difficult places in which to communicate.

By phone [ edit ]

Turkmenistan has only one mobile phone provider: TM Cell.

Internet [ edit ]

Internet services are heavily monitored and censored in Turkmenistan. In addition, the internet is characterised by a few other features: it is very expensive (normally 5$/hour), slow and unreliable. Major hotels have access to Wi-Fi. Other places do not.

Access to social media websites such as Facebook, Twitter, Tiktok and YouTube are blocked, as is access to messaging services like WhatsApp, Telegram, and WeChat. Furthermore, you cannot access many news sites, including Russian news sites. Apple iMessage may work.

Always assume that the Ministry of Industry and Communication is watching your every move online. If you are not comfortable with them violating your privacy, it would be better to not connect at all.

Most if not all popular VPN services are blocked in Turkmenistan. You may be able to use a VPN that you set up by yourself or a company VPN, although these are by no means guaranteed to work.

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Turkmenistan Travel

Turkmenistan is like all hidden treasure - hard to access and a little dusty, yet worth every ounce of effort and more. Turkmenistan travel will take you through the mysterious Karakum Desert, replete with Silk Road secrets and half-buried ruins. Just when you think you’ve left civilization behind, age-old traditions preserved by long-robed desert villagers will leave you stunned and impressed. On the desert’s sandy cusp, the Caspian Sea materializes like a long-awaited mirage almost too good to be true.

Capital city Ashgabat is an experience in itself, a trophy of grandeur clad in marble that embodies the definition of extravagant. Meanwhile, the mummified cities of Merv, Kunya-Urgench and Gonur Depe sprawl their sleepy foundations beneath the sun’s enduring glint. Akhal-Teke horses, the pride of all Turkmen, are a living link to the nation’s warring, nomadic past, a history barely detected in the poised, courteous manner of its citizens today who welcome curious visitors with a reserved yet distinct air of hospitality.

Turkmenistan Guide by Local Travel Expert

• 1. Is Turkmenistan Worth Visiting?
• 2. Your Dream Vacation
• 3. Visa Matters
• 4. Is Turkmenistan Safe for Travel?
• 5. Choose Your Transport
• 6. Turkmenistan Travel Seasons
• 7. Turkmenistan Travel Map
• 8. How Many Days Do You Need in Turkmenistan?
• 9. At Your Service
• 10. Holidays and Festivals
• 11. Curious about Turkmen Cuisine?
• 12. Dos and Don’ts in Turkmenistan
• 13. Speak the Language
• 14. Virtual Turkmenistan Travel Guide: Further Reading
• 15. Did You Know That…

Is Turkmenistan Worth Visiting?

Regarded among the least-visited countries on earth and covered in nearly 75 percent desert, the question of what attracts visitors to Turkmenistan is a valid one. Consider some of the top reasons why tourists who have gone before you have fallen in love with this far-flung oddity:

Turkmenistan is exotic in every sense of the word, a country lost in time whose tribal roots and ancestral ties to the Great Silk Road are still palpable everywhere you turn. Its traditional culture and sheer remoteness appeal to travellers who desire authentic, unpredictable experiences in one of the few corners of the planet not yet transformed by globalization.

Turkmenistan is eccentric , a land determined to be unique in any way possible. From strange holidays to distinctive headdresses to Guinness-worthy attractions, this country will not be put in a box. Vacationers who are seeking an out-of-the-ordinary destination sure to defy all your previous travel experiences need look no further.

Turkmenistan is endearing , not only for its uniqueness but for the history that exudes from its dusty ruins, the graceful and dignified people who inhabit its towns and the unmatched beauty of its prize-winning carpets, pure-bred horses and natural attributes. Those who wish to be impacted during their travels on a deeper, heartfelt level should consider Turkmenistan travel.

Your Dream Vacation

We realize that few people have ever placed ‘Turkmenistan’ and ‘dream vacation’ in the same sentence, which is a pity considering all that’s packed into this destination.

History buffs can spend days roaming archaeological sites and clambering through archaic city remains, while outdoor adventurers camp, trek and off-road their way through Turkmenistan’s wild terrain. Animal lovers will be delighted to come face-to-face with more camels than they’ve seen in a lifetime and meet true horse whisperers caring for Turkmen’s finest steeds. Cultural enthusiasts can lose themselves in the museums, bazaars and quirky monuments in the cities before brushing shoulders with desert and mountain dwellers in places you likely won’t find on a map. All will return home with stories to recount, memories to last a lifetime and a new land etched on their hearts.

Our Turkmenistan tourism packages vary in length from day trips around major cities to extended cross-country expeditions and tours that spill over into neighboring Uzbekistan and beyond. Each guide and driver is experienced, knowledgeable and up-to-date on all regulations pertaining to foreigners, and every tour has been constructed with your safety and optimal experience in mind.

There is no lack of things to do in Turkmenistan. Go beyond imagination into reality by checking out some of the greatest adventures awaiting you:

Turkmenistan Visa Matters

Turkmenistan’s visa process, from which no one is exempt, has duly earned the country the reputation as the most challenging destination to visit in Central Asia. On the plus side, Advantour or your selected travel agency will walk you through the process, and most* of our clients who apply for the tourist visa do indeed receive it. And just remember, the extra hassle is part of the unusual experience that is Turkmenistan and well worth the prize!

Tourist visas will be granted by the Turkmenistan Embassy in your country only to individuals who have pre-booked a guided tour of the country, while transit visas are less commonly issued for up to 5 days to those who can prove their need to pass through the country by land or air during their travels.

Learn all about visa requirements and support here .

Is Turkmenistan Safe for Travel?

What Turkmenistan lacks in accessibility and tourist-friendly visas it makes up for in personal safety, which is all but guaranteed once you have arrived. The country is a very safe destination for travellers, with petty crime extremely uncommon and violent offenses even rarer.

Unless you’re passing through on a transit visa, independent travel in Turkmenistan is not permitted. You will be required to travel with a licensed guide and will thus be accompanied at almost all times. Most of these chaperones really do serve as an invaluable bridge into the culture, a handy interpreter and an experienced guide through the endless wilderness, whose heat index, natural wildlife and sheer size are fare more likely to pose a threat to unprepared trekkers than acts of human crime.

When in country, follow the obvious precautions of keeping your valuables in a safe place and abide by local law. In reality, very few tourists encounter safety or legal issues in Turkmenistan, yet be aware that failure to adhere to local guidelines is more likely to cause trouble for your local contacts than it is for you.

Choose Your Transport

Turkmenistan may be isolated from the global community, yet even this hermit enclave is easily accessible by a network of flights that connect it to major cities including Istanbul, Dubai, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Delhi, Bangkok and Almaty. Transcontinental sojourners will be pleased to know that there are also several land borders with Uzbekistan and Iran that are usually open to foreigners.

Most tourists who wind up in Turkmenistan are accompanied by a mandatory guide who will organize all of your in-country travels in advance. Typical modes of transportation include private vehicles in the city, 4WD for desert treks and inexpensive flights for covering longer distances. Train travel, although possible with a guide, is less common than in neighboring Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.

Turkmenistan Travel Seasons

Turkmenistan’s desert temps may have earned it the title of ‘Hottest Country in Central Asia’, yet there is far more to its climate and terrain than just sand and heat. When booking your Turkmenistan tour, consider the unique qualities of each season:

Winter:  Turkmenistan’s winters can be surprisingly cold in the mountains and the northern regions which brush Uzbekistan’s border. The country also welcomes most of its precipitation during this season, so come prepared to weather the snowfall, especially in the desert.

Summer: July and August in the Karakum Desert are not for the faint of heart, yet for those willing to brave the heat, Turkmenistan’s summers are the ideal time to relax at Awaza’s Caspian Sea coast, camp in the Kopet Dag Mountains and have wide city boulevards all to yourself.

Spring: Central Asia is most glorious in spring, and Turkmenistan is no exception. Mild weather, festive holidays, budding landscapes and fresh produce paint the nation in an irresistible array of colors from March – June.

Autumn: A short-lived but pleasant season squeezed in between the scorch of summer and chilly precipitation of winter, autumns are filled with delicious fruits and temperate weather in Turkmenistan. Hiking and other outdoor activities are at their best in autumn and spring.

• Turkmenistan Weather
• When is the best time to visit Central Asia?

Turkmenistan Travel Map

Use the Turkmenistan map to locate the country’s major sites and find out what each one has to offer:

How Many Days Do You Need in Turkmenistan?

Every trip to Turkmenistan will be uniquely patterned after the interests, dreams and schedules of each individual traveler. If you’re looking for a general blueprint to follow, however, these guidelines are based on the experiences of numerous tourists before you and can be a helpful starting point for planning your Turkmenistan Travels:

• Ashgabat – Eccentric capital known for its outlandish monuments, marble-coated buildings and creature comforts How long should I stay? 1 day Major sites: Carpet Museum , Arch of Neutrality , Independence Park How to get off the beaten path: Roam the ruins of Anau and Old Nisa Archaeological Site just outside of Ashgabat or relive history at Geok-Tepe Fortress and Mosque
• Kunya-Urgench (near Dashoguz) – Renowned medieval capital city and current UNESCO World Heritage Site How long should I stay? Half a day Major sites: Kutlug Timur Minaret , Kyrk Molla Hill , Fakhreddin Razi Mausoleum How to get off the beaten path: Overnight in Dashoguz, often overlooked by travelers rushing to Kunya-Urgench, or spend time respectfully observing the traditions of local pilgrims at the religious sites
• Merv (near Mary) – One of the world’s largest cities during its Silk Road heyday and current UNESCO World Heritage Site How long should I stay? 2 days, if planning to visit Merv, Mary and nearby Gonur Depe Major sites: Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum , Askhab Mausoleums , Erk and Gyaur Kala How to get off the beaten path: Explore the ruins of Gonur Depe, or relax in Mary with a walk around Mary Historical Museum and the small downtown park
• Nokhur – Mountain villages whose residents are known for their unusual dialect and distinct customs How long should I stay? Half a day, unless you plan to sleep overnight Major sites: Gyz-Bibi Cave , Nokhur Cemetery , peak of the Kopet Dag Mountains How to get off the beaten path: Sleep under the stars or stay overnight at the guesthouse; Tour Geok Depe Horse Farm on the return trip to Ashgabat.
• Balkanabat Vicinity – Launching point to the Caspian Sea and remote, gorgeous nature How long should I stay? 2-4 days in the region Major sites: Awaza Caspian Sea Resort (2 days), Yangikala Canyon (half to full day), Trailblazers Monument How to get off the beaten path: visit Dekhistan city ruins or Tasharvat Caravanserai (both day trips)
• Turkmenabat Vicinity – Turkmenistan’s eastern gateway and second-largest city How long should I stay? 1-1.5 days Major sites: Amul Settlement , Astana-baba Mausoleum , Lebap Regional Museum How to get off the beaten path: Explore Dinosaur Plateau in Koytendag Reserve or Dayakhatyn Caravanserai (both day trips)
• Darvaza – Yawning gas crater near the village of Darvaza in the Karakum Desert How long should I stay? Camp overnight, as the crater is at its finest after dark Major sites: Darvaza Gas Crater , nearby mud and water craters How to get off the beaten path: Stop for photos among the sand dunes or continue heading north to Kunya-Urgench

At Your Service

Turkmenistan can be a challenging country to navigate even for the most experienced of travelers. Advantour stands ready to provide every level of assistance for your trip, from basic advice, hotel reservations and airline bookings to visa support and organized group or private tours.

Our Turkmenistan travel services at a glance:

Turkmenistan Holidays and Festivals

Although popular regional holidays such as New Year, Women’s Day (8th March), Persian New Year (21st March) and Independence Day (27th September) are celebrated in Turkmenistan, if you wish to align your visit with a less conventional holiday , we recommend you aim for one of the country’s more unusual observances:

A Drop of Water is a Grain of Gold Day (1st Sunday in April) –The scarce and precious commodity of water, and those who preserve it in this desert land, are given special focus with outdoor festivals, feasting, sports competitions and an unveiling of the latest hydraulic equipment. Best place to celebrate: parks in Ashgabat

Turkmen Horse Day (last Sunday in April) – Turkmenistan’s national Akhal-Teke horse is commemorated with equestrian games, an International Fair, plenty of song and dance and a beauty contest for the horses. Best place to celebrate: Equestrian Sports Complex near Ashgabat

Turkmen Carpet Day (last Sunday in May) – Since 1992, the country’s prized carpets have received special recognition on this day through exhibitions, conferences, craft fairs and awards ceremonies for the nation’s most outstanding carpet weavers Best place to celebrate: Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat

Day of the Turkmen Melon (2nd Sunday in August) – A melon with its own holiday should not be taken lightly. The day is commemorated with concerts, competitions and, of course, plenty of melon-tasting. Best place to celebrate: Ashgabat, where the largest celebrations are held

Neutrality Day (12th December) – Turkmenistan’s international status as a nation of permanent neutrality is recalled on this day with solemn ceremonies , parades and concerts. Best place to celebrate: Ashgabat

Curious about Turkmen Cuisine?

Local cuisine blends regional favorites with uniquely Turkmen creations. Our list of Top 10 meals to sample while traveling in Turkmenistan:

Juicy oven-baked shepherd’s pie traditionally cooked by burying in hot sand and embers.

Grilled and marinated meat or vegetables, best when cooked with firewood from the saxaul desert tree.

Small chunks of stewed mutton or beef mixed with raw onion, breadcrumbs and bouillon.

The original dograma was so good it earned this soupy spinoff.

Fried rice dish of carrots, onions and chicken, sturgeon, beef or mutton flavored with garlic, cloves or dried fruits.

Lamb rib stew eaten with chorek, a local flatbread baked in a clay oven.

If you think fruit doesn’t belong on a list of meals, you’ve never tasted Turkmenistan’s irresistible melons.

Triangular deep-fried flat pies stuffed with savory fillings, including vegetarian.

A hearty lamb dish so tasty it can be eaten both hot and cold.

Our meat-heavy lineup ends with this ancient shepherd’s dish of aromatic lamb, garlic and paprika.

Read our Culinary Turkmenistan Travel Guidebook for a more in-depth look at the country’s national dishes .

• Turkmenistan’s National Dishes

Dos and Don’ts in Turkmenistan

If you’re planning a trip to Turkmenistan, chances are good that you already know a bit about the nation’s customs and eccentricities. Nevertheless, these pointers, reflective of common-sense courtesy and country-specific constraints, are good to bear in mind.

• Come prepared for potential extreme heat in summer (it is the desert, after all) and surprisingly cold temps during winter, particularly at night
• Recognize that many historical and religious sites are considered sacred by the Turkmen, so avoid speaking loudly, goofing off or interfering with rituals which may be very important to those performing them
• Observe Turkmenistan rules and customs, even if you do not agree with them
• Respect gender boundaries, when possible directing your questions or friendly interactions to someone of the same sex
• Come with a willingness to learn, observe and ask appropriate questions along the way
• Expect a strong internet connection or access to many social and news sites; just take it in stride and enjoy your present surroundings!
• Voice your opinion on political matters or speak negatively of the leadership
• Take photos of people or government buildings without first asking permission
• Expect to find many international products, be it food, clothing or medicines. It’s best to bring whatever you think you may need along with you
• Smoke in public, as this is strictly prohibited

Speak the Language

The Turkmen language is closely related to Turkish. It distinguishes itself in Central Asia with a Latin-based script which is similar to the Turkish alphabet while nevertheless boasting of letters all its own. Russian may prove less useful in rural areas, but is nevertheless the second most widely spoken language in the country.

Virtual Turkmenistan Travel Guide: Further Reading

• Turkmenistan Travel Tips
• Turkmenistan Tours Pages

Did You Know That…

• The flag of Turkmenistan has the most intricate design of any national flag in the world, thanks to the detailed carpet emblem imprinted on it.
• Turkmenistan boasts of its own Jurassic Park, the Dinosaur Plateau in the Koytendag Mountains, containing 2500 footprints of ancient creatures.
• Turkmenistan is the only country in Central Asia where it is illegal to eat horse meat.
• What Turkmenistan lacks in water and fertile soil, it makes up for as the world’s 4th largest producer of natural gas.
• Consequentially, gas, water, salt and electricity are provided to citizens for free.
• Capital city Ashgabat boasts of the highest density of white marble buildings in the world.

Turkmenistan Guide

• Landmarks and Attractions
• Weather and Climate
• UNESCO World Heritage Sites
• Exhibitions & Events
• Travel Restrictions - Covid-19
• Turkmenistan Tourism
• Turkmenistan Trip Planner
• Best Time to Visit
• Solo Traveler Guide
• Things to Do in Turkmenistan
• Turkmenistan Visa
• Embassies in Turkmenistan
• Embassies Abroad
• Crossing Borders
• Telephone Codes

Turkmenistan Services

• Private Tours
• Group Packages
• Cancellation Policy
• Travel Agency

Turkmenistan Travel Guide: An Inside Look at a Bizarre Nation

Before we started our Turkmenistan travel, we were told to picture what it would be like if North Korea and Las Vegas got together and had a baby. Take a second to let that soak in.

Sin City meets one of the most private countries in the world? Hard to imagine. No matter how much research we did, we simply could not wrap our heads around how that description could work.

Fast forward. Now that we’ve been to Turkmenistan and back again, we get it.

It is a country that has a deep history and strong story. It is a nation that has been built up, torn down, built up again, torn down and then rebuilt in the eyes of a ‘visionary’ leader. 

It has both natural and ruined wonders to consume but I think the biggest attraction of all is the chance to look behind the curtain. Or at least peek around the edge and gain some personal insight into a very mysterious place. 

I’ll be honest, our entire visit felt like a dream. It was almost like being in an alternate reality. If you’re looking for a unique and bizarre travel experience than Turkmenistan should be at the top of your travel wish list. 

How to Travel Around Turkmenistan

Table of Contents

Turkmenistan is a country that has only recently opened to tourism. Before this, it was very hard and near impossible for any travelers to visit the country.

While it is now open and easier than ever before (still not easy) to get a visa to visit Turkmenistan, it is not possible to do so independently. As a foreign visitor, you are required to have your visa hosted by and arrange your entire visit through a government-approved tour operator.

We visited Turkmenistan on the recently introduced Best of Uzbekistan & Turkmenistan tour with G Adventures.  They operate their tour in partnership with an approved local operator.

If you’re considering taking a tour in Turkmenistan, this outline will give you a look into the experience you could have by booking this tour.

Disclosure: This tour was in partnership with G Adventures and was provided to us as part of our involvement as G Adventures Wanderers . 

Places to Visit in Turkmenistan Itinerary

Dashoguz (1 Day)

Dashoguz was our first stop after crossing the border from Uzbekistan into Turkmenistan. Being the third-largest city in the country, it is modeled after Ashgabat.

This means one thing, white marble everywhere. I still remember, very vividly, how much the entire tone of our trip changed when we crossed the border. Uzbekistan is a warm welcoming place, with a lot going on in the streets. The locals are everywhere, selling their goods and walking the streets.

In stark contrast, Turkmenistan appears almost sterile and there is nobody to be seen. Anywhere.

Dashoguz is more of a waypoint versus a must-visit stop in Turkmenistan. You would only find yourself here if you traveled north from Ashgabat to visit the UNESCO site of Kunya Urgench or crossed the border from Uzbekistan.

That said, there are many beautiful marble buildings to observe when you are there. The city fails in comparison to Ashgabat, but if it is your first stop in Turkmenistan like it was for us then you will find it impressive.

The town also features a huge square that shows off a massive portrait of the president and a towering flag pole. At the center of the square is a massive portrait of the President, looking down over you as if to say, “I am watching you.”

Before you leave town, be sure to pay a visit to the Bai Bazaar. It is open on the weekends and gave us our first interaction with the local people in Dashoguz. Operating like a traditional market, you can find any and everything here including fresh produce, fruit, meat and packaged goods.

Kunya-Urgench (1 Day)

Once an important stop along the Silk Road, Kunya-Urgench has a rich history of importance. It was once the ancient capital of Northern Khorezm, served as the residence to Khorezm Shah and became the second-largest city after Bukhara.

After 1221, it was known as the ‘heart of Islam’ causing its people to rebel against Genghis Khan. This act led to it being destroyed by the Mongols.

Refusing to give in to its destruction, the city was rebuilt but again destroyed in 1388 by the army of Tamerlane. It remained virtually undiscovered after that until 1831 when the construction of the Khan-Yab canal began.

This history of turmoil and struggle contributes to the poor condition of the site today. Despite this, it is still a fascinating place to visit and we found the best place to interact with local people.

On several occasions during our visit, we were stopped by groups of women, dressed in beautiful traditional clothing, to pose for photos with them.  

The Kunya-Urgench site is one of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites located within the borders of Turkmenistan.

Darvaza (2 Days)

The Darvaza Gas Crater, affectionately known by the locals as the door to hell, is the number one tourist attraction in Turkmenistan. It is a sight to behold and one of the coolest things we’ve ever laid our eyes on.

In 1971, a group of Soviet geologists came to the Karakum Desert, not far from the village of Darvaza. They were intent on tapping into a cavern that was rumored to contain natural gas.

After setting their equipment and starting to drill, the earth beneath gave way and collapsed. This single event resulted in a massive crater that not only consumed the drilling equipment but opened a large gas hole.

Fearing that the hole would release toxic gas into the air, the Soviets decided to light the crater on fire to burn off the gas. What was assumed would only burn for a few days continues to burn to this day. That is a long time for the earth to be leaking gas.

In 2004, the President of Turkmenistan issued an order to relocate the village of Darvaza for safety reasons. Since it has served as the main tourist attraction in the country.

People who are traversing the Silk Road have stopped at the Darvaza Gas Crater, setting up temporary camps before moving on to other parts of the country. Today, one of the government-owned tour companies has installed a permanent yurt camp, that offers travelers a bit more comfort during their visit.

We stayed at this yurt camp and were impressed with the facilities. The camp features showers, bathrooms, running water and concrete pad flooring in the yurts.

They also provided cots, sleeping bags , and pillows. Our stay included meals and I can say without hesitation that enjoying a Turkmeni BBQ meal while watching the sunset over the crater will be a memory that lasts the rest of our lifetimes.

Ashgabat (2-3 Days)

If ever there was a city that commanded a presence, it would be Ashgabat . We may have thought Dashoguz was strange but Ashgabat takes the cake. I have never in my life seen a city with less life. The comparisons that people give it to Pyongyang are warranted. 

All around you are opulent, massive, grandeur buildings constructed in white marble. Beautiful fountains are full of clear running water. Bright green cedar trees lining every boulevard and park walkway. But, no people. 

Our time in Ashgabat was spent sightseeing, literally driving around to the monuments, getting out, learning about them, taking some photos and then getting back in to move on. During this time we saw only military guards, who are on guard outside every major monument and cleaning women. 

Shaking the bizarre is difficult, but I have to say that it does heighten the curiosity and I found myself at full attention during our entire visit. 

At night, the entire city is lit up with fluorescent lights in every neon color you can imagine. From our hotel, which was perched atop a hill overlooking the downtown area, it was hard to not feel like we were in Las Vegas. 

Our hotel even changed colors, if you stayed long enough to look, it transformed from red to green, to blue, to purple, to pink, to yellow and so on. Very strange, but it did have a certain beauty about it. 

Tours in Ashgabat You Shouldn’t Miss:

• City Tour of Ashgabat: To get a better understanding of the city, or at least try to, be sure to take a city tour. The standard tours will take you to the downtown area to visit the Neutrality Arch, World’s Largest Indoor Ferris Wheel, Ertugrul Gazi Mosque, Independence Park, Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque and several other buildings. 
• Night Lights Tour: You simply cannot visit Ashgabat without taking a tour at night once all the lights come on. Driving through the downtown is akin to visiting the Vegas Strip, with the lights shining and reflecting off the bright marble buildings. The city is best viewed from above, so be sure that you ask your driver to bring you to the Wedding Palace, where you can cross the street and see all of Ashgabat in its nighttime glory.
• Akhal Teke Stud Farm: You simply cannot visit Turkmenistan without paying a visit to an Akhal Teke Stud Farm outside of Ashgabat. The Turkmen people are devoted to this breed, which is unique to the country. You will find pictures of this horse on everything including stamps, emblems, signs, currency and even the visa. Besides visiting Darvaza, this was my favorite activity in Turkmenistan. In visiting the farm, we were introduced to the family that operates it. We met the men that train the stallions for exhibition and were even introduced to their prized stallions. They showed us horses, baked us fresh bread from a traditional Turkmen oven and educated about this special breed of horse during our visit. It was the highlight of my trip. 
• Nisa: Another one of Turkmenistan’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Nisa is not to be missed when in Ashgabat. Located just outside the city, the remains are surprisingly intact from the city that was constructed with mud and straw. The site is fascinating and the man that oversees the site is animated and full of information. We enjoyed learning the history and wandering through the still standing corridors. Hard to believe it once served as a supported city to the capital. 

Other Places to Visit in Turkmenistan

• Merv: The last of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, we regret not being able to visit this site work. The photos we have seen of Merv are very impressive. The site was high on our list but once we reached Ashgabat, we realized we didn’t have enough USD to make the trip work while we were there. Word to the wise, bring more money than you think you need. 
• Yangykala Canyon: This is another site I came across in my research of Turkmenistan before visiting. The photos show me that the canyon resembles the same topography of the Grand Canyon. In talking with other travelers that have been to the country, it is recommended to visit. That said, it is incredibly remote and located in the far Western part of Turkmenistan, so I would take some careful coordination with your tour company to pull off. 

Is Turkmenistan Safe?

Turkmenistan is a very unique place and despite things being considerably different than anything we have ever experienced in our travels, we never felt unsafe during our visit.

Visitors are held close and required to be accompanied by a tour guide during their visit. I find it hard-pressed to believe that you could get into any trouble unless you went looking for it. Which we do not recommend.

Most of the cities felt abandoned during our visit. When we were out touring, we saw maybe a dozen people on the streets during our entire visit to the country. Even the mosques were empty.

There is a strong military presence, especially in Ashgabat, near the major monuments. A couple of times we walked from our hotel to a nearby restaurant we never encountered another person.

The few people that we did encounter at various bazaars, stores and restaurants were intrigued with us and very friendly.

How to get to Turkmenistan

For as closed off as Turkmenistan may seem, it is easy to fly in and out of the country. Both Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi offer several flights per day to Europe, often connecting through Azerbaijan on major airlines like Lufthansa.

Flying back to the USA from Ashgabat after our visit, we connected in Azerbaijan before landing in Frankfurt and then onto Chicago.

Once in Turkmenistan, it is possible to fly between the major cities although flights are limited. Once you are in-country, you’ll spend your time touring by car between sites and cities.

It is also possible to enter Turkmenistan by land from Uzbekistan as we did. After leaving Khiva, we drove to the border to cross at Dashoguz.

Our visa arrangements were made in advance by G Adventures and the process was surprisingly smooth. That said, it was time-consuming and a bit bureaucratic.

Turkmenistan Visa

Obtaining a visa to visit Turkmenistan is a process but generally pretty easy. Once you book your tour, the company will then act as your sponsor.

They will gather all of the necessary information from you to apply for your visa from the government.  Once processed, the government will issue an official letter of invitation to your tour operator.

With this document, you can arrive in Turkmenistan and obtain a visa. The cost of the visa is paid for when you arrive in-country. The fee is ever fluctuating and dependent on the country of your passport.

As US citizens, our visa cost was $75 plus a small processing fee, totaling $79 each. The visa is placed into the passport and you are then required to undergo a luggage search and questioning before being permitted to enter Turkmenistan.

The country has very strict laws about medication, particularly prescription drugs. Nothing that is not labeled is permitted and will be confiscated. They also have an extensive banned list, which your tour operator can provide to you before travel.

Drones are also banned within the country. We were all questioned and searched for drones when we crossed the border overland.

Best time to visit Turkmenistan

Unlike the other Central Asian countries, Turkmenistan is best experienced in what we know as the typical shoulder season.

Since Turkmenistan is mostly desert, the summer, which is the most popular time to visit most of the other ‘stan’ countries along the Silk Road, is extremely hot.

In contrast, winter is downright cold. This makes the shoulder season the perfect temperature for exploring this fascinating country. No matter when you go, don’t expect any crowds. We only saw one other group of tourists during our visit.

A breakdown by weather looks like this:

• March to June: You can expect clear skies, sunshine and warm temperatures during the day. Nighttime temps can feel cold, especially in the desert. Combined, this makes the most optimum travel time and, in my opinion, is the best time to visit Turkmenistan. We traveled through both Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan during June.
• July & August: This period is the height of summer and with it, you can expect to experience some extreme heat. It can be too hot to be out during the middle of the day, so consider that if you plan to visit during these months. Temperatures in Ashgabat will easily top 105°F (40°C).
• September to November: The peak heat from summer has passed but you’ll still be warm. It’s a great alternative to the other months and I would say the second-best time option for visiting Turkmenistan.

Political Situation

Turkmenistan is the second most controlled country in the world behind North Korea. There are many restrictions in place for the residents and tourists alike.

You must understand this before your visit to ensure you don’t offend anyone or get into trouble during your visit.

Expect to see widespread use of propaganda that paints the country as the most perfect place in the world to live. Photos of the president can be seen on every street corner and inside every establishment.

When we turned on the TV, we were only able to find programs that showed the happy vibes of life in Turkmenistan. Programs featured public festivals and achievements of the nation for all to see.

While it can be tempting to quiz your guide nonstop about the situation in the country, remember that they live there and believe in what they have been told. It is important to maintain this perspective.

In our experience, the people we came in contact with were friendly but very reserved. They know they are being monitored and are hesitant to say or do anything that might reflect poorly on them.

You will never hear them talking badly about their country and often give the outward impression that they are holding back.

We encountered this a lot in our travels through China. It can be frustrating to know that they want to be candid, but with respect it is best not to pry. The last thing you want is to put them in a position that could jeopardize them.

Taking Taxis in Turkmenistan

As independent travel in Turkmenistan is off-limits, don’t expect to be able to hail a cab. If you wish to go somewhere in your ‘spare time’, you will need to arrange a private car with the company that is hosting you in the country.

That said, you will likely not be given the option to travel anywhere on your own. There were two instances where we walked to a restaurant that was close to our hotel without our guide. Both times were stopped by the hotel staff and questioned.

I do not doubt in my mind that they called ahead to the restaurant to ensure that we arrived there, stayed only there and then returned to the hotel.

Getting Money in Turkmenistan

The local currency in Turkmenistan is the Minat and the value of it is not currently stabilized. This means that the official rate listed on the exchange market is not the one that is widely used in the country.

A lucrative black market exists for exchanging currency and it is wise to do your homework in advance or ask around to multiple sources that are not your tour agency, to figure out what the going rate is during your visit.

The best rate is obtained at the bazaars and can be upwards of three times the official exchange rate.

Your tour operator will also be able to exchange money for you, but keep in mind that the rate will be better than the official rate yet worse than the bazaar. They build in a cut.

ATM’s do not exist in Turkmenistan, nor does an official currency exchange place. It is also not possible to use credit cards, anywhere within the country. Not even with the in-country tour companies.

You need to bring plenty of US dollars only. In our experience, booking extra tours and add ons once in destination required US dollars only. The companies would not take Minat due to the widely varying exchange rates at which it is obtained.

The exact opposite, all restaurants require payment in Minat. So you have to operate with both currencies when you are there. Plan and make sure you have more than enough USD currency for your stay.

Food in Turkmenistan

Nobody is writing home about the cuisine in Turkmenistan but in all honesty, we thought it was decent. At times it was simple, sure, but nothing out of the ordinary compared to the food in other countries in Central Asia.

On par with the rest of the Silk Road, Turkmen people enjoy meat-centric dishes and salads. In both Dashoguz and Ashgabat, many restaurants served varied cuisine from other Central Asian countries and it was always possible to get pasta or pizza. As weird as that sounds.

Smaller towns and camping areas were more basic, serving soup, rice, meat and a variety of salads. Beer is everywhere too.

The official language of Turkmenistan is Turkmen and is spoken by 72% of the population within the country. Russian is the next widely spoken language by around 12% of the population.

Outside of the tourism industry, English is not widely spoken. That said, there were plenty of instances where local people attempted to engage with us.

Sign language is universal, so don’t be shy even if you don’t speak Turkmen or Russian.

Internet & Data

During your time in Turkmenistan, you should plan to be completely offline. Don’t be fooled by the offering of WIFI that you will find in most hotels and restaurants throughout the country.

You may be able to connect but everything you would want to use is blocked. All social apps including Instagram, Facebook, Snapchat and Twitter are blocked. Skype and most email services are also blocked.

Oddly enough, I was able to access the CNN app on my phone and it was not censored. People in our group attempted to use a VPN but it was not possible. They were never allowed to connect with it.

We also saw the odd stall in the bazaars that offered cell phone data service. One person that was traveling in our group attempted to make a purchase but when our tour guide caught wind of it, he strongly advised against it. 

That should tell you everything. I wouldn’t plan on purchasing a SIM card during your visit as it could compromise your phone. 

Keep in mind that everything in Turkmenistan is highly monitored. Anything you do once connected to a WIFI point or activate a SIM card will be monitored and tracked.

Taking Photos in Turkmenistan

Photography and filming is a bit of a touchy subject while in Turkmenistan. While it is fine for you to have your camera and photograph the many unique, strange and beautiful things you will see during your visit, keep in mind that there are many restrictions.

Anything you see that is government-related is strictly off-limits to photography and film. Photographing military guards is also a big no-no.

When wandering the bazaars, do not shoot photos at will. If you wish to take a photo, you need to ask permission from any of the people in the photo. Most of the time they are happy to pose for a photo or allow you to photography their stalls.

Sneaking photos isn’t wise nor something we encourage. People were watching out for each other and we had one instance in our group where someone asked to photograph something, got permission but offended someone that was walking by at the time.

They had to show the person the photo to ensure that they hadn’t captured them in it. With tour guides and booked experiences, there were no issues taking photos with people in them.

In terms of carrying equipment around, we felt safe. Nobody looked twice at our gear and we walked around all of the cities with it around us.

Shopping in Turkmenistan

Shopping is limited compared to, say, Uzbekistan. There is little opportunity to purchase locally made goods.

We stopped at a couple of bazaars during our tour and these were our only shopping options. As these markets serve the locals, there was everything imaginable on offer.

Each one had a section for tourist type trinkets, but they were mostly made up of practical things and produce.

A couple of things that should be on your list are locally made bracelets and Turkmen hats. You can also purchase baseball caps that say Turkmenistan on them and small novelty flags.

In Ashgabat, be sure to try the fresh caviar. Turkmenistan is the world’s largest exporter of this expensive hors d’oeuvre, and you can both try and purchase it from the bazaar here.

Turkmenistan Travel Budget

Due to the regulation and requirement that you hire a guide for the duration of your time in Turkmenistan, travel here is not cheap.

Tours and transportation are on par with Western prices. Restaurants are on the cheaper side, although some of the higher-end ones we were brought to were more costly.

You should expect to pay in the neighborhood of $2000 or more US dollars for a 4-day visit that includes Ashgabat and Darvaza. To add in Dashoguz, Kunya Urgench, Merv and/or Turkmenbashi you can expect to pay more.

That said, all of your transportation, accommodation and major entry fees will be included in that price. Meals, souvenirs and tips are not included.

In places like Kunya Urgench, Nissa and Merv, you can expect to also pay camera fees. The cost varies depending on still or video. This can be paid in Minat or USD. 

More on Central Asia:

• Essential Uzbekistan Travel Guide: Everything We Wish We’d Known
• Looking Beyond the Stan: 33 Epic Kyrgyzstan Photos
• Kok Boru in Kyrgyzstan: An Intimate Look At Dead Goat Polo
• Kyrgyzstan Trekking: Chon Kyzyl Suu to Jeti Oguz
• How to Travel Tibet: Everything You Need to Know
• People of Tibet in 25 Photos
• Travel Insurance: Do You Really Need It?
• Plan Your Dream Trip

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Lina is an award-winning photographer and writer that has been exploring the world since 2001. She has traveled to 100 countries on all 7 continents. Member: SATW, NATJA, ATTA, ITWA

2 thoughts on “Turkmenistan Travel Guide: An Inside Look at a Bizarre Nation”

I love all your photos! Looking forward to see all the amazing and unique architectures in Turkmenistan. Keeping this post handy for our future travels.

What a great article! We’re currently dreaming of going to Turkmenistan again – we’ve been there before and we love, love love it! Here’s to hoping for a better 2021 with loads of travel plans and new experiences! – Cecilie

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Getty Images/iStockphoto

With its lavish marble palaces, gleaming gold domes and vast expanses of manicured parkland, Ashgabat (‘the city of love’ in Arabic) has reinvented itself as a showcase city for the newly independent republic and is definitely one of Central Asia's – if not the world's – strangest places. Built almost entirely off the receipts of Turkmenistan’s oil and gas revenues, the city’s transformation continues at break-neck speed, with whole neighbourhoods facing the wrecking ball in the name of progress, and gleaming white marble monoliths springing up overnight like mushrooms.

Attractions

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National Museum

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Independence Square

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Arch of Neutrality

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Carpet Museum

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Museum of Fine Arts

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Inside Ashgabat, the flashy but empty 'city of the dead'

Film-maker and ‘dark tourist’ David Farrier visited Turkmenistan’s newly built capital, designed to cope with anything – as long as it’s preplanned

W andering around Ashgabat, I had Land of Sunshine , the song by Faith No More, looping in my head. The capital city of Turkmenistan, is blisteringly dry and hot, dumped in the middle of the desert. It also holds the record for the highest density of buildings made from white marble, which bounce the sun right back in your face, blinding you.

I’d come to Turkmenistan to shoot a documentary series for Netflix called Dark Tourist about offbeat travel destinations. This also led me to Fukushima, Japan, for a spot of nuclear tourism; smalltown America, where I was tortured in an extreme haunted house attraction ; and Medellín, Colombia, where I saw the sights with Popeye, a former hitman for Pablo Escobar.

While researching the show I’d been told that Turkmenistan was “the new North Korea”, a bucket list destination for the daring traveller. I’d heard that the hermit kingdom bordered by Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Iran and Afghanistan had an egomaniac leader who hated animals and had an atrocious record with human rights.

Turkmenistan doesn’t exactly embrace a free and open press, so when I entered the country last September, I did so under the guise of a sports reporter. Somehow Turkmenistan had negotiated to host the Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games, an official Olympic event for which it constructed a $5bn (£3.8bn) village. Huge stadiums, a monorail system, indoor and outdoors sports arenas and giant sprawling highways were surrounded by brand-new hotels, apartments and malls.

Turkmenistan has the world’s fourth-largest natural gas reserves, more than the United States, but it isn’t exactly spreading the wealth. Much of the population outside the capital is impoverished. There was a reason we weren’t allowed to leave the city limits: that would spoil the illusion.

Walking around Ashgabat, blinded by an ocean of marble, I felt terribly alone. Athletes limped around, as security watched on, but this was no Rio, attended en masse by the public. It was very, very quiet. I could see why locals were said to call it the “city of the dead” under their breath.

President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov’s smiling image was on the front page of the paper you’re given on the plane flying in, projected on screens over Olympic arenas, and ever-present in the city. Shopping malls sold framed posters of him you could pop on your bedroom wall. If you had a camera in tow, locals refused to talk about their leader. Even if you didn’t, they only nervously said good things. This is a city where political dissent is not allowed. Independent human rights monitors are not allowed into Turkmenistan, but Human Rights Watch notes that torture is still a “grave problem” in its prisons. It’s unknown how many people have been jailed for political reasons, and those locked up have no idea when they will get out – they are simply “disappeared”.

Oppression permeates all parts of life: in preparation for the games, officials forcibly removed air conditioning units from apartment buildings, saying they were an eyesore – leaving residents to deal with temperatures of over 40C.

And don’t even think about being gay in Turkmenistan .

With that in mind, I was curious to see Berdimuhamedov at the games’ opening ceremony. The last time he was at a major sporting event, he face-planted off his horse (state media turned a blind eye). But just before we were due to leave for the arena, after a particularly hot and testing day, I was leaning on my hotel room mirror – and my hand went directly through it.

Bleeding everywhere, my hand sliced open, I made my way down to the lobby. The shocked staff didn’t know what to do. One of them seemed intent on making sure I paid for any cleaning due to the bloody trail I’d left from my room to lift – not to mention a new mirror.

I could see the cracks in the facade of normality. This was a new city that didn’t know how to cope with anything that wasn’t preplanned. Our crew had experienced it all week – just navigating the Olympic Village was fraught with frustration and nonsensical bureaucracy. Guides steered us where they wanted to go. It was illegal to leave the city limits. Public transport made no sense. There was only one way to do anything.

Eventually I ended up in an ambulance. It was like a prop from a film set – there were shelves and medical kits, but they all appeared empty. At the hospital, I filled out forms I couldn’t understand, and hospital staff carried out blood tests. They were friendly and caring, but you could feel the uncertainty in the room. Everything was new. After hours of waiting with a blood-soaked towel wrapped around my hand, I was taken to a brand-new operating theatre and, without warning, given a hearty dose of ketamine.

I left my body and entered a multicoloured box that reflected all the colours of the rainbow back at me. My consciousness drifted around in this box; I thought, “I should get back to my body sometime, or I will be dead.” I reflected on what I’d seen in Ashgabat, all the giant structures that seemed built purely to be awarded world records. The world’s largest indoor ferris wheel. The world’s largest star.

Maybe that’s why Faith No More had been banging around in my head the whole time I’d been in Ashgabat – the band’s logo, two squares superimposed to form a star, also served as this city’s main motif. It was everywhere. The airport, part of that $5bn dollar spend for the games, is shaped like a giant bird – another world record. I’d go there for that airport alone, to be honest.

Eventually I blacked out, and then I woke up.

Later, released on to the street, the assistant director and I giddily made our way to the opening ceremony of the Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games. Still slightly high on ketamine, the lyrics to that 90s song bounced around in my head: “Prepare for a series of comfortable miracles / From fasting to feasting / And life to you is a dashing, bold adventure / So sing, and rejoice.”

Those words seemed so appropriate for this city trying so painfully hard to show off how impressive it was, with its sparkly new buildings and an opening ceremony that put Rio’s to shame. Still somewhat euphoric from the ketamine, I spotted Berdimuhamedov a few stalls over. He was a tiny figure: unimpressive, flanked by various officials. He was grinning his head off. This was his time to shine – if only anyone was watching.

• David Farrier’s Dark Tourist is on Netflix

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Turkmenistan – top 5 Places to Visit

#1 Ashgabat – Monumental capital city full of Marble and golden architecture

 #2 Darvaza – gas crater also known as a “Gate of Hell”

#3 YangyKala – surreal cliffs and landscape of canyons

#4 Merv – Ruins of an ancient city that was once one of the biggest cities in the world

#5 Gonur Tepe – one of the most ancient settled cities

If you would like to explore these places in a small group tour, you can join our Best of Turkmenistan Tour , or if you would like to organize a private tour that offers flexibility in terms of schedule and sightseeing places, just let us know through our booking form .

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What travellers are saying

Venice launches world first tourist entrance fee in bid to fight overcrowding

VENICE, Italy — Ancient and beautiful, this city is sometimes referred to as an open air museum — and now visitors to Venice will have to pay an entry fee after the tourist hub on Thursday became the first in the world to introduce a charging system for day-trippers.

In a bid to thin out the crowds that throng to see the canals, bridges and striking architecture during vacation season, day-trippers will have to pay 5 euros ($5.35) to enter the lagoon city on 29 peak days, mostly on weekends, as part of a trial phase until July 14. 

Tourists who have booked at least one night at a hotel in the city will be exempt from the charge, as will residents, workers and students in the city. Visitors under age 14 will also be exempt. But like the day-trippers, they will also have to ensure they have registered online and received QR codes.  

Those without smartphones will have to go to the city’s Santa Lucia train station to buy tickets. 

Among the thousands of people lining up at the station for a ticket Thursday was Donna Porter-Mutchler, a tourist from Tennessee, who told NBC News she thought the charge was “a wonderful idea.”  

“Venice deserves to be taken care of,” she said. “I think it’s more than worth it. I come here often, and I’ll pay every time.” 

While there will be no limits on the number of people who can register, officials hope the fee will put people off on days it applies. 

“We are not looking to collect money, tax people or introduce a police state,” Simone Venturini, Venice’s tourism councilor, told NBC News. “We are being democratic about it, but the important message is: ‘Please, if you are a day-tripper, choose another day.’”

While there are no turnstiles at the city’s entrance points to make sure people have passes, inspectors will make random checks and issue fines of 50 to 300 euros to anyone who has failed to register.

Prominent signs across the city and a TV and newspaper advertising campaign have been launched in Italy and some other countries to let people know about it. And with the help of artificial intelligence , Mayor Luigi Brugnaro has also recorded a video message in several languages to inform tourists about the charge.  

Officials in the city estimate an average of 50,000 people a day visit Venice, an influx that almost matches the resident population, some of whom are unhappy about the new charge.  

“Venice has turned into Disneyland, where tourists are catered more than residents, and charging $5 is not going to stop anyone,” Federica Toninello of the Social Assembly for Housing and the Solidarity Network for Housing in Venice said Thursday. “It’s just propaganda.”

Others, like tourist guide Luisella Romeo, said they were concerned about the use of personal data collected by the new system. “That’s an invasion of privacy. Those details will remain in the system for five years and could be given to third parties, public and private,” she said. 

But officials in the city, which narrowly escaped being placed on UNESCO’s “World Heritage in Danger” list last year, in part because the United Nations body decided that it was not addressing concerns that its delicate ecosystem risked being overwhelmed by mass tourism, have insisted that something needed to be done. 

Three years ago, large cruise ships were banned from sailing into the Venetian lagoon , and the city has also announced limits on the sizes of tourist groups.

While the charge in Venice is still in its experimental stage, other popular Italian tourism destinations, like Lake Como, which has struggled with overcrowding for years, are watching closely.

Only time will tell whether it ends up dead in the water.  

Claudio Lavanga is Rome-based foreign correspondent for NBC News.

A Japanese town will erect a large mesh barrier to stop negligent foreign tourists from taking photos of Mount Fuji

• Tourists flock to Fujikawaguchiko, a town in Japan, to take pictures of Mount Fuji. 
• An official said foreign tourists crowd the area, leave trash, and ignore traffic laws. 
• In response, the town will erect a mesh barrier blocking the scenic view to dissuade tourists. 

A Japanese resort town will erect an eight-foot-tall barrier to dissuade poorly behaved foreign tourists from photographing Mount Fuji at a popular photo spot.

An official from Fujikawaguchiko discussed the preventive measure in a statement to Agence France-Presse , a French international news agency, on Friday.

"It's regrettable we have to do this, because of some tourists who can't respect rules," the official said.

According to AFP, local construction of the mesh barrier, which will stretch about 65 feet, will begin as soon as next week.

Fujikawaguchiko has several areas where tourists can snap a photo of Mount Fuji, the tallest peak in Japan, but the outlet many are flocking to a specific photo-op spot near a Lawson convenience store. Lawson is unique to Japan, making photos of the store and Mount Fuji appealing to foreign tourists.

"A reputation has spread on social media that this spot is very Japanese, making it a popular photo location," the official said.

The official told AFP that foreign tourists had caused disruptions amid their quest for the perfect photo, including overcrowding the area, leaving behind trash, and ignoring traffic regulations.

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They added that the mesh barrier is the final resort after foreign tourists ignored traffic signs and warnings from security.

The barrier will also help local businesses, the official said, pointing toward a nearby dental clinic where some tourists have parked without permission. Others were spotted climbing onto the dental office's roof to take photos of Mount Fuji, the official said.

The official told AFP that locals hope to remove the barrier once tourists' behaviors have changed.

Representatives for Fujikawaguchiko Tourism Federation did not immediately respond to Business Insider's request for comment.

Fujikawaguchiko's latest move against foreign tourists comes after a similar situation in Kyoto.

An executive district council member for Gion, considered Japan's geisha district, told AFP this month that tourists are banned from entering certain private streets . The official said tourists had been misbehaving.

"We don't want to do this, but we're desperate," the official told AFP.

The country has experienced a tourism boom that's brought 25 million tourists to Japan in 2023, according to Bloomberg.

The outlet that Japan's government hopes to reach 60 million visitors by 2030.

Watch: 1,000-year-old 'Naked Man' festival ends due to Japan's aging population

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Pictures: Flamingo Point at Discovery Cove

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Flamingos are led to the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

Preview of the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

Guests feed flamingos during the Flamingo Mingle experience — Preview of the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

Reporter Dewayne Bevil feeds the flamingos during the Flamingo Mingle experience — Preview of the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

A flamingo preens one of the guests during the Flamingo Mingle experience — Preview of the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

Guests take photos at the new Flamingo Point habitat at Discovery Cove, on Friday, April 26, 2024. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/ Orlando Sentinel)

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