w trek itinerary west to east

Hiking The W Trek In Patagonia: A Self-Guided Itinerary [2024-25]

09 jul 2024 11 nov 2023 | danielle.

You can choose your own adventure when it comes to trekking in Chile, but if you like to plan ahead, here’s our tried-and-tested 5 day/4 night, east-to-west, self-guided itinerary for hiking the W Trek Patagonia .

Last updated on 9 July 2024 by Dan

Torres del Paine National Park is a place so epic and otherworldly, its name is often spoken with a kind of hushed reverence. This vast and dramatic stretch of Chilean Patagonia is home to some of the most mind-blowingly beautiful scenery on Earth, and hiking the W trek is one of the greatest ways to immerse in it.

This is Patagonian hiking at its very best, but  how you trek the W trail is entirely up to you .

You can go with a guide, or do the W trek self guided (in the warmer months anyway). You can stay in lodges and enjoy a cooked meal and a warm bed. You can carry your own gear and pitch your tent in one of the designated campsites along the way, or carry no gear and book a tent at each site. You can carry all your food, or add a half or full board meal package to your booking, or do a bit of both.

We opted to camp but rather than carry all the gear, we arranged for a pitched tent to be waiting for us each day. We packed food for most of the trek and booked a full board meal package (dinner, breakfast and packed lunch) at one of our overnight camping stays.

The direction you hike and the time you take to do the trek is also your call. As occasional hikers with temperamental knees, we opted for the typical self guided W trek itinerary of  5 days and 4 nights .

Many argue that hiking west to east, and saving the striking granite peaks of Las Torres for the last day is a fitting finale to this incredible hike. We took the opposite view though, starting with the awe-inspiring torres and  hiking the W trek east to west  so that we could tackle the toughest legs of the trail in the first couple of days, while we still had plenty of energy.

At the end of the day, no matter how you take on the W hike, you’re still trekking one of the most spectacular trails on the planet. And you’ll still get to enjoy the jaw-dropping vista of Las Torres. Twice even, if you’re keen.

Hiking the W Trek Snapshot Location:  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile Nearest town:  Puerto Natales, Chile Getting to and from the park: Torres del Paine is easily accessible by bus from Puerto Natales. Park entry: Park entry tickets and overnight stays in the park (campsites and lodges) must be arranged before visiting the park. Start and finish:  The W Trek traverses a roughly w-shaped route through Torres del Paine National Park between Refugio Las Torres in the east and Refugio Paine Grande in the west. For this itinerary, we start in the east and hike west. Distance:  appx. 74 kilometres (46 miles) one-way Time:  This itinerary is 5 days and 4 nights Difficulty:  Moderately difficult, with some challenging stretches and steep climbs, plus highly changeable weather. We’re occasional hikers but with some preparation and a reasonable level of fitness, we found the W Trek very do-able (even if all our muscles were screaming for days afterwards!).

What’s in this post?

Preparing for hiking the W Trek Patagonia What time of year is best for hiking the W? Where to stay before and after the trek Entry to Torres del Paine National Park Booking Camping and Accommodation on the W Trail Bus tickets to and from Torres del Paine Packing for the W Trek Our Self-guided itinerary for hiking the W Trail Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Chileno via Las Torres Day 2 – Chileno to Francés Day 3 – Francés to Paine Grande via Francés Valley Day 4 – Paine Grande to Grey Day 5 – Grey to Paine Grande (and return to Puerto Natales)

This post contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through these links we may receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you, which helps us to keep this website running. Thanks for your support!

Preparing for hiking the W Trek Patagonia

We aim to fully check and refresh this post for each trekking high season (October to April). Things can change without notice though, so we recommend also visiting the links below for information while you’re planning and before you go: 

• For the latest updates on requirements for travel to Chile, visit the official  Chile tourism website .
• The W Trek is in Torres del Paine National Park, which is managed by the park agency CONAF. Visit the official national park website for park reports, park entry information and more.
• When you arrive at Torres del Pine National Park and register for your trek, you’ll receive an information guide with a map showing the park’s trails, services and accommodations. The current brochure can be found here .

What time of year is best for hiking the W?

Patagonian weather will keep you on your toes no matter when you visit Torres del Paine National Park. Be ready for everything. However, there are two distinct periods to be aware of when planning your trip.

High Season – October to April

These are the warmer months in the southern hemisphere, and December to March is the busiest time of year to trek in the park, with visitation peaking over January and February. During this period, you can choose to do a self-guided hike or go with a guide .

If you’re travelling in high season, and particularly if you’re planning to visit during the peak months, be sure to reserve your place in the lodges or campgrounds as far in advance as possible . Torres del Paine is now one of the most popular places to trek in Chile and overnight places book up very quickly.

We hiked the W trail towards the end of March, and while sections were busy, like the path to Las Torres, there were stretches where we wouldn’t see more than a handful of people in hours.

That said, despite making our campsite reservations months prior to our visit, we initially struggled to find availability and had to change our trekking dates to suit what we were able to book.

Low Season – May to September

Many people say winter is even more magical in Torres del Paine.

The park entry fee drops during the low season and you’ll find far fewer people in the park. But temps will also be lower, daylight hours are shorter, rain is frequent and there can be snow and ice. Many of the mountain trails are closed, as are a number of the mountain lodges and services. Trails that are open can close suddenly due to weather (though that can happen at any time of the year). Transport services pause over this period as well.

Most importantly, to do the W Trek or hike to the base of Las Torres during the winter season, you must have a qualified guide . This is for visitor safety and the period typically runs from May until August/September. The O circuit remains closed until October. Check the official Torres del Paine website for more information if you’re planning to visit over this time.

The bottom line: No matter what time of year you visit Torres del Paine, given the changeability of the weather there, you should check in with park agency CONAF for latest updates and closures.

Where to stay before and after the trek

The nearest major population centre, and the main jump-off point for a Torres del Paine trek is Puerto Natales , a low-key Patagonian town hugging the shores of the picturesque Última Esperanza Sound.

The drawcard of Torres del Paine’s trails has seen Puerto Natales develop a buzzing trekker scene.

We suggest giving yourself a couple of days in Puerto Natales before your trek to get organised, shop, hire any gear you need, and sort out transport to and from Torres del Paine if you haven’t already (see our section on sorting out bus tickets further on).

Just about everyone staying in Puerto Natales is out and about doing the same thing, so having extra time in town means you can stress less if you don’t find what you’re looking for in the first place you visit. 

Spending a couple of days here after your trek is also worthwhile – you can rest your weary bones and enjoy this charming little town.

Accommodation in Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales isn’t a big place, but you’ll find everything from budget hostels through to five-star luxury in and around the town.  

We stayed at the charming, centrally-located Hotel Aquaterra both before and after our trek. This is a great mid-range option and we really enjoyed our time here. They also stored our luggage for us while we were on the trail. 

For more accommodation options like this in Puerto Natales, take a look at Booking.com . Or, if you’re after something more in the budget range, you’ll find various hostel options here .

For a lovely upmarket stay right in the centre of town before or after your trek, check out this place .

We’ve also got our eye on this unique domed apartment for a future trip. It’s about eight kilometres (five miles) out of town, but with the views it serves up, we wouldn’t be moving from the window seats anyway. Perfect for a post-trek, legs-up retreat!

Entry to Torres del Paine National Park

Entry to Torres del Paine National Park is ticketed and there are capacity limits in the mountain lodges and campgrounds. This is for the long-term care and protection of this wild and remote place, and for the safety of visitors to the park. So whether you’re planning to hike the W, trek the O circuit or visit for the day, you will need a ticket to get into the park.

You must buy your entrance ticket for Torres del Paine National Park in advance of your visit to the park. Visit the CONAF website to buy your park entry ticket . 

Entry fees vary depending on whether you are Chilean or international, as well as your age, and whether you intend to stay in the park up to, or more than, three days. At last check, international adults 18 and over will pay CLP$31,200 (CLP is Chilean pesos) for up to three days in the park, and CLP$44,500 for more than three days.

Download your ticket to your phone before you head to the park (there’s very limited internet access once you’re there) and carry a printed copy just in case. Bring ID as well to present along with your ticket when you check in at the park.

Booking Camping and Accommodation on the W Trail

There are various ways to stay overnight on the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park, but whether you’re planning a lodge stay, hiring camping equipment, or camping with all your own gear, you’ll need advance reservations to do so.

Overnight reservations are mandatory for Torres del Paine and, like park entry tickets, need to be made in advance . You cannot book camping or accommodation once you’re at the park, or camp outside the designated bookable camping zones.

You’ll also need to carry evidence of your overnight reservations as you may be asked to show proof at any time by a park ranger or when passing through checkpoints. We printed our reservation confirmations and carried these with us.  

With Torres del Paine trekking becoming ever more popular, limited accommodation spots and advance booking necessary, sorting out campsites or lodge accommodation is – in our experience – probably the trickiest part of planning a self guided W trek itinerary. 

For this reason, we recommend booking your overnight stays as far in advance as possible , preferably as soon as bookings open for the season.  

It also pays to be flexible about where you stay, as you may find you need to rework your trekking dates and approach based on what’s available. 

Our final W trail hiking itinerary was the direct result of where and when we could get an overnight booking.

How to book your overnight stays in the park

There are a number of mountain lodges (refuges) and campsites in Torres del Paine, and you can only stay overnight in these designated zones.  

Broadly speaking, the zones in the east are managed by  Las Torres Patagonia  (formerly Fantástico Sur) and those in the west are managed by  Vertice Travel . 

There also used to be a couple of free campgrounds in the park managed by the Chilean park agency, CONAF. However, these campgrounds have been closed for several years now. Visit the CONAF website  for updates. 

You can book campsites and refugio beds direct via the Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice Travel websites, however we know from experience that trying to align availability and book spots for a workable W circuit itinerary across different websites can be complicated and time-consuming. Another reason to plan well ahead.

We’re also aware of a website called Booking Patagonia, which offers an integrated booking system for travel, tickets and accommodation for Torres del Paine.

If you’re keen to go self-guided on the W, but you’d like to have someone else sort out the logistics of your trek, including transport, accommodation, meals and camping gear, check out these two options offered by Flashpacker Connect: 5-day W Trek self-guided camping trip and this 5-day W Trek self-guided refugios (lodges) trip .

Bus tickets to and from Torres del Paine National Park

We based ourselves in Puerto Natales, the nearest town to Torres del Paine, before and after our trek and most travellers do the same. From Puerto Natales, it’s an easy bus trip to and from the park.

If you’re travelling by bus, we recommend organising your bus tickets to and from Torres del Paine well in advance . Don’t leave this until the day you head to the park or you may find the buses already full. 

If you plan to buy your tickets when you arrive in Puerto Natales, aim to do so as soon as you arrive in town. You can buy bus tickets at the main bus station (Terminal Rodoviario), or through your hotel or hostel. We travelled to Puerto Natales by bus so we bought our tickets to Torres del Paine at the bus station the day we arrived. You can also search bus services and buy tickets online here .

It’s important to note that your bus drop-off/pick-up points at the park may vary depending on your final W trail itinerary, so keep this in mind when booking your bus ticket.

If you follow this itinerary and trek from east to west, you’ll start with the bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Armaga . After your trek, you will board the bus at Pudeto for the return journey to Puerto Natales (this follows a catamaran ride across Lake Pehoe to Pudeto from Paine Grande). Vice versa if you’re hiking the W from west to east.  

To ensure you’re on the trail in good time (and in line with this itinerary), we recommend booking one of the earliest buses out of Puerto Natales on Day 1. 

Packing for the W Trek

Any hike, but especially a multi-day hike, can quickly lose its appeal if you’re carrying too much weight in your pack; something we can personally attest to. So we strongly recommend packing light and only carrying the clothes, gear and food you need for the trek.

If you’re travelling longer term and have more stuff with you – which was our situation – leave it in storage at your hotel. Your back will thank you for it.

You can find most of what you need to buy or rent in Puerto Natales for hiking into the surrounding landscapes, from sleeping bags, camping stoves and hiking poles to dried fruit and nuts for your trail mix.

That said, this is a small and relatively remote town and the local prices reflect it. We’re told there’s more choice and better prices at the supermarkets and shops in Punta Arenas, so if you’re coming from or via Punta Arenas, you might consider doing your trek shopping while in that town.

We’ve also read reports that it hasn’t been so easy to find dehydrated meals in Puerto Natales. If you’re planning your menu around these, you might think about sourcing them elsewhere.

It’s important to know that Chile has stringent rules around what foods you can and can’t bring into the country (fresh foods, fruits, honey, etc are a no-no). Be sure to declare any foodstuffs you do bring in and plan on buying most of what you need for trek meals and snacks once you’re in the country.

We had a tight meal plan for our spin on the W, but with hindsight, we would swap out some of the bulkier food stuffs we packed for lighter, more compact foods. Next visit, we’ll be looking to pack some dehydrated camping meals and light-weight but filling carbs like cous cous and oats.

The night before the trek, organise any food you’re carrying into daily packages of brekkie, lunch and dinner. Pre-bundling your meals saves scrabbling around in your pack for particular items on the trail). Then pack all the gear you’ll be taking with you in waterproof bags inside your backpack.

Cash, pesos or credit card? One question we get asked is whether to carry US dollars or Chilean pesos into the park, and whether the refuges accept credit cards. We carried all three. We paid for some things in pesos, like snacks and the shuttle to the trail head, and other things in USD, like the catamaran from Paine Grande to Pudeto. We also used our credit card at one of the refuges to buy drinks. It’s our understanding that all of the refuges accept credit cards.

Our self-guided itinerary for hiking the W Trail

Day 1 – puerto natales to chileno via las torres, total distance: appx. 13.8 km (8.5 miles) total time: appx. 8 hours overnight: camping chileno.

Let’s get trekking! Hopefully you’ve secured your seat on one of the earliest buses out of Puerto Natales this morning (see above regarding buying your bus tickets in advance).

Buses making the run to Torres del Paine National Park generally depart from Terminal Rodoviario in town. Find your bus and load your pack, then kick back until it’s time to go. It’s around two hours to Laguna Amarga, the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park, so settle in, this is a perfect excuse to grab some extra sleep before starting the hike. 

When you arrive at the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station, have your pre-purchased park entry ticket ready on your mobile phone or bring a printout. Here, you’ll check in and receive information about visiting the park, and its rules and regulations. 

Don’t forget to buy your entrance ticket for Torres del Paine before you head to the park . Head to the CONAF website for more information .

At Laguna Amarga, hikers split into two groups: those starting their journey here at the eastern end of the park, and those heading to the western starting point at Paine Grande, which involves a further bus trip to Pudeto and a catamaran ride across Lake Pehoé (even if you’re hiking west to east, you’ll get off the bus here to check in before reboarding the bus for Pudeto).

If, like us, you’re  hiking the W from east to west , your next step after check in is to jump aboard the Hotel Las Torres public shuttle bus from Laguna Amarga to the Welcome Centre and the eastern starting point of the trek. This costs around US$5 per person and is paid in cash as you board (we paid this in pesos). 

Alternatively, you can start your hike here from Laguna Amarga. The shuttle will just spare you a dusty seven kilometre walk along the gravel road. 

There’s a toilet at Laguna Amarga, and another at the Welcome Centre. This is a good chance to go before setting off into the mountains.

Trekking tip: We booked our first night’s accommodation at Camping Chileno, which is en route to today’s main destination – the towering granite peaks of Las Torres. We’ll be checking in at Chileno on the way and dropping off our packs ahead of the steep and challenging climb to the Las Torres mirador.  If, however, you’ve booked your first night at Hotel Las Torres or Central Refuge and Camping, then we’d suggest dropping off your packs there first, and setting out on today’s hike to Las Torres with a lighter load.

1st Leg: Hotel Las Torres to Chileno ( appx.  5 km / 3.1 miles, around 2 hours)

We’re officially underway on the W trail around 10.30am and from the word go, the views are eye-popping. After a flat kilometre or so, the path starts to climb: get used to it, it’s pretty much uphill from here.

The hike is moderately steep in some spots, until about a kilometre (0.6 miles) or so from Camping Chileno, where the trail flattens out a little before descending into the campground.

Despite feeling like our hearts might explode for much of this first stretch, we cover the distance in around two muscle-busting hours, with frequent stops to take in the views, rehydrate, and give our racing pulses a break.

Drinking water There’s no need to lug extra water with you on the Torres del Paine circuit. You’ll pass pristine mountain streams regularly throughout your journey. Bring a water bottle, fill up at nature’s tap and enjoy some of the purest water you’ll ever drink. Just remember to top up well away from the camps and upstream of the trails. 

We   haul our packs into Chileno around 12.30pm . This campground is operated by Las Torres Patagonia (formerly Fantástico Sur), and is the closest camp you can stay at to the famous Las Torres hike and mirador (the CONAF-managed campground near the base of the Las Torres climb has been closed for some time). 

The riverside setting at Chileno is truly stunning and the sheer peaks of the three granite towers – our ultimate goal today – rise tantalisingly above the forested mountains ahead.

The campground itself is a nice set-up of tiered camping platforms among the trees. There are shared bathrooms with hot showers, and a restaurant and bar with big windows, plus an outdoor terrace for soaking up the epic views.

Our tent is ready for us when we arrive at Chileno, so we check in, drop our bags in our tent, grab a smaller pack with snacks, water bottles and cameras, eat the lunch we prepared last night, and  set out for Las Torres around 1.30pm . Timings here may vary depending on your check-in.

2nd Leg: Chileno to Las Torres (appx. 4.4 km / 2.7 miles, around 2 hours)

This is without doubt today’s toughest leg, so there’s a huge bonus in not having to tote your full pack up the mountain.

From Chileno, you’ll hike for around 3 kilometres (1.9 miles) or so along a meandering path through pretty woodland, across rushing rivers, and through a wonderfully moody stretch of fallen forest that we dub the ‘tree cemetery’. It’s a lovely, moderate walk, and we have no sense of what’s ahead when we reach the sign that tells us ’45 minutes to Mirador Las Torres’.

My notes from this point in our trek simply state: ‘hiking hell starteth here’. A touch dramatic maybe, but as irregular hikers, this was probably the hardest section of the entire W for us. Maybe you’ll breeze through it, just be ready for it.

Shortly after the sign, the climb to Las Torres begins in earnest. It’s a gritty, rocky terrain of steep, gravelly inclines and large boulders. The panoramas as you climb are absolutely breathtaking, but so is the hike itself. There are moments while we’re in the throes of it, looking up and spotting the tiny trekkers far above, that this stretch feels like it will never end.

It does end though, about an hour later, and the scene that awaits as we round a final boulder and face the towering granite pillars of Las Torres makes every single breath-wrenching step worth it.

It’s buzzing at the top: hikers drape the rocks surrounding the glacier lake; a bushy-tailed Patagonian fox weaves its way between the boulders; there’s even a guy getting his hair cut at the water’s edge (one hairdresser’s quirky approach to memorialising his travels while promoting his business).

We spend some time taking pics before settling onto a boulder of our own to simply take in this awe-inspiring scene. Aim to spend around an hour at Las Torres .

3rd Leg: Las Torres to Chileno (appx. 4.4 km /2.7 miles, around 2 hours)

The journey back down from Las Torres is in some respects even more challenging than the climb up. The constant down is tough on knees and the gravel makes the going slippery. We’re beyond grateful for our hiking poles, though we both still manage to pull off some memorable butt slides.

Trekking tip: Hiking poles made all the difference for us when we were trekking in Patagonia. We carried one each, which was ideal as it left us both with a hand free to grab branches and rocks, haul each other up and down, and catch our fall when we slipped. Which was often.

It takes us around two hours to get back to Chileno; we have time to shower, buy a couple of well-earned beers and watch the sunset burn the tips of Las Torres molten gold.

It was cloudy the entire time we were up at the base of the towers, so watching them all beautifully backlit now is a bit of a kicker, but if there’s one thing you’ll learn quickly hiking the W Patagonia, it’s that the weather doesn’t give a rats what you think.

Preparing for Patagonian weather If there’s one constant about the weather in Patagonia, it’s that there’s nothing constant about it. We were particularly lucky on our five days in Torres del Paine, but you should be ready for four seasons in a day. Layer up, have a rain jacket handy, and wear quick-dry clothes. Skip a rain cover for your bag though. While we never experienced the legendary winds that tear through the park from time to time, we heard plenty of stories of pack covers being whipped off suddenly and disappearing into the wilds.  Expect to get rained on, and pack your gear in bag liners or waterproof bags inside your backpack instead.

Cooking stoves are not allowed to be used in the Chileno zone, so we opted for the full board food package here, which includes dinner tonight, breakfast tomorrow and a packed lunch to take with us.

Later in the evening, we join a host of other hikers in the restaurant for a surprisingly tasty and filling three-course meal full of protein and carbs.  

We’re absolutely wrecked by the end of dinner, and we’re tucked up in our sleeping bags by 9.30pm. 

Sunrise at Las Torres When we originally planned our itinerary for hiking the W, we had every intention of doing a second trek to Las Torres for sunrise on Day 2. In late March, this would have entailed getting back on the track up the mountain by 5.30am . As we climbed into our sleeping bags that first night though, we decided to pull the pin: we were just too tired, and we were also a little wary of making the tricky climb in the low dawn light.* It was a tough call at the time, and it didn’t help when we poked our heads out of our tent the next morning to see the stone towers erupting with golden light above the silhouetted foreground. As we watched though, the clouds rolled in and soon enough the peaks were shrouded in mist. There’s no accounting for Patagonian weather, or how your body may feel after a long day of hiking. The best you can do is plan, and be flexible on the day. *PS. For safety reasons, hiking in the dark isn’t actually allowed in Torres del Paine. Trail sections have opening and closing times, check the park brochure for more info.

Day 2 – Chileno to Francés

Total distance: appx. 18 km / 11.2 miles total time: appx. 6 hours 45 minutes overnight: camping francés.

Sunrise is around 8am when we do the W trek in late March, and as we haven’t made the dawn hike to Las Torres, we enjoy a more leisurely start to the morning on Day 2. 

If you do decide to do the dawn hike up to Las Torres for sunrise, factor in around five hours this morning and adjust the following timings for today’s next legs accordingly.

As breakfast is part of our full board package at Camping Chileno, we pack up our gear and head to the dining room at 8.30am for a hearty kickstart to the day.

1st Leg: Chileno to Los Cuernos (appx.  15 km / 9.3 miles, around 4.5 hours)

We’re on the trail by 9.15am , heading back towards Hotel Las Torres. We won’t be going all the way to the hotel though as there’s a shortcut off to the right around half-an-hour after leaving Chileno. The shortcut is signposted and takes you along a mostly downward sloping path surrounded by undulating hills and lake views.

We reach the end of the shortcut and  rejoin the main W route around 11am . At some point after this though, we suddenly find ourselves in what can only be described as the Patagonian Swamps of Mordor and we start to wonder whether we’ve veered off on to a secondary trail by mistake.

We can still glimpse the Nordernskjöld Lake off to left, and we know the official trail travels alongside it. To this day, we’re unsure if we did actually go off piste (though the number of bootprints in the mud suggests not).

Eventually, we seem to be back on track according to the map, just a little muddier for the experience (and even more grateful for our depth guage hiking poles).

The next stretch travels up and down through very pretty lakeside country, with the occasional steep section, before passing down into the valley at Los Cuernos.  We arrive at the Los Cuernos shelter and camping area around 1.45pm .

You could stop at any point along the stretch to Los Cuernos for a lunch break; we stop just past the shelter and find a nice rock with a view. We opted for the full board meal package with Camping Chileno so we’ve been provided with a packed lunch today as part of this. 

We chill for around 45 minutes and then  set off around 2.30pm for Camping Francés , where we’ll be staying tonight.

2nd Leg: Los Cuernos to Francés (appx.   3 km / 1.9 miles, around 1.5 hours)

The trail to the Francés campground is up and down and rubbly, with some steep sections, and a pretty pebbly beach crossing. Today’s walk has been positively sedate compared to yesterday’s heart-starter climbs, but never fear, a leg-burning rise awaits just before the descent into the camp.

We arrive at Camping Francés around 4.00pm . The campground here is run by Las Torres Patagonia   (formerly Fantástico Sur).

The tent platforms are clustered between the trees and there’s a good shower and toilet block a short walk from the campsite. There’s also a small shop with basic amenities. 

By 5.15pm we’re checked in and set up on our platform. We’ve arranged for a tent at Camping Frances but we’re cooking our own food tonight.  

Sunset is close to 8pm in late March, and having made it through our second day on the W trail, we’re zipped up in our sleeping bags soon after.

Day 3: Francés to Paine Grande via Francés Valley

Total distance: appx. 20.3 km / 12.6 miles t otal time: appx. 9 hours overnight: camping paine grande.

Despite our fatigue, neither of us sleeps particularly well on our second night and we’re both groggy when the alarm goes off at 7am.

Our restlessness is partly due to the strange soundtrack that has accompanied us throughout the night: sharp cracking sounds like distant shot gun blasts and deep, thunderous rumbles. It’s not until we set out on the trail through the Francés Valley today though, that the source of the unnerving noises becomes obvious.

On this itinerary, today is the longest day hiking the W, and based on our experience, we recommend getting on the trail by 8am at the latest to maximise your time in the Frances Valley. We departed later when we trekked, so we’ve adjusted the timings below to suit an earlier start.  

1st Leg: Francés to Italiano Ranger Station (appx. 2 km / 1.2 miles, around 30 minutes)

The first leg this morning is a rejuvenating, 30-minute leg-stretcher to Italiano Ranger Station. Aim to pack up and set out from camp by 8am. 

There’s a ranger at the Italiano Ranger Station when we arrive. He points to some racks opposite the office building; this is where we opt to leave our backpacks ahead of the challenging hike into Francés Valley.  

We sort our valuables and lunch into a smaller daypack, lock up the big packs, and get going again. Look to be back on the trail by 8.45am . 

2nd Leg: Italiano Ranger Station to Británico Lookout (appx. 5.4 km / 3.4 miles, around 3 hours)

The first kilometre (0.6 miles) out of Italiano is a flat trail through pleasant forest, after which the track starts to climb steeply through a rocky, rubbly stretch.

The scenery is seriously beautiful, serving up views of the ironically named Paine Grande Hill – 3,050 metres above sea level – and the Francés glacier that clings to it. This is the source of the crackshots and grumbles we’ve been hearing as the hanging ice shifts, melts and avalanches down the mountain.

Soon enough, you’ll reach the Francés mirador, a lookout offering spectacular panoramas over the ‘hill’ and its glacier; this is the perfect spot for a short break and a snack, as the next stretch is tough.

From here, the trail to Británico Lookout is a challenging, rubble-strewn boulder dash with lots of climbing.

A flat, rocky clearance scattered with the parched white trunks of dead trees and overshadowed by the jaw-dropping Cuernos massif, marks the final stretch before a steep, 10-minute climb to the mirador itself.

Summitting the boulders of the Británico Lookout around three hours after setting out , we cast our eyes over what will become our favourite panorama of this epic journey: the vast and spectacular Francés Valley. Find a rock to perch on and settle in for lunch with this glorious scene at your feet.

We’ve come a long way, but there’s still a huge day of hiking the W ahead. To our eternal regret, we were only able to linger here for half an hour as we left camp too late on this morning. That’s why we recommend getting on the trail no later than 8am today – trust us, you’ll want as much time at Britanico as possible and by arriving around 11.45am, you’ll have close to an hour here.

We’ve promised ourselves that next time, we’ll spend an extra day or two in this valley so we can take in this view at our leisure. For us, this remains one of the most magnificent vistas we’ve come across in all our world travels.

Trekking tip: Get on the trail by 8am at latest this morning so you can hang out for at least an hour at Britanico, or better yet, stay an extra day in the Francés Valley. 

3rd Leg: Británico Lookout to Italiano Ranger Station (appx. 5.4 km / 3.4 miles, around 2 hours)

Aim to set off back down the trail to Italiano around 12.45pm . We find this a knee-buckling downward journey and our legs are screaming by the time we reach our packs back at the Italiano Ranger Station just over two hours later. 

Once we’ve retrieved our packs (now four-deep in a giant bag pile), re-sorted them, and stopped for a quick breather, we set out for the Paine Grande refuge and camping area, starting with a bridge crossing out of Italiano.  It’s around 3pm by this stage . 

4th Leg: Italiano Ranger Station to Paine Grande (appx. 7.5 km / 4.6 miles, around 2.5 hours)

The final stretch of the W trail today is a journey of around 7.5 kilometres (4.6 miles) and it’s mostly flat with some sloping ups and downs.

Travelling out of the valley and along the raised walkway as you head towards Sköttsberg Lake, remember to turn around and take in the mountain scene back the other way: it is immense.

After some more steady rises, we make our final descent into Paine Grande Refuge and Camping around 5.30pm . By this stage, we’re seriously sore and tired and very ready for a beer from the lodge bar, which is the first thing we do once we’ve checked in and dropped our packs at our tent.

The campground at Paine Grande, which is managed by Vertice Travel, is large and separated into sections for campers carrying their own gear, and those like us who have booked a tent. A wooden walkway links the campgrounds with the lodge, the campers’ kitchen and bathrooms.

As Paine Grande is the western starting point for hiking the W and a transit point for O circuit trekkers, as well as for day trippers and short stay visitors, this is the largest and busiest lodge and campground in the park. 

There’s a good-sized kitchen building, which is heaving with trekkers when we make our way in there to cook dinner around 7pm. 

The camp shower and toilet facilities here are basic. We recommend getting your ablutions out of the way while everyone else is cooking dinner and before the post-meal rush. Paine Grande also has dorms, a restaurant and bar, and a mini-market. 

We’re tucked up in our tent just as a light rain begins to fall around 8.30pm. 

Day 4 – Paine Grande to Grey 

Total distance: appx. 11 km / 6.8 miles total time: appx. 3 hours 45 minutes overnight: camping grey.

Today is our shortest day so far on the W trail, so we decide to set out a little later as we’re definitely starting to feel the past three days’ hiking, and a strange kind of exhilarated fatigue. 

We’re up at 8am with plans to be on the trail by 9am. However the banshee-like screeches of a fox followed by the thrilling appearance of a large, tawny-coloured puma on the hill behind the camp has us – and everyone else – lingering for a while in hushed awe, until the sleek big cat disappears around a bend into the next valley. Which happens to be the same valley we’re about to trek into. 

After checking in at the ranger station for advice on what to do if we see the puma again, we set off through the narrow, pretty dell at around 10am . We’re both relieved (and maybe a touch disappointed) to find no further sign of our feline friend.

The big cats of Patagonia Don’t let the thought of pumas roaming the forests of Torres del Paine put you off trekking there. The fact is, these magnificent creatures are extremely shy and actively avoid humans. Encountering a puma is incredibly rare. Spotting one near camp as we did is apparently almost unheard of. However, it’s important to be across what to do and how to act if you do come across a puma. You’ll find advice on this in the guide that you receive when you check in for your Torres del Paine trek. (If seeing a puma in the Patagonian wilds is on your bucket list though, check out this one-of-a-kind puma tracking day trip out of Puerto Natales.)

The valley walk is flat at first but soon begins to climb, and continues to serve up steady inclines followed by some steep descents into the Grey refuge and camping area.

The scenery on this leg is still epic, but maybe a touch more serene than the high drama mountainscapes of the last couple of days. Grey Lake is flat and still on the day we hike the trail, and dotted with blueish lumps of ice from the vast Grey Glacier at its head.

About halfway along the trail, a rocky lookout reveals the first glimpses of this immense glacier, a sea of ice six kilometres (3.7 miles) wide and 30 metres (98 feet) high in places.

We arrive at the Grey Camping area around 1.45pm , a journey of 3 hours and 45 minutes, with plenty of photo and snack stops along the way.

Grey Refuge and Camping is also operated by Vertice Travel. The lodge has a lovely bar and lounge area in addition to its dorms, and the campground out front is overlooked by the stunning peaks of the Cordon Olguín. By the time we arrive, the clouds have cleared and the mountains burn golden as the sun drops.

If you’ve got the energy, check in (or leave your pack with the office if check-in hasn’t opened yet), and then head back out to hike past the western tip of the W trail and on to the first leg of the O circuit towards Paso Ranger Station. This will bring you much closer to the glacier, but bear in mind, it’s a five hour, one-way hike to Paso itself.

Trekking tip: Leaving Paine Grande at 10am worked well for us, but if you do want to hike a stretch of the trail from Grey towards Paso and back to Grey today, consider starting out from Paine Grande earlier in the morning so you have more time to do this.

We opt to stop and enjoy our lunch with mountain views, then roll out our mats and nap in the sun until check-in opens. 

After getting our tent sorted, we hike to a rocky outcrop on the lake just 15 minutes from camp. The views from here towards the glacier’s terminus are gorgeous and we spend time here just soaking up the scene.

On our return to camp, we head to the lodge for a drink at the bar before making dinner on one of the picnic benches outside the buzzing campers’ cooking area.

In addition to the bar, there’s a restaurant at Grey, and a small shop selling grocery basics. There’s an equally small toilet and shower block for campers (the showers only have certain hours of operation but the water is hot).  

We’re in bed by 9pm and prepped for a very early departure in the morning.

Day 5 – Grey to Paine Grande  (and return to Puerto Natales)

Total distance: appx. 11 km / 6.8 miles total time: 3 hours 15 minutes.

It’s our last day on the W hike! We’re on the trail early so we can get back to Paine Grande in time for the late morning catamaran across Lake Pehoe to Pudeto, where we’ll pick up the bus back to Puerto Natales. 

It shouldn’t take more than four hours to get back to Paine Grande from the Grey campground, but we’re feeling pretty exhausted by this stage and John has nurtured some nasty blisters, so we’re up and on the trail before sunrise . 

It’s freezing when we set out at dawn but as the day lightens, we’re treated to a stunning peach-tinted sky reflecting off the lake, and we stop often to snap pics.

Despite John’s sore feet, we make good time on the return journey and while we’re climbing for much of the first half, it feels easier than the trek up from Paine Grande yesterday. Maybe it’s because we’re on the home run, even though the thought makes us sad.

Our journey back to Paine Grande takes us 3 hours and 15 minutes , 30 minutes less than yesterday’s hike in the opposite direction. 

We haven’t eaten breakfast and we’re starving by the time we arrive. We were planning to grab something to eat at the restaurant at Paine Grande, but we discover it’s closed between breakfast and lunch. 

We make do with our leftover trail mix instead, which is a bigger deal than you might think: we packed way too much of the bitty hiker’s snack and after five days we have a serious love/hate relationship with it. 

Fortunately, there’s now a mini market at Paine Grande, which is apparently open from 7am. But if you’re setting out really early like us, perhaps have something you can eat on the go for this final morning.

Tickets and times for the Lake Pehoe ferry between Paine Grande and Pudeto The catamaran that crosses Lake Pehoe between Paine Grande and Pudeto operates from September to April. Departure times change from month to month so be s ure to check the boat schedule when you’re planning your W trek itinerary, and adjust your final day hiking start time to ensure you arrive back at Paine Grande at least 15 minutes before the boat departs.   You can now book your ticket for the catamaran online ahead of time at the above website. We’re currently checking whether pre-purchase is a requirement or whether it’s still possible to turn up and buy a ticket onboard. The cost for the 2024-2025 season is 26,000 CLP or US$30 (each way) and the journey takes around 30 minutes.  

We board the late morning catamaran  for our return to the eastern side of the park. The boat trip across Lake Pehoé offers spectacular views of the entire mountainscape we’ve spent the last five days traversing. It’s an epic perspective of the W panorama and a mesmerising finale to our W trek itinerary. 

If the weather is nice, we totally recommend taking a seat outside on the catamaran so you can properly admire the breathtaking scenery. 

Disembarking the ferry at Pudeto, we grab a coffee from the lakeside café (open from October throughout the trekking season), take a seat in the sun, and enjoy our last moments in Torres del Paine while we wait for our bus. 

Travel tip: In addition to checking ferry times for the catamaran between Paine Grande and Pudeto when you’re organising your trek, it’s also worth checking the bus connections to and from Pudeto, so you can work out the best approach for your final day on the trail.  

From Pudeto, the bus makes its way back to the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station to collect hikers finishing their trek at the eastern end of the park. From there,  we settle in for the return two hour bus journey to Puerto Natales . 

Tonight, back in Puerto Natales, after a good hot shower and a lamentation on the ridiculous amount of trail mix we’ve got left over, we head out for a celebratory drink.

Our legs might be seizing, our knees protesting and we’re beyond exhausted, but we’re buzzing with the sheer thrill of having completed this epic trek. We’re already talking about when we might come back and hike the W trail again, or better yet, take on the longer O circuit. 

However we do it, trekking in Torres del Paine is one nature experience we’re keeping firmly on our bucket list. 

Got any questions? Have you trekked in Torres del Paine recently? We’d love to hear from you, drop us a message below.

For more exciting experiences and things to do in this incomparable part of the world, head to our Chile page or our South America section.

55 thoughts on “Hiking The W Trek In Patagonia: A Self-Guided Itinerary [2024-25]”

Thank you so much for this rundown – working on booking for this winter now. Would love your opinion about 2 things: 1. On the day we’re hiking into Grey, I was thinking about trying to add the glacier kayak excursion on that afternoon – do you think that would all be doable in 1 day? Were you aware of folks who did it? 2. On the last day, I was thinking we’d hike out, take the catamaran, bus back to Puerto Natales, and catch the 5:00pm bus to Punta Arenas. Based on your experience, do you think that would be doable?

Hey Mark, Thanks for your message – great to hear you’re planning a W trip!

The kayaking sounds awesome. It certainly sounds possible to hike to Grey and do the kayak tour on the same day, assuming there are tours running later in the day? As an indication, it took us around 3 hours 45 mins to hike the 11km from Paine Grande to Grey at an average pace. You may do it quicker or slower depending on your own pace, but if you aim to set out from Paine Grande early morning, you should reach Grey campground/lodge by late morning/early afternoon, which would potentially give you time to check in to the campsite/lodge and then join a late afternoon kayak tour? I’d personally make sure there was a good amount of time between my estimated arrival and the tour departure just in case, that way you can enjoy the hike to Grey without rushing.

We usually err on the side of caution when it comes to transport as well, as while most of our bus travel in Chile/Argentina was issue-free, we did experience occasional bus delays and lastminute cancellations. Bearing in mind the bus from Pudeto to Puerto Natales takes a couple of hours, we’d be looking to put in a decent buffer between that and the Punta Arenas service, just in case you’re held up at any point along the way. Less stressful!

All the best with your planning and have a wonderful time in Torres del Paine! Let us know if you do end up hiking and kayaking on the same day!

I been to Asia a couple times but never to enjoy much of the nature. Your destinations and experiences have me wanting to explore more of the hiking trails abroad. Thanks for sharing!

Cheers Bryan, happy travels!

Thanks for your info, it helps a lot. I’m planning to do W trek in coming January. If I book the camp, can I also use the facilities in the shelter (like shower and toilet)?

Hi Karen, all of the campsites along the W have dedicated facilities for campers, including showers and toilets. Some have cooking areas for campers as well. Happy planning and have a wonderful trek in January! Cheers, Danielle

Great website! We’re hoping to do this February/March 2025, and are wondering how best to spend our time on either side of this hike. Did you travel to El Calafate and El Chalten while you were in the area? Or do you recommend other areas down there? Any advice greatly appreciated!

Hi Lisa, thanks for your message! Fantastic to hear you’re planning a trip to Patagonia! Besides the W Trek, there are various activities you can do in and around Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, like boat trips on Grey Lake to Grey Glacier or horseback riding.

We most definitely did travel to El Calafate and El Chalten after our trek and absolutely recommend, especially if you’re keen to get out on some further hikes. We bussed from Puerto Natales to El Calafate and the next day did a day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier, which is an absolute must. From El Calafate, we travelled by bus to El Chalten (the panoramas on the bus ride in are wow – try and get the front seats!) and spent a good couple of days exploring this gorgeous area and just hanging out. There are a range of hikes you can do out of El Chalten – the day hikes to Laguna de Los Tres and Cerro Torre are epic.

If you head south from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, you can do day trips to see King penguins, Magellan penguins, whales and dolphins, so that’s another option.

Have a wonderful time and happy trip planning! Cheers, Danielle

Thank you for sharing your Patagonia insights! I found it very thorough and incredibly helpful. I we are planning our trip for October 2024. I have a question. How did you book your meal plan? Thanks! Kim

Hi Kim, thanks for your feedback, we’re glad you’ve found our post helpful! When you go through the booking process for each accommodation (including camping) along the trail, you’ll have the opportunity to add meals as part of those bookings. Links to the accommodation providers are in the post. Good luck with your planning and happy trekking in October! Cheers, Danielle & John

Hi thank you so much for this detailed blog. It appears that one would have to stay at Frances camp if going east to west in order to shave hiking time on day 3. Is there a bus company through which we have to pre-book a bus ticket from Pudeto ferry to Las Amargo? Or is it a shuttle service? Do you have any idea if booking a guided tour via Las Torres means that they carry your heavy rucksacks?? Is the last day at Grey really worth it ? Or would you rather end the trek on day 4? Thank you!

Hi SK, thanks for your message. Until the CONAF Italiano camp reopens, Frances camp is the closest camp to the Frances Valley so yes, it is the best bet timing-wise for getting in and out of the Frances Valley and on to Paine Grande on Day 3 if travelling from east to west. You could also stay at Los Cuernos, but that would add around 1.5 hours to Day 3.

The buses running from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine drop off and pick-up from Laguna Amarga and Pudeto. When you buy your bus ticket to Torres del Paine, you’ll note where you’ll be getting off and on again (it will depend on your itinerary, but for us, travelling from east to west, we got off at Laguna Amarga and boarded at Pudeto on our return. Check out the section in our post on bus tickets to and from the park for more info. There’s a shuttle that runs between the Laguna Amarga ranger station and Hotel Las Torres for a fee.

We would suggest contacting the tour company you’re interested in for advice about whether porter services are available on their guided tours. We left most of our luggage in one of our backpacks at our hotel in Puerto Natales and carried only what we needed for the trek to keep the weight down.

We personally feel that every leg of the W is absolutely worth it – the scenery is superb throughout. Five days gave us just the right amount of time to enjoy the whole trail without pushing too hard. To do the trek in four days, you’d likely need to compromise on either the full hike into Frances Valley or the Grey leg in order to reach camps before dark, and we wouldn’t want to skip either. But that’s us. If four days was all we had to trek, we would possibly leave Grey but we’d have to make sure we did a boat tour out to the glacier instead! 🙂

All the best with your planning! Cheers, Danielle & John

This is seriously one of the best breakdowns I’ve read. Patagonia is one of three “Someday” treks I have on my list to head off on once my son is a little bigger and can carry more of his own gear. We’re building up now with longer and longer trips around Central/Eastern Europe

Love this site!

Thanks for your message Brian, we really appreciate your feedback. So cool that you and your son are already hiking together, and what an awesome bucket list adventure to look forward to with him! Happy trekking and thanks again! Danielle & John

Do you have a map with the accommodations you booked or where you rented out tents/gears? Planning on doing this solo in June!

Hi Erika, thanks for your message! There’s a trail map available at the official Torres del Paine website: https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl/mapa-2023-2024/ – it shows all the accommodations/campsites along the trail. You can also find links in our post to the accommodation providers we booked our campsites and camping gear through.

As you’re considering a June trip, we’d also encourage you to check out the official Torres del Paine website for information about winter hiking regulations – https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl/permisos-especiales/ . Many of the accommodations and trails close over winter and while you can visit the park, we understand it’s mandatory to have a guide for the W Trek and the trek to the base of Las Torres between 1 May and 30 August (though the timeframes can change depending on weather). All the best with your planning! ~ Danielle

Hello Dan, What a great find this was. Thank you so much for writing it. I’m looking to mimic your trek with some modifications. I will very likely have a car rental when I arrive into Punta Arenas. My plan is to drive myself and 2 others into the park and leave the vehicle parked at the welcome center or hotel (unsure if this is allowed). At the end you mention that you ferry to Pudeto- then catch a bus that swings by Laguna Amarga into Puerto Natales. Is there a bus that goes directly back to the welcome center or hotel from Pudeto so we can get back in my rental? It looks like the Laguna Amarga ranger station is about 8.5 km from the welcome center. Or is it best to just shuttle from Puerto Natales for the whole thing and leave the rental somewhere in town?

Hi Bruce, thanks so much for your message and feedback! Very good question re. parking – based on our limited research into this, our understanding is that you can leave your car at Hotel Las Torres while you trek if you’re a guest there, otherwise, cars can be parked at the nearby Welcome Centre. We’ve also seen reference online to a small car parking area at Pudeto, so in theory you could arrange bus tickets from Pudeto to Laguna Amarga, and from there get the hotel shuttle to Hotel Las Torres/the Welcome Centre. I would suggest posting your question on Tripadvisor and hopefully someone has done something similar recently and can provide latest info. It might also be worth contacting Hotel Las Torres and asking their advice; no doubt they get questions like this frequently. All the very best for your trip planning and the trek itself – it’s an unforgettable experience! Cheers, Danielle & John

Thank you so much for the great information. I’m a long term planner and we’re looking to book for our family of four, Christmas 2024. I found this blog really really helpful in hiking cost effectively. Thanks Again!

Hi Melissa, thank you so much for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found our post helpful in your planning. Also very excited for you and your family – what a fantastic Christmas experience! We hope you have a really wonderful time hiking the W, it’s just such an incredible place! All the best and happy hiking! Danielle & John

Thanks for the article, I find it very useful. I have just booked the circuit trail for this April. About that: I looked into using Booking Patagonia for the reservations, and it works really well. Though, there is a downside: they charge an extra $90. You’ll notice this at the very and of the booking process, which I found quite frustrating. For me that was a reason to book directly at Vertice and Las Torres Patagonia, which works fine.

Hi Valentijn, thanks so much for this update, that’s really helpful to know! Thanks also for your feedback on our post, we’re pleased you’ve found it useful. All the best for your upcoming trip in April, have a sensational time and happy hiking! Cheers, Danielle & John

Thanks for the great write up. The details are useful and your descriptions are inspiring. I’m leaving for Chile in a couple days and your post just added to my excitement.

Hey Mike, thanks so much for your feedback, we hope you have a really fantastic trip. Chile is an incredible country, one of our faves!

Cheers, Danielle & John

Thank you for that informativ Blog! I have a question: are there any possibilities to heat up some water in the Refugiés without a stove?

All the best Sophie

Hi Sophie, thanks for your message!

As we had a cooking stove (and booked meals at Chileno where stoves can’t be used), we can’t personally say for sure whether hot water is currently available at all of the stops on the route. That said, we did find a trekker’s report online from late 2023 noting that they were able to access hot water (not boiling) through the coffee/tea dispensers at each of the refugios they stayed at, which they used for their dehydrated meals. Would suggest seeing if there are other trip reports from this season, or posting on a forum for latest updates. Or perhaps hire a stove in Puerto Natales and buy a gas canister just to be on the safe side! We’d love to know what you find out!

Have a magic time trekking the W!

Cheers, Dan & John

Hi guys. Thanks for all the detailed info. Just wondering if you could give an estimate of how much it cost for the W trek. I am being quoted $1180 per person for 4 nights and five days starting 12th February with this included:

•⁠ ⁠camping accommodation with all the equipment •⁠ ⁠all the meals •⁠ ⁠transportation from/to natales-park •⁠ ⁠park entrance •⁠ ⁠catamaran •⁠ ⁠welcome kit

Not sure if this price is really high or if it would work out as that much if I book everything myself separately anyway.

Many thanks

Thanks for your message and feedback – we’re really excited for your trek in Torres del Paine.

We were travelling long-term when we did the W Trek so we went out of our way to keep costs down by booking the campsites directly, carrying some of our own camping gear and bringing most of our own food. Travelling as a pair also helped as the single supplements can add quite a bit. We’d also note that, like everything, prices have hiked post-Covid.

We’ve included some costings in our post but not many as we’re conscious things can change quickly (plus there are so many potential cost combos for accommodation/food, it’s tricky to provide a general estimate). As the bulk of your costs will be in the camping, gear and food components, you might consider checking out the latest price lists for camping and food package options on the Vertice and Las Torres Patagonia websites; that would give you a sense of costs in the context of your quote. Given how quickly accomm/campsites book up for the season and the challenge of trying to coordinate an itinerary across multiple websites, having a third party making the arrangements, while costing more, would take the hassle out of that.

All the best with your planning and we hope you have a sensational time trekking!

Cheers Danielle & John

Your hikes sounded amazing. We are going in Feb and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Sounds like I should do some training! Do you recommend stiff hiking boots to navigate the big rocks or are light hikers enough support?

Thanks for sharing, Karen. Canada

Hi Karen, many thanks for your feedback! To be honest, if you’re a regular walker/hiker, you may find the W Trek a breeze – we met plenty of people who barely cracked a sweat, lol. As irregular hikers, we found some of the steeper sections a little more ‘breath-taking’ but still very do-able. We both wore regular lightweight hiking shoes and they were fine (apart from John developing blisters towards the end), but we also saw people in solid boots. I guess it depends on your preference. We did find having a hiking pole each was useful on some of the more uneven terrain like the rocky climb to Las Torres. We’d love to hear about your trek when you get back – have a fantastic time! Danielle

Going in February, cant wait. Did you know how anyone who did the kayak at Grey and talked about there experience?

Hi Efren, that’s so exciting! We don’t personally know anyone who has kayaked at Grey but we wish we’d had time for it – what an amazing experience! The lake is beautiful and the glacier is epic! If you do kayak, we’d love to hear about it! Have a fantastic time, Cheers, Danielle & John

Awesome Post!

I’m looking at doing this the same direction as you guys did around the same time in 2025.

You mentioned availibilty determined your campgrounds; that being said would you change any of your stays if you could in retrospect? Maybe saw some better campgrounds/lodges along the way that you wish you could have booked had there been availibilty?

Hi Chris, thanks for your message and good question! We were on a long travel stint when we did the W Trek so we opted for camping to keep our costs down, plus the campsites we ended up with proved to be very well located for a five-day itinerary. That said, all of the lodges and refuges looked quite nice so if we were to do it again (and we hope to!), we would consider adding some lodge/refuge stays, following the same itinerary. Location-wise, the Cuernos and French refuges would be good alternatives to camping (though these are beds in dorms, which is less appealing to us). We would definitely consider the Cuernos Cabins (2-3 people per cabin), especially if we were planning a longer stay in the French Valley! We’d also consider staying at the lodge at Grey next time as, of all the campgrounds, this was probably our least favourite (plus we were very ready for a bed by that stage!). Overall, the quality of the campgrounds/refuges throughout the park is very good and we were really happy with our camping experience and itinerary. Best of luck with your planning and we’d love to know how you go! Happy travels!

Wonderful description. We are going in Jan 2024! Looking forward to it.

Hi Kishore Joshi, thank you so much for your feedback, we hope you’ve found it helpful! Wishing you a fantastic W Trek, it really is the most incredible place! Happy travels!

Hi! How much cash would we need, knowing that the bus and entrance are paid for and also full board meal plan at the refugios is booked? So for snacks, water or other costs etc? Do they accept USD or should we have it exchanged? Thanks!

PS, did you also really use ‘poop bags’ for your used toilet paper along the way? 😅

Thanks for your message. We carried both USD and Chilean pesos with us just in case, and we were able to use credit cards at the refuges. We paid for the shuttle from Laguna Amarga and the catamaran from Paine Grande in pesos, though we have read that the catamaran operators may take USD in high season. It’s handy to have pesos for smaller purchases like snacks. We carried a refillable bottle and filled up in streams and at the refugios, so we didn’t purchase water.

We have packed degradable doggy bags for carrying out toilet paper on past hikes! 🙂 On the W Trek though, we carried a loo roll and some trusty Ziploc bags, but we mostly just made strategic use of the campground facilities!

Happy trekking!

Hi John and Dan Thanks for such good info. Is it safe doing it self guided ? Thanks

Hey Iris, thanks so much for your message, we hope you found the post helpful. We found going self-guided very easy – the trails are well trodden and during the peak season, there are plenty of other people hiking too (guides are mandatory in winter). Plus all trekkers have to stay in the designated camping and accomm areas so there are others around and you can stay in dorms if you’re not keen on camping. Conditions can vary dramatically though and it is the great outdoors, so having appropriate gear is essential and hiking with friends is good idea though we hear lots of people do it solo. Everyone we met en route were friendly, encouraging and helpful too. We absolutely loved the hiking the W and hope you get to experience it too! Happy travels! Dan & John

This is really helpful thank you so much. Did you have much hiking experience before you took this on? Would you recommend any training prior to going? What size backpack would you recommend taking?

Thank you so much

Hi Jo, thanks for your kind words, we’re glad you found the post useful! We’re casual hikers and while we’d done a bit of hiking before the W, it was certainly one of the ‘biggest’ hikes we’d done. We definitely tried to up our walking/hiking game before the W in preparation and glad we did as we personally found some of the steeper, sustained-climbing parts of the trek relatively tough – we just took our time and had lots of breaks; necessary anyway to take in the gorgeous views! I carried a 30L daypack and John carried a 50L backpack – between us we carried everything we needed for the five day hike, but I would note that we didn’t have to carry tents, sleeping bags or mats as we hired these. We hope you have the chance to hike the W trek, it remains at the very top of our hiking list! Happy travels!

Thank you all for this awesome breakdown and information! We followed it exactly to book our accommodations and plan to do the trek end of March. Thanks again!

Hi Kristen, thanks so much for your feedback! We’re stoked you found our post helpful and we’re very excited for your upcoming trip. Torres del Paine is sooooo spectacular, wishing you a fantastic trek – let us know how you go! ~ Danielle & John

Thanks Dan for the great details and info.

Hi Kristen. I am doing the trek around of march with a friend. We are travelling from Perth, Australia. Would be great to collaborate in planning.

Thanks Bikash

Hello! This page is fantastic, thank you so much. We are looking at November and can be flexible in terms of dates. Did you book your accommodation first? Are there any other considerations i.e. tickets or entry to the park? Or should we just arrange accommodation and go from there? Do you mind sharing how much you paid approximately for your camping accommodation? No worries if not. Thanks 🙂 Amie

Hi Amie, many thanks! We booked our accommodation first and a couple of months in advance. Site availability ended up driving our approach to the trek – so it’s good that you have flexibility! Would definitely get in as early as possible to book. Tickets for the park itself are arranged at the park entry office, but you will need to have the accomm bookings in place (and evidence of them) when you get to that point. So it’s important to book the accommodation and bus tickets to the park in advance. Bus tix you can buy when you get to Puerto Natales, but try and do that as soon as you arrive rather than on the day you intend to travel to the park. Prices for camping and cabins may have changed since we trekked, but if you head to the accomm links in our post, you’ll be able to find out the current prices as it’s all bookable online. Hope that helps and have a fantastic trek! Cheers, Dan & John

Thank you for the detailed information. We are trekking this exact route this March 2020!

Hi Jackie, thanks for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found it helpful for planning. Hope you have a sensational trek!

Thank you so much for the detailed guide! This is really helpful 🙂

Hi Katherine, thanks for getting in touch! We’re really pleased you found the guide useful – happy hiking!

How did you book the campsite ? I unable to locate the source to book just the campsite

Hey Rajesh, thanks for the message.

The Camping areas are run by three different operators in the park, and you can find links to all three operators in our post.

All three operators’ websites have information about their camp sites, and how to book.

Hope this helps.

John & Dan

Exactly what I’m looking for, thanks! Chileno and Los Torres always been there on my bucket list, now I know where and how to start.

Awesome, thanks Rika, we’re really pleased you’ve found it helpful. It is the most spectacular walk – even if you just did the one leg to Las Torres, you’d have photography opps galore! Happy travels!

Leave a comment Cancel reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Hiking the W Trek East to West in Torres del Paine National Park

If you’re an outdoor enthusiast, you’ve probably dreamed of trekking in Torres del Paine National Park. I know I had. Due to the amount of planning and preparation it took to book everything, it took me a couple of years to make it happen. But let’s make it less painful for you. Here’s everything you need to know for hiking the W Trek east to west in Torres del Paine National Park.

Disclosure:  Some of the links below may be affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

Table of Contents

About Torres del Paine National Park

Located in southern Chile in the Patagonia region, Torres del Paine National Park is best known for its soaring jagged mountain peaks, bright blue glacial fed lakes, and a quantity of glaciers and icebergs. In fact, it was rated as the fifth most beautiful place in the world by National Geographic in 2013 and the 8th Wonder of the World by TripAdvisor in 2017.

Visiting Torres del Paine should be on every outdoor adventurer’s bucket list. It is stunning. Unfortunately though, it is one trip that can be incredibly difficult to plan. The lack of information combined with the difficulty of booking campsites are real deterrents. But, if Torres del Paine is worth it to you – stalk the campsites and make it happen! There’s a whole section below on that to help guide you through it, step by step.

View a map of Torres del Paine National Park.

The Best Time to Visit Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine can be visited year round, but because it is located so far south, the best times to visit are between September and April. This coincides with the southern spring, summer, and early autumn where daylight hours are longer and the summer weather is more agreeable. The average day temperature is 54 degrees Fahrenheit (12 Celsius) with highs around 75 F (23.5 C) and lows of 33 F (0.5 C) at night.

In the winter, the weather can become extreme and the daylight can dwindle to just 8 hours per day. This does mean less crowds, but it also can mean snow, and some of the refugios close during this season.

The Cost of Visiting Torres del Paine National Park

The overall cost of your trip will vary greatly in how you plan to visit and where you stay. However, one cost will remain the same, the entrance fee. Currently for international visitors, this is:

• Kids under 12: Free
• Teens 12 – 17: 12.500 CLP
• Adults: 25.000 CLP
• 3+ Day Ticket: 35.000 CLP

Find the latest on the Torres del Paine National Park website .

Hiking in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine National Park offers world-class hiking. Whether you are looking for some steep climbs, stunning views, or a multi-day trek, you will not be disappointed. The two most popular treks are the W Trek or the O Trek.

The W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park

The most popular of the multi-day treks in Torres del Paine National Park, the W Trek, takes an average of 5 days to hike. It can be hiked in either direction and there are a number of campsites and refugios along the way with varying amounts of amenities. This could mean renting a tent and sleeping bag at each site as well as purchasing meals. While this would increase your cost, it would mean that you only have to carry your own belongings.

The O Trek in Torres del Pain National Park

The other alternative is the O Trek. The O Trek is a similar hike to the W Trek as it covers much of the same terrain, but it also goes around the back side of Torres del Paine National Park. This makes it a bit longer, averaging 9 days of hiking, and it can only be hiked from West to East.

The biggest difference between the W Trek and the O Trek, other than of course the length of time, is that on the O Trek you proceed around the backside of the National Park where amenities are limited. You will need to carry all of your camping gear and food. You’ll also of course encounter a lot less people on that portion.

Find other awesome Patagonian destinations in this 2 Week Patagonia Itinerary .

Why Hike the W Trek East to West

The W Trek can be hiked in either direction, from east to west or west to east, and it will take about 5 days. Remember the O Trek can ONLY be hiked West to East and will take closer to 9 days. So why did I decide to go east to west? Well, mostly because of the days the campsites were available.

However, there are some benefits to it. For one, when hiking the W Trek from east to west, you get the hardest hiking day – going up to Las Torres – done on the first day when your legs are fresh. For another, you are going against traffic meaning you aren’t as likely to get stuck behind anyone on the trails.

In any case, if you decide to hike the W Trek east to west – here are some pointers to help you plan out your trip. If you decide to go West to East, reverse it. I have faith in you. Now on to the good stuff.

Overview of the 5 Days Hiking Torres del Paine

If you’re thinking of hiking the W Trek from east to west, this is what your five days in Torres del Paine will look like. For more information, continue reading for in-depth breakdowns by day.

Day 1 Overview

• Travel from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine by bus early in the morning
• At the entrance, get off and pay the entrance fees + pick up a map
• Board the bus toward Las Torres
• Hike from the bus to Central Campsite
• Drop off your main pack at Central Campsite
• Hike up to Las Torres and back to Central Campsite with your day pack
• Stay overnight at Central Campsite

Day 2 Overview

• Hike from Central Campsite to Frances Campsite with your pack
• Stay overnight at Frances Campsite

Day 3 Overview

• Hike from Frances Campsite to the Italiano Ranger Station
• Drop off your main pack at the Italiano Ranger Station
• Hike up to Britanico Lookout and back to Italiano Ranger Station with your day pack
• Pick up your main pack and continue on to Paine Grande Campsite
• Stay overnight at Paine Grande Campsite

Day 4 Overview

• Hike from Paine Grande Campsite to Grey Campsite with your main pack
• Drop off your main pack at Grey Campsite
• Hike past Grey Campsite up to the Hanging Bridges and back with your day pack
• Stay overnight at Grey Campsite

Day 5 Overview

• Hike from Grey Campsite to Paine Grande with your pack
• Catch the Pudeto Catamaran across Lake Pehoe – Busses will be waiting for you there
• Take the bus back to Puerto Natales

Learn how to book campsites for Torres del Pain National Park.

Getting from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park

As soon as you arrive in Puerto Natales, or even before you arrive, book a bus to Torres del Paine National Park. You’ll want to arrive at the Laguna Amarga Entrance of the park early in the morning, so I recommend taking a bus around 7am. This bus ride is only about 2 hours and offers some great mountain views.

There are a number of bus companies that run this route and whether you book ahead online (I’ve used Bus Bud for this) or you book in person in Puerto Natales, the tickets will be about the same cost. Also, before taking off to Torres del Paine, book your return bus ticket!

Arriving at Torres del Paine National Park

When you arrive at the Laguna Amarga Entrance of Torres del Pain National Park, everyone will get off the bus to pay the National Park fee at the front gate. It does not matter which direction you are headed to or how long you will stay in the park, everyone has a fee to pay. For the 3 day or more pass it is 35.000 CLP due in cash. Credit cards are not accepted.

If you are hiking the W Trek from east to west, you’ll want to take the minibus from the front gate towards Las Torres Hotel, Lodge, and Camping Zone. This costs 4.000, also due in cash.

If you are hiking the W Trek from West to East, you’ll re-board the buses and continue to Pudeto where you will take the catamaran over to Paine Grande.

Check-in Tips for Torres del Paine National Park

Arriving at Torres del Pain National Park is exciting, and has a number of things to remember.

• Take an early bus. Beat the crowds to the entrance and onto the trails.
• Pack plenty of cash. Credit card is not always able to be used within the park.
• You need your passport. Take a sealed plastic baggy to stick it in to protect it from the elements.
• Keep your National Park entrance ticket. You may be asked for it at any time.
• Print off your camping reservations or have them accessible on your phone. You may also be asked for these.
• Pick up a map at Laguna Amarga. Their maps offer insight into the distance between each campsite and major scenic point. These are labeled by hours, not by distance. It’s also available onli n e .

Day 1: Hiking from Central Campsite to Las Torres and Back

Total Distance: 16.7 miles with 307 floors of elevation gain

Total Hiking Time: About 8.5 hours (~0 hours with full pack)

Biggest Attraction: Las Torres

Upon arrival at Central Campsite, check-in and leave your bag behind to make your hike up to Las Torres a little bit lighter. Depending on the time, you may want to set up your tent and all first, or you may want to hit the trail immediately.

When hiking the W Trek from east to west, the first leg of your hike goes uphill for 2 hours to Chileno Campsite. From there it’s another 1.5 hours to Camp Torres and then 45 minutes uphill through a boulder field. The boulder field is the bottleneck as people go at varying paces, and it is a difficult area for passing.

At the top of your uphill climb you will be graced with the beauty of Las Torres. Las Torres are 3 towering peaks – one of the classic views in Torres del Paine National Park. It is a wonderful way to kick off the W Trek. Once you’ve had your fill of the stunning scenery, it will take about 4 hours to get back down to Central Campsite, but it is almost all downhill.

Recommended Day 1 Campsite: Central

If you’re hiking the W Trek from east to west, Central Campsite will be your first night’s stop. It is a really nice campsite. They don’t have a cooking area, and the bathrooms were extremely dirty, but the land is flat, the wind is low, and the scenery is amazing.

If you have pre-purchased meals, you can head across a small stream via a little wooden bridge, to the Central Refugio for dinner. The Refugio is clean and has family style seating for meals with a nice plated dinner and a mixture of plated and buffet breakfast.

If you did not pre-purchase your food, no worries. There is a small cafe onsite for purchasing basic food, like pizza, and of course alcohol. In fact, almost every Refugio offered a small cafe with a limited menu, so do not worry if you don’t pre-purchase meals, you will not starve.

2nd Choice Campsite for Day 1: Chileno

The main disadvantage of Chileno Campsite is you have to hike uphill with your bag for 2 hours, whereas at Central Campsite, you can leave it at the base of the hill. It also helps balance out your hiking distance on day one and day two a bit better.

Day 1 Hiking and Camping Tips

Just a few tips to help you get acquainted with what to expect on day one:

• The bathrooms get really busy and dirty at Central Campsite. Expect quick showers. Make sure you have shower flip flops. Hot water is only on at certain times.
• If you have trekking poles, take them. Particularly for the boulder field – your knees will thank you.

Day 2: Hiking from Central Campsite to Frances Campsite

Total Distance : 13.2 miles with 158 floors of elevation gain

Total Hiking Time: 6 – 7 hours (Carrying full pack all day)

Biggest Attraction: Nordernskjold Lake and surrounding scenery

Today’s hike takes you around Nordernskjold Lake. It does not have too much elevation gain, and it offers amazing views of the turquoise lake. You’ll even pass some lakeside beaches if you need a quick rest. It is the least strenuous of the days, but you will be carrying your pack the whole way.

Recommended Day 2 Campsite: Frances

Frances Campsite is on a hill in a wooded area. As such, all of the tents are on platforms and the bathrooms are a ways of a walk down the hill. But, Frances does have the best showers, hands down. They must have just built them. The hot water hours are also limited, but they were clean and spacious.

For meals, Frances has a very small dining area. Therefore it is harder to pre-order meals here, but they do have a small cafe in their dining area that you can eat in outside of the key dining hours. We went with a 20.000 CLP pizza and 6.000 CLP quesadilla.

2nd Choice Campsite for Day 2: Los Cuernos

The reason Los Cuernos Campsite is second choice is it would make day 3 even longer than the 17.4 miles of hiking it will be. That or you would need to cut out hiking to Britanico Lookout to make it a more reasonable day. Neither of which are great options, so I recommend Frances if it is available.

Day 2 Hiking and Camping Tips

Another day, a few more challenges. Here are tips for your second day of hiking.

• Secure your tent in some way to the platform at Frances. The wind can reach all sides of the tent which can make it more susceptible to flying away.
• Take a flashlight or your phone with you to the bathrooms at night. The path can be a bit tricky with tree roots and tiny wooden bridges throughout the campsite.

Day 3: Hiking from Frances to Paine Grande

Total Distance: 17.4 miles with 187 floors of elevation gain

Total Hiking Time: 8.5 hours (Only 2.5 hours with your full pack)

Biggest Attractions: The mountains at Britanico Lookout and the glacier at Frances Lookout

This hike will take you from Frances Campsite to the Italiano Ranger Station where you can leave your backpack before progressing up to Frances Lookout and then Britanico Lookout. Whether you are hiking the W Trek from east to west or west to east, this part of the trek will be the same as it is an out and back hike. (This is the center of the W.)

From Frances to Italiano is a pretty easy 30 minute hike. Then from Italiano up to Frances Lookout is 1.5 hours, mostly uphill. Frances Lookout offers stunning views, and if its warm enough, you can listen and watch for Frances Glacier calving on the mountain side. From there, it’s another 1.5 hours through Frances Valley to Britanico Lookout. The mountains surrounding Britanico lookout are simply stunning.

Then it is back down from Britanico Lookout to the Italian Ranger station, which took us about 3 hours, and another 2 hours easy hike to get to Paine Grande.

Recommended Day 3 Campsite: Paine Grande

Paine Grande Campsite is extremely windy. Make sure to fasten your tent down well so that it does not fly into the lake, apparently that is not uncommon. We actually stayed in the Refugio here, which was pretty nice. The room had 3 sets of bunk beds with small lockers for each bed. And perhaps more importantly, an inside bathroom!

The dining area is large and all meals are served as a buffet. There are a number of indoor and outdoor areas to hang out in, including a large bar area above the dining space.

2nd Choice Campsite for Day 3: None

There really isn’t a great second choice. Fortunately, Paine Grande is pretty large which makes it less likely to sell out.

Day 3 Hiking and Camping Tips

Congratulations on making it through a long day of hiking! Here are some things you might want to know ahead of time.

• There are multiple places that might seem like Britanico Lookout before you truly reach it. It is marked, so just keep going!
• Find a sheltered place from the wind to pitch your tent at Paine Grande.
• Paine Grande is a great place to take advantage of “happy hour”.

Day 4: Hiking from Paine Grande to Grey Glacier and the Hanging Bridges

Total Distance: 14.7 miles with 243 floors of elevation gain

Total Hiking Time: 7 hours of hiking (4 hours with your full pack)

Biggest Attractions: Grey Glacier and the views from the hanging bridges

From Paine Grande to Grey Lodge is only about 2 hours of uphill hiking and then 2 hours of downhill hiking. If you wanted, you could make it from Paine Grande to Grey Glacier and back again in a day, no problem. OR, you can continue past Grey Glacier onto the O Trek path to the 3 hanging bridges. This was the route we took. It is another 1.5 – 2 hours to get to the first couple of hanging bridges, and they are stunning!

For us, this was the first day we hit “weather”. Surely you’ve heard about the wind and the rain in Torres del Paine, well, this was when it finally hit us.

Hiking from Paine Grande to Grey Glacier was a wind tunnel, like aggressive, struggling to stand upright in the wind. And then there was some mist and a little rain… and to add to the challenge, the downhill portion of the hike getting to Grey Glacier was through a small downhill stream/waterfall. This was also a time that trekking poles would have been invaluable.

Recommended Day 4 Campsite: Grey

Grey Campsite sits in a valley, fairly protected from the wind, and it is very close to the Grey Glacier lookout points. The showers are small and not super clean, and the line formed really early for them due to the shorter hiking day. However, if you wait a little while, the line dies down quickly.

Grey Campsite also offers a small kitchen area to prepare food and a giant lodge style dining area for the pre-purchased meals and café food. It is very beautiful and not too terribly expensive. It was 12.000 CLP for a pizza or burger.

2nd Choice Campsite for Day 4: Return to Paine Grande or the Ferry and back to Puerto Natales

The hiking on day 4 is much more flexible. If you are tight on time, or money, it may be the best option to make it to Grey Glacier and then turn around and hike back to Paine Grande. From there you can spend a 2nd night at Paine Grande or you can take the ferry and bus back to Puerto Natales.

Day 4 Hiking and Camping Tips

This day of hiking is much less defined. Therefore, there are more options and tips than normal!

• If you have the time, definitely hike up to at least the 2nd hanging bridge. Each bridge gets you closer to Grey Glacier and the 2nd one is very long and beautiful.
• There are additional activities you can take part in at Grey Campsite, like kayaking near Grey Glacier for 63.000 CLP.
• There is NOT a ferry or catamaran from Grey. You have to go back to Paine Grande. This seemed to be a point of confusion for many people.
• You can make it from Paine Grande to Grey Glacier, and back, in under 8 hours.

Day 5: Hiking from Grey to Paine Grande and Returning to Puerto Natales

Total Distance: 8.3 miles with 161 floors of elevation gain

Total Hiking Time: 2 hours and 40 minutes (All carrying your full pack)

Biggest Attraction: The catamaran ride across Pehoe Lake

Admittedly, we hiked FAST for this portion. Mostly because we wanted to make sure to make the 11:30am catamaran but also, the wind was once again brutal for part of the hike. That being said, we made it back in somewhat record time and sat on the catamaran pier in the sun while we waited for the 11:30am catamaran to arrive. If you hike “normal pace” it will likely take 3 to 4 hours to make the trek.

The Paine Grande to Pudeto Catamaran

Check the catamaran times at least 1 day before you’re headed back so you can target one appropriately. They are few and far between so you won’t want to miss them. During our time there, they were running 9:30am, 11:30am, and 6:30pm. The catamaran ride is 23.000 CLP, and you purchase the ticket on the boat. Everyone who was at the pier when the catamaran loaded was able to get onto the boat.

The boat ride takes 45 minutes to arrive at Pudeto where the buses will be waiting to take you back to Puerto Natales. On the catamaran you will likely encounter others who just finished hiking the W Trek from east to west and a number of people at the end of their O Trek.

Take the Bus Back to Puerto Natales

Before leaving Puerto Natales, buy a return bus ticket. It does not really matter which bus provider you purchase from, they are all very similar.

Upon return to Pudeto, the process of finding and getting on a bus is pure chaos. There are many people pointing you in the right direction and all of the buses seem to be returning to Puerto Natales, so just make sure you make it on one of them! The bus ride back will be about 2.5 hours total.

Reflections on Hiking the W Trek East to West

Total Hiking Distance: 70.3 miles with 1056 floors of elevation gain

OMG, does that cover it? But seriously, this hike takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. It also forces you to push yourself, perhaps even out of your comfort zone. 100% worth it. And I highly recommend hiking the W Trek from east to west to avoid too many crowds on the trails ahead of you.

Things I Would Have Done Differently

No matter how much planning you do and how smooth the hiking is, there will always be things you would have done differently. Here are the things I would have revised and things you might want to know in advance:

• I did not take trekking poles. This was a mistake. There are multiple steep uphill and downhill areas where they would be useful. Learn from my mistake. Take trekking poles.
• I booked many meals in advance so that we did not have to carry as much food. Had I known there were cafes at most of the refugios, I would not have booked so many meals in advance. They are expensive and sometimes a little underwhelming.
• I hiked the W Trek the first week of December. Due to this, I packed a number of warm clothes. I did not need all of them. It was way warmer than expected.

Additional Details to Help Prepare You for the W Trek

Visiting Torres del Paine and doing the W Trek require a lot of planning and preparation. Here are a few more details to get you ready to go!

• In Puerto Natales, the 3pm Erratic Rock talk about the W Trek was useful and worth the hour – two hours it took. However, take it with a grain of salt. They made the hike sound like a horror story!
• Stop at Frutos Secos in Puerto Natales for bulk dried fruit and nuts. It’s a real lifesaver!
• Each Refugio has small cafes and bars featuring happy hours. To give you an idea of cost: Beer tends to be 4.000 CLP, Wine 6.000 CLP for a glass, and 2.000 – 3.000 CLP for a coffee.

Travel Tip: Always travel with travel insurance, especially on epic adventures like the W Trek! I recommend and travel with World Nomad’s. Check them out.

Alternatives to Planning and Hiking the W Trek

Maybe hiking the W Trek just isn’t in the cards for you. Whether you can’t get the campsites necessary, you don’t want to hike that far, or maybe you want to hike further. Have no fear, there are lots of alternatives!

1. Book a Tour for the W Trek

If planning is not your strong suit, but you still want to hike the W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park, book a tour! They’ll take care of the planning and details, and you’ll get to enjoy the hike stress free. Check out this budget W Trek tour or the many options that Fantastico Sur and Vertice offer.

2. Hike Further with the O Trek in Torres del Paine

Of course the first alternative to call out is the O Trek. It covers much of the same terrain as the W Trek, but goes around the back side of Torres del Paine National Park as well. It takes about 9 days on average and can only be hiked from West to East.

If you’re interested in the O Trek, I highly encourage you to read more about it. The back side of the park is less traveled, for better and worse. You will find less people but there are also less amenities available. You must carry your own camping gear and food for one. If that sounds awesome to you – do it!

3. Day Trips into Torres del Paine National Park

Maybe you didn’t book reservations in advance or you’re not a long distance hiker or camper. Whatever the reason is, there are other ways to explore Torres del Paine National Park.

Day hikes offer you the opportunity to explore Torres del Paine and see some of the highlights while taking out the stress of a long distance hiking and camping trip. You can either stay in the park – you are most likely to find space at the campsites near the beginning and end of the W Trek, or if you can’t find space there, you can make the commute from Puerto Natales daily. This sounds terrible to me, but we did encounter a few people doing this.

Of course, the other option to minimize the logistics, is to book day trip tours into the park. This will make your trip run smoothly without the extra planning on your part. Here are some great options.

Looking for Other Epic Hiking Adventures?

I’ve gotten really into hiking around the world: Mount Everest Base Camp in Nepal, the Inca Trail in Peru, the Lost City in Colombia… My number one recommendation for those who enjoy the W Trek is without a doubt the Mount Everest Base Camp Trek.

Mount Everest Base Camp Trek

The Mount Everest Base Camp Trek in Nepal is generally a 12 day hike and features more breathtaking views, like Patagonia. I’d go so far as to say it is a “must” bucket list item for any hiker. Here’s some posts to get you started:

• Planning for the Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
• Packing List for the Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
• Hiking to Mount Everest Base Camp

Further Hiking Inspiration

If the Mount Everest Base Camp Trek is not your speed, check out some other unique hiking destinations around the world for day trips or longer treks:

• Mount Hua and the Infamous Plank Walk in China
• The 3 Day Hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake in Myanmar
• Hiking Up Mount Sinai in Egypt

Get to Know More of Patagonia

Besides hiking the W Trek, you will want to explore more amazing parts of Patagonia. Here are some other must-visit places:

• Epic 2 Week Patagonia Itinerary: Travel Guide to an Outdoor Paradise
• The Complete Guide to El Chalten, Argentina
• 9 Best Things to Do in El Chalten, Argentina: A Hiker’s Paradise
• 18 Best Things to Do in El Calafate, Argentina
• Where to Stay in El Calafate: Hotels for All Budgets
• Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Penguins of Isla Magdalena from Punta Arenas
• Best Time of Year to Visit Patagonia: Season by Season Breakdown
• And of course…. How to Book Campsites in Torres del Paine National Park

Plan your trip to Patagonia with this detailed 2 week itinerary!

Like this post? Pin it.

The founder of The Cure for Curiosity, Julia is a North Carolina based, travel addict who has followed her curiosity to 95+ countries. Whether it’s crawling through the Pyramids of Egypt, climbing to Mount Everest Base Camp in Nepal, or diving the Blue Hole in Belize, she's always on the go, and she wants to help you travel more and travel better by sharing what she's learned along the way, from travel tips  and packing lists to destination specific details.

Similar Posts

6 Critical Things To Know Before Going to the Galapagos Islands

Day Trip to the Great Wall of China: The Essential Travel Guide

7 Best Ways to See the Temples of Bagan, Myanmar

15 Best Things to Do in Iceland: Essential Icelandic Experiences

30 Top Things to Do in Cairns Beyond Just the Great Barrier Reef

How to Rent a Quad in Santorini Greece to Explore the Whole Island

15 comments.

Your photos are amazing! Definitely makes me want to travel here once restrictions lighten up!!!

Torres del Paine is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. You will not regret going!

What a stunning hike! The views look breath-taking! I love the blue skies and crystal blue waters! Those hanging bridges look incredible too! I’d love to experience the hike in person! Thanks for the great guide!

You’re welcome! I hope you get to experience it one day – it is well worth the journey!

Wow, this looks seriously incredible. A few days of incredible views! And these are great tips.

Thanks – All of Patagonia is really incredible but Torres del Paine definitely takes the cake!

This looks incredible! Both the W and O treks look like hiking heaven with those stunning vistas and bright blue glacial lakes. I was planning to try this right now (January 2021) before covid-19 madness started…I still hope I can go one day!

I’m so sorry you had to postpone! I’d definitely give it a shot after Covid winds down – it really is as beautiful as it looks!

Squeeee we’ll get there at some point! 😀

Torres del Paine has always been a place I want to go. Both to hike and to sea kayak. I’m surprised that you got so much clear weather by your photos. great resource for future planning.

I have to say, we carried so much warm weather and rain gear that we barely needed – we really hit the jackpot on weather! I hope you have the same luck when you make it to Torres del Paine.

I would love to do this hike one day. Whilst I have been to Chile, I didn’t go to the South of Patagonia because I told myself that I will return and combine it with a trip to Antarctica. The scenery on this hike is so amazing and the places you passed by are so serene. Takes me back to my memories from Chiloe Island.

Patagonia would be a great trip to add on to Antarctica! It was almost a tease to be so close and unable to go, but Patagonia is definitely worth the trek to get there. The scenery all over is so untouched and it’s not crowded which does make it super serene. I hope you make it there soon!

Hello, Thank you for you blog. Im just wondering how long is the hike from camp central? Ive read that it closes at 3pm? What time did you leave puerto natales and start hiking? Thank you

Hi April – I recommend leaving Puerto Natales early in the morning. Try to catch a 7 or 7:30am bus if possible. You’ll have 2 hours on the bus to nap if needed but you’ll then get to the front gates before many other buses arrive and have all day to hike! From the front gate, you’ll take a shuttle bus towards Camp Central. You can leave your bag at Camp Central to hike to Las Torres – although you won’t be able to formally check in that early. The hike to Las Torres from Camp Central will take between 7 – 9 hours depending on fitness levels and how much time you spend admiring the views! Upon return to Camp Central, you can do the official check in.

There is a stretch of the path after Chileno Camp leading to the Torres that closes after 2pm. Sometimes there is a park ranger making sure people don’t continue, sometimes there isn’t and people can walk past it. My understanding is that this is to help ensure hiking safety. Similarly, people should not leave the lake at the base of Las Torres after 4:30pm to avoid hiking in the dark. Sometimes park rangers will be emptying out this area at that time too. Start early and you won’t have to worry about it!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Ultimate Guide to Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

Situated in the southern realms of South America , Patagonia is one of the world’s last untouched wildernesses. Chilean Patagonia is a land of towering peaks, crystal-clear rivers, blue-hazed glaciers and treeless steppe, it offers vistas like nowhere else on Earth.

Often at the top of hiker’s bucket list, the region’s most celebrated trekking route, the W Trek, takes a ‘W-shaped’ path through Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia. There’s perhaps no better way to explore the region’s dramatic landscapes than on foot, so we’ve created a comprehensive guide with everything you need to know about hiking Patagonia’s famed W Trek.

Travel Guide to Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

Hiking the w trek basics.

While scenic, hiking the W Trek is no gentle stroll in the park. Demanding in places, it requires a good level of basic fitness to cover its 50-mile length successfully. This is not least because altitude is a significant factor on the route, topping out at more than 3,500 feet above sea level. After all, the W Trek lies deep within the southern reaches of the mighty Andes mountain range. Located within Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park , the W trek can usually be hiked in four or five days.

There are a number of options available for those looking to hike the W trek. Some choose to pre-plan the lodging, purchase a pass and do it on their own. While this is certainly an option, the lodges fill up months in advance. Another option for those that don’t want to hike the W trek alone or are booking closer to your hike date and the lodges are full, is to book a guided hike.

Guided hikes can be private or you can book a small group hike to go with a guide and some other people.

Accommodation on the W Trek

Most of this multi-day hike will require overnight camping in tents or at a designated lodge, with hostels and hotels accessible at the start and end of the trek. Camping is only permitted with designated refuges, or refugios at Torres del Paine National Park. Keep in mind that these often get booked up a year in advance so make sure to plan ahead to get the best spots at your favorite refugio.

Lodging at the refugios are either tent camping or a shared room inside the lodge. Tents provided at the refuge are meant for the colder weather, rain and wind so they are warmer than tents you may be used to. Still, if you require the comfort of your own bed inside a warm, cozy lodge then make sure to book even further out because those rooms book up the fastest.

The upside of this arrangement is that you’ll have access to shared bathroom facilities, which generally include hot showers ideal for soothing sore muscles after a day’s walk. Refuges also have heating and electric lighting, and a communal dining room for eating meals sheltered from the elements. Most contain a small shop selling basic items.

Many of the refugios even have wifi so you can catch up on communication with loved ones. Keep in mind that the cost is much higher because it is satellite internet. You will not have cell service while hiking the W trek so make sure your loved ones are aware.

HOT TIP : If you find that individual reservations are booked up in all of the refugios, there may still be availability through a guided tour . You can join a guided hiking tour that is organized by the companies that own the shelters and this comes with a guide for your hike as well as lodging at the shelters along the way. It will be slightly more expensive than hiking and booking everything solo and you will be restricted to one company of shelters versus being able to pick and choose but the upside is your dates will be more likely to be available when planning closer to your travel date.

When to Tackle the W Trek

Hiking the W Trek is open right throughout the year, but if you’re planning on heading along it independent of guides and tour groups you’re limited to the period between October and April. This coincides with the southern hemisphere’s summer months and is also great to combine with a visit to the beautiful Atacama desert .

Independent hiking is complicated by the fact that places at refugios need to be reserved ahead of time, and can be fully booked months in advance. This is particularly true for the high season, which lasts from December to February. The route is also at its busiest during these months, which some trekkers find takes away from the overall experience of solitude and isolation Patagonia is renowned for.

Getting Started : Where to Fly Into and How to Get There

The standard gateway to the W Trek is the town of Puerto Natales , Chile. It lies more than 1800 miles south of the Chilean capital, Santiago. Limited flights connect the airport at Puerto Natales with Santiago, and it’s often easier to fly to either Punta Arenas further south in Chile, or even to El Calafate, just across the border in Argentina.

From either of these latter airports, you’ll then have to head to Puerto Natales by road. Long distance buses cover the distance from Punta Arenas in around three hours, or around 7 hours from El Calafate including border formalities. There is also an opportunity to rent a car and drive yourself .

If coming from Argentinian Patagonia, you should arrange your visa for Chile ahead of time. However, most European, North American and Australian passport holders require nothing more than six months validity on their passport for tourist visits of less than 60 or 90 days (dependent on nationality).

Puerto Natales – The Gateway to Torres del Paine National Park

Puerto Natales has a good cluster of hostels and hotels that are well used to welcoming those starting or finishing hiking the W Trek. Perhaps even more helpfully, this once small fishing village has a number of stores where hikers can rent any equipment they may need. Most stay open until 8 or 9 pm, allowing you to organize any kit requirements even if you arrive later in the day.

It’s also possible to securely store gear you won’t need during the trek. Ideally, your backpack won’t weigh more than around 30 lbs.

Storage can be arranged with your guiding service if you hire a guide, with your hostel/hotel depending on where you are staying or you can rent storage at the bus station. Ask your hotel or hostel if it is possible to store some of your items while you do the W trek. If they don’t have storage available, you can store your items at the bus station. Be aware of the opening hours if you choose this option as you will only be able to drop off or pick up your items during specific hours.

Getting to the W Trek from Puerto Natales, Chile

It’s possible to walk the W Trek in either west to east or east to west directions. That said, the vast majority of trekkers start the trail at the end closest to the entry gates into Torres del Paine National Park, which means they tackle the route from west to east. In turn, starting the trek in this direction means you’re not thrown into the deep end on day one.

Several trustworthy companies run buses that drop off and pick-up hikers from the park entrances. The trip takes between two and four hours depending on which entrance is used. They all have departures in the morning from Puerto Natales, usually around 7 am. If you’re struggling to get a seat, less popular services also operate in the early afternoon, leaving Puerto Natales around 2.30 pm.

You should buy your ticket ahead of time at the company offices inside Terminal Rodoviario , where the buses depart from. You’ll find the terminus on Avenida Espana. Round trip tickets (around $20) permit a ride on any of that company’s returning buses.

Buses generally have stops at Laguna Amarga, Pudeto, and Administrativa. The stop at Laguna Amarga is primarily used by those heading along the W Trek from east to west as it connects with the minibus to Las Torres base camp.

If you’re following the majority of trekkers in starting the W Trek at its western end, you’re better off buying a ticket to either Pudeto or Administrativa. From Pudeto, a catamaran crosses Lake Pehoé in around half an hour. Its destination is Paine Grande. As it lies midway along the W Trek route, arriving via Pudeto means repeating your day one walk on day two.

A way of avoiding this is to head instead to Administrativa and then catch the three-hour ferry that travels the length of Lago (Lake) Grey towards the stunning Grey Glacier where there is a campsite.

Fees for entering the park are the equivalent of roughly $30, and can be paid in Chilean pesos, US dollars or euros. If you pay in dollars or euros try and have the exact amount and don’t rely on there being change available. There are numerous currency exchanges in Puerto Natales. Tickets last as long as you stay within the park, or for five consecutive days of entry.

W Trek Itinerary

For those crossing Lake Grey, day one of hiking the W Trek will be mostly taken up by arrival at Grey Campsite, situated between the lake and montane forest. However, there’s still a chance to give your hiking boots a little action, with a trail leading to a viewpoint of Grey Glacier. Approximately one mile in either direction, it has an ascent and descent of around 1,200 feet in total.

If you get lucky with the weather you will have incredible views of the glacier and the glacial lake with icebergs swimming in it. The day we went was cloudy, windy and rainy making it very difficult to complete the hike. While you can’t predict the weather, be aware that the glacier creates a micro climate so just because it is sunny in other parts of the park does not mean that it will be the same nice weather near the glacier. Pack a hat and a warm jacket as it can get very cold, windy and wet.

Day two is usually the first full day of hiking the W Trek, with the path following the eastern shore of Grey Lake for the first third of the day’s route before moving inland.

The path is relatively gentle, and the scenery simply extraordinary from early on. The campsite of choice is called Refugio Italiano, which sits at the southern end of French Valley. In all, hikers usually take around eight hours to reach this point, covering around 13 miles and a further 1,000 feet in altitude.

Day three is normally dedicated to hiking French Valley which is the favorite part of hiking the W trek for many.

Following streams and rivers much of the way north, the valley offers spectacular views of glaciers towards the lookout at Britanicos Camp, although it’s uphill all the way. After taking in the majestic scene, you then complete the central part of the ‘W’ by returning to your previous night’s camp, having covered around ten miles and another 1,000 feet in altitude.

The day’s trek usually lasts around seven hours. Just like with the previous treks, the glaciers here can create microclimates which means that the weather could be unpredictable. Parts of this trek can be especially windy so hold on to your hats!

Day four of the W Trek sees hikers take on the second ‘V’ of the W-shaped route, along the Sendero Paso Los Cuernos trail. Much of the day’s path follows the shores of Lago Nordenskjöld, which are typified by alpine grasslands crisscrossed by small streams. You’ll more than likely end the day at Chileno Camp, after seven hours and 12 miles of walking.

Day five is normally the last day of hiking the W Trek, although it’s possible to cover shorter distances each day thanks to a chain of intermediate campsites along the way.

For most though, day five means the journey to the base of Los Torres mountains, which rise to a height of 9,500 feet. Heading towards their granite towers you’ll follow the sound of the River Asencio. The trek ends with a scramble over loose moraine, so be sure to save some energy.

In all, you’ll cover around nine miles in six hours, allowing plenty of time to meet the bus back to Puerto Natales.

What to Pack when Hiking the W Trek

Camping equipment can be rented at refugios, but this will add to your costs. If you’re completing the W Trek as part of a tour , tents and meals will be prepared for you. Even so, you’ll still need some specialty equipment to finish hiking the W Trek. In addition to cold weather gear, you should take waterproof clothing, as well as a battery-operated head torch for nights in camp and early morning starts.

Weather can really vary in the summer so you will need both warm clothing on the cold days and nights and light clothing for hotter days.

Below is a brief checklist of the must have things to pack along with you so you are prepared for the elements when hiking the W trek.

While there are many tours and ways to visit Torres del Paine National park , The W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park is an ultimate bucket list experience for anyone visiting Patagonia in Chile. Taking in incredible mountain, lake and glacier views there’s really nothing else like it. Follow the recommendations in our guide to hiking the W Trek in Patagonia, and you’ll be well on your way to being able to tick off this bucket list.

Looking for more epic bucket list destinations in South America? Check out our content for Ecuador for some incredible places to explore.

Bucket List Places Contributors

Roatán travel guide: best things to do, where to stay, eat, drink, galapagos luxury cruise review: aboard quasar evolution 8 days/7 nights, you may also like, kenya safari travel guide: the best parks to..., san juan islands travel guide and ultimate 10-day..., a guide to thailand’s remarkable temples, 10 day alaska road trip itinerary: ultimate alaska..., atacama desert travel guide: things to do, where..., most beautiful places in ethiopia: ultimate travel guide, 10 most beautiful places in laos to visit, diving in galapagos: one of the best places..., galapagos luxury cruise review: aboard quasar evolution 8..., roatán travel guide: best things to do, where....

This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Read More

• Privacy Policy
• Puerto Rico
• Travel Guides

Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia Self-Guided: The Complete Details

When you think of Patagonia, it’s hard not to imagine the picture of its most famous pristine peaks. Many avid hikers and outdoor enthusiasts dream of one day visiting Chile and Argentina to explore the Patagonia region. One of the most famous hikes in Patagonia is the W Trek.

This is the smaller version of the O-trek, but even though it’s shorter, it still offers the adventure of a lifetime. These hikes are located in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.

My dream finally came true in December 2024 when I visited Patagonia for the first time. There were beautiful landscapes everywhere, and I couldn’t stop staring at them.

In this guide, I’ll go over everything you need to know (and there’s a lot) about hiking the W Trek in Patagonia self-guided.

Table of Contents

What is the W Trek in Patagonia and Why You Should Hike it

What makes this hike unique is how well the trails are maintained, the excellent refugios, the people, and, of course, the views.

When traveling throughout Patagonia, it’s funny and cool to notice the same people repeatedly. Most people stick to a very similar itinerary.

There are options for individuals who want to camp and have gear, don’t have gear, or want to go all out and sleep in beds.

Where is the W Trek in Patagonia?

The W Trek is a four- to five-day hike in Torres del Paine National Park. Patagonia is located in Chile and Argentina , offering something different.

Most people who plan to visit Torres del Paine National Park stay in Puerto Natales . This town is easily accessible by bus if you’re coming from Calafate, where the famous Minitrekking on Perito Moreno Glacier is done.

We stopped by here shortly on our way south, where we decided to see Penguins in Punta Arenas before returning for the trek!

How to Get to Torres del Paines National Park

Getting to Torres del Paines National Park is relatively easy. We were one group of the many individuals who got to this park to do the W Trek alone, self-guided.

What does this mean? It means there’s a lot of bus options. I liked using Busbud to find bus times while traveling in Chile and Argentina.

This website didn’t have all the buses possible for every town, but it gave me a good idea of the times.

Bus From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park

Depending on your path, either East to West or West to East, will determine which bus ticket you need to buy.

No matter what, you’ll stop and get off the bus at Laguna Amarga . This is the Entrance to the park and you’ll have to show your entrance ticket. More on that later.

After finding the bus ticket on Busbud, I always visit the bus company’s website. In this case, it’s Bus Sur .

If you’re starting from West to East like us, you’ll first need a bus ticket from Puerto Natales to Puedeto . When we got to the entrance, we showed our tickets, grabbed our bags, and switched buses.

Our bus driver took a break before taking us another 25 minutes up the road to the Pudeto dock. Keep asking the drivers as everyone seemed confused about what was happening.

If you’re going from East to West, the first ticket you’ll need is one to Laguna Amarga . To find these tickets, go to Bus Sur’s website and type in the destination of Torres del Paine.

In the description will be either Laguna Amarga or Pudeto. You’ll need one of each, but you will determine which you need first and last, depending on where you start.

A side note : YOU MUST PRINT OR SCREENSHOT YOUR TICKETS

Wi-fi is scarce or non-existent inside the park.

Bus Schedule

This might be confusing at first but it’ll all become clear soon. I suggest starting a notes page on your phone with your itinerary and all the needed documents in there.

Below is the bus schedule for Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia.

Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga & Pudeto

Current Prices (one-way): ~12,000 Chilean Pesos

Laguna Amarga to Puerto Natales

Pudeto to puerto natales.

I get it if you don’t want to take a bus and would rather drive yourself! I suggest renting a car outside of Puerto Natales as the prices will be more expensive there.

I’m unsure about driving inside the park and to which miradors are possible, but there’s a parking lot behind the Welcome Center. This is next to Refugio Torre Norte.

Things to Know When Planning the W Trek in Patagonia

The W Trek in Patagonia is a long hike and Torres del Paine doesn’t make the information easy to find.

Below will be a plethora of extra details you need to complete the self-guided hike of the W Trek!

Overview: My Itinerary (West to East)

• Take the bus from Puerto Natales to the Park Entrance (Laguna Amarga)
• Switch buses to go to Puedeto
• Take the ferry to Paine Grande ($25,000)
• Hike to Grey (11km) and hike back to Paine Grande (11km)
• Hike from Paine Grande to Mirador Britanico (13km)
• From Mirador Britanico, hike to Cuernos (10km)
• Hike from Cuernos to Chileno
• Wake up early hike from Chileno to Mirador Torres del Paine
• After spending time at the mirador, hike down to Torres Central and the Welcome Center
• Purchase a ticket back to the park entrance ($5,000)
• Take the bus back to Puerto Natales

Things to Bring

Patagonia is known for its huge mood swings of weather, and I wouldn’t change that for the world. It’s what makes this area unique. But it’s a good idea to come prepared.

During the peak season, between December and February, there will be warm, cold, and rainy weather. Here are some things I suggest bringing.

• Hiking Boots
• Grayl Water Filter
• Insect Rep ellent
• Patagonia Down Sweater

Do I have to Purchase a Camping Spot in Torres Del Paine?

Unfortunately, you can’t simply show up in Torres del Paine and expect to camp for free if you have your own gear. I’ve heard many stories of other travelers not doing their research and showing up with no purchased camping spot.

A few companies own these camping spots on the W Trek in Patagonia.

• For tents/camping spots/beds at Paine Grande, you must book a spot through Vertice Travel .
• If you’re looking to stay the night at Cuernos, Torres Central/Norte, or Chileno, you must book through Las Torres .

How Far in Advance to Book?

Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park is one of Chile’s most popular activities. This might seem obvious to some but what isn’t so obvious is how early you must book your reservation.

From experience, my girlfriend and I tried booking in early October for late November. There were spots, but many were limited, and not everything was available in three straight days.

We ended up booking our reservations for the park for the middle of December. I’d suggest booking your reservations for Torres del Paine at least two months in advance, if not further.

You don’t need to purchase the ferry ticket in advance as this can only be bought in person with cash.

Entrance Fee

Unlike when doing hikes like Laguna de los Tres in El Chalten , there is an entrance fee for Torres del Paine National Park.

You can purchase the entrance tickets here . They are currently $12,000 for a 3-day or more pass.

You must download the QR code before getting on the bus, as there will be no signal once you get to the park.

How Many Days Does it Take to Hike the W Trek in Patagonia?

The days it takes to hike the W Trek in Patagonia will depend on your fitness level and if you want to take your time.

We did this trek in 3 nights and 4 days. This is the shortest time I’d ever suggest, even if you’re a fantastic hiker.

My suggestion would be to do 4 nights and 5 days. This will give you ample time to relax at the beautiful refugios and take it all in without feeling rushed.

Camping vs. Refugios

The amazing thing about this trek is that you have multiple options for your sleeping arrangements, depending on your budget.

We rented a tent and slept in the Refugio. On night one, we rented a tent with a mat, and it was honestly more comfortable than I thought it’d be!

For night two, we slept in a dorm room at the Refugio. This wasn’t too bad, but the price was almost triple that of renting a tent the previous night.

We were exhausted and wanted a good night’s sleep. We got that.

For the third night, we slept in another tent but it was large and elevated. I loved these! These were at Chileno Refuge next to Mirador Torres.

The main pros & cons for renting a tent or sleeping in the Refugio are money and if you can’t sleep well in a tent.

I’ll go over the prices of everything next.

How Much Does the W Trek Cost?

Hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine is expensive. Especially when compared to other places in Patagonia like Bariloche and El Chalten .

But there’s ways to make this experience cheaper like bringing our own food and camping gear.

Overview (per person) : Our Costs

• This price includes mats & sleeping pads for both nights we camped.
• This price is mainly from buying dinner on nights 2 & 3. We packed our food for every breakfast and lunch.
• Tickets (Bus + Ferry + Entrance) : 61,000 Chilean Pesos or $62 USD
• Total Cost Per Person : $537 USD

Food Costs :

• Breakfast = $25
• Lunch/Box Lunch = $25
• Dinner = $40
• Full Board = $80
• Breakfast = $28
• Box Lunch = $30
• Lunch = $50
• Dinner = $50
• Full Board (Breakfast/Box Lunch/Dinner) = $100
• Half Board (Breakfast & Dinner) = $70
• Same price as Cuernos because they are the same company.

Campsite/Refugio

• Campsite (with own equipment) = $13
• Simple Bed = $65
• Bed w/ Bedding = $100
• Premium Campsite w/ Everything = $190 single/$220 double
• Single Bed = $144
• Premium Tent = $200 single/$288 double

Which Direction is the Best for the W Trek?

This is one of the most asked questions about the W Trek in Patagonia. For me, it was quite simple.

I wanted to end this amazing adventure at the best view in the park, Mirador Torres.

Going from East to West might make more sense if you want to explore Lago Grey and do activities such as kayaking and ice trekking.

I personally loved going from West to East, and I’ll tell everyone to do this same route every time.

W Trek Patagonia Map

Credit goes to the Torres del Paine Website . There’s a lot of maps out there if you want something better.

How to Make Campsite/Refugio Bookings in Torres del Paine

I mentioned this earlier, but there are two separate websites you must book your accommodation through before arriving.

If you plan on taking the same route we did and going from West to East, you’ll stay at Paine Grande, Cuernos, and finally, Chileno.

Below are the websites to book each night’s stay.

• Paine Gr a nde

W Trek vs O-Trek in Patagonia

You will hear many people humbly bragging about completing the O-trek, and as they should. It’s definitely difficult, even compared to the W Trek!

The O-trek is much longer and less commercialized in the upper sections. You create a strong bond with everyone who completes it with you.

We did the W Trek because we were short on time and didn’t have our own gear. This meant the trip would be more expensive than we could budget.

Is the W Trek Difficult?

Some might not agree, but the W Trek is difficult. You should only attempt it if you’re in decent hiking shape.

If you’re flying into Santiago first before completing this, there’s a hike called Cerro Manquehue . It’s one of the best views in all of Santiago!

W Trek in Patagonia Hiking Details

• Distance:  This hike is a 45.5-mile point-to-point.
• Duration: On average, it will take people 4 days to go up and back down. This depends on your fitness level and which route you take.
• Difficulty:  I’d rank this hike as hard because of the amount of time it takes and the elevation gain.
• Incline : The elevation for this hike is around 9,917 feet or 3022 meters.
• Hiking Guide:  A guide is not needed for this hike and is easily accessible by the public

Best Places to Stay in Puerto Natales

• Yogan House : This is the hostel we stayed at but it felt more like a really nice B&B. The rooms were amazing and it was by far the best breakfast I’ve ever had in South America.
• Vinnhaus : If you’re looking for a stunning, centrally located hotel, this is it. There’s nothing bad I can say about this place. It honestly should cost more.
• Hostal Boutique Factoria Patagonia : Looking for a cabin like experience in Puerto Natales? Then look no further than this spectacular Boutique hotel!

My Experience Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

Hiking the W Trek was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. I met new people and made new friends, all while taking in some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. It was priceless.

The first day was honestly one of the longest, if not the longest. We started by waking up at 6 a.m. and getting a ride to the bus station.

We took the earliest bus because we knew the day would be long. It was quite relaxing, actually, and most of the people on the bus slept.

Things started getting confusing when we arrived at the entrance two hours later. We were told to switch buses but different people kept telling us different buses.

Eventually, we found the right bus, and we were headed another 30 minutes to Pudeto.

We arrived at the dock, bought a cafe late, and waited for the ferry to arrive. You’ll pay the ferry in cash (25,000 CLP).

Once we arrived at Paine Grande, we unpacked, ate lunch and headed to see Lago Grey! We should have stayed the night here and then hiked in the morning because it was already late and we’ve been moving for quite some time now.

You can stop in different spots; you don’t have to go the entire way.

When we finally returned to Paine Grande, we cooked our dinner and immediately went to sleep.

The next day was another long one. All of these days were going to be quite long but the first two were the longest.

We woke up, ate breakfast and hit the trail. Our first goal was to reach Mirador Britanico and then end at Cuernos.

The hike up to this mirador is steep and adds on a lot of mileage. I don’t think going all the way to the top is worth it. Instead, you can go halfway where the views are better and go back down. It’s stunning.

There’s a refugio here, and you can leave your bags at the bottom to hike up since you’ll be coming back down.

From here, we headed to Cuernos, where we then enjoyed a nice salmon meal and a couple of beers and relaxed.

Along this trail to Cuernos, you’ll go along a beach with black and white pebbles. It was raining and the feeling was surreal.

This was the shorter day and I was excited for that. We woke up, ate breakfast, and once again got on the trail early.

The trail was relatively flat for the early section until you met back up with the trail to Chileno from Torres Central.

This part became very steep but once we reached the top, you could see the refugio. We arrived early enough to have a couple beers, take a nap, shower, all before dinner.

After dinner, we washed up and went to bed early because the next day was going to be the best of them all.

Day 4: The Final Day

This was it. This is what we’ve been waiting for. We woke up around 6am, ate a quick breakfast, and got on the trail.

We were actually late to the party as a lot of people who stay at Chileno end up going there for sunrise. I think there was more people there for sunrise then when we arrived around 9am.

The trail was easy at first but became steep and sometimes hard to follow. But once you make it, you’ll know.

I couldn’t stop staring at her. Torres was something from a storytale, and I didn’t want to leave.

We spent around an hour here taking photos and eating snacks before we headed down. As we started to descend, large groups were going up.

After resting at Chileno, we headed back towards Torres Central and the Welcome Center. We bought a shuttle ticket back to the entrance and that was it.

Just like that, it was over.

Final Thoughts

I’ll be back. I told myself I needed to complete the O-trek, and I will. This hike wasn’t only about reaching Torres but everything in between, from making new friends to exploring a totally different part of the world. Patagonia is magical, and everyone should be able to explore this area one day.

Previous post

Minitrekking on Perito Moreno Glacier Review: Complete Guide

How Many Days in El Chalten: My Complete Itinerary

Related posts.

Cerro Manquehue Hike: The Best Viewpoint in Santiago, Chile

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Recent Posts

The Subway Cave Hike in Sedona: Everything You Need to Know

The Schnebly Hill Windows Hike in Sedona: The Complete Guide

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the ‘W’ Trek in Torres del Paine Without A Tour

By Author Steph Dyson

Posted on Last updated: 12th December 2023

Hiking the W in Chilean Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park is one of the absolute highlights of a visit to Patagonia – I should know, I’ve done it twice!

Back in March 2016, I walked the Torres del Paine W trek as part of a tour around Patagonia and was so struck by the park that I returned in March 2017 to hike the Full O Circuit .

In September 2022, I returned on a third occasion, this time to explore the other attractions of Torres del Paine National Park beyond these two, multi-day hikes.

It’s fair to say that on all occasions I have fallen head over heels in love with this part of Chilean Patagonia.

The problem is, the first time I hiked the W trek in Patagonia, I did so as part of a guided tour. We were dropped off at the Pudeto ferry port on Lake Pehoé and from that point onwards barely even had to think for ourselves.

We hiked the W during the day led along the one path by our guides and arrived at night to pre-pitched tents and pre-paid food.

However, it didn’t take more than five minutes of being in the park to realize that a tour was utterly unnecessary and that trekking in Torres del Paine solo and self-guided is easy and will also save you a whole stash of money.

Click to navigate this article:

Know-before-you-go facts about the Torres del Paine W Trek

• How long is the W trek in Torres del Paine? It’s an 80-kilometer (50-mile) hike that most do over four or five days.
• When can you hike the W trek? The park is open year-round, however, for self-guided trekking, you can only hike between October and the end of April. If you want to hike during the winter months (May through September), you’ll need to arrange a guide. Our local partner, Chile Nativo, lead winter tours of the W trek and  offer a 5% discount to Worldly Adventurer readers  (use “Worldly Adventurer” in the referral discount box when you book!).
• Do you need to reserve camping spots/dormitory accommodation in advance of hiking the W? Yes, you must have reservations at each of the campgrounds or dormitories in which you plan to stay during the hike. You might be required to show your reservations when you enter the park, too.
• What about food? You can reserve full board at the campgrounds, which will include an evening meal, breakfast the day after your stay, and a packed lunch for you to take to the next campground. This typically needs to be booked in advance, although if you get to the campground early enough, you can sometimes do it on the day. Some campgrounds offer buffet dining (Grey and Paine Grande), so can be a good place to stock up on some snacks for the following day.
• Are reservations open for the campgrounds and dormitories along the W trek for the 2023/2024 season? Yes, reservations opened in July.
• How fit do you need to be to hike the W trek? While previous backpacking experience is not necessary, you do need a reasonable level of fitness to be able to climb up into the Frances Valley and up to the towers themselves. It’s helpful to have done a couple of practice walks, with a backpack weighing around 10 kilograms (22 pounds), in preparation for the trail.
• Do you need to book your park entrance ticket in advance? You must book online as they are no longer accept payments at the park entrance. Book your ticket online here . You need to download the QR code in Puerto Natales while you have internet (there is no signal in the park) and may need to show a copy of your passport to prove you do not live in Chile.
• How much does it cost to enter Torres del Paine National Park? The cost of entering the park varies according to how long you plan on staying. For up to three days in the national park, it costs $31,200 CLP ($34 USD) for adults and $16,000 CLP ($17 USD) for children aged 12 to 17. For over three days in the park, the cost is $44,500 CLP ($48 USD) for both adults and children.
• What is the altitude of Torres del Paine National Park? The highest point in the park is the John Gardner Pass at an altitude of 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) above sea level. However, only those trekking the O Circuit are required to reach this height; all of the W trek is at altitudes below this.

Firstly though, what actually is the W? The W is a four- or five-day hike in Chilean Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park. It’s named the W because it follows a W-shaped route and can be hiked either from west to east (my preferred route) or from east to west.

Along the way, you stay overnight in official campgrounds, which also have indoor dormitories, covered cooking areas for campers, and restaurants where you can eat pre-ordered meals.

Is the W worth it, though? It’s one of Patagonia’s easiest multi-day hikes and, while hiking for five days might not be at the top of everyone’s to-do list, the scenery in Torres del Paine National Park makes up for the hard work! Every day has spellbinding views: whether of Grey Glacier on day one, the French Valley on day two or three, or the eponymous towers on the final day of the hike.

You’ll finish tired but truly fulfilled by the experience – and proud of yourself for having completed it! Bear in mind that the W trek is a moderately challenging hike. If you’re able to walk up to 18 kilometers (11 miles) per day (and feel like you would be able to do that over multiple days), then you will find this hike perfectly doable.

That said, the hike up to the towers on the final day of the W (or the first, if you’re hiking east to west), is classed as a difficult hike due to the elevation gain of 900 meters (2,956 ft).

Bear in mind that you will be trekking with a backpack; the contents will depend on whether you’re carrying your tent and meals or planning on renting camping equipment and paying for meals at the campgrounds en route. Before hiking up the French Valley and up to the towers, you can also leave your backpacks at the rangers’ station or campsite, which means you won’t have to carry them up much elevation.

I highly recommend that, before heading to Patagonia, you go on a couple of hikes of around 18 kilometers (11 miles) with a backpack that will mimic the weight you’ll be carrying in the park – this will also help you to break in any hiking boots you might have bought for the trek and find out if they give you blisters!

How much does it cost to hike the W?

I’ve hiked the W twice: once as part of a tour and another time independently as part of hiking the O Circuit (which is a nine- or ten-day hike circumnavigating the national park and whose final five days are the W).

On my second visit to the national park, it became clear that I really didn’t need to hike the trails using a tour company. Not only is it expensive (it costs from $1,500 USD per person), but it’s unnecessary; all of the trails are clearly marked and busy with people and it’s easy enough to make camping reservations yourself.

Hiking the W independently costs $157,000 CLP per person ($173 USD – check here for the most up-to-date conversion), plus the cost of food .

Camping and Transport cost breakdown*

• Return bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park: $13.323 CLP ($15 USD)
• Adult entrance fee into the park: $44,000 CLP ($49 USD)
• One-way ferry from Pudeto de Paine Grande Ranger Station: $30,000 CLP ($40 USD) 
• Grey Campsite: $11,000 CLP (per person) ($12 USD)
• Paine Grande Campsite: $11,000 CLP (per person) ($12 USD)
• Francés Campsite: $31,000 CLP (per person) ($35 USD)**
• El Chileno Campsite: $31,000 CLP (per person) ($35 USD)***

* these figures are all updated for the 2023/2024 season.

**based on two people sharing a tent

***Torres Ranger Station (the free camping closest to the towers) is closed for the foreseeable future.

Food breakdown

• When we hiked the Full Circuit, we paid $68,620 CLP ($95 USD) between four people for all of our food. That’s $17,155 CLP ($20,5 USD) per person. No kidding.
• So for your food budget, expect to spend no more than $10,000 CLP ($12 USD) (read this full outline of exactly what we took with us in terms of food when we walked the Circuit)

If you want to save time, the website Torres Hike can show you the availability of accommodation and allows you to book it directly through them , rather than having to go via the Vertice Patagonia and Las Torres (previously known as Fantastico Sur) websites. All you need to do is plug in your dates and it’ll show you which campgrounds and refugios are available – saving you LOTS of time. You can then book directly with them, rather than having to try and book through the other websites!

How do you make campsite and refugio bookings for Torres del Paine?

The system for making refugio and camping reservations has changed dramatically over the past couple of years and a lot of the information you find online about the subject is out of date.

I also put together this epic, 5,000-word post about securing camping reservations in Torres del Paine that literally walks you through the process. However, I highly recommend just using Torres Hike . Yes, they charge you a small fee, but it honestly saves you so much time.

The reason it’s so challenging to make reservations independently is because there are two different companies who offer campgrounds and dorms in the park and you will have to reserve some campgrounds with one on their website and some with another on their website; trust me, it’s a painful process. Save yourself the stress and hassle of doing this by using Torres Hike instead.

Reservations are now open for the 2023/2024 season. If you’re struggling to find spots for the coming season, you should also read my article about alternative ways to hike the W if you can’t get camping reservations .

You can also check out this ultimate guide to Torres del Paine National Park , covering everything from the best time to visit, to where to stay and what to do beyond the W trek.

If you’re completely baffled by the process and just want someone else to deal with it, you can book with my partner in the region, Chile Nativo , who organise, guided, self-guided and fast-track (three-day) W treks. They give a 5% discount to Worldly Adventurer readers (use “Worldly Adventurer” in the referral discount box when you book!).

What equipment do you need to hike the W without a tour?

To pay as little as possible trekking Torres del Paine solo, it does require that you have the following pieces of equipment:

• A tent: I strongly recommend the lightweight Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 tent  ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon ), the North Face Stormbreak 2 (buy it on REI | Amazon ), or, for more room, the North Face Stormbreak 3 (buy it on ( REI ).
• A sleeping bag: I recommend the Nemo Disco 15 for women (buy it on REI ) and for men (buy it on REI ).
• A sleeping pad: Get a cheap foam pad ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon ) or a more comfortable Therm-a-rest Prolite (buy it on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ).
• A headlamp : Useful for midnight toilet visits and the hike up to the towers (buy one on REI | Black Diamond | Backcountry ).
• A cooking stove and gas: The affordable MSR PocketRocket 2 (buy it on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ) is great value for those on more of a budget, and is super lightweight.
• Cooking pots: I recommend the MSR pots set (buy them on Backcountry | Amazon ) as they’re good quality and food will stick less, which will make them easier to clean.
• Plates, a mug, and cutlery : A collapsible bowl is a great space saver (check out Sea to Summit on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ); I recommend a reasonably cheap, plastic mug (buy it on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ) and for cutlery, a multipurpose spork is a good choice (check them out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ).

I’ve detailed exactly the items that I packed for the O Circuit in Torres del Paine (and which are still relevant to the W trek) and also what  I pack in my rucksack on a trip to Patagonia in this packing checklist . Both have a free packing checklist download, too. 

I recommend you take a look if you’re thinking of investing in camping equipment before you head over to Patagonia (something I would strongly advise if you plan on doing any other hikes or  wild camping or if you’re looking at exploring the Carretera Austral ). 

Planning Your Trip to Patagonia?

Save time, stress & money with a customized travel itinerary planned for you by a Patagonia expert

What previous clients have said:

Steph’s help laying out an itinerary for Chile was huge toward us having a great trip.  She listened to our interests and compiled a framework that we could follow to make our plans.  She included many practical tips as well as numerous options. She truly saved us many, many hours of research.

If you’re already traveling around Patagonia, what can you do to get your hands on this camping equipment for Torres del Paine?

You have three options:

Buy equipment in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales

There is a wide range of hiking and camping equipment shops in these two towns. Punta Arenas is a tax-free zone so prices here are cheaper than you will find in Puerto Natales, although Calle Manuel Bulnes in the latter has some gear shops.

I actually found a pair of waterproof trousers for only $15,000 CLP ($18 USD) in one of the shops there, which is a lot cheaper than I thought they would be.

If you’re looking to buy equipment for camping and hiking in Torres del Paine National Park, you should be able to find everything that you need in these shops, but you will pay an elevated price for good-quality gear.

Estimated additional cost: $360,000 CLP+ ($400 USD+) per person

Rent equipment from Puerto Natales

Your second option is to rent all of your camping and cooking equipment from Puerto Natales. Yaghan House  (O’Higgins 584; contact them here to reserve; they also have a 12pm daily talk about the park) and Lili Patagonico’s  (Arturo Prat 479; you can book online here ) have cheap, good-quality rental gear. Rental Natales (you can book online) has more stock but is very expensive.

Remember to check the equipment thoroughly before committing as it does get a lot of wear and tear on the trail and you want something without holes and with zips that close to keep you warm and dry!

Estimated additional cost: $147,000 CLP ($162 USD) per person (based on two sharing) for five days’ rental

Rent equipment at each campsite in Torres del Paine National Park

Your final option is by far the most expensive. Each of the main camping grounds in Torres del Paine rents out tents, sleeping bags, and sleeping mats – but at a very high cost.

For example, in Grey campground, you can hire a two-man tent for $29,000 CLP ($32 USD), a sleeping bag for $21,000 CLP ($23 USD), and a sleeping mat for $8,000 CLP ($9 USD), bringing up your overnight cost (including the cost of the camping site) to $53,000 CLP ($58 USD) per person per night (based on two sharing).

Bear in mind, this doesn’t include the cost of hiring cooking equipment (which you can’t do at the campsites), so you will also need to pay for meals at each – an additional cost of between $55,000 CLP ($61 USD) and $80,000 CLP ($88 USD).

Estimated additional cost: $232,000 CLP ($256 USD) per person for equipment and $256,000 CLP ($282 USD) per person for full board for five days hiking the W circuit (based on two sharing).

How do you get from Torres del Paine National Park to Puerto Natales ?

It’s easy enough to get to Torres del Paine National Park with public transport.

Four companies travel from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine each morning and all cost around $22,000 CLP ($25 USD) for a return ticket (which can be used on any of the company’s buses back from the park).

You can buy tickets online for Bus Sur (who have lots of departures); other companies do run this route, however you need to buy tickets from their offices, which are inside the Terminal Rodoviario (Av. España 1455) in Puerto Natales.

If there are a few of you, consider negotiating a group price like we did, which got us a few thousand pesos off per ticket.

It’s advisable to book your bus ticket at least a week in advance when visiting the park in high season (December through February).

Timetables for buses from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine (east to south: Laguna Amarga, Pudeto and Administración)*

Conventionally, buses have departed from Puerto Natales and entered the park via the northeastern entrance at Laguna Amarga (for the minibus to the eastern starting point for the W), before continuing to Pudeto (for the catamaran to the western starting point for the W) and finally to Administración (not a destination along the W trek).

These now continue along to Hotel Lago Grey and stop at Camping Pehoé en route, too.

These bus timetables are below and can be booked online in advance via Bus Sur’s website:

Pre-pandemic, the following companies also offered services. However, their websites are no longer active and I can’t find them on any local booking sites.

That doesn’t mean they don’t have buses, however; if you can’t get a reservation with Bus Sur then it’s still worth going to the bus terminal in Puerto Natales as some will likely still be in operation and with similar departure times:

• Transport Maria José (tel. 61/2410 951)
• Buses Gómez (tel. 61/2415700)
• JB Buses Patagonia (tel. 61/2410 242)
• Buses Juan Ojeda (tel. 9/8943 7808)

*Service available November through April

Timetables for buses from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales (Administración, Pudeto, Laguna Amarga)*

The following timetables are when buses can return you to Puerto Natales from the four different stops in the park. They can also be booked online and in advance via Bus Sur’s website.

Note that you have to return with the same bus company you entered the park with – you won’t be allowed on a different company’s buses. You don’t have to book a particular bus time; you will be able to turn up and get onto whichever bus you choose.

As above, there should be other companies offering buses to and from Puerto Natales into the park; visit the Terminal Rodovario in Puerto Natales to find out if you can’t make a reservation with Bus Sur.

Where do you buy your Torres del Paine entrance ticket?

The cost of entering the park varies according to how long you plan on staying. For up to three days in the park, it costs $31,200 CLP ($34 USD) for adults and $16,000 CLP ($17 USD) for children aged 12 to 17. For over three days in the park, the cost is $44,500 CLP ($48 USD) for both adults and children.

It’s no longer possible to buy your ticket at the Laguna Amarga entrance to the national park (the first stop on the bus if entering via that entrance) or at the Administración entrance (if entering via that entrance).

You must buy it in advance online here . You must download the QR code to your phone before you enter the park (as you won’t have signal when you get there!) and bring your passport to show that you’re not a Chilean resident.

Torres del Paine W trek itineraries

Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park is significantly cheaper if you go self-guided.

There is also absolutely no chance that you’ll get lost. Believe me, the W trek is now so busy that (unfortunately) you see people all the time.

If you want to trek Torres del Paine solo, you can either hike from west to east (my preference, as I’ll go into below) or east to west.

When you enter the park and pay your fee, you will be provided with a Torres del Paine W trek map to be used when you’re walking.

Unfortunately, the map that you get from CONAF doesn’t include distances. I would strongly recommend you download Maps.me, a free app that has all the trails marked and you can use it to work out distances if required.

Itinerary one: W trek in five days with sunrise at Mirador Las Torres (west to east route)

Why hike this route:

• This trail builds up to the most exciting part of the trek, the Mirador Las Torres viewpoint on the final day.
• It also starts with a short first day, giving you time to get into your stride.

Want to know how to book the campsites mentioned in this itinerary? Head over to this comprehensive article about booking Torres del Paine camping or hostel accommodation . 

Day One: Puerto Natales to Grey

• Distance:  11 kilometers (6.8 miles)
• Duration: 3-4 hours hiking

6:50am Take a bus from Puerto Natales to the Pudeto (the catamaran ferry stop). You will stop at the park entrance when you first get into Torres del Paine to show your entrance ticket.

You must have bought this in advance online here and downloaded the QR code to your phone (there isn’t internet cell service at Laguna Amarga!).

9:50am Arrive at Pudeto. Queue up for the catamaran ferry across the lake.

10:30am Take the ferry across to Paine Grande*. This service is operated by  Hielos Patagonicos  ($25,000 ($30 USD) single, cash only). Tickets cannot be reserved in advance; you buy them at the ferry port.

Ferry schedules do sometimes change; you can check up-to-date ones here .

11:40am Arrive at Paine Grande and trek to Grey. The trail starts to go uphill but soon levels off and has great views of Lago Grey to keep your spirits up!

16:00pm The hike from Paine Grande takes between three and four hours so expect to arrive late afternoon at Grey to pitch your tent, meet some other hikers, and cook dinner.

Day Two: Grey to Paine Grande

• Distance:  18 kilometers (11 miles)
• Duration: 6-7 hours hiking

8:00am Wake up and have breakfast.

9:00am Leave your stuff at the campsite and return a few hours later to pack everything up. From the campsite, an additional one kilometre north through the forest brings you go two viewpoints lying over a kilometre from the glacier’s snout. From here, look out for enormous chunks of ice in the water.

Continue a further 2.5 kilometres (around a one-hour hike) along the path along the edge of the glacier to reach a series of two rope bridges hanging over ravines.

From here you get the best views of the glacier and, if you’re lucky and it’s a clear day, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field beyond.

Return to Grey along the same path and back to Paine Grande.

16:00pm You’ll arrive at Paine Grande at around 4pm, which is where you’ll spend the night. The facilities are great here, with a covered dining area for campers.

Day Three: Paine Grande to Francés

• Distance:  11.5 kilometers (6.8 miles) plus 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) for the extension to Mirador Británico)
• Duration: 4 hours hiking (7.5 hours with extension to Mirador Británico)

8:00am Get up, have breakfast and pack up your tent.

9:00am Today begins with a flattish trek around Lake Nordernskjold to Guardería Italiano. You can leave your bags here with the ranger before hiking up into the Francés Valley.

Note that there’s a new trail that begins about one km (15 mins) after you leave Paine Grande. It’s a little longer – 9 km (5.6 miles) rather than 7 km (4.3 miles) – and so takes around 30 minutes longer, but it has fewer hikers on it and is really pretty.

11:00am The hike up the Francés Valley may be long or painfully short – all depending on the weather. Both times I’ve walked Torres del Paine W hike I’ve experienced dreadful weather in the Francés Valley.

This part of the hike marks the central section of the W and it’s all uphill. After an hour’s steep gradient up a rocky, slippery trail to Mirador Francés, look for Glaciar Francés as it clings to the mountainside in the west.

If you’re feeling energetic, and the weather’s playing fair, you can continue climbing to Mirador Británico (an additional 3.5 km (2 miles) each way; around three hours’ return), where you’ll view a ring of toothy granite peaks, including the park’s second most famous landmark, the three-horned Cuernos del Paine.

It’s one of the park’s most stunning viewpoints—when the sky is clear. You may even see an endangered Southern Andean huemul (a type of deer) around here.

Luckily, the hike back is downhill to return to Campamento Italiano, where you pick up your rucksack and hike the 30 minutes to reach Francés.

13:00pm-16:00pm Arrive at Francés*, pitch up and enjoy the views across the lake.

*If there is no availability at Francés when you go to make your refugio or campsite reservations , you can instead book to stay at Los Cuernos, which is a further 3.5 kilometers (one hour) from Francés.

Day Four: Francés to El Chileno*

• Distance:  17 kilometers (10.5 miles)
• Duration: 4-5 hours hiking

9:00am Leave the campsite and begin the trek to El Chileno, situated about two hours from the bottom of the towers.

This trek meanders alongside the lake, gaining and losing altitude as it goes, until you reach the start of the valley where it becomes all uphill. The views are incredible but if it’s sunny, it will be hot!

16:00pm Arrive at El Chileno* and pitch your tent. Get everything organised for the morning as you’ll be leaving early. Check with the staff what time sunrise will be the next morning.

*For the 2023-2024 season, and for the foreseeable future, Torres Ranger Station is not open to the public. It’s no longer as easy to get to the towers for dawn as the distance is now around four kilometres, rather than one kilometre; however, it is still possible to do it.

If you can’t get a pitch at Chileno, it is possible to hike from Torres Central/Norte ($25 USD camping pitch per person). Although you’re not officially supposed to hike from here up to the towers, you can: leave four hours ahead of sunrise. It’s an additional one-hour 45 minutes if starting from Torres Central/Norte to reach the towers.

Day Five: El Chileno*  to Laguna Amarga and Puerto Natales

• Distance:  13 kilometers (8 miles) plus 8 kilometers (5 miles) for the hike from the Centro de Bienvenida to Laguna Amarga)
• Duration: 6 hours hiking (add an extra 1.5-2 hours for the hike to Laguna Amarga)

4:30am Wake up and take a small bag (including warm clothes and a snack) to see the torres at dawn. Don’t forget your torch as the route is over rocks and can be treacherous.

4:45am Start hiking up to the torres . For us at the very start of March, dawn was at about 7:15am.

8:00am Leave the torres and return to the campsite. Pack up, have breakfast start the long walk down.

12.30pm When you get to Las Torres Hotel car park, there is a shop selling ice creams. To get the shuttle minibus to take you to Laguna Amarga, you need to hike one kilometre down the road towards Torres Central/Norte to reach the Centro de Bienvenida /Welcome Centre.

Shuttles ($4,000 CLP ($6 USD) – you must pay in cash at the shuttle) leave throughout the day to take you to Laguna Amarga. Departures leave the Welcome Centre at 8am, 2pm, 4pm and 7pm daily , and take about 30 mins.

If you can face the walk, it’s about another one and a half hours to the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station where buses are waiting to pick you up.

Hiking there, you can get good views of the towers as they rise out of the Cordillera Paine if the weather is clear.

14:30pm Take the bus from Laguna Amarga back to Puerto Natales.

17:00pm Arrive in Puerto Natales bus station and go and enjoy a pint at Cerveza Baguales on the Plaza de Armas to celebrate!

If time allows, consider spending a night in Puerto Natales to explore all the town has to offer before your onward journey. Our guide to the best hotels in Puerto Natales caters for all budgets, styles and preferences.

*If you can’t get a pitch at Chileno, it is possible to hike from Torres Central/Norte ($21 USD camping pitch per person). Although you’re not officially supposed to hike from here up to the towers, you can: leave four hours ahead of sunrise. It’s an additional one-hour 45 minutes if starting from Torres Central/Norte to reach the towers.

Make sure you bring a headtorch for climbing in the dark (it will get lighter as you reach the more difficult stretch of hiking just below the towers), plus warm clothing (even including a sleeping bag) to use at the top and keep you cozy as you enjoy the sunrise.

Itinerary two: Torres del Paine W trek in four days with sunrise at Mirador Las Torres (west to east route)

Why hike this route?

• It’s a good option if you don’t have much time

Day Zero – Puerto Natales to Paine Grande

• Distance: nil
• Duration: nil

2.30pm Catch the Bus Sur bus from Puerto Natales.

You will stop at the park entrance at Laguna Amarga when you first get into Torres del Paine to pay your entrance fee.

You must have paid for your ticket in advance online here AND downloaded the QR code; you will not find cell service or WIFI at the entrance.

5.15pm Arrive at Pudeto take the ferry across to Paine Grande at 6pm. This service is operated by  Hielos Patagonicos  ($25,000 ($30 USD) single, cash only).

Tickets cannot be reserved in advance; you buy them at the ferry port. Ferry schedules and prices do sometimes change; you can check up-to-date ones here and the 9am ferry only runs November through the end of March.

6.30pm Pitch up at Paine Grande, have some dinner and then have an early night in preparation for a long day’s hiking tomorrow.

Day One – Paine Grande to Paine Grande

• Distance:  22 kilometers (14 miles) plus 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) if you hike to the last viewpoint)
• Duration: 7-9 hours hiking

7:00am Get up, have breakfast, and pack up your tent.

08:00am Take the trail towards Grey; it starts uphill but soon levels off and has great views of Lago Grey to keep your spirits up!

If you’re fit, you can hike an additional one kilometre north through the forest brings you go two viewpoints lying over a kilometre from the glacier’s snout. From here, look out for enormous chunks of ice in the water.

Turn back and return the way you came, past Grey and then back to Paine Grande.

17:00pm  Arrive late afternoon back at Paine Grande to meet some other hikers and cook dinner.

Day Two – Paine Grande to Frances

9:00am  Hike to the ranger station, Guardaria Italiano (around two hours), where you leave your rucksack with the ranger. You’ll pick it up on your way back down from the Francés Valley.

The hike up the Francés Valley may be long or painfully short – all depending on the weather. Both times I’ve walked Torres del Paine W hike I’ve experienced dreadful weather in the Francés Valley.

If you’re feeling energetic, and the weather’s playing fair, you can continue climbing to Mirador Británico (an additional 3.5 km each way; around three hours’ return), where you’ll view a ring of toothy granite peaks, including the park’s second most famous landmark, the three-horned Cuernos del Paine.

Luckily, the hike back is downhill to return to Italiano, where you pick up your rucksack and hike the 30 minutes to reach Francés.

*If there is no availability at Francés when you go to make your refugio or campsite reservations , you can instead book to stay at Los Cuernos, which is a further 3.5 kilometres (one hour) from Francés.

Day Three: Francés to El Chileno*

9:00am Leave the campsite and begin the trek to El Chileno, situated about two hours from the bottom of the towers. This trek meanders alongside the lake, gaining and losing altitude as it goes, until you reach the start of the valley where it becomes all uphill.

The views are incredible but if it’s sunny, it will be hot!

*For the 2023-2024 season and for the foreseeable future, Campamento Torres, the campground just below the towers, is not open to the public. It’s no longer as easy to get to the towers for dawn as the distance is now around four kilometres, rather than one kilometre; however, it is still possible to do it.

Day Four: El Chileno* to Laguna Amarga and Puerto Natales

Shuttles ($4,000 CLP ($6 USD) – you must pay with cash in the shuttle) leave throughout the day to take you to Laguna Amarga. Departures are at 8am, 2pm, 4pm, 7pm and takes about 30 minutes.

*If you can’t get a pitch at El Chileno, it is possible to hike from Torres Central/Norte ($25 USD camping pitch per person). Although you’re not officially supposed to hike from here up to the towers, you can: leave four hours ahead of sunrise.

Make sure you bring a headtorch for climbing in the dark (it will get lighter as you reach the more difficult stretch of hiking just below the towers), plus warm clothing (even including a sleeping bag) to use at the top and keep you cosy as you enjoy the sunrise.

Itinerary three: Torres del Paine W hike in five days (east to west route)

Why hike this route: 

• Not only do you get to complete the W, it gives you time for a bonus extra hike to the Los Cuernos or Salto Grande viewpoints.

Want to know how to book the campsites mentioned in this itinerary? Head over to this comprehensive article about booking Torres del Paine camping or hostel accommodation .

Day One: Puerto Natales to Mirador Las Torres & Torres Central/Norte

• Distance: 18.4 kilometers (11.4 miles) 
• Duration: 6-7 hours hiking 

6:45am Take a bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga. You can book tickets online with Bus Sur or go to the bus station in Puerto Natales the day before you start hiking and book with them or one of the other companies there. 

8:45am Arrive at Laguna Amarga. Show your entrance ticket at the ranger’s station.

9:00am To get to the start of the W, you need to take a shuttle bus ($4,000 CLP ($6 USD) – you must pay in cash at the shuttle) to the Centro de Bienvenida (Welcome Centre). 

Departures theoretically leave from Laguna Amarga at 9am, 3pm,  5pm and 8pm daily , and take about 30 mins. However, Las Torres (who run the shuttle service) have assured me that the shuttle bus awaits the arrival of the bus from Puerto Natales and will take all passengers that are waiting to board – sending for a second shuttle if there are more passengers than seats. 

9.30am You’ll be staying overnight at the Torres Central/Norte campground, so check in and leave your big bags and take warm layers, food, and plenty of water for the hike up to the towers. 

Start hiking up to the torres . It’s all uphill and it can be quite steep at points, but it’s worth the effort! All in all, you gain around 800m (2,620 feet).

Take your time, drink plenty of water, and relax when you get to the top. 

13:30pm Arrive at Mirador Las Torres and enjoy the views. 

15.00pm Start hiking back to the campsite; you’re trekking back the way you came. 

17.00pm Pitch your tent, have dinner, and relax! 

Day Two: Torres Central/Norte to Francés 

• Distance: 14.5 kilometers (9 miles) 
• Duration: 5.5 hours hiking

9:00am Get up, have breakfast and pack up your tent.

10:00am You leave Torres Central heading west and reach Lago Nordernskjold. The trail meanders alongside the lake, gaining and losing altitude as it goes. The views are incredible but if it’s sunny, it will be hot!

15:30pm Reach Francés campground, where you’ll stay tonight. Pitch up and enjoy views across the lake. Bear in mind that check-in at Francés doesn’t start until 2.30pm and hot showers aren’t available until 5pm, so take your time on the hike. 

Day Three: Francés to Mirador Británico & Paine Grande

• Distance: 14 kilometers (8.6 miles) from Francés to Mirador Británico and 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) from Guardería Italiano to Paine Grande
• Duration: 5.5 hours hiking from Francés to Mirador Británico and 2.5 hours from Guardería Italiano to Paine Grande

9:00am If the weather is good, today is going to be a long day as you climb up into the Francés Valley. Both times I’ve walked Torres del Paine W hike I’ve experienced dreadful weather in the Francés Valley.

From Francés, head west along the path beside the lake to reach Guardería Italiano, a rangers’ station and former (now defunct) campground. Here, you can drop your big rucksacks; just take warm clothing and food for the hike up to the Mirador Británico* (British Viewpoint). This part of the hike marks the central section of the W and it’s all uphill. After an hour’s steep gradient up a rocky, slippery trail to Mirador Francés, look for Glaciar Francés as it clings to the mountainside in the west.

Luckily, the hike back is downhill to return to Guardería Italiano. Pick up your bags and take the new trail that begins just after the rangers’ station; take the lefthand fork that follows closer along the lake. It’s a little longer – 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) rather than 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) – and so takes around 30 minutes longer, but it has fewer hikers on it and is really pretty.

18:30pm Arrive at Paine Grande, pitch your tent and enjoy a hot shower!

*You’re only allowed to start hiking up to the viewpoint until midday, so don’t delay getting to the rangers’ station – although this rule isn’t always enforced!

Day Four: Paine Grande to Grey & Puerto Natales

• Distance: 11 kilometers (6.8 miles) plus six kilometers (3.7 miles) to reach rope bridges
• Duration: 4 hours hiking plus 1.5 hours to reach rope bridges

10:00am Take the trail heading north to Grey. It starts by going uphill but soon levels off and has great views of Lago Grey to keep your spirits up! It takes between three and four hours. 

14:00pm Arrive at Grey, where you can leave your big bags. From the campsite, an additional one kilometre north through the forest brings you to two viewpoints lying over a kilometre from the glacier’s snout. From here, look out for enormous chunks of ice in the water.

From here you get the best views of the glacier and, if you’re lucky and it’s a clear day, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field beyond. Return back to Grey. 

16:00pm Arrive at Grey, pitch up and relax – you’ve almost finished the hike!

Day Five: Grey to Paine Grande and Puerto Natales

• Distance: 11 kilometers (6.8 miles) plus 2.3 kilometers (1.4 miles) to the Cuernos Viewpoint
• Duration: 4 hours hiking 

7:00am Get up, pack up your tent, and have breakfast. Return to Paine Grande along the same path.

10:30am Join the queue for the ferry to Pudeto.

11:00am Take the ferry to Pudeto. This service is operated by Hielos Patagonicos ($25,000 ($30 USD) single, cash only). Tickets cannot be reserved in advance; you buy them at the ferry port.

11:30am Arrive at Pudeto. From here, you can either have lunch in the tiny cafeteria at the ferry dock or you can hike from Pudeto to the Cuernos Viewpoint, a 2.3-kilometer (1.4-mile) one-way hike from the ferry dock; it should take you around an hour each way and grants you incredible views west and east along the Paine Massif range.

A shorter option is the 600-meter (0.3-mile) trail to the Salto Grande Waterfall, which has stunning views of Los Cuernos behind it., 

2:30pm Take the bus from Pudeto back to Puerto Natales. You should arrive around 5.05pm. 

Itinerary four: W trek in five days with sunrise at Mirador Las Torres (east to west route)

• You get to see the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres and hiking to it on your first day means your legs won’t be as tired. 

Day Zero: Puerto Natales to El Chileno

• Distance: 5 kilometers (3miles) 
• Duration: 2 hours hiking 

12:00pm Take a bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga. 

2.00pm Arrive at Laguna Amarga. Show your entrance ticket at the ranger’s station.

2.30pm To get to the start of the W, you need to take the shuttle bus ($4,000 CLP ($6 USD) – you must pay in cash at the shuttle) to the Centro de Bienvenida (Welcome Centre). 

3pm Start hiking up to El Chileno, the closest campground to Mirador Las Torres, the famed viewpoint of the towers. This is the smallest campground, so sells out fast.

If you can’t get a spot here, you’ll need to camp at Torres Norte/Central and hike four hours tomorrow to reach the viewpoint. 

5pm Arrive at El Chileno. Set up your tent, have dinner and relax. 

Day One: El Chileno to Mirador Las Torres and then Los Cuernos 

• Distance: 19.4 kilometers (12 miles)
• Duration: 6.5 hours hiking 

4:30am Wake up and take a small bag (including warm clothes, a sleeping bag, and a snack) to see the torres at dawn. Don’t forget your torch as the route is over rocks and can be treacherous.

8:00am Leave the mirador and return to the campsite. Pack up, have breakfast start the walk down. When the trail splits, you’ll need to take the righthand path that goes alongside Lago Nordenskjöld.

This trek meanders alongside the lake, gaining and losing altitude as it goes. The views are incredible but if it’s sunny, it will be hot!

3:00pm Arrive at Los Cuernos*, pitch up and relax. 

*If there is no availability at Los Cuernos, when you go to make your refugio or campsite reservations , you can instead book to stay at Francés, which is a further 3.5 kilometers (one hour) beyond Los Cuernos.

Day Two: Los Cuernos to Paine Grande

• Distance: 17.5 kilometers (10.8 miles) from Los Cuernos to Mirador Británico and 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) from Guardería Italiano to Paine Grande
• Duration: 6.5 hours hiking from Francés to Mirador Británico and 2.5 hours from Guardería Italiano to Paine Grande

7:00am Get up, have breakfast and pack up your tent.

8:00am Today begins with the path alongside Lake Nordernskjold to Guardería Italiano. You can leave your bags here with the ranger before hiking up into the Francés Valley to Mirador Británico*.

10:30am The hike up the Francés Valley may be long or painfully short – all depending on the weather. Both times I’ve walked Torres del Paine W hike I’ve experienced dreadful weather in the Francés Valley.

Luckily, the hike back is downhill to return to Campamento Italiano. From there, pick up your rucksack and hike the two remaining hours to reach Paine Grande. 

Note that there’s a new trail that begins just after Campamento Italiano; take the lefthand fork that follows closer along the lake. It’s a little longer – 9 km (5.6 miles) rather than 7 km (4.3 miles) – and so takes around 30 minutes longer, but it has fewer hikers on it and is really pretty.

17:00pm-18:00pm Arrive at Paine Grande, pitch up and enjoy the views across the lake.

Day Three: Paine Grande to Grey and back to Paine Grande

9:00am Hike from Paine Grande to Grey; you can leave everything in your tent, except the items you need for today. The trail starts to go uphill but soon levels off and has great views of Lago Grey to keep your spirits up! 

13:00pm Arrive at Grey. From the campsite, an additional one kilometre north through the forest brings you to two viewpoints lying over a kilometre from the glacier’s snout. From here, look out for enormous chunks of ice in the water.

15:00pm Return to Grey along the same path and back to Paine Grande.

19:00pm Arrive at the campground, relax, have dinner and enjoy the feeling of finishing the trek!

Day Four: Paine Grande to Puerto Natales

• Distance: N/A
• Duration: N/A

9.00am Join the queue for the ferry to Pudeto.

9:30am Take the ferry to Pudeto. This service is operated by Hielos Patagonicos ($25,000 ($30 USD) single, cash only). Tickets cannot be reserved in advance; you buy them at the ferry port.

10:00am Arrive at Pudeto.

10.30am Take the bus from Pudeto to Puerto Natales and celebrate your successful completion of the W!

Top tips for hiking the Torres del Paine W Trek self-guided

Having now been hiking in Torres del Paine National Park twice, I’ve learned a few important tips that have kept me happy, sane and comfortable en route :

Top equipment tips

• Camping in Torres del Paine at Francés, Los Cuernos, and El Chileno is on wooden platforms. If you plan to stay at any of these campsites, you will need extra cord or string to help you attach your tent without using pegs.
• Bring a range of warm and wet weather clothing. Check out my packing list for hiking the Circuit in Torres del Paine for the full guide to the clothing that I packed for the trip (and which is also a good guide to what to pack for the W). It also includes a free, downloadable checklist. 
• Bring a book or some cards for the evenings as you tend to finish hiking quite early and if it’s cold and wet, you’ll want to retire to the shelters with something to do.
• Having a lightweight tent really does make a difference camping on this trek. Have a look at my review of the Big Agnes HVUL2 , the really lightweight backpacking tent that we used for the O Circuit.
• If you’re carrying all of your own equipment, a 60-litre rucksack should be big enough.
• Pack all of your clothes into dry bags (better than a bin bag which can easily rip). The weather changes rapidly and on days when it’s pissing it down, you’ll welcome the fact that your sleeping bag and clothes are dry. I recommend the Sea to Summit dry bags (buy them on REI | Amazon ).
• Bring a rucksack cover. I’ve heard mixed advice on this one, but a rucksack cover kept our bags dry (and so lighter) when we were hiking in Torres del Paine National Park and no, they didn’t blow away in the wind. If your rucksack doesn’t come with its own, you can find them in various sizes on | Osprey | Amazon (make sure it’s the correct size for your bag – otherwise it will blow away!).

Top food tips

• There is a much wider (and cheaper) selection of food in the supermarkets in Punta Arenas than in the one Unimarc supermarket in Puerto Natales. I recommend doing your food shop there before you take the bus to Puerto Natales. We left the stuff we didn’t need in our hostel in Punta Arenas.
• You can also buy trekking food and bring it with you , but it’s heavier and far more expensive than organising your food when you get to Puerto Natales.
• Pack everything into zip-lock plastic bags and bin all the original packaging that you can to save on carrying any extra weight. Also, don’t bring the full pack of rice if you’re only going to eat half of it – every bit of weight counts!
• You can buy basic staples (pasta, biscuits, tomato puree etc.) from the shops at Paine Grande, Grey, Francés and El Chileno to stock up on supplies. It’s pretty expensive, but totally worth it. They also all stock beer – an additional expense that I didn’t include in the costings for the W trek!
• You don’t need to bring water with you as it’s available from all the glacier meltwater streams that you’ll run into along the W and is drinkable from the taps at each of the campsites. If you’re nervous about drinking the water, you can also bring a Steripen  (read my review of the Steripen Adventurer  or buy one from  Amazon or buy a newer Steripen UV Ultra from REI ) to zap anything that might be nasty or a Grayl ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon ) – find out why I recommend these water filters for South American travel .
• My dad is a pro at packing food for multi-day treks. Read what food we took with us for the O Circuit (and which you can use as a guide for the W too).
• You will need Chilean pesos on you for the park as nowhere accepts cards. You’ll need $25,000 CLP ($35 USD) for the catamaran ferry and then extras for additional food, beer, and anything else you want to buy.

Camping in Torres del Paine

The following summarises some of the main points about booking campsites and refugios in Torres del Paine for the W trek, but you can get a full overview of how to book campsites in Torres del Paine  with this article updated for the 2023/2024 season.

Reservations with Las Torres and Vertice Patagonia

You will need to book your campsites in Torres del Paine in advance. For example, in August 2022, many of the campsites and refugios were fully booked for December through February 2023, which just shows how far in advance it gets booked up.

Before you start panicking, what happens each year is that reservations free up again in September/October, probably due to the fact that tour agencies in Puerto Natales make mass reservations for the high season, and then cancel them when they don’t fill the bookings.

If you need anything planned well in advance, then this isn’t going to suit your plans. If your plans are a little more open and you can wait until closer until the time (and keep checking back to see if any spots have opened up), then you should still be able to hike the W during these months.

My recommendation would be to hike outside of these months anyway (November or March) to avoid the crowds as much as possible, but either way, you still MUST SECURE YOUR RESERVATIONS with Las Torres (Francés, Los Cuernos, El Chileno) and Vertice Patagonia (Paine Grande and Grey).

If you’re trying to get a space last-minute, you can always pop into either of their offices in Puerto Natales and see if they can book you in. I’ve heard of people having success with this with only a day or two’s notice.

Reservations with CONAF

For the 2023/2024 season, and for the foreseeable future, all of the CONAF campsites remain closed.

Upgrade your solo Torres del Paine W trek, Patagonia with these changes

If you’re not so bothered about hiking the W in Torres del Paine National Park on a complete budget, consider making the following small tweaks to your itinerary.

Stay overnight at Los Cuernos ($80,000 CLP ($88 USD) per person full board) instead of Francés

Again, this is only really possible if you stay overnight on Day Two in Paine Grande. When we hiked the Full Circuit, we decided to treat ourselves to an all-inclusive night at Los Cuernos.

This meant we still pitched our own tent on a wooden platform, but we had a three-course dinner, breakfast, and packed lunch for the next morning, which reduced the amount we had to pack in our rucksacks for the hike.

The food from Las Torres (previously known as Fantastico Sur) is much better than Vertigo Patagonia too, so I would recommend this instead of eating in the big canteen at Paine Grande.

Los Cuernos now offers camping sites without full board (previously you had to pay for full board at this campsite).

This means that for $25 USD per person you can pitch up your own tent here. They also offer half-board options priced at $62 USD per person, which include dinner and breakfast.

Book full board and a tent or bed at each campsite

You can rent gear and get food at all campgrounds, so if you don’t want to carry anything, then you can also book this way!

Bear in mind that full board at Los Cuernos comes in at $158 USD per person for a fully-equipped tent and full board – so it certainly won’t come cheap!

Did you find this guide to the Torres del Paine W hike useful? Pin it!

Helen Turner

Sunday 4th of February 2024

Excellent article. Plenty of food for thought. Thankyou

Steph Dyson

Friday 9th of February 2024

Thanks Helen! Steph

Sunday 26th of November 2023

We were hoping to hike to Refugio Grey, then take the Navigation boat toward Hotel Grey, then take a shuttle to our car at Pudeto. But I'm not sure how the timing works out. If we take the 14:00 navigation from Refugio Grey, is there time to make the last shuttle from Hotel Grey?

Tuesday 28th of November 2023

Hi Karen, I'm not sure. You would need to go off the timings on the Hotel Grey website or reach out to them directly. Steph

Jonny Collins

Tuesday 24th of October 2023

Thank you for your brilliant blog posts on all things South America - they're perfect for someone like me that loves knowing the logistics of our upcoming trips! My wife and I were meant to visit Patagonia for the first time in 2020 as part of a wider trip that was cut short due to COVID - we read your blog posts at the time whilst planning. We're finally planning to visit in 2024!

Unfortunately due to work commitments we are not able to take more than two weeks off and it is making our itinerary from the UK quite tight (we want to get to El Calafete and El Chalten in the same trip).

Whilst I appreciate you recommend doing the W Trek in 4 or 5 days, we are considering doing it in 3 days (we are experienced hikers and have done multi day hikes before). We had always planned hiking West to East. For the most even split on distance it seems that staying at Paine Grande and Los Cuernos would work best. We're really keen to see the towers at sunrise but appreciate that staying at Paine Grande and Torre Norte to do this would result in a very big second day. We have thought of two alternatives:

Option 1 (West to East): Night 1: Campo Italiano Night 2: Torre Norte

Option 2 (East to West): Night 1: Refugio Chileno Night 2: Campo Italiano

We've not considered yet if these options work with bus and ferry timetables. Do you think either of the above options are feasible to do the hike in 3 days and get to see the towers at sunrise? If not is there an alternative that might work, or if we do the trek in 3 days do we need to accept that we would not be able to see the towers at sunrise?

Any advice on the 'best' way to do the W trek in 3 days would be much appreciated. Apologies if anyone has asked this before! Thanks in advance :)

Sunday 28th of January 2024

Hi Steph, Thank you for your reply. In the end we decided to find an extra day from elsewhere in the trip so that we could do the W Trek and not miss out on anything! Thanks again for your help and for keeping this brilliant blog post up to date!

Thursday 23rd of November 2023

Hi Jonny, Italiano isn't open any more unfortunately. I would recommend just doing day hikes rather than the W. That way, you can actually enjoy your day hikes and not worrying about trying to cover the ground quickly. Steph

Tuesday 10th of October 2023

Great post, thank you! A group of five of us is heading to TDP to do the W-trek in January 2024. Very excited! We're flying from Santiago (SCL); is Puerto Natales a great option to fly into? I heard the drive to TDP from P. Natales is shorter than when coming from P. Arenas? It seems SKY airline has some flights during our time frame. Any great spot to hang out or visit at in P. Natales?

Hi LuAnn, yes you can fly directly into Puerto Natales. Steph

Wednesday 22nd of March 2023

Hi Steph! Can you please provide link where it is stated that a guide is required for hiking in May in Torres del Paine? I had not come across this requirement yet. Thank you!

Thursday 23rd of March 2023

Hi Megan, it's something I was told in a conversation with CONAF, the national parks office. You can reach out to them https://www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-torres-del-paine/ Steph

Solo Hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine: A Comprehensive Guide to Trekking without a Guide in Chilean Patagonia

Are you ready to embark on an epic solo hiking adventure? Look no further than the W Trek in Torres Del Paine, Chile. This comprehensive guide will equip you with everything you need to conquer the one of the best hikes in Patagonia . Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or new to the trail, we’ll ensure you have all the information you need for solo hiking the W Trek. From crafting your perfect itinerary to packing the essentials and navigating the logistics, let’s prepare you for the journey of a lifetime.

This article contains affiliate links from the Amazon Associate and Travelpayouts programs. Wild Travel Tales will earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you .

Key Takeaways

• Day 1: Puerto Natales to Grey (bus, ferry, 11km walk)
• Day 2: Grey to Paine Grande (11km), plus optional glacier hike
• Day 3: Paine Grande to Francés/Los Cuernos (21km)
• Day 4: Francés/Los Cuernos to El Chileno/Central (18km)
• Day 5: El Chileno/Central to Mirador Las Torres to Puerto Natales (9km)

Checklist to Hike the W Trek without a Guide

This post explains everything you need to do to plan your W Trek adventure in detail. Before we get started, here is a simple checklist you will need to check-off.

• Book your accommodation via Torres Hike , or directly via Vertice and Las Torres – you need to book as early as possible, as it it can book out!
• Book your entrance ticket to Torres del Paine National Park online
• Pack proper equipment and food
• Book your return bus ticket from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park
• Ensure you have at least $28,000 pesos in cash ($25,000 pesos for the ferry, $3,000 pesos for the shuttle bus) as well as extra for any additional purchases you may want to make while in the park (e.g., snacks, drinks, meals, etc) – you should definitely bring extra money, just in case!

Where is the W Trek Located?

The famous W Trek is located in Torres Del Paine National Park, nestled in the southern reaches of Chilean Patagonia. This UNESCO Biosphere Reserve boasts pristine landscapes, dramatic peaks, and crystal-clear lakes, making it a dream destination for adventurers like you. The name “W Trek” originates from the distinct W-shaped path you’ll follow through the park, which offers a curated experience of Patagonia’s finest offerings.

When is the Best Time to Do the W Trek?

Planning your visit to Torres Del Paine is a crucial first step. While the park is open year-round, selecting the best time to hike the W Trek can greatly impact your experience. This will mostly come down to your preferences and desired experience.

Here’s a breakdown of your options:

• Shoulder Seasons: For milder weather and fewer crowds, consider hiking during late October to early November or late March to early April.
• Peak Season: If you crave the vibrant colours of Patagonian spring or the lushness of summer, be prepared for larger crowds during the peak season from November to March.

Where to Stay on the W Trek?

The W Trek offers a range of accommodation options to suit various preferences and budgets:

• Camping: Experience the wild by camping under the stars. This is a budget-friendly option for adventurous backpackers.
• Refugios: For a more comfortable stay, opt for refugios, which are similar to hostels. They offer a warm and cozy atmosphere after a long day of hiking and often provide shared facilities.

Camping vs Refugios on the W Trek

For those with an adventurous spirit and a desire to be as close to nature as possible, camping is an excellent choice. It is also substantially cheaper than staying in a refugio, which is a great way to bring down the cost of hiking the W Trek.

Many campsites are strategically located right outside the doors of refugios, granting you easy access to their facilities. This means you can enjoy the perks of refugios, such as meals and hot showers, while still savouring the authenticity of sleeping under Patagonia’s star-studded skies. It’s worth noting that you’ll need to carry your camping gear, including a suitable tent, sleeping bag, and cooking equipment, to ensure a comfortable stay. However, there are premium campsite options available with a pre-erected tent provided!

On the other hand, if you prefer a bit more comfort and convenience, the refugios are ready to welcome you. These cozy mountain lodges provide dormitory-style accommodation and shared facilities, including dining areas and hot showers. Staying in a refugio means you don’t have to lug heavy camping gear with you, allowing for a lighter backpack. However, it will make hiking the W Trek more expensive.

Booking Campsites & Refugios for the W Trek

As one of Patagonia’s most sought-after hikes, it can be difficult to secure campsites or refugio beds for the days you want. It is essential that you book your accommodation in advance (as early as possible), especially during the peak season. It is not uncommon for campsites and refugios to book out. 

The campsites and refugios at different points along the W Trek are operated by two different companies, Vertice and Las Torres (formerly Fantastico Sur) . You have two different options to book these sites:

• Book via Torres Hike , a platform which aggregates availability from both Vertice and Las Torres. All you need to do is enter your planned dates, the direction of your hike and which type of accommodation you want, and the website will allow you to make one single booking (instead of coordinating separate bookings via both Vertice and Las Torres). This will save you lots of time compared to the second option…
• Make reservations with Vertice and Las Torres directly, via their websites. This option requires you to ensure the availability of campsites offered by both providers aligns with your planned itinerary in the correct order of your hike, then booking each night of accommodation on each company’s separate website. Meticulous planning is necessary.

Why would anyone book through separate websites when it is all collated in one platform via Torres Hike? Good question. Unfortunately, Vertice and Las Torres only allocate a limited number of campsites for purchase via Torres Hike. And because Torres Hike is a far easier process, these sites will book out more quickly than direct bookings. So, if Torres Hike does not show any availability for the dates you want to hike the W Trek, you may be able to book under your original itinerary if you book via Vertice and Las Torres.

There are often different options you could book for each night, depending on the distance you plan to cover each day. Below are the campgrounds along the W Trek in order.

• Refugio and Camping Paine Grande (Vertice Patagonia)
• Refugio and Camping Grey (Vertice Patagonia)
• Domes and Camping Francés (Las Torres)
• Refugio and Camping Los Cuernos (Las Torres)
• Refugio and Camping Torres Central (Las Torres)
• Refugio and Camping El Chileno (Las Torres)

You will only stay at 3 or 4 of the campsites, depending on how many days you plan in your itinerary. Plan ahead, consider your preferences for camping or staying in refugios, and make those reservations promptly to guarantee a smooth and enjoyable W Trek experience.

How Difficult is the W Trek?

The difficulty of the W Trek can vary along its route. Understanding its challenges is paramount for a successful journey. Here’s an in-depth look at what you can anticipate.

Physical Fitness: The W Trek is considered moderately strenuous, making it accessible to hikers with a range of fitness levels. While it doesn’t require you to be an elite athlete, it’s essential to have a reasonable level of physical fitness. This includes the ability to hike for several hours a day, navigate uneven terrain, and endure uphill climbs and descents. Prior conditioning and cardiovascular endurance can significantly enhance your experience.

Changing Trail Conditions: Patagonia’s weather is notorious for its unpredictability. Be prepared for rapidly changing conditions that can range from sunny and pleasant to windy, rainy, or even snowy. Proper clothing and gear are crucial to adapt to these changes and ensure your safety and comfort.

Route Options: The W Trek offers flexibility in choosing your direction, whether east-to-west or west-to-east, each with its own highlights. Starting from the east provides a dramatic introduction to the famous Torres Del Paine, while the west-to-east route saves the iconic towers for a breathtaking finale. Your choice can influence the level of challenge and the order in which you encounter terrain difficulties.

Mental Preparedness: Apart from physical stamina, mental preparedness is equally vital. The W Trek can be mentally demanding due to its length and the ever-changing Patagonian weather. Staying positive, focused, and patient in adverse conditions or challenging moments will contribute significantly to your overall experience.

Trail Easing Tips: To make your hike more manageable, consider using hiking poles for stability, wear appropriate footwear with ankle support, and break in your hiking boots before the trip. Additionally, packing smartly, including essential items, such as moleskin for blisters, sunscreen, and extra layers, can help ease your journey.

Prepare mentally and physically for the challenges that await you, and you’ll conquer the trek with confidence.

What Should I Pack for the W Trek?

The key to a successful W Trek is packing the right gear. Here’s a list of essentials.

Camping Gear:

• Sleeping bag (rated for 20 degrees or less)
• Sleeping mat
• Gas stove/jet boil
• Gas canister
• Lightweight bowl/plate /utensils
• Travel towel
• Layers are essential. Pack a handful of lightweight shirts/base layers.
• Fleece jacket
• Waterproof jacket
• Waterproof gloves
• Water-resistant pants
• Several pairs of socks
• Hiking boots
• Camp/refugio slippers
• Comfortable camp clothing

Hiking Gear:

• Consider hiking poles for stability
• Moleskin for blisters
• Refillable water bottle
• First-aid kit

With the right gear in your backpack, you’ll be prepared for whatever Patagonia throws your way.

How Long Does it Take to Hike the W Trek?

The W Trek offers flexibility in both duration and direction. You can choose to complete it in 4, 5, or 6 days, depending on your pace and preferences. A fit hiker can complete the route in 4 days with careful planning. Choosing a 5-day itinerary can provide some extra time to explore side trails and enjoy the scenery, without rushing to meet longer distances. If you are new to hiking and want to take it easy, make it a 6-day adventure.

How Do I Get to the W Trek?

The best way to get to Torres del Paine National Park is from Puerto Natales, a charming town that serves as the main entry point to the national park. Wherever you are, you need to get here!

Travellers can now enjoy the convenience of direct flights from Santiago to Puerto Natales, thanks to the Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport (PNT), with a flight duration of approximately 3 hours. After landing, a short 10-minute taxi ride will swiftly transport you from the compact airport to the heart of downtown Natales, where the majority of hotels and accommodations are thoughtfully situated for your ease and comfort.

If you need other options, you can also catch a flight to Punta Arenas and take a bus to Puerto Natale. We recommend booking your bus tickets in advance, especially if you’re aiming for early morning departures, as they can fill up quickly.

Stay overnight in Puerto Natales to rest and prepare for your adventure. The town offers various accommodation options , and it’s an excellent opportunity to stock up on supplies, including any last-minute gear or provisions you might need for your trek. After a peaceful night’s rest and final preparations, you can embark on the short journey from Puerto Natales to the enchanting wilderness of Torres Del Paine National Park, where the W Trek awaits, ready to unveil its natural wonders.

Food & Water for the W Trek

You will be able to buy food and drink at each of the refugios along the W Trek. However, this can get very expensive. We recommend that you try to be fully self-sufficient – and bring some extra cash to treat yourself on difficult days!

Food: You can stock up on food supplies from a supermarket in Puerto Natales, before departing to Torres del Paine National Park. Make sure to take a high-quality gas stove , gas canister, and mess kit .

Water: All campsites have access to fresh water sources to cook and refill your bottles. To avoid waterborne illness, we suggest that you use a water purification filter or water purification tablets before drinking this water.

5-Day Itinerary for Hiking the W Trek without a Guide

You will hike the W Trek one-way – meaning, it’s not a loop! You can choose to trek from either direction, east-to-west or west-to-easy. Each offers its own unique highlights:

• East-to-West: If you start from the east, your journey begins with a dramatic encounter with the famous Torres Del Paine, leaving you with diverse landscapes to explore.
• West-to-East: Opting for this direction allows you to save the magnificent towers for your grand finale while hiking through stunning valleys and forests.

The choice is yours, so customise your adventure to match your desires. The itinerary below is a sample 5-day itinerary for solo hiking the W Trek, from west-to-east. You can follow the plan below in reverse to do the trek from east-to-west, or make amendments to shorten or extend your total hike.

Please note that this itinerary provides an overview of the daily routes, but actual hiking times may vary based on your pace and trail conditions. Additionally, availability at refugios and campsites should be confirmed and booked in advance, especially during the peak trekking season. Enjoy your unforgettable journey through the stunning landscapes of Torres Del Paine!

Day 1 (Puerto Natales –> Refugio Grey)

• Total Kilometers: Approximately 11 km
• Estimated Time: 3-4 hours
• Start Point: Puerto Natales
• Finish Point: Grey

Begin your journey by catching the 7 am bus from Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine National Park. This service will get you to the Leaving early will ensure you have enough time to hike and explore, without stressing about daylight.

Most buses that leave from Puerto Natales will stop: 

• First at Laguna Amarga, where you get off if you plan on hiking the W Trek from east-to-west
• Second at Pudeto, where you get off if you plan on hiking the W Trek from west-to-east

Everyone will get off the bus at Laguna Amarga to show your entrance ticket for the park. You need to book your National Park permit online in advance. It is also advisable to download a copy of your ticket to your phone, as you are unlikely to have cell service in the park. If you are hiking the west-to-east route, you will then get back onto the bus to continue to Pudeto and Lake Pehoé.

When you get off the bus and Pudeto, stroll to the wharf. A catamaran service operated by Hipsur departs Pudeto for Paine Grande, transporting you for 30 minutes across Lake Pehoé to the start of your hike. The service departs at 9:30am, 10:30am, 4:15pm and 6:00pm over December to March. You should check their website for up-to-date operating times. The catamaran costs $25,000 pesos or $30 USD one-way, cash only. Tickets cannot be reserved in advance.

The hike to Grey Lodge is approximately 11 km and offers spectacular views of Lake Pehoé and the surrounding mountains. You’ll pass through enchanting forests and possibly catch a glimpse of local wildlife. Refugio Grey or Camping Grey is your destination for the night, offering stunning lakefront views. You should arrive in the early afternoon, so pitch your tent, meet some other hikers and cook dinner. 

You can also choose to take an optional side trek, by continuing further north past the campsite. An extra 1 km through the forest will bring you to the snout of Grey Glacier, where you will have views of the enormous ice field. A further 2.5km along the path by the edge of the glacier will take you over a series of rope bridges with amazing views. This is about a 1hr round trip.

Day 2 (Grey –> Paine Grande)

• Start Point: Grey
• Finish Point: Paine Grande 

Today, you’ll retrace your steps back to Paine Grande. The trail is mostly flat or downhill, making for a more relaxed walk. Along the way, you can choose to hike to the hanging bridges for an extra adventure. 

Optional Add-On: Grey Glacier Ice Hike

One optional adventure you can undertake on the morning of Day 2 of the W Trek is an ice hike on Grey Glacier . Equipped with crampons and guided by experts, you can venture onto the glacier’s surface, exploring its captivating formations, deep blue crevasses, and surreal ice caves. This excursion provides an up-close encounter with the mesmerising world of glacial ice and a chance to witness the park’s natural wonders from a whole new perspective. It’s an unforgettable addition to your W Trek adventure for those seeking an extra dose of excitement and natural beauty.

Cost: The cost for the ice hike on Grey Glacier can vary, but it’s typically around $150 to $200 USD per person. This fee includes the necessary equipment such as crampons and the guidance of expert glacier guides.

Company: The ice hike on Grey Glacier is organised by Bigfoot Patagonia . This experienced tour provider ensures your safety and provides guidance throughout the excursion.

Duration: The ice hike adventure can take approximately 3 to 4 hours. This allows you to explore the glacier’s stunning features and take in the awe-inspiring surroundings.

Overnight Stay: To partake in the ice hike, it’s recommended to stay overnight at the Grey Lodge or campsite. This is because the ice hike usually takes place early in the morning to ensure the best ice conditions. 

Adding the ice hike to your W Trek itinerary can be a memorable and thrilling way to connect with the glacial beauty of Torres Del Paine National Park.

Day 3 (Paine Grande –> Francés/Los Cuernos)

• Total Kilometers: Approximately 21 km
• Estimated Time: 8-9 hours
• Start Point: Paine Grande 
• Finish Point: Francés or Los Cuernos

This is a challenging day involving significant elevation gain, but it rewards you with some of the trek’s most stunning vistas. The trail takes you through valleys, along the shores of Lake Nordenskjöld to Guardería Italiano. You can leave your bags here with the ranger before hiking into the Francés Valley.

Hiking through the Francés Valley can vary greatly depending on the ever-changing Patagonian weather. This stretch of the hike marks the central segment of the W, and it’s a relentless uphill journey. After an hour of navigating steep and rocky terrain on a sometimes slippery trail, you’ll arrive at Mirador Francés, where you can catch sight of Glaciar Francés clinging to the western mountainside.

For those feeling especially adventurous and blessed with fair weather, there’s the option to continue ascending to Mirador Británico, adding an extra 3.5 kms each way, roughly three hours for the round trip. At Mirador Británico, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of a circle of jagged granite peaks, including the park’s second most famous landmark, the three-horned Cuernos del Paine. This spot ranks among the park’s most breathtaking viewpoints, particularly when the sky is clear. Keep a sharp eye out, as you might even spot the endangered Southern Andean huemul, a rare deer species, in this area.

Thankfully, the return journey is downhill as you make your way back to Campamento Italiano, where you can retrieve your backpack. Continue on for about 30 minutes to stay at Francés. If there is no availability at Francés, you can instead book to stay at Los Cuernos, which is a further 1 hour from Francés.

Day 4 (Francés/Los Cuernos –> El Chileno/Central)

• Total Kilometers: Approximately 15 km
• Estimated Time: 6-7 hours
• Start Point: Francés or Los Cuernos
• Finish Point: El Chileno or Central

The trail from Los Cuernos to El Chileno includes a steady elevation gain throughout the day. You’ll be treated to beautiful river and lake views along the way. As you approach El Chileno, you’ll be surrounded by lush Patagonian forests. Camping and refugio options are available for your overnight stay.

El Chileno is the ideal campsite for Day 4, as it is 4 kms from the Torres del Paine towers. This is important if you want to catch the sunrise at the viewpoint, so you don’t need to wake up so early! If you can’t get a booking at El Chileno, it is possible to hike from Central, but it is an additional 1hr and 45 minutes to reach the towers.

Day 5 (El Chileno/Central –> Torres del Paine –> Puerto Natales)

• Total Kilometers: Approximately 9 km (round trip to Mirador las Torres)
• Estimated Time: 5-6 hours (including time at the viewpoint)
• Start Point: Camping El Chileno or Refugio El Chileno
• Finish Point: Puerto Natales

Rise early to hike the trail to the famous Torres del Paine viewpoint. This is about 4km from El Chileno, meaning you should leave camp about 2hrs before dawn. If you are staying at Central, the hike is about 9km and you should leave camp about 4hrs before sunrise. Make sure you bring a head torch, as the rocky trail will be difficult in the dark. Expect the sun to rise around 7am – but be sure to check with the campground the night before your ascent.

This challenging ascent is rewarded with breathtaking views of the iconic towers. After visiting the towers, descend to Hotel Las Torres. From here, you can take a shuttle bus back to Laguna Amarga for $3,000 pesos, cash only. This is where you get on a bus back to Puerto Natales, completing your W Trek adventure.

How Much Does it Cost to Hike the W Trek Without a Guide?

Before embarking on the W Trek in Torres Del Paine, it’s essential to have a clear understanding of the costs involved. This detailed cost breakdown will help you budget for your adventure effectively:

1. Park Entrance Fee – the park entrance fee for Torres Del Paine National Park varies depending on the season:

• High Season (November to March): Approximately $40 to $50 USD per person.
• Shoulder Season (Late October to early November, late March to early April): Around $20 to $30 USD per person.
• Low Season (April to September): Roughly $10 to $15 USD per person.

2. Transportation:

• Flights: The cost of flights to reach Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport (PNT) in Puerto Natales can vary widely based on your departure location. On average, round-trip flights from Santiago to PNT range from $150 to $300 USD.
• Buses: Bus tickets from Puerto Natales to the park entrance or various points within the park can cost approximately $20 to $50 USD round-trip. You can book tickets from the companies’ offices at the Puerto Natales bus station.
• Pudeto to Paine Grande Ferry: This ferry route is commonly used for the W Trek, and it crosses Lake Pehoé. The cost of the ferry ride can vary, but it was typically around $30 to $40 USD for a one-way ticket. The duration of the ferry ride is relatively short, approximately 30 minutes.

3. Accommodation:

• Camping: Camping fees at the park’s designated campsites typically range from $10 to $20 USD per person per night. These campsites are equipped with facilities such as bathrooms, showers, and cooking areas.
• Refugios: Staying in refugios offers more comfort but comes at a higher cost. The price per night in a refugio can vary between $60 and $150 USD per person, depending on the level of luxury and the time of year. This often includes meals.
• Self-Cooking: If you opt to prepare your meals, you can expect to spend approximately $10 to $20 USD per day on food. This estimate includes purchasing supplies in Puerto Natales before your trek.
• Meals at Refugios: Dining at refugios can be convenient, but it’s also more expensive. An average meal at a refugio restaurant can cost anywhere from $15 to $30 USD. Keep in mind that some refugio packages include meals.

5. Gear Rental:

• If you need to rent gear such as tents, sleeping bags, or hiking equipment, budget an additional $20 to $40 USD per day, depending on the items you require.

Please note that these cost estimates can vary based on individual preferences, the exchange rate, and any special promotions or discounts available at the time of booking. It’s advisable to check current prices and plan your budget accordingly to ensure a worry-free W Trek experience. Additionally, consider carrying some extra cash for unexpected expenses or emergencies during your journey.

Hiking the W Trek Independently vs With a Guide

Deciding whether to embark on the W Trek independently or with a guide is a significant choice, and it largely depends on your preferences, experience, and what kind of adventure you seek. Below, we delve into the pros and cons of both options to assist you in making an informed decision:

Hiking Independently:

• Flexibility: Independence grants you the freedom to set your pace, choose your daily itinerary, and make spontaneous decisions along the way. You have full control over your adventure.
• Cost-Effective: Independent trekkers often find it more budget-friendly, especially when it comes to accommodations. You can opt for camping and self-cooked meals to save money.
• Personal Connection with Nature: Solitude in the wilderness can provide a deeper connection with the natural surroundings and a more profound sense of adventure.
• Adventure of Self-Reliance: Successfully navigating the W Trek independently can be immensely rewarding, boosting your self-confidence and outdoor skills.
• Logistical Challenges: Planning and booking accommodations, transportation, and permits can be time-consuming and occasionally frustrating, especially during peak seasons.
• Navigation: You must rely on your navigation skills and research to stay on the right path, which can be challenging in the ever-changing Patagonian weather.
• Safety Considerations: Solo travellers should be well-prepared for emergencies and have basic wilderness first aid knowledge.

Hiking the W Trek with a Guide

• Expert Guidance: Guides are experienced and knowledgeable about the trail, local wildlife, and weather patterns. They can enhance your understanding and appreciation of the environment.
• Safety Assurance: With a guide, you have a safety net. They can provide assistance in emergencies, navigation, and first aid.
• Group Camaraderie: Joining a guided tour allows you to meet like-minded adventurers and share the experience, making it a social and potentially less solitary journey.
• Simplified Logistics: Many logistical aspects, such as accommodations and permits, are often handled by the guiding company, reducing your planning burden.
• Cost: Guided tours can be more expensive due to the added services and expertise provided.
• Less Independence: Your schedule and daily activities are often predefined, leaving less room for spontaneity.
• Group Dynamics: Group tours may vary in size and composition, and you might not always have full control over the pace or itinerary.

In conclusion, the choice between hiking the W Trek independently or with a guide is a matter of personal preference and what aligns with your goals for the journey. Consider your budget, level of outdoor experience, desire for flexibility, and your comfort with navigating the trail. Both options offer unique advantages, and the W Trek promises an unforgettable adventure, regardless of the path you choose.

Trek Highlights and Scenic Spots

The W Trek in Torres Del Paine National Park is a visual symphony of natural wonders. Each leg of the journey unveils a new chapter in this captivating wilderness narrative. Here, we delve into the breathtaking highlights and scenic spots that await you:

1. Torres Del Paine – The Crown Jewels:

• Iconic Towers: No visit to Torres Del Paine is complete without witnessing the park’s namesake – the monumental Torres Del Paine. These three towering granite peaks, sculpted by the forces of nature, rise majestically against the Patagonian sky. The sight of the Torres, especially during sunrise or sunset, is a moment that etches itself into your memory forever.

2. Spectacular Valleys:

• French Valley (Valle del Francés): This emerald green valley enchants with its hanging glaciers, colossal rock faces, and panoramic vistas. Hiking through the French Valley feels like stepping into a postcard, surrounded by nature’s grandeur from every angle.

3. Lush Forests:

• Patagonian Wilderness: The W Trek meanders through pristine Patagonian forests, where moss-covered trees, vibrant lichens, and unique flora create a rich tapestry of greens. Walking amidst these ancient trees evokes a sense of timelessness.

4. Azure Lakes:

• Lago Pehoé and Lago Nordenskjöld: These crystal-clear lakes reflect the azure sky and surrounding peaks like mirrors. Their beauty is not only in the vibrant blue hues but also in the tranquility they offer. Pause by their shores and feel the serenity wash over you.

5. Glacier Grey:

• Glacial Majesty: Glacier Grey is a spectacle of ice and light. As you approach its shimmering blue face, you’ll be captivated by the sheer size and beauty of this ancient ice giant. The viewpoint offers an up-close encounter with one of Patagonia’s most remarkable glaciers.

6. Flora and Fauna Encounters:

• Wildlife: Keep a watchful eye for the diverse Patagonian wildlife. Guanacos, foxes, condors, and even the elusive puma inhabit these lands. Birdwatchers will be delighted by the variety of avian species that call this region home.

7. Mirador Cuernos:

• Cuernos Lookout: This viewpoint provides a mesmerising panorama of the iconic Cuernos del Paine, the horn-like peaks that define the landscape. It’s a place to pause, take in the surroundings, and appreciate the rugged beauty of Patagonia.

8. Southern Patagonian Ice Field:

• Distant Giants: While not part of the W Trek itself, the view of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from certain points along the trail is awe-inspiring. Witness this vast expanse of ice, where countless glaciers originate, and feel the enormity of the natural forces at play.

The W Trek is a mesmerising journey through a pristine wilderness that will leave you humbled by nature’s artistry. Each of these highlights adds a unique stroke to the masterpiece that is Torres Del Paine National Park. Whether you’re an avid photographer, a nature enthusiast, or simply seeking serenity in the wild, the W Trek has something extraordinary to offer at every turn.

Booking the W Trek and Practical Information

Embarking on the W Trek adventure requires meticulous planning, from securing permits to arranging transportation. Here, we delve into the practical details you need to know to ensure a seamless journey through Torres Del Paine National Park:

1. Permits and Excursions:

• Booking Your Trek: The W Trek is in high demand, especially during the peak season (November to March). You must secure your accommodations and camping permits in advance. Remember that the campsites and refugios are operated by two different companies, Vertice and Fantastico Sur. Each has its own booking system, so it’s crucial to book dates that align with your itinerary. Start the booking process as early as possible, as securing the exact dates you need can be challenging.
• Excursions: If you’re interested in guided excursions or activities within the park, such as glacier hikes or boat trips, it’s advisable to book these in advance as well. This ensures you don’t miss out on the experiences that enhance your W Trek adventure.

2. Timetables for Buses and Park Entrance Tickets:

• Getting to Puerto Natales: To reach the starting point of the W Trek, you’ll likely fly into Santiago and then take a flight to Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport (PNT) in Puerto Natales. A 10-minute taxi ride will transport you from the airport to the downtown area, where most accommodations are situated. It’s recommended to spend a night in Puerto Natales to stock up on supplies before heading to the national park.
• Buses to the Park: From Puerto Natales, you’ll need to take a bus to Torres Del Paine. Various bus companies, such as Buses Fernandez, operate this route. Ensure you purchase your bus tickets in advance, particularly if you plan to catch an early morning departure. Timetables can vary, so check the schedules well in advance to align them with your trekking itinerary.
• Park Entrance Tickets: You’ll need to pay an entrance fee to access Torres Del Paine National Park. These tickets can be purchased at the park entrance or online. Having your entrance tickets ready in advance will save you time and streamline the process when you arrive.

3. Equipment and Supplies:

• Gear Checklist: Ensure you have all the necessary gear for your trek, including camping equipment, clothing layers, hiking boots, and more. Refer to the packing essentials section for a comprehensive checklist to make sure you’re well-prepared.

4. Safety and Emergency Contacts:

• Emergency Preparedness: While the W Trek is a stunning adventure, it’s essential to prioritise safety. Familiarise yourself with emergency contacts and park regulations before setting out. Have a plan for communication and emergency situations.

5. Accommodation Flexibility:

• Last-Minute Options: While booking accommodations in advance is wise, some refugios may have last-minute availability for hikers. Keep this in mind if your plans are flexible, but don’t rely on it entirely, especially during peak seasons.

Navigating the logistics of the W Trek ensures that your adventure unfolds smoothly, allowing you to focus on the awe-inspiring landscapes and experiences that await you. By planning ahead, you’ll maximise your enjoyment and make the most of your journey through the pristine wilderness of Torres Del Paine.

In conclusion, embarking on a solo adventure along the W Trek in Torres Del Paine, Chile, is a remarkable experience that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime. By planning carefully, packing smartly, and embracing the breathtaking beauty of Patagonia, you’ll embark on an unforgettable journey that showcases the very best of nature’s wonders.

To hike the W in Torres del Paine, plan your itinerary, book accommodations, and obtain permits in advance. Start from either the east or west side, following well-marked trails and taking in the breathtaking landscapes along the way.

Yes, you can definitely hike the W Trek without a guide. Many solo hikers and groups explore the trail independently. The trail is well marked and sign-posted the whole route. Just be sure to plan and prepare well, including booking accommodations and permits in advance. If you are new to hiking and camping, consider hiking the W Trek with a guide or group.

No. Camping in Torres del Paine is restricted to designated campgrounds. This means there is no free camping. The purpose is to minimise the environmental impact and reduce the risk of fires, which have previously ravaged significant portions of the park, covering approximately 17,000 hectares (41,000 acres) or 7% of its total area.

The duration of the W Trek can vary depending on your pace and itinerary. On average, hikers complete the W circuit in 4 to 6 days. It’s a flexible trek that allows you to choose your route and pace.

While it’s technically possible to complete the W Trek in 4 days, it would be a very strenuous and rushed experience. Most hikers opt for a 5-day itinerary to fully enjoy the trek and its stunning landscapes. A 4-day trek would require covering significant distances each day.

The difficulty of the W Trek varies, but it’s generally considered a moderate hike. It involves steep ascents and descents, variable weather conditions, and covering significant distances. Being physically prepared and having the right gear is essential.

To start the W Trek, you’ll typically fly to Santiago, then catch a flight to Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres Del Paine National Park. Spend a night in Puerto Natales to stock up on supplies before heading to the park.

Charging facilities are available at some refugios and campsites along the W Trek, but they may be limited. It’s advisable to bring a portable power bank to ensure you can keep your devices charged throughout the trek.

The best months to hike Torres del Paine are during the shoulder seasons of late October to early November and late March to early April. These periods offer milder weather and fewer crowds. However, if you prefer vibrant spring or summer landscapes, consider the peak season from November to March.

Absolutely! The W Trek is worth it for its stunning natural beauty, iconic landmarks like Torres Del Paine, and the sense of adventure it offers. It’s a memorable experience for nature enthusiasts and hikers.

Yes, you can find water sources along the W Trek route. It’s essential to bring a water purification filter or water purification tablets to ensure the water is safe to drink from streams and rivers.

For the W Trek, it’s essential to bring lightweight, high-energy, and non-perishable foods. Consider items like energy bars, nuts, dried fruits, instant oats, pasta, dehydrated meals, and freeze-dried options. Make sure to pack foods that are easy to prepare on camping stoves and provide the necessary nutrition for your journey. Additionally, you can purchase some supplies at refugios along the trail if needed.

While some places in Torres del Paine accept credit cards, it’s advisable to carry some cash. Cash can be useful in case you encounter places that don’t have card payment facilities, or when reception in the park is not working. You will also need cash for the boat from Pudeto to Paine Grande.

Yes. There are well-maintained toilets at each campsite along the W Trek.

Torres del Paine can be relatively expensive due to park entrance fees, accommodation costs (especially in refugios), and dining options. However, there are ways to manage costs, such as camping and preparing your own meals if you’re on a budget.

Some of the best parts of the W Trek include witnessing the iconic Torres Del Paine towers, exploring spectacular valleys, hiking through lush forests, and marveling at crystal-clear lakes that dot the landscape.

Lucas is a travel writer with deep experience exploring South America. He enjoys hiking through mountain ranges, cycling across deserts and paddling down rivers.

Best Food in Puerto Natales: 17 Top Restaurants & Cafes

Ice hiking on grey glacier in patagonia’s torres del paine national park (w trek or o circuit), get our best tips direct to your inbox.

Travel Bugg

Chile’s W Trek: 4-Day Itinerary from West to East

In February 2023, my Swedish hiking partner Kim and I completed Chile’s W Trek in Torres del Paine, National Park— a lifelong dream. In this post, you’ll find a quick overview of the route we took, including how many steps/ miles/ kilometers we logged each day and where we stayed. You can learn more about the logistics of the trip here.

W Trek: Day 1

• Paine Grande to Mirador Lago Grey
• Steps logged: 24,345
• Roughly 11 miles, 18 km

We started our trek early by catching the 7 a.m. bus from Puerto Natales, Chile, to Torres del Paine National Park. The three-hour bus ride was smooth, and we saw guanacos, flamingos and emus along the way.

The bus dropped us off at Pudeto where we hopped on a catamaran that took us to our campsites at Paine Grande. We checked in, left our bags, and headed up to the lookout over Glacier Grey.

The hike was about four hours round trip, not including rest stops and photos ops. We headed back down after nearly getting blown off from the wind and hung out in our campsite with an exceptional view of the mountains.

A group of kind Chilean hikers gave us some hot water for our dinner of noodles since we hadn’t rented a cookstove. We prepped our wraps for the next day and shimmied to classic rock in the communal kitchen with the other hikers. It was a good entry hike before the harder days of Chile’s W Trek.

W Trek: Day 2

• Paine Grande to Camping Francés
• Steps logged: 42,950
• Roughly 20 miles, 32 km

We started the day around 8 a.m. and headed toward Camping Italiano, one of the free camp sites run by the government that’s currently closed.

The hike took around three hours, and we made a new friend (Stine from Denmark) along the way. At Camping Italiano, we ate lunch, left our bags, and then prepared to head up to see Mirador Francés and Mirador Británico.

The hike up to Mirador Francés was a bit more technical than Mirador Lago Grey. When we got there, we debated if we should add on an extra two to three hours by going to Mirador Británico since we still needed hike to our campsite. After talking with some Chilean park workers, we realized we may never be here again, and decided to suck it up and continue.

It was the best decision we could’ve made. We had the Mirador practically to ourselves, stunning 365 views, and perfect weather with zero rain and minimal wind. Going down was another story, and we were both feeling it when we got back to Camping Italiano. (I fell directly on my face, Kim was startled by an overzealous trail runner, but we made it down alive).

We grabbed our larger backpacks and walked the remaining 2 km to our campsite at Camping Francés.

W Trek: Day 3

• Camping Francés to Camping Chileno
• Steps logged: 37,129
• Roughly 17.5 miles, 28 km

I barely took any photos this day because I was becoming too tired to function. Day 3 was sunny and hot, which after all the wind, was a welcome change, although we did get sunburnt.

We passed by Lake Nordenskjöld, and I dipped my toes in the freezing glacial water. On a lookout near the lake, we met a pair of Israeli friends with the same name who were vibing to Tame Impala.

We parted ways at a crossroads, and I got separated from Kim (who is a much faster hiker than me). I ended up hiking alone on an old horse trail for the next hour, fell twice, got covered in mud, dodged a horse carrying supplies up the mountain, started questioning my life choices again, and finally made it to Camping Chileno.

Kim was arriving too (she’d accidentally added an hour and half to her hike by taking the wrong trail), and we checked in, made some wraps, and then went to bed immediately.

We were ready for our last day which would begin with a sunrise hike to see the highlight of the park: Los Torres del Paine.

W Trek: Day 4

• Chileno to Mirador Los Torres to Camping Central
• Steps logged: 35,405
• Roughly 16.5 miles, 26.5 km

I’d been looking forward to this hike for six years, when I first started researching Patagonia. We were lucky to grab a spot at Camping Chileno, which guaranteed us the chance to catch the towers at sunrise. We got up at 3:40 am, strapped on our headlamps and headed up for the final stretch. This route is incredibly steep and it seemed like we would never stop going up.

It’s also rocky and sandy in a lot of places, making it tricky to navigate in the dark. I followed the dim headlamps of the hikers in front of us and the red lighted markers along the trail. In some places, there were no markers, and the path became more of a rock scramble.

I kept checking my watch to see if we would make it before sunrise. I’d given myself two hours (30 minutes more than recommended) but with my fatigue from yesterday and the darkness of the trail, I was cutting it close. Just when I’d given up hope of ever making it up the mountain, I saw the outline of the towers in the distance. I made my way around the final curve and heard Kim calling my name.

We made it just in time to see the first rays of sunlight hitting the stone above a glacial blue lake. Kim and I watched the sunrise, elated that we had finally fulfilled the dream we’d held for so long. We took photos and walked near the lake then began our descent.

On the way down, we ran into Steve, a Dutch-American we had met in Puerto Natales, who was bike-packing his way across the Americas. We made plans to meet up later at Camping Central and headed back to camp.

After breakfast at Camping Chileno and saying hi to Stine who was headed up to Los Torres, we made our way to the last part of the route: Chileno to Central. The end of the W Trek (West to East) was blessedly downhill.

Although I was still practically crawling at the end, we made it to the Welcome Center to wait for our bus which wouldn’t come for another five hours. Steve joined us at the cafe, and we chatted about our lives and had a victory beer and Patagonia coffee. Later, Stine met up with us, and we ate a dinner of empanadas.

Afterward, Kim, Stine, and I grabbed the shuttle bus and then a larger bus back to Puerto Natales. We had completed the W Trek, sore and exhausted, but thrilled to have accomplished our dream.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

Groovy Mashed Potatoes - Travel Blog

Unique travel experiences, fun itineraries & offbeat places to help you plan your dream trip

Self Guided W Trek - The Best W Trek Route and W Trek Itinerary

Hiking the Torres Del Paine W Trek in Patagonia is a bucket list item for many. Doing the W Trek without a guide is the most cost efficient way to trek through the park and it feels very rewarding to do it yourself.

However, sorting out the W Trek was one of the most challenging bookings we have made to this day. Non English websites, sparse accredited blog coverage on routes, and limited availability due to popularity, made for a difficult journey before we even got to the park.

We have put together a clear and concise way to plan and book your self-guided W trek , including the best W Trek route with a map and W Trek itinerary with hiking distances.

Best time to visit Torres Del Paine

You want to have the best chance possible of seeing the towers in clear light. The weather can be treacherous in these mountains, so the best time to hike the W Trek is in the summer months from November to March. During the months outside of summer, most of the services at main lodging companies are closed and the days will also be shorter and cloudier.

How to book refugios and campsites in Torres Del Paine

Torres Del Paine National Park has been split up so you must book your sites with at least two of three companies operating campsites there. The first two companies, Fantasticosur and Vertice , have paid refugios (lodges and campsites) where you can either reserve a spot to pitch your tent, rent a tent, or stay in the lodge.

CONAF on the other hand, is a non-profit organization that offers free camping. The CONAF site at Italiano is extremely basic with no lodge, but hey it's free! Whichever you choose, you'll need to book your accommodation through their online booking systems.

Beautiful and strategic sites like Glacier Grey and Chileno book up fast. Book the refugios as far in advance as you can to ensure you get the sites you want.

Top booking tip:

Bookings for the following year's season open around the middle of May. For example, bookings open in May 2020 for the November 2020 - April 2021 season. Message the companies, Vertice and Fantasticosur, directly in advance and ask if they can email you once reservations open up. We got our emails and booked right away!

Should you travel the W Trek east to west or west to east?

This question left us scratching our heads until we finished our trek. There are pros and cons of each. We hiked the 'W' from the left to the right which starts at Paine Grande and ends at Torres Central, but would actually recommend hiking from east to west , since its pros outweigh the cons and the itinerary works out a bit better.

W Trek Map with our Refugio & Campsite ratings

What we did and why it wasn't as great:

We hiked the W Trek from left to right and stayed 5 nights. We stayed in Glacier Grey, Paine Grande, Cuernos, and Toores Central (2 nights).

Ultimately, the views are better and the itinerary works more nicely hiking the W Trek from right to left.

The drawbacks of our original route:

• On the way to the start of our trek, we almost didn't make the catamaran from Pudeto to Paine Grande due to the long line up of people (it's first come, first served). If we missed it we would have had to either wait 3 hours for the next ferry or hike an additional five hours to the start of our trek at Paine Grande.
• Staying at Torres Central rather than Chileno added an extra 5 km total to our whole trek . It is a 1 km hike from the campsite to the main trail on a gravel road, which is included in the 5km total.  
• Torres Central feels as if you are not actually on the trek. The camp and refugio is located on a road with tour busses and other vehicles driving by. The service was also the worst we experienced out of all refugios.
• We had to spend an additional night in Torres Central so we could avoid rushing our hike up to the towers and back in order to catch the bus.
• The view from Cuernos to Chileno wasn't as nice as the other way around since the sun wasn't in our favour.

The benefits of our original route:

• Saving the crown jewel, the three Torres Del Paine, for last. After the multi-day trek it was satisfying to finish with the a view of the famous centrepiece of the park.
• The first two days of the trek covering the Paine Grande to Glacier Grey then back the next day to Paine Grande are the easiest of the trek. It was nice to warm our muscles up and get used to our packs before the harder hiking days.

Will all of these factors in mind, we came up with the ideal itinerary we would use next time!

The Best W Trek Route

• Day 1: Arrive at Torres Central, hike up to the three Towers and back down to Chileno (13.8km)
• Day 2: Chileno to Cuernos (13km)
• Day 3: Cuernos to Frances Valley and back down to Paine Grande (21.5km)
• Day 4: Paine Grande to Grey (11km)
• Day 5: Grey to Pudeto where you catch your bus back to Puerto Natales (11km)

W Trek Map with Recommended Route

W Trek Itinerary Breakdown

Day 1: puerto natales - las torres hotel - towers lookout - chileno (7 hour hike, 13.8km, 750m ascent, 400m descent).

Highlight: Today you will see the crown jewel of the park, the granite towers!

Your first task is getting to the park entrance (Amarga) from Puerto Natales. After your 2 hour bus ride, pay the park fee (cash only) and then take a shuttle to Los Torres Hotel.

• 🚌 Buy your bus ticket to the park entrance (Amarga) through Busbud .
• 💳 If you want to buy your park pass by credit card, you have to purchase it online at least 24 hours in advance through aspticket.cl .

Congratulations, you made it. Time to start hiking! From Las Torres Hotel to Chileno it's a 5 km hike with a total ascent of 325 m. Careful on your way, there are very high winds as you enter the valley, so hike slowly and crouch down if a gust catches you off step. Drop off your bags/tent in Chileno where you will be staying the night and take some water. It's much easier hiking with just a day pack up to the spectacular granite peaks. From Chileno, the roundtrip distance to the Towers Lookout is 7.8 km.

Read our article on a ll you need to know about the Chileno refugio.

The weather is crazy in this area. We had two snow storms on our way mixed with sunny blue skies. The last half of the hike to the towers is tough and includes scrambling up large rocks. The 90 km/hour winds didn't help! When we reached the top we were sad to see the towers completely covered by cloud and yet another snow storm. However, we waited patiently beside a large rock for 45 minutes and the weather cleared up to perfect sunny blue skies! Seeing Torres Del Paine in real life was breathtaking.

Top Tip: There are weather reports posted at Chileno, so consider staying a bit or heading off right away depending on the hourly cloud cover forecast.

Day 2: Chileno to Cuernos (4 hours, 13km, 125m ascent, 406m descent)

Highlight: Passing the multi coloured lakes and relaxing at the lovely Cuernos camp.

Today you will have spectacular views of the lake as you walk through otherworldly landscapes. The hike is relatively easy with a total descent of 406 meters and a small 125 m ascent in the middle of your hike.

Cuernos was our favourite refugio we stayed at. It didn't feel too busy and we got to pitch our tent on a wooden tent pad overlooking the beautiful lake! It's the perfect place to relax after your long first day.

Read our article on what to know about the Cuernos refugio .

Day 3: Cuernos to Britanico to Paine Grande (10 hours, 21.5 km, 550m ascent, 600m descent)

Highlight: Seeing the very much alive Frances Glacier drop massive chunks of ice with a thunderous roar.  

Today will be your longest hiking day. Once you reach the Italiano campsite, drop your bags off to lessen your load for the return hike to Frances Lookout and Britanico. It was partly cloudy when we hiked, but we were lucky to see Frances Glacier and even see and hear the thunderous roar of ice breaking and falling!

Since the clouds were rolling in we decided to stop at Frances lookout and forgo hiking to Britanico further up the mountain. We heard mixed reviews about Britanico and that it wasn't any more spectacular than the view at Frances Lookout. To shorten your hike, you could opt to stop at Frances Lookout and forgo Britanico. This would take about 5 km and 2.75 hours off your total journey that day. Shortcut!

After picking up your bags from Italiano, it is a 2.5 hour easy hike to Paine Grande with small ups and downs on the way.

Read our article on what to know about the Paine Grande refugio .

Day 4: Paine Grande to Grey Lodge (3.5 hours, 11 km, 200m ascent, 185m descent)

Highlight: You will see views of Grey Lake and small icebergs before the grand finale views of the massive Grey Glacier.

Watch out for the huge gusts of wind coming at you from the front. Once you reach Refugio Grey it's about a 10 minute walk from there to the Grey Glacier lookout point. You don't want to miss it!

Read our article on what to know about the Grey refugio .

Day 5: Grey to Paine Grande (3 hours, 11 km, 185 ascent, 200 m descent) & back to Puerto Natales

Highlight: Today is an easy hiking day with the wind at your back and your last of the trip, so enjoy the views!

It's only 11 km to Paine Grande where you'll catch the catamaran to Pudeto and a bus back to Puerto Natales  (30 minute catamaran & 2 hour bus ride). Hiking this direction is a lot faster and less effort so it's a nice way to end off the trip.

The catamaran is first-come-first-serve so arrive early to ensure you get a seat. The ferry times change depending on the time of year but the last ferry from Paine Grande to Pudeto will take multiple trips to ensure everyone waiting gets across. No stress and you can get yourself a victory cocktail at the Paine Grande refugio while you wait. The catamaran costs 25,000 CLP ($30 USD) one way and you pay for your ticket with cash inside the boat. Once at Pudeto, you'll catch your bus back to Puerto Natales.

Meal options at the refugios and campsites

There are a few options for eating while you're on the trek. You can cook, or you can have the cooking done for you. We found it really nice to come into the big lodges and have a seat out of the rain and wind to a nice warm prepared meal.

Full-board/half-board

At Fantastico and Vertice refugios, there are full-board and half-board options. Full board includes breakfast, dinner and a boxed lunch. There was always enough food to keep us full at every meal.

The lunch bag typically consists of a sandwich, Nature Valley bar, juice box, nuts with dried fruit, chocolate bar and a piece of fruit. Dinners are hearty and come with a big piece of meat. Breakfasts are served with eggs and toast. Make sure to state if you are vegetarian.

Get all the info from our article: W Trek Patagonia Camps Ranked and Rated

You can also buy a la carte meals during lunch and dinner at some refugios. At our favourite Refugio, Los Cuernos, they had lasagna, burgers and even a charcuterie board, so we wished we had just ordered breakfast and lunch from there!

Cook your own food

Most refugios have a kitchen where campers can prepare and cook their own food. The downside is that you'll have to carry the weight of your food on the trek. Most refugios also have a small convenience store where you can purchase extra items along the way, such as soup, Ichiban noodles, cookies, alcoholic beverages, water, crackers, pasta, coffee etc.

If you're going to cook your own food, ensure the refugio you're staying at has a kitchen. Chileno for example does not have a kitchen.

Most lodges take credit card for snacks, food and drinks, however sometimes the credit machine is down so it is better to have a some Chilean Pesos with you.

Bring snacks!

Even if you're not cooking your own food, grab some snacks at the grocery store before your hike while it's cheap. We brought almonds, dried fruit, dark chocolate, and gummy worms. Check out Supermercado Unimarc in Puerto Natales. There is a dried goods stand at the front door. Full board won't leave you hungry, but it's nice to have a few snacks of choice to lift your spirits during a hard hiking day.

W Trek Packing List

Here is our list of what to pack for the W Trek. This is what we brought with us on our multi-day hike. Each item that is linked, is what we own and highly recommend. We have used them over the years for numerous hikes and camping trips around the world (Nepal, Peru etc.).

Note: we ate half board/full board at the lodges, so this packing list does not include gear to make your own food.

Top Tip: You won't need a pack cover we were told and saw first hand these things just act like parachutes on the windy sections of the trail. Garbage bag your goods or use dry bags instead.

What you can rent for the W Trek

You can rent a one or two person tent, sleeping mattress, hiking poles, sleeping bag, and hiking shoes (although we recommend bringing your own shoes to avoid blisters!).

Erratic Rock doesn't take advanced reservations and has become very popular, so don't count on getting your gear the night before your trek like we did. We ran over to Rental Natales and luckily found a two-person tent that had just arrived. Rentals Natales has online reservations and they wash their sleeping bags after every use.

Pre-trek prep in Puerto Natales

Where to stay in Puerto Natales before your trek

Pre-trek preparation checklist.

• Grab your rentals the day before you leave on your trek
• Purchase your bus ticket in advance to ensure you get an early departure time. You can reserve your ticket online through Busbud .
• Grab snacks beforehand at a grocery store, such as almonds, dried fruit, dark chocolate, candies, and a roll of toilet paper.
• Pull out cash for catamaran, Torres Del Paine Park fee, and any extra goodies you wish to buy at the camping lodges. There are reliable ATMs in Puerto Natales to pull out cash. Most lodges take credit card for snacks, food, and drinks, but cash is needed for the catamaran and park fee.

Getting to Torres Del Paine National Park

Getting from the Puerto Natales airport to Puerto Natales

A taxi from Puerto Natales airport to Puerto Natales is a flat rate of 7000 CLP for the whole car, not per person. The drive is about 10 minutes.

Taking the bus from Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine National Park

Arrive at least 15 minutes early for your bus at 7 AM from Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine. Some people didn't get on and had to wait for the 11 AM bus. It's better to get to the park early and is a must for this itinerary.

The bus first stops at Amarga where everyone gets off to purchase their park pass (cash only). Those going further to Pudeto to catch the catamaran to Paine Grande will need to get back on the same bus. The drive is 30 more minutes to Pudeto. Those headed to Las Torres Hotel catch another 15 minute shuttle bus.

Top Tip: Sit on the front left side of bus from Puerto Natales to Amarga for the best views. Sitting at the front also ensures you're first in line to get your park pass and you can quickly hop on the shuttle.

Start planning your trip to Torres Del Paine National Park

• 💡 Travel tips: see our top 17 tips for the W Trek
• ⛺ Refugios/Campsites: see how we ranked and rated the W Trek refugios & campsites
• 🌃 Book your stay in Puerto Natales: Booking.com is our go-to for finding places to stay. Sort by top reviewed.
• 🥾 Rent your gear: we rented our camping gear from Rental Natales
• 🚌 Buy your bus ticket to the park: book in advance through Busbud .
• 🛫 Book your flight to Puerto Natales: use Skyscanner to compare flights across different airlines (we recommend booking direct with the airline however).

Check out what the W Trek was like in our Chile vlog

Save and pin this self-guided W Trek itinerary for later:

Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out our list of fun adventure ideas for your next trip .

Featured Posts

Ultimate 1 week vancouver and victoria itinerary.

Living in BC for 10 years, we've spent a lot of time in both Vancouver and Victoria and have discovered many unique things to do in both cities. Our 1 week Vancouver and Victoria itinerary includes local hot spots, jaw-dropping sights and fun experiences that are worth the hype.

2 Day Vancouver Itinerary for the Best Food & Scenery

Experience the best of the city's food scene, nature and West Coast culture in our 2 Day Vancouver Itinerary. This travel guide was created for those who are short on time and want to see the highlights.

3 Day Victoria, BC Itinerary for Fun and Relaxation

Our 3 Day Victoria, BC itinerary is meant for long weekend getaways and combines relaxing activities with fun experiences that are unique to the city. We include impressive places to stay, tucked away restaurants, local hot spots and cool neighbourhoods to explore.

Search Groovy Mashed Potatoes - Travel Blog

[email protected]

+1 206-892-8877

Send us a message, w trek - self guided 5 days: west to east, 5 day trek in patagonia, chile.

Experience the exhilarating 5-day Self Guided version of the W trek (this itinerary runs West to East along the park trail), guiding you through trails that unveil glaciers, lakes, forests, and the iconic Paine Towers, fulfilling every trekker's craving for adventure. Named after the perfect W shape formed by the convergence of paths encircling the southern sector of the Macizo del Paine, this trek offers an unforgettable journey. The W Circuit highlights include Base Torres, Francés Valley, and Grey Glacier. *Refugios: These cozy rustic lodges in the park offer shared bunk (dorm-style) accommodation, with 4-6 bunks per room, and include bedding and meals. Departures available daily (subject to availability).

What is a self guided trek?

Our self-guided treks in Torres del Paine provide not only independence and convenience but also the opportunity to connect with fellow adventurers. You'll encounter many others embarking on the same journey, sharing experiences and camaraderie along the way. While we handle the logistics - from transportation to accommodation and meals - you'll enjoy the freedom to explore the well-marked trails at your own pace, surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of the park. Lace up your boots and join the community of explorers on this unforgettable adventure!

OVERVIEW: West to East W Trek Itinerary ‍ Day 1: Arrival to Torres del Paine National Park - Trek from Paine Grande to Grey

Day 2: Trek Grey to Paine Grande

Day 3: Trek from Paine Grande to the French Valley

Day 4: Trek from Los Cuernos / Francés to Torres Central

Day 5: Trek to the Base of the Towers – Return to Puerto Natales

*Refugios: Rustic Lodges in the park with shared bunk (dorm style accommodation), 4-6 bunks per room. All bedding and meals included.

*Camping: All gear is included (sleeping bag, tents, sleeping pad) and setup each night prior to your arrival (you will not carry camping gear from site to site).

Departures: All Days (Dependent on Availability)

Trip Itinerary

Day 1: arrival at torres del paine national park – trek from paine grande to grey.

After breakfast at the hotel, head to the bus terminal to catch the 7:00 am bus. We recommend arriving at least 10 minutes before departure. The bus ride offers scenic views as you travel toward Torres del Paine National Park. Upon reaching Pudeto, board the catamaran that will take you to Paine Grande.

The hike begins through a narrow and winding valley leading to Los Patos Lagoon. As you progress, you will start to see parts of the vast Southern Ice Field and the ice floes of Grey Lake. After passing the sometimes very windy viewpoint, the path descends through a mountainous forest until you reach the Grey Refuge. From here, if you continue for about 10 minutes, you will arrive at the Grey Glacier lookout, where you will be face to face with this massive blue ice formation.

• ‍ Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles) ‍
• Hiking Time: 4–4.5 hours
• ‍ Level of Difficulty: Medium
• ‍ Accommodation: Grey Refuge (full bed) or camping
• ‍ Meals: Box lunch and dinner

Enjoy breakfast in the dining room of the refuge and don't forget to ask for your box lunch. If you didn't have a chance to visit the hanging bridges the previous afternoon, you can use the morning to explore the spectacular panoramic views of the Grey Glacier. Today, you'll follow the same path as yesterday to return to Paine Grande Refuge. Rest and enjoy dinner in the dining room of the refuge.

• Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles)
• ‍ Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, and dinner
• ‍ Accommodation: Paine Grande Refuge (full bed) or camping

Optional: Panoramic View of Grey Glacier

For an unforgettable panoramic view of Grey Glacier, set off on an extra 3-4 hour round trip past the refuge toward the famous hanging bridges. This area offers the best lookout of the glacier. In addition to observing the impressive ice, you can see the depth of the ravine formed by rivers and waterfalls from the Olguín Range. If you're lucky, you might witness ice calving into the deep, freezing waters of Grey Lake.

Distance: 4 km (2.5 miles) Time: 3–4 hours (round trip) Level of Difficulty: Medium

Day 3: Trek from Paine Grande to French Valley

Today's trek takes you to the heart of the park, skirting the blue waters of Skottsberg Lake. After approximately 2.5 hours of walking, you will reach the Italiano Camp (park rangers), where your journey to the French Valley begins. Climb large rocks and continue through the forest until you reach the French Plateau. Here, you will be rewarded with incredible views of Los Cuernos, turquoise glacial lagoons, and astonishing hanging glaciers that tumble down the east face of Paine Grande Mountain (3,050 m.a.s.l.). If you're lucky, you might hear the loud noise of the glacier and falling water, and it is very common to witness an avalanche. Enjoy your box lunch and a well-deserved rest. Then, continue your walk to Los Cuernos or Francés Refuge, where you will have dinner and rest.

• Distance: 17 or 19 km (10.5 or 11.8 miles), depending on accommodation
• ‍ Time: 6–8 hours, depending on the starting point
• ‍ Level of Difficulty: Medium to high
• ‍ Accommodation: Refuge (simple bed) or camping

Day 4: Trek from Los Cuernos or Francés to Central

Enjoy your breakfast and request your box lunch. During today's hike, you will pass through beautiful crystalline streams and admire the hanging glaciers from Almirante Nieto Mount at 2,670 meters. You may also see majestic condors gliding overhead and follow the fascinating waters of Nordenskjöld Lake. Continue along the trail until you reach Torre Central Refuge, where you can relax and enjoy dinner.

• ‍ Distance: 12 or 15 km (7.5 or 9.3 miles), depending on accommodation ‍
• Hiking Time: 4–5 hours

Day 5: Trek to the Base of the Towers and Return to Puerto Natales

After breakfast at the refuge, request your box lunch and prepare for the adventure ahead! Today's hike begins through the Ascencio Valley, where you will enjoy its extensive forests. During the final ascent, you will traverse an immense field of giant rocks until you reach one of the most iconic viewpoints in the world, the famous Base of the Towers lookout. At an altitude of 900 meters above sea level, marvel at the three granite towers (North, Central, and South) and the sparkling turquoise glacial lake at their base. Take some stunning photos and enjoy your box lunch before following the same path back to the Torre Central Refuge.

Upon arrival, take the "Las Torres" shuttle at 7:00 pm from the Visitor’s Center to Laguna Amarga, and then the regular bus at 7:45 pm back to Puerto Natales. The estimated arrival time in Puerto Natales is 9:30 pm.

• ‍ Distance: 22 km (13.7 miles) ‍
• Hiking Time: 8–10 hours
• ‍ Level of Difficulty: High
• ‍ Meals: Breakfast and box lunch

Additional Trip Info

• Camping and / or refuge accommodations according to your itinerary.
• Refugio Program: Lodge accommodations are in shared and mixed dorms, with bunkbeds. *Full bed in Grey and Paine Grande refuges includes sheets, cover and pillow. *Simple bed in Central and Frances refuges includes a sleeping bag and pillow.
• Camping Program: accommodations in Grey and Paine Grande include an already-pitched tent, sleeping bag, liner and mat.
• Camping Program: accommodations Central and Frances include: tent is elevated from the ground at a height of 5.2 ft, sleeping bag, high-density foam mat, pillow
• Welcome drink voucher.
• Bus transportation to and from the park + shuttle bus ticket to the Visitor’s Center.
• All Meals - Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner, according to your itinerary.
• If you have any dietary restrictions, make sure to inform us upon reservation. Food restrictions will only be honored if they are informed in advance.
• Catamarán ticket.
• Entrance ticket to Torres del Paine National Park.
• Guide/Porter services (additional cost)
• Any service not specified in the program
• Travel Insurance - We recommend   World Nomads , or Global Rescue

Packing List for the W Trek can be found on our Blog here .

See our W trek Self Guided FAQ in our blog here

Have Questions?

Related trips, w trek - torres del paine (camping - self guided), highlights of the chilean patagonia - 9 days, ecodome - torres del paine w trek, patagonia - 5 days, best of el chaltén - 4 days, o circuit patagonia - 8 days, best of argentina - 11 days, related blog posts, interested in building a custom trip we want to help you travel to places you have dreamt about..

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia: Full Itinerary, How to Self Book, Cost Breakdown & More!

March 28, 2023.

Hiking the W Trek in Torres Del Paine National Park is an incredible experience that will reward you with endless views and memories that will last a lifetime. You will see jagged mountain peaks, aqua blue lakes, waterfalls, glaciers and more as you take the journey. If you’re lucky, you’ll also see giant condor birds and make new friends as you stay at the inns along the way.

I found the W Trek to be incredibly rewarding and definitely worth the effort, planning and costs. The trek is also perfect for those who are newer to backpacking but are experienced day hikers. Trekking during the day with inns to stay overnight is the perfect combination!

This blog includes a W Trek itinerary and covers everything you need to know to book the W Trek self guided, pack for the W Trek and be prepared. This is based on my experience visiting over New Year’s in December 2022 and January 2023.

Table of Contents

Overview of the w trek, when to hike the w trek, hiking the w trek self guided vs with a guide, how to book the lodging for the w trek, booking an entry ticket to torres del paine national park, booking transportation between puerto natales and torres del paine national park, w trek planning checklist (for self booking), tips and important things to know before hiking the w trek, day one of the w trek, day two of the w trek, day three of the w trek, day four of the w trek, how should you end the w trek, ways to save money on the w trek, what to pack for the w trek, other ways to see torres del paine national park, faqs about the w trek, final thoughts.

• Located in Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile
• 50 miles/80 km
• Typically done in 4 Nights, 5 Days
• The highest elevation is at the Base of Towers, 2,788 feet above sea level

The W Trek refers to a multi-day hike that is shaped like the letter W. This area is unique because there are several inns along the trek where you can spend the night. You can choose between hostel-style lodging, have them provide you a tent at the campgrounds or bring your own tent. Each inn serves food, has restrooms and showers and even offers wifi for an additional fee.

The W Trek is about 50 miles and is typically done in 5 days and 4 nights. There are very few technically challenging sections of the trail, but there are long days with steep climbs. If you have experience hiking 10+ miles in a day in mountainous areas and feel that you can do that for a few days in a row, then you will be set up for success.

Because of the amenities offered, this is a great trip to do if you’re new to backpacking or if you just prefer to stay in a bed instead of a tent. If you stay in the refugios and purchase their full room and board package, you will not have to carry all of your food, water and sleeping equipment. The lighter you can pack for the trek, the more comfortable you’ll be.

While the hike itself is not overly difficult, dealing with the unpredictable weather is the toughest part. I experienced really high winds during my trek. Bad wind is common and it’s not uncommon to experience heavy rain, fog or even snow. You’ll want to make sure you’re prepared with the good layers and keep your expectations low in case it’s too foggy to see some of the best views along the trail.

For a shorter version of this blog, check out my top 30 tips for hiking the W trek!

You will most likely hike the W Trek in the summertime for the Southern Hemisphere (winter in the Northern Hemisphere). The W Trek is typically open to hiking self-guided from October to the end of April, and you’ll likely have the best weather from November to March. I hiked the trek over New Years (December and January), which was really special!

If you would like to hike in the park during the winter months, you can do so with a guide.

There are several companies that offer guides if you’re not comfortable hiking the W Trek on your own. This can be a great option for some!

However, I think a guide is unnecessary, as the trail is well marked and easy to follow. It all depends on your comfort level, abilities and budget.

If you are looking for a guide, some companies that offer services include Swoop Patagonia, Tangol Tours, Chile Nativo and many more.

How to Self Book the W Trek

Many people assume you have to go through a third party company to book the W Trek. A third party would certainly be a little bit easier, but if you prefer to do it all yourself, I’m going to tell you exactly how!

Two separate companies own the various lodges in Torres Del Paine National Park: Vertice Travel and Las Torres Patagonia (previously called Fantastico Sur).

For this itinerary, you will book with Las Torres Patagonia for the first two nights at Los Cuernos and El Chileno, and Vertice Travel for the second two nights at Paine Grande and Refugio Grey.

You can book directly with each company on their websites.

To book El Chileno and Los Cuernos, start on the Las Torres website . Choose to book the ‘shelters’ and then make reservations at the Central Refuge and the Chilean Refuge. Upon booking, you can select to add on full room and board (breakfast, packed lunch and dinner) or any combination of only dinners, only breakfast, etc.

To book Paine Grande and Refuio Gray, start on the Vertice Travel website. Under accommodations, make reservations at ‘Refuge & Camping Paine Grande’ and ‘Shelter & Camping Gray.’ When you book, you will select that you’re doing the W Circuit and be able to book both lodges at once, along with the full room and board.

If you have any dietary restrictions, be sure to request that when booking. If you don’t see the option, send an email to their customer service to confirm. I am a vegetarian and all of the inns were very accommodating!

I booked my trip for December/January in May and June. In 2022, the reservations for Las Torres went on sale well before the reservations for Vertice Travel. So, I booked half of the trek and then waited until the Vertice released their openings. Keep an eye on their social media platforms and/or send an email to their customer service to stay up to date.

After your lodging and transportation is squared away, it is very important to book an entry ticket into the national park. I did this a week or two ahead of time.

To buy your ticket, go to aspticket.cl and select ‘buy or reserve.’ You will then select the correct park, which is listed as ‘Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Venta)’ in Spanish. From there, you will input your entry and exit dates in and out of the park.

You will then need to fill out a variety of information, such as your birthdate and passport number, where you are staying each night of the trek, if you are traveling with a guide and more.

When you complete the form, you will pay the fee ($49 USD per person at this writing) and receive an email with a QR code. Make sure you have this QR code saved offline (and/or printed) for when you arrive at the park! The rangers will scan it upon arrival and there is not reliable cell reception.

The cheapest and easiest way to get between Puerto Natales and Torres Del Paine National Park is by bus! There are a few different bus companies that run multiple daily trips between the city and the park.

I booked my tickets a week or two in advance with Bus-Sur, and I used busbud.com for easy booking. For the beginning of the trek, I recommend leaving Puerto Natales as early as you can (mine left at 6:45AM).

Keep in mind that you will be starting and ending at different places inside the national park.

For the beginning of the W Trek, book a ticket from Puerto Natales (Rodoviario) to Terminal Laguna Amarga . For the ending of the W Trek, book a ticket from Pudeto (Catamaran Paine Grande) to Puerto Natales (Rodoviario). I recommend an afternoon or evening time for the end of the trek, my bus left Pudeto at 2PM.

The bus rides will take about two hours and there are some great views along the way. Be sure to print out your bus tickets ahead of time and arrive a little early.

If you’re booking everything yourself, here is a quick checklist to make sure you have everything you need before setting out!

• Los Cuernos
• Paine Grande
• Refugio Grey
• National Park Entrance Ticket
• A morning ride from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga to start the trek
• An afternoon or evening ride from Pudeto to Puerto Natales to end the trek
• (Optional) A glacier trek or glacier kayaking from Refugio Grey (book with Bigfoot Patagonia)
• (Optional) The catamaran ride on Grey Lake

• Expect all kinds of weather, especially high winds. Wind is very common in the area and can be really intense. Also know that it’s possible fog will sock in some of the most epic views. Keep your expectations low just in case.
• You can drop off your heaviest gear at parts of the trail! Bring a day pack and drop your packs at El Chileno and Camp Italiano before ascending up the most difficult parts of the trail.
• The towers will be crowded but the rest of the trails won't be. But overall, the W trek is not the best for solitude and you will often see other people around. It’s a good social hike because you can meet people every night at the inns.
• The elevation of this region is relatively low (2,788 feet is the highest point on the W Trek), so you shouldn’t have an issue adjusting to the altitude.
• Each inn on the trek has drinking water, food and alcohol for sale, plus wifi for purchase and more. You will not exactly be roughing it on this journey! That being said, you should bring a water filter just in case you’re sensitive to the water or want to make sure you can fill up at streams on the way.
• Download the map of the trail on All Trails to follow along with your progress throughout the trail.

For a full list of tips for hiking the W Trek, check out my top 30 W Trek tips !

W Trek Itinerary: East to West

I hiked the W Trek from East to West. You can also hike it in the opposite direction, but hiking it east to west tends to be more common. I liked hiking it from east to west because I got the most difficult portions out of the way early. It was also fun to end the trek with a gorgeous catamaran ride across Lake Pehoe!

Below is my full itinerary for hiking the W Circuit! I hiked 50 miles over 4 nights and 5 days total.

• Take the bus from Puerto Natales, hike to the Base of the Towers, stay at El Chileno
• 9.9 miles, 3,000 feet of elevation gain

The best way to get to Torres Del Paine National Park is by taking a bus from Puerto Natales. The bus ride will take about 2 hours to reach the main entrance of the park (Laguna Amarga), which is where you’ll be exiting the bus for this itinerary.

When you arrive, you will need to exit the bus and have a ranger scan your entry ticket. You should have your ticket saved offline ahead of time and ready to show from your phone.

There was a bit of a language barrier for us here, as none of the instructions were given in English. How it worked was that everyone got off to get their ticket scanned here, whether you were getting off here or not. After they scanned our tickets, we went back to the bus to collect our backpacks.

From there, you will take a smaller shuttle bus to get to the start of the W Trek. This bus costs an extra fee of 4000 Chilean pesos per person in cash. It was a quick, 10 minute bus ride to reach the Torres Del Paine Welcome Center, where you will officially begin your trek! The welcome center has packed lunches, hiking poles and other items if you have forgotten something.

I calculated the day one milage to be 9.9 miles with just over 3000 feet of elevation gain. In terms of steepness, it was definitely the hardest day of the trek for me.

As you begin the trail, you’ll start with a short and flat walk back to Hotel Las Torres Patagonia. This is where most people stay to do a day hike up the Towers, and some people stay here for the first night of the W trek. It’s an option, but I definitely recommend staying in El Chileno instead if possible!

The trail is flat at first but you will quickly begin to gain elevation. A little under 2 miles from Hotel Las Torres, you’ll come to the first fork in the trail. Stay to the right as you continue up into the Windy Pass.

This portion of the trail gets a bit steep and there is a chance you’ll experience high winds. Luckily, there are some amazing views whenever you stop to take a break. Two miles from the hotel, you’ll reach a high point and then need to descend to reach El Chileno. El Chileno is located right next to the river and the perfect place to stop for lunch.

You can use the cubbies inside of El Chileno to drop off your heaviest gear before continuing up to the Towers. Depending on the time of day, I don’t recommend spending too long on a break at El Chileno. At some point in the afternoon, the park rangers will stop letting anyone hike up to the Towers, so be sure to stay on schedule.

Since you will be staying at El Chileno tonight, go ahead and check in when you pass through. Your room will probably not be ready, but you can let them know you're there and be assigned a time for dinner.

The hike to the Towers gets quite steep for the last 0.7 miles. There is a bit of rock scrambling and a lot of dusty areas if conditions are dry. Be sure to watch your step and take your time. This is also a popular day hike so you’ll likely encounter crowds and need to spend a lot of time stepping aside for other hikers.

But the crowds and steep scrambling are worth it. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible view face to face with Lago Torres and the three Towers. The towers; Torres d'Agostini, Torres Central and Torres Monzino, are the most iconic sight in Torres Del Paine National Park, and certainly could be considered among the best views in the world. On a clear day, the towers stand tall as a backdrop to the bright turquoise lake below.

After enjoying the towers, make your way down to El Chileno for your first dinner of the trek. While El Chileno had my least favorite food of the W trek inns, I loved the atmosphere. Before or after dinner, you can hang out outside where there are picnic tables overlooking the river. Dinner at El Chileno is served at long tables and offers a great chance to get to know fellow hikers.

The rooms inside El Chileno were pretty basic. My room slept 6 people over 3 bunk beds (but there were only 4 of us for this night). There were shared bathrooms divided by gender down the hall. Overall, El Chileno is nothing fancy but I had no complaints.

• Hike from El Chileno to Los Cuernos
• 8.2 miles, 1,174 feet of elevation gain

On day two of the W trek, you’ll hike from El Chileno to Los Cuernos. In this itinerary, this day is tied for the easiest. The day will begin uphill as you hike out of the valley where El Chileno sits, but then it will be mostly downhill the rest of the day.

This trail includes many fantastic views of Nordenskjöld Lake. The lake is a brilliant aqua green color and there are some beautiful viewpoints.

This is the day where I saw a large hoard of condor birds flying up above and sitting on nearby cliffs. Condor birds are the largest flying birds in the world and they’re fascinating to watch!

Los Cuernos is owned by the same company as El Chileno and has a similar vibe. I actually was here on New Year’s Eve, so we were served a special meal. They also threw a NYE party for the staff (that we were invited to as well). I’m not sure what it’s like on other nights, but the atmosphere was lively and celebratory. This meant it was loud and hard to sleep, so you may want to bring along ear plugs.

Los Cuernos also offers private cabins that sleep 2 people, so try to book one of these if you prefer things a bit quieter.

• Hike from Los Cuernos to Paine Grande and into the French Valley on the way
• 16.4 miles, 3,102 feet of elevation gain

Day three is the longest day of the W Trek. You will hike up into the French Valley, the center of the ‘W,’ to reach Mirador Britannica. Then you will continue onto the third inn of the trip, Paine Grande.

If you do the entire trail, it will be about 16.4 miles and 3,102 feet of elevation gain. I turned back early due to high winds and fog on this day, so I only went about 13 miles.

The trail starts out relatively flat and easy until you reach Camp Italiano. If you have a very windy day like I did, watch out for the beach areas. The beaches are very exposed and the wind almost knocked us over at one point.

When you reach Camp Italiano, there are some outdoor shelves where you can drop off your heaviest gear. There was also a whiteboard here that had information on what time the viewpoints would close for the day and a warning about the high winds.

The hike up into the French Valley is steep at times, but felt more gradual than the hike to the Towers. You will go in and out of forest areas and viewpoints. Even if you just go part of the way, there are some fantastic views where you can admire the surrounding mountains and look for waterfalls, avalanches and glaciers in the distance.

There are four main viewpoints along the way. When I reached the second one, Mirador Valle de Frances, the wind was extremely strong, so many people turned around here. We went a little bit further, but decided to turn around before making it to the third.

After returning to Camp Italiano to pick up your gear, it will be about 5 more miles to reach your inn for the night. It’s mostly downhill and relatively easy. However, the wind was very intense for me and made the miles feel quite long.

There was one suspension bridge crossing that felt particularly daunting, as the wind was shaking the bridge all over the place while we crossed over a river canyon.

You will also pass an area of wildfire damage. Unfortunately, there have been multiple cases of fires started from the mistake of tourists in the park, so please make sure to follow the rules. Open fires are strictly prohibited and camp stoves are only allowed to be used in designated areas.

After this long day, it’s a great feeling to reach Paine Grande. This inn feels nicer than the first two inns, as it’s newer and larger. However, what you gain in newness means that there is less of the great community feeling you get from the smaller inns.

The rooms here are equipped with two bunk beds and more comfortable bedding than Los Cuernos and El Chileno. They also have real lockers if you want to lock up any valuables. Dinner is served buffet style and there is a bar upstairs as well.

• Hike from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey. Optionally, hike up to the suspension bridges and a view of Grey Glacier.
• 6.9 miles, 1,319 feet of elevation gain
• Second hike is 5 miles with 1,014 feet of elevation gain

On day four, you’ll hike to the final inn of the trip, Refugio Grey. You also have the option to hike an additional few miles to see some suspension bridges and close up views of the Grey Glacier, which I highly recommend doing.

The first trail between the two inns is 6.9 miles with 1,319 feet of elevation gain. While it isn’t difficult, this was the windiest area of my trek. The wind made it difficult to move forward at times and definitely slowed us down.

However, the trail has some fantastic views of Grey Lake and about halfway through you’ll start to see the Grey Glacier in the distance. The trail has multiple ups and downs, so you’ll have a nice variety.

At one point about 2 miles from the inn, there is a short portion of the trail where you’ll have to climb down a rock scramble that can be slick. It’s very doable if you have some hiking experience, but I found this to be one of the most technical portions of the entire W Trek.

When you reach the Refugio Grey, there are a few excursions and additional trails you can choose from if you’re up to it. First, you have the option to kayak next to the glacier or go on a guided glacier trek. These activities cost extra and you should reserve them in advance if possible. We reserved the kayaking excursion, but unfortunately it was too windy for us to go out. It had been too windy to kayak for a couple weeks, so keep in mind that this cancellation is very common.

Additionally, you can take a hike up to see some incredible suspension bridges and a view of the Gray Glacier. This trail is about 5 miles with a little over 1,000 feet of elevation gain. It is part of the O Circuit, so you’ll likely see hikers on the O coming the other way.

There are three suspension bridges you can hike to, but I only went to the first two.

The second bridge is especially magnificent. It is quite long and dangles 100’s of feet in the air over a large valley. On one side, you get a fantastic view of the glacier. On the opposite side, you can see a tall waterfall coming down from the mountains. I don’t recommend this if you’re afraid of heights, but it’s a really neat experience if heights don’t bother you.

If you aren’t up for the longer trail, there is also a viewpoint very close to the Grey Inn (a half mile) where you can get a nice view of the glacier.

After an additional hike, an excursion or some rest, enjoy your final dinner of the W Trek. I thought that Refugio Gray had some of the best food for dinner on the trip!

Day Five of the W Trek

• Hike from Refugio Grey to Paine Grande, take the catamaran across Pehoe Lake, take a bus back to Puerto Natales.
• 6.9 miles, 1,208 feet of elevation gain

On your final day on the W Circuit, hike back to Paine Grande to catch the Grande Catamaran. This is the same trail that you did on day four in the opposite direction, but you’ll have about 100 less feet of elevation gain. When you reach Paine Grande, line up to take the catamaran to Peduto.

There are actually catamarans from both Refugio Grey and Paine Grande, and they go different places. I was confused about this, so I’m going to explain the difference and the pros and cons of each.

For the least amount of hiking, you can end your trek from Refugio Gray and take the catamaran across Lago Grey. This journey will take about an hour and costs $75 one way. It will take you to Hotel Lago Grey.

Pros of the Lago Grey Catamaran

• Less hiking! You get to leave from your final lodge via a beautiful boat ride.

Cons of the Lago Grey Catamaran

• It’s about 3 times the cost of the Lake Pehoe Catamaran.
• We were told that this boat is much more susceptible to delays and cancellations due to wind.
• It will bring you to the Lago Grey Hotel, which has fewer transportation options to get you back to Puerto Natales. You may need to stay at the hotel and arrange private transportation.
• This boat is not first come first serve like the Lake Pehoe Catamaran. You should make a reservation before your trek because it is likely to sell out.

For the reasons listed above, most hikers return from the trek via the Lake Pehoe Catamaran. The boat ride takes about 25 minutes and runs a few times a day. Check for the most up to date schedule at Paine Grande.

You cannot make a reservation for the Lake Pehoe boat. You’ll need to wait in line by the dock and board first come, first served. You also need to make sure you have cash - the boat requires $30 USD or $25 Chilean pesos per person, each way. During peak season, they take cash in US dollars or Euros as an alternative to Chilean Pesos.

The boat is quite large so you shouldn’t worry if there is a long line to board. Also note that even though there is a schedule, the boats do not always run on time.

The boat also has stunning views! If it’s a clear day, you’ll get a new perspective of the park and see incredible mountain peaks as you ride through turquoise colored water.

When you reach Pudeto, take a bus ride back to Puerto Natales to end your time in Torres Del Paine National park. There is a small cafe to wait in before your bus ride. You should make sure that you have reserved a bus ticket ahead of time.

I took the second ferry of the day back from Paine Grande (it was scheduled for 11 but ended up being closer to 12) and then waited about 2 hours in the cafe for my 2 PM bus ride. The cafe sold lunch items, coffee, beer and more. There is also a one mile waterfall trail you can enjoy if you have the energy!

When you reach Puerto Natales, celebrate your hard work with a delicious meal, a pisco sour and a nice hotel stay. I loved eating at Cafe Artimana, Cafe Kaiken and La Guanaca Pizza.

How Much Does it Cost to Hike the W Trek?

In December/January 2022/2023, we paid $872 per person to hike the W Trek. This included 4 nights of lodging, full room and board, the bus tickets to and from the park, the ferry at the end and the entry ticket into the national park. We had to pay about $37 extra for a special New Year’s Eve Dinner, so you can subtract that if you’re not going over Christmas or New Years!

Here is the cost breakdown:

Night 1: El Chileno - $125 per person for the bed with sheets, $88 per person for the food

Night 2: Los Cuernos - $125 per person for the bed with sheets, $124 per person for the food (This was New Years Eve so the food cost extra - they did something special!)

Night 3: Paine Grande - $92 per person for the bed with sheets, $61 per person for the food

Night 4: Gray - $92 per person for the bed with sheets, $61 per person for the food

Ferry to return from Paine Grande and end the trek: $30 per person (cash only)

Bus Tickets on Bus Sur between Puerto Natales and the national park: $10 per person each way. There is also a shuttle between the entry to the park to the actual start of the trek that cost $5 per person (chilean pesos only)

Entry ticket into Torres Del Paine National Park: $49 per person

You also have the option to pay extra for wifi, alcohol or extra food at all of the inns. They all take credit cards.

Prices are subject to change, these were the prices for the 2022 - 2023 season.

This does not include flights into Puerto Natales to start and end your trip. This can vary a lot based on where you’re flying from! Note that it is very likely to need to connect through Santiago first.

There are definitely ways to cut out some of the costs!

• You can camp instead of staying inside the inns. The inns all offer options to rent out tents so you don’t have to carry your own. Or you will pay the least if you carry your own.
• You can bring your own food instead of paying for full room and board. I would recommend bringing your own breakfast and lunch items and only paying for dinner if this is something you’re considering. I did not love the breakfast service because on some days, I wanted to leave earlier than breakfast was being offered.

• A backpack that will fit your needs for carrying your things for 5 days and 4 nights. I carried a 40L backpack and thought it was the perfect size.
• A small day pack to carry the essentials for the times you can leave your bigger pack behind.
• A water bladder or water bottle.
• A water filter (We only filled up on water from the inns, which have drinkable water. But it’s good to have a water filter just in case. It depends on your comfort level and sensitivity.)
• Snacks! I did not need any extra food than what was provided from the full room and board, but it’s always good to have some options if there are items in the packed lunches that you don’t like.
• Hiking essentials including a first aid kit , knife, emergency shelter, headlamp and sun protection.
• Your passport, printed out tickets and confirmations, cash and credit card.
• Rain gear. Rain is common on the trek, make sure you have a good rain coat and a rain cover for your backpack.
• Layers. It might get cold, so I recommend bringing a warm hat and gloves.
• Sturdy hiking boots .
• Hiking socks and the clothing you’ll need for 5 days and 4 nights. Avoid cotton and bring items that are moisture wicking.
• Small towel for showering .
• Toiletries such as soap, moisturizer, toothbrush and whatever else you need.
• A second, lightweight pair of shoes to wear around the inns.
• A phone charger and portable battery.
• A buff to help protect against the dust on windy days.
• Insect repellent . I did not encounter mosquitoes, but I’ve heard during certain times of year they can be bad.
• A kula cloth to use instead of toilet paper.
• Trekking poles .
• Ear plugs if noise would bother you in the inns.

For a more detailed packing list for the W Trek, check out my W Trek packing guide !

There are certainly many other things to do in Torres Del Paine National Park besides the W Trek!

If you’re up for a more challenging adventure, consider the O-Trek, which is approximately 68 miles and takes 6-10 days.

If hiking for 5 or more days isn’t your thing (or you have less time) but you want to see some of the park, consider some day hikes.

Day Hike Options Include:

• Mirador Las Torres, the most iconic view in the park, is often done as a day hike. Stay at the Hotel Las Torres and the trail will be about 12.5 miles.
• Take the catamaran from Hotel Grey and hike up to the suspension bridges for a view of Glacier Gray. The hike from Refugio Grey is about 5 miles.
• Hike to the Salto Grande from Pudeto, the trail is 0.9 miles.
• Hike to the Rio Pingo waterfall from Hotel Grey, the trail is 5.3 miles.

There are many more day hike options, these are just a few! You can also go horseback riding, fly fishing or biking or a variety of other activities.

How difficult is the W Trek?

The trail itself is not difficult on the W Trek. It is well marked and there are just a couple areas of rock scrambling. However, the difficult part is hiking a long distance every day and carrying heavy packs. You should be used to hiking 10+ miles on a day hike and carrying a heavy bag.

Can you hike the W Trek solo?

While I did not hike the W Trek solo, I would be very comfortable doing so. I thought that the trail was well marked and felt very safe. With the shared dorms and communal dinners, it’s really easy to meet other hikers and make friends along the way.

Would you recommend the W Trek or doing day hikes?

My experience on the W Trek was one I will never forget and I think it is very much worth doing! If you have the time, I highly recommend doing the entire W trek instead of just day hikes.

Is the water safe to drink in Torres Del Paine National Park?

The water tends to be safe to drink from the water sources at the inns. Some hikers also drink water directly from streams, but I’ve heard mixed reviews and that is not something I would recommend. I recommend bringing a water filter just in case, but it all depends on your comfort level and sensitivity.

Are there mosquitoes on the W Trek?

I did not encounter mosquitoes on the W trek, but I’ve heard that others have during certain months when it is rainy and warm. Bring insect repellent just in case.

What is the hardest part of the W Trek?

I thought the hike to the Base of the Towers was the hardest part of the trek. It’s a long day with a steep climb.

What kind of wildlife will you see on the W Trek?

I saw very little wildlife on the trek, but I did see several condor birds! There are gauchos (llamas) in Torres Del Paine National Park, but it’s rare to see them on this trail. You will likely see them along the roads driving in and out of the parks instead.

Other animals that live in the park but are rare to see are pumas, huemul deer and foxes. There are no bears in Torres Del Paine, so there is no need to carry bear spray.

If you have dreamed about a trip to Patagonia, I hope this guide will help you make it a reality! The W trek and a visit to Torres Del Paine National Park a bucket list experience that you’ll remember for years to come.

If you’re flying all the way to Patagonia, I recommend more adventures than just the W Trek. After the trek, I drove into Argentina to continue my trip. Check out my 2 week Patagonia itinerary and my guide to renting a car in Patagonia to continue planning!

For more Patagonia guides, check out these blogs:

• The Ultimate 2 Week Itinerary for a Patagonia Road Trip
• A Guide to Renting a Car and Driving in Patagonia
• 30 Tips for Hiking the W Trek
• A Detailed Packing List for the W Trek

Thanks for Reading!

Save to Pinterest!

The Best Things To Do in the White Mountains, NH in the Fall

How to Spend a Long Weekend in Savannah: 3 Day Itinerary

Let's stay in touch!

Join the Lost with Lydia email list to get monthly travel guides and tips!

You also may like

30 Tips for Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia (Self-Guided)

A Detailed W Trek Packing List: The Ultimate Patagonia Hike

5-Day W Trek Guide | Torres del Paine National Park

• South America

W Trek is one of the most popular multi-day treks in the world and gets its name from the shape of the trail. The beauty and ruggedness of Patagonia attracts visitors from all over the world. Due to its popularity, booking accommodations has become harder and harder.

5-Day W Trek in Torres del Paine can be hiked in East to West or West to East direction. It is a well-marked trail where a guide is not necessary but using a tour company to book the accommodations and all the meals may be worth the investment.

Where is Torres del Paine National Park?

Torres del Paine is a national park in Chile, Patagonia. It is accessible by bus or car from either Puerto Natales, Chile or El Calafate, Argentina.

To get to Puerto Natales you can either fly directly from Santiago or fly to Punta Arenas and take a 3-hour bus ride to Puerto Natales. The main reason to fly to Punta Arenas is there are more flight options from Santiago, and if you have an extra day to spare you can take an excursion out of Punta Arenas to see the penguins. From Santiago, there is only one flight to Puerto Natales at 5:55 am.

To get to El Calafate take a flight from Buenos Aires. From El Calafate, it is approximately a 3-hour drive to Torres del Paine.

There is public and private transportation from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine. However, from El Calafate, all the transportation to the park is private and must be scheduled beforehand.

When to do W Trek In Torres del Paine National Park?

Torres del Paine National Park is open year-long. However, the refugios, their services, ferries, and other park services are only available from September to April.

Using a Tour Company Vs Booking Yourself

If you are a person who likes to plan and book a trip like this a year in advance and are ok with carrying your tent, sleeping bag, and backup food it is probably better and cheaper if you book everything yourself for the W Trek. The refugios are operated by two different companies Las Torres Patagonia (Fantastico Sur) and Vertices Travel .

If you are more like us and don’t plan too far in advance and like to minimize the number of things to carry with you, then using a tour company to book everything for you is probably a better choice. We used Chile Tour Patagonia . It worked well for us without any issues but some other people in the group had a few minor hiccups.

The Classic W Trek option with Chile Tour Patagonia offers accommodations the night before the trek and the night after with dinner on both nights. It follows the East to West trail, and it includes refugio accommodations every night, hot breakfast and dinner and boxed lunch for every day, and ferry and bus tickets.

With the tour, guides hike with you on the first day to the towers and after that, you hike at your own pace on your schedule. We had a large group with a large age span and it was fun to hang out together in the evenings and share our experiences of the day.

East to West vs. West to East

W Trek can be done either East to West or West to East. It really is a personal choice of how you’d like to do it.

Going East to West, the hardest day is on the first day, the hike to the towers. It is also the most iconic view of the hike.

Going West to East you start at Glacier Grey and the last day is the hardest day of the hike. I also felt, like going East to West you are hiking with the best views in front of you whereas the other way around those views would be behind you.

How hard is W Trek in Torres del Paine

I would consider W Trek as a moderate hike. It has some difficult parts but also very easy parts. The weather conditions play a big part here and can impact difficulty significantly, mainly high winds. But if you are in good condition and frequently hike W Trek would not be that difficult for you.

We have done a few different multi-day hikes around the world, TMB , Slakantay Trek , and Colca Canyon Trek , and all three of these were more difficult due to elevation, distance or altitude.

W Trek Day 1 – Hike to the Towers

The day starts with the shuttle transfer to the park. The drive is about 1.5 hours and you will most likely see Guanacos, Red Foxes, Ostriches, and other wildlife during this drive (same if using a public bus). You need to purchase a park entrance ticket online before the start of the trek and present the QR code at the park entrance. The park entrance is also where you can use bathroom facilities before starting the hike.

The trailhead is by the Las Torres Hotel, another location where they may allow you to use the restroom. We were able to leave our stuff in the shuttle and only carry a day pack on today’s hike.

After a short walk, the trail starts going uphill, with minimal tree coverage and on a sunny day it can get really hot. It takes about 3 miles to arrive at Chileno Refugio. At Chileno, you can take a break, grab a snack, refill the water, and use the restroom. From Chileno, the trail goes through the forest for approximately 2 miles. Once out of the forest, the hardest part starts.

It is a steep climb, with switchbacks and scrambling over the rocks all the way to the towers. The last part is over 1200 ft, elevation gain in less than a mile. Once on top, on a clear day, you will be rewarded with one of the most iconic views in the world. Expect crowds on this hike.

The way down is exactly the same.

OPTIONS: There are three accommodation options for this part of the hike. Las Torres Hotel and Refugio Torre Central are close to the trailhead, and you can leave your 5-day pack there and just carry your day bag with you to the base of the Tower. Or if staying at Refugio Chileno, you can leave your pack thereafter a 3-mile hike up.

TIP: From Chileno, the trail to the towers usually closes at 5 pm, but because we did this hike on Christmas Eve it closed at 2 pm and a lot of people got left out. I’d recommend checking in at the welcome center before starting the hike.

W Trek Day 1 Stats

Distance: 11.33 mi Elevation: 4015 ft Facilities: Park Entrance, Chileno Refugio and WC on the Trail Accommodations: Refugio Torre Central, Refugio Chileno, Hotel Las Torres

W Trek Day 2 – Cuernos Sector

Today is the first day you will carry your full pack with you, and it makes a difference.

From Refugio Torre Central the trail to the Torres and Cuernos sector starts together and after about a mile in it parts ways. Once on the Cuernos sector the crowds disappear and it becomes a much quieter walk.

It is an easy hike to the first pass where you get a first glimpse of Nordenskjöld Lake and snowcapped mountains in the distance. From this point on the views never stop.

Maybe because we had a cloudless day of hiking, this was the most scenic hike on the W Trek. The hike is mainly walking by the lake with breathtaking beauty all around you and views of Cuernos and Glacier Frances. Yes, the view of the Towers steals the best view but during the hike, there is not that much to see going up, on Day 2 the views never stop.

Be aware that Glacier Frances breaks off frequently which sounds like thunder.

We stayed at the Domos Frances.

W Trek Day 2 Stats

Distance: 10.76 mi Elevation: 1932 ft Facilities: Refugio Torre Central, Refugio Cuernos & Refugio Frances Accommodations: Refugio Cuernos, Domos Frances and Refugio Italiano and campsites

W Trek Day 3 – Paine Grande Sector

Day 3 hike can be as hard or as easy as you would like it to be. The main objective is to make your way to Paine Grande Refugio. You have the option to hike via viewpoint Frances and then Viewpoint Britanico while leaving your stuff at Refugio Italiano.

For us, the weather turned overnight. The clouds rolled in, it started raining and the wind picked up. We decided that we will go up to Frances viewpoint and then decide if we want to continue to Britanico. Left our stuff at Italiano and hiked up but the weather wasn’t cooperating, so we turned around a little after we passed Frances viewpoint.

By the time we returned to Italiano, the park ranger closed the trail to go to Frances or Britanico due to unfavorable conditions. The trail is steep and rocky and it got slick with the rain.

From Italiano it is 4.6 miles to Paine Grande. Luckily rain eventually stopped but the wind kept picking up. We spotted a few little tornados in the Skottsberg Lake while hiking next to it.

The only accommodations here are at Paine Grande, either the refugio or the campsite. This is where the Lago Pehoe ferry runs to and from to take you back to the bus stop.

PRO TIP: The Lago Pehoe ferry is a lot more reliable and operates in unfavorable conditions where the ferry on Lago Grey gets canceled more frequently. Which turned out to be the exact case when we were returning.

We stayed the night at the Paine Grande Refugio.

W Trek Day 3 Stats

Distance: 8.95 mi Elevation: 2615 ft Facilities: Frances, Italiano & Paine Grande Accommodations: Paine Grande Refugio and Campsites

Day 4 – Grey Sector

This is the windiest part of the hike and winds in Patagonia are no joke. The hike starts from Paine Grande valley up to the pass and then back down to Refugio Gray.

Coming across the pass we experienced extreme winds, rain, and hail. The weather conditions are what makes this hike hard. The hike from Paine Grande to Gray Refugio is approximately 7 miles with little over 2000 ft elevation gain. On paper, an easy hike. But add over 50 km/h winds and hail and it becomes a different ball game.

Once at Refugio Gray, you can call it a day or continue hiking to 2 nd hanging bridge (another 4 miles), go kayaking by the glacier, or ice trekking on the glacier. We took a short break and then hiked up to a 2 nd hanging bridge to get better views of the glacier.

Big Foot is an operator that organizes kayaking and ice trekking if interested.

If you are too tired for any of these activities or if the weather is not cooperating, you can do these activities the following day as the hike on Day 5 is hiking back to Paine Grande and taking the Lago Pehoe ferry.

TIP: Instead of walking back to Paine Grande, you can also take Grey Ferry and catch the bus to Puerto Natales. However, due to high winds, this ferry gets canceled very frequently but it is an option on a good day.

PRO TIP: If you are coming back to Paine Grande and taking the ferry Pehoe back, you have the option to leave your big pack here and only carry a day pack with you to Grey. It costs 3000 CLP.

W Trek Day 4 Stats

Distance: 11.4 mi (6.85 miles just to Grey) Elevation: 3400 ft (2080 ft just to Grey) Facilities: Paine Grande and Grey Refugio Accommodations: Refugio Grey and Campsite

W Trek Day 5 – Paine Grande Sector and Ferry

Today’s hike is the same as yesterday’s, it is walking back to Paine Grande. We didn’t think the winds could be worse than the day before, well we were wrong. I strongly recommend using hiking poles here, as they were the only reason helping me stay upright at times.

We started at 6 am to make it back to Paine Grande in time to catch the 9:35 am ferry. There are also 11:05, 17:00 and 18:35 ferries in December. Please look at the end of the post for the ferry schedule by month.

PRO TIP: Lake Pehoe ferry has a limited number of people it can take on (we were told 100) so if you are time-limited, make sure you queue up early enough as the 17:00 and 18:35 ferries get full quickly. The 9:35 am ferry was half empty.

Once on the other side of the lake, you can hop on the bus to Puerto Natales right away (make sure you buy a bus ticket ahead of time BusSur.com ) or you can take a short hike to the Mirador Salto Grande (viewpoint of the waterfalls) and viewpoint of Cuernos.

W Trek Day 5 Stats

Distance: 6.85 mi Elevation: 2080 ft Facilities: Grey and Paine Grande Refugio

Suggestions For the Best Experience On the W Trek

Patagonia is truly unpredictable, and you can experience four seasons in one day so come prepared.

It is important to invest in good quality waterproof clothing. A lot of people we hiked with thought they had waterproof boots or clothing and ended up soaking wet. At the refugios, there are only a few spots with a fire furnace where you can dry your stuff off.

Hiking poles are very helpful, especially during high winds to maintain your balance. If it wasn’t for them, I would have been knocked down a few times.

Sunscreen and bug spray are a must. On sunny days, the sun is intense in Patagonia and bugs are relentless. I left the bug spray behind, thinking no way the bugs are going to be a problem. Why carry the weight? I was wrong.

Torres del Paine National Park does not have any trashcans. Everything you pack in, you will need to pack out. Practice the same standards you do in the US National Parks with Leave No Trace.

All the refugios have water filling stations to refill water as needed.

It is a good practice to carry toilet paper with you, as not all toilets have toilet paper. And in Torres del Paine, and Patagonia in general, do not flush the toilet paper or any other paper products.

Food is not the greatest at the refugios. It’s usually just rice or mashed potatoes with overcooked protein for dinner. The Central Refugio had the best dinner, it was buffet style with a lot more options than other refugios. They do accommodate dietary restrictions and at times it looked like gluten-free options were better than regular food.

Wi-Fi at the refugios is available for purchase. It was 15,200 CLP for 10 hrs. You can share it with others but only one person can use it at a time.

Refugios book up quickly so plan early or have a little more flexibility with your dates and accommodations .

Refugios are not well stocked with products, it depends on their location and how accessible means of transportation are. Paine Grande and Grey Refugio Mini Markets were the best stocked with different food and drink options. Some refugios also offer to rent the towels or store your stuff for a price, usually around 3000 CLP.

There is a lot of flexibility when trekking the W Trek. You can shorten it down to 4 days if Grey Ferry is running, or you can stay at different parts of the park and do day hikes and cover most of the W that way. That’s the beauty of it, you can make it work for you.

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something we may earn a small commission. Thanks !

The overall experience of hiking the W Trek is unforgettable and a dream come true for most hikers. We had all different kinds of weather. From a very overcast first day, that cleared up just as we hiked up to the towers, a really hot and cloudless second day, an overcast, cold, and rainy third day, and rainy and windy fourth and fifth day.

A lot of people were leaving the trail early due to the weather, but we wanted to finish it no matter what and still got to see a lot more of Torres del Paine’s beauty than expected.

Lago Pehoe Ferry Schedule

The ferry is operated by HipSur and the table with the schedule is below.

Other helpful posts…

Things to Do In and Around El Calafate W Trek Accommodations and The Cost 13-Day Itinerary in Chile 16-Days Itinerary in Argentina Things to Do in Bariloche

South America | Travel

0 comment(s), contact us:.

Email Address

RECENT Posts

Amazing Two Days of Hiking in Sedona 

Last updated Apr 8, 2024 | Explore , North America , Travel

This itinerary is packed with two full days of hiking, close to 30 miles. In these two days of hiking in Sedona, we hit all the most popular trails.

How to Spend Two Days in Aoraki/Mt. Cook National Park 

Last updated Apr 1, 2024 | Explore , Oceania , Travel

Spending two days in Aoraki/Mt. Cook National Park is best utilized taking a scenic drive into the park, embarking on one of the many trails or taking a flight.

Kayaking in Milford Sound 

Last updated Feb 27, 2024 | Explore , Oceania , Travel

Kayaking in Milford Sound is one of the must-do things in New Zealand. It is a great way to explore the area and do something adventurous and fun.

All You Need to Know About Milford Sound | New Zealand

This post will walk you through all you need to know about Milford Sound whether you are a first-time or returning visitor. What to expect and how to prepare.

New Zealand Itinerary | Epic 15-Days in North and South Island 

Last updated Feb 27, 2024 | Oceania , Travel

This New Zealand Itinerary is designed to spend 5 days in the North Island and 10 days in the South Island. Renting a car is crucial for this itinerary.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing | The Best Day Hike in New Zealand

Last updated Feb 24, 2024 | Oceania , Travel

Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a point-to-point 19.4 km (12 miles) trail in New Zealand. It is considered the best day hike in the country.

Submit a Comment Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Submit Comment

Journeys worth taking

Torres del Paine, Chile

W-trek: budget friendly, w-trek west to east in 5 stages.

Refugios, Camping

Trip Details

Self-Guided

From $1,350 USD per person

Shared Transfers

Pygmy miles

Desolate and unforgiving yet beautiful and serene, Patagonia has mystified explorers since the days of Magellan. It only makes sense to explore this pristine wilderness ourselves. On this journey, you will hike five days in Torres del Paine National Park, the resting place of the W-Trek and its extension, the O-Trek. In total, you will hike 44 miles (70 km) and see the most famous formations of the Paine Massif. You will see the shining blue of the icebergs on Lago Grey, Glaciers in Valle del Frances and marvel at the turquoise water of Lago Nordenskjöld. Perhaps the most stunning natural formation of all is saved for the last day - the Towers of Paine. You will need stamina and resolve to tackle the hardest part of the W-Trek to see the Towers basking in the morning's golden light.

This journey includes shared transfers from Puerto Natales and the park, in order to keep costs down. It also includes all nights in refugio dormitories. In some cases, if there is no availability in dormitories, we can offer camping with all equipment provided (tent, mat and sleeping bag) as a substitute.

The remoteness and beauty of the W-Trek brings people together, making this itinerary suitable for those looking to make trail friends and have a good sense of camaraderie while exploring Torres del Paine.

Please note that we customize all of our tours, both start dates and the actual itinerary to suit your preferences (subject to availability). However, due to the popularity of the W-Trek, we have already reserved some dates to ensure availabiltiy. To check what dates are currently reserved, hit the inquiry button. If you don't see a date that works for you, don't lose hope, we can still create a tour based on your specific dates. Just drop us a line and mention the dates you would like in the inquiry and let us work our magic. 

Itinerary options

Adjusting the hike to your budget and preferences, budget friendly.

• 4 NTS / 5 STAGES
• 4 NTS IN DORMS OR CAMPING
• BUS TRANSFERS
• 4 NTS / 4 STAGES
• 1 NT 4 STAR HOTEL
• 3 NTS DORMS
• PRIVATE TRANSFERS
• LAGO GREY NAVIGATION

IN LUX AND STYLE

• 5 NTS / 4 STAGES
• 3 NTS 4 STAR HOTELS
• 1 NT PRIVATE CABANA
• PORTER SERVICE

Trek one of the most famous and beautiful hiking routes in the world.

Wildlife Viewing

You may see guanaco, rheas (a large ostrich-like bird), south Andean deer or foxes on your visit to Torres del Paine.

Glide across the waters of Lago Pehoe.

Drink a Pisco Sour made from the ice of Glacier Grey.

• See the towers at sunrise—a powerful and awe inspiring experience.
• Stay in local refugios that offer a chance to connect with travelers of a similar spirit.

Optional Extensions:

• 1 day extension for ice hiking, kayaking or horseback riding
• 2 day extension to Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate
• 5 day extension of Argentina—includes Perito Moreno Glacier and hiking to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in El Chaltén
• Complete end to end vacation planning in Chile or Argentina

Torres del Paine is a national park in the Chilean part of southern Patagonia. The park is located 70 miles (112 km) south of Puerto Natales and 194 miles (312 km) from Punta Arenas, the largest city in the region and where most travelers arrive. The peaks of the Paine Massif, the centerpiece of the park, reach up to 9,462 feet (2,884 meters). Exploring this remote region will bring you into the heart of Chilean’s unique biome, a mix of Magellanic subpolar forests, Patagonian steppe and Pre-Andean shrubland. The region is also the lair of a large set of mammals like guanacos, rheas(a large ostrich-like bird), south Andean deer and foxes, and big birds such as the Andean condor.  The weather is unpredictable and it’s often possible to experience four seasons in a single day. Especially remarkable is when snow that is produced above the mountains is pushed down to lower altitude, where the temperature is warm enough for a t-shirt. Quite a rare experience.

The following itinerary is an example of our budget trek. There may be differences due to accommodation availability, including the direction of the hike, camping vs. dormitories, and the overnight location. 

Hit the inquire button and drop us a line to get a quotation . Based on your preferred dates, we can provide an exact itinerary breakdown. 

Please remember we  customize all of our tours , both start dates and the actual itinerary (accommodation, transfers, number of days, meals and activities), to suit your preferences (subject to availability).

Just let us know your preferred start date and preferences in the comments section of your inquiry and we will provide a customized quotation. 

Transfer to Torres del Paine, Navigation on Lago Pehoe, Hike to Refugio Grey (3.5 hours - 10.5 km / 6.5 mi)

You will take a morning bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National park. The trip takes approximately 3.5 hours and there are plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife along the way. After going through briefing at Administration, you will take a boat navigation on Lago Pehoe and arrive at Paine Grande. From there, you will hike 3.5 hour to Refugio Grey. Before ending your hike for the day, make sure to continue on 20 minutes past Refugio Grey to look at the imposing wall of ice of Glacier Grey. There is a second lookout about 2 hours from Refugio Grey if you up for the challenge as well.

Hike from Refugio Grey to Paine (3.5 hours - 10.5 km / 6.5 mi)

After breakfast, you will hike along the shores of Lago Grey. Before embarking on your hike, make sure to take a look at the imposing wall of ice of Glacier Grey. Heading south, this section of the tour is undulating, however one of the easier hikes of the W-Trek. Enjoy the floating icebergs and the lookout points located slightly off trail. In around 3.5 hours, you will reach Refugio Paine Grande.

Paine Grande to Dome Frances via Valley Frances (7 hours - 19.6 km / 12.1 mi)

Today you will hike along Lago Skottsberg and then up into Valley Frances. It take about 2.5 hours to reach Campamento Italiano and another 1.5 hours to reach the first lookout, high above Lago Nordenskjold. On your left hand side you will see Glacier Frances, where frequent small avalanches take place. The noise booms throughout the valley, although the ice that breaks away seems much smaller than it should considering the noise. After ducking in and out of the forest, with sporadic views of Rio Frances below, you will eventually reach Campamento Britanico. In another 25 minutes, you will reach the lookout point, which is a highlight of the trek. Return via the same track and then take a 30 minute trek to Dome Frances along Lago Nordenskjold.

Dome Frances to Refugio Chileno (5.5 hours - 15.9 km / 10 mi)

After leaving the refugio, you'll encounter an undulating, with some steep sections, all they way to Refugio Los Cuernos. Once there, the path becomes easier to handle. Shortly after the refugio, the mighty Los Cuernos will open up to your left hand side. Halfway through the hike, you will have the opportunity to take a shortcut that goes directly to Refugio Chileno, or your can continue on to Hotel Los Torres for one of the better lunches available along the trek. From Hotel Los Torres, its a 2 hour uphill slog skirting Rio Ascencio to reach Refugio Chileno.

Refugio Chileno - Mirador Base Las Torres - Hotel Las Torres (5 hrs - 13 km / 8.1 mi)

A highlight of the trip, you will need to wake up at least 2.5 hours before sunrise (ask for sunrise times when you inquire). It’s also the most difficult hike of the W-Trek. You will need to do a bit of light scrambling up some rocky areas, and if it’s been raining (which it does a lot), then things can get very slippery. Take your time, travel with a hiking partner and bring a flashlight. But it’s all worth it once you reach the towers. The morning hues of purple, pink and blue paint the three towers in a fantastic light. A tip: Bring a sleeping bag up to the top so you can stay warm—the weather is especially brutal up here. After seeing the towers, head back to Refugio Chileno for breakfast and then down to Hotel Las Torres, where your private transport will be waiting to take you on to your next destination (Breakfast - Recommendation to have lunch at Hotel Las Torres).

Pygmy Miles Total

Base Sustainability

Traveling in Patagonia requires a certain level of responsibility. By visiting the park and learning of Leave No Trace and fire prevention, you will help with conservation efforts to keep the park pristine for future travelers. Many of the refugios inside the park source electricity from off-the-grid methods and have implemented many green initiatives.

Hiking Distance

For every mile that you hike, you will receive 10 Pygmy Miles. Specifically you will receive 480 Pygmy Miles for hiking 48 miles in 5 days.

See the Sunrise

We believe in spicing things up during a trip. Conquer a challenge or two. If you can wake up (as early as 3:30 am) and make the trek to see the towers during sunrise, we will award you with 250 Pygmy Miles. Take a picture and send it to us after your trip as proof, and we will credit your account.

Total Pygmy Miles

Accommodation.

Refugio Grey

Torres del paine.

One of the newest refugios, Refugio Grey has one of the nicest lounge areas on the whole trek; wood floors, comfortable leather couches and a bar that will serve you a pisco sour using ice from Glacier Grey. The rooms are 4 to 6 person mixed dorms with shared bathrooms with a total capacity of 60 people. Camping facilities available as well. If your muscles are aching, there is also a massage therapist on staff.

Refugio Paine Grande

Paine Grande is located at the drop-off point of the catamaran on Lago Pehoé. The building can accommodate 100 hikers in 22 dormitory rooms with bunk beds for 2, 4, or 6 people. The refugio has a restaurant, bar, lounge and shop with camping supplies. This refugio is a good overnight option if you choose to do an ice hike early on day 2.

Domos Frances

Domos Frances is located approximately an hour west of Refugio Los Cuernos. It features 3 recently constructed domes with private bathroom for 8 people each (a shared bathroom and a dome). A nice feature of the domes are the individual outlets and reading lights attached to each bunk. Also, the view of Lago Nordenskjöld is perhaps the best view from any of the refugios. Services available: Breakfast, Packed lunch and dinner.

Refugio Chileno

Located 2.5 hours from the base of the towers and 2 hours from Hotel Las Torres, Refugio Chileno is ideally located for those that would like to see the towers at sunrise, yet would like some creature comfort as well. The food is surprisingly good and there is quite a bit of it. There is capacity in the refugio for 32 people (four shared and mixed dorms of 8 people each) and plenty more camping spots.

Refugio Los Cuernos (Domos Frances substitute)

Torres del paine.

Probably the most popular and busy of all the refugios, Refugio Los Cuernos is located not far from the beach of Lago Nordenskjöld. It has a capacity for 36 people. Four shared, mixed dorms hold 8 people each. For hikers looking for private accommodation, there are 8 double cabins that provide access to a hot tub. There are also camping pitches available here. All bathrooms are shared by guests in each category, meaning cabin guests share a bathroom with other cabin guests, refugio guests share with refugio guests and campers share with other campers. Dinner is served at communal tables in two shifts.

Campamento Italiano (Optional)

Free camping site with limited facilities. There are toilets and a small warming hut, but no showers available.

Campamento Torres (Optional)

Free Camping site with limited facilities. There are toilets and a small warming hut, but no showers available.

Remota Patagonia Lodge (Optional)

Puerto natales.

Before or after the W-Trek, Remota is an upscale option located near Puerto Natales. All of Remota's rooms invite guests to rest body and soul. The relaxing aroma of the lenga wood together with the light radiating from the heat-reflecting windows and the magnificent views of the fjord of Last Hope create perfect setting for comfort. Remota offers 72 wonderfully appointed, spacious rooms, all en suite, which measure 360 square feet / 34 square meters. Read more

Hotel Lago Grey (Optional)

Lago grey, torres del paine.

Lago Grey Hotel is situated on the eponymous lake, from which you can enjoy amazing panoramic views of Grey Lake and beautiful floating icebergs. Glacier Grey is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest freshwater ice field in the world. There are 60 rooms available in the hotel, all with comfortable spaces, heating, Wi-Fi, safe for valuables, direct dial national and international calling, and most importantly, all of which are surrounded by nature and beautiful scenery that can only be found in the Torres del Paine National Park.

Practical info

Most people complete the W-Trek during the southern hemisphere's spring through fall months, between October and March. It is also possible to complete the trek in winter, but a guide is recommended. Peak travel is in January and February. Expect rain almost daily, along with sun, possible snow and high wind. In fact, just expect all four seasons in one day.

Self guided

Self guided does not mean you are alone. We help you coordinate and plan your trip beforehand. Once you are on the trail, we provide 24-hour customer service in case there are any urgent issues with your bookings.

We can also arrange private guides for this itinerary.

Service Category

Pygmy itineraries, pygmy itinerary benefits.

• Price Transparency:  see where your money is going with line-item pricing
• Never Lose Your Deposit Guarantee : 50% refund, 50% credit to future trip
• Customized Handbook with Journey Details : maps, elevation profiles, tips and more
• Destination Book Digital Travel App : everything in your handbook, in digital form
• One Year Premium GAIA GPS Membership : your GPS routes, on your phone
• Complete Itinerary Customization : build the trip you want to take
• Special Meal Requests : we'll help you stick to your diet of choice
• Before-You-Go Email Series : helpful emails to get you prepared for your trek
• Transportation Options Information : timetables, routes and contact info
• 24/7 Phone Support for Urgent Issues : give us a call if anything goes wrong
• Email Support (24-hour turnaround) : answers for not-so-urgent questions

Challenge Level

Technical ability.

Level : Low

Mental Strength

Level : Medium

Physical Conditioning

• Path is well marked, however previous hiking experience recommended as terrain is rocky and uneven. Those without experience may be more comfortable in a guided hike.
• Mental strength is rated at medium because of lack of creature comforts, snoring from fellow guests (bring earplugs!) and waking early for the ascent to the towers.
• The hiking is challenging, however only treks into Valle del Frances and to the towers have much elevation change. Only those in good physical health should book this trip. 

Starting at $1,350 per person, based on double occupancy

After initial consultation, we will customize your itinerary to meet your fitness level, budget, accommodation wishes and schedule. Depending on the journey, it might be possible to skip stages, rearrange their order, substitute accommodations, and add or subtract transfers. Find more information on the base itinerary and possible customizations below.

Base Itinerary

• Shared transfer between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine park
• 4 nights accommodation in refugios (dormitory for 4 to 8 people)
• 4 dinners, 4 breakfasts and 4 box lunches

Customizations

• Pick-up and/or drop-off in Punta Arenas or El Calafate
• Substitute private cabana at Refugio Los Cuernos for Domos Frances
• Substitute Hotel Las Torres for Refugio Chileno
• Substitute camping for all accommodations
• Increase or decrease number of hiking days, depending on fitness and motivation

Optional Add-ons

• Guide (daily fee + expenses)
• Porters (fee per porter, per day)
• Internal transfer to Laguna Amarga
• Catamaran on Lago Pehoé
• Private transfer between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine park
• Kayaking on Lago Grey
• Ice Hike on Glacier Grey
• Horseback riding in Puerto Natales
• Navigation to Balmaceda Glacier
• Navigation to Serrano Glacier
• Navigation to Isla Magdalena to see penguins
• Visit an estancia, a traditional Patagonian ranch
• Torres del Paine park entrance fee

Optional Extensions

• 1-day extension for ice hiking, kayaking or horseback riding
• 2-day extension to Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate
• 5-day extension to Argentina, including Perito Moreno Glacier and hiking to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in El Chaltén
• Complete end-to-end vacation planning in Chile or Argentina

not included

• Incidentals
• Travel insurance

You will also like these

Puerto Natales, Chile

Remota patagonia lodge, w-trek: in comfort, chile and argentina, great self guided treks of patagonia: w-trek and el chaltén.

Lauren Loria-Corbat

Related articles, new on the w-trek: july 2024.

Rafael Requena

Avid hiker and marketing manager, what’s the difference between the o-trek and the w-trek, the walker’s haute route vs. the tour du mont blanc, a pilgrim's guide to stamps, the credencial, and the compostela.

Talk to our Adventure Expert

Our Managing Director, Andrew, has been to over 40 countries in his quest for the perfect adventure. He has biked the death road in Bolivia, trekked 500 miles across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago, cycled from Brussels to Florence and hiked the five sacred mountains of China. Pygmy Elephant is how he spreads his love for adventure and self discovery in the world.

Thanks for contacting us. We will come back to you soon.

Your email is safe with us. No spam and no harrasing emails!

Journeys Worth Taking

We customize adventure itineraries, book your travel and then support you 24 hours a day during your trip.

Experiences

United States

Camino de Santiago

Costa Brava

Destinations, discover the world.

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” ― Augustine of Hippo

• Europe (29)
• North America (1)
• South America (9)

West Highland Way

Explora Patagonia

Costa Brava: In Lux and Style

W-Trek East to West: In Lux and Style

We are all over the world.

Choose an experience category that you would like to explore. Each experience has been hand picked by our team for it's challenge, immersion or sustainability.

Innovative Mileage Program

Redeem miles for travel, gear or give to conservation efforts. Our loyalty program rewards adventurous & eco minded travelers.

One day, one jump and two years of passion

After jumping off the side of a cliff with only a cord attached in the Swiss Alps, our founder couldn't go back to his day job. Instead, he set out to create something that he couldn't find in the travel market

From the Road

Find inspiration for your next trip and get advice from travelers who have been there before.

Andrew Delmenhorst

Guide to the w-trek.

How Safe is Hiking in the Alps?

The Tour du Mont Blanc

Accommodation on the White Mountains Hut-to-Hut Trek

Meet the team, get in touch..

Who we are and how to get a hold of us.

Pat Delmenhorst

Nicole Mullaly

Kirsten Thomason

Nicholas Costa

Abdylla Geldiyev

Lauren Johnson

Anna Schnizler

Let's talk.

Email us anytime, on average we provide quotes within 6 hours during business hours and the next day during off business hours.

19 Things to Know Before Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia’s Torres del Paine in 2024

So you’re interested in hiking the W Trek in Patagonia – one of South America’s most famous trails. The W Trek zigzags through the heart of Chile’s iconic Torres del Paine National Park , a land where the summits form stunning granite monolith towers and the lakes glisten a breathtaking turquoise blue. The trek is named after the W-shape it forms on a map, running along the base of the iconic mountains before doubling back into the Valle Francés (“French Valley”) at the very heart of the reserve.

This detailed guide will run through all the ins and outs of hiking the W Trek. It will cover the best time of year for hikers to visit this wild part of Chilean Patagonia, some challenges you can expect to encounter, top trip highlights, what gear you will need, how long you may spend in the wilderness, and much more. Happy exploring!

My experience hiking the W Trek

I’ve trekked extensively throughout the Andes, from the dizzying heights of Machu Picchu to the impressive glaciers of Argentine Patagonia, and have learned powerful life lessons from my adventures . However, I still remember the W Trek as one of the most amazing mountain adventures I have taken. There’s a reason why it’s the most famous hiking trail in Patagonia. T he scenery you’ll enjoy along the way is second to none – imagine jagged mountains that resemble massive shards of ice, milky mountain lakes, and the rolling Patagonian Steppe in the distance. 

A personal highlight of the W Trek was the approach to Grey Glacier, which feels like one of the most untouched parts of Torres del Paine. The path to Grey Glacier along Grey Lake is stunningly beautiful and poses a nice challenge as you trek amongst chiseled sculpturesque mountains. Adding to the physical beauty of it all, the hiking route is fantastically well-organized with designated camp / hut sites that boast gorgeous views of the national park, the trekking season is long, and wonderful local guides are available. I highly recommend you experience hiking the W Trek for yourself .

What’s in this guide to the W Trek?

• An introduction to Chilean Patagonia
• Where is the W Trek?
• The history of the W Trek and the Torres del Paine National Park
• Highlights of the W Trek
• How long is the W Trek? How many days are needed?
• Elevation and terrain on the W Trek
• Is the W Trek difficult?
• Preparation for the W Trek
• When is the best time of year to go?
• What do I need to pack for the W Trek in Patagonia?
• Accommodations: Where to stay on the W Trek
• W Trek permits
• Getting to the start of the W Trek
• Sample W Trek itinerary
• The 5-Day W Trek Circuit
• W Trek Express
• Alternative routes to the W Trek (O Circuit vs Q Circuit)
• Where to go after the W Trek
• Visas for Chile

1. An introduction to Chilean Patagonia

Chilean Patagonia is one side of the greater region of Patagonia. Altogether, it encompasses a whopping 400,000 square miles (that’s over a million square kilometers!) of land at the southern end of South America. It’s a diverse place, rolling from seemingly endless steppes inhabited by unusual Welsh-speaking farming communities to the jagged tops of mountains like the Fitz Roy and the Torres del Paine.

Ever since the first Spanish conquistadors started coming here in the 1500s, Patagonia has been seen as a land of myth and majesty. Open and vast like nowhere in Europe, it wowed explorers with calving glaciers and penguin-spotted islands, mirror-like alpine lakes, and whale-filled oceans. Today, the awe-inspiring nature of the region is still very much intact and trekking here is seen as a bit of a rite of passage a la the Himalaya.

Chilean Patagonia begins roughly 500 miles (805 kilometers) south of Santiago, the capital, and then arcs around the whole of the edge of the continent before finishing at the icy channels of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. It’s all pretty wonderful, but most agree that the zenith is the Torres del Paine National Park, which is where you’ll be doing the W Trek.

2. Where is the W Trek?

The W Trek leads you to the most famous part of Chilean Patagonia: The Torres del Paine. They’re a trio of incredible granite tower peaks that look like daggers shooting straight out of the earth. At their closest point, the three towers are just 12 miles (19 kilometers) from the Argentina border. The nearest main town is Puerto Natales, Chile. More generally speaking, the W Trek takes you down to the ice-capped, snow-dusted ends of the continent, less than 400 miles (645 kilometers) from Cape Horn . It’s truly a wild part of the planet you must see!

3. The history of the W Trek and the Torres del Paine National Park

Arguably the most famous corner of Chilean Patagonia, the serrated tops of the mighty Torres del Paine massif became the centrepiece of their own national park back in 1959. But you have to go back almost 80 years more to discover the moment when the region first entered the limelight.

Yep, Scottish travel-writing pioneer Lady Florence Dixie blazed a trail here during her South American travels in the late 1880s. Her prose recalls “three tall peaks of a reddish hue” stood before plains of ripe berry bushes and grazing guanacos.

Her descriptions piqued the interest of others. Finnish geologist Otto Nordenskjöld took a break from his polar explorations to visit the region in the 1900s. Then came the missionary-mountaineer Alberto María de Agostini en route to his epic crossing of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

It wasn’t until the end of the 1950s that the region was designated an official national park by the Chilean government. It was originally known as Grey Lake National Tourism Park but was subsequently given its modern name in the 1970s, the same decade it was dubbed a prestigious UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

It was also the 1970s that saw the formation of the famous trails. That was spearheaded by a team of local rangers in conjunction with British explorer John Garner (who now has a pass named after him in the range). They laid the foundations of the now-iconic circular route that encompasses the whole massif, including the W Trek section itself.

4. Highlights of the W Trek

If you’re looking to be wowed by the sheer majesty of hiking in Chilean Patagonia, then yes, the W Trek is most certainly worth it. This relatively low-altitude trek takes you through areas of the national park that are widely considered to be the most incredible places in Patagonia. In a region that’s beset by ice fields and soaring peaks, that’s really saying something! 

The W Trek requires a commitment of about 4-5 days of hiking, on average. What’s great is that there is something special to see on every single day of the journey. Views abound from start to finish and there’s always another W Trek highlight to look forward to. The most impressive parts of the trek are:

• The French Valley & Cerro Paine Grande – See the spectacular summits of Cerro Paine Grande, the tallest peak of the Cordillera Paine mountain range in Torres del Paine National Park, up close as you trek into the French Valley. The French Valley is a hidden cleft in the Andes that’s topped by a hanging glacier and dashed with gnarled beech forests.

• The Base of the Towers – you will either finish or begin the trek at this stunning location with a turquoise lake set before the iconic Torres del Paine granite spires themselves. The lookout point encompasses three sheer mountains before a milky alpine lake. This is the scene that is the infamous image of the W Trek. 

• Mirador Britanico – There are numerous lookout points within the French Valley, but we’d say the Mirador Britanico trumps the lot. Stand on this slab of rock to survey an amphitheater of cathedral-like mountains that descend into forests of Antarctic beech trees filled with finches and woodpeckers.

• Los Cuernos – A set of twisted mountains dominating the northern view for much of the hike. A colossal cirque of peaks all tangled together, the Los Cuernos form the very heart of the Torres del Paine massif. Look up to spy out summits named things like The Blade, The Sword, and the Shark’s Fin.

• Grey Glacier – This colossal ice field with calving sheets of frozen water could be one of the most awe-inspiring things you encounter on the W Trek. It is the largest glacier in the Torres del Paine National Park. Just one of the many tongues of frozen water that cascade down from the great Southern Patagonia Ice Field, Grey Glacier is either the grand finale or the starting point of the W Trek. It’s everything you imagine of a South American ice cap, sporting 98-foot high (30-meter) walls that rise suddenly from the turquoise waters of Lake Grey.

• Pehoé Lake – This many-armed body of water rolls out to the south of the W Trek path. You’ll see it on multiple days, but there’s one epic photo spot that frames the twisted Los Cuernos mountains above a mirror-like dash of water.

• The wildlife in Torres del Paine – Of course, you cannot forget the park’s incredible fauna! You will undoubtedly encounter a diverse range of wildlife on the W Trek. One of the most common mammals you will spot will be the ubiquitous guanacos, which are related to llamas and vicuñas. You may also see Magellanic woodpeckers, Patagonian gray foxes, Andean condors, or even caracaras (a unique-looking bird of prey). Even more elusive are the pumas and the endangered and rare Chilean Huemul, or South Andean deer.

5. How long is the W Trek? How many days are needed?

The distance of the W Trek is approximately 55 miles (88.5 kilometers) long. One of the great things about this hiking route is just how versatile it can be. It’s easy to chop, change, and add to the W Trek itinerary so you’ll find everything from 4-day treks to 7-day ultimate treks on the menu.

There are many different distances reported by various sources for the W Trek. The below is what I have personally tracked via GPS while hiking the East to West route for 5 days.

Day 1 – Central Sector to Central Sector (Base Torres Hike)

• 13.5 miles / 22 kilometers

Day 2 – Central Sector to Francés Sector

• 11.5 miles / 18.5 kilometers

Day 3 – Francés Sector to Paine Grande (including Mirador Britannica Lookout)

• 15 miles / 24 kilometers

Day 4 – Paine Grande to Grey Mountain Refuge

• 7.5 miles / 12 kilometers

Day 5 – Grey Mountain Refuge to Paine Grande / Lake Pehoé

If you plan to do the W Trek in 4 days then your Day 4 (Paine Grande to Grey to Paine Grande) will be 15 miles (24 kilometers) in length.

You can do the trail in different directions. There are ways to skip one leg of the journey and add on extra excursions. So long as you follow the basic idea of a W-shaped route through the Torres del Paine park and include a trek into the stunning French Valley along the way, you can rest assured that you’ll see the Patagonian national park’s highlight attractions. 

6. Elevation and terrain on the W Trek

The pinnacle of the W Trek reaches 2,788 feet (850 meters) above sea level. Now, that might sound positively low for veterans of Everest Base Camp, Mount Kilimanjaro, or the Inca Trail – and it is. However, where this trek gets tricky is in elevation gain and loss and the daily distances. Some sections of the W Trek see hikers clock up altitudes of over 2,000 feet (610 meters) in just a few hours, only to lose it all again that afternoon as they head to the rest site for the night. You’re likely to notice this most after the hike to the base of Las Torres, which is followed a few days later by the ascent into the French Valley.

The good news is that there’s zero technical climbing on the W Trek. The trek is on a mix of well-maintained paths, packed mud, loose gravel, and stones. There are some parts where you may need to navigate wet rocks, low streams, and cable bridges, but there’s nothing overly challenging on the route itself in terms of terrain.

7. Is the W Trek difficult?

The W Trek multi-day hike isn’t a cinch, but it’s also not on the same level of difficulty as other world-famous hikes such as Mount Kilimanjaro or Everest Base Camp . So how hard is the W Trek in Patagonia’s Torres del Paine? Well, there’s no technical expertise needed and you don’t have to acclimatize. The trail is well-marked and maintained for a majority of the route. I’d say one of the the biggest challenges is the unpredictable weather, which can change from snow to heavy rain to blazing sun in just a matter of hours. In addition, Torres del Paine is known for its extreme winds which can reach speeds of up to 100 mph (161 kph). 

The W Trek also packs a lot of walking into single days. For comparison, you are asked to hike between 6-8 miles (9.7-12.9 kilometers) per day on average on an Inca Trail tour. However, on the W Trek, you can expect to hike between 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) and 15 miles (24 kilometers) per day depending on how your adventure is structured. I highly recommend a training plan that builds in long distances (over 10 miles / 16 kilometers per day) and consecutive day hikes.

8. Preparation for the W Trek

We’ve already mentioned how the W Trek isn’t up there with Kilimanjaro and other high-altitude expeditions. Most trekkers of decent fitness level should be able to complete it with a solid training schedule beforehand. That said, the days are long on this one – some pack in up to 10 hours of hiking across tough terrain that can get tougher when the weather changes.

For that reason, we’d say a good program of regular exercise starting around 12 weeks prior to the start of your hike is always a good idea. Begin with local walks of 2-3 hours and short runs of just a few miles each. By six weeks out, you should be able to up your runs to three miles and complete a hike of 7-9 continuous hours. With three weeks to go, try to double your number of runs and do weekly hikes of at least 7-9 hours each. I also recommend that you begin doing consecutive day hikes at this time and ensure you are wearing a pack with the same weight you will bring with you on the trek. Resistance training can also work wonders for muscle fatigue and recovery, something that’s often an issue with such long days on the W Trek.

9. When is the best time of year to do the W Trek?

The seasons can be very unpredictable this far south in Patagonia. As a general rule, summer (November to March) is better for trekking, making it the peak season for hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine. That’s because it’s warmer, with midsummer temperatures typically between 43-63°F (6-17°C), and there’s less rain (average of just 4 millimeters each month).

However, it’s not totally clear cut that the summer season is the best time to hike the W Trek. It all depends on your preference and the type of experience you’re looking for. There are way more people hiking the trail so the W Trek lookout points are busier and the mountain huts more expensive. Additionally, high summer winds can spoil a hike in Patagonia so you’ll have to be ready to change plans if the gusts get up to over 80 mph (130 kph) or so.

Autumn (April is a good alternative to the main summer trekking season. The upsides include fewer hikers and beautiful colors on the Patagonian Steppe – think pale yellows, deep oranges, and muted browns rolling out from the base of the mountains. However, there is usually more rainfall and the temperatures at night get low. Keep in mind that the main W Trek route closes on April 30th each year. 

Spring (September to November) is another popular time to hike the W Trek but this season can bring the risk of snowfall. This means you’ll need to pack extra thermals. The W Trek route typically opens in mid-September each year. However, a few of the huts are closed until October 1. So, if you want to do the Trek in September you will need to do an amended version. 

Winter (May to August) a majority of the huts and campsites along the standard W Trek route are mainly closed due weather conditions and snowfall. However, it is possible to do three of the four segments of the W Trek as out and back hikes by staying in two of the refugios that are open during the Winter months. Also, please note that there are fixed group dates for these excursions and the treks are guided by a professional mountain guide which is required by the National Park for safety reasons.

We offer trips all year long on the W Trek. Click HERE to learn more.

10. What do I need to pack for the W Trek in Patagonia?

What you pack for your W Trek trip will depend on when you decide to visit Torres del Paine to hike the trail, but try packing as light as possible. Travelers in the high season (summer and autumn) won’t need as much thermal gear as those visiting in the low season (spring and winter), when there’s a bigger risk of snow and sub-zero temperatures. That said, every hiker on the W Trek should have a good thermal under-layer, a fleece, and waterproof outer layers for the upper and lower parts of your body . The weather can be pretty wild and unpredictable, even in the height of summer, so it’s a good idea to bring multiple layers to wear .

When it comes to trekking equipment, there are some must-haves: sturdy walking boots, a good set of trekking poles, a high-volume and lightweight water bottle and/or reservoir, sunscreen, and a reliable waterproof trekking backpack . Depending on how you choose to do the trek, you may also need camping equipment and a sleeping bag. Note: when booking with us, sleeping bags will be ready for you in both the mountain hut and/or tent at each sector. And depending on the trip package that you book, you may receive a ‘welcome kit’ containing a sleeping bag liner, microfiber towel, water bottle, and map.

Also, drinking water is not treated at huts/campsites along the trail. Many hikers feel comfortable drinking the water along the route (including from rivers or streams). But, if you prefer additional protection and peace of mind, you can certainly bring your own portable water filter (e.g. Katadyn BeFree, LifeStraw, Grayl, Sawyer Squeeze, etc.). Some of these systems only weigh a few ounces!

Some hikers will go for a porter service on their W Trek trip to help carry baggage and equipment. That’s an optional extra with most providers. A porter on the W Trek will typically carry 33 pounds (15 kilograms) of your clothing and gear. Keep in mind that if you do decide to get a porter, you won’t need one on the Base Towers hike as this day is an out and back trek. In addition, if you are doing the 4-day trek from East to West you also won’t need a porter for the last day as you can pay a small fee to leave your baggage at Paine Grande while you trek to Grey.

My team at The Explorer’s Passage makes it easy for trekkers who plan their travels with us. Because the requirements for the W Trek change with the seasons and the sort of trek you go for, we can provide our guests with a full packing list so they’re fully prepared – just ask us !

11. Accommodations: where to stay on the W Trek

There are a number of options when it comes to accommodations on the W Trek. Depending on the sector you are staying in, the options include standard camping, premium camping, cabanas, refugios / mountain huts, and hotels. I’m going to describe each of these options in greater detail below:

Standard Campsites

For the most part, the campsites on the W Trek are of very high quality, at least for true backcountry camps. They’re well equipped with all the things that trekkers might need, and even have extras that you could only dream of in the far-flung basecamps of other major trails. Take the site at Paine Grande, for instance: it has hot showers during designated times each day, bathrooms, access to the restaurant and bar at Refugio Paine Grande, and even pay-as-you-go Wi-Fi. At the various campsites, some of the tents are set up on the ground and others are set up on wooden platforms.

Premium Camping

A few of the campsites on the W Trek circuit have a newer concept known as premium camping, which consists of a raised tent approximately 6 feet (1.8 meters) off the ground and has a ladder for access. The tents in premium camping are larger and sturdier than in standard camping, and there is no need for mattress pads as the entire base floor of the tent consists of a ~3-inch (7.6-millimeter) comfortable pad. Currently, premium camping is currently available at Chileno and Francés Sectors but there are plans to bring this concept to more sectors (such as Central Sector) on the W Trek in the coming years.

Cabanas (cabins)

At Cuernos Sector there is a wonderful accommodation option known as cabanas (cabins). They are mini villas that dot the landscape around the main refugio building and are private accommodations that can fit 1-3 people. There are bathrooms and showers that are shared by all guests who are staying in the cabanas.

Most of our guests doing the East to West W Trek hike directly from Central Sector to Francés Sector on Day 2 of their hike, which is ~11.5 miles (18.5 kilometers). Chileno is located ~9.5 miles (15.3 kilometers) from Central Sector and is 2 miles (3.2 kilometers) short of Francés Sector. So, if you would like private indoor accommodations, then you can sleep in a cabana (cabin) at Cuernos for the evening. Just note that if you do choose to sleep at Cuernos on Day 2 of your trek then it will tack on ~2 miles (3.2 kilometers) to your trip on Day 3 of your hike.

Refugios / Mountain Huts

Refugio is the local name for a refuge or shelter that’s essentially a mountain hut or lodge that offers dorm-style (bunk beds) accommodations along the W Trek. Refugios are rustic but comfy, and typically have warm communal areas with dining halls where you can meet and mingle with other trekkers. The bathrooms and showers at the refugios are communal.

Some of the refugios have bar areas, like Central and Paine Grande sectors. Many of the refugios have small shops where you can purchase an assortment of goods such as water, soda, energy bars, eggs, noodles, toothpaste, toothbrush, and clothing. All of the main refugios on the W Circuit have Wi-Fi for an additional fee as well. Depending on which sector you are in, the number of people per room will differ. The room size on the W Circuit ranges from 4-8 people.

Hotels  

On the standard W Trek route there is only one hotel option, Hotel Las Torres, which is located in the Central Sector. Hotel Las Torres is a very nice 4-star hotel located approximately 100 yards (nearly a meter) from the refugio and camping area at Central sector.

If you are doing the East to West Route, then you will most likely be spending two nights in the Central Sector as your first day of hiking is an out and back trek. We have many guests who stay at Hotel Las Torres for the first two nights of their journey, then do either camping or huts for the remainder of the trip.

Please note that EcoCamp is located in the Central Sector. While not a traditional hotel, EcoCamp consists of luxury domes of different sizes and amenities. We have many guests that stay in EcoCamp for a few nights as part of their W Trek journey. 

If you would prefer to stay in a hotel every night while in Torres del Paine, there are six wonderful hotels that offer all-inclusive programs for their guests. Please note: If you stay in one of these hotels you won’t be able to do the full W Trek. However, you will be able to do some of the W Trek segment hikes as guided day trips with vehicle / boat support to the trail heads. At the all-inclusive hotels in Torres del Paine, you get to choose between a range of guided hikes and adventure activities, many of which are included as part of your package. 

Below is a list of the main all-inclusive hotel properties in Torres del Paine:

Hotel Las Torres 4-Star Hotel Located in the Central Sector, 100 yards (~1 meter) from the Central refugio and camping 

Hotel Lago Grey 4-Star Hotel Located in between the south shore of Grey Lake and Lake Pehoé

Explora Lodge 5-Star Hotel Located near the southern shores of Lake Pehoé

EcoCamp Patagonia  5-Star Domes Located on a hilltop overlooking the Central Sector

Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa  5-Star Hotel Located in on the Eastern shore of Lake Sarmiento de Gamboa

Awasi Patagonia  5+ Star Hotel with 14 private villas Located East of the Central Sector in a private reserve

The W Trek is punctuated with a host of rest areas and the conventional plan of the hike makes use of seven of these Sectors along the way. Let’s take a closer look at each rest site:

• Central Sector – The Central Sector is the base of operations on the eastern side of the W Trek. It’s often used as the starting point or ending point of the entire W Trek journey and is one of the most developed sites in Torres del Paine.

Accommodations at Central Sector include camping, two mountain huts/refugios (Central Refugio & Torre), EcoCamp Dome, and Hotel Las Torres. In the camping area, there is standard camping, which has hot showers, bathrooms, and designated picnic tables. It is expected that premium camping will be added in the near future in the Central Sector. The refugio in the Central Sector has a large common area that has a very fun and social atmosphere so you can meet people from all across the globe. It has 6-person hut rooms, communal bathrooms and showers, and a restaurant and bar area.

Hotel Las Torres is situated 100 yards (~1 meter) from the camping and refugio in the direction of the Las Torres Base Hike. The EcoCamp domes are situated on a hilltop overlooking the entire Central Sector.

• Chileno – Chileno is wedged into the narrow valley that runs north to the base of Las Torres themselves. It-s a pit stop before or after seeing arguably the greatest vista on the W Trek and the location is one to match – scenes of snow-capped peaks and cascading pine woods dominate on both sides. The site is much like the Central Sector, with standard camping and a refugio. The refugio has 6-person hut rooms. Chileno has premium camping as well. There are communal bathrooms, showers, and a small restaurant. It’s a quality lodge with a fantastic outdoor area by a roaring river.
• Los Cuernos – You’ll be greeted with sweeping 180-degree views of glimmering Lake Nordenskjöld when you enter Cuernos sector. It is set on a soft slope right under the twisted tops of Los Cuernos massif itself. In true Patagonia style, it’s well appointed with standard camping, a refugio, and a series of 20 private cabanas (cabins) that are situated in the beautiful terrain throughout the sector. The refugio has 6-person hut rooms. Cuernos has an onsite bar, restaurant, and a snack kiosk, as well as communal bathrooms and showers, and Wi-Fi. 
• Francés – Remember when we said that the French Valley was one of our top highlights on the whole W Trek? Well…the Francés Sector is the gateway to it all. Just 2 miles (3.2 kilometers) to the west of Los Cuernos, it’s an alternative midway option for hikers wanting to enter that secret Shangri-La of the Andes. The site has standard camping, premium camping, and 8-person dome huts. It’s also just as comfy as the other sites listed here, complete with hot showers, bathrooms, a restaurant, shop, and wifi. 
• Italiano – This campground on the main course of the W Trek is a free-to-camp alternative at the base of the French Valley. Because it’s free, don’t expect the same amenities and frills as in the sites on the W Circuit. The basics are all taken care of: Running water, toilets, and a cooking shelter. We rarely have guests stay at this site as it is very basic, but our trekkers primarily use it as a location to drop their bags off for the up-and-back excursion into the French Valley.
• Paine Grande – There’s a pretty slick lodge at the Paine Grande sector on the edge of Lake Pehoé that some trekkers use as the first point of call on the W Trek if doing the West to East Route. The site has a large standard camping site with space for over 200 campers and 4- or 6-person hut rooms. There are communal bathrooms, showers, a shop with an extensive assortment of items, and a large restaurant area. Don’t miss the onsite Paine Grande Bar here – it’s a chance for a pre- or post-trek drink overlooking the serrated Paine Grande Massif.
• Grey – Grey sector marks the western end of the W Trek and, as such, is an important starting point, not to mention connecting point for those looking to join with the larger O Trek. The lodge here is one of the best on the trail. It’s got 60 beds in 4- and 6-person rooms, and a cozy restaurant and bar area to enjoy after dark. The campground has room for 120 people in standard camping and offers a covered cooking space and shared toilets. There’s paid Wi-Fi if you need it as well. 

One important item to note is that if your group size is below the minimum room s ize in the refugios, then other travelers will fill the empty spots on the rooms. Guests are not permitted to purchase the extra room spaces to create a private room. 

Since the sectors are run by three different companies and itineraries often require a separate reservation, booking accommodations for the W Trek can be a chore. It doesn’t have to be, though! The Explorer’s Passage makes visiting Torres del Paine easy. Book your trip to Patagonia with us and let us take the stress out of planning so you can focus on hiking the W Trek. Also, with us, all meals are included from the start of the hike to the finish.

12. W Trek permits

In planning this journey, you may ask yourself “Do I need a permit for the W Trek?” Although you’ll need an entrance ticket to enter Torres del Paine National Park, there’s no official permit system for the W Trek as there is for the classic Inca Trail route to Machu Picchu. There are, however, capacity limitations on the number of trekkers that are permitted to stay in the park’s campsites, huts, cabanas (cabins), and hotels. That acts as a sort of de facto limit on the number of people who can do the trek, governed mainly by who was quick enough to book their accommodations. 

My advice? Start planning early to avoid disappointment. The huts, campsites, and cabanas (cabins) go on sale in May and June each year for the upcoming trekking season which typically goes from September 8 to April 30. Spaces in Central, Chileno, Cuernos, and Francés Sectors are typically released in early to mid May. Spaces for Paine Grande and Grey sectors are typically released in early to mid June. I typically recommend that our guests try to get their bookings in before the first release dates to ensure they get their desired spots.

If you would like help with this process, you can plan to travel with us and our experienced team will take care of all the important details for you, including campsite, hut, cabana (cabin), and hotel bookings, meals, National Park permits, transfers, gear rentals, and much more.

13. Getting to the start of the W Trek

Most people start the W Trek hike with an organized bus transfer from the city of Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park.

Your journey to the trailhead of the W Trek will depend on which direction you will be hiking it: either from East-to-West, or vice versa. At The Explorer’s Passage, we recommend East-to-West, primarily because you get the hardest day of hiking (to and from Las Torres Lookout Point) out of the way on the first full day, when your legs are still fresh. However, some prefer to save the view of these granite towers as a reward for the final day, so they start the journey in the West and head East. As with all adventures, there are pros and cons to each option!

• To hike the W Trek from East to West, you will get off the bus at the National Park office at Laguna Amarga, then take a connecting bus to the Welcome Center at Central Sector.
• To hike the W Trek from West to East, you can get off at the Pudeto stop and catch the catamaran across Lake Pehoé to the refugio at Paine Grande. There are boat departures throughout the day, but be sure to check the schedule before you depart because they can change at short notice.

All of the above trips can be done from Punta Arenas , but expect transfer times to the trailhead to be in the region of five to six hours, instead of a 2-3 hour bus ride from Puerto Natales.

14. Sample W Trek 4-Day Hike itinerary

As noted in the prior section, at The Explorer’s Passage we recommend hiking the W Trek from East to West. Below you will find a sample itinerary for this option (visit our W Trek trip page to download a full detailed itinerary):

• Day 1: Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park –  After breakfast at your hotel in Puerto Natales, you will have the morning to explore the town a bit more. Later, you will travel by bus to Torres del Paine National Park. Enjoy dinner in the Central Sector as the excitement builds for the days ahead, where you will have the rare privilege of exploring one of the planet’s most striking national parks!
• Day 2: First Day of W Trek (Las Torres Lookout) –  Today, you will start early and begin your hike of the W Trek – one of South America’s most famous trails. Today’s destination is the iconic Las Torres Lookout Point! During the first stretch, you will walk through the pampa, cross the Ascencio River, and then hike up to Los Vientos Mountain Pass, where you will enjoy amazing views of the valley and lakes. You will continue your journey to the Chileno Mountain Refuge, and then go deep into a lenga beech forest up to La Morrena, where the hardest part of the day’s hike begins. From there, you will follow a rock trail to the spectacular Las Torres Base Lookout Point. Later, you will return to the Central Sector to have dinner and rest.
• Day 3: Second Day of W Trek (Nordenskjöld Lake & Francés Sector) –  Today is your 2nd full day of hiking the W Trek. You will walk along the shores of Nordenskjöld Lake, below the peaks of Almirante Nieto and the striking Cuernos del Paine. During the hike, you will enjoy magnificent views of Los Cuernos, hanging glaciers, lakes, and the abundant vegetation and wildlife. You will have dinner and sleep in the Francés Sector.
• Day 4: Third Day of W Trek (French Valley) –  This day features one of the most memorable portions of the W Trek: the Valle Francés. You will start early with a light hike to the Italiano Campsite. From there, you will progress through the woods up the Francés River Valley. You will continue to the Francés Lookout Point, where you will enjoy one of the most breathtaking views of the trek: the view of the valley framed by the Paine Grande, Catedral, Hoja, Máscara, Espada, Aleta de Tiburón, and Cuerno del Norte mountains. The landscape will undoubtedly leave you speechless! Later, you will begin the descent to the Paine Grande Sector for the evening.
• Note: we can arrange optional add-on excursions in the Grey Glacier area if you are interested: kayaking (~3 hour activity) and/or ice hiking (~5 hour activity). These activities will require an additional day to your itinerary, as you would need to sleep in Grey Sector for the evening.

If you prefer to hike the W Trek from West to East, culminating with an up-close encounter with the iconic towers themselves, here is a sample itinerary:

• Day 1: Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park  – You wake up early in Puerto Natales for an early transfer to Torres del Paine National Park and then take a boat boat navigation across Lake Pehoe to the Paine Grande Sector. From there, you begin hiking North to Grey Sector. This is your first chance to catch a glimpse of the famous Torres massif, with a broadside of the twisted tops of the Cerro Paine Grande. Once you reach Grey Sector, you break for lunch and turnaround to hike back to Paine Grande Sector. The W Trek hike starts by skirting the milky waters of Grey Lake going southwards. This is right beneath the Cerro Paine Grande and the Paine Horns, which are some of the most famous mountain summits in South America. I’d recommend taking some time to visit the Mirador Glaciar Grey on both the walk to Grey Sector and again back to Paine Grande. This location has some of the best views of the entire W Trek. If you have time for 5 days of hiking in Torres del Paine, you can lengthen your itinerary and stay in Grey Sector (huts or camping) for one evening. This would also give you the ability to either participate in either or both the kayaking or ice trek activities.
• Day 2: Second Day of W Trek (Paine Grande to French Valley) – For many, this day is the highlight of the whole W Trek. The path bends eastwards and north from your second campsite, taking you deep into the heart of the Torres del Paine National Park. The first step is the trek along the south side of the massif to the Italiano campsite. You can leave your main bags there for the expedition into the French Valley. Then, take the north spur into that famous cleft in the Andes, which soon becomes a lush land of twisted pine trees and meadows beneath the hanging French Glacier. If the group is walking well, the aim will be the jaw-dropping Mirador Británico at the end of the valley, all before a return to the Frances Sector hut and campsite complex.
• Day 3: Third Day of W Trek (Nordenskjöld Lake and Francés Sector) – You’re now back to skirting the southern edge of the Torres del Paine. Head east from Frances Sector and join the path that circles Nordenskjöld Lake (Lago Nordenskjöld). It will take much of the day to link up to your next W Trek overnight spot (the Central Sector), but there are some fantastic lookouts along the way. They’ll put the high peaks of the Torres just behind and the rolling tundra of Chilean Patagonia in front, not to mention the placid waters of numerous alpine waters in the foreground.
• Day 4: Fourth Day of W Trek (Las Torres Lookout) – After an early morning start, you will begin a tough uphill ascent through the craggy easternmost valley of the Torres massif. It’s steep but opens the way to the Mirador Las Torres, which is surely one of the most unforgettable viewpoints on the planet! There, you’ll see the three jagged peaks that give this region its name and reputation, jutting straight up from pearly blue waters. You should finish with photos around mid-morning, because you’ll be descending back down to the Central Sector and then to Laguna Amarga (National Park Station) to board a bus back south to Puerto Natales.

These sample itineraries are just a start and the opportunities are endless. Regardless of whether you’re traveling solo or in a group of any size, our expert Adventure Consultants will craft extraordinary itineraries for your private travel needs. See how to get the ball rolling on your private travel dreams here .

15. The 5-Day W Trek Circuit

The W Trek circuit is often completed in four full days of trekking. However, approximately 50% of our travelers elect to do it in five days and spend a night at the Grey Mountain Refuge by Grey Glacier, staying in either camping or in huts.

With this 5-day hike option, the typical fourth day of the standard 4-Day route’s 15-mile (24-kilometer) hike is essentially split in half and shared between Days 4 and 5: from Paine Grande Sector to Grey Sector on the fourth day and then back to Paine Grande Sector the next day to catch the catamaran across Lake Pehoé.

Trekkers who select the 5-day option and spend a night in Grey Sector also have the opportunity to take an ice trekking excursion on Grey Glacier (with crampons and ice axes) or go kayaking in Grey Lake, with amazing views of the massive glacier. Both of these adventure activities are offered multiple times per day, and are a great way to complement a trek in Torres del Paine. In addition, if you stay at Grey Sector for one evening then you have an opportunity to explore the famous “Three Bridges” which are massive suspension bridges that begin approximately 1 mile north of Grey Sector.

16. W Trek Express

Most experts agree that the W Trek is the single most incredible trek in the whole of Patagonia, both on the Argentinian and Chilean sides of the border. However, not all travelers have the time to complete the entire adventure, which is why a more condensed version of the W Trek is offered.

Cue the W Trek Express route. This cuts down your travel time by one day but still ensures you get to see all the legendary parts. Your travel from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine will take place in the morning on the same day that you begin trekking. It runs East to West, starting with the dramatic outlook over the Torres del Paine on an up-and-back route. Day two skirts the top end of Nordenskjöld Lake beneath the amazing Los Cuernos peaks. Day three is another there-and-back hike into the heart of the French Valley before a final day that whisks you across Lake Pehoé to be collected.

The whole Express W Trek can be self-guided or guided and done with hut accommodation or camping.

17. Alternative routes to the W Trek (O Circuit and Q Circuit)

The W Trek may be the most popular trail in Torres del Paine but it certainly isn’t the only walking route that will let you experience this awesome corner of Chilean Patagonia. Usually open from November to April, there are also two route extensions that take you counterclockwise on the trail but promise to whisk you even higher into the clouds as you explore the mountains and glaciers. They are:

• The O Circuit (8-10 days) – Also known as the Paine Circuit, the O trek is the full circuit around the Cordillera del Paine mountains within the national park and includes the W route. It’s definitely a tougher and longer route, but its lesser traveled 74 miles (119 kilometers) of pure Patagonian wilderness will take you to the heights of the John Gardner Pass at about 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) above sea level. The O Circuit trail highlights you’ll see include the reflective Lago Paine, a mesmerizingly turquoise lake, and the mountains from the northern section of the park.
• The Q Circuit (9-11 days) – The Q Circuit is the longer version of the O Circuit. The Q route includes one extra day of trekking past Lake Pehoé. This one’s for the most dedicated of trekkers who have the most time (and money) to spare.  

If you have more time to spare and are up for an extended trek, definitely try out one of the treks above.

18. Where to go after the W Trek

You’ve got a few options for onward travel once you’ve finished the W Trek. The most obvious and popular place that hikers return to is Puerto Natales. Many trek packages even include a drop-off back in that town, which has become a bit of a buzzy outdoors hub in recent years, touting craft beer emporiums and wine tasting establishments. Puerto Natales also happens to be the best base for launching boat trips through the stunning fjords of Chilean Patagonia, including to the far-flung Tierra del Fuego for penguin watching and the Serrano Glacier a little closer by.

You might also want to use this opportunity to cross over into Argentinian Patagonia. The W Trek takes you very close to the border and there are regular buses that make the trip up to El Calafate (6 hours) or you could do a private transfer to El Chaltén (6 hours) from Puerto Natales. Both locations are top options for continuing your adventures through the Andes, opening up hikes under the Fitz Roy (arguably the most famous mountain in Argentina) and visits to the Perito Moreno Glacier (a UNESCO site that showcases huge chunks of ice peeling off a glacier tongue).

19. Visas for Chile

There’s a long list of 90 countries that get visa-free access to Chile, including virtually all of the European Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States. That means administrative work at the border or prior to departure shouldn’t be too much of an issue if you’ve got your heart set on the W Trek. Notable exceptions include Australian citizens, who are no longer charged a hefty reciprocity fee when they enter but do need to go through the process of pre-applying for a single- or multiple-entry visa. All travelers should have at least six months’ validity left on their passport before traveling.

So there you have it, a comprehensive guide to 19 things you should know before hiking the W Trek in Chilean Patagonia! I hope this post has provided you with the necessary information to help you begin planning a truly memorable adventure tour to Chile. If you feel inspired, here are the other best places to visit in Chile .

This guide has covered a lot, but you may have more questions on hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine. If so, my experienced team here at The Explorer’s Passage would love to hear from you so please contact us and let’s chat .

We have been running trips and treks to Chile for 10 years. We pride ourselves on delivering extraordinary tours based on travelers’ needs and are humbled by our guests’ testimonials . In fact, our dedication has earned us a 5-star rating on Tripadvisor , and awards by Travel+Leisure Magazine and Newsweek. Check us out and discover why so many travelers worldwide choose us . My team and I would love for you to join us on the W Trek or any of our other adventures !

I hope to go exploring with you soon! 

Jeff Bonaldi Founder & CEO The Explorer’s Passage

About Jeff Bonaldi

Jeff Bonaldi is the Founder and CEO of The Explorer’s Passage, a premier adventure travel company. His mission is to provide travelers with the opportunity to transform their lives and the planet through the power of adventure.

Learn more about Jeff’s story and his company HERE .

Share This Amazing Location!

Related posts.

Expert Guide to Solo Travel & Top Destinations in 2024

Everest Base Camp Trek – 13 Things to Know for Your Trip in 2024

14 Best Places to Visit in Iceland in 2024

14 Things to Know Before You Climb Mount Kilimanjaro in 2024

The Ultimate Guide to Inca Trail Permits for 2024

The Classic Inca Trail Route: A Day by Day Guide

Lonely Plan-it: how to organize a hike on Chile’s famous W Trek in 2023

Jan 14, 2023 • 8 min read

Tackling the W Trek in Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is a challenge and a thrill sharptoyou / Shutterstock

In this series, we take you step by step through how we planned some of the most complicated travel adventures, so you can recreate them yourself with ease. Here, writer Sarah Reid takes you through how she planned her hike on Chile’s famous W Trek. 

Tracing the foothills of the snow-capped Paine Massif in southern  Chile ’s famous  Parque Nacional Torres del Paine , the W Trek one of the world’s most epic multi-day tramps. Named for the shape sketched by the 80km (50-mile) trail, the W Trek immerses you in some of Patagonia’s most mesmerizing scenery, with turquoise lakes, oozing glaciers, gnarled subpolar forests and wildlife spotting opportunities aplenty (you might even spot a puma).

While it’s easy to follow the well-trodden if not always well-marked trail, planning the expedition is complicated by the numerous ways to access the route and the multiple reservations required before you set out. Having recently experienced the trail in two different ways, I’ve figured out all the tricks you’ll need to plan one of the most memorable hikes of your life. Here’s what I learned.

Step 1: Time it right

Find the best mix of good weather and accommodation availability. 

Hiking the W Trek hinges on the availability of the half-dozen currently operational refugios (hostels with limited dorm beds, a restaurant, hot showers and campsites) dotted along the route, which can book out months in advance during the November-to-February peak season. This is the warmest time of the year comes with the added bonus of long daylight hours – but it can also be very windy. The less-busy shoulder seasons (March to April and September to October) offer increased camping availability and more agreeable weather (potentially; this is Patagonia, after all). A guide is required for a wintertime hike (May to August, when refugios are closed). Wildlife, including pumas, can be spotted year-round.

To get to Torres del Paine, you’ll need to travel to the small, beautifully situated gateway city of  Puerto Natales . You can fly here (or to nearby  Punta Arenas ) from Santiago , take a four-day ferry trip from Puerto Montt  or travel overland from  Argentina (a 5.5-hour bus ride from El Calafate to Puerto Natales). From Puerto Natales, expect a two-hour bus ride to the eastern end of the W Trek, and a three-hour bus ride followed by a 45-minute ferry to the western end.

Step 2: Decide which direction to hike in

You can start or finish your trek with one of the hike’s most epic views. 

The W Trek can be hiked from east to west or vice versa, independently or guided, and you can take as many days as you like (pending refugio availability). Hikers with a good level of fitness will find it’s an achievable four-day independent hike. Factor in an extra day to add a glacier kayaking or ice-trekking excursion departing from Refugio Grey (arrange in advance; more on this below).

The benefits of hiking east to west include frequent daily bus services from Puerto Natales (from 7am) to the trailhead. You’ll also knock off the challenging hike to  Mirador las Torres , at the base of the three granite towers that give the national park its name, on the first day. Hiking in this direction also means you don’t have to worry about securing a spot on the first ferry of the day across Lago Pehoé to access the western end of the W (critical for a four-day itinerary), as ferry tickets can’t be booked in advance. The early ferry (9am) only operates from November to March.

The beauty of hiking west to east is the opportunity to spend your last night at Refugio Chileno, making it easier to catch the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres on your final day and be back in Puerto Natales by dinnertime (finishing at Paine Grande gets you back to town closer to 10pm). With Patagonia known for its strong westerlies, hiking eastward also keeps the wind at your back for most of the journey.

Step 3: Consider your booking options

Reserve your accommodation, transit and park pass in advance to simplify your life. 

This is where it gets tricky. The two refugios at the trail’s western end (Paine Grande and Grey) are operated by Vertice Patagonia , which also runs glacier trekking and kayaking tours. The other four refugios  (Francés, Cuernos, Chileno and Central; there’s an additional bunkhouse near Central called Torre Norte) are operated by  Las Torres Patagonia . You can book preferred campsites and dorm beds (some refugios also have rooms) separately through their websites, or make reservations at camps run by both operators in a single booking via Booking Patagonia .

Meals, pre-pitched tents, sleeping bags and mats can be prebooked for additional fees,  pushing the cost of a four-day hike from as little as $62 (camping costs only; wild camping is forbidden) to around $400 if you book all the extras (and it’s worth doing so if you’re not keen on carrying all your supplies, including cooking equipment). Booking bus tickets to and from Puerto Natales in advance is also recommended;  Bus Sur services both ends of the trail.

An easier if more expensive option is to book an all-inclusive package. These come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from classic unguided through-hikes, to hikes along sections of the trail each day with a guide then shuttling back to an off-trail camp or lodge each night. (Note that it’s difficult to complete all legs of the W Trek as day hikes given the volume of backtracking required to the two exit points.) Local operators offering good-value unguided through-hike packages with an east-west itinerary (about $1000) include Chile Nativo and ChileTour Patagonia . Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice Patagonia also offer packages with accommodation at their own properties (a through-hike is only possible with the former). International operators including  G Adventures and  World Expeditions also offer through-hike packages.

You’ll also need to book a multi-day national park pass via the  CONAF website ($35), which will be checked at the entrance to the park.

Step 4: Prep for the adventure

Find the perfect gear for your adventure. 

With the entire trail located between 100-900m (330-2600ft) above sea level, there’s no altitude to factor in on the W Trek. But it’s the ever-changing Patagonian weather, along with the uneven, often-exposed trail, that will likely test you. Layers are key, and a waterproof jacket, rain pants and pack cover are essential year-round.

Expect to have next-to-no cellular reception throughout the journey. Wi-fi coupons are available for sale at refugios (provided the router is working) but it’s more fun to stay disconnected and mingle with fellow hikers at the bar instead; every refugio has one. Be mindful when packing that everything you carry into the national park must come out with you – the only rubbish bins at refugios are designed for toilet paper. With a limited number of power points in refugios for charging devices, packing spare batteries is a good idea.

Step 5: Nail the trail

Be adaptable to conditions to get the most out of your journey. 

Days on the trail can be long on a four-day hike; set out by 8am in autumn and spring to arrive in camp well before nightfall. If you’ve booked meals, most refugios have two sittings; book the first sitting when you arrive in camp each day to ensure an early night, and early start the next morning.

On foggy days, reconsider rising early to hike to Mirador las Torres for sunrise. You might also wish to reassess the mostly uphill return hike from Mirador Francés to Mirador Británico (the middle arm of the “W”) in poor weather, though I hiked the latter in average conditions and enjoyed it, particularly as I spotted a pair of endangered huemul deer right below Mirador Británico. Consider leaving non-essentials in a dry bag at Italiano (a CONAF-run camp not currently open for overnight stays) on your way up, as you’ll pass this camp again on your way back down.

If you’re making good time between Paine Grande and Valle Francés (French Valley), consider veering off the main path to hike the lesser-tramped alternative trail around the slightly more scenic eastern side of Lago Skottsberg, which adds about 30 minutes to the trip. Turn left at the first bridge after Italiano if you’re coming from the east, and head right at the fork after the first bridge you cross if you’re coming from Paine Grande.

If I could do it all again…

I booked a last-minute four-day through-hike package on my first W Trek experience. I hiked east to west in March 2022, and camped at Central, Cuernos and Paine Grande, and this itinerary was perfect for me. I’ve since hiked sections of the trail on a guided multi-day, multi-sport tour with Chile Nativo, with superb perspectives on Torres del Paine that complemented my first experience.

If I were to do the W Trek again, I’d aim to tackle the extended version of the trail called the O Circuit, ideally in late September, as I found the weather superb and the crowds thin when I visited then. I’d cut costs by making independent bookings, and I’d book my meals again (though extra comforts are not available at all refugios on the O Circuit).

Since my feet were soaking from the second day onward, I’d also wear waterproof boots; pack fewer snacks, as the boxed lunches were sufficient; and go easier on the Carménère (Chilean red wine) at the refugio bars. Did I mention you can order pisco sours, too? 

Explore related stories

Jul 3, 2024 • 11 min read

From epic scenery to finding friends along the trail, here is our pick if the world's best treks.

Jun 24, 2024 • 11 min read

Feb 8, 2023 • 4 min read

Feb 7, 2023 • 5 min read

Dec 6, 2022 • 9 min read

Oct 5, 2022 • 6 min read

Jul 29, 2022 • 14 min read

Jan 25, 2022 • 8 min read

Jan 7, 2022 • 8 min read

Jan 5, 2022 • 6 min read

• Testimonials
• T’s & C’s

Torres Del Paine W Trek

East to West

Torres del Paine W Trek East to West

Torres del paine w trek east to west introduction.

Hiking the Torres Del Paine W Trek East to West means that you are starting at the trail head located close to Hotel Las Torres. Also in this sector is the Eco Camp and Refugios Central and Norte. In addition, the Torres del Paine Welcome Centre is also located in this area.

Typically, a person will start their trek from the above-mentioned area and hike 2hrs up to the Refugio Chileno. Basically, Refugio Chileno is the place to stay for your first night on the W Trek, if there is space. Above all, the trek from Refugio Chileno is only 2hrs to the iconic Torres Base, which is where the lagoon is located at the base of the three tower spires, after which the Park gets its name “Torres”, meaning “Towers” of Paine.

Direct W Trek Request Email: [email protected]

After the torres base.

Following a visit to the Torres Base and a night at Refugio Chileno the trail comes back down to a point where it will fork right and lead to where Refugio, Cabins and Serviced Camping Cuernos is located. This is a main stop off for people trekking the W. Alternatively, there is an option to walk a further 1hr and stay the night at Domos Frances. Moreover, staying at Domos Frances means that you will be one hour closer to the entrance to the French Valley.

After Cuernos, trekkers have the option to go into the stunning French Valley and back out, or cut it entirely and hike on to Refugio Paine Grande.

Refugio Paine Grande is a large refugio and also the start, or drop off point, for the catamaran that operates between Paine Grande and Pudeto. Some people terminate their Trek here, whilst others prefer to do the “full W Trek” and continue on to Refugio Grey, located at the far western arm of the trail, close to Glacier Grey. The trail will pass beside the Grey Lake and at one point, on a clear day, there is a spectacular view of the lake and Grey Glacier at the end, coming down from the Southern Ice Field of the Andes.

Advantages to Trekking East to West

Many of our clients ask the question: Which is the best direction to hike the W Trek Trial? Our answer is always, “in reality is does not matter”. As long as you stop regularly to admire the views, you will get the same views. However, if the prevailing wind is blowing, hiking East to West will mean that you are headed IN TO the wind.

Our Suggestion

Here at ExperienceChile.Org we have developed thousands of Torres del Paine W Trek itineraries. The reality is that the first thing we do is to get you the accommodation. Without the accommodation nailed you cannot do the trek, therefore this is the first base reality.

Once we have the accommodation confirmed we then look at all the other logistics connected to your wider travel itinerary. For these reasons, should we take care of all your requirements in an, and around Patagonia, you will have a lot of hassle taken off your mind!

Our East to West Sector Breakdown is over on our W Trek Description Page – See Link Below

Please Send Us Your Enquiry

For the best service please supply us with as much information as you can. For example, where you want to go, what you want to do, what you want to experience and how much money you want to spend (or do not want to spend!).  How many people, what type of beds (matrimonial, twin, single etc.)

In the event that you are a VIP in any of the fields such as celebrity and/or political and/or business, and you need “special attention”. For example, privacy and/or security for your trip please use an alias in the enquiry but mention that you are VIP and one of the directors will handle your request and keep your real name and details confidential.

Ask us to handle ALL of your South America, or Chile trip and we WILL include some items for free or at special lower-than-public rates. How much we can offer you depends on how much we can arrange and book for you. [email protected]

Remember, our specialty is to create a travel itinerary custom-built to your needs.

Torres del Paine | 5 Reasons to do the W-Trek from East to West

West to East is without a doubt the most popular way to do the W-Trek, which makes sense because it saves Las Torres for the grand finale. When we started planning our route it seemed like this was our best option. A lot of other blogs did it this way so naturally we thought we would too.

But the campsite booking process was infuriating. It was nearly impossible to string together a row of available sites and we were soon looking for a plan B.

Turns out, unlike the longer O-trek, the W-trek can be done in either direction. So we opted to do the trek from East to West as a backup plan and we’re so glad it worked out that way. Every day we found a new upside to share. So if you’re considering taking on this gruelling adventure , here are our top 5 reasons to do the W-Trek East to West.

Reference // Torres del Paine Map

1 // Start with the most difficult and rewarding day

If ‘Patagonia’ conjures an image in your mind there’s a pretty good chance it’s of Las Torres. The three iconic grey towers standing proud behind a turquoise lake have become synonymous with this region from years of marketing efforts promoting the park. For this reason it’s often the end of the W Trek – but we think it should be the beginning.

First of all, it’s the most challenging part of the trek and we can say from experience that you lose steam every day. If we started at 100% by day four we woke up around 75%. So do the hard stuff while you have energy. More importantly, Las Torres has the most anticipation…and expectation. When you kick things off with this wonder of nature everything else feels like a bonus. It put us in the right mindset to explore the park and be surprised and delighted at every turn.

2 // Hike at your own pace

In high season about a thousand people a day pour into Torres del Paine and it didn’t feel like much less in March. When we were considering shifting our plans we read that one down side of W-Trek East to West is all the traffic coming at you in the opposite direction. Which is true, but for us it was actually a good thing.

We far preferred meeting people, stepping to the side and saying a quick ‘hola’, instead of having them in front or behind us at all times. Everyone hikes at their own speed which inevitably leads to getting stuck or feeling rushed when you encounter other hikers. Walking against traffic gave us the space to really enjoy the trek and go at our own pace.

3 // Get to Frances and Britanico before the crowds

The second ‘attraction’ of Torres del Paine is Britanico lookout in the middle of the W, with Frances lookout half way up. The 360 panoramic view of the mountains, snow and lakes is breathtaking, especially if you get a good spot to take it all in. Luckily, since we were leaving from Camp Frances instead of Chileno or Paine Grande we had an hour head start to get there.

Though we didn’t hit the trail until after 8am we still arrived at the small cluster of rocks when there was only a handful of other people and lots of prime seating still available. An hour later it was packed and people were lining up for the most desired viewpoints and photo spots. We left feeling like we had enough time to take it in. Which isn’t always easy with dozens of hikers around.

4 // Celebrate completing the W at Grey Glacier

Traveling East to West makes Grey Glacier the grand finale. The glacier itself is quite grand and more than rewarding enough to view from the various lookouts along the way. But, if you’re looking for something a little extra celebratory this is the ideal ending point.

We opted for the free option of continuing on the trail past Grey toward Paso (meaning we did a very small part of the O trek) to get to the first swinging bridge. It was an exhilarating photo op to end our epic trek. We were too exhausted and short on time to head to the second because we were making the 13km trek back to Paine Grande the same day but there are two more you can reach. Or, if you have a bit of cash to spend, you could reward yourself and kayak beside the Glacier. Or even hiking on top of it.

5 // Say your final farewell from Pehoe Catamaran

To get back to Puerto Natales and celebrate after completing the W trek East to West, you take the Pehoe Catamaran. The 30min journey is the perfect way to reflect on how far your feet have taken you in four days as you take in the mountains of Torres del Paine.

Convinced you should tackle the W-Trek East to West? Check out everything you need to plan your trek and get a free packing list and meal plan. 

Or if you want to experience Patagonia but aren’t into the overnight trekking, consider El Chalten instead .

Have you done the W-Trek? Which direction did you go?

You might also like.

Torres del Paine | The Highs and Lows of our Self-Guided W-Trek

Chiloé Island | What to See, Do and Eat

Punta Arenas | Walking with Penguins on Magdalena Island

Arni Stinnissen

All good points, will definitely consider this when we go! 🙂

I am so enjoying your posts, Laura & Martin!…..your descriptions are spot on…..you can feel the wind and cold…..but yet appreciate the views you are experiencing with the marvellous photos you include.

The Three Towers and the photos of the glaciers were my favourites, but truly, every word and picture is amazing. When you write your chronicles, I will be one of your first customers asking for a “signed” copy!

Thank you for allowing me to tag along! My knee isn’t suffering at all because of it!

Gail Reeves

Get Outlook for iOS