pantelleria travel blog

Pantelleria: A Down-to-Earth Guide

Pantelleria is paradise for those in search of somewhere down-to-earth and soulful. It’s an intense immersion in nature, from the volcanic rocks and springs, to the clean blue waters, dammusi houses made from the earth and open-air scooters and buggies.

The Island Without a Single Beach

Volcanic Activity

Dammuso Stay

The Island by Scooter

Small & Local Scauri Town

Why you should visit Pantelleria

Pantelleria is a Sicilian island that can be reached by ferry or by plane. It is known as the ‘black pearl’ because of the blackness of its rocks, due to its volcanic origin. In fact, Specchio di Venere (Venus’s mirror), is a thermal lake that is a former volcanic crater!

It’s a fabulous holiday destination, loved by Italians and foreigners alike.

How to get to Pantelleria

Getting to Pantelleria depends on where you’re travelling from. There are certain cities in Italy, such as Milan, that fly direct to Pantelleria on certain days. We flew from Palermo , as there are two flights a day, with a flight time of just under an hour. Note that the flights are seasonal and operated by DAT.

You can also get to Pantelleria by Ferry from Trapani. The fastest ferry (Liberty Lines) takes two and a half hours and the slowest (Siremar) takes 6 hours.

Where to stay in Pantelleria

Pantelleria is a fairly big island at around 84 square km (32 square miles) and there are different areas or suburbs that you can stay in.

We stayed in Trancino at Pantelleria Dream Resort , which has rooms that are traditional dammusi. It’s a fabulous resort, with a stunning infinity pool and a great restaurant. It’s also family owned and run and the staff are really friendly and helpful.

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We loved this area because it’s very close to some wonderful swimming spots, such as Cala Levante, Gadir and also the iconic Arco dell’Elefante.

Another popular area is Scauri, which has some great restaurants and is also close to the sea.

Wherever you decide to stay, you’ll always be fairly close to the sea, restaurants and shops as it only takes around 45 minutes to an hour to travel around the entire island.

Best things to do in Pantelleria

I was delighted that there was quite a bit to do in Pantelleria, which is great news if you’re not there for a ‘beach holiday. Although technically there aren’t any beaches as there are no sandy beaches, just swimming spots with decks or rocks.

Here are some of the best things to do when you visit Pantelleria.

Wine tasting at Donna Fugata

There are quite a few vineyards on the island and Pantelleria is most famous for a sweet dessert wine called Passito (which is Italian for ‘raisin’).

Donna Fugata is popular for wine tastings so I recommend booking in advance if you want to visit. They actually have vineyards around Sicily and you get a little passport, where if you visit them all you get a free wine tasting.

The setting is not as pretty as Coste Ghirlanda – and it’s a different experience as it’s an organised wine tasting – but we really enjoyed it. Firstly you are shown around where they produce the wine, then you go outside to taste four wines whilst your expert explains the wine and you’re invited to try certain foods with it to see how the taste changes.

After the wine tasting, you end the tour in the vineyards where you get to try what Pantelleria is famous for – a sweet dessert wine called Passito. It’s absolutely delicious! The tour cost €35 per person and takes around an hour and a half.

Swim in Specchio di Venere

When you’re coming in to land in Pantelleria, you fly over Specchio di Venere and it’s so impressive!

This heart-shaped lake is called Venus’s mirror and it’s been formed naturally from a volcanic crater. The water is incredibly blue!

The water and mud is also therapeutic and people cover themselves in the mud and let it dry. We didn’t do this as it was rather smelly!

Unfortunately on a couple of days when we visited, there were lots of jellyfish so we couldn’t swim in the sea. The lake offers a good alternative on those days. It’s also huge so was never crowded.

There are also two places to eat so no need to bring food and drink with you. One is more a restaurant and the other is more casual, where you can also buy food to take away.

Dinner in a vineyard

We were actually recommended Coste Ghirlanda by the son of the owner of the resort we were staying at as he’s passionate about wine. It’s also quite close to the resort – about a ten minute drive away.

We went one night for Aperitivo and loved the setting so much that we booked dinner for another night. There’s something so wonderful about being surrounded by nature.

The vineyard produces only a small selection of wine and no sparkling wine. Aperitivo is fairly expensive if you don’t take advantage of the wine as it’s a set price of €30 per person. You get also get some nibbles such as olives, taralli and small dishes from the chef.

When we returned for dinner, it was absolutely magical! The setting is just unbelievably beautiful and the food was delicious. In fact we had the best pasta of our trip at Coste Ghirlanda.

Hire a boat

The best way to see an island is by boat! We hired a boat one day and went all around the island, stopping to swim along the way. The great thing about having a boat is that you get to swim in places that are only accessible by boat.

You can either hire your own boat or join a boat excursion tour.

Being on a boat also gives you a great view of the landscape of the island. I’ve been to lots of Italian islands and some of them are quite arid, with not much vegetation. I was really surprised by how green and vibrant Pantelleria is. The scenery is beautiful.

There are levels of stone walls, which are built to protect plants and crops from the wind and you can see this all around the island.

Enjoy a hot spring

There are a number of natural hot springs around the island, thanks to its volcanic past. We found one in Gadir, however the temperature was around 45 degrees Celsius and we weren’t brave enough to get in! We did overhear a woman who lives on the island who said she takes a bath in one every evening at around 6pm.

Gadir is also a lovely swimming spot with a large deck where you can sunbath. There is also a bar and restaurant here. And depending what time you’re there, a lady arrives selling delicious homemade granita from a little van. In fact, she goes to all the nearby swimming spots so no doubt you’d see her at some point.

Aperitivo at sunset

One of my favourite things to do in Italy is have aperitivo. I’d say Lampedusa had the edge when it came to stunning aperitivo spots to watch the sunset but Pantelleria has some great places too – you just won’t always be able to actually see the sun set.

The best area to see the sun set is in Mursia as it’s the west of the island. A very popular place to go is Sesiventi, where you can watch it from the roof. However… you need to book it in advance and it’s also quite pricey. We managed to go without a booking, however the only seating they had on the roof didn’t face the sea! So we just had a couple of drinks downstairs, facing the sea, and it was great. They have a DJ too so it’s got a great vibe.

Another lovely place to have aperitivio is La Nicchia in Scauri. It’s also a restaurant and has a little shop. We ended up buying a bottle of the wine we had enjoyed, to take home with us.

Buy local products

Pantelleria is famous for two products in particular – Passito wine and capers. But of course they also produce lots of other things, such as olive oil, sundried tomatoes and various pastes that you can spread over bread. There are a number of agricultural shops that you can buy local products from, dotted around the island. We bought some capers from the little restaurant in Specchio di Venere, sundried tomatoes from a fruit and vegetable shop by the castle and olive oil and more capers from Azienda Agricola Biologica Emanuela Bonomo.

Visit the castle

Il Castello Barbacane di Pantelleria can be traced back to the Arab or Byzantine period and is one of the most historical landmarks on the island. It was built to protect the sea trade and faces the harbour. You can visit inside the castle and it’s also where the Archaeological Museum of Pantelleria is located.

Admire the Arco dell’Elefante

The Arco dell’Elefante (Elephant’s Arch) is a natural rock formation that, you guessed it, looks like an elephant! Can you see the head and trunk? And maybe even an ear? It’s also a great swimming spot too. Look very closely at the photo below and you’ll see people on the rocks.

And if you do hire a boat to go around the island then you’ll see if from a different angle.

We absolutely adored our time in Pantelleria! Well, apart from the jellyfish. It’s a stunning island with sophisticated restaurants, great swimming spots, beautiful vineyards and delicious food and gorgeous wine – this is why you should visit Pantelleria! I can’t wait to go back.

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Kirsty Marrins

Reader, writer, occasional runner, travel lover.

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Hello Kristy! I am thinking to go to Pantelleria this summer. So helpful to read your post. I have a question for you. Are there any taxi service or hire a car driver on the island? I don’t want to drive after drinking at night.

Hi Hiroko, glad you found it helpful. Yes, there are taxis in Pantelleria. Here are three taxi services with their telephone numbers: Autonoleggio Consolo Noleggio auto scooter Pantelleria +39 338 611 6825, Ammirando Pantelleria +39 389 948 3496, Taxi Driver Di Greco Giambattista Pantelleria +39 333 659 0529

Thank you Kristy! That is so helpful!

You’re very welcome. I hope you have a wonderful time in Pantelleria!

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I Hiked, Swam, and Picked Capers on Pantelleria for 4 Days

Our rental was the house from luca guadagnino’s a bigger splash..

Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating  A Beautiful Mind– style spreadsheets to come up with the best  vacations /itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find those people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.

As her maternity leave was coming to an end this spring, Barbara Potts, co-founder of Saks Potts , was eager to book a relaxing trip with her boyfriend and their 7-month-old before heading back to work. “Sort of like a baby honeymoon ,” she jokes. Potts, who’s based in Copenhagen, was committed to traveling somewhere restorative — a destination that would satisfy her hankering for peace and quiet, locally produced food, hiking , sunsets, and the sea. An Italian friend suggested Pantelleria, a small island between Sicily and Tunisia, which led to other friends advising her to rent the “very specific, very beautiful house” from her favorite film, Luca Guadagnino’s A Bigger Splash . “I fell in love with the architecture on the island; you can really see the Arab influence,” says Potts of the dammusi , the single-story homes built from local volcanic stones typical to Pantelleria. Here, she shares details from a week of laid-back island life: savory meals made with fresh produce, meandering strolls along the beach, and swims in a volcano-created lake.

11 a.m.: Take multiple flights to Pantelleria

We landed in Pantelleria after many connecting flights. As we were traveling in the off-season, there were very few flights, so we had to travel from Copenhagen to Zurich, Zurich to Palermo, and Palermo to Pantelleria. We were traveling with our young daughter — we were all very tired but excited. The last flight was a really tiny aircraft, so we could see the island’s volcanic surface as we got near the airport of Pantelleria. We rented a car at the airport. There is a typical island spirit, very trusting and local — we got this old car with almost no need for any signatures! We packed up the Panda and drove 20 minutes through the beautiful volcanic island to the house.

Noon: Rent a house from a Luca Guadagnino film

We arrived at the house after a gorgeous trip; the terrain is darkened and dry, and the houses are made of thick, earth-toned lava stone. Pantelleria is known as “the pearl of the Mediterranean,” and the dwellings are cube-shaped, simple, and situated along cliffs with a view. Our house for the next four days was Dammuso Grande , the house from the 2015 film A Bigger Splash by Luca Guadagnino. The island is like a heavy perfume: sexy, dark, and somewhat moody.

9 a.m.: Stock the kitchen with fresh produce

We were excited to go grocery shopping at the local market. Everything is really simple and small, like just a food stand or two. We picked up tomatoes, eggs, bread, and peaches. The idea was to make a large bowl of uncomplicated pasta for dinner. When we got the keys to the house, we also received this giant can of locally produced olive oil. We end up buying cans of the same oil to bring home for friends and family — it is spectacular.

3 p.m.: Relax by the pool and eat some pasta

On our first full day there, we settled in by the pool and got to know the house. My boyfriend, Rasmus, is an architect and was very interested and fascinated by the place. In the afternoon, we ate some salty chips and sipped lemonade on the terrace while stray cats ran around. Rasmus made us pasta, and after we ate, we went up to the roof of the house to see both the view of the island and the sea.

6 a.m.: Hike and pick capers along the way

We got an early start since our daughter wakes up early — vacation or not. We planned to go for a long hike around the island, the three of us. We ate some bread and eggs, threw on some clothes, and got going. We started on the south side of the island, not far from the house, and followed the trails on the east side, almost along the beach, and headed toward an area called Kamma. The island is largely untouched by the masses, which makes it feel almost magical. Like, is this place real? We explored most of the island on foot that day. The weather was a bit moody, which only added to the mystique of the place, especially since we were here in the off-season. While hiking, I recommend looking for capers, they are everywhere and absolutely embody the taste of Pantellerian cuisine.

1 p.m.: Have lunch in a valley

We stopped for lunch at this crazy place called Coste Ghirlanda - Officina ( 91017 Pantelleria ). Great seafood and wine, but more importantly, it feels like a movie set: You walk down cliffs to get deep into this small valley with a cliffside covered in greenery. It’s like you’re in a pot of earth and nature.

3 p.m.: Swim in a volcano

Our last stop of today’s hike was the most important: Lago di Venere (mirror of Venus) in the northern part of the island. The lake is within a volcano, and the water is muddy and filled with pockets of warm bubbling water.

Noon: Catch up on work at home

After returning from visiting friends who were also staying on the island, we spent the afternoon catching up on work at home while our daughter slept.

4 p.m.: Have one last dinner with the locals

Earlier in the day, our friends told us about this incredible restaurant they love, Il Principe e il Pirata ( Località Punta Karace, 5 ). We made a reservation for dinner that night. Getting ready, I realized I packed correctly for once — with crisp button-downs and laid-back pants that work out on the trails as well as in the kitchen cooking dinner. We went to dinner, and I felt very at home with the other guests of the restaurant. I ordered the grilled beef filet with some baked potatoes and a lovely fior di latte gelato with caramel for dessert. The vibe was low-key with mismatched chairs and white table clothes. This trip inspired us more than we could have ever imagined.

Barbara’s Pantelleria packing list

I don’t really wear makeup, but this is my all-day, everyday go-to, which is the perfect multi-use product for the whole face. The island is so simple, so you really don’t need much else.

I love these socks for lounging around the house, and they’re ideal for hiking as they’re naturally insulating and moisture-wicking. They’re also stylish enough to wear for a little ankle exposure with tennis shoes.

The terrain is wild in Pantelleria. You definitely need something indestructible to roll around.

The perfect pants for hiking, cooking, and exploring, which is all you’ll be doing here.

Some more rolling luggage we've written about

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Holiday in Pantelleria, Italy: A Hidden Gem in the Mediterranean

When it comes to diving into the marvelous Sicilian sea, the destination often mentioned is the town of Lampedusa in Sicily . However, just a few kilometers away, lies another enchanting islet that captivates holiday makers from all over Italy and beyond: Pantelleria. In this post, we’ll explore some of the must-see attractions in Pantelleria.

Pantelleria is one of the many spectacular natural gems of the Italian peninsula, rich not only in natural beauty but also in historical sites worth visiting. Among the things to see in a holiday in Pantelleria are the Barbacane Castle, the Acropolis of San Marco and Santa Teresa, and the megalithic constructions known as Sesi.

Barbacane Castle

The acropolis of san marco and santa teresa, the megalithic constructions, spas in pantelleria, nature and culture of pantelleria, where to stay in pantelleria.

Barbacane Castle in Pantelleria is an imposing fortress that rises from the old port towards the sea. This fortress once imprisoned members of the local nobility, earning the first floor the name “Carcere per galantuomini” or “Prison for Gentlemen.” The function as a detention facility remained almost unchanged until the 1970s, after which it was repurposed for museum use.

In ancient times, Pantelleria was called Cossyra by the Carthaginians, and the island held significant strategic value as a link between Sicily and Africa. The Acropolis of San Marco and Santa Teresa bears witness to this, as it was the meeting place for delegates and powerful figures of the classical era. In the Acropolis , you can find monuments and effigies of Julius Caesar and other historical personalities, as well as the remains of an ancient temple and defensive walls—all against the backdrop of the infinite blue that surrounds the island.

Even more ancient and intriguing are the Sesi, megalithic constructions visible between Cimilla and Mursia . These elliptical or circular rock piles served a funerary purpose and date back to the 2nd millennium BCE.

Returning to the present and the nature of Pantelleria, you can choose from numerous activities at sea, perhaps enjoying the view of wonders like the Ondine Pond at Punta Spadillo or the Elephant’s Arch to the east of the island. In the mountains, Montagna Grande and its Oriented Nature Reserve can be an excellent starting point for a long walk amid the woods and scents of the characteristic plants of the area.

Whether you dedicate yourself to underwater exploration or mountain excursions, a great way to relax in a holiday in Pantelleria is to indulge in a sauna. The Lake of Venus and the Benikulà Cave are Pantelleria’s natural spas , where you can unwind in the steam of their waters, admiring the surrounding landscape without artificial dividers such as glass windows. Relaxation happens outdoors.

The nature and culture of Pantelleria can also be savored. The island is renowned, especially for capers, a base for preparing sauces to enhance meals, and for Passito , a highly prized wine perfect for pairing with desserts. Enchanting natural environments, a suggestive historical heritage, and a refined enogastronomic culture make Pantelleria an exceptionally rich tourist destination—a luxury to immerse oneself in without a second thought.

To fully experience the island’s inspiring atmosphere, I Jardina di Pantelleria is the ideal place to stay. It goes beyond offering a simple hotel with meticulously curated rooms; instead, it provides actual residences that allow you to enjoy a well-deserved vacation in complete tranquility.

In addition to private villas, at I Jardina, you can book Dammusi at a reasonable price—simple yet characteristic constructions hewn from lava stone, seamlessly integrated into the natural environment, and equipped with comforts like a beautiful pool for a refreshing and private dip.

Lived in England since 1998 and travelled the world since 2005, visiting over 100 countries on 5 continents. Writer, blogger, photographer with a passion for adventure and travel, discovering those off beat places not yet on the tourist trail. Marco contributes the very best in independent travel tips and lifestyle articles.

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Things to Do in Pantelleria – Uncovering the Hidden Gems

Things to Do in Pantelleria – Are you in search of a picturesque and serene destination for your next holiday? Look no further than Pantelleria, a small island off the coast of Sicily.

Despite being relatively unknown to tourists, Pantelleria offers a variety of unique activities and attractions that are sure to leave a lasting impression on visitors. From thermal baths to vineyards, here are the top things to do in Pantelleria .

Pantelleria, Italy

Welcome to Pantelleria! This beautiful island is located in the Mediterranean Sea , about halfway between Sicily and Tunisia. It is known for its unique landscape, thermal waters, and delicious cuisine.

Pantelleria has a population of around 7,000 people, and the island covers an area of approximately 83 square kilometers. The island is of volcanic origin, with its highest point being the Montagna Grande, which stands at 836 meters above sea level. Pantelleria is surrounded by crystal-clear waters and is home to many hidden coves and beautiful beaches.

The climate on Pantelleria is typically Mediterranean, with hot and dry summers and mild winters. The island enjoys plenty of sunshine throughout the year, with temperatures reaching up to 35°C in the summer months. Sea temperature is warm enough for swimming from May through to October.

Hiking and Exploring the Island

Pantelleria is a small island with a wealth of natural beauty to explore. The island offers a number of hiking trails that cater to all skill levels. One of the most popular hiking trails is the Montagna Grande trail, which takes you to the highest peak on the island. The trail offers breathtaking views of the island’s rugged terrain and the surrounding Mediterranean Sea.

Thermal Baths

Pantelleria is known for its thermal baths, which are a must-visit for any tourist. The island’s volcanic origins have resulted in a number of thermal springs that offer natural hot water baths.

The most popular thermal baths are the Bagno Asciutto and the Grotta di Sataria. These thermal baths offer a unique and rejuvenating experience that will leave you feeling relaxed and refreshed.

Wine Tasting

Pantelleria is known for its sweet wine, known as passito, which is made from the island’s distinctive zibibbo grapes. A visit to one of the island’s vineyards is a must-do for any wine enthusiast.

Visitors can sample the island’s unique wines while taking in the stunning views of the surrounding vineyards and coastline.

Snorkeling and Scuba Diving

The crystal-clear waters surrounding Pantelleria are ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving. The island’s rocky coastline and underwater caves offer a variety of unique and colorful marine life to explore. Visitors can rent snorkeling or scuba diving equipment and explore the underwater world at their own pace.

Exploring the Island’s Unique Architecture

Pantelleria is known for its unique architecture, which is a result of the island’s long history and its location on the trade route between Europe and Africa.

The island’s traditional homes, known as dammusi, are made from volcanic stone and feature domed roofs that provide natural insulation. Visitors can explore the island’s unique architecture and learn about its history by visiting the Dammusi Museum.

Relaxing on the Beach

Pantelleria boasts a number of beautiful beaches that are perfect for a day of relaxation. Some of the island’s most popular beaches include Cala Tramontana, Cala Gadir, and Balata dei Turchi.

These beaches offer crystal-clear waters and stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

Visit the Cuddia del Bagno Asciutto

The Cuddia del Bagno Asciutto is a fascinating geological formation that is worth a visit for any geology enthusiast. The formation is made up of volcanic rock that has been eroded by the sea over millions of years, resulting in a unique and otherworldly landscape.

Visit the Island’s Lighthouse

The Faro di Punta Spadillo is a lighthouse located on the eastern tip of Pantelleria. The lighthouse offers stunning views of the surrounding coastline and is a great spot for photography enthusiasts. Visitors can take a tour of the lighthouse and learn about its history and importance to the island.

Enjoy Local Cuisine

Pantelleria is known for its unique and flavorful cuisine, which is a result of the island’s history and location. Visitors can enjoy a variety of local dishes, including couscous, caponata, and a variety of seafood dishes. One of the

apricot and almond tart is a must-try dessert that is made using locally sourced ingredients.

>>>>>> Best Hotels in Pantelleria: The Ultimate Guide to an Island Paradise

Visit the Ancient Acropolis

The Ancient Acropolis is a fascinating historical site that is worth a visit for any history enthusiast. The site dates back to the Bronze Age and is thought to have been a strategic military stronghold. Visitors can explore the ruins of the ancient settlement and learn about its history and significance.

Attend a Local Festival

Pantelleria is known for its lively and colorful festivals, which are a celebration of the island’s history and culture. One of the most popular festivals is the Sagra dell’Uva, which takes place in September and celebrates the island’s grape harvest. Visitors can enjoy local food and wine, traditional music and dance, and a lively and festive atmosphere.

Take a Boat Tour

Pantelleria’s coastline offers a variety of unique and breathtaking views that are best seen from the water. Visitors can take a boat tour around the island and explore its rocky coastline, hidden coves, and underwater caves. The boat tours offer a unique and memorable experience that is not to be missed.

In conclusion, Pantelleria offers a wealth of unique and unforgettable experiences for any visitor. From hiking and exploring the island’s natural beauty to relaxing on its stunning beaches and sampling its delicious cuisine, there is something for everyone to enjoy. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to uncover the hidden gems of this small but stunning island.

• What is Pantelleria known for? Pantelleria is known for its natural beauty, thermal baths, unique architecture, and delicious cuisine.
• What is the best time to visit Pantelleria? The best time to visit Pantelleria is during the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is warm and sunny.
• Can I rent snorkeling or scuba diving equipment in Pantelleria? Yes, visitors can rent snorkeling or scuba diving equipment from local shops and tour operators.
• What is the Sagra dell’Uva? The Sagra dell’Uva is a local festival in Pantelleria that celebrates the island’s grape harvest with food, wine, music, and dance.
• What is a dammuso? A dammuso is a traditional home on Pantelleria that is made from volcanic stone and features a domed roof for natural insulation.

In conclusion, Pantelleria is a beautiful and unique island with a fascinating history and culture. Its stunning natural beauty, delicious cuisine, and thermal waters make it the perfect destination for any traveler looking for a unique and unforgettable experience.

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Don't Tell Anyone About the Last Secret Italian Island

Looking for a place to really hermit out? Pantelleria, the North Africa-meets-Italy island between Sicily and Tunisia, may be the ultimate in escapism. Three-time visitor Sara Blumberg knows her way around the private and remote Mediterranean isle.

PANTELLERIA, Italy – Pantelleria is a volcanic island that sits alone in the Mediterranean Sea, south of Sicily and 35 miles east of Tunisia. One of Italy's southernmost points, its remote location ensures it stays under the radar for most tourists — and even for most Italians.

Pantelleria is at once worth the trip and hard to embrace. My husband Jim Oliveira and I have been three times in the past several years, and for the sake of this story I will pretend that I understand this jagged island marvel.

Pantelleria is beautiful — beyond beautiful — but its rocky terrain, sheer cliffs, and tiny roads make exploring a challenge. We learned on our first trip that sometimes the challenge begins prior to arrival. As we approached Pantelleria's airport (read: landing strip) on a flight from Palermo, Sicily, the plane suddenly rose back into the air. As a fellow passenger explained it, landing on Pantelleria requires near perfect conditions because the airport sits at the edge of a mountain, which can prevent navigational instruments from being much use. The pilot tried three more times, gave up, and delivered us to the Trapani airport (read: shed) instead, where we ended up on a ferry when hopes for an evening flight disappeared.

There are two ways to see Pantelleria, from the land and from the sea. A drive from one end of the island to the other takes about 45 minutes and can follow several routes. High and winding narrow roads hug the land near the shore; interior roads give a good view of the island's small villages and daily life.

Like the American Southwest — dry with open skies and unbelievably dramatic sunsets, this is an island of contrasts, where dusty hills rise and dip into fertile valleys filled with caper farms and vineyards growing the famous indigenous zibibbo grapes, which make delicious passito and moscato wines.

And the sea! The coastline is as hard to reach as it is breathtaking. While there are a handful of accessible spots around the island, a seaside adventure usually begins with a steep and daring decent down narrow paths lined with sharp volcanic rock and massive cacti. Gorgeous blue-green and wildly clear water is the just reward.

If you don't want to make the climb down to sea from land (have courage!), you can rent a boat, hugging the coast and dropping anchor wherever you like (my preference: less courage!). You won't find a grain of sand anywhere, and the coast's sharp edges are not to be taken lightly. But you will find natural hot springs hidden in secret coves and dramatic outcroppings and soaring cliffs above — ample distraction from the physical perils. The two most dramatic views are at Elefante , an enormous outcropping of rock that resembles an elephant's trunk making an arch from land to sea, and Salta-la-Vecchia , a soaring and especially dramatic series of cliffs. The coastline is a near constant thrill, and the entire island can be visited in one glorious afternoon.

Of all the things that make Pantelleria unique, dammusi top my list. The small structures are composed of a volcanic rock called tufo and rise from the earth like orderly caves with straight walls and arching roofs. The absence of a water source on the island dictates a great deal of its architecture, not to mention the behavior of the Pantescans. Every dammuso has a cistern, and every garden has systems for catching every drop of water. Troughs are everywhere, ensuring that water running anywhere, anytime will be put to use.

Because the island is so isolated, wind is a constant source of conversation and alarm. Even plants inhabit amazing architecture of their own. Giardini arabi (Arabic gardens) are stone structures similar to dammusi used to protect plants from the unrelenting winds. It is impossible not to notice that most of the vegetation on the island is stunted, and all the more amazing to consider the abundance of capers and grapes.

Most island residents live in a series of small dusty towns and villages. Pantelleria Town is the island's fairly large port. While not the most beautiful, it's a practical spot for basic services like gas, supermarkets, and larger wine shops.

On our most recent visit, we rented a house on the opposite end of the island, ten minutes from the small town of Scauri — a typical town with small shops, bars, restaurants, and markets. Daily life is that of any small Italian village — older people meeting in the main square to share a coffee and watch the island's few tourists pass by. The locals here are tough — with good reason. The weather and wind are a constant concern, and travel on the narrow and rocky roads is not for the faint of heart. The rich and famous inhabit the island (Giorgio Armani among them), but without an invitation to the many fabulous homes hidden behind enormous plantings, one would never know it.

Our daily routine was the same: drive to the beach in the morning, gather supplies in the afternoon, pick a new spot (a caper farm, a thermal pool, a small market) to explore. Pantelleria is excellent for adventurous people, even as it's very relaxing. By now, we have made friends on the island, so we usually spent our evenings entertaining guests and preparing meals together.

The fact that I have not yet mentioned the food is testament to the distraction provided by Patelleria's natural wonders. But agriculture is a big part of life on the island. Capers and grapes may get top billing, but olives, tomatoes, and lemons also abound. Whatever the island does not produce is ferried in from Sicily. Our rented dammuso had a lovely kitchen, and gathering food from various small local shops was half the fun of being there. We found a fantastic, tiny bakery that sits below street level and faces the sea. They took almond paste to new heights in cookies made with orange peel and walnuts.

At La Niccia , the island's best known restaurant, food is simply prepared and delicious. In good weather, the rooftop garden is peaceful and romantic. Owner and chef Gianni Busetta wrote a terrific cookbook filled with Pantescan specialties that makes for a great souvenir. On our most recent visit, we were treated to after-dinner passito and baccia , a delicate local funnel cake shaped like a snowflake filled with sweetened ricotta and topped with confectioner's sugar.

There are a handful of other good spots for dinner, like U'Trattu in Rekhale, where the menu consists of basics like Pantesco salad with tomatoes, olives, potatoes, capers, and classic caponata. But as I said, the real fun here is buying and cooking local food from the tiny sources you stumble upon, then going back to your rented house and having fun with the fresh fish, homemade pasta, and authentic Italian wine.

Plan Your Trip

How to get there: The local  Pantelleria Airport (PNL)  is served by various regional airlines, more frequently during summer months, through connections from Milan, Rome, Venice, and through Palermo and Trapani in Sicily. This is a pretty remote place, so don't be surprised if you have a layover. If you don't want to fly, take the 7-hour daily or overnight ferry from Trapani.

Getting around the island: We usually spend a week in Pantelleria, which is a good plan because direct flights from Milan, Venice, and Rome usually on Saturday. Renting a car is key and is easy to do at the airport. 

Where to stay: We are a little spoiled because friends on the island tend to make arrangements for us, but Tenuta Borgia is a very elegant if very DIY resource for renting dammusi.

When to go: Pantelleria is 35 miles off the coast of Tunisia, closer to Northern Africa than Italy, so summers can be sweltering. But in the winter you'll find yourself with nothing to do. The best times to go are May, June, September, and October.

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Pantelleria: Italy's Anti-Capri Aeolian Islands Essentials Capri Guide

We make every effort to ensure the information in our articles is accurate at the time of publication. But the world moves fast, and even we double-check important details before hitting the road.

• Pantelleria: the ultimate guide to the Black Pearl of Mediterraneo
• Places and Tours

Amid beaches, breathtaking cliffs and Arab-derived structures, we set out to discover Pantelleria, the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean Sea .

Pantelleria is an island of volcanic origin that lies between Africa and Europe, in the heart of the Mediterranean, in that wonderful land called Sicily . It is known as the Black Pearl for its wild and fascinating landscape, full of contrasts and surprises. 

If you are looking for a vacation full of sun, sea, relaxation, nature and culture, Pantelleria is the ideal destination for you , and and in this ultimate guide we will reveal all the secrets of this unique and unforgettable island.

How to get to Pantelleria: flights and ferries

What to see in Pantelleria

As mentioned, Pantelleria is an island rich in natural, historical and cultural attractions. The Sicilian municipality offers several must-visit locations, and among those not to be missed are the Specchio di Venere lake; the Barbacane Castle ,  Giardino Pantesco  and the M ontagna Grande .

Lago Specchio di Venere

Among the natural wonders of the island of Pantelleria that you will find in this guide, il Lago Specchio di Venere (Lake Mirror of Venus) is one of the most fascinating. It is a basin of volcanic origin, fed by underground springs and surrounded by an evocative landscape. I ts name comes from an ancient legend that the lake was the favorite mirror of the goddess of love , Venus, who was reflected in it before meeting her beloved Bacchus.

The lake has an emerald green color that changes shades according to sunlight and the presence of algae on the bottom. Its waters are warm and salty, with a temperature ranging between 40 and 50 degrees Celsius . Hot springs that contain sulfur and other health-beneficial minerals gush out on the southern edge of the lake. In fact, the mud that covers the bottom has skin-healing properties and is used for aesthetic and therapeutic treatments.

Lake Venus Mirror is easily accessible from Bugeber , either by car or bicycle.

Barbacane Castle

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Barbacane Castle is an ancient fortress overlooking the old harbor and owes its name to an outer fortification, called Barbacane, which served to defend access to the harbor from enemy attacks. However, due to an error by a 19th-century official, the name Barbacane was given to the castle itself.

The castle has very ancient origins: it was built by the Byzantines between the sixth and seventh centuries , but was modified and enlarged by the Normans in the twelfth century, who added a round tower with a cross engraved on the top. This cross represented the symbol of the Christian reconquest of the island, which had been under Arab rule for three centuries.

Visiting the castle, one can discover the various rooms that housed different functions: the dungeons , where prisoners were locked up; the governor's house , where political affairs were conducted; the troop quarters , where soldiers stayed; and the tower of St. Barnabas , where ammunition was stored. A clock with two bells, one of which dates back to 1750, can be seen on the circular tower.

Giardini Panteschi (or Pantelleria Gardens)

Pantelleria Gardens are circular dry-stone structures that protect plants from weather and drought. These works are lampane examples of the wisdom and hard work of Pantelleria's farmers, who were able to create an ideal microclimate for crops, taking advantage of the island's scarce water resources.

Their origin is very ancient, perhaps linked to the presence of the Arabs on the island, and they represent an invaluable cultural and landscape value. For this reason, the FAI (The National Trust for Italy) helped to have them recognized as a Unesco heritage site , thus safeguarding a unique tradition in the world.

Montagna Grande

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The Montagna Grande (The Great Mountain), at 836 meters above sea level, is the highest point in Pantelleria . It is a peak that dominates the island with its imposing bulk and offers striking scenery to those who visit it. The Montagna Grande is part of the Riserva Naturale Orientata di Pantelleria , a protected area that preserves a rich biodiversity of plants and animals typical of the Mediterranean maquis. 

To reach the summit, one can take a paved road that starts from the contrada Sibà . Along the way, you can follow paths that lead to various viewpoints. From here one can enjoy spectacular views of the crater of Mount Gibele , the districts of Khamma and Tracino , and, on clear days, the Sicilian coast. 

Another attraction of the Montagna Grande are the favare , natural fumaroles that testify to the volcanic activity still present on the island. The Montagna Grande is a must-see destination for those who love nature and trekking .

What to do in Pantelleria? Here are three suggestions

As we have seen in this definitive guide, Pantelleria offers numerous activities to have fun and discover the island in an alternative way. Among the most popular are:

- Tour the island by boat to admire its rugged coastline, sea caves, hidden coves, and crystal clear waters. You can rent a motor or sail boat or join an organized mini-cruise.

- Scuba diving , to explore the seabed rich in marine life, submerged wrecks, and underwater volcanic phenomena. You can rely on one of the many diving centers on the island that offer courses and equipment for all levels.

-  The tasting of typical Sicilian products , to savor the authentic flavors of the island. Dishes not to be missed include fish couscous, zighinì (a spicy meat stew), sweet ravioli stuffed with ricotta and cinnamon, and Passito di Pantelleria, a fortified wine made from zibibbo grapes.

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10 things to do in Pantelleria absolutely

What to do in Pantelleria

When there is the island of Pantelleria on your travel program, do not expect stretches of sand but rather enchanting rocky coves bathed by the pristine sea , natural spas , unique landscapes and food and wine of a certain level. The central territory is largely an Oriented Nature Reserve , created to protect the richness of the biodiversity of flora and fauna in the area. You can go horseback riding, you can go hiking and trekking, visit the archaeological sites that testify the passage of different peoples on the island, called the Daughter of the Wind , starting from the presitoric tribes up to the Arabs and the Byzantines. Even today, however, the architectural symbol of Pantelleria remain the dammusi (and other agricultural constructions created by the locals, such as the adjacent gardens and dry stone walls), built starting from the 10th century AD. and then perfected over time.

The agricultural practice of growing the Zibibbo sapling vine , typical of Pantelleria, has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The grapes produced with this cultivation are used to produce the Passito di Pantelleria DOC, with a complex process that ends with the ritual of the harvest at the end of July. But, if you don’t need to know how to reach Pantelleria by ship or hydrofoil , let’s immediately see what to do absolutely on this volcanic island geographically closer to Tunisia than to Italy.

1) Go to the beach at the Lake of Venus

The Lake of Venus, also known as the Mirror of Venus , was formed inside the crater of an extinct volcano. The beach that surrounds it is bathed in warm thermal water which in some places becomes boiling. The bottom of the lake, which can reach a depth of twelve meters, is made up of thermal mud. Near the stretch of water there is no shortage of plants and birds, and there are also the remains of a temple transformed several times in various historical periods, from the Bronze Age to the Imperial Roman age.

2) Take a natural sauna in the “dry bath”

In the Benikulà Cave , called dry bath , water vapor escapes at a temperature of about 40 degrees Celsius. The maximum capacity is three or four people, who can enter together to enjoy a natural sauna. In addition, the landscape of the itinerary leading to the cave, to be taken after traveling the main road that connects Sibà to Scauri, is very scenic.

3) Go to the sea

Starting from the assumption that there are no beaches in Pantelleria, one of the most beautiful places to swim is certainly Cala Levante , a small rocky bay with spectacular backdrops, from which both the Great Faraglione of Punta Tracino and, on the right, the famous Elephant Arch are clearly visible. The Arco dell’Elefante is a rock formation with the trunk that plunges into the crystal clear waters. On the side there is Cala Tramontana , where you can move if the Libeccio wind blows (from the south east).

4) Visit the Pantelleria Garden of Donnafugata

The Pantelleria garden of the Khamma district, a typical example in excellent condition (recently restored) of the buildings dating back to 3,000 BC. which protect plants from strong winds and intercept and deposit rainwater and water from the atmosphere thanks to condensation, was donated to the FAI (Fund for the Italian Environment) by the Donnafugata winery . A centuries-old orange of the Portugal variety benefits from the ancient architecture characterized by the dry lava stone enclosure. It is in this area that Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria Doc is produced. Donnafugata in fact cultivates Zibibbo ( Moscato d’Alessandria ) with Pantelleria sapling and centenary prefillossera vines. You can visit the garden among the vineyards for free, or even have wine or food and wine tastings.

5) Have lunch – or stay – in a dammuso

Only in Khamma there are almost 2,000 dammusos , the houses built with lava stones typical of Pantelleria, currently (in many cases) modernized. On the sea, in Cala Gadir, where two pools carved into the rock contain thermal water at 55 degrees Celsius, there is one of the many belonging to famous people: that of Giorgio Armani. A little further down, in the small port of the cove, there is the dammuso of the Murana family winery, where you can sit for a lunch based on typical dishes, washed down with wine and passito at km 0. You can also stay and sleep in a dammuso: there are, in fact, those used as tourist accommodation facilities, those for rent or even for sale.

6) Go and see the sapling vineyards and caper orchards

The agricultural practice of the sapling vine in 2014 became an Intangible Heritage of Humanity due to its uniqueness. The vines characterized by the Pantelleria sapling are grown in small hollows that protect the vines from the wind and ensure the collection of rainwater. This ancient Phoenician technique generates the Zibibbo grape, from which the famous Passito di Pantelleria is born. The largest vineyards are located in Bukkurám , Piana di Ghirlanda , Piana di Monastero . In Tracino , from where the Arco dell’Elefante is a stone’s throw away, the countryside is cultivated with both vines and capers.

The most interesting capers are those of Mount Gibéle , in a terraced area with dry stone walls included both in the National Register of Historic Rural Landscapes as “Pantelleria dry stone landscape”, and in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

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7) go around the island by boat.

The experience of going around the island of Pantelleria by boat is one not to be missed. It is possible to discover and experience places – bays, beaches, coves and particular rocks and stretches of coast – reachable only by sea. Tours are organized on boats of different sizes, with the possibility of stopping and swimming, having lunch on board, sharing the experience exclusively with your own small group or with others. All to be experienced are Cala dei Cinque Denti , Cinderella’s Scarpetta inlet , Lovers’ beach , the caves of Behind Isola , the Faraglioni del Formaggio and many other Pantelleria wonders.

8) Visit the Sesi Archaeological Park

In the north-western area of ​​the island, in the Cimillia and Mursia districts, we find an archaeological park with megalithic constructions of about 5,000 years ago called Sesi . These are truncated cone burial mounds, with a circular or elliptical plan. One in particular has survived intact to the present day: the Big Sese or King’s Sese, more than five meters high. The others are divided into Major Sesi and Minor Sesi , of decreasing dimensions. These tombs from the second millennium BC in lava stone were built by the Neolithic populations who inhabited this area of ​​the island. Inside, the ancient monuments are divided into various small rooms connected by tunnels.

9) Taste the local food and wine

Pantelleria food and wine is characterized more by products from the land than those from the sea, despite the fact that there is no lack of fish, molluscs and crustaceans, currently being re-proposed on a gastronomic level due to the strong tourist demand. The traditional catch consists of octopuses, squid, moray eels, seafood and reef fish. Meats include purpittéddre (beef meatballs), wild rabbit , briçióle , a kind of meatloaf, and baked çavaréddru (kid) with potatoes. The so-called bitter ravioli are filled with the local ricotta, túmma , and mint. The local koús koús is based on fish and fried vegetables, while in the typical Pantelleria salad we find boiled potatoes, capers, onions, tomatoes and dried fish, and ammógghiu is a tomato and garlic sauce. The famous capers of Pantelleria have the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) mark; preserved in sea salt, they are used to make pesto, fish sauces, pates, appetizers and more. The king of enology is Moscato di Pantelleria , made with Zibibbo grapes ( Moscato di Alessandria ). Although there are also the Golden, Spumante and Liquoroso versions, the Passito is very famous. The sweet grand finale is undoubtedly the pantesco kiss , with sheep’s milk ricotta wrapped in a flower-shaped pancake.

10) Enter the Castle of Pantelleria

The Castle of Pantelleria (also known as Barbacane castle) is located near the old port and it is also home to the Archaeological Museum , where the Heads of Pantelleria are kept (marble effigies from the Augustan period portraying Julius Caesar, Tito and Agrippina, found in acropolis on the hill of San Marco). The ancient four-storey building, of at least medieval origin, consists of a central core, two bastions, a courtyard and a tower . The opening days are subject to change and it is therefore advisable to ask for information at the tourist offices of the municipality.

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Pantelleria

Halfway between Trapani and Tunisia, this volcanic outcrop is Sicily's largest offshore island. Originally named Bent-el-Riah ('daughter of the wind' in Arabic) for the year-round winds that buffet it, Pantelleria is characterised by jagged lava rock formations, steaming fumaroles and mud baths. The island's unique agricultural traditions, characterised by low-slung caper bushes, dwarf grapevines and olive trees laid out on terraces between dry stone walls, earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 2014. There are no true beaches, but Pantelleria's gorgeous, secluded coves are perfect for snorkelling, diving and boat excursions.

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Experience the real Pantelleria. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Lago Specchio di Venere

Just inland from Pantelleria's north coast, the iridescent waters of this volcanic lake are a stunning sight. Along the southern lakeshore, natural hot…

Balata dei Turchi

Those willing to brave the steep and treacherous 3km descent on an unpaved road will be rewarded with one of Pantelleria's most beautiful swimming spots,…

Parco Archeologico dei Sesi

This archaeological site on Pantelleria's northwestern coast preserves the remains of several mound-shaped Megalithic stone necropolises known as sesi…

Arco dell'Elefante

This sweeping natural arch of rugged grey stone is reputed to look like an elephant's trunk – and indeed it does! To get here, first head for the twin…

Cala Tramontana

One of Pantelleria's most popular swimming spots is this small rocky cove, equipped with a wooden sundeck for bathers and backed by a cluster of dammusi …

Cala Levante

Rugged cliffs and grand Mediterranean vistas combine to make this picturesque cove on Pantelleria's east coast one of the island's most popular swimming…

Museo Vulcanologico

This tiny free museum near the Punta Spadillo lighthouse has a fascinating collection of displays in Italian and English, covering everything from…

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Pantelleria, Italy's elemental island

By Antonia Quirke

Jagging from the sea between Sicily and Tunisia , the 32-square -mile island of Pantelleria is an impregnable barley-twist of volcanic rhyolite. Seams of copper and orange bookend its black cliffs like moving lightning. And everything is covered in 1,000-year-old Arabic terraces of vines and capers, so teeming with trans-Saharan winds that the branches crawl close to the ground in a gnarled bonsai swoon. Little hamlets of lava-stone-domed houses called dammusi have been built down the centuries to resemble scarab beetles, with windows like gashes and gardens of cactuses stalked by sulking cockerels.

A succession of cultures have possessed Pantelleria. Vandals, Carthaginians, pirates. Once everybody spoke Arabic but prayed as Christians, trading with North Africa, and Jewish merchants, and Basilian monks. Now the island is Sicilian-Catholic, and yet is coolly lazy about religion. Suspended between Africa and Europe , it looks to neither mainland with particular longing.

In the main harbour there’s a stall that sells just-dried chillis and savage hunks of pork under a decades-old picture of Jesus dissolving blondely into his halo. I’m biding my time, waiting for Pasticceria Gelateria Katia along the waterfront to start serving its dark-chocolate gelato, nubby with Pantescan capers so dense and fragrant you comprehend that they are in fact edible flower-buds, real knots of life. In the glass cases of the shop, when it opens, are cannoli stuffed with a great quantity of a moon-pale ricotta, like bulging Edwardian corsets, which the owner piles carefully, one by one, into a white box for an impatient woman dressed up for a wedding. The door bangs open and shut, the sound of church bells and outboard motors churning the harbour beyond.

The port at Scauri is prettier. A bar-café, called Kaya Kaya, sits on sanded boards just above the rocks selling cubes of swordfish shining with marinated orange and oil, and caponata full of pine nuts the size of clout nails. The morning falls on the water below with merciless clarity. From the tiny café kitchen a radio pounds out old tunes, Bryan Ferry singing ‘Kiss and Tell’ with his buttery mouth as the blue of the sky spreads like a fan. Down on the rocks a few children take running leaps and vault themselves into the warm sea, lying on their backs and floating in a dreamlike lostness, occasionally reaching out a hand to check they’re not too close to the rocks – they can be sharp. But it’s swimming off rocks or nothing; there are no beaches here. A friend in Palermo who came to the island every summer through the 1960s tells stories about diving for sea urchins from these rocks when he was 15. He would bring them up and slice them open like passion fruit, dipping them in the salted olive oil he had decanted into holes in the honeycombed stone, his feet and hands leathery from the jags and brine. ‘It’s a kind of paradise on Pantelleria,’ he told me, ‘but nothing is… easy .’ He’d stabbed his fist quickly into the air, as though demonstrating the most overwhelming of feelings. ‘Everything there is like a knife. Affilato .’

One day I meet with a woman called Arianne, a fiftysomething Sicilian friend of a friend who’s lived mostly on the island for decades. Her battered hatchback is scattered with old letters and cigarette lighters and gummed-together boiled sweets, and when I ask her to show me her favourite, hidden Pantescan thing she screws up her eyes against the light and heads down narrow roads exploding with Judas trees. The khaki hillsides are latticed with crumbling stone walls, wild fennel reaching so thick and featherishly into the wound-down windows we eventually get out and walk through the area of Mueggen, heat dazzling off fields of volcanic soil planted with little round aubergines and sweet zibibbo grapes that make a fantastically mellow passito . ‘Here, taste,’ orders Arianne, passing me some as we stoop by a vine, the grapes dropping into my hand like hot stones. (Someone told me that Arianne is a princess. Sicilians are obsessed with nobility. My old boyfriend, Luca, is always grumbling about it. ‘This baron and that prince, with their crests and villa with no roof. My great grandmother had the same name as a duke! Ma chi se ne frega! ’) By the time we come to a grove of oak trees the mid-afternoon sky is a roofless blue vault. Beneath us, carved deep into rocks, is a trio of Byzantine tombs, each touchingly modest, as though three delicate people had just come to lie down for a while among the crunching dried acorns and dandelions. In the field beyond, a song thrush buffets against the wind, like a speck of thrown seed.

One of my favourite films, A Bigger Splash , was made on the island in 2015 – about a British rock singer hiding out from the world, and wrangling her troublesome lovers. In one scene a housekeeper puffs out her cheeks as she battles from a car, hooting, ‘I don’t even know what wind it is today!’ All kinds of winds collide on Pantelleria. The mistral with the sirocco, and that’s just two of the ones I’ve heard of. (The island is known in Arabic as ‘Daughter of the Wind’.) Islanders stand in the street looking at an app on their phones that details the latest knots and turbulence, their eyes narrowed to fascinated slits, garments wrenched up and fluttering behind their prone bodies, like wings. I stay for a few days at the place where they made that film – an elegant estate called Tenuta Borgia, with dammusi renovated to feel almost like tranquil chapels and polished gargantuan beds spread with laundered white lace. The grounds are full of vines and vibrant majolica ceramics and crimson hibiscus. A walled Arabic garden has a citrus tree that catches the movement of the light through the day as though it were a sundial.

You get to like the wind. One evening I battle up the Via Sotto Kuddia in Scauri, scarcely able to walk in a straight line against gusts so warm and powerful it feels like I’m moving through thick velvet curtains. After a while I give up and sit on a pavement watching two elderly women at a table by an open door as they wait for someone to bring dinner up the steep steps from the Panettiere Marrone Francesco below – the best pizza on the island, studded with sweet onion. I’d been at a christening party all day, where 40 islanders in enormous sunglasses had stood swaying to Van Morrison and The Marvelettes while they brought out great platters of sugared almonds, and oregano sausages, and rabbit stewed in passito . After a lot of wine and many espressos, everybody passed around the well-padded baby, his mother wearing an ingeniously arty dress made from what might have been swagged fishing nets, with iridescent shells on a string, strands of hair curling damply at the nape of her neck, like a mermaid who’d only emerged that morning. Everybody had danced and talked a lot, and been less brusque and sceptical than usual – Pantescans are not sentimental. They are fatalistic; their eyebrows are perpetually raised. Coloured lanterns along the bar were dim and lustrous, and when I left I passed an old man with a long beard descending the darkening hill carrying a loaf of bread in the moonlight, like a saint.

The best cinema in Italy is on Pantelleria. In the Cineteatro San Gaetano’s tiny Deco lobby, Marlon Brando smirks in a framed still from The Wild One , hung on the wall over a rusting Veronese projector. The place literally vibrates with the drumfire and rumble of the evening feature. Giorgio Armani paid for the new sound system, and it’s IMAX intense, the whole place a pullulating boombox run by teenage boys – ushers with otter-slicked pseudo-hipster hair – who just about tolerate the attentions of diva-ish younger sisters of friends dropping by to flirt until the movie ends and they all scooter home, jabbering about escaping to college in Naples . Armani has been coming to the island for years. If you’ve ever wondered about the obsessive rigour of the designer’s palette, it’s all Pantelleria. His thousand shades of black and silver, the boldness, the theatre, it’s here in the rock. His villa overlooks Gadir, a hamlet at the bottom of a cliff where natural hot springs edge a cove by the sea.

Pantelleria is staggeringly elemental. Inside it boils with fumaroles and volcanic springs. When I stayed at the island’s most beautiful hotel, Sikelia, a waiter said to me, ‘Come and see Africa,’ and led me up some steps to the gently domed roof, and then turned with a tremendous flourish to the horizon, which seemed at first to be a dense string of ravingly jumping candle flames. The sun was setting 27 miles to the west over Tunisia. For over an hour the immense spreading redness went on, brutal. Triumphant as an unrepentant martyr roasting on hot coals. Eventually it puffed itself out, leaving the same stunned aura of burnt wicks and smoke at the end of a firework display. Everything is like a knife. Affilato .

When Luca comes to meet me for a few days, we drive the island back and forth in an old Mini Moke-like Citroën Méhari (they’re everywhere here) with grinding back-to-front gears, playing Captain Beefheart on a loop in tribute to Matthias Schoenaerts in A Bigger Splash , who negotiated so sexily the pitted tracks and potholes of the island’s hills, flooring the clutch in trodden-down deck shoes while Tilda Swinton hung off his neck. How do Pantescans differ from other Sicilians, I ask Luca, and he sets his mouth like Empedocles, and nods. ‘In Sicily we always worry we’re about to be screwed. But here it’s more a case of we’re screwed anyway – so relax.’ The flowing fields of capers around us give way to swathes of amber flowers that look like waving hedgerows of Champagne. High above the village of Siba, in caves with natural saunas, we find a whole family sitting inside, steaming away, eating nectarines. And a young soldier who’d come all the way from Rome on a motorbike. The dialect in some of these remoter villages is full of the remnants of pre-Islamic words, which sound like little psalms. Cinciuki – I am soaked by the rain. Milakhi – I feel tired, and thoughtful.

Later, we drive on to the lagoon in the middle of the mountains – the Mirror of Venus – an ancient caldera coloured the outlandish blue of a Himalayan poppy and edged by a few bathers crusted in skin-softening mud, standing still and pensive as herons. The smell of sulphur hangs lightly in the air when we get there and the enfolding circle of hills are covered in crumbling stone terraces. Dipped out of the wind and stretching away 500m in front of us, the warm lake is like a magic carpet so vibrant and unlikely it looks as though some toddlers got together and drew it. We eat hunks of pasta and pancetta still warm from the dawn oven from the Terremoto bakery in Khamma, and go to order Indian-fig granita at the one café on the lake shore. Giant cucuzza are drying along its windowsills, and in the garden bursting spikes of agave grow high as a door.

Sinatra sings ‘Mack the Knife’ somewhere in a parked van and two little boys in superman Y-fronts play frisbee with their brown dog, yelling his name with love – Greco ! Greco ! – all down the dusty track. Heat and dust and friendly lizards. Without the wind, says Luca, you don’t half notice the sun. My friend Irene says she once burned so badly on the island she felt her back might slide off, but her roommate quickly administered a local remedy, covering her all over in slices of raw potato to draw out the heat. When they came off her – near-cooked – the following morning, the skin beneath was soft and healed. This is supremely Pantescan. Hot but verdant. Dry but lush. One time, out in a small boat, the sea was clear to 20 ravishing metres and the land that loomed beyond looked ironbound. By an outcrop called Sirens Cove, the sea moaned against the rocks, like music. The captain produced a hunk of local stone he’d polished, called Pantellerite, black as quartz, and yet at its core another colour flares. ‘See!’ he said, holding it up to the sun and twisting it about, as though it were a just-found gem. ‘See how its heart is green.’

Where to stay in Pantelleria

Converted from what was once an old monastery, this small, mellow and super-detailed hotel is gorgeous. High palm trees cleverly shade a pool that sounds like a river in flow, and Little Richard plays softly in the bar through the early evening as sparkling wine the colour of Somerset cider is served with local tumma cheese and octopus roasted with oregano.

Prices : Doubles from about £330 Telephone : +39 0923 408 120 Website : sikeliapantelleria.com

TENUTA BORGIA

This princely estate studded with seven dammusi-style houses sits on what feels like high ground, the white-crested sea thrumming on the horizon. All around there are vines for home-made passito , and hibiscus, both full-flowered and in bud, flecking the lavish garden.

Prices : Houses (sleeping from two) from about £620 a week Telephone : +39 347 151 6294 Website : tenutaborgia.it

How to get to Pantelleria

Mistral Air operates a service from Palermo in Sicily to Pantelleria ( mistralair.it ). During June , July and August , Alitalia also flies to the island from Milan and Rome ( alitalia.com ).

Scroll down for more beautiful photographs of Pantelleria...

**Like this? Now read:

'A Bigger Splash' is set on Pantelleria **

By Condé Nast Traveller

Sicily holiday ideas

The walled garden at Tenuta Borgia, Pantelleria.

Stairs leading up to the terrace at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

A view from the main courtyard at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Sunset silhouette, Pantelleria.

Anita Bhagwandas

Lily Bonesso

CNT Editors

Becky Lucas

Rumpled linen at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Sculptures and grasses at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

The roof terrace of one of the bedrooms at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Interior styling at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

A swimmer on the coast.

A pool side day bed at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Swimming near Scauri, Pantelleria.

Drytone wall made from volcanic rock.

The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Swimming off the rocks near Arco dell'Elefante, Pantelleria.

View from the walled garden at Tenuta Borgia, Pantelleria.

Artwork hanging above the pool at The Sikelia Hotel, Pantelleria.

Sailing near the Arco dell'Elefante.

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Pantelleria

Pantelleria is a “ black” pearl of rare beauty, an elegant, mysterious and wild Mediterranean island. It is very close to Africa, but the island represents a fascinating and irresistible side of Sicily.

Here are 10 things you shouldn’t miss if you visit Pantelleria!

• Seaside promenade

Pantelleria can be reached by flight or by sea from Trapani . We take a tour of the town in the island’s northern part.

The journey begins with a stroll through the ancient, narrow and cobbled streets. Our hearts beat with a new rhythm, slow and relaxed like the atmosphere around us.

Markets on the streets display colourful and picturesque handicrafts. We see the wooden boats painted blue near the old harbour .

There is a timeless, exotic and familiar beauty in the air. Strolling along the waterfront , we notice the two most symbolic buildings of the town.

• The Castle of Pantelleria

Pantelleria Castle is also called Barbacane Castle due to a misunderstanding. It is near the Old Port , overlooking Piazzale Almanza and Via Borgo Italia .

Chiesa e Castello di Pantelleria – Luce61, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The castle is an intriguing and imposing structure built with lava stone. It was built during the Byzantine era, but it is hard to determine its exact origin. What is certain is that it was a focal point of the island’s historical and political changes.

When the Normans arrived on the island, they built a Donjon (a typical defensive structure consisting of a fortified tower). Inside the Tower, there is a cross carved in the stone. It represents the first symbol of the Christian faith after three centuries of Arab domination.

The most significant change to the castle’s structure occurred in 1535. That year, King Charles V ordered the construction of 37 towers throughout Sicily to counter enemy incursions. He further strengthened the fortress structure.

Under Spanish rule , part of the castle became a prison. We know that also Ferdinand IV of Bourbon was interested in Pantelleria Castle. The king had the bell tower built, with the clock still standing.

We visit the inside to access the old castle dungeons and the round tower.

Don’t forget to enjoy the breathtaking view over the harbour.

• The SS Salvatore Mother Church

It is a unique worship site. The appearance of the Chiesa Madre del Santissimo Salvatore has an architecture that is very different from all other Sicilian churches.

This Church is called “ Matrice ” by the town’s inhabitants. It is a typical “modern church”. In its structure, it connects the architectural and natural elements of the island with the Christian ones. Its aesthetics recall the dammusi , the ancient rural dwellings typical of Pantelleria. The predominant colour is light blue, which evokes the colour of the sea surrounding the island.

Along the whole façade of the Church, there are symmetrical holes. At the top of the building is an Arab dome , behind which is the bell tower . This one, too, is built in the same style as the façade. The Church inside has modern features and several works of art are exhibited, giving a classic touch to the rooms.

• On the archaeological traces of the past

Pantelleria has a central position in the Mediterranean sea. That is why it has always been a crossroads of trades, a meeting point of civilisations, a military outpost and a territory where criminals were confined.

The island’s history dates back to prehistoric times, probably due to the abundant presence of obsidian . The oldest human settlement was some 5000 years. The first population of which there are traces are the Sesioti , a community of farmers and fishermen. They built their village on an inlet overlooking the sea, defended by a lava stone wall. You don’t need a time machine to visit the site; it will be sufficient to reach Contrada Mursia .

The houses and Necropolis of the Sesioti are very well preserved. Characteristics of these cemeteries are the extraordinary megalithic constructions known as “ Sesi ”.

Pantelleria was first conquered by the Greeks and then by the Phoenicians , who built the harbour and started the cultivation of tree vines .

Pantelleria had a leading role in another chapter of Mediterranean history. During the Second Punic War , the Romans conquered Cossyra, the ancient city founded by Carthage in the second half of the 13th century BC.

On the hills of San Marco and Santa Teresa , we visit the Punic-Roman acropolis . Here we see traces of the forum, the city walls, the public buildings and the cisterns for water supply, covered in cocciopesto. The three imperial portraits of Caesar, Antonia Minor and Titus were found on the same site and are on exhibition at Pantelleria Castle .

• Pantelleria Bays

Before diving into the sea, let’s take a boat trip around Pantelleria to admire exclusive and striking views that we cannot see from land.

Pantelleria is an island that offers happy holidays to families and children. Shallow waters, smooth rocks, natural pools. Depending on our needs, we will find the best beaches. Of course, the aim is to visit as many as possible.

Cala Gadir is famous for its underwater archaeology route and because it is easily accessible from the town centre. But the most famous beach on the island is Bue Marino , a perfect destination for families and children .

Arco dell’elefante – ph I. Mannarano

In Nika , the water temperature changes suddenly. We can take an unforgettable bath in warm sea waters. And if we are looking for natural wellness , we will find all the information we need.

• Pantelleria Lakes

Specchio di Venere – Ph. Mannarano

The Laghetto delle Ondine is a small lake between the rocks. Its waters come from the Mediterranean Sea. It is in Punta Spadillo , below the island’s lighthouse, and is easily reachable by car. Here there is a natural basin fed by the waves, and it is possible to bathe even when the sea is rough. The water temperature is warm all year round.

• Trekking in Pantelleria

One of the best ways to discover Pantelleria is on foot, with the slow pace of trekking . To explore the island’s secrets, we have to walk in the countryside . It is here that we find the typical Pantelleria gardens and dammusi . While walking, we can come across ancient archaeological sites and underwater archaeological routes . It is also possible to visit wineries and admire breathtaking scenery such as the famous Arch of the Elephant . This natural arch is on the island’s eastern coast.

Hiking – Ph Mannarano

On the southern side of the island, there’s the Balata dei Turchi . This magnific inlet is located among dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters and wonderful seabed. Its name let us think of the Scala dei Turchi . Indeed, La Balata dei Turchi was also used as a landing place by Turkish pirates. The road to reach it is long and steep, but it is well worth the effort.

• Giardini Panteschi

Exploring the island of Pantelleria, we will notice the Pantelleria Gardens . They are ancient constructions built to protect plants and crops from the strong winds blowing on the Pelagie Islands. The gardens are made of lava stone and have a circular plan. They are built dry  and the art of dry stone walling is a UNESCO World Heritage Site .

Depending on their function and use, Pantelleria gardens can be up to three metres high and contain citrus fruits, vines or dates. Among the most famous is the Pantesco Garden at Donnafugata, considered the most magnificent on the island.

• Staying overnight in a Dammuso

Dammuso – ph Mannarano

• Pantelleria wine and food

Zibibbo di Pantelleria – Ph Mannarano

Pantelleria’s gastronomy comes from the exchanges and influences of the various peoples who inhabited the island. One of the most famous dishes is bitter ravioli , filled with ricotta and mint leaves. Also worth mentioning is the delicious Pantelleria pesto , a dressing made from raw tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, basil and chilli pepper. This sauce is a perfect dressing for pasta, roast fish or boiled meat.

From Africa comes the fish couscous . It is always prepared with different vegetables and legumes and is usually served as a main dish. From the East comes the traditional Easter cake : cannateddro . Mustazzola , on the other hand, is a simple pastry filled with a mixture of semolina, honey or cooked wine, cinnamon, candied orange peel and other spices.

La raccolta dei capperi – Ph Mannarano

Dates and olives are among the best qualities in the whole Mediterranean. The caper is the real star of the island. It is a PGI product grown on terraces made of dry stone walls , is picked between May and September and preserved in sea salt. A real delicacy!

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Things to Do in Pantelleria, Italy - Pantelleria Attractions

Things to do in pantelleria, explore popular experiences, top attractions in pantelleria.

What travelers are saying

• Lago di Venere
• Balata dei Turchi
• Laghetto delle Ondine
• Bagno Asciutto
• Cantina Basile
• Arco dell'Elefante
• Ammirando Pantelleria

Travel Info for Pantelleria

Best time to go to pantelleria and how to get there.

• Places to stay
• Insider's Guide
• Travel Info

Pantelleria: When to Go

Pantelleria has a Mediterranean climate and year-round winds. Summer (June-September) is sizzling, with clear skies and little chance of rain. Winter is wetter and cooler. Shoulder seasons are an ideal time to visit: hikers come in spring (March-May) or autumn (October), or if you'd prefer to watch grape-harvesting in action, then come in September.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Getting there.

By Air: Pantelleria Airport (19km) receives daily flights from Palermo and Trapani and twice-weekly flights from Catania. In summer, there are also direct flights from Milan, Rome and other Italian cities. By Boat: Overnight ferries run year-round between Trapani and the port of Pantelleria. In summer, a hydrofoil runs daily, taking just over 2 hours.

Getting Around

You'll need to hire a car to explore the island's narrow roads.

Life in Italy, Italian Language, Italian Culture, Italy News, Tourism News, Italian Food

Pantelleria

If you are looking forward to having an enjoyable vacation on a lovely island with natural surroundings, then Pantelleria off the island of Sicily is a good choice. Pantelleria is located at around 30 miles from Africa and belongs to the province of Trapani, which is among the southernmost parts of Europe. This place is known for its natural hot springs, fantastic sea view and was formed as a result of volcanic eruptions . People come here to view the natural coastline of this region, its pristine beauty that is surrounded with lot of caves, grottos and inlets.

Pantelleria has a lot of Arab influence seen in the way houses are constructed such as the Dammuso, which are made using square stones. Thus, there is a cultural mix of Arabian and Sicilian ways of life observed here in Pantelleria with hilly countryside comprising of these Dammuso homes. Most of the buildings have been built after the Second World War so they are not very old. The Castle of Barbacane is the oldest among all the buildings seen here, which existed even during the pre war period.

Pantelleria Places of Interest

Specchio di Venere

This is a lake formed due to its volcanic origin with thermal springs draining its waters into it. According to an ancient belief, Venus saw her reflection in this lake while comparing her beauty with the opponent, Psyche. Specchio di Venere is one of the main attractions of Pantelleria and visited by numerous tourists.

Neolithic village

Here one can find craters of ancient origin along with low stone field boundary walls with mounds of rubble known as the Sese Grande. This structure resembles a tower arising from a block of huge elliptical base of lava blocks covered with a decorative lodge and making its way to the top. Besides, there are 12 entrances in the form of passages linking it to the tombs, where the dead bodies were placed with the head pointing towards the western direction.

Montagna Grande

Montagna Grande is the highest point on this volcanic island where at 2743 foot high, one can get excellent views of this island. The mountain comprises of a natural park with various plants and species of different kinds along with lovely rock formations. Right from the town of Tracino towards the sea, the rock formations resembles the form of elephant trunk and hence it is referred to as the “elephant trunk arch”.

You can visit this place to catch a glimpse of the scenic harbor view along with the waters of the hot spring. There are some excellent views that one can have from the cemetery.

In this fishing village, there is a gorge of lava, where the rocks lie at a close distance through which many hot springs arise. As you walk back into the coastal road, near to the Rekhale junction, there are some villages that have still retained the dammusi and the Pantelleria gardens in the original form. When you come back to the coast, there is a steep drop to the sea where you can see Saltalavecchia, which is a village, located on the cliff at the highest point.

In this small harbor, one can come across fishes springing from the thermal waters and at a short distance from here, there is a path that leads to the lighthouse. As you follow the path downhill among the stone lava walls, there is a lake of waves surrounded by huge cliffs along with volcanic rock formations. The scenic beauty of this place attracts the visitors coming to this place.

Activities around Pantelleria

There are plenty of boat tours offered here for the entertainment of the tourists, and some delicious food and wine is served on the onboard journey. From across the sea, you can get a wonderful glimpse of the scenic beauty of this region and see the volcanic land on the sea. The charge per person is around 35 euros.

You can also visit many thermal pools found across this region of Pantelleria. Monestro is a good place where you can find natural thermal pools and lot of wonderful views can be had from here. Santaria is also a hot thermal pool found within a cave and it is believed to be the love nest of Calypso and Ulysses.

Getting to Pantelleria

There are different travel options available for reaching Pantelleria and you can choose ferry services from Trapani in Sicily along with hydrofoils that offer such overnight trips. You may be able to find regular flight services from Trapani and Palermo as well with close connectivity to the island of Pantelleria. If you are in Rome or Milan, then there are direct flights that fly to Pantelleria.

Getting Around Pantelleria

If you want to move and see different places around this island, then the best way is to hire a moped, which is most suited for individual travelers. For others, the best option would be to make use of the bus services to have a look around the place.

Eating and drinking

There are la ot of Sicilian bars offering snacks and tasty wine amidst a lovely ambience in Pantelleria. Besides, you must taste the popular wine-Passito- which is served in most of the restaurants. It is an ancient wine, which is available locally in this region. Besides, there are also some good restaurants that serve delicious food along with a blend of the local cuisines and other international flavors.

Hotels and accommodation

There are a lot of good hotels and accommodation facilities available for the tourists for staying individually or along with family members. You can come across 3 star hotels and 5 star hotels offering luxurious stay and living with good service offered to the customers. There are plenty of hotels offering a good scenic view of the harbor along with facilities such as tennis courts, private beach and a swimming pool to cater to the needs of different travelers.

By Irene Tischenko

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Pantelleria: A photo tour of the idyllic island in Italy 

By Jade Simon

With the arrival of Spring, photographer Bastien Lattanzio revealed a beautiful travel book about Pantelleria , a sunny, wild island in Italy , where he captured some incredible shots of its wonderful landscapes. We asked him for tips, and about his favorite spots on the island.

L'Arco dell’Elefante  

Bastien Lattanzio : “On the East coast, this lava rock diving into the sea is one of the wonders of the island. You can jump from it, or float in the natural pool created by the currents. I recommend wearing diving shoes to protect your feet against the sharp rocks."

L'Arco dell’Elefante on Pantelleria

The restaurant Il Principe e il Pirata  

“ Il Principe et il Pirata is the best restaurant on the island. Its terrasse offers beautiful sea views, and the menu is incredible: a famous coucous with octopus, or a Bacio PAntesco, a typical dessert that resembles a waffle stuffed with ricotta. It is also known for its assortment of crudo, with 6 fish or other seafood gathered on a slate. It's delicious. Of course, let's not forget its wine menu, offering local wines and Violas of Sicily. I recommend eating a long lunch here, and hosting dinner at home or at a friend's at night, cooking pasta with sausages and fennel for example.”

By Frédérique Verley

By Julia Hobbs

By Dodie Kazanjian

Restaurant Il Principe e il Pirata on Pantelleria 

Tenuta Borgia

“The houses on the island are called Dammusi. They're one-floor villas made of lava rock, with the center of the room being enhanced, so you can tan on the roof. My favorite house is Tenuta Borgia , a private community of 5/6 chic Dammusi. The film A Bigger Splash by Luca Guadagnino   was filmed there. "

Tenuta Borgia on Pantelleria 

The seaside

“The view is beautiful everywhere on the island, the sea is infinite. The beauty is almost overwhelming at the end of the day when the sun falls into the sea. Watch the show on the roof of a Dammuso with some wine and friend.”

Pantelleria 

Tanca Nica  

“A small domain of organic wine founded by Franceso et Nicoletta. To buy some, I had to contact the couple and go to the church of their village. Francesco picked me up in his old Fiat and we went to his 3 hectares vines to taste his red, white, and my favorite, the PetNat “Ghirbi”. They produce 3000 bottles a year, preferably drunk on the island. We have become friends, and Nicoletta, who paints the bottles, created the logo for the cover of my book.”

Tanca Nica 

“In the port of Scauri, the second city of the island, there is a small fishermen's bar, where, after a boat trip, they come to drink a well-deserved fresh negroni. The military net is used as a pergola and we sit on the steps of the pier, enjoying life.”

Kaya Kaya in Pantelleria 

The lago di Venere

"La lago di Venere or Venus lake is one of the unmissable sights of the island. Its mud is wonderful and renders the skin very soft."

Le lago di Venere in Pantelleria 

Get the book Pantelleria by Bastien Lattanzio here

"Pantelleria" by Bastien Lattanzio

Translated by Maria Atallah

• Pantelleria

Sicily, Italy

• Ferry Tickets
• Destinations

Pantelleria is a beautiful volcanic island located between Africa and Europe. Closer to the Tunisian coast than Sicily, Pantelleria is an oasis of tranquility putting a spell on its visitors.

On Ferryhopper, you will find useful information about the beaches, gastronomic delights, and ferries to/from Pantelleria. Check out all the available routes and book your ferry tickets online easily and quickly !

Typical windows with hanging bunches of cherry tomatoes

Vacation in Pantelleria

If you are looking for a holiday destination away from the daily routine’s frenetic pace, Pantelleria is the best place to go. Imagine being surrounded by unspoiled nature while enjoying the spectacular sunsets by the sea.

Its jagged coast alongside the island’s eventful history is only a few of the things that make you fall in love with Pantelleria. Its stunning views , the crystalline waters, and the wild hiking trails surrounded by greenery are perfect for a trip with family, friends, and couples.

Besides, it is no secret that Pantelleria is a top destination for a romantic holiday in Italy  as many couples choose the island for their honeymoon.

Therefore, the "Black Pearl of the Mediterranean" welcomes you all year round with its mild temperatures and its warm-hearted inhabitants.

How to get to Pantelleria?

You can get to Pantelleria by ferry or plane . Ferries and hydrofoils to Pantelleria leave from the town of Trapani in Sicily operating all year round. The f astest ferry route to Pantelleria takes about 2.5 hours . You can also find more information about the ferry connections and schedules to Pantelleria.

Pantelleria also has an airport that is connected with some Sicilian cities during the winter and with various destinations in Italy in the summer months .

The lighthouse of Punta Spadillo surrounded by greenery

What to do in Pantelleria

Pantelleria offers many things to do and see to its visitors. Among lava stone coves , volcanic lakes, thermal springs , and trekking routes you will be spoiled for choice. Not to mention the depths of the island and its caves, all to be discovered by sea.

Also, try the local cuisine , buy the most famous products, and discover all the secrets of Pantelleria in a wine tasting ! Still not convinced? Read on to discover the best of Pantelleria.

Beaches in Pantelleria

Pantelleria coasts are made up of rocks and lava stone with numerous spots perfect for snorkeling and deep dives.

Here you can find the top 6 beaches in Pantelleria:

• Levante : this bay sheltered from the winds is located on the east coast. The coast is also family-friendly as it has shallow waters. There, you can relax and sunbathe surrounded by greenery. To get there, you should first arrive at Tracino, take the exit for the beach of Levante, and park along the coast.
• Bue Marino : very close to the center of Pantelleria, the beach of Bue Marino Basso is famous for its emerald waters. There, you can find a parking area, a bar and comfortable platforms to lie down and enjoy sunbathing. The right side of the coast is great for families with small children thanks to its crystalline, shallow waters. On the other side and only a few minutes walking away, you can reach Bue Marino Alto, a beautiful gulf with breathtaking views and deep waters perfect for diving.
• Lido Shurhuq : if you are looking for services and amenities, this is the right place for you. Located in the town of Suvaki, the beach of Shurhuq offers a lot of amenities from umbrellas and sun loungers to restaurants and a play area for children. Plus, it’s 100% pet-friendly.
• Martingana : this natural bay is located on the south-east side with an amazing seabed and lava stone rocks. Therefore, it’s better to have a pair of water shoes with you to avoid the unpleasant feeling of cutting yourself from the rocks. Nearby you can find a small town and a beautiful area filled with vineyards. 
• Mòdica : located in Mursia, Mòdica is a beach with shallow waters and smooth rocks. Its waters are perfect for snorkeling and easily accessible for everyone. It can be reached by taking a dirt road and then continuing on foot for about 10 minutes. The area has no services but there is a hotel nearby.
• Balata dei Turchi : it is situated in the southern part of the island and it is a fascinating inlet born from a lava flow. The whole bay is surrounded by 300-meter-high cliffs and the landscape is wild. To reach it on foot it is necessary to take a bumpy road, but you’re going to be well rewarded when you finally get to the beach.

The impressive rock formations of Balata dei Turchi in Pantelleria

Sightseeing in Pantelleria

Pantelleria has a rich history dating back to the Neolithic Age. Therefore, the island is full of archaeological sites and museums but also stunning natural attractions.

Here are some of the 11 best places to visit during your stay in Pantelleria:

• The Arch of the Elephant , an iconic rock formation in the shape of a proboscis
• The Medieval Castle of Pantelleria , made of lava stone and used as a prison until 1975
• The Sesi Archaeological Park , extraordinary megalithic constructions present in the area of ​​Mursia and Cimillia
• The area of Gadìr , famous for its thermal baths
• The Ondine Lake , a small saltwater pond nestled among the rocks
• The Pantelleria gardens , traditional lava stone enclosures where citrus trees are grown
• The picturesque little port of Scauri , perfect at sunset
• The Lighthouse of Punta Spadillo , surrounded by greenery
• The Caper Museum , dedicated to the agricultural culture of Pantelleria
• The Volcanological Museum , located in the Punta Spadillo area
• The Mirror of Venus , a beautiful volcanic lake famous for its thermal springs

Extra info : according to the legend, Venus used to mirror herself in the waters of this lake making herself beautiful before meeting her beloved Bacchus.

The Mirror of Venus, a lake with an enchanting beauty

Nightlife in Pantelleria

Despite being a quiet island, Pantelleria transforms into a vibrant scene during the summer months.

Most of the clubs are located in the center of Pantelleria and in the Scauri area . However, you can always find bars and restaurants scattered throughout the island.

Sipping an aperitif after work is one of the favorite moments for locals and visitors. Besides, who doesn't love to enjoy a drink at sunset, right? In fact, among the most popular clubs, there are La Nicchia and Sesiventi, which also organizes evenings with DJ sets .

A must-do experience in Pantelleria is also a visit to the local cellars accompanied by various wine tastings. As for the discos, the Altamarea Club will make you dance until the first light just a step away from the sea.

Food in Pantelleria

Pantelleria cuisine is simple and tasty and mostly follows the Mediterranean diet. Influenced by the culinary traditions of nearby Tunisia  but also by Sicily, the main ingredients of the local cuisine are vegetables, fruits, and fresh fish all accompanied by a glass of local wine Zibibbo .

Here are some delicacies to try during your trip to Pantelleria:

• Pantesca salad (with potatoes, tomatoes, capers, olives, and onions)
• bitter ravioli (stuffed with ricotta and mint)
• spaghetti with anchovies
• fish couscous
• fried moray eel
• tumma (local white cheese)
• dried tomatoes
• caper (a PGI-certified product)
• mustazzoli biscuits, cookies filled with semolina and almonds.
• baci panteschi (pancakes filled with ricotta cream)
• Passito di Pantelleria DOC (local wine)

Here are 4 useful tips for your trip to Pantelleria: 

• If you love trekking, you should know that Pantelleria has a mountain of 836 meters with numerous hiking trails to explore. Enter the paths of the Montagna Grande and reach its top to admire the beautiful African sunsets!
• Visit the island out of season and experience the magic of Pantelleria Carnival ! This festival lasts 3 months (from New Year's Eve to Shrove Tuesday) involving all age groups.
• Make sure to book a boat excursion to admire the coast of Pantelleria and its caves.
• Be sure to pack comfortable clothing and water shoes .

The coast of Pantelleria, home to a myriad of sea caves!

Useful information about Pantelleria

Pantelleria belongs to the municipality of Trapani with about 7,500 inhabitants. It doesn't belong to any archipelago and its  mild climate makes it perfect at any time of the year.

Pantelleria offers various services and activities for its visitors, and fun is also guaranteed. Given the size of the island, we advise you to stay at least 4-5 days to visit it at its best.

The accommodation options are numerous, and you can choose between hotels, B&Bs, villas, and holiday homes. An experience not to be missed in Pantelleria could be to stay overnight in a dammuso . These traditional stone houses are truly unique and offer beautiful views over the Mediterranean.

If you want to buy some souvenirs in Pantelleria, you should focus on local food products (such as capers and wine), but also on hand-painted ceramics.

As for  health care , the Pantelleria hospital is located near the city center and about 2 km from the port. There are also  4 pharmacies on the island located both north and south.

Important phone numbers for your stay in Pantelleria

Here are some numbers that may come in handy during your island getaway:

• Municipality of Pantelleria: +390923695011
• Medical guard: +390923910266
• Emergency Department: +390923911110
• Port Authority: +390923911027
• Municipal Police: +390923912705
• European emergency number: 112

Transportation in Pantelleria

Pantelleria has an area of about 83 km 2 , so you need a vehicle to move around the island. The best way to get around Pantelleria is by car , also because many paths leading to the coves are not paved.

You can also rent a moped or an electric bike, but you have to bear in mind that the roads are mostly uphill and downhill.

Local buses are managed by Marsala Travel Bus and connect the Pantelleria Center with the various districts and the airport.

As for taxis , there aren't many of them, but some Pantelleria car rentals also guarantee this service.

The white houses of Pantelleria and the typical terraces of the island

Ports in Pantelleria

The main port of Pantelleria is located in the northwestern part of the island and is divided into 2 areas : the old port and the new port .

The old port is mostly home to fishing boats while the new port welcomes ferries and hydrofoils from Trapani .

The port area is quite close to the town and some of the island's attractions, such as the medieval castle. The port of Pantelleria is also about 5 km from the airport .

The second port of the island is the  Scauri port , which is located between Punta Pietre and Cala Nikà. It offers some services, such as bars, restaurants, and boat rentals to better explore the coast of the island.

Pantelleria: ferries, schedules and tickets

Ferries to Pantelleria depart from the port of Trapani  in western Sicily and are operated all year round .

The Trapani - Pantelleria ferry route is operated seasonally by Liberty Lines  and Siremar . The trips are active once a day and the crossing can last 2.5 hours or 7.5 hours, depending on the ferry operator and the type of vessel.

As for the ticket price for the Trapani - Pantelleria ferry crossing , the fares start at €37 and the costs vary depending on the period and the company.

If you want to travel with your car on the ferry to Pantelleria, you should know that only Siremar ferries carry motor vehicles. However, you can rent a car or motorbike on the island of Pantelleria from the various local agencies.

The port of Pantelleria

Book your ferry tickets to Pantelleria online

Check our Map of ferries to find all the information you need about ferries to Pantelleria, compare companies, trip duration and ticket prices, and organize your trip to the island of Pantelleria easily and quickly . 

Pantelleria ferry timetable

View the complete ferry schedule from and to Pantelleria for the upcoming week. Find up-to-date trip information, including departure and arrival dates and times, ferry operators and ticket prices.

Frequent ferry connections

Nearby destinations, pantelleria has direct ferry connections to 1 ports :.

The Best Time to Visit Pantelleria, Italy for Weather, Safety, & Tourism

The best times to visit Pantelleria for ideal weather are

March 12th to June 10th

based on average temperature and humidity from NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Read below for more weather and travel details.

Pantelleria Travel Guide

Temperature.

• Perceived Temperature
• Rain and snow
• Humidity and wind
• The busiest and least popular months
• Overall travel experience by time of year

Other Pantelleria Travel Info

Weather in pantelleria.

Average temperatures in Pantelleria vary greatly. Considering humidity, temperatures feel nice most of the year, excluding some hot weeks in the summer, with a low chance of precipitation most of the year. The area is more temperate than most — in the 64th percentile for pleasant weather — compared to tourist destinations worldwide. Weeks with ideal weather are listed above . If you’re looking for the very warmest time to visit Pantelleria, the hottest months are August, July, and then September. See average monthly temperatures below. The warmest time of year is generally mid to late August where highs are regularly around 87.1°F (30.6°C) with temperatures rarely dropping below 75.5°F (24.2°C) at night.

Pantelleria Temperatures (Fahrenheit)

Pantelleria temperatures (celsius), “feels-like” temperatures.

The way we experience weather isn’t all about temperature. Higher temperatures affect us much more at higher humidity, and colder temperatures feel piercing with high winds. Our perceived temperatures factor in humidity and wind chill to better represent how hot or cold the day feels to a person.

Pantelleria Perceived Temperature (F)

Pantelleria perceived temperature (c), average pantelleria temperatures by month.

Daily highs (averaged for the month) usually give the best indication of the weather. A significantly lower mean and low generally just means it gets colder at night.

Show Fahrenheit

Show celsius, precipitation (rain or snow).

If dry weather is what you’re after, the months with the lowest chance of significant precipitation in Pantelleria are July, June, and then August. Note that we define “significant precipitation” as .1 inches or more in this section. The lowest chance of rain or snow occurs around early to mid June. For example, on the week of June 11th there are no days of precipitation on average. By contrast, it’s most likely to rain or snow in early March with an average of 3 days of significant precipitation the week of March 5th.

Chance of Precipitation

The graph below shows the % chance of rainy and snowy days in Pantelleria.

Snow on the Ground

The graph below shows the average snow on the ground in Pantelleria (in).

Average Rain and Snow by Month

Show inches, show centimeters, humidity and wind.

Pantelleria has some very humid months, and above average humidity throughout the year. The least humid month is June (64.5% relative humidity), and the most humid month is October (77.3%).

Wind in Pantelleria is usually moderate . The windiest month is December, followed by March and February. December’s average wind speed of around 12.6 knots (14.6 MPH or 23.4 KPH) is considered “a moderate breeze.” Maximum sustained winds (the highest speed for the day lasting more than a few moments) are at their highest in early to mid December where average top sustained speeds reach 19.3 knots, which is considered a fresh breeze.

Relative Humidity (%)

The graph below shows the average % humidity by month in Pantelleria.

The graph below shows wind speed (max and average) in knots.

Average Wind Speeds

Show wind speeds.

All wind speeds are in knots. 1 knot = 1.15 MPH or 1.85 KPH.

Show Relative Humidity by Month

Is it safe to travel to pantelleria.

Our best data indicates this area is generally safe. As of Dec 04, 2023 there are no travel advisories or warnings for Italy; exercise normal security precautions. Check this page for any recent changes or regions to avoid: Travel Advice and Advisories . This advisory was last updated on Nov 22, 2023.

The Busiest and Least Crowded Months

The busiest month for tourism in Pantelleria, Italy is April, followed by May and February. Prices for hotels and flights will be most expensive during these months, though you can save if you purchase well in advance. Tourists are unlikely to visit Pantelleria in November. Those willing to visit at these times will likely find it the least expensive month.

Estimated Tourism by Month

Most popular months to visit, overall pantelleria travel experience by season, spring (march through may).

Humidity and temperatures combine to make this season feel moderate. Highs range from 73.9°F (23.3°C) and 57.6°F (14.2°C) with warmer temperatures in the later months. Rain is rare with 1 to 6 days of significant precipitation per month. Spring is the second busiest for tourism, which makes it a good time for those looking for things to do.

Summer (June through August)

The middle-year months have very comfortable weather with high temperatures that are comfortable. These months see the least precipitation with 0 to 1 days of precipitation per month. June – August is fairly slow season for tourism in Pantelleria, so lodging and other accommodations may cost slightly less.

Fall (September through November)

Fall daily highs range from 84.2°F (29°C) and 63.6°F (17.6°C), which will feel very nice given the humidity and wind. It rains or snows a significant amount: 3 to 5 days per month. Tourism is the slowest during these months due to the weather, so hotels may be affordably priced.

Winter (December through February)

Weather is somewhat cool this time of year in Pantelleria to be enjoyable for warm weather travelers. The average high during this season is between 61.2°F (16.2°C) and 55.9°F (13.3°C). On average, it rains or snows a fair amount: 7 to 8 times per month. These times of year are the busiest with tourists.

Best Times to Travel › Italy › Pantelleria, Italy

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How a millennial Lyft driver used the gig to travel to all 50 states, launch a food blog, and get started on a book

• Kreskin J. Torres, a Lyft driver, has traveled across all 50 states, documenting his dining experiences.
• Torres is working on a book, an app called Rideshare Foodies, and is organizing a national potluck.
• He said gig driving is just temporary and has helped him achieve his larger goals.

Kreskin J. Torres, 35, has eaten his way through all 50 states — including Alaska and Hawaii. His ticket to doing so? Driving for Uber and Lyft .

The Army veteran and Baltimore native has documented his dining on his blog Rideshare Foodie . After seven years, he's learned the most profitable times of day to drive, the best locations to find riders in each city and the optimal strategies for maximizing tips .

"You just got to work smarter, not harder," Torres said. "From my experience, I've been in every state, so I know how every city works now."

At the same time, he's been able to pursue his foodie passions. Torres is now working on a book called "Taste of the States," his recommendations app called Rideshare Foodies, and planning a series of events to honor dishes from various states and their history.

While driving for ride-hailing services like Uber and Lyft can be a flexible way to earn money for people like Torres who have more than one hustle, it can also be a recipe for burnout. Among the dozens of drivers Business Insider has spoken with over the past few months, many are already dreaming of what's next — starting a business or finding new modes of employment .

And that's Torres' main career advice for those considering it. After all, he's not planning to do the job forever, as he hopes to transition away, though it helped him jump-start new paths for his future.

"Do not make this the end all be all," Torres said, noting how Uber and Lyft have threatened to pull out of Minneapolis. "When it started, it was advertised as a gig, a side hustle."

Traveling the country as a gig driver

As a veteran, he said this job has been relatively stress-free and helpful for not feeling lonely, a similar sentiment he's heard from veterans with PTSD.

"I enjoy meeting and connecting with different people and getting to see different places," Torres said.

He decided to spend his next few years on the road using driving to fund his adventures and to meet locals who could point him to the best restaurants and experiences.

"The great thing is you get to learn about different cities and how everything operates," Torres said.

Related stories

He moved to San Antonio , though he works mainly around the more-profitable Austin area, and has explored the South and Southeast.

While he doesn't make much money from his blog, he said driving has allowed him to try everything from Navajo tacos in Arizona to biscuits in chocolate gravy in Arkansas to huckleberry swirls in Montana. Driving has led him to some of his favorite restaurants like I693 Red Zone Grill in Jackson, Mississippi; Strawberry's BBQ in Holcomb, Missouri; and Rice & Roll by Xing Xing in Wichita.

Learning the most profitable places and times to drive

Torres noticed he would get more profitable rides driving around suburbs, airports, and sports stadiums, locations coveted by drivers as they get more tips and sometimes elevated fares.

He learned New Year's will always be profitable , though rides slow down around February before picking up in mid-March. It's led him to be more methodical about the types of rides to take, as well as planning when to save more of his earnings and when to splurge a little on food and travel.

"After seven years, I'm a lot more experienced. It depends on the time of the season, so I usually can do a lot more business in college towns," Torres said. "I would visit a city, see what they're known for, a little history behind it."

Torres was making enough to comfortably travel the country, though he's always been careful since he said passengers are sometimes confused by his out-of-state license plate. He also faced a permanent deactivation from Uber last year over a dispute over the color of his car.

He doesn't have a wife or kids, nor does he have an apartment, as he mainly lives out of his car to save money. He acknowledges that growing competition on the road and lower earnings could put a greater dent in savings for people with families or permanent residences.

Torres has transitioned to driving full-time for Lyft , and he typically is online for 12 hours a day but only actively drives five to six hours in between waiting around airports.

He said he's increasingly put himself in his passengers' shoes to determine the best places and times to drive — he likely won't put in the effort to drive during rain, and he's more likely to do later trips around concert venues or bars.

To continue supporting his travels, he said he sometimes does airport rides at 3 or 4 a.m., as well as rides between 6:30 a.m. and 10 a.m. during the morning rush. He also said being online around noon is fruitful for corporate workers, while 3 p.m. is right when schools let out. He usually tries not to drive around evening rush hours but sometimes resumes later at night.

He also devotes more time to driving between Wednesday and Sunday, when rides are more frequent, whether for "whiskey Wednesdays" or Friday afternoon happy hours. This is also when he can best network with passengers and hear their stories, as he said he occasionally gets to drive famous people.

Torres said drivers should consider this a short-term opportunity while working toward long-term goals. As he eases off the app, he has his eyes set on more international travel in the coming months. He's also investing more time in his food app, a local recommendation tool that functions like a Facebook group in which people ask questions about, for example, the best bartender in the area or where to go for particular dishes. It has launched on Android and set to be released on Apple by the summer.

"The most positivity that you can get out of it, do whatever you can and get the most out of it," Torres said. "The next few months will probably be my last time doing this because I'm focusing on other things, so I always had a plan for the things I was going to do."

Are you a ride-hailing driver who's struggling to pay bills or has had recent success? Have you recently pivoted to a new career from driving? Reach out to  [email protected] .

Watch: How truck driving became one of the worst jobs in the US

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Mount Ruang Erupts in Indonesia, Spewing Lava Thousands of Feet Into the Sky

Hundreds of earthquakes were detected in the weeks preceding the eruption of the volcano in North Sulawesi province. Hundreds of people were evacuated.

By Christine Hauser

Mount Ruang, a volcano in Indonesia, erupted on Tuesday, spewing fiery lava and ash thousands of feet into the night sky and forcing the evacuation of hundreds of people in the North Sulawesi province, according to the authorities and local news reports.

The volcano erupted at about 7:19 p.m. local time, Antara, the national news agency, reported. The country’s National Disaster Mitigation Agency said on Wednesday that more than 800 people in nearby villages were displaced by the eruption, many using ferries and taking shelter in churches and community centers.

The authorities said supplies such as mats, blankets, cleaning materials, and tents were needed, and that more shelters might be opening for people fleeing the volcano.

Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago nation. It is spread across what is known as the Ring of Fire, where tectonic plates clash under the surface of the Pacific Ocean and spawn earthquakes and eruptions from volcanoes.

Mount Ruang is a stratovolcano , or a steep, conical volcano that has built up over years in layers from explosive eruptions of lava, rock fragments, ash and other properties.

“It is in a part of the world where there are a lot of active volcanoes,” said Dr. Tracy K.P. Gregg , who chairs the geology department at the University at Buffalo.

Its last major eruption was in 2002, when the column of lava and ash that it spewed reached up to 17 miles, Dr. Gregg said.

She said the volcano in 2002 measured 4, a “large” volcano on the Volcanic Explosivity Index, a scale used to measure the strength of an eruption by looking at several factors, such as duration, ash volume and plume height. Mount Pinatubo in the Philippines in 1991 measured 6 on the index. Mount St. Helens in the United States in 1980 measured 5.

“So it is a little bit smaller than that,” she said of Mount Ruang. Right now, it is not as violent as the previous eruption, she added, but the volcano cannot be fully assessed while it is in progress.

More than 300 volcanic earthquakes were detected over a period of at least two weeks preceding the eruption of Mount Ruang.

It is not immediately clear why the volcano erupted when it did. “Every volcano has its own personality,” she said.

In the past few years, several volcanoes in Indonesia have erupted. In December, 2023, the bodies of 11 hikers were found on the slopes of Mount Marapi on the island of Sumatra, after an eruption that spewed an ash column of nearly 3,000 meters — about 10,000 feet high.

In December 2022, more than 1,900 people were evacuated from the area surrounding Mount Semeru as it erupted. In an eruption there the previous December , more than 50 people were killed and hundreds more were injured.

Christine Hauser is a reporter, covering national and foreign news. Her previous jobs in the newsroom include stints in Business covering financial markets and on the Metro desk in the police bureau. More about Christine Hauser