sharr travel dhermi

Wander-Lush

Guide to Dhermi, the Loveliest Village on the Albanian Riviera

Dangling off the side of the Ceraunian Mountains like a string of pearls, Dhërmi is a dreamy village of whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches.

With strong Santorini vibes, it is widely regarded as the most charming settlement on the Albanian Riviera.

Dhermi is located between Vlora and Himara. Approaching from the north, it is one of the first villages you reach after descending towards the sea via the spectacular Llogara Pass.

It is perfectly positioned for exploring the northern portion of the riviera and popular Albanian beaches including Gjipe and Jala, as well as the town’s own beach, Dhërmiu.

Unlike other villages such as Qeparo and Vuno, Dhermi has been partially reconstructed, giving the old stone houses and Greek Orthodox churches a fresh lease on life. A multitude of boutique accommodations can be found here, along with restaurants and cafes.

Dhermi is one of the few places on the riviera where there are enough alternative activities beyond the beach to comfortably fill a day.

In this Dhermi Travel Guide, I will show you all the best things to do in Dhermi in 1-2 days, where to stay, where to eat, and other travel tips.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Why visit Dhermi?

It was a photograph of a stunning blue-domed church that first put Dhermi on my radar. When planning our Albania road trip , I wanted to dedicate at least two nights to the village. (As a side note, I connected with the author of that photograph on social media after my trip – small world!)

Dhermi’s good looks do indeed set it apart from other villages on the riviera. Extensive conservation works – the likes of which have been planned for nearby Qeparo and Vuno, but are yet to commence – have transformed Dhermi.

Not only is it one of the best places in Albania to see vernacular terraced architecture, Dhermi is a cultural experience too. Rehabilitation and revitalisation projects have aimed to honour Dhermi’s history, and there are several initiatives that teach visitors about the village and its way of life.

One of these initiatives is the Mills Trail, a historic hiking path that links the village with the coast, which has been redeveloped into an immersive experience with the use of signboards.

Among locals, Dhermi is still called by its Greek name, Drymades. Most inhabitants are ethnically Greek and speak the Greek Himariote dialect and/or the Tosk Albanian dialect.

As I mentioned, Dhermi has a lot to offer beyond the beaches. We spent two nights in Dhermi and found this was the perfect amount of time. A full day can be spent exploring the village and walking the trail. If you’re visiting in the season, you might wish to add another day for the beach.

How to get to Dhermi

Dhermi is located on Albania’s main State Highway 8 that runs down the coast. It is approximately 60 kilometres from Vlora and 70 kilometres from Saranda.

Any bus that travels the coastal road – e.g. from Vlora to Himara (16 kilometres from Dhermi) – will be able to drop you off in Dhermi.

Dhermi is close to the Llogara Pass and Llogara National Park. If you are driving in Albania , you are in for one of the most scenic legs of your trip.

Thinking of self-driving in Albania? I recommend hiring a car from a local agent via Local Rent . Prices are competitive, and most vehicles do not require a cash deposit or a credit card. I used Local Rent on my recent trip to Albania and couldn’t have been happier with the service.

I highly recommend timing your journey to reach the Llogara Pass at sunset. There are several marked viewpoints for panoramic sea views. Dhermi is a quick 20-minute drive from the Big Bunker, for example (see below for more), so you can enjoy the sunset and still safely reach your accommodation before it gets too dark.

Good to know: If you plan on self-catering during your stay in Dhermi (which might be necessary – more info below), there are a few small supermarkets in town. We found that Market Neco had a good range of pre-packaged food, but not much in the way of fresh ingredients.

Where to stay in Dhermi

Dhermi is quite sprawling, with houses stretching from the highest point of the village along the SH8 highway all the way down to the shoreline. I highly recommend staying in the upper part of Dhermi rather than on the beach.

Dhermi’s best (in my opinion) accommodations are in the older upper town, and even though some of the streets are too tight for a car, there is ample free parking available on corners and in small squares.

We stayed at Roots Dhermi , a beautifully renovated old house that now has several self-contained guest studios. Our upper-level room had incredible views and was very spacious, with a full-size bathroom, apartment style kitchen, sitting area, generous bedroom, and a private terrace.

Another popular option in Dhermi is Zoe Hora , a luxury resort complex that occupies a clutch of old houses under the cliff at the top of the village. We wandered into the resort a few times on our travels around Dhermi. The outdoor terraces and pool looked lovely.

Things to do in Dhermi

Wander dhermi’s cobbled streets & look for the blue-domed church.

Dhermi is made for long, aimless walks. Concentrate your efforts on the northern side of the village and the streets around Roots Dhermi. Here is where you’ll find the grandest stone houses and loveliest wooden doors.

There are several small squares in Dhermi. At one, we found old mill stones and what might have been an olive oil press propped up against the stone walls. A nearby building, de-roofed and hollowed-out, has an old mill in its centre, overgrown with tall grass.

Another square has a statue of Albanian novelist Petro Marko , who was born in Dhermi in 1913.

There are several small Orthodox churches hidden amongst the houses, including the Church of St Thanasi and Church of St Michael .

The Church Of St Spyridon – that iconic church with the blue dome – isn’t marked on Google Maps, but it is located next to the school on the north-western side of the village ( see the exact location here ).

For that classic Dhermi photo of the bell tower framed by red rooftops, head to the old laneways north-west of Zoe Hora. Many of the houses on this far side of the village are untouched and partially ruined.

Walk up to the Monastery of St. Mary

The Monastery of St Mary sits on top of a small hill on the north-western side of Dhermi and is one of the best vantage points for a sweeping view of the village.

The church can only be reached by foot via a glorious new set of stairs. It only takes 5 minutes to climb up. Parking is available nearby at this point .

The church has a freestanding twin-bell tower that is distinctly Greek in style. We arrived in the early morning to find the gate open, so we wandered in for a closer look. The churchyard contains a small cemetery with most stones bearing Greek lettering.

Get a village view from the Ballkoni i Gjilekut

For a postcard-perfect photo of old Dhermi and its white houses buttoned onto the hillside, you need to head back up the highway towards Vlora. The road bends at the perfect spot for a panoramic view of the village and St Mary’s.

If you’re in a car, there is a small parking area in front of this church where you can safely pull over. I recommend going in the late afternoon or evening for better light (the east-facing vantage is too shadowy in the morning).

Walk the historic Mills Trail

The Mills Trail is a unique Dhermi attraction that sets this village apart from its peers. Created during the restorations, it links the upper part of the village with the shoreline and beaches below via a marked path through a pocket of forest. Information boards dotted along the way teach visitors about different aspects of Dhermi’s history.

This is an easy 1.5-kilometre trail that takes around 30-45 minutes to walk each way. Allow more time if you’re going to stop and read the signboards. The path is clearly marked with signboards and bright red rails/bridges, and the terrain is easy to manage in light shoes.

The trailhead starts from the side of the highway close to the aforementioned viewpoint. You will see an opening on the side of the road and an information board describing the walk. Find the exact location pinned here .

As you start making your way downhill, you are almost immediately launched into a green oasis of pomegranate and olive trees. At times you are following a stream and water channels carved from the earth for irrigation and to feed the stone grinding mills that give the trail its name. The atmosphere reminded me a lot of hiking through an Omani wadi .

I highly recommend doing this walk early in the morning before the heat of the day sets in. Even though the path is mostly shaded, it is still very warm and humid. We set off before 9am and were joined by a herd of sheep and goats!

The path does need some maintenance as some of the sign boards have toppled over. The ones that still stand reveal fascinating tidbits about Dhermi village and its inhabitants.

The trail passes the remains of several ancestral mills that once belonged to prominent families, an old hydropower station (the first of its kind in rural Albania), a waterfall, and towards the end of the path, two churches. The dirt path slowly changes to sand, and eventually it delivers you to the sea.

A red archway marks the beach-end of the trail, at this point . From there, you can access the beach by following the main road to the west for around 600 metres.

Stroll along Dhermi’s rehabilitated waterfront

Like every place we visited on the Albanian coast, Dhermi’s beachfront is still under development. At the time of our visit there were several intrusive construction sites right on the shoreline.

Dhermi’s waterfront was reconstructed in 2016 as part of the Albanian government’s Urban Rebirth initiative. The main promenade was converted into a pedestrian-only zone, basic infrastructure such as bench seats and rubbish bins were added, and to enhance the feeling of connection with the physical environment, a ‘water square’ was created at the neck of the esplanade.

Dhermi Beach has a nice feel to it. I especially like the sculptural square near the pier.

The further down the beach you go, the more developed it feels. Beach bars and clubs take over. We stopped for a drink at the La Brisa pavilion – the caffe freddo was tasty, and prices were surprisingly good.

Swim on Dhermi Beach

Dhermi Beach (Dhërmiu Beach) is a pebble beach that stretches approximately 1.5 kilometres from Empire Resort down to the Theodore Bay headland. It is quieter than some of the other beaches in the vicinity and favoured by locals as a result.

We arrived in the off-season when the thatched umbrellas has already been bundled away for the winter, but I’m sure it’s more lively in summer.

Outside of the small public beach , you will need to pay for the privilege of swimming here. Expect to pay between 6-8 Euros per person for a chair, umbrella and towel.

There are plenty of restaurants along the water, but they are seasonal and shut down outside of summer. We were keen to try Luciano but it was well and truly closed by the time we arrived in mid-October.

Eat a local fish dinner at Sofia Bar

Food options are limited in Dhermi outside of the high season. We found almost every restaurant and bar on the beach was closed when we visited in mid-October. 

Thankfully there are a handful of establishments that stay open to serve the local crowd. There are two small restaurants in the upper part of town that sit side by side and look almost identical – we chose the one on the left with the small patio out front – Sofia Bar .

Fish is the thing to order here. We were only after a snack, so we went for the tzatziki and a big plate of fries. Honestly it was some of the best tzatziki I’ve had in my life. Paired with a beer and a sunset view, it was the perfect end to our day in Dhermi.

If you have a car, there are a few more all-year food options available in nearby Gjilekë. We had our morning coffee and byrek at Barba Niko Bakery and ate lunch one day at Restorant Genti opposite. The pizza oven was closed for the season, but the pasta was actually very good. The restaurant has a great balcony view, too.

Watch the sunset in Dhermi

In front of Sofia Bar there is a wide balcony that teeters over the edge of the forest with the Mills Trail below. Angled west, it offers a very nice view of the sun going down over Drymades Beach.

The plastic tables scattered in front of the glass railing appear to be shared between Sofia Bar and the neighbouring restaurants. Arrive early if you want to get a front row seat.

More things to do around Dhermi

Drive to the big bunker for sunset.

Located at the Dhermi-end of the Llogara Pass, the so-called Big Bunker is a 20-minute drive from the village and another excellent place to watch the sunset .

If you missed it on your way in, I highly recommend venturing up here one evening for the light show.

Gjipe Canyon & Beach

Continuing down the coast, the turnoff for Gjipe Canyon and Gjipe Beach is a short 4.5-kilometre drive from Dhermi. The junction is located in the village of Iljas, at this point .

The road into the canyon is unpaved and only suitable for 4WDs. At some point you have to abandon your car and continue by foot, navigating through the canyon for around 25 minutes to reach the secluded, cave-studded Gjipe Beach .

We were short on time and decided to skip Gjipe – but I have heard good things. If you have a spare morning in the area, it is worth the detour.

Take a side trip to Vuno, another charming village in Albania

Located 7.5 kilometres (around a 15-minute drive) further down the coast from Dhermi, Vuno is another delightful village with a very different feel.

Vuno feels more medieval, with thick stone walls that resemble fortifications and vaulted arches over some of the narrow streets. Some of the houses have been refurbished and white-washed, while others further up the mountain hang in a state of semi-decay.

Glory To The Martyrs Of The Village Vuno , the village’s war memorial, greets you as you enter. In the square at its foot, there is a popular cafe called Lula Bar-Restaurant (sadly it was closed at the time of our visit).

Vuno’s streets are extra narrow and steep. We parked at the square and continued on foot. Be sure to follow the village roads all the way up to the 16th-century St Nicholas Church . We had not researched it properly and had no idea what to expect – thus we were very taken aback to find a roofless church that has been completely hollowed out, but still has splendid frescoes in tact (below right).

Apparently the roof was removed in order to repurpose the tiles for a cowshed. I do hope plans for preservation are in the works, because it is truly a special church that desperately needs some TLC.

Where to go next: Onward travel from Dhermi

We departed Dhermi and headed down the coast, stopping at Vuno, Himara Castle and Porto Palermo before arriving at our next destination, Upper Qeparo .

If you are continuing by bus, note that drivers stop at this junction point in Dhermi to collect passengers.

More ideas for Albania

• The best things to do in Tirana , Albania’s quirky capital
• How to get from Tirana Airport to the city centre , a practical guide
• Exploring Upper Qeparo , a traditional semi-abandoned Albanian village
• Things to do in Lin , a beautiful village on Lake Ohrid
• Full guide to Berat , the castle city
• Full guide to Gjirokaster , the stone city
• Why you should visit Leskovik , home of one of Albania’s best boutique hotels
• Things to do in Korca , a lesser-visited city of culture
• Valbona National Park , hiking in the Albanian Alps
• My 2-week Albania road trip itinerary , for an epic Albania adventure

Albania Travel Guide

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Dhermi (Albania): Things to Do, Beaches & Travel Tips

Dhermi is one of the most beautiful summer destinations in Albania , located right along a scenic coast surrounded by high rugged mountains, in the heart of the Albanian Riviera . Its white pebbly beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters are truly breathtaking and provide an idyllic setting for sunbathing, swimming, and water sports.

Dhermi’s beaches are renowned for their beauty and tranquillity, but this small village has much more to offer than just its beaches. The surrounding areas are dotted with hidden coves , where visitors can discover their own secluded slice of paradise. The mountains behind the village also offer stunning hiking trails and breathtaking views of the coastline.

The village of Dhermi with its relaxed rhythms and authentic atmosphere is an unmissable stop on a road trip along the Albanian coast. Travelers will find several good accommodation options, from beautiful and comfortable hotels to cozy b&b. The local restaurants serve delicious mediterranean cuisine , and the beach clubs provide the perfect place to relax and enjoy a cocktail while soaking up the sun. In this guide you will find all the info you need on the best beaches in Dhermi , things to do and see and practical advice from the locals on where to eat, where to stay and how to get there!

What you will find in this travel guide to Dhermi (Albania):

Dhermi: Things to Know Before You Go

Best things to do and best beaches in dhermi, best hotels in dhermi, best places to eat in dhermi, how to get to dhermi.

Dhermi , also known as Dhërmi in Albanian, is a charming small village nestled between the Ceraunian Mountains and the crystal clear waters of the Ionian Sea , along the beautiful Albanian Riviera . Dhermi is centrally located, just 40 km away from both Vlora and Saranda , and it is situated at an elevation of 200 meters. Sloping gently towards the sea, it boasts a series of beautiful white pebbles beaches and magnificent views of the Ionian coast.

Dhermi is a rapidly growing summer destination in Albania, attracting both local and international visitors. It features several good hotels and beach clubs and some good restaurants with reasonable prices, serving seafood specialties and other regional recipes. While Dhermi is a small village, it is actually part of the larger municipality of Himarë , which is a beautiful seaside town located 15 km further south. The road between Dhermi and Himarë passes through a few small villages and provides access to several great beaches.

Dhermi’s relaxed ambiance is perfect for couples and families who seek a peaceful seaside getaway. However, despite its growing popularity, Dhermi has managed to maintain its charm and authenticity. It is not only a great place for a relaxing beach holiday, but also an ideal starting point for day trips and adventurous hikes in the surrounding mountains.

It’s situated on one of the most scenic parts of the Albanian Riviera , and it serves as a gateway to the wild landscapes of the Karaburun Peninsula and its bays , sea caves , and hidden coves that can only be accessed by boat or through hikes across the mountains. Another popular attraction within easy reach of Dhermi is the Llogara National Park , which boasts stunning mountains overlooking the sea, offers great views and is an ideal spot to escape the summer heat and try the tasty regional cuisine.

Given that Dhermi is one of the most popular beach destinations in Albania, it is not surprising that the main attractions are its beaches. In fact, there is not much to do or see in the town itself: Dhermi is a perfect destination for relaxing by the sea, sunbathing and enjoying good seafood.

Among the best beaches in Dhermi are the popular Dhermi Beach (a stone’s throw from the city center) and the beautiful Gjipe Beach .

But it is also worth taking a look at Palasa Beach (Plazhi i Palasës) : a fabulous residence has recently been built here (right on the beach!) and Palasa Beach is increasingly becoming one of the most beautiful and luxurious beaches in Albania, with exclusive beach clubs, bars and lounges with sun beds, cabanas and first-class services (the famous Nazar Beach , for example).

In the residence, which is called Green Coast Resort , you will find dozens of amazing modern villas to rent, all with sea views. Some also have a private swimming pool. Among the best villas to rent are: Greenhome Palase , Green Coast Resort & Residences , Pacific 2 Bedroom Villa Palase and The Nest of Palasë .

Another very beautiful beach is Drymades Beach (Drimadhë Beach) , located just north of Dhermi. The beach in the nearby village of Jalë , located about ten minutes drive from Dhermi, is also pretty nice.

Being conveniently located in the middle of the most scenic stretch of the Albanian Riviera , it is a good starting point for exploring the surroundings, especially the Llogara National Park and its amazing mountains overlooking the sea, which are a great place to escape the summer heat and taste the delicious Albanian mountain cuisine.

Dhermi Beach

Right at the foot of the mountain and the town you can find the popular Dhermi Beach , a 5 km long pebble beach overlooking a beautiful crystal clear sea.

The area is quiet and relaxed, there are many bars and restaurants within walking distance of the beach. There are some beach clubs that offer sunbed, straw umbrella and cabana rentals, but a good part of the beach is public and you can go there for free, bringing your own towel and umbrella. Prices are usually very affordable, and some stalls also rent jet skis and pedal boats.

A stone’s throw from the beach are several good hotels , such as the Empire Beach Resort , the Elysium Hotel , the Splendor Hotel & Spa and the Blue Boutique Hotel . Book well in advance!

Drymadhes Beach

North of Dhermi Beach, there is the white beach of Drymadhes , much less touristy than Dhermi. This is also a pebble beach where you can find several beach clubs, bars and restaurants. Beach clubs rent sun beds and umbrellas, the rates are similar to those of Dhermi Beach. Here too there are good hotels such as the Summer Dream Hotel , the Hildon Eco Hotel , the Ionian Hotel , the Noan Hotel & Resort and Vesper Suites .

But Drymadhes Beach is also famous for its luxurious villas , with private pool, garden, sea view, private parking and everything you need for a dream stay. It could be a great solution especially for those traveling with friends or family! Among the best are the fabulous Zoe by Drymades Inn Villas and the Luxury Villas Dhermi .

Gjipe Beach

One of Dhermi’s best-kept secrets is nearby Gjipe Beach , which is rougher and less touristy. It is a beautiful white beach that can only be reached on foot or by boat. It is surrounded by high cliffs and woods, which make it a pleasant place for a relaxing day by the sea, and it is also a good place for swimming and snorkeling. There is also a small bar for a light meal or a drink.

The beach is actually the mouth of a canyon, called Canyon de Gjipe , whose rock walls are over 80 meters high. A trail runs through the canyon valley and up the mountain to the village of Ilias , along the road to Dhermi. The trail is 4 km long, and takes at least 1,5 hour to walk (one way).

You can also arrive near Gjipe Beach by car, but you will have to park in a sort of parking lot (GPS: 40.13080, 19.65816 ) and from there continue on foot on a path that goes down to the beach (30 minutes). Near the car parks it is worth taking a look at the Monastery of St. Theodore , recently renovated and reopened to visitors.

Another popular way to reach Gjipe Beach is by taxi boat or kayak from Dhermi or nearby Jale Beach. A stone’s throw from the beach there is also a campsite, the Gjipe Eco Campground , which offers basic accommodation in tents and shared bathrooms and showers. Not too far away, in the tiny village of Vuno , there is also a nice and inexpensive hostel , the Shotgun Hostel , housed in a traditional house.

Jale Beach is located a short distance from Gjipe Beach and near the village of Vuno. Compared to the latter it is more crowded and lively, also due to the numerous campsites, hotels and beach clubs that make it quite popular with young people.

It is a beautiful pebble beach overlooking the crystal clear sea, easily reachable by car. In summer, finding parking may be difficult unless you are a guest of one of the hotels in the area. Explore the area north or south of Jale Beach by boat or kayak to see beautiful rocky cliffs and several hidden coves and sea caves.

The best hotel in the area is the Folie Marine Beach Hotel & Club Soleil Resort . A cheaper alternative can be the Hotel Nuanti , while if you are looking for a campsite, then take a look at Social Camping JAL .

Gjipe Canyon

The Gjipe Canyon is located just behind the beach of the same name, and is a valley 800 meters long and between 20 and 100 meters wide. Its high rock faces have been carved out over millennia by rivers that once flowed here from the mountains.

Gjipe Canyon is now a popular destination for a short hike, perhaps to reach the famous Gjipe Beach . Along the way you can explore caves and see some indigenous tree species, such as the carob, olive and Illyrian deciduous trees. With a little luck, you might spot the rare Mediterranean turtle near the beach.

Bay of Grama

North of Dhermi there is a wonderful cove accessible only from the sea and hidden in an inlet, between high rocky walls. Here the fabulous turquoise sea is usually calm, and gently laps a small white pebble beach. The surrounding area can be explored by boat and you will see several caves hidden in the rocks, as well as other tiny and pretty bays, such as Sant Andreas Bay .

The name of this bay derives from the fact that it has long been a place where sailors brought their ships during storms, as it was protected from the winds. Often the sailors, as well as the people who worked in the nearby quarries, left engravings with their names and prayers to the gods of the sea, especially in old Greek dialects that are still spoken here. Grama is believed to derive from the Greek word “gramma” , meaning letter. Throughout the bay there are thousands of inscriptions, some from the Roman and Greek times.

To reach Grama Bay there are boat tours that, in the summer season, depart from Dhermi or Vlore. It takes about 45 minutes to get there by boat.

St. Mary’s Monastery

The Dhermi’s Old Town is worth a visit: white houses with orange tiled roofs, labyrinthine alleys and remnants of charm of yesteryear. In its streets, you may encounter elderly people who speak the local dialect, heir to an ancient Greek dialect, while the scent of spices and traditional food spreads through the alleys.

Discover traces of Dhermi’s past by visiting its fascinating churches and monasteries. The most important, the Monastery of St. Mary or Manastiri i Shën Marisë , dominates the town from the top of the hill. You can reach it with a few minutes’ walk. There is a path that starts from the town.

The monastery dates back to the 16th century and is also known as the “white monastery” due to the color of its walls. You may find the door closed, try pushing it to see if it is open. Its interior is worth seeing: an authentic ancient Orthodox monastery, with mysterious frescoes that time is now irremediably erasing.

Experience the nightlife of Dhermi

Dhermi is also famous for its nightlife. It is full of clubs, discos and bars mainly concentrated along the beaches.

Popular spots include Bamboo Beach Bar Dhermi and Havana Beach Club . Both are located right on Dhermi Beach, rent loungers and umbrellas, and have a beach bar serving decent cocktails. Havana is much more glamorous, it has a good restaurant and even a swimming pool with a sea view.

Llogara National Park

During your stay in Dhermi you cannot miss a trip to Llogara National Park , in my opinion one of the most beautiful places in Albania . Located 20 km from Dhermi, it offers a completely different landscape, perfect for a day trip to the mountains.

The Llogara Pass is located over 1,000 meters above the sea, on the top of the Ceuranian Mountains , which are high rugged mountains overlooking the Ionian Sea. On the top there are wonderful coniferous forests, which are home to many wild animals.

The road trip through the Llogara Pass is a real surprise for those traveling along the Albanian Riviera: the landscape changes drastically and the temperatures are much more pleasant, which is a great way to escape from the summer heat.

Along the road there are many stalls selling typical local products, such as the excellent honey produced in the area. There are also some restaurants serving delicious mountain specialties , such as spit-roasted goat or lamb.

It is highly recommended to stay overnight on the Llogara Pass and have dinner on the spot. You will be able to enjoy a moment of true relaxation. The best choice to stay is the Llogora Tourist Village , a good hotel that offers great facilities for couples and families, including a swimming pool, sauna and large park where there are fawns roaming freely ! Kids will love seeing them up close!

Are you planning your trip to Dhermi? Then here you can find a useful guide to the best hotels in Dhermi : honest reviews , rates and useful information. You will find a selection of the best places to stay, suitable for every budget: from fabulous resorts with sea views , to budget hotels with unbeatable value for money . Discover the best options, how to find the best rates and tips to better plan your trip!

☞   THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE BEST HOTELS IN DHERMI

Camping Paradise

Rustic, family-run restaurant located near the Palase Beach, a stone’s throw from the beach. It is eaten in a nice shady garden and serves good local specialties, grilled fish and seafood. There is also a good choice of vegetarian options.

Tavern Fevan

Another good family run restaurant located along the SH8 main road. It serves local specialties made with fresh, locally grown ingredients. Tavë kosi (baked lamb with yoghurt) is worth trying, but must be requested in advance as it takes a long time to cook. However the lamb dishes are all good, as are the grilled fish and other local specialties. Get a seat on the beautiful terrace overlooking the sea, if available.

360 Sunset Bar Drymades

Located along Drymades Beach, it is a modern and glamorous restaurant. It’s actually a beach club, but it also has a nice bar and a terrace overlooking the sea with oriental-style cushions and sofas, where you can relax at sunset while drinking a good cocktail. The restaurant serves international cuisine, mainly seafood.

The best way to get to Dhermi is by car, as it is located along the SH8 road, which crosses the entire Albanian Riviera from Saranda to Vlora and then continues towards Fier , Durres and Tirana .

For those traveling along the Albanian Riviera and want to explore the country, enjoy the best beaches and attractions, a car is essential . You can rent a car in Saranda, Vlora or any major city in Albania. You can find honest, reliable and cheap car rentals on Rentalcars.com or Discovercars.com .

Getting to Dhermi by plane

The closest airports to Dhermi are Corfu International Airport (Greece) or Tirana International Airport . From Corfu you can take a ferry to Saranda and rent a car or continue by bus to Dhermi. From Tirana it is better to rent a car, otherwise you can take a bus to Vlora (and then change to Dhermi) or Saranda. Sometimes you may even find a direct bus to Dhermi (see below).

Getting to Dhermi from Corfu

If you are coming from Corfu you can take the ferry to Saranda or Himare and then rent a car there or take a bus to Dhermi.

Getting to Dhermi by Bus from Tirana

Backpackers who want to reach Dhermi by bus from Tirana can try to check for buses leaving for Dhermi at the Regional Bus Terminal North and South Albania , located approximately 30 minutes drive from the city center (GPS: 41.34441, 19.77719 ). There are 1-2 a day, usually in the very early morning or mid-day. Tickets start at 1,000 LEK. To get there you can take the bus that stops near the National History Museum, direction Instituti Bujqesor . Ask the driver to drop you off at the regional bus station.

Discover all our guides here ➜

Things to Do in Tirana

Ksamil: Beaches & Things to Do

National Parks in Albania

Things to Do in Dhermi, Albania

Best known for its beaches’ incredible beauty, Dhermi is a small village on the southern coast of Albanian Riviera , located between the two Himare and Vlora towns. It is a village of absolutely unique charm, characterized by a beautiful stone architecture typical of the South and surrounded by the lush vegetation of citrus and green olive trees, now a popular tourist destination for many years. You will surely be impressed by the appearance of this village perched on a mountain, with small houses all close together and stone alleys that climb up to the top. Below, clearly visible from above, the wonderful white pebble beaches that attract tourists from all over the world.

Little is actually known about the origins of Dhermi, except that the area where it is located belonged to a Kaonian tribe before being almost completely devastated by King Philip of Macedonia and then passed under Roman control. It was right around the village, on the beach of Palase, that Julius Caesar had his troops landed in the battle against Pompey. The territory then passed under Bulgarian rule and was attacked several times by pirates, as some of the area’s historical evidence shows. Beyond this, Dhermi is known for its scenic beauty and tourist attractions, especially at night, making it a top-rated destination, especially for younger tourists.

Things to do in Dhermi

Dhermi beaches

More than 5 km long, the beaches of Dhermi are distinguished by the marvelous white sand that plunges into clear and deep waters, the ideal environment for snorkelers, who will find here incredible rocky bottoms inhabited by fish of all sizes. There are three of the most famous seaside resorts of this part of the southern coast, where tourists flock to enjoy whole days of relaxation in bays surrounded by wild nature: Dhermi, Drymades, and Palase.

Dhermi Beach

Just below the village, the beach of Dhermi is certainly the best equipped of all, especially in its northernmost part, where some many kiosks and restaurants offer the possibility to rent not only deckchairs and umbrellas but also pedal boats and canoes to reach the nearby Pirates’ Cave or some small bay hidden behind the rocks.

Drymades Beach

The beach of Drymades is quieter, imposing, and very white, surrounded by wild and uncontaminated nature, and not well served by tourist facilities of any kind. This is the ideal destination for tourists searching for tranquility and small views hidden among the area’s bays.

Palase Beach

But even wilder is the beautiful beach of Palace, just 8 kilometers north of the village of Dhermi, characterized by incredible tranquility and wonderful turquoise waters.

Unlike the village above, where small restaurants offer traditional dishes, the beaches are full of bars and clubs that liven up the nights on the southern coast with theme parties, DJ sets, live music, and much more. A fixed stop for younger tourists, who come here to spend the evening after a day at the beach.

Visiting  Churches and Monasteries in Dhermi

Although it is not a large village, Dhermi and its surroundings are home to more than thirty churches, some of which are really worth visiting. For example, in the old quarter of the village, you can’t miss the opportunity to stop and admire the Monastery of Santa Maria, also known as the “White Monastery” for its walls’ characteristic color. Equally fascinating and well preserved is the Monastery of San Teodoro, located right on the hill of the village, the Monastery of Stavridhi, and the Virgin Mary’s Monastery on the hill Drymades. Characteristic buildings that can attract the attention of the most attentive tourists to the history of the territory they are visiting will also fascinate those who have come here to enjoy the area’s crystal clear waters.

How to get to Dhermi

The beach is located 1.5 km below the main road connecting Vlora – Saranda, so if you want to reach it by bus, ask the driver to stop on the Llogara Pass at the detour to the village. Once stopped, to reach the beach, you have to go down the main road, called Rruga Perivolo, which starts at the top of the highway, SH8, and goes to the beach.

In theory, most of the places we have described before are no more than 15-30 minutes away by car. But the Albanian Riviera is a long stretch of winding roads in the mountains, so a trip to a nearby beach or town that shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes by car ends up taking more than 30-40 minutes by bus. The only flaw is that buses are not very frequent on this stretch of road.

You can also take a taxi, but you may pay a high fare for a 10-minute trip (you may also be charged 25-30 euros one way). So in our opinion, the best way to visit this wonderful stretch of coast is to rent a car.

Where to stay in Dhermi

The beauty of this resort is that, in a small area, you can find facilities of all kinds and at any price.

5-star hotel with all comforts and private beach like the Morina Palace at 150/180 euros the double room in August, more modest hotels with comfortable rooms and mini-apartments like the Ionian Hotel, a quadruple at 126 euros per night with breakfast included, always in August.

An excellent choice for the location, for the quality of service and the price, is the Hotel Summer Dream, located on the beach’s far-right, the quietest and most peaceful area. The 3-star hotel offers a unique view over the whole gulf and a private beach in the most beautiful sea corner, perhaps the most beautiful part of this portion of the coast. Price: double room at the end of August with breakfast, 63 euros per night.

If you prefer wood and green spaces to walls, the Altea Beach Lodges is for you. White wooden bungalows can accommodate up to 4 people, located among olive trees and green lawns, where you can relax in a hammock or on deck chairs. The bungalows have a bathroom, air conditioning, wifi in the common areas of the resort. There is no kitchen but don’t worry; the resort has an excellent restaurant! Prices: 110 euros for two people in August.

The last solution is the one I prefer, the camping but the real one, with few tents in the middle of the trees, the current in the common area, the bar that becomes a meeting point to meet new people and other nationalities, the beach at 3 meters. No animation, swimming pool, or muscular awakening, here the contact with nature is guaranteed and the respect of silence in the evening and early afternoon. Cost: 10 euros per night per person, including tent, in the sense that if you do not have your own tent, or do not want to leave loaded, here all campsites are equipped with tents for 2/3 people with foam mattress, pillows, pillowcases, sheets, and blankets. In Drymades, there are several, the best located on the right side of the beach.

My favorite is the Eco Camping next to the Altea Beach Lodges; extreme simplicity, background of cicadas, sea always at sight, bar, young and welcoming management, and excellent coffee!

If you have a motorhome, you will also find space for your vehicle or in the campsites or directly on the beach, and then you can lean against the campsite for bathroom and supplies.

Last, extreme solution: free camping on the beach. Albania is one of the last places where it is allowed; obviously, you have to find a space that does not interfere with the facilities. You have to be respectful of the environment and the people who are welcoming you.

Nightlife in Dhermi

Drymades nightlife is mainly concentrated on the left-hand side of the roundabout. The clubs are all outdoors and close to the beach.” Country” club will draw your attention first; colorful lights, loud music, and lots of people chatting and moving to the rhythm of the hits of the moment with a glass in hand, a little further on will be the rhythm and a setting reminiscent of Cuba to call you, you have arrived at Noli’s, a very nice soft-club, with comfortable seating and suitable for a cocktail in good company. You can find two other very nice and fashionable places for a beer with friends near the roundabout.

On the beach instead is Pepperon, the beach the most famous and popular club that this year will be the Turtle Fest location, the three-day electronic music festival with international DJs, held on August’s first weekend. A festival is an event awaited by many young people who will arrive in the hundreds from all over Europe and the Balkans.

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One comment.

Good afternoon,

I am trying to contact Summer Dream Hotel 3* Dhermi but unfortunately I am not able. Tel. Nr. seems not to work and I cannot find any email adress. Maybe you could help me thanks Michaela

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15 Pri 2024

Kompania më e madhe turistike në vend “Sharr Travel” zbret çmimet deri në 35% në këto destinacione

Kompania lidere për turizëm “Sharr Travel”, edhe këtë verë vazhdon me ofertat e saj për të pushuar në bregdetin shqiptar.

Oferta do të ketë edhe për muajin korrik.

E, për disa destinacione kjo kompani ka vendosur që të zbresë çmimet deri në 35%.

Për të bërë pushimet më të bukura, “Sharr Travel”, ju ofron zbritje në Vlorë, Shëngjin, Velipojë, Sarandë, Ksamil, Dhërmi,  e Jalë.

Të ngjashme

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Travel Guide to Dhermi, the Best Village on the Albanian Riviera

Dangling off the side of the Ceraunian Mountains like a string of pearls, Dhërmi is a dreamy village of whitewashed...

Dangling off the side of the Ceraunian Mountains like a string of pearls, Dhërmi is a dreamy village of whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches.

With strong Santorini vibes, it is widely regarded as the most charming settlement on the Albanian Riviera.

Dhermi is located between Vlora and Himara. Approaching from the north, it is one of the first villages you reach after descending towards the sea via the spectacular Llogara Pass.

It is perfectly positioned for exploring the northern portion of the riviera and popular Albanian beaches including Gjipe and Jala, as well as the town’s own beach, Dhërmiu.

Unlike other villages such as Qeparo and Vuno, Dhermi has been partially reconstructed, giving the old stone houses and Greek Orthodox churches a fresh lease on life. A multitude of boutique accommodations can be found here, along with restaurants and cafes.

Dhermi is one of the few places on the riviera where there are enough alternative activities beyond the beach to comfortably fill a day.

In this Dhermi Travel Guide, I will show you all the best things to do in Dhermi in 1-2 days, where to stay, where to eat, and other travel tips.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Why visit Dhermi?

It was a photograph of a stunning blue-domed church that first put Dhermi on my radar. When planning our Albania road trip , I wanted to dedicate at least two nights to the village. (As a side note, I connected with the author of that photograph on social media after my trip – small world!)

Dhermi’s good looks do indeed set it apart from other villages on the riviera. Extensive conservation works – the likes of which have been planned for nearby Qeparo and Vuno, but are yet to commence – have transformed Dhermi.

Not only is it one of the best places in Albania to see vernacular terraced architecture, Dhermi is a cultural experience too. Rehabilitation and revitalisation projects have aimed to honour Dhermi’s history, and there are several initiatives that teach visitors about the village and its way of life.

One of these initiatives is the Mills Trail, a historic hiking path that links the village with the coast, which has been redeveloped into an immersive experience with the use of signboards.

Among locals, Dhermi is still called by its Greek name, Drymades. Most inhabitants are ethnically Greek and speak the Greek Himariote dialect and/or the Tosk Albanian dialect.

As I mentioned, Dhermi has a lot to offer beyond the beaches. We spent two nights in Dhermi and found this was the perfect amount of time. A full day can be spent exploring the village and walking the trail. If you’re visiting in the season, you might wish to add another day for the beach.

How to get to Dhermi

Dhermi is located on Albania’s main State Highway 8 that runs down the coast. It is approximately 60 kilometres from Vlora and 70 kilometres from Saranda.

Any bus that travels the coastal road – e.g. from Vlora to Himara (16 kilometres from Dhermi) – will be able to drop you off in Dhermi.

Dhermi is close to the Llogara Pass and Llogara National Park. If you are driving in Albania , you are in for one of the most scenic legs of your trip.

Thinking of self-driving in Albania? I recommend hiring a car from a local agent via Local Rent . Prices are competitive, and most vehicles do not require a cash deposit or a credit card. I used Local Rent on my recent trip to Albania and couldn’t have been happier with the service.

I highly recommend timing your journey to reach the Llogara Pass at sunset. There are several marked viewpoints for panoramic sea views. Dhermi is a quick 20-minute drive from the Big Bunker, for example (see below for more), so you can enjoy the sunset and still safely reach your accommodation before it gets too dark.

Good to know: If you plan on self-catering during your stay in Dhermi (which might be necessary – more info below), there are a few small supermarkets in town. We found that Market Neco had a good range of pre-packaged food, but not much in the way of fresh ingredients.

Where to stay in Dhermi

Dhermi is quite sprawling, with houses stretching from the highest point of the village along the SH8 highway all the way down to the shoreline. I highly recommend staying in the upper part of Dhermi rather than on the beach.

Dhermi’s best (in my opinion) accommodations are in the older upper town, and even though some of the streets are too tight for a car, there is ample free parking available on corners and in small squares.

We stayed at Roots Dhermi , a beautifully renovated old house that now has several self-contained guest studios. Our upper-level room had incredible views and was very spacious, with a full-size bathroom, apartment style kitchen, sitting area, generous bedroom, and a private terrace.

Another popular option in Dhermi is Zoe Hora , a luxury resort complex that occupies a clutch of old houses under the cliff at the top of the village. We wandered into the resort a few times on our travels around Dhermi. The outdoor terraces and pool looked lovely.

Things to do in Dhermi

Wander dhermi’s cobbled streets & look for the blue-domed church.

Dhermi is made for long, aimless walks. Concentrate your efforts on the northern side of the village and the streets around Roots Dhermi. Here is where you’ll find the grandest stone houses and loveliest wooden doors.

There are several small squares in Dhermi. At one, we found old mill stones and what might have been an olive oil press propped up against the stone walls. A nearby building, de-roofed and hollowed-out, has an old mill in its centre, overgrown with tall grass.

Another square has a statue of Albanian novelist Petro Marko , who was born in Dhermi in 1913.

There are several small Orthodox churches hidden amongst the houses, including the Church of St Thanasi and Church of St Michael .

The Church Of St Spyridon – that iconic church with the blue dome – isn’t marked on Google Maps, but it is located next to the school on the north-western side of the village ( see the exact location here ).

For that classic Dhermi photo of the bell tower framed by red rooftops, head to the old laneways north-west of Zoe Hora. Many of the houses on this far side of the village are untouched and partially ruined.

Walk up to the Monastery of St. Mary

The Monastery of St Mary sits on top of a small hill on the north-western side of Dhermi and is one of the best vantage points for a sweeping view of the village.

The church can only be reached by foot via a glorious new set of stairs. It only takes 5 minutes to climb up. Parking is available nearby at this point .

The church has a freestanding twin-bell tower that is distinctly Greek in style. We arrived in the early morning to find the gate open, so we wandered in for a closer look. The churchyard contains a small cemetery with most stones bearing Greek lettering.

Get a village view from the Ballkoni i Gjilekut

For a postcard-perfect photo of old Dhermi and its white houses buttoned onto the hillside, you need to head back up the highway towards Vlora. The road bends at the perfect spot for a panoramic view of the village and St Mary’s.

If you’re in a car, there is a small parking area in front of this church where you can safely pull over. I recommend going in the late afternoon or evening for better light (the east-facing vantage is too shadowy in the morning).

Walk the historic Mills Trail

The Mills Trail is a unique Dhermi attraction that sets this village apart from its peers. Created during the restorations, it links the upper part of the village with the shoreline and beaches below via a marked path through a pocket of forest. Information boards dotted along the way teach visitors about different aspects of Dhermi’s history.

This is an easy 1.5-kilometre trail that takes around 30-45 minutes to walk each way. Allow more time if you’re going to stop and read the signboards. The path is clearly marked with signboards and bright red rails/bridges, and the terrain is easy to manage in light shoes.

The trailhead starts from the side of the highway close to the aforementioned viewpoint. You will see an opening on the side of the road and an information board describing the walk. Find the exact location pinned here .

As you start making your way downhill, you are almost immediately launched into a green oasis of pomegranate and olive trees. At times you are following a stream and water channels carved from the earth for irrigation and to feed the stone grinding mills that give the trail its name. The atmosphere reminded me a lot of hiking through an Omani wadi .

I highly recommend doing this walk early in the morning before the heat of the day sets in. Even though the path is mostly shaded, it is still very warm and humid. We set off before 9am and were joined by a herd of sheep and goats!

The path does need some maintenance as some of the sign boards have toppled over. The ones that still stand reveal fascinating tidbits about Dhermi village and its inhabitants.

The trail passes the remains of several ancestral mills that once belonged to prominent families, an old hydropower station (the first of its kind in rural Albania), a waterfall, and towards the end of the path, two churches. The dirt path slowly changes to sand, and eventually it delivers you to the sea.

A red archway marks the beach-end of the trail, at this point . From there, you can access the beach by following the main road to the west for around 600 metres.

Stroll along Dhermi’s rehabilitated waterfront

Like every place we visited on the Albanian coast, Dhermi’s beachfront is still under development. At the time of our visit there were several intrusive construction sites right on the shoreline.

Dhermi’s waterfront was reconstructed in 2016 as part of the Albanian government’s Urban Rebirth initiative. The main promenade was converted into a pedestrian-only zone, basic infrastructure such as bench seats and rubbish bins were added, and to enhance the feeling of connection with the physical environment, a ‘water square’ was created at the neck of the esplanade.

Dhermi Beach has a nice feel to it. I especially like the sculptural square near the pier.

The further down the beach you go, the more developed it feels. Beach bars and clubs take over. We stopped for a drink at the La Brisa pavilion – the caffe freddo was tasty, and prices were surprisingly good.

Swim on Dhermi Beach

Dhermi Beach (Dhërmiu Beach) is a pebble beach that stretches approximately 1.5 kilometres from Empire Resort down to the Theodore Bay headland. It is quieter than some of the other beaches in the vicinity and favoured by locals as a result.

We arrived in the off-season when the thatched umbrellas has already been bundled away for the winter, but I’m sure it’s more lively in summer.

Outside of the small public beach , you will need to pay for the privilege of swimming here. Expect to pay between 6-8 Euros per person for a chair, umbrella and towel.

There are plenty of restaurants along the water, but they are seasonal and shut down outside of summer. We were keen to try Luciano but it was well and truly closed by the time we arrived in mid-October.

Eat a local fish dinner at Sofia Bar

Food options are limited in Dhermi outside of the high season. We found almost every restaurant and bar on the beach was closed when we visited in mid-October. 

Thankfully there are a handful of establishments that stay open to serve the local crowd. There are two small restaurants in the upper part of town that sit side by side and look almost identical – we chose the one on the left with the small patio out front – Sofia Bar .

Fish is the thing to order here. We were only after a snack, so we went for the tzatziki and a big plate of fries. Honestly it was some of the best tzatziki I’ve had in my life. Paired with a beer and a sunset view, it was the perfect end to our day in Dhermi.

If you have a car, there are a few more all-year food options available in nearby Gjilekë. We had our morning coffee and byrek at Barba Niko Bakery and ate lunch one day at Restorant Genti opposite. The pizza oven was closed for the season, but the pasta was actually very good. The restaurant has a great balcony view, too.

Watch the sunset in Dhermi

In front of Sofia Bar there is a wide balcony that teeters over the edge of the forest with the Mills Trail below. Angled west, it offers a very nice view of the sun going down over Drymades Beach.

The plastic tables scattered in front of the glass railing appear to be shared between Sofia Bar and the neighbouring restaurants. Arrive early if you want to get a front row seat.

More things to do around Dhermi

Drive to the big bunker for sunset.

Located at the Dhermi-end of the Llogara Pass, the so-called Big Bunker is a 20-minute drive from the village and another excellent place to watch the sunset .

If you missed it on your way in, I highly recommend venturing up here one evening for the light show.

Gjipe Canyon & Beach

Continuing down the coast, the turnoff for Gjipe Canyon and Gjipe Beach is a short 4.5-kilometre drive from Dhermi. The junction is located in the village of Iljas, at this point .

The road into the canyon is unpaved and only suitable for 4WDs. At some point you have to abandon your car and continue by foot, navigating through the canyon for around 25 minutes to reach the secluded, cave-studded Gjipe Beach .

We were short on time and decided to skip Gjipe – but I have heard good things. If you have a spare morning in the area, it is worth the detour.

Take a side trip to Vuno, another charming village in Albania

Located 7.5 kilometres (around a 15-minute drive) further down the coast from Dhermi, Vuno is another delightful village with a very different feel.

Vuno feels more medieval, with thick stone walls that resemble fortifications and vaulted arches over some of the narrow streets. Some of the houses have been refurbished and white-washed, while others further up the mountain hang in a state of semi-decay.

Glory To The Martyrs Of The Village Vuno , the village’s war memorial, greets you as you enter. In the square at its foot, there is a popular cafe called Lula Bar-Restaurant (sadly it was closed at the time of our visit).

Vuno’s streets are extra narrow and steep. We parked at the square and continued on foot. Be sure to follow the village roads all the way up to the 16th-century St Nicholas Church . We had not researched it properly and had no idea what to expect – thus we were very taken aback to find a roofless church that has been completely hollowed out, but still has splendid frescoes in tact (below right).

Apparently the roof was removed in order to repurpose the tiles for a cowshed. I do hope plans for preservation are in the works, because it is truly a special church that desperately needs some TLC.

Where to go next: Onward travel from Dhermi

We departed Dhermi and headed down the coast, stopping at Vuno, Himara Castle and Porto Palermo before arriving at our next destination, Upper Qeparo .

If you are continuing by bus, note that drivers stop at this junction point in Dhermi to collect passengers.

More ideas for Albania

• The best things to do in Tirana , Albania’s quirky capital
• How to get from Tirana Airport to the city centre , a practical guide
• Exploring Upper Qeparo , a traditional semi-abandoned Albanian village
• Things to do in Lin , a beautiful village on Lake Ohrid
• Full guide to Berat , the castle city
• Full guide to Gjirokaster , the stone city
• Why you should visit Leskovik , home of one of Albania’s best boutique hotels
• Things to do in Korca , a lesser-visited city of culture
• Valbona National Park , hiking in the Albanian Alps
• My 2-week Albania road trip itinerary , for an epic Albania adventure

Albania Travel Guide

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Albania Essentials

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Guide to Dhermi, Albania: 5 Things to Know Before You Go

Oh dhermi….

You really caught me off guard.

I had no idea what to expect when I traveled to this little town by the beach along the Albanian riviera. But knowing what I know now, I would do a few things differently if and when I return there.

That is why I have prepared this little Dhermi guide of things I wish the freakin’ internet had told me before I hopped on a plane to Albania.

My original plan with the Albanian riviera was to spend two or three days in Sarandë, and one or two days in Dhërmi. But it ended up being the reverse because I got offered to perform at Havana Beach Bar, Dhërmi’s biggest nightclub. This required me to stay longer because there were a lot of scheduling issues. 

In hindsight however, I shouldn’t have stayed that long. 

Not that there’s anything wrong with Dhërmi. It is a quiet, beautiful, little town. At some moments, it even felt like a  village by the beach. Thus, it is not really designed for tourists relying on public transportation because it is not easy to get to. And because it is so quiet, you’ll want to explore nearby towns, sights and beaches. But they are practically impossible to get to if you haven’t rented a car. Your other transportation options will be busses that never come, hitchhiking, long distance walking, or paying for overpriced tourist trap taxis.  

I wish I knew this before going and I want other people going to Dhermi and the Albanian riviera to know what’s up. So allow me to elaborate on the FIVE things you should know before you travel to Dhërmi so that you have a more fulfilling trip than I did. 

You might also like: The Things the Internet Forgot to Tell Me about the Albanian Riviera .

Your trip will be soooo much better if you rent a car. 

Compared to the reliable and frequent transportation systems in Montenegro and Croatia that link their coastal towns through mountainous terrains,  Albania is much further behind.

Probably the most disappointing thing about Dhërmi and southern Albania was that I realized how limited I was to explore Dhërmi and nearby towns and beaches because we didn’t rent a car. Albania’s public transportation infrastructure still needs a lot of improvement. Even if we rented a car for one of the three days we were there, our trip would have been so much better.

Foreigners don’t know this because the Albanian riviera is better marketed to Albanians with money, and it is the more affluent Albanians with nice cars that you will see in Dhermi. That is the reason the town is so quiet. The more modest Albanians are all in Sarandë enjoying a better infrastructure for tourists to get by on foot and taxi. 

There is not so much to do in Dhërmi. It really gets boring after half a day, which is why, your trip will be so much more fulfilling if you visit the neighboring towns and beaches. Gjipe beach and gorge , only 10 minutes away by car,  has the most secluded, stranded by shipwreck look to it… but no bus goes there. Jala beach, with the biggest and best night club Folie Terrace, is only 15 minutes away by car. But no busses go there. Other places that are only 15-45 minutes away by car are  Himara (the most populous and “happening” city on this coastal stretch north of Sarandë), Palasë (a quieter beach town), Porto Palermo (an even quieter beach town with an epic secluded fortress), Llogara (a jawdropping mountain pass)  and the Ceraunian mountains of course for hiking.

The pebbled Dhermi beach is stunning! But I needed a little more exploration and sightseeing to my trip which was impossible without a car. 

In theory, most of those places are no more than 15-30 minutes away by car. But the Albanian riviera is a long stretch of winding roads in the mountains, and so a drive to a nearby beach or town that shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes by car ends up being 30-40 minutes by bus. And that’s if the bus even comes. And guys, the bus won’t come! They are so infrequent in Southern Albania.

You can also take a taxi, but they will try to charge you at least 25-30 euros one way! I was shocked by this because I was with my friend who was Albanian from Kosovo . I thought, surely because he was Albanian, we would get a break.  But we didn’t. If I could do Dhërmi all over again, I would have rented a car for at least one day to visit Gjipe around brunch time and then spend the rest of the afternoon and evening in Himarë. Gjipe is in my opinion, one of the best kept secrets from tourists in the entire Balkans. And if  I just had a damn car, I could have gone to it because no bus goes there. Even Albanians don’t go there so much. 

So if you can rent a car even for a day, DO IT.

Where to rent a car?

I recommend searching on Discover Car Hire. It’s equivalent to Kayak, Skyscanner or Google Flights, but for rental cars. You can even search for pick-up and drop-off in different cities or different countries for those of you traveling through multiple countries and same-way drop-off doesn’t fit your travel plans. So if you wanted to start your trip in Croatia and end it in Albania, or start in Albania and end it in Serbia, or whatever, you can search with those parameters.

Click here to check rental options & rates on Discover Car Hire

Be prepared to be exhausted from walking. 

Rruga e Kampit, the road that leads to the beach, will be the cardio you never asked for.

Dhërmi is basically one giant hill with vacation houses, bed and breakfasts, and tiny hotels. It has one main road called Rruga e Kampit, which starts at the top on the main highway, SH8, and goes all the way down to the beach. Rruga e Kampit (Camp Road) is not listed on Google maps, and only about three or four of the hotels list it as part of their address while the other accommodations simply don’t list an address at all. But here it is on the map:

If you stay in an accommodation that is not more than $30 USD a night like I did, you will most likely be closer to the top of the road, which is where you see Rruga Perivolo meet Rrruga e Kampit. And I am warning you now, the beach is about a 20 minute walk.That’s not necessarily a bad thing if you don’t want to spend more than $30 a night. 

But be warned that the Rruga e Kampit road to the beach is STEEP!  It will really test your endurance and your thighs will be in pain, especially if you have had a few beers or laid out lazily in the sun for hours. 

If you check out my video below around the 45 second mark, you will see how out of breath I was!

My friend that came with me was complaining the whole time because he hated walking up the hill. I don’t think it was the end of the world and I welcomed it as a fun challenge, but it was definitely exhausting. 

So if you are a premadonna  like him, there’s two solutions. One is to rent a car and drive to the beach, which is what all the Albanians do. The other is to pay a little extra every day to stay at a more expensive location by the beach. This is probably a good time to tell you that I have a discount code with Airbnb if you want an accommodation closer to the beach.

Cool Hotels in Dhermi

Here are some of the best options I found that aren’t too outrageous in price and close to the beach.

Penelope’s Rooms

I stayed at a 30 euro a night Airbnb that was a 20 minute, painful uphill walk from the beach. For about 10 euros more, I could have stayed at Penelope, and I would have been no more than a 10 minute walk from the beach. Oh well. Next time!

Click here for the current rate and availability at Penelope’s Rooms

This is one of two hotels right on the beach, as you can see in the map above. And it’s right off the main promenade too for extra convenience.

Click here for the current rate and availability at Royal Blue

Guest House Dhermi

This place has such a cool bungalow vibe to it. And as you can see on the map above, it is right where Rruga e Kampit and the main promenade meet. 🙂

Click here for the current rate and availability at Guest House Dhërmi

Dhermi Nightlife is very underwhelming. 

Oh Dhermi Albania nightlife. Sigh.

A huge reason I was interested in Dhërmi and its neighboring beaches, such as Jala and Himarë is because I saw a bunch of youtube videos prior to going that showed some really insane beach parties. But while I was in Dhermi for three days, not a single wild beach party took place. Apparently, Dhërmi is more exciting on the weekend, but we were there on a Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. 

Dhërmi’s most popular club is called Havana Beach Bar. I thought I would go there and have one of the best nightlife experiences in the Balkans. But I was mistaken because it was quite subdued. I later found out that the club has another location in Palasë, and it is that location that the club owners used to promote  the club online with a lot of their youtube videos. And of course, without a car, getting to Palasë at night was impossible.

That was  disappointing for me and my friend because we wanted to relax at the beach during the day and then party at night. The image we had of Dhermi nightlife from watching youtube videos did not live up to expectations. Had we known this, we definitely would have spent more time in Sarandë. Sarandë is also much quieter on the weekdays, but it still has a lot more bars and restaurants to check out every night of the week whereas Dhërmi really had only one. 

For such a small place, Dhërmi has a colorful population.

My favorite restaurant Harmonia, owned by a sassy Italian lady. 

One of the most interesting things of note about Dhërmi is that you will occasionally meet Greek and Italian business owners who set up Airbnbs, restaurants and hotels there. The owner of my Airbnb was from Greece. He and I had a lot of fun debating about the Balkans and the history of some of the countries. Of course, he had a lot to say about Macedonia (if you don’t know, Macedonia and Greece have had a long dispute over the name “Macedonia”).

Also very interesting in Dhërmi is that there is an indigenous population of people who look nothing like Albanians. They are much darker in skin complexion, and from what I understand, they are not Roma people (I honestly can’t find what they are called anywhere on the internet). They work a lot of the menial jobs near the beach, so you will see them a lot. But you will rarely see them anywhere else in Albania throughout your travels in the country. 

How close is Dhërmi to Saranda, Vlora, Himara, and more? 

I arrived in Dhërmi by bus from Sarandë. This bus takes the SH8 highway route, which goes all the way to the north of  Albania. The bus left at 11 a.m. in the morning and arrived in Dhërmi at around 1 p.m (the route from Dhermi to Saranda is about 2-2.5 hours by car, but by bus, the Dhermi to Saranda route will be at least three hours). If you are coming from Saranda, there will be only one or two busses going to Dhërmi, so be sure to catch it on time! Although, I do hope the route between Dhermi to Saranda has improved since my writing of this!

Dhërmi is part of Vlorë county, the county that holds most of the riviera. The Tirana to Dhermi distance is about 4.5 hours, while there is about a three hour Vlore to Dhermi distance. Dhërmi is about 30-45 mins north of Himara (Himarë) by bus. I initially wanted to go from Vlore to Dhermi, but then I decided to stick to the more southern towns. There is a Tirana to Dhermi bus that leaves several times a day from the Tirana bus terminal, although I believe the bus from Dhermi to Tirana that I caught at 8 a.m. in the morning only comes a few more times in the day. So check the times at the bus stop and check with the driver. 

I had heard there is an hourly shuttle bus between Dhërmi and Himarë, but I did not use it. Some other nearby beaches and towns are Palasë, Jal (Jala), Vuno, Gjipe, Llagora Pass and Porto Palermo. I would suggest to stay in Dhërmi or Himarë if you do not have a car. If you are staying at Sea Turtle camping, you can actually get off at the Dhërmi stop. From there, walk down Rruga e Kampit and veer right down the path instead of left (which would take you to Dhërmi’s southern and strip).

I hope this post was enlightening! Please share if you thought it was! Let me know in the comments what you think or if you have any questions. Also,  feel free to message me on  Facebook or Instagram ! I’m happy to help!

Nwando is an American expat based in the Balkans. She is a musician, blogger (duh!), and Youtuber with almost 3 Million views on her channel about traveling, culture and life in the Balkans!

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