darien tour panama

Explore the wonders of the Darien Jungle

Welcome to Travel Darien Panama.

We are an Indigenous owned tour operator that organizes trips to the Darién through our home, the village of La Chunga. 

La Chunga is part of the “Comarca Emberá – Wounaan (Area 1)

We offer three different experiences, and they all start from our village. 

Depending on your wishes you can experience a real Indigenous Homestay at our Eco Lodge in the village. Maybe you wish for something more extreme? We offer Jungle Camping in the middle of the Forest for the more daring and a professional Birdwatching tour to discover the many species of our forest, such as the Harpy Eagle.

Eco tourism to discover the wonders of the Darien. Travel Darien Panama´s values line perfectly with natures desire.

Adventurous

Adventurous trips to broaden your vision of the world. Discover untouched regions and wake your lust for adventure with our guided tours.

Immerge in a Indigenous Homestay and discovver the way of life of an authentic tribe. The Emberá of La Chunga are ready to welcome you.

WHERE TO GO

Our Expeditions & Experiences

Indigenous homestay.

Jungle Expedition

Birdwatching tours, indigenous living.

Live in a real Indigenous Emberá village and experience our unique way of life. Our visitors say it is an incredibly enriching and eye opening, once - in - a - lifetime experience. We are ready to welcome you with open arms in the Indigenous village of La Chunga.

Animal Richness

Discover the diversity of the Darien forest. An incredibly diverse and alive forest with more species of birds and animals than you can imagine. Discover the Harpy Eagle, The Jaguar, or one of the many types of snakes to be found in the depth of the jungle.

The Documentary

Our Emberá tribe is one of the most well preserved indigenous communities of Panama and have an extraordinary culture. When you visit us, we will welcome you in our village and introduce you to our traditions in a unique experience way.

Solarte Barqueno

Indigenous / Owner of Travel Darien Panama

Testimonials

Definitely visit the emberá la chunga village in the darién.

“We visited La Chunga for a weekend (2 nights and 2 days). Solarte, of Traveldarienpanama.com helped organize the visit. We stayed in lovely huts (With no wall, but good mosquito nets) With Rutilio and Bremilda (Solarte´s brothers family). The village is very safe, calm and full of lovely people and children.”

Visit La Chunga

“We just returned from our second vist to La Chunga. Not much has changed in almost 3 years – the journey to get there is difficult, beautiful scenery, and wonderful people. They will welcome you and show you traditional music, dance, and crafts. They have built 2 home stay accommodations in traditional style. If you are looking for immersion this is the place. Solarte has a new website: www.traveldarienpanama.com. Go visit this unique place and help support the village.”

Off the beaten path in La Chunga Village

“What a unique experience to share the daily life with this very nice family. We enjoyed taking our bath in the river by the village and trekking in the jungle to discover the fauna and flora. We had a great guide who explained us about the medicinal usage of plants and also about the animals surrounding us. We liked the simplicity of the lifestyle and the interesting conversations on cultural differences. We hope to return to spend more time to discover the Darien.”

Our Accommodation

We offer two different accommodations for you .

For the Homestay experience and the Birdwatching tour, you will be living in our comfortable Eco Lodge Cabins in our village of La Chunga

During your trip with us you can stay in our comfortable Eco lodge cabins which are located right next to our house. This is part of the Homestay Experience and you will be living side to side with us and our family. 

The lodges are simple, with no walls but we have but a solid mosquito net, so you don´t have to worry about bugs in the night! Come experience our homestay experience and live like we do.

Jungle experience

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Jungles of the Darien

Explore one of Central America’s most untamed regions, the Darien. With its exuberant rainforests, endless meandering rivers, and its local people, this is an expedition of a lifetime. One of the best ways to experience the Darien is by joining our custom trips.

At your hotel in Panama City or the International airport of Tocumen at the time of your arrival.

Comfortable athletic shoes and light leisure clothing, jacket, mosquito repellent and sunscreen. A hat and sunglasses  are recommended. Hiking boots highly recommended

Welcome to the Darien

Pirre station, darien national park, return to panama city.

Note:   Weather or other circumstances may delay us or cause us to detour something on the itinerary. Expect primitive conditions throughout the tour and programs and itineraries may vary according to weather conditions. Please enquire about the multiple possibilities.   All our Darien expeditions can be tailor-made for your needs and interests.

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Cross Panama's Final Frontier

Available dates.

• From 06 Apr 2024 To 20 Apr 2024 Days 14 Price £3,499
• Destination Americas
• Activity Hiking & Trekking + Mixed Activity
• Terrain Jungle

The almost impenetrably dense rainforests of the Darien Gap are the one missing link in the Pan-American highway. Home only to a handful of lost civilisations, a myriad of unique species and mist-shrouded mountains – its humid depths and 5,000 year old Petroglyphs have lured intrepid souls for centuries. Take on this pioneering jungle expedition to be one of the few explorers to trek the Darien Gap on foot.

The aim of this epic jungle trekking expedition is to trek a route through the infamous Darien Gap on foot from Puerto Quimba to Jicaralito on the Pacific coast.

Forging a route through the humid, mostly uninhabited rainforests – which divide North America from South – you’ll uncover 5,000-year-old stone carvings seen only by a privileged handful of explorers for generations.

In the company of renowned naturalist and local expert Rick Morales, you’ll scour the trees and jungle floor for signs of wildlife and meet Embera Indians en route (an autonomous indigenous Indian group living in the Darien). At night, you’ll wild camp in hammocks near isolated village communities.  Take on the challenge to trek the Gap, and break through one of adventure travel’s final frontiers.

• Explore the legendary jungles which separate the Americas.
• Cross rivers, hack through vegetation and ascend steep terrain.
• Test your grit and perseverance in a merciless environment.
• Meet local villagers including Embera Indians.
• See the mysterious petroglyphs, remnants of an ancient culture.
• Explore the jungle rivers by boat.

What our teams say

“This expedition went off flawlessly. Rick’s solid knowledge of the area, inhabitants, wildlife, flora and fauna contributed to a remarkable experience. This is a strenuous trip – but well worth the effort. Highly recommended.” –  Randall Peeters, 2018 teammate.

The Darien Gap

The Darien Gap is a geographical challenge; its near impenetrable jungles the only interruption in the otherwise complete, 30,000-mile-long Pan-American Highway. For centuries its mystery lured and seemingly swallowed up ill-prepared explorers in its canopied, labyrinthine jungles. Travel writer, Hilary Bradt, describes it as a ‘swampy wasteland crawling with venomous creatures, ready at a moment’s notice to suck unsuspecting explorers into its oozing depths’.

This reputation warned off many would-be adventurers away. Even today, crossing the gap remains a pioneering achievement for those who succeed. Of the handful of successful crossings in the last 50 years (Secret Compass teams aside), the most well documented is possibly the 1975 motorised crossing undertaken by the British explorer, Col. John Blashford-Snell.

The Embera Indians

The Embera are one of Panama’s indigenous Indian groups, living in the Darien along the shores of the Chucunaque, Sambu and Tuira rivers. They live in small villages of five to 20 houses and have their own form of autonomous government and rules, separate from the Panamanian government. Some still live off the land hunting wild fish and game using traditional methods. While the Embera have long been known for their distinctive appearance – wearing brightly coloured skirts and painting their bodies in intricate geometric patterns – they’re just as likely to be wearing normal western clothes these days. Smartphones and satellite TV too have found their way into the jungle’s remotest reaches. Teammates keen to learn from a ‘host and guest’ experience when staying near villages (rather than expecting to observe contrived displays of traditional culture) will leave feeling rewarded.

The Petroglyphs

Petroglyphs are rock engravings, often associated with prehistoric peoples. The ‘Yarre Mongara’ or Monkey Stone was documented by Robert Hyman (an American photographer-explorer) and Daniel Castaneda (a local Embera Indian) in 1995. Previously only known to the local Embera Indians who inhabit the area, the petroglyphs were dated to 3000-5000 BC. Hyman returned in 2005 to discover other sites though the area remains largely unexplored with more sites potentially remaining undiscovered.

Escaping colonisation

Arriving in what are now the Americas, the Spanish first settled in the Darien region in 1510. Their initial efforts to colonise were torched by indigenous tribes a few years later. Later came the Scottish, who founded a coastal trading colony. They ultimately failed too, with settlers perishing from disease and attack and a loss of wealth so significant that Scotland was all but bankrupted. If history had played out here as elsewhere in the world during this period, the Darien would be today one of the most populated regions in the Americas. Instead, it remains as wild today as it was during the days of the attempted conquests.

Rick Morales is one of Panama’s most respected naturalists and guides having worked there since 1998. In recent years he has been directly involved with the rediscovery of the colonial trail, Camino Real Colonial. Rick is frequently quoted in articles and literature concerning the Darien Gap and its people, flora and fauna. Feedback for Rick is consistently of the ‘embarrassingly good’ variety. His local connections and knowledge ensure that the team is kept best informed at all times, with teammates always keen to pick his brains on topics from the jungle and its inhabitants to the current or historical political situation in the region. In 2011 Rick became the first person to walk the Panama Trail, a thru-hike from the Colombian border to Costa Rica. This is part of the Trans-Panama project which aims to develop and map sections of trail connecting regions and people throughout Panama.

Wildlife in the Darien

There is a staggering range of bird life in the Darien including the harpy eagle, four species of macaw, kingfishers and tropical toucans. The region is also home to jaguars, tapirs, anteaters, monkeys, iguanas, snakes, frogs and caimans. Despite its natural riches, expedition leader Rick is keen for teammates to arrive with sensible expectations about bird and animal spotting. This expedition is a challenging trek in a region known for its wildlife, rather than a staged safari with guaranteed sightings. He’s recently seen all manner of creatures from troops of monkeys to a stealthy puma… so fingers crossed the forest is on your side!

Secret Compass runs expeditions with framework itineraries, rather than guided tours with set daily plans. Read more about Our Approach  here . The following is the outline plan for this epic expedition – the ‘substance’ rather than the specifics. A fuller itinerary is provided in the Expedition Handbook, available on request or upon application to join the team.

Teammates arrive

All teammates will arrive into Panama city at or before 1600 on Day 1. Teammates will then make their own way to the downtown hotel where your Secret Compass leader Rick Morales will welcome you. The expedition officially begins this early evening, with an expedition briefing and team dinner.

On expedition

The action begins with a motorised boat journey to the start of the trek. Led by Rick and accompanied by his robust support team, you will then set forth into the jungle to trek deep into the heart of the Darien National Park. For the next ten days you will chop through overgrown wild jungle; picking up little-used paths now and then, wading through rivers, and carrying all essentials with you. Where possible, food supplies will be supplemented with fresh food picked up from villages on the way.

This trekking section of the expedition also includes an adventure out to find the ancient petroglyphs, lost to most in the heart of the overgrown Darien. Carvings uncovered, the toughest phase of the trek commences; a route ascending up and over a jungle-clad mountain range to reach the coast. Exit the jungle at last onto the welcome openness of the ocean shore safe in the knowledge that you’re one of the few people to have trekked the notorious Darien Gap.

Goal achieved

Once out of the jungle, the team will get a short transfer to Playa Muerto, before awaiting the return motorised boat journey to Porto Quimba. It’s then a drive back into Panama City for a celebratory team meal and a hotel night. Teammates are free to depart on flights or onward travel at any time on Day 15.

Secret Compass expeditions are achievable by anyone with a healthy lifestyle and a good level of general fitness. Team members should be willing to be part of a team working together to achieve the goal of the expedition. The biggest challenge on this expedition will be trekking on steep terrain.

Teammates who arrive without meeting the agreed minimum fitness requirements can jeopardise themselves and the team’s expedition goal so take training seriously. Prepare as appropriate and arrive fit and ready to go.

Applicants will receive a Handbook with further expedition information. Get in touch with any fitness, health, training or kit questions that remain. Expedition leader Rick also prefers a Skype conversation with teammates in advance to ensure that fitness expectations and kit needs are met.

Teammates must be comfortable with the following.

Minimum fitness requirements

• Trek: up to 15km per day (the going is very slow in the jungle).
• Daily activity: from six to ten hours’ trekking.
• Carry: up to 15kg per person in a rucksack.
• Terrain: expect boggy, wet and close tropical rainforest with steep terrain and river crossings. Daily elevation gain generally up to 300 – 600m but up to 1000m on one occasion.
• Climate: a hot, humid jungle environment.
• Swim: a return boat journey and river crossings and journeys (wading and in dug-out canoes) are essential parts of this expedition. Being 100% comfortable around water is required and being able to swim will be very beneficial.
• Secret Compass leader with full communications kit and medical kit.
• Specialist guides and instructors.
• Accommodation throughout (hammocks and twin-share hotels).
• All food (snacks and meals) and soft drinks.
• Internal transport as outlined in itinerary.
• Special permits and permissions within Panama’s Darien Gap.

Not included

• International  flights / travel to and from Panama City.
• Travel insurance  (obligatory).
• Tips to local guides (discretionary but expected by the local guides in Panama. Your leader will discuss this in country and consider bring small denominations of US$ to enable this).
• Alcohol unless provided by hosts with meals.
• Personal equipment (full kit list in the Handbook).
• Any activities, accommodation or arrangements outside of the Secret Compass itinerary.

On application to join this epic expedition to Panama, potential teammates will receive a detailed Expedition Handbook. Here are some expedition-specific questions and our general  FAQ  will answer many other questions. Get in touch if your question remains unanswered.

Can you recommend any jungle kit?

The Secret Compass Journal (The Compass) contains advice on boots, shirts and trousers for jungle treks; read  The Essential Guide to Jungle Footwear  or get tips on  Jungle Survival .  Teammates will receive a full kit list which will answer most kit questions.

Can I check I’m bringing the right kit?

Our Darien expedition leader is very happy to have individual kit conversations via Skype with those booked onto this team in the build-up to departure to ensure everyone is prepared and has the right kit.

Will there be phone signal in the Darien?

There will be mobile phone coverage in Panama City at the beginning and end of the expedition. Signal in the jungle is unlikely. Joining this expedition with the mindset of escaping technology and the day-to-day routine is advisable.

Can I charge my gadgets?

Power sources are infrequent in the Darien. Each teammate is advised to bring their own spare batteries or power packs. Due to the shade of the jungle, solar packs might not work as well as usual.

Can you cater for vegetarians?

This expedition can accept people with some dietary requirements. Outline your specific needs on the Application Form to help us best provision the team and we’ll go from there.

Could local activity affect us?

Secret Compass has operated successfully in this challenging region for many years on TV and film projects, working with the very best in-country partners. If any local developments affected the planned expedition region, robust contingency plans would come into play as with all Secret Compass expeditions. In the case of the Darien expedition specifically, the team would undertake a challenging and equally adventurous jungle expedition in a different part of the Panamanian jungle.

How can I find out more?

Get in touch with SCHQ to receive a copy of the Expedition Handbook with further details on this upcoming expedition and the next steps to joining the team. request handbook contact us download page as PDF

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Darien, Panama

Eastern Panama Population: 48,378

Darien National Park Rainforest La Palma

Darien, Panama Vacation Guide

The province of  Darien  is primarily an Adventure Tourism destination! With its 16,000 sq. kilometers of extension it includes many rivers, tropical rainforests, paradisiacal beaches, the highest peak of all Panama, rich flora and fauna, and various indigenous tribes. It is also famous for being the interruption of the Interamerican Highway.

The Darien is a beautiful and wild region, located on the Eastern side of Panama, bordering with Colombia, Guna Yala and the Pacific Ocean. La Palma is the capital of the province where most locals live. The population of the Darien is divided into Africans and the indigenous tribes of the Wounaan and Embera. These tribes are famous for their precious Cocobolo woodcarvings and the weaving of baskets of various size and forms.

The  Darien National Park  occupies the largest part of the province and on its territory of 579,000 sq. hectares it protects the main and most diversified ecosystems of the region. In 1983 this National Park was declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO with its National Park as principal attraction.

Visitors of the Darien National Park will find the best conditions to observe many different species of birds, among them the Harpy Eagle, and the Jaguar, Ocelot, Howler Monkey, Tapir, Caiman and the American Crocodile. A special treat for Birders is the possibility of seeing the Golden-headed Quetzal which lives here and in neighboring Colombia. Other attractions of the National Park include gorgeous white sand beaches, cliffy coasts, mangroves, waterfalls, and a lot of tropical primary forest.

Within the park travelers will also find the highest peak in Panama with an elevation of 1,875 meters (6,150 ft.). The best season to climb up to  Cerro Takarkuna  is after the rainy season in January. It is a dream for adventurists and provides excellent opportunities to explore the forest and rivers. The park is under ANAM's (Autoridad Nacional del Medio Ambiente) administration and it is necessary to ask for a permit to visit the park before you arrive. ANAM has constructed simple accommodation, but there are also camping sites.

Location and Map

Our Darien, Panama vacation guides can help you get the most out of this beautiful city. Fill out our Panama trip planner  to get started!

Darién Travel Guide

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The sparsely populated 17,000 square kilometres that make up Darién are one of the last great, untamed wildernesses in America. The beginning of an immense forest that continues almost unbroken across the border into the Chocó region of Colombia and down the Pacific coast to Ecuador, this was the first region on the American mainland to be settled by the Spanish. Although they extracted great wealth from gold mines deep in the forest at Cana, they were never able to establish effective control over the region, hampered by the almost impassable terrain, the fierce resistance put up by its inhabitants and European pirates and bands of cimarrones .

Artesanía and seafood: riches of Darién

Into colombia: the darién gap, parque nacional darién, the settling of new edinburgh, the darién highway.

The Interamericana is the only road that takes the plunge and enters the region, but it goes no further than the small town of Yaviza, 276km east of Panama City. Along the border with Colombia, the Parque Nacional Darién , the largest and most important protected area in Panama, safeguards vast swathes of forest that support one of the most pristine and biologically diverse ecosystems in the world, as well as a large indigenous population.

Until quite recently, the combination of drug trafficking and the decades-long Colombian civil war spilling over into Panama has made the border area utterly treacherous. The Marxist guerrillas of the Colombian Revolutionary Armed Forces (FARC) have long maintained bases close to the border in Darién, but right-wing paramilitary groups backed by powerful landowners and drug traffickers have taken to pursuing them, terrorizing isolated Panamanian communities they accuse of harbouring the guerrillas. Given the security concerns affecting the border area, including parts of the national park and the Comarca Emberá–Cemaco, a visit to southwestern Darién is the safest way to experience the ecology and culture of the region independently. The two most popular routes into the area are via Yaviza and El Real to the ranger station at Rancho Frío (also called Pirre Station), or to the twin Emberá/Afro-Darienite settlement of Puerto Indio / Sambú up the Río Sambú, usually accessed via La Palma. Once in Darién, you can ask for news of recent incidents or developments.

Top image: Darien © Rafal Cichawa/Shutterstock

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Darién’s Golfo de San Miguel , where the flow of jungle rivers meets the abundant Pacific Ocean, is a nutrient-rich, predator-safe environment in which seafood flourishes. Calamari, giant shrimp, sea bass, snapper, black conch, oysters and lobsters are only a few of the marine treats you’ll find in many a fisherman’s catch – though sadly they don’t often make it into the region’s restaurants.

The other speciality of the region is the artesanía made by the Wounaan and Emberá communities: weavings of delicately intricate baskets, plates and masks are made with dyed and natural grasses to create stunning works of art; incredibly intricate carvings are also fashioned out of tagua (vegetable ivory) or cocobolo wood. You can visit indigenous communities, meet the artists and directly support the communities by buying local pieces. Many of the finer items, often sold to exclusive shops in Panama City, where the prices are hiked, take several months to create.

The Darién Gap is a band of dense and entirely untamed rainforest, 100km or so in length, that keeps the northern strand of the Interamericana (Panamerican Highway) from joining up with the southern strand. Crossing the Gap was, for many years, one of the most celebrated adventures in Latin America. However, for some years its undertaking has been banned by the Panamanian authorities while travellers who have ignored this ruling have disappeared or been killed attempting the trip. It’s also worth remembering that there is a war raging across the border in Colombia.

Currently the Panamanian authorities do not allow civilians to travel east of Boca de Cupé. The two ways to travel to Colombia are via Guna Yala and along the Caribbean coast, or along the Pacific coast, by catching a ride in one of the commercial boats that leaves Panama City or La Palma for Jaqué, and then from there to Colombia. This latter route is not recommended as boats are very infrequent, and will be extremely basic, may lack sufficient life-jackets, or may not be robust enough for the sea when rough.

LA PALMA ’s spectacular setting, overlooking the broad mouth of the Río Tuira, surrounded by densely forested mountains and with ruined colonial forts for neighbours, makes it a worthy capital of Darién Province, however small. Brightly painted houses are cake-layered down a steep slope to the waterfront and the town’s only street , a narrow strip of concrete. The rubbish that clings to the pilings by the water’s edge makes the place less scenic than it might be, and there’s not a whole lot to do other than soak in the views before moving on.

Although you can easily work out how much transport to La Palma will cost, it’s far less easy to estimate what any onward travel is likely to set you back – it will be by boat, and the price of fuel is steadily rising and even scheduled departures are erratic. The opportunities to come into contact with indigenous communities are greater in the Sambú area, but getting there from here can be expensive if there’s no scheduled transport or you can’t find enough travel companions to keep the cost down. While you’re here, check in with the police who can update you on any developments or incidents in the region.

Covering almost 5800 square kilometres of pristine rainforest along the border with Colombia, PARQUE NACIONAL DARIÉN is possibly the most biologically diverse region on earth – more than five hundred bird species have been reported here. Inhabited by scattered indigenous communities, the park contains the largest expanse of forest in Central America that has not been affected by logging and provides a home for countless rare and endangered species, including jaguars, harpy eagles and several types of macaw. Parts of the park are safe to visit, but the security situation can change rapidly so phone ahead to the park office in Yaviza to confirm safe entry points into the park.

Kitting yourself out in Darién

Whether you visit Darién with a tour operator or on your own, you should pack wisely.

You will need trousers and long-sleeved shirts, partly to keep the huge variety of insect life at bay, but also because it can get quite cool during the night. Do not take or wear anything that resembles army fatigues or has a camouflage pattern.

You’ll be able to pick up basic provisions (including bottled water), but it is advisable to pack a small supply of food even so, plus a ration of bottled water, and water-purifying tablets. If you’re sleeping on a floor in a village you will need something to sleep on, in or under, and a mosquito net. Bring a cover for your pack for boat travel and damp conditions. Binoculars will greatly enhance your chance of appreciating the area’s abundant birdlife.

You should start taking anti-malaria medication well before you arrive. Note that chloroquine is not sufficient in Darién – check the exact requirements with your doctor before your trip. Also ensure you have insect repellent and anti-histamine cream, to sooth your bites.

There are only two banks in the region, both with ATMs: at Metetí and La Palma. It’s a good idea to bring a large stash of US$1 bills.

The small riverine town of SAMBÚ , the most developed settlement for many kilometres around in this part of the jungle, is the best place to base yourself for affordable exploration in Darién. Although there’s little to do in the town itself, a day spent among the locals lends valuable insight into the simple and tough livelihoods of those inhabiting this culturally diverse and isolated community. Moreover, the boat trip up the sinuous Río Sambú is a thrill in itself.

Exploring the area around Sambú is most rewarding if you are flexible about where you want to go. Activities range from day-trips hiking in the surrounding rainforest, or fishing and birdwatching on the river, to overnight stays in Emberá communities such as Villa Queresia – or, when water levels are high enough, remote Pavarandó , a village marking the last navigable point of the Río Sambú. Your accommodation may be able to fix you up with a guide, and you can organize a guide via the tourism committee in Puerto Indio if you want to explore the comarca itself.

In the late 1600s, the Scots gambled half the country’s wealth on a colony in Darién in the hopes of transforming Scotland into a trading power to rival England. A fleet of five ships and 1200 men set sail in July 1698 and, arriving in the Caribbean, attempted to trade goods and restock the ships, though their wigs, shoes, stockings, thick cloth and Bibles found few takers in the tropics. The fleet finally anchored in Caledonia Bay, and for five months the Scots worked hard to build New Edinburgh , hindered by low rations and disease. The only help they received came from the local Guna. When, after ten months, the promised supply ships failed to materialize, the Scots set sail for home. Only one ship, the Caledonia , made it back to Scotland. Refusing to believe the rumours that the colony had been abandoned, the company directors had already sent a second fleet of four ships, as poorly equipped as the first, but shortly after their arrival in Panama in 1700, they drew the attention of the Spanish based in Portobelo. Small battles soon broke out – with the Guna lending their military muscle to the Scots – but within six months the Scots finally surrendered to the Spanish. They were allowed to evacuate with full military honours, but none of the ships made it back home. The venture crippled Scotland financially, leaving the kingdom at the mercy of rival England. Several years later, in 1707, England agreed to compensate all those who had subscribed to the venture in return for the creation of a joint kingdom of England and Scotland.

East of Panama City the DARIÉN HIGHWAY (the Interamericana) is now paved all the way to Yaviza, though lack of maintenance and heavy rainfall at certain times of year mean that you’re bound to experience some bumpy patches along the way. Just before the large reservoir that is Laguna Bayano, the highway passes through the quiet village of El Llano, where a side road leads up towards Guna Yala . From the lake the highway rolls on for 196km through a desolate, deforested landscape, passing Emberá-Wounaan hamlets, with their characteristic open-walled houses raised on stilts, and half-hearted roadside settlements. The highway ends on the banks of the Río Chucunaque at Yaviza , the start of the Darién Gap, though most buses only go as far as Metetí .

The people of Darién

Darién’s population is made up of three main groups: black, indigenous and colonist.

Other than a few Guna communities, the indigenous population of Darién is composed of two closely related but distinct peoples, the Wounaan and the more numerous Emberá , both semi-nomadic South American rainforest societies. Recognizable by the black geometric designs with which they traditionally decorate their bodies, the Emberá-Wounaan, as they are collectively known, have been migrating across the border from Colombia for the past two centuries. Only since the 1960s have they begun to settle in permanent villages and establish official recognition of their territorial rights in the form of a comarca , divided into two districts: the Comarca Emberá Cemaco , in the north, and the Comarca Emberá Sambú , in the southwest.

The black people of Darién, descended from cimarrones and released slaves, are known as Darienitas or libres (the free) and are culturally distinct from the Afro-Antillano populations of Colón and Panama City.

The colonists ( colonos ), meanwhile, are the most recent arrivals, poor mestizo peasants forced to look for new land to cultivate after having degraded their own lands in the central Panamanian provinces of the Azuero Peninsula through overgrazing cattle. Many colonists still wear their distinctive straw sombreros as a badge of identity and maintain the folk traditions of the regions they abandoned. The construction and subsequent improvement of the Darién Highway has facilitated the colonists’ access to new land, which has inevitably brought them into conflict with the indigenous populations, as some make illegal encroachments into indigenous territory.

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Province of Darien

The Darien province is located at the extreme oriental of the Panama Republic.

It is the largest province in Panama and also the least developed: the landscape is covered by rugged mountains, rivers, virgin forests and beautiful beaches.

It is considered the last safe home for many endangered species, being considered one of the most complete tropical ecosystems in America.

The Darien National Park is the largest in the Republic of Panama. In 1981 UNESCO included it in its list of World Heritage Sites.

It is the largest national park, not only in Panama, but also in all of Central America, extending beyond the border with Colombia. The protected area rises from the Pacific coasts with beaches, mangroves and coastal lagoons, to the rain forests on the top of Cerro Tacarcuna.

In this national park you will find white sand beaches, rocky coastlines, mangroves, marshes and tropical forests of high and low lands that are home to exceptional fauna and flora, where the most important rivers in the region are born.

The most common species are the macaw, the parrot, the tapir and the Harpy Eagle (national bird of the Republic of Panama). With more than 40 endemic species of orchids and about 450 types of birds, five of them endemic to the area, Darién is home to three indigenous groups, Emberá, Wounaan and Guna, who still maintain their ancestral customs.

409/5000The Darién National Park allows you to combine adventure and experience through mangroves, forests and marshes, and dances of the communities. The walks with observation of birds, mammals and vegetation and the tours of the navigable rivers Tuira and Chucunaque are some of the proposals to enter this place. The sandy beaches and rocky coastlines allow the practice of water sports.

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Darien, Panama

There are few places on Earth like the Darién. Since its introduction to the outside world, the Darién has peaked the interest of biologists, anthropologists, drug-runners, business owners, and even foreign nations. It is a place with immense beauty and incredible bounty, where the natural world is raw and the indigenous people real. It is Panama’s – and by some measure, the world’s – last frontier.

The Darién is huge. The province itself spans some 16,671 square kilometers (6,437 sq. mi.) and stretches to the border with Colombia. It contains the country’s largest national park and most extensive lowland tropical forest. But with only 40,000 inhabitants, the Darién is also the most sparsely populated part of Panama. Its residents live in small, impoverished towns, and include members of the Guna and Emberà-Wounaan indigenous groups.

In the minds of many, however, the Darién is little more than the place where the Interamerican Highway ends and the Darién Gap begins. The gap is the only missing link in a system of roads that connects North and South America, all the way from Alaska to Patagonia. It is a source of both pride and contention within Panama. Conservationists want it to stay untouched to better protect the biodiversity that thrives within its borders. Developers see dollar signs in its beautiful outdoor areas and virtually limitless land. The battle over this 100-kilometer (62 mi) stretch will be duked out in the coming decades and will be extremely important to the country’s future.

The Darién has three main towns, La Palma, Yaviza and El Real, none of which have any inherent draw for tourists. La Palma is the provincial capital and most populated town in the Darién. Set along the Pacific coastline, its location is stunning, but the town itself dirty and unfriendly. The highway that cuts down the center of the Darién province comes to an abrupt halt in the town of Yaviza. Yaviza has scant services and, aside from being a place to refuel on gas or snacks, is of little interest to tourists. El Real de Santa María (or simply El Real) sits along the banks of the Río Tuira, and is friendlier and more laid-back than Yaviza. It’s the closest transportation hub to Pirre Station.

Visitors to the Darién will undoubtedly visit the national park. Parque Nacional Darién, which spans a total of 579,000 hectares (1,430,740 acres), is the largest national park in Central America. Established in 1980, the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981 and a World Biosphere Reserve in 1982. Rising from the Pacific coast to the top of Cerro Tacarcuna (the Darién’s tallest peak), the park’s trails traverse all types of terrain and weave through foliage of Jurassic proportions. The park protects habitat for avian species such as the scarlet macaw, toucan and harpy eagle, as well as mammalian species including the ocelot, jaguar, Baird’s tapir, anteater, sloth, coatis and kinkajou.

A trek through Parque Nacional Darién is an incredible experience but should not be attempted without a knowledgeable guide. There are several places to stay within the park. Santa Cruz de Cana, known simply as Cana, is one of the best. It’s the most remote location in all of Panama and is host to both fantastic outdoors and relatively comfortable facilities.

Given its isolation today, it’s hard to believe that Cana once entertained a lively past. Vast gold deposits were discovered here in 1665 and mines and settlements followed. At one point during the Spanish colonial rule, Cana grew to be a town of 20,000 people. However, attacks by the English and disease forced the Spanish to leave in 1727, and the jungle reclaimed much of the area. These days, Cana is known as a nature destination of epic proportions. Spider and howler monkeys hang about abandoned mines, and jaguars occasionally stroll down the Cana airstrip. The area is also one of the top ten birding destinations on Earth.

Pirre Station is another place to visit the park. It’s similar to Cana in look and feel but is much cheaper. Trails from the station wind up mountains and to waterfalls, and give visitors the opportunity to spot macaws, spider monkeys, and sloths. As with Cana, the facilities here are extremely basic (little more than concrete rooms with beds), but are surrounded by some of the country’s most impressive outdoor areas.

Aside from the park, another major draw to the Darién is the more accessible and less-rugged coastline. One such place is Bahía de Piñas (Piñas Bay), which is considered to be one of the best sport fishing destinations on the planet. Nearly 200 deep-sea fishing world records have been set here, more than anywhere else on Earth. At just 56 km (35 mi) from the Colombian border, Bahía de Piñas is deep in the Darién and full of both natural and cultural vibrancy. And unlike other places in the Darién, it’s possible to lodge in relative luxury here.

The easiest and safest way to visit the Darién is with a tour operator. They set a coherent itinerary and facilitate a safe, tailor-made adventure into the park. We do not recommend travelers going into the Darién on their own. Those who decide to visit the Darién need to be clear that they are heading into a place where tourist services and modern amenities are largely nonexistent. Be prepared to be dirty and sweaty at times and sleep in basic conditions. Safety is also an issue. In recent years, Colombian guerrillas and drug runners have made the forested area between Panama and Colombia unsafe for travelers. Knowing which areas are safe or unsafe can be difficult. Due to this, portions of the park may be off-limits and not allow travelers at any given time.

Anyone interested in visiting the Darién should first consult their home embassy and register their arrival with Panamanian officials. The Darién is a fantastic, dynamic place; but exploring the park without the aid of a professional guide is dangerous and stupid. Be smart, do your research, and take precautions when visiting this part of Panama.

Where to go in Darien , Panama

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Darien National Park

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Darien National Park - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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Inside the Darién Gap, one of the world’s most dangerous jungles

The darién gap: what to know before you go. wait. maybe don't go.

The Pan-American Highway is an epic 19,000-mile route that starts at Prudhoe Bay in Alaska and terminates at the southernmost end of South America in Ushuaia in the country of Argentina . It’s continuous except for a small section missing along the southern border of Panama, often referred to as one of the most inhospitable places on the planet — this is the Darién Gap. It’s 66 roadless miles of dense, mountainous jungle and swamp filled with armed guerillas, drug traffickers, and some of the world’s most deadly creatures covering the border of Panama and Colombia.

Fer-de-lance pit vipers

Drug traffickers and farc armed guerillas, brazilian wandering spiders, black scorpions, jungle heat and dirty water, spiked chunga palm trees, trench foot, cold war bombs.

The environmental impact on the area and the sheer cost of building roads through it have thwarted any previous attempts. Others are concerned that “the Gap” is a natural barrier against drugs and disease flowing freely into North America and the U.S.

The first-ever successful vehicle expedition through the Darién Gap was led by British army officer Gavin Thompson. His team of six started in Alaska, driving all the way to Panama in a newly created Range Rover. Hitting the Darién Gap, he brought in a team of 64 engineers and scientists to hack their way through the jungle and float the Range Rovers across the rivers.

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Thompson and every expedition since ran headlong into what the Gap is most famous for: Things that will kill you . The list of deadly things inside the Gap is lengthy, and dehydration and starvation are the least of your concerns. Instead, you should be concerned with these very real threats.

The fer-de-lance pit viper is one of the most venomous creatures in the Darién Gap. They’re irritable, fast-moving, and large enough to bite above your knees. Antivenom usually solves the problem if you get bitten. But, if left untreated, the venom can cause local necrosis (death of body tissue), leading to gangrene or, in the worst cases, death.

Conflict journalist Jason Motlagh crossed the Gap in 2016 for a Dateline story . After receiving their antivenom kit and instructions for use before the crossing, he said, “If one of us is bitten, we have ten minutes to inject the antivenom before death. We can only carry six vials. If a larger pit viper were to strike, the expert concedes no amount of antivenom would be enough to save us. We might as well lie down and smoke a cigarette until the lights go out.”

It’s becoming increasingly difficult to bring drugs into the U.S., so drug traffickers are turning to other avenues. The lawlessness and lack of many residents make the Darién Gap a perfect path for cocaine and other drugs on their journey from South America. 

The Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) have made a name for themselves since 1964, terrorizing the government and many cities in Colombia. Many from the group have made their home in the lawless jungles of the Darién Gap. A backpacker from Sweden was shot in the head in 2013 and found two years later. Multiple others have been kidnapped for weeks or months after venturing into the Gap.

Since a peace deal in 2017 with the United Nations, the group has reformed into an official political party, but a few thousand rebels still continue with drugs, arms, and human trafficking.

Spiders fill the jungles of the Darién Gap, but one of the most “medically important” is the Brazilian Wandering spider. “Medically important” is the nice term for “you’re going to have a really bad day if this bites you.”

This family of spiders (there are more than one!) has a leg span of five to seven inches. They wander the jungle floor at night and love to hide in people’s hiking boots , logs, and banana plants. They’ve been nicknamed the Banana spider, as that’s often where people run into them. Bites from this spider can put you in the hospital or, from particularly bad ones, cause death in 2 to 6 hours.

Scorpions look like they’re from another planet. A few species prefer conditions in Colombia and southern Panama and call the Darién Gap home, with the black scorpion being one of those species. Black scorpions can be two to four inches long with a black or reddish-black coloring, which gives them their name.

They live under rocks and logs and hunt for larvae and cockroaches at night. They are part of the thick-tailed scorpion family, giving them their stocky appearance. The sting is very painful but, thankfully, is rarely deadly to humans … as long as you are treated in a safe amount of time.

Even the heat in the jungle can put a serious dent in your mood. Temperatures in The Gap can reach a balmy 95 degrees Fahrenheit with 95% humidity, creating a terrible problem if you run out of water. With trips through The Gap averaging between 20 to 50 days, you had better be prepared to stay hydrated.

There’s a lot of water in the Darién Gap but it is far from clean. Even a sip can hold a host of viruses or parasites that could ruin the rest of your trip. Hopefully, you have a good water filter with you.

Many kinds of trees call the jungle home, and the local people make use of all of them. The fiber from the leaves of the Chunga Palm is used to make everything from furniture, hats, and jewelry to fishing nets.

Perhaps that’s why this palm has one of the best defenses for a tree in the area. Long black spines — up to eight inches long — cover the Chunga to prevent animals from climbing and taking the fruit. Unfortunately for us, these spines are covered in all sorts of bacteria. One brush with a Chunga and you might find yourself with infected puncture wounds embedded with shards of Chunga spines.

During the mid-eighties, Helge Peterson found himself in Colombia trying to complete a motorcycle tour from Argentina to Alaska. A small problem stood in his way: The Darién Gap. Convincing a young German backpacker to make the journey with him, they started their journey together. They began the 20-day trek hauling Helge’s 400-pound BMW motorcycle into the jungle, through rivers and ravines.

At the end of each day, tired and broken, Helge and his backpacking partner would set up camp and start the removal of ticks , sometimes several hundred at a time, from their skin and clothing. Ticks in the area can carry Ehrlichiosis or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, neither of which you want in the middle of the jungle days or weeks from the nearest hospital.

Trench foot was first described during Napoleon’s retreat from Russia in the winter of 1812, but the name references a condition common during World War I. It originates with wet skin that isn’t allowed to dry. Wet conditions and limited blood flow cause the tissue to tingle or itch, often turn red or blue, and eventually decay. Any open wounds quickly develop fungal infections. With all of this happening in as little as 10 hours, it doesn’t give you much time to fix the problem.

Botflies like to get under your skin, literally . They start by laying their eggs on mosquitos. What do mosquitos like to do? Bite humans. This conveniently deposits the botfly eggs under our skin. They then hatch, and the larvae have a nice warm place to live.

Through a small hole in your skin, the larva can breathe. They feed on the flesh in their little skin cave and stay cozy and warm. Once they grow into bumblebee-sized adults, they crawl out to lay eggs somewhere else. If there are many larvae involved, it’s called myiasis, meaning an infestation under the skin. Yum. That’s why it pays to pack a good bug spray.

During the Cold War, the U.S. military ran thousands of training runs in the area of the Darién Gap, dropping bombs over the jungle. Most of the bombs detonated. However, some did not. Those bombs have been covered over by jungle growth and are now hidden on the jungle floor under a layer of vegetation. These remaining undetonated explosives still lie in the jungle, waiting for some poor, unfortunate soul to step off the trail — what little trail is there — just a bit too far and set off a massive explosion.

The Darién Gap is home to many predators, both human and animal, but one of the most deadly is the American crocodile. Crocodiles are apex predators, with no known natural enemies, and anything that they come in contact with is potential prey, including humans.

Crocodiles prefer to hunt at night, but they will attack and eat prey at any time. They hide in the water near the edge and wait for an unsuspecting animal (or unlucky hiker) to come to the water and then the crocodile strikes, dragging its prey down under the water to drown it.

So the Darién Gap sounds downright peachy to visit, doesn’t it?

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Birds of Canopy Camp Darien

High Season: $3,350  —  Green Season: $2,335 Rate in US$ per person (+ taxes), double occupancy

Canopy Camp

7-night, all-inclusive birding package.

Darién, as this entire eastern-most region of Panama is called, is perhaps the most diverse and species-rich region of Central America. Long coveted by avid birders as an impenetrable haven for rare species, this region is now readily accessible by a highway extending through the spine of Panama right into the heart of this bird-rich land. During this exciting, highly recommended 7-night adventure, we visit, en route to the Canopy Camp, the Bayano Reservoir, to look for such specialties as the starkly beautiful Black Antshrike, Rufous-winged Antwren and stunning Orange-crowned Oriole. In Darién, we visit large tracts of mature lowland rainforest to seek out Rufous-winged Antwren, Bare-crowned Antbird and Golden-green Woodpecker; and the swampy meadows along the Pan-American Highway, the haunts of the magnificent Spot-breasted Woodpecker! We will enjoy great birding on this Panama wildlife tour through the mature secondary forests, tranquil lagoons and riversides of this region, where we hope to get excellent views of Stripe-throated Wren, Black-collared Hawk, Black-capped Donacobius, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Large-billed Seed-Finch and others.

After each Panama wildlife tour, we will spend all our nights at Canopy Camp Darien, where we will enjoy comfortable, large, safari-style tent accommodations, each with full-size beds, private bathroom facilities with refreshing showers, flush toilets, electricity from solar panels, and fans. The protected forests of the Filo del Tallo Hydrological Reserve surround the camp. In the vicinity of the camp itself we will enjoy such regional specialties as Gray-cheeked Nunlet, White-headed Wren, Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Pale-bellied Hermit right in the gardens! This Panama wildlife tour offers other surprises, such as Spectacled Parrotlet, Dusky-backed Jacamar, Double-banded Graytail, King Vulture and the majestic Harpy Eagle! You are sure to have the birding adventure of a lifetime!

7 Night Package: High Season: $3,350  —  Green Season: $2,335

**add 3 nights at Canopy Tower or Canopy Lodge for only $1,110 (High) or $780 (Green) ***Packages normally begin on Sundays

Rates in US$ per person (+ taxes), double occupancy

On the first night of this Panama wildlife tour, accommodations will be at the Riande Aeropuerto Hotel or at the Crowne Plaza Panama Airport Hotel in Panama City. Your guide will meet you bright and early (around 6:30 am) in your hotel lobby the next morning to head to the Canopy Camp, where you will stay for the following 6 nights. This is an all-inclusive tour with an active itinerary—daily morning and afternoon guided birding trips are included for the full duration of your Panama wildlife tour. The tour finishes mid-afternoon on the last day in Panama City.

Visiting Darién is truly an adventure, so expect the unexpected and be prepared for excitement around every corner! Our guides know well how to find the regional specialties that live here and how to dodge the ever-changing conditions of the region from season to season. The itinerary, therefore, is very flexible to our guests’ desires and targets and current conditions. Some sites are accessible year-round, while others are only worth visiting and accessible during certain seasons. Regardless, our guides and staff are bound to show you many, many birds and a great experience in the wilderness of Darién!

Panama’s National Bird: The Harpy Eagle

Darién is a stronghold for Harpy Eagles and other large forest raptors, and holds Central America’s largest population of this rare and majestic bird. If there is a site available to visit, whether an active nest or a fledged juvenile in a reliable location, it will be included in the itinerary. We can keep you informed as your trip gets closer. Please keep in mind that we can never guarantee the sighting of a Harpy Eagle (or anything in nature), even at a reliable site, but we will be sure to try if there is a chance!

If there is no nest site or juvenile bird to visit, there is still always the chance to come across a Harpy Eagle during your stay. Over the past few years, we have had Harpy Eagle sightings at several of the birding sites we visit, including a few times at the Canopy Camp itself!

Check out our Harpy Eagle & Crested Eagle Logs here:

• Harpy Eagle Log
• Crested Eagle Log

Harpy Eagles live in remote mature forest, and a full-day trip may be required to visit the site available. The following description gives you an idea of what a Harpy Eagle excursion entails:

The Harpy Eagle is our target for the day! Today we will start very early, long before sunrise, and drive to Yaviza, at the end of the Pan-American Highway. Arriving at dawn in Yaviza, we will board a “piragua”—a dugout canoe—and traverse the still waters of the Chucunaque and Tuira rivers. The river edges offer shrub and grass habitat, as well as mudflats and beaches depending on the water level. There are plenty of birds to see along the riverside: Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga, Great Blue, Cocoi, Little Blue, Tricolored, Striated and Capped Herons, Snowy Egret, White and Green Ibises, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Pied Water-Tyrant, Bronzed Cowbird, Yellow-hooded Blackbird and both Crested and Black Oropendolas. White-tailed Kite and Black-collared and Common Black Hawks may be found cruising overhead.

Upon arrival in El Real, we can scan the open areas for Spot-breasted Woodpecker and Great Potoo. We will meet a local truck and head south out of town past the airstrip, to the trailhead at the border of Darien National Park! This trail is wide, traversing through lowland rainforest and alongside a river. If very lucky, we may see Harpy Eagle or Crested Eagle, as both of these magnificent raptors roam the dense forests here. Hopefully with some success this morning, we can rest and have a picnic lunch in the field, and continue to bird along the trail. Other large forest eagles, including Ornate Hawk-Eagle, can also be found in the area, as well as Gray-cheeked Nunlet, White-fronted Nunbird, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Agami Heron, Red-throated Caracara, Chestnut-backed Antbird (the eastern Panama race shows white dots on the wings), Chestnut-fronted and Great Green Macaws, Scarlet-browed Tanager and more. After lunch and a break, we will retrace our steps and start our way back to El Real, then head back to Yaviza by river. Along the Pan-American Highway, we can scan for bird activity as the sun sets.

The following are brief descriptions of some of the birding areas you may visit during your Panama wildlife tour at Canopy Camp Darien:

Bayano Lake Area & Torti Area

As we drive along the Pan-American Highway, we will scan for roadside birds and open-field raptors including Savanna Hawk and Crested Caracara. At the bridge at Bayano Lake, a great opportunity awaits to see what we can see along the lakeside. This reservoir supports great numbers of water birds, including a large colony of Neotropic Cormorants, as well as Anhinga, Cocoi Heron and the rare Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. We will scan the water’s edge for Purple Gallinule, Pied Water-Tyrant, Smooth-billed Ani and Ruddy-breasted Seedeater. A short trail leading from the water’s edge is a great place to search for Black Antshrike, Bare-crowned Antbird, Rufous-winged Antwren and Golden-collared Manakin. Just 10 minutes down the road at Río Mono Bridge, the surrounding forest is home to One-colored Becard, Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Blue Cotinga, Pied Puffbird, Orange-crowned Oriole, Blue Ground Dove and more. We will also scan the river below for Green-and-rufous Kingfisher and the elusive Fasciated Tiger-Heron. The forest edge and scrubby roadsides around Rio Torti offer good opportunities to see Pacific Antwren, Double-banded Graytail and Little Cuckoo. At a lovely Panamanian restaurant in Torti, the hummingbirds at the feeders will no doubt capture our attention, as Long-billed Starthroat, Sapphire-throated Hummingbird, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Black-throated Mango and more take their lunch as well; great hummingbird photo opportunities abound throughout this Panama wildlife tour!

Canopy Camp Grounds & Nando’s Trail

Yellow-throated and Keel-billed Toucans call from the towering Cuipo trees; Red-lored and Mealy Parrots fly overhead; White-bellied Antbird, Bright-rumped Attila, White-headed Wren and Golden-headed Manakin sing from the surrounding forests; while Pale-bellied Hermit and Sapphire-throated Hummingbird visit the flowers around camp. Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Barred Puffbird are also seen frequently around the grounds. We will work our way into the forest on “Nando’s Trail,” in hopes of finding Tiny Hawk, Black Antshrike, Great Antshrike, Olive-backed Quail-Dove, Cinnamon Becard, Black-tailed Trogon, Double-banded Graytail, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Royal Flycatcher and Russet-winged Schiffornis. We will also be looking for groups of Red-throated Caracara, King Vulture and Short-tailed Hawk overhead in the clearings. Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Plumbeous and Zone-tailed hawks are also possible. In the open areas, the verbenas are full of hummingbird and butterfly activity, where we hope to see Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Pale-bellied Hermit, Long-billed Starthroat, Blue-throated Goldentail and if lucky, the stunning Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird feeding here. Spot-crowned Barbet, Olivaceous Piculet, White-headed Wren, Red-rumped Woodpecker and Streak-headed Woodcreeper are other birds we may encounter. If desired, we can hike up the slope to stand in the shadows of two giant Cuipo trees.

There will be an opportunity during the week to explore the grounds of the Canopy Camp at night in search of nocturnal birds and mammals, including Black-and-white and Mottled Owls, Great and Common Potoos, Kinkajous, Central American Woolly Opossum and more!

Birding the Pan-American Highway

We will head southeast and bird the forests and swampy meadows along the road toward Yaviza, at the end of the Pan-American Highway! Black-billed Flycatcher, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Jet Antbird, Black Oropendola, Pied Water-Tyrant, Bicolored and Black-collared Hawks, Pearl and White-tailed Kites, Limpkin, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Black-capped Donacobius and Red-breasted Meadowlark can all be found as we head further into Darién.

El Salto Road

El Salto Road extends 6 km north from the Pan-American Highway and ends at the mighty Río Chucunaque. This open road and surrounding dry forest is a great place to search for regional specialties including Golden-green Woodpecker, Double-banded Graytail, Blue-and-yellow and Chestnut-fronted Macaws, Black and Crested Oropendolas, Blue Cotinga, White-eared Conebill, Black-breasted Puffbird, Orange-crowned Oriole and the majestic King Vulture. A trail at the end of the road will take us into low-canopy forest, where we hope to find Bare-crowned Antbird, Pale-bellied Hermit, Olivaceous Piculet, Streak-headed Woodcreeper and Forest Elaenia.

Tierra Nueva Foundation

Adjacent to El Salto Road is the property of the Tierra Nueva Foundation. Fundación Tierra Nueva is a non-profit organization whose main mission is “working towards the sustainable development of people of the Darién Rainforest.” The property is the home of a technical school focusing on applications in agriculture. We will explore the trails of this large, forested property, in hopes of finding Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Yellow-breasted and Black-billed Flycatchers, Red-rumped Woodpecker, Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon, Cinnamon, Cinereous and One-colored Becards, White-eared Conebill, White-headed Wren and the magnificent Great Curassow. We will also search for the eastern race of the Chestnut-backed Antbird, which shows white spots on the wings.

Las Lagunas Road (Aguas Calientes) & Aruza Lagoons

This road extends 12 km south off the Pan-American Highway through open farmland, dry scrub and roadside habitat. The road eventually crosses a stream and ends at some small ponds. Along the roadsides, we hope to find Red-breasted Meadowlark, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, White-headed Wren, Smooth-billed and Greater Anis, Muscovy Duck, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Southern Lapwing, Blue-headed Parrot, Striped Cuckoo, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Buff-breasted Wren, Bananaquit, Giant and Shiny Cowbirds, Crested Oropendola, and Laughing and Aplomado Falcons. If we’re lucky, we may get a glimpse of a Chestnut-fronted Macaw or a shy Little Cuckoo, both having been seen along this road. At the lagoons, we hope to find Pied Water-Tyrant, Capped Heron, the beautiful Yellow-hooded Blackbird and the extraordinary Black-capped Donacobius—this is great habitat for all these wonderful species.

Quebrada Felix

Quebrada Felix—this newly discovered site awaits exploration! Quebrada Felix is nestled in the base of the Filo del Tallo Hydrological Reserve, and is just a short drive from the Canopy Camp. Surrounded by tall trees and mature lowland forest, we will walk the rocky stream in search of some of Panama’s most wanted species, including Black-crowned Antpitta, Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Speckled Mourner, Ocellated Antbird, Rufous-winged and Moustached Antwrens, White-fronted Nunbird, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Royal Flycatcher and the endemic Stripe-cheeked Woodpecker. It is also a great spot to find Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Bicolored Antbird, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Double-banded Graytail and much more. Crested and Solitary Eagles have even been spotted here, a great testament to the mature forest of the area. Quebrada Felix is becoming a favorite spot among our guides and recent visitors!

Lajas Blancas

On this Panama wildlife tour, we eagerly explore the open areas and mixed forests of the area of Lajas Blancas. Lajas Blancas is the closest Embera community to the Canopy Camp, a large town with a population of over 1000 residents. Just 15 minutes away, the area around the community boasts great birding and the opportunity to find many Darien specialties! After turning off the Pan-American Highway, we drive through pasture and open farmland—a great place to see One-colored Becard, Great Potoo, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Black Antshrike and Black Oropendola. During the dry season, a bridge across the Chucunaque River provides us easy access to some mature secondary forest where Double-banded Graytail, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, White-winged and Cinnamon Becards, Cinnamon and Golden-green Woodpeckers, manakins and others can be found. Beyond the community, the road continues and there is much more forest, including primary forest at its far reaches, waiting to be explored on your Panama wildlife tour.

Nuevo Vigia

We are off to Nuevo Vigia, an Embera community nestled north of the Pan-American Highway, surrounded by great secondary growth dry forest and two small lakes, all of which attract an enticing variety of birds. The community is accessible by “piragua,” a locally-made dugout canoe. As we coast along the Chucunaque and Tuquesa Rivers, we will keep our eyes and ears open for Chestnut-backed, Crested and Black Oropendolas, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Common Black Hawk, Yellow-tailed Oriole, Red-billed Scythebill, Capped and Cocoi Herons, White Ibis, Greater Ani, Solitary Sandpiper and other water birds. We will spend the majority of the morning birding a trail toward a small lagoon, a great place to see Black-collared Hawk, Bare-crowned and White-bellied Antbirds, Green Ibis, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Spectacled Parrotlet, Black-tailed Trogon, Striped Cuckoo, Black-bellied Wren, Little Tinamou, Golden-green Woodpecker and Green-and-rufous Kingfisher! In the town of Nuevo Vigia, local artisans weave colorful decorative masks and plates out of palm fronds and carve cocobolo wood and tagua nuts into animals and plants, and we will have the opportunity to meet some of the community members and admire and purchase some of the beautiful products they make by hand. We will enjoy a satisfying picnic lunch in the village, followed by more great birding around the riversides and scrubby habitat surrounding Nuevo Vigia before heading back to the Canopy Camp.

Aligandi is a huge area with unique scrub forest and much to be explored. We head out from the Camp toward the end of the Pan-American Highway, taking a turn prior to reaching Yaviza. Along the roadsides here, we scan for Red-breasted Meadowlark, Striped Cuckoo, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Thick-billed Seed-Finch, American Kestrel and other open area birds. A Great Green Macaw nest is tucked up in the canopy of a huge Cuipo tree, visible from the road, and if lucky, an adult or a chick may be seen poking its head out of the cavity. At Finca Doncella, we continue on foot along the road through the scrub forest, seeking out Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Bat Falcon, Giant Cowbird, Orange-crowned Oriole, Red-billed Scythebill, White-eared Conebill and mixed feeding flocks. It is possible to see macaws flying over as we further explore the area on this Panama wildlife tour.

Please note that the itinerary is flexible, and may change without prior notice due to weather, alterations in habitat or other conditions.

Our Canopy Camp in Darién , Panama is a birder’s paradise. The protected Darién jungle provides a stronghold for Great Green Macaw, Great Curassow and the majestic Harpy Eagle, Panama’s national bird, as well as other endangered wildlife including Colombian Spider Monkey, Baird’s Tapir and America’s most powerful cat, the Jaguar. Some of Panama’s endemic species, such as the Pirre Warbler, Pirre Bush-Tanager and Beautiful Treerunner, are only found here in the far reaches of the Darién Province.

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Butterflies of Canopy Camp Darien

Birds of Central Panama & Darién Lowlands

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Panama Birding The Darien Harpy and Crested Eagles Tour

If you are interested in the  Panama Birding The Darien Harpy Eagles Tour,  come and join us at Kaiyote Tours!

Want to see Harpy Eagles and Crested Eagles?

…and a whole list of amazing and beautiful birds, then don’t miss our Panama trips.  Our trips to Panama are all about birds, although we also see night monkeys and a lot of interesting critters as well.  We will stay at all the best places for a great experience and fantastic birding.

After a few of days of birding Gamboa, Pipeline Road, and the Panama Canal areas, this tour takes us through the hills of Nusa Gandi east of the Canal, into the province of Darién, Central America’s last true wilderness and one of the world’s main strongholds of the Harpy Eagle. We will have the unique opportunity to visit active nests of Harpy Eagle and opportunities to see the even rarer Crested Eagle, on the same itinerary. On our way we will find many bird species found nowhere else in Central America. 

Key species:  Sapayoa, Harpy Eagle, Crested Eagle, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Stripe-cheeked Woodpecker, Dusky-backed Jacamar, Black Oropendola, Double-Banded Graytail, Yellow-Green tyrannulet, Spectacled Parrotlet, Red-throated Caracara.  

The Darien and Gamboa Printable Bird List (This is a list of the birds that we have seen on both the Darien and Gamboa tours)

On our last trip to the Darien, we saw 29 different species of raptors and 20 different species of hummingbirds.  

• Travel Dates:    
• 2025:   February 19 - 28, 2025, spots left = 4 
• Group Size:  6  travelers, plus guides
• Trip Length:  10 days
• Rates:  $3,650  per person double occupancy, ($90 0 extra for single occupancy)
• Included:  Domestic transfers, lodging, breakfast, lunch, dinner, scheduled group tours, park entrance fees and basic travel insurance.
• Not included:  International airfare, customs & immigration fees and visas, alcohol, trip cancellation insurance.
• Adventure level:   Easy for the Gamboa part, and moderate for the Darien part of the trip, please check the  “Welcome”  page for definition 

Check out our local guides by clicking here:   Nando and Ismael  (opens a new page),  scroll down to the bottom of the page

Private Trips:  We are increasingly taking people on private trips. If a group trip does not interest you, please contact us about a private tour and the dates you prefer.  

Special offer:   Included with your trip (one per room) is a copy of the field guide “The Birds of Panama” by George Angehr and Robert Dean.  You will receive this when you reserve your trip so you will have time to study and know the beautiful birds of Panama.

Extended Tours:    If you are interested in a longer trip, many of our tours can be joined back to back.  For example, you can sign up for the Darien tour and also the Chiriquí or the Gamboa tour for a 2 - 3 week trip.

**Pearl Islands:  About 30 miles off the coast from Panama City is the island archipelago called the Pearl Islands, which includes over 200 islands.  If you sign up for two tours, back to back, you will have a free day in between the tours.  We can help you schedule activities for that day.  We recommend a visit to one of the Pearl Islands.  It is a 1.5 hour boat ride and with opportunities to view sea birds such as boobies, petrels, terns, gulls, and other birds as well. The islands offer great swimming, snorkeling, and other water activities.  

Map of the travel route here:    Panama Map    (opens a new page)

Day 1:  Arrival in Panama City Most flights from the United States arrive late in the evening. We will meet you at the Tocumen International Airport (PTY) with a shuttle to the  Riande Airport Hotel , which is a 10-minute drive to the airport.

Day 2:  Travel to Tortí Early departure and birding through Nusagandi and Guna Yala provinces in search of Sapayoa, Stripe-cheeked Woodpecker, and several mid-altitude hummingbird and tanager species.  We will stop for lunch in Tortí, roughly half-way to Darién on the Pan-American Highway. We will spend most of our afternoon birding along the Tortí River, searching for Little Cuckoo, Jet Antbird, Red-billed Scythebill, Red-breasted Blackbird. Overnight in Tortí.

Day 3: The Darién Early morning departure to the San Francisco Reserve for excellent birding and then on to Metetí where we will spend 4-nights.  

Day 4: The Darién Early morning departure towards the village of Vigía, an indigenous community home to 105 Emberá families. In the forest around their village, we will search for Dusky-backed Jacamar, Golden-green Woodpecker, Agami Heron, Orange-crowned Oriole, Black Antshrike, Black Oropendola, and roosting Crested and Mottled owls. For lunch we will have the choice between a packed lunch and the local Emberá food. Drive back to Metetí in time for dinner at the hotel in Metetí.

Day 5: The Darién This day is fully dedicated to the Harpy Eagle. We will visit a remote Emberá community where there are active Harpy Eagle nests.  The location of active nests changes every year. Depending on which nest is active, sometimes the location is a long truck ride and a short walk, or sometimes reaching the nest might require a boat trip up the Chuchunaque River and 1-hour walk through mostly level forest terrain. The trip is not physically strenuous, and you don’t have to be in great shape, but you will need to be able to walk along a forest trail in hot and humid conditions.  At some nest site locations, there is an option to ride a horse (a small pony size), either one way or both ways.  The boat ride offers some excellent river and forest birding, with possible Dusky-backed Jacamar, Black Oropendola, Great Curassow and Red-throated Caracara, among many other species.  We will spend enough time at the Harpy Eagle nesting site to secure the best possible views of the adult birds as they come to the nest platform to feed and tend for their chick. Overnight in Metetí.

Day 6:  The Darién We will depart Metetí early in the morning and drive along Salto Road, a dirt road through some excellent secondary forest next to the Chucunaque river, searching for local specialties like Double-banded Graytail, White-eared Conebill, Rufous-winged Antwren, White-headed Wren, and Blue Cotinga. After lunch we will drive to Yaviza, the last stop before the end of the Pan-American Highway, searching for Black Oropendola, Orange-crowned Oriole, Bicolored Hawk, Bicolored Wren and Spectacled Parrotlet, among other species. Overnight in Metetí.

Day 7:  Tortí We will depart Metetí early and drive to the end of the Panama American Highway which ends at the Darien Gap and the town of Yaviza.  There will be a few stops at excellent birding locations on our way back to Tortí where we will spend two nights. 

Day 8: Tortí On our second visit at the San Francisco reserve, we will have time to spend the entire day there.  A few of the special birds we have seen are:   Yellow-Green Tyrannulet, White Fronted Nunbird, Blue Cotinga, Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle, Black Hawk-Eagle, King Vulture, Barred Puffbird, Rufous-crested Coquette, and Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo. San Francisco is one of the few places in Central America where the critically endangered Brown-headed Spider Monkey can still be seen. 

Day 9: Travel to Panama City We start our drive back to Panama City with a few birding stops along the way.  Lodging will be at the  Riande Airport Hotel , which is a 10-minute drive to the airport. This airport hotel is a birding hot sport with 221 species:   Tocumen--hotel Riande Aeropuerto

Day 10:  Fly Home  Shuttle to the airport for your trip home.  Most flights back to the States leave early in the morning. 

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Birding Panama

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Birding Panama is a company run by birders; specialists in birding and natural history. We organize all inclusive programs and day tours. We arrange private birding trips and bird photography tours to the best sites of Panama.

Birding Tours - Small Groups: Birding tours of Panama guided by experienced guides. Birding Panama offers itineraries to the Chiriqui Highlands, Central Panama, and Darien. Our birding lodges are carefully selected; they are located in the rainforest or just next to it.

Quality Birding Experiences: We offer special attention for each individual and our guides spend most of the time finding birds in Panama; however the pace is modified according to special needs.

Group & Family Discounts: Ask for our group rates and custom itineraries to different regions of Panama.

Independent Birder: Birding with a local guide increases the probabilities of finding Panama Rare Birds and local species. You are welcome to review our scheduled dates or ask for a private tour.

About Bird Watching in Panama There are sixteen species of birds in Panama, classified as Globally Threatened; some of the most splendid are Bare-necked Umbrellabird, Resplendent Quetzal, Three-wattled Bellbird and Yellow-billed Cotinga.

Panama is an excellent place for a birding vacation or birding adventure, Panama has just over 1,000 species recorded, 11 of them are National endemics, and around 107 species are Regional endemics.

Birding Tours

• Spectacular Birds
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• Birding by Ear
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• Private air-conditioned vehicles
• Trips: one day or longer
• Slow pace to find elusive species
• Spotting Scope - Bird Songs
• A Variety of Habitats

Plan Your Birding Tour: Where The Birds Are

Wish lists are welcome!

Our Mission: Connect conservation, local people, and sustainable travel with worldwide birders; work together with a Panamanian network of guides, transportation companies, lodges, restaurants and local communities.

Testimonials

"Mae I will never forget how excited we both were when you called in the Streak-chested Antpitta. That was a very special moment for me to see that beautiful bird so close. That memory will stay with me for a long, long time."

Debbie Hilaire Westwinds, Ontario, Canada

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Pipeline road tours, panama’s endemic birds.

Panama City, Rep. of Panama • Tel (507) 6545 5023 (Dial 011 first if calling from US or Canada)

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Western Panama: Tranquilo Bay

Full - take a look at our april departure.

February 1 - 8, 2024, w/Canopy Lodge extension

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Looking for a true birding vacation? Imagine yourself immersed in nature on an island, where your home is a cluster of six luxury cottages in a forest clearing, including a 100’ tower that gives you stunning views of the sea. Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge is perched on a small hill overlooking the Caribbean Sea, a path through the forest leads down to the dock and turquoise colored bay. The lodge’s central location within the archipelago of Bocas del Toro permits us to explore some of the most biologically diverse areas within Panama and Central America. The lodge is surrounded by a 200-acre private conservation reserve adjacent to Bastimentos National Marine Park, encompassing the convergence of three distinct ecosystems. Tranquilo Bay is a birding paradise. As the orientation of Panama’s Isthmus connecting two continents is oriented east and west, this trip lets you focus on the northwest corner of this diverse nation—a place where lush mountains meet the sea. Tranquilo Bay’s canopy observation tower soars 100’ above sea level; bringing you to the top of the forest canopy for a panoramic bird’s-eye view of three distinctly different ecosystems within Bastimentos Island National Marine Park. On-site there are over 250 species of birds. The greater Western Caribbean Slope bird list covering areas we visit on field trips includes over 500 species. Some of the specialty birds include: both Lovely Cotinga and Snowy Cotingas, Three-wattled Bellbird, Green Ibis, and the Nicaraguan Seed-finch. Bird Island visited by boat lets you get up close and personal with stunning Red-billed Tropicbird, Brown Booby and more. On-site specials include: raptor migrations, a Golden-collared Manakin lek, southernmost distribution of the Stub-tailed Spadebill, and intimate sightings of bathing hummingbirds. The bird watching, wildlife, and photo opportunities from this incredible vantage point are truly sublime. During the day, as thermals start rising off of the Caribbean Sea, raptors will soar for hours. The tower is an excellent place to scan for Black Hawk-Eagle; Mangrove Black-Hawk; Bat, Laughing, and Peregrine falcons; Double-toothed Kite; and White Hawk. The beautiful and regionally endemic Snowy Cotinga can be seen from the tower along with large groups of Montezuma Oropendolas, hordes of parrots, Olive-throated Parakeets, White-crowned and Scaled pigeons, Blue Dacnis, three species of honeycreepers, Tropical Gnatcatchers, Three-wattled Bellbird, Osprey, several species of hummingbirds, Lineated and Black-cheeked woodpeckers, Magnificent Frigate Birds, Brown Pelicans, multiple swifts and swallows, Common and Lesser Nighthawks, tanagers, euphonias, and many flycatchers. All of nature here is replete with variation. Many species of mammals such as Crab-eating Raccoon, Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth, Central American Wooly Opossum and Panamanian Night Monkey to name a few. Reptiles found at the lodge and on field trips include several species of colorful poison dart frogs. And we find beauty and fascination in tropical plants and a wide array of butterflies, moths and other large insects. Unpack once, enjoy time with fun travel companions as you learn from experts, and know you will be well-taken care of. It’s hard to beat the fine hospitality and truly great dining that await us at Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge. Add a suite of mountain birds with the can't-miss post-tour extension to their sister facility, storied Canopy Tower!

• "A fabulous trip with a focus on birding in two ecologically different areas of Western Panama. The coastal areas at and nearby to Tranquillo Bay were lush with vegetation, providing exposure to a wide array of flora and fauna. The variety of birds was amazing, and local guide (Tranquillo Bay), Roger, was excellent in locating many species. Food at both facilities exceeded our expectations with many new and local dishes. The cloud forest surrounding Mt. Totumas was fabulous and provided a wide array of vegetation as well as additional species of birds. Located Resplendent Quetzal on two consecutive days." — Dan & Chris Brennan, Jan. 2023
• “This trip was great! I loved staying in one comfortable lodge the whole time. The trip guide, the local guide and the folks at the lodge were wonderful. And I finally saw Snowy Cotinga for the first time!” — 2023 Traveler

Tour Highlights

• Unpack and relax—this is a true birding vacation
• Enjoy island cuisine carefully prepared fresh for you each day
• From the lodge observation tower, gaze out to a maze of islands and a kaleidoscope of species
• To your birding time add the chance to swim, paddleboard, snorkel or take photographs to your heart’s content
• Wander the Fortuna Road sampling species at varied elevations in some of Central America’s finest remaining forest
• Discover a seabird island rookery action packed with life in the spring breeding season
• Watch the migration of twenty or more species of warbler staging—ready to head to the USA and Canada in weeks ahead
• Watch the sky for a river of Swainson’s or Broad-winged Hawks on the wing of northward migration
• Explore the mangroves—bustling with life and colorful wading birds
• Watch for seabirds, dolphins and sea turtles over the coral reefs of the Caribbean Sea
• Add the Canopy Tower post-tour extension for hard-to-find neotropical species in our immersive rainforest mountain lodge, where one can bird from bed or take morning coffee at canopy height on the scenic rooftop! deck!

Trip Itinerary

Itineraries are guidelines; variations in itinerary may occur to account for weather, road conditions, closures, etc. and to maximize your experience.

Thurs., Feb. 1: Arrivals | Boat to Tranquilo Bay | Birding on-site | Welcome Dinner

Welcome to Paradise. To reach it, you need to board an AirPanama flight from Panama City’s Albrook Airport and head across this isthmus nation to the Caribbean side, landing in Western Panama at Bocas del Toro, a small town with airstrip on the main island of an archipelago of jewel-like islands prized by fisherman, fans of snorkeling and birders. It’s a short flight (about 45 minutes) and friendly staff from the lodge will be there to greet you. Then it's five minutes to the dock, about 45 minutes by boat out to the island and you are there—tranquility! If you take the morning flight, you have much of the day to enjoy the lodge trails. Once rooms are ready, you can check into your delightful accommodations. There are just six deluxe air conditioned cabanas at Tranquilo Bay. Each cabana features a spacious tiled interior with French doors opening to a large, covered elevated porch area. They each have a large bathroom with a walk-in shower, a water heater and an air conditioner. Two have king size beds, three have queen size orthopedic beds and four have two double orthopedic beds. Each cabana is tastefully and comfortably appointed with locally handcrafted furniture. Once settled, there is ample birding on the grounds of the lodge. For those arriving in time, we head out to the observation tower for the first night of a great ritual, watching sunset from the canopy level. From the tower’s vantage, as the sun sets on Tranquilo Bay, surreal hues of indigo, lavender, and orange paint the western sky over the surrounding forest and stunning Talamanca Range. Those on the afternoon flight will still get to the lodge in daylight and perhaps to join us on the tower. We then gather as a group to enjoy introductions, hear the plan for the week, and enjoy a cold drink of your choice and a good dinner—the first of many! Then tuck into your private casita to listen to tropical night sounds as you drift off to sleep. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (D)

Fri., Feb. 2: Isla Popa | Tranquilo Bay

Each of the islands in the Bocas del Toro archipelago has interesting wildlife and high levels of endemism, however, Isla Popa the second largest island in the chain, has more species of birds and mammals due to its close proximity to the mainland. A leisurely boat ride of about two kilometers brings us to a dense gallery forest surrounded by the rich mangrove lagoons of nearby Isla Popa. This is an easy but bird-rich first field day. We watch birds in this phenomenal area mainly by boat; peacefully enjoying flights of Keel-billed and Black-mandibled toucans, Crimson-fronted Parakeets, Brown-hooded Parrots, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Golden-hooded Tanager, Plumbeous and Swallow-tailed kites, Pale-billed, and Lineated woodpeckers, Mangrove Cuckoo, American Pygmy Kingfisher, and hopefully we will see male Snowy Cotingas perched conspicuously out in the open, showing off their shining plumage in the sun. This mangrove lagoon has some beautiful Turtle Sea Grass where we can have good looks at sponges, starfish, urchins and Upside-down Jellyfish. We return to the lodge for lunch and some down time for rest and relaxation, a swim or time to pursue photography or more birding. WIFI and laundry are available throughout the week. In the afternoon as it cools down and activity increases, we explore one of many forest trails at the lodge. One follows a winding spring creek which creates a favorite locale for resident hummingbirds to bathe. The lodge guides have set up benches to use as viewing stations for us to comfortably observe and photograph this daily high-octane spectacle. Band-tailed Barbthroat, Purple-crowned Fairy, Crowned Woodnymph, and other hummingbirds fight ruthlessly for the best bathing positions. Once they get their turn at the fresh water, each species has its own dance like preparations before taking its first splash. Red-capped Manakin, Prothonotary Warbler, and Chestnut-backed Antbird might be found along the creek’s shallow edges hoping for a bath as well. There are various levels of activity throughout the day; however, the most consistent action can be observed in the late-afternoon time just ahead of evening. At day’s end, we tally up our daily bird and mammal sightings for all that wish to do so, meeting up in the bar either before or after a delicious dinner, depending on the day’s activities and where it best fits in. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Sat., Feb. 3 : Fortuna Forest Reserve | Talamanca Mountains Continental Divide

An adventure today! Expect an early start as we head inland to go up to the Talamanca Mountain Range and its Continental Divide (600-1300 meters) The Continental Divide of the Talamanca Range, between the provinces of Bocas del Toro and Chiriqui, is one of Panama’s premier birding and wilderness areas. It holds some of the best remaining contiguous forest cover in Central America. Today we will focus on the area known as Umbrellabird Road, between the Continental Divide and north of Fortuna Reservoir. True to its name, this is the best area to find the fabulous Bare-necked Umbrellabird, especially between the months of March to September, which is considered to be the breeding season. Fortuna Forest Reserve, established in 1976, is a species-rich area and part of BirdLife International Endemic Bird Area Costa Rica and Panama Highlands. The distinct avifauna in this globally important area include many regional endemics and restricted range species. Our visit here is sure to produce some outstanding birds with opportunities to see: Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush, Red-faced Spinetail, Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager, Golden-browed Chlorophonia, Black and Crested guans, Blue-and-Gold Tanager, Black-thighed and Black-faced grosbeaks, and Golden-winged Warbler to mention a few. After some grand birding, we enjoy a picnic lunch while overlooking the beautiful vistas of Lake Fortuna. Typical species as we then continue birding might include: Azure-hooded Jay; Sulphur-winged and Barred parakeets; tanagers galore: Bay-headed, Rufous-winged, Flame-colored, White-winged, Carmiol’s, Cherrie’s, Hepatic, and Spangled-cheeked; Slate-throated Redstart; Tropical Parula; Blue-and-White Swallow; Rufous-winged; Golden-olive and Smoky-brown woodpeckers; Elegant and Tawny-capped euphonias; Slaty Flowerpiercer; Golden-bellied Flycatcher; and the gorgeous Orange-bellied Trogon. Wow! Several resident tropical raptors are possible to see at this elevation including Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Barred Hawk and Great Black-Hawk. And right now in April, migrants are pouring through - Swallow-tailed Kite may form abundant kettles joined by Plumbeous Kite, and at times thousands of Swainson’s or Broad-winged Hawks. More wonderful bird possibilities in this forest worth mentioning include Blue-throated Toucanet; Red-headed and Prong-billed barbets; White-crowned and White-ruffed manakins; Broad-billed Motmot; Green-thorntail, Snowy-bellied, Stripe-tailed, and Rufous-crested coquette; and Black-bellied Hummingbirds. We also look for mammals, especially here the elusive Tayra, a weasel like Neotropical mammal with wrinkled facial skin. After a full day we descend back to the dock to head for home sweet home. A relaxing boat ride back to the lodge across the sea might produce Brown Boobies, Black and Royal terns, Willet, Mangrove Swallow, and perhaps Bottlenose Dolphins. After a full and rewarding day, we arrive back at the lodge in the early evening where we can discuss our lists and share the day’s best photos over appetizers and drinks on the veranda followed by a tasty dinner. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Sun., Feb. 4: Finca de Cacao—The Chocolate Farm | Tranquilo Bay

After birding from the lodge’s terrace with Panamanian coffee and a casual breakfast (a little later than usual after our full day yesterday), we enjoy a calm 20-minute boat ride through Dolphin Bay to Buena Esperanza. The collection of tropical flora found at this location represents the best plants and therefore, butterflies in the archipelago. A superb water garden and natural creek running through the property also attract many species of mammals, reptiles and multicolored amphibians. The psychedelic green and black poison dart frogs, Dendrobates auratus, can be prolific with sufficient moisture. The landowners, who live onsite, protect this beautiful piece of mainland forest, by using the property to operate an artisanal chocolate farm. Cacao trees, grown to produce organic chocolate, thrive under the shade of the forest canopy. Under this stunning canopy we will be searching for three species of trogon: Slaty-tailed, White-tailed, and Gartered; Purple-throated Fruitcrow; Black-chested Jay; Pale-billed Woodpecker; Pied Puffbird; Black-capped Pygmy Tyrant; both Montezuma and Chestnut-headed oropendolas; Keel-billed and Black-mandibled Toucans; Cocoa Woodcreeper; and many more species. Mammal sightings might include Mantled Howler Monkey, Kinkajou, Three and Two-toed sloths, squirrels, and Greater White-lined Bats. After returning to Tranquilo Bay for lunch and a hammock siesta, birding excursions to the canopy observation tower, forest trail system, and hummingbird bathing station will be available options. For anyone wanting water activities, guided sea kayaking or snorkeling amidst the alluring coral reefs can also easily fill your afternoon. Or enjoy a swim or soothing paddleboard excursion (okay a nap may be in order too!) Watching the sunset is on the menu as well. Dinner entrees vary nightly—one night we may serve seafood and the next night it may be South American beef, vegetarian options always available. Tonight, in honor of the day’s activities, we end with a little something chocolate to close the day. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 5: San San Pond Sak Wetlands (Soropta Canal)

Today will be a tranquil day of “birding by boat” within several lush, coastal, wetland habitats. San San Pond Sak Wetlands is a designated Ramsar site, as well as, part of the La Amistad UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The area is rich with varied habitats including Atlantic wet lowland forest, Raphia palm swamp, fresh-water river course, ocean impact beachfront, and mangroves. Access to this verdant wildlife area will be via boat through the historic Snyder Canal, as birds conveniently fly through the gallery forest back and forth across the waterway. After the Snyder Brothers finished construction in the late 1890s, the canal was used to transport bananas from the Changuinola River Valley, to the protected waters of Almirante Bay at Boca del Drago, where they were loaded onto transport ships. Panama’s first canal was vital to establishing The United Fruit Company, and the very beginnings of what would become, “The Banana Republic”. This is an excellent place to find many lowland bird species, northern and altitudinal migrants, raptors and shorebirds. All six species of kingfishers known to the Americas can be found here and we will be watching closely for regional endemics like the diminutively distributed Nicaraguan Seed Finch, White-collared Manakin (Almirante race), Olive-backed Euphonia, Black-cowled Oriole, Canebrake Wren, and Three-wattled Bellbird. Also possible are, Masked Duck, Common Gallinule, Least Bittern, Pied-billed Grebe, Great Potoo, Northern Jacana, and Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. Raptor sightings might include Yellow-headed Caracara; Bat, Laughing and Peregrine falcons; Osprey; and Pearl Kite. From the high branches of fruiting trees down to the grassy and shrubby edge, we might find Passerini’s and Golden-hooded tanagers, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, Red-breasted Blackbird, Buff-throated Saltator, Groove-billed Ani, Squirrel Cuckoo, chatters of Olive-throated Parakeets, Streaked and Scissor-tailed flycatchers, and the minute Common, Black-headed and Slate-headed Tody-flycatchers. With any luck, mammal sightings might produce Mantled Howler Monkey, Crab-eating Racoon, White-nosed Coati, Neotropical River Otter, West Indian Manatee and Bottlenose Dolphin. Soropta Beach, important for migrating and resident shorebirds, is also a nesting ground for Leatherback and Hawksbill sea turtles, in addition to Green Iguanas, Basilisk Lizards, Common Boa Constrictor, Spectacled Caiman and American Crocodile. Here on the beach, we enjoy a picnic lunch with fresh sea breeze and the shorebirds. This is a rough life, but someone has to do it! This vibrant river mouth and beachfront might produce views Parasitic and Pomarine jaegers; Wilson’s, Collared, and Semipalmated plovers; Ruddy Turnstones; Sanderlings; Least, Pectoral and Semipalmated sandpipers; Common and Lesser nighthawks; Lesser and Greater yellowlegs; four species of tern; and Roseate Spoonbill. In the afternoon, sea conditions permitting, we pass just two miles offshore to a breathtaking rookery and reserve known as Swan’s Caye, for beautiful close-up looks at Panama’s only known breeding colony of Red-billed Tropicbirds, as well as, Brown Boobies and Magnificent Frigatebirds. We return to the lodge in the late afternoon. Dinners vary based upon the local ingredients available; however, by now it’s no surprise that you should expect three or four delicious courses each night. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Tues., Feb. 6: Tranquilo Bay | Forest Trails | Pineapple Hill

Today, after enjoying some early morning birds from the canopy observation tower or the lodge’s veranda, we will delight in a breakfast including highland coffee and fresh tropical fruit juices. Following breakfast, we enter a forest trail in search of Chestnut-backed Antbird, White-flanked and Dot-winged Antwrens, Black-crowned Antshrike, Red-throated Ant-Tanager, Tawny-crested Tanager, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, and the geographically misplaced Stub-tailed Spadebill. After a short hike we will arrive at Pineapple Hill, a small elevated clearing at the forest’s edge, which is an important forage area for a multitude of Neotropical and migratory species. This is an excellent place to get good looks at feeding birds like Golden-collared and Red-Capped manakins; three species of honeycreepers; Passerini’s, Scarlet, White-lined, and Summer tanagers; Baltimore Oriole; Band-tailed Barbthroat; Green-breasted Mango; White-necked Jacobin and Purple-crowned Fairy hummingbirds; Scaled Pigeon; Double-toothed Kite; Roadside Hawk; and the often hard to see but noisy White-throated Crake. Once we are ready to move on, another forest trail will take us to a Golden-collared Manakin lek. During the mating season, from about December-August, active courts in each lek should have displaying males. Further along this trail, walking brings us to an area of high forest canopy, where Three-wattled Bellbirds like to spend midday. When the sun is a little strong, this canopy specialist likes to perch underneath the leaves in the cooler shade, presenting a nice opportunity with less backlighting for the photo enthusiast. On the way back to the lodge, to enjoy a homemade lunch in comfort, we will search the forest floor for the famous Isla Bastimentos Red Poison dart Frog. This morph of Oophaga pumilio, is studied onsite by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute who are researching its evolutionary traits. After a short siesta, we can focus our efforts in the mangrove forest looking for several species of herons, Green Ibis, Mangrove Black Hawk, all six kingfishers known to the Americas, Mangrove Cuckoo, Wimbrel, Willet, Prothonotary Warbler, and the resident Yellow Warbler or “Mangrove Warbler” whose males exhibit a stunning red hood. In the evening we will climb the canopy tower to watch from a bird’s-eye view, the pandemonium of Red-lored and Mealy parrots paired up and returning home, as groups of chattering Blue-headed Parrots join in the chorus. Some previous guests have dubbed these daily flights “The Invasion of Tranquilo Bay.” We will also have a good chance of up-close looks at White-crowned and Scaled pigeons; Black-crowned and Masked tityras; Lineated and Black-cheeked woodpeckers; Blue-grey, Palm, and Plain-colored tanagers; White-vented Euphonia; and scores of flycatchers. Once we watch the beautiful tropical sun set over the Talamanca Range, we can walk back to the lodge for hard earned drinks, appetizers, and a delicious meal. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Wed., Feb. 7: Palo Seco Protection Forest

Today we do a lower section of the scenic Talamanca range, this time exploring lowlands to foothills elevations (Sea level to 600 meters). Fueled up with a delicious Panamanian breakfast, we will leave the dock at 6:00AM and travel by boat to the town of Punta Robalo on the mainland. Today we will be birding in the Palo Seco Protection Forest, 167,000 hectares, which is one of the most vital areas of La Amistad Biosphere Reserve. This incredible area consisting of wet Atlantic forest, foothills, and watersheds, is part of BirdLife International Endemic Bird Area Central American Caribbean Slope. It is a hotbed for restricted range species and altitudinal migrants, like the Three-wattled Bellbird, and is one of the most important protected areas in the Neotropics. Snowy Cotinga; Chestnut-colored and Cinnamon woodpecker; Rufous-tailed Jacamar; Crimson-colored, Speckled, Emerald, and Silver-throated tanagers; Lattice-tailed Trogon; Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer; Green Hermit; Slaty Spinetail; Dull-mantled Antbird; and Band-backed and Black-throated wrens are all possibilities on the outing. Mammal sightings in the area might include sloths, Mantled Howler Monkeys, Red-brocket Deer, squirrels, and several species of bats. We also make every effort to see the elusive Lanceolated Monklet. A fresh picnic lunch will be served in the field. Other lowland specialties on our long list of species possible might include: Brown Jay, White-crowned Parrot, White-collared Seedeater, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, Cinnamon and White-winged Becards, Long-billed Gnatwren, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Black-and-Yellow Tanager, Buff-rumped Warbler, Torrent Tyranulet, Crimson-fronted Parakeets, and Red-fronted Parrotlet. In the late afternoon we will work our way back through the lowland foothills scanning for kettles of raptors, Snowy and Blue Cotingas, and finally ending with views of some marsh birds such as various sandpipers, three species of ibis, Southern Lapwing, Blue-winged Teal, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, and the always stunning Common Gallinule. We return to the lodge in the evening. While dinners at Tranquilo Bay are delicious and varied, this is our last evening and so we celebrate a bit, recounting highlights of the journey. The chef uses local fruits, vegetables, and chocolate to craft this meal—delicious! Afterwards, we do our final species tally. Accommodations at Tranquilo Bay (B,L,D)

Thurs., Feb. 8: Departures from Tranquilo Bay

No one wants to go, but its time! Again, there are at least two flights a day, so depending on your International air plans, you can book accordingly. As some flights leave Panama in the evening, with luck you can enjoy more time here ahead of leaving. Those wanting an early morning International flight will need to overnight in Panama City. The domestic flight comes in to Albrook Airport, depending on traffic we suggest you allow 45 minutes to an hour to make the 23 km trip by taxi. (B)

Canopy Lodge Post-Tour Extension

Canopy tower, a guest-favorite ecolodge experience.

The four nights here at Canopy Tower may rival your time at Tranquilo Bay for memorable birding and wildlife experiences. Our lodge's extensive trail system through mountain rainforest surrounds and the bird-from-your-window nature of our accommodations make this a gues-favorite stay. Field trips to a rare frog conservation facility and foothills birding at La Mesa & Las Minas Road are the cherry on top!

Thurs., Feb. 8 : Panama City

We fly back from Tranquilo Bay mid-day and check into our lodgings at the Radisson Panama Canal Hotel. This afternoon is free—you can walk over to the Smithsonian’s Biodiversity Museum, you can taxi into Casco Viejo, the trendy restored colonial district of Panama City with shops, cafes, the Cathedral and museums, or you can simply relax by the pool or rest up for the next part of your adventure. At 4:00 PM we meet those that want to do some birding for a spin around the grounds. At 6:00 PM we go to one of our favorite restaurants at the end of the Amador Causeway. A great place to watch sunset! Accommodations at the Radisson Panama Canal Hotel (D)

Fri., Feb. 9: Canopy Lodge

Breakfast is at the hotel, and mid-morning we’re picked up and headed to the Canopy Lodge; we find ourselves immersed in the beauty of mountain terrain where nature is active all around us. We quickly find a host of hummingbirds, tanagers, and oropendolas at feeders adjacent to the open-air dining area. We have close up views of tanagers: Flame-rumped, Crimson-backed, White-lined, and Blue-gray, as well as electric Red-legged Honeycreeper. Clay-colored Thrush, Streaked Saltator, and Yellow-faced Grassquit provide us with activity throughout our stay. Sometimes more secretive species such as Rufous Motmot or Orange-billed Sparrow emerge from the vegetation near the lodge! We have lunch, and meet our local guides who are eager to share bird specialties on the forest trails leading from the Lodge. Occasionally, two often-difficult to see Neotropical species can be found here: Tody Motmot and Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo. Basilisk Lizard sun themselves on rocks along the stream, while Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, Chestnut-backed Antbird, and the less common Dull-mantled Antbird are often present along the trail, and occasionally, we see the bizarre, White-tipped Sicklebill. This area is good for seeing Neotropical wintering migrants, such as Prothonotary and Canada Warblers. We hope in time to get views of the elusive Sunbittern that feeds along the stream that flows by the Lodge, too. We relax and settle in. The food here is wonderful, as is the atmosphere for tonight’s meal. Enjoy! Accommodations at the Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)

Sat., Feb. 10: Cara Iguana | Rare Frog Conservation Facility | Canopy Lodge

There are so many wonderful places to bird right near the Canopy Lodge. Today we choose according to what species the guides are finding, and where. The secretive Tody Motmot is one option, often found on a road we like to walk along above a lovely residential district near town. We do want to visit a facility for endangered frog research and propagation, housed at El Nispero, a small zoo in El Valle with a wide selection of native animals and birds, mostly in good-sized cages. Some of you may already be familiar with the frog facility as it has been featured in a documentary on Public Television. In addition to learning about the many forms of frogs and the challenges they face, we spend some time birding here, too. The grounds are landscaped with artificial streams and the backdrop is the most dramatic of El Valle's hills. It's a pleasant place to spend an hour wandering around. The secretive Rosy Thrush-Tanager is one bird we look for here, a lovely songster with black and raspberry-colored plumage! We also take time to visit the charming local farmers’ market in El Valle where colorful vegetables and artisan crafts are found. This is a great chance to purchase any local souvenirs or gifts to take home. Accommodations at Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun., Feb. 11: Exploring the Mountains at La Mesa & Las Minas Road

This morning we venture to higher elevation to watch birds near what might be the world’s most beautiful chicken farm. Walking into the forest, we have a chance to see some of the more secretive species, including mixed flocks of antwrens, Black-crowned Antpitta, and another chance for White-tipped Sicklebill. Our plan is to walk atop La Mesa on Las Minas Road where we search for foothill species and hope to see one of our favorites: the comical Northern Emerald-Toucanet. In lush clusters of bromeliads that festoon the trees, we encounter Ochraceous Wren and Gray-breasted Wood-Wren; on tree trunks we search for both Plain-brown and Spotted Woodcreepers, and we listen for Red-faced Spinetail, which may sing out from roadside trees. Both White-throated and Pale-vented Thrushes can be found along our route, as well as mixed groups of beautiful tanagers like Silver-throated. Masked Tityra often call from treetops at the road’s edge and Black-headed Saltator, Tawny-capped and White-vented Euphonias, and Spot-crowned Barbet have been seen at local feeders! Those who prefer hiking to birding can simply walk farther along this scenic mountain road, returning to join us at a specified time. We return to the lodge for lunch and a break. Relax on your porch, browse books in the open-air library, or wander the grounds where Stripe-throated Hermit, and Violet-headed and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds visit purple verbena flowers. You may even glimpse the rare Rufous-crested Coquette! We may hear the beautiful cascading notes of an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush or watch a mixed flock come through, perhaps with a beautiful Bay-headed Tanager. Along a stream that runs through the property we watch for Green Kingfisher, possible Sunbittern, Buff-rumped Warbler, and a host of colorful butterflies, including the brilliant Blue Morpho. A Three-toed Sloth may be seen draped lazily across an open branch or peeking out from behind the large leaves of a Cecropia tree. On our last afternoon, we take a leisurely walk up the road or on trails right from the lodge. Our local guides know where to find the best and most current sightings. Trees surrounding the lodge serve as perches for a good diversity of flycatchers, including Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Lesser and Yellow-bellied Elaenias, and Boat-billed, Social, and Piratic Flycatchers. During the dry season, raucous Chestnut-headed Oropendola nest in a colony in the tall Eucalyptus trees in the yard, while Giant Cowbird sometime show up looking for an unguarded nest in which to deposit an egg. Birding along the road near the lodge, we have a good chance of hearing and seeing many species typical of the dry Pacific slope: Blue-crowned Motmot, Lance-tailed Manakin (difficult to see), Rosy Thrush-Tanager, and Red-throated Ant-Tanager. Humid foothill species are also present, including Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, and Dusky-faced and Tawny-crested Tanagers. Watch for larger species like the noisy Gray-headed Chachalaca, Keel-billed Toucan, Collared Aracari, and Black-chested Jay. It is also worthwhile to keep an eye on the sky, in case a White Hawk or Black Hawk-Eagle passes overhead. This evening we have a wrap-up over happy hour to list our trip extension highlights, tally the species we’ve seen, and enjoy a celebratory dinner at the lodge. Accommodations at Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 12: Departures from Panama City

We enjoy one last morning with nature as our alarm clock before heading off to the airport. Important! We have a three-hour return trip to the airport, so we ask that you book flights out after NOON. Those electing to leave earlier need to pay for a special transfer, with your start time set so that you have at least two hours at the airport. (B)

Cost of the Journey

Cost of the main tour is $3390 DBL / $4290 SGL, from Panama City, based on double occupancy and includes 7 nights’ accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, in-country domestic flight from Panama City, group airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. Cost of the journey does not include airfare from your home to Panama City, or items of a personal nature, such as drinks from the bar, telephone, and local guide gratuities. The cost of this 4-night journey is $1795 DBL / $2095 SGL, from Panama City. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes 4 nights’ accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, group departure airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. Singles are limited, so please inquire promptly if interested. The cost does not include transportation to or from your home to Panama, or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone charges, porterage, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar.

Please plan to make air travel plans only after the minimum group size has been met. We will send you a confirmation email as soon as the trip has been confirmed.

Arrival and Departure Airport: Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in Panama City

Arrival Details: Please plan to arrive January 31, 2024 at your leisure. We have an early morning flight to Bocas del Toro (included) on February 1, so it’s important to arrive the day before. 

Main Tour Departure Details: Please plan flights to depart February 8, after 4:00 PM. We have a domestic flight back to Panama City on our last day so it’s important to book international flights home after 4:00 PM. 

Post-tour Extension Departure Details : Please plan flights to depart February 12, 2024 after 12:00 PM. We have a 2.5 to 3 hour drive to return to the airport on the last morning. 

Travel Tips: Our domestic flight to Bocas del Toro leaves from Albrook Gelabert Airport so we recommend staying at the nearby Radisson Hotel Panama Canal , (507) 211-4500. It is easy to book online. Our guide stays at this hotel and will be happy to join guests arriving in time for some birding on the grounds. Dinner is on your own at a local restaurant (cost not included), though your guide may also join you. We arrange a group shuttle to the airport for anyone staying at the Radisson. Regardless of where you stay, everyone needs to be at the domestic airport, Albrook Gelabert Airport, no later than 8:00 AM. 

You may prefer to stay in historic and trendy Casco Viejo with its great shops, museums, and views. If so, plan on a 25 minute taxi ride to Albrook Gelabert Airport. There are many hotel options in Casco Viejo, but past clients have enjoyed Las Clementinas Boutique Hotel . If you arrive to Panama late and prefer to stay at a hotel by the international airport, you can take a taxi to the domestic airport in the morning, but allow 40 minutes of travel time. 

Entry Requirements : US residents do not need a visa for a tourist visit of this length, but your passport should be valid for three months beyond your planned arrival date.

Items of Note

Pace of the Journey This is a true birding vacation, with one hotel to base from with trips venturing off the island for habitat variety. Just out your door you can swim, snorkel, paddleboard, watch hummingbird feeders or walk the lodge trails. The lodge has a 100’ tower with a fabulous view of the islands. There are 200+ species possible on the island and 450+ with field trips. Pace yourself to join as many of the outings as you like. Weather The climate in Western Panama varies tremendously depending upon altitude and geography. Temperatures at Tranquilo Bay in lowland rainforest average 86 degrees with a consistent humidity around 82%. The cloud forest in the highlands can be much cooler.

Browse below for trip reports and species lists from past versions of this and other tours from this destination.

• Species List
• Trip Report

Birds & Mammals

Green season, intro to biodiversity, tranquilo bay.

Greg recently retired as the Migratory Species Coordinator for U.S. Forest Service International Programs, working throughout the Western Hemisphere, and as Vice President for Audubon Society of Northern Virginia, serving on the Conservation and Citizen Science committees. He is currently a Board Member for BirdsCaribbean. For his Ph.D. in Zoology at University of Washington, he studied the coloration and behavior of Bullock’s Orioles. Greg studied ecology in Costa Rica with the Organization for Tropical Studies and has worked internationally for the past 20 years. Greg previously worked for the National Audubon Society, American Birding Association, Birder’s World magazine (sadly, now defunct), Partners in Flight, and Cornell Lab of Ornithology. He is a Fellow of the American Ornithological Society (AOS). He has been a birder since he was 11 and has birded in all 50 states and 47 countries.

Other trips with Greg Butcher

Essential Information +

This information is important for being prepared for your journey; we want you to have the best experience possible. If you only read one section, this one is key!

Ahead of Your Tour

• Make sure your passport will be valid at least three months after the date of your scheduled return to the U.S. No Visas are required for U.S. citizens for the length of this stay in Panama. If you are from another country, please contact the Embassy of Panama’s website for guidelines.
• Please check current  CDC recommendations for travel to Panama and consult with your doctor about general travel vaccinations you should have as precaution for travel . See the “General Health and Inoculations” section below.
• Travel insurance in case of serious medical emergency is strongly recommended. Full health coverage and repatriation is available through  Allianz Travel Insurance .
• Plan your international flight reservations to arrive at and depart from Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in Panama City on the day before the start of your tour. Send a copy of your itinerary to the Naturalist Journeys office please.
• Soft sided luggage/duffel bags are easiest for packing the vans. Pack essential medications in your carry-on luggage, as well as one day of clothing and optics in case of luggage delay.

Arrival into Panama City, Panama (PTY)

Upon arrival at the airport, you will pass through immigration and customs and exit to the main terminal area. Your emergency contact sheet will be helpful at Immigration when they ask where you are going.

We will coordinate your pick-ups close to your departure with operators and guides once we have all travelers completed travel information. Please make sure we have both your ARRIVAL and DEPARTURE information, so they can plan this.   It is imperative that we have your correct TRAVEL information; we appreciate if you email us a copy of your flight reservation. They will check internet for your updated flight information.

Please make yourself at home at your first night hotel– the front desk staff will assist you. We recommend the Raddison Canal hotel; please note that this stay is not included in your tour.

First Day of tour - Flight from Albrook to Bocas Del Toro AM

Clients need to be at the Albrook airport by 8:00 AM.

Raddison Canal is approximately 4 miles from Albrook. If NJ guide is included, they can assist in organizing a morning transfer to Albrook. otherwise, the front desk at Raddison Canal can assist.

If you are not staying at Radisson Canal, you need to take a taxi to the Albrook Airport arriving approximately by 8:00 AM.

Please check the Travel Details of the tour for additional and updated information.

Main Tour Departures from Panama City, Panama (PTY)

Plan your international flight home on the evening of the last day of the tour if you do not take the extension.

Extension Departures

Please plan flights after 12 pm as we have a 2.5-3-hour drive to return to the airport so even with an early start this is the earliest flight time you can make.

Passports, Visas & Documents

You must have a passport that is in good condition and is valid for three months AFTER your scheduled return to the U.S. You should have at least one blank page per stamp. The blank pages need to say “Visas” at the top. Pages marked “Amendments and Endorsements” will not be accepted. If you are from another country, please contact the Panama embassy website for guidelines. Information for U.S. citizens can be found at www.travelstate.gov .

It is recommended to check for changes 60-90 days before your tour departs but at the time of writing, a tourist visa is not required of US citizens for the length of this stay in Panama. Y ou will need proof of a return ticket. The necessary documents will be distributed by your airline while in flight or provided for you upon arrival. We advise that you bring your eContact list of hotels for use at immigration as well. 

As a precaution for loss or misplaced travel documents you are carrying on your person during travel, it is wise to carry a color photocopy of your passport ID page, your travel visa and even the back of your credit card(s) in your luggage or a carry-on, as a backup. Also, leave a copy with your emergency contact person at home. You may want to take a photo with your phone and have a copy there, along with a photo of the BAR CODE on your luggage tag. This greatly expedites getting a new one if necessary – we hope everyone will keep it close at all times and losing it will not be an issue.

General Health & Inoculations Information - Be Prepared!

We will share your health information with your guide. This information will be kept confidential but is very important as we want to be best prepared in case of medical emergency.  

Anti-malarial drugs are not required for any area that you visit. There are occasional reports of Dengue Fever in lower elevation areas, for which there is no vaccine. Dengue fever, Zika, and other diseases are contacted by mosquito bites so be sure to use mosquito repellant containing DEET or Picaridin.   Travelers can reduce their risk of disease by protecting themselves from mosquito bites in lower elevation areas by using protective clothing.

Vaccinations: Bring your up-to-date vaccination records with you. At the time of writing, if you are traveling to Panama from a country with endemic yellow fever, proof of a yellow fever vaccination is required. Otherwise, there were no other required vaccinations to enter Panama. It is always advisable to check with your physician as well as the CDC 4-6 weeks ahead of time for recommendations and changes in policy. We do recommend that all travelers should be up to date with routine vaccinations before traveling to any destination. These include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, varicella (chickenpox), polio and your yearly flu shot. The CDC recommends current vaccines for Hepatitis A and Typhoid.  Helpful website for planning is the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) website for Panama or by phone (800) CDC-INFO or (800) 232-4636.

Prescriptions and Allergies: It is a good idea to pack any meds you take regularly in your carry-on luggage.   Bring an extra pair of glasses or contact lenses. Bring an adequate supply of any prescription medications you use, a copy of the prescription and a list of generic names of your medicines as “back-up” in case it is necessary to purchase drugs while abroad. You’ll want to keep medications in their original, labeled containers.   It is also recommended to carry with you an up-to-date record of known allergies, chronic medical problems and Medic Alerts so that, if necessary, emergency treatment can be carried out without endangering your health.

Common Ailments: We recommend that you bring a travel-sized first aid kit and a supply of standard over-the-counter medications for common ailments (such as upset stomach, headache, motion sickness, diahhrea, minor scrapes, bug bites, etc.).

Weather & Climate

Generally, the dry season starts in the middle of December and lasts until the end of April; these are the windiest months. That being said, the tropical climate in Western Panama can vary tremendously depending upon altitude and geography. Temperatures at Tranquilo Bay in lowland rainforest habitat average 86 during the day and 73 at night with a consistent humidity around 82%; the island location with sea breezes is very pleasant. The cloud forest in the highlands can be much cooler.

For VERY hot days – plan to rest midday as you can, keep hydrated with plenty of fluids, and in general, just pace yourself not to get overheated. You may want to bring one of those gel-filled bandanas that cool your neck – a great invention. Do plan to protect yourself from the Equatorial sun.

Annoyances & Hazards

Mosquitoes can occur in the forests; therefore, a supply of insect repellent containing DEET is essential. At grassland or farm locations you may encounter chiggers, if so, spray your shoes with repellent, and tuck your pants into your socks, this helps a lot.   When back, be sure to shower and air out your clothing. Chiggers are a part of lowland and mid-elevation habitats throughout Central and South America. Your guide should have a good read on if it has been wet enough that they are active. There can also be poisonous snakes and insects, though encountering them is rare.   Do listen carefully to any advice given by your local guide. And remember the sun is strong and be prepared with proper protection.

Food & Drinks

Menus at lodges and restaurants are varied, sustainably based on the wonderful local ingredients available, and delightfully prepared in a sanitary environment. As with any case when traveling we urge you to consider what your body is used to before you eat something. Trust your common sense when consuming food and beverages. This is the best way to avoid any unwanted problems. Ask for recommendations from your hotel or refer to a guidebook such as Frommers.  Meals reflect the contributions of American, European, Spanish, and local cuisines.

Bottled water will be available for field trips and drinking water is provided for you to refill a bottle. One of the many ways we strive to do our part for the environment is by trying to reduce our consumption of plastics; if convenient we appreciate if you can bring reusable water bottles. Your guide will let you know when bottled water is preferable.

Packing, Clothing & Laundry

Dress is very informal and laundry services are available for a fee at our lodges. While some people will change for dinner, it is usually just to a drier or cleaner version of what they wore during the day. Again, the climate is warm to hot, so you will be comfortable in lightweight clothing.

The Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge provides free laundry service up to the amount supported by their water supply.

Please, pack light.   We are serious about this – we move around a lot; you just do not need much to cope with tropical life! Please do not bring anything more than you must. Lay out your hopeful things to take and then do a serious paring down please! 

TRAVEL TIP: Imagine NOT getting your suitcase. Wear your most important shoes for the field, have one day’s clothing change (including a change of underwear!). And please do not pack any essential medications, or your vital optics, in your checked luggage!

Spending Money

We advise you carry a mix of different types of payments, such as cash, an ATM card, and a credit card. U.S. currency is legal tender in Panama. This makes it quite easy for you as you can readily spend U.S. dollars.   The Panamanian balboa (B) or 1 USD = 100 centesimos.   Coin denominations are: B1 and B10; 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 centesimos.   Coins are of identical size, denomination, and metal as U.S. coins, and the coins of both nations are used throughout Panama interchangeably.

If you have U.S. dollars, then there is no need to exchange currency since it is legal tender. If you do want to change currencies, try to take only crisp and new notes, as wrinkled and soiled notes are likely to be refused. Panama’s ATMs are widely available in large cities. Smaller towns may not have any international ATMs that accept American cards. When using the ATM to withdrawal cash, keep in mind it might only accept cards from local banks or not allow cash advances on credit cards. Many U.S. banks charge a fee of $1 - $5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. Check with your bank before departure. You must become familiar with how to use your ATM card and PIN number ahead of the journey.

We suggest you have more than one card available, if possible. You may want to bring more than one brand of card (VISA and Mastercard are commonly accepted; American Express is less common). You can use credit cards at lodges to pay your bar and gift tabs. Not every shop will accept every card. Some smaller shops and restaurants, or taxis require cash, so it is always a good idea to ask before making a purchase. Also, we recommend that you advise your bank or credit card company that you will be traveling abroad to avoid questions, card freezes, or charges. If you have a choice of cards, bring one with no foreign exchange fees.

Traveler’s checks are not widely accepted. They can be difficult to exchange. We do not advise you use them.

Tipping throughout the tour is at your discretion. Some guidelines follow.

At larger (mostly city) hotels, tip maids and bar service as you would at home. At eco-lodges, there is typically a staff tip box in a public area; the going rate per person is $6-$10 a day, which is shared among staff for maid service, and general staff service at the lodges. Gratuities for group meals are already included.

Your Naturalist Journeys host will take care of smaller tips such field trip services by boat drivers, night drive outings, single activities.

Your additional tip is encouraged for birding tour guides and drivers who are with you for several days or the full trip; $10-$15 per day per guest is standard for guide service, and half that for a driver. If you have more than one local guide at a location, they will share the daily amount.

We encourage tipping for the local teams hosting you; anything extra for your Naturalist Journeys host is at your discretion.

Cell Phones & Internet Service

If you plan on using your cell phone on this trip, please check with your wireless provider to see if your

phone and service will work in your destination country. Ask for “international roaming” to be turn on your phone. Or you can buy a local SIM card at the airport and insert this in your mobile phone (just make certain your phone can accept one).

If your phone can connect to Wi-Fi, you may be able to make voice and video calls free of charge. Please contact your cell phone provider for further details. Another option if you have access to Wi-Fi, is to use smartphone apps like Skype, WhatsApp, or Viber to send text messages, and make voice calls, or video calls. Many smartphones, tablets, or laptops come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download for free. If bringing a laptop or tablet, get a good dustcover to protect it at all times.

Make sure if you do NOT want to use your cell phone that you turn off your cellular data. You could incur huge charges if you are not on Wi-Fi. Putting your phone in airplane mode if you mainly use it for photos will save the battery as well. Your hotels and most local restaurants provide Wi-Fi at least in their common areas. Although it is generally a reliable service, it can be affected by adverse weather conditions due to the remote location.

Please refrain from taking or making cell phone calls in the vehicles when traveling with other passengers, unless it appears to be an emergency. This disrupts other guests, plan on cell phone call use on your own time.

Electricity

Panama uses 110 volt, 60 cycle electricity, same as the US. Plugs are typically the 2-pronged flat type so US travelers will not need a converter or adapter. It is recommended you to pack a 3 to 2 prong adapter in case type B sockets are not available. Learn more at https://www.power-plugs-sockets.com/us/panama/ .

Panama is in the Eastern Standard Time Zone, which is one hour behind New York (Eastern Daylight Time).   Panama does not observe Summertime (or Daylight Savings Time). Check www.timeanddate.com before leaving home for you conversion.

Please contact Naturalist Journeys by email at [email protected] or telephone at our office: (520) 558-1146 or toll free: (866) 900-1146 if you have any questions. Many thanks for traveling with us and we hope you enjoy your journey!

Pace & Protocols +

Pace of the tour & what to expect.

You will receive a Schedule-at-a-Glance and list of hotels (our eContact List) a few weeks before your departure. This will serve as an outline for each day and alert you to any recent changes made in the schedule or to our hotels, if needed.

Our journeys are set up to follow the rhythm of nature. Our focus is on birding and nature; we offer full, well-planned field days and often get up early for that magical time around dawn. We generally follow the published itinerary, but we stay flexible to the weather, wildlife opportunities and the interests of the group. Your guide will keep you apprised of the next day’s schedule at each evening meal, noting what to bring and what to prepare for. Questions and/or concerns are welcome.

The pace of our Naturalist Journeys tours is moderate; to fully participate you should be able to get in and out of vehicles several times a day, and walk 1-3 miles over uneven terrain.  It is important to participate with a flexible attitude as adjustments may be made in our schedule to make the most of our time in the field or for other purposes at your guide's discretion. We are not a “listing” bird company that drills down on target species, but at times we do wait for those special species unique to the places we visit. During the day, we take time to stop for photos and for educational opportunities to learn about conservation projects, landscapes, and geology. We appreciate other taxa as well as birds, with mammals often the biggest draw but plants and butterflies are also very popular. Our clients often lend their own expertise to the mix.

We like to make meals a fun and memorable part of the experience, too. Breakfasts are often at hotels, and we carry snacks, fruit, and water in the vans each day. Lunches are a mix of picnics in the field (weather dependent) and a chance to dine with locals at small cafes and restaurants. For dinner, we pride ourselves in our homework to keep up with the best choices for dining, choosing restaurants with atmosphere that specialize in local foods. On occasion we keep dinner simple to go back out in the field for sunset wildlife viewing or night walks. In some remote locations, our choices are limited. If you are tired, room service for dinner may be an option you can choose.

Naturalist Journeys International Trips: Guide Role

Naturalist Journeys supports ecotourism and the development of excellent local guides. Once we know our international partners and guides well, we can send out small groups working directly with these trusted partners, adding a Naturalist Journeys guide to assist the local expert when we have a group of 6-7 or more. This helps us keep your costs down while retaining tour quality. The local guide is your main guide. You can expect your Naturalist Journeys guide to be well-researched and often they are experienced in the destination, but their role is not to be primary, it is to help to organize logistics, help you find birds, mammals, and interesting other species in the field, keep reports, help facilitate group interactions, and to keep the trip within Naturalist Journeys' style. Local guides live in the countries we travel to, know the destinations intimately, and are often the strongest force for conservation in their countries. They open many doors for us to have a rich experience.

Smoking is not permitted in any vehicle or in any situation where the group is participating in an activity together, such as a vehicle excursion or a guided walk. Please respect all designated smoking areas at hotels and restaurants.

Transportation

As a courtesy to each other, we ask that all travelers please rotate seating. On international trips we may all be in one small bus, on some trips we are in vans, particularly the roomy Sprinter Vans when available. Some areas require us to be in smaller 4-wheel drive or safari vehicles. Rotation allows you to sit with different drivers and alternate front and back seating.

Photo Release & Sharing

We take many group photos and will share photos with the group. And after your tour, we will organize a chance to share photos via Dropbox or Google Photos. Please note that this is our policy and if you prefer to be excluded, we need to know ahead of your tour.

By registering for this tour, you agree to grant to Naturalist Journeys and its authorized representatives’ permission to record on photography film and/or video, pictures of my participation in the tour. You further agree that any or all of the material photographed may be used, in any form, as part of any future publications, brochure, or other printed materials used to promote Naturalist Journeys, and further that such use shall be without payment of fees, royalties, special credit or other compensation.

Travel Insurance

You are traveling in remote areas. Naturalist Journeys strongly recommends you have full medical and evacuation insurance from a company such as  Allianz , for all international travel. If you do not have medical coverage or evacuation coverage on your existing travel insurance policy or for some reason elected not to take that out, we advise getting an evacuation plan with Global Rescue ,  World Nomads , Medjet , Allianz (they can do evacuation only) or a similar company. These plans are typically $300-$400 for a year for multiple destinations. This coverage may be a part of a larger Travel Insurance policy but can also be purchased on its own.

Please contact Naturalist Journeys by email at [email protected] or telephone our office: (520) 558-1146 or toll free: (866) 900-1146 if you have any questions. Many thanks for traveling with us and we hope you enjoy your journey.

Packing List +

Please pack lightly.

Soft luggage is much easier for us to pack in a vehicle than a more rigid hard sided piece, so if you have the choice, please use your soft luggage. Be sure to have your name and address on the inside of the bag, as well as on the luggage tag on the handle. It is our hope that you can pack in one suitcase that does not exceed 50 pounds. Be sure to pack your personal medication, airline tickets, passport, binoculars, camera, and other essential items in your carry-on bag. You will want a daypack for field trips, so this is the ideal carry-on. We recommend checking with your airline a week or so before your departure to verify luggage weight and size restrictions.

Dress is very informal. Lightweight long sleeve shirts and long pants make ideal field clothing as they are more protective from sun, insects and vegetation. But if you like to wear them by all means bring some shorts. Also, choose clothing you don’t mind getting dirty – and things that are comfortable and easy. A light jacket should be enough in the cooler evenings and on boat rides.

Note on clothing colors and insect repellent: We recommend muted colors of tan, brown, khaki, grey or green, as they are spotted less easily than white or bright colors, though camouflage clothing is not recommended, and in some countries, not legal to wear. It is possible to purchase field clothing permeated with insect repellent such as the Craghoppers Insect Shield collection. Another approach is to purchase Permethrin spray (online or from REI) to treat your field clothing and socks before your departure.

Clothing and Gear

• Lightweight long pants, 2 pair
• Lightweight long-sleeved shirts
• Shorts (optional)
• T-shirts or equivalent (3-4 recommended – remember you may be buying some there)
• Personal underclothing
• Socks – lightweight, long enough to tuck your pants into, and easy to wash and dry
• Comfortable clothes for evening (a cleaner version of your field clothes or a skirt, sundress, etc.)
• Hat with broad brim
• Bandana, gel bandanas work well to keep cool
• Comfortable walking shoes and lightweight hiking boots – (good tread and support is essential!)
• Sandals for evenings, travel days (optional)
• Lightweight raincoat or poncho
• Lightweight jacket, fleece fabric is ideal
• Bathing suit
• Field vest (optional), a great source is Big Pockets

Equipment and Miscellaneous

• E-ticket confirmation
• Valid passport, travel insurance info, money & credit cards.
• A secure pouch to carry the items above on your person at all times (such as a secure, under-clothing document pouch)
• As a backup: copies of all the above (phone and/or paper) packed in a separate location than on your person, plus a set given to your emergency contact at home as a backup. For passport, copy of the  ID and entry stamp pages.
• Small daypack/tote bag to carry gear while in vehicles
• Binoculars (a hotel shower cap is great to cover these when it is raining)
• Spotting scope and tripod (optional)
• Camera and extra batteries, film, lens cleaning supplies and your instruction manual (optional)
• Phone – smartphones with good cameras are great for digiscoping
• Umbrella – compact and not brightly colored
• Walking stick (optional, but recommended if you have one)
• Small daypack or fanny pack for carrying your field gear
• Small flashlight with fresh batteries
• Alarm clock, or use your cell phone
• Sunscreen/lip balm high SPF
• Sunglasses with neck strap
• Insect Repellent (something containing DEET, and sulphur powder or other for chiggers if you can find it)
• Toiletry articles: shampoo and conditioner, dental supplies, razor, emery boards, hairbrush/comb, tweezers, hand lotion, feminine hygiene, deodorant, pain reliever
• Chargers for cameras and/or phones
• Three prong adapters, if needed (most outlets will have standard three prong outlets that are the same as in the USA & Canada)
• Rechargeable power bank (optional)
• Water bottle
• Notebook or journal and pen (optional)
• Spanish phrase dictionary
• Field guides (optional)
• Small bottle of antibacterial hand soap
• Waterproof bags to keep things dry, preferably reusable
• Steri-Pen or other UV water treatment device to help cut down on the use of plastic bottles (optional)

WE DO NOT RECOMMEND TRAVELING WITH PRECIOUS OR VALUABLE JEWELRY – don’t tempt anyone and don’t bring things you’d regret losing - your mind will be at ease!

Medical and First Aid Items

• Personal medication (and copy of vital prescriptions)
• Motion sickness preventatives if likely to be needed on bus, van, drives, etc.
• Personal first aid kit and medications for general ailments
• Copy of eyeglass prescription, copy of medical prescriptions, and any medical alerts
• Insurance information
• Extra pair of eyeglasses or contacts
• Band-Aids, moleskin to protect against blisters

Suggested Reading List +

There are many titles of interest for Panama; the following are a few that we have enjoyed that can get you started.

Merlin App – Panama Pack. A phone-based birding app from Cornell University Laboratory of Ornithology. Before departing the U.S., download the app for free , then from within the app, download the “pack” for Panama.

The Birds of Panama: A Field Guide

Field Guides

A Guide to the Birds of Panama: with Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Honduras

Field Book of Birds of the Panama Canal Zone: A Description of the Habits, Call Notes and Songs of the Birds of the Panama Canal Zone

Birds of Mexico and Central America

Birds of Central America

Neotropical Rainforest Mammals: A Field Guide

A Field Guide to the Mammals of Central America and Southeast Mexico

A Swift Guide to the Butterflies of Mexico and Central America

The Butterflies of Central America is no longer in print, but the PDFs can be purchased from the Neotropical Butterflies website: www.neotropicalbutterflies.com/Site%20Revision/Pages/Books/Index_books.html

Collin’s Guide to Tropical Plants

Panama Adventure Map by National Geographic

Costa Rica: the Traveller’s Wildlife Guide

The Wildlife of Costa Rica: A Field Guide

Natural History

Birds of Tropical America

The New Neotropical Companion

Life Above the Jungle Floor

Tropical Nature

The High Frontier: Exploring the Tropical Rainforest Canopy

The Monkey's Bridge: Mysteries of Evolution in Central America

History & Culture

The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal, 1870-1914

Portrait of the Panama Canal: Celebrating Its History and Expansion

Chilies to Chocolate: Foods the Americas Gave the World

National Geographic Traveler: Panama

Memoir/Non-Fiction

The Darien Gap: Travels in the Rainforest of Panama

The Tapir’s Morning Bath, Solving the Mysteries of the Tropical Rainforest

There is a good selection of books available for sale at visitors’ centers, and your guide will also have a selection of reference books and materials for participants to share. As an Amazon Associate, Naturalist Journeys earns from qualifying purchases, and may get commissions for purchases made through links on this page at no added cost to you.

Useful Links +

About Panama

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama

Panama Country Overview – BBC News

• https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-19888936

Nature, Wildlife & Biology

Birds of Panama

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_birds_of_Panama
• https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/10890

eBird Hotspot - Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge

• https://ebird.org/hotspot/L2251459

eBird Hotspot - Fortuna Forest Reserve

• https://ebird.org/hotspot/L454716

eBird Hotspot - San San Pond Sak

• https://ebird.org/hotspot/L10061593

Swainson’s and Broad-winged Hawk – Similar Species Comparison

• https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Swainsons_Hawk/species-compare/
• https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Broad-winged_Hawk/id
• https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/k/kinkajou/
• https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?place_id=7003&view=species&iconic_taxa=Mammalia
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mammals_of_Panama
• https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?place_id=7003&view=species&iconic_taxa=Amphibia
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_amphibians_of_Panama
• https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?place_id=7003&view=species&iconic_taxa=Reptilia
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Reptiles_of_Panama

Butterflies

• https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?place_id=7003&q=butterfly&view=species&iconic_taxa=Insecta

Endemics of Panama

• https://lntreasures.com/panamam.html

Overview of the Rainforests of Panama

• https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/4150/rainforests-of-panama

Conservation

Fortuna Forest Reserve and Field Research Center

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortuna_Forest_Reserve
• https://stri.si.edu/facility/fortuna

San San-Pond Sak Wetlands

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_San-Pond_Sak

La Amistad Biosphere Reserve

• https://en.unesco.org/biosphere/lac/la-amistad_panama

Palo Seco Forest Reserve

• http://datazone.birdlife.org/site/factsheet/palo-seco-protection-forest-iba-panama

Audubon Society’s Work in Panama

• https://www.audubon.org/conservation/americas/panama
• https://www.audubon.org/conservation/international-panama

Panama Wildlife Conservation

• https://panamawildlife.org/

Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute in Panama

• https://stri.si.edu/research
• https://stri.si.edu/why-panama

Association for the Conservation of Nature (ANCON) - a private non-profit

• https://ancon.org/

Birdlife International

• https://www.birdlife.org/who-we-are/
• https://www.birdlife.org/projects/ibas-mapping-most-important-places/

Geology & Geography

“Panama: Isthmus that Changed the World”

• https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/4073/panama-isthmus-that-changed-the-world

“New Data of Panama Formation Throws Cold Water on Ice Age Origin Ideas” ? A Scientific American Article

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/new-dating-panama-formations-cast-doubt-ice-age-origins/

“Geology and Paleontology of Canal Zone and Adjoining Parts of Panama” ? A US Department of the Interior Geological Survey

https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/0306a/report.pdf

Article - “The Isthmus of Panama: Out of the Deep Earth” by Kevin Krajick

• https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2014/03/31/the-isthmus-of-panama-out-of-the-deep-earth/

Geography of Panama

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geography_of_Panama

Talamanca Mountain Range

• https://lacgeo.com/cordillera-talamanca-mountain-range

Brief Histories of Panama

• https://globaledge.msu.edu/countries/panama/history
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Panama

A Cultural Overview

• https://www.embassyofpanama.org/culture

Native peoples

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_Panama

Panamanian Cuisine

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panamanian_cuisine

Helpful Travel Websites

Tocumen International Airport (PTY)

• https://www.tocumenpanama.aero/

Homeland Security Real ID Act

• https://www.dhs.gov/real-id

Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

• https://www.tsa.gov

National Passport Information Center

• https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/passports.html

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP)

• https://www.cbp.gov/travel

Foreign Exchange Rates

• https://www.xe.com/

ATM Locator

• https://www.visa.com/atmlocator/
• https://www.mastercard.us/en-us/personal/get-support/find-nearest-atm.html

U.S. Department of State International Travel Information - Panama

• https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Panama.html

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) - Panama

• https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/panama?s_cid=ncezid-dgmq-travel-single-001

Canada Travel Advice and Advisories - Panama

https://travel.gc.ca/destinations/panama

Travel Health Pro (UK) - Panama

https://travelhealthpro.org.uk/country/174/panama

Electricity and Plugs - Panama

• https://www.power-plugs-sockets.com/panama/

Date, Time, and Holidays - Panama

• https://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/panama
• https://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/panama/

Photo credits: Canopy Tower view, Joe Tieger; Tranquilo Bay, Maggie Tieger; Osprey, Joe Tieger; Green Honeycreeper, Maggie Tieger; Howler Monkey, Joe Tieger; Orange-chinned Parakeet, Joe Tieger; Squirrel Cuckoo, Joe Tieger; American Pygmy Kingfisher, Maggie Tieger; Anteater, Joe Tieger; Blue-chested Hummingbird, Joe Tieger; Canal, Joe Tieger; Yellow-throated Toucan, Joe Tieger; Cabana, courtesy of Tranquilo Bay; Striated Heron, Joe Tieger; View from tower, courtesy of Tranquilo Bay; Blue Dacnis, Joe Tieger; Tranquilo bay dock aerial view, courtesy of Tranquilo Bay; Poison Dart Frog, Joe Tieger; Lovely Cotinga, James Adams; Tranquilo Bay, Maggie Tieger; Keel-billed Toucan, Maggie Tieger; Crowned Woodnymph, Joe Tieger; Tranquilo Bay, Maggie Tieger; Lesser Kiskadee, Maggie Tieger; Slaty-tailed Trogon, Maggie Tieger; Brown Booby, Cristina Heins; Broad-billed Motmot, Maggie Tieger; Orange-bellied Trogon, Joe Tieger; Blue-gray Tanager, Joe Tieger; Osprey, Joe Tieger; Masked Tityra, Joe Tieger; Boat-billed Heron, Maggie Tieger; Sunset, Joe Tieger; Buff-throated Saltator, Joe Tieger; Clay-colored Thrush, Joe Tieger; Common Moorhen, Joe Tieger; Crimson-backed Tanager, Joe Tieger; Dusky-faced Tanager, Maggie Tieger; Flame-rumped Tanager, Joe Tieger; Green Honeycreeper, Joe Tieger; Red-billed Tropicbird, Maggie Tieger; Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Maggie Tieger; Panama local on a canoe, Joe Tieger; Shining Honeycreeper, Maggie Tieger.

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Playa Muerto: Harpy Eagles and Community Development in Darien

Darien, Panama, is considered one of the most biodiverse places in the world. It is home to lush tropical forests, Harpy Eagles, jaguars, and a host of other incredible plants and animals. A trip there is a true “off the beaten path” experience. While it does hold some challenges, the rewards for taking a trip to this part of Panama are limitless. Playa Muerto is the only community found within Darien National Park. Approximately 50 houses dot the forest that grows along the Pacific Coast. In May, Edwin and I traveled there with Jose Vargas, a Harpy Eagle biologist with The Peregrine Fund , to conduct a bird identification and bird training workshop for 15 community members. In July, Jenn, Angel, and I returned for a second visit. We provided more training for community members interested in working as bird guides and naturalists.

Getting to Playa Muerto

A trip to Playa Muerto begins with an early morning drive. From Panama City, it takes about four hours to get to the town of Meteti. Once out of the city, the scenery changes quickly with mixed views of forests, open pastures, small communities, and the lovely Lake Bayano. The roads are mostly good, with a few long stretches of potholes that require some skilled driving to avoid. After some quick stops to pick up supplies, we meet our friend and skilled captain, Rangel, in the port of Puerto Quimba. We loaded all of our gear onto the boat, and quickly set out. The day started off gorgeous and sunny. A flock of Orange-chinned parakeets flew overhead. Dolphins briefly surfaced. Brown Pelicans, Neotropic Cormorants, and Brown Boobies flew in graceful patterns above the sea.

After nearly three hours, we reached the shores of Playa Muerto. Maneuvering the boat onto shore takes some definite skills, as the waves here can be quite high and strong. After pushing the boat onto the sand, we stepped onto the pebbled beach. We hauled our gear just a few hundred feet to the thatch-roofed structures that would be our home for the next few nights.

The Adventure to the Harpy Eagle nest

Deep in the rainforest of Darien National Park, approximately 4 km from Playa Muerto, a young Harpy Eagle has recently fledged from its nest. At this stage, even though the eaglet has left the nest, it will remain close. For the next year or so, it will remain in its parents’ territory until it is ready to hunt on its own. This offers a great opportunity for us to visit a Harpy Eagle nest site and see this magnificent eagle in the wild.

After an early breakfast, we head out and soon find ourselves walking along a narrow yet well-worn trail through the cultivated lands. They grow corn, rice, cassava, bananas, plantains, and raise pigs and chickens as their main food sources. Before we know it we are entering the forest edge, where fruiting trees such as mango and cacao form inviting groves. Then we enter the rainforest where trees grow over a hundred feet tall. The understory is full of a great diversity of plants and shrubs.

The anticipation builds as we know we are entering Harpy Eagle habitat, but there is still a long way to go. We reach the first stream crossing, and it’s time to get our feet wet! These rivers meander through the rainforest, and we cross them several times along the way to the Harpy nest. If the weather has been fair, the water level reaches just below our knees. If it has been raining, the strong current and higher water levels make these river crossings a good challenge and part of this great adventure!

On our first trip to Playa Muerto, as a part of the bird guide and bird ID workshops, we took our time getting to the Harpy Eagle nest, birding along the way. We arrived at the nest after a few hours. On our second visit, we decided to go directly to the nest site, and bird on the way back. Walking to a Harpy Eagle nest builds much anticipation. The closer we get the more we can almost feel the mighty bird’s presence.

The first half of the walk is flat with river crossings; the second part through more mature forests has some small ups and downs and smaller stream crossings. After about an hour and a half, we arrive at a small camp area near the nest. We’re close now. We are silent from here on, so as not to disturb the nearby eagles. A final hike uphill on a muddy slope brings us to a blind where we can see the huge stick nest in a tall Almendro tree.

On our visit in May, the young eagle, around 5 months of age, was still in the nest. It was just weeks away from fledging. We watched from a safe distance not to disturb the eaglet or its parents, which were nowhere in sight. When we returned in June, the eaglet had fledged a couple of weeks prior to our visit. It was spotted perched just meters from the nest. To observe this young eagle during this major part in its development was a true blessing. At this point in its life, the adult eagles spend most of their time away from the nest. They only return on occasion to drop off food for the growing fledgling and will continue to do so for the next year or so.

After our time at the Harpy Eagle nest, observing this bird as it spends its days in the rainforest canopy, we quietly retreat. From a different spot on the slope, our local guide, Alan, spots the eaglet from a better view. We once again revel in the striking beauty and immense size of this rare forest eagle among the giant trees. The hike back passes quickly, no doubt due to the pleasant relief from our anticipation of seeing the bird. An adventure to see a Harpy Eagle isn’t complete without a dip in a tranquil forest waterfall pool. On the way back, we did just that, cooling us off from the hot tropical sun beating down on us late in the morning. We continued birding along the way back to the community and arrived in time for lunch.

Guide Training and English Workshops in Playa Muerto

A big reason why we visit Playa Muerto is to work with some of the community members. Playa Muerto has long been a stopover spot for cruise ships passing along this coastline. The community welcomes tourists, shares their culture through presentations of dance, their artisan handicrafts, and local food. Playa Muerto’s tourism cooperative has constructed sleeping quarters, a bathroom, and a dining room to host guests to the community. Local guides show tourists around the community and on the trails to the river, lookouts, waterfalls, and other amazing natural features nearby.

As birding tourism continues to rise, one of our objectives for these visits is to offer bird ID and guide training workshops. In May, Edwin and I spent over 8 hours with 15 members of the community on theoretical and practical bird guide and bird ID training. These workshops included the basics on how to ID birds, breaking it down to make it simple and fun. They also learned how to use field guides, how to point out birds in the field. They also started listening to bird calls and much more. We spent time around the community spotting and identifying the common species found there. This allowed the participants to get comfortable with the use of binoculars and spotting scopes. Jenn carried on the training in June with a practice session on IDing birds in the field guide.

In June, I was asked to help some of the community’s artisans learn some English to help them sell their handicrafts when tourists come to visit. In one of the rooms of the three-room schoolhouse, I taught a short English class to 10 people, all eager to learn how to communicate in English. I focused on common questions that they may get from tourists: “How much does it cost?” “What is it made of?” and how to answer these questions: “twenty-five dollars” and “it is made from natural palm fibers.” We even worked on a little bit of bartering! They really valued the class, the help with pronunciation, and asked for more English classes on our future visits.

Visit Playa Muerto: An Unforgettable Experience in Darien

Whitehawk offers several opportunities for travel to Darien. Our recent work with Playa Muerto has proven enriching for us and for those who have joined us on the trips there so far. We will be offering more trips to this community. A visit will give travelers the opportunity to search for a Harpy Eagle in the wild, as well as to learn about the Embera people of Darien and if desired, and interact directly with the community. Contact us for more information about visiting Playa Muerto and Darien.

Whitehawk Birding

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Sexual Assault of Migrants in Panama Rises to Level Rarely Seen Outside War

The New York Times interviewed more than 70 people who said they had been victims of armed robbery. Fourteen were women who said they had suffered sexual violence.

After fleeing Venezuela and crossing the Darién jungle, the 8-year-old, in pink, was held up by armed men and forced to strip naked, her parents said. Her mother, in white, was sexually assaulted and her parents were robbed. Credit...

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By Julie Turkewitz

Photographs by Federico Rios

Julie Turkewitz and Federico Rios have spent months in the Darién Gap region reporting on migration.

• April 4, 2024

The girl, 8, from Venezuela, had slept fitfully the night before, wailing in her dreams, her mother said, about the men trying to kill her.

Days earlier, the family had entered the Darién Gap, the jungle straddling Colombia and Panama that in the last three years has become one of the world’s busiest migrant highways. After climbing mountains and crisscrossing rivers in their quest to reach the United States, their group was accosted by a half-dozen men in ski masks, holding long guns and issuing threats.

“Women, take off your clothes!” the assailants shouted, the mother said, before they probed each woman’s intimate parts looking for cash.

Sons, brothers and husbands were forced to watch. Then the men turned to the girl, her mother said, ordering her to undress for a search, too.

Assault, robbery and rape have long been a grim risk of migrant journeys around the globe. But aid groups working in the Darién Gap say that in the past six months they have documented an extraordinary spike in attacks, with patterns and frequencies rarely seen outside of war zones.

Nearly all the attacks, they say, are happening on the Panamanian side of the jungle.

Long-established aid groups, including Doctors Without Borders and UNICEF, with experience working in conflicts, say the attacks are organized and exceptionally cruel. Perpetrators beat victims and take food, even baby formula, leaving people battered and starving in the forest.

And the assaults often involve cases in which dozens of women are violated in a single event.

In January and February, Doctors Without Borders recorded 328 reports of sexual violence, compared with 676 in all of 2023. This year, 113 came in a single week in February.

“The level of brutality is extreme,” said Luis Eguiluz, the organization’s director in Colombia and Panama.

Caribbean Sea

UNITED States

Several humanitarian organizations, including Human Rights Watch , accuse Panama’s border police, which is charged with security in the jungle and has officers patrolling the forest, of failing to protect migrants and allowing perpetrators to commit crimes with impunity.

These accusations come as top Panamanian officials voice growing frustration with the financial and environmental cost that migration has inflicted on the small nation, and amid growing calls among political leaders — including candidates in an upcoming presidential election — to halt the flow of people.

Two reporters for The New York Times captured a snapshot of the violence in March, speaking with more than 70 people during a four-day period who said they had been robbed by clusters of armed men in the jungle.

Of those interviewed, 14 were women who said they had been sexually violated, ranging from forcible touching to rape.

“They do all kinds of evil to you,” said one woman, 40, a mother of six who had been living in Chile. She was surrounded by a half-dozen masked men and raped, she said, after the group she was traveling with left her alone in the jungle. (The Times is withholding the names of people who say they had been victims of sexual violence to protect their privacy.)

Panama’s top security official, Juan Manuel Pino, whose ministry oversees the 5,000-person border police, known as Senafront, declined repeated requests for an interview.

Speaking at a public event, Edgar Pitti, the top Senafront official in the Darién, said officers were doing all they could to protect migrants, considering the jungle’s challenging terrain.

“It’s important to understand the geographic context,” he said.

Several Panamanian officials said the problem was not as serious as described by aid groups and migrants.

The prosecutor charged with leading investigations into organized crime, Emeldo Márquez, insisted in an interview that sexual violence on the migrant route in his country “has gone down.”

But data from his office shows investigators opened 17 cases into sexual assault on the Panamanian side of the jungle in 2023, and 14 so far this year. Mr. Márquez explained that for some of this year’s cases he was still verifying claims by victims.

The director of the country’s National Migration Service, Samira Gozaine, expressed skepticism recently in a post on the platform X about the data provided by Doctors Without Borders.

“It is easy to say people here are raped every day,” she said . “Where is the evidence?”

Ms. Gozaine declined a request for an interview.

Until recently, Doctors Without Borders was the primary nonprofit providing health care to migrants at the end of the Darién route, with 67 staff serving roughly 5,000 people a month, the organization said. It was also the main group collecting testimony of sexual assault claims.

But in early March, following the organization’s repeated public statements about violence against migrants, Panama ordered Doctors Without Borders to suspend operations.

The country’s health minister, Luis Fernando Sucre, said in an interview with The Times that the medical group had not complied with local regulations, including reporting the names of sexual assault victims to the government to help with investigations.

The suspension order, he said, was not in retaliation for the group’s reports about attacks in the jungle.

But Ms. Gozaine also accused the organization and other “international bodies” of directing migrants into Panama by providing information about the route, contributing to the country’s problems.

Doctors Without Borders declined to comment.

The 8-year-old girl from Venezuela had been in third grade when her parents decided to leave for the United States. With dark curly hair and a love for animals, she said she wanted to be a veterinarian when she grew up.

Her mother, age 35, said their family left Venezuela after they were threatened by supporters of President Nicolás Maduro, whom they had refused to support. They moved to Colombia, where her husband delivered groceries, making less than the minimum monthly wage of about $300. With their two children they eventually decided to follow hundreds of thousands of other Venezuelans on a now well-trodden path north.

During the attack in early March, the mother said, masked men patrolled a line of terrified people.

A woman who refused to take off her clothes was yanked violently by her hair, she added.

The mother said she was beaten, and then, naked, searched between her legs, a man probing with his fingers, demanding money.

When they turned to her daughter, they threatened to kill the girl if she did not undress.

“Mami,” she recalled her daughter shouting, “I’ll take off my clothes! I don’t want to die.”

The men did not touch the girl, her mother said, and after they were sure she had no money, left quickly.

Other survivors recounted stories of nearly identical attacks, saying the assaults often happened a few hours’ hike past a Senafront camp inside the forest.

Last year, Panama arrested four people accused of sexual assault in the jungle, according to Mr. Márquez, who declined to say if there had been any arrests this year.

People crossing the Darién in Panama must pass a stretch of the jungle that is home to communities of Kuna and Emberá Indigenous peoples. These communities have seen their livelihoods transformed by migration: Their water and land has been polluted by trash, but they also have new opportunities to make money selling food, boat transport and other services.

Dozens of victims, all of whom spoke Spanish, said the perpetrators spoke to each other in an Indigenous language. Some people said they were robbed multiple times, by men speaking an Indigenous language and, separately, by men speaking Spanish with a Colombian accent.

A representative of the Colombian police declined to comment on violence in the jungle.

In interviews, several Indigenous leaders said some perpetrators might come from their villages, and urged the Panamanian border police to investigate.

Tulio Rosales, a leader in the Emberá village of Villa Caleta, called on the border police to “put more force” into migrant protection.

A 29-year-old woman from Venezuela left with her partner and four children, fleeing poverty. They had been walking roughly 12 hours a day when armed men stopped them, she said.

The woman’s partner was allowed to move on with the children, but the woman was forced to stay behind and undress. She wept as she described how one of the masked men placed his fingers inside each of the roughly 16 women who remained, searching for money, she said.

Afterward, she fled in a panic, forgetting the family’s food.

Then her group was accosted a second time, this time while they slept. Again a group of masked men forced some people to strip naked and hand over cash. This time, the woman said, she had nothing left to give.

As crises around the world have pushed a record number of people from their homes, the Darién jungle — which must be traversed to reach the United States from South America by foot — has become an unforgiving rite of passage for those seeking new lives.

More than 520,000 people crossed this stretch last year, more than twice the year before, which has helped fuel the historic number of arrivals at the U.S. border.

This year, Darién crossings in January, February and March were up nearly 25 percent compared to the same period in 2023, according to Panamanian authorities , with most people coming from Venezuela, Ecuador, Haiti and Colombia.

Panama, a nation of just over four million people, has seen a million migrants pass through in just three years. Ms. Gozaine, the director of the National Migration Service, says this tide of people has cost the country $70 million, including money spent on lodging and food at government-run camps at the end of the jungle.

The government’s goal, Ms. Gozaine has said, is to provide migrants a “dignified” experience in her country.

But as frustration among Panamanian officials has grown, the country’s security officials have deepened ties to several right-wing influencers who have become popular in the United States by portraying migrants as potential criminals and aid groups as profiteers encouraging their journey .

Some influencers have toured the Darién Gap with the border police. Oscar Ramirez, a correspondent for Real America’s Voice, which also hosts Steve Bannon’s show, was invited in February to address hundreds of Panamanian officials at a security conference in Panama City.

The accusations of sexual assault come as the Biden administration ramps up aid to Panama, which it has called a key partner in its efforts to control and halt the flow of people.

In the last three years, Washington has delivered nearly $40 million to help Panama deal with migration.

Asked at a recent event if the United States would urge Panama to do more to protect migrants, the U.S. Embassy’s second-in-command in Panama, John Barrett, declined to answer, saying simply that he understood that there was a “humanitarian situation” in the jungle.

The mother of the 8-year-old said that on the day the family was attacked, perpetrators took the last of their savings: $280.

“They stole my daughter’s innocence,” she said of the attack in the Darién. “I can stand anything, but she cannot.”

Eventually, the family made it to southern Mexico. There, the mother said in audio message from a friend’s cellphone, the family was kidnapped and held for two days in a cockfighting arena.

The mother was again forced to strip naked and searched for valuables, she said.

Once released, the family sold candies in the street, planning to use their earnings to try and continue north.

Federico Rios, Simón Posada and Ken Bensinger contributed reporting.

Julie Turkewitz is the Andes Bureau Chief for The Times, based in Bogotá, Colombia, covering Colombia, Venezuela, Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru. More about Julie Turkewitz

Crossing the Darién Gap

An increasing number of migrants are trying to pass through the perilous terrain connecting south and central america in the hopes of reaching the united states..

Sexual Assault of Migrants: Assault, robbery and rape have long been a grim risk of migrant journeys around the globe. But aid groups working in the Darién Gap say that recently they have documented frequencies  rarely seen outside of war zones.

A Deadly Journey : With mountains, intense mud, fast-running rivers and thick rainforest, the Darién Gap is one of the most dangerous places on the planet .

Chasing Clicks in the Jungle : The treacherous migrant crossing in Panama is drawing packs of right-wing American influencers , who are distorting how immigration is perceived, and debated, at home.

An Endless Wait: After setting off for the United States and surviving a perilous jungle, a mother and daughter obeyed President Biden’s plea to turn around and apply to enter the country legally. Now they are languishing in migrant purgatory ..

Record-Breaking Numbers : As more migrants risk a deadly trek to the U.S. border, brutal scenes are developing along the roadless stretch of jungle terrain .

Turning a Profit: The Biden administration and the Colombian government have vowed to stop the migrant tide through the jungle. But for politicians and businessmen in the region, the profits are too big to pass up .

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Panama and Colombia fail to protect migrants on Darien jungle route, Human Rights Watch says

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Colombia and Panama are failing to protect hundreds of thousands of migrants who cross the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S. and have become increasingly vulnerable to robberies and sexual violence, Human Rights Watch said in a report published Wednesday.

The watchdog called on both countries to appoint high-level officials to coordinate the response to the humanitarian crisis unfolding in the Darien and recommended that their governments work jointly to improve security and ensure more assistance from international groups.

“Whatever the reason for their journey, migrants and asylum-seekers crossing the Darien Gap are entitled to basic safety and respect for their human rights along the way,” Juanita Goebertus, Americas director of Human Rights Watch, said in a statement issued before the report’s publication.

Goebertus also called on Panama’s government to reconsider a recent decision to suspend the medical charity Doctors Without Borders, also known as MSF, from operating in its territory.

World & Nation

Panama eyes new measures as flow of migrants through Darien Gap hits 300,000 so far this year

The government of Panama says it will launch a new campaign to stem the flow of migrants through the dangerous, jungle-clad Darien Gap.

Aug. 24, 2023

“Restricting MSF’s work is exactly the opposite of what is needed to address the situation in the Darien Gap,” Goebertus said.

Human Rights Watch’s recommendations come as record numbers of migrants cross the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S.

Last year, more than 520,000 people crossed the dense and roadless rainforest that stands between South America and Central America, according to Panama’s immigration department. That was twice as many as in 2022.

About half of those making the dangerous journey were Venezuelans escaping their nation’s economic and political crisis. They were joined by tens of thousands of migrants from Ecuador and Haiti, as well as about 4,000 Afghan refugees.

The trek across the rainforest can last anywhere from three to five days, with migrants paying hundreds of dollars to guides and smugglers to lead them along muddy trails and treacherous river crossings. Dozens of people have drowned.

Panama reports a sharp increase in migrants crossing the dangerous Darien Gap

Panama’s government estimates that 50,000 migrants crossed the treacherous Darien Gap from Colombia in the first two months of the year.

March 23, 2023

The Colombian side of the jungle is controlled by the Gulf Clan, a drug-trafficking group that is taxing local guides and earning up to $125 for every migrant who crosses into Panama, according to estimates provided to Human Rights Watch by Colombian military officials, and cited in the group’s previous report on the Darien Gap, published in November.

In its most recent report, Human Rights Watch said that Colombia’s government should ensure that prosecutors “investigate the role of the Gulf Clan in taking migrants and asylum seekers across the Darien Gap.” It also urged Colombia to increase state presence in the area and devote more resources to agencies that investigate attacks on migrants.

“Crimes against migrants and asylum seekers in the Darien Gap, including pervasive cases of sexual violence, go largely uninvestigated and unpunished on both sides of the border,” the report said. “Accountability for these abuses is rare, due to a combination of limited resources and personnel ... and poor coordination between Colombian and Panamanian authorities.”

In February, Doctors Without Borders said that cases of sexual violence in the Darien were increasing at “exponential” levels, with 113 migrants treated for symptoms of sexual violence at two camps on the northern edge of the Darien Gap in a week’s span. The organization said in a news release it was “outraged [over] the level of impunity” with which criminal groups are operating within the region. Shortly after, MSF’s operations in Panama were suspended by that nation’s government.

How Panama plans to stop migrant-smuggling through the perilous Darien Gap

Panama has unveiled a new effort to control illegal migration through the treacherous Darien Gap that spans its eastern border with Colombia.

June 5, 2023

In Wednesday’s report Human Rights Watch urged Panama to allow MSF and other humanitarian groups to operate in the country without “undue restrictions.” It also accused the government of Panama of enacting policies that limit the movements of migrants.

Under a policy known as “controlled flow,” Panama allows migrants who cross the Darien jungle into its territory and hosts them briefly in two camps, where they can pay to board buses that take them straight to Costa Rica, the next country on the road to the U.S.

Human Rights Watch said in its report that Panamanian officials are preventing migrants who cannot pay for bus tickets from leaving the camps. The organization called on Panama to modify its controlled flow strategy and establish a plan that ensures the right of migrants who wish to stay in Panama to seek asylum, while enabling those who want to continue their journey to move freely within the nation.

Rueda writes for the Associated Press.

More to Read

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March 19, 2024

Judge dismisses states’ challenge to Biden program allowing entry to migrants from 4 countries

March 8, 2024

Migrant caravan headed to the U.S. from Honduras disbands in Guatemala

Jan. 22, 2024

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Panama and Colombia fail to protect migrants on Darien jungle route, Human Rights Watch says

FILE - Haitian migrants wade through water as they cross the Darien Gap from Colombia to Panama in hopes of reaching the United States, May 9, 2023. Colombia and Panama are failing to protect hundreds of thousands of migrants who are crossing the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S. and have become increasingly vulnerable to robberies and sexual violence, Human Rights Watch said in a report published Wednesday, April 3, 2024. (AP Photo/Ivan Valencia, File)

FILE - Migrants walk across the Darien Gap from Colombia to Panama on their long and difficult journey to reach the United States, May 9, 2023. Colombia and Panama are failing to protect hundreds of thousands of migrants who are crossing the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S. and have become increasingly vulnerable to robberies and sexual violence, Human Rights Watch said in a report published Wednesday, April 3, 2024. (AP Photo/Ivan Valencia, File)

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BOGOTA, Colombia (AP) — Colombia and Panama are failing to protect hundreds of thousands of migrants who cross the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S. and have become increasingly vulnerable to robberies and sexual violence, Human Rights Watch said in a report published on Wednesday.

The watchdog called on both countries to appoint high-level officials to coordinate the response to the humanitarian crisis unfolding in the Darien and recommended that their governments work jointly to improve security and ensure more assistance from international groups.

“Whatever the reason for their journey, migrants and asylum-seekers crossing the Darien Gap are entitled to basic safety and respect for their human rights along the way,” Juanita Goebertus, Americas director of Human Rights Watch, said in a statement issued before the report’s publication.

Goebertus also called on Panama’s government to reconsider a recent decision to suspend the medical charity, Doctors Without Borders, also known as MSF, from operating in its territory.

“Restricting MSF’s work is exactly the opposite of what is needed to address the situation in the Darien Gap,” Goebertus said.

Human Rights Watch’s recommendations come as record numbers of migrants cross the Darien jungle on their way to the U.S.

Last year, more than 520,000 people crossed the dense and roadless rainforest that stands between South America and Central America, according to Panama’s immigration department. That was twice as many as in 2022.

About half of those making the dangerous journey were Venezuelans escaping their nation’s economic and political crisis. They were joined by tens of thousands of migrants from Ecuador and Haiti, as well as about 4,000 Afghan refugees.

The trek across the rainforest can last anywhere from three to five days, with migrants paying hundreds of dollars to guides and smugglers to lead them along muddy trails and treacherous river crossings. Dozens of people have drowned.

The Colombian side of the Darien is controlled by the Gulf Clan, a drug trafficking group that is taxing local guides and earning up to $125 for every migrant that crosses into Panama, according to estimates provided to HRW by Colombian military officials, and cited in the group’s previous report on the Darien Gap, published in November.

In its most recent report, HRW said that Colombia’s government should ensure that prosecutors “investigate the role of the Gulf Clan in taking migrants and asylum seekers across the Darien Gap.” It also urged Colombia to increase state presence in the area and devote more resources to agencies that investigate attacks on migrants.

“Crimes against migrants and asylum seekers in the Darien Gap, including pervasive cases of sexual violence, go largely uninvestigated and unpunished on both sides of the border” the report said. “Accountability for these abuses is rare, due to a combination of limited resources and personnel ... and poor coordination between Colombian and Panamanian authorities.”

In February, Doctors Without Borders said that cases of sexual violence in the Darien were increasing at “exponential” levels, with 113 migrants treated for symptoms of sexual violence at two camps on the northern edge of the Darien Gap in a week’s span. The organization said in a news release it was “outraged with the level of impunity” with which criminal groups are operating within the region. Shortly after, MSF’s operations in Panama were suspended by that nation’s government.

In Wednesday’s report HRW urged Panama to allow MSF and other humanitarian groups to operate in the country without “undue restrictions.” It also accused the government of Panama of enacting policies that limit the movements of migrants.

Under a policy known as “controlled flow,” Panama allows migrants who cross the Darien jungle into its territory and hosts them briefly in two camps, where they can pay to board buses that take them straight to Costa Rica, the next country on the road to the U.S.

Human Rights Watch said in its report that Panamanian officials are preventing migrants who cannot pay for bus tickets from leaving the camps. The organization called on Panama to modify its controlled flow strategy and establish a plan that ensures the right of migrants who wish to stay in Panama to seek asylum, while enabling those who want to continue their journey to move freely within the nation.

Follow AP’s coverage of Latin America and the Caribbean at https://apnews.com/hub/latin-america

Human Rights Watch Report of the Darién Rejected

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Congresswoman Ramirez Statement on Visit to Panama, the Darién, and the Humanitarian Crisis of Displacement Confronting the Western Hemisphere

Washington, DC —Today, Congresswoman Delia C. Ramirez (IL-03), Vice Ranking Member of the Homeland Security Committee, released the following statement after a fact-finding visit to Panama, including the Darién, a 60-mile stretch between Panama and Colombia that displaced families and refugees are crossing in record numbers.    

“This week, I visited Panama to understand the humanitarian crisis unfolding as record numbers of displaced peoples from across the world risk dangerous travel through the Darién. Those I saw in the Darién —who, in their desperation and hope , persist through violence, illness, trauma, and extortion and continue on to our southern border—will soon arrive in Chicago, Denver, and New York, seeking opportunity, protection, and refuge. 

We are facing a global crisis of displacement. Families shared stories of generalized violence, civil war, human rights violations, organized crime, corruption, persecution, economic exclusion, and climate instability that drove them from their homes. Many had tried to set down roots once, twice, even three times in new countries before choosing to risk the Darién. They have nothing left to lose. 

The Darién, our southern border, and the migrant shelters in Chicago are all connected. We must look beyond security and enforcement strategies at our border and embrace a coordinated regional and global approach to address alarming increases in instability and displacement. All countries that have endorsed the Los Angeles Declaration on Migration and Protection must resource and prioritize its implementation to mobilize the region around a coordinated approach in the Americas. The conditions driving unprecedented migration were created by policy choices over the years, sometimes generations. So, our response must be equally persistent : the situation requires long-term solutions that maximize families’ choices and present various opportunities to resettle safely in our region.

We all have a role to play . Addressing the root causes of displacement requires deeper partnerships and collective commitments to develop local and regional economies, build infrastructure, support host countries, and ensure communities in Latin America and the globe are able to thrive. We must do the work together to cultivate stable democracies, safer communities, and powerful civil societies. 

It is possible 800,000 people will travel through the Darién this year. Our deterrence has not deterred them. Border security will not extinguish their hope or temper their desperation. Until we provide expanded humane legal pathways and safer migration routes, Darién IS a route . We must protect and expand the specialized life-saving care being provided to survivors of the Darién, especially to women and children, while also defending and protecting the aid workers and organizations doing this essential work from extreme right-wing attacks. 

For the thousands of children who have endured hell and trauma, it is more urgent than ever that the international community, including the United States, honor the agreements we made at the Geneva Convention and extend protections. Migration is a human right . We have pledged to care for refugees and those fleeing violence and agreed to never send them back to harm ways. 

For the security, stability, and peace of our region, including IL-03, we must honor and live up to our promises.”