patek philippe aquanaut travel time watch

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref 5164 Review

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time is a watch that combines elegance, simplicity, and practicality.

Sitting in the catalog with the other Patek collections, the Aquanaut is an ultra-sporty watch that stood out considerably. With a steel finish and a rubber strap, it was a decidedly more casual approach from the Genevan powerhouse. Add in a complication and the usually traditional Patek was competing against the big league when it comes to sports watches.

Here’s our review of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref 5164.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time: A Background

While Rolex is king when it comes to luxury watches amongst the regular public, Patek Philippe gained fame designing wristwatches for royalty. That esteemed position continued on to modern times where only the most seasoned watch collectors follow Patek very closely.

During the dot-com boom in the late 1990s, Patek Philippe saw the opportunity to grow their fan base. New millionaires were being made in droves and with all this increase in potential disposable income, Patek Philippe designed a steel sports watch to appeal to a younger audience – the Aquanaut.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref 5164A (photo: Patek Philippe)

Fifteen years after, in 2012, Patek released the Aquanaut Travel Time ref 5164A. The sporty look, combined with a cleverly displayed complication, really made the Aquanaut all its own. Wait lists grew exponentially with the desire to own a Patek sports watch.

Aquanaut Travel Time 5164/A

The first Patek Philippe Aquanaut released with a complication was ref 5164A in steel, introduced in 2011. The desire for dual-time watches is pretty high and Patek made it simple while honoring the casual luxury they started with the Aquanaut line.

Designed for those who travel or do business frequently with those in other time zones, the Aquanaut Travel Time is a fixture in the wearer’s daily tasks. It’s a Patek design that is supposed to be worn outside of those formal occasions and blend into the everyday world.

In 2016, Patek released an 18k rose gold edition of the Aquanaut Travel Time ref 5164R. Both of these case styles remain in the Patek catalog, even if the waitlist to get your hands on one is long.

Dial and Case

The dial of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref 5164 is an embossed black, much like earlier references with white gold Arabic numerals. Outside the numerals is a stark white minute track that stands out nicely against the black background. The embossed pattern of the dial ties directly in with the pattern of the bracelet.

The case itself is made from stainless steel, which means that it’s durable enough to withstand daily wear but light enough not to weigh down your wrist when you’re wearing it throughout the day. The combination of polished and satin-brushed finish is seen on the case, which is slightly rounded into a more octagonal shape rather than a round or square.

This case with a screw-down crown is water resistant for up to 120 meters. There’s no reason you can’t wear this eye-catching timepiece in the pool or on your beach vacation.

Despite its size, the 40.8mm case is shaped in a way that it sits smaller on most wrists. The shape and strap make it wear very comfortably.

Dual Time Zone

What makes the 5164A so coveted is the dual time zone complication and the clever way it is arranged on the dial. Apart from the central hour, minute, and seconds hands, there is a fourth hand and two apertures on the dial that indicate whether you are reading local or home time.

The hands are is easily differentiated with the starker hour and minute hands indicating your local time, and the skeletal hour hand underneath to indicate the home time.

You’ll find two apertures, one between 3 and 4 o’clock and the other between 8 and 9 o’clock that indicate day and night at each time zone with white meaning day and dark blue for night.

When you’re home, the hands can lay on top of each other, maintaining the simplicity of the dial face. With a single glance, you’ll can determine if it’s a good time to call home or if you should wait a few hours to diminish angry feelings from a 3 am wake up call.

A 6 o’clock there’s a tasteful dial that will show the current date at your local time.

Pushers and Date Corrector

It’s easy to change the local time by one-hour intervals with the pushers located on the left-hand side of the case. Unlike other more complicated dual time watches that use crown positions to set the new time zone, Patek designed for the upper pusher to advance the local hour hand forward an hour with one push, and the lower pusher backs it up an hour with a single push.

The pushers only advance the local time hand. The skeletal home hour hand remains unchanged when using the left-hand pushers. When traveling it’s as easy as using the lower pusher when heading west and the upper pusher when heading east.

Simplicity is key and Patek made sure to design this watch perfectly for its target audience. Much like the simple way to adjust the hour when traveling, it’s just as easy to change the date. A small button was included at 4 o’clock on the case band to correct the date.

This stunning timepiece is powered by the automatic movement calibre 324 S C FUS. This includes all the added features of the dual time complication indicating two time zones, the day and night indicators for both local and home time, and the local date.

You can see, through the case back, the 213 components and 29 jewels that ensure  absolute minimal friction. The watch beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a 45-hour power reserve.

Patek calls this particular strap “Tropical”. It’s made from a supple, composite rubber in a black similar to that of the embossed dial. As stated before, the embossed pattern of the dial and the embossed pattern of the strap are complimentary, finishing the design of the watch seamlessly. This design feature creates a sense of continuity and easily makes up for the lack of an integrated bracelet.

First developed for the ref 5060A, the strap is made from 20 different materials. It’s impervious to salt water, bacteria, and UV damage. It’s no wonder they call it “Tropical” when it’s definitely designed for fun in the sun and the water.

On the underside of the strap, you’ll find the Aquanaut double deployant clasp in steel marked distinctly with the brand’s Calatrava cross emblem. This trigger released clasp is not only convenient, but secure. You can’t accidentally trigger it, decreasing any falls when you’re putting it on or taking it off.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref 5164: Final Thoughts

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref 5164 is an excellent watch that will not only look great on your wrist, but also help you keep track of time while traveling. The strap ties the sporty-elegant aesthetic together, while providing comfortable wear for hours.

With the Aquanaut Travel Time’s ingenious design and robust craftsmanship, Patek Philippe proves once more that they’re the ultimate investment. Find the perfect Patek Philippe watch for your wrist at SwissWatchExpo.com . <>

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New Release: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R-001 Watch

After the resounding success of last year’s Aquanaut Luce models, with their blue-grey dial and rose gold cases, Patek Philippe is further expanding on the idea. The Luce watches from last year were among my favorite from the show, so seeing another is a welcome treat for me. This year, Patek is introducing the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R, a quartz-powered model with a novel travel-time function. 

The new solid rose-gold Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R offers a smaller profile than 40.8mm mechanical Aquanaut Travel Time models and in fact delivers the smallest Aquanaut case without gems. At 38.8mm in diameter, it’s not a small watch, hitting close to that 39mm that many hold as perfect. Thanks to the quartz movement, it measures just 8.77mm (about 1.5mm thinner than those mechanical models). Despite having a screw-down crown, water resistance is limited to 30m, perhaps the Achilles heel of the Aquanaut collection. While it seems like a sporty watch, it really doesn’t deliver go-anywhere durability. The watch gets a sapphire crystal and a solid rose gold case back with the signature fitted Aquanaut strap that echoes the dial pattern and has a patented rose gold folding clasp with four safety catches. All that means a watch that will sit undoubtedly well on the wrist — and stay there.

The dial is classic Aquanaut, with the opaline blue-grey of the previous Luce models (isn’t it beautiful?) and the globe-like embossed lines that recall longitude and latitude. Around the central patterned dial is a printed gold minute track with lumed square plots. The hands and applied Arabic numerals are crafted from the same rose gold as the case. Of particular note is the “HOME” text at 6 o’clock. Beneath it, you’ll see a small aperture that serves as a day/night indicator for the home time, indicated by the additional white hour hand. Unlike every other travel time watch offered by PP, all adjustments are done via the crown, with the second position allowing for setting the local time forward or backward in one-hour increments.  This is one of the cleaner Travel Time dials offered by the brand, most of which are cluttered with other indicators and displays (except, perhaps, for the Calatrava 24-hour watch from last year), and I’m here for it. If I could take it a step further, I’d get rid of the seconds hand, or at least render it in rose gold.

The Patek Philippe Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H is believed to be an entirely new quartz caliber for the brand, bringing simplified travel time functionality to the catalog in lieu of the extra pushers and correctors that most Patek travel times get. It probably comes as no surprise that Patty P doesn’t mess about with its quartz calibers. As is plain to see, you can barely tell this is a quartz movement. It’s got crisp striping, gold engraved text, and no plastic parts. The 96-component movement has 9 jewels and a 3-year battery life. Accuracy is quoted at +127/-18 seconds per year. Considering Citizen and others are producing quartz movements that operate in the 10s/year range, this is a little disappointing.

Undoubtedly, some will bemoan that this is a quartz model and not a refinement of the mechanical Aquanaut travel time. But I don’t think the appeal here can be denied: a compact, simple, luxurious travel watch with the indisputable accuracy of quartz and the high-end craftsmanship we expect from Patek Philippe. If anything, I would have preferred a display caseback. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R-001 is priced at $35,350 USD (about half the price of the rose gold mechanical Aquanaut Travel Time). For more information, please visit the Patek Philippe website .

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Recent searches, popular searches, remove from bag, patek philippe aquanaut, product filter, the nautilus’ more casual counterpart.

When a watch bears the “Patek Philippe” inscription on the dial, the mind can’t help but go to a few places: well-finished movements, timeless designs, maybe the trinity. It’s unlikely you’ll think of a crafted rubber strap, but that is precisely the Aquanaut’s claim to fame (well, the biggest one at least). The Aquanaut was introduced as a less expensive, more casual, and perhaps a more fun alternative to the Nautilus. It came delivered on a rubber strap, which was certainly a statement. “A rubber strap? For how much?” If there is a brand who can do such a stunt, it’s Patek Philippe. You are bound to find an Aquanaut to suit your fancy, from a time- only drab green, to a bright orange chronograph, to a black dual time-zone. Learn more about the collection when you browse our pre-owned assortment of versatile pieces.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut was introduced by Patek Philippe in 1997, and though Gerald Genta himself did not design the watch, its design is unmistakably inspired by his renowned Nautilus. This is mainly reflected in the porthole-styled case, though the Patek Philippe Aquanaut takes a departure from the Nautilus by having straight lugs that accept other straps. The notion of a luxury sports watch was indeed set into motion years prior, and the Aquanaut’s release in the late 90s only fueled the fire that was. If you’re interested in learning more about the collection’s fascinating history, read this blog article for a detailed overview.

While it is a stand-alone piece in its own right, it would be wrong to think the huge popularity of the Aquanaut is not at least slightly influenced by the red-hot Nautilus. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is the marginally easier steel Patek Philippe to get at the moment. But beyond that, the Aquanaut is a very compelling package. The classic design and water resistance allows the piece to be appropriate in any occasion,(aided by the ability to switch from the rubber strap to a metal bracelet. Plus, it’s coming out of one of the most highly respected watch companies in the world—(implications of stored value and name cache).

As alluded to earlier, the demand for the Patek Philippe Aquanaut line has skyrocketed in the past few years, which is likely what has made the watch so expensive. It is one of the most in-demand pieces, and as a result, it has become increasingly difficult to find in an authorized dealer. So, going with a pre-owned Aquanaut is a solid option mainly because they are available to purchase. If you are in the market for an Aquanaut, Watchbox’s global inventory is the best place to start your search.

Boasting a range of references that have been impressing collectors for over two decades, the Aquanaut is available in a chronograph as well as a Travel Time piece that features a second time zone. Enthusiasts can also find some of the brand’s most coveted calibers beating away in these beautiful watches, including the CH 28-520 and 324 S C FUS. If you’re interested in purchasing a pre-owned Aquanaut, consider your functionality and style preferences before creating a budget as demand for specific models does affect the price. Currently, our inventory ranges from $57,950 to $154,950. Learn more about a selection of the most compelling pieces in the suite.

By far, one of the most iconic iterations of the Aquanaut is the 5167A introduced in 2007. It was released as a 10th anniversary upgrade to the collection, and improvements included a less crowded dial, an elevated “geosphere” guilloche pattern on the dial base, a date that moves outboard to supplant the 3, and a new “tropical” strap with added texture. Learn more about the piece’s characteristics and design when you read this expert review of the “‘Speedster’ Sports Watch,” or check out this pre-owned ref. 5167A-001 —another fascinating model with a black embossed dial. Lastly, watch this up-close comparison of the 5167A-001 and the 5711/1A-010 to see other nuances in action.

In 2011, the world of watch collectors witnessed the release of the incredible Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A. It’s a casual sports watch that features a second time zone, the impressive caliber 324 S C FUS, and a robust 45-hour power reserve. Learn more about what makes this watch tick when you read this article, “Prime Time: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time.” And, be sure to check out this pre-owned ref. 5164A-001 equipped with a 40.8mm stainless steel case and embossed black dial.

Joining the ranks of the Aquanauts’ nearly new chronograph suite, the ref. 5968G in white gold is available in two eye-catching colors: khaki and gradient blue. Both of these combinations make for a striking dial and strap duo, expanding on the collection’s previous stainless steel offering of black and orange rubber straps. For movement enthusiasts, this reference is powered by the caliber 28-520C/528 which flaunts a flyback functionality. On a final note of interest, this is the first Aquanaut Chronograph available in a precious metal.

Aquanaut Pricing Guide

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The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case

Patek’s bold 4-crown watch now rendered mostly in rose gold, and objectively better than ever before..

While pilot-style watches have now found a comfortable niche within the modern Patek Philippe catalogue, the introduction of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in 2015 sparked more than just curiosity: it stirred a veritable commotion. Many were taken aback, feeling it was a departure from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. The design, markedly different from the timeless offerings of the Calatrava series , challenged long-standing expectations. The controversy persisted despite explanations about drawing inspiration from Patek Philippe’s history of producing “hour-angle” or siderometer pilot’s watches for the military in the 1930s.

However, the reference 5524 quickly became a resounding success for Patek Philippe. The medium-size (37.5mm) Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R was presented in 2018, followed by a white gold version in 2020 . Importantly, in 2019, Patek unveiled the Alarm Travel Time 5520P . Although the “Pilot” moniker was officially dropped, the series’ essence persisted. This timepiece retained the distinctive design and functionality of the 5524 while introducing an additional complication: a 24-hour alarm mechanism with a digital display of the alarm time, accompanied by a hefty price tag well above 200k euros. Last year, Patek also released a duo of Pilot Travel Time Chronographs under the reference 5924G .

A warmer, softer rose gold look

Fast-forward to today and Patek introduces the latest iteration of the 5520, presented in a rose gold case with a warm grey dial. In a departure from its earlier platinum case and black dial counterpart, this rendition exudes a softer, less “aggressive” aesthetic, and the 5520RG has been met with a notably warmer reception from the horological community.

The 5520RG case is almost entirely crafted from rose gold. Despite housing a multitude of functions within a self-winding movement, it maintains a diameter of 42.2mm and a relatively slim profile of 11.6mm. While its 30m water resistance may not break records, it distinguishes the 5520 series as the only one among Patek Philippe’s chiming watches to offer any water resistance at all.

The polarizing 4-crown style

The four prominent and highly discussed pushers (giving this watch a very distinctive and polarising look) feature tubes made from white gold, earning this reference a “two-tone” designation by the brand. The watch we experienced has a sapphire crystal caseback, and PP offers a solid gold option, too – both are interchangeable and included with the watch.

When it comes to wearing comfort, the Alarm Travel Time is an enjoyable piece to grace the wrist. Its quite slim profile contributes to a pleasant wearing experience. The crown at 4 o’clock and pushers at 2, 8, and 10 o’clock, though visually prominent, don’t create too much discomfort or pressure on the wrist. This 5520RG has a clear sporty-chic appearance; the elegance to a great deal can be attributed to the choice of case material and dial presentation.

A redefined, two-tone dial

The 5520RG’s grey dial features a captivating sunburst finish, accentuated by a contrasting charcoal grey minutes track and a matching date ring on the sub-dial positioned at 6 o’clock. This darker hue extends to the outline of the large applied luminescent Arabic numerals and the primary time hands. The sword-shaped local time hour and minutes hands boast a charcoal hue with luminescent coating, while the home time hour hand is charcoal and skeletonized, lacking luminescence. The central seconds hand and the date pointer at 6 o’clock are coloured white.

Compared to the original platinum version , this new rose gold 5520RG also comes with subtle updates on the dial. First, the minutes railroad track has been enlarged and now features numerals for the tenths. Due to this, the applied Arabic numerals have been repositioned and due to closer proximity with the bell-shaped alarm indicator and the date sub-dial, some of them have been cut… like it or not.  

Positioned below the 12 o’clock index, the alarm time window is framed by a rectangular rose-gilt design divided into two sections. The upper portion displays double-digit hours (ranging from 01 to 12), while the lower section indicates minutes in 15-minute intervals (00-15-30-45). A small bell-shaped aperture sits above, serving as the alarm activation/deactivation indicator, while a round indicator below denotes whether it’s day or night for the alarm. Additionally, two round apertures for day/night indication are clearly marked for local and home time.

Operating the 5520RG

Handling this Grand Complication timepiece (this is how PP categorizes this watch, even though it isn’t strictly speaking a grande complication) is logical, intuitive, and virtually foolproof; understanding its operation becomes straightforward. Once you discern which hand corresponds to local or home time, the markings on the pushers provide clear guidance for proper handling. Moreover, the safety locks prevent accidental settings, adding an extra layer of reassurance.

The pusher, positioned at 2 o’clock and featuring a bell icon, activates or deactivates the alarm. The three-position crown, situated at 4 o’clock and adorned with the PP seal, offers versatile functionality. When pushed in and turned clockwise, it winds the alarm mechanism; turning counter-clockwise winds the movement, with just ten rotations providing ample power.

Pulling out the crown to position one facilitates the bidirectional setting of the alarm time in 15-minute increments. Pulling out to the second position enables a time setting, complete with a stop-second function. On the left side of the case, the pushers allow for adjustment of local time in one-hour increments, forwards (marked by a plus sign) or backwards (marked by a minus sign). This feature proves invaluable when traversing time zones, ensuring seamless adjustments to match the desired hour. The day/night indicators offer additional clarity to avoid confusion during these adjustments.

Lastly, synchronized with the local hand, the date can be corrected using a designated corrector discreetly positioned on the case band near the lower left lug.

When the time comes for the alarm to sound, with its 30-second precision, the mechanism springs into action. A classic gong is struck by a hammer for approximately 35 seconds, producing a musical chime that resonates. Should the owner wish to silence it prematurely, a simple press of the pusher at 2 o’clock will do the trick. Alternatively, if one prefers to let the alarm run its entire course, allowing it to continue until the end of the cycle, it will automatically switch into off mode. This transition is signalled by the bell-shaped indicator turning dark, indicating that the alarm has completed its process.

In-house mechanics

The new Patek Philippe 5520RG proudly boasts the same AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre as its predecessor. Since we extensively covered its praises during the 5520P launch, let’s forgo the accolades now. However, it’s noteworthy that this movement maintains the highest standards of finishing and precision. It operates with remarkable accuracy, ranging from -3 to +2 seconds per day, and boasts a power reserve lasting between 42 to 52 hours.

Availability & Price

The chestnut calfskin strap with vintage finish complements the 5520RG, with the rose gold clevis prong buckle for closure. The price is EUR 257,100 , which is on the level, considering the “Grand Complication” status of the Alarm Travel Time 5520 series. The 5520 quickly transitioned from being the controversial and polarizing timepiece to a hot collector’s item, and it won’t be long before it gets an iconic status, for it is recognizable, quintessential and sets an example for others to follow. If they dare and can.

For more, visit patek.com .

Technical specifications – Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG

4 responses.

The 9 year old steam punk sea bottom explorer weirdly likes this new (sort of) elegance.

Ups its elegance? This is the opposite of elegant.

The perfect watch to take to the summer olympics and get it wet in the hot tub or pickpocketed at the bistro.

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A Guide to: the World Time Complication

As the name suggests, a World Time watch allows the wearer to read the time in the world’s 24 major time zones. But what else do we know about this incredible watch complication?

As the name suggests, a World Time watch allows the wearer to read the time in the world’s 24 major time zones.

Who invented it?

It was invented by independent watchmaker Louis Cottier in 1931.

How does the World Time complication work?

The watch’s hour and minute hand are coordinated with an outer chapter ring displaying the names of 24 reference cities for each time zone. A pusher, or button, on the case enables the wearer to move the chapter ring one city at a time. The hour hand automatically jumps an hour ahead or behind to the time in the reference city (in other words, your local time). A rotating 24-hour inner chapter ring turns once a day, showing the time in the other cities on the dial.

To tell the time in another city, line up the watch’s hour hand with the reference city that corresponds with your local time using the rotating bezel. For example, if you are in London and it is 11pm, align ‘London’ with 11 on your watch face. To find out what the time is in Moscow, swap to the 24-hour dial and read the time that aligns with Moscow, which would be 1am. At the same time, you can tell the time in all the other cities. The time difference between local time and all other cities is measured in hours only, since the minutes stay the same.

Cottier’s mechanism for reading multiple time zones was not successful, but it would inspire his son, Louis – a double Patek Philippe prize winner before he’d even completed his apprenticeship – to develop his ‘heures universelles’ in 1931. The complication featured the local time with hour and minute hands at the centre and a rotating 24-hour ring bordered by the names of different cities or places. It was originally designed for pocket watches, but, in 1937, with these timepieces becoming less popular, Patek Philippe commissioned Cottier to produce the first World Time wristwatch. He would go on to supply them to many other prestige brands, including Rolex and Vacheron Constantin .

Cottier’s mechanism is still used today as the base for most World Time watches, though they have become more elaborate in design over the years. Patek Philippe is particularly known for its extraordinarily beautiful cloisonné enamel maps and dials that feature mythical creatures and symbols.

A World Time watch can tell you a lot about the geopolitics of the time in which it was made thanks to the choice of major cities displayed around the dial. The most recent change came at Baselworld 2016, when Patek Philippe unveiled its new ref. 5230 with a World Timer to reflect a number of shifts, including the fact that Dubai has replaced Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, as the internationally-recognised representative city of its time zone.

Famous fans

These highly-attractive timepieces are celebrated by collectors and enthusiasts as much for their elegant design as their instant access to multiple time zones. It’s no surprise, then, that tennis ace and frequent flier Novak Djokovic is a fan of the World Time watch. American comedian Kevin Hart, meanwhile, has been spotted wearing Patek Philippe’s World Time ref. 5230R-001 in stunning rose gold.

A slight problem

In a world of smartphones and instant information, one may think a complex, and expensive, watch complication has had its day. But, with it beauty and easily readable mechanism, the World Time watch remains just as relevant as it ever was. The only slight problem is that there are now more than 24 time zones (37 in total) and not all of them are a full hour apart  ̶  for example, India is GMT+5.5 hours, so it can have its drawbacks. Some brands, such as Vacheron Constantin, have tried to improve on the original design by implementing all possible time zones, so if you are a regular traveller to India, there is a solution.

One other thing to be aware of is daylight savings time cannot be calculated using a World Time watch bezel so the wearer will have to take this into account.

Some of our favourites

To honour the originators of the World Time, here are a few of our Patek Philippe favourites:

Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5930G – by combining the calibers found in the 5990 and 5130 movements, Patek Philippe created the world’s smallest and thinnest world-timer-chronograph on the market. Launched in 2016, its ‘winglet’ style lugs will please any vintage collector, but the electric blue dial, as well as innovations such as the flyback chronograph, brings the model nicely into the modern age.

Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5575G – this 1,300-piece limited edition model was released to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 175 th anniversary in 2014 with World Time and moonphase complications. This is the first time Patek Philippe combined the World Time and moonphase function, dubbed the ‘World Time Moon’. The dial is made up of two peripheral rotating scales, the outer denoting the respective city, while the inner scale denotes the 24 time zones.

Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5230 – released to accommodate new time zone designations (for example, Moscow shifting one hour closer to Western Europe) this model is currently available in white or rose gold. A smart, modern timepiece with a simple, smooth case and beautiful guilloche dial that still manages to pack a lot of information in – 24 time zones to be exact.

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Patek Philippe | New Watches 2024

Posted on 29 april 2024.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4, Purple Sunburst Dial Ref 4910-1201R-010

Patek Philippe Complications, World Time Watch, Ref 5330G-001

Patek Philippe Grand Complications, In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref 5236P-010

Patek Philippe Complications, Annual Calendar, Moon Phases Ref 5396G-017

Patek Philippe presents a fresh interpretation of its renowned men's Annual Calendar Reference 5396, now available in a sophisticated white gold rendition. The timepiece showcases a captivating sunburst blue dial with a black-gradient rim, subtly accentuated by the shimmering allure of twelve baguette diamond hour-markers (0.26 ct). Echoing the dial's hue, a sleek navy-blue alligator leather strap completes the ensemble.

Powered by the self-winding 26-330 S QA LU 24H caliber, the watch boasts a double day/month aperture positioned at 12 o'clock, a date aperture at 6 o'clock, and a 24-hour subdial featuring an integrated moon-phase display. Designed for convenience, this caliber accurately indicates the date for 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one manual adjustment annually at the end of February.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5980-60G-001

Introducing the latest iteration of the Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph, now available in a striking white gold variant featuring an opulent opaline blue-grey dial. This refined hue finds harmony with the blue-grey denim-patterned calfskin strap, secured by a white gold Nautilus fold-over clasp. For versatility, the timepiece is accompanied by an additional strap crafted from blue-grey composite material with a fabric pattern.

The case and bezel exhibit a captivating interplay of polished and satin finishes, adding depth to its aesthetic appeal. Notably, the chronograph indications are ingeniously displayed within a large and easily legible 6 o'clock monocounter, adorned with three concentric scales. Furthermore, the central chronograph seconds hand serves dual functionality, also serving as a running seconds display, enhancing the timepiece's functionality and allure.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Time Travel, Ref 5164G-001

Introducing the inaugural white gold rendition of the Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164, a modern, refined, and versatile timepiece ideal for travel and leisure. Its opaline blue-grey dial, embellished with the iconic Aquanaut pattern, exudes sophistication. The integrated composite strap, meticulously crafted to match the dial's hue, boasts a patented white gold fold-over clasp, ensuring both style and security.

At its heart lies the self-winding 26-330 S C FUS caliber, featuring a Travel Time display that seamlessly combines exceptional legibility with intuitive functionality. Notably, the date is synchronised with local time, enhancing convenience for the discerning traveller.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Time Travel, Ref 5269R-001 

Introducing the latest addition to its line-up, Patek Philippe unveils the Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269, now available in a sophisticated rose gold variant sans gem-setting, showcasing a refined colour palette. The opulent opaline blue-grey dial finds harmony with the integrated strap crafted from matching composite material, secured by the renowned patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, equipped with four independent safety catches for optimal security.

Powered by an exclusive quartz caliber, this travel watch epitomises "contemporary casual chic" style, distinguished by its Travel Time display featuring a practical and discreet crown-operated setting system. Notably, the case is enhanced by a captivating interplay of contrasting polished and satin finishes, adding depth to its allure.

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Perpetual Calendar . This new patek philippe aquanaut is designed in a 39mm rose gold case, and styled on a blue rubber strap. The retrograde perpetual calendar rare handcrafts reference 5160/500 is reinterpreted in a new rose gold version with a silvery opaline dial.

The 5940 was a nice surprise within the mix, featuring a welcomed perpetual calendar addition to the historic 240 caliber, a movement first introduced in 1977 that. Never before has the manufacture introduced a wristwatch that displays the day, the date, and the month on a single line as exemplified by the new.

The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts Reference 5160/500 Is Reinterpreted In A New Rose Gold Version With A Silvery Opaline Dial.

Putting the two complications in one watch was a complex process that required them to interact in unison.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar With Pointer Date.

2023/2024 unworn blue dial perpetual calendar moonphase grand complications 5236p.

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Is Available In A Number Of Editions And At Different Price Points.

Images references :, the date is tied to the..

Patek philippe perpetual calendar with pointer date.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar From Rs.5,225,817 Chrono24 Buyer Protection Worldwide Shipping Instant Availability Personal Consulting Skip Over 400,000 Watches.

The retrograde perpetual calendar rare handcrafts reference 5160/500 is reinterpreted in a new rose gold version with a silvery opaline dial.

Older Models From The 1990S And Early 2000S Generally Serve As The Entry Point Into This Section Of The Patek Philippe.

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Luxury Watch Prices Dropping – Everything you Need to Know

Starting from around February and March of 2022, we started to see declines, to even faster drops in the prices of certain luxury watches on the secondhand market. And it’s important to say certain because the majority of watches on the secondhand market remain virtually unaffected or have dropped only minimally, whilst other models have dropped more substantial amounts.

So why are luxury watch prices dropping? And how much are the prices of luxury watches dropping? Let’s get to the bottom of everything you need to know.

Some luxury watch brands have dropped in value more than others

Some luxury watches dropped as much as 15-30% of their value from the peak, which in hindsight can be said was right around January-February of 2022. This is when the watch market was soaring and the prices for the most sought-after luxury watches continued to increase in value, often by substantial amounts week-after-week, and had done so for at least the last 6 months, albeit with more reasonable price increases prior to this. 

It’s important to have a broader perspective than just a few months when we talk about assets and their values. Luxury watches, in general, were increasing more than they had ever done before in an unreasonably short period of time. This of course cannot be said for all watches but in particular from the most sought-after brands, and specifically the most sought-after models. But to some extent, the “hype” was contagious and affected the prices of other brands and models as well, although to different extents. The brands that increased the most in value were Patek Philippe , Audemars Piguet , Rolex , and Vacheron Constantin , followed by other brands such as F.P. Journe , Richard Mille , Cartier , and others.

Why are luxury watch prices dropping?

Naturally, there are many factors that ultimately led to the price of some luxury watches losing much of their value, some more than others.

A common saying is that Everything that goes up must come down, and although luxury watches are viewed as some of the most stable and safest investments there are, they are not immune to declines. At the same time, declines in the value of luxury watches have been rare in the last couple of years. From a broader perspective, it seems as if luxury watches can only go up in price. But of course, anyone who understands fundamental economic theories knows that cannot be true.

Global factors also affect the watch market

The watch market is certainly not immune to external market factors. The watch market is, like all other markets, affected by the financial market and its state.

Ultimately, the global economy will always affect consumer goods. This is particularly true for goods that are non-necessities such as jewelry and watches. And entering 2022, the bull market is considered to be coming to an end and we are now moving into a bear market . Furthermore, a number of economic decisions and events that affect the global economy take place, and are planned to take place moving forward. One of the most critical components of this is naturally the interest rates that are planned by the Federal Reserve as well as most central banks around the world.

Economic fear of a recession

The most important cause for the watch market decline ultimately has to do with fear. Everything is pointing towards the fact that we are moving towards an economic downturn. Some suggest a recession, but only time will tell. With that said, we have an uncertain future ahead. And every time this happens, people tend to become more reserved and careful with their spending. They tend to delay big financial decisions and think twice before they make a high-value purchase, like a luxury watch.

When enough people think this way, it will ultimately lead to fewer customers. And according to the basic market principles, when the demand decreases, so must the prices. Prior to the watch price drop, the demand was surging and people were buying watches left to right. The demand and willingness to buy watches still exist, but more and more people ultimately delay their purchases to see if the prices will decrease further, or just wait and see what happens to the economy as a whole.

Inflation is a big deal and has been a hot topic at the end of 2021 and the beginning of 2021. Inflation remains high during the first and second quarters of 2022 and when inflation is high, it negatively affects people’s ability to consume. Every day items become more expensive and people get less money left after all necessary expenses have been taken care of such as food, housing, etc. When inflation increases, all of these basic necessities become more expensive and therefore, people have less money to spend on things they want but do not necessarily need, like watches or other luxury items.

Unstable economy

An uncertain future is a great threat to the economy. The stock market is often looked at in terms of fear vs greed, and it’s safe to say that in 2022, we are in a fear-driven economy. As discussed earlier, this tends to make people more careful and reserved in regard to their spending. And therefore, people will often delay big financial decisions like buying a house or, in this case, an expensive luxury watch.

• The war in Ukraine

The war in Ukraine is another driving factor that increases uncertainty and contributes to a more unstable economy and world. And ultimately, this spills over to the watch industry.

The fact is that the war is not only tied to Ukraine or Russia. It is affecting everyone globally to a smaller or larger extent. In Europe, households see rising costs of gas and food as a result of the halted gas export from Russia as well as the difficulty of exporting grain from Ukraine. 

Moreover, with increased tension in the world also comes a greater uncertainty which negatively affects the global economy.

Watch market price drop summarized

Summarized, we can say that there are numerous factors that come together to make the watch market prices decline. Not only for watches but for many other industries as well, including the housing market. These factors can be summarized with:

• Increased Covid-19 Restrictions and lockdowns in China (Asia is a huge market for luxury watch sales, including the secondhand market)
• Rising inflation
• Increased interest rates and planned future interest rates
• Uncertainty in the global economy
• Big declines in the stock market (goes hand-in-hand with the watch market) but ultimately, it will make people feel “poorer” and thus consume less
• Fear of recession

The market will (almost) always correct unreasonable price increases

Looking at it from a broader perspective, the watch market can be compared with the stock market.

Following the stock market “crash” after Covid-19, the stock market quickly rose and shot through the roof. At times, it seemed as if the stock market could promise eternal growth. But at the end of 2021 and beginning of 2022, things started to turn the other way and we saw rapid declines in the stock market, naturally affected by numerous factors. Two of which were increased interest rates as well as growing inflation.

Anyone will be able to draw the conclusion that the rapid, almost skyrocketing prices of watches, as we saw in 2021 are not sustainable. If the watches would continue with the same trend of rapid growth, we would see essentially doubled prices of already high prices in 2023. But eventually, after such rapid value increases, there just aren’t any buyers left.

Now, only the market can decide what is “unreasonable” and what is “reasonable”. But what we can say is that the rapid price increase on watches in 2021 and the beginning of 2022 has not been reasonable. Therefore, all assets and items that increase that much and that rapidly have a great risk of eventually going down in value. And that is exactly what has now happened.

Are watches still great investments?

Yes, we would definitely say so. The “issue” is that the watch market has not had a major dip for a long time, which has caused people to believe that luxury watches can never go down in value. But like all assets, they certainly can, which has been proven following the 2022 decrease in watch prices.

But investments need to be looked at from a longer perspective than just one or two years. The stock market, in comparison, has its ups and downs, but if you look at it from a 10 or even 20-year perspective, the trend is still upwards. The same can be said about the luxury watch market . If you draw a straight line in watch prices and ignore the lows and highs, you’ll get a more reasonable trend of how the value trend for luxury watches should be in a sound and stable market. In other words, stable, reasonable, and consistent value increases without any dramatic spikes. The exact same is applicable to the stock market.

The price drop of luxury watches has not affected all watches equally

The watches that have seen the largest declines in value are the watches that have also increased the most from after the Covid-crash up until the watch market crash. Interestingly, a similar parallel can be drawn to the stock market. Those stocks that have gone up the most in the shortest time also tend to be the ones that fall the most. After all, they have the most drop height. Moreover, when some stocks tend to sore without any real news or positive financial reports, their valuation goes from logical to purely emotional, to fear of missing out, and speculation. When you go from a logical and financial valuation to speculation, that’s also when it can get dangerous quickly.

Because the major dips in the values of luxury watches can only be attributed to (relatively speaking) just a few models, it would be incorrect to call it a crash. Using the term “correct” or “dip” would therefore be better suitable.

As mentioned, the most dramatic price drops in luxury watches have happened to the most “hyped” watches with the most “inflated” prices. Or at the very least, for the watches that have increased dramatically in price in the year prior to the “dip”. The watches that dropped the most are:

• Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks
• Patek Philippe Nautilus
• Patek Philippe Aquanaut
• Rolex Daytona
• Rolex Day-Date
• Rolex GMT-Master II (in particular in gold)

Generally speaking, the price drop has affected modern watches much more than it has vintage ones. When we are talking about watches that are still in production, that makes sense. Ultimately, there will be more and more of these watches as the production continues. But for vintage watches, there will never be more of these watches made. As such, they will only get rarer and rarer. On the same token, vintage watches have, in general, not increased as much in value as more modern timepieces, although there are some exceptions.

And it’s also important to distinguish between price increases and skyrocketing price increases because it’s obviously more sustainable in the long-term for minor, stable value increases than rapid skyrocketing prices.

For some perspective, let’s look at a few models that didn’t increase in value a lot during the craziest price increases, and their prices after the “crash”.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 79030 is a good example of this. Prior to the most dramatic price increases in 2021, the Tudor 58 was selling for around retail price (usually slightly more, but not substantial). In 2022, after the most dramatic decline in price, the watch was selling for essentially the same as it did in 2020 and in 2021. In other words, because the watch didn’t really have a “hype” premium” or a dramatic price increase, the market deemed its price correct. As a result, its value did not crash.

The same can, as a matter of fact, be said about most luxury watches on the market where this is applicable.

These watches are all selling for roughly the same as they were prior to the drop in price. In other words, they’re essentially unaffected. Now, that doesn’t mean that it is impossible that they will decrease in the future, but it means that they are more resistant to rapid price decreases than those whose prices are driven to a large extent by hype and speculation. 

In addition, not all watches have declined in value. Some watches have actually increased in value during this time, such as the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 coral red, yellow, or “ tiffany ” following the announcement that they were discontinued in April. As such, some have increased in value, some have decreased slightly or dramatically, but most have actually remained essentially the same.

The Audemars Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712 is one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe watches that the brand makes. It is also one of the watches that has been most affected by the price decline, as you can see in the graph below. From its peak at around €216.000 in February, it went to €176.900 in June which is a rather quite rapid decline in value of almost 20%.

A similar trend can be seen in another of the most hyped watches, the Rolex Platinum Daytona 116506. This is another watch that also saw a rapid decline in value following February 2021. The price for a non-baguette dial version went from around €204.000 at its peak in March to €117.500 in June 2022, representing roughly a 42% decline!

For some perspective, we can take a look at a less hyped watch, the Tudor 58 79030N, as discussed earlier. As you can see in this graph, this watch is virtually unaffected by the price decline of the most hyped watches. And the reason can only be attributed to the fact that it never had a rapid price increase and did not have “hype” that inflated its price:

The bottom line is that it is crucial to understand that the price drop has primarily affected the most hyped watches that have increased the most in value during 2020 and 2021. And the watches that have increased the most during this time seem to be the watches that have taken the biggest hit (surprise!). Different watches have been affected differently. Some have dropped in value as much as 30 or in some cases, even 40%, whilst others have only been affected marginally, if at all.

Has the luxury watch market crashed completely?

No, absolutely not. The luxury watch market is stronger than ever and the demand is continuing to be extremely high. All the sought-after models still have year-long waiting lists from the official retailers and still command great premiums on the secondhand market. Yes, the demand for luxury watches will decrease in the case of an economic downturn, but the demand is still far greater than the supply for the most sought-after watches and that will be the case for a long time ahead, recession or not.

With that said, the most hyped watches are still selling at a hefty premium over the retail price, even after the price decline. And most likely, they will also continue to do so for a long time due to their scarce availability.

And as mentioned, the value decreases we have seen on some luxury watches apply to only a small portion of all the models and watch brands within the luxury watch market. As discussed, the watches that haven’t increased dramatically in price have not decreased anything, or only by very little in price.

And these watches stand for the majority of all the watches in the luxury watch market. So when people scream in fear and say that the watch market has completely crashed, it is just not true.

Looking at the watch price decline from a larger perspective

At most, some watches have declined 15 to 30% in value after the price decline. On some occasions, the values have decreased by 35-40%. 

And yes, that is a lot for any price decline, be it stocks or watches. But if we zoom out and have some perspective, we can conclude that the watches that have dropped the most in value are essentially back where they were 6-12 months ago. Yes, if you bought a watch at the very peak, it can feel frustrating to know that your watch is now worth considerably less than you paid for it. But there’s nothing that says that it cannot go back to the value it once was. In fact, everything suggests that watches will continue to increase in value like they always have done historically. But the reasonable thing would be if they increase at a slower, less dramatic pace as they did in 2021 and the beginning of 2022.

If you see it from this perspective that only about 6 months of price increases have been wiped out for some models, it doesn’t sound that serious at all. And that is because it is not. The luxury watches are still up in value considerably if we look at it from a 12-month perspective. And from a financial and investment standpoint, 12 months is actually not that long at all. One could say that the decline is just a correction of a previously unsustainable price increase. It’s just that few people complain about it when something goes up in value. More people complain about it when they go down in value and they lose money.

Tags: Watch market crash, watch market crashing, Price drop watch market, Watch market bubble burst, Luxury watch prices falling, Rolex price drop, Rolex price drop 2022

2 thoughts on “ luxury watch prices dropping – everything you need to know ”.

The only watch I desire is the very rare AP Royal Oak with the salmon dial and leather strap from the 1990’s. It’s beautiful and understated and amazing. Cannot find one.

That is indeed a very stunning watch!

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Introduction

5968a - aquanaut self-winding.

The sporty and very contemporary Aquanaut collection welcomes its first chronograph – a complication that perfectly matches the character of this youthful and dynamic timepiece line. Endowed with a self-winding flyback chronograph movement, the Reference 5968 also stands out with remarkable aesthetic appeal, typified by orange chronograph displays contrasting against the black dial. It comes with two straps: one orange, one black, in an ultra-resistant composite material.

Other versions

CH 28-520 C/528 Self-winding

Flyback chronograph. Central chronograph hand. 60-minute counter. Date in an aperture. Diameter : 30 mm. Thickness : 6.63 mm. Number of parts : 308. Bridges : 14. Jewels : 32. Power reserve : min. 45 hours - max. 55 hours. Winding rotor : 21K gold central rotor. Balance : Gyromax ® . Vibrations/hour : 28 800 (4 Hz). Balance spring : Spiromax ® . Hallmark : Patek Philippe Seal.

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Hands-On The Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar Shines Bright

Patek's annual calendar calatrava gets the full baguette treatment..

This year at Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe introduced the white gold 5396G Annual Calendar, which adds a gradient blue dial and diamond baguette indices to the existing collection. 

The 5396G is still a 5396, with a white gold case measuring 38.5 by 11.2mm and water resistant to 30 meters. Patek's caliber 26‑330 S QA LU 24H is visible through a sapphire caseback and powers the annual calendar, moonphase, and a center sweep seconds hand. The day and month sit in-line below 12 o'clock, while the date is cut out of the subdial at 6 o'clock.

The sunburst blue dial has a gradient that transitions to black by the minute track. The combination of the sunburst effect and smooth gradient has a subtle effect that keeps the dial more interesting than a typical flat treatment otherwise might. Sharp dauphine hands and a sweeping seconds finish off the look. The 5396G is delivered on a matching shiny blue alligator strap with a deployant clasp.

The Patek 5396G Annual Calendar has an MSRP of $63,510 – for reference, it's $6,000 more than the existing 5396R that remains in the catalog. 

Taking a step back for a moment, the Patek 5396 Annual Calendar was introduced way back 2006 as the first annual annual calendar in a Calatrava-style case; remember, the first Patek annual calendar was only introduced a decade earlier . Patek last updated the 5396 lineup in 2016 on the 20th anniversary of the complication. Now, the reference gets its most dressed-up treatment yet.

Patek has used the blue gradient dial and baguette indices combinations a few times now; I particularly appreciate it in the 5170P, Patek's first chronograph with an in-house caliber. Using the combination for its long-running annual calendar reference feels like a fitting tribute to the 5396. Doing it in platinum would've been a real statement, but perhaps platinum should stay (mostly) reserved for a higher comp like this year's 5236P .

Is the 5396 worthy of the baguette treatment? I dunno, but whenever I think of the reference I remember John Mayer waxing poetically about the limited-edition 5396G for Tiffany & Co. with a black dial and Breguet numerals. That watch was limited and more special than this version, but if the 5396 was good enough for Mayer and Tiffany & Co., surely it's befitting of baguette indices.

More broadly, baguette indices are one of my preferred modes of putting diamonds on a dial. It feels a bit more subdued than many other takes on diamond setting, as much as a bunch of diamonds can ever really be subdued. But it works well in Rexhep Rexhepi's Rubis or Diamont, and it looks to succeed here, too. Combined with the typical gradient blue dial, it makes for a compelling addition to Patek's annual calendar lineup.

Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Annual Calendar Reference Number: 5396G

Diameter: 38.5mm Thickness: 11.2mm Case Material: White Dial Color: Gradient blue Indexes: Baguette indices Lume: No Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator with fold-over clasp

Caliber: Patek caliber 26‑330 S QA LU 24H Functions: Annual calendar, moonphase, sweep seconds Diameter: 33.3mm Thickness: 5.8mm Power Reserve: 35 hours Winding: automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 45

MSRP : $63,510

For more, check out the 5396G Annual Calendar on Patek's site . 

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