isles of scilly travel reviews

Isles of Scilly: The Complete Guide

• A Brief History
• The Inhabited Islands
• Things to Do

How to Get There

Getting around.

The Isles of Scilly, about 30 miles off the coast of Cornwall, are about the same distance from the English mainland as Nantucket is from Cape Cod. They also share an underlying Atlantic ambiance—from the color of the light and the gritty white sand beaches to the local flora—waves of salt grasses, ripening rose hips, and blackberry bushes heavy with fruit.

But there the similarity ends. This remote, low-lying archipelago—the southwesternmost outpost of the United Kingdom—seems a world apart. High granite towers, probably dropped by the receding ice at the end of the last Ice Age, give the island silhouettes wild magic that belies the gentle realities. Shallow waters turn seas as clear and turquoise as the Caribbean. And the Gulf Stream keeps the climate mild enough to support palm trees and subtropical plants year-round.

The population is only about 2,000, with 1,600 residing on the main island of St. Mary's and 400 scattered across the four remaining populated islands: Tresco, St Martin's, Bryher and St. Agnes. They're engaged in fishing, farming, and the tourism industry; they grow narcissus and daffodil bulbs; they're artists, artisans and entrepreneurs, and often a combination of all of these.

A Brief History of the Isles of Scilly

This little group of islands is part of the Duchy of Cornwall, the estates that produce a Royal income for Prince Charles, who, in addition to being the Prince of Wales is also the Duke of Cornwall.

It's likely that as long as 4,000 years ago, the islands were one landmass populated by the tribes of Britons (ancient Brythonic people) who also settled across Cornwall and Brittany. Various Bronze Age monuments that these people left behind are scattered across the islands.

The next group who left traces were the Tudors. The Isles of Scilly were considered the gateway to the English Channel and vulnerable to invasion from France and Spain as well as havens for continental pirates, privateers and smugglers. Some Tudor fortifications were built as well as Star Castle (now a luxury hotel) and the Garrison wall surrounding it. The Spaniard's never invaded. But there were some skirmishes between Royalists and Parliamentarians during the English Civil War, which left military ruins to explore.

The Inhabited Islands of Scilly

Each of the five inhabited islands has its own personality. It's easy and quick to go from one to the other (between 10 to 20 minutes) on the small boats that ply the channels between them—though that inter-island travel is influenced by tides (see more about that below). Island hopping is a big part of any visit to the Isles of Scilly.

St. Mary's

St. Mary's is the commercial hub of the islands and the main access, by boat, to the other four. It has Scilly's main airport receiving flights from the mainland (heliports on St. Mary's and Tresco will open in 2020), and it is the port for the ferry from Penzance.

Hugh Town, the capital of the Scillies, is little more than a tiny village by mainland standards, but this is where you'll find the islands' supermarket, clinic, a small selection of shops, several art galleries, and a good selection of pubs and restaurants. It's connected to the rest of St. Mary's by a narrow neck of land with white sand beaches on both sides.

The entire island is about two and a half miles long and three miles wide, covering an area of about six square miles. It has relatively level though rugged coastal walking, 30 miles of nature trails and just a few paved roads, clustered around Hugh Town.

St. Mary's and St. Agnes are noted for their flower farms—there are nine of them, producing the earliest scented narcissi available in the United Kingdom . If you take a guided tour of St. Mary's, a service provided by Toots Taxi , among others, ask to be shown the flower fields. They are long and narrow, protected all around by tall, robust hedgerows and a rare sight. St. Mary's also has the largest selection and variety of accommodations in the islands. They range from self-catering and B&B accommodations to four-star luxury at the Star Castle Hotel in a star-shaped, Elizabethan fortress within the island's Garrison.

St. Agnes is the southernmost community in the United Kingdom. It is a tiny, peaceful island with a population of only 72. It has a watersports center, St. Agnes Watersports , offering kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkeling; a handful of artists, an island hall, a small church with beautiful contemporary stained glass windows by local glass artist Oriel Hicks, and the Scillies' only dairy farm.

If you are collecting Guinness World Records, St. Agnes has, in the Turk's Head, the southernmost pub in the UK and, at Troytown Farm , the smallest dairy farm. Their nine cows produce yogurt, milk, and incredibly rich ice cream that you can buy direct from the farm. The farm also has holiday cottages and tent camping. The island is encircled with a (mostly) paved path, suitable for electric golf buggies or farm wagons, and not much more. One of the most pleasant things to do there is to circumnavigate the place, picking wild blackberries, looking out for the enormous range of wildflowers and succulents, and spotting the rare wild seabirds.

Gugh (pronounced "goo") is an island connected to St Agnes by a sandbar at low tide. Like a lot of the Isles of Scilly, it is littered with mysterious Stone Age ruins and has been populated for thousands of years. At the moment, it has a population of three. If you do decide to walk over, stay aware of the tides because there is no boat service to Gugh, and once the tide floods the sandbar, you could be there for 12 hours. The nearest landfall in the opposite direction is North America, some 3,000 miles away.

Tresco is the second largest of the Isles of Scilly but, at about 2.5 miles long, you could still circumnavigate it on a brisk morning walk. It is home to some of the most beautiful white-sand beaches in the group and the internationally famous Tresco Abbey Garden.

Of all the islands, Tresco probably has the most exciting history . It has been managed by the Dorrien Smith family, under lease from the Duchy of Cornwall, since 1834. Tresco Abbey, a 19th-century baronial mansion, is named for a monastery that had existed on the island for about 1,000 years until Henry VIII dissolved it. Augustus Smith, the founder of the family dynasty, was a follower of Jeremy Bentham and attempted to put Bentham's Utopian ideas into practice in the Isles of Scilly (at one time he managed all of the inhabited islands of the group). That included free compulsory public education decades before it was required elsewhere in England. Islanders had to pay a weekly fee to keep their children out of school. Smith's most significant legacy for visitors is Tresco Abbey Garden , an enormous, sub-tropical paradise in a sheltered valley and part of the ancient abbey grounds. If you do nothing else in the Scillies, a day trip to these gardens with their collection of exotic South African, Australian and New Zealand plants and flowers is a must.

Bryher is the smallest of the inhabited islands at only 330 acres. It's about a mile long and half a mile wide, so it's surprising how much variety you'll find there. The west-facing side has a rugged shoreline with rocky bluffs facing the Atlantic at Hell Bay (which should give you some idea of the possible waves and currents. The island's east side is just a few hundred yards across from Tresco, and on some extreme spring tides, it's possible to walk across the sand (along with several hundred others) between the two islands. As the water (regularly as much as 16 feet deep) recedes, it reveals the outline of Bronze Age settlements and field patterns.

St. Martin's

More sandy beaches, a luxury spa hotel, a vineyard, a pub, a tea shop, and a flower farm are pretty much all you'll find on St Martin's. It's the place to go for a quiet spot of relaxation. But it's also an excellent place for wildlife experiences, like snorkeling with seals and watersports. And a new, community-organized, two-domed observatory. COSMOS , paid for by the EU and local fundraising, is the most southwesterly observatory in the UK. It gives locals and visitors a chance to experience this island's natural dark skies stargazing environment.

More Things to Do in the Isles of Scilly

• Take to the water. By North Atlantic standards, the beaches that face the "pool" of water between the islands are shallow and usually warm enough for what the British refer to as "wild swimming," and the rest of us call swimming in the sea. You may need to wear a wet suit for warmth, though. The calm, inter-island waters are also famous for scuba diving. Scilly Diving , on St. Martin's, offers divers access to at least 155 identified dive sites.
• Get on the water. All kinds of boat hire, from kayaks, rowboats, small powerboats, and sailboats are available from suppliers on several of the islands. There are wildlife safaris from St. Agnes and St. Mary's and boat hire available on Bryher . Chalkboards on the dock of St. Mary's Pool Harbour list the times for a variety of boat excursions. Or check the Tourist Information Center near Porthcressa Beach on St Mary's for information about boating, accommodations, and events.
• Explore the ruins. Every inhabited island in the archipelago has the remains of past civilizations and cultures, from Bronze Age burial sites to Tudor fortifications. Visiting any of them usually involves an interesting walk with glorious views. The English Heritage book, Defending Scilly, downloadable free, online , is packed with information about Tudor, Civil War, and later fortifications for intrepid island explorers. Visit the English Heritage page for Bant's Carn Burial Chamber and Halangy Down Ancient Village , and you'll find further links to seven more prehistoric sites on St Mary's and Tresco.
• Visit an artist. For such a small place, the Isles of Scilly attract and keep a remarkable number of practicing artists. Many of them are happy to welcome you to their galleries or studios and talk to you about their work. Phoenix Crafts in Porthmellon Business Park, just east of Hugh Town on St Mary's hosts many artists and craftspeople, including stained glass artist Oriel Hicks . Also on St Mary's, Peter Macdonald Smith shows his seascapes and abstracts at Porthloo Studios, and Steve Sherris can often be found painting outdoors around St. Mary's. Ceramicist Lou Simmonds makes some of her pots from clay she digs on St. Agnes itself. She often welcomes visitors to her studio in St. Agnes' Island Hall. There are artists and galleries on every one of the islands. Ask at the Tourist Information Office for the Arts Guide, produced with help from the Arts Council. It's a comprehensive list.
• Watch the gig races. Pilot gigs are traditional boats, crewed by six, and a coxswain. They were once used to guide ships into Scilly's ports around treacherous sandbanks and reefs. Today, local men and women race them between the islands. From April to September, visitors and islanders gather along the shores to watch colorful gig races twice a week from about 8 p.m. Women race on Wednesdays, men on Fridays.
• Eat plenty of seafood. Being adrift in the Atlantic, it's a good bet that there's lots of good seafood on offer. Lobster, local crab, mussels, scallops, and all sorts of sea fish are easy to come by. We particularly liked The Beach , a relaxed, rustic restaurant on, you guessed it, the beach at Porthmellon on St Mary's.

Depending upon where you start from, getting to the Isles of Scilly can be something of an adventure. You can arrive on the islands by plane, ferry, or (after March 2020) by helicopter, but first, you have to get to one of several departure points in Cornwall or Devon. If you are traveling from London by train, that can take between three and a half hours (to Exeter in Devon, the closest ) and five and a half hours to Penzance. You can also fly from London to Exeter or Newquay (an hour and ten minutes for either)

Whatever you do, don't plan a travel schedule that depends upon precise timing and tight connections. Weather in this part of the world can cause delays or cancellations from wind, fog, or rough seas. If you're heading back to London for a flight home, invest in a cushion of a day or two extra, just in case you are delayed getting off the islands. We were warned by other travelers that flights between St. Mary's Airport and Lands End, while short, were notorious for fog cancellations. Sure enough, a canceled return flight meant we were transferred to a ferry and arrived two hours too late for the last train back to London.

Isles of Scilly Travel operate Skybus fixed-wing flights to St Mary's Airport from Exeter, Newquay, or Lands End. The fastest, cheapest flights are from Land's End, costing 90 pounds (around $115) each way for a 20-minute flight, with up to 21 flights a day in peak season. The standard one-way fare from Newquay is 116 pounds and 75 pence and takes 30 minutes, five flights a day in peak season. Flights from Land's End and Newquay are scheduled year-round. Skybus flies from Exeter from March through October. It takes 60 minutes and costs 170 pounds and 75 pence each way. These are tiny planes so do plan to travel light. You can take two pieces of hold luggage with a combined weight of not more than 33 pounds. Carry-on is limited to one piece—a handbag or a camera, for example, but not both.

If you need to carry more, consider taking the ferry. The Scillonian , also operated by Isles of Scilly Travel, sails between Penzance and St Mary's from late March to the end of October. Standard one-way adult fare is 55 pounds (around $70), and the voyage takes two hours and 45 minutes.

Penzance Helicopters are scheduled to start flying from Penzance to St. Mary's and Tresco on March 17, 2020. The heliport is near Penzance train station with an electric shuttle bus service between the station and the helipad. The year-round flights will take 15 minutes, and costs start at 122 pounds ($159) each way. Passengers can check one item of luggage in the hold, but it can weigh up to 44 pounds. Carry on is limited to one small piece—a coat or a handbag, for example.

Visitors are not allowed to bring cars to the islands, and most people get around on foot, by bicycle or on electric golf carts that can be rented on St. Mary's, the biggest island. There are taxi services, airport, and hotel shuttle buses, as well as cars owned by locals on St. Mary's. And on Tresco, you'll occasionally see little green electric Tresco Estate service vehicles whizzing around.

All of the islands are connected by boat services, with small motorboats traveling between them several times a day. Boatmen's associations run the boats on the different islands and, because travel between the islands is so dependent on the tides, their schedules are usually only posted the day before. Look for them on chalkboards on the docks and published in the Tourist Information Office. The St. Mary's Boatmen's Association posts a seasonal schedule online, but it is subject to change, so its best to ask your hotel to check for you the day before. The Tresco Boatmen's association posts its next day schedule online. Tresco Boat Services and St. Agnes Boating coordinate with St. Mary's to provide services to the off islands. Trips are short, just 15 to 20 minutes, and relatively inexpensive. For the most part, the inter-island waters are calm. Sailing to St. Agnes, the southernmost island, involves crossing the main deep water channel to the sea, and some may find the swells unnerving in the small open boats. Tides wait for no one, and neither do the Isles of Scilly inter-island boats. Be at the dock at the appointed time, or you could find yourself left behind until the next high tide.

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• Travel Guide
• Beaches & Islands

Your 1 Week Itinerary To Visit The Isles Of Scilly

Published: September 21, 2023

Modified: December 27, 2023

by Caryn Rae

• Hotel Reviews
• Plan Your Trip
• Travel Destinations
• Travel Tips
• Historic Sites
• outdoor activities

Introduction

Welcome to the Isles of Scilly, a hidden gem nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, just off the coast of Cornwall. With its pristine white sandy beaches, crystal clear turquoise waters, and breathtaking landscapes, the Isles of Scilly offer a truly unparalleled beach and island experience. This archipelago of 140 islands, of which only 5 are inhabited, is a haven for nature lovers, outdoor enthusiasts, and those seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

In this comprehensive one-week itinerary, we will guide you through the must-visit islands and provide you with insights on how to make the most of your time in this picturesque destination. From exploring St. Mary’s Island, the largest and main island, to hopping over to Tresco for a visit to the world-famous Tresco Abbey Gardens, and discovering the untouched beauty of Bryher and St. Martin’s Island, you are in for an unforgettable adventure.

But the fun doesn’t end there! The Isles of Scilly also offer a plethora of lesser-known islands, each with its distinctive charm and allure. Get ready to uncover hidden coves, go birdwatching, stroll along rugged coastal paths, and indulge in fresh seafood delicacies.

So, grab your sunscreen, pack your beachwear, and get ready to embark on a journey to the Isles of Scilly, where sun, sand, and serenity await you at every turn.

Day 1: Arrival in the Isles of Scilly

Welcome to the enchanting Isles of Scilly! Upon your arrival at St. Mary’s Airport or the St. Mary’s Harbour, take a deep breath and prepare to immerse yourself in the island’s beauty. Start your day by checking into your accommodation, whether it’s a cozy guesthouse, a charming bed and breakfast, or one of the island’s luxury hotels.

Once you’ve settled in, it’s time to begin your exploration of the main island, St. Mary’s. Start by wandering through Hugh Town, the island’s main settlement, and soak in the quaint charm of its narrow streets lined with colorful cottages and local shops. Make a pitstop at one of the cafes or pubs for a refreshing drink or a bite to eat.

As you continue your walk, make your way to the Garrison Walls, a historic site that offers stunning panoramic views of the island and the surrounding turquoise sea. Explore the ancient fortifications and learn about the island’s fascinating history. Afterward, head to Porthcressa Beach, a beautiful sandy stretch perfect for a leisurely stroll or a dip in the crystal clear waters.

In the afternoon, take a boat trip to the neighboring uninhabited island of Samson. This peaceful and secluded island is a nature lover’s paradise, with its untouched landscapes, rugged cliffs, and abundant wildlife. Explore the island’s walking trails and enjoy the tranquility of this hidden gem.

In the evening, return to St. Mary’s and savor a delicious seafood dinner at one of the island’s renowned restaurants. Indulge in freshly caught fish, succulent lobster, or mouthwatering crab, all sourced from the surrounding waters. Pair your meal with a locally brewed beer or cider for a truly authentic experience.

After dinner, take a leisurely stroll along the beach, letting the gentle waves and the cool sea breeze wash away the stresses of everyday life. Take a moment to appreciate the starlit sky, as the Isles of Scilly are known for their lack of light pollution, providing a breathtaking backdrop for stargazing.

As your first day on the Isles of Scilly comes to a close, relish the serenity of the island and get a good night’s rest, ready for an exciting adventure-filled week ahead.

Day 2: Exploring St. Mary’s Island

Get ready for a day of discovery as you delve deeper into the wonders of St. Mary’s Island. After a hearty breakfast, head out to explore the island’s natural beauty and historical landmarks.

Start your day with a visit to the iconic St. Mary’s Old Town Church, located on a hill overlooking the island. Admire the architecture and step inside to appreciate the tranquility and spiritual atmosphere of this historic place of worship.

Next, make your way to the Telegraph Tower, an impressive granite structure that served as a communication hub in the 19th century. Climb to the top for breathtaking vistas of the surrounding islands and take in the panoramic views.

Continue your adventure by exploring the charming coastal paths of St. Mary’s. With over 30 miles of trails, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to lose yourself in the island’s natural beauty. Wander along sandy beaches, traverse rocky cliffs, and pass by picturesque fields dotted with wildflowers. Keep your eyes peeled for local wildlife, including seals, seabirds, and even the occasional dolphin.

For lunch, head to one of the island’s cozy cafes or pubs and indulge in traditional Cornish dishes. From hearty pasties to fresh seafood platters, you’ll find a delectable array of options to satisfy your hunger.

In the afternoon, take a boat trip to the nearby islands of St. Agnes and Gugh. These two islands are connected by a sandbar known as the “Gugh Bar,” offering a unique opportunity to walk between them during low tide. Explore the sandy beaches, tidal pools, and rocky outcrops of St. Agnes, and enjoy the tranquility of this unspoiled paradise.

End your day with a visit to the Isles of Scilly Museum, located in Hugh Town. Learn about the rich history and fascinating heritage of the islands through exhibits showcasing archaeological finds, maritime artifacts, and the stories of the island’s inhabitants past and present.

As the sun sets over St. Mary’s Island, savor a delicious dinner at one of the island’s many restaurants. Indulge in locally sourced produce, including fresh seafood and seasonal vegetables, all expertly prepared by talented chefs. Raise a glass to a day filled with exploration, adventure, and the beauty of St. Mary’s Island.

After dinner, take a leisurely stroll along the beach, enjoying the gentle lapping of the waves and the peacefulness of the island at night. Reflect on the wonders you’ve experienced and prepare for another incredible day in the Isles of Scilly.

Day 3: Island Hopping to Tresco

Today, prepare to embark on an unforgettable adventure as you hop over to the beautiful island of Tresco. After breakfast, make your way to the St. Mary’s Harbour and catch a boat to Tresco, which is just a short journey away.

Upon arrival, you will immediately be captivated by the island’s natural beauty and serene atmosphere. Tresco is renowned for its stunning gardens, pristine beaches, and rich biodiversity. Begin your exploration by immersing yourself in the world-famous Tresco Abbey Gardens.

Take your time strolling through the meticulously curated gardens, which feature an impressive collection of subtropical plants from around the world. Admire vibrant flower displays, explore winding paths, and discover hidden nooks and crannies that offer breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

After your garden adventure, head to one of Tresco’s picturesque beaches for some relaxation under the sun. Choose from idyllic spots such as Appletree Bay, Pentle Bay, or the white sands of Old Grimsby. Bask in the tranquility, take a dip in the crystal clear waters, or simply lay back and enjoy a good book while soaking up the island vibes.

If you’re feeling adventurous, rent a bicycle or a kayak and explore the island at your own pace. Navigate the scenic coastal paths, visit historical sites such as Cromwell’s Castle and King Charles’s Castle, or paddle along the shoreline uncovering secret coves and secluded beaches.

For lunch, indulge in a delicious meal at one of the island’s restaurants or cafes. Sample fresh seafood dishes, savor hearty local cuisine, or opt for a light picnic with locally sourced ingredients in one of Tresco’s picnic areas.

In the afternoon, take a boat trip to the uninhabited neighboring island of St. Helen’s. This small, picturesque island offers opportunities to spot seals and seabirds and explore its rugged coastline. Take a peaceful stroll along the beach or simply relax and enjoy the tranquility of this untouched paradise.

As the day draws to a close, make your way back to Tresco for a memorable dinner. Choose from a variety of dining options, whether it’s a waterfront restaurant with stunning sea views or a cozy pub serving up hearty dishes. Relish the flavors of the island and reflect on the beauty you have experienced throughout the day.

Day 4: Discovering Bryher Island

Today, get ready to explore the hidden gem of Bryher Island. After breakfast, catch a boat from St. Mary’s to Bryher, a small and charming island known for its rugged beauty and tranquility.

Upon arriving, take a moment to soak in the serenity that Bryher offers. With its unspoiled landscapes, sandy beaches, and crystal-clear waters, this island is a paradise for nature lovers. Start your exploration by heading to Hell Bay, Bryher’s most famous and breathtaking beach. Take a leisurely stroll along the golden sands, dip your toes in the refreshing waters, and enjoy the stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Afterward, venture out on the coastal path that encircles the island. As you walk, you’ll be treated to dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and panoramic vistas that will leave you in awe. Keep an eye out for the diverse birdlife that calls Bryher home, including oystercatchers, gannets, and puffins.

For lunch, visit one of the island’s charming cafes or take advantage of the picnic spots available. Enjoy a delicious meal while taking in the picturesque surroundings. Don’t forget to try some local delicacies, such as Bryher crab or lobster, for a true taste of the island.

In the afternoon, rent a kayak or paddleboard and explore Bryher’s coastline from the water. Navigate through pristine waters, admire the rocky shores, and perhaps even get a glimpse of some seals basking on the rocks. Alternatively, join a boat trip that takes you on a tour around the neighboring islands, allowing you to appreciate the beauty of the archipelago from a different perspective.

As the day winds down, make your way to Fraggle Rock Bar, a popular spot on Bryher for a refreshing drink and a stunning sunset view. Relax, unwind, and watch as the sky turns vibrant hues of orange and pink, casting a magical glow over the island.

For dinner, indulge in a meal at one of Bryher’s restaurants, which offer a variety of cuisines, including fresh seafood, international dishes, and traditional favorites. Sit back, savor the flavors, and reflect on the beauty and tranquility of Bryher Island.

Before retiring for the night, take a gentle stroll along the beach, letting the sound of the waves lull you into a state of relaxation. Marvel at the starry sky, and feel the peace and harmony that can only be found on this idyllic island. Rest well, knowing that more adventures await you in the days to come.

Day 5: Visiting St. Martin’s Island

On Day 5, prepare to explore the picturesque island of St. Martin’s, a true gem in the Isles of Scilly. After breakfast, catch a boat from St. Mary’s and embark on a short journey to this idyllic island.

St. Martin’s is known for its pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and untouched landscapes. Start your day by taking a leisurely walk along the sandy shores of Great Bay, where you can feel the soft sand between your toes and enjoy the breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. Take a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters or simply relax and soak up the sun’s rays.

Next, venture inland to explore the island’s rolling hills and flower-filled meadows. Follow the island’s footpaths that lead you through fields adorned with vibrant wildflowers and offer panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Don’t forget to bring your camera to capture the beauty of the island’s rugged cliffs and captivating coastal scenery.

For lunch, visit one of the island’s quaint cafes or tearooms, where you can indulge in delicious homemade treats and locally sourced ingredients. Enjoy a leisurely meal while embracing the laid-back atmosphere of the island.

In the afternoon, discover St. Martin’s hidden treasures by hopping on a boat tour around the island. Sail along the coastline, exploring its numerous coves and inlets, and perhaps even catching glimpses of seals and dolphins playing in the water. Visit the Eastern Isles, a collection of small uninhabited islands renowned for their abundant birdlife and stunning natural beauty.

After your boat tour, make your way to the Daymark, a landmark tower that stands proudly on St. Martin’s highest point. Climb to the top for panoramic vistas of the island and its surrounding seascape. Take a moment to appreciate the unspoiled beauty of this special place.

As the sun begins to set, head to St. Martin’s famous Polreath Beach. With its golden sands, clear waters, and dramatic cliffs, this beach exemplifies the natural beauty of the Isles of Scilly. Find a comfortable spot to sit, admire the stunning sunset, and reflect on the memories you’ve made on your island adventure.

For dinner, choose from a variety of dining options on St. Martin’s. Enjoy freshly caught seafood, savor locally sourced produce, or opt for a traditional pub meal. Whatever your preference, savor the flavors of the island in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.

After dinner, take a quiet stroll along the beach, listening to the soothing sound of the waves crashing against the shore. Gaze up at the star-filled sky, appreciating the tranquility and simplicity of island life. Rest well, knowing that more island adventures await you in the days ahead.

Day 6: Exploring the Lesser-known Islands

On Day 6, get ready to uncover the hidden treasures of the Isles of Scilly as you explore the lesser-known islands. After breakfast, set off on a boat adventure to discover the unique charm and natural beauty of these secluded gems.

Start your day by visiting the island of St. Agnes, located to the southwest of St. Mary’s. This tranquil island offers a peaceful retreat away from the bustle of everyday life. Take a leisurely stroll along the sandy shores, explore the rocky coastline, and marvel at the stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Don’t forget to visit the charming St. Agnes’ Church, the most westerly in the British Isles, which has become a symbol of the island’s close-knit community.

Next, venture to the island of St. Martin’s, known for its pristine beaches and untouched landscapes. Discover the idyllic stretches of sand, such as Great Bay and Par Beach, where you can relax, soak up the sun, and enjoy the tranquility of these quiet havens. Take in the panoramic views of the surrounding islands and appreciate the unspoiled beauty that St. Martin’s has to offer.

Continue your island-hopping adventure by visiting the enchanting island of St. Mary’s. Explore the lesser-known areas of this main island, venturing beyond the bustling Hugh Town. Discover hidden coves, secluded beaches, and breathtaking viewpoints that offer uninterrupted views of the azure sea.

For lunch, enjoy a picnic on one of the lesser-known islands or treat yourself to a delicious meal at a local cafe or pub. Indulge in fresh seafood, sample local delicacies, and embrace the laid-back vibe of island life.

In the afternoon, explore the smaller uninhabited islands, such as Tresco’s uninhabited eastern islets or the rugged beauty of the Western Rocks. Take a boat tour around these islands, marveling at their unique rock formations, diverse birdlife, and the sense of solitude they offer.

As the day comes to a close, find a peaceful spot on one of the lesser-known islands to witness a stunning sunset. Breathe in the salty sea air, listen to the calming sound of the waves, and watch as the sky transforms into a vibrant display of colors. Reflect on the beauty and serenity of these hidden jewels and cherish the memories you’ve created throughout your island exploration.

For dinner, savor a meal at one of the island’s cozy restaurants, enjoying delicious food made from locally sourced ingredients. Toast to a day filled with discovery and relaxation, soaking in the rustic charm of the lesser-known islands.

After dinner, take a leisurely stroll along the beach, enjoying the peacefulness that comes with being surrounded by nature. Take time to reflect on the unique experiences you’ve had and the wonders you’ve witnessed on these less-explored islands. Rest well, knowing that tomorrow holds more surprises and adventures in store for you on the Isles of Scilly.

Day 7: Farewell to the Isles of Scilly

As your time on the Isles of Scilly comes to an end, make the most of your last day on this enchanting archipelago. After breakfast, take a moment to soak up the beauty of your surroundings and reflect on the memories you have made throughout the week.

If you haven’t already, dedicate some time to explore the charming streets of Hugh Town on St. Mary’s island. Wander through the picturesque lanes, browse the local shops for souvenirs, or indulge in a final coffee at one of the island’s inviting cafes.

If you’re feeling adventurous, opt for a final island-hop to one of the lesser-explored islands that you may have missed during your stay. Whether it’s the rugged charm of Bryher, the tranquil beauty of Tresco, or the idyllic shores of St. Martin’s, take this opportunity to immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of each island.

Spend some time on one of the pristine beaches, taking in the breathtaking views and basking in the tranquility of the Isles of Scilly. Whether you choose to feel the sand between your toes, paddle in the azure waters, or stretch out on a picnic blanket, relish in the peace and serenity that these shores offer.

Before bidding farewell to the Isles of Scilly, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the island’s delightful eateries. Sample local favorites, such as a traditional Cornish pasty or a freshly caught seafood dish, savoring the flavors and embracing the true essence of island cuisine.

As you prepare to depart, take a moment to appreciate the natural beauty of the landscape one last time. Capture a final photograph, breathe in the fresh sea air, and let the tranquility of the Isles of Scilly leave a lasting impression on your heart.

Say goodbye to the gentle rhythm of island life as you board your boat or plane back to the mainland. Reflect on the incredible experiences you’ve had and the memories you’ve created during your time on the Isles of Scilly.

As you bid farewell to this breathtaking archipelago, carry the spirit of the islands with you. Remember the pristine beaches, the crystal-clear waters, and the endless exploration that awaits you on your next adventure. The Isles of Scilly will always be a cherished memory, a place of serenity and beauty that you can return to in your dreams.

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The Isles of Scilly: a luxury guide

What to see and where to sleep in the breathtakingly beautiful ‘Cornish Caribbean’

Behind the Isles of Scilly’s raw and rugged façade, this archipelago of contrasts is unassumingly charming and quaint. Whilst holding familiarities with neighbouring Cornwall (the islands are only a minimum 15-minute flight or three-hour boat ride away from Land’s End) the Scillonian visage also shares likenesses with the tropics, boasting the kind of white sand, clear turquoise waters, rare birds and lush flora and fauna you’d discover on the other side of the world. Its nickname, the Cornish Caribbean, is fitting - and, as we were shown, it delivers an exotic getaway on our doorstep.

The Scilly Isles relies on tourism, but without feeling typically touristy. An authentic relaxed pace guarantees peace and tranquillity – a pleasant tonic for us city dwellers. Visitors can be fiercely loyal, with those that return year after year for decades. They insist nowhere else can match it.

Besides holidays, honeymoons and please-all family getaways, the Isles of Scilly also make for an scintillating wedding destination, marrying exoticism with convenience (given that it is still a part of England, after all). Take that, Bahamas.

Whatever takes you there, here’s the Bazaar guide to seeing Scilly in style.

St Mary’s island

St Mary’s is by some way the biggest and busiest of the five inhabited isles, though it still very much holds the slow tempo of a tiny island dictated by tidal temperament. There’s a significant road network, but the way to get about as a tourist is by foot, bike or electric golf buggy.

The main ferry and the inter-island boats come and go from Hugh Town which is also where you’ll find a choice of cafes, pubs and restaurants. Above Hugh Town lies the Garrison, a remarkable historic coastal defence system that must be explored. A circular trail around the walls will reveal restored canons in batteries, while the view on your horizon of the archipelago and beyond constantly changes.

In addition to the castle accommodation, the hotel offers garden cottages with verandas to host some spectacular sunset viewings. Perfect for families and those wanting more space or privacy, the rooms are bright, spacious and stylish.

Don’t miss the lobster lunch, which you can enjoy in private at Star Castle (we savoured ours on the garden patio in front of the heated indoor swimming pool), or a stroll away at the tranquil Holy Vale Vineyard and Winery .

For lighter lunches (though potentially indulgent) visit The Farm Deli in Hugh Town to pick up decent coffees, crab quiche and homemade courgette cake to fuel your island hopping.

Tresco island

Subtropical Tresco is the second largest island. Privately owned by the Dorrien-Smith family and managed by the Tresco Estate, it rightly has a suggestion of sophistication and luxury. It’s no wonder the rich and famous retreat there.

Pentle Bay and Appletree Bay can be considered among some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, with fine white sand blending into vivid turquoise hues. But it’s not only the photogenic beaches that give Tresco its paradise island status, it’s the famed Abbey Garden , too.

This is home for thousands of exotic plant species from all over the world, which are able to flourish thanks to the combination of warm gulf stream water and tall evergreen wind-breaks. The resulting microclimate allows tender plants, from small ferns to mighty trees – unable to survive elsewhere in the UK – to thrive here. The ever-evolving Tresco Abbey Garden also plays host to exotic golden pheasant and red squirrels. Even the native birds are remarkably tame. As a bonus, its hillside positioning also grants spectacular views of the other islands across the water. A must visit.

The popular way to stay on the island is in one of the luxury cottages. With rentals by the night or week, the Tresco Estate has various options (from traditional cottages to the more modern) with sea views and spa access.

The island’s spa has an extensive menu of body and beauty treatments, plus all the wet facilities you could want (indoor pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna) and a fully equipped gym. We were spoilt for choice – even our cottage had an indoor swimming pool and gym on site.

The stock at the classy village shop, aptly nicknamed ‘Fortnum’s on Sea’ makes self-catering – and barbecuing to the soundtrack of sea waves – a real pleasure. However, given that our cottage was a stone’s throw from Ruin Beach Café, renowned for its fine fare (from fresh fish to woodfired pizzas) and prime views, we happily found ourselves there for most meals.

We were lucky enough to visit the island during a ‘Low Tide Event’, where for a few hours (and with the right guidance) the channel between Tresco and neighbouring Bryher becomes dry enough to cross on foot. Delightfully, this is marked with a mini festival, with the islanders setting up food and drink stalls for their ‘Party in the Sea’. We combined the unique experience with an afternoon exploring Bryher, returning to Tresco by boat that evening.

Bryher island

Without an agenda, wondering around wild Bryher – inhabited by under 100 people, making it the smallest inhabited island – is quite magical. Picturesque bays with the powdery sand of Tresco contrast the more hilly, rugged terrain. Brace yourself for epic westerly views of dramatic waves lapping the coastline.

By foot you can easily reach a couple of cafes, a lovely local shop, fudge stall and some art spaces, including the quirky Michael Morpurgo (author of Why the Whales Came , set on Bryher) micro exhibition in a red telephone box.

For luxury accommodation – and much more – seek out Hell Bay Hotel. We drank to a jaw-dropping sunset on the terrace, and enjoyed excellent seafood in the restaurant. The location, with Atlantic views, was spectacular, which the atmosphere matched.

St Martin’s and St Agnes islands

Don’t miss visits to St Martin’s and St Agnes. The former is celebrated for its unspoilt beaches with soft white sand and crisp waters. From here, with the island’s award winning dive school you can explore the 155-plus dive sites or book onto a snorkelling trip with seals.

St Agnes, meanwhile, has an isolated charm. With a community of roughly 70 people, the southernmost populated island attracts visitors for its stunning wildlife and peaceful coves.

Getting there

To discover more about the Isles of Scilly, go to visitislesofscilly.com . You can fly with Isles of Scilly Travel from Exeter, Newquay and Land’s End Airports and enjoy breath-taking aerial views of this beautiful cluster of islands from the comfort of your Skybus plane. Flights from Land’s End take just 15 minutes, 30 minutes from Newquay and 60 minutes from Exeter (only between March and October). Prices start from £140 return from Land’s End Airport. Island Helicopters operate up to eight flights available from Land’s End Airport to St Mary’s, six days a week, and return fares are priced from £215. From spring through to late autumn, the Scillonian lll passenger ferry sails up to seven days a week between Penzance and St. Mary’s. Prices start from £90 return. To book your journey, phone 01736 334220 or visit islesofscilly-travel.co.uk . For more information on inter-island boating visit the St. Mary's Boatmen's Association and Tresco Boats .

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The Ultimate Isles Of Scilly Travel Guide | England

With sandy white beaches and swaying palm trees, you may think that you’ve arrived on some tropical paradise island. However, you haven’t landed in the Caribbean or Mediterranean but you’re actually in the Isles of Scilly in England! Want to know more? I’ve put together this Isles of Scilly travel guide so you can plan your own trip to this little gem tucked away in the corner of England.

I had heard about the Isles of Scilly before and we recently had the chance to visit them. It had always intrigued me how such a place could exist in England. Somehow, the islands still manage to keep their British charm. You may be on a sandy beach or be walking past palm trees but you almost feel like you’re at a British seaside town back on the mainland.

We had an amazing time on the Scilly Isles and now I want to share everything we learnt from our trip. Enjoy this Isles of Scilly travel guide and plan your own trip to this little slice of paradise in England.

Read More | The Ultimate UK Bucket List

Where Are The Isles Of Scilly?

The secret is out and more and more people are finding out the Isles of Scilly are located in… England! You may be forgiven for thinking that they are located in the Mediterranean but they’re located 45km (35 miles) from the tip of Land’s End, so they are still part of Cornwall in England’s southwest.

The 250-mile journey to Cornwall from London takes around 5 hours by car. Luckily for you, Cornwall is one of England’s most beautiful counties with plenty to do and see. With stunning beaches and beautiful little seaside towns, it’s well worth taking the time to explore this part of the country.

Weather On The Isles Of Scilly

You may have heard people calling the Isles of Scilly ‘the UK’s answer to the Caribbean’ or ‘England’s tropical hidden gem’ but the weather isn’t quite as warm as that. Sure some of the beaches may look like they’ve come straight out of a Caribbean postcard, but the islands are still part of England don’t forget!

The weather follows the typical seasons in the northern hemisphere. August is the warmest month to visit with an average temperature of 19-20°c. The islands are positioned on the end of the North Atlantic Current so temperatures may seem milder compared to the rest of England. There’s a high chance of rain from November to February while the driest month is May.

We visited in July and while we had some long sunny days we also had spots of rain. But I’ve spoken to others who have had nothing but sunshine during the summer months.

How To Get To The Isles Of Scilly

Getting to the Isles of Scilly is half the fun, and needs a bit of planning due to their location. First, you need to make your way to the town of Penzance in Cornwall. So if you’re staying in London for example, you would need to take a train or hire a car. From Penzance, you can make your way over to the island of St. Mary’s by air or by sea!

The Scillonian Ferry

Probably the most common way to get to the Scilly Isles is by ferry. The Scillonian III to be precise! Although a standard adult fare of £65.95 ($81/€76) is not cheap, it is still the most cost-effective way to get to the islands. You will need to purchase a return trip at the same cost!

The ferry journey takes around 2 hours 45 minutes and runs from April to November. It’s quite a nice relaxing journey with comfortable seats and a small cafe on board. If you’re lucky you may even see dolphins or seals on your trip. However, there is only one ferry to St. Mary’s in the morning and one returning in the afternoon. So don’t miss it!

For more information on the Scillonian, head to the website , where you can view an up-to-date timetable and prices.

Day Trip | You can purchase a day trip ticket for £35.00 ($43/€40). I would only recommend this if you’re really, really short on time as you would arrive at St. Mary’s at around 12:30pm and leave again at 16:30pm (average departure times.)

A more convenient way to travel to the Isles of Scilly is the Sky Bus. You can get flights to the Scilly Isles from Exeter, Newquay and Land’s End airports. Depending on the airport, the journey is much quicker – 60 mins from Exeter and only 20 mins from Land’s End!

It’s quite a cool experience on the Sky Bus. If you fly from Land’s End, you can pay for a transfer from Penzance to the tiny little airport. The planes are also very small with only around 8 passengers on board and you even see the pilots doing their thing in the cockpit!

A standard adult ticket starts at £105 ($130/€122) each way so it’s a more expensive option but you can’t put a price on time! There are multiple flights throughout the day, making a day trip (£127) to the Scilly Isles a more tempting option than on the Scillonian.

Check out the official website for timetables and booking.

Fly & Sail | A great option for those who are undecided is to fly one way and sail the other. This is what we did on our trip to the Scilly Isles. This way, you’ll get to experience the best of both worlds

Penzance Helicopters

For a truly grand entrance, why not arrive by helicopter and feel like an A-list celebrity? Penzance Helicopters offers journeys from Penzance to either St. Mary’s or Tresco in only 15 mins! Prices start at £134.50 ($165€156) off-peak and you can book on their website .

Isles Of Scilly Accommodation

The Isles of Scilly are not what you would call a budget travel destination. Although the prices are similar to the rest of the UK in terms of food and drink, accommodation is a little pricey for your typical hotel, B&B. A quick look on Booking.com shows properties for over £200 ($230) per night.

For those who want to travel on a budget, I recommend booking early on Airbnb and staying in Hugh Town, St. Mary’s. This is probably the best bet for cheaper accommodation and there are more options available compared to the other islands. We stayed in an Airbnb for under £100 ($115) per night and were able to explore the other islands using Hugh Town as our base.

Another option is camping. Many of the islands have camping grounds and this is a great option for those who love the outdoors. Prices range from £11 ($12.60) to £55 ($63) per night.

Getting Around The Isles Of Scilly

The Isles Of Scilly consists of 5 inhabited islands and all are well connected by boat. While most visited will be staying in St. Mary’s there are some accommodation options on the other islands.

The islands are only 5-20 minutes apart and are easily accessible from the quay. Times are usually posted on notice boards as well as each island’s own boat service Facebook pages.

Our plan of action was to take a walk to the quay the day before and check out the departure and return times. These may be different due to the tides. We would then buy our tickets (not timed) ready for our trip the next day.

Best Things To Do On The Isles Of Scilly

Eat fresh sea food.

The local farmers and fishermen will tell you that the Scilly Isles have some of the best food in the UK. The food is locally sourced and reared on or around the islands themselves so you know it’s going to be fresh and you’ll be doing the environment a favour by reducing the carbon footprint.

There are many award-winning restaurants and eateries dotted around the isles for you to sample. It goes without saying that seafood should be the top choice when exploring these islands. From fresh fish to lobster, you’ll find an amazing choice of fresh seafood all over the islands and you have to try the lobster roll… yum!

See St. Mary’s

St. Mary’s is the largest of the Scilly Isles and the gateway to the rest of the islands. It is where the airport is located and where the Scillonian arrives and departs. Hugh Town is the main hub where you’ll find shops, cafes, restaurants and the Scilly Isle’s only banks (so withdraw your cash here if you need it!)

St. Mary’s is the best place to base yourself if you want to explore the other islands. You’ll find more accommodation options and there is also plenty to see and do including gin distillery tours and riding around in golf carts.

Island Hopping

There are 5 inhabited islands in Scilly – St. Mary’s, Tresco, St. Martins, St. Agnes and Bryher. Each one is different and a visit to at least one other island is a must! From the gardens of Tresco to the beaches of St. Martins, it’s really worth taking the boat out to all the other islands in this region.

While most people are happy to visit the main islands, there are over 140 more scattered around the archipelago. Many are home to wildlife whilst others are worth exploring due to their uniqueness such as Bishop Rock where a lighthouse sits on the world’s smallest island!

Wildlife Spotting

As previously mentioned, the Scilly Isles are home to an array of marine and sea life. It’s not uncommon to spot dolphins and porpoises whilst out at sea and there are several seal colonies around the islands.

Boat trips are available from the quay but you may have to book in advance and these are very popular in high season. Popular boat trips include the seabird sanctuary island of Annet and the islands east of St. Martin’s where seals and seabirds love to hang out. Another popular option is the glass bottom boat trips from St. Mary and St. Martin’s.

Enjoy The Beaches At St. Martin’s

St Martin’s has some of the best beaches on the Isles of Scilly and it’s the island you want to be on if sunbathing is your thing.

It’s on St Martin’s that you’ll find Great Bay – an untouched, white sand beach with crystal clear waters considered to be the best in the Scilly Isles. You’ll feel like you’re spending the day in the Caribbean instead of England!!

You won’t find any shops or cafes on the beaches so it’s best to stock up on food and drink (take your rubbish/trash please!) The Island Bakery or convenience store are the best places to buy snacks.

Explore The Island Of Tresco

This subtropical island is classy yet chilled! Tresco is a Royal favourite with William and Kate visiting two summers in a row. We enjoyed a beer and snacks at the Ruin Beach Cafe where a local told us William had visited recently.

There are plenty of other things to do on Tresco besides following the Royals and a hike to Cromwell’s Castle is a particular highlight. There are also a few beaches on the island to explore and you can also play a round of golf, or enjoy a spa treatment or yoga session.

See The Tresco Abbey Gardens

The famous Tresco Abbey Gardens are a must-see when visiting the Isles of Scilly. Located on Tresco, there are around 4000 different specimens in the gardens from over 80 countries. Quite incredible if you consider that many of these plants wouldn’t survive anywhere else in the UK.

The entrance to these fabulous gardens costs £18 and there’s no need to book. There’s a cafe and shop there too so you can enjoy a tea or coffee and a sandwich in true Brit style! You can find out more about the gardens on their website .

Walk From Tresco To Bryher

Bryher, the smallest of the inhabited islands, is a contrast of rugged coastlines on the west and calm and sandy on the east. It’s a great place for walks, picnics and beach days. However, several times a year everyone wants to get to/from Bryher and not by boat!

The location, around 230 metres or so from Tresco, can be walked at very low tide! This can only be done a few times each year so it’s quite a popular event! Check out the dates & times when the tide is low if you want to time your visit with this unique event.

Walking On St. Agnes

The Isles of Scilly’s most south-westerly island is wild and untouched. The island is great for walking and you can walk the coast, through little villages and onto untamed beaches. Don’t miss the Gugh sandbar that’s only visible during low tide and if you like Troytown Farm ice cream, well the farm is found right here!

Don’t forget to grab a pint at the famous Turk’s Head pub – the Most South Westerly Pub in the British Isles!

Snorkel With Seals

One of the best things to do in the Scilly isles is to swim with some resident Atlantic grey seals. These cute critters live off the coast of St. Martin’s and you don’t need any experience to participate. The seals are friendly and inquisitive and you’ll be well looked after by Seal Snorkelling Adventures .

The experience costs £55 ($67/€64) and lasts for around 2.5 hours. There are only 2 sessions per day and a maximum of 10 people per group. This is so the seals don’t get too used to having people around. Make sure you book early, especially in the summer months.

I hope you enjoyed reading this Isles of Scilly travel guide. If you have any questions or suggestions then feel free to get in contact. Or just let me know in the comments below .

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Jeff Yip is the owner and author of Life of Y, a blog that helps travellers find adventure travel on a budget. As a travel expert, Jeff has explored over 50 countries (many as a solo traveller), been to 6 continents, and seen all 7 World Wonders. Jeff shares his tips and hacks on Life of Y so others can follow their dreams without breaking the bank.

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Isles of Scilly holiday guide: what to do, plus the best beaches, restaurants and hotels

Azure seas, sub-tropical gardens and white sand beaches and just 15 minutes from Cornwall … Gavin McOwan on the Isles of Scilly’s top places to eat, sleep and enjoy

F ew place names are as definitive as Land’s End, but the sliver of Britain that crashes into the Atlantic at the tip of Cornwall was only the starting point for my trip to the Isles of Scilly, a journey that felt like an adventure in itself. Mine started on the overnight sleeper from London to Penzance, before I boarded a 16-seater twin-engine aircraft at Land’s End airport. The plane was so small I could have leaned forward and touched the pilot’s shoulder. Ten minutes later, the archipelago’s Caribbean-like blue waters were glistening below us.

When you arrive in the Scillies from the mainland, it feels like you’ve journeyed back in time. It is so isolated and small – with a population of just 2,200 on five inhabited islands – that the sense of community is very strong, but also very welcoming. And it’s so safe (a recent job advert for a constable on “possibly the most enviable policing post in the UK or even the world” went viral) that no one locks their doors and kids can run wild across the islands like Enid Blyton characters.

The current Radio 4 comedy On the Rocks pokes gentle fun at island life in 1937, but there’s much that still feels retro today – even the wildlife. Birds whose populations are dwindling on mainland Britain – starlings, sparrows, swallows, blackbirds and song thrushes – don’t just flit all around in the Scillies; some eat out of your hand and perch on pub garden tables to peck at crumbs. And red squirrels (they’ve never had the grey invaders here, nor many other mainland mammals) have been successfully introduced to the Abbey Gardens on Tresco.

Another link with the past is the Cornish gigs, the early lifeboats that once rowed out to pilot ships or rescue the survivors from the hundreds of vessels that have been wrecked in these rock-infested waters. Now, gig racing on the open seas is the “national sport” and intrinsic to the Scillonian identity. Catch a race if you can – and then join the boaters for the inevitable raucous night in the pub that follows.

The rhythm of the day is dictated by the timetables of small ferries that join the islands, and these in turn are dictated by the tides. The easiest way to discover the Scillies is to take a morning boat and spend the day island-hopping (return fares from £8.60, circular trips from £13, kids half price). Journey times and distances are short, so wherever you are you can usually see the other islands, which adds to the intimacy of the place.

As for the beaches, there are so many gorgeous ones there isn’t space to mention them all here. You are rarely more than 10 minutes’ walk (and often far less) from one of the finest beaches in the UK – and there’s a good chance you’ll have it all to yourself.

Just one word of warning: while the Scillies offer all the romance of visiting a foreign land, the cost of getting here and of some of the accommodation means it can also be as expensive as holidaying abroad. On the plus side, there is little tat and no brash “attractions” to waste your money on, and camping and taking the ferry rather than the plane will make it affordable. The costs of eating and drinking are roughly the same as on the mainland. Many families return year after year, and have a deep connection with islands.

St Mary’s is every visitors’ first stop: it’s where all planes and the daily boat from the mainland arrive. It is the largest island, and home to 80% of Scillonians, but I still managed to cycle around it in four hours (£12.50 a day, bookabikeonscilly.co.uk ), including stops at the iron age and Romano-British settlements at Bant’s Carn and Halangy Down, and the bronze age burial tombs at Innisidgen. Scilly has a greater concentration of historical sites than anywhere else in Britain.

I also stopped off at the Old Church in Old Town to see the grave of former prime minister Harold Wilson, who loved Scilly and visited every summer (Lady Wilson, now 99, still does). The grave is modest (though, interestingly was the only one in the cemetery with posh, fresh flowers), but not nearly as modest as his nearby summer house, which is inconceivably tiny for a prime ministerial residence .

On the way back to Hugh Town, “capital” of the Scillies, I stopped for lunch at Juliet’s Garden . To my mind there are few pleasures to beat eating fresh seafood with a glass of crisp white wine in the sun with a view of the sea, and Scilly was made for this. Juliet’s Garden overlooks a rocky outcrop, boats in the harbour and, beyond, the islands of Tresco and uninhabited Samson. Caught-this-morning crab is a speciality, and a perfect match for the excellent house white (Cépage Colombard Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne), which, unusually, is not the cheapest on the wine list – and it shows.

Going one better, in terms of proximity to the water if not views, is Spero’s , a cafe in a wooden boathouse right on the sand at lovely Porthmellon beach. A sample crab and prawn cocktail hit the spot, though I imagine almost anything would taste good in a setting like this.

On the other side of Hugh Town is The Star Castle (£102pp half-board, star-castle.co.uk ), the Scillies’ grandest hotel. In the form of an eight-pointed star on a rocky peninsula, it was originally a fortress built as defence against the Spanish Armada and the pirates who frequently sacked the islands. There are a few rooms in the castle – including cosy singles in the four converted guard rooms on the ramparts – and spacious modern garden rooms in the grounds.

The hotel has two restaurants, one in the castle, the other in a conservatory built around an old vine that trails across the ceiling. The latter is the place for a blowout: its sublime four-course seafood menu (£39.50) was not only the best thing I ate on this trip, it’s the best thing I’ve eaten this year.

Owner Robert Francis spends his mornings fishing and catching lobsters to serve in the restaurants, and hopes diners will soon be drinking his wine, too. Six years ago he planted 7,000 pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris vines at Holy Vale (tastings £17.50pp) in the centre of the island. This is Britain’s most southerly vineyard and its first wine, about 3,000 litres, is being bottled right now.

At the moment his entertaining tasting sessions (with not a hint of oenological snobbery) focus on his favourites from around the world but, fingers crossed, visitors will soon be sampling local whites, too.

No less ambitious a venture, in its own way, is Peninnis Farm Luxury Camping (“tents” sleep six, from £535 a week). To call this a glamping site undersells it: picture a field dotted with seven comfortable, tastefully designed three-bedroom holiday homes – only with walls and ceilings of canvas. It’s a very green project, offering state-of-the art biomass heating, an “honesty freezer” of pork and sausages from the farm’s pigs, and a picnic field looking down to the sea.

I stayed in the Atlantic (doubles £80 B&B), a traditional seaside hotel whose rooms, restaurant and terrace overlook Hugh Town’s pretty harbour. There is also a campsite on the Garrison (from £9pp), next to the Star Castle; and Sibleys has a range of self-catering properties across all the islands.

I enjoyed St Mary’s but the moment I got off the boat at St Agnes (population 73), the “big island” felt like mainland Cornwall in comparison. On St Agnes’s quiet quay, 15 minutes by boat from St Mary’s, sits a lovely old pub, the Turk’s Head , and there may be a golf buggy to carry bags and visitors on the narrow “road” (more of wide path really) to the far end of the island. We walked it and in 10 minutes were at Troytown Farm Campsite (£9 adults, £5 kids, tents from £2).

This is the real Land’s End, as those camping here are, temporarily, the UK’s most south-westerly inhabitants. It’s a beautifully isolated spot right on the water’s edge, with its own small sandy beach and views of a few small craggy islands. There are five bell tents each sleeping four, equipped with airbeds, stoves and camping furniture (from £320 a week) and two comfortable two-bedroom cabins, one sleeping four, the other five (from £630 a week).

Even if you’re not a camper, it’s worth the journey to Troytown for the farm’s ice-cream, made with milk from its own small herd. All the flavours are delicious (I loved the four berries sorbet) but the rose geranium – made with flowers from the next-door farm and tasting like a creamy Turkish delight – is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. I can’t believe it’s not being entered for competitions, never mind only being sold on Scilly.

Coastguards Cafe , in the centre of the island has a flower garden, more fantastic ocean views and serves the island’s seafood staples: fresh crab sandwiches and smoked mackerel paté. Two or more evenings a week the cafe becomes the highly regarded High Tide (three-course dinner around £30), run by Kiwi chef Mark Eberlein.

Tresco is home to the Abbey Gardens (£12, kids free, open daily 10am-4pm), the Scillies’ biggest single attraction and one of the most magnificent gardens in the UK, or indeed anywhere. The proximity of the Gulf Stream means mild, frost-free winters that allow sub-tropical plants to thrive – the gardens were famously described by novelist Walter Besant as “Kew with the roof off”. It is ablaze with exotic flowering succulents in yellow, pink, red, purple and blues, plus towering palm trees, from 80 countries, as far afield as Brazil, New Zealand and South Africa.

Don’t miss the Valhalla collection of 30 ships’ figureheads, all rescued from the sailing ships that perished on the rocky archipelago over the centuries. The carved wooden figures are worthy of a small museum of their own.

The gardens were created by Augustus John Smith, who bought the lease to Tresco from the Duchy of Cornwall in 1834. Tresco is still privately owned – today by Robert Dorrien-Smith, a descendent of Augustus – and as a result feels very different from the other four inhabited islands. It is a little too manicured for my tastes, a sleek, well-oiled operation that attracts higher-end tourists. Many of these love the place so much they return year after year, often to the same cottage (many of them are timeshares).

It doesn’t feel staid though, and some of the newer cottages, such as the Flying Boat Cottages (sleeping 10, from £1,475 a week in low season, but a whopping £5,250 in high summer) and Sea Gardens (sleeping six to 10, from £1,615 a week rising to £6,550, plus one-bedroom cottages from £300 a night) are bang on trend, with a breezy New England feel, all off-whites, pale blues and greens, smart whicker furniture and original, well-chosen artwork.

The cheapest option is the New Inn (£55pp B&B), where I stayed, which has simple, all-white twins and doubles above a pub that does good food and has a decent selection of Cornish beers. Despite the island’s exclusive nature, the New Inn still feels like a proper, lively pub, particularly later in the evening when the island’s army of young seasonal workers congregate and wake the place up. They all seem very happy on Tresco, too. “It’s a bit Dirty Dancing up in the staff quarters,” one of them told me with a wink.

If the middle of Tresco feels like a well-heeled holiday camp, with people zipping around in golf buggies, the northern, heather-covered end of the island is wild, bleak and wonderfully empty. A walk up to the ruins of two forts, King Charles’s Castle and Cromwell’s Castle, built in the mid-17th century in case of a French invasion, gives a real sense of the islands’ history.

St Martin’s

Even by Scillonian standards, the beaches on St Martin’s (population 142) are spectacular, and often listed as among the best in the UK. Scilly Seal Snorkelling (£44pp for a three-hour trip including wetsuit hire), based in a shed at the end of Par beach, took me out to the Eastern Isles to bob around with the seals for an hour. The seals aren’t fed or encouraged to interact with humans; they are just naturally curious and playful. One nibbled at my flippers, and another did a double somersault while fixing me with a “Let’s see you try this, landlubber” gaze.

Everyone I met on St Martin’s was happy about the recent arrival of Dom and Emily, the new owners of Sevenstones Inn , the island’s social hub. They have completely gutted and revamped the interior, though no work needed to be done on the garden, which may well have the best views – across the blue sea to the other islands – of any pub garden in the country. Post-snorkelling, I sank a couple of well-kept pints of Sharp’s Atlantic pale ale and ate delicious potted crab (the doorstop meet sandwich of ham, salami, mozarella, pesto and salad looked pretty inviting, too).

The jury is still out on another, very different, arrival to the island: the swanky Karma Resort (doubles from £175 B&B), whose other outposts are in exotic places such as Jaipur and Bali. The location, smack bang on the beach, is unbeatable, but I thought it lacked atmosphere, perhaps because it is still awaiting a container of fittings and furnishings from Bali to complete its transformation from a hotel built to look like a row of Cornish cottages to the luxury resort it aspires to be.

Two excellent features in the hotel bar caught my eye, though: the first was an Italian Enomatic wine vending machine containing 10 bottles of high-end wine for sale by the glass or even mouthful. Next to this is a turntable and stack of old vinyl. Who doesn’t like acting the DJ after a few glasses of wine?

At the other end of the scale, is St Martin’s campsite (from £10pp) which is well sheltered, sitting in a dip below the sand dunes and shielded by the sort of tall hedges that can be seen all over the islands to protect its flower farms – once a big, but now declining, industry here.

Nearby is the workshop of Fay Page and her partner Rob, who make beautiful silver jewellery. The handmade items – shells, fish, flowers, tiny boats, Scilly cowbells – are all inspired by the local surroundings and have a lovely, tactile texture.

Alas, I didn’t make it to Adam’s fish and chip shop (it only opens twice a week in low and mid-season) but I’ve heard such good things about it I can’t not include it here. Two years ago Guardian reader intheglen wrote: “Adam is a fisherman and catches the pollack by line (in a boat he built himself) during the day, then fries them (in a restaurant he built himself) in the evening. The fish comes with chips from organic potatoes grown by Adam’s brothers … Ventures like this will help keep Scilly going.”

Bryher (population 92) is perhaps the most beautiful of the isles. Its west side is truly wild (next stop Newfoundland), and the crashing rollers and jagged rocks of Hell Bay were a notorious spot for shipwrecks. It is home to one of Scilly’s classiest hotel-restaurants, the Hell Bay Hotel (from £120pp half-board or £85 B&B), which is run by the owner of Tresco and is designed along the same bright and airy line as properties on the neighbouring island. My spacious sea-facing room had floor-to-ceiling windows which opened on to a small private garden with views over two rocky bays and a lagoon.

The Crab Shack opened in the hotel grounds last year and is a must for seafood lovers, at least ones who don’t mind getting their hands dirty. You choose a crab (ranging from enormous at £20 to “I’m gonna need a bigger table” at £40) and a flavoured butter to slather it in, and are given an apron and a pair of crab crackers. I spent a good hour coaxing every morsel out of mine.

The crabs are supplied by the Penders family, who have been fishing here for over 200 years. This year they have set up Island Fish , a shop/supplier selling seafood straight from the boat, and also dressed crab, lobster baps, salads and lasagne, fish pie and crab quiche.

Next door is the friendly Vine Cafe , serving sandwiches, homemade cakes and cream teas in a former bulb shed. Two or three times a week owner Cath cooks a set three-course dinner (booking essential). I missed this, but she cooked steak and kidney pie, her signature dish, to “sample”, as I’d already eaten lunch. It was so good I polished off the lot.

It felt like half the island was gathered at the Fraggle Rock Bar and Café for Friday night fish and chips. I ordered mine but had to wait an hour – enough time to work up an appetite by walking the coastal path round the wild, north end of the island. Bryher Campsite (£10.25pp) is up this end, too.

Bennett Boatyard hires out kayaks, motor and sailing boats to explore Bryher’s hidden beaches and neighbouring islands. As well as being fun, this is a sensible option in summer when the islands are busy and there can be queues for the ferries.

A good place to head when it rains is the island’s community centre , which typifies the trust and openness I found everywhere in the Scillies. There’s no one there to run it but anyone can go in and, for a £1 donation, browse the old photographs and library, and play on the pool and ping-pong tables, or in the small children’s playground outside.

• Isles of Scilly holidays
• United Kingdom holidays
• England holidays
• Cornwall holidays
• Beach holidays

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A 7 Day Isles of Scilly Itinerary for Active Travellers Who Love Island Adventures

This 7 day Isles of Scilly itinerary is part of my comprehensive Isles of Scilly travel series. If you’re looking for Scilly accommodation recommendations and activity reviews check out my series of Isles of Scilly travel guides .

The Isles of Scilly is an archipelago of Eden-like beauty. Sitting just 28 miles from the coast of Cornwall their unique sub-tropical micro climate has cultivated a landscape that would look just as at home in the waters of the Caribbean as it does on the fringe of the British Channel. Life here hasn’t changed much in decades, there are no traffic lights, no motorways, and no fast food chains, better still, you don’t need a passport to travel here.

My stay in the Isles of Scilly was sponsored; this article has been published in partnership with Isles of Scilly Travel. All opinions expressed are my own.

Sound heavenly? Having spent a week exploring the islands myself I can highly recommend the destination for active travellers who love adventure. This post outlines the itinerary I put together for my stay ; want to follow in my footsteps? Keep reading.

If you’re planning an Isles of Scilly itinerary check out my other Scilly travel guides below and feel free to get in touch via my contact page if you can’t find the information you’re looking for.

Day 1 – Getting to the Isles of Scilly

14:03pm Depart from London Paddington aboard GWR service to Newquay – change at Par.

Unless you live in the south west, or are planning to drive to the ferry in Penzance I’d recommend booking onto the GWR service that connects London Paddington to Devon and Cornwall. If you want to make the most of the opportunity to work/relax during the journey I can highly recommend the GWR first class service; the seats are spacious and comfortable and every seat has a table. The ticket price also includes an at-seat service of free sandwiches and snacks, and alcoholic and soft drinks.

7:30pm Check into the Great Western Hotel in Newquay

Depending on where you’re travelling from you may find that you need to book an overnight stay on the mainland before catching a flight or the ferry to the islands. I chose to fly from Newquay as it had the most direct train route from where I live , and the Skybus flight out to the Isles of Scilly is just 30 minutes.

If you’re travelling via Newquay the great Western Hotel is a great bolt hole for the night . Just a 10-minute walk from Newquay station their ocean view rooms are well appointed for an overnight stay and offer a spectacular panorama of the surrounding coastline. Check availability here .

Day 2 – Skybus fom Newquay to St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly & one day St Mary’s itinerary

6:45am – Taxi from Great Western Hotel to Newquay Airport

The easiest way to get to Newquay airport is by taxi, mine cost £20 one way from the middle of the town. Check in for Skybus flight opens an hour before departure and you’ll be subject to all the usual security checks so don’t forget to put your liquids in your checked baggage.

8am – Skybus flight from Newquay to St Mary’s Isles of Scilly

Once you get through to the departures lounge the Skybus team will give you a safety briefing, this happens before you get onto the plane as it’s such a small aircraft! If like me you’re not that great in confined spaces I’d recommend taking a phone or tablet and plugging yourself into your favourite TV series or a movie and trying to zone out prior to take off.

The flight is really comfortable and is over before you know it , plus the pilots are really friendly and you get to look over their shoulder into the cockpit which is pretty cool!

Check current prices and availability of the Skybus here .

8:45am – Transfer to Longstone Lodge, St Mary’s

My chosen pad for my week on the islands, Longstone Lodge is ideal for budget conscious travellers who are looking for a clean and comfortable place to stay. My room was modern and cosy but to be honest with you, I hardly spent any time in there as I was out exploring for most of the day: If you’re looking for value for money Longstone Lodge won’t disappoint.

The on-site café serves up excellent snacks and lunches, and if you don’t fancy cooking in the evening there are homemade meals available in the freezer by the reception. Find out more at longstonecafe.co.uk

9:30am – Walk into Hugh Town – 2km

The great thing about the Isles of Scilly is that the islands are largely pedestrianised so unless you have trouble walking short distances I’d make the most of the opportunity to get your step count up each day.

Electric golf carts and bikes are available to hire on the island ; these are a great option if you plan to do a self-guided tour of St Mary’s. There are also taxis on St Mary’s as well as a community bus service.

10am – Hire a bike from St Mary’s Bike Hire

Whether you’re planning to stay on St Mary’s for the duration of your trip (don’t do this, the other islands are well worth a visit) or you have a multi-island itinerary, taking a day to explore St Mary’s is a must. There are so many points of interest to take in as you wend your way around the island’s single track lanes and to be honest, you really can’t get lost.

Get in touch with St Mary’s Bike Hire here .

The one piece of advice I could give you is to head east when you leave Hugh Town as the gradient is more forgiving if you’re not used to cycling!

For more insight into things to see and do check out my handy St Mary’s island guide here .

12:30pm – Lunch at Juliet’s Garden

Spend the first few hours cycling down the dead end lanes that lead toward to deserted beaches and secluded coves, and then meander toward Juliet’s Garden for lunch. The views over Hugh Town from the balcony are spectacular and the food is fresh and delicious. Try the homemade ginger beer if you need a pick-me-up. More details on their website .

2pm – Wine tasting at Holy Vale Vineyard

After a morning of somewhat strenuous activity treat yourself to a wine tasting at the cellar door or Holy Vale Wines . Producing their own wine, and offering selected European bottles to sample you can wander through the vines in the sunshine with a glass of something crisp and fruity in hand. I actually bought a bottle to take back to my room for evenings when I wanted to cook something myself rather than go to a restaurant.

3pm – Make your own gin at Scilly Spirit Gin School

If gin is more your thing book into the Scilly Spirit Gin School and spend the afternoon with owner’s Art and Hilary who will give you a crash course in distillery. Details here .

5:30pm – A pint of Cornish cider at The Atlantic

If you’re feeling so inclined, after you’ve returned you bike to St Mary’s Bike Hire wander into Hugh Town and sit on the deck of The Atlantic with a cold pint of Cornish cider and some bar snacks . Here you can watch the fishing boats bobbing about on the tide and people wandering along the water’s edge. It’s a quintessential Scilly scene.

6:30pm – Buy basic supplies from the Coop

The great thing about staying at Longstone Lodge is that you can self-cater as many meals as you want , so pick up some essentials at the Coop in Hugh Town before heading back to Longstone Lodge. You can also get cashback here or grab some cash from the Lloyds cash point next to the post office.

7pm – Walk back to Longstone Lodge and sample their homemade suppers

The facilities at Longstone Lodge are modern and well maintained, however after a full day exploring the island you may not fancy buying ingredients to cook from scratch, so consider trying one of Amy’s frozen homemade dinners . In the freezer by the reception you’ll find hearty favourites like chilli, lasagne, and Shepard’s pie, all of which are really tasty. Cook for 45 minutes from frozen and eat on your balcony with a glass of Holy Vale wine whilst watching the sunset.

READ MORE ISLES OF SCILLY TRAVEL GUIDES BY WANDERLUSTERS

Day 3 – One day St Martin’s itinerary

8am – Breakfast at Longstone Lodge

Raid your supplies and whip up a breakfast that will sustain you until lunch.

9:15am – Walk into Hugh Town to St Mary’s Boatman Association

Every morning the ferry schedule for each island is written up on a board in Hugh Town and it’s here you should head when you first arrive. The ferries don’t usually leave much before 10am but it’s a good idea to get down to the quay in plenty of time as there can be quite a queue depending on the season.

10-10:30am – Ferry to St Martin’s

The crossing is around 20 minutes and depending on the wind direction it can get pretty cold regardless of whether the sun is shining so take an extra layer just in case.

11am – Walk to Higher Town

There are two quays on St Martin’s which the ferry captain’s use depending on the tides and wind so you may be dropped at either Higher Town or Lower Town quay. Regardless, your first port of call should be to walk to Higher Town. Here you’ll find a café, bakery, and art gallery as well as a shoemaker’s and organic veg stall. Have a snack and grab something to put in your pack for later here because it will be a while until you have the chance to pick up food again.

12:30pm – Check into Seal Snorkelling Adventures

I have to say this was definitely my favourite of all the activities I experienced in the Isles of Scilly. Over the course of your three hour experience you’ll be outfitted with a thick wetsuit, boots, hood, gloves, and snorkel, and be ferried to a small group of outlying islands to swim with Atlantic grey seals.

I can honestly tell you the experience of swimming with these majestic creatures felt like a real privilege and the fact that Seal Snorkelling Adventures is such a small operation that only run groups of max 10 people twice a day, makes it a sustainable way to interact with some of the island’s most notable residents . Check out a video I captured of two seals playing just metres in front of me.

3pm – Walk to the Daymark

You may have already noticed the red and white striped daymark that denotes the eastern end of island?  The daymark is built on the highest point of St Martin’s — and the second-highest point in the Isles of Scilly — and the islands’ only Ordnance Survey triangulation station is situated by the daymark; the position and relative height mean that the Cornish mainland is visible (when the weather allows) and the daymark is identifiable from the mainland too.

If you’ve got time before the last ferry service – usually 4:45pm – and the energy to make the trek, walk along Par Beach and pick up the trail that wiggles amid the undergrowth out to the coast. The views across St Martin’s and its outlying islands are beautiful and the coastal cliffs which loom on the opposite side of the island, most impressive.

3:30pm – Walk to Lower Town Quay

Don’t linger too long at the Daymark as you’ll need to walk the entire length of St Martin’s to get down to Lower Town Quay in time for the last ferry service back to St Mary’s . The walk isn’t particularly challenging but you will need to leave an hour as the route is around 3km.

4:30pm – Get refreshments at Karma Hotel

If you have time, grab a drink and sit on the veranda of the Karma Hotel before you board the ferry.

6pm – Head to the Bishop and Wolf for a pizza

Relax and refuel before the walk back to Longstone Lodge with a freshly made pizza and a glass of something cold. Eat in the beer garden or takeaway and sit on nearby Porthcressa Beach.

8pm – Walk back to Longstone Lodge

Day 4 – One day Tresco itinerary

9:15am – Walk into Hugh Town  and pick up a St Mary’s Boatman Association ferry service to Tresco

10:30am – Arrive at the southern quay on Tresco and walk north along Carn Near road to Tresco Abbey Gardens

11am – Explore Tresco Abbey Gardens .

Described as “a perennial Kew without the glass” the gardens are home to thousands of exotic plants from all over the world and boast simply beautiful floral designs that represent the island’s incredible diversity. Make sure you spend some time on the top terrace where you can enjoy ocean and island views of Tresco and St Mary’s. I also bought a couple of their succulent seedlings which I carefully transported home and am cultivating in my kitchen!

12pm – Walk to Old Grimsby for lunch at the Ruin Beach Cafe

Exit the gardens, through the gift shop 😉, and turn left, then right at the T-junction. This will take you on a scenic coastal route up the eastern edge of the island along Pentle Bay . Here the waves crash on the shore and the wind whistles along the sand, yet countless species of plant and animal thrive. Walk for around 45 minutes and you’ll reach the settlement of Old Grimsby.

1:30pm – Lunch at the Ruin Beach Café

A stylish beach side eatery with a rustic wooden terrace the Ruin Beach Café serves up sizable plates of seriously yummy food . I opted for the superfood salmon salad which was so plentiful I couldn’t finish it, and Fred opted for a stone baked pizza which looked equally as appetising. Sit here and enjoy the view for a while, it’s totally therapeutic.

2:15pm – Walk the Gimble Porth track to Cromwell’s Castle

Although I’m sure you’re feeling like you’ve seen enough coastal views for the day, believe me when I tell you that the best is yet to come . Leave the Ruin Beach Café and turn right at the signpost to follow the Gimble Porth trail north. This route starts in much the same vein as the last stretch from the Abbey Gardens but quickly elevates onto rugged sea cliffs that look almost Scandinavian in appearance . Stick to the trail and soak in the views, but make sure to walk at a reasonable pace as the last ferry back to St Mary’s will leave at around 4:30pm.

4pm – Have a pint at The New Inn

As you descend into New Grimbsy, windswept and worn out head toward The New Inn where you’ll find Cornish brews and local ice cream with which to refuel . From here its just a short walk to the quay where you can pick up the ferry back to St Mary’s. When I was there, there was a lady selling fresh eggs, bread, and pastries on the quay – I can vouch for her chocolate brownie, it was divine!

4:30pm – Catch the ferry back to St Mary’s

7pm – Fish and chips on Porthcressa Beach

When eating your pizza from the Bishop and Wolf you may have noticed the two takeaway food trucks parked by Porthcressa Beach. One serves up freshly caught fish and chips, and the other tasty Thai food. If you don’t fancy a pub supper (the fish burger at The Mermaid is pretty good and comes with fried seaweed), grab a bite by the sand and sit a while as the sun goes down.

9pm – Walk back to Longstone Lodge

Day 5 – Kayaking with The Sailing Centre and explore the Garrison, St Mary’s

9am – Enjoy a lazy morning, you’ll be tired after the last three days of active adventure. Grab breakfast at Longstone Lodge and wander in Hugh Town at your leisure.

10am – Explore the Garrison

With a history that spans 350 years, the defences of the Garrison on St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, form one of the most remarkable and impressive coastal defence systems in England . Wander around the garrison walls and soak in the views of islands Tresco and Samson’s windswept coastline.

12:30pm – Lunch at The Fudge Shop (next to St Mary’s Bike Hire)

Yes, I know it’s called The Fudge Shop but they sell pasties too! Try their maple bacon sausage rolls and traditional Cornish pasties , you won’t be disappointed!

2pm – 3 hour kayak adventure with The Sailing Centre

You’ve probably already noticed The Beach restaurant at Porthmellon Beach, just before the final incline before you reach Hugh Town when walking from Longstone Lodge: It’s here you’ll find The Sailing Centre . Offering a range of watersport activities including guided excursions and craft-only hire you can easily spend an hour or three floating about along the coast of St Mary’s.

5:30pm – Walk back to Longstone Lodge to shower and change

8pm – Sunset supper at The Beach

The Beach was by far my favourite place to eat on St Mary’s. In my Tripadvisor review I gave five stars all round for this BBQ surf and turf restaurant which serves fresh island fayre in an upmarket beach shack. The grilled lobster is a must as are their mussels, and their cocktail list, which includes a few specials that change weekly, is excellent. Highly recommended for supper as the sunset views over the water are some of the best I’ve ever seen .

Day 6 – One day St Agnes Itinerary

9:15am – Walk into Hugh Town and pick up a St Mary’s Boatman Association ferry service to St Agnes. Pack a few snacks as you probably won’t reach your lunch spot until 2pm.

10:30am – Arrive at the southern quay on St Agnes and set off on a walk along the coast path. If you head west you’ll pass the quiet cove Porth Killer and Big Pool, Burnt Island is reachable at low tide from here – look out to sea and you’ll see the iconic Bishop Rock lighthouse. Now you can choose to retrace your steps and head to the Turks Head for lunch, or continue around the coast path passing the campsite at Troytown and the farm shop. To make sure you reach the pub in time for lunch cut through the middle of the island and into Middle Town , you’ll pass the white lighthouse- Coastguards and the small dwellings before meeting back up with Middle town.

2pm – Lunch at the Turks Head

This is a great stop for hearty pub meals using fresh local ingredients and the views from the outside seating are some of the best on the islands . After lunch take a stroll to the sandbar 5-minutes walk from the pub, from here you can connect to the island of Gugh at low tide.

2:30pm – Stroll along the sandbar and cream tea at the Coastguard’s Cafe

If the weather is fine, make time for a paddle or swim in either side of the sandbar, the waters are calm and crystal clear – ideal for first time swimmers . Your next stop is a 15-minute stroll from the beach, take a left at the top of the hill and head for a cream tea at the Coastguards café (if you haven’t already been there; the terrace looks out to the Western Rocks and the famous Bishop Rock Lighthouse in the distance.

7pm – If you’re tired, head back to Longstone Lodge and make the most of the opportunity to chill out on the balcony and enjoy one of their brilliant homecooked meals. Alternatively, you could sample the fish and seaweed burgers at the Mermaid pub near the quay in Hugh Town , the restaurant itself is a little tired but it offers a beautiful view over Hugh Town Bay and has some historic Scilly artefacts on display.

Day 7 – Skybus from St Mary’s to Newquay, and GWR train service home

10am – Check out of Longstone Lodge and have a coffee and cake in their café whilst you wait for your shuttle to the airport.

12pm – Skybus flight from St Mary’s to Newquay

2pm – GWR train service to London Paddington

Follow in my footsteps and explore the Isles of Scilly with this epic 7-day Isles of Scilly itinerary! If you have any questions about exploring the islands or booking accommodation in the Isles of Scilly leave a comment below or get in touch via my contact page .

Bon Voyage!

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This is a great itinerary! Really looking forward to exploring the islands in April although it looks like the seal snorkelling is permanently closed 😢 The foodie recommendations are already making my mouth water! Did you book ahead before you arrived on the islands? Thanks so much for sharing your adventures!

Hi Rachel, thanks for getting in touch. We did book ahead for the seal snorkelling – I’ve just spoken with the tourism board and they’ve confirmed that the Seal Snorkelling company now has new owners and you can book here – https://www.sealsnorkellingadventures.com/ . We also booked our accommodation in advance but everything else we booked from Longstone Lodge. Have a brilliant time! I hope you get blue sky days when you’re there!

Nice article! hope you enjoyed your trip to the fullest.and thanks for sharing some useful information that will help us to make our trip more conveniently.

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Simple Flying

Review: flying on a 40-year-old isles of scilly skybus twin otter.

As part of a recent trip to the Isles of Scilly, I had the opportunity to fly on a 40-year old de Havilland Canada DHC-6 'Twin Otter' turboprop. These 19-seaters are the largest aircraft in Isles of Scilly Skybus's fleet, which also includes the eight-seat Britten Norman BN-2 'Islander.' My trip from Land's End to St Mary's with the airline was eventful but memorable.

The airline and its routes in a nutshell

Isles of Scilly Skybus is a small regional airline headquartered in Penzance, in the far southwest of the UK. It plays a vital role in connecting the Isles of Scilly to the British mainland by flying to the archipelago's largest and most populous island, St Mary's. Its parent company is the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company, which provides a ferry-based link.

The airline serves St Mary's (ISC) from three destinations in the southwestern counties of Devon and Cornwall. Exeter Airport is the carrier's most distant destination, with flights from St Mary's taking an hour. These services operate from March to November. Meanwhile, Newquay is served on a year-round basis, with a flight time of half an hour to St Mary's.

However, Isles of Scilly Skybus's most prominent route is the 20-minute hop between St Mary's and its main operating base at Land's End Airport. Tomorrow alone will see 12 departures on this route, all of which are fully booked. In fact, OAG reports that Land's End-St Mary's was the UK's busiest airline route in April 2021 (compared to 31st in April 2019).

Stay informed:   Sign up  for our daily and weekly aviation news digests.

COVID-19 policies

As with any trip report in the current climate, it is worth considering the extent to which the ongoing coronavirus pandemic impacted the nature of the journey. The UK government lifted COVID-19 restrictions on July 19th, leaving it up to individual transport companies to implement and enforce their own policies regarding aspects like masks.

In the case of the Isles of Scilly, operators serving the archipelago have elected to retain the previous policy of mandatory face coverings onboard. The islands have managed to keep case numbers low, and the BBC reports that they didn't have their first COVID-19 case until September 2020. Isles of Scilly Travel (covering air and sea services) explains:

" Face coverings will remain mandatory across all our services until further notice. This is to protect our passengers, staff, and the Isles of Scilly community ."

The airline's policy is understandable, given the limited scope for any form of social distancing onboard small aircraft like the Twin Otter and Britten Norman Islander . That being said, visitors to the islands are not required to take a test before traveling. The airline also offers passengers refunds or transfers if guidance prevents them from traveling.

A delayed departure

Unfortunately, our trip with Isles of Scilly Skybus didn't get off to the best start. My partner and I were booked on the 11:20 departure from Land's End (flight IOS43), and arrived an hour beforehand on the easily bookable transfer bus from Penzance station.

At this stage, the small terminal building was comparatively busy, as poor visibility in the area had delayed or canceled all of the morning's flights so far. While this was frustrating, it was, of course, completely out of the airline's control. The waiting game began, and, in fairness, the terminal was a perfectly nice place to sit out a delay.

After a while, visibility improved enough for operations to commence. In the end, our flight was the second to leave, after the more heavily delayed 10:00 departure. We were called to the pre-flight briefing room just before midway, where a safety video was played.

Having walked the short distance from the briefing room to the apron, our aircraft, G-CBML, was waiting right outside. According to RadarBox.com , this particular Twin Otter is 41 years old. Clambering aboard the old turboprop, it became evident that the cabin's low ceiling wasn't too forgiving for my 6-foot frame. Also onboard was a dog, who had no such issues.

As seen above, my partner and I were seated in 3A and 3B. These spots were to the right of the 1-2 configured cabin. Interestingly, row 4 had no seats, but rather a pet box, in which sat the aforementioned canine passenger. The plane left the stand just after midday, around 45 minutes behind schedule. However, the delays were not over yet.

A second delay

Owing to the delayed start to the day's operations, our flight was the aircraft's first on the day in question. As such, it was subjected to a series of engine checks once we were onboard. These eventually revealed an unnamed technical problem, which forced the plane to return from the end of runway 25 to Land's End's all too familiar terminal building.

Once again, we found ourselves back in the terminal at Land's End, awaiting an uncertain departure time while staff looked to resolve the plane's technical issue. After around an hour's wait, we were called back to the briefing room at around 13:15.

It turned out that the technical problem had forced Isles of Scilly Skybus to remove the aircraft in question from service. Luckily, with Land's End being its primary operating base, a replacement was on hand in the form of G-BIHO. This Twin Otter was a shade younger than our original plane, but still a veteran nonetheless at 40 years old.

A short but stunning flight

Thankfully, G-BIHO did not have any technical issues, and its engine checks revealed nothing to suggest that the flight couldn't continue. Once again, we found ourselves at the end of runway 25, where we sat with the brakes on for a short while as the engines powered up. The result of this was immense acceleration when the brakes were eventually released.

At 13:30, Isles of Scilly Skybus flight IOS43 finally took to the skies above Cornwall. Although our cruising altitude was just 1,500 feet, much of our cruise took place in the clouds. These low clouds had been one of the reasons for the delays at the start of the day. Nonetheless, after not flying for nearly a year, I was thrilled to be airborne again.

Just after having settled into the cruise, the flight's crew came back on the PA to inform us that our descent into St Mary's was about to commence. This proved one of the more interesting stages of the flight, as we emerged from the clouds to be greeted with the sight of some of the archipelago's smaller islands off to our right-hand side.

We made a fairly steep approach into St Mary's, with the aircraft rocking ever so slightly from side to side as it did so. Nonetheless, our touchdown was smooth enough, and we were back on the ground at 13:44 after just 14 minutes in the air. Our eventful flight (and a special one for me as it marked the milestone of my 100th as a passenger) was over.

All in all, my partner and I spent the flight with smiles beneath our face masks. While the two delays were frustrating, the airline kept us well informed throughout. I also noticed that delayed passengers from much earlier flights were given food and drink vouchers.

Flights on Isles of Scilly Skybus between Land's End and St Mary's start at £93.25 ($130) one way . However, this can be reduced when booking a 'Fly+Sail' day trip itinerary, whereby you can fly to St Mary's and return to Penzance by boat for as little as £84 ($117) return .

This was the option that my partner and I took, and the day out as a whole was well worth the money despite the eventful start. Interestingly, the ferry back was busier than normal, as poor visibility had hit Land's End again that afternoon, causing further flight disruption. In any case, the experience as a whole is one that I would thoroughly recommend!

Have you ever flown on a DHC-6 Twin Otter before? Perhaps you've even done so with Isles of Scilly Skybus? Let us know your thoughts and experiences in the comments!

Guide to Visiting Isles of Scilly

The Isles of Scilly is one of the most popular places to visit in Cornwall and can get booked up quite far in advance during the peak months of the year due to its popularity.

A rare gem, Scilly has a sub-tropical climate meaning its sunny for much of the year and has stunning white-sand beaches with clear azure seas. Visiting the Isles of Scilly will make you feel worlds away from the mainland.

Getting to the Isles of Scilly

Just 30 miles off the coast of south Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly can be reached by ferry, plane, and helicopter. You do not need a passport to fly to Scilly if you’re a British citizen, but you do need a form of photographic ID (like a drivers license).

Flights run from Exeter , Newquay, and Lands End to St Mary’s, and the Scillonian III ferry takes passengers from Penzance to St Mary’s. If you arrive into St Mary’s but are staying on one of the smaller islands, you will need to get one of the local boat services when you arrive.

The helicopter flies from Penzance to both Tresco and St Mary’s.

The Islands of the Isles of Scilly + Things to Do

Choosing which island to stay on is the key to making your Scilly trip unforgettable. There are five inhabited islands and each one is totally different. My family all agree that each one has it’s own personality and vibe.

St Mary’s

St Mary’s is the main island and where most visitors stay due to its size, accommodation choices, and amenities in the (albeit small) town centre. There are plenty of beautiful beaches and great eateries, and the island is home to a host of local shops and boutiques which make ideal gifts for loved ones and activities for all the family.

You can take a tour of the Scilly Spirit Gin distillery and even sign-up for a Gin lesson, visit Holy Vale Vineyard, walk the St Mary’s Garrison Walls, explore the island by golf cart, hire bikes, take a sailing trip, swim with seals, or go horseriding. In the summer months there’s even an outdoor cinema. If art is your thing, make sure to visit the Porthloo Studios.

Tresco is the second largest island and the most popular with higher-end holidaymakers. Its known for its luxury accommodation and stunning Tresco Abbey Gardens . Stay in one of the island’s luxury rental cottages, the New Inn boutique hotel or the Sea Garden Apartments.

In terms of things to do, you can walk around the island and stop off at the two key historical monuments: Cromwell Castle and King Charles’ Castle. After your walk, visit Tresco Spa for some relaxation, and Tresco Gallery for a spot of art shopping. The Valhalla Museum and Tresco Abbey Gardens are the key attractions on Tresco and worth spending a few hours visiting.

Bryher is one of the smallest inhabited islands on the Isles of Scilly, and is probably the ‘wildest’ and most rugged island. Young Adult author Michael Morpurgo adores Bryher and has even set some of his books here.

Bryher has a very slow pace of life and the main things to do are beachcombing, bird-watching and walking. A visit to Bryher is not complete without dinner at The Crab Shack, and you must take some Veronica Farm Fudge home with you. Stay at the Hell Bay Hotel for a little slice of luxury.

St Martin’s

St Martin’s is the most popular island for beach lovers and watersports enthusiasts, with swathes of powdery white beaches and crystalline waters. Swim with seals, enjoy paddleboarding, or go sea-kayaking or sailing. Visit St Martin’s Vineyard, Thrown by Ty Ceramics, and Scilly Flower Farm in-between dips in the water at Caribbean-esque Par Beach.

Make the most of the goodies on offer at the bakery in Higher Town and St Martin’s Store, and don’t leave without visiting the SC Dogs Rum Distillery. If you’re into stars and space, stop by the Community Observatory, the most south-westerly observatory in Britain.

St Agnes is known for its peace and tranquility, and it’s tiny size. You can easily walk the entire island in less than a day. Discover the natural breeding grounds of the Greater and Lesser Black Backed Gulls and see puffins in May and June.

Head over to Gugh at low tide to see the Bronze Age Obadiah’s Barrow, or walk onto Wingletang Bay and Beady Pool – a wild swim in the sheltered bay here is fantastic or simply beachcomb for some shipwrecked venetian glass beads.

Dining on the Isles of Scilly

The Isles of Scilly is home to some really great restaurants and is becoming a bit of a foodie destination with fresh locally sourced produce. Although there are plenty of eateries to dine at, we have rounded up our favourites and the ones you really need to make time for.

The Mermaid Inn, St Mary’s

Situated at the entrance of St Mary’s Harbour, the Mermaid Inn is the Isles of Scilly’s most iconic public house. Traditionally the haunt of smugglers, pirates and fishermen the pub is still firmly connected to its maritime past.

Whether you’re just getting back from a boating day-trip, arriving on the Scillonian or staying on St Mary’s, The Mermaid is your first port of call where you will always find real ales flowing, quality cuisine, friendly service and a warm welcome.

The Crab Shack, Bryher

The Crab Shack is a very special place and a favourite with both locals and visitors. Set within an old stone barn in the rugged countryside of Bryher, The Crab Shack is open from May to September each year and provides diners with a communal seafood experience. The seafood is so fresh you might even meet the Fisherman – The Crab Shack source their crab from the local Pender family of Island Fish on Bryher.

Scallops and mussels to start. Salty-sweet Bryher crab is the main event – accompanied by seasonal salad, crusty bread, crispy fries and ponds of fragrant butter. Eton Mess or Cornish cheese to finish. Beer, red, white or rosé to quench your thirst.

Dibble and Grub, St Mary’s

Dibble and Grub is a low-key casual restaurant on St Mary’s serving beachfront Tapas at Porthcressa beach on St Mary’s. The bright dining room has beautiful views of the bay and they even have a beachfront terrace for alfresco dining.

Tapas, salads and filled pittas; the flavours of the Mediterranean fill their kitchen. All their dishes are freshly prepared from carefully sourced ingredients with emphasis on locality, sustainability, traceability and quality. Dibble and Grub also cater extensively for vegetarian and vegan diets and almost their entire menu is gluten free.

Ruin Beach Cafe, Tresco

Set right on the beach and crafted in the shape of a boatshed, the Ruin’s big thing is its wood-fired oven which brings a Mediterranean feel to Tresco. Try the pizzas, all cooked in the oven using wood from the island and often accompanied with veg from Scilly gardens. We love its relaxed vibe and no-fuss dishes.

Troytown Farm, St Agnes

Troytown Farm is THE best place to grab an ice-cream and is owned by the Hicks family who decided to buy a herd of Jersey dairy cows when the flower industry fizzled out. As well as selling their beautifully creamy milk, they turn it into ice cream, clotted cream and butter.

The standout ice cream is rose geranium, flavoured with plants grown on St Agnes. Make sure to try The Works, a large waffle cone with two scoops of ice cream, a chocolate or fudge stick and a dollop of clotted cream.

A Paradise Holiday Destination

Cornwall is home to some of the best beaches, but the Isles of Scilly is truly a special and idyllic destination to visit. The paradisiacal archipelago provides families and solo travellers with a peaceful and relaxing escape from the everyday with something to do for everyone.

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Hi fellow travellers

Alternatively we could go on a coach tour which gives us just five days in St Mary’s, but organises all travel from door to door, plus trips to different islands.

We’re torn between two extra days and independence or the security of being part of an organised coach trip.

We’re a couple in our seventies. Any advice gratefully received. TIA

14 replies to this topic

Boat trips between the islands is easy because the Boatmen’s Association run trips daily a bit like a shuttle service. Information about the trips is on notice boards on the quay and in Hughtown. They also have a website and Facebook page giving daily information.

May is a lovely time to go although the first and last weeks will be very busy because of the World Gig Championships and the bank holidays.

Personally I wouldn’t want to be tied to an organised tour. Scilly is wonderfully relaxing.

There are pubs and restaurants but I recommend booking a table well in advance. The most popular are fully booked weeks in advance. Last year I tried to book our favourite restaurant and it was fully booked six weeks in advance.

Which hotel is in the tour and which other one are you considering? You should book soon. Does the tour use the Scillonian?

Post back if you have any more questions - happy to help.

Check out the price from Exeter. We flew last year & the price from Exeter was very expensive compared to Lands End airport. So do check it out.

We drove to Lands End airport & had a night in a hotel & that was cheaper than flying from Exeter.

Enjoy, they islands are fabulous.

Thanks so much. We’ve booked the Bell Rock hotel for 6 nights. Really looking forward to it

I don’t think it really agrees which way round you do it apart from to say if the Scillonian is rough on the way back you aren’t wasting a day feeling poorly at the start of your trip. I’d have rather flown both ways.

Bell Rock is fine, I’ve not stayed there but had a lot of dealings with the manager through bookings I have made and the customer service is good.

Enjoy your stay!

I think you have probably done it the best way. Check the various parking options though. It is always expensive.

Coming back on the Scillonian is usually better than the outward journey. If you are not a good sailor make sure you take Stugeron or similar.

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Guide to the Isles of Scilly with kids

On the very southern edge of the UK, just off the coast of Cornwall , the Isles of Scilly are easily one of my favourite parts of one of my favourite counties.

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A collection of small islands – even the largest is less than 6 square miles – a visit to the Isles of Scilly with kids is like stepping back to a more relaxed time for a proper old-fashioned family holiday, in the best sense.

This is somewhere to get outdoors, to discover countless golden beaches, to take boat trips from one island to another, to take a deep breath and enjoy just being together. So if you’re planning a holiday to the Isles of Scilly with kids, here’s my guide with what you need to know.

Check out some of my photos of the Isles of Scilly if you need more tempting!

Contents - click to jump to a section

Isles of Scilly travel

There are five inhabited islands – St Mary’s, the biggest and the one most visitors will arrive at, as well as St Agnes, Bryher, Tresco and St Martin’s.

You can reach the islands by ferry, small planes or there’s also a helicopter service from March 2020.

There are also rail and sail options, teaming the ferry and a sleeper train if you don’t want to drive to Cornwall, as well as fly and sail options so you can combine different alternatives.

The Scilly Isles ferry, the Scillonian III , is the cheapest option and you’re less restricted in how much you can take on board. It sails from Penzance to St Mary’s, and takes around 2 hours 45 minutes, operating from March to November (weather permitting).

It’s a passenger ferry only: there’s no car ferry to the Isles of Scilly, so it’s not possible to bring your own car – realistically you don’t need it at the other end anyway.

If you prefer to fly, the small planes of the Skybus service hop from Land’s End and Newquay to St Mary’s year-round in 20 to 30 minutes, as well as flights to Isles of Scilly from Exeter between March and October.

We chose this option on our own family holiday to the Isles of Scilly, taking a train direct from London to Exeter and then a short taxi ride to the airport for the hour-long flight.

Even though you spend more time in the air, it cuts the journey to the station so was ideal with a three-year-old, to save a long train journey.

Read my full review of our Isles of Scilly flights and what you can expect as you travel to the Isles of Scilly

The new helicopter service runs from Penzance to St Mary’s and Tresco, so saves you a boat journey if Tresco is your final destination. It takes just 15 minutes, with flights six days a week.

From St Mary’s, boats run regularly to all the other islands – none are more than around 15 to 25 minutes from each other – so you can easily get to your accommodation (and explore the other islands during your stay). 

Each island operates its own boat service as well as regular water taxis: there’s no fixed schedule, thanks to the tides, so you need to check the blackboards or the Facebook and Twitter pages for the different boat companies – Visit Isles of Scilly has links .

Things to do on the Isles of Scilly with kids

One of the biggest joys about the Isles of Scilly is the freedom – although there are cars, none of the islands are particularly busy and it’s easy to walk or cycle around to explore – you can hire bikes if you don’t have your own.

There are also golf buggies to hire on St Mary’s plus boats running between the islands so you can pop over to the others on a day trip, as well as heading out to see to spot seals, puffins and dolphins, depending on the time of year.

If you’re visiting on a short break, or you want to get an idea of each of the different islands, the Calypso Boat tours are a great option – visiting three islands in one day, you get a taste of what there is to see, including some of the highlights such as the Abbey gardens on Tresco.

But there are plenty of other reasons to visit the Isles of Scilly: things to do to entertain toddlers and teens…

For more ideas of the best things to do in Isles of Scilly with kids , check out my top 16

St Mary’s

The biggest of the islands, you could set yourself the challenge of walking the whole way around the coast – not necessarily in one go, but even with younger kids, you can see a fair amount in a few days.

Along the way, there are ancient burial sites to discover, the island’s vineyard at Holy Vale wines and beaches galore plus some great views and kite-flying from the cliff path.

With its subtropical climate, check out the beautiful plants in Carreg Dhu Gardens – the sunken gardens are set in an old quarry. There are also buggy-friendly nature trails to wander.

Here’s what we found following a treasure trail around St Mary’s and on our walks around the island

Or you can simply settle in at one of the beaches – lovely Porthcressa is good for finding shells and also has a play area nearby, Porthmellon is another good spot for beachcombing plus it also has a Sailing Centre.

For more wide open sands, Pelistry is a definite contender for one of the loveliest beaches on the island too.

If you’re looking for things to do in the Isles of Scilly in the rain, St Mary’s also has the  Isles of Scilly museum – it’s free for under-fives, and has collections from Roman times, as well as later shipwrecks, plus information about local history and some artworks.

St Mary’s is also the point from which many of the boats depart to explore the other island. The  Boatmen’s Association boats run every day from to St Martins, St Agnes, Bryher, Tresco and uninhabited Sampson.

Times vary depending on the weather and tides, although there are usually two or three departures every day. Make sure you find out where the boat picks up though, as it won’t necessarily be the same spot that you were dropped off at!

We also headed out to spot seals on a glass bottomed boat trip from St Mary’s, adding a stop at St Martin’s along the way – read my full review of our Seaquest Scilly boat tour here.

The most south-westerly edge of the Isles of Scilly, little St Agnes is joined to neighbouring Gugh by a sand bar – you can walk across at low tide and the beach here was a great spot for finding sea glass and shells (or making sandcastles).

Further south, Wingletang Bay is home to Beady Pool, so named as you could find beads among the treasures from shipwrecks there, although you’ll be lucky to be able to today.

One of the most intriguing things to see on St Agnes is the stone maze, a circular pattern made using round stones. Thought to date as far back as Viking times, there are plenty of tales and legends associated with it – the pattern is believed to send sailors a fair wind.

You can also visit  Troytown Farm whose cows produce some very good homemade ice cream, as well as finding flowers galore, while the Turks Head is the heart of the island – a pub and shop.

Home to the islands’ best-known ‘attraction’, Tresco is also the only island to be privately owned – perhaps as a result, it has a slightly more chic feel. Laidback, but we’re talking barefoot luxury.

The Tresco Stores & Deli is also the place to pick up a few treats if you’re visiting. But the best-known thing to do on Tresco (deservedly) are the magnificent Tresco Abbey Gardens.

Created in the grounds of a 12th century priory in 1834, you can still spy parts of the old buildings as you wander round 17 acres with gardens themed on different parts of the world.

One of the quirkiest areas has to be Valhalla, the National Maritime Collection of Ship’s Figureheads, but one of my daughter’s favourites was the shell grotto.

And of course there are yet more beaches, as well as freshwater pools in the centre of the island which are perfect for bird watching. 

Rushy Porth Beach and Appletree Bay both have glorious white sand while Pentle Bay is renowned for being particularly safe.

Tresco is also home to the Isles of Scilly’s castles – Cromwell’s Castle , which sits on a rocky promontory between the island and Bryher. You can walk to it, including a climb down the stone steps and it’s free to visit.

The ruins of King Charles’s Castle are nearby, on the heather-clad hillside. Also free to visit, English Heritage has audio clips to download before you visit.

Wonderfully wild, Bryher is made for walking and wandering – stop and gaze out across Hell Bay as you look to the empty Atlantic beyond.

If you’d prefer a bit of paddling, head to the other side of the island and the beach at Church Quay.

Fuel up with some fudge from Veronica Farm, which also has wood-fired pizzas.

The Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust also runs events from time to time, including rockpool rambles (with a bit of beach cleaning along the way) and insect safaris. Check their website for the latest information on what’s running.

St Martin’s

One of my own favourites, the beaches here have to be seen to be believed – the curving bays and endless blues of the water could be straight from the Caribbean (although the temperatures are definitely pure Cornwall).

Start by Lower Town Bay – Lawrence’s Bay is simply gorgeous – while Par Beach at Higher Town Bay is another lovely option, and a little quieter when we visited.

As the island is two miles long, you can saunter around checking out your favourite cove though: there’s also a vineyard on St Martin’s – named The Vineyard, it’s open Tuesdays to Thursdays during the summer for tours and tastings.

Or for a glass of wine with a view, head to the Sevenstones Inn which looks down onto the bay.

You can also take boat trips out from St Martin’s to discover some of the uninhabited islands and their wildlife – we started our trip on the Seaquest glass bottomed boat from St Mary’s but there are itineraries running from this island too.

Check out my review of the Seaquest boat tour here…

You can even snorkel with seals if you’re travelling with kids aged eight or above – and Scilly Seal Snorkelling provides wetsuits too.

Where to stay on the Isles of Scilly with kids

Although the islands are small, there’s still a string of different types of family-friendly accommoation to stay in.

Several of the islands have hotels, including several in St Mary’s and on Bryher. There are also B&Bs and guesthouses to stay in, self-catering cottages as well as campsites and glamping.

It’s worth doublechecking as not all the accommodation – from hotels, including Hell Bay Hotel, down to glamping options – accept children.

If you’re travelling with younger kids, a stay in or around Hugh Town in St Mary’s is one of the easiest options – most transport arrives here, and some of the bigger hotels are very nearby.

We stayed at Tregarthen’s hotel  which has some family-friendly options including early tea for younger kids, a play room and various pieces of kit to borrow if you’re visiting with babies and toddlers especially.

Check out my review of Tregarthen’s Hotel  with kids following our stay

Star Castle Hotel has its own boatman to help you plan your beach hopping – plus some of the 38 rooms are in the old castle itself, although for most families, you’ll need the space of one of the garden rooms and suites.

Bell Rock Hotel also accepts families and has its own indoor heated swimming pool.

Peninnis Farm Luxury Camping has wooden lodges and is also dog friendly (outside peak times) – they sleep up to five, while kids can start the day by joining Farmer Dan to collect eggs and feed the animals in the morning

There are some great self-catering options on Tresco. If you’re splashing out, it’s hard to beat the Flying Boat Cottages on Tresco – the 12 five-star beachside cottages are built on the site of a First World War flying boat station (hence the name) and each sleep between six and 10 people.

Stays include entry to the Abbey Gardens and if you’re visiting out of peak season, you can get find deals.

Or check out Sea Garden Cottages on the east side of Tresco, which sleep four to 10, while the collection of Tresco Holiday Cottages also have options which also sleep up to 10 and are scattered across the island.

Self-catering is another great option on Bryher , although you’ll also find classic campsites on the island too – you can’t stay at the award-winning Hell Bay Hotel with kids alas.

But there are a couple of four-star cottage options with room for families, including Glenhope High and Atlanta, along with the chance to stay in a bell tent.

The only hotel on St Martin’s, Karma St Martin’s is set right on the beach, and children of any age are accepted too. There’s also a kids’ menu in the award-winning hotel Cloudesley Shovell restaurant – commemorating a rather fabulously named British Admiral.

For a review of a stay at Karma St Martin’s with kids, check out this post from blogger Katy at Otis and Us

And the island is also home to the only campsite in the Isles of Scilly to be awarded four stars by Visit England.

You’ll also find various options for self-catering cottages , including old farmhouses and converted stables to sleep in.

When you set foot on St Agnes, you feel even further away from the rest of the world than the other Scilly Isles – and so it’s perhaps not surprising that there’s also no hotel or guesthouse on the island.

There is a campsite at Troytown Farm , as well as a couple of self-catering options big enough for families, including The Croft and The Cottage.

Plan your trip to the Isles of Scilly

There’s no dedicated guide to the Isles of Scilly from Lonely Planet, but the islands are covered in their Devon and Cornwall guide .

Bradt also has a Slow Travel guide to Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly and there is a dedicated guide to the Isles of Scilly from Friendly Guides.

And while you don’t need to read fiction to know what to do on the Isles of Scilly, I’m a big fan of the Hell Bay series by Kate Rhodes.

There are currently four books in the series, and it’s perfect to pack for your trip (or to get a feel of the island atmosphere before you go… although with rather fewer murders in real life!)

For more ideas of some of my favourite things to pack, check out the Shop the Blog page as well as my Amazon influencer store .

You can also download my baby packing list , top toddler travel toys and travel first aid kit checklists.

PIN FOR LATER: GUIDE TO THE ISLES OF SCILLY WITH KIDS

Disclosure: Contains some affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may receive a small commission

Images copyright MummyTravels

Award-winning family travel blogger and mum to the mini traveller, aka Minnie. Together we've visited Europe, America, the Caribbean, Africa and Asia, tried a cruise and a road trip, and survived countless long-haul trips. London (UK) based. Serious beach habit.

Oh its absolutely ideal to take children to. I actually feel myself tense up when I’m keeping my eyes on my children especially walking along a busy road. To va-cay here I imagine would be almost peaceful.

Absolutely – it’s a very laid-back place, perfect for families

I would love to visit Tresxo abbey gardens. We have been discussing holidaying on the isles of Sicily this year. Thanks for a detailed post

Pleasure! They are gorgeous – hope you get there

Ooh – a peaceful, quiet island sounds very tempting right now! I really fancy the Scilly Isles. I haven’t been yet, but they’re high up my wish-list.

Very tempting! I think we all wish we could escape – the islands are perfect for feeling like you’ve got away from it all as well.

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Isles of Scilly Travel - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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Hi fellow travellers

Alternatively we could go on a coach tour which gives us just five days in St Mary’s, but organises all travel from door to door, plus trips to different islands.

We’re torn between two extra days and independence or the security of being part of an organised coach trip.

We’re a couple in our seventies. Any advice gratefully received. TIA

14 replies to this topic

Boat trips between the islands is easy because the Boatmen’s Association run trips daily a bit like a shuttle service. Information about the trips is on notice boards on the quay and in Hughtown. They also have a website and Facebook page giving daily information.

May is a lovely time to go although the first and last weeks will be very busy because of the World Gig Championships and the bank holidays.

Personally I wouldn’t want to be tied to an organised tour. Scilly is wonderfully relaxing.

There are pubs and restaurants but I recommend booking a table well in advance. The most popular are fully booked weeks in advance. Last year I tried to book our favourite restaurant and it was fully booked six weeks in advance.

Which hotel is in the tour and which other one are you considering? You should book soon. Does the tour use the Scillonian?

Post back if you have any more questions - happy to help.

Check out the price from Exeter. We flew last year & the price from Exeter was very expensive compared to Lands End airport. So do check it out.

We drove to Lands End airport & had a night in a hotel & that was cheaper than flying from Exeter.

Enjoy, they islands are fabulous.

Thanks so much. We’ve booked the Bell Rock hotel for 6 nights. Really looking forward to it

I don’t think it really agrees which way round you do it apart from to say if the Scillonian is rough on the way back you aren’t wasting a day feeling poorly at the start of your trip. I’d have rather flown both ways.

Bell Rock is fine, I’ve not stayed there but had a lot of dealings with the manager through bookings I have made and the customer service is good.

Enjoy your stay!

I think you have probably done it the best way. Check the various parking options though. It is always expensive.

Coming back on the Scillonian is usually better than the outward journey. If you are not a good sailor make sure you take Stugeron or similar.

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Our winter flight schedule operating out of Land’s End Airport is now LIVE and ready for bookings!

Scillonian III operational update — Delayed sailing on Tuesday 9th April 2024

8th April 2024

Due to operational reasons the Scillonian III scheduled departure from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly will be delayed on Tuesday 9 th April 2024.

The vessel will now depart Penzance at 13:00 and will arrive into St Mary’s at approximately 15:45.

Check in / embarkation will be open between 11:45 – 12:30. You will not need a new ticket to check in.

The return sailing remains unchanged and will depart St Mary’s as per the published schedule.

For those travelling on a day trip ticket, your booking has been cancelled. Please contact our Travel Centre on 01736 334220 to request a refund or to transfer your travel to another day.

We would like to take this opportunity to thank you for your patience and understanding.

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