trek 2.1 women's road bike

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Updated on September 12, 2011

Review: 2011 Trek 2.1

by punkrokk

Even though this is my first year ever having a road bike, I feel qualified after 1500 miles in upstate New York (and 25 miles in Vegas) to write a review on the 2011 Trek 2.1 .

So, what can I say about this ride? It’s awesome!!! First off, I must give props to my local bike shop, Full Moon Vista , for not only dealing with my over-researching of my purchase, but for helping me continually tweak my fit over the first few weeks I had this bike. From what I hear this is the standard with bike shops, but I was impressed either way.

So I bought this bike at the end of March, and by the middle of June had over 700 miles on it. Once the bike fit properly, I am hooked on this bike! Once I learned a few of the road biking basics, such as keep your tires inflated to 110, oil your chain all the time, and get some biking shorts, this ride has been nothing but pleasant. This is no $5K road bike, but I can’t tell the difference. If you are making the transition over to a road bike from a mountain bike, yes you will have an adjustment period, but this is the bike to do it on!

The Shimano 105 components are 1st class, I am now a better shifter, but as I was learning to shift appropriately, I definitely pushed these 105s. The wheels have been awesome through my early days of underinflated tires. The stock tires didn’t do it for me and I’m not sure if they just wore out or what, but I replaced them with some kevlar tires after about 600 miles. They had started to crack and show wire.

The brakes, once adjusted after cable stretch, have been top notch, even as I get freaked out still by speeds over 30, and ride them all the way down steep hills.

If you’ve been riding for awhile, I don’t have to tell you the importance of bike fit, the 2.1 H3 54″ was the right fit for me, and after a bunch of adjustments to the handle bars to get my perfect angle, I am comfortable with every handlebar position on this thing.

The ride: my first 800 miles or so, I was feeling wobbly going fast down hills. Guess what it was? The wheel reflectors! What a difference removing those was! I am now to the point where I am relaxed going down a hill at 30 miles an hour and what a relief! I was thinking all that work going up hills wasn’t going to be worth it! All in all at any speed, going up and down hills, and on the flat, this ride is just smooth smooth smooth! The gears (50/34 crank, 11-28 cassette) are perfect for me. The only thing is I find myself never leaving the 50 crank, and frequently going up to the 28 on the cassette. But even there this runs smooth (I have the compact crank, although there was a triple available) The carbon fork really does make a difference ( I test rode a road bike without one ) and even the seat, which isn’t always an easy fit, was perfect for me right out of the box.

The only thing I had to add on to the bike was a rear light, and I was good! I would have loved the red paint job, but only the silver version was available in the H3, but I’m growing to like it!

If you are looking for a first road bike, want to spend around $1300 (trek has a sale every spring) you should check out this bike! There are ton’s of bike shops everywhere that stock these, and for the money vs. performance price point – this is a GREAT first road bike! Just like Bruce’s Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3 Ultegra  this bike makes you want to ride all the time! OK — off to find a radio so I can listen to the Bills game while I ride this afternoon!

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Category: Front Page , Gear Tags: reviews , trek , trek 2.1

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At a glance

Trek’s 2.1 C boasts Trek’s lightweight 200 Series aluminum frame along with a road-carving, vibration-damping Bontrager carbon fork for a ride as efficient and fast as it is smooth and precise. It’s built with a compact SRAM Apex drivetrain so you always have the perfect gear, dual-pivot brakes for excellent stopping power and Bontrager’s easy-rolling wheelset. Plus, this fine roadster sports a tasty selection of Bontrager components, such as the comfy Affinity seat and Race Lite seatpost. Let the 2.1’s quality, craftsmanship, and responsive ride inspire you to new speeds and distances.

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Specifications

Q: how much is a 2012 trek 2.1.

A 2012 Trek 2.1 is typically priced around $1,430 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

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The 1.2 is the middle of Trek's three 1 Series aluminium road bikes, sitting between the Shimano Claris-equipped 1.1 (£575) and the 1.5 (£750), which comes with Shimano Tiagra components.

Is it the right bike for you? We've picked out four reasons why it might be, along with a reason that might make you think twice.

1 It provides solid performance with few surprises

The 1.2 puts in a solid performance out on the road, offering a stable, predictable ride, the only real disappointment being the lack of braking power (see below).

Hitting the scales at 9.48kg (20.9lb), the 1.2 isn't as lively as many lighter bikes, but for £650 this is certainly a decent enough weight. Compared to bikes of a similar price, it accelerates well. You'll find a little more flex in the frame and fork than in higher level models in Trek's range, but this is a bike that's well capable of holding its own when you crank up the power.

You could't say that the 1.2 is the fastest climber but it's far from sluggish when things get lumpy. It's helped in its hill-climbing endeavours by a compact chainset (with 50-tooth and 34-tooth chainrings rather than 52 or 53 and 39). Most bikes of this price come with something similar these days. Matched up to an 11-28-tooth cassette, it'll allow you to get up the vast majority of gradients without your knees popping or your lungs bursting, while still providing enough big gears to keep you bowling along quickly on the flat and downhill.

Aluminium frames have a reputation for feeling harsh but that's a gross generalisation. Some are jarring – as some carbon frames are – but plenty aren't. This bike is certainly comfortable enough for racking up the big miles.

For a start, it comes in Trek's H2 fit. That requires a brief explanation. Compared to Trek's H1 fit, H2 has a taller head tube: 3cm taller in the case of our 58cm test model. Why? It puts you into a more upright riding position with less strain on your lower back and neck. You could achieve a similar position by adding a bunch of headset spacers on an H1 bike, but if you want your bars at that height, you're better off going for an H2 fit because the front end will be stiffer and the handling will be better.

The Bontrager Race VR-C alloy handlebar has a shallower drop than usual too: 124mm rather than the 145mm you get on Bontrager's Race Lite Classic, for example. That means it's that much easier to get down on the drops. A lot of people have a bar with a deep drop and rarely take their hands off the hoods.

The other reason for the comfort is that the 1.2 is inherently pretty smooth. Sure, there are plenty of bikes out there that will filter our more road vibration but this one does a decent enough job on that front. Swapping the 23mm tyres for 25s would add more comfort but this bike isn't crying out for them by any means.

The Bontrager Gel Cork bar tape provides good cushioning for your hands and the Bontrager Affinity 1 saddle has plenty of padding too. Truth be told, I found it a little too soft, verging on squidgy, but everyone has their own taste when it comes to saddles.

2 You get a neat, well-proven frame and fork

All three bikes in the 1 Series share the same 100 Series Alpha Aluminium frame. It's fairly busy looking with a squared off upper edge to the down tube that makes it resemble that of Trek's more costly Madone.

The top tube slopes towards the seat tube junction and tapers down as it does so, and slim seatstays provide compliance at the back.

You get mounts for a mudguard and a rack back there too. They'll be useful if you want to ride the bike year round and perhaps carry stuff to and from work on a daily commute.

You don't get the oversized bottom bracket or tapered head tube that are regular features designed to add stiffness to higher-end performance bikes, but this is a £650 bike and the frame is good for the money. The welds are pretty tidy throughout and the same can be said of the paint job.

The fork is Trek's own with carbon blades and an alloy steerer. Like the frame, it comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards that will save a lot of faffing.

It's worth noting that the Trek 1.2 is available in eight sizes from 47cm up to 62cm. That range will cover nearly everyone.

3 Shimano's Sora shifters and mechs are excellent for the money

Nine-speed Sora is Shimano's fifth tier road groupset (if you don't count the electronic variants) and it offers fantastic value for money.

Back in the olden days (before last year), you changed gear on Sora by pushing the brake lever to the side or by using a small thumb lever on the side of the shifter body, depending on the direction you wanted to shift.

Now, though, Sora levers are Dual Control, so instead of that thumb lever, there's a lever tucked behind the brake lever. It's the same design that Shimano use right up to top-level Dura-Ace and it's a big improvement, making it far easier to change gear from the drops.

Resting your hands on the hoods is comfortable and there's a little gear indicator on the top of each of the levers that you might find useful. I can't say I ever checked them – I just couldn't get into the habit – but they're there if you want to.

Whereas the gear cables run underneath the bar tape on Shimano's higher level groupsets, they head out from the side of the levers with Sora and loop around to the frame in the fresh air. That's certainly not a problem from a functional point of view, although visually it's a less tidy way of doing things. That's being picky, though. Sora shifting has taken a massive leap forward with this latest design. It works very much like the highest level offerings from Shimano, just adding a little weight. Even there, the difference isn't massive.

Trek don't give you a complete Sora groupset here, just the shifters and mechs. The chainset is FSA Vero, a square taper design that does its job just fine, and the brakes, as mentioned, are unbranded.

Most other big brand bikes at this price, such as the Giant Defy 3 (£649) and the Felt F95 (£649), have Shimano Sora components too. It's worth comparing the spec sheets to see exactly how they match up, but don't buy a bike solely on that basis.

4 Bontrager's wheels and other components are good, reliable kit

The wheels are made up from Bontrager's own alloy hubs, containing cup and cone (rather than cartridge) bearings, and Tubeless Ready http://www.bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready rims. That means you can run the wheels without inner tubes at some point in the future, although you'll need to upgrade to Tubeless Ready tyres first.

The tyres that come fitted as standard are Bontrager's T1s (700 x 23). They're some pretty hefty rubber, made for durability rather than all-out speed, but they're reasonably resistant to punctures and they hold the road well even in damp conditions.

I had no problems at all with the wheels during the month-long test period. They're not the lightest wheels ever, taking some coaxing up to speed, but they're still as round and as true as they were out of the box, and there's a lot to be said for trouble-free operation. Fast wheels aren't so fast when you're standing on the side of the road trying to remove a broken spoke.

Most of the rest of the kit is no-nonsense stuff from Bontrager too, the handlebar, stem and seatpost being reliable alloy options and the Affinity 1 saddle providing at least as much cushioning as most people will want.

And the compromises

There are no two ways about it, the 1.2's brakes are disappointing. Trek have put the Shimano Sora theme to one side here and specced nameless dual pivot callipers that lack bite. Don't get me wrong, they're consistent and they'll stop you, just not as quickly as you might like. You have to engage the brakes for a bit longer than normal or pull the levers a bit harder to get down to your desired speed.

You adjust to this within a ride or two and don't really think about it until you ride with people who have better brakes on their bikes, or jump back on to a bike with better brakes yourself. Then you're struck by the contrast.

Swapping the brake pads helps, but the bottom line is that these brakes are a compromise to make a price point and, for me, they're the weakest aspect of the entire bike.

Other compromises? There's nothing that really stands out. Trek offer a decent all-round package here.

The Trek 1.2 is a very good bike for the money. The frame and fork are sound, reliable options and the Sora shifters and mechs are better than anything previously available for this kind of cash. They're a great example of the benefits of trickle down technology.

Yes, if you pay a couple of hundred pounds more you'll get a lighter bike that leaps into life more eagerly when you up the intensity for a sprint or tough climb, but that's always the way. As it is, the Trek 1.2 is a very able road bike that'll reward your efforts with decent speed, and it's comfortable enough to ride all day long. The fact that it comes with mudguard and rack eyelets increases its versatility, so you can use it as a year-round workhorse if that's what you're after.

We'd have no hesitation recommending this bike for someone after their first proper road bike, or for anyone else looking for plenty of value.

Very good value, ideal for anyone looking for a first real road bike, with just the brakes as a low point

road.cc test report

Make and model: Trek 1.2

Size tested: 58

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame 100 Series Alpha Aluminium

Fork Trek carbon road

Sizes 47, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm

Front hub Bontrager alloy

Rear hub Bontrager alloy

Rims Bontrager Tubeless Ready

Tyres Bontrager T1, 700x23c

Shifters Shimano Sora, 9 speed

Front derailleur Shimano Sora

Rear derailleur Shimano Sora

Crank FSA Vero, 50/39/30 (triple)

Cassette SRAM PG-950, 11-28, 9 speed

Pedals Nylon body w/alloy cage, toe-clip/strap

Chain KMC X9

Bontrager Affinity 1

Seatpost Bontrager Alloy, 2-bolt head, 27.2mm, 8mm offset

Handlebar Bontrager Race, VR-C, 31.8mm

Stem Bontrager Elite Blendr, w/computer & light mounts, 31.8mm, 7 degree

Headset 1-1/8" semi-cartridge bearings

Brakeset Alloy dual-pivot

Accessories

Bar tape Bontrager gel cork tape

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Trek say: "1 Series aluminium road bikes feature the same aero shaping and race-ready detail as our top-end bikes. They're strong, light, and built to fly over the pavement," [Trek, being from the US, use "pavement" to mean the surface of a road rather than a path].

Frame and fork

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

It's a tried and tested frame built to a high quality. The same goes for the carbon leg/alloy steerer fork.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

The frame is made from aluminium: what Trek call 100 Series Alpha Aluminium.

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

The 1.2 is built to Trek's H2 geometry that I've explained in the body of the review. Essentially, it's slightly more relaxed than a full-on aggressive race position, but it's still speed orientated.

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

It's a little taller at the front end than a traditional low and stretched road bike.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

I found it comfortable both in terms of ride position and ride quality. It's certainly a long way from being a bone shaker.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

It's not mega-stiff but it's not too flexy either.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I found the saddle a touch too squidgy for my taste, but I'd rather that than too firm.

In all of these marks, I'm comparing the bike to similarly priced alternatives.

The drivetrain

Wheels and tyres, your summary.

Did you enjoy riding the bike? Yes.

Would you consider buying the bike? It would certainly be on my shortlist if I was after a bike at about this price.

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? I'd recommend it should be on their shortlist too.

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

Nearly all big brand bikes at this price have these features: aluminium frame, fork with carbon legs and alloy steerer, an incomplete Shimano Sora groupset (chainset and brakes being the most frequent omissions), in-house aluminium handlebar, stem and seatpost. If you simply compare spec lists, you'll see that the 1.2 comes out better than some and not quite as well as others.

However, we'd caution against making a decision based solely on a comparison of spec sheets. We've not reviewed all of the 1.2's chief rivals, but we can tell you that this bike will provide you with a very good all-round performance, the brakes being the only real low point.

Overall rating: 8 /10

About the tester

Age: 43   Height: 190cm   Weight: 75kg

I usually ride:    My best bike is:

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Most days   I would class myself as: Expert

I regularly do the following types of riding: commuting, club rides, sportives, general fitness riding,

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Mat has been in cycling media since 1996, on titles including BikeRadar, Total Bike, Total Mountain Bike, What Mountain Bike and Mountain Biking UK, and he has been editor of 220 Triathlon and Cycling Plus. Mat has been road.cc technical editor for over a decade, testing bikes, fettling the latest kit, and trying out the most up-to-the-minute clothing. He has won his category in Ironman UK 70.3 and finished on the podium in both marathons he has run. Mat is a Cambridge graduate who did a post-grad in magazine journalism, and he is a winner of the Cycling Media Award for Specialist Online Writer. Now over 50, he's riding road and gravel bikes most days for fun and fitness rather than training for competitions.

Add new comment

13 comments.

I'm riding this bike now for over 6 years. Inexpensive when bought for  €600. Needed maintenance about 2 years ago which was about €400 (new wheelset, cassette/chain/cabling etc). I've replaced the 700x23-tyres by 700x25-tyres a long time ago without changing anything else. Works like a charm.

Great value for the money but brakes could indeed be better. Meanwhile looking to add a new bike (and use this one solely on the Tacx) with disc-brakes.

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The current Trek 1 Series bikes have plenty of clearance for fixed mudguards, even with a 25mm tyre. The 2013 1.2 had little clearance, and this was because Trek used the 2 series frame for that particular year. I'm guessing evo_playa has one of these. Agree that SKS Raceblade Long guards are great. The lack of availability is due to a redesign - SKS are developing the new version to allow for bikes with disc brakes. I gather they won't be available until this autumn at the earliest. UK distributors sold out of the old versions months ago.

Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

Tin Pony wrote: Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

The 8 speed Sora front and rear Derailleurs on my Trek are long since worn out and were replaced with Claris just before the winter kicked in. It works really smooth with no problems - even on the old Sora shifters with thumb button.

I've had the 2011 1.1 with shimano 2300 (remember that?) for just over 4 years now, and it certainly scrubs up well. Even with just 2300 and a different wheelset I've raced on it for a couple of years to some success, it certainly doesn't feel like it holds me back, which is very impressive for such a cheap machine. In fact, I like it enough to complete the change to 5700 groupset in the spring.

I can't say I ever had a problem with the brake calipers, and I can't tell the difference between the alloy calipers and the Shimano long drop calipers having swapped them out- they are certainly good enough.

However, I'm not a fan of the H2 fit with the massive head tube- I hate long head tubes and was lucky to get mine before they were introduced.

Excellent winter trainer and commuter. My 2007 Trek 1.2 is still going strong - it's had a few minor changes but still has the Sora 8 speed with thumb button - oh and a pannier rack!

It's still a lovely bike to ride and recommended first road bike.

Not a racing bike. Sit up and beg.

WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Mike T. wrote: WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Quite. I can't really understand why they'd have clearances so tight, seems unecessary. It may be that 25mm tyres would work with some mudguards already mentioned, but probably not full guards that also help keep crud off the chainset especially in winter.

Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets.

Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

As ever, SKS Raceblade Longs. Sorted.

KiwiMike wrote: craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

Tried quite a few including SKS chromeplastic ones.

edit: tracked them down, looks like instock here : http://www.tredz.co.uk/.SKS-Race-Blade-Long-Mudguard-Set_51833.htm

Fairly simple and inexpensive to swap out the substandard brake calipers.

I upgraded my Trek 1.1 to Shimano non series long drop brake calipers and the difference in braking was amazing.

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Trek Madone 2.1 review

Alloy edition of a famous carbon name

Tom Ballard / Immediate Media

Tom Ballard

Thanks in part to its association with That Texan and a long pedigree of superbly performing bike models, the Madone name is one of the best-known in road cycling. It’s perhaps a bit of gamble then for Trek to slap the branding of its most famous carbon bike on an aluminium-framed machine – but has it paid off?

The sub-£1,000 price point is one of the most hotly contested. With an update to 11-speed Shimano 105 shifters and a price drop to £900 for 2015, the Madone 2.1 holds its own against online-only competition. It’s a solid bike for those who aspire to own the Madone label without handing over £5,900 for the carbon version.

Related: Best bikes under £1,000

• Highs: Decent gearing, handles well, do-it-all geometry, stiff frame
• Lows: Chatters over rough roads, cut-price brakes, a bit heavy

Ride and handling: buzzy but reliable

In Trek’s world, we’ve got the Domane for comfort, the Emonda for climbing and the Madone for racing fast – but the aluminium 2.1 isn’t really a flat-back, head-down racer. The H2 geometry means a taller head-tube (150mm for our 54cm size) for a more upright position than the carbon H1 models. It’s comfortable without stretching, you can tuck low easily and you don’t feel like you’re going backwards when sitting up.

It's officially a Madone, but not as we know it

This means a do-it-all setup that enables you to get on with riding and offers assured control in almost every scenario. Whether you're whipping around tight bends, holding stable in crosswinds or adjusting a line when flashing downhill, the 2.1 offers fuss-free handling that’s neutral and reliable.

This isn't to damn it with faint praise though. Lack of excitement when it comes to handling isn’t a bad thing – you can hold plenty of speed around corners, descend with confidence and relax to enjoy riding.

Unfortunately, the ride quality can endanger that fun at times though. We’ve got a feeling Trek had an image of the bike zipping along a perfectly smooth highway when the 2.1’s frame was designed.

Take the Madone for a spin on good roads it feels sensational, holding its speed well despite the resistance of fairly heavy wheels that make accelerations suffer. Whether or not the internal cabling and flat-backed KVF (Kammtail Virtual Foil) down tube shape aid aerodynamics, it certainly feels fast and satisfying when you’re pushing towards a PB.

Internal cabling is impressive at this price

On the other hand, rougher surfaces really dent the fun, the carbon blades of the tapered fork doing little to calm the chattering vibrations through the frame at the front end. Descending on imperfect lanes proved the biggest worry, with jolts forcing bum and saddle separation and the continued staccato vibrations then battering the backside as the bike skittered downwards – even with only 110psi in the tyres.

This isn't going to happen every time you take on a descent, but it’s a pity that the well-behaved and otherwise planted handling can sometimes come unstuck because of this lack of ride smoothness, creating a tense riding experience. To try and combat this we’d put some suppler 25mm tyres and a carbon seatpost on the upgrade list.

On the uphills though – terrain upon which the Madone performs well for a bike weighing 8.9kg – it's a refreshingly different story. Especially when riding hard, the 2.1’s stiffness gives a quick response and unhampered power transfer when stamping out authority on climbs. With the spot-on geometry and wide gear range, it’s just as adept at helping you spin to a summit too. The front end feels light – and even a bit twitchy with hands on the tops – and while you can feel the weight a bit at the back end, there’s no sense of frustration that the bike’s holding you back.

Frame: fancily formed aluminium

The Madone 2.1 uses Trek’s top-grade Alpha 200-series aluminium, which thanks to hydroforming techniques has allowed for the flattened top tube and KVF down tube shapes, the latter of which being essentially an aerofoil shape that’s had the back cut off, increasing stiffness and decreasing weight while aiding aerodynamics.

The KVF shaping on the aluminium Madone takes its cue from its carbon-frame brother

The flat shapes also give a smooth, clean look more akin to a carbon frame, though the overall look and shaping remains a far cry from the carbon Madone. The rest of the tubing is a more traditional cylindrical shape and is welded fairly inconspicuously. The oversized BB86.5 bottom bracket means no external bearing cups and allows the wider BB junction that aids stiffness to give the bike its punchy power transfer.

The gear cabling is internally routed, entering at the top of the down tube and exiting at the bottom bracket for the rear derailleur. The rear brake takes a more conventional course under the top tube. This isn’t really too much of a disappointment – as any internal routing at this price is a bonus – but it just reminds you far removed the alloy Madone is from its illustrious namesake.

The head tube is tapered for increased front-end stiffness, which was remarkably solid throughout testing. The accompanying fork features carbon blades, complete with KVF trailing edges, and an alloy steerer – standard at this price point. It also includes a built-in SpeedTrap module for transmitting speed and distance data to a head unit via a Trek computer sensor and spoke-mounted magnet. In addition the 2.1 comes complete with mudguard mounts on fork and frame.

Equipment: savvy selections for 11-speed value

For 2015, the Madone 2.1 makes the leap to 11-speed with Shimano 105 shifters, allowing a wide, largely gap-free gear range when accompanied by the matching 11-28 105 cassette. There’s no skimping on the derailleurs either, which are 105 too, though there’s an RS500 five-bolt 50/34 compact crankset rather than the gorgeous new four-bolt design that’s trickled down from Dura-Ace and Ultegra. Shifting performance was flawless throughout and until Shimano’s high-end groups go 12-speed, there’s little to recommend them over these workhorse components.

Our only criticism of the drivetrain is in the internal BB bearings, which became sticky after a few weeks, stopping the cranks from turning as freely as they should. The brakes are also a bit disappointing, the un-branded calipers lacking the power of Shimano’s versions.

11-speed 105 on a £900 bike shows Trek's buying power

The 2.1 is supplied with Bontrager’s TLR tubeless-ready wheels, which have low-profile, slightly rounded rims that are 19mm wide. Like the rest of the 2.1, they’re solid and free from flex, but aren’t particularly light and didn’t do us any favours in drag sprints from standing, taking a while to get up to speed. They’re a good set of training wheels, but the bike could really fly on the flats and hills with an upgrade to a lighter set.

The Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite tyres, meanwhile, are 23mm wide and seemed fairly puncture prone, causing us grief on a few occasions.

The remainder of the finishing kit also comes from Trek’s component brand. The simple alloy seatpost has a red anodised clamp that matches the seat collar, gear hanger, odd headset spacer and stem top cap, giving a classy look. The stem itself is white to match the frame, but comes with a blue anodised faceplate. The bars are standard 31.8mm with a comfy compact drop, wrapped in white gel cork tape, which quickly became grubby.

The Bontrager Paradigm 1 saddle features a central cutout and was surprisingly comfy despite its rather squidgy padding, though an upgrade to something slightly harder might benefit riders going long.

So is the 2.1 really a Madone? No. It’s a fine aluminium bike that shows off Trek’s usual quality, but it’s so distant from the carbon models that it’s not really comparable. Sadly, the fact it is branded as such – inviting unfair comparisons – doesn’t do the 2.1 any favours.

When it comes down to it, the occasionally harsh ride is the one characteristic that poses the biggest question for potential buyers – do you really need the benefit of internal cabling and a more aero down tube for the kind of riding you’re doing?

If you’re going to be racing and want every ounce of power you can get your legs on, it may well be the winning choice, though it’s up against stiff competition from the likes of Giant and Boardman at this price point. If you want all-day, long-ride comfort or value distance over speed go for Trek’s Domane instead.

Check out the gallery above for more pictures of the Trek Madone 2.1.

Looking for a new bike? Get more buying advice from fellow riders in our forum. Head here to join the discussion.

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How to travel by bicycle in Russia: ideas and suggestions

• April 15, 2021
• Last updated: April 19, 2021
• Adventure , Destinations , Outdoor , Russia

Home » Travel Blog » How to travel by bicycle in Russia: ideas and suggestions

Day trips in Russia

Newcomers can test their “strength” on a one-day trip – the roads should not be complicated and the distances should not be too long. For first-time riders, study the route carefully, taking into account not only the length of the road, but also the conditions: there should be no long climbs and no high mountain passes. The flatter the road, the better. Do not ride close to crowded and busy large traffic lanes, even if conditions permit.  Also, make sure carry your Russian invitation letter with your visa . 

Route: Levutov – Pavlovsky town

Distance: 65 km

From Reutov (metro station “Novokosino”) outside Moscow, via Saltykovsk, Zheleznodorozhny, Fedurnovo, then turn to Biserovo, to Staraya Kupavna, then to Elektrostal via Ivashevo, and finally to Pavlovsky Posad via Subbotino, the intercity electric train This is a good route for newcomers to the town of Pavlovsky Posad (Vokhna or Pavlovsky Posad station).

This route is good for beginners: the terrain remains almost unchanged throughout the route. It’s mainly asphalt, but it’s quiet, with a rural landscape and few cars. Also, there are many intercity train stations along the way – if you get tired, you can take the train back to Moscow.

For the uninitiated, there are plenty of suitable roads around Moscow. The entire Moscow region is dotted with railway lines, so it is not necessary to make a circular route. You can take an intercity train to one station and back from another. There are many convenient route options around most Russian cities. You can make your own route, or take the advice of experienced travelers and use an already prepared route map.

Two-day trips in Russia

If you can travel 60-70 km per day, it’s no problem and you’ll be able to ride for two days. First of all, you need to solve your overnight problem: will you stay in a hotel, borrow a private house or pitch your own tent? Be sure to take the weather into account and take extra things that will keep you warm or heated.

When choosing your route, add some “hills” on the way, but not too steep.

Keep an eye on your bike. Ideally, it should be carefully checked and tested two days before departure; if you don’t know much about bike parts, you should have a full “car check” at a good mechanic’s shop to remove all faults in time.

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Route: ride along Nizhny Novgorod and rest on the Volga

Distance: 140 km

This is a self-guided route with picturesque Volga forests, where you will have to pitch a tent on the road overnight. You don’t have to think about the schedule of electric trains or buses, even if you are delayed on the way, don’t worry.

From Nizhny Novgorod, you will pass through the town of Bor (you can cross the Volga by cable car). Next, head to Ivanovskoye. On the way, note the unique, interlocking bi-level railroad: it is no longer in use, but the original structure is still there. Then go in the direction of Yurasovo, where you will turn to Maloye Utkino, then to Beryozovka, to Vypolzovo, then to the Volga River, to Apraksino, passing through the hill fortress with its ancient earthen embankment. Hillfort, which retains its ancient earthen berm.

After that, follow Orlovo, Belkino, Yamnovo, Zavrazhnoye, Selishi. After passing through Zhukovka, you can go straight through the forest to the bank of the Volga River and find a place to pitch your tent.

The next day, go in the direction of Pumra, then through Vagankovo, Orekhovo, Markovo, turn left at Matveyevka, go to Vatoma, then through Put’kovo and back to the banks of the Volga, then to the town of Pol, and then to Nizhny Novgorod.

There are many suitable two-day rides in the Volga Valley, around the Voronezh region, around the cities along the Golden Ring and in the Crimean steppe.

Multi-day rides in Russia

Riding for several days in a row is a very serious matter and you need to be physically prepared. For the first time, choose a route that is not too difficult and not extreme, because riding a few days in a row is not at all the same as riding 100 km in a week. Please estimate that it is more comfortable to travel 70-80 km per day on the plains and with much less hills.

Check to see if there are any settlements along the way – it depends on whether you’ll be carrying a lot of food, or if you can buy all your food along the way. But whenever and wherever you go, make sure you have drinking water on you. Please do not forget to constantly replenish your supplies and have an emergency reserve – about 1.5 liters of water per person. 

Route: “Crimean coast: from Kerch to Alushta”

Distance: 270 km , 5-7 days

We have intentionally divided the trip on this route into several days, as it depends a lot on your fitness and desire to visit the sights – which will be seen on the way, and quite a lot of them. There will be some mountain passes – if you feel tired as you pass them, it is always possible to set up camp early and prepare for an overnight stay. Almost the entire road runs along the coastline. If you don’t want to pitch a tent, you can easily find a place to spend the night in the resort.

Get off the ferry to Kerch and head directly to the Feodossia steppe. Pass through the town of Ordzhonikidze and head to Koktebel. Be prepared for a long and tiring uphill climb. If you don’t want to tire yourself out that much, then sacrifice some of the scenic views and take a different route – along the Simferopol highway.

From Koktebeli there is a difficult mountain road leading to Sudak. The strongest will can cycle to the town of “Novyi Svit” in one day, while the rest of the people should go to the village of Morske and then to Alushta via Rybache and Malorichens’ke. From Alushta, you can take a bicycle and a trolleybus to Simferopol, from where you can return by plane or return to Kerch by bus or taxi.

Pack & travel:

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• Best Walking Shoes For Women
• Best Rain Jacket for Any Travel Needs
• Best Backpacking Tent: The Ultimate Guide
• Vivobarefoot Stealth II: A Detailed Review

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• Published: April 15, 2021

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