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Lake Geneva’s beautiful paddlewheel boats – getting there is way more than half the fun

18/06/2019 By Le News

They say that “getting there is half the fun”. But sometimes it’s more. A lot more. For example: a Lake Geneva cruise on a grand historic paddlewheel steamboat. Destination? Who cares?

Belle époque vessel “La Suisse” © CGN

On a recent gorgeous Sunday afternoon, I, your intrepid reporter, along with my intrepid stepson and two intrepid nephews, provisioned with our intrepid bottles of wine, bread, cheeses and fruits, took a cruise on the stately Savoie , a svelte white steamboat that was first commissioned in 1914, and fully renovated in 2006 by CGN (Compagnie Générale de Navigation), which runs cruises all around Lake Geneva – see the full fleet here .

Belle époque dining room © CGN

Though tempted to splurge on the gourmet 3-course lunch, we knew we wouldn’t have time to enjoy it all since we also wanted to disembark in the beautiful French village of Yvoire. (OK, an enticing destination always helps.) So, after boarding with our First Class tickets, we asked the kind maître d’ in his starched black suit, where on the First Class deck we could lay out our picnic. He said he couldn’t offer us a normal table where lunch would be served, but suggested with a delightful conspiratorial whisper, that we head for the small tables at the front of the cabin. We did, and were soon toasting our good fortune to be sharing this fine nautical adventure together.

Before long we dispersed to roam the elegant old steamboat. I was mesmerized by the churning red paddlewheel you can watch through a porthole. Passengers can also stand at a railing and observe the open engine room just below, where every piece of the revolving steel and brass machinery is polished to a Swiss sheen.

Lavaux © CGN

In the window-lined restaurant area on the upper deck, diners enjoyed the gourmet lunch for this “Chef’s Table” cruise – lobster carpaccio with orange oil and carrot sorbet, chicken breast with fingerling potato fricassee and sautéed mushrooms, then a dessert of pistachio cake, hazelnut praline heart and passion-fruit sauce. All this with 5-star panoramas passing by from the middle of Lake Geneva.

On the decks outside the cabins, you find an international mix of visitors and locals leaning in to the breeze, soaking up the sun and snacking on chips, sandwiches and drinks they’ve purchased onboard. Most passengers are there for the first or second time, but some locals who live near the various towns along the lake where CGN boats stop, buy a cruise ticket as a scenic alternative to a day at a lakeside beach. One American expat said she’s been coming on Lake Geneva voyages for 50 years. She has the Swiss train system’s General Pass that allows access not only to trains, buses and trams throughout Switzerland at no additional cost, but also to the CGN boats.

Relaxing on the deck © CGN

The Savoie is one of five handsome Belle Epoque paddlewheel steamboats operated on Lake Geneva by CGN. Three other similar paddleboats run on diesel electric power. CGN also offers cruises on modern motorboats, including one with hydrojet propulsion.

But the grand Belle Epoque paddlewheel craft are the queens of the fleet. The 68-meter Savoie, which began plying the calm waters of Lake Geneva more than 100 years ago, stops at Geneva, Yvoire, Hermance, Nyon and other towns on its various cruises. CGN paddlewheelers also stop at towns farther east, including Lausanne, Montreux, Chillon, Evian and others.

We stopped at Yvoire to enjoy a second lunch of fresh perch from the lake at Hotel Restaurant du Port. Then we strolled the cobblestone lanes lined with boutiques and cafés, an all-too-brief interlude before the Savoie returned to take us home to Geneva.

Yvoire © CGN

I asked a crew member if we might visit the pilot-house and meet the captain. Soon, there we were, talking with Captain Patrick Schaffner, a CGN captain since 2012. He explained that it takes longer than we might think to turn around a 68-meter paddlewheeler. But he conceded that he has a very fine job indeed. “Sometimes we forget what a beautiful boat we have”, he said. Any passenger may ask for such a visit to the pilot-house. On a normal day with good weather, the answer is usually yes, though small children are not permitted.

Captain Patrick Schaffner © Bill Harby

Back in Geneva, the boat docked, and we disembarked. Just minutes later, the graceful Savoie pulled away, already churning up new memories.

Choose your Cruise CGN offers lots of cruise options: day or evening, gourmet meal or no meal, 1st class or 2nd, 35 various possible destinations all along the lake – or no destination at all.

There are gourmet cruises  that criss-cross the lake from various locations, and a Lavaux  wine tour , which includes sampling local vintages.

The gourmet cruise “ Patrimoine Tour ”, which starts in Lausanne and ends at the famous Château de Chillon, passes by the Lavaux vineyards, a  UNESCO protected area, with its numerous picturesque villages.

And, if you’re too busy working, there is no need to feel left out. CGN runs afterwork cruises  which leave Lausanne every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evening at 18:05.

For a full list of possibilities click here .

By Bill Harby

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See Historic Lake Geneva Paddle Steamers at the Naval Parade

The Belle Époque paddle steamboats cruising on Lake Geneva may be seen together at the annual Parade Navale on Lac Léman when all the historic ships meet up for a spectacular parade. The rest of the year these elegant boats cruise Lake Geneva on pleasure excursions.

CGN’s fleet of historic belle époque paddle steamboats cruises daily on Lake Geneva. CGN currently has five working paddle steamers and two further electric-powered paddle boats, which first entered service between 1904 and 1927, sailing on Lac Léman in Switzerland and France. Once a year, all paddle steamers gather together at the same venue for the Parade Navale display. This naval parade is held on Pentecost Sunday in May but the venue shifts annually between the ports used by Lake Geneva pleasure boats.

• The 2024 Parade Navale on Lake Geneva is scheduled for Vevey and La Tour-de-Peilz on Sunday 26 May 2024. 

Historic Paddle Steamboats on Lake Geneva

CGN operates a fleet of Belle Époque paddle steamboats on regular pleasure cruises on Lac Léman in Switzerland and France. Revealing their pre-1930s historic origins, these boats offer two classes of service: First Class passengers use the upper decks with the best views and smartest saloons while Second Class passengers are on the lower decks with smaller outdoor areas.

These elegant, graceful boats offer sightseeing, lunch, and dinner cruises from Geneva, Lausanne, Evian, and many further ports on the lake. Food and drink are available on all boats and are usually optional to the ticket fare.

Historic Belle Époque Paddle Steamers on Lake Geneva

CGN’s fleet of paddle boats includes seven boats in daily use while a further one is awaiting restoration.

The five Belle Époque steamboats in use are:

• SS La Suisse (1910) – the pride of the fleet. This elegant vessel can accommodate up to 850 passengers and currently sails twice daily between Lausanne and Montreux ( Chateau de Chillon ). Pick this boat if the schedule allows!
• SS Simplon (1920) – similar in size to the La Suisse and almost as elegant but with a much larger dining area. The Simplon can accommodate 850 passengers and currently sails between Geneva and Lausanne (and Evian). (It is due for another renovation by 2030.)
• SS Montreux (1904) – the oldest paddle steamer on Lake Geneva. The Montreux can accommodate 560 passengers and currently sails mostly from Lausanne to Montreux and Yvoire .
• SS Savoie (1914) – similar lines to La Suisse but smaller with space for only 600. The Savoie currently sails mostly from Geneva on lunch or dinner cruises and excursions to Yvoire . 
• SS Rhône (1927) – the Rhône returned to service in 2022 following a three-year restoration project. It mostly cruises the long Geneva to Lausanne route.

CGN has three further paddle Belle Époque boats on Lake Geneva but these are fitted with diesel rather than steam engines, which allow them to operate year-round:

• MS Vevey (1907) – this Belle Époque boat was launched in 1907 and received a diesel-electric engine in the 1950s. The Vevey returned to service in 2013 after a full restoration and currently cruises year-round on the Lausanne-Geneva route.
• MS Italie (1908) resumed passenger cruises on Lake Geneva in 2016, after a decade out of service. Like the Vevey, its paddles are powered by a diesel-electric engine. For half a century, the Italie crossed the full length of Lake Geneva from Genève to Le Bouveret twice per sailing day and although the new schedule is less exhausting, this beautiful boat will be in active service from Lausanne to the Riviera.
• MS Helvétie (1926) has been out of service since 2002. It was used as a floating temporary Olympic Museum off Lausanne-Ouchy, while the main museum was under renovation. The Helvétie is awaiting a full restoration and is expected to return to service in time for its centenary.

The Annual Naval Parade on Lake Geneva

Although it is easy to see, or cruise, on one of the historic paddle steamers on Lake Geneva, it is rare to see more than two together. However, once a year, on Pentecost Sunday (usually in May but moving yearly with the dates of Easter) all steamboats come together for CGN’s Parade Navale. The venue changes annually between the ports on Lac Léman.

At the Naval Parade, the paddle steamers usually steam by twice close to the lakeshore before all line up to release balloons. Afterward, the boats reverse at impressive speed before returning to their homeports. The parade is usually between 14:00 and 15:30 with boats departing from the furthest ports already around 10:00.

Viewing the parade from the quays is free and the host port will often erect pavilions and stands, which may be used for free to get a better view. The host port will usually offer free events, free museum entries, and other festival entertainment.

Special cruises on these steamers are offered on the naval parade day from many other ports on Lake Geneva. Reservations are highly advisable while reservations are required for meals on these cruises.

CGN has several further motor vessels operating as passenger ferries and pleasure cruise boats . However, as ticket prices are the same for the same distance covered, it is worth scouring the  CGN timetables  to rather cruise on one of these graceful steamers.

More on Lake Geneva Pleasure Boats and Cruises:

• Pleasure Boats and Ferries on Lake Geneva
• Lake Geneva Boat Cruises in Spring
• Passenger Ferries on Lake Geneva
• Book Cruises at GYG or at CGN
• Passenger Ferries and Cruises from Lausanne to Evian and Thonon
• Savings Tickets for CGN Lake Geneva Boat Cruises
• Summer Lake Geneva Boat Excursions and Day Cruises
• Spring & Autumn Cruises on Lake Geneva
• Winter and Christmas Cruises on Lake Geneva
• Pleasure Boat Excursions to Yvoire
• See the Historic Paddle Steamers at the Parade Navale
• New Year’s Eve Dinner Cruises on Lake Geneva

Home » All Lake Geneva Boats & Ferries » See Historic Lake Geneva Paddle Steamers at the Naval Parade

La Suisse - Belle Epoque - Paddle Steamboat

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La Suisse - Belle Epoque - Paddle Steamboat - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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Book a health or beauty treatment, purchase a gift voucher, exploring lake geneva.

Over 70 kilometres long, Lake Geneva is the largest freshwater lake in Western Europe. It's perfect for swimming as well as discovering its many beaches, and you'll find all manner of aquatic adventures: sailing, water skiing and stand up paddle boarding, to name a few.

A stunning natural environment

This crescent-shaped body of water divides its banks between the Alps and Alpine foothills on one side, and the vineyards of the Côte and Lavaux - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - on the other.

Lake Geneva never ceases to enchant its visitors and residents, whether they are on the Swiss or French side.

A meeting spot that's not to be missed

During the summer season, more than 100 sandy or pebble beaches welcome bathers and sunbathers to their shores. Numerous restaurants open their terraces and offer fillets of perch or féra, Arctic char and pike freshly caught in the waters of this lake of glacial origin.

But Lake Geneva knows how to charm its visitors whatever the season - whether in spring, when nature bursts into a thousand colours, under the magical lights of autumn, or in the soft winter mists. And this immense expanse of water changes colour according to the time of day, the sky sometimes merging with its waters...

A steam cruise on the lake

The CGN (Compagnie Générale de Navigation) has a unique fleet of 8 Belle Epoque boats, the oldest of which, the "Montreux", is a steamer built in 1904. A Belle Epoque cruise has to be the most elegant and comfortable way to discover Lake Geneva!

From April to October, all lines are open, but it is also possible to take the cruise in winter, especially between Geneva and Lausanne.

Our trip begins on the Quai du Mont-Blanc in les Pâquis at one of three piers where you can board a CGN boat, a mere five minutes from the Bristol.

As soon as you enter the ship, you are struck by the impressive machinery that powers the Savoie. Launched on 7 January 2014, this refined and elegant ship was completely renovated in 2006. It is the only preserved unit of the "60 m" series with a classic steam engine.

The moorings are cast off and the powerful engine of almost 1,000 horsepower starts up. The Savoie makes its way past craft dwarfed by the 68-metre-long steamboat.

On the sides the paddle wheels of what is considered one of the jewels of the Belle Epoque fleet are running at full speed.

Yvoire, a remarkable medieval French village, is only an hour and a half away by boat, while the Olympic city of Lausanne can be reached in three and a half hours, giving you plenty of time to enjoy a one-of-a-kind trip.

Whether it's a cruise in Switzerland or in France, Geneva is the ideal starting point from which to discover Lake Geneva and its little secrets. By choosing the Hotel Bristol, you will also benefit from the advice of our concierge, who can organise the perfect excursion for you.

A panoramic view of Lake Geneva and the Alps

As with Swiss trains, the CGN boats have first and second class. In first class, the lounges are beautifully decorated and very comfortable, ensuring a pleasant journey. Some cruises also offer a delicious menu, subject to reservation. The promise of relaxation and eating well!

A few steps lead to the upper deck. Don't forget your cap and sun cream to enjoy the panoramic view of the lake, vineyards and nearby mountains. And since the border passes through the middle of Lake Geneva, it is difficult to know exactly whether you are sailing in Switzerland or in France.

All year round Lake Geneva is a wonderful playground for sailors and nature lovers. Its waters also host major sporting events such as the Bol d'Or Mirabaud, the longest inland lake regatta in Europe.

Can you make out the famous Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe at over 4,800 metres?

A city pearl at the gateway to the mountains

On your way back, you'll catch a magnificent view of the Salève, the iconic mountain of the Alpine foothills in the nearby Haute-Savoie. Overlooking the Annemasse and Genevois region, the Salève offers visitors and hikers a breathtaking panoramic view.

Next, the 140-metre-high Geneva Water Fountain comes into full view. An icon of the city and major tourist attraction, it has been an integral part of the landscape since 1891! If you're not afraid of the humidity, take the jetty which goes all the way up to a few metres from the base, where you can admire the outlet nozzle projecting half a cubic metre of water per second at more than 200 km/h.

The Geneva harbour offers a magnificent panoramic view of the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre, which overlooks the city, as well as the Pâquis Baths, a favourite spot for bathers in the summer and a favourite with fondue lovers in the winter.

A smooth landing

You arrive at the English Garden, home to the famous flower clock with its 12,000 flowers, allowing you to discover the city close by from an entirely new angle. The boat makes its way among swimmers, pedalos and other boats. The piloting of a steamboat is reserved for the elite of captains, as the training requires 300 days on the job to be able to take the federal exam.

If you have some time left, you can walk along the lakefront to Genève-Plage (Port Noir), where the yellow boats of the Mouettes genevoises will take you across the harbour to the Pâquis (Quai du Mont-Blanc), just a few minutes away from the Hotel Bristol.

Founded in 1897, the Mouettes genevoises is a network of four lake lines operating year-round since 2004. Its shuttle boats leave every 10 or 30 minutes and offer a fun way to get around. Your Geneva Transport Card, received at check-in, allows you to use all public transport in Geneva for free, including buses, trams and the Mouettes genevoises.

Any questions?

Our concierge is at your disposal and will be happy to help you.

Complete Guide To Riding the Belle Epoque Train in Switzerland

The Belle Epoque is part of the Golden Pass route in Switzerland . It is a specialized train that takes you on the part of the journey from Montreux to Zweisimmen. While this route is covered by normal Golden Pass trains, if you are going to ride this section, we recommend the Belle Epoque. It is a train like no other and will make you feel like you are on an old grand Orient Express rail journey.

• 1 The Belle Epoque Route
• 2 Belle Epoque Train Tickets
• 3 Belle Epoque 1st Class vs 2nd Class
• 4 Which side of the Belle Epoque should you sit
• 5 Which section of the Golden Pass train is the best
• 6 Belle Epoque Train Stations
• 7 Details of the Belle Epoque Train
• 8 Belle Epoque Best Views

The Belle Epoque Route

The Belle Epoque travels from Zweisimmen to Montreux in 2 hours and 9 minutes. Trains leave every hour but only 2 trains per day are the Belle Epoque version, the rest are standard Golden Pass Panorama trains.

The easiest way to see which of the trains will be the Belle Epoque version is to pull up the SBB app on your phone and enter the 2 stations into the timetable. You’ll see a list of all the trains. Clicking on the individual trains will show you which train it will be.

Belle Epoque Train Tickets

Belle Epoque tickets cost CHF 58 for 1st class and CHF 33 for 2nd class. This ride is also included in the Swiss Pass, if you have purchased it. We recommend buying the Swiss Pass if you’ll be doing a fair number of trains in Switzerland. Your Swiss Pass is good for the class you purchased, but you can upgrade from 2nd class to 1st class in the app for CHF 25, which is worth it.

Tickets are available in the app or at the station before you get on the train. You should get your tickets in the app ahead of time though, as your connecting train might arrive just minutes before you need to get on the Belle Epoque.

Seat reservations are not needed on the Belle Epoque. We tried to make them before getting on the train, but it wasn’t possible. When we arrived at the station we asked if they would be needed, and they kind of laughed and said, “No, you can just walk on.” As it turns out, since we were there in February, the train was almost empty the whole way.

Belle Epoque 1st Class vs 2nd Class

The upgrade to 1st class is worth the price on the Belle Epoque Golden Pass route. At only CHF 25, you’ll get a chance to ride in a train that is unlike any other you’ve been in before. While 2nd class is also nice, this is a good spot to make a small upgrade if you haven’t gotten the 1st class Swiss Pass.

In 1st class on the Belle Epoque, the seats are wider and more luxurious, and there are 3 seats in a row instead of the 4 seats in 2nd class. Both classes will have great views out of the windows.

In addition to having a bigger seat, the other advantage to 1st class for a couple is they can sit in a private section of 2 with a table on one side of the train.

Which side of the Belle Epoque should you sit

Traveling from Zweisimmen to Montreux, you should sit on the right side of the Golden Pass Belle Epoque train. Views are great out of both sides, and you can switch sides if your train isn’t busy as it is open seating.

Which section of the Golden Pass train is the best

The section from Zweisimmen to Montreux is the best part of the Golden Pass train route in Switzerland. This section features the Belle Epoque and the VIP Panorama cars to enjoy the ride. These two types of trains are so unique, you might consider doing this route both ways to enjoy both the Belle Epoque and the VIP Panorama seats on the Golden Pass.

Belle Epoque Train Stations

The Belle Epoque calls Zweisimmen and Montreux as it’s end stations. Both are smaller stations that are easy to navigate and quick to get around.

The Montreux station has a cafe that serves food, and is a nice place to wait for your train indoors. If you’d like to explore the city, it is easily reachable on foot.

The station in Zweisimmen is staffed, but smaller, and is also located directly in town. There isn’t as much to see in Zweisimmen, so if you get there early you might end up just waiting at the station.

In your rush to get on the train and see the glorious interior, don’t run by the outside and miss the understated but regal look of the carriage. This train is stunning both inside and out. We love the blue and yellow color scheme that adorns the outside of the train.

Details of the Belle Epoque Train

The fine details of the train interior on the Belle Epoque will amaze most train travelers. We loved the entire look of the coach. There are nets to hold items behind each seat as well as overhead net shelfs and hooks for bags and coats. The wooden tables fold up to provide either more space, or an extended surface.

The seats have very pretty numbers on the headrests, and we could spend all day looking at the wood paneling on the ceiling of the train.

A train that looks this old doesn’t have to act old, and so, surprisingly, there are power outlets on the Belle Epoque. Outlets where you can charge your phone or other devices are located under the overhead shelf. They are in somewhat of an odd place, but most passengers are just happy to have them if need be.

The Belle Epoque might be the most surprising train in Switzerland, or all of Europe. The low price makes you think it might not be a special experience, but once on board you’ll quickly realize you are in for a treat. Not only is the train spectacular to ride, the views are amazing on the route.

Belle Epoque Best Views

The best views on the Belle Epoque are descending into Montreux. While you descend on a series of switchbacks you’ll have uninterrupted views of Lake Geneva.

Robert Marmion

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This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.

• Basel Stadt & Landschaft
• Historical villages of Parc Ela
• Historical Villages of Naturpark Beverin and the Averser Rhein
• Historical villages of the Lower Engadine valley
• Graubunden’s historical buildings
• Val bregaglia and the village of soglio
• Graubünden’s Hidden Lakes, Rivers and Gorges
• Walks in Graubünden
• Lake Lucerne & Canton Uri
• Nidwalden & Obwalden
• Schaffhausen & Thurgau
• Naturpark Thal
• Vaud, Neuchâtel, Fribourg and Drei-See-Land (Three-Lake-Region)
• Zurich canton’s lakes
• Appenzell – Hiking to the Mountain Inns
• Hiking the Gemmipass – A Must-Do Swiss Classic
• Walks and more in Nidwalden & Obwalden
• Walks and more in canton St. Gallen
• Walks in Zürich canton
• My Posts – special places and Experiences
• What Switzerland offers and when to go
• The Castles of Aargau
• Culture and Traditions of Swiss Cheese
• Museums Big and Small
• World-Class Art
• What to do on Bad Weather Days

How to enjoy a Nostalgic Lake Cruise Onboard one of Switzerland’s Belle Epoque Paddle Steamers

Switzerland’s Historical Steamboats

The historical steamboats are the pride of the waterways. From the turn of the century, they have been on the itineraries of royalty and heads of state. Well preserved and well-oiled, these impressive ships can be seen slowly chugging their way around several of Switzerland’s most beautiful lakes.

Thanks to state-of-the-art restoration efforts, they have managed to find a way to keep the original designs by using modern technology. For example, a defective part of the Lake Thun Steam Boat DS Lötschberg was scanned, a mould was made and then printed using 3D technology so that the defective part could be recast.

Apart from the inner workings, careful attention has also been put into rejuvenating the stylish design features of all these ships, returning them to their original glory.

Lake Geneva

CGN – Steamboat Montreux – Cruise along the Lavaux vineyards ©B Francey

The Comangnie Générale de Navigation sur le Lac Léman SA is responsible for the Belle Epoque Fleet – the largest and most prestigous of its type in the world. The paddlewheel steamboats were commissioned between 1904 and 1927, with gorgeous decorations, elegant sweeping lines and large paddle wheels – these steamboats are impressive to cruise on or to watch from the region’s beautiful lakeside villages, vineyards and beaches found spread across Lake Geneva.

There are 35 landing stations spread around the lake for all kinds of boats and ships – with the Belle Epoque fleet servicing a large portion of them. The timetable for all boats that are run by CGN can be found on their website here , or download th e general timetable of the CGN . The little half-circle, paddlewheel motif shows which routes are serviced by the steamboats.

Examples of Routes are:

• Geneva – Yvoire – Nyon – Geneva
• Lausanne – St. Gingolph – Chillon – Montreux – Lausanne
• Lausanne – Morges – Yvoire and return
• Lausanne – Vevey – Montreux – Chillon and return

ABVL – The Association Friends of Steam Boats on Lake Geneva

For anyone interested in the inner workings and renovation history of the Lake Geneva 8 steamships, the ABVL does a digital magazine that offers all sorts of tidbits and articles on the fleet. A page called ‘Introduction to the Eight Ships and their History’ details, amongst other things, their structure, fittings, capacity, historical stories, and of course, great photos. I can guarantee that you will want to go for a cruise after reading this article.

Three Lakes Region – Neuchâtel, Murten & Bienne

Small and agile – perfect for the canals that link the three lakes. Photo by A. Leggett

DS Neuchâtel

The DS Neuchâtel, the last half saloon steamship in Switzerland, cruises its way around the three lakes of the Plateau Central (Mittelland). Thanks to its small size, this boat can also travel on the two canals linking the lakes with room to pass under the canal’s bridges. It also has the special honour of being the only steamboat able to maneuver on a canal or river in Switzerland.

The DS Neuchâtel was built in 1912 and sailed until 1969, when it became a ship restaurant in the port of Neuchâtel. It was fully renovated over a 3 year period and started sailing again in 2014.  This ship has 300 seats, including 90 for a restaurant (divided into 2 lounges). It is also possible to view the vessel’s steam engine.

How to get onboard the three lakes

For more information go to the Société de Navigation sur les Lacs de Neuchâtel et Morat website. The summer timetable shows the months of operation for 2022 from 14 May to 25 September – Wednesday to Sunday – and the route numbers of the Vapeur Neuchâtel/Dampfschiff Neuchâtel/steamboat Neuchâtel (page 6).

It would pay to go to the Neuchâtel, Murten or Biel/Bienne harbour ticket counter for further information.

Lake Lucerne

PS Stadt Luzern – flagship of Lake Lucerne

There are 5 historic paddle steamers in Lake Lucerne’s fleet of 19 boats and ships. The leader of the pack is the stately flagship Stadt Luzern. Built in 1928, it is the largest and most impressive of the fleet. Travelling on this ship is a wonderful experience with its art deco saloon, huge deck area and imposing wide funnel – like a huge black cherry on top of the white frosted layer cake.

Guestlist of the Stadt Luzern

The Stadt Luzern has had an impressive guest list such as General Henri Guisan and the entire Swiss Army office corps who sailed from Lucerne to the Rütli meadow for an important military conference during a precarious wartime moment, following the fall of France.

Evita Perón, the extremely famous wife of Argentinian president Juan Perón set sail in 1947 during an official visit, and to add to the prestige guest list, Queen Elizabeth II went for an alpine cruise in May 1980. In honour of her visit, the ship’s upper deck lounge was renamed “Queen’s Salon”.

Renovation and Rejuvenation

Over 80,000 hours of labour and 13.3 million francs were invested into the renovation of the Stadt Luzern. From May 2021 the ship returned to public service on Lake Lucerne.

How to get onboard – Lake Lucerne

• Culinary cruises – Wine & Dine 1 x per month from May to October ( DS Stadt Luzern )
• Jazz and Dine – weekly from the beginning of August to the beginning of September ( DS Stadt Luzern )
• Lucerne – Beckenried – Lucerne – see the timetables for steamboat operating times (steamboat icon – note: see limits to days of operation in small print*).
• Candlelight Dinner – (DS Uri)
• Lucerne – Flüelen – Lucerne , minimum 2 x daily from May to October Tip: this service stops at the lovely town of Brunnen.
• Sunset Cruise – end of May to mid -September ( either a steamboat or the modern MS Diamant)

* Good to Know: When looking at the timetable, a mini steamboat symbol above a route means that one of the paddle steamers is normally used for that particular route. The highlighted symbol means steamboats are only used on weekends and public holidays, or daily at peak season times – at other times a motorboat is used. Of course, this is all subject to change – for exact and up-to-date details go to the timetables .

Stadt Zürich paddle steamer after a steam clean . Photo by A.Leggett

DS Stadt Zürich (1909) & DS Stadt Rapperswil (1914)

The Stadt Zürich steamboat is the oldest in the ZSG fleet, but both of the well-maintained steamboats have all the traditional fittings that you would expect from a Belle Epoque paddle steamer.

The Lake Zürich Navigation Company has a fleet of 17 boats and is part of the public transport service for Zürich canton. This is a big bonus if you are spending time in Zürich as you c an travel on the lake, as an alternative to taking the train or tram to get around the city – and not pay anything extra ( make sure you are staying within the zones of your return ticket, also known as a day card ).

Many times I have walked down the lakeside on a sunny day and then taken the boat back to the city. I definitely recommend it – there is a great view of the mountains on a clear day. A special timetable is available showing which boat or ship will be used for which route so, if you time it right, you can easily manage to cruise the lake on either the DS Stadt Zürich or DS Stadt Rapperswil – both start operating in April and finish in September (see below for timetable link).

How to get onboard – Lake Zürich

These historic paddle steamers operate regularly from 2rd April to 22rd October 2023 – on scheduled cruises. The schedule of all boats can be accessed 4 to 5 days in advance by going to the Allocation of Boats page on the zsg.ch website.

For Something a Bit Different:

The Unique Cruises ( mostly motorboats ) run throughout the year. They offer all sorts of cruises with onboard entertainment and experiences such as a murder mystery (german), 80s party , mind reading (german), silent party and international cuisine cruises . I like the sound of the 80s party one myself…

Bernese Oberland’s Lakes – Thun and Brienz

The extraordinary colours of both Lake Brienz and Lake Thun in the Bernese Oberland are beautiful, sitting amongst some of the best alpine scenery in the country. They’re a popular base for tourists because of their proximity to the famous Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains, the towns of Interlaken and Grindelwald and the magical Lauterbrünnen Valley.

Lötschberg – Lake Brienz

DS Lötschberg – Image supplied by – BLS Shifffahrt

The DS Lötschberg was recently overhauled by a specialised restoration team who have a passion for preserving as many of the original features as possible – from the large anchor and decking to the small hidden compartments – all have their own special story to tell. An article in the Swiss Info news website explains the detective work that was done on this steamer to uncover some surprising stories of the past.

Blümlisalp – Lake Thun

DS Blümlisalp – Photo by Jeroen Seyffer Fotografie BLS – supplied by BLS Schifffahrt 2020

The Blümlisalp is a double-decker saloon steamer from the Belle Epoque with modern technology and a double-decker saloon. There is lots of polished wood and a panoramic restaurant on the upper deck.

How to get onboard – Lakes Thun & Brienz

The steamers start operating mid-May through to October. The BLS timetable has the option to search forms of transport such as boats, trains (or car ferry if relevant). The word “steamer” and a steamboat icon show which routes use a steamboat (same price as a motorboat).

Little Greif – Greifensee

DS Greif on Lake Greif (Greifensee) ; Roland zh, 2009, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons .

The pretty little Greif steamboat is the oldest steamboat in Switzerland and the only passenger ship in the country that is fired with coal. It operates on the second largest lake in Canton Zürich – Lake Greifensee.

The fall and rise of the Greif steamboat

The Greif was built in 1895 by the Escher Wyss shipbuilding company in Zurich. Because coal became scarce after the outbreak of World War I and maintenance was expensive, like many other ships, the Greif steamboat coal fire was replaced by an engine. In 1979 the original Greif steam machine reappeared again and the historical boat was restored to its original design and declared worthy of protection by the cantonal monument preservation authorities. Finally, in 1988, the Greif was once again operating as a steamboat.

On Lake Greifensee through time

“Greif” can hold 24 passengers and crosses the lake for round trips from the end of April to mid-October on Sundays and public holidays and can be booked for individual tours during the week (e.g. birthdays, family celebrations for a maximum of 24 people). Timetables, contact details and reservation info can be found on the website of  Greif steamboat .

The video below gives an idea of what is so special about little Greif and also the pretty lake it cruises on.

Getting to the port at Maur, on the edge of Greifensee

By Car: Zürich – Maur: 25-30 mins from central Zürich (14 km)

By Public Transport: with train and bus – 39 – 47 mins with changes (see sbb.ch for timetable – Zürich to Maur(See))

Other activities on and around Greifensee such as paddle boats, swimming, walking and grilling can be found on my Zurich Canton/lakes page .

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Lake Geneva

Belle Epoque boats have plied Central Europe's largest lake for 130 years, offering cruises between France and Switzerland and between Geneva and the upper end of the lake (known as the Haut Lac).

Description

Lake Geneva is a water body of superlatives: mildest climate, largest lake and lake with the largest amount of water in Central Europe.The Celts called it “Large Water” or “Lem an”, and to this day it is called Lac Léman in French. And it certainly is big. Scheduled boats, historic paddle steamers and small ferries ply this 582km2 body of water, breaking records as they go. The Compagnie Générale de Navigation (GGN) on Lake Geneva operates eight paddle steamers, the largest European fleet of its kind. Shipping on Lake Geneva also breaks records.Regularly scheduled lake boats connect the numerous villages and cities, and small ferries, called "Mouettes", carry passengers in Geneva rapidly from one shore of the lake to another. Visitors who want to enjoy a comfortable journey book a special culinary trip or a cruise to notable sights, such as the emblem of the city of Geneva, the "Jet d'eau", an up to 140 meter high water fountain that is illuminated at night. If you spend time around Chillon Castle  and the Montreux  promenade, sooner or later you'll be tempted to take a cruise on the “Haut Lac” between Vevey , Montreux, Chillon, Villeneuve and Le Bouveret .

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A Day Trip From Geneva on Switzerland’s Belle Epoque Steamers

Last Updated on April 5, 2024

A great day trip from Geneva on a Belle Epoque steamer…

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

Updated for 2023

By Jim Ferri

With more than its rightfully fair share of magnificent Alpine scenery, Switzerland is one of the most beautiful countries in Europe. But while marveling at its beautiful Alps and visiting its lovely mountain villages and towns, many travelers overlook an experience that is uniquely Swiss – the opportunity to sail on one of Switzerland’s Lake Geneva boat tours – an experience you’ll find nowhere else. It is a wonderful day trip from Geneva.

These beautiful old boats, the largest Belle Epoque fleet in the world in terms of capacity, sail on six Swiss lakes – Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne, Lake Zurich, Lake Thun, Lake Brienz and Lake Constance, the latter shared with neighbors Germany and Austria .

While all of the boats provide a wonderful experience, one of the most worthwhile trips is on Lake Geneva, Switzerland , the largest lake in the country, which is known as Lac Léman to Francophiles. It not only provides spectacular scenery but also the largest fleet of the Belle Epoque steamers.

On Lake Geneva, The Haute–Lac, Aboard a Belle Epoque Lake Steamer

The real attraction of a lake steamer day trip from Geneva is the opportunity to visit the haute–lac , the upper part of Lake Geneva between Lausanne and Montreux, the latter home to the world-renowned Jazz Festival of the same name that is held very July. En route to Montreux , with the magnificent Alps as a backdrop, you’ll see the beautiful Lavaux vineyards . They are a spectacular UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site where the vines tumble down to the lakeside.

You can take the ferry from Geneva to Montreux, but the trip will take 4-5 hours one-way. Unless you desire a long day trip from Geneva, it’s much more worthwhile to instead take a train from Geneva to Lausanne and board the ferry there. The ferry Lausanne – Montreux takes only 1½ hours and you’ll still get to see the best scenery along the way.

Trains leave Geneva about every 15 minutes and the price of tickets for the 35-minute ride to Lausanne start at approximately $7.25 one way . Later in the day you can take a train from Montreux to Geneva or wherever you are staying in Switzerland.

A Day Trip From Geneva, Touring in Belle Epoque Style

For a special experience on your Lake Geneva day trip, plan on having lunch aboard the boat. The restaurants on the steamships are first-class and are exceptionally pleasant. And their prices are similar to those of quality Swiss restaurants on shore.

You can bring along your own picnic since picnicking is allowed out on the open decks. But you’ll find that the onboard restaurant experience really enhances the trip. If you opt not to dine on board you can also have coffee and cake in the restaurant as seats become available. Book in advance since space can be limited.

Compagnie Générale de Navigation , better known by its acronym CGN, runs the steamer cruises on the lake. Be aware that although there are cruises offered by other companies, CGN is the only one allowed to drop passengers off at ports along the way; the others will bring you back to where you embarked. Tickets can be bought at CGN ticket windows or on board. Cash and credit cards are accepted, with prices the same for each of the ships.

Cruise April – October

You can cruise Lake Geneva mid-April to mid-October, the most popular months being mid-June to mid-September. During the winter months sailings are quite limited.

Check with your hotel concierge regarding sailings of the large Belle Epoque boats. Second and first class seating is available on most of the boats. When the weather is good, however, the first-class seating on the upper decks is more enjoyable. The seats in second-class have limited deck space.

The cost of a one-way ticket from Lausanne to Montreux is CHF 26 second-class, and CHF 37 first-class (due to the value of the dollar, also approximately $26 / $37), and is the same for all boats. There are also many discounts available.

A Day Trip From Geneva, Combined With A Tour of Montreux

Once you step off the ferry in Montreux you have several good options . One is a 15-minute train ride back to the Lavaux Vineyards to wander about the little villages. They are great places to visit if you enjoy good food and wine.

If you don’t dine on the ferry you could also opt to have lunch in Montreux where you’ll find plenty of good restaurants . Afterwards take a tour of the lovely small city, especially around the old city, where in season a profusion of flowers spills from terraces and fountains along the old streets.

Montreux is a good place to visit almost any time of year. The climate is so moderate palm trees grow along the lake shore, amazing some visitors, and giving the area its nickname of the “Montreux Riviera.”

See Chateau de Chillon

Leave time to take a walk along Lake Geneva out past the palms to the 800-year-old Chateau de Chillon, the most visited attraction in all of Switzerland . Made famous by Lord Byron in his poem “The Prisoner of Chillon,” the Chateau de Chillon is spectacularly located on a little shore-side island.

You may also enjoy: Montreux, Switzerland’s Little Riviera / Best Places to Visit in Switzerland / The Lavaux Vineyard Terraces in Switzerland

Tour this former home of the Dukes of Savoy and you’ll see the dank dungeon where Byron carved his name on one of the pillars. You can also visit the banquet hall and various small displays. If you’d rather not take the 2+ mile walk to the castle you can take a bus from Montreux proper.

Another option on this day trip from Geneva, is to take a 55-minute trip on a cog railway up to the summit of the nearby Rochers de Naye , one of the towering Alps. There are spectacular views (and a restaurant) when you reach the 7,000-foot summit.

Back in Montreux

Back down in Montreux don’t miss taking a stroll along its picturesque lakeside. There you’ll find pieces of outdoor art all along the manicured shoreline. One of the most popular is the Freddie Mercury statue, a life-size tribute to the late lead vocalist of the rock band Queen, on the quay near the Montreux Casino. The people of Montreux loved Mercury after he adopted the city as his home. He lived there until his death in 1991. They continue to revere him still, as you’ll see by the candles and bouquets left at his statue.

Later on in the day you’ll find it to be an easy 10-minute walk from the lake up to the station to catch a train back to Geneva.

Montreux-Vevey Tourisme Rue du Théâtre 5 Case postale 251 1820 Montreux 2, Switzerland Tel: +41 848 86 84 84 http://www.montreuxriviera.com/en/

Rail Europe https://www.raileurope.com Tel: (888) 438-RAIL (7245)

CGN Ferries https://www.cgn.ch/en/

August 3, 2017 at 6:56 pm

Trying to figure best way to spend couple days in Geneva and you have given a truly brilliant suggestion.

August 3, 2017 at 7:12 pm

Thank you for the compliment Annie. I envy you for being able to tahe this trip. Would enjoy hearing about your experience. Smooth sailing!

March 28, 2020 at 10:46 pm

I would like to take the Belle Epoque steamboat from Geneva to Yvoire, France, is this possible ?and what are the departure times ? Many Thanks Gino Patruno

March 29, 2020 at 9:23 am

Hello Gino, Yes, you can travel from Geneva to Yvoire, France on the Savoie, one of the Belle Epoque paddle steamboats. Go here to find the schedule info, etc.: https://www.lake-geneva-switzerland.com/all-lake-geneva-ferry-boats/summer-lake-geneva-cgn-boat-excursions-and-day-cruises/

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Belle Epoque Fleet

The only fleet of its type in the world! 

CGN preserves and operates the most prestigious Belle Epoque fleet of the world. Its mission is to preserve this unique heritage.

As such, it strives to renovate and keep these units as close to their original appearance as possible.

A big thank you to the ABVL , the CGN’s main partner in the preservation of the Belle Epoque fleet

All the CGN's fleet

Belle Epoque - Diesel-electric paddle boat

The first paddle boat with diesel-electric propulsion was fully and superbly renovated in 2013. Just as its twin ITALIE, it offers all year round, therefore even in winter, Belle Epoque cruises on Lake Geneva. These two boats are CGN’s only pair of identical Belle Epoque boats to survive after the demolition of the GENERAL DUFOUR built in 1905 (twin of the MONTREUX) and the VALAIS built in 1913 (twin of the SAVOIE). It is equipped with the most modern technology in a hull more than a hundred years old, and has an extremely attractive, bright first-class lounge with chestnut marquetry enhanced with chiseled bronze trimmings. On the upper deck, the former "smoking room", separated from the rest of the deck by the smoke stack, was rebuilt to its original state.

2 x 270 kW (electric)

Lausanne-Geneva-Lausanne

"Don’t miss the beautiful, unique first class lounge with its light-colored marquetry!"

360° upper deck visit

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360° Belle Epoque lounge visit

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