california zephyr round trip

Train Travel Guide

The Ultimate California Zephyr Guide

by TTG | Feb 26, 2022 | Amtrak , California Zephyr , Overnight Trains | 0 comments

Many say the Califronia Zephyr is North America’s most scenic train.

On its two night and three day journey the Zephyr passes through mountain ranges and deserts. It crosses the Mississippi, snakes alongside the Colorado through the Rockies and traverses the Sierra Nevada mountain ranges in California.

Such accolades have the California Zephyr in great company with other North American train journeys. High on the list would be Amtrak’s Empire Builder , Via Rail’s Canadian and Jasper to Prince Rupert trains and of course the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer .  

California Zephyr at a Glance

• The California Zephyr is an overnight Amtrak train from Chicago to San Francisco
• The journey takes approximately 52 hours , or two nights and three days
• The train crosses California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa and Illinois
• Key city stops are Chicago, Omaha, Denver, Salt Lake City, Reno, Sacramento and San Francisco
• The train is scheduled to operate daily in each direction and travels overnight
• Coach and sleeper accommodations are available
• Prices on this train vary according to demand
• A traditional dining car is available for sleeper passengers, with three meals a day included
• A sightseer lounge car is available as a shared space to meet fellow passengers, read a book or watch the world go by
• A cafe is available in the sightseer lounge for all passengers to purchase food and drinks
• Checked baggage is available at some, but not all stations
• There is baggage storage onboard
• There is no WiFi on this train
• The train travels through remote areas where phone reception isn’t available

California Zephyr Route Highlights

A trip on the Zephyr covers 2400 miles or 3900km, about twice the distance from Florida to New York City.

With its breathtaking year round scenery you can be sure the 52-hour, two night and three day end-to-end adventure between San Francisco and Chicago is a journey you won’t regret taking. 

It’s an impressive journey that passes through California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. Along the way there are some 33 scheduled stops, including Omaha, Denver, Winter Park, Salt Lake City, Reno and Sacremento , the Californian capital.  

This train however, is best known for its journey through the Rocky Mountains on day two.

Rocky Mountains on Day two

Most of the Zephyr’s well-deserved reputation comes from the time traversing the rails in Colorado between Denver and Grand Junction on day two. This section is always during daylight hours, regardless of which direction you travel.

Westbound : When heading west, the train climbs into the Rocky Mountains after leaving Denver. The most scenic views will be to the left hand side in the direction of travel. Following the climb is the Moffat tunnel, where the Zephyr crosses the Continental Divide through the 6.2 mile (10km) tunnel that was opened in 1927. From here, it’s time to settle in near a window. For the rest of the day natures best remains on display as the Zephyr follows the Colorado River through to Grand Junction.

Eastbound: On the eastbound journey the day happens in reverse. Here, the main scenery starts just after Grand Junction in the morning and the most scenic views will be to the right in the direction of travel. The train follows the Colorado River for the day, descending into Denver from the mountains in the evening. The descent into Denver makes for a great finale to an epic day of sightseeing, and is ideally timed for a hotel check-in if you choose to break the trip here.

Other Highlights

While the mountain scenery is a clear winner there’s other point of interest to keep an eye out for.

Along the way the Zephyr crosses the Mississippi River at Burlington on the state border of Illinois and Iowa, traverses through through Ruby Canyon in Colorado and passes by Utah’s impressive Book Cliffs! Also not to be missed is California’s Sierra Nevada Mountain Range.

In short, with this variety of scenery you’ll never be without an amazing view out the window.

Which direction should I travel on the California Zephyr?

Seasoned rail travelers recommend this trip in either direction. That said, there is a slight preference for the westbound trip.

This is because during the deep winter months on the eastbound trip the descent from the Rocky Mountains into Denver often occurs after sunset. The train is scheduled to arrive into Denver at 6:30pm. By most accounts though, even when this happens the approaching city lights on the descent are impressive too. 

Which direction for stopovers?

If you are looking to take a journey on the Zephyr with stopovers along the way, the direction matters. After all, you don’t want to be stepping off the train at 3am!

Westbound: this service is well timed for breaking the trip at stops in Illinois, Iowa, Colorado and California. It’s not well placed for stops in Nebraska and parts of Nevada, where it passes through in the early hours of the morning.  

Eastbound: this service is ideal for stop-overs at destinations in California, Nevada, Colorado and Iowa . It’s not well timed for stops at Utah.

See also: California Zephyr Schedule See Also: California Zephyr Stopovers

California Zephyr Train 5 – Westbound (departs Chicago)

Westbound – day one.

The westbound Zephyr leaves daily from Chicago’s downtown Union Station at 2pm.

The Chicago Union Station building is best summed up on the stations website: a grand building worthy of the city’s status as a national railroad hub . Allow a little time to admire the impressive architecture as they don’t build stations like this anymore. A point that Emeryville at the other end of the line goes some way to proving. 

Sleeper car passengers can avail themselves of the Metropolitan Lounge where light refreshments, comfortable seating and showers are available. Coach passengers can buy a lounge pass for $35 (February 2022 pricing).

For lunch nearby before departure consider Vapiano Riverside Chicago . Alternatively, throughout the station there are many fast food style dining options. For those onboard snacks a Walgreens and CVS can be found nearby.

After departure the train makes nine stops between Chicago and Omaha, where it’s scheduled to arrive at 11pm. Passing through Nebraska overnight the Zephyr crosses into Colorado early in the early morning hours with an intended arrival in Denver at 7am. 

Westbound: Day Two

That famous Zephyr scenery starts after Denver, making this a popular boarding point. 

Seasoned travelers recommend getting a seat in the sightseer car prior to arrival in Denver for the best views as the day starts. If the train is busy, staff may ask folks to limit time in the sightseer lounge to give everyone an opportunity to take in the immersive views the extra-large windows offer. 

After a day of epic scenery in Colorado the train passes into Utah in the evening where the last stop of day two is Salt Lake City, at around 11pm. Even though 11pm is late, if you’re looking for a stopover at Salt Lake the westbound service is best. It’s preferable to the 3am arrival on the eastbound service!

Westbound: Day Three

On the morning of day three the Zephyr aims to arrive at Reno around half-eight and continues on to the Californian capital of Sacramento for an arrival of just after two in the afternoon.

For the finale, the Zephyr travels alongside the waters of San Francisco bay, ending the journey at Emeryville, Oakland with a intended arrival of around 4pm.

Amtrak offers a guaranteed coach connection to Salesforce Plaza in the heart of San Francisco – be sure to book your destination as San Francisco rather than Emeryville to include the connection on your ticket. 

California Zephyr Train 6 – Eastbound (departs Emeryville)

Eastbound: day one.

The Eastbound Zephyr departs just after 9am daily from Oakland’s Emeryville station.

Emeryville station is just across the Bay Bridge from down-town San Francisco. Amtrak offers a connecting coach service that links Emeryville with Salesforce Plaza in the heart of San Francisco for a nominal fee. For this guaranteed connection select San Francisco as your departure destination when booking. 

Emeryville station is a modern although no-frills affair. There is no lounge for sleeper passengers nor food and beverage options within the station aside from vending machines. While there are places to eat nearby, it’s best to have breakfast and stock up on those on train snacks before arriving.  

On day one the Zephyr is scheduled to pass through Sacramento at around 11am. It’s then onto Reno at 4pm before crossing the remainder of Nevada in the evening and Utah overnight.

Eastbound: Day Two

On day two, the day with the Zephyr’s famous scenery, the train is scheduled for its first stop in Colorado at Grand Junction just after ten before. Be sure to head to the sightseer lounge early in the day, although keep in mind Amtrak staff may ask passengers to limit time in the lounge car if the train is busy. Day two ends in Denver, around half-six in the evening.

Eastbound: Day Three

On day three for the early risers the train passes through Omaha, Nebraska just after 5am.

Beyond Omaha, the service is well timed for all stops in Iowa and Illinois before the scheduled arrival into Chicago around 3pm. Perfect timing for a hotel check-in!

California Zephyr Ticket Types and Prices

As of February 2022 we checked the booking engine for various dates up to 12 months ahead. The following prices are a guide :

Sleeper Roomette

Sleeper bedroom suite, sleeper family / accessible bedroom.

Similar to airlines, Amtrak uses variable pricing which means prices fluctuate according to a range of factors. Outside of a sale, the prices above are unlikely to go lower than the minimum we found. Be aware they could certainly go higher than the upper range we found, especially as the train fills up.

This train is very popular in the summer months, making it likely to be more expensive at that time of year. Consider a winter trip on the Zephyr, the scenery is just as spectacular. In fact, many would argue a trip in the fall or winter are the ideal times for travelling on the Zephyr.

Travel Tip: If you book a roomette it’s not possible to guarantee which side of the train this is on. Economy cars are always joined to the train with the seats facing the direction of travel, although sleeper cars can be attached either way. If you’re traveling as a group of two and want the best scenery consider booking two roomettes – upstairs and across the corridor from each other. To get the room assignments locked in you’ll need to book over the phone rather than online. 

To book travel on the California Zephyr start at amtrak.com

California Zephyr Onboard Service

The California Zephyr uses two-level Amtrak Superliner cars. A typical Zephyr train has sleeper cars, coach cars, a dining car and sightseer lounge car.

Sightseer Lounge: The sightseer lounge car is a key space on the train. Upstairs there are large windows where the seating faces outward. It’s a relaxed atmosphere to meet other travellers over a coffee, read a book or listen to a podcast as the world passes by. Downstairs in the sightseer car you’ll find a cafe with light meals and refreshments for purchase accompanied by a seating area.

Sleeper Service: Sleeper tickets have the highest level of onboard service. Sleeper tickets include main meals – breakfast, lunch and dinner in the dining car. The first alcoholic beverage at dinner is included. Additional alcoholic beverages in the dining car, or items purchased from the café between meals must be purchased separately.

Each sleeper car has an attendant who completes an evening turn down service to convert the room to night mode, and the reverse in the morning. Sleeper cars guests also have access to showers, with towels and soap supplied onboard. These showers are shared in the case of roomettes and family/accessible bedrooms. The Sleeper bedroom suites have an in-room shower.

Coach Service: Amtrak coach class is known for its generous leg room and recline. Unfortunately, beyond this, there are few additional inclusions for coach passengers. Coach passengers don’t have access to showers or the dining car. In coach meals can only be purchased from the cafe or at stations along the way. Normally, coach passengers would have access to the dining car on a paid basis. This access is currently suspended due to COVID-19 related service adjustments. 

California Zephyr FAQ’s

The California Zephyr takes approximately 52 hours from end to end. The journey is two nights and three days.

Daily (everyday) in each direction.

Either direction will provide the same amazing scenery at key parts of the trip. Seasoned travellers often have a slight preference for the Westbound trip departing Chicago.

The views to the south are considered the best on main day of scenery (day 2) in Colorado. When booking a sleeper cabin the side you’ll be facing cannot be guaranteed.

Illinois : Chicago, Naperville, Princeton, Galesburg Iowa : Burlington, Mount Pleasant, Ottumwa, Osceola (Des Moines), Creston Nebraska : Omaha, Lincoln, Hastings, Holdrege, McCook Colorado : Fort Morgan, Denver, Fraser-Winter Park, Granby, Glenwood Springs, Grand Junction Utah : Green River, Helper, Provo, Salt Lake City Nevada : Elki, Winnemucca, Reno California : Truckee, Colfax, Roseville, Sacramento, Davis, Martinez, Richmond, Emeryville

Checked baggage may be available depending on which station you board at and where you disembark. If checked bags aren’t available there are luggage storage spaces available on board at the ends of each car to store bags.

The train has several “smoke stops” along the way where you can step off the train for short periods. These are announced onboard and subject to variations depending on circumstances on the day. Don’t venture too far – the train will leave without you! If you want to break up a trip you need to book a ticket for each segment – just like an airline.

California Zephyr Bottom Line

The California Zephyr is a 52-hour, 2 night and 3 day train journey across America offering spectacular and varied scenery. It’s a journey seasoned rail travelers highly recommend in either direction in any season, passing through many iconic mid-west cities.

Like many of the world’s great train journeys if you ever get the opportunity, take this train more than once. Each season brings a dramatic change in scenery that will make it feel like a new adventure each time.

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Grand National Parks Discovery on the California Zephyr

• Chicago >
• Santa Fe >
• Grand Canyon >
• Flagstaff >

Experience the true grandeur of America’s national parks on this 13-day rail holiday to Rocky Mountain, Arches and Canyonlands, Zion, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Yellowstone, and Yosemite National Parks! Of course, you’ll also be stopping in some iconic cities along the way, such as Denver, Salt Lake City and San Francisco, and riding aboard the famous California Zephyr train! All of these places should be on your travel bucket list! Why? Because North America’s national parks are priceless treasures filled with unforgettable adventures and scenery. By the time you wrap up this rail journey, you’re bound to have collected many memories and photographs.

Reservations: 1-800-268-7252

For pricing and availability from your Amtrak Station:

Highlights:

• Sightseeing tour of Rocky Mountain National Park
• Sightseeing tour of Arches & Canyonlands National Parks
• Sightseeing tour of Zion National Park
• Sightseeing tour of Capitol Reef & Bryce Canyon National Parks
• Sightseeing tour of Yellowstone National Park
• Sightseeing tour of Yosemite National Park

PACKAGE ALSO INCLUDES:

• One-way Amtrak® in Coach accommodations from Denver to Grand Junction; Grand Junction to Salt Lake City; Salt Lake City to San Francisco on California Zephyr®
• Roundtrip transfers from Grand Junction to Springdale
• Roundtrip transfers from Salt Lake City to West Yellowstone
• 1 meal included (1 dinner)
• 11 nights' hotel accommodations

Call us to customize this vacation!

Other Packages Available:

Disclaimer:

Package prices are per person, double occupancy, tax included. Prices do not include rail from your hometown. Please call for pricing. Package prices are subject to change without notice, and all reservations are based upon availability at the time of booking. Amtrak travel is for Coach accommodations unless otherwise noted. Upgrades to Roomette or Bedroom accommodations on board Amtrak are available. Call for pricing. Other restrictions may apply. Activities referenced in the itinerary during free time are for suggested purposes only and are not included. Seasonal activity (if applicable): During the off-season, some tours may not be available. In this case, a similar tour will be substituted. Passports (if applicable): Passports are required when crossing the Canadian border. Amtrak and Amtrak Vacations are registered service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation.

DAY 1 YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS IN DENVER Welcome to the Denver, AKA, the “Mile High City.” This scenic metropolis is located 5,280 feet above sea level and offers stunning views of the Rocky Mountains. After you check into your hotel, you'll have lots of free time to start exploring all Denver has to offer. There is much to see and do, like Red Rocks Park, the Denver Art Museum, Denver Zoo and more. (Overnight in Denver) DAY 2 DENVER Today, you'll enjoy a full day sightseeing tour of Rocky Mountain National Park! Departing from Denver, this small group tour features some awesome highlights that are sure to get you excited. Along the way, you'll pass historic towns and breath-taking landscapes. Once in Rocky Mountain National Park, have an included picnic lunch, view wildlife, see the continental divide, relax alongside rivers and streams, and see the Stanley Hotel (made famous in The Shining ). There is also an optional hike you can take. Rocky Mountain National Park will make you feel like you're on top of the world! After the tour, you'll be transferred back to Denver. (Overnight in Denver) DAY 3 GRAND JUNCTION Today, you'll travel to the Amtrak station on your own to board the iconic California Zephyr train from Denver to Grand Junction. When you arrive, check into your hotel and spend the remainder of the day at your leisure. Stroll along Riverfront Trail, enjoy farm-to-table cuisine, go hiking or fishing, play a round of golf, or shop the boutiques. Why not visit A Robin's Nest, the largest antique store between Denver and Las Vegas, and do some treasure hunting? A must-see is the Colorado National Monument, famous for its red rock canyons and peaceful solitude. Regardless of the time of year, this place is absolutely stunning! (Overnight in Grand Junction).

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Amtrak California Zephyr Route Guide

• 1 California Zephyr Route Overview
• 2 Train Info
• 3 Ticket Options
• 4 Scenic Views
• 5 Major Sites
• 6 Major Stations
• 7 States Visited
• 8 Station Reviews
• 9 Trip Planning
• 10 Booking Tickets

California Zephyr Route Overview

This Amtrak California Zephyr route guide will give you all the information you need to ride the famed train route across the United States. The Amtrak California Zephyr is one of the most scenic train routes in the USA. Along the way you will travel along the Colorado River valley, the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. It’s one of Amtrak’s longest routes at 2,438 miles long.

The California Zephyr goes between Chicago and Emeryville (San Francisco) via Omaha, Denver, Salt Lake City and Reno.

Ticket Options

On the California Zephyr you can purchase tickets in these categories (sample summer fares for 2 people shown):

• Coach ($352)
• Superliner Roomette ($1,152)
• Superliner Bedroom ($2,332)
• Superliner Family Bedroom ($1,069)

Amtrak often runs 2 for 1 sales on coach tickets as well as roomettes. If you are planning well in advance, check out our guide to getting 2 for 1 tickets during the BOGO sale .

Meals and Metropolitan Lounge access are included for all sleeper car passengers.

Scenic Views

As the most scenic route on the Amtrak schedule you will travel through along the upper Colorado River valley, through the Rockies and into Moffat Tunnel. You will cross the Continental Divide as you travel through Moffat Tunnel for 6.2 miles under James Peak. You’ll travel into Winter Park Resort, Ruby Canyon and just west of Grand Junction where the train then enters Utah. The train arrives into Salt Lake City via the Wasatch Front after Soldier Summit.

Major Sites

Most people vacationing on the California Zephyr are riding for the views in Colorado, Utah and Nevada. There are also several ski resorts along the train route.

Major Stations

The major and notable stations on the Amtrak California Zephyr are Chicago, Omaha, Denver, Salt Lake City, Reno and San Francisco (Emeryville).

States Visited

The Amtrak California Zephyr travels into several states from Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada and finally arriving into California. There are at least 3 stops in each state.

Station Reviews

The California Zephyr route has terminus stations of Chicago on one end and Emeryville (San Francisco) on the other. Chicago has a Metropolitan Lounge to make your wait before boarding more enjoyable.

Both stations also offer free checked baggage, up to 2 bags per person of 50lbs.

Union Station – Chicago

Union Station in Chicago is perhaps the finest Amtrak station in the country. It offers easy access in the heart of Downtown Chicago and features the best Metropolitan Lounge you will find. There are plenty of fast food restaurants within the station where you can get food to bring back to the new 2 level Metropolitan Lounge. The entire station has a nice decor that makes you feel like you are about to take a special trip.

If you’d like to stay close to Union Station before or after your visit we recommend the Hyatt Place Chicago Downtown – The Loop , which is about a 5 minute walk from the station. We have also stayed at the La Quinta near the station . This is a generally safe area for Chicago, as we’ve walked to the La Quinta from the station at 2am with our bags and had no problems at all.

Emeryville Station

The Emeryville Station is a small station. There is minimal food available inside the station but there are several restaurants within walking distance. The station is the connection point to San Francisco via motor coach bus. There is also no Metropolitan Lounge at this station.

Emeryville has several hotels within walking distance of the train station. We stayed at the Four Points by Sheraton San Francisco Bay Bridge , and can recommend it. We walked there with our luggage after getting off the California Zephyr. A few others nearby are:

• Hyatt House Emeryville (closest to the station)
• Hyatt Place Emeryville

Trip Planning

The California Zephyr is a great train trip to link with a few other trains. If you are looking for a longer vacation, consider something like our 14 day Amtrak trip . On this trip we took the Coast Starlight from Los Angeles to Seattle, the Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago, and the California Zephyr from Chicago back to San Francisco.

You could also link the California Zephyr with the Lakeshore Limited and do a true coast to coast trip from California to New York and then fly back.

Note that the Amtrak stations in Emeryville (San Francisco) and Chicago are not near the airports, so if you are flying into those cities to start this route you’ll need to get a cab or Uber to the Amtrak station.

Booking Tickets

Tickets for Amtrak can be booked at Amtrak.com or using their app on your phone. Reservations can also be made by calling 1-800-USA-RAIL.

Allie Marmion

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America’s Most Beautiful Train Ride: A Trip on the California Zephyr

By: Joseph W. Smith III

The title of Stephen Ambrose’s book on the building of the transcontinental railroad is: Nothing Like It in the World .

That phrase kept revolving in my mind during a recent ride on Amtrak’s California Zephyr , surely the most beautiful train trip in the United States.

Indeed, on our particular journey, the Zephyr’s stunning pilgrimage through the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevadas—with towering crags, plunging rivers, winding rock cuts and dozens of tunnels—easily offset the annoyance of running several hours late the entire way.

It was July 2022; a friend and I took a bedroom for the full Zephyr run from Chicago to California. This would be the fifth of our annual rail vacations together—and the most memorable.

In addition to scenery, we had one engineer who brought his pet mouse along in the cab; we got delayed by a minivan abandoned on the tracks; and we relished an on-board romance between two people from different continents who had never met before. I dare say my friend and I finished this trek feeling like we’d just returned from another planet.

It did not start out auspiciously, however.

All Aboard…Or Not

Union Station in Chicago, starting point for the Amtrak Zephyr —and for many of the railroad’s other legendary long-distance trains.

Having reached Chicago from DC on Amtrak’s overnight Capitol Limited , we found that our 2 p.m. departure had been moved to 3:30—the first of several delays that saw us three hours late out of Denver, four out of Salt Lake City, five out of Elko, NV, and ultimately more than six hours behind at our final destination.

But tardiness is common on Amtrak. Except for the Northeast Corridor between DC and Boston, the company does not own its tracks and is thus subject to the dictates of “host” railroads. This explained some delays, as we sat for an hour behind a crippled freight in Nevada, sometimes ran at reduced speed due to overheated rails and lost priority to other trains after our late arrival in Denver snarled their lineup.

Somewhat less understandable was the initial three-ring circus in Chicago:

Around noon, one PA announcement stipulated a delayed 3:15 boarding; and then suddenly at 1:20, another told us all to line up downstairs, which roughly 100 of us did—only to be sent back up to the main waiting area 15 minutes later. You’ve heard about one hand not knowing what the other is doing, but I can’t help feeling there was a third hand here somewhere. Sheesh.

Room with a View

Comfortably ensconced in a spacious “Family Bedroom,” the author gazes out on Illinois farmland as Amtrak’s Zephyr starts its 52-hour journey to California.

We finally left Chicago around 4, settling in under the manful eye of our sleeping-car attendant, Robert. And here I might add that you are allowed to board Amtrak with virtually anything you can carry: six-packs, sandwiches, a pocket-knife, a cooler, a pile of carry-ons; and you need not remove your shoes or your belt. When it comes to long-distance trains, TSA is nowhere to be seen.

On these lengthy runs, John and I prefer the “Family Bedroom” over other available accommodations, which include regular coach seats (very roomy and affordable), along with the snug “roomettes” and the more costly deluxe bedrooms. (These latter all have their own toilet and shower.)

Among its 21 rooms, each bi-level Superliner has one family room that extends the entire width of the car—more than nine feet; this is possible because the hallway through each car is on the upper level, leaving each end of the lower level free for more spacious digs. (On this bottom level, there’s a full-width handicapped room on the opposite end.)

Family rooms feature a generous couch, two additional seats, a pair of fold-out tables and a small closet—plus windows on both sides; this is helpful for scenic runs because you never know which way the car will be facing. At night, the couch flattens into a bed, while a narrower bunk swings down from the ceiling; the room’s five-foot length also allows two smaller kid-beds along one wall—hence its name.

After stopping an hour outside Chicago to fix a broken air-hose, the Zephyr resumed its historic journey, crossing the mighty Mississippi and plunging into America’s heartland.

Fine Food and Friends

The Zephyr’s dining car is ready for dinner just after leaving Chicago on its two-day run to San Francisco; this will be the first of six scheduled meals served to sleeping-car passengers during the trip.

Having debuted in 1949 during the golden age of American trains, the California Zephyr operates daily in both directions between Chicago and San Francisco, taking more than 50 hours to cover its 2,438 miles. And yes, it still crosses much of the route originally laid down for the transcon in the 1860s.

With a departure carefully timed to provide daylight passage over both mountain ranges, the westbound Zephyr spends its first 20 hours crossing the great plains through Iowa and Nebraska.

And here, these Western Amtraks—like the Southwest Chief and the Empire Builder , essentially sisters of the Zephyr —break out their delightful and nostalgic hallmark: the dining car.

Windows run floor to ceiling on the Zephyr’s observation car, which has a cafe-lounge downstairs where riders can buy drinks, snacks and light meals.

Fresh flowers adorn each table in the nostalgic dining car on Amtrak’s California Zephyr .

Three daily meals are included with sleeper tickets, though Amtrak’s current (and hotly contested) policy is that coach riders cannot purchase dining-car meals; they must manage with lighter fare from the separate café-lounge car. Or BYO.

In addition to lunch and breakfast, the diner offers three-course dinners—appetizer, entrée and dessert—along with one complimentary alcoholic beverage. The food is fresh and tasty, and there’s decent choice at all meals. I recommend the morning French toast, the mid-day Monte Cristo sandwich and cheesecake dessert after dinner.

Crossing the mighty Mississippi on the train at Burlington, IA.

That first evening, John and I were seated with Rita, who was on her way to a daughter’s wedding in Colorado—and that’s another great thing about Amtrak: you never know whom you’ll eat with; on any one of these two-day trips, you wind up with a pile of new pals. A long-distance train is a self-enclosed world, and the unharried travelers tend to coalesce into a short-term but very cordial community. It’s the kind of thing that used to occur on transatlantic steamships; but now it happens only on the train.

Into the Wild

Amtrak’s Zephyr has climbed a couple of thousand feet out of Denver as it starts its scenic, eight-hour pilgrimage through the Rocky Mountains; the mile-high city is clearly visible on the plains below. Photo provided by the author’s fellow Amtrak-fan Derek Brown, of Buffie’s Best in Denver.

John is ex-Navy, so next morning we were up around 5 and seated for breakfast by 6 with Jeff and Cole, a father and son traveling to Martinez, CA. The Zephyr , meanwhile, was slated into Denver at 7:15; it arrived close to 10 and didn’t leave till well past 11.

I brought a handheld radio-scanner for listening in on engineers and dispatchers, and it was well-nigh comical hearing them struggle to find a slot for us among the busy freights and commuter trains. In any case, Denver is scheduled as a 50-minute stop, partly for crew change and partly because a lot of new passengers board at that station; from there, this train was sold out to Grand Junction, CO.

We would soon find out why.

Indeed, the jaw-dropping terrain over the next eight hours thrust aside all annoyance about lateness and delays. I’d been on this run twice before, but still stared spellbound as the Zephyr twisted back and forth on its rise into the pine-clad Rockies, with our oncoming track sometimes visible almost directly overhead.

Observation car and two following coaches bring up the rear of Amtrak’s Zephyr as it winds along the Colorado River through the Rocky Mountains.

Majestic Gore Canyon from Amtrak’s Zephyr as the train makes its way through the Rockies.

I lost count of tunnels at around 32, though I did note the famous and majestic Moffat Tunnel, which passes under the continental divide. Named for railroad pioneer David Moffat, who designed much of this difficult route 120 years ago, it is exactly 6.2 miles long—though at 7.8, the Cascade Tunnel on the Empire Builder is America’s longest. In addition to roughly 15 trains a day, the Moffat also carries pipes that provide drinking water for Denver.

Upcoming tunnel awaits Amtrak’s Zephyr as it skirts the Colorado River through scenic Byers Canyon.

Big sky and river from Amtrak’s Zephyr as it traverses the Rocky Mountains. If you want to build a railroad through tough terrain, follow a river—in this case, the Colorado, which this twisty trip traces for 400 miles.

Seen from Amtrak’s California Zephyr , the mighty Colorado stretches out along a sandbar in the heart of the Rocky Mountains.

Both the Colorado River and Amtrak’s Chicago-to-Frisco rail line run through craggy Byers Canyon in the Rockies.

A pair of Amtrak workhorses, the now-aging GE Genesis units, appear briefly in the train window as they lead Amtrak’s Zephyr toward a tunnel along Byers Canyon.

By now the Zephyr had climbed 4,000 feet out of the mile-high city and was about to enter its most scenic segment, slithering along the sheer rock walls of Gore and Byers canyons, while the roiling Colorado rushes past more than 100 feet below. At times you look ahead where two or three tunnels in a row cling to the cliffside; at others, you glance down to see rafters honoring a time-tested tradition by cheerfully mooning the train.

I have long contended that inside the soul of every middle-aged man is an adolescent boy who never grew up, and frankly I was dying to reciprocate this gesture of good will; but at age 62, that would give a whole new meaning to “indecent exposure”—plus I didn’t want Robert to have to clean the windows.

Eagle-Eyed Diners

Family bedrooms have one minor drawback: The windows are comparatively small. While I was standing in the upstairs corridor for better views of Gore, I met Shania, a chipper young Australian who, I had noted, seemed inseparable from a similarly cheerful young American named Gavin. I’d assumed they were a couple, but in fact they had only just met at Chicago’s Union Station, and now…well, maybe that had become a couple. When I grabbed a photo of them looking lovey-dovey on the final California platform, I felt certain they were headed somewhere together.

That evening John and I dined again with Jeff and Cole, the latter of whom was a good deal more talkative than he had been at 6 a.m. I pointed out one adult and two juvenile bald eagles in a tree on the riverbank, bringing my eagle-spotting total to eight since Denver.

Other sightings included deer, hawks, turkeys, herons, ducks, geese, osprey, egrets, cormorants and a lovely kestrel; but actual wildlife seemed sparse on this trip. On earlier Amtrak journeys, I had seen a beaver in a track-side creek—and most memorably, a grizzly bear from the Empire Builder as it passed through Glacier National Park.

By now we were almost through the mountains and paralleling Interstate 70, whose graceful curves and columns have been cunningly engineered to cut through these canyons without cluttering up the scenery. It is often double-decked and features many tunnels—including the Eisenhower, which is both the longest and highest in the interstate system: 11,158 feet of elevation as it passes under the continental divide.

Breakfast in the Desert

Sun peaks over the Nevada horizon, as seen from a family bedroom on Amtrak’s California Zephyr . The train normally traverses these barrens in the middle of the night, but a four-hour delay allowed its passengers this 5 a.m. glimpse of sunrise and desert.

There’s something otherworldly about the middle day of a two-night rail journey. With no responsibilities except to dine and gaze out the window, and with precious little internet or cell service, one feels almost totally unplugged—an increasingly rare experience in modern-day America. There’s a spacious, almost intoxicating freedom of a sort I have felt almost nowhere else in life.

Again on the second morning we arose at 5, with a blood-orange sun blazing through our window as it peeked across the desert horizon. At breakfast we were joined by Gale and Alex, who hailed from Martinique. This French-speaking couple managed modest English, with a heavy accent and a limited vocabulary that expanded a bit during our meal; meanwhile I dug up my pathetic French, which consists of maybe five words. (Fortunately, at parting, I did remember bonne chance .)

The Zephyr normally crosses this Nevada wasteland at night, so we were looking out on a barren, baking landscape rarely seen by train. When Alex gestured toward it and managed to ask, “What do they do with it?”, I had no answer.

Nothing Like It

Donner Lake in the Sierra Nevadas as seen from Amtrak’s California Zephyr . Nearly 6000 feet above sea level, this vast body of water was named for the infamous pioneer party that got stranded in a snowstorm and resorted to cannibalism for survival.

Amtrak swaps out its pair of engineers every four hours, which allows passengers to debark briefly for a “fresh-air stop,” colloquially known as a smoke-break. (Good luck reconciling those two labels.) After breakfast, John and I stepped into an oven-like day in Winnemucca, NV. As I thanked the departing engineers, I saw that one was carrying, along with his gear and knapsack, a small, clear plastic box; inside it, a white-and-brown mouse rested comfortably on a bed of wood chips. I was so taken aback I couldn’t say a word. Only later did I wonder whether he had an unusually aggressive cat at home. Or maybe this pet is his engine-driver’s good-luck charm.

We lunched with another father and son—a pair of Mormons who’d boarded in Salt Lake City—and then the Zephyr started climbing toward its second scenic segment: the Sierra Nevadas, including the Truckee River, plus Donner Lake and Donner Pass. These latter locales are named for the ill-fated pioneer party that got stranded in one of the range’s legendary snowstorms and resorted to cannibalism for survival.

Tunnels in the Sierra Nevada range as seen from the very back window on Amtrak’s California Zephyr .

With nonstop twists and turns, sprawling mountain vistas and another dizzying array of tunnels, the Zephyr’s route had been even harder to lay out than the one through the Rockies—largely because of snow. In fact, many of the line’s lengthy “tunnels” are actually sheds that keep snow off the tracks. As Ambrose recounts, the crews originally laying rails for this route in the 1860s were sometimes working under 40 feet of snow, with huge vertical shafts driven to the surface for ventilation.

Nothing like it, indeed.

Forbidding mountain terrain in the Sierras necessitated many twists and turns when laying out this line in the 1860s. This particular curve is viewed from the back window of Amtrak’s Zephyr as it makes its way toward San Francisco.

The Western long-distance trains usually include an observation car with floor-to-ceiling windows; these have several tables and an array of outward-facing chairs—but I like to leave it open for coach passengers, who often need to stretch out a bit.

So after two hours shuttling from side to side for the best views in our sleeper, I headed to the very back of the consist, where a single small window looks out on passing track and terrain. This proved a terrific vantage-point for more tunnels, bridges, curves and chasms; I must have shot 100 pictures, including some of Interstate 80, the main highway near my home in Pennsylvania. As I snapped a snowshed under this cross-country route, I could almost hear myself say, “Fancy meeting you here.”

The author captured this dashing view from the back window of Amtrak’s California Zephyr . It is not a tunnel per se, but rather one of many man-made sheds on the line, built to protect the tracks from the Sierra Nevadas’ legendary snowstorms.

The Last Supper

It now became clear that we’d be six hours late for our scheduled 4:10 p.m. arrival in San Francisco. So the dining-car crew announced they would serve an extra dinnertime meal to all passengers—even those in coach. Being somewhat last-minute, this was nothing special (beef stew, along with a vegetarian option); but it did allow us to make our last two new friends: Angie, a pastor returning from a conference, and the older Joan, whose two grandsons were taking her on an Amtrak dream vacation: four or five trains around the country, with various stops including baseball games in Denver and at Wrigley Field, along with a concert by James Taylor. Now that’s family love.

Speaking of this courtesy meal: Here’s a well-deserved shout-out to our hard-working diner staff—Chris, Dez and Justin; let’s face it, they had basically been on their feet from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. for two whole days. Not to mention the anonymous chef laboring in his lower-level kitchen. I spotted him once in the diner between meals, noshing on a plate of strawberries; next time I passed, he was leaning back in his table-seat, fast asleep.

Car on the Tracks!

Evening descended as we rushed toward our terminus, stopping at several California towns, including Martinez. Here, our assistant conductor miraculously rescued a cell-phone left aboard by Jeff or Cole, getting it out to them on the platform before our departure. What a pro!

Missing the usual daylight run along the bays of Suisun, San Pablo and San Francisco, we were nonetheless happy to be reaching the last station at a still-reasonable hour for cabs and Ubers. The Zephyr , incidentally, finishes not in San Francisco but across the bay in Emeryville; passengers are then bussed over to the city—but John and I had already determined to skip the Amtrak bus and get an Uber directly to our hotel.

And then we ground to another shuddering halt only two miles from our destination. The conductor informed us that an automobile was sitting on the tracks ahead—but it turned out the car was actually on an adjacent track, not ours. As we pulled slowly past, I could see a minivan situated not across the track but rather along it, with driver-side tires between the rails—as though the owner had tried to turn his vehicle into a train. Oh, well; at least he left his flashers on.

Two Tickets to Paradise

Six hours late at the end of a 2400-mile journey, Amtrak’s California Zephyr has finally arrived at the Emeryville station in California—right across the bay from San Francisco. The engineer leans out looking back, perhaps to make sure his train-set made this arduous trip in one piece.

Before long, everyone piled gratefully off at Emeryville, with many fond photos and farewells. It’s a good idea to tip your sleeping-car attendant, the more so with us, as we learned that Robert, who had just finished up a 60-hour shift, would shortly do the entire trip again, starting all over at 9 next morning on the returning Zephyr . Like the dining-car staff, these guys generally work four shifts a month: both ways on two trains, logging at least 150 hours. John and I would’ve happily returned with them on the eastbound, but we both had duties and planned to fly home in the morning.

Shania and Gavin have just stepped off the Zephyr at its California terminus in Emeryville, California. She from Australia and he from the United States, the pair had met just two days before, when preparing to board at Chicago’s Union Station. It seems they got to know each other pretty well during our 58-hour run.

Speaking of which: If a six-hour delay sounds irritating, consider the madhouse of SFO airport on a summer Saturday. In my case, this included the longest security line I have ever seen, filling the entire rope queue and stretching another 100 yards down the concourse; worse yet—for the first time in my life—American Airlines canceled my flight and then rebooked me 70 minutes earlier at a different airport .

Even without that ugly contrast, the California Zephyr was two days in paradise.

About the Author

Joseph W. Smith III is a writer, teacher and speaker in Central PA. Published in several websites and periodicals, Joe has also penned books on Hitchcock, the Bible, church life and under-the-radar movies—along with a volume of Great Jokes and Riddles. He plays trumpet in a community band; reads 100 books a year; serves as officer in his local church; struggles to keep cheering for the Buffalo Bills; listens to music whenever not sleeping; and maintains a small collection of unused postcards.

He can be reached at [email protected].

All images with the exception of image #7 courtesy of Joseph W. Smith III—image #7 provided by Derek Brown, of Buffie’s Best.

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This 2,438-mile Train Trip From California to Chicago Offers Views of the Rockies and Sierra Mountains Like You've Never Seen Before

The 51-hour California Zephyr train journey also stops in Salt Lake City, Denver, and Omaha.

With a reputation for being one of the most beautiful train routes in North America, Amtrak’s California Zephyr travels daily between Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area on a 51-hour, 20-minute trip traversing 2,437 miles.

"The California Zephyr passes through two mountain ranges that are gorgeous ," Amtrak spokesperson Marc Magliari told Travel + Leisur e, referring to the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevadas. "In some places, you can see views that can't be seen from the road because a lot of the railroad tracks were there well before cars were invented and roads were paved."

Passengers can take any portion of the route during its daily journeys through Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and California, which include stops in major cities like Chicago, Omaha, Denver , Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, and Reno, as well as Naperville, Lincoln, Fraser, Glenwood Springs, Davis, and Truckee. Although the Bay Area stop is on the East Bay in Emeryville, connections to both Oakland and San Francisco are available on the Thruway bus service.

Courtesy of Amtrak

Throughout the journey, there are plenty of stunning viewpoints. "Climbing out of Denver, you can look down from the train and be above the Mile High City as you first make your way through a whole series of tunnels that bring you up to a place called Fraser and Winter Park," Magliari said. "The train continues on winding its way through the mountain. You pass through Salt Lake City in darkness, but pop out in time to be through Reno when you're in the Sierras."

During this stretch, he said the charm comes in riding on the hand-built railroad between Reno and Sacramento, which is "part of the original transcontinental railroad route built during the Civil War to unite the country." That’s not the only historical aspect of the route — the name California Zephyr also dates back to the train that ran from 1949 to 1970 , before Amtrak even began.

Joe Raedle/Getty Images

Amtrak Train 5 leaves Chicago’s Union Station at 2 p.m. each day and pulls into Emeryville at 4:10 p.m. two days later, while Train 6 departs Emeryville daily at 9:10 a.m. and arrives in Chicago at 2:50 p.m. two days later. Both have lunch and dinner service the first day, three meals the middle day, and breakfast and lunch the third. 

Travelers can choose from a variety of accommodations aboard the train, from coach seats to bedroom suites. Five types of Superliner rooms are available across two levels, starting with the Roomette , measuring between six-foot-six to six-foot-eight in length and three-foot-six wide. It has two seats by day that are transformed into an upper and lower bed at night, with access to a shared restroom and shower in the car. 

Those craving more space and a private bathroom can upgrade to the Bedroom with twice as much space, at seven-foot-one to seven-foot-six long by six-foot-six to six-foot-eight wide. Sleeping two adults, this space has a sofa and separate chair that turn into an upper and lower bed at night, as well as an in-room sink, restroom, and shower.

Families can even go twice as big with the Bedroom Suite , which can sleep up to four adults. This is basically two Bedrooms attached, offering two of everything in the standard size. There’s also a Family Room , designed for two adults and two children, with seating for four during the day and two upper beds and two lower beds at night, plus a private restroom and shower. Passengers with disabilities can book the Accessible Bedroom , which can sleep two adults in an upper and lower bed. These accommodations have accessible features in the private restroom, as well as more space, with rooms as long as nine-foot-five and wide as six-foot-nine. 

Across all the Superliner rooms, the beds have newly upgraded bedding, pillows, towels, and linens, and customers also have a dedicated first-class attendant, lounge access, and priority boarding. 

For those who prefer more standard seating, Amtrak’s coach class is available, with reclining seats that have tray tables, reading lights, and electric outlets — and with two-by-two seating, there are no middle seats. 

Those staying in private rooms also get all meals included in the dining room, with seasonal menus featuring a variety of entrees, like omelets and quesadillas for breakfast and burgers and salads for lunch. The three-course dinners, which include wine, come with appetizers like caprese skewers and coconut shrimp, entrees like flat-iron steak and Atlantic salmon, and dessert like chocolate toffee mousse and lemon cake. Depending on availability, coach passengers may also be able to purchase dining car access once on board. Guests can choose to have the meals in their rooms, too.

All passengers have access to the cafe , which offers food a la carte, from breakfast items to burgers, tamales, and hot dogs throughout the day.

The California Zephyr also offers checked baggage service and trainside checked bicycles , and allows small cats and dogs on board (check for restrictions). 

No matter what portion of the route you take, the California Zephyr offers a way to experience America's landscape like no other, especially through some of the nation’s greatest mountain ranges, making it a glorious experience. Magliari said, "The difference between the California Zephyr and some of the other Western routes is simply more miles in the mountains."

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California Zephyr Route Map – Scenic Views, Stations & Attractions

Explore the California Zephyr route map and uncover the stunning of the Rocky and Sierra Nevada Mountains, the majestic Colorado River, and the iconic and along the way. Plan your journey with , on-board amenities, and expert tips for a comfortable and enjoyable trip.

Overview of the California Zephyr Route

The California Zephyr is a scenic train route that takes passengers on a breathtaking journey through the heart of America. This iconic route has a rich history and offers travelers a unique way to experience the beauty of the country.

History of the California Zephyr

The California Zephyr has a fascinating history that dates back to the 1940s. It was originally operated by three different railroads – the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad, the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad, and the Western Pacific Railroad. The idea behind the California Zephyr was to create a luxury passenger train that would rival the comfort and style of air travel.

The train made its inaugural run on March 20, 1949, and quickly became a popular mode of transportation for travelers looking to experience the scenic beauty of the American West. The California Zephyr was known for its luxurious amenities, including a Vista-Dome car that offered panoramic views of the passing landscapes.

Over the years, the California Zephyr has undergone changes in ownership and route modifications. Today, it is operated by Amtrak and continues to be a beloved train route for both domestic and international travelers.

Route Highlights

One of the main highlights of the California Zephyr route is the stunning scenery that passengers get to enjoy throughout their journey. The train passes through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the United States, offering views of majestic mountains, picturesque valleys, and winding rivers.

One of the notable landmarks along the route is the Rocky Mountains. As the train winds its way through the Rockies, passengers are treated to awe-inspiring views of snow-capped peaks, deep gorges, and dense forests. The Sierra Nevada Mountains are another highlight, with their towering granite cliffs and pristine alpine lakes.

The California Zephyr also follows the path of the mighty Colorado River, offering passengers a chance to witness its grandeur as it carves through the canyons. The train crosses the river multiple times, providing ample opportunities for passengers to take in the breathtaking views.

Length of the Route

The California Zephyr covers a distance of approximately 2,438 miles, making it one of the longest train routes in the United States. The journey begins in Chicago, Illinois, and ends in Emeryville, California, just outside of San Francisco.

The train takes approximately 51 hours to complete the entire journey, with multiple stops along the way. Passengers have the option to board or disembark at various , allowing them to customize their travel plans and explore different destinations along the route.

Traveling on the California Zephyr offers a unique opportunity to experience the vastness and diversity of the American landscape. From the bustling city streets of Chicago to the panoramic views of the Rocky Mountains, this train route is truly an unforgettable adventure.

Stations along the California Zephyr Route

Chicago union station, denver union station, emeryville station.

The California Zephyr, a renowned train route that traverses the stunning landscapes of the United States, stops at several notable along its journey. These serve as both gateways to the route’s breathtaking destinations and points of connection for travelers. Let’s explore three of the prominent along the California Zephyr Route: Chicago Union Station, Denver Union Station, and Emeryville Station.

At the heart of the Windy City, Chicago Union Station stands as a magnificent testament to the golden era of rail travel. This historic station, which first opened its doors in 1925, is not only a transportation hub but also an architectural marvel. With its grand Beaux-Arts design and elegant concourse, the station exudes an old-world charm that captures the imagination of visitors.

Once inside, passengers can find a multitude of amenities to enhance their travel experience. From cozy lounges to restaurants serving delectable cuisine, Chicago Union Station offers a welcoming environment for both locals and tourists alike. Additionally, the station’s central location provides easy access to popular such as Millennium Park, Navy Pier, and the Art Institute of Chicago.

Nestled in the heart of the Mile High City, Denver Union Station serves as a vibrant transportation hub and a cultural hotspot. This beautifully restored station, originally built in 1881, seamlessly blends historic charm with modern amenities. As you step into the station’s Great Hall, you’ll be greeted by soaring ceilings, intricate chandeliers, and a bustling atmosphere that showcases the city’s dynamic spirit.

Denver Union Station offers a wide array of services and amenities to cater to travelers’ needs. From locally-owned boutiques and shops to gourmet restaurants and bars, there is no shortage of options to explore within the station itself. The surrounding area, known as the Union Station neighborhood, is also bursting with life and offers such as the Denver Art Museum, the 16th Street Mall, and the lively LoDo district.

Located on the eastern shore of the San Francisco Bay, Emeryville Station serves as the western terminus of the California Zephyr Route. Although smaller in size compared to the previous two , Emeryville Station offers a unique charm that reflects the laid-back ambiance of the Bay Area. With its sleek and modern design, this station seamlessly blends into the surrounding urban landscape.

Upon arrival at Emeryville Station, travelers can easily access the vibrant city of San Francisco and the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. The station is well-connected to the Bay Area’s extensive public transportation network, making it convenient for visitors to explore popular such as Fisherman’s Wharf, Alcatraz Island, and the lively neighborhoods of Chinatown and Haight-Ashbury.

Scenic Views along the California Zephyr Route

The California Zephyr route is renowned for its breathtaking scenery that showcases the diverse natural beauty of the United States. As you embark on this remarkable journey, be prepared to be captivated by the stunning vistas that unfold before your eyes. From the majestic Rocky Mountains to the picturesque Sierra Nevada Mountains and the mighty Colorado River, each scenic view along the route offers a unique and awe-inspiring experience.

Rocky Mountains

The Rocky Mountains, an iconic symbol of the American West, dominate the landscape as the California Zephyr winds its way through this majestic range. As you gaze out of the train window, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of towering peaks, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls. The rugged beauty of the Rockies is truly a sight to behold, and it’s no wonder that this section of the journey is often considered one of the most scenic.

One of the highlights of the Rocky Mountains is the Moffat Tunnel, an engineering marvel that allows the train to pass through the Continental Divide. As you traverse this tunnel, you’ll emerge on the other side to witness the grandeur of the Rockies in all their glory. The sight of snow-capped peaks, alpine meadows, and crystal-clear lakes will leave you in awe of Mother Nature’s splendor.

Sierra Nevada Mountains

As the California Zephyr continues its westward journey, it ventures into the captivating realm of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Known for their dramatic landscapes and rich biodiversity, these mountains offer a visual feast for nature enthusiasts. From the towering granite peaks of Yosemite National Park to the pristine alpine lakes of Lake Tahoe, the Sierra Nevada Mountains never fail to impress.

One of the highlights of this section is the Donner Pass, a mountain pass that played a significant role in the development of the American West. As you traverse this historic route, you’ll learn about the challenges faced by early pioneers and gain a deeper appreciation for the rugged beauty of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

Colorado River

The California Zephyr follows the course of the mighty Colorado River, offering passengers a front-row seat to one of the most iconic waterways in the United States. As the train hugs the riverbanks, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of deep canyons, towering cliffs, and the emerald-green waters of the Colorado River.

One of the highlights of this section is the Glenwood Canyon, a narrow gorge carved by the river over millions of years. As you pass through this scenic wonderland, you’ll be mesmerized by the sheer walls of the canyon, which rise hundreds of feet above the water. The Colorado River and its surrounding landscapes have a timeless beauty that will leave you in awe of nature’s power and artistry.

The California Zephyr route offers an unforgettable journey through some of the most stunning landscapes in the United States. From the majestic peaks of the Rocky Mountains to the captivating beauty of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and the awe-inspiring Colorado River, each scenic view along the route is a testament to the natural wonders of this remarkable country.

So sit back, relax, and let the California Zephyr transport you through a tapestry of breathtaking scenery that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime.

Interested in learning more about the California Zephyr route? Check out these other sections:

Continue your journey on the California Zephyr by exploring these sections:

Attractions near the California Zephyr Route

The California Zephyr route takes travelers through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the United States. Along the way, there are several that are worth exploring and adding to your itinerary. From natural wonders to vibrant cities, here are three must-visit near the California Zephyr route.

Grand Canyon National Park

A Majestic Wonder

No trip to the western United States would be complete without a visit to the Grand Canyon National Park. Located in northern Arizona, the Grand Canyon is a natural wonder that leaves visitors in awe of its immense beauty and grandeur. Spanning over 277 miles in length, the canyon offers stunning views of its colorful rock formations and deep gorges.

Exploring the Grand Canyon

There are several ways to experience the Grand Canyon National Park. One of the most popular options is to hike along the rim trails, which offer incredible vistas and photo opportunities. For a more adventurous experience, visitors can descend into the canyon on one of the many hiking trails, such as the Bright Angel Trail or the South Kaibab Trail. Additionally, helicopter tours and river rafting trips are available for those who want to see the canyon from a different perspective.

San Francisco Bay Area

The Vibrant City by the Bay

As the California Zephyr reaches its western terminus in Emeryville, travelers have the opportunity to explore the vibrant and diverse city of San Francisco. Known for its iconic landmarks, rich history, and cultural diversity, the San Francisco Bay Area offers a multitude of attractions and activities for visitors of all ages.

Exploring San Francisco

One of the most recognizable landmarks in San Francisco is the Golden Gate Bridge. Take a stroll or bike ride across this iconic suspension bridge and enjoy breathtaking views of the city skyline and the Pacific Ocean. Another must-visit attraction is Alcatraz Island, once a notorious federal prison and now a popular tourist destination. Take a ferry ride to the island and explore the prison cells, learn about the island’s history, and enjoy the stunning views of the city from afar.

In addition to these landmarks, San Francisco is known for its vibrant neighborhoods, each with its own unique character and charm. From the bustling streets of Chinatown to the bohemian vibes of the Haight-Ashbury district, there is something for everyone to discover. Don’t miss the opportunity to ride the city’s iconic cable cars, visit the lively Fisherman’s Wharf, or indulge in some delicious seafood at one of the city’s many renowned restaurants.

Glenwood Springs

A Tranquil Oasis

Nestled in the heart of the Colorado Rocky Mountains, Glenwood Springs is a hidden gem along the California Zephyr route. This charming town is known for its natural hot springs, outdoor activities, and picturesque scenery.

Exploring Glenwood Springs

A visit to Glenwood Springs is not complete without a dip in the Glenwood Hot Springs, the largest hot springs pool in the world. Relax and rejuvenate in the soothing mineral-rich waters while surrounded by stunning mountain views. For the more adventurous, the nearby Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park offers thrilling rides, cave tours, and panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Outdoor enthusiasts will also find plenty of opportunities for hiking, biking, and fishing in the nearby White River National Forest. The Hanging Lake Trail, located just a short drive from Glenwood Springs, leads to a stunning turquoise-colored lake nestled in a picturesque mountain canyon.

After a day of outdoor exploration, take a stroll along Glenwood Springs’ charming downtown area, filled with boutique shops, art galleries, and cozy restaurants. Don’t forget to try some locally brewed beer or indulge in a delicious meal featuring fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Planning Your Journey on the California Zephyr

Traveling on the California Zephyr is an exciting adventure that allows you to experience the stunning scenery and rich history of the American West. To make the most of your journey, there are a few key aspects to consider: and pricing, on-board amenities, and tips for a .

Ticket Options and Pricing

When it comes to planning your journey on the California Zephyr, it’s important to understand the and pricing available. Amtrak, the operator of the California Zephyr, offers several fare types to suit different budgets and travel preferences.

First, there is the Coach Class option, which provides comfortable seating and access to the observation and dining cars. This is a great choice for budget-conscious travelers who still want to enjoy the and amenities on board.

For those seeking a bit more luxury, the California Zephyr offers a range of sleeping accommodations. The Roomette is a cozy option for solo travelers, with a private space that converts into a bed. If you’re traveling with a companion, the Bedroom offers more space and additional amenities. For the ultimate indulgence, the Suite provides even more room and features a private shower and toilet.

When it comes to pricing, fares for the California Zephyr vary depending on factors such as travel dates, route length, and accommodation type. It’s advisable to book your tickets in advance to secure the best fares and availability. Additionally, Amtrak often offers special promotions and discounts, so be sure to check their website or speak to a representative to find the best deals.

On-board Amenities

One of the highlights of traveling on the California Zephyr is the wide range of on-board amenities available to enhance your journey. From comfortable seating to delicious dining options, there’s something for everyone to enjoy.

The Coach Class seating on the California Zephyr offers spacious and comfortable seats, perfect for relaxing and taking in the views. Each coach car also features large windows, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the stunning scenery outside.

When it’s time to grab a bite to eat, the California Zephyr offers a dining car serving delicious meals prepared by talented chefs. From hearty breakfast options to delectable dinners, there’s a variety of dishes to satisfy your cravings. It’s important to note that dining car reservations are required for all passengers and are made on a first-come, first-served basis.

If you prefer a more casual dining experience, the California Zephyr also has a café car where you can purchase snacks, sandwiches, and beverages throughout your journey. It’s the perfect spot to grab a quick bite or a refreshing drink while socializing with fellow travelers.

For those looking to stay connected during their journey, the California Zephyr offers free Wi-Fi in select areas of the train. This allows you to stay connected with loved ones, catch up on work, or simply browse the internet while enjoying the scenic ride.

Tips for a Comfortable Journey

To ensure a comfortable and enjoyable journey on the California Zephyr, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

• Dress in layers : The temperature inside the train can vary, so wearing layers allows you to adjust to your comfort level.
• Pack essentials : It’s a good idea to bring a small bag with essentials such as toiletries, medications, and any personal items you may need during the journey.
• Stay hydrated : Traveling can be dehydrating, so be sure to drink plenty of water throughout your journey. Amtrak provides water fountains and vending machines on board for your convenience.
• Bring entertainment : While the along the California Zephyr route are captivating, it’s always a good idea to bring some entertainment for the journey. Whether it’s a book, a tablet, or your favorite music, having something to keep you entertained will make the time fly by.
• Take advantage of stops : The California Zephyr makes several stops along its route, allowing passengers to stretch their legs and explore the surrounding areas. Use these opportunities to get some fresh air and take in the local sights.

By keeping these tips in mind and taking advantage of the amenities and options available, you can ensure a comfortable and memorable journey on the California Zephyr. Whether you’re traveling for leisure or heading to a specific destination, the California Zephyr offers a unique and immersive experience that allows you to fully appreciate the beauty of the American West.

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Casey Ewald

Casey Ewald is a train and railroad enthusiast with a passion for all things locomotive-related. With years of experience in the industry, Casey has an in-depth understanding of the technology, history, and culture of railroading. In their free time, you can find Casey exploring the latest train routes and attractions, or tinkering with their model railroad at home.

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Railroads & Locomotives Tourist Railroad Profiles Amtrak’s California Zephyr day trip to Winter Park

Amtrak’s California Zephyr day trip to Winter Park

| Last updated on April 6, 2023

For skiers and railfans alike

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California Zephyr day trip to Winter Park

Amtrak’s California Zephyr is irrefutably one of the passenger railroad’s most picturesque and famed routes, for rail enthusiasts and historians alike. And thanks to the California Zephyr schedule today, passengers can enjoy a beautiful segment of the route in a single day and mostly in daylight hours year-round.

The California Zephyr ’s 10½-hour, round-trip experience between Denver and Fraser, Colo., begins at Denver Union Station at 1701 Wynkoop Street. The building was completed in 1914 to serve passenger trains operated by the Santa Fe, Burlington, Rock Island, Colorado & Southern, Union Pacific, and Denver & Rio Grande Western railways.

In 2012, Denver Union Station benefited from a significant renovation that converted the historic building into the intermodal transportation hub it is today. The facility includes the historic terminal building, an open-air train hall, a 20-plus-gate underground bus terminal, and is served by two rail systems operated by the Regional Transportation District, or RTD: an extensive light-rail network, and a commuter rail system including a route to Denver’s airport.

The California Zephyr is the sole long-distance train serving Denver today. The rail experience departs from the Mile High City each day on the westbound Zephyr, No. 5, at 8:05 a.m. MST. The journey begins on a mix of Union Pacific and BNSF Railway-controlled track as westbound No. 5 navigates out of Union Station’s stub-end passenger tracks through BNSF’s Prospect Junction and Union Pacific’s North Yard (MP 3.0). The early miles are through suburban communities such as Arvada.

Climbing the Rockies

Just minutes west of Leyden (MP 12.5), No. 5 climbs out of the plains of the front range through Big Ten Curve, a 270-degree curve with a track radius of 10 degrees. It is one of the first engineering marvels to be witnessed on the journey, constructed originally by the Denver & Salt Lake Railway, which would be acquired by the Rio Grande in the early 1930s, on what would later be known as its famed Moffat Tunnel Subdivision route operated by Class I successor Union Pacific today.

Following Big Ten Curve a few moments later is a horseshoe curve at Coal Creek Canyon. From here, the westbound Zephyr will pierce the Rockies through Tunnel 1, the first of 22 tunnels the Zephyr will traverse in the following 10 miles. These total 13,913 feet, or 2.5 miles of tunneling, and range in length from 164 to 1,752 feet. The terrain is remarkably rugged, with the Zephyr’s head end often entering the next tunnel before the train’s markers have exited the previous bore.

After passing through nearly two dozen tunnels, passengers readjust to natural light, exiting the Rockies long enough to catch a glimpse of South Boulder Creek at common photos spots such as Pinecliffe and Rollinsville (MP 42.0). Here, a segment of double track allows for a meet between an eastbound UP or BNSF Railway run-through freight waiting to descend Moffat into Denver. Otherwise, the Zephyr advances westbound at track speed on its climb to Tolland and on the approach to Moffat Tunnel’s East Portal (MP 49.5). Moffat Tunnel measures 32,797 feet, or 6.2 miles, and is named after David Moffat, the financier and visionary of the original Denver, Northwestern & Pacific Railway that also would become part of the Rio Grande. Moffat is known as the influential industrialist who envisioned a western railroad extending beyond Denver.

The railroad’s western link through the Continental Divide was completed in February 1928, only three years before the railway would be folded into the Rio Grande. The mountains above Moffat reach a peak elevation of 9,239 feet.

Visiting Winter Park

On average, the California Zephyr takes 10-11 minutes to travel through Moffat Tunnel before exiting its west portal at the popular ski town of Winter Park, with its station platform for the Winter Park Express (MP 56.6). For skiers and railfans alike, this is the former destination of Rio Grande’s Ski Train , a weekend passenger rail service hauling skiers between Denver Union Station and the Winter Park Resort that began in 1940. In the post-Rio Grande era, an investment firm took over the Ski Train , operating it in the late 1980s through 2009 until high operating costs prompted its cancellation. Amtrak revived the tradition in 2017 and continues operating it today as the Winter Park Express .

The Zephyr does not stop at the Winter Park Express platform; instead, passengers detrain at the joint Fraser-Winter Park station 3 miles west at Fraser (MP 61.9). An on-time Zephyr will arrive here at 10:02 a.m. Fraser and the area surrounding the station platform are predominantly residential, but a rideshare service, such as Uber or Lyft, will provide access to Winter Park proper. While notable for skiing, Winter Park is very much a four-seasons destination as Coloradoans and tourists enjoy the mountain outdoors year-round. Local restaurants and breweries are great afternoon stops as you enjoy a near 6-hour layover in the mountains. When on time, the eastbound California Zephyr, No. 6, is scheduled to depart Fraser-Winter Park at 3:50 p.m. MST with an early evening return to Denver at 6:38 p.m.

Tips & Recommendations:

• Use a rideshare or shuttle service and visit Big Trout Brewing Company in downtown Winter Park. Artisan shops, restaurants, and other local attractions in this tourist-oriented pavilion is a great way to occupy some of the afternoon downtime.
• About 2 miles east of Winter Park, or about 4 miles east of the Fraser-Winter Park platform, is the Winter Park Express station platform, located 100 feet west of Moffat Tunnel’s west portal. This is a great place to try your hand at catching a photo of a westbound freight on the heels of the Zephyr , but please remember the California Zephyr does not stop here, and you’ll need to allow sufficient time to journey back to the Fraser-Winter Park station.

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The World Through a Lens

Sharing Stories, and a View, Aboard the California Zephyr

A photographer traveled across America on one of Amtrak’s long-distance train routes. Here’s what she saw.

Glenwood Canyon in western Colorado, as seen from the observation car. Credit...

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Photographs and Text by Marta Giaccone

• July 18, 2022

I woke up around 5 a.m. to a low but incessant rumbling. Faint hints of daylight had appeared over my fellow passengers’ heads, most of which were still bent in rest. Some people yawned; others stared intently out the window at the valley. I had been aboard the train for about 40 hours, and there was still a long way to go before our scheduled arrival in the San Francisco Bay area.

Riding westbound, I walked to the back of the train to see the rising sun reflected on the tracks. We were passing through Nevada. A few minutes later we stopped in the city of Winnemucca, Nev., right in front of the Martin Hotel, which, at the end of the 19th century, catered to the Basque immigrants who’d moved there to work as shepherds.

Amtrak’s California Zephyr, considered by many rail enthusiasts to be among the most scenic long-distance train routes in the United States, operates between Chicago and Emeryville, Calif., near Oakland. The entire route takes some 52 hours and includes 33 stops. In 2018, while traveling through the United States on a three-month photography project, I completed a majority of the trip, departing from Mount Pleasant, Iowa, on a sweltering mid-August day.

I boarded the train at 5:59 p.m. in the golden light of a perfectly clear day, glancing outward at the first of a long series of soy and corn fields, and small-town backyards that are so often overlooked.

At 10:55 p.m. the 12 silver carriages of the Zephyr slowed and stopped in Omaha. Connie, another passenger, got on and sat next to me. At 72, she had short gray hair, a sun-kissed face and kind eyes. It was too late to start a conversation, so we both just tried to get some sleep. (Neither of us fully succeeded.)

In the early morning, while the yellow hills of Nebraska and Colorado rolled all around us, Connie told me she’d been visiting her daughter in Omaha and would be getting off that afternoon at Glenwood Springs, Colo., to meet her husband.

Eventually I started wandering through the cars, shyly but restlessly, wanting to meet and talk to everyone. It felt like the first day of summer camp. Small groups of people were mingling here and there, exchanging a few words. Others preferred to keep to themselves in their roomettes , or sat alone in their coach seats reading or napping.

The present-day California Zephyr began service in 1983, though an earlier iteration of the train — sharing the same name, but operated privately on a slightly different route — ran between 1949 and 1970.

In the 1970s, long-distance passenger trains like the Zephyr were unreliable and unprofitable and couldn’t compete with airplanes or the booming interstate highway system. But in the early ’80s, the reality reversed: Air travel worsened (fares skyrocketed, carriers abandoned marginal routes, competition intensified), and some Americans turned again to their network of trains. Short-distance train travel was often cheaper and more convenient, and the routes, conveniently, began and ended in city centers. In 1979, Amtrak added new Superliners — bi-level intercity railroad passenger cars — on its Western routes, and some people rediscovered a long-lost commodity.

As Henry Kisor describes in “Zephyr: Tracking a Dream Across America,” published in 1994: “The Zephyr represented a new conception of rail travel: the train as tourist cruise ship through a sea of scenery, not merely as a means of transportation from city to city.”

And the train’s schedule, as Mr. Kisor points out, encouraged passengers to sleep while the less exciting scenery rolled by — the Great Plains, and the arid landscapes of Utah and Nevada — and enjoy dramatic alpine views during daylight hours.

I spent most of my first full day in the observation car, also known as the Sightseer Lounge (and previously called the Vista Dome). The car’s floor-to-ceiling windows offered the best possible views across the Rocky Mountains, the Colorado River Valley, the Continental Divide, the Sierra Nevada and the green forests of Northern California. The soft blue chairs grant riders a bit of privacy, but the tables for four are where most of the socializing happens. Sitting across from Connie, I made friends with nearly everyone around us.

For a majority of people I met, traveling on the California Zephyr wasn’t about getting somewhere. Instead the trip was a reward — a slow and much-anticipated few days carved out of a busy lifestyle.

I met Joe, 33, and Mo, 38, a newlywed couple from England who had crossed the Atlantic on the Queen Mary II, gotten married and then boarded the California Zephyr in Chicago, planning to ride all the way to Emeryville. This was their honeymoon.

Then there were John, 33, and Emma, 27, two Amish parents from Pennsylvania who were headed to Grand Junction, Colo., for a specialist doctor’s appointment. Emma was crocheting a beautiful centerpiece on what was her very first train ride.

Rose, 18, Jenna, 23, two cousins donning neck pillows, were traveling home to San Francisco.

At the very end of the train, by the back window, I met Robert, 40, and his 2-year-old daughter, Madeline, who was napping in his arms. They were on a birthday trip, along with Madeline’s mother and grandmother. They had hopped on in Denver and would detrain at the end of the line.

Sitting next to Connie and me were Tyler, 10, and his grandfather, Bruce, 66. They had boarded the train in Iowa. Their plan: to tour Arches National Park and the Grand Canyon. They decided to both wear flashy T-shirts so as not to lose sight of each other.

Seated behind me was a group of florally clad Mennonites from Michigan. They were on their way to Glenwood Springs, and were talking animatedly about something they had spotted outside the window.

Aside from the observation car, the train’s other social hub is the dining car. I missed breakfast the first morning, so, on my second full day, I headed straight there. An attendant was busy setting the tables. The car’s booths sit four people, and all the meals are communal — meaning that, if you aren’t part of a group of four, then you’ll likely be seated with other passengers.

Fifty years ago, having a meal in the dining car was an elegant affair — think linen tablecloths, fine china, silverware. The waiters would dress in white jackets and blue bow ties, with long white aprons and towels over their arms. Now, they wear light blue shirts, red ties and blue aprons. The china and silverware are still there, but, based on old photographs I’ve seen, they look cheaper. There’s no linen in sight; it’s been replaced by large sheets of white paper.

Whenever I’m on a long-distance bus trip — I’ve traveled extensively around the United States on the Greyhound network — I get the feeling that passengers are there not because they choose to be but rather because they have to be, because the bus is either the only available or the cheapest option. (This was always true for me, anyway.)

When traveling by train, though, the atmosphere is completely different. There was a sense of community aboard the California Zephyr. After all, there aren’t many places where Mennonites, a Japanese student, smiley newlyweds, parents with their kids and grandkids in tow and retirees are all bundled together for such a long period of time, sharing their life stories.

And that, as Henry Kisor wrote, is part of the appeal for long-distance train passengers — “the joy of encountering humankind in its endless variety.”

Marta Giaccone is a photographer based in Tallinn, Estonia. You can follow her work on Instagram .

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places list for 2022 .

An earlier version of three picture captions with this essay misstated the locations shown. The lead image shows Glenwood Canyon, not Byers Canyon; the trackside scenery is in Arvada, Colo., not Nebraska; and the railroad crossing is in Fort Morgan, Colo., not Iowa.

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