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The Palenque National Park, in the State of Chiapas in southeastern Mexico is 9 kms (5.6 miles) away from the village of Santo Domingo de Palenque. It was one of the most important Classic Maya cities. It flourished between 300 and 900AD. Although the area it covered was relatively small, of only about 2.2 km 2  (0.85 mi 2 ) it boasted more than 1500 structures of a beautiful and unique architectural style... The park contains some of the most fascinating remains of the ancient Maya civilization.  Excavations and restoration at the site, started more than 100 years ago. It is a continued effort of the Mexican scientific community under the direction of Mexico's Instituto Nacional de Antroplogia e Historia (INAH). Visit and discover this magnificent site with us. We hope you will enjoy PalenquePark.com...   Read more

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The best tips & ideas for a visit to toniná, chiapas, at #10: a visit to toniná.

Although my last visit to Toniná was a while ago, I still remember the former Maya city well. A unique and beautiful site.

It’s a relatively small Maya site, but the central temple-complex or Acrópolis is enormous. Toniná must have been a considerable place in its blooming days.

The Acrópolis – which actually is a gigantic pyramid with seven terraces – reaches to the heavens . It’s 74m/ 243 ft high. Higher than, for example, the Pyramid of the Sun of Teotihuacán in Central Mexico.

Two visits to Toniná

I visited the site of Toniná twice in the past.

The first time was in 1992, when I travelled with my future wife Wendy through Mexico & Guatemala for three months. It was the second Maya city I ever visited, after my visit to Palenque a few days earlier. It was enough to get hooked forever on the fascinating Mundo Maya .

The second visit to Toniná was in 2001. I lived & worked in Guatemala at the time and during the Summer I visited Chiapas, Mexico. (This time not only accompanied by Wendy, but also our little daughter Lisa, who was 4 at the time.)

• Both times I took pictures of Toniná, but they got lost in time. That’s why I mainly use images shot by others in this post (after asking their permission). Below every picture I will mention its creator.
• Of course, I’d like to visit Toniná again asap to take my own pictures. For the time being, many thanks to the people who helped me out.

Before you read on:

• IMPORTANT : Throughout this post you’ll find affiliated links provided by affiliate marketing platforms like   Viator , GetYourGuide , Expedia & others. Links & ads that may help you plan your next trip to Yucatán.
• If you click on them & buy a ticket for a museum, book a tour or rent a bike a small commission of your purchase will go to me (paid by the provider, without any extra cost to you ).
• If you want to learn a little bit more about me, the blog writer, click on: Better call me Art .

A short history of Toniná

Toniná means “ House of Stone ” in the local Maya language (Tzeltal). Its original name was probably Po or Popo , which means “White” or maybe “White city”.

The city is located on the Western edge of the former Maya territory. 64km/40m south of Palenque in nowadays Chiapas, Mexico. Its biggest arch-rival in the Late Classic Period, when both cities reached their peak.

Rediscovery of Toniná

Toniná was rediscovered for the outside world in the 1830s. Soon thereafter the temple ruins were visited by the famous North American explorer John Lloyd Stephens & his British travel companion Frederick Catherwood (1840).

An adventurous couple that left us two beautiful 2-volume travel books about their journeys through the Maya World. Popular works that confronted many interested readers in the US & Europe for the first time with the fascinating Mundo Maya (See also my Introduction to the Maya World ).

A Classical Maya City

Toniná experienced its heyday between the 6th and 9th century AD.

As far as we know there was an almost continuous rivalry with nearby Palenque.

At the time both cities were backed up by the bigger Maya cities to the East. That is, Palenque by Tikal and Toniná by Tikal’s arch enemy Calakmul .

A rivalry that left some historical records – images & inscriptions – on the temple walls in both cities.

Like for example, the fact that in 687 AD the ruler or ajaw of Palenque, K’inich Kan Bahlam II – son of the Pakal the Great – managed to capture the ruler of Toniná (Generally known as “Ruler 2”).

• That is, warriors of Palenque captured Toniná highest authority, took him to Palenque where he – on a special occasion – was offered to the gods.

Almost a quarter of a century later – in 711 AD – it was Toniná’s turn. In that year their troops managed to capture the highest ruler of Palenque – Kʼinich Kʼan Joy Chitam II , also a son of the Great Pakal. Instead of killing him though, it seems they kept him captive for a decade.

• It’s unknown why Toniná chose this remarkable strategy. Probably it was a way to keep their main rival under control. Anyway, after about 10 years the former ajaw reappears in the records of Palenque. Without knowing if he ruled again as Palenque’s highest authority or was still bound to the rules set by Toniná.

A renewed visit to Toniná

As mentioned above, a renewed visit to Toniná is high on my Bucket list.

Just a few years ago I visited the beautiful state of Chiapas again. This time, coming in from Yucatán. I only found time to visit Palenque , Yaxchilán & Bonampak . All three amazingly beautiful places and high up in my Personal Top #15 of Maya sites .

Too bad I couldn’t include Toniná, but that – at least – gives me one more reason to go back to the beautiful state of Chiapas.

Tips for your visit to Toniná

Visit toniná – getting there.

Most people visit Toniná on their way from Palenque to San Cristóbal or vice versa.

If you have your own car the site is only 20 minutes away from the little town of Ocosingo . A place you’ll pass on the way.

A good option for sure. But if you have the time, I’d recommend you to stay overnight in Ocosingo. It’s a friendly place with a few basic hotels & some good authentic “mamita”-restaurants.

Staying overnight not only makes it possible to explore Toniná at your leisure. It also gives you the chance to get to know a smaller typical Mexican city.

Where to stay in Ocosingo

The best place to stay – relaxing enough to even consider staying a few nights – is the Campamento Rio Lacanja . This hotel provides basic, but clean cabins in a natural surrounding.

Click on the following link to learn more: Campamento Rio Lancanja

Visit Toniná – On a tour

Alternatively you can visit Toniná on a guided tour .

Click on their names to learn more:

GetYourGuide offers:

• A guided 4-hour tour from Ocosingo , as well as
• A day-trip to Toniná & Ocosingo from Palenque

Viator offers: A full day-tour to Toniná from either San Cristóbal de Las Casas or Tuxtla Gutiérrez

Visit Toniná – Further Tips

• Bring drinks & snacks. Toniná isn’t located in a tropical area – like Copán , Tikal , Yaxhá or Uxmal – but still, it’s a high climb to the top of the Pyramid.
• Visit the small, but beautiful site museum of Toniná . It’s always an extra when a smaller site has its own museum nearby.

Photo impressions of Toniná

Overview of My Top #15 Maya sites

Click on their name to go to the respective post:

• 1.  Copán , Honduras
• 2.  Yaxchilán & Bonampak , Chiapas, México
• 3.  Tikal , Guatemala
• 4.  Palenque , Chiapas, México
• 5.  Quiriguá , Guatemala
• 6.  Kabah & Labná , Yucatán, México
• 7.   Ek Balam , Yucatán, México
• 8.  Yaxhá , Guatemala
• 9.  Uxmal , Yucatán, México
• 10.  Toniná , Chiapas, México
• 11.  Cobá , Yucatán, México
• 12. Chichén Itzá , Yucatán, México
• 13. Tulum , Yucatán, México (under construction)
• 14. Calakmul , Yucatán, México (under construction)
• 15. Muyil , Yucatán, México (under construction)

For a complete overview of my personal favourites in one single post, go to:  Top #15 Maya-sites

For an overview of all travel posts of my blog, go to:  the Home Page .

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Privacy Overview

Toniná Mayan Ruins and Ocosingo City Tour

• Local guide
• Buffet breakfast
• Hotel pickup and drop-off
• Transport by air-conditioned minivan
• Entrance Fee to Archaelogical Site.
• Entry/Admission - Tonina
• Food and drinks, unless specified
• We pick up from any hotel in Tuxtla Gutiérrez or San Cristóbal.
• Not wheelchair accessible
• Confirmation will be received at time of booking
• Not recommended for travelers with back problems
• Not recommended for pregnant travelers
• No heart problems or other serious medical conditions
• Most travelers can participate
• This tour/activity will have a maximum of 12 travelers
• For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.

Similar experiences

• You'll get picked up See departure details
• 1 Tonina Stop: 3 hours - Admission included See details
• 2 Ocosingo Municipality Stop: 2 hours See details
• You'll return to the starting point

• edwardwI4115FL 0 contributions 1.0 of 5 bubbles They forgot to pick us up. We prepaid for our trip online at TripAdvisor. But we were never picked up! The local office said we would be reimbursed. Read more Written March 9, 2024
• Dreamer11374724016 0 contributions 1.0 of 5 bubbles Language selection gets ignored Be careful when booking with this company. I booked the English tour with included dinner and got a fully Spanish tour without dinner. When I complained I got no explanation and only a partial refund of 23 dollars, which is basically just the price difference to the Spanish tour. I obviously didn't understand a single word during the whole tour and had problems communicating about time schedules and pickup times with the drivers. The whole experience was unpleasant. Would not recommend this company. Read more Written November 20, 2023
• 620ronaldb 0 contributions 1.0 of 5 bubbles Stay Away From Ecoexperiences Tours Sumidero Canyon itself is quite nice. My review is specifically in regards to the tour operator Ecoexperiences. This company advertises, and charges more for, a tour with an English speaking guide and a buffet meal. Neither of those things were provided on my tour, yet the fee remained significantly higher than the normal cost. Trying to get an adjustment from them has resulted in one lie in which they stated they would make an unspecified adjustment that never transpired. My advice, shop price only, the added value features are a scam. You will find I am not the only reviewer here with similar experiences. Read more Written September 1, 2023
• Alba36333 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Lacandona Rafting We recommend 100% the Lacandona Rafting experience. Alejandro was our fun, acknowledgeable and experienced guide for the day. We had a misunderstanding regarding lunch which was nicely solved by Ecotours. There is approximately 3.5 hours between the activity and the pick up time which can be used to visit Bonampak. We suggest organising this with the agency in advance. Read more Written August 7, 2023
• H6224KRwilliamj 0 contributions 3.0 of 5 bubbles It was nice trip to see the ruins but it was a very long day and I wouldn’t do it again. The trip was good but the night before we were told we would be picked up at 530 instead of 6. We payed extra for the English tour but that was just for the ruins. You would think they could have had the bus driver hand out a translation of the gist of what he was saying. Paying extra was definitely not worth the expense. The guide spoke more in Spanish to the group than English. And the driver must have problems with night driving because he kept using his high beams on even though the trucks would flash at him. So they kept their high beams on. It was very bright so I wore my sunglasses. Several times the driver would be talking to friends or conducting business when we were all on the bus waiting to go. It was a long day and it was frustrating Read more Written August 6, 2023
• Daniella S 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Beautiful Waterfalls! Beautiful waterfalls! Not too far from Palenque and not overly crowded. Several tour companies at the bus terminal run tours for 300 pesos a person. Read more Written July 11, 2023
• Allison S 0 contributions 3.0 of 5 bubbles Beautiful Ruins! Beautiful Mayan ruins, great boat ride to Yaxchilan. We stopped for a buffet breakfast before the first ruins. Ordered lunch before the boat ride so it was ready when we returned. Super hot and humid in the jungle! Bonampak was after lunch. The paintings were gorgeous and so well preserved. There wasn’t dinner, but we stopped for five minutes to use the bathroom and were told we could have coffee. It was the same place we had breakfast. The guide that came with us was really great. Spoke multiple languages and took his time explaining the ruins. Our driver was intense, he drove really fast and hit a lot of things on the road. We had to stop multiple times so he could check to see if something was wrong. It was a very long day, but wonderful to see the ruins, the Bonampak painting especially. Read more Written June 25, 2023
• JustAskBexx 0 contributions 1.0 of 5 bubbles WORST HOSTEL IN CUENCA! My companion was extremely ill with a shattered hip and let someone stay in his room for the night because he's kind and always supports those who have nothing. Unfortunately this person turned out to have a drug addiction and a major bipolar disorder and ended up destroying part of the hotels furniture. Robert, whose name was the reservation was in, could do nothing about this man he couldn't even get out of bed to see what was happening with this crazy person he had let stay in his room. As they were taking Robert to the emergency room, and we were trying to remove his belongings from his room, the hotel would not let us take his things unless I gave them something in return which I did I gave them my $800 phone. Now they will not give it back and are claiming damages from this couch which was worth maybe $50 saying it was apraised is over 2,000! What kind of establishment does this to a man who was nothing but kind, had nothing to do with the damage done to the silly old couch worth probably nothing, and the police have the guy's name and the incident on record of who did actually damage the property yet they're still holding robert, who is still in the hospital, accountable for it. I want my phone back for I had nothing to do with this and was not a guest in the hostel to begin with. I would never stay here again for they will steal your possessions and then claim you owe them thousands of more money than you do! This is the worst place you could ever stay! I'm bringing a lawsuit up against them to get my phone back and taking the police there as well. Don't make a reservation because it'll probably be shut down by the time you get there. Read more Written June 24, 2023
• Tennesteban 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles A spectacular way to experience Cañón Sumidero. This experience takes you approximately 30km through the entire canyon from Lake Chicoasén to the dock at Chiapas de Corzo. The tour guide was well-informed and you get to see the towering canon walls, wildlife (birds, crocodiles, monkeys!). I would highly recommend this for anyone who's interested in experiencing Mexico's natural beauty. Read more Written May 11, 2023
• Gg198307 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles One of the best Worth every penny. One of the most beautiful trips I’ve ever taken, and if you are going to see Mexico, this is the way to do it. Oh and be sure to bring your swim trunks! Read more Written April 22, 2023
• heikeviaje 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Magic tour Long tour with experienced driver. Magic to visit two Mayan sites. Good guide. Well organized. Pickup from hotel. Breakfast and lunch good quality. Read more Written March 31, 2023
• thomas R 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Breathtaking Just breathtaking. I wish I could stop it there but I cannot. You will see crocodiles and spider monkeys. The mountains are unbelievable high and you navigate it on high speed. Prepare a drink and food as you will not get it and sit down for 2 hours at least. But t is worth it Read more Written March 7, 2023
• GuusMoney 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Great tour The guide, Jaïr, was awesome, the tour was amazing too! Really recommend. Great service, great care. Read more Written February 28, 2023
• Paradise68595319558 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles excellent short visit to Zinacantan and San Juan Chamula A nice, short, outing to two different Tzotzil villages. Our visit to Zinacantan happened to correspond to the Festival of San Sebastian, so the streets were crowded with local people wearing traditional special occasion clothing characteristic of that village. Our driver, Francisco, was not an official guide but was very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. He speaks Spanish and Tzotzil but not English. By coincidence he was also our driver from the Tuxtla airport to San Cristobal. Shuttle van was new and comfortable, with just 5 people in the group. Read more Written January 24, 2023
• janellejanes 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Sumidero Canyon Tour My daughter and I took this trip together. We went in December and that was a great time to go. The canyon tour started with viewing from above. Then we drove down to the bottom where we went on the boat tour. We both thought is was beautiful and very informative. It is a long day but we’ll worth it. Read more Written January 9, 2023

More to explore in Tuxtla Gutierrez

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as wait time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

Toniná Mayan Ruins and Ocosingo City Tour provided by Ecoexperiencias Mexico

• Reserva Ahora:
• +52 967 164 2149
• [email protected]

Tours a las Zonas Arqueológicas de Chiapas

Reservaciones al +52 967 164 2149, ¿qué esperas para visitar chiapas reserva ahora ¿o tienes dudas haz click, c iudad prehispánica cuyo significado en tzeltal es “casa grande de piedra”. es un espacio sagrado constituido por una montaña artificial de siete plataformas, levantada sobre una colina calcárea que domina un extenso y alargado valle. toniná vivió su apogeo entre finales del siglo vi y principios del x d.c..

Fue una potencia militar como lo testimonian las abundantes representaciones de prisioneros en estuco y piedra. Su más importante gobernante fue Tzots Choj, “Murciélago-tigre”. En Toniná se escribió, en 909, la última inscripción de los mayas de la epóca clásica.

Al sitio se accede por la cancha del juego de pelota de los prisioneros, una de las mayores de su tiempo, situada en la gran plataforma, donde también se yergue el Altar de los Sacrificios y se abre la cancha del juego de pelota de los katunes, junto al cual hay varias muestras escultóricas.

El palacio del inframundo se esconde en la tercera plataforma, mientras que en la cuarta se halla el palacio de las grecas y la guerra, cuya fachada está compuesta por cuatro grecas espirales escalonadas.

Sobre el talud de la sexta plataforma se ubica el mural de los cuatro soles, una especia de códice hecho en estucoque representa el mito de las cuatro eras cosmogónicas por las que atraviesa el mundo.

En él, los soles de cada ciclo están representados por cabezas humanas que caen.Sobresaliente es la representación del sol de la muerte que sostiene en sus manos la cabeza de un decapitado. También en la sexta plataforma, está el templo del monstruo de la tierra, con la representación en estuco del monstruo devorando una esfera solar de piedra. Este templo está orientado de acuerdo a los solsticios de invierno y primavera. Por último, sobre la séptima plataforma se levantan los templos de los prisioneros y del espejo humeante, el principal en el punto más elevado del conjunto, el más alto de Mesoamérica. Toniná cuenta con un espléndido Museo de Sitio, ubicado en medio de una explanada rectangular construida para recordar el mito de la creación del universo como era concebido por los pueblos de la antigüedad.

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© Rubi Rodriguez Martinez/Shutterstock

Top choice in Chiapas

The towering ceremonial core of Toniná, overlooking a pastoral valley 14km east of Ocosingo, is one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in Chiapas. This was the city that temporarily brought mighty Palenque to its knees. However, despite the ruins here being veritable poems in stone, and the sheer importance of the site, few people bother to visit – which is all the better for those who do.

The year AD 688 saw the inauguration of the Snake Skull–Jaguar Claw dynasty, with ambitious new rulers bent on controlling the region. Palenque was their rival state, and when Toniná captured the Palenque ruler K’an Joy Chitam II in 711, it’s likely that he had his head lopped off here.

Toniná became known as the Place of the Celestial Captives, because its chambers held the captured rulers of Palenque and other Maya cities, who were destined to be ransomed for large sums or decapitated. A recurring image in Toniná sculpture is of captives before decapitation, thrown to the ground with their hands tied.

To enter the site, follow the road from the entrance and site museum , which details Toniná’s history (in Spanish) and contains most of the best artifacts. The road turns into a footpath, crosses a stream and climbs to the broad, flat Gran Plaza . At the south end of the Gran Plaza is the Templo de la Guerra Cósmica (Temple of Cosmic War), with five altars in front of it. Off one side of the plaza is a ball court , inaugurated around AD 780 under the rule of the female regent Smoking Mirror. A decapitation altar stands cheerfully beside it. In 2011 archaeologists discovered two life-size stone sculptures of captive warriors inscribed as being from Copán (in Honduras), confirming that Maya kingdom’s wartime alliance with Palenque.

To the north rises the ceremonial core of Toniná, a hillside terraced into a number of platforms, rising 80m above the Gran Plaza. At the right-hand end of the steps, rising from the first to the second platform, is the entry to a ritual labyrinth of passages .

Higher up on the right-hand side is the Palacio de las Grecas y de la Guerra (Palace of the Grecas and War). The grecas are a band of geometrical decoration forming a zigzag x-shape, possibly representing Quetzalcóatl. To its right is a rambling series of chambers, passages and stairways, believed to have been Toniná’s administrative headquarters .

Higher again is Toniná’s most remarkable sculpture, the Mural de las Cuatro Eras (Mural of the Four Eras). Created between AD 790 and 840, this stucco relief of four panels – the first, from the left end, has been lost – represents the four suns, or four eras of human history. The people of Toniná believed themselves to be living in the fourth sun – that of winter, the direction north, mirrors and the end of human life. At the center of each panel is the upside-down head of a decapitated prisoner. Blood spurting from the prisoner’s neck forms a ring of feathers and, at the same time, a sun. In one panel, a dancing skeleton holds a decapitated head. To the left of the head is a lord of the underworld, resembling an enormous rodent.

Up the next set of steps is the seventh level, with remains of four temples. Behind the second temple from the left, more steps descend into the very narrow Tumba de Treinta Metros (Thirty-Meter Tomb), an impossibly slim passageway that’s definitely not for the claustrophobic!

Above here is the acropolis , the abode of Toniná’s rulers and site of its eight most important temples – four on each of the two levels. The right-hand temple on the lower level, the Templo del Monstruo de la Tierra (Temple of the Earth Monster), has Toniná’s best-preserved roof-comb, built around AD 713.

On the topmost level, the tallest temple, the Templo del Espejo Humeante (Temple of the Smoking Mirror), was built by Zots-Choj, who took the throne in AD 842. In that era of the fourth sun and the direction north, Zots-Choj had to raise this, Toniná’s northernmost temple, highest of all, which necessitated a large, artificial northeast extension of the hill.

Guides wait at the entrance; some speak English. They charge around M$300 to M$400 for up to four people.

Combis to Toniná (M$15) leave from a roofed depot next to Ocosingo’s Tianguis Campesino every 30 minutes. The last one returns around 5:30pm. A taxi costs between M$150 and M$180. There are currently no security issues surrounding a visit here.

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La montaña hecha por los mayas

Sumérgete en la rica historia maya al explorar Toniná, una joya arqueológica en el corazón de Chiapas. Desde la imponente Pirámide del Acantilado hasta las inscripciones jeroglíficas que narran eventos milenarios, cada rincón de Toniná ofrece una experiencia fascinante. Descubre la majestuosidad de esta ciudad antigua, que, a diferencia de otros sitios, te permite sumergirte en la historia y la energía ancestral en un entorno menos concurrido, ofreciendo una aventura arqueológica única en Chiapas.

5 días, 4 noches

Experiencia

Chiapas en verano.

$4,750 mxn por dos personas ocupación doble Itinerario Incluye Detalles

Chiapas Auténtico 2×1

$5,450 mxn por dos personas ocupación doble Itinerario Incluye Detalles

Embárcate en una aventura arqueológica en el corazón de Chiapas explorando Toniná, un sitio maya que cautiva con su majestuosidad y misterio. A diferencia de otras zonas arqueológicas, Toniná ofrece una experiencia menos concurrida, permitiéndote sumergirte en la rica historia y arquitectura maya.

Descubriendo las Maravillas de Toniná

Explora imponentes estructuras, plazas y templos que revelan la grandeza de la civilización maya. La Pirámide del Acantilado, con sus más de 70 metros de altura, te brindará vistas impresionantes de la selva circundante. Sumérgete en la energía ancestral mientras caminas entre las ruinas que cuentan historias milenarias.

Encuentro con la Historia Maya

Toniná, enclavada en las montañas chiapanecas, alberga inscripciones jeroglíficas y artefactos que narran eventos históricos y la compleja jerarquía de esta antigua civilización. Descubre la riqueza cultural mientras paseas por sus plazas ceremoniales y patios.

Información del Lugar

Situada estratégicamente, Toniná fue un importante centro político y militar. La arquitectura monumental y la distribución única del sitio ofrecen una visión fascinante de la sociedad maya. La densa vegetación que rodea Toniná agrega un toque de misterio y naturaleza a la experiencia.

Información

Geografía e historia.

Enclavada en la selva chiapaneca, Toniná es una antigua ciudad maya que se alza entre colinas y vegetación exuberante. Aunque menos conocida que otras ruinas mayas, su entorno ofrece una experiencia única.

Construida entre los años 200 y 900 d.C., Toniná fue un importante centro político y ceremonial. Su arquitectura monumental, pirámides y estelas cuentan la historia de una civilización avanzada.

Arquitectura y Monumentos

Toniná destaca por su Gran Acrópolis, una estructura imponente que alberga pirámides y palacios. La Plaza Hundida y la Plaza de los Prisioneros son testigos del ingenio arquitectónico y la riqueza simbólica de los mayas.

Cultura Maya

Las inscripciones y relieves en Toniná ofrecen una visión profunda de la mitología y la vida cotidiana de los mayas. La ciudad desafía algunas concepciones al mostrar evidencia de conflictos y conquistas.

Naturaleza Circundante

Rodeada por la selva chiapaneca, la visita a Toniná no solo es un viaje a la antigüedad, sino también una inmersión en la biodiversidad. Los sonidos de la naturaleza acompañan la exploración de las ruinas.

Desde la cima de las pirámides, se obtiene una vista panorámica de la selva circundante. La experiencia de subir a estas estructuras y contemplar el paisaje es única en comparación con otras ruinas mayas.

Cultura Local y Accesibilidad

Cerca de Toniná, comunidades indígenas ofrecen artesanías auténticas. Este es un lugar ideal para adquirir textiles, cerámicas y objetos únicos que reflejan la rica herencia cultural de Chiapas.

Aunque menos visitada, la accesibilidad a Toniná es una ventaja. Los visitantes pueden explorar las ruinas sin las multitudes, lo que permite una experiencia más íntima y reflexiva

Recomendaciones

Mejor época para visitar.

La visita a Toniná debe realizarse durante la temporada seca, de noviembre a marzo , cuando se hace posible ingresar sin riesgos a la zona.

Ropa y Calzado Adecuado: Utiliza ropa cómoda y zapatos adecuados para caminar, ya que la zona es muy grande y puedes subir las pirámides y adentrarte a la selva.

Protección Solar: El sol puede ser intenso, así que no olvides el sombrero, las gafas de sol y el protector solar.

Agua y Alimentos: Lleva suficiente agua y bocadillos, especialmente si planeas pasar todo el día explorando el área.

Equipo de Observación: Binoculares para la observación de las ruinas y una cámara con buen zoom para capturar la fauna, la vegetación y la arqueología.

Guía de Viaje o App: Para entender mejor la historia y el significado de las estructuras.

Consejos de sostenibilidad

No Toques los Relieves ni las Esculturas: Ayuda a preservar este sitio histórico para las generaciones futuras.

Sigue los Senderos Marcados: Protege la flora y fauna locales y respeta las áreas restringidas.

Apoya a las Comunidades Locales: Compra artesanías y productos de los vendedores locales, lo que ayuda a la economía de la comunidad.

Más destinos

Cascadas el Corralito

Cascadas las Nubes

Cascadas de Misol Ha

Cascadas Roberto Barrios

Zona Arqueológica de Palenque

© 2024 Disfruta Chiapas S.A. de C.V. Todos los derechos reservados. Queda prohibida la reproducción total o parcial de cualquier parte de este sitio sin nuestro permiso por escrito.

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Toniná en Chiapas

Toniná es una Zona Arqueológica Maya ubicada en Ocosingo, Chiapas, donde se encuentra la pirámide más alta de todo México. Básicamente, esta gigantesca estructura de más de 70 metros de alto, está dividida en 7 niveles y desde lo más alto se tiene una vista panorámica de todo el Valle de Ocosingo.

Algo que caracteriza a este sitio es que por todos lados hay discos grabados, murales y laberintos. Sin duda, Toniná es uno de los sitios arqueológicos más impresionantes de México y un fiel ejemplo de lo avanzada que llegó a ser la arquitectura Maya durante su apogeo, que fue el periodo clásico.

Qué hacer en Toniná

  1. juego de pelota, 2. acrópolis, 3. cima de la gran pirámide, 4. queso de bola de ocosingo, 1. juego de pelota.

Apenas entras a la Zona Arqueológica y ya es posible admirar una muy peculiar cancha de juego de pelota, pues tiene esculturas de personas hincadas con las manos hacia atrás, lo cual indica que ésta cancha era para prisioneros que capturaban de ciudades enemigas y a quienes sacrificaban.

Recordemos que los Mayas fueron guerreros y que no eran una civilización unificada, entre ellos mismos habían alianzas y enemigos. El principal enemigo de Toniná fue la ciudad de Palenque , de donde se dice que capturaron a 2 prisioneros muy  importantes, los hijos del máximo gobernante Pakal.

La gran pirámide de Toniná se encuentra construida sobre una colina, que a primera vista pueden parecer recintos independientes, pero todo ese conjunto es una sola construcción dividida en 7 niveles, donde hay diversos templos, palacios y murales que han sobrevivido a más de 1,000 años.

Uno de los murales más impresionantes y mejor conservados es el de los 4 Soles que representa la preocupación de los sacerdotes por la llegada del cuarto sol o la llegada de las tinieblas, pues Toniná emprendió numerosas guerras para tomar prisioneros a líderes de otras ciudades y ofrecer su sangre divina.

Después de subir por 260 escalones se llega a la cima de la gran pirámide, que con 75 metros supera en altura a la pirámide del Sol en Teotihuacan y a la de Cholula en Puebla, lo que le da el título de la pirámide prehispánica más grande de todo el país, en cuanto a altura se refiere.

Llegar a este punto puede ser de gran esfuerzo para algunos, por lo que es muy recomendable usar un sombrero para el sol y llevar agua para hidratarse en el camino. Pero como es de esperarse, entre más se sube, más impresionante se vuelve la vista hacia el valle de Ocosingo.

Obviamente no podíamos irnos de Ocosingo sin probar sus famosos quesos, reconocidos mundialmente por ser de muy alta calidad. Las condiciones de la región de Ocosingo como el clima, altitud y tipo de suelo, ayudan a que las vacas produzcan muy buena leche, de la que se obtienen quesos muy sabrosos.

Nosotros visitamos la quesería familiar “Queshill”, donde aprendimos un poco más acerca de la elaboración de sus productos. Algo que nos llamó la atención fueron los quesos combinados, pues ahí se usa mucho envolver un queso en otro tipo de queso. ¡Una total innovación para nosotros!

Nuestro favoritos fueron el queso doble crema envuelto en quesillo y la joyita de Ocosingo, el Queso de Bola, que es un queso doble crema envuelto en una capa de queso descremado. En México no es muy conocido, pero es un producto artesanal que se exporta mucho y que incluso se considera gourmet.

Información relevante

Cómo llegar, tips generales, dónde comer, cuándo ir a toniná.

• Mejor clima:  Todo el año hace muchísimo calor, pero de Noviembre a Febrero el clima es mucho más agradable.
• Temporada de lluvias: Suele llover de Junio a Octubre, si planeas visitar los demás destinos en Chiapas, mejor evita esta temporada.
• Domingos: Todos los Domingos la entrada es gratuita para mexicanos y residentes. Toniná en general es poco concurrido, así que incluso los domingos es muy agradable visitarlo con poca gente.

Cómo llegar a Toniná

• Ocosingo está a la mitad de Palenque y San Cristóbal , se hacen aprox. 3 horas, y de Ocosingo a Toniná son otros 20 min de trayecto.
• No es de siempre, pero puede haber bloqueos en los que la misma gente de las comunidades pone una cuerda para pedir dinero. La recomendación es llevar monedas para que te dejen pasar.

Transporte Público:

• Toma un autobús a Ocosingo desde San Cristóbal de las Casas o desde Palenque por aprox. $80 pesos y posteriormente toma ahí mismo un colectivo hacia Toniná por aprox. $15 pesos.

Costos en Toniná

• Entrada a la Zona Arqueológica:  $60 pesos por persona
• Guía Turístico:  Entre $100 y $200 pesos
• Estacionamiento:  Sin costo

Tips para visitar Toniná

• Lleva zapatos cómodos y usa ropa ligera.
• Ponte protector solar y lleva sombrero ya que hace mucho calor.
• Lleva tu propia botella de agua, la caminata a la cima te lo exigirá.
• Lleva suficiente dinero en efectivo ya que no hay cajeros automáticos y no aceptan pago con tarjeta.
• No hay señal telefónica, así que mejor pon tu celular en modo avión, si no quieres que se te acabe la pila en un dos por tres.

Hospedaje en Toniná

• Ocosingo: El sitio más cercano de Toniná para hospedarse es Ocosingo, donde hay bastantes opciones de hoteles y alojamientos por Airbnb.
• Agua Azul: Si vas en ruta, lo más cercano es Agua Azul , este centro ecoturístico está a una hora y media y cuenta con cabañas desde $250 pesos la noche, para dos personas.

Dónde comer en Toniná

• Zona arqueológica : Dentro de la zona arqueológica hay un pequeño restaurante con precios muy accesibles, te recomendamos que pruebes el pay de nuez de macadamía por $30 pesos.
• Ocosingo:  En el pueblo hay diversos restaurantes para todos los gustos y bolsillos. No dejes de probar los quesos de Ocosingo, sin duda, de los quesos más ricos que hemos probado, te recomendamos el Quesillo y obviamente la especialidad de Ocosingo: el Queso de Bola.

Todo acerca de Chiapas

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Hola, es peligrosa las carreteras de Chiapas si tú vas por tu cuenta a los lugares turísticos???

Hola Claudia, en general las carreteras de Chiapas nos parecieron seguras, sólo evita manejar de noche. No es de siempre, pero puede haber bloqueos específicamente en el tramo de San Cristóbal a Agua Azul. La misma gente de las comunidades y más los niños, ponen una cuerda para impedir el paso y así poder vender algo o simplemente pedir dinero. Nuestra recomendación para los bloqueos es que lleves monedas o cambio y que cooperes por las buenas, ya que si no les das nada, no bajan la cuerda y sencillamente no te dejan pasar.

Esto de los bloqueos empezó hace años originalmente como una manifestación contra del gobierno, pero lamentablemente ya agarraron colmillo y vieron la forma fácil de sacarle dinero al turista. Realmente no hacen daño ni son agresivos, pero pueden llegar a ser intimidantes, sobre todo si traen pasamontañas en las caras…. No te asustes, lo hacen precisamente para intimidar.

Si te da inseguridad este tema, te recomendamos que mejor hagas los destinos por medio de tours, la ventaja de ellos es que van en caravanas y salen muy temprano, escoltados por la policía federal.

Te dejamos todas nuestras recomendaciones de Chiapas aquí: https://www.sinpostal.com/chiapas-guia-de-viaje/

Hola, Toniná es una de las opciones que tengo pensada de tour desde San Cristóbal de las Casas. ¿Qué tal es la seguridad de la zona de dia? Parece que no hay muy buenas opiniones de la carretera por Ocosingo

Hola Miguel, viajar en tours sí es seguro, por lo que sabemos todas las vans salen a la misma hora y las escoltan los federales. A nosotros no nos tocó ver nada fuera de lo común, pero también los locales nos recomendaron que evitaremos el tramo de San Cristóbal a Ocosingo, sobre todo de noche. Saludos y buen viaje =)

Saludos, chicos cuando van a tener tours por Chiapas ?

Esperamos que muy pronto, saludos Blanca

Gracias a este vídeo, pasaremos a desayunar en Ocosingo. Teníamos planeado irnos directo de Comitán a Agua Azul, pero haremos esta escala para comer. Esperamos que en diciembre podamos encontrar algún lugar que venda los zats, porque la cara de José Luis disfrutándolos, nos dejó con la curiosidad de comerlo. Todos están anotados para disfrutar los manjares de Ocosingo. Gracias chicos!

Hola Natalia, nos alegra mucho que vean nuestros videos y que les guste nuestro contenido, buen viaje y que lo disfruten mucho, saludos =)

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Toniná: Guide To Mexico’s Lesser-Visited Mayan Ruins

This underrated location in Mexico has some of the most stunning Mayan ruins in the country

In the Mexican state of Chiapas, Mayan and Pre-Colonial ruins are the order of the day for truly adventurous travelers. From Palenque to Izapa to Lagartero, fascinating archeological sites are available for visitors’ viewing and exploration pleasure. Among them, though, is a less popular and yet incredibly stunning ancient city of war, power, and breathtaking pyramids: Toniná, in Ocosingo, will hit all the historical travel hot spots.

Built on a hill just outside Ocosingo, the ruins of the complex ancient city of Toniná rise amongst the jungle and hills - for a long time confused with a hill itself, archeologists have for the past two decades uncovered one of the most interesting and complex examples of the monumental constructions of the Mesoamerican period and the Mayan Empire.

A Warrior Jewel Of The Mayan Empire

Toniná, which can mean stone house or the place where stone structures are built, in honor of time in the Tzeltal language, is a fairly accurate descriptor of the site. Built in between the jungles that now make up the fields surrounding Ocosingo, Toniná is a mighty, monumental pyramid city structure built entirely of the once-white stone of the region. The architecture, as is usual in the Mayan culture, is guided by astronomical values, seeking to homage the natural mountains and creating harmony with the sky, and honoring the deities of the Sun, Moon, Venus, and Earth.

Toniná’s history is long , as there are indications that it was inhabited for at least a thousand years. Its greater age of power was in the late Classic Mayan Period, around the 7th through 9th centuries. It was a city of great military might and power, as can be seen in the depictions of captors, prisoners, and their customary sacrifices, in all of its temples; at the height of its power, it was one of the most important cities in Mesoamerica.

Throughout its rule, Toniná's main enemy seems to have been the city of Palenque, about 60 kilometers away, whose ruins and archeological sites can also be visited. Carvings that seem to indicate the capture of two of Palenque’s rulers can have ushered in Toniná’s golden age.

Like most of the great Mayan cities, it is difficult to know exactly what caused its decline, though the arrival of the Aztecs and later the European invaders are what historians associate with Toniná’s decline and eventual disappearance.

Related: Max And Relax At This Hidden Mexican Airbnb In The Mayan Jungle

The Great Pyramid

Dating back to the 6th century, the Toniná Acropolis is a complex and unique structure, expanding for over 300 meters in width and 75 meters in height - the tallest pyramid in all of America, even beyond the Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan. It comprises seven stories, thirteen temples, palaces, murals, statues, and a Pitz court, the ancient Mayan ball game.

Toniná is so big, for years it was thought carved into a hill, but today evidence shows it is almost entirely man-made - and only 30% of its total structure has been excavated, according to local archeologists.

An Underrated Masterpiece Of Mesoamerica

Much less crowded than the neighboring, former enemy’s Palenque ruins, Toniná is considerably unknown and less popular a tourism destination; this propitiates visitors with nearly deserted access to the ancient Mayan ruins.

There’s no price to pay for the opportunity to tread through these stunning ancient ruins without bumping into heaps of tourists, stands, vendors - the relative solitude that Toniná’s underrated status grants it can make anyone feel like Lara Croft or Indiana Jones, exploring long-lost civilizations and hidden treasures.

Visitors can explore at will the eerie Palace of the Underworld, a palatial maze thought to be a liminal space to the Inframundo , illuminated by expertly placed windows that channel the changing daylight to illuminate its long corridors; they can walk along with the Pitz Court, where prisoners played the bloody game of the Gods centuries ago, cross temple ruins and ancient houses, come face to face with surviving depictions of ancient gods and climb all the stories to the very top of the Pyramid overlooking the entire Acropolis and the hills and forests of Chiapas.

The climb can be very, very steep, so appropriate shoes are a necessity!

There are murals and high-relief carvings in stunning condition throughout the pyramid, but most of the statues are replicas; the original statues and plaques are preserved in careful conditions at the Toniná Museum right at the archeological site. Holding the most fragile of the treasures of Toniná and built according to the Mayan cosmogony, the Museum is almost as necessary a stop as the ruins themselves.

Related: Why Honduras' Copán Is The Best Place To Learn Mayan Culture

Reaching Toniná

Toniná is considerably far from any airports, at 13 km away from Ocosingo, 115 km away from Palenque and 80 km from San Cristóbal de las Casas. The way to the site can be made by car, through the jungle, but by far the easiest and smoothest way there is to take the public bus from Ocosingo.

Beyond the ruins and the museum, the site has parking spaces, an auditorium, bathrooms, and a diner that serves traditional Mexican food , where exploring tourists can recover their energy.

• Hours: Monday through Sunday, 8 AM to 5 PM
• Rates: Entry is 70 pesos, including access to the site and the museum.

A tip: Local guides and archeologists give tours, prices vary from 100 to 500 pesos, and it’s very much worth it for the enriching and educational experience they’re able to provide the trip.

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Tour Tonina y Corralito

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Visita a la Zona Arqueológica de Toniná, unos de los sitios históricamente más importantes, y maravillosos donde se pueden observar impresionantes pirámides pertenecientes al Siglo VI de la cultura Maya. Posteriormente, traslado a la cascada “El Corralito”, una hermosa cascada donde podrá disfrutar de la naturaleza que ofrece este lugar.

Fin de servicio aproximadamente a las7:00 pm.

Traslado al hotel a las 9:00 pm aproximadamente.

Recomendaciones

• Ropa cómoda. (Playera, Pantalón, Short y ropa de cambio en caso de querer nadar en corralito).
• Tenis o sandalias.
• Bloqueador.
• Se realiza un para en el trayecto para desayunar. (No incluido).

Tuxtla Gutiérrez o San Cristóbal de las Casas

Hora de salida:

7:00 am, recepción en hotel.

• Recepción en hotel de Tuxtla Gutiérrez O San Cristóbal.
• Transportación turística en servicio grupal o compartido.
• Entradas a todos los sitios turísticos.
• Conductor experimentado.
• Seguro del Viajero.
• Guías en zona arqueológica.
• Servicios no especificados.

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• Lo Mejor de Chiapas
• Lo Mejor + Selva Lacandona
• Lo Mejor + San Cristóbal
• Toniná y Metzabok
• Zonas Arqueológicas
• Lo Mejor de Yucatán
• Edzná y Calakmul

Ek Balam y Lagartos

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Toniná y Metzabok: Zona Arqueológica de Toniná y Lagos de Metzabok y Nahá

Toniná y metzabok..., presupuesto estimado, tipo de tour, servicios incluídos, también visitaremos:, día 1: zona arqueológica de toniná, lagunas de nahá., día 2: nahá - lagunas de metzabok - palenque, día 3: palenque - traslado a villahermosa - fin de servicios.

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Edzna y calakmul.

Toniná: Exploring the Lost Pyramid City

Last Updated on: 10th September 2023, 01:59 pm

Overlooking the Valley of Ocosingo in the state of Chiapas is one of Mesoamerica’s largest and most unique structures. The Toniná Pyramid consists of seven tiers, many of which are home to temples, palaces and monuments. As such, it shouldn’t just be considered a large pyramid, but an entire pyramid city.

The pyramid rises up to 75 m high, making it about as high as Teotihuacán’s Pyramid of the Sun – tying it for the tallest pyramid in Mexico and the third-highest in the world (the Great Pyramid of Giza , for reference, is 147 m high).

Not everyone counts this as a pyramid, however. Many archaeologists refer to it as an ‘Acropolis,’ which is why Toniná is often absent from lists of the world’s highest pyramids. But in my opinion, Toniná does indeed qualify as a pyramid, albeit a very unusual one.

Despite its grandeur, Toniná is unknown to most visitors to Mexico. And getting there can be a bit tricky nowadays, as the area falls within Zapatista territory. Nevertheless, Toniná can still be accessed as a day trip from Palenque, which you can learn more about below .

Toniná: A Brief History

While the general area was populated since at least 300 AD, Toniná hit its peak between 600 and 900. And in ancient times, Toniná was known for being a war-like and ruthless city. 

Based on hieroglyphic inscriptions, we know that Toniná waged war against Palenque in 711, capturing its king, Kan-Hok-Xul II, son of Pakal the Great and younger brother of Kan Balahm. They built the Temple of War at the top of the pyramid in celebration, while a relief depicts the capture.

Toniná continued to thrive in the 9th century as many nearby cities began their decline. An influential king named Zots Choj ruled around this time, and it’s he who commissioned the Mural of the Four Suns (more below).

The last recorded ruler is known as Jaguar Serpent, and his final monument dates to 909. In fact, this is the very last Mayan Long Count date ever discovered!

Evidence suggests that later around the year 1000, Toniná was occupied by a group of outsiders. In addition to attempting to repair parts of the pyramid, they also buried their dead within it. These settlers remained until around the year 1250, after which Toniná remained abandoned for good.

Centuries later, a Spanish priest would document the ruins around the year 1700, while the famous archaeologist duo of John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood would briefly visit in 1840.

Minor excavations would then be carried out throughout the 20th century, but nothing major happened until 1972, when the site was studied and excavated in detail by a team of French archaeologists. 

Considering how massive the Toniná Pyramid is, there’s surely a lot more waiting to be discovered.

Approaching Toniná

After getting dropped off at the ruins in a colectivo from Ocosingo (more below ), you’ll encounter the ticket booth near the site entrance. At the time of writing, Toniná is open daily from 8:00-17:00 and costs $65 MXN to enter.

Just near the entrance is the official site museum, which features numerous artifacts discovered amongst the ruins in addition to details about Toniná’s history. Sadly, like many site museums I encountered throughout Mexico, it was closed.  

Past the museum, walking down a rural path, you’ll get a glimpse of the massive pyramid peaking through the trees in the distance. And before long, you’ll reach the site itself.

The archaeological site just consists of two parts: the Ball Court and the Pyramid. But as we’ll cover shortly, the Toniná Pyramid could be thought of as its own city.

The Ball Court

Toniná’s primary Ball Court was completed in 696 by Baknal Chak – the same ruler who’d later capture Palenque’s king. The sunken court stretches out to 70 m long and features numerous attributes that make it unique.

Instead of the traditional rings one finds at a typical Mesoamerican ball court, the walls here are adorned with sculptures of bound captives. While the ball game’s rules likely varied from city to city, one wonders what unique set of rules they would’ve used in Toniná!

Another interesting feature of this court are its stone markers. While they would’ve played a role in the actual game, archaeologists have discovered hollow spaces beneath some of them. 

It’s possible, therefore, that they may have been symbolic portals to the underworld.

In any case, these are some of the most detailed and well-preserved stone markers you’ll find at any Mayan site in Mexico. And over to the back, you’ll also find a freestanding sculpture. But who it’s meant to depict is not entirely clear.

On that note, informational signage at Toniná is almost entirely lacking. Local guides are available for hire near the Ball Court, but hopefully this guide will come in handy during your visit as well.

On the topic of the ball game, a unique carving can be seen on display at Mexico City’s National Museum of Anthropology . Carved in the year 727, the scene depicts a king of Toniná playing the game against the reigning king of Calakmul .

The strange part is that the Toniná king depicted in the relief, K’inich Baaknal Chahk, had already been dead for a couple of decades when the relief was carved! 

Back up at ground level, the nearby altar is where archaeologists found a relief of a ball player being decapitated. While one would naturally assume this to be the fate of the loser, some scholars believe that the Mayans actually decapitated the winners – a ritual act that would lead them straight to union with the gods.

The south end of the plaza is also home to a ruined temple, now largely overgrown. Compared to the main pyramid, it appears tiny and insignificant.

Just in front of the pyramid, meanwhile, lies yet another ball court, though much smaller in size and depth.

Ascending the Toniná Pyramid

There’s no other structure quite like the Toniná Pyramid in all of Mexico. Built over the course of centuries, its design appears rather haphazard and chaotic.

But upon closer examination, there’s plenty of reason to believe that its final form was planned from the very beginning.

As mentioned, the pyramid consists of seven tiers. And a central staircase leads from the bottom right up to the Temple of the Smoking Mirrors, Toniná’s highest point.

Fascinatingly, this staircase consists of 260 steps – the same number of days as the Mayan Tzolkin calendar. And the total number of temples adds up to 13. Not only does 13 appear frequently in the Mayan calendar system, but it also represents the layers of heaven in Mayan cosmology.

What’s more, is that if we add thirteen to seven, we get 20, the number of days in a Mayan month. Surely, there are more numerical synchronicities involving the Toniná pyramid that have yet to be uncovered.

Due to reconstruction efforts taking place at the top during my visit, only Tiers 1 through 5 were accessible. Hopefully, the work will finish soon and you can make it all the way to the top during your visit.

Beginning your ascent, you’ll arrive at Tier 1, where you’ll find the Temple of the Underworld over to the right (most of the pyramid’s temples and palaces are situated to the right).

The temple consists of a series of three vaulted doors, but the area was off-limits at the time of my visit. Dating back to around the year 500, it’s one of the pyramid city’s oldest temples.

Archaeologists have discovered numerous sculptures around Tier 2, among them Toniná’s – and the Mayan world’s – last-dated inscription.

Over to the right is the Palace of Agriculture, home to a six-columned room and a large stucco monster mask that’s two meters high. 

Tier 3 is one of Tonina’s most interesting. A palace lies here to the east (right), where you’ll find a staircase leading up to a small platform.

And on the platform is a throne comprised of stone and stucco, the legs of which once resembled those of a jaguar. A stucco relief behind it may have also represented Venus.

A path takes visitors through a vaulted tunnel up to an intermediary platform between Tiers 3 and 4. Yet another stucco piece can be found up here, this one depicting the Feathered Serpent. Stucco monster masks can also be found nearby. 

Additionally, on the northeast of the same patio, is a large monster mask accompanied by glyphs.

Aside from admiring the stucco decorations, you can also enjoy making your way through the labyrinthine palace.

Back at the central staircase, you’ll encounter a stela which you’ve already been able to see from the bottom. It depicts a 6th-century ruler known as Jaguar Bird Peccary. 

The one here now is a replica, however, with the original on display at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. It reveals what a refined taste in art Toniná possessed despite being such a war-like city.

Reaching Tier 4, you’ll find yet another residential complex over to the right. And under a protective roof is another stucco decoration which depicts various figures wearing elaborate ritual garb.

The highlight of Tier 5 is the Mural of the Four Suns, commissioned by the influential king Zots Choj. It depicts a scene from the Popol Vuh, the text which includes the Mayan creation myth, among other tales.

The mural features a giant X with a human head emerging from a sun disk in the center. And to the left we see the god of death in the form of a skeleton, holding the head of a captive from a city called Pia, not fat from Palenque.

Unfortunately, a fence now obstructs much of the view, but you can climb up the platform in front for a better perspective.

You’ll find numerous platforms and altars on Tier 5, many of which are climbable. They offer excellent views of the lower tiers as well as Tiers 6 and 7 above.

As mentioned above, most of the Toniná Pyramid’s structures are on its east, or right-hand side. But from Tier 5, one can find what appears to be a residential palace to the west.

And you’ll also find a staircase taking you down to a level that exists between Tiers 4 and 5. This space is home to the Temple of the Water which is adorned with a stucco god mask and unique geometric patterns. You’ll also find an intricately carved stela.

The Upper Tiers

As mentioned, Tier 5 was as far as I could go due to renovations taking place at the highest temples. I could, at least, climb some of Tier 5’s platforms for clear views of the top.

Admittedly, it wasn’t entirely clear where Tier 6 ends and Tier 7 begins. The top levels of the Toniná Pyramid are home to a myriad of additional pyramids and temples, making this a very difficult piece of architecture to wrap one’s head around. 

One of the structures at the top is known as the Temple of War, topped with a roof comb similar to Palenque’s Temple of the Sun. As mentioned above, it was built in celebration of capturing that city’s king in the 8th century.

To its rear is the Temple of Commerce, next to which is the Temple of the Smoking Mirror, Toniná’s highest point. It was completed in the 9th century during the reign of Zots Choj, and it surely offers tremendous views of the valley below.

From my distant vantage point, I could also make out additional carved stelae and stucco decorations which I hope to get a closer view of during a future visit.

Coming back down, I took in the views of rural Chiapas while stopping to admire some of my favorite structures once again. Having been to dozens of archaeological sites across Mexico, there’s nothing else like this pyramid city in the rest of the country, and probably not in the world.

Aside from a small tour group and a local family, I largely had the pyramid to myself throughout my visit. With the huge number of tourists visiting Palenque, it’s a wonder more don’t know about what may very well be Mexico’s tallest pyramid.

Additional Info

Toniná is located a few kilometers east of Ocosingo, a city that lies in between Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas . While normally reachable as a day trip from either, it may not a good idea to visit from San Cristóbal if you’re taking public transportation, for reasons we’ll get into shortly.

The only bookable tour online, however, does depart from San Cristóbal, though the driver would surely be up-to-date on the current situation.

Getting to Toniná from Palenque:

Getting to Ocosingo from Palenque is pretty straightforward. You will find a couple of different colectivo stations on Benito Juarez street a few minutes east of the main ADO station.

These minivans don’t run on a set schedule and only depart when full. In my case, I only had to wait about 15 minutes for the bus to depart, as this seems to be a popular route. The ride to Ocosingo costs $100 MXN at the time of writing.

Not sure what the day would bring, I decided to head to the station around 7:00 in the morning, and I was later very glad that I did.

While Google Maps lists the journey as being around 2 hours and 45 minutes, it ended up taking around four hours! This was largely due to construction taking place all along the road. But at least there were no blockades.

This is an interesting ride, because in addition to the beautiful scenery, the journey will take you through Zapatista territory, or areas taken by the Zapatista Army of National Liberation, a socialist rebel group. While the violence is now largely over, they initiated their fight against the Mexican government back in 1994. But the topic is too complicated to get into here.

Along the way, you’ll spot numerous Zapatista logos in addition to images of Che Guevara, which is a bit ironic.

Once in Ocosingo, you can then catch another colectivo for Toniná. It’s on the opposite side of town, however, and it will take you about twenty minutes to walk there (or you can hail a cab).

It would be wise to download the Maps.me app in advance, as they clearly have ‘Bus to Tonina’ marked on the app. The colectivos depart from the city’s main market.

Arriving in the market area, I immediately found a minivan with ‘Toniná’ marked on it that was just about to depart. Toniná is also the name of a village, but if you tell the driver you want to visit the ruins, he should take you up to the entrance. The ride lasts about 20 minutes.

When you’re finished with the ruins, walk about ten minutes away from the site until you reach the highway. From there, you’ll find frequent colectivos headed back to Ocosingo. The local people here are very friendly, and they would switch between talking amongst themselves in Mayan and asking me questions about my travels in Spanish.

Back in Ocosingo, simply repeat the process mentioned above in reverse. This is a long and tiring day trip which is why it’s best to depart from Palenque as early as possible.

Getting to Toniná from San Cristóbal de las Casas:

Getting to Toniná from San Cristóbal de las Casas is largely the same as the process from Palenque described above. Near San Cristóbal’s bus station, you’ll see many colectivos headed for Ocosingo.

But why is it better to do this day trip from Palenque? It’s because there’s a lot of civil unrest in the villages between San Cristóbal and Ocosingo, and many have complained of being extorted for money multiple times by people with machetes who set up roadblocks.

Apparently, many of these groups see themselves as freedom fighters for socialism, and may even hand drivers political propaganda after receiving their ‘donation.’

Extortion aside, straight-up robberies are not unheard of, either. It got so bad that companies like ADO or OCC will no longer take this road after too many of their buses were robbed at gunpoint at night. They now opt for the much longer route via Villahermosa, Tabasco.

Another potential setback is certain sections of the road being blocked entirely. If that happens, your driver may be forced to take an alternate road that will surely make the journey much longer.

With all that being said, I’ve met a number of people who’ve traveled on this road – both via private vehicle and colectivo – with no incidents. So, as long as you keep yourself up to date on the situation, you may be fine visiting Toniná from San Cristóbal. But I’d still recommend visiting from Palenque instead for peace of mind.

The city of Palenque is best thought of as a base from which to see ruins and waterfalls and not as a destination in its own right. As such, it would be wise to stay somewhere in the western part of the city near the main bus station instead of nearby the central park.

When visiting Palenque (the archaeological site), the colectivos taking you there can be found in this general area on Allende street, in between Miguel Hidalgo and Benito Juárez streets. You can also hail one from the main road near the bus station.

Also in this area, one can find the small colectivo stations with buses for Ocosingo, the nearest town to the pyramid city of Toniná.

And right near the main ADO Bus Station are tour offices through which you can arrange tours to Yaxchilan/Bonampak and the Cascadas de Agua Azul.

I stayed at a hotel called  Posada Nacha`n – Ka`an  which was located near all the locations just mentioned. I stayed three nights and paid around $315 MXN per night for a private room with a private bathroom.

The main downside was that the internet barely worked, but as I was out on day trips for most of my stay, it wasn’t a big deal.

The hotel has a luggage storage room and you can find staff on hand from early in the morning. This allowed me to leave my things as soon as I arrived on the morning bus from Bacalar , making it possible to immediately head to the Palenque ruins.

Even if you don’t stay at Posada Nacha`n – Ka`an, I recommend the general area, especially if you plan on visiting Toniná independently. Other highly-rated options include  Hotel Chablis Palenque  and  Casa Céntrica en Palenque .

Staying right by the ruins would be another good choice.

If  renting a car  is not an option, the city of Palenque is well connected by bus. If you’re coming from the east or north, you’ll find direct buses from places like  Villahermosa , Bacalar,  Campeche  and even  Mérida . I came on a night bus from Bacalar and everything went smoothly.

Unfortunately, things get complicated when coming from other parts of Chiapas further west. While the nearest major tourist hub in Chiapas is San Cristóbal de las Casas, due to the occasional blockades and robberies mentioned above, coach buses now take a much longer, indirect route which lasts around 11 hours.

It is possible, however, to take local colectivos between the two cities, which will likely involve a transfer at Ocosingo. I’ve met travelers who’ve done this without any problems.

In any case, Villahermosa, Tabasco, is well worth a couple-day stop in between Palenque and San Cristóbal. Its Parque Museo La Venta hosts some of the finest artifacts of the Olmec civilization, while nearby the city is the overlooked site of  Comalcalco , the western-most Mayan ruin.

Mexico Archeology

The Best of Mexico's Ancient Sites

Toniná Chiapas Mexico

Tzeltal Mayan “House of Stone”

Ancient Mayan name “Po” or “PoPo”

LOCATION & DESCRIPTION

Geographic Location

Located in the highlands of the State of Chiapas in the Ocosingo Valley, Tonina is just off the highway that leads from San Christobal de las Casas down to Palenque. It is 13 KMs (8.1 miles) from the town of Ocosingo. It is 800 to 900 meters above sea level.

Toniná sits on a limestone ridge next to Río Jataté,

MAJOR GROUPINGS & STRUCTURE DESCRIPTIONS

Open Daily from 8 am to 5 pm.

Admission 2013 48 pesos. Free on Sundays for nationals and Mexican residents.

Allow at least 3 to 4  hours, especially if you like to climb. More if you like to take pictures.

RECOMMENDATIONS

You can stroll safely undisturbed throughout the site – often you will be one of the few there. Take good shoes as there is plenty of climbing- and a fair amount memory and batteries for your photographs.

Take water and insect repellant. Dress according to the season you are visiting.

GETTING THERE

GPS – N16.54.439 W92.0.348

Take a bus to Ococsingo and take a taxi to the site. A taxi should cost no more than $100 pesos.

Tours and tour buses

Bus tours originating from either Palenque of San Christobal will someimes combine a tour to include Tonina.

Drive from Palenque:

SAFETY CAUTION: At times there are “Road Blocks” along Highway 199 where locals set up a temporary barrier and try to collect money. Those that have not “donated” have sometimes had their vehicle keyed or damaged. On one occasion a couple was physically assaulted. We suggest you ask locally before you leave your destination about the current situation and if you do get stopped to pay the toll or fine and drive though.

From the statue at the crossroads to the Palenque ruins, take Highway 199 and drive from Palenque to Ocosingo. Then turn left and drive 12 miles down an asphalt road to the site. It is well signed. Approximately 140 KMs; Approximately 3 to 4 hours of slow winding roads.

Drive from San Cristóbal de Las Casas:

Drive South on Highway 190  for approximately 11 KMs and then turn left on Highway 199 and drive from San Cristóbal to Ocosingo. Then turn right and drive 12 miles down an asphalt road to the site. It is well signed. Approximately 110 KMs and 2 to 21/2 hours of slow winding roads.

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Toniná Zona Arqueológica

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This pre-Hispanic site means “Big House of Stone” in Tzeltal. It is a sacred space made up of an artificial mountain of seven platforms, risen on a calcareous hill that dominate a long and extensive valley. Toniná was at its peak between the end of the 6th century and beginning of 10AC. It was a potent military power as recorded in the abundant representations of prisoners in stucco and stone. Its most important ruler was Tzotz Choj, “Bat-Tiger”. It is in Toniná, that the last of Mayan inscriptions from the Classical period is recorded in 909.

The access to the site is through the ball court of the prisoners, one of the largest in its time and located on a great platform, where the Sacrifice Altar stands over. It then opens out to the ball court of the Katuns where there are several sculpture displays. The third platform reveals the palace of the underworld while the Palace of the Friezes and War, whose façade is made of four spiraled and tiered friezes, can be found on the fourth platform.

On the side of the sixth platform, a mural of four suns can be found, a kind of codex made in stucco representing the myth of the four ages of cosmogony through which the Earth travels. In it, the suns of every cycle are represented as falling human heads.

The representation of the sun of the dead, which in its hands hold a decapitated head, is outstanding. On the sixth platform, the temple of the monster of the earth can also be found; represented in stucco, a monster devours a stone sphere. This temple is aligned with the winter and spring solstices. Finally, on the seventh platform sit the temples of the prisoners and the smoking mirror, the highlight of the highest point of this group, and the highest in Mesoamerica.

Toniná also comes with a splendid site museum, located in the middle of a rectangular esplanade, and built in reference to the myth of the creation of the universe as conceived by the people of the ancient past.

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Toniná: Home to the Biggest Maya Pyramid

Tonina, known as House of Stone in Tzeltel Maya, is a modest site with a vast structure. This is known as the less-visited Mayan heritage.

Mundo Maya Travel

• Updated: December 5, 2023

Toniná, also known as House of Stone in Tzeltel Maya, is a modest site with a vast structure. This is known as the less-visited Mayan heritage. The site is located in the eastern part of the Mexican state of Chiapas , near the border with Guatemala. It is thought to have been occupied from the Late Classic period through to the Terminal Classic period. The site consists of a series of stone buildings, many of which are decorated with carved reliefs. These reliefs depict Maya gods and scenes from Maya mythology. Toniná was rediscovered in the late 19th century by explorer and archaeologist Augustus Le Plongeon.

One of the Biggest Maya Pyramids can be Found at Toniná

The Most Underrated Ancient Site to Visit in Mexico

Toniná is an underrated location in Mexico which has some of the most stunning Mayan ruins in the country. While it may not be as well-known as some of the other ruin sites, such as Chichen Itza (globally voted as one of the new seven wonders of the world ) or Tulum Ruins , Toniná is definitely worth a visit. The site is located in Chiapas, near the border with Guatemala, and is home to a number of impressive structures, including a pyramidal temple and a palace complex. Visitors can also see a number of carved stelae and hieroglyphic panels, which provide insight into the history and culture of the ancient Maya.

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