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Brunei Darussalam

The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. Nevertheless this quiet darussalam (Arabic for 'abode of peace') has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they're due to run dry in 30 years).

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Bandar Seri Begawan

Built in 1992 to celebrate the 25th year of the current sultan's reign, Brunei's largest mosque dominates its surroundings. It's impossible to miss the…

Royal Regalia Museum

When called upon to present a gift to the sultan of Brunei, you must inevitably confront the question: what do you give a man who has everything? At this…

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei (the late father of the current sultan), Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien is surrounded by an artificial lagoon that…

Malay Technology Museum

This absorbing museum focuses on the traditional lifestyle and artisanship of Brunei's ethnic groups, using re-creations of tribal villages from across…

Kampong Ayer

Home to around 30,000 people, Kampong Ayer consists of 42 contiguous stilt villages built along both banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River). A century…

Istana Nurul Iman

The sultan's official residence, the world's largest residential palace, is more than four times the size of the Palace of Versailles. It has 1788 rooms,…

Brunei Museum

Brunei's interesting national museum has an Islamic art gallery, exhibits depicting Brunei's role in Southeast Asian history from the arrival of the…

Labi Longhouses

Labi is a small Iban settlement about 40km south of the coastal road with four longhouses: Rampayoh, Mendaram Besar, Mendaram Kecil and, at the end of the…

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Sustainable Travel

Jun 19, 2018 • 2 min read

It may be best known around the world for the fabulous wealth of its head of state, the Sultan of Brunei. But the tiny country of Brunei Darussalam, which…

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• 3 Other destinations
• 4.1 History
• 4.2 Economy
• 4.3 Culture
• 4.4 Geography and climate
• 4.5 Tourist information
• 6.1 Entry requirements
• 6.2 By plane
• 6.5 By boat
• 7.2 By taxi
• 7.3 By ride-hailing
• 7.4 By tour vans
• 7.5 By boat
• 7.7 By thumb
• 9.1 Scuba diving
• 10.3 Souvenirs
• 14 Stay safe
• 15 Stay healthy
• 17.1 By phone

The Sultanate of Brunei is a small but — thanks to natural gas and petroleum resources — very rich country on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia .

Although Brunei is not on most travellers' radar, it is a country of tranquil mosques, pristine jungles, and friendly inhabitants. Its full name is Negara Brunei Darussalam , with Darussalam appropriately meaning "Abode of Peace".

Regions [ edit ]

Cities [ edit ]

• 4.892 114.939 1 Bandar Seri Begawan – the capital, sometimes known as "Bandar" or "BSB" for short
• 4.708333 115.073611 2 Bangar – gateway town to the unspoilt nature of Temburong
• 4.583333 114.183333 3 Kuala Belait – second largest city and border town on the way to Sarawak , Malaysia
• 5.0268 115.0693 4 Muara — a small port town
• 4.806667 114.659167 6 Tutong – a small town, located on the banks of Tutong River

Other destinations [ edit ]

• 4.478 115.2077 1 Ulu Temburong National Park – the first and the only national park established in Brunei, contains unspoilt jungle and is known as the "Green Jewel of Brunei"

Understand [ edit ]

Brunei is a pint-sized oil-rich sultanate with a population of 450,000 as of 2016, strategically positioned on the South China Sea, close to vital sea lanes linking the Indian and Pacific Oceans. Its oil resources have generated great wealth for the Sultan and some of the local people, and the best evidence of this is seen in the palaces and mosques. However many Bruneians, including those who live in the water village (Kampong Ayer), still have relatively simple, albeit comfortable livelihoods.

The description of an "oil-rich sultanate" might conjure the images of Dubai or Qatar , but travellers with such expectations will likely be disappointed. Brunei does not have much in terms of grandiose man-made attractions, and although excellent diving and jungle trekking are available, it does not have mind-blowing natural parks as the neighbouring Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak do. Many people that visit Brunei actually do so only for the sake of "country collection" or "passport stamp collection".

If there are attractions particular to Brunei, it is perhaps the absence of crowds, the comfortable but relaxed atmosphere, and the way that society remains religious and conservative, refusing to embrace modernity and globalisation despite having the material wealth to do so.

History [ edit ]

The Sultanate of Brunei's heyday occurred between the 15th-17th centuries, when its control extended over coastal areas of northwest Borneo and the southern Philippines . Brunei subsequently entered a period of decline brought on by internal strife over royal succession, colonial expansion of European powers, and piracy. In 1888, Brunei became a British protectorate. It was offered the opportunity to join Malaysia as a state in 1963, but opted out of the federation due to a disagreement on the amount of its oil income that would have to be given to the central government in Kuala Lumpur. After an Indonesian-backed insurrection failed in 1962, the Sultan consolidated power as an absolute monarch, and the country is under a constant state of emergency renewed every 2 years. Independence was achieved in 1984. One family has ruled Brunei for over six centuries.

After independence, the Brunei Investment Agency invested some US$40 billion of Brunei's funds in Crown Prince and Finance Minister Jefri Bolkiah's Amedeo fund. When the Asian financial crisis hit in 1998, it turned out that Jefri had appropriated some $14.8 billion of the sum for himself, using the funds to amass 2,000 cars, a private Boeing 747 jumbo jet, a yacht named Tits and life-size golden statues of himself having sex. Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah sent Jefri to the naughty corner and has personally overseen the sultanate's finances ever since.

The Istana Nurul Iman is the world's largest occupied residential palace. The 300-acre palace sits on a man-made hill with a clear view of Kampong Ayer. Istana Nurul Iman is the residence of the Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, and the palace is quoted to have an estimated value at USD 600 million.

Economy [ edit ]

The backbone of Brunei's economy is oil and gas and the Sultan of Brunei is, famously, one of the richest people in the world with an estimated personal wealth of around USD 40 billion. Per capita GDP is far above most other developing countries, and substantial income from overseas investment supplements income from domestic production. The government provides all citizens with a comprehensive welfare state without levying any income tax.

All sectors of the economy are fairly heavily regulated and government policy is an odd mixture of subsidies, protectionism and encouragement of entrepreneurship. Brunei's leaders are attempting to balance the country's steadily increasing integration into the world economy with internal social cohesion. It became a more prominent player in the world by serving as chairman for the 2005 APEC (Asian Pacific Economic Cooperation) Forum. Plans for the future include upgrading the workforce, reducing unemployment, strengthening the banking and tourist sectors, and, in general, widening the economic base beyond oil and gas.

Culture [ edit ]

Given their shared history, Brunei shares many cultural similarities with neighbouring Malaysia, with the Malay language serving as a common link between both countries.

Brunei is officially an Islamic state, with many large beautiful mosques across the country. Sale of alcohol is banned. Bringing in meat (other than seafood) that has not been certified "halal" (slaughtered according to Islamic law) is also banned. It is possible, however, to find pork at eateries catering to the ethnic Chinese community. During the fasting month of Ramadan, many non-Muslim-owned shops and restaurants will be open. However, eating, drinking or smoking in front of people who are fasting is considered rude and asking permission is appropriate. Expect everything to be closed - including hotel restaurants, and all shops - during Friday prayers (12:00-14:00) [1] all year. Things start closing around 11:00, and start reopening again around 14:00. Even the buses stop running, though you might still be able to catch a water taxi.

The bulk of the population is Malay (67%) and there is also a significant Chinese minority of around 15% as well as a number of indigenous peoples, including the Iban and Dusun tribes who inhabit the jungle upriver and the Temburong district (the smaller eastern part detached from the rest of Brunei). There are many foreign workers who work on the oil and gas production or in lower positions such as restaurant staff, field workers and domestic staff. The male to female ratio is 3:2. More than a quarter of the people are short term immigrant workers, most of whom are men.

Geography and climate [ edit ]

Brunei's climate is sub-tropical. Temperatures range from 14-33°C, January being the hottest month. The rainy season is always mild and humid, followed by a hot and humid dry season. The difference between the two seasons is not that marked, however. The rainforest and jungle areas tend to be cooler and wetter than the coastal region.

Brunei's topology is of a flat coastal plain rises to mountains in the east, the highest point being Bukit Pagan at 1,850 metres, with some hilly lowlands in the west.

There are no typhoons, earthquakes, severe flooding or other forms of natural disasters to contend with, and the biggest environmental issue is the seasonal haze resulting from forest fires (that is caused by illegal clearing of land) in nearby Indonesia.

Tourist information [ edit ]

• Brunei Tourism website

Talk [ edit ]

The official language of Brunei is Malay ( Bahasa Melayu ), but due to its British colonial past, English is widely spoken and understood in urban areas, though sometimes with a thick accent. A little Malay will come in handy in rural areas, as English proficiency is limited there.

While all Bruneians are able to speak standard Malay, the local dialect of Malay has some ideosyncrasies that can make it tricky to understand if you only just started learning Malay. Brunei also officially uses the Arabic script for Malay known as Jawi . Outside of government signage and religious publications almost all signs use the Roman alphabet.

The ethnic Chinese community in Brunei continues to speak a variety of Chinese languages, including Hokkien , Teochew , and several others. Mandarin is taught in Chinese schools, so most ethnic Chinese are conversant in it as well.

Tourist sites always have signage in English, and often in Chinese as well due to the large numbers of Chinese tourists.

Get in [ edit ]

Compared to other nations in South East Asia , Brunei's visa policy is a bit more restrictive.

Entry requirements [ edit ]

All foreign nationals must fill out an online arrival form prior to their arrival in Brunei.

Foreign nationals of the following countries/territories can enter Brunei visa-free as long as they present a passport valid for at least 6 months:

For up to 90 days: All European Union member states, British citizens and subjects with right of abode in the United Kingdom , Iceland , Liechtenstein , Norway , Switzerland , United States

For up to 30 days: Malaysia , New Zealand , Oman , San Marino , Singapore , South Korea , Ukraine and the United Arab Emirates

For up to 14 days: Cambodia , Canada , Japan , Hong Kong , Indonesia , Laos , Macau , Maldives , Myanmar , Peru , Russia , Philippines , Thailand and Vietnam

Nationals of Israel are not allowed to enter Brunei, though other passports containing Israeli stamps and visas are not a problem for entry.

Citizens of Australia and Bahrain can obtain a visa on arrival (single or multiple entry) for 30 days. Citizens of Saudi Arabia and Kuwait can get a single-entry, 30-day visa on arrival. Citizens of China , Qatar and Taiwan can obtain a visa on arrival for 14 days. These citizens can obtain a visa on arrival for $20 or a 3-day transit visa for $5. Immigration officers at Sungai Tujoh Checkpoint between Miri and Kuala Belait will not accept payment for a visa on arrival other than in Brunei or Singapore dollars — there is no ATM and cheques are not accepted. At Brunei airport payment must also be made in cash. There is a money changer (with reasonable rates), but no ATM prior to immigration. If you need a visa-on-arrival, make sure you join the right queue at entry. Joining the foreign passport queue will see you sent to the back of the line. Large tour groups requiring visas on arrival can jam up the system. You may have to be quick, persistent or patient.

Proof of return or onward travel is officially required to check in for your flight to Brunei. If you plan to leave by ferry you will need to purchase a cheap flight out of Brunei before you arrive there. Alternatively, you can book an expensive (but fully refundable) flight, and cancel it afterwards.

From Kuala Lumpur , Air Asia is not enforcing this rule; hence you probably won't need such a proof of return if you fly from KL.

Those who need a visa must apply in advance at a Brunei embassy, where processing can take up to 3 days and costs $20 for a single entry visa. See Brunei Immigration Department for the latest details.

By plane [ edit ]

Getting there/away: A taxi to Bandar Seri Begawan downtown takes 20 minutes and costs around $25. A covered walk down to the end of the car park further away from the Terminal (turn right from Arrivals) leads to a bus stop for Purple buses to the city centre ($1) that only run during the day.

If flights to Brunei are full or expensive, an alternative is flying to nearby Miri in Malaysia and taking the bus to Brunei instead (3 hours).

By car [ edit ]

You can drive into Brunei from Sarawak , Malaysia . There are two entry points for the main part of Brunei, one from Miri at Sungai Tujuh and one from Limbang at Kuala Lurah (Tedungan on the Malaysian side). Both these crossings have drive-through immigration checkpoints at the border but queues can be horribly long, especially during weekends.

It is also possible to drive from the Sarawak towns of Limbang and Lawas to the Temburong district of Brunei. A bridge across the Pandaruan River was opened in December 2013 and the ferry service has been discontinued. Immigration is conducted at Pandaruan (Malaysia side) and at Puni (Brunei side). From Lawas (which is connected by road to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah , Malaysia), another bridge completes the connection between the banks of the Trusan River (and no ferry ride is required anymore). Malaysian immigration formalities are done in Trusan (the Mengkalap immigration checkpoint is in a shoplot just east of the ferry crossing) about 8 km away, and no longer in Lawas. Those for Brunei can be done at the Labu checkpoint at the border.

It is possible to drive from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah to Bandar Seri Begawan in one day. See the Kota Kinabalu to Brunei by land page for details.

Only some petrol stations in the country are permitted to sell petrol to cars with non-Brunei plates due to a tax issue. It can be frustrating to find these stations and so ensure your car is topped up.

The toll-free Friendship Bridge connects the two borders at the eastern side of Limbang.

By bus [ edit ]

• From Miri: As of 2022, there is no direct service between Miri and Bandar Seri Begawan . PHLS Express used to operate a service between Miri and Bandar Seri Begawan twice a day. It is possible to book a cab with ride hailing app Dart.
• From Limbang: There are no direct buses between Bandar Seri Begawan and Limbang in Sarawak. However, you can catch a local bus from Bandar's bus station to Kuala Lurah on the border, walk across the checkpoint into Tedungan in Sarawak and catch a Syarikat Bas Limbang bus to Limbang. Do the reverse if coming from Limbang to Bandar. Buses depart from Limbang bus terminal several times a day and bear the destination "Batu Danau". Taxis are also available on both sides of the border but bargain hard for the fare. You can also get to Temburong district by bus from Limbang, although again, there are no direct buses into Bangar ; all buses (destination "Pandaruan") stop at the ferry landing at Pandaruan, where there is now a Malaysian immigration checkpoint. Cross the river by ferry and catch a taxi for the 5 km to Bangar.
• From Kota Kinabalu: buses run once a day between BSB and Kota Kinabalu , Malaysia .

By boat [ edit ]

The main ferry terminal in Brunei is the Serasa Ferry Terminal at Muara, some 25 km from Bandar Seri Begawan . See Bandar Seri Begawan#By boat for details about the terminal.

Labuan Ferry operates services from Labuan , taking around 2 hours. As of April 2023, two ferries are operating on most days, one at 8:30am and another at 1.00pm or 4:30pm, with schedules changing on short notice. With a change of boats in Labuan , you can even make it to/from Kota Kinabalu , Sabah , in a day. See the Kota Kinabalu to Brunei by land page.

Get around [ edit ]

Use caution when asking locals for transportation information. People here are friendly and very helpful, but when asking about transportation, you'll get three different answers from three different people, even people whose job it is to help tourists.

There is one "motorway", from Bandar Seri Begawan (the capital) along the coast. It is almost all dual carriageway from Muara to Kuala Belait and the toll bridge to Malaysia / Sarawak in the west.

There is also a side road off this, which runs into the jungle towards the settlement of Labi and beyond. Excellent scenery, and a 4-wheel drive may be useful, but the road is now sealed up to the longhouses some distance beyond Labi. Stock up on water at the convenient shop at the junction.

Driving between Temburong and the rest of Brunei used to require passing through Malaysian territory, and clearing Malaysian customs and immigration, but since the completion of the Sultan Haji Omar 'Ali Saifuddien Bridge in 2020, that is no longer necessary.

By taxi [ edit ]

There are not many taxis in Brunei, because car ownership and usage are high. There are always some at the airport and some in the Belait District, but little chance of finding a free taxi along the road, especially during morning and afternoon peak hours when they are hired by businessmen. Needing a taxi might require a phone call. The main taxi stand is direct north of the bus station in the capital with only a few taxis waiting.

None of the taxis has a taxi meter since there is no taxi company nor regulation requiring to have one. Drivers have fixed prices for most trips, although the tariffs may vary between different drivers, or they will give a price for an irregular trip.

By ride-hailing [ edit ]

The main ride-hailing app in Brunei is Dart . Well-known ride-hailing apps found elsewhere in Southeast Asia, such as Grab and Gojek, do not operate in Brunei.

By tour vans [ edit ]

Another alternative is hiring a tour van to drive you around Brunei, for example, for a whole day, or several hours. Try asking them from the ferry counters in Muara. Discuss the price first before agreeing to board the van.

Around the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan , there is a good-sized network of minibuses. Brunei's high rate of private car ownership means very few Bruneians take these buses, which largely cater to foreign workers. The speed of the buses is limited to 50 km/h but are quite efficient and reliable.

In general, the bus system around the capital radiates from the bus terminal in the central district. There are designated bus stops along each route but passengers are picked up or let off at unofficial locations at the discretion of the driver. The unofficial mode of operation makes easy travel and entices patronage. There are maps of the bus routes at the terminal. Routes are numbered and the buses are different colors depending on the route. The fare is $1 which is normally collected by a conductor but may also be collected by the driver. The passenger can advise the driver the location to disembark. The buses run every 20–40 minutes from about 06:00 to 18:00. Sometimes, the conductor asks the passengers their respective locations to disembark and skips part of the route, to the dismay of passengers who wish to catch the bus. The buses run roughly every 20–40 minutes from 06:00 to 18:00, but there's no strict schedule. It is quite normal to wait 30 to 45 minutes for a bus.

There is also an infrequent long-distance bus which runs between BSB and Seria through Tutong.

By thumb [ edit ]

Hitchhiking is doable in Brunei – drivers are very willing to stop.

See [ edit ]

• Ulu Temburong National Park in Temburong
• The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan
• Bandar Seri Begawan has a couple of museums dedicated to the history of Brunei and that of the monarchy.

Do [ edit ]

For things to do in and in the near vicinity of Bandar Seri Begawan, see Bandar Seri Begawan .

There are many eco-tours which typically go to the Temburong district by boat then to a native "longhouse". It is then followed by a powered boat (by the natives) up the river to the Belalong reserve in the Borneo rainforest. There is a canopy walk and research centre at the park headquarters.

Jerudong Park was once a decent theme park with a multitude of rides. Sadly, a downward cycle of neglect, declining admission and unaffordable maintenance costs led to the closure and sale of most of the big-ticket rides, including the three roller coasters. This has given the park a sad "circus left town last week" air about it. Most people who visit only go at night to avoid the heat during the day. Outside the park, but very close, is a small complex of restaurants which is open at night, though only a few of the stalls are still operational. The local papers have reported plans to renovate the park with a new selection of attractions.

Scuba diving [ edit ]

Brunei offers some great diving. In addition to coral and fish, Brunei is home to several shipwrecks and many species of nudibranch (often spectacularly colourful molluscs)- one of the best places in SE Asia for macro photography. Water temperature is generally around 30 °C and visibility is usually around 10-30 metres, although this can be changeable during the monsoon season. As diving here is not overly developed, it means that the sites, and especially the coral reefs, are unspoiled and in pristine condition.

Popular dive sites include the American Wreck , Admirable Class Minesweeper, USS Salute (AM-294) lies broken in half on a sand bottom at 30m after hitting a Japanese mine on 8 June 1945, during pre-invasion sweeps of the Brunei Bay, with the loss of nine lives. Australian Wreck , In 1949 while on a voyage to Manila it struck a mine off Brunei and sank. The wreck lies in 33 m of water and is roughly 85 m. Dolphin 88 Wreck Malaysian commercial vessel sunk in bad weather in 2013. Experienced divers will enjoy exploring the interior of the wreck. Oil Rig Wreck , a decommissioned oil rig. There are 9 structures to be explored, each seeming to be home to one dominant group of fish. Baiei Maru Wreck was a Japanese oil tanker that sank in October 1944 in Brunei Bay after hitting a Japanese mine. Discovered by the Brunei Shell Petroleum during a survey, the wreck sits in about 50 m of water. Other dive sites includes Labuan Wreck , Bolkiah Wreck , UBD Wreck , Amai Wreck , Arun Wreck , Stone Wreck to name a few.

Diving is very reasonable, averaging out to $35-45 per dive depending on how many dives you do and whether you bring your own gear. There are a number of organisations you can do trips with such as; Poni Divers , Oceanic Quest [dead link] , The Brunei Sub Aqua Dive Club [dead link] in Brunei-Muara & Panaga Divers [dead link] based in Seria.

Buy [ edit ]

Money [ edit ].

The local currency is the Brunei dollar , denoted by the symbol " $ " or " B$ " (ISO code: BND ). You might hear ringgit used to refer to the dollar but be sure that the speaker is not talking about the Malaysian Ringgit (MYR) which is valued at less than a third of a Brunei dollar. All prices in this guide are in Brunei dollars unless otherwise noted.

The Brunei dollar is tied to the Singapore dollar at a 1:1 rate. By law the currencies can be used interchangeably, so if you're coming in from Singapore, there's no reason to change money as your cash will be readily accepted. (Likewise, any leftover Brunei dollars can be used at par in Singapore.) However, many stores refuse Singapore notes with seemingly microscopic tears in them, and notices to this effect are posted at the cash register. Malaysian ringgit (RM) will also be accepted in a pinch, but the exchange rate may not be in your favour. The ringgit is not available at Brunei banks but can be obtained from money changers.

The Brunei dollar is divided into 100 cents. There are banknotes [dead link] from $1 to a whopping $10,000 (handy if you're shopping for Rolls-Royces) and coins [dead link] of 1-50 cents. All smaller notes and the 2004 series of larger notes are printed as brightly coloured polymer notes.

Costs [ edit ]

By Southeast Asian standards Brunei is roughly on par with Singapore, meaning roughly twice as expensive as neighbouring Malaysia . You can reduce costs by eating at local restaurants and avoiding the more expensive restaurants in hotels. Budget accommodation is available.

Souvenirs [ edit ]

There is not much of a local crafts industry in Brunei. You'll see a handful of different types of branded souvenirs with the Brunei brand - that are all imported. Souvenir type shops usually resort to selling imported curiosities, candles and generic gifts.

Eat [ edit ]

Bruneians love to eat out and there are many excellent restaurants in Brunei serving a wide variety of cuisines, thanks to the large number of foreign workers in the country.

There is also the local nasi katok , a simple combination of rice and curried beef or chicken, which can be quite spicy. It is relatively inexpensive when compared to other food that you can buy, for example local food such as chicken rice. However, it is not a healthy option, with few vegetables and too much fat.

Another choice is ambuyat , a culinary experience unique to Borneo. It is a starchy and gooey paste made from sago that can be dipped into a savoury sauce.

Being a Muslim country, nearly all food sold in Brunei is halal , the exception being food stalls and restaurants catering to the ethnic Chinese community, which have been granted special permission to sell pork. Halal certification is handled by the Ministry of Religious Affairs (MoRA) ( Kementerian Hal Ehwal Ugama (KHEU) ).

Vegetarians should look for South Asian restaurants serving the large community of foreign workers. Another option is Chinese Buddhist vegetarian restaurants, as many ethnic Chinese in Brunei go on vegetarian fasts for specific Buddhist festivals. These can mainly be found in the suburbs of Bandar Seri Begawan, but you will need to make an effort to seek them out. Chinese Buddhist vegetarian restaurants are also the safest bet for vegans , as they traditionally do not use dairy products, but make sure your dish does not contain eggs.

It is illegal to eat in public during daylight hours in Ramadan, and most stalls and restaurants will be closed during the day. However, Chinese restaurants are permitted to remain open and sell takeaway meals to non-Muslims for consumption in private.

Kosher food is basically non-existent in Brunei.

• Kueh melayu (sugar, raisin, and peanut-filled sweet pancakes)

Drink [ edit ]

Brunei is a dry country : alcohol is not sold anywhere in the country and consumption of alcohol in public is prohibited by law. That said, non-Muslims are allowed to bring in up to two litres of alcohol (wine or spirits) plus up to twelve cans of beer every 48 hours for private consumption, and there is a wide array of duty-free shops just across the border in Malaysia to cater to this demand. However, alcohol must be declared upon arrival in Brunei while going through customs. There are also numerous bars and nightclubs in Tedungan just across the border in Malaysia 's Limbang district, Sarawak, which is where many Bruneians go for a good night out.

Many higher-end restaurants allow guests to bring in their own alcohol and corkage is not charged, though this is actually illegal and it's best to keep a low profile if you choose to consume in a public establishment. At the lower end (particularly Chinese restaurants), many restaurants supply illicit booze under euphemisms like "special tea".

One should definitely try out teh tarik , a sweet milk tea, as well as the wide array of coffee ( kopi ) available in restaurants.

Sleep [ edit ]

Accommodation in Brunei used to be very expensive, but some reasonably cheap guesthouses and hostels can now be found here and there. See Bandar Seri Begawan for listings.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Brunei is a very safe country, with low crime rates and no major security concerns. Brunei has a strict legal system ― which combines British common law and Sharia law ― that punishes crime severely, adding a huge layer of deterrance. The full harshness of Brunei's laws is reserved for criminals and those actually looking for trouble.

Brunei, like Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore, has very strict laws when it comes to drugs. Drug trafficking to a certain degree has a mandatory death sentence . Other crimes, such as murder, kidnapping and unauthorised possession of firearms are also punished with death. That said, an informal moratorium of capital punishment exists, though offenders should expect life imprisonment or long prison term. Brunei uses caning (for males only) for rapes, as well as for less serious crimes, including illegal entry, overstaying your visa for over 90 days, robbery, corruption and vandalism. Caning is no slap on the wrist. Strokes from the thick rattan cane are excruciating . They can take weeks to heal, and even scar for life. These laws apply to foreigners as well.

In theory, offences such as rape, adultery, sodomy, robbery and insult or defamation of the Prophet Muhammad carry the maximum penalty of death, though this is not enforced. Homosexuality carries a penalty of 40 strokes of the cane and/or a maximum of 10 years in jail. The punishment for theft that exceeds a certain amount is amputation . Those who "persuade, tell or encourage" Muslim children under the age of 18 "to accept the teachings of religions other than Islam" are liable to a fine or jail. (These laws mostly apply to Muslims, though some aspects apply to non-Muslims.) Homosexuality and adultery are illegal in Brunei, and can result in being stoned to death .

During the Islamic month of Ramadhan , avoid consumption of food and beverages in public as a hefty fine in the thousands will be levied if caught doing so. Additionally, all restaurants, including non-halal ones, cease dine-in services during the day. It is best to avoid visiting Brunei during Ramadhan.

Driving in Brunei is easy. Most drivers obey the traffic rules, and the roads are well maintained. Distances are not great. If you're driving around Brunei, however, do watch out for impatient and/or dangerous drivers. Some drivers obviously consider themselves above the law, and given the social structure of Brunei, this is likely to actually be the case. Take extra caution around midnight and early morning as some drivers illegally race on the roads.

Public celebration of non-Muslim religious festivals such as Christmas and Easter is illegal in Brunei. It is still legal to celebrate them in private, so long as the celebrations are kept secret from Muslims.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

Eating out is generally safe because of good food safety standards. But drink water only if it's been boiled, or bottled water. Protect yourself from mosquito bites . Dengue fever is a real risk. Malaria risk is low.

Brunei's hospitals are generally adequate for most routine procedures. However, due to the lack of specialists, you may need to be airlifted to Singapore if your case requires complicated surgical procedures; ensure that your insurance covers this if you plan to be in Brunei.

Respect [ edit ]

The Brunei Government is run as a Malay Islamic Monarchy ( Melayu Islam Beraja ) principle, which means that the Sultan of Brunei, apart from being one of the richest men in the world, effectively runs the country. You can expect the Sultan to appear on the front page of the two local daily newspapers almost every day, and occupy the first ten minutes of the local TV news bulletins.

You'll see the wealth of the country in everything that the Sultan touches, but much of the rest of the country misses out on badly needed investment and development. Over half of the country are expatriate workers or permanent residents, and it's not hard to engage them in a conversation about the political situation once you gain their trust. Brunei is a country where your race, religion and heritage matter in day-to-day life. Still, it's best to approach the subject very carefully, especially with Bruneians.

The Bruneian Royal Family is protected by lèse-majesté laws; speaking out against them or making fun of them is a crime and will culminate in a prison sentence.

Bruneians are generally courteous and tolerant. Non-Muslim visitors are generally not restricted in their manner of dress. Women can wear sleeveless shirts and shorts and blend in, and are not legally required to wear the hijab, known locally as the tudung . Super-skimpy swimming attire is probably one step too far.

It is a good idea to keep your ideas to yourself on politics (domestic, regional, or international) and world events, particularly those relating to Islam or Islamic countries, but most Bruneians are more than happy to discuss the role their religion and royalty play in their lives if you listen respectfully.

Like in Malaysia, you'll often be expected to take your shoes off in Brunei, in places like hostels, museums, and mosques. Wear socks if you want, and be grateful for the opportunity to cool off your feet after walking around in the tropical heat.

Connect [ edit ]

By phone [ edit ].

The international code for Brunei is 673 . The telephone numbers in Brunei consist of 7 digits with no local codes, although the first digit of the number indicates the area such as 3 for the Belait District and 2 for Bandar Seri Begawan.

The prepaid Hallo Kad , available from TelBru telephone offices (including one at the airport) and other outlets in denominations from $5-50 can be used at any phone in the country to make local and international calls. Other phone cards are also available for use in public phones.

Mobile phone services are provided by two network operator DST e Progresif Cellular . Coverage is completed across almost all of the country. Coverage in the Temburong national park areas may be patchy.

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15 Best Places to Visit in Brunei

Brunei has long been synonymous with opulence and oil money. And, in fact, there’s little that immediately counteracts that image in this nation of shimmering whitewashed mosques and golden-tipped minarets. In the west and all around the well-to-do capital at Bandar Seri Begawan, you’ll see nodding donkeys and the industrial workings of the sultanate’s petroleum industry. You’ll spot rich arabesque palaces and ambitious building projects erupting on every corner.

But let’s not forget that this is Borneo either; and with Borneo comes real wildernesses. We’re talking dense rainforests and volcanic peaks. We’re talking rustic villages of longhouses and the occasional sighting of an uber-rare clouded leopard! Granted, you’ll have to head deep into the southern or eastern recesses of the nation for those, but there are always – tantalizingly – there.

So, with everything from buzzing markets to monkey-trodden jungles, check out this list of the best places to visit in Brunei :

1. Bandar Seri Begawan

Bandar Seri Begawan (or just BSB) is perhaps the most richly-adorned capital you’ve never heard of.

Home to just 50,000 people, it’s a pint-sized lesson in how oil money can change the world.

Having been transformed in the last century, from a seaside trading town to the gilded epicenter of drilling and home of the great Sultan of Brunei, the town hosts wondrous – if a tad gaudy – sights like the gold-tipped Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the colossal Istana Nurul Iman, which holds the world record for the largest governmental building on the globe.

There’s also fascinating Islamic craft on display in the Brunei Museum, and oodles of shopping to be had in the malls of Gadong.

2. Ulu Temburong National Park

The revered Green Jewel of Brunei, Ulu Temburong sits nestled deep in the recesses of the country’s eastern exclave.

A veritable mecca for ecotourists and wildlife lovers, it’s been hailed across the globe as a fine example of state-sponsored conservation.

In all, it covers a whopping 550 square kilometers of primeval rainforest, and hosts the exotic likes of rhinoceros hornbills and swinging gibbon colonies.

Visitors who make their way here can enjoy safaris on specially constructed rope bridges in the canopies, which offer a unique perspective atop the old growth jungle.

3. Kampong Ayer

Sat smack bang in the middle of the winding Brunei River as it weaves through the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan, this standalone area of the city can be seen as a destination in its own right.

Also known as, simply, the water village, it’s formed completely by homes that jut just above the channels on stilts.

Many are connected with rickety boardwalks, and play host to happy local families who love showing unexpected visitors around.

The only way to reach Kampong Ayer is by flagging down a water taxi from the banks in BSB.

4. Pekan Tutong

Pekan Tutong (that’s just Tutong Town in English) is the regional hub for the whole Tutong District – the area found immediately to the east of Bandar Seri Begawan on the northern edge of Brunei.

Located right on the edge of the South China Sea, it’s home to a clutch of acclaimed schools and a few good guesthouses.

However, the major pull is surely the golden stretch of sand that lines the city at Seri Kenangan.

This sparkling, wide beach runs along the courses of the Tutong River, and plays host to enticing beach bars and seafood restaurants as it goes – it’s surely one of the top places for sun, sand and sea in all of Brunei.

5. Kuala Belait

Rubbing shoulders with Malaysian Sarawak on the very western edge of Brunei, this oil-fed town of nodding donkeys offers an image of the Brunei of the modern age.

Bustling and packed with business folk who’ve come from afar to seek out petroleum beneath the ground, it’s also home to the famous teapot roundabout.

It’s also got its very own beachfront, which finds its zenith with the welcoming little park at Silver Jubilee.

For food, shopping and souvenirs, also be sure to make a beeline for the Tudong Saji: a bazaar that erupts after dark with fish dishes and Asian crafts.

Bustling with the biggest bazaars and marketplaces in all of Brunei, the area of Gadong – officially a separate town, though much more like a suburb of the capital at Bandar Seri Begawan – is the place to go for shopping in this small Asian nation.

Start with the huge malls, which are packed with electronics sellers and high-street fashion outlets, not to mention the only McDonald’s brand in the country (hence the perpetual queue!). And when the evening comes, it’s time to hit the energetic night market, which throbs with smelly fish stalls and stir-fry stands, the fragrances of tamarind and ginger and chili and soy all wafting through the air.

Muara juts out into the South China Sea with its own needle-shaped finger of land, forming the western end of the populous Brunei and Muara District.

Known primarily as one of the sultanate’s top beach towns, its home to a great stretch of golden sand and a clutch of picnic spots and playgrounds for those with kids in tow (look for the manicured lawns of the Muara Beach Recreational Park). Other pleasant walks can be had along the palm-dotted spit of Serasa Beach to the south, while views out across the ferry-dotted ocean are to die for.

8. Andulau Forest Reserve

A sea of waxy palms and ancient teak trees awaits travelers in the Andulau Forest Reserve, which sits neatly placed in the midst of Brunei, just a short jaunt east from the capital.

Made famous by the proliferation of old growth evergreen woods that dominates its interior, the area is also endowed with wild, muddy rivers and crashing waterfalls with splash pools for swimming.

Don’t expect to see many locals here (it’s one of the least-populated parts of the Sultanate), unless – that is – you mean tropical creatures in the ilk of rare clouded leopards and monkeys overhead!

One of the few towns to be found in Brunei’s exclave of Temburong, Bangar represents the administrative and commercial heart of this detached district in the east.

A small and compact place, it is well-connected to the capital at Bandar Seri Begawan by speed boat, which can be seen departing from the jetties of the riverside harbors here from morning until night.

The real draw of this place is surely the wild rainforests that lurk on the edges of town, with the legendary Labu Forest and the aforementioned Ulu Temburong National Park both on the menu.

However, it’s also a good spot to meet the locals and get to grips with the wilder character of the eastern region.

Nestled deep in the south-western corner of the Sultanate, little Labi town is one of the top spots for ecotourists heading to Brunei.

Essentially just a clutch of bamboo homes and rain-doused villages, it sits right on the edge of the wild Labi Forest Reserve.

That means guests get to keep company with gibbons and geckos and all manner of other woodland fauna, all whilst seeking out gushing waterfalls and swamps and hidden forest trekking trials.

A smattering of good nature lodges can be found in the village, while nearby Terawan and Tarunan also have other guesthouse options of their own.

Roughly contiguous with the aforementioned town of Kuala Belait, Seria also makes its home on the northern coastline of Brunei, where the sands and the city promenades dip down into the South China Sea.

Now famed for its wealth of prolific oil wells, the area is peppered with nodding donkeys and the recognizable relics of that decades-old petroleum industry.

In fact, Seria’s very history has been defined by oil since the very beginning, with WWII battles between the Allies and the Japanese taking place here as the two powers vied for control of Brunei’s rich petroleum wealth.

12. Labi Forest Reserve

Named for the small village on its periphery, the vast reserves of the Labi Forest range from the south-western flats of Brunei to the borderlands where the Gunung Mulu park of Malaysia crashes down from the Borneo highlands.

It’s a wild and untamed place, offering breathtaking viewpoints over the tops of the jungles, the gushing waterfalls of Wasai Kadir, and chances to see rare rainforest creatures on the trails.

Another major pull are the traditional longhouses of the Iban folk, which line the dirt tracks close to the reserve.

13. Jerudong

Jerudong is a flash place of neon signs and in-your-face attractions, located just on the edge of the ocean and directly west of central Bandar Seri Begawan.

Although now largely contiguous with the capital, the suburb has its own distinct character; largely thanks to the brightly-lit casinos and flamboyant gaming halls that line up along the streets by the bucket load.

The go-getter vibe is carried on by one mind-boggling roundabout shaped like a giant diamond ring, not to mention the countless theme parks and manmade beaches, where loop-de-loops meet babbling water fountains and country clubs.

14. Tasek Merimbun

Surrounded by the protected hinterland of the Tasek Merimbun Heritage Park (one of the top conservation areas in the sultanate as a whole), this huge lake – the largest natural lake in the country, no less – draws in visitors with the promise of unique flora and fauna.

Around its tiger lily-spotted banks, you’ll see age-old skiffs docked on weathered jetties, all of which are shrouded by the blooming greens of the jungle canopy.

It’s there where the white-collared fruit bats flit between the branches; there where the clouded leopards and the red leaf monkeys stalk the undergrowth.

15. Hutan Simpan Bukit Ladan

Another fine example of Brunei’s lush and verdant backcountry comes in the form of the Hutan Simpan Bukit Ladan park, which buts up to the Malay border on the western edge of Tutong District.

Be sure to pack one sturdy and sure pair of walking boots for this one, because the trails often come caked in mud and slippery as they pierce deep into the jungles.

You’ll be able to seek out interesting blooms of orchids between the fern fields, wonder at colossal teak trees caked in moss, and even take a canopy walk that lets you survey the vast hills from atop the rainforests that blanket them.

15 Best Places to Visit in Brunei:

• Bandar Seri Begawan
• Ulu Temburong National Park
• Kampong Ayer
• Pekan Tutong
• Kuala Belait
• Andulau Forest Reserve
• Labi Forest Reserve
• Tasek Merimbun
• Hutan Simpan Bukit Ladan

Travel in Brunei: Everything You Should Know Before You Visit

Categories Destinations , Asia , Brunei

I have to be honest. Travel in Brunei has never been at the top of my list for a variety of reasons. Life had other plans and I landed up spending three months in the country, making Borneo the island that I had spent the longest on.

One thing that I did realize after those three months is that I had been wrong about the country on so many counts and right in a few others. Do I miss Brunei? I do.

I miss the forests and the peace that the country has and most of all I miss Shawn because he had to stay back for a couple of months while I returned to India. With three months of exploring and travel in Brunei, I feel competent enough to write a detailed guide to the country so let’s plunge in shall we?

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The Global Consensus And Actual Travel In Brunei

Before I headed out to Brunei, I did a lot of research on the place. I looked at the news articles and the travel blogs. I must say that while the Brunei travel blogs talked about a smattering of things to do in Brunei, the media talked about how restrictive the country was.

Staying for three months in such a country did not seem pleasant to me but at that point I did not have much of a choice. Three days in however and my whole perspective took a drastic change. Why?

The thing about Brunei is that it has been in the news for all the wrong reasons and since traveling through the country is not popular because of its location, it is hardly ever explored properly. It doesn’t take you long to realize that the people in Brunei are some of the friendliest people you will meet.

I had someone hand me a box full of jackfruit on day one for free just because I said I loved it. It was something that happened (with other things) over and over again throughout my stay and it emphasizes just how generous people are.

What about the Sharia Law?

Now while I did fall in love with the country, I have to say that I did not agree with a lot of things. The Sharia law was one of those things. Unfortunately for us, we were in the country when the second wave of the Sharia law implementation took place.

My particular beef was with the laws involving the LGBTQ community. Luckily, the Sultan was forced to backtrack from some of the harsher punishments that were due to be implemented.

To Write Or Not To Write About Travel In Brunei

With all this in mind, I found myself at a crossroads. Do I write about travel in Brunei or not? I finally decided that I would write about it largely to talk about my feelings and the things that I did like about the country.

After all, Brunei is not very well documented, and I found myself exploring lesser visited destinations. Talking to the expats and the locals in the smaller town that I lived in reminded me that I wrote for the people who needed it. Factual tips about travel and living in a country that I spent a long while in.

Navigating Through The Brunei Travel Guide

In order to help you navigate through Globetrove’s Brunei Travel Guide, I have divided it into sections so that you can scroll directly down to the part of the post you want to access.

Expect the post to be long because I have a lot to share and talk about. I hope that the Brunei Travel Guide will help you if you do consider travel to the country or find yourself inside its borders for some reason.

• Facts about Brunei
• Facts for the visitor
• Things to do in Brunei

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Facts About Brunei

Travel in Brunei is not complete without visiting the board walk.

Let’s talk about the country before we get into the specifics about travel in Brunei. I always find that knowing about the location you head to in advance gives you a more immersive feel when you actually touch down. That is why I like to read up a bit on the weather, geography, history and culture before I start exploring.

Brunei has an interesting past. Today, the country is ruled by a Sultan but it wasn’t always so. In 1888, Brunei became a British protectorate. Till date you will find a British Garrison in Brunei. Things however began to change around 1929 when petroleum production began.

It was this production that turned the tides for Brunei and till today it is what sustains the economy of the country. For a brief period during 1941-1945 in the World War II, Brunei found itself being occupied by he Japanese. The British however later returned and eventually, negotiations were made for the independence of Brunei.

Once Brunei stabilized politically in the 1970’s, it quickly rose to become one of the most flourishing economies in the world thanks to the amount of petroleum that was and continues to be produced in the country. It does not come as a surprise therefore that there are a lot of expats (who are linked to the oil industry) that live in the oil towns of Brunei.

One of the first things that I realized during my travel in Brunei was that the entire landscape appears green. Okay, you may not see as much of this in Bandar Seri Begawan which is the capital of Brunei but the moment you start heading out of the city, the landscape changes rather dramatically.

The forest cover of the country is spectacular and many of the locals love walking through the numerous forest reserves and natural parks . Ulu Temburong however remains the most popular natural park that tourists visit.

Brunei has a tropical climate which means that you can expect it to be hot and humid. It rains during a large part of the year and when I say rains, I mean that it pours! So you need to plan what to pack accordingly. I recently wrote a whole guide to what to pack when visiting Brunei. You can find the link to the post below.

RELATED ARTICLES: The Ultimate Packing List For Brunei

The currency in Brunei is called the Bruneian Dollar and is often abbreviated as BND. Since it is benchmarked against the Singaporean dollar, both currency are valid tender in the country. I found this rather surprising at first but then I realized that it was part and parcel of life in Brunei.

One of the things that surprised me about travel in Brunei was the food. The food is surprisingly multicultural with large influences from the Malaysian, Singaporean,, Indonesian and Indian cuisines. That however isn’t all. It also has a thriving fast food industry.

Burgers are big deal in the country and you see them at all the local stalls. Italian food is also highly loved. I won’t do into the details of it since I have already written an in depth article about the food in Brunei.

RELATED ARTICLES:

• A Detailed Guide To Food In Brunei
• Guide to places to eat in Kuala Belait

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Facts For The Visitor

If you are considering travel in Brunei, then you may want to arm yourself with a couple of facts like how to get into the country, what is the transportation like, where should you stay etc. In order to make your quest for this information a bit easier, we have compiled as much pertinent information as we could in this segment of the Brunei Travel Guide.

Entering The Country

There are two main ways to enter Brunei and those are by the land borders and by air. I have however heard that the government is encouraging cruise ships to dock in Brunei to promote tourism in the country.

Flying into Brunei is a popular choice if you are heading just to the country itself. Many however choose to take one of the cheaper flights to either Kota Kinabalu (Sabah, Malaysia) or Miri (Sarawak, Malaysia) and then backpack their way through. There are a couple of cheapish flights that ply between these cities and the route through remains a popular one.

One of my pet peeves in Brunei was the transport. There is not much public transport to talk off. A couple of stray buses that head out of the main city but that is it. Everyone owns a car and, in some cases, multiple cars. There are cabs but they are extremely expensive when you compare the rates to the rest of Asia. Yes! Brunei is expensive so keep that in mind too!

Accommodation

Accommodation is definitely something that you will need to consider when you think about travel in Brunei. While we personally stayed closer to Kuala Belait which is a small town in Brunei, I wouldn’t recommend heading that far out if you are just passing through.

Most of the spots that you would see as a tourist are in or close to the capital city named Bandar Seri Begawan. Finding accommodation there would be the wisest. If you are looking for an experience, then think of staying in Kampung Ayer also known as Brunei’s water village.

One of the things that you should keep in mind when it comes to travel in Brunei is the dress code. While there are a couple of foreigners that wear knee level shorts, I would suggest staying modest. Loose cotton clothes is the way to go especially since the weather is hot and humid.

Avoid thicker fabrics. I preferred white and light colours for this very same reason. Carry a scarf or a shawl that you can use to cover your head when you enter a mosque or religious building. As a rule, most people are not bothered about what you wear but I would still err on the side of caution.

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Things To Do In Brunei

Travel in Brunei should definitely include visiting the different religious structures in the country.

When I talk about travel in Brunei, a lot of people stop me and ask me where Brunei is. Unlike its popular neighbours Malaysia and Indonesia, Brunei covers just a small piece of land on the mighty island of Borneo. A large part of this land is covered with forests and hence it does not come as a surprise that there are few tourist related activities to indulge in.

Main Cities In Brunei

Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital city of Brunei and is the place with most of the activities that as a tourist you would seek out. In fact, as far happening places in Brunei go, this is as bustling as it gets. The other cities are smaller and definitely less touristic.

Kuala Belait and Seria are two sleepy towns that lie closer to the Malaysian border. These two are oil towns and are largely populated by expats. Jerudong, Tutong and Gadong are other popular cities.

Religious Monuments

One of the main items that everyone talks about when they head to Brunei is the gorgeous mosques in the country. While I have had a chance to just visit one of them, I have seen many of them as we passed by. They are without a doubt gorgeous and well worth exploring if you have the time.

National Parks

Remember when I mentioned that Brunei is covered by forests? You can see this as you swoop in with your flight. Brunei has a number of forests that are protected and luckily deforestation is not a threat here as compared to neighbouring Malaysia.

They do however have some problems with forest fires during the hotter months and it can get bad with the highways being closed. Most of these forests however have parks that are incorporated into them so you can trek and enjoy nature. They are so profuse that you will definitely find a green spot no matter which part of Brunei you stay in.

RELATED ARTICLES:  Forest Reserves and Recreational Parks in Brunei

BRUNEI TRAVEL GUIDE: Experiences You Should Not Miss

As with every country, you will find that while you travel in Brunei, there are a couple of experiences that you really should not miss. While most of the notable sites can be covered in a two to three days (if you choose to visit Ulu Temburong), most of the sites are within the city of Bandar Seri Begawan and you don’t have to travel far. 

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Is Brunei Worth Visiting? My Experience in the Sultanate

I went to Brunei because everybody said it was boring.

I’m aware that’s a weird reason to go somewhere, but I’m a contrarian at heart. If somebody insists a place isn’t worth visiting, I immediately add it to the top of my list and set off in search of its redeeming features.

When I first considered checking out Brunei, I struggled to find many positive write-ups about the sultanate. Everyone declared the country dull. Articles explained it was only worth visiting for a day and that you should only go if you’re into counting countries.

I subsequently gave myself four days to explore — more than most visitors ever consider allocating. I was determined to dig deep, however, and discover worthwhile activities in the country. I like to believe that every place is worth visiting, and I wanted to find what it was that made Brunei special.

My first impressions were excellent.

We had chosen to stay at Taman Mawar Guesthouse because it was the highest-rated guesthouse in the city. (Update 2024: Unfortunately, Taman Mawar has since closed down; I now recommend staying at Capital Residence Suites , which is well-rated and in a decent location).

Previous guests at Taman Mawar had raved about the owner, Maya, writing about how she’d shown them the country — driving them to the sights, taking them out to dinner, and doing everything she could to make their trip wonderful. It turned out she was just as lovely as I’d hoped.

She met us from the airport in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, and asked what we loved to do most when we travel.

“Eat!” Dave and I chorused.

“Excellent,” she said with a smile. “I have the perfect place for you.”

Gadong Night Market was the exact opposite to what I pictured when I imagined eating in Brunei, and I loved that Maya had spontaneously chosen to take us there.

Before arriving, my uninformed brain assumed that dining in Brunei meant perching atop solid gold thrones, sampling diamond-infused noodles while a dark plume of petrol gently wafted past my emerald-encrusted table.

A bustling night market, Gadong was filled with both locals and smoke, as vendors barbecued meat and vegetables on skewers, and customers snacked on the offerings. Stalls offered a variety of fruit juices, from orange to rambutan; mango to durian. It was possible to eat here for as little as 1 BND ($0.75) . For a country that has a reputation for being over-the-top ostentatious and expensive for visitors, it was fascinating to see a side of it that was the exact opposite.

“Do you want to try something very local?” Maya asked us.

“Always,” I said.

“Well,” she began to laugh. “It’s something that even I don’t eat. I don’t know if you’ll like it. My guests often do not like it.”

“What is it?”

She laughed again, then whispered, “Chicken butt.”

I joined in with her giggles. “Yes,” I told her. “I totally want to try that.”

After all, chicken is chicken is chicken, right? And I always support the decision to use every part of an animal in recipes.

So, how was chicken anus?

It was, um, tubular . It was chicken nugget sized, but there was also this tough, chewy tube in the centre. It wasn’t bad! I 100% know that I am not in any way selling this to anyone, but if you get the chance to sample it at any point, it’s worth having a quick nibble.

After a wonderful start to our time in Brunei, Dave and I set off the following morning surrounded by bright blue skies. I was thrilled.

A significant number of the photos I had seen of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque — the most famous building in the country — depicted it sheltering beneath grey clouds, so I suspected that like many equatorial countries, having a perfect sky was a rarity. Being able to take photos of it on a sunshine-filled day felt like a privilege, and I was practically jogging to get there.

I’ve never been able to warm to any religion, but I have a soft spot for mosques.

And this particular mosque was glam.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built in the 1950s and was named after the 28th sultan of Brunei.

Interestingly, the materials used to build the mosque were sourced from countries around the world: the granite from China, the marble from Italy, the carpets from Saudi Arabia, the timber from the Philippines, and the chandeliers from the U.K. Topping it all off are the sparkling domes that are blanketed in gold leaf.

The mosque is the tallest building in the country, at a not-so-towering height of 53 metres, which gives some indication as to how built-up this capital city is. Answer: not at all.

At one point, the Bank of Brunei built their headquarters higher than the mosque — it didn’t last long, though, as the sultan ordered the top floor of the building to be removed.

As an appreciator of all things mosque-y, I consider the Omar Ali Saifuddien to be right up there among the most beautiful. In my opinion it doesn’t quite  top the Sheik Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi, but it was so special nonetheless.

One of the biggest surprises from my time in Brunei was just how few tourists there were. We had this gorgeous mosque all to ourselves for half an hour — if you were to place a building this beautiful in many other countries around the world, you’d be jostling for space with a camera-wielding crowd.

I snapped my dream photos with the blue, almost-cloudless sky and was already convinced that Brunei was worth visiting.

An interesting fact is that everything in Brunei shuts down every Friday between 12 and 2 p.m. to allow residents to pray. But not only that: every building in the country has to be within listening distance of a mosque and public displays of Christmas have been banned within the country. The sale of alcohol is also banned within the country, but non-Muslim visitors can import a reasonable amount if they wish.

As we searched the streets for somewhere to have lunch, I was struck by how safe the city felt, and how quiet it was for a capital.

Thanks to its vast reserves of oil and gas, Brunei is one of the richest countries in the world, with one of the highest GDPs. You probably already know the sultan is the richest monarch in the world, and he flaunts this wealth shamelessly.

Fun fact: My mum used to work for a bank in her twenties, and one of her tasks was to look after the Sultan of Brunei’s bank account in the U.K. He once invited her to lunch while he was visiting London, but she was too nervous to attend and pretended to be unwell!

In some respects, the sultan does a hell of a lot of good for Brunei. The country doesn’t have personal income tax, sales tax, or VAT, and citizens receive free education, healthcare and pensions, along with access to social housing and cheap loans. I didn’t see a single homeless person in Bandar Seri Begawan and crime rates are very low. Everyone I ran into spoke impeccable English.

Dig a little deeper, though, and you’ll discover life in the sultanate isn’t quite the definition of perfect.

In 2014, the sultan announced he was going to be introducing Sharia law, which is never a good thing, in my opinion. A decade later, however, it has yet to be fully implemented. Regardless of that, Brunei is a strict Islamic country with several inhumane laws. Most notably, LGBTQ+ rights are non-existent, with same-sex relationships punishable by up to 10 years in prison. If Sharia law was actually enacted, it could be punishable by death by stoning. While Sharia law will technically only apply to Muslims in Brunei, that’s still a whopping 65% of the population. If you’re not straight and cisgender, life in the country is tough.

Freedom of speech doesn’t really exist in Brunei, either. They have an unelected ruler that can never be removed, and lèse-majesté laws means that saying anything negative about the sultan is a crime. You could be jailed indefinitely for doing so. It leaves me wondering: could I even safely return to Brunei after writing the previous few passages? 

Ten per-cent of residents in Brunei are Chinese, and it’s almost impossible for them to gain citizenship, which makes them ineligible for many of the benefits that come from living there. Over 90% of them are stateless.

It’s a travel writing cliche, but Brunei is a complicated country of contrasts.

Our next stop of the day was the Royal Regalia Museum, which was free to enter. This bizarre place is home to a vast number of extravagant gifts that the sultan has received from heads of state from around the world. You couldn’t take photos inside the the museum, unfortunately, so we took a couple of snaps of the golden chariot in the entrance, then wandered in.

The museum covers the life of the sultan, from birth to his coronation to the present day, then branches off into the collection of gifts he’s received over the years. It was interesting to see which countries had gifted him the most lavish presents, and which had presented him with things that looked, um, a little bit lame in comparison.

We spent two hours inside the museum and left feeling as though we had a better understanding of the sultan, so I’d recommend heading there if you find yourself in Brunei.

Not wanting to run out of things to see on our very first day (which is perhaps your first indication of how much the city has to offer), we decided to head back to our guesthouse.

In a country where oil and gas money subsidise the cost of petrol, Brunei is a country where almost everybody drives — it’s common for households to have as many as four cars. As we didn’t have our own transport, we opted to do as the few carless locals do and take the bus back to our guesthouse. It was inexpensive at 1 BND ($0.75) for a 15-minute ride.

The following morning, I had one activity in mind: to head out on the water.

Bandar Seri Begawan is home to a population of proboscis monkeys, which are only found on the island of Borneo. I’ve always wanted to hang out with these unusual-looking animals, so when I found out you could hire a boat to take you to see them, I was up early and walking into town.

I mentioned above that practically everybody in Brunei drives, and that driving is seen as the only way to get around. We rarely saw anybody walking into the city, and I soon learned why when Dave and I attempted the hour-long trek into the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan.

Within two minutes of setting out, a car pulled over and a smiling middle-aged woman waved us over.

“Get in! Get in!”

We piled inside, thanking her profusely.

“Welcome to Brunei!” she said. “Where are you going? Where can I take you?”

Dave and I communicated with each other using our eyes to try and work out if we were in a taxi. I’d read that Brunei has less than 50 across the country and that it’s super-rare to see any driving around. After all, there isn’t much point in operating as a taxi when most of the locals drive themselves.

When she dropped us off at the waterfront, we offered her money for petrol and she laughed, eventually accepting a few Bruneian dollars for the ride. That experience coupled with the wonderful hospitality we’d been shown by Maya had me bowled over by the kindness of the locals.

Of course, given that I’m bisexual, it also had me wondering if people would have been quite so welcoming if I hadn’t been travelling in the country with my boyfriend.

We approached a local guy on the jetty and asked how much it would cost to spend a couple of hours on the water. We wanted to catch a sighting of the proboscis monkeys, but also take a look at Kampong Ayer: a series of floating villages where three per-cent of Bruneians live their lives. After negotiating the price down to 30 BND ($22) , we clambered into his boat and put on our life jackets.

Minutes later, we were racing towards the mangroves; the wind causing my eyes to water. I wasn’t holding out much hope for a monkey-sighting, as I knew we were roughly two hours past prime observation time, but smiled anyway. I love jungles, and spending time in them was precisely why we had chosen to travel to Borneo.

After half an hour of high-speed boating, during which we paused for a few moments to take in the view of the largest residential palace in the world (#Brunei), we spotted a small clearing through the mangroves, and manoeuvred our way between the roots.

Within minutes: movement!

I couldn’t believe it.

Ahead of us, a silhouette of a proboscis monkey made its way up a distant tree trunk and caused my jaw to drop.

These days, I prefer to spend my time in the moment rather than witnessing magic from behind a camera screen. It’s a fairly poor decision to have made as a travel blogger, I’ll admit, to often have only a couple of photos to choose between rather than hundreds, but it’s one I’ve made peace with. I spent ten minutes watching the proboscis monkeys scrambling through the trees before reaching for my camera.

“You need a zoom lens,” our driver said, as though he could read my mind.

“Yup,” I said, frowning as I squinted at my photos.

I wasn’t too concerned, though. We were planning to travel into Malaysian Borneo after our time in Brunei and I’d read that animal encounters were far more frequent and exciting in Sabah.

I asked our driver if he’d mind showing us around Kampong Ayer.

He’d grown up on this group of floating villages, so was able to tell us about his life on the water, pointing out the school-on-stilts that he used to attend, as well as the local police and fire stations — all of them on stilts above the river. While most people think of Kampong Ayer as a single village, it actually encompasses 42 villages on the water, stretching out for 23 miles.

This part of Brunei is over 1,000 years old and is home to a dwindling population of around 13,000. Within the villages, you’ll find 13 schools, an art gallery, a mosque, post offices, petrol stations, and even a prison. If you look on Booking , you’ll find half a dozen private rooms you can rent out in order to gain a taste of this traditional Bruneian life.

If you’re anything like me, you probably hold the misconception that these homes are primitive in nature, but residents on the water have access to electricity, air conditioning, running water, TVs, and the internet. Some of Bandar Seri Begawan’s wealthy residents choose to live on the water, and you’ll see their luxury cars parked up on the banks beside the river. And yet, Kampong Ayer is also home to a population of undocumented immigrants and poverty is rife. Just like any other city.

You can walk along the boardwalks that connect the villages to gain a closer look at the locals’ existence, but I was content to observe from afar. I’m always hyper-conscious of intruding into the lives of locals — I know I’d hate having groups of tourists peering into my windows all day long — so always keep my distance in these situations.

We paid our driver for our 90 minutes on the river, and received a text from Maya as we clambered out of the boat. She had finished her yoga class and wondered if we wanted to grab lunch with her.

Obviously, we did.

I can’t fully express how much richer Maya made our time in Brunei, so I’m disappointed she’s since closed down her guesthouse. Without her, we would have experienced greater challenges in a city with limited public transport, and wouldn’t have been able to explore as much of the country’s food scene.

She picked us up and told us she was going to drive us to one of her favourite restaurants. On the way, we discovered that her daughter is currently studying at the same university that I went to! My university was known for having one of the highest percentage of international students in the U.K., and many Bruneians choose to study in the U.K. on a full scholarship, but it still felt like a bizarre coincidence.

We pulled up outside Aminah Arif, and Maya told us she was going to introduce us to ambuyat: the national dish of Brunei.

Ambuyat is a bit of an odd meal, which was exactly why I had been so desperate to try it.

It’s made from the interior of a sago palm, and is completely tasteless. Its texture is gooey, gluey, and gloopy, and it’s eaten with a special type of fork called candas. These forks are made from two bamboo sticks that are glued together at one end and splay out to give a gap of around an inch at the other.

I have a feeling I’m not explaining this well. Here’s a photo of Dave using them.

Because ambuyat has zero flavour whatsoever, it’s a boring-ass dish to eat on its own. That’s why you order a ton of dips and dishes to accompany it! We chose a fantastic sauce that was made from fermented shrimp, durian, and chilli, and it gave each mouthful an incredible spicy, sweet, and sour flavour.

To eat ambuyat, you stick your chandas into the starch and start spinning the fork in your fingers, as you would with spaghetti. Once you’ve got a mouth-sized ball on the end of your fork, flick the chandas upwards, dip the ambuyat into the sauce, then place it in your mouth. Because ambuyat has such a glue-like texture, you need to swallow the ball immediately, totally whole, as chewing achieves nothing — trust me, I tried.

We spent three hours chatting with Maya as we sampled everything, then protesting when she told us this was her treat and refused to accept our money.

Maya: totally the best.

With our stomachs full, we returned to our guesthouse and pondered what to do next. We had the rest of the afternoon to explore, as well as the following day, and I realised we’d exhausted all of the touristy things to do in the country.

As in, there was nothing left to do.

Well, I mean, there were things .

I could have done the canopy walk at Ulu Temburong National Park, but everything I’d read said that the jungle was more impressive and less expensive to see in non-Bruneian Borneo, where I was going to be heading to next. I’d be spending money just for the sake of having something to do.

I could have gone SCUBA diving, too, but long-term readers already know I’ll spend the rest of my life writing about how I want to try it, but never actually having the courage to do so.

I could have taken a day trip out to Pantai Seri Kenangan, which is the best beach in Brunei, but the weather wasn’t conducive to sunbathing while we were there.

The rest of our time in Brunei could therefore be classified as a bit boring. For a capital city, Bandar Seri Begawan appeared to have next-to-nothing going on.

So, is Brunei Worth Visiting?

Brunei is the only country I have little desire or need to return to. I don’t feel as though there’s more left to discover as a visitor, and it’s ones of the few countries where I felt I’d experienced almost every tourist-related activity within 48 hours.

Does that mean you shouldn’t go?

Not necessarily.

I genuinely enjoyed wandering around Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, loved trying ambuyat and experiencing Bruneian night market culture, and was fascinated by the way of life in Kampong Ayer. They were all worthwhile experiences, and I would recommend them to anyone planning a trip there. I also experienced such an extreme level of kindness and friendliness from the locals that it really stood out to me. I felt welcomed and safe.

Despite that, you can do the majority of the tourist activities within 24 hours. All of them within a couple of days.

The contrarian in me is livid that I’m about to offer the exact same recommendation as I’d read before arriving in Brunei.

You should visit Brunei if you want to visit every country in the world. You should visit Brunei if you find yourself passing through on a layover or when travelling in Borneo. You should visit Brunei if you want to see what one of the least visited countries in Asia is like. You should visit Brunei if it sounds interesting to you.

But, uh, you probably shouldn’t spend more than a couple of days there.

It turns out it does get pretty boring after all.

Would you make the effort to go to Brunei?

Related Posts on Brunei and Borneo 🇧🇳 How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Brunei? 🚍 How to Get From Brunei to Kota Kinabalu 🍜 Where to Eat in Kota Kinabalu 🪲 Catching Fireflies on the Kawa Kawa River

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Lauren Juliff

Lauren Juliff is a published author and travel expert who founded Never Ending Footsteps in 2011. She has spent over 12 years travelling the world, sharing in-depth advice from more than 100 countries across six continents. Lauren's travel advice has been featured in publications like the BBC, Wall Street Journal, USA Today, and Cosmopolitan, and her work is read by 200,000 readers each month. Her travel memoir can be found in bookstores across the planet.

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38 comments.

We did Borneo (Malaysian, based out of Kuching), and I loved it and wanted to go to Brunei when we went to the caves at Mulu, but just didn’t have the time. So I’m glad you’ve gone and done (as you always do) a great write up on it so I know what I missed.

And question for you – when you and Dave travel to more conservative countries like Brunei, do you wear wedding bands to avoid problems as two unmarried people staying together? I’ve heard that it’s a smart thing to do, and we did it before we were married just to be safe…

Nope, we have never worn rings. Never been asked to prove if we’re a married couple or had anyone object to us staying in the same room, and we’ve been to quite a few Islamic countries. If a hotel didn’t let us stay in the same room, we’d just book separate ones or stay in a different hotel.

Haha, I also choose to go places just because people say they’re boring! I’d definitely love to go to Brunei, even if there’s only like 2 days worth of stuff to do there. :)

High five for wanting to see a place in a different light! :-) Even though I didn’t quite manage it this time…

Cool! I’ll admit that Brunei has never been on my travel radar but sounds like a great stop. That food market sounds awesome and those monkeys are so cute! I’m glad you enjoyed your time there, even if you don’t need to go back. I think that’s okay. We don’t have to love every place and want to revisit. I also tried chicken butt in the Philippines and remember it being a big joke at the table!

Honestly, it feels so good to not feel a desperate urge to a return to a place for once. My travel wishlist is forever growing, so I’m always looking for an excuse to strike places from the list! :-)

I challenge you to visit East Timor

Already have a trip booked there for March.

Nice one. Would be really interesting to read something about it first hand as there is not much info on any travel blog.

Yeah, I haven’t been able to find much online about it so I’m super excited to get there! That’s always my favourite kind of travel destination.

Actually, the Chinese population takes up 30%~ of the country.

I’d read that in a few places, but also that it was around 10% in others, like: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethnic_Chinese_in_Brunei Thanks for reading!

I have to admit, despite your claims it was boring, somehow this post has made me want to visit (but maybe just for a day). Ambuyat looks so interesting and I want to try it! Hard pass on the chicken anus though.

Ha! Ambuyat, at least, is really worth trying. I wish it was available outside of Borneo so that more people would have the opportunity to try it.

Did you guys tried the Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque? I read in another blog that while not as pretty as the Omar Ali Saifuddien, it is still attractive and plus it is the biggest in the country. Just an idea for an additional activity.

Yep! It was pretty nice. You can see the outside within five minutes, though, and we weren’t allowed inside.

Fascinating! I knew virtually nothing about Brunei and I think if I had looked into visiting, I probably wouldn’t have bothered because like you say, most people just say it’s boring – but you’ve actually made me interested in going! Everyone sounds so friendly too. It would be interesting to see what you would have thought if you had just gone for 2 days and not run out of things to do.

That’s so funny! Even when I came to write this post, I was expecting it to turn out super-negative, but by the end of it, I was like, oh okay, Brunei wasn’t actually that bad . Just a little boring, but as long as you visit for just a couple of days, you won’t have enough time to experience that.

Thanks for sharing, I’m always curious to know more about these least-popular countries. I don’t think I will ever go there myself as I don’t travel full time so I need to manage my itineraries well – with so many interesting places and activities in that region of the world, I guess Brunei will not fit in there ;) But I enjoyed learning more about it from your post. And respect for trying that chicken butt… ;)

Hey man, Just a suggestion. you guys should try to go to Temburong ( 4th District of Brunei ). since you said you love jungle. you will love it

Thank you! Maybe if I head back to Brunei for a second time :-)

I grew up in Brunei in the 90’s/early 2000’s, had 12 years there as an expat from the UK. I’m so happy you went and that other people are thinking of going. I know I’m bias as I had a wonderful childhood and still think of it as home but I’m happy from the sounds of it Brunei is still Brunei regardless of the law changes. I went round selling flowers as an enterprising 10 year old and got invited for a lot of cups of tea. A couple of things; you can go trekking on horseback on the beach, go to the Empire Hotel (very posh but fun if you want to splurge), wander through the jungle to waterfalls, have a night over the border in Miri if you want some local nightlife, stay in a traditional long house in Temburong. I’ve always said Brunei is the kind of place that you are either there for a weekend or a lifetime.

My husband & I visited Brunei for 5 days. We enjoyed the peacefulness & the nature of Brunei.

Thanks for the good writing. It seems Brunei has nothing going on in it after all. There is much greater mosque on it’s neighbour, Kinabalu. Better museums thorough South East Asia.

Also Kampung Ayer is nothing compared to Kapuas riverside in my city (Pontianak). We have much better food too.

Brunei will be the last country to visit, for me. Even though it’s a neighbouring country.

Yes, it’s not really a country to go out of your way to check out, but if you do get there, there’s at least a day or two’s worth of things to keep you busy.

Thanks Lauren for what you wrote about Brunei, it helped me a lot. I like Brunei, two days are perfect. I found an old chineese, second generation (58 years old) that drove us around half day for $ 60 No stress and he knew everything like a guide. Only problem is that you cant have a beer when you want to but I see it like a rehab ! Tomorrow he pick us up and drive us to the airport cheaper than a taxi and he bring me a beer ! Hans

That sounds like such a great trip! I’m glad you had a nice time :-)

Thanks Lauren for sharing your experience. It sounded you have a pleasant visit after all! Brunei may not have some of the “fun” places that tourists can find in other countries for e.g. 🍻🍷or night life, but Brunei offers fun eco-tourism (if one goes beyond Bandar Seri Begawan) in addition to places which offer local (and international) delicacies and cultural experience. Brunei is a safe, peaceful and a generally clean country. The people are friendly and hospitable and that makes you feel welcomed as a tourist! How one’s visit to a place turned out to be “boring” or “pleasant”, it sometimes depends on whether you feel welcomed or unwelcomed! It’s a pity you didn’t visit the amazing waterfall “tasik” which is about 15 mins away from town, the ulu Belalong national park in Temburong district, the Empire Hotel, the Jerudong theme park… For those who are yet to visit Brunei, you can do a trip around Borneo…Kota Kinabalu – Brunei – Miri – Kuching – Pontianak. Every stop will give you different experience. A number of my friends after they did the Borneo experience, they shared that they appreciate Brunei being a safer, peaceful and a cleaner country.

I appreciate the details you gave about your visit. It definitely sounds like a place to visit for some people and not for some. Like you, I like to visit places that most people advise against, in the hopes of discovering something different or unique that others may have missed. I have to say, however, that I am disappointed in your views of Sharia Law, especially in its practice in a place where you were only a visitor. The reason they don’t pay taxes, have free healthcare and education, and many other liberties (that the so-called free world doesn’t even have) is directly from Sharia Law. For you to imply that Sharia Law “is never a good thing” is absolutely offensive and inconsiderate to over 2 billion of the world’s population. You may not believe in or agree with Sharia Law or certain aspects of a specific religion, but that doesn’t give you (or anyone else) the right to judge or criticize. It’s like someone saying, “Most things about Italy were great, but a majority of the people are Catholic, which is never a good thing because, you know, they’re all pedophiles and they hate gays. But I loved the food and cathedrals!” It’s offensive, ignorant, and careless.

For informational purposes, I would also like to add that Mosques are places of worship for Muslims. Their extravagance and beauty are meant to show devotion to God and love for the faith. Comparing Mosques and saying that one is more beautiful than the other is frowned upon because they are all considered “House of God.” One can absolutely have a favorite, but comparing them as if it were a competition of architecture is considered disrespectful.

All in all, I enjoyed reading about your experience in Brunei and I thank you for sharing them. I only ask that you think carefully next time before insulting an entire group of people.

I’m queer. How can I be positive about something that states I should be murdered because of who I love?

If Catholicism resulted in Italy introducing a law where humans like me were stoned to death, then yeah, I would have the same opinion as I do with Sharia law.

Hi Lauren, This is the first article of yours I have read, having wandered here through the glories of random links. I shall certainly read more, your style is very informative and has a pleasant, conversational tone.

I felt I must comment (I rarely do) in response to the previous politely disparaging post. Strict Sharia law is an extreme element of Islam, any attempt to justify extremism is indefensibly wrong, regardless of context or faith. I don’t have a deity, but if I did I would not trust anyone who told me to kill for that deity, that is their own agenda speaking. Similarly, as a non-Muslim it is totally acceptable to consider Mosques in terms of their aesthetic qualities. I suppose I would be assumed to be Christian by default; I’m not, but I adore Christian churches, especially York Minster. They are often beautiful and I’m in awe of what we can achieve, that’s not disrespectful to a faith I have no interest in or interaction with.

Anyway, more power to your elbow, Lauren, I’m off to browse your archive.

“Sharia” only means “law”. It is not the problem. The problem is what some countries make of a simple arabic word. You could have simply boycotted the place this said, instead of spending money in a country without basic human rights.

I don’t believe in travel boycotts — if I did, I wouldn’t be able to visit anywhere. All countries are unethical in some way. I wouldn’t even be able to spend time in my own home country! The places that I visited in Brunei were locally-run establishments — locals are not their governments.

Hi! I’m glad that you visited Brunei. :) It certainly isn’t the place for people who seeks for adventure and this is coming from a person who’s lived here for 20 years.

Even though we are lacking in terms of development, it still is a place that is close to my heart. When the government provide all these free stuff they’re forsaking development / infrastructure (or at least that wasn’t their priority). This is probably why it’s terribly boring here. However, I still wouldn’t leave this place. It’s probably difficult for people to fathom why but this country I call home is far more than what is said on the news.

I can’t say how life is like for queer people here since I’m not one. But my best friend is. She loves Brunei with her entirety. Of course that doesn’t speak for all the queer people. And I certainly do not agree with how Chinese are not being treated as one of us. Or how low-skilled immigrants are treated by some locals. These are some social problems that we have. But it’s still a beautiful place to me.

I’d like to end this message with how I’ve learned to come to love my country. I wasn’t a patriot. I was liberal than most people my age when I was younger due to being exposed to western laws and media. So I disagreed with a lot of things done here. There was this instance in my life where I visited the rehabilitation centre for drug addicts. This one staff who was in charge of touring us really spoke to me when he teared up over how though there are people on death rows the Sultan never passed for them to be executed. The last execution was in 1950s. Then there was another instance, my mom was diagnosed with cancer and we didn’t have to pay a single cent for her treatment. If we had to we probably wouldn’t have been able to afford it since I don’t come from a privileged family. Where healthcare is scarce and a luxury at some places I am eternally grateful for being born here.

OKAY IM PROBABLY RAMBLING on why I love this country but yeah just an insight.

Kind regrads, Nazihah

What an ignorant idiot. Sharia laws should be implemented as they are so beneficial for societal stability and Human rights. Imagine living somewhere where there is nothing wrong with being gay. What a disgraceful violation of human rights. Sharia is so lenient. It simply allows Muslims to be Muslims and non Muslims to be non Muslims privately. But of course, westerners want Muslims to be nuked. Homosexuality should obviously be punished with stoning;. A baby whom hasn’t been manipulated by the west could tell you as much.

You know, in my experience, I’ve found the people who are most disgusted by LGBTQ+ humans are those who secretly wish they had the freedom to explore that side of themselves. I hope one day you’ll be able to get the opportunity to do so 💜

Youre so disgusting

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Meet Lauren Juliff

• Brunei Darussalam
• 11 Fantastic Reasons To Visit...

11 Fantastic Reasons to Visit Brunei

Brunei Darussalam on Borneo Island offers rainforests, some of Asia’s most beautiful mosques and almost a complete lack of tourists. But sadly, the tiny Sultanate doesn’t register on most travellers’ radars. Here are our favourite reasons to visit Brunei and why you should put it on your Southeast Asian itinerary.

A refreshing lack of tourists.

Brunei is among the least visited countries in the world. Few can even point to the Sultanate on a map, let alone consider taking a trip there. Those who have experienced the mass tourism in Thailand and Vietnam will appreciate the refreshing tranquillity in Brunei. And the locals haven’t sold out to get a slice of the tourist pie.

Location, location, location

Explore the sprawling kampong ayer.

Kampong Ayer holds many titles and nicknames, and is a national heritage of Brunei. The floating village stretches across the Brunei River in Bandar Seri Begawan, housing approximately 13,000 residents. Separated into different neighbourhoods, Kampong Ayer has its own schools, libraries and mosques. Locals use speedboats to get from the land to the village in the same way we use a bus. Getting lost in the labyrinth and snapping photos of this traditional lifestyle is one of our favourite reasons to visit Brunei.

Brunei is super safe

Unlike other destinations in Southeast Asia, Brunei is probably the safest . With ultra-low crime rates (apart from the occasionally petty theft), solo travellers always feel safe in Bandar Seri Begawan at all times of the day and night. The country’s alcohol ban eliminates the drunken and loutish behaviour so common in cities around the world. While visitors still need to use their common sense, Brunei is much safer compared to its neighbours.

One of the cleanest countries in Asia

Southeast Asia suffers from the all-too-common problem with litter. Brunei is different. The Sultan and his government put a lot of effort into keeping the country clean and litter-free. Stroll through the streets and you won’t see (and smell) rubbish. Apart from the inevitable film of gunge at the edges of the Brunei River from Kampong Ayer, Bandar Seri Begawan is in an immaculate condition.

Virgin rainforests stretching towards the horizon

As Malaysian and Indonesian Borneo chopped down their rainforests, Brunei was tapping oil in the South China Sea. Flash forward to today and Brunei’s dense jungle is deforestation-free. Approximately 80% of Brunei is virgin rainforest. Most of the jungle remains in the same condition as it has for thousands of years.

Ulu Temburong National Park: The green jewel of Brunei

Ulu Temburong covers a whopping 500 square kilometres. In context, this is almost 10% of the country’s surface area. Only 1% of the virgin rainforest is open to visitors. Longboats ferry passengers in and out of the national park on tightly regulated tours. Activities include jungle trekking, canopy walks and swimming in natural pools. Scientists recently discovered the fascinating exploding ants in this national park too.

Photography galore

One of our top reasons to visit Brunei relates to the country’s serendipitous beauty. From the elegance of both Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah and Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosques to Kampong Ayer, the country bursts with photogenic scenery. Stroll the capital or head to the markets to capture the essence of Bruneian life or snap pics of the Bornean rainforest.

An affordable cultural experience

It’s no secret that the Sultan of Brunei bathes in wealth and lives a well-documented opulent lifestyle. But he also makes substantial investments into the country. As a result, many of the attractions and museums (at the time of writing in 2018) are free. Water taxis to and from Kampong Ayer typically cost B$1 ($0.66) too.

A blend of Malay, Singaporean and Indonesian food

Another one of the top reasons to visit Brunei is its food. The Sultanate’s strong cultural ties with Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia blend to create a delicious fusion of food. Restaurants in Bandar Seri Begawan sell typical Malay-style fried rice and noodles mixed with Indonesian favourites like spicy Rendang. Brunei combines the best of all regional cuisine, making it easy to find Bornean treats, fiery Indonesian food and local snacks.

Brunei welcomes tourists

And finally, tourists who visit Brunei will instantly notice the welcoming nature of local Bruneians. With a humble and dignified personality, almost everyone goes out of their way to help a foreigner. Hotels might offer airport pickups and even drive guests around the city free of charge!

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Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

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Guides & Tips

Welcome to kampong ayer: the world's largest floating village.

Architecture

The most beautiful mosques in brunei.

See & Do

25 must-visit attractions in brunei.

How to Spend 48 Hours in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

Bars & Cafes

The best coffee shops in bandar seri begawan, brunei.

How to Navigate Transport in Brunei

The most beautiful places to visit in brunei.

10 Must-Visit Attractions in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

The History of Brunei's Royal Family

Restaurants

Top restaurants in bandar seri begawan, brunei.

A Guide to Brunei's Ulu Temburong National Park

How to Navigate Transport in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

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Brunei travel blog — The fullest Brunei travel guide for first-timers

Brunei is a small country (only about 5.765 km²) but very rich and prosperous. Not as famous as Singapore or Thailand, but Brunei is known as the world’s richest Muslim kingdom, traveling to Brunei you not only visit the famous places but also have the opportunity to explore and experience life lavish of this kingdom. With a small population and huge oil revenues, so the wealth in Brunei is evident in everywhere. Especially, It is very clear in the mosques. In recent years, Brunei has always been an attractive and extremely interesting destination with many features of natural as well as culinary and cultural. Now, let’s check it out our Brunei blog (Brunei travel blog) with the fullest Brunei travel guide (Brunei guide) for a wonderful and budget trip to Brunei for the first-timers below.

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Brunei blog: When to visit Brunei?

Like other Southeast Asian countries, Brunei’s climate is divided into two seasons, the rainy season and the dry season, but this division is not really clear and it also does not affect much on your trip. From September to January every year is a humid season with average temperatures between from 24 degrees Celsius to 31 degrees Celsius. The weather is quite humid and uncomfortable, with heavy rains, so you avoid traveling to Brunei in this time. The period from April to August, the weather during this period is very pleasant, so this is the best time to visit Brunei.

In Brunei, there are two main celebrations that you should know:

Ramadan: It takes place within a month starting in mid-May, this month the Brunei people will be eat vegetarian or not eat at all during the daylight, so when traveling in this time, you should avoid eating in front of the people.

Hari Raya Aidilfitri: It takes place after Ramadan in the middle of September, pilgrims from all over the world come here to meet, greet and receive souvenirs from the Sultan and the Queen (a chocolate bar is sealed by Royal stamp or 5 Brunei dollars (BND) if is a child) on the occasion the Royal palace open only once a year, to receive good luck.

Brunei travel blog: How to get to Brunei?

According to Brunei travel experience, there are no direct flights from Vietnam, so you have to transit in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore or Malaysia and then getting to Brunei. Here is how to getting from Vietnam to Brunei short and convenient by air as follows.

From Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City you can buy tickets from airlines such as: Air Asia, Vietnam Airlines to Kuala Lumpur. Then from Kuala Lumpur you can go to Brunei in two ways:

You can buy cheap air tickets from airlines such as AirAsia for round trip Hanoi – Kuala Lumpur or Ho Chi Minh City – Kuala Lumpur. Then you continue to fly round trip Kuala Lumpur – Brunei.

When arrived at Brunei Airport you must pay the airport fee of 12 Brunei Dollar or 12 Singapore Dollar (note that the airline only accepts paper money).

• From Miri Airport in Malaysia, you buy a taxi ticket to the Long Distance Bus Station, it takes 26 Ringgit (about $6.4) per trip.
• Then from the bus station you buy tickets to Brunei of PHLS Express company for 25 Ringgit (about $6.11). There are only 2 trips for a day at 7am and 15:45pm so you should keep in mind.
• In the opposite direction at the bus station of Bandar (Brunei), only PHLS Express company sells tickets from Brunei to Miri (Malaysia) for 18 Brunei Dollar or 18 Singapore Dollar.

Note: Israeli citizens may be banned enter Brunei. Southeast Asia countries has no need VISA.

Getting from Brunei Airport to the city center

In Brunei there is only one main bus station in the center of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan Bus Station, so all arrivals / departures are pass this station. There is a very large details map of all bus routes in Brunei. If you a backpack visitor to Brunei remember get here to refer to it first!

There are 4 easiest bus routes from the airport to the city center (and back) are 23, 24, 34 and 38, blue cars. Buses in Brunei are quite old but run smoothly and safely. Ticket prices for all route or a half route are B$1 (1 Brunei Dollar), rno matter which bus route. That means you just have to pay B$1 and you want to get down at any place, at any time.

Brunei blog: How to getting around Brunei?

The main means of transport in Brunei are buses, cars and taxis. Each type of vehicle has its own advantages. If you want to go around to exploring the capital, you should take the bus, because here the bus system is very cheap, safe and convenient. But if you want to go deep in inner of the country, you must rent a car or take a train. As follows:

Taxi: Most of the Brunei people have their own cars so there are only about 50 taxis in the country. If you want to take a taxi from the airport to the city center it will take about 20 minutes at a cost of 25 – 30 Brunei Dollar. But you will be wait a long time.

Bus: The special feature of the Brunei bus has no waiting point, you stand at the edge of the road for 5 to 10 minutes, you can tell the driver about your destination. The fare for one bus trip is 1 Dollar Brunei.

Bus routes to distant locations

• Brunei International Airport: Bus No.23, 24, 34, 35, 36, 38
• Kuala Lurah: Bus No.42, 44
• Kuala Belait/Tutong District (pass the Proposed Rimba Terminal): Bus No.22, 57
• Kianggeh Jetty: Bus No.39
• Labuan/Kg Menumbok (Kota Kinabalu) pass Muara Passenger/Car Ferry Terminal: Bus No.33, 37, 38, 39

Bus routes to places of interest

• Brunei Royal Regalia Museum: All bus routes
• Jame Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque: Bus No.01, 20, 22
• Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque: All bus routes
• Tasek Lama Recreational Park: Bus No.01
• Museums of Brunei: All bus routes
• Jerudong Park: Bus No.55

Brunei travel blog: Where to stay in Brunei?

Most hotels in Brunei are very expensive. However, there are many cheap hotels in Brunei, but if you have a lot of money you can stay in more upscale hotels. The rental price is an average of $55 per night/per room. Here are some budget hotels you can refer to:

• Jubilee Hotel (2 star standard). Address: Jubilee Plaza, Jalan Kampong Kianggeh, BS 8111 Bandar Seri Begawan. Room rates from $40/night.
• The Brunei Hotel (3 star standard). Address: 95, Jalan Pemancha, BS8811 Bandar Seri Begawan.
• Badiah Hotel : (3 star standard). Address: Mile 1 1/4, Jalan Tutong , Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan. Room rates from $55/night.
• Qing Yun Resthouse Sdn Bhd (1 star standard): Address: No 16 1st floor ,block I ,Abdul Razak complex,jalan Gadong BE3519,Brunei Darussalam. Room rates from $30/night.
• Palm Garden Hotel Brunei (3 star standard). Address: Lot 45328, Simpang 88, Kampong Kiulap, BE1518 BSB. Room rates from $40/night.
• Mulia Hotel (4 star standard). Address: EDR No. BD 30040 Lot No 31954, Kg Anggerek Desa, Mukim Barakas, Brunei-Muara, Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan, agoda.

If you have more money then the following are high-end (luxury) hotels in Brunei with furniture, professional services, facilities, luxury equipment, modern that you refer to:

• The Rizqun International Hotel : Address: Abdul Razak Complex, Gadong, Gadong, Bandar Seri Begawan, 5 star standard and room rates from $121.66/night.
• The Empire Hotel and Country Club : Address: Jerudong Negara BG 3122, Jerudong, Bandar Seri Begawan, 5 star standard and room rates from $194.33/night.
• OSP Puni Indah Luxury Residence : Address: Jalan Ong Sum Ping, Kianggeh, Bandar Seri Begawan with, 4 star standard and room rate from $183.21/night.

However, there is a very interesting way to explore the culture and learn about the customs and habits of the people of Brunei is to apply for stay in homestay. The people of Brunei are very hospitable and willing to help others. You just login into the Couchsurfing Social Networking site to apply for homestay.

Guesthouses

If there are no conditions to stay in the hotel you can rent a cheap guesthouse for about 10 Brunei dollars. Below is a list of some popular budget guesthouses you can refer to:

• Pusat Belia (Youth Center Hostel) . Address: Simpang 336-17, Jalan Kebandasan, Bandar Seri Begawan.
• Harmoni Ria Guesthouse . Address: 21 Jalan Medewa, Km 7, Jalan Tutong, Bandar Seri Begawan.

You can find, check rates, availability & booking for other hotels in Brunei on Agoda.com or Booking.com .

Brunei blog: Best places to visit and top things to do in Brunei

Istana nurul iman – sultan’s palace.

In Arabic the Istana Nurul Iman means “Palace of the Light of the Saints”. This is the largest and richest palace in the world. The Royal Palace of Brunei is located on a high hill next to the lower of Brunei River. The palace’s door towards Bandar Seri Begawan capital. This is the main residence of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah and his royal family.

With a total construction cost of about $ 1.4 billion, when visiting the Royal Palace, visitors will admire the unique Islamic architecture with extremely expensive luxury furniture. The palace is decorated by high-end furniture, luxuriously decorated with gold and silver materials, diamonds and gems, etc. Inside, there are a throne, tables and chairs for guests, paintings, bowls, glasses, all made from gold. Some lucky visitors have the opportunity to enter the palace of gold, will feel like to sink into the world of the King’s fairy and do not want to come out realistic.

Royal Palace is a must visit place in Brunei. Normally, the palace is not open to the public, except for the annual Hari Raya Aidilfitri festival, where visitors visit the Sultan to be blessed and receive the presents.

Kampong Ayer Water Village

As a village with a history of more than 600 years, there are still big nose monkeys living in simple houses on the peaceful river. In the village there are schools, hospitals, administrative offices … To get here you have to go by wooden boat or also called water taxi. But the price is not cheap, about $20- $40 for a tour around the river. Another trip from shore to floating village cost about $1- $2.

Unlike the outside appearance of the village, looks like “slums”, the inside space of the village is very … good, every home is full of modern facilities. Each house in Kampong Ayer is linked by a Brunei-style road system made of special wood on the island of Borneo.

The rustic life but also very romantic with wide yards and common paths are planted a lot of flowers and bonsai. The floating villagers are very focused decoration for their home, this is where you can not miss when traveling to Brunei.

Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Brunei is dubbed the kingdom of the mosques. With an area of only 6,000 square kilometers and a population of nearly 400,000 people, but Brunei has over 100 mosques. The devotion of the people of Brunei is a great source of inspiration for creating spectacular, beautiful mosques. Among them, the Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque in Brunei is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia with the stunning and magical of five tons of gold plated all over the mosque.

All the columns, the stairs are made of marble, the carpets in the mosque are imported from Arabia, the tiles paved wall are imported from Europe and the sparkling chandeliers are made of gold and diamonds are very brilliant.

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque

Considered as Asia’s largest mosque at this time and also the first in Brunei, with a dome plated with 5 tons of pure gold. Interior and exterior are also used luxury materials imported from many countries in the world.

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Best Ecotourism Spots in Brunei

Explore Brunei Darussalam Guides

Published on July 1, 2021

Over the past few years, Brunei has quickly developed a reputation as a center of ecotourism. With 70% of the country’s land being pristine rainforests with lots of biodiversity that has been conserved, there are a lot of opportunities where you can immerse yourself in the wilderness. Interact with the locals and learn more about their long-term preservation efforts at the Sumbiling Eco Village. Learn more about sustainable farming and gardening at Eco Ponies Garden. Explore undisturbed jungles and wildlife at Sungai Liang Forest Recreational Park. With many untouched natural spots to explore and opportunities to learn about nature preservation, here are some of the best areas in Brunei to visit on your next ecotourism adventure.

Sumbiling Eco Village

Situated in the lush rainforest in Temburong, Sumbiling Eco Village is the ideal spot for travelers longing to connect with nature and experience the traditions and delectable cuisines of the local Iban culture. The locals over the years have capitalized on long-term preservation efforts, using the rainforest in a sustainable way to minimize the impacts of ecological effects on the environment. The community also loves to talk and share their knowledge of the rainforest with visitors.

Whether you choose to spend your day discovering nearby flora and fauna or floating downriver on a tire tube, or learning handicrafts such as weaving and rock painting, the Sumbiling Eco Village promises rejuvenating, engaging, and one-of-a-kind experiences.

Freme Rainforest Lodge

Experience all that Freme Rainforest Lodge has to offer, from one adventure to the next. Freme Rainforest Lodge is known for its array of great activities, including obstacle courses filled with logs, swings, climbs, zip lines across the river, and a long suspension bridge to admire the forest and listen to the harmonious melodies of nature. With the lodge situated outside of Ulu Temburong National Park , you can experience the jungle and the local people’s lifestyles that you pass by. 

Eco Ponies Garden

In Lamunin sits a quaint garden where visitors can stop by for a rest to enjoy farm-to-table meals. In 2015, Eco Ponies Garden opened as a community garden that has since become famous for its ecotourism and sustainable farming. While taking a tour of the garden, you can learn about the jungle and how to forage, cook, and farm. You’ll also learn other aspects of organic gardening, like the benefits of recycling kitchen scraps and composting. Whether you stay in one of the cottages or have a large group lunch with local ingredients, you’re sure to have a fantastic ecotourism experience here.

Ulu Temburong National Park

Also known as the “Green Jewel of Brunei,” Ulu Temburong National Park is one of the most popular untouched areas in Brunei. Located in its own private haven in the Temburong district of Brunei, visitors can connect with nature by taking a boat down the Temburong River, admire breathtaking views, and take in the flora and fauna of the pristine rainforests.

With about 40% of the Temburong area being preserved, the park is home to Proboscis monkeys and thousands of unique species of plants and animals. There are lowland forests, a jungle rainforest, and a mountain forest, making Ulu Temburong one of the most diverse ecosystems. Visitors can stay in traditional Borneo longhouses maintained by the locals.

Kampong Ayer

Also known as the “Venice of the East,” Kampong Ayer is the world’s largest water village. With homes being man-made and connected with wooden bridges and waterways, the community of over 30,000 inhabitants is intertwined with nature. The self-contained community is another symbol of Brunei’s efforts of self-preservation. Visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, which features the village’s history that highlights their lifestyles. The best way to experience the locals’ daily lives is by taking a river cruise and enjoying the views of the Brunei River.

Sungai Liang Forest Recreational Park

With 14 hectares of undisturbed forest and one of the least populated areas in Brunei, the Sungai Liang Forest Recreational Park is an arboretum reserve. Being part of the Andulau Forest Reserve, the park is full of ancient teak trees and is also a mixed dipterocarp forest. A portion of the jungle has been turned into a park with nature trails and a canopy walkway in the treetops. There are many animals you can see, including plantain squirrels, Borneo gibbons, and flying lemurs.

Luagan Lalak Recreational Park

The Labi Forest Reserve is another natural reserve where you can experience breathtaking views and see various wildlife. Within the reserve is Luagan Lalak Recreational Park , a freshwater swamp that boasts a lot of lush greenery. You can stroll along the wooden walkways and immerse yourself in the nature surrounding the lake. From the park, you can make your way to the traditional Mendaram Longhouses and visit the Iban tribe that resides in the forest reserve.

With lots of efforts by the locals to preserve the jungles and forests in Brunei, it’s no wonder why Brunei’s natural gems have been becoming popular over the past few years. From learning about preservation methods from the locals to seeing natural beauties, you’ll have an enlightening ecotourism experience in Brunei.

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