travel through india by train

The Man in Seat 61

A beginner's guide to

Train travel in india.

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The best way to see India is at ground level on the incredible Indian railway system, not from 35,000 feet.  Experience the bustle of Indian railway stations and a comfortable journey on an Indian express train with the tea seller's cry of Chai, chai, garam chai wafting down the aisle.  Forget media images of crowded local trains with people sitting on the roof.  In an AC Chair Car or AC1 or AC2 sleeper on an express, all seats & berths are reserved and it’s safe, civilised, inexpensive & comfortable.  Even journeys such as Mumbai to Delhi or Delhi to Jaisalmer can be covered time-effectively by overnight sleeper, centre to centre, saving a hotel bill too.  Book Indian train tickets online at 12go.asia

Useful country information

Train routes & maps.

India's passenger rail network is the third biggest in the world after Russia and China, with 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations.  In terms of passenger kilometres, it's the biggest in the world.  Indian Railways are the world's biggest employer, with over 1.5 million staff.

The trains in India go almost everywhere, and it's generally safe to assume that you can travel between any two Indian cities or major towns by train, the length and breadth of the country.

Most of India's rail network is broad gauge with rails 5' 6" apart, wider than standard gauge (4' 8½") used in Europe, allowing Indian trains to be wider than European trains.  Parts of the country such as Rajasthan used to be served by an extensive metre-gauge network, but most metre-gauge routes have now been converted to broad gauge.  A few hill railway such as Kalka-Simla and New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling use narrow gauge, either 2' or 2' 6".

For an Indian railways route map see surveyofindia.gov.in/files/Railway map_Eng_C.jpg (please let me know if this stops working).

Also try www.mapsofindia.com/maps/india/india-railway-map.htm , or indiarailinfo.com/atlas .

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How to check train times & fares

It can be easiest to check train schedules & fares for the main tourist routes at agency website 12go.asia , this can also sell you a ticket, hassle-free.

For train times & fares for any journey in India use www.indianrail.gov.in .

This is one of the various official Indian Railways websites, an amazing site but a little bewildering, not helped by there being another official site, www.indianrailways.gov.in .  It's a good training course for your travels in India.

To check train times, look for Reserved Train Between Stations at the top of their home page.

To check fares, first find a train and note the train number, then click Fare enquiry at the top of their home page.

To check availability over various dates, first find a train and note the train number, then click Seat availability at the top of their home page.

Or download an app for your phone.  There are many apps to choose from, the official IRCTC apps seem unavailable outside India so try these 3rd-party apps for checking Indian train times on the go.  They're ad-heavy, but they work, I find Ixigo the best.

Indian Rail IRCTC for iPhone or Indian Rail IRCTC for Android .

Ixigo for iPhone or Ixigo for Android .

You can also buy the famous Trains at a Glance timetable booklet for 100 rupees at any station bookstall (it makes a great souvenir), or click here to download the pages you need for free .  This shows times in printed form for most major stations on all the main routes.

Tips for checking Indian train times

Which station in which city .

Kashmir originally had no rail connection, but a line to Srinagar and beyond has now been completed with more under construction.  The line heads through tough terrain, and features the highest railway bridge in the world.  Srinagar's station code is SINA (not to be confused with another smaller Srinagar in Rajasthan with station code SNAR).

Khajuraho (a much-visited temple complex) now has a station, station code KURJ.  There's a daily overnight train called the Kurukshetra-Khajuraho Express leaving New Delhi station at 18:20, picking up at Agra Cantonment around 21:35 and arriving in Khajuraho at 08:00 next morning.  It  returns from Khajuraho at 18:35 arriving New Delhi at 08:45.

Example train times

Example fares from delhi.

£1 = 105 Rupees, €1 = 90 Rupees, $1 = 82 Rupees.

Shatabdi Express = Premier daytime train, special fare payable, meals included.

Rajdhani Express = Premier overnight train, special fare payable, meals included.

Child fares on Indian trains since April 2016:   Children aged 0 to 4 inclusive travel free.  Children aged 5 to 11 inclusive travel at half fare if they do not take up a reserved seat or berth, but as from April 2016 they must pay the adult fare if they travel with their own reserved seat or berth.  I do not recommend that any child aged 5 to 11 travels without their own seat or berth in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair car or Sleeper Class, so this effectively means you must now pay the adult fare for children aged 5 and over.  Children aged 12 and over pay the adult fare in all cases.

Classes explained

Which class to choose.

Above, a typical long-distance express or mail train with older carriages (not a premier Rajdhani or Duronto express).  You can just make out 3 cars in the centre of the train with different windows.  These are the AC cars, perhaps one AC1, one AC2 & one AC3 car.  The rest of the train is Sleeper class.  Courtesy of Albert Höchst.

Types of train

Which train to choose.

Executive Chair (EC) class on a Vande Bharat Express.  These are India's most modern trains, capable of 160 km/h (100 mph) & used at up to 130 km/h (80 mph).  See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vande_Bharat_Express .  Photos courtesy of Nonstop Eurotrip , see video of Varanasi-Delhi Vande Bharat Express .

AVL, CNF, RAC & Waitlist

You need a reservation to travel on Indian long-distance trains, you can't just turn up and hop on.  Reservations are fully computerised using the world's largest computer reservation system.  Trains get fully-booked weeks in advance, so buy tickets as far ahead as possible.

When do bookings open?

Bookings for most Indian long-distance trains currently open 120 days before departure.

It was 60 days until 2008, when it was experimentally extended to 90 days, then it was experimentally extended even further to 120 days in 2012, reduced again to 60 days in 2013 to make ticket 'scalping' by agencies harder, but restored to 120 days as from 1 April 2015. 

Some short-distance inter-city trains may open for bookings less than this, for example Delhi-Kalka & Kalka-Simla may open only 30 days or in some cases just 15 days ahead.

The remarkable Indian Railways system

Indian Railways have a unique system with 4 possible statuses for seats/berths/bookings:

AVL = Available , these are seats or berths that are unsold and available for booking.

CNF = Confirmed .  When you book an available seat or berth, your PNR status (Personal Name Record) becomes CNF, confirmed.  You're safely booked on the train with a specific seat or berth.

RAC = Reservation Against Cancellation .  When all the seats or berths on a train in a given class have been sold, a certain number of tickets in that class are sold as Reservation Against Cancellation, or RAC.

WL = Waitlist .  When all the RAC places have been sold, further prospective passengers can buy Waitlist (WL) tickets.

If you go to www.indianrail.gov.in & click Seat availability you can see how many seats remain available in each class on a given train.

For example, today is 26 January, let's say I want to go from Delhi to Kolkata on the best train, the overnight Howrah Rajdhani in AC 2-tier. Tomorrow's train is fully-booked in AC2 and shown as NOT AVAILABLE.  I can buy Waitlisted tickets for this train on 28 and 29 January.  I can buy RAC tickets on any day between 30 January & 5 February and if I buy those I can definitely board the train and travel with (in practice) maybe a 90% chance of ending up with a berth to myself.  The first day on which AC 2-tier is shown as AVL so I can buy a ticket and instantly get a confirmed berth is 6 February.  The Foreign Tourist quota would help me here, there are 7 or 8 FT quota places shown as AVL every day from 27 January onwards, but I'll explain that in the quotas section .

Reservation Against Cancellation (RAC)

With an RAC ticket, you're allowed to board the train and travel.  Whatever happens, you know you're safely booked on that train.  So if you're offered an RAC ticket you should take it, even though you won't have a specific seat or berth number at this stage.

In the vast majority of cases, one of the confirmed passengers will cancel or unsold tickets will be left in one of the more obscure quotas on departure day and you'll be promoted from RAC to CNF with a confirmed seat or berth on the train.

Your name will then be shown against a specific seat or berth number on the reservation list pinned on the notice board at the boarding station on the day of travel when the train is charted , or you can check your PNR (Personal Name Record) status online .  A waitlisted passenger will be promoted from WL to RAC in your place.

In the unlikely event that nobody cancels, you'll be given a place to sit (but not a berth) in a carriage of the class you've booked.  For example, two RAC passengers might be given seats on a bunk that would normally be for one person.  In most cases, at least one of the confirmed passengers will fail to show up for the train and the on-board staff will allocate their berth to the passenger holding ticket RAC1.  The passenger holding ticket RAC2 will then be left with a berth to themselves, solving two RAC passengers' problems!  In the worst case scenario, if there were no no-shows the RAC passengers would have to sit up all night or take turns using the berth to snooze, but in practice this seldom happens.  Like I said, if an RAC place is available, you should take it.

A downside of buying RAC tickets as a couple, family or small group is that you might be split up, because you get the places freed up when people cancel or which are left when tickets remain unsold in special quotas.  But there's usually only one or two AC2 or AC3 cars on a given train, so in those classes you probably won't be far apart.

Incidentally, RAC tickets exist in AC2, AC3 & SL, but not in AC1, EC, CC or FC.  In AC1, EC, CC & FC, passengers are always CNF or WL.

Waitlist (WL)

With a WL ticket you cannot travel, unless you are promoted to RAC or CNF before departure.

Each WL ticket has two numbers at any given moment in time, for example WL10/WL3.

The first number is the ticket's original Waitlist number.  In this example, WL10 means you bought the Number 10 Waitlist ticket allocated to this train, 10th in the queue when the train opened for booking.  This number won't change, even if you are promoted to a confirmed place (CNF), your ticket will always be WL10 and shown as such on the reservation list.

The second number is your current position in the queue, this number will reduce as people cancel.  On websites & apps that show only one WL number rather than two, this is the number it shows.  In this example WL10/WL3 means that 7 people have already cancelled and you are now 3rd in line for promotion to RAC.  If 3 more people cancel, you'll be promoted to RAC and can travel.

If more people cancel you may even be promoted to CNF with a confirmed seat or berth.  With a low-numbered WL ticket you've a good chance of this happening.  For example, one traveller reports having Waitlisted places between WL1 and WL10 on numerous trips, and always successfully got promoted to CNF with a confirmed place on the train, usually in the 24 hours before departure as that's when all the movement takes place from tickets in unsold quotas being used to reduce the number of WL & RAC passengers.

Keep checking your PNR status online .  Even if you're only promoted to RAC, you can at least travel.  If the train is charted and you're still only Waitlisted, then you can't travel and your fare will automatically be refunded, less a minor clerkage fee.

How likely is a given WL ticket to be confirmed?

There are now several websites that claim to predict how likely it is that a given WL ticket will be confirmed and allow you on the train, based on historical data.  Try entering your PNR into trainman.in , or use it to see what the current availability of a given train is, and how likely it is that if you bought WL tickets they'd be confirmed by departure.

The Vikalp scheme (ATAS)

There's yet another process to help Waitlisted passengers.  When you buy a WL ticket, you may be asked if you want to opt in to the Vikalp scheme, also known as Alternate Train Accommodation Scheme or ATAS.  Vikalp is Hindi for option .

If you tick the Vikalp box, you're offered a selection of possible alternative trains and you can choose which of these you'd be willing to take if you can't get a berth on the train you've booked.  Then, if you are still Waitlisted (WL) when your original train is charted (so you can't travel on it), and if space is available in the same class on one of your chosen alternative trains, you'll be given a confirmed (CNF) berth on that instead.

An alternative train is one between the same or similar origin & destination leaving between 30 minutes & 72 hours after your original choice of train.  For example, a train leaving from Old Delhi or Delhi H.Nizamudin might be considered alternatives to a train from New Delhi.

If there are several of you on one PNR, either all of you will be given places on an alternative train or none of you will, so don't worry, you won't be split up.  However, once you opt in to Vikalp, you can't opt out again.  And if you are transferred to a CNF place on an alternative train and decide you don't want it, you can cancel but only in line with the terms & conditions of a CNF place, which means a partial refund less the CNF cancellation fees (as an unsuccessful Waitlisted passenger on your original train you'd normally have been refunded almost all of your money).

Charting is the process of drawing up the final passenger list for each carriage of a given train, allocating names to berths.  The list is posted on the reservations notice board at stations or you can check your PNR status online .

During this process, any unsold tickets in quotas such as handicapped, military or parliamentary are released, freeing up places so RAC passengers can be moved up to Confirmed (CNF) and WL passengers to RAC or CNF.  So if you have a WL ticket and haven't already been promoted to RAC or CNF as passengers cancel, this is when you discover whether or not you're on the train.

It's also at this point that specific berth numbers are allocated to AC1 sleeper passengers, which is why you can't choose between an AC1 2-berth coupé and an AC1 4-berth compartment when you book.

Charting for trains leaving their origin station between 12:00 & 23:00 takes place around 4 hours before departure from that station.

Charting for trains leaving their origin between 23:00 & 12:00 takes place 19:00-21:00 Monday-Saturday or 13:00-15:00 Sundays & holidays.

How to check your current status

You can confirm your current PNR (Personal Name Record) status as WL, RAC or CNF at www.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html or using one of the apps suggested above , by entering the PNR number shown on your ticket.

Remember that things can change even on the day of departure, most movement happens shortly before departure, when the train is charted.

When you buy a ticket, it comes from a specific quota.  A quota is simply an allocation of tickets for a particular type of traveller such as  senior, handicapped, military or government, on each train in each class.  By default, tickets come from the General quota.

General (GN) quota

Remote location (rl) & pooled (pq) quotas, handicapped, senior & ladies quotas.

The Senior quota is only for Indian seniors so don't use this if you're not Indian.

The Ladies quota only exists in Sleeper class & AC3, it gets you berths in one small bay reserved for women, it's hardly worth bothering with.

The Lower Berth quota is for anyone with mobility issues who can't use the ladder to the upper berths, so absolutely needs a lower. 

When a train is charted and the final reservation list is compiled, any unsold seats or berths in these quotas will be freed up used to reduce the RAC/Waitlist, promoting RAC passengers to CNF and WL passengers to RAC and (once all RAC passengers are confirmed) CNF.

Foreign Tourist (FT) quota

Many important trains have a small Foreign Tourist (FT) quota of seats or berths available only to foreign tourists.  The purpose of the FT quota is to allow foreign tourists to book trains at short notice notice when the General quota is fully-booked.

It's not a foolproof way to travel around India without pre-booking:  There's an FT quota on only 200 trains a day out of some 9,000 trains, and the quota might be just 2 places, seldom more than 12, in one or two specific classes, typically AC1 & AC2 or CC.  So even using the FT quota, you may have to wait a day or so before there is a berth available to your chosen destination in your chosen class.

For example, today is 25 January, the earliest date for which AC2 tickets available from the General quota on the Delhi-Varanasi Swatantrtwa Express is 11 February. But if I look at the Foreign Tourist quota, although there are no tickets today, there are two tickets available in AC2 tomorrow, and on each of the following few days.

If you buy an FT quota ticket at a ticket office or tourist reservation centre, you must pay in US Dollars, pounds sterling, or rupees backed by an exchange certificate proving they've come from a bank or bureau de change in exchange for foreign currency.  Rupees backed by an ATM receipt and foreign bank card are usually sufficient.  You can now book tickets from the Foreign Tourist quota when booking online .

Let's be clear, as a foreign tourist, you don't have to book from the FT quota.  Anyone of any nationality can book from the General quota whenever it's available.  And FT tickets are a little more expensive than tickets from the General quota, too.

Indeed, if there are still seats available in the General quota when you book, you shouldn't use the FT quota .  Because later on when the train is fully-booked, some other overseas visitors may urgently need those precious few FT places, desperate to get a train back to Delhi for their flight home.  If you used up all the FT places weeks ahead when you didn't need to, those travellers may be stranded!

Tatkal (TQ & PT) quotas

To allow travel at short notice on trains that are often fully-booked weeks before departure, Indian Railways introduced a system called Tatkal (Hindi for immediate ).  A number of tickets on key trains are held back and released at 10:00 one day before departure (originally 72 hours before departure, reduced to 2 days back in 2009 and just 1 day in 2011).  They are sold with a Tatkal fee of 10% of the fare in 2nd class or 30% in all other classes.  There are in fact two Tatkal quotas, regular Tatkal (TQ quota) with fixed fares, and Premium Tatkal (PT quota) with variable fares that increase with demand.  Tatkal places can also be booked online .  If there are seats available in the Foreign Tourist quota then the Tatkal quota may be irrelevant for you, if not, the Tatkal system can be useful.

How to buy tickets online

Indian trains often get fully-booked weeks in advance as demand usually exceeds supply.  So if you have a fixed itinerary and limited time you should buy tickets in advance before you get to India.

I recommend ticketing agency 12go.asia as option 1 for good reason:  It's hassle-free, even though it only does the principle trains on the routes usually requested by visitors.  It only sells confirmed tickets, it doesn't sell RAC or WL places.  It happily accepts overseas credit cards.

However, for complete access to all routes, trains, ticket types & quotas including Waitlisted & RAC , you must face the challenge of registering with the official Indian Railways booking website irctc.co.in, which is option 2.  I provide detailed instructions below.  Be warned, the process may drive you nuts.  Some people give up, others manage it in the end, but once registered you can book anything.

Option 1, buy at 12go.asia

I recommend ticketing agency 12go.asia as the quickest & easiest way to buy tickets for the principal trains and routes used by tourists, it makes booking trains as easy as booking flights.

You can check prices & availability online, pay with an international credit card and get the same e-ticket you'd get if you booked directly with irctc.co.in, but without the frustration of having to create an account and register with irctc.co.in.

Booking opens 120 days ahead , although some short-distance inter-city trains have a shorter booking horizon.  You can't buy tickets before reservations open.  Indian trains get fully booked weeks ahead, so book as far ahead as you can to be sure of a place.

How it works

12go.asia 's system shows fares & availability in real time, taken from IRCTC's system.  You select your train & class and click to buy.  Tickets are then manually secured by 12go staff using IRCTC's business-to-business booking system.

You can choose to see prices & pay in Indian Rupees, USD, GBP, Euros & several other currencies.

Limitations

12go.asia sells tickets for all the major routes of interest to visitors, but not between every possible station.  For that you need irctc.co.in.

Option 2, buy at www.irctc.co.in

You can buy train tickets direct from Indian Railways at the IRCTC website www.irctc.co.in .

Registering to use www.irctc.co.in is a time-consuming and frustrating process, but once registered you'll have access to all routes, trains, classes & ticket types.

Irctc.co.in has accepted overseas (non-Indian) credit cards since 2016, although it occasionally goes through periods when international cards don't seem to be accepted, just to keep everyone on their toes.  You must select the payment option which mentions International cards powered by PayU at the payment stage.

How to register for an IRCTC account

Go to www.irctc.co.in and click REGISTER top right.

Now enter the details to create an account.

Choose a username , some trial and error may be needed.

Enter your mobile phone number - your home country's international dialling code goes in the box marked ISD (this box says '91' until you have changed India to your own country in the box above).  The ISD for the UK is '44'.  Then enter your mobile phone number without any leading '0'.

Pin code means postcode .  Use 123456 as it won't accept UK-style postcodes.  Under Post Office , just enter your city & phone number again.

Payment problems paying the SMS verification fee

Just after I test-registered they imposed a fee for sending the OTP to a non-Indian mobile.  A few people have had credit card acceptance problems in paying this fee, but others find paying the fee works fine.  Again, I don't know why, but it could be problems with your own bank detecting and blocking a 'suspicious'  foreign transaction.  Give them a call!

How to buy tickets at www.irctc.co.in

When you click to see availability on a particular train, you will see places shown as AVL , RAC or WL , see the explanation of Reservation Against Cancellation & Waitlisting here .

AVL = Available , this means there are tickets available for confirmed seats or berths on that train. 

RAC = Reservation Against Cancellation , this means that the train is theoretically full, but Reservation Against Cancellation tickets are available for that train which allow you to board and be allocated a berth by the conductor.  So if you only see RAC tickets available, my advice is to go ahead and book, you'll still be able to travel on that train.

Tip:  Download the IRCTC app for your phone.   Download the IRCTC Rail Connect app for iPhone (if it's available in your region, it may not be) or IRCTC Rail Connect app for Android onto your phone.  You'll probably find you can't buy tickets with overseas credit cards using the app, but tickets bought online at the IRCTC website will show up in the app and can be shown to the conductor.  You can check train times, and see the current status of your booking if you are waitlisted or RAC.  Feedback appreciated .  I recommend some other apps that are available outside India in the travel tips section .

Option 3, Cleartrip.com, Makemytrip.com , Ixigo.com

How to buy tickets at the station.

The main stations in big cities and tourist centres such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi have an International Tourist Bureau where foreign travellers can book trains away from the crowds and queues at the normal booking office.  There is also a 24-hour rail booking office at Delhi International Airport.

For a list of stations with an International Tourist Bureau & opening times, see www.indianrail.gov.in , select Information then International Tourist .

New Delhi International Tourist Bureau ( temporarily closed )

U pdate 2024:   The New Delhi International Tourist Bureau remains temporarily closed due to the pandemic and low numbers of tourists.  A notice directs tourists to the international tourist counter at the Rail Reservation Centre 300m down the road, see the section below .

When open, the International Tourist Bureau at New Delhi railway station makes it easy for foreign visitors to buy tickets.  They could often sell you places out of the tourist quota, even when a train is fully-booked for Indian passengers.  Before the pandemic, it was normally open 06:00-23:00 every day, it's now temporarily closed.

How to find it

Enter New Delhi main station entrance on the Paharganj side (shown in the photo below left), veer slightly to the left and go up one flight of stairs to find yourself outside the International Tourist Bureau, as shown in the photo below right.  It's above platform 1.  If it doesn't look like the photo below, it isn't the real International tourist office.

New Delhi international tourist counter

Mumbai csmt, formerly bombay victoria terminus.

A station to rival London's St Pancras, Mumbai CSMT is an attraction in its own right.  Completed in 1887, its full title is Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or (officially) Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, station code CSMT .  Known as Bombay Victoria Terminus until 1996 and still known as 'VT' by many, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chhatrapati_Shivaji_Terminus .

Foreign Tourist Counter:   At Mumbai CSMT you can easily buy tickets from the foreign tourist quota at the Foreign Tourist counter, counter 4 downstairs in the Reservation Centre at CSMT.  It moved from counter 20 upstairs in 2018, please let me know if it changes again.

Tips for train travel in India

Checking your reservation.

The reservation system is very efficient and the days of finding your reserved berth already occupied by several passengers are long gone.  Your train, coach & berth number will be printed on your ticket - unless you're travelling in AC1 in which case the reservation list with your allocated berth numbers is only compiled a 2-4 hours before departure.

Reservation lists for each class in each long-distance train are posted on the notice board at each station about two hours before departure, showing the name, age and sex of each passenger reserved in each berth in each coach.  The age and sex help the ticket inspector identify that the right passenger is in the right berth.  A reservation list for each coach used to be pasted next to the entrance door on the train itself, but this is no longer done.

If you need to check your reservation, you can do so on your phone or laptop by entering your PNR (= booking reference) a PNR status-checking website such as www.railyatri.in/pnr-status or etrain.info/in , or using one of the Indian railways apps.

Download an app

I recommend downloading an app for your phone.  There are a bewildering number to choose from, some official, some 3rd party.  The official IRCTC apps seem unavailable outside India, so try these:

Indian Rail IRCTC for iPhone or Ixigo for iPhone .

Indian Rail IRCTC for Android or Ixigo for Android .

With these you can:

Check train schedules between any two stations.

Check a train's schedule at each of its calling points.  It also shows the train formation and carriage numbering to help you find your seat or berth.

Check your PNR status to see whether a Waitlisted ticket has become RAC or Confirmed.

Check real-time train running to see if your train is on time.

Check the platform for your train using the Live Station Info button, so you won't have to rely on the station departure displays to find your train.

Set a destination alarm to warn you a certain number of kilometres before your destination.

Luggage on Indian trains

Luggage is not a problem on Indian trains, you take your bags with you onto the train and place them on the overhead racks or underneath the lower berths.

The free luggage allowance is generous:  You can take to 70 Kg in AC1, 50 Kg in AC2, 40 Kg in AC3, AC Chair class or Sleeper class, 35 Kg in 2nd class seats.  Most western travellers are unlikely to exceed that, but if you really need to, you can pay an excess luggage fee and take up to 150 Kg in AC1 or 100 Kg in AC2.  However, the maximum is 40 Kg in AC3 or AC Chair class.

Theft of luggage is rare, but for peace of mind take along a bicycle lock or medium-sized padlock to secure your bags.  In the sleeping-cars, there are wire hoops hanging down underneath the seats to which you can padlock your luggage while you sleep.

Carriage numbers

The carriage numbers shown on tickets, on reservation lists and on the side of each coach consist of a letter and a number, for example H1, A1, A2, B1, B2, S1, S2, S3 and so on.  The letter shows the class of accommodation in that car.

A = air-con 2-tier (2A).

B = air-con 3-tier (3A).

AB = composite coach, half air-con 2-tier, half air-con 3-tier.

C = air-con chair car (CC).

D = non-air-con 2nd class reserved (@S).

E = executive chair class (EC).

G & J are used for AC 3-tier & Air-conditioned Chair class on Garib Rath trains.

H = air-conditioned 1st class (1A).

HA = composite coach, half AC1, half AC2.

S = sleeper class (SL).

There's typically just one air-con 1st class sleeper on a given train, so that's usually numbered H1.  If there were two air-con 2-tier cars on a train, those cars would be numbers A1 & A2.  So if you booked an AC2 ticket you'd expect to be given a car number 'A1' or 'A2', if you booked AC1 you'd expect to be in car H1 or HA1.

Food and drink on Indian trains

There are no restaurant or buffet cars on Indian Railways, but on long distance trains an attendant will appear in your coach and ask you if you would like to order food.  He will note down your order (usually a choice of 'veg' or 'non-veg') on a bit of paper.  An hour or so later he will reappear with some rice and curry in small foil containers from the kitchen car.  It is not expensive - you can reckon on £2-£3 per meal.  Attendants also regularly pass down each car selling soft drinks, snacks, or excellent hot sweet Indian tea (garam chai) for a few rupees.  On the premier Rajdhani Express trains (linking Delhi with Mumbai, Kolkata, etc.) and the premier daytime Shatabdi Express trains (linking Delhi with Jaipur and Agra, etc.), food is included in the fare, served at your seat.

Pre-order your food from a restaurant of your choice.   Alternatively, there are now several Indian websites that allow you to pre-book food to be delivered to your seat on the train from various vendors along the way.  If you have a confirmed train booking you can go to railrestro.com , enter your PNR, select a vendor you like the sound of who is located at a station where your train calls at a suitable time, and select specific items from their menu to be delivered to you on board the train at that station - reports so far have been very positive, but feedback is always appreciated !

Cleanliness, toilets & crowding

The efficient reservation system means that you can safely forget any pictures you've seen of overcrowded Indian trains with people on the roof or hanging on the side.  These these photos show suburban or local trains, or unreserved 2nd class on long-distance ones.  On fast long-distance trains in AC1, AC2, AC3, or AC Chair Class, all passengers have an assigned seat or sleeping berth so there's no overcrowding.  Don't expect pristine western standards anywhere in India, but you'll find AC1, AC2, AC3 and AC Chair class clean by Indian standards, with both western-style and squat toilets usually in a reasonably sanitary condition, see the train interior photos below.  On the other hand, Sleeper Class gets much grubbier than the AC classes and unreserved passengers can sometimes enter the coaches making it crowded.  2nd class unreserved can be incredibly crowded.  Toilets in sleeper class or basic non-AC 2nd class seats can leave a lot to be desired.

Safety & security

Indian trains are safe to travel on, even for families or women travelling alone, and you are unlikely to have any problems.  As in any busy place anywhere, pickpockets operate at the major stations (for example Delhi and New Delhi), so take care.  Oh, and be prepared:  If anyone tells you that your train is cancelled, that the ticket office has closed or has moved to a travel agency across the road, or your pre-booked hotel has burnt down or been abducted by aliens, please politely ignore them, even if they look 'official', to avoid ending up in a travel agency paying for a car and driver at vast expense, or booking their 'alternative' hotel which of course will luckily have a room available.  These are all well-known scams (yawn...) to get travel agency business, usually obvious to any regular India hand, but first-timers have been known to fall for them.

Do Indian trains run on time?

Indian Railways are generally remarkably efficient, but Indian trains do run late, sometimes hours rather than minutes.  To get a feel for it, why not go to either www.trainenquiry.com or www.erail.in and see how late yesterday's Delhi-Jaisalmer Express arrived, or last Thursday's Mumbai-Delhi Rajdhani Express?  At www.erail.in , select the origin and destination that interests you, and bring up the train list.  Now find the train that you want and click on it.  Now select a date and click the 'train running status' button.  It will show you a table of scheduled times and actual times at each station.  Data is only held for the last few days, not weeks or months ago.  At www.trainenquiry.com , you simply enter the train number or name, then select from a list of possible trains.

Alternatively, these examples from my own travels may give you a feel for the likely delay:  Delhi-Varanasi overnight express spot on time, Bombay-Howrah Mail 1½ hours late, Chennai-Mumbai Chennai Express 40 minutes late, Kolkata-Delhi Rajdhani Express spot on time (Rajdhani Expresses get priority and are pretty punctual), Delhi-Agra Shatabdi Express spot on time (Shatabdi Expresses also get priority and are pretty punctual), Jaisalmer-Delhi Express 2 hours late starting and 3 hours late arriving, Delhi-Kalka-Simla Himalayan Queen spot on time, Varanasi-Agra-Jaipur Marudhar Express 50 minutes late, Chennai-Delhi Grand Trunk Express 1½ hours late.

Recharging mobiles & cameras

There are shaver sockets in most AC1/2/3 sleeper cars and many Indian trains now have power outlets for mobiles and laptops.  However, I never travel without an Anker powerbank which can recharge your phone several times over if you're on the move and can't get to a power outlet.

Other Indian train tips

Bring your own toilet paper.  You'll normally find one western toilet and one squat toilet at one or both ends of the car.  In AC1, AC2, AC Chair Class and even AC3 the toilets are normally reasonably clean by Indian standards, and in full working order.  Sleeper Class and 2nd class toilets may be a different matter!

Make sure you research when to visit India carefully - in summer it can be unbearably hot, and you also want to avoid the monsoon rains.  And in January & February in Northern India that there can be major disruption to road, rail & air due to thick fog, so bear that in mind.

Finally, forewarned is forearmed

In India, if someone asks which hotel you're going to, then announces that this hotel has been flooded, burnt down, or abducted by aliens, they are of course trying to get commission from sending you to another hotel - that's often painfully obvious and it's almost funny!  Smile, ignore them, and persist in walking to your own hotel, which will of course be open as usual.  But similarly, especially at big stations such as New Delhi, if an official-looking person (they may even show you a badge) says your train has been cancelled, or says you can't board without a boarding pass (with an e-ticket you can get on the train, there's no such thing as a boarding pass), smile, ignore them, walk past, and persist until you see the actual departure indicators and get your train.  If necessary, go and see the station master!  Although this has never happened to me, there are occasional reports of travellers being conned into buying new tickets from a nearby travel agency, being sent to a nearby travel agency when they wanted the genuine New Delhi foreigners booking office, or being conned into hiring a private car and driver for hundreds of dollars when they already had trains booked, which of course weren't really cancelled.  So smile, ignore, persist, go and see the departure boards with your own eyes, find and get on your train, and have a giggle about it later!  If you encounter any of this, feedback (and a good laugh) is always appreciated!

The 11 classes on Indian trains

There are 11 classes of accommodation on Indian trains or at least, 11 different class codes in the system.  You can argue that 3E is a variation of 3A, EA a variation of EC and that 2S & GN are the same (both are 2nd class seats, one reserved, the other unreserved).  But that's still 8 classes!

Only a small selection of classes is available on any given train, a typical long-distance train might have one AC1 car, one or two AC2 cars, perhaps an AC3 car, then a long line of 6, 7 or 8 Sleeper class cars and maybe one GN or 2S car at the end.  But it varies, of course.

Here are the classes, in roughly descending order of cost, together with the usual 2 & 3-letter abbreviations.  A request:  If you get any clear interior photos of AC2, AC3 or Sleeper class which would better illustrate these classes, please get in touch !

Air-conditioned first class (AC1 or 1A)

Air-conditioned 2-tier (ac2 or 2a).

AC2 is relatively clean & comfortable, with room to spread out.  It's the class typically used by middle class Indian families and a good choice for most western visitors.   AC2 is found on almost all decent long-distance trains including the premier Rajdhani & Duronto expresses.

AC2 offers padded leatherette seats by day which convert to flat padded bunks at night.  AC2 coaches are open-plan with berths arranged in bays of four on one side of the aisle (two upper, two lower, transverse across the car width), and in bays of two on the other side of the aisle, arranged longitudinally along the coach side above and below the windows.  If you're tall, you should book a transverse berth.

Each bay is curtained off for privacy, and an attendant distributes pillows, clean sheets and blankets in the evening.  Update:  Curtains were removed  as a Covid-19 precaution and may still be absent.

Click for car plans & berth numbering in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class .

Air-conditioned 3-tier (AC3 or 3A)

AC3 has a similar layout to AC2, but instead of upper & lower berths it has 3 tiers of bunks - upper, middle and lower - arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle, and longitudinal bays of two - upper and lower - along the wall on the other side of the aisle.  As in AC2, an attendant distributes pillows, sheets and blankets in the evening.  Berths convert to seats for daytime use.

With 3 people sitting on each bench seat during the day rather than just 2, it feels a lot more crowded than AC 2-tier, and at night there is less height-space between each bunk - the top bunks are significantly higher up near the ceiling.  AC3 may lack the privacy curtains and individual berth lights usually found in AC2.  As in AC2, you should avoid the longitudinal berths if you are tall.  Still, if you find AC2 fully-booked, most western travellers will find AC3 an acceptable fall-back.  See car plans & berth numbering in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class .  Photos courtesy of Rachel Poschi.

Air-conditioned 3-tier economy (3E)

Executive anubhuti chair car (ea), ac executive chair class (ec).

AC Executive Chair Class is only found on the high-quality Shatabdi Express , Vande Bharat Express & Tejas Express trains.  Seats are arranged 2+2 across the car width, basic pre-packaged food & drink is included in the fare, served at your seat.  It's also known as First AC Chair class.  Seat numbering plan for AC Chair cars .

AC Chair class (CC)

AC Chair class is a good choice for daytime journeys.  Comfortable & air-conditioned, they have seats arranged 2+3 across the car width.  AC Chair Class is found on the Shatabdi Expresses, Vande Bharat Express, the several Tejas Express trains and a number of other inter-city daytime trains, for example Delhi-Jaipur, Delhi-Agra, Delhi-Kalka for Simla.   Seat numbering plan, AC Chair cars .

Sleeper Class (SL)

This is the way the bulk of the Indian population travels on long-distance trains, but it's also used by many more adventurous backpackers who are prepared to take the rough with the smooth.  The majority of cars on a typical long-distance mail or express train will be sleeper class.

Sleeper class consists of open-plan berths, arranged in bays of 6 bunks (upper, middle and lower) on one side of the aisle, and bays of 2 bunks (upper & lower) along the coach wall on the other side of the aisle.  Bunks fold away to form seating for daytime use.  It's the same basic layout as AC3, but without the air-con and without any privacy curtains.  Bedding is not provided, so bring a sleeping-bag.

Sleeper class is found on almost all long-distance trains except for the premier Rajdhani & Duronto services.  Sleeper class can be crowded (although in theory all berths must be reserved, so it can't get overcrowded), and it's fairly grubby and basic.  On the other hand, you get a better view of the countryside then in AC coaches, where the windows are sealed, tinted and sometimes dirty.  In summer, there are fans on the ceiling and a breeze from the windows.  In winter, wrap up warm at night and take a sleeping bag and fleece, as it can get cold.    Berth numbering system, AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class cars .

1st class (FC)

Traditional non-air-con 1st class has now almost disappeared, as Indian Railways have progressively phased it out in favour of AC 2-tier.  But for the record, ordinary first class consists of non-air-conditioned sleeper coaches with lockable 4-berth and 2-berth compartments, a similar layout to AC1 but without the AC.  Bedding is not provided, and it's much grubbier than AC1, AC2 or AC3 as it's not sealed against the dirt .

2nd class seats (2S = reserved or GN = unreserved)

Open plan cars with wooden or padded plastic seats, sometimes reserved and shown online as 2S, sometimes unreserved and shown online as either GN or II.  Not recommended for long distance overnight journeys (you'll see the huge scrum of Indians all trying to bag a seat in unreserved 2nd class), but quite acceptable for daytime journeys of up to a few hours if you're on a budget.

IndRail pass es:  Discontinued in 2017

Where to go in india.

First-time visitors often wonder where to start in such a vast country and they're sometimes told to tour only a small area, for example stick to Rajasthan or perhaps the beaches of Goa.  But I suggest a bolder approach.  Use the remarkable Indian train network to see a varied cross-section of India's highlights, picking one example from each type of place:  A big city, a colonial hill station, a princely city or two in Rajasthan, then Agra of course for the Taj Mahal, and also Varanasi, the classic Hindu holy city on the Ganges.  This way, you'll see some incredible highlights and complete contrasts, with overnight trains minimising both daytime travelling time and hotel bills.

A suggested itinerary

Here's what I personally consider the best itinerary around Northern India, taking in an amazing variety of classic Indian cities in as little as 2 weeks.  Highlight after highlight in a 2-week itinerary.  If you have longer to spare, add an extra day or two here and there and/or add one more Rajasthani city, Udaipur.

Delhi 1-3 days.  Contrast the bustling old city with Lutyens' gracious New Delhi.

Take the Swatantrta S Express leaving New Delhi at 21:15 arriving Varanasi Junction at 08:05 next morning. AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

Varanasi 2-3 days.  Formerly called Benares, Varanasi is the must-see Hindu holy city on the Ganges.  Make sure you stay in a local Indian riverside hotel such as the Hotel Alka , with its terrace overlooking the Ganges.  Western chain hotels are usually located in the new town, well away from all the amazing riverside action.  The Hotel Alka is one of the better hotels in this top riverside location, and eating a Thai on the terrace as the Diwali fireworks went off overhead and Lilly pads with candles drifted down the Ganges was an unforgettable experience.

Take the Marudhar Express from Varanasi Junction around 18:25 arriving Agra Fort at 06:40 next morning. AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.  No AC1.

Agra 2 days, remembering to visit the fantastic deserted royal city of Fatephur Sikhri 30km away by bus or car.  Agra may be the most touristy place in India, but the Taj is utterly beautiful and well worth the tourist tout hassle.  Agra fort and the ‘baby Taj’ are also worth a visit.

Take the Marudhar Express from Agra Fort around 06:45 arriving Jaipur at 11:50 the same day. AC2, AC3, Sleeper class (No AC1).

Jaipur 2-3 days.  The 'Pink City' is one of the most wonderful princely cities in Rajasthan, and indeed in India.

Take the daily Raniket Express leaving Jaipur at 10:10 arriving Jaisalmer at 22:30 the same day, with AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

Or the Shalimar Express on Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun leaving Jaipur 17:45 arriving Jaisalmer 05:30 next morning, with AC1, AC2, AC3 & sleeper class.

Jaisalmer 2-3 days.  This is Rajasthan’s ultimate fairytale city and one of the most beautiful cities in the whole of India, in the desert close to the Pakistan border.  For many years it had no airport so only those who made the effort got to experience it, although sadly it may now have flights using the military airbase nearby.

Take the Shalimar Express leaving Jaisalmer at 23:25 on Mon, Wed, Thus, Sat and arriving at Old Delhi at 16:50 next day. AC1, AC2, AC3, sleeper class.  Spend the night in Delhi.

Take the Kalka Shatabdi leaving New Delhi at 07:40 arriving Kalka at 11:40. AC Executive chair class and AC Chair class, meal included served at your seat. Change onto the waiting narrow-gauge Simla toy train leaving Kalka at 12:10 arriving Simla at 17:20 with (non-AC) 1st class, AC Chair class, 2nd class. The journey to Simla by narrow gauge Toy Train is an absolute delight.

Simla 2-3 days.  Cool relaxation and colonial mock-Tudor charm in this lovely Himalayan hill station from the days of the Raj.  The ideal final destination for your trip!  The upmarket colonial-style Clarkes Hotel is wonderful.

Take the toy train leaving Simla at 18:05 arriving Kalka at 22:40. Change onto the mainline Netaji Express leaving Kalka at 23:55 and arriving Old Delhi at 06:00. AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

How to book this itinerary

Option 1 is to arrange it all yourself .  First sketch out your itinerary, perhaps using the technique explained here .  Then book each train journey at 12go.asia (hassle-free, although naturally they charge a reasonable agency mark-up) or get yourself registered with IRCTC and book as explained here .  Then book each of your hotels separately using Booking.com .  This is the budget option, if you don't mind the legwork and managing it yourself.

Option 2 is to have it all booked for you, hassle-free .  I've arranged for train specialists Railbookers to offer this exact itinerary as a package, with trains, hotels, transfers (and if you like, your flight to India) all sorted for you.  This costs more than sorting it all out yourself, but it saves a lot of effort (and possible frustration) and as it's then a package, if anything affects one part of the tour Railbookers will sort things out for you.  Their suggested tour can be customised to your own requirements, to spend more or less time in each place.  Railbookers is an ABTA member and holidays including flights are ATOL protected.

  UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk . 

  us call free 1-888-829-4775, see website .,   canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website .,   australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website . ,   new zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website ., alternative versions.

Alternatively, just pick on big city, one hill station, a couple of cities in Rajasthan, and a couple of places from the 'other' list below and create your own itinerary.  How about:  Kolkata - (overnight sleeper train to New Jalpaiguri then the famous Darjeeling Toy Train) - Darjeeling - Varanasi - (overnight sleeper train) - Agra - (daytime train) - Jaipur - (overnight sleeper train) - Kolkata?

The big cities

The royal cities of rajasthan, old colonial hill stations, other places to see, two personal favourites:  a ride to darjeeling.

A personal favourite is the ride to Darjeeling on the narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalaya Railway (DHR), and a night or two at the wonderful Windamere Hotel .  The DHR is now a UN World Heritage Site.

Travel from Kolkata's Sealdah station to New Jalpaiguri (NJP) on the broad gauge Darjeeling Mail, leaving Sealdah at 22:05 and arriving NJP at 08:15 next morning.  The Darjeeling Mail has AC1, AC2, AC3, sleeper class and 2nd class accommodation.  Then take the connecting DHR 'toy train' up to Darjeeling, leaving NJP at 10:00 daily, arriving Darjeeling at 17:30.  It's a long ride on a narrow gauge train, sometimes next to the hill road, sometimes through jungle, and sometimes through the streets.

You can check the current status of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway at www.dhrs.org/page4.html - it has it's ups and downs, if you'll pardon the expression.

Once in Darjeeling, the place to stay is the Windamere Hotel .  Originally a boarding house for bachelor tea planters, it became a hotel in 1939.  Meals are served by white-gloved, turbanned waiters and eaten by candlelight to the sound of Cole Porter tunes on the piano.  Even if you can't afford it, make sure you come along for afternoon tea - probably the best cup of tea you will ever drink.

...and a ride to Simla.

A little bit more robust than the line to Darjeeling, the similar toy train up to Simla in the Himalayan foothills is the way to reach Simla, once India's summer capital.  Take a fast broad-gauge train from New Delhi to Kalka and change there onto the Toy Train up into the hills.  The train ride to Simla is one of Simla's highlights on its own.  If you get the chance, use the Shivalik Deluxe Express on the way back down from Simla (it connects with the overnight express to New Delhi going forward next day to Kolkata).  The Shivalik Deluxe has plush fabric-covered first class armchairs, and a meal is served at your seat, included in the price.  Although it gets dark as you descend, at stations without electricity the signalmen hand the single-line token to the driver whilst holding burning torches, the shimmering flames lighting up the side of the train.  It's wonderfully atmospheric.

Tours of India by train

The cheapest option is to arrange everything yourself, independently, but this takes time and effort.  If you want a customisable itinerary with all your train tickets, up-market hotels and transfers arranged for you, you can do this through train specialists Railbookers.  Their website has various example itineraries including a one-week Golden Triangle one visiting Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, but have a look at the suggested itinerary above covering Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Jaipur, Jaisalmer & Simla as I think it's the best 2-week itinerary around northern India that you'll find, and I've arranged for Railbookers to offer it.  Railbookers takes good care of their clients and gets very good reviews.

Escorted tours in India by train

If you'd prefer to travel with a group of fellow travellers escorted by a professional tour guide, check are Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com , in the UK call 01904 527 120) and Rail Discoveries , www.raildiscoveries.com , 01904 730 727.  Both offer popular escorted tours covering India's 'Golden Triangle' of Delhi, Agra for the Taj Mahal and Jaipur in Rajasthan.  At the time of writing, Great rail Journeys also do an escorted tour covering Delhi, Amritsar for the Golden Temple, Agra for the Taj Mahal, Lucknow, Varanasi on the Ganges and Kathmandu in Nepal, with departures on various dates through the year.

Tourist cruise trains

There are now several luxury cruise trains catering for tourists and offering sightseeing itineraries around Indian cities.  All of these trains are in effect 5 star international hotels on wheels, allowing you to see India in great comfort.

The Palace on Wheels

See www.palacesonwheels.com and see the Palace on Wheels video .  This is India's first and most celebrated cruise train, voted as the world's 4th best luxury train by Condé Nast Traveller magazine.  All suites feature private shower & spotlessly clean toilet, TV & CD player, and the train's two elegant restaurant cars offer both Indian and international cuisine.

Prices range from $2,750 for a 7-night 8-day tour around key cities in Rajasthan such as Jaisalmer, Jaipur, Udaipur & Jodhpur with all meals, off-train tours and on-board accommodation included. 

You can book the Palace on Wheels through recommended train holiday specialist Railbookers who can also arrange flights, hotels and other Indian trains for you.

If you'd prefer to use the Palace on Wheels on an escorted tour with friendly group of travellers and a professional tour guide are available from Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com , in the UK call 01904 527 120).

Other luxury cruise trains

The Palace on Wheels is no longer the only cruise train in India, and it's not even the best.  Others have sprung up, though prices are sky-high.  Be warned that most of these companies quote a rate per night, not for the whole tour!

Maharaja's Express , see www.the-maharajas.com - See the Maharaja's Express video .  Runs various 3 or 7 night tours from Delhi back to Delhi or between Delhi & Mumbai, via places such as Agra, Jaipur, Varanasi, Lucknow, Khajuraho.  From $3,580 per person.  This train is run by Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC), originally as a joint venture with Cox & KIngs.  Gets very positive feedback, 'ten out of ten' from one correspondent.  You can now book the Maharaja's Express through train holiday specialist www.railbookers.co.uk .

Royal Rajasthan on Wheels , www.royalsrajasthanonwheels.com - See the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels video .  Offers 8-day (7-night) itineraries with weekly departures from Delhi back to Delhi, stopping at Jodhpur, Udaipur, Ranthambore National Park, Jaipur, Khajuraho & Varanasi.  From around $4,130 per person for two people sharing, $5,775 single occupancy for the least expensive suites.  Has also had great feedback, and can also be booked through www.railbookers.co.uk .

Golden Chariot , www.goldenchariot.org - see the Golden Chariot video .  A luxury train offering weekly departures from Bangalore for a week-long tour to Goa & southern India.

Deccan Odyssey , www.deccan-odyssey-india.com - see the Deccan Odyssey video .  A luxury train offering weekly departures from Mumbai for a week-long tour to Goa, Pune, and the caves at Ajanta & Ellora.

Indian Maharaja , www.theindianmaharaja.co.in .  Offers 8-day 7-night 'land cruises' between Delhi & Mumbai in either direction on various dates between October & April, with stopovers & tours at Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur, Ellora & Ajanta Caves, starting at around $4,095 per person for two people sharing or from $5,229 single occupancy.

These trains can also be arranged through Railbookers.  On their website, select 'Private trains'.

Inclusive luxury train escorted tours

If you'd like a deluxe train-based holiday to India, but would like to do this as part of an organised tour, Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com ) is a well-known company offering inclusive upmarket escorted tours to India, including the Palace on Wheels or a number of other special Indian 'cruise trains', five star hotels plus flights to/from the UK.  There are a number of different tours available, departing on a range of dates throughout the year.  Check the holiday details online, then call 01904 527120 to book or use their online booking form .  Seat61 gets some commission to help support the site if you book your holiday through this link and phone number.

International trains, buses & ferries

There are international trains to Pakistan & Bangladesh, and buses to Nepal.  Here's a quick summary:

Delhi - Amritsar - Lahore, Pakistan

Take a train from Delhi to Amritsar, there are lots to choose from.  See www.indianrail.gov.in for times & fares. 

Take a bus or taxi the 26km from Amritsar to the India/Pakistan frontier at Atari.  Walk through the border posts to Wagah on the Pakistani side.  You may want to hang around Wagah to see the spectacular ceremony at sunset when the border closes.  Indian and Pakistani guards try to outdo each other with their performances, watched by Indians and Pakistani crowds!

Take another bus or taxi the remaining 20km to Lahore.  Allow plenty of time for this deceptively short journey. 

There used to be a cross-border train, but tension in Kashmir means all India-Pakistan trains are suspended at the moment.

Delhi - Jodhpur - Karachi, Pakistan

A weekly international train called the Thar Express started in February 2006 from Jodhpur to Karachi via the border at Munabao.  But it's currently suspended.

Eastbound:   The Thar Express leaves Karachi every Friday at 23:00, arriving at 'Zero Point' on the Pakistan/India frontier at around 08:00 next morning.  After customs checks, the train goes forward to Munabao on the Indian side, arriving around 11:00.The Indian train departs Munabao at 19:00 after customs formalities, arriving Jodhpur (Bhagat Ki Kothi station) at 23:50 Saturday.

Westbound:   The Thar Express leaves Jodhpur (Bhagat Ki Kothi station, about 4km from the main station) every Saturday morning at 01:00 arriving Munabao at 07:00, leaving Munabao at around 14:30 on Saturdays, reaching Karachi at 02:15 on Sunday morning. 

The sleeper fare from Jodhpur to Munabao/zero point is about Rs170, and from Munabao/zero point to Karachi is about Rs230.  No more information is yet available, but feedback would be appreciated!  The train has one sleeping-car and several economy cars.

Update :  Tension in Kashmir means all India-Pakistan trains are suspended at the moment.

Delhi to Kathmandu, Nepal

It's quite easy, cheap, and an adventure to do this journey overland.  You take an overnight train from New Delhi to Gorakpur, then a bus.  For details, see the Nepal page .

Kolkata to Dhaka, Bangladesh

A new direct train from Kolkata (Calcutta) to Dhaka started in April 2008, see the Bangladesh page .

India to Sri Lanka by ferry

After many years of being cut off from each other (with at least one short-lived attempt to start a ferry service in 2011), a new ferry service started in late 2023, linking Nagapattinam (mainland India) with Kankesanthurai (on Sri Lanka, near Jaffna).

The fast ferry Cheriyapani sails from Nagapattinam (India)  at 07:00 arriving Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 11:00.

She sails from Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 13:30 arriving Kankesanthurai (India) at 17:00.

Crossing time 3 hours for the 60 nautical miles.  Service will be suspended during the monsoon season in November-December.

Fare around 8,000 Indian rupees, luggage allowance 40 Kg.

Online booking will be available starting in January 2024, website not yet known.  Until then, call +91 978 987 9971 at least 24 hours in advance. You will be required to send a copy of your passport and visa details via WhatsApp to confirm the booking.

Be careful with e-visas when using this ferry, they will not initially be accepted at these entry points, but may be in future.

India to Burma (Myanmar)

The India/Burma border is closed to foreigners.  It is not possible to travel to Burma overland from India.  For train and river steamer service within Burma, see the Burma page .

India to China

The direct route from India into China is difficult and mountainous, there are no trains, you need some serious permits to be in that part of India, and most if not all border crossings are closed to foreigners.  If you wish to travel this way, do your research before attempting it! 

For most practical purposes, you are better off going from India to Kathmandu in Nepal ( see the Nepal page ), then taking an organised tour from Kathmandu to Lhasa in Tibet ( see the Nepal page ), then a train to Beijing.  For train service within China, including Lhasa to Beijing, see the China page .

Europe to India overland

Europe to india via istanbul, iran, pakistan.

It's possible to travel from Europe to India overland by train and bus via Turkey, Iran & Pakistan, along what in the 1960s & 70s was the hippy train.  However, these days there are serious security problems affecting this route in Turkey, SE Iran & Pakistan.  If you are foolhardy enough to brave these, it takes a minimum of 2-3 weeks and you should consider it as an adventure or expedition rather than a routine way to travel there. 

Administratively, the main issue is getting an tourist visa for Iran - see the London to Iran page for agencies to contact to get one.  Finally, there are major security issues in southeast Iran to be aware of - see the official travel advice for Iran and Pakistan at the British Foreign Office website, www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice .  If you are still interested, see the Europe to India overland page .  I'd suggest planning the trip out carefully before you start to book anything - this may help:  How to plan an itinerary & budget .

Europe to India via Moscow, the Trans-Siberian Railway, Beijing & Lhasa

A safer though somewhat round-about way is London to Moscow by Eurostar and onward trains to Moscow (2 nights, £300, daily departures), Moscow to Beijing via the Trans-Siberian Railway (6 or 7 nights, £500, two per week), Beijing to Lhasa by train (2 nights, £100, daily), then an organised tour by bus from Lhasa to Nepal (7 nights, maybe $400), then bus and train to Delhi .  Again, you may find this helpful:  How to plan an itinerary & budget .  Trains to Russia are suspended due to Covid-19 and now sanctions .

Hotels in India

Personal hotel recommendations, tripadvisor hotel reviews.

www.tripadvisor.com is a good place to find independent travellers' reviews of the main hotels.  It also has the low-down on all the sights & attractions too.

Flights to India

Overland travel by train around India is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!  But if you need a long-haul flight to reach India in the first place.

1)  Check flight prices at Opodo, www.opodo.com

2)  use skyscanner to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines.

3)  Lounge passes

Make the airport experience a little more bearable with a VIP lounge pass, it's not as expensive as you think!  See www.loungepass.com

For independent travel, the best guidebook to take is either the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide .  I gave Sarah the Lonely Planet and Karen the Rough Guide and we road-tested both of them head-to-head across India.  The result was a tie, with similarly excellent levels of both practical travel information and historical and cultural background.  I personally prefer the Lonely Planet, but Karen preferred the Rough Guide.  Just make sure you take one of these two guides with you..!  If you buy anything at Amazon through these links, Seat61.com gets a small commission to help support the site.

Buy Lonely Planet India at Amazon.co.uk    Buy Rough Guide India at Amazon.co.uk

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website , from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

Also for your reading list

Travel insurance & other tips, always take out travel insurance.

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list .  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data .

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.

How it works:   1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android .  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card , they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  W hy you need a VPN

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained .  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I get a small commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from Buy from Amazon.com .

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Train & Rail Tours in India

Relax and admire breathtaking views in India only accessible by train journey. With 31 India train tours lasting from 1 days up to 34 days, you're sure to find a railway carriage with your name on it on a route that will leave you speechless.

31 Train tour packages in India with 100 reviews

• Train & Rail
• Christmas & New Year

Golden Triangle on Wheels Indian Railways

Everything on our tour went like clockwork, except for the trains and this unfortunately can't be avoided. Our drivers and guides were always on time, mostly early and all were very knowlwdgeable re their cities and subjects. Our hotels were all very good and in good locations. The only improvement we advise is the cleanliness of the trains and the toilets, as while we were given clean linen for each trip the general condition of the inside of the carriages themselves and particularly the windows did leave a lot to be desired. Amit, our tour organiser was excellent and he had everything well under control. We would certainly recommend Yolo Tours/ Tour Radar to anyone who wants to see India in depth!

Golden Triangle Tour By Train/Rail - Taj Mahal and Train Ride 5 days

Rajasthan Wildlife Tour: Ranthambore National Park by Train - 5 Days

Awesome Ranthambore Jungle Safari, an experience to remember for a lifetime !

Taj Mahal & Agra Private Tour for 2 Days by Express Train

Our guide, Raj, was very informative and helpful. He was happy to answer any questions we had. And he seemed genuinely interested. He was happy to allow us wander the sites ourselves after. The hotel was beautiful. And the driver was brilliant.

• 10% deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

Amritsar Tour From Delhi By Shatabdi Train

We Have no any other option to take the Amritsar Tour from Delhi by Shatabdi Train and I must say, it was an incredible experience. The tour was well-organized and everything went smoothly from start to finish. The journey from Delhi to Amritsar on the Shatabdi train was comfortable and convenient. The train was clean and well-maintained, and the seats were spacious and comfortable. The on-board service was also excellent, with friendly and efficient staff catering to our needs. Upon arrival in Amritsar, we were greeted by our tour guide who was very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the city. He gave us a brief introduction to Amritsar and its history, and then we proceeded to visit the Golden Temple. The Golden Temple was a sight to behold. The magnificent structure, the serene atmosphere, and the devotion of the people made it a truly spiritual experience. Our guide took us around the temple and explained the significance of each part of the complex. We also got to witness the langar (community meal) which is served to all visitors for free. After the Golden Temple, we visited the Jallianwala Bagh, a memorial to the tragic massacre that took place there in 1919. Our guide gave us a detailed account of the events that took place and it was a somber and moving experience. The tour also included a visit to the Wagah Border, where we witnessed the famous Beating Retreat ceremony. It was a thrilling experience to see the soldiers from both India and Pakistan perform their drill with such precision and patriotism. The tour ended with a visit to the local markets where we got to indulge in some shopping and try out some delicious Punjabi cuisine. Our guide took us to some of the best street food stalls and we were not disappointed. Overall, the Amritsar Tour from Delhi by Shatabdi Train was a memorable experience. The well-planned itinerary, comfortable transportation, knowledgeable guide, and the beautiful city of Amritsar all made it a perfect trip. I would highly recommend this tour to anyone looking to explore the vibrant culture and history of Amritsar.

Journey Through Time: Exploring India's Heritage by Satabdi Train

Taj to Varanasi

Train Tour: 5 Days Golden Triangle Tour with 4 Nights Accomodation

Amar was our tour guide for the 6 days Amritsar plus Golden Triangle tour. This is an amazing tour. This itineray is packed with amazing tours sightseeing and activities Lots to see and cover in 6 days. I know a tour guide can either make or break your vacation, let me assue you we had the best in Amar . He goes above and beyond to ensure satisfaction. He is attentive, patient , understanding, and thrives to please his clients. If you are planning to take this trip I highly recommend Amarjeet. Nothing is too much to ask. There is no question his priority is customer satisfaction. We were completely blown away by Amar's kindness and I know you will too.

Incredible Golden Triangle Rail Tour

Tour Guide Hilal was Guide for Agra and the Taj Mahal. Hall was Incredible Historian and a Great Photoghapher. Jugal Kishore was my Guide in Jaipur to view the Amber Fort and by my request Jugal obtain permission for me to climb the Great Wall surrounding the city and Fort. Jugal climbed the wall with me. Not an easy thing to do. Well done Jugal Kishore.

From Delhi: Taj Mahal Private Tour By Gatiman Express Train

I was a solo traveler and wanted to be in a safe hand. My friend has recommended Travel Creators for the trip and I had a great time in Agra by going from Delhi. Tour guide mohd was very kind and friendly. He made me feel comfortable and I had a amazing trip to the beautiful Taj Mahal and Agra fort

All Inclusive - Taj Mahal and Agra Fort by Superfast Train: Private Day Tour from Delhi

Aamir was a great tour guide! He showed us everything and explained us the history of the Taj Mahal and Amber Fort. He was also very friendly and helpful

Explore Varanasi Overnight Tour By High Speed Train From Delhi

Haridwar & Rishikesh Reverie: A Sacred Train Tour from Delhi

• In-depth Cultural

Express Taj Mahal Day Trip: Delhi to Agra by India's Superfast Train

I had a great day in Agra as I took a day trip which had gave me a good time to spend at the Taj Mahal and Agra fort in a short period of time.

3 Days Delhi, Agra, Jaipur Golden Triangle Tour by Train

What a fantastic trip. Although we were never 100% sure what was going to happen next, it all worked out to plan. Good guides, enjoyable train journeys, interesting sights, ok hotel in Jaipur - thoroughly recommend this company and this tour

What people love about Train & Rail Tours in India

The idea of travelling by train to different cities and getting picked up by different tour guides was a great idea. Tour guides had different strengths and weaknesses. Overall good experience although a little on the pricy side.

So, I kind started the tour with a bit of a rough start. My Delhi driver didn't seem to know how to get to the train station, then I felt pressed to take a tuk-tuk that I couldn't afford, to get dropped off. Then was pressed by him to get money from the ATM, which none of the three at the station worked for me. I was feeling pretty skeptical about the tour I had purchased and that I had been thrown out there on my own,but my tour guide in Agra, Faz, quickly decreased my worries and immediately brighted my mood for the rest of the time I spent with him on the tour. He pleasantly welcomed me to Agra with a beautiful flower garland and was very professional and polite. He spoke perfectly clear English and was easy to understand. He clearly has a lot of knowledge, passion and pride in the historical, religious and artistic beauty of the cities sites. He had a lot of special insights and knew best how to plan things. He was great at both offering to take pictures and at taking them, some unique and fun. Additionally, he was very considerate and carried my bag and sweatshirt for me so I could enjoy taking my own pictures and not have to deal with them, such a gentleman. He was very easy to talk to and open to questions. As mentioned earlier, I had cash/ATM issues and he stepped right up until we were able to resolve this, paying for entry fees. Then he was more than patient when this unfortunately took several stops to successfully resolve. I really felt he went above and beyond. He was very kind and understanding, despite my embarrassment that this couldn't get easily resolved. He had an engaging, fun, but very professional quality. I was highly impressed. He's the most delightful and professional guide and I highly recommend him. I was very saddened that I would be getting a new tour guide as he was wonderful. He always wanted to make sure I was enjoying the sites and was feeling good with how things were going. Definitely a top notch professional, highly knowledgeable and great character. I absolutely loved my tour with Faz. I'd give him over 5☆☆☆☆ My guide in Fatehpur sikri, was also quite pleasant. I was only with him for a few hours in the city, but he guided me through things well and was helpful. He had a great knowledge of the area and seemed to enjoy the history. He even helped me get rid of an obnoxious peddler, which was appreciated. I did however feel that he was a bit pushy in a shop we went into and I spent more money than planned/could afford. My driver, Chetan, was always punctual and I had no complaints. Although, he didn't speak much he was always polite and professional when he did. I really appreciated him expertly maunvering through all the crazy traffic. He did amazing. ☆☆☆☆☆ The hotel was fabulous and had a beautiful rooftop pool and spa. You could even see the Taj Mahal from there (just barely through the smoke). The restaurant and breakfast were both good. No complaints at all. The train was fine, not luxury or similar to US. Food was not bad considering it was train food, which I compared to being similar to plane food. Everything was great really, except my drop off in Delhi and my pickup in Delhi were I never connected with the driver and ended having to pay to take a chilly ride in a tuk-tuk. They did try and contact me when I arrived in Delhi (my service is inconsistent),but it would have been better to have this information before Ieft Agra. I believe this would have negated the problem as could directly go where I needed to go. This was done before I left for Agra, why not Delhi. So, the guides, hotel, driver in Agra and train I had no issues. Just a bit with the drop off driver in Delhi and confusion over pickup, but overall good tour.

Regions in India

• Northern India (16)
• Rajasthan (11)
• Golden Triangle (6)

Travel Styles

• Best Train Travel Companies
• India Travel Guide | All You Need to Know
• 10 Best Trekking Companies & Operators in India (with 5,325 Reviews)
• 10 Best Backpacking Groups & Travel Agencies (with 1,857 Reviews)
• India for Female Solo Travellers - Is India Safe?
• Best 2 Week India Itineraries 2024/2025 (with Reviews)

International Versions

• Deutsch: Indien Zugreisen
• Français: Inde : Circuits train et rail 2024/2025
• Español: Tren y ferrocarril Circuitos en India
• Nederlands: Trein & spoor Rondreizen in India

All about Indian Trains – Travel by train in India

Embark on an unforgettable adventure through India’s diverse landscapes and rich cultural heritage with the Indian Railway. Experience the sights, sounds, and flavors of this vibrant country like the locals do, as you weave through bustling cities, scenic countryside, and ancient landmarks. With its extensive network and affordable fares, the Indian Railway offers an unparalleled opportunity to explore this enchanting land, one station at a time.

Are you planning to visit India? Start here:

All about Indian trains

The train is the most popular mean of transport in India. Indian Railways date back to over 160 years ago, when the first passenger train ran between the cities of Mumbai and Thane in 1853, on a route that was about 32km long.

Today, Indian railways claim over 67.956 km (42.225 mi) of railways, making it the fourth largest national railway system in the world by size after China (3rd), Russia (2nd) and the United States (1st). More than 13.000 trains run on the Indian’s railway network every day.

Being so developed, the railways of India are a very efficient and convenient way to get around. Finding information about routes, ticketing and other services, however, isn’t very straightforward, but we made it clearer for you. Find everything you need to know about trains in India below:

How to search for trains in India?

You can look for train rides on Google or on the official IRCTC website . IRCTC is the Indian Railways’ official website and it allows visitors to check and book trains.

You need to register on the website however, and surprisingly the registration process is not free . Registration costs 100 INR + taxes (about $1.50 USD) per account. You can then book tickets for multiple tickets from the same account.

TIP: If you’re only interested in checking trains but you are not registered, visit the website using a private window. This will allow you to check trains, but still you need to register on IRCTC to make a reservation.

How to book trains in India?

There are multiple ways to book a train ticket in India:

• Online Booking : The most popular and convenient way to book a train ticket in India is through the Indian Railways official website – www.irctc.co.in . While it’s true that you can find several websites who offer train booking services in India, at the end of the day all of them redirect their customers to the IRCTC website to purchase tickets. To book a ticket online, you need to create an account on the IRCTC website, provide your travel details, choose the train, select the class of travel, and make payment using any of the available payment options. If you are a foreigner you need to select “international cards”. During booking, you will need to choose the carriage class and sometimes you may see a ticket on WL, which stands for Waiting List. While you are still allowed to buy a ticket on a waiting list, conditions apply. Keep reading to find out more about it.
• Mobile App : The Indian Railways has a mobile app called “ IRCTC Rail Connect ” that can be downloaded from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store. The app provides all the functionalities of the website and is convenient to use.
• Railway Reservation Counters : Passengers can also book their train tickets through the reservation counters located at the railway stations. To book a ticket at the counter, you need to fill up a reservation form, provide your travel details, choose the train, select the class of travel, and make payment. This option isn’t ideal however, as it’s more time consuming and most trains get fully booked days in advance.
• Authorized Travel Agents : There are authorized travel agents who can book train tickets on behalf of passengers. These travel agents charge a small fee for their services.

It is advisable to book train tickets in advance to avoid the last-minute rush and unavailability of seats. The booking for most trains opens 120 days in advance, and it is recommended to book tickets as soon as the booking opens to ensure availability.

Types of tickets, costs and duration

To discuss tickets, costs and duration we can take one route and stick to it as an example:

Delhi – Jaipur

Let’s consider the Delhi – Jaipur train ride. This is a popular railway line, so it will be a good example also in terms of train classes. We are looking at a 310km (192mi) ride which would otherwise take 5 hours by car to complete. By train, the trip takes between 4 and 5 hours , depending on the train.

On a random weekday we found 17 daily train rides , well spread during the day. You will often see night trains too, which are ideal for long distance trips. For most train you have 4 options: Sleeper (SL) , AC 3 Tier (3A) , AC 2 Tier (2A) and AC First Class (1A) , where AC refers to Air Conditioning. Other trains offer chair seats and are listed as AC Chair Car (CC) , Exec. Chair Car (EC) , and so on.

For what concerns prices, for this same route a Sleeper ticket costs 210 INR ($2.5 USD), an AC 3 Tier costs 560 INR ($7 USD), an AC 2 Tier costs 800 INR ($10 USD) and an AC First Class ticket costs 1350 INR ($16,50 USD). On the other hand, an AC Chair Car ticket costs about 800 INR ($10 USD) while an Exec. Chair Car ticket costs up to 1350 INR ($16,50 USD).

The ones mentioned above are both sleeping and non sleeping trains. Sleeper (SL) , AC 3 Tier (3A) , AC 2 Tier (2A) and AC First Class (1A) are all sleeping trains. AC Chair Car (CC) , Exec. Chair Car (EC) , and so on are non-sleeping trains. Here are more details about each class:

Sleeping trains:

Non-sleeping trains:.

You can see these Indian Railway Classes in details on this website .

Waiting list & berth status

In the Indian railway system, passengers can book tickets for a train journey either with a confirmed reservation or with a waiting list status. The waiting list status indicates that the ticket is not confirmed, and the passenger will be allocated a seat or berth only if there are cancellations made by other passengers who had confirmed reservations.

When booking a ticket, passengers can choose to book a waiting list ticket. The waiting list is denoted as “WL” on the ticket. The waiting list ticket will have a unique 10-digit PNR (Passenger Name Record) number, which can be used to check the status of the ticket.

The Indian Railways allocates a limited number of seats or berths for each train, and the waiting list limit also varies depending on the train, class, and season. The waiting list status is updated based on the cancellations made by other passengers. The waiting list status is denoted as “WL” followed by a number indicating the position of the passenger on the waiting list.

In addition to the waiting list, there are other types of statuses that a passenger can receive. For example, a ticket with a confirmed reservation will have the status “CNF” on the ticket. The status “RAC” indicates that the ticket is a Reservation Against Cancellation ticket, which means the passenger will get a seat or berth, but may have to share it with another passenger.

Baggages and backpacks stay with you on Indian trains. There is usually enough space under the bottom bunk to store your luggage. You’ll manage to squeeze a carry-on and even a 60-70 liter backpack under the seat.

Just like for airplanes, there is a weight limitation for baggages when boarding Indian trains. Don’t worry, 99% of travelers will never exceed the free allowance, and nobody checked our bags while travelling by train there, but it’s still important to mention.

Food and drinks

Food and drinks are available on most Indian trains. On the higher classes, food is often complimentary and it’s brought directly to your seat. On lower classes (especially on the Sleeper one (SL)), food vendors are more common and they move through the train selling snacks and meals. Some long-distance trains also have dining cars where you can sit down and enjoy a meal.

You can also find food and drinks at most railway stations. Train stations in India often have a variety of food stalls and vendors selling snacks, beverages, and meals. These stalls offer a range of options, from local street food to more traditional Indian dishes, and are often very affordable.

Some trains even plan longer stops at some railway stations in order for the passengers to have enough time to desembark, buy some food and jump on the train again. It’s a really hectic and interesting situation.

Many passengers also bring their own food and snacks for the journey.

Best tips for a better experience

Book in advance – Train tickets get sold out on a daily basis, so make sure to plan your trips in advance. You can always take a bus when trains are sold out, but it’s much better to make a reservation if you already know the dates of your travels.

Get to the station at least 30 minutes before departure time – Some Indian train stations are chaotic and it may take some time to figure out where to go in order to find your train. Make sure to go to the train station ahead of time, and avoid any trouble.

Download IXIGO – Available for android and ios, IXIGO is an Indian AI-based app which is also an IRCTC authorised partner. The app allows you to track your train tickets, predict delays and cancellations, show your bookings and even help you find the right carriage and platform. While the app may be unavailable in your current region, you can easily download it once you get to India.

Always check for nearby stations – Some Indian cities might not be served by the Indian Railway network, but this does not mean you can’t reach them by train. For example, while the town of Pushkar has no train stations, you can still make it by train to the nearby city of Ajmer and then take a rickshaw or a bus for the last few km.

Savitri Temple Pushkar – the best sunset spot in Pushkar

Carnival of ivrea through the eyes of a canadian in italy.

• More Networks

A Complete Guide to Traveling India by Train (for Solo Travelers)

Last Updated on June 7, 2023 by Christine Kaaloa

Train travel in India… traveling India, I take trains a lot. In this post, I share essential tips for traveling India by train, how to travel India safely as a female solo traveler and how to book Indian train travel on your own.

Firstly, let me say– I love traveling India by train!!!  But it’s  not for everyone.

When I did my video on Indian Trains with India Railways, I shared three train rides,   spanning 32 hours of both, day and overnight train schedules, traveling AC3 and CC class. In reality I’ve taken more rides than that and find trains in India can be convenient, comfortable (and uncomfortable) and ultimately, part of the adventure of traveling India.

Table of Contents: A Complete Guide to Traveling India by Train (for Solo Travelers)

• 1 A complete guide for traveling India by train
• 2.0.1 2S Second Class Seating
• 2.0.2  Sleeper Class
• 2.0.3 Third Class (AC-3 class)
• 2.0.4 Chair Car class (CC A/C class)
• 2.0.5 First and second class (AC-1  & AC-2)
• 4.1 Best trains for travelers 
• 4.2 Is taking an Overnight Train in India safe?
• 4.3 India train travel tips, safety and etiquette
• 4.4 Dealing with Crowds at Train Stations
• 4.5 Misconceptions about Indian Trains
• 4.6 Should you Buy Indian Train Food?
• 4.7 Toilets on Indian Trains
• 4.8 Train Etiquette on Indian Trains
• 4.9 Where do you store you luggage on Indian trains
• 5.1 Book train tickets online with India Railways
• 6.1 Book your India Train tickets through an Indian Travel Agent
• 6.2 Buying your tickets at the train station
• 7.0.1 Tatkal Tickets
• 7.0.2 Foreign Tourist Quota
• 7.0.3 Reserved Against Cancellation |RAC
• 7.0.4 Wait List | WL
• 8.1.1 What do you think of Indian train travel? Will it be your next adventure? 
• 9 Train travel in India : Book your train tickets in advance
• 10 Best travel insurance for India

A complete guide for traveling India by train

Types of indian train classes.

A Look inside an Indian Train

Indian Train Travel  Essentials

Booking Train Tickets in India

What if your train is sold out?

2s second class seating.

 These are the cheapest seats offered by India Railways as it is a sitting class. For travelers, this means you are as local as local can be and are on a strict budget. Seats are cushioned and three seats per row. There are no sleeping facilities.

 Sleeper Class

Every time I take a sleeper train , I never regret it. Passengers are simple and no fuss. Cab is either open air and fan vs an AC (so I’m never cold). There’s no bedding, however the berths have cushioned padding. Three berths per side and 6 berths per cabin. By morning, a lot of passengers have already gotten off.    This is a preferred choice for a lot of budget backpackers. It’s not as bad as people think.  Fare: The cheapest and simplest of the sleeper classes, usually around 100 to 600 rupees.

Tip:  The top berth is the best. This is because you can go to sleep as early or wake up as late as you want and you won’t be bothered by others. You can actually just hang out on your perch with on your laptop and surf the internet (given you got an Indian SIM and turned your mobile into a WiFi hotspot ).  Avoid booking the bottom berth seat. This is the sitting berth and your sleep depends upon other your fellow passengers’ sleeping habits.

Third Class (AC-3 class)

AC-3 class is a step above a Sleeper class, except that there’s air conditioning and they give you sheets and blankets for your birth. Fare: I paid around 750- 800 for my seat and up for a seat.  Tip: Same tips apply as with the Sleeper. Fare: Almost double that of a Sleeper class.

Chair Car class (CC A/C class)

CC A/C Chair Car is feels like an air-conditioned seater for business class. During the day, you’ll see Indian men with laptops working or making business calls.  Three seats per row and two rows facing each other over a long table.  Rajdhani and Shatabdi trains (fast speed and air conditioned) are slightly more expensive, but rides come with a simple meal, a drink and a complimentary paper.

First and second class (AC-1  & AC-2)

I’ve never gotten to first or second class frankly. But first class is like paying the cost of airfare. But you’ll get your own lockable cabin of either 2-4 berths depending upon whether you’re a couple or family. The cabin comes with its own wash basin. Second class is a little less expensive and has curtains and lamps per berth privacy.

Read How India books Cheap Tickets.

Inside an Indian Train: 3 different tourist classes (Video)

I take you inside traveling three different Indian train classes !

Essential Tips for Taking Trains in India

Best trains for travelers .

Best trains:   Anything from 1st class to 3AC (ceiling fan and open air), Rajasthani and Shatabdi are fast speed trains with air conditioning and some classes include meals.  They’re a little pricier due to the comfort.   Favorite train for backpackers are t he Sleeper class trains. They’re not as posh, but many backpackers like that they are cheap and decent accommodations. You are sitting with locals but comfortably.  I appreciate the open air, which keeps the air from getting stagnant.

Is taking an Overnight Train in India safe?

 At some point you may find yourself booking overnight trains to make the most efficient use of your time. Overnight trains can run at irregular hours, leaving or arriving at either late at night or early in the morning.  Depending upon the class you may arrive late to your berth to find someone sleeping in it (you need to wake them up and ask them to move. Traveling Indians know when they are wrong– they figure they’ll just keep your berth warm for you until you are ready to use it ).

If you’re booking an overnight train, avoid the bottom berth if you want to go to bed early or sleep until late. This is the seat/berth that everyone sits on and your sleeping times will be determined by other passengers who either want to stay up late or wake up early.  However, usually by around 10am, the overnight train has few passengers as many have gotten off on stops in the morning.

I have never encountered issues with overnight Indian trains.

India train travel tips, safety and etiquette

• Dress conservatively if you don’t want to be leered at. Keep in mind, as a foreign traveler you will stand out. Indians from metropolitan cities are used to seeing foreigners, but small town villagers are more likely to stare.

• Mind your luggage and be polite. Indians are friendly. It is easy to strike up a conversation. If you are a woman striking up a conversation with a man, be a little guarded. Many are friendly but some may take your friendliness as a come-on and a signal of your availability. By all means, do not give your phone number out to them. I did this once thinking of friendship and I got calls every day! Sometimes more than once.

• Some travelers advise taking a backpack chain to fasten your luggage to the berth or window. A lot of passengers get on and off at stops and it’s easy for luggage to get lifted in the shuffle.

Read Indian Sleeper Class and Train Etiquette

Dealing with Crowds at Train Stations

An initial culture shock when I first traveled India were the crowds and you notice them more in the train stations as they wait for trains. It can feel overwhelming– like a homeless shelter with anywhere from urban to village folks with bags, luggage and families waiting or camping out on the station floors. This is acceptable in India.

It is still best to buy your ticket in advance so you don’t have to stand in crowded lines.  The train also has resting rooms with bathroom facilities on the tracks and they tend to be sex segregated to protect women. Some bathrooms have an attendant who will collect money so make sure to have a bit of pocket change.

If I have time, I like to pick up a cold drink and some snacks for the train. Once you get on the train, your food options are limited.

Misconceptions about Indian Trains

There’s a popular misconception that Indian trains are smelly, especially during the summer heats and packed crowds. Personally, the only smelly part of a train I’ve found are the toilets and that is because they lack water for rinsing or flushing. I generally avoid them if I can.  Otherwise, I find the smells normal to a country with spices in foods and in the air. I typically travel in 3AC or Sleeper trains where there’s an open air window you cannot close and powerful overhead fans which keep the air circulating naturally. The 2AC trains are air conditioned so it tends to keep everyone chilled to frozen (just joking although the temperature change can make it feel so).

Should you Buy Indian Train Food?

Packed meals on trains are less than glamorous and don’t expect it to be as tasty, as street food or a restaurant. These cars generally have a chai guy going around and someone who sells chaat or a snack, but it’s still always best to take your own snacks and water.  Your options are very limited on the train.  It is always best to bring your own food on the trains. Options are limited and train food .

Toilets on Indian Trains

If you haven’t used a squat toilet yet, be prepared: All Indian trains have a squat toilet with a hole emptying onto the train tracks (in fact, you can see the tracks moving below, as you pee). Some classes might have a western toilet, but there is never any running water or toilet paper. Any tissues used are disposed of outside or straight onto train tracks through the facility.

Tip: Always pack biodegradable baby wipes, toilet paper and your hand sanitizer.  For women who are still learning to squat, I recommend buying a female urinary device. You can learn more about my first experience here .

Train Etiquette on Indian Trains

How to know when it’s time to sleep or wake? Here’s some tips on train etiquette for India train travel .

Where do you store you luggage on Indian trains

Luggage is stored under the seats. Keep in mind if you are in a cabin with a full family, there may be much luggage under the seats and occasionally on some of the top berths. I try to travel as light as possible so this is not an issue. Some travelers recommend chains to secure their luggage to keep it from being stolen or accidentally taken. I’ve not had a problem so far, but I always travel with my luggage in eye shot or next to me. I keep my valuables in a daypack which I keep with me always (I make it my pillow when I sleep). But especially for overnight travel, when folks leave they take luggage with them and the train makes several local stops along the way.

 How to Book Train Tickets for your trip to India

There are many ways to get around India , and Indian Railways is a popular way for long distance travel for Indians. Alternately, the other ways to cover long distance travel in India is via airplane and government or VIP long distance bus .

Book train tickets online with India Railways

As of May 2016, the Indian Railways (aka IRCTC ) allowed foreigners to book train tickets in advance online. However, that doesn’t mean it works. There’s always been a bit of a snag in the past as foreign credit cards are not accepted by IRCTC and you need an Indian phone number !

In the past, the workaround was to open an account on the IRTC website and then open an account on Cleartrip.com and then attempt to merge the two together, booking through Cleartrip . Both sites are frequently used by Indians to book travel; they show you the bus, airplane and train schedules.  Read more here on my India Travel Tips .

I’ll show you an easier way: Boom!

Book your train tickets in advance from abroad

Book your india train tickets through an indian travel agent.

Booking train travel is easiest when you’re  in India, in-person and you’re booking through a local tourist agent . Often the commission fees you’re paying feels so small and less than an online credit card fee. If you don’t want to go through the hassle of trying to understand India Railways system, its codes or what timetables will work best, a travel agent is a no-brainer. They’re especially good at telling you your options if trains are booked or full.  I use Indian travel agents to book my onward travel most of the time.

Buying your tickets at the train station

You can book train tickets through the train station or an international railway handler (like I did at Fairely Place in Kolkata ). They both are a united agency for India Railways and they’ll help you book your tickets in person, as well as handle things like Wait List, RAC and Foreign Tourist Quota tickets. It’s advised to start out early to beat the queue.

Tatkal, Wait List , Reserved Against Cancellation and Foreign Tourist Quotas are three options if you find your train is booked.

Tatkal Tickets

Tatkal tickets are withheld tickets that get released at 10 am one day before departure. 10 to 500 rupees are added to each ticket price. Tip: Usually travel agents can help you book these.

Foreign Tourist Quota

Like tatkal tickets, India Railways reserves a small quota of tickets for foreign travelers, so if trains are booked and you need to be somewhere, you might try using the foreign tourist quota.

More info>> How to Get a Foreign Tourist Quota ticket

Reserved Against Cancellation |RAC

Reserved Against Cancellation  (RAC) tickets are tickets India Railways puts aside in the case a passenger cancels at the last minute.  On the day of departure, you’ll need to go to the train station and watch the reservation list. Even if there is no cancellation, you might still be able to get on the train, albeit standing class.

Wait List | WL

Wait List  (WL) means you’re waiting for a seat and if there is no cancellation you’ll be refunded.

Sample Train Itineraries and timetables

Most first time travelers to India plan their itinerary thinking they can jump around India in a day via the train system. I always recommend giving your transit route a day and a half of a cushion. India is large and the routes can take longer than you think. Not to mention, occasionally train schedules can be delayed and it’s possible a train could break down.  These are all things to factor into India travel.

Below are train routes I traveled (in my video below ) and the travel time it takes to get around in a large country such as India:

+ AC-3  Kolkata to NJP (enroute to Darjeeling) | 11 hours overnight| 3rd class sleeper train | Uttar Banga Express : Sealdah to New Jalgaipuri Junction + AC-3  Kolkata to Varanasi  | 13.5 hours overnight | 3rd class sleeper train| Vibhuti Express: Howrah to Varanasi Station . (Delhi to Varanasi will similarly be an overnight train as well). + CC   Delhi to Ajmer (enroute to Pushar)  | 7 hours day time  | business class train|Ajmer Shatabdi: New Delhi (NDRLS) to Ajmer Station

Traveling India  Series ( Video playlist): Tips & City Guides for Solo Travelers

Check my “How I Travel India” playlist.  I’ve already covered the inside of Indian trains, how to get a tourist quota, how to get your Sim card.  These are all filmed as I travel through India alone, so you can see the degree of difficulty or not.   I love India but I am certainly not invulnerable to trip difficulties or culture shock.

Trip planning for India ? Start here.

Planning your first trip to India? Start here . What to Pack for India Backpacking? Check here .  Read about how to Get an Indian SIM , do you need a female urinary device? ,  getting an Indian Tourist Visa for U.S. Citizens

Learn the India trip essentials from India scams, dress etiquette, itineraries , accommodations , food insights , how to take the bus, dealing with sexual harassment and indian trains , and staying at ashrams .

What do you think of Indian train travel? Will it be your next adventure? 

Related posts on india:.

First Time Trip Planning for India

Traveling by Indian bus: is it safe for solo travelers? Travel Must Haves for India How to Travel Solo in India Packing tips for India

Train travel in India : Book your train tickets in advance

Best travel insurance for india.

American travelers often pay a premium on travel insurance.  World Nomads offers economic solutions for travelers who seek security and peace of mind.  It covers 150 countries.

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• eSim I’m using to stay connected abroad. Activate it before or on your trip!
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• Trip Insurance Finder Tool for budget travelers looking for trip insurance to fit specific needs.
• I get my adventure trip insurance from World Nomads trip insurance (they cover travel theft)
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• Take your yoga traveling and book a yoga retreat/ training .
• Book hotels  without a cancellation fee. Use this Hotel Comparison Tool to find the lowest prices!
• Book chic hostels with Hostelworld
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• 12goAsia Book trains and buses.
• Discover Cars  finds the best car rental price quote.
• GRRRLTRAVELER Group Adventure trip : Travel with me beyond YouTube.

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Beginners guide to travel India by train: tips and tricks for a smooth experience

India’s railway network is one of the largest and busiest in the world. It can be overwhelming for first-time travellers. With some advance planning and insider knowledge I will help you navigating the railway system. With the beginners guide to travel India by train I will provide you with tips and tricks that will make your train experience in India as smooth as possible. Whether you’re travelling for leisure or business. These practical tips will help you make the most of your journey.

Table of Contents

Plan your journey in advance

The Indian railway system has an extensive network that connects almost every part of the country. It’s essential to plan your journey in advance. You can use the Indian Railways website IRCTC to book your tickets in advance. Second thing to do is to choose the class that best suits your budget and comfort. The IRCTC website offers multiple payment options including net banking, debit card and credit card. If you are a foreigner it’s possible you have to try a few times. For more in-depth tips on how to book tickets I direct you to another article I wrote about the subject: How to book train tickets as a foreigner in India .

Choose the appropriate class

Indian Railways offers various classes of travel. Ranging from the luxurious first-class to the basic sleeper class and the overcrowded second sitting. Tickets of the second sitting never sell out, so be prepared to stand for the entire train journey.  Depending on your budget and comfort level you can choose the appropriate class. If you’re travelling alone or with your partner first class up to the third AC class is a good option. If you’re travelling with your family or in a group, you can opt for a second sleeper class.

Second sitting or general class (GS)

 The general class is the cheapest and most basic class of train travel in India . General class coaches are usually non-air-conditioned and have no seating arrangement. Travellers in general class are expected to stand or sit on the floor, with no space for luggage. The trains in general class are often overcrowded and it is not uncommon to have to push oneself through a sea of people just to get on the train. While travelling in general class is challenging and uncomfortable, it gives travellers a sense of adventure and a taste of Indian culture .

Sleeper Class (SL)

This is the most basic and economical class of train travel in India . The sleeper class is a non-air-conditioned coach with a 72-seat layout in a two-tiered arrangement (upper and lower berth). The sleeping berths are not assigned and it is a first-come, first-serve basis. Sleeper class trains have no bedding or food included. So you have to bring your own food or purchase from hawkers on the train. Sleeper class coaches are usually crowded and noisy with many travellers sitting on the floors or in the aisles during peak seasons.

AC Chair Car (CC)

The AC chair car is a comfortable and economical class of train travel in India . AC chair car coaches are air-conditioned with a 3×3 seating arrangement and comfortable seats. The coaches have overhead luggage racks and legroom to stretch your legs. Blankets are provided for the journey and food can be purchased or pre-ordered onboard.

AC 3 Tier (3A)

The AC 3 tier is a popular class of train travel in India offering travellers a comfortable and hygienic journey. AC 3 tier coaches are air-conditioned with a 3×2 lower and upper berth arrangement and a side berth. The coaches also offer access to some amenities like bedrolls, reading light and charging points. Food is provided by the Indian railway and it is also possible to pre-order specific dietary requirements.

AC 2 Tier (2A)

AC 2 tier is a premium class of train travel offering travellers an exclusive and luxury experience. The AC 2 tier coaches are air-conditioned with a 2×2 lower and upper berth arrangement and a side lower berth. The cabins have curtains for privacy. There are also charging ports, bedrolls, pillows and sometimes lockers for security. Meals are included with this class and the food provided is of good quality, with a focus on regional cuisine.

AC1 Tier (1A)  

AC 1 is the same as AC2 but with more space and depending on the route and/or train they offer 2 or 4 berth arrangements.

Be aware of luggage restrictions

Indian Railways has specific luggage restrictions that you should be aware of. As a general rule you are allowed to carry luggage that does not exceed 75 kg per person in first and second AC class, 50 kg per person in third AC class, and 40 kg per person in sleeper class. If you exceed these limits you may have to pay an extra fee.

Pay attention to safety precautions

It’s always important to take safety precautions while travelling through India’s railway network. Keep your valuables in a safe place and never leave them unattended. Avoid eating or drinking anything from strangers and be cautious of pickpocketing and theft. Always confirm your seat/berth when boarding the train and never open the door to strangers.

Embrace the journey

Travelling by train in India can be a pleasant and unique experience. You’ll see stunning landscapes, bustling cities and colourful countryside along the way. Be open-minded, flexible and embrace the journey. You’ll have the opportunity to meet locals, make new friends and learn about India’s rich culture and traditions.

Cost effective

India’s railway network is an efficient and cost-effective mode of transportation offering travellers an opportunity to see the country in a unique way. With these tips and tricks you can navigate the system like a pro. Remember to plan in advance, choose the appropriate class, be mindful of luggage restrictions and safety precautions. Embrace the hectic but unique journey.

Best way to book train tickets online

The beginners guide to travel India by train also gives away a secret insider tip on how to easily book train tickets online. When booking train tickets many people face challenges such as website crashes, complicated interfaces and payment hurdles. 12Go solves these issues by streamlining the entire booking process. Customers can easily search for trains and available schedules on the platform’s user-friendly pages. Once you have selected your preferred train and compartment, 12Go will guide you through the payment process. They accepts various forms of payment such as credit cards, bank transfers and e-wallets. With 12Go booking train tickets in India is a simple and speedy process.

Monumental highlights to visit in India

Explore the rich culture and history of India with our  comprehensive travel guide ! Discover valuable tips, top destinations and useful links to other India-related articles. Immerse yourself in the  Indian culture and Hinduism with our beginner’s guide , which covers customs, etiquette and key Hindu gods. Or learn more about the lesser-known religion,  Jainism .

Are you looking for travel inspiration? Consider a visit to the enchanting City of Lakes,  Udaipur , or indulge in a shopping spree in  Jaipur . Or discover the  majestic palaces of Rajasthan . Marvel at the colonial architecture of  Kochi  in Kerala or explore historical temples, palaces and ruins in  Hampi . Let India’s wonders captivate you!

One of my latest articles is about  The most fascinating festivals and celebrations in India . Or read more about sustainable travel India:  How to get around in India as an eco-conscious tourist .

Ayurveda in India

Are you familiar with Ayurveda? This ancient Indian healing system has gained global popularity for its natural and holistic approach to health and wellness. Ayurveda encompasses more than just a practice. It’s a way of life that emphasizes the importance of balance and harmony for optimal health. Allow me to delve deeper into what Ayurveda entails, its origins and the reasons behind its growing popularity in recent years. Read the article Unlocking the secrets of Ayurveda: A healing tradition from India to learn more.

Hola, I'm Adriana. I'm Dutch and living in Antwerp, Belgium. After graduating from university I went to Nepal for one month. Somehow this short trip became a 18-month journey in Asia and I spend most of that time in the incredible and hectic subcontinent of India...😁

I work as freelance chef in Belgium. And sometimes as TripLeader for JoinMyTrip. Would you like to join me on one of my trips? Go to the page JoinMyTrip and check out upcoming trips.💚

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The 9 most scenic train journeys in India

By Tvisha Sharma and Toshita Sahni

Air travel may seem more convenient and time-effective, but it cannot replace the undeniable charm of travelling by train. One of the most enjoyable parts of train journeys is sitting by the window and taking in the beauty of the landscape while sipping a hot beverage. In those moments, with hills, forests, brooks and villages rolling by your window, the world slips away, and peace reigns for a little while. If you want to experience this kind of serenity, there are many routes you can take, as India boasts of an extensive railway network. Here’s a look at some of the prettiest train journeys in the country:

Himalayan Queen

Also known as the Kalka-Shimla ‘toy train,’ the Himalayan Queen features in the Guinness Book of World Records as the tracks stretch across the steepest altitude. From your vantage point up high, you will get a glimpse of picturesque pine forests, deep valleys and small towns along the way. This seven-coach train covers a distance of 96km, crossing 82 bridges and 102 tunnels. In 2008, UNESCO added the Kalka-Shimla railway line to its Mountain Railways of India World Heritage site.

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, this train runs from Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling in West Bengal. As you travel at an altitude of more than 2000m, you will be treated to stunning views of sprawling tea plantations and the breathtaking Mt. Kanchenjunga. The route is famous for its loops, where the train turns in a full circle and thus climbs 20ft higher.

Kashmir Valley Railway

A train passing by the Pulwama district in Kashmir.

On this trip from Jammu to Baramulla, feast your eyes on the snowy mountainscapes of the region. This is actually one of the most challenging tracks built by the Indian Railways. The train passes through many earthquake zones, high-altitude mountain passes and rocky terrains.

Sethu Express

Pamban Bridge

If you don’t want a mountainous journey, choose this train that goes from Chennai to Rameswaram in less than 12 hours. You will get the opportunity to traverse the sea, as the route includes crossing the Pamban Bridge—the second-longest in India—built over the water.  You may recognise it from the 2013 Bollywood film Chennai Express .

Konkan Railway

Shikha Tripathi

Arundhati Ail

This iconic railway line mainly connects Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka. Get ready to enjoy the varied sights outside your window: the Sahyadri mountains, the Arabian Sea, lakes and waterfalls. A classic choice for travellers going from Mumbai to Goa is the  Mandovi Express . The train travels through 92 tunnels and 2,000 bridges, including the Panvalnadi bridge, which is one of the highest in India. With landscapes covered in lush greenery, a Konkan Railway journey is a treat, especially during the monsoon season.

Goa Express

For an awe-inspiring glimpse of Dudhsagar Falls, take this train from Vasco de Gama in Goa to Londa, Karnataka. It crosses the bridge over that massive waterfall in the early evening, so keep an eye out. The journey is less than 4 hours long and takes you through the charming Western Ghats and serene beaches.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

If you want to travel by the train where the popular song ‘ Chaiya Chaiya’ was filmed,  choose this one from Mettupalayam to Ooty. You will have lots of time to enjoy the gorgeous views of forests and plantations, as this ‘toy’ train takes around 5h to cover 46km. Considered “the  slowest train  in India”, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway has the steepest gradient of any railway line in South Asia, climbing from an elevation of 325m to 2,240m along the way.

Kollam-Sengottai Chord Line

For another amazing south Indian experience, take this train from Kollam Junction in Kerala to Sengottai in Tamil Nadu. You will see moss-covered bridges, untouched forests and Kerala’s cardamom hills. The route also takes you over the Pathimoonnu Kannara Bridge, or the 13 Arch Bridge, which is more than 100 years old.

Bhubaneswar to Brahmapur

Many trains run along this specific route, like the Intercity Express, Prashanti Express, Konark Express and the famous Howrah-Chennai Mail. The most attractive highlight of the journey is Lake Chilika, the second-largest in the country and a popular destination for birdwatchers. As your train passes by, you can often spot different species of birds quenching their thirst in the lake. Don’t forget to sit on the left side of the train going southward to catch the best views.

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Worried about taking the train in India? Don’t be. Here’s our complete guide.

• By Sarah Steiner
• Updated On July 29, 2023

Have you even really been to India if you haven’t taken an Indian train? Train travel in India is more than just a means of transport.  It truly is part of the culture and experience of travel in India. 

The India train network spans 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations so it’s fairly safe to say you can travel between almost any two destinations in India by train.

I’m going to detail an entire travel guide to India trains below. But the first piece of advice I have to share is simply; take the train.

Don’t be afraid of taking trains in India.  Don’t be worried they’re crowded or that you might not understand where to get on or off.  Taking a train in India is an entire experience. 

• Where to start?  
• Booking tickets  
• Classes of train travel
• How much does it cost?  

Car and carriage numbering

• Facilities on board
• Indian train stations

Train travel in India with kids

• Questions (and answers) about train travel in India
• Download the right apps  

Do you need a reservation?

Yes, you definitely need a reservation for train travel in India.  Trains often get booked out weeks or even months in advance.  

It used to be common that some trains had a reserved Foreign Tourist Quota (seats reserved for tourists making last minute reservations to important destinations) but with the advancement of online bookings this can’t be counted on.  I recommend making your booking as far in advance as possible.  

Booking tickets for train travel in India

Because trains in India get booked in advance I recommend buying tickets online before you travel. 

If you have a contact or friend in India it might be easier to book through them ahead of time.  Otherwise there are essentially 3 options for you to book train travel in India: 

• Go to a railway station and  book in person  when you arrive
• Book online  directly  from Indian Railways  at the IRCTC website   www.irctc.co.in
• Book online through  third party 12GoAsia . 

Booking  online through ticketing agency  12go.asia  is without doubt the easiest and most straightforward option .  This is the option we used to book all our train travel in India. But I will detail both online options below. 

Online option 1: Book online directly from Indian Railways IRCTC website

This is not the most straightforward option but once you are registered you’ll have access to all routes, trains, classes and ticket types at a lower cost than booking through a third party.  (This is a less reviewed way of booking train travel in India as up until 2016 IRCTC did not accept international credit cards).  

However (in theory) it works now from overseas.  

• First you need to register an account with IRCTC. Go to  www.irctc.co.in  and click  REGISTER  top right. Enter the details to create an account.
• Choose a username and enter your mobile number with country code (it will now accept international country codes). 
• Check your emails for the Online Rail Ticket Reservation User Registration Confirmation.  Click the link to activate your account and enter your chosen ID and password to log in.  
• Fill in the destination and boarding point along with the date of desired journey.  
• Check the list of times and options for different classes of train travel and select your choice.  A new window opens for filling the required passenger details.  
• Make your payment through the preferred payment gateway. 
• Check your emails for a message of confirmation and your electronic ticket details.  

Online option 2: Book through 12GoAsia

This is the quickest and most reliable booking option we have found.  Albeit you do need to pay a bit extra for the booking fee.  But for sure the ease of service and reliability of this option makes it worth it. 

The website is very straightforward. Enter your destination details and desired date of journey and the different timing options and classes will be displayed if available.  

Your electronic ticket will be emailed to you.  

This is all you need to show at the train station and/or to the guard or attendant on board. 

Understanding  classes  of train travel in India

There are 8 classes of seats and accommodation to purchase for train travel in India. Not all of them are available on every train.  

We have tried nearly all classes now and can recommend different options for distances and comfort (and adventure) around India.  

These are the train classes listed below in descending order according to price per fare. 

First  Class  (1A)

This is the most expensive class of train travel in India.  There are 4-berth cabins and 2-berth coupes available on popular routes.  The main difference between this class and 2-Tier AC is that First Class has a lockable cabin door for complete privacy. 

Second AC / 2-Tier AC (2A)

A comfortable class for overnight travel.  2-Tier AC has 4 berths per cabin with bedding provided.  The only shortfall on 2A class is that it lacks a lockable door on the cabin (a curtain is provided instead). 

Third AC / 3-Tier AC (3A)

Air-conditioned coach cabin with 64 berths per carriage.  The bottom berth is folded down during the day (with 3 numbers above each seating space) for seated travel.  Bedding is provided.  

Sleeper Class (SL)

The most common class of train travel in India. Sleeper (SL) has regular sleeping coaches with three berths vertically facing each other but without any air conditioning.

This is probably our favourite train travel experience in India.  I would recommend Sleeper for an early morning and short distance journey purely for the experience. 

AC Executive chair class (EC)

A seated air-conditioned class with four seats in a row and spacious seating and legroom.  AC Executive Chair Class is now only found on the popular  Shatabdi Express ,  Vande Bharat Express  & Tejas Express  trains. 

Seated AC / AC Chair Car (CC)

Air-conditioned coach with five seats in a row. 

General / Second Class Seats (2S, II)

Open plan cars with wooden or padded plastic seats.  This is the most basic and cheapest class of travel (recommended for short daytime journeys when you’re feeling up for it).  Seats are often non-reserved so you will need to join the rush on entering 2S…  

How much does it cost to ride trains in India? 

Fares vary for train travel in India depending on class and distance (obviously).  And ticket prices will also be higher booking through a third party (like 12GoAsia).  

Here are example ticket prices for the popular 3-hour(ish) train journey New Delhi to Agra : 

• First Class (1A): 1510 INR
• Extended AC Chair (EC): 1285 INR
• 2-Tier AC (2a): 945 INR
• 3-Tier AC (3A): 740 INR
• AC Chair Class (CC): 640 INR
• Sleeper (SL): 242 INR

Navigating Indian train stations

This almost warrants documenting as an entire adventure in itself.  Navigating Indian train stations can be intense. But there are also smaller stations and stops where you will be offered help and food and a place to sit (even if you weren’t looking for it).

For us, we started off this trip departing from Kolkata Railway Station (Howrah) which is enormous.  But it functions like clockwork with systems that have been improved upon and working for decades.  (Albeit that is if you can find your name on the typewriter-printed paper charts pinned to wall to allocate seating!).  

Smaller stations (like Jodhpur, Jaisalmer etc) give you a bit of breathing room to understand how an Indian train station functions. 

There are ticket booking lines, electronic arrival and departure screens, an enquiry booth, security checks, shops and stalls, bathrooms, waiting rooms and the sound of chai wallahs making their call.  

And there is often a waiting room for customers booked in any of the AC classes.  This will be signposted but otherwise ask at an enquiry counter (or any security guard will point you in the right direction).  It is sometimes called a ‘retiring room’… 

This is important.  (Learn from our mistakes here).  Coaches/carriages on longer distance Indian trains are numbered according to class like this: 

• AC1 : Car H1, H2, H3 (1, 2 and 3 are the number of coaches of that class on the train)
• 2A/2-Tier:  Car A1, A2, A3 etc.
• 3A/3-Tier:  Car B1, B2, B3 etc.
• AC Chair Car:  Car C1, C2, C3 etc.
• Sleeper/SL:  Car S1, S2, S3 etc. 

So for example, if you have booked a 3-Tier AC ticket your booking status will show: 

• B2/25/Lower

Where B2 is the car number and 25 is the seat number (lower berth).

Each carriage/car is labelled on the outside with the according number (eg. B1 or B2) and some stations have electronic boards above the platform to let you know which car is lined up at that spot on the platform. 

We underestimated the importance of getting on the correct train car in Jodhpur on our first trip. We saw ‘2-Tier’ and just jumped on.  The  Ranikhet Express  has over 24 carriages and it’s a long way to run with two backpacks on and two kids in tow to find your correct car as the train signal is sounding!  

Check your ticket ahead of time and determine your  Car Number , Class  and  Seat .

Travelling in India with kids adds to the adventure.  You need to have your wits about you navigating busy train stations (but that’s pretty standard advice for travel with children in general).  

There is a discount for purchasing a child ticket on Indian trains, but unless your child is very young (and small in size) I recommend booking a full ticket and entire berth or seat.  

Plan ahead and bring snacks and water.  There are stops along the way and attendants selling small juices, water and food as you go.  But it’s a given rule to always be prepared with snacks for the kids. 

Bring toilet paper and wet-wipes or soap to make efforts for hygiene even on Indian trains.  Little hands touch all kinds of things and it will give you peace of mind to know you are at least making all attempts to keep things as hygienic as possible. 

What about food on long trains?

On long distance trains there will often be the option to purchase the food-included option when buying your ticket online.  But don’t panic it you can’t see this option available.  

There aren’t restaurant of buffet cars on Indian Railways but on long distance trains there are plenty of train attendants who will come to your cabin or car and ask if you would like to order food.  

The attendant may come by with the box of food for breakfast (our experience travelling long distance train Kolkata to Mumbai).  And for lunch and dinner the attendant will come by earlier and take your order. 

It is not expensive and will likely have a veg/non-veg option to choose from. 

For snacks, drinks, water and chai on the popular routes the attendants come through the cars regularly selling different options for a few rupees.

What are the facilities like?

As above, the facilities available on different train lines and in stations are varied depending on which class you are travelling.  And which train station you are stopping at. 

In our experience, the AC classes (1A, 2AC, 3AC) have two toilets in each carriage.  One western style toilet and one squat toilet.  There should be water to wash your hands but unless you are in First Class there almost definitely won’t be toilet paper provided. (Plan ahead with that one). 

Train stations also have varied toilet facilities, waiting rooms and shops selling everything from wet-wipes to water and colouring-in books for kids.  

It really depends on the size of city and station.  But if you have any doubts or questions, don’t be afraid to ask someone for help. 

What are the toilets like?

I’m not going to lie.  We were nervous about this aspect of train travel in India but I can honestly say the toilet experience turned out to be better/less-disappointing than we dared anticipate.  (Perhaps we are getting concerningly more seasoned?!). 

Train toilet facilities are pretty much as expected.  Basic but functional and varying by class and capacity.  

Each carriage has 1-2 toilets and in 1A and 2A there is often one western option.  There isn’t likely soap and/or toilet paper (be prepared with that).  But because tickets are pre-purchased in the AC carriages and seating is assigned there isn’t a problem of over-crowding.  

And thankfully(?) because of this and due to the fact that the toilets are so basic they are usually in reasonably sanitary condition.

Can you leave the train to buy water and snacks? 

This always a worry.  In theory the latest IXIGO app should indicate how long a stop will be at a station.  But we found it more reliable the old fashioned way and asked the nearest guard (or passenger) if we had time to run and grab snacks. 

Otherwise don’t stress yourself about missing the train or being left behind in the middle of rural India somewhere.  Each train we have travelled on has friendly chai wallah’s that will sound out their call throughout the train, “ Chai, chai, pani, chai… ”.  

Just go with what is on offer and enjoy the adventure!

Recharging mobiles and devices

There are shaver sockets in 1A, 2A and 3A sleeper cars which can be used to recharge mobile phones and devices.  The sockets sometimes do work…

What are the beds and sheets like? 

In 1A, 2A and 3A fresh sheets and pillowcases are provided for anything above a medium distance journey.  They have been bleached and pressed to perfection and come packaged per passenger in a paper bag.  

The beds are basic berths as the pictures depict.  It’s hot up on the top bunk in Sleeper Class but in AC the temperature is controlled and it is a comfortable way to travel. 

The bed length is standard and long enough (even for us as tall NZ-travellers) to sleep comfortably.  And there is ample storage under the bottom bunk for luggage. 

Do the trains run on time?

India has a massive railway network and many different types of train (local, express, long-distance) so punctuality can’t always be relied on.  Perhaps we were lucky, but in our experience each of the trains we have taken departed right on time.  

The IXIGO app is useful for checking the status of your train departure.  

How do you know where to get off?

Station nameboards are clearly shown at every station.  If you have service on your mobile you can check ahead on Google Maps (I called this the old fashioned way before we braved the app).  But the app actually has an alarm that can be set to warn you when your station is coming up. 

Otherwise, ask someone in your carriage.  People are friendly and happy to help.  (The chances are you won’t even have to ask and people will give you a heads up you are nearly at your station).  

Useful apps to download for train travel in India

There are many (far too many) different apps for train travel in India including plenty of third party apps.  We recommend the IRCTC app or Ixigo; both are available for iPhone and android.  

IRCTC Connect

With this app you can check train schedules between destinations and input your PNR to check the status of your booking (and timing of your train).  The app has real-time details of whether your train is running on schedule and will tell you which platform you are departing from. 

IXIGO Indian Rail App

This is the official Rail info app of Ixigo.com travel planner website. It provides most of the information required to plan a train journey in India allowing you to check the trains for your destination, ticket availability etc. You can book tickets on IRCTC from within this Ixigo app for all your train journeys.

Enjoy the adventure that is train travel in India !

The most important tip for train travel in India is simply to enjoy your Indian train travel journey!  

Depending on what sort of experience you are looking for you might find your favourite class of train for travel in India surprises you… 

But regardless of destination and class the journey is an adventure.   You’ll meet locals, try new snacks and you can relax while the Indian countryside rolls on by. 

Enjoy the adventure of train travel in India! 

Where we stayed in India

• Kochi:   Hotel Abad Plaza [good location next to mall with supermarket. Multiple restaurants on site; huge buffet breakfast. Swimming pool. Note this hotel is not in the old city of Kochi ]. 
• Varanasi:   Hotel Temple on Ganges [great location; basic rooms and restaurant. Close to Assi Ghat – good location to explore Varanasi from]. 
• Jaisalmer:   The Wanderlust Guesthouse [AMAZING guest-house! We loved staying here and can highly recommend. Great rooms; rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort; awesome camel safaris!
• New Delhi:   Hotel Hari Piorko [good location in the heart of the Main Bazaar, Delhi; close to restaurants and train station. No view from rooms]. 

• Kolkata:   Hotel Golden Palace  [close to New Market with very friendly service and a great in-house room service restaurant]. 
• Mumbai:   Gulf Hotel [good location in Colaba few mins walk to Gateway of India. Basic rooms (and very old elevator) and very basic breakfast included. Also  lots  of (questionably so?) mirrors]. 
• Jodhpur:   Raj Mandir Boutique Homestay  [good location in Blue City, spacious room with small balcony inside Haveli style home. Tiny little doors, lots of unique decor and artefacts].
• Jaipur:  Jaipur Haveli  [incredible old haveli home in heart of Jaipur. Highly recommend; beautiful rooms; great attention to detail and very friendly staff and owners]. 
• Agra:   Aman Homestay  [very friendly family-run homestay with rooftop views of The Taj Mahal. Great rickshaw driver service and home cooked meals].
• Delhi:  Smyle Inn  [extremely basic hotel in small back alley. Very friendly, helpful staff and simple breakfast included. Just off Main Bazaar]. 

More about travel planning for India and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

• Booking.com  – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
• Hostelworld – The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world. 
• Skyscanner   – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
• GetYourGuide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
• SafetyWing  – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
• World Nomads   – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before riding those trains in India!

Read more from travel in South Asia

• Taking an overnight train in Pakistan from Islamabad to Karachi. 
• How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
• Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan. 
• Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan. 
• Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
• How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
• Our complete packing list for travel in India. 

Wondering about itineraries?  Questions about schooling?  See our Family Travel Guides and FAQ here . 

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3 thoughts on “Worried about taking the train in India? Don’t be. Here’s our complete guide.”

CC class in a train stands for AC Chair Car. It is a type of train car that features seats arranged in rows, similar to those found in an airplane. These seats might not lean back, and they might not have their own screens.CC class is usually found in long distance trains and is considered as a more comfortable option compared to other classes like general compartment or sleeper. https://www.letsdiskuss.com/what-is-cc-class-in-a-train

Thank you for your clear information ….from an Indian abroad travelling all around India by train very shortly. Much appreciated

I love train travel. It’s a great feeling to watch that scenery slowly, I will take your suggestions into consideration, I read your article with pleasure .

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Global Gallivanting

The ultimate guide to train travel in india: including how to book train tickets from abroad..

My Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in India

The best way to travel India is by the vast, and great value, Indian Railways network and traveling on Indian railways is an essential Indian bucket list experience in itself.

However, this massive system can be confusing to navigate at first and tickets can get booked up way in advance and can be difficult to book from abroad.

But never fear, read on and I’ll explain everything you need to know in this ultimate guide to train travel in India including how to book train tickets in India (even from abroad) and all the tips you need for traveling by train in India

I’ve been traveling around India independently, on a budget, and mostly as a solo female traveler since 2013. In my ultimate guide to train travel in India I’ll introduce you to Indian Railways and guide you through how to book train tickets in India.

As Indian trains get fully booked weeks and months in advance, I will also show you how to book train tickets in India in advance even from abroad to ensure a smooth trip.

I will explain all the different ticket types and 8 classes found on Indian Railways. Do you need to know what a Taktal ticket is? What is the different between AC2 and AC3? Should you join a Wait List? Is sleeper class really that bad? All the answers are here…

I’ve also written down all my tips for traveling by rail in India and answered your questions and queries about how to find your seat, food, safety, scams and of course the state of the toilets on Indian trains!

It’s a long post (Indian Railways is one of the largest and busiest rail networks in the world after all!) so grab a chai and settle down and I’ll explain all you need to know about train travel in India!

Indian Rail Travel Explained

India is a huge country with an amazing diversity of sights but vast distances mean that when planning a trip to India you need to give some thought about how you are going to get around.

India offers multiple ways to get around (albeit often slowly) this massive sub continent, you can get transport to pretty much every corner of India for a very affordable price, but you need patience because getting anywhere in India always takes  longer than you think.

My main advice is always to take it slow – Everything seems to take a lot longer than you think and trying to cram too much in often leads to a stressful and frustrating trip that is hard to enjoy.

Read More: 5 Common mistakes travellers often make when visiting India for the 1st time

Why take the train instead of the bus?

Train travel is very popular because the roads in India are often poor, traffic can be chaotic and buses rickety so the best way to get around the huge and diverse country of India is by train.

Of course, you could take the bus – buses in India range from bone shakers that you can’t believe are still in one piece and running to ‘delux AC’ buses that are just about reasonably comfortable.

Still, taking the train is so much more comfortable in India and the scenery is usually better. After a  nightmare sleeper bus ride ( it was like being in a coffin on a roller coaster) from Mumbai to Goa on my first trip to India I always prefer train travel in India now, especially on longer journeys.

The Indian railways network is one of the largest in the world and stretches to almost every corner of this amazing and diverse country and ticket fares are incredibly good value. With over 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations you can get to pretty much every town or city in India by rail.

Indian Railways is the third biggest passenger rail network in the world (after Russia and China) and the busiest in terms of passengers. About 23 million people travel regularly by train in India and Indian Railways employs over 1.5 million staff making it one of the world’s biggest employers.

There are over 10,000 locomotives with over 67,ooo passenger coaches covering over 66,0o0 Kms across the country. If you laid out all the railway tracks in India in one straight line they would circle the earth about 1.5 times!

Indian train journeys don’t get boring, you’ll see all sorts going on both inside and outside the train and its a unique and culturally immersive experience that you won’t want to miss.

But in the world’s most densely populated country seats on Indian trains sell out fast , especially for popular routes in the peak tourist season you can find trains booked up weeks or even months ahead which could put a real delay on your travel plans! Which means arranging your train tickets should be on your ‘to do’ list as you prepare for your trip to India. 

Read More India travel blogs:

• My Complete Guide to Planning your First Trip to India
• My complete guide to getting a tourist visa for India

How to book train tickets for Indian railways in advance?

As train travel in India is so popular I always advise people to book their train tickets in advance , there are many ways that you can book a train ticket in India but if you are expecting to be able to arrive and hop on and hop off then you will be disappointed.

You will need a reservation for all Indian Railways long distance trains , except if traveling in unreserved second class which I wouldn’t recommend (although it’s often not as bad as you this! …)

There are several ways that you can buy an Indian train ticket  – online, at a travel agency or Indian Railways booking counter.

Update! You can now also book some (but not all routes are available)  Indian Railway tickets online at Bookaway

Due to the high demand for train travel in India tickets for Indian trains can be booked up to 120 days in advance.

To make your trip to India more enjoyable and less stressful I recommend you book your tickets in advance, especially if you have a limited amount of time to spend traveling India and a packed itinerary of places you want to see.

If you want to find out the earliest date that a train is available you can look on www.indianrail.gov.in and click ‘Availability at major stations’ then ‘Earliest date of available berths’ you can see the next date on which berths are available on key trains leaving each of the most important stations.

So now you can see why you need to book train tickets in advance! But booking trains from outside India is not so easy….

Where to book tickets for Indian trains:

Use a travel agent like india someday.

The easiest way by far to book train tickets from abroad is by using the services of a travel agent. India Someday are expert trip planners, and I’ve had great experiences travelling with them before so now I always use  India Someday to book my train tickets. They charge a small service fee but it takes away all the hassle and stress of booking train tickets and ensure you get the right trains to make your trip run smoothly.

India Someday can also help with all aspect of planning a trip around India, advising on the best routes to take, accommodation and all transport options. Global Gallivanting readers can also get 5% off the trip planning fee by using the code GLOBALGALLIVANTING5 when enquiring. Contact them through their website.

IRCTC Website

Online reservations can be made on the official government IRCTC Online Passenger Reservation website . I don’t find the IRCTC website very user friendly. It is slow and temperamental – often the service is unavailable although sometimes if you keep trying it will work eventually.

It’s also not so simple to use – first you need to know the number of the train you want to book instead of being able to search and book by destination (and importantly checking availability) and it also does not accept most foreign cards and can be hassle to set up an account without an Indian mobile number.( see here how to get an Indian sim card )

A much easier way to arrange your train travel in India and book trains, even from abroad, is to use a website like Cleartrip.com to search and book trains.

Their website is much more user friendly and easier to use. There is even an app you can get on your phone and, once your account is set up, this is probably the simplest way to book trains – it’s actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it!

Most importantly you can pay with an international card . However they do charge a small service fee and not all trains are displayed, you can now book Taktal tickets online but you can’t book the Foreign Tourist Quota through these websites.

How to set up a Clear Trip Account

To set up a Clear Trip account IRCTC has insisted that you must also sign up for an IRCTC account. When you register with Clear Trip it will set both accounts up for you, but IRCTC requires an Indian mobile phone number.

This makes it a little difficult to set up the account before you arrive in India but it is possible – you  can set up a Clear Trip account before you arrive without an Indian mobile number but, as with most things in India, patience and persistence are required.

Read More: How to get a local sim card in India

Read More: My Mumbai Travel Guide: The best places to visit, stay and eat.

To set up a Clear Trip account go through the normal process to set up an account, where it asks you to enter an Indian mobile number and zip code you will need to just make these up.

To make up an Indian mobile number it’s 10 digits and usually starts with 9, but you can’t use a mobile number that has already been used before so you might have to try a few combinations.

Then make up a numerical zip code (doesn’t work if you put in a UK style postcode) but make sure you change your country from India to UK or US or wherever and then finish the registration.

Then you should get an confirmation email with an Email OTP (Email One Time Password).  Now send an email back to IRCTC customer care, attach a scan of your passport, quote your IRCTC user name and ask them to send you the SMS OTP by email.

It could take a few days or you may have to chase them for a while. Once you get the password then you can verify and activate your account on Clear Trip and enter the Email or SMS OTP and then you are ready to book train tickets and enjoy train travel in India!

There is more detailed information of this process on the really useful website – the Man in Seat 61 

It’s a bit annoying but train travel in India really is the best way to travel here and so it’s worth it to book in advance and avoid the hassles of trying to get train tickets once you arrive.

Once you’ve got your Clear Trip account set up and the app on your phone it’s actually pretty easy to book train tickets! Just search the trains on the route you want to go, check the availability of the trains and book. Your ticket details will also be saved on the app and you can show it to the conductor – this is how I book most of my train travel in India.

Use a travel agency or ask a friend

If you have a friend in India you could ask them to book the train tickets for you and forward you the ticket by email. If not, if you want to avoid hassle and don’t mind paying a bit more you could ask a reputable travel agency or a train travel specialist to sort out your train bookings.

I recently traveled through North India for 12 days and used a great company called India Someday  to help plan my itinerary and book trains and homestays along the way ( read about it here )

India Someday are a young, energetic and resourceful travel company based in Mumbai (Bombay) who are experts on India and can assist you in booking trains and other transport as part of planning a complete well thought out, personalized trip to India.

They even offer Global Gallivanting readers 5% off just use the code GLOBALGALLIVANTING5.  Contact them through the India Someday website. 

Read More: My review of traveling with India Someday

Read More: Tips for women traveling in India

If you prefer your train travel in India to be more luxurious then there are even some ultra luxury tourist train routes in India , escorted group trips by train and rail passes.

There is an IndRail Pass option where you can buy the pass and ask them to make all the reservations you want to go with it, free of charge.

However, I’ve never tried this as I prefer to stay flexible and travel slow. Using a rail pass would most likely be more expensive than booking point to point tickets and to get your money’s worth you would have to have quite rushed and busy itinerary that was all pre booked. I

f you only had a short time to explore India and wanted to have everything pre arranged then this might be an option.

Read More: The perfect route and itinerary for backpacking India

Tips for booking train tickets in India

Train travel in India, like everything else in India, always throws up some surprises, here are a few more tips and things you should be aware of when traveling by train in India.

Whether you use IRCTC or an app like Clear Trip the Indian railways online booking service closes for maintenance each day between 23:30-00:30 Indian time ( 18:00-19:00 GMT)

Sometimes the system is overloaded with visitors or just randomly won’t work, shows an error or no trains available – as with everything in India be patient and persistent, refresh the screen and keep trying and it should work in the end!

The system only shows direct train routes. If your search does not come with any train then maybe it is because there is not a direct train to your destination the system cannot calculate a journey where you have to change trains, you have to find a station where you can change and make the booking separately as 2 tickets.

Most places in India have 2 names – the old colonial names and the newer more ‘Indianised’ names. If you are having trouble with the destination try the other spelling! Usually it uses the Indian name but sometimes, for example Trivandrum is still used instead of Thiruvananthapuram, Bengaluru uses the old name Bangalore.

Also, sometimes the name of the railway station is not necessarily the same name of the city. For example, the main railway station (and one of the busiest) in Kolkata/Calcutta is called Howrah so you would need to type this in.

Also, many major cities have more than one train station – a search for trains from Mumbai will bring up stations like Lokmanya Tilak, Navi Mumbai or Thane which are actually pretty far away from the main re where travelers stay.

The main station in Mumbai is CST, in Delhi the main station is New Delhi, but there are also many others. For Goa, the main train station is Madgaon/ Margao.

For stress free train travel in India and to book trains you will need to first have a little geographical knowledge of India, to help you you can can check the Indian Railways Trains at a Glance timetable. 

Read More: 8 useful apps to make traveling by train in India easier 

How to get a train ticket at the station in India

The main stations in big cities and tourist centres, such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi (and 24hrs at Delhi International Airport)  have a separate booking office for foreign travellers called an International Tourist Bureau that you will need to visit if you want to get a last minute ticket from the foreign tourist quota.

Make sure you bring your passport, visa and cash and make sure you go to the right one! Don’t believe anyone that comes up to you claiming that it has closed, moved, burnt down, all trains are cancelled or whatever else! This is a scam to get you to go to their travel agency which may or may not even be able to provide the services but will certainly over charge you!

There is a list of stations with an International Tourist Bureau at www.indianrail.gov.in under the Information and International Tourist tabs. You could try your luck at a smaller station that has an international tourist reservation bureau as it may be less hassle and less waiting.

Either way, to apply for a tourist quota ticket you cannot get these online, you will need to go in, fill out a form showing where you want to go, show your passport and visa, wait and hope that there is a ticket available in the next couple of days for where you want to travel to.

You can only pay in cash with US dollars, UK pounds, Euros, or Indian rupees and you may need to show an encashment certificate, ATM receipt or something that shows that you obtained this cash in a proper, legal way.

Read More: My Mysore Travel Guide: The best places to visit, stay and eat

So now you know how to book your ticket, read on to know which class to book…

Indian Railway Classes Explained

When you are booking train tickets in India, first you will need to understand what class you want to travel and what type of ticket you have.

The array of  8 classes on Indian trains  can seem bewildering at first, although only a selection of these classes will be available on any given train, but let me break it down for you:

(AC1 or 1A) – Air conditioned first class

These can be sleepers or executive chair class and are a comfortable way to travel with lockable compartments in 2 or 4 berths available. However, there are not many carriages of these class and they are not found on every train. Also, the price is double the cost of AC2 and often comparable to a domestic flight.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 2,640  ( £26 / US$40 )

(AC2 or 2A) – Air conditioned 2-tier

AC2 is a comfortable and relatively clean way to travel and favoured by most middle class families. AC carriages (and the non air conditioned sleeper carriages) with upper, middle and lower bunks arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle, and along the coach wall in bays of two (upper and lower) on the other side of the aisle. The bench style padded seats convert into bunks at night.

In the AC carriages, pillows, sheets and blankets are provided for overnight journeys and you also get plug sockets. On AC trains the windows are sealed and tinted this means not so much dust gets in so they are cleaner than sleeper class but the windows are often quite dirty so not good for gazing out at the countryside or taking photos. It’s also a good idea to take a fleece or jumper for the AC carriages too as sometimes I find these too cold.

The main difference between AC2 and AC3 is that there are only 2 levels of bunks instead of 3, so it feels a bit less crowded, and that AC2 has individual berth lights curtains allowing for a bit of privacy.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 1,580 ( £15 / US$ 25 )

(AC3 or 3A)- Air conditioned 3-tier

AC3 is very similar to AC2 with an open plan and air conditioned carriage with three tiers of bunks instead of 2 and is slightly cheaper. Bedding and plug sockets are provided and the windows are sealed but there are no privacy curtains. Normally the AC carriages are a bit cleaner and the berths are better padded than in sleeper class.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 1,120 ( £11 / US$ 17 )

(SL) Sleeper Class

Sleeper class coaches make up the majority of carriages on most long distance Indian trains and this is how most Indians travel.

The bunks are similar to those mentioned before in the AC carriages expect that, instead of air conditioning, there are fans and the windows are open providing a cool breeze and a good view of the countryside that’s better for taking photos!

The windows are fitted with bars to keep out intruders and have shutters you can bring down if it rains. There is also no bedding provided and it’s pretty grubby so you will probably want to bring your own sheet or sleeping bag.

When traveling in the winter (the best time to travel in India)  I find that I don’t need air conditioning – actually the AC is often too cold for me and the temperature in sleeper class once the train is moving is not too hot (actually sometimes in the North it can be a bit chilly)

I usually use sleeper class in the winter although I do prefer to take an AC carriage in the hotter months or if I’m traveling alone on a long journey over night.

Riding the rails is an essential experience for anyone visiting India and the atmosphere in sleeper class is always more vibrant.   You will often find that families want to talk to you and share their food with you. There are also hawkers coming along the train all the time selling food, drinks and a whole array of other items to the background soundtrack of tinny Bollywood tunes played from mobile phones, the rhythmic clack clack of the rails and the cries of “chai, chai, chai , coffee, coffee, coffee.” You can also buy food from the stations as sellers can pass it through the windows to you.

As all berths have to have a reservation the carriage should not be too crowded but sometimes people do still try their luck and the open windows do mean more noise and dust comes into the carriage but traveling in sleeper class gives you a better insight into Indian life both on and off the train.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 420 ( £ 4 / US$ 6 )

Read More: 30 Incredible experiences you can only have in India!

You might also find:

(EC) – AC Executive chair class and (CC) AC Chair class

These classes are a comfortable and air conditioned good choice for day time journeys.  There are also newer, modern fast trains like the Rajdhani Express (long distance)  and Shatabi Express (day time) on important routes for example Delhi to Mumbai that are very comfortable and faster than the older, normal trains. Food and drinks are sometimes included in the fare and served at your seat.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 950 ( £ 9 / US$ 14 )

First class (FC)

The traditional non-air-con 1st class coaches with lockable compartments but these are quite rare now.

(2S) Second Class Sitting

Open plan and non air conditioned cars with wooden or padded plastic seats. Fine for shorter day time journeys and most seats can be reserved but there are usually a couple of carriages like this that don’t need a reservation although I wouldn’t recommend joining the scrum in the unreserved carriages.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 250 ( £2.50 / US$ 3.80)

Luxury, Shatabdi and Rajdhani Express Trains

If you are traveling shorter distances between major metro cities, popular tourist destinations or important pilgrimage sites you could book a seat on one of the newer and faster air conditioned Shatabdi or Rajdhani express trains.

There are only 2 classes and only seats not sleepers and the trains do not stop at so many places and the price is higher but these trains will get you where you need to go quicker and more comfortably. Refreshments are also often served on the train and are included in the price.

There is a new high speed train that connects New Delhi to Agra for the Taj Mahal in only 99 mins. Read more here  The Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express takes 126 minutes to reach Agra from Delhi.

There are also new ultra luxury train tours you can take in India like The Deccan Express – the most luxurious train in India

There is also a new modern double decker train called the Tejas Express that has just started traveling the Mumbai – Goa route. Read more here…

Indian Train tickets explained

So once you’ve decided which class of carriage is most suitable for you, you can book your ticket. Like the classes, there is also a bewildering array ticket types for Indian trains.

Here is an explanation to the ticket types and acronyms that you will find when booking train tickets in India:

As train seats often get booked up far in advance if you see availability then book it while you can! Don’t wait and come back to it in a few days it may be gone and you can always cancel if you change your mind!

If your ticket says CNF then congratulations! You have a confirmed seat on a train!

RAC (Reservation Against Cancellation) and Waitlist (WL) tickets

Once a train is fully booked with confirmed reservations (CNF) next tickets are sold as ‘Reservation Against Cancellation’ (RAC) and then after that passengers are put on the Waitlist.

If you have an RAC ticket, you  are  allowed to travel on that train you just don’t have a specific seat booked until someone cancels and then you are promoted from RAC to CNF (confirmed). If no one cancels you can still get on the train and you should be given somewhere to sit but maybe not a sleeping berth.

If you are on the waiting list you still have to pay for your ticket but unless you are promoted to RAC or CNF before departure you are not allowed to travel. If you are not promoted to a confirmed seat then your fare will be refunded.

Read More: The Ultimate Guide to Goa 

Sounds risky but I’ve done this many time with a waiting list of 15 – 20 or below and always got on the train. You will find that 24 hours before the train is due to depart many people cancel and you should get a text/ email saying that your ticket is confirmed and showing your seat number.

I’ve seen waitlists of over 300 but I wouldn’t bother to join them but  I take an RAC or WL ticket under 20 and have a good track record of getting a confirmed ticket.

You can check the status of your booking on  www.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html  or if you booked with Clear Trip enter the PNR number on your booking. If you have the Clear Trip app you can also check PNR status on there and any movement should be sent to you in a text. Don’t give up hope too soon if you are on the waitlist – most of the movement happens the day before departure.

With both of these options there is no guarantee that you will get seats together with your travel companions although it is likely that a family will all cancel together therefore giving you their seats together.

Tatkal (CK) Quotas

Tatkal is Hindi for  immediate . There some tickets on key trains that are held back for emergencies and available to book one day before departure and sold with an extra charge. For trains where there is no tourist quota you could try booking at Tatkal ticket. You can book these online from 10am one day before the departure but as the website is temperamental it’s best to go in and try to make the booking.

With Cleartrip you can book tickets from the General quota and the Tatkal quota for travel the following day but you  cannot  book Foreign Tourist quota tickets. You can also cannot buy more than 10 tickets per month. You cannot amend or change a booking but you can cancel it online and you get the majority of the ticket price refunded.

Tourist Quota Tickets

On many popular trains there’s a special (but small) Foreign Tourist quota which gives foreigners a chance to get on a train!  The tourist quota is not available on every train and there are only a couple of tickets available. So hoping for tourist quota tickets can be risky, if you know your itinerary then it’s much better to book your trains in advance.

With tourist quota tickets you will probably still have to wait a couple of days, it does not guarantee a seat on a train and cannot be booked online meaning you have to go and wait around at the ticket booking office (possibly for a few hours) and hope you can get on a train. Tourist quota tickets can be paid for in US Dollars, pounds sterling, or rupees but you may need to show an exchange certificate or ATM receipt.

Read More: 7 Reasons why traveling in India isn’t as difficult as you might think

More Tips for traveling India by train

Arrive with good time at the station to find your platform and seat.

Indian train stations can be huge, chaotic places and departure platforms can sometimes change at the last minute so arrive at the train station with plenty of time to find your train.

Your train, coach and berth number will be printed on your ticket and you can check the train number on a board to find out the platform.

Announcements are made in Hindi, English and the local language and reservation lists are posted on the notice board at each station and on the train door too and you can check your name is listed.

Indian trains are also really long, on the platform are markers to show where each train carriage should arrive and each carriage is also labelled.

Your carriage number and seat number is on your ticket for example S6 means the 6 th  carriage in sleeper class. B1 is the 1 st  AC3 carriage, A1 is the first AC2 and H1 would be first class AC. Usually the higher classes are at the front of the train don’t leave yourself sprinting down the platform trying to find your carriage with your backpack on.

Once on the train you won’t be able to cross between carriages of different classes so you would have to wait until  the next station if you got on in the wrong class.

Showing your ticket

When traveling by train in India all passengers are required to show their ticket and passport to the train conductor. Tickets cannot be sent overseas or picked up at the station but Cleartrip issues e-tickets, emailed to you to download and you can also see your tickets in the ‘Trips’ section of the app.

Until recently it was necessary to physically print out the tickets (annoying!) but since Feb 2015 I’ve had no problems simply showing the conductor the booking made on my phone in the app or downloaded email ticket along with my passport.

Toilets on Indian Trains

One of the biggest concerns about train travel in India is the toilets! Going to the toilet on any train is never the most pleasant experience and on Indian railways it is not different. There are toilets and wash basins at the end of every carriage with both squat and western options. Neither of which are that clean but not totally unbearable.

There is usually no toilet paper, soap or water but most travellers in India take tissues and hand sanitizer everywhere with them. Be careful you don’t drop anything out of your pocket onto the track too!  I haven’t travelled in 1 st  class but found that the conditions or the toilets in the AC classes are not that much better than sleeper class.

Food and Drink on Indian Trains

Indian Railways do not always have buffet or restaurant cars on the trains but some sort of food is always available. Hawkers regularly pass through the cars selling all kinds of food and drinks among other things for a few rupees (keep lots of 10 rupee notes handy for train journeys as they often don’t have change and most things are 10 or 20 rupees)

You can also order food from the attendant (veg or non veg) and it will be served to your seat. It’s cheap but I often find the train food is not great and the hygiene can be suspect so I often prefer to take snacks on with me.

There are also often many hawkers at the stations selling food, some stations even have local specialties, sometimes you can even call a restaurant and ask them to deliver to the train – Dominos is even staring to deliver pizzas to trains!

Expect to be late

I joke that Indian Railways must have an unbroken record of never having a train arrive on time but seriously I’ve never been on one that arrives on time so I allow plenty of time for delays. Time is a more flexible concept in India! Allow extra time for your train to be delayed by a couple of hours and chill out – India will teach you to be more patient and you will get there eventually!

The further the train is from the source (the start) the more likely it is to be late. These trains travel over many days all across the country so it’s no surprise that they often get held back. You can check the train running status online if your train will be late at   www.trainenquiry.com  or look on  www.erail.in  enter the train number to see how late yesterday’s train arrived to get an idea.

Also be aware that train travel in India can take a long time, India is a huge country and most of the trains travel pretty slowly and stop a lot – the journey from Kerala (Trivandrum)  to Delhi could take over 50 hours –  that’s over 2 full days (and maybe more if it is delayed) Domestic flights are not cheap but could be an option if you don’t want to spend 2 days on a train! I use  Skyscanner  to check for the cheapest deals if I need to save time.

How safe are Indian trains?

Train travel in India is one of the safer ways to travel however there are accidents on Indian Railways, the network is huge, aging and derailments do happen, although there has been a big drop in serious incidents since in the early 1990s and traveling by train is still safer than traveling by road!

Apart from accidents, train travel in India is usually pretty safe even for women travelling alone. In the lower classes you may encounter many stares of attention from other passengers but most of the time they are just curious. Foreigners traveling in the higher classes attract less attention and may feel safer because the other passengers are generally more educated but overall you are unlikely to have any problems at all.

On overnight train journeys women should book the upper bunk to avoid any potential wandering hands and also you can go and sleep without having to wait for other passengers to want to sleep.  Women should take advantage of the special ladies carriages wherever available (usually on local commuter trains) and take advantage of ladies queues and of course, dress conservatively.  If I travel on my own overnight I prefer to go for a higher class and book an AC carriage rather than a sleeper one but generally trains are pretty safe.  See more tips for women traveling in India here. 

Take care of your luggage though, theft is not common but it can happen if the opportunity is there although I’ve never had any problems. It’s  good to sleep with your valuables on you, perhaps in a money belt. You can also chain your bags underneath the seats so they are not easy to grab and run off with when the train reaches a station although this has never happened to me or anyone I know.

Scams and Hassles on Indian trains to be aware of

Unfortunately India has more than it’s fair share of scams and hassle for a traveller to contend and train travel in India is not without its share of scams but you should soon get to realise who is genuine and just ignore touts, hawkers and other scammers. When you disembark after a long train journey in a new destination you are at your most vulnerable and will most likely to accosted with many offers of taxis, tours and hotels.

I always try to get a train that arrives in daylight wherever possible because I feel safer when dealing with these touts and of course it’s easier to find accommodation.  Most of these offers will be over priced or a commission racket. The best way to deal with these is to just ignore all the touts and anyone that comes up to you, don’t engage at all and keep on walking confidently to find the official  pre paid taxi or rickshaw stand  (most big stations have them)

Failing that get out of the vicinity of the train station and just hail down a regular rickshaw who is just going about his normal business instead of preying on tourists and you are more likely to get a decent price and get taken straight to your hotel. It’s a good idea to know a landmark near your accommodation as more often than not the rickshaw driver will not know where it is although he may stop and ask people on the street as he goes along to help him find the place.

Read More: How to avoid the scams and survive your first time in Delhi.

Also be wary of anyone around places like train and bus stations, airport and major tourist attractions who tell you that where you want to go is closed, moved, burnt down, your train is cancelled or the hotel you want to go to is disgusting, closed, unsafe and that they will help you find an alternative or take you to the tourist information centre or ticket office.

Even if they look ‘official’ and are in uniform (this happened to me and  I got scammed in Delhi ) or you will lend up being taken to an alternative hotel from which they will earn a commission or at some fictitious travel agency or tourist information centre paying a lot of money for a service that may not even exist. I’ve heard of people booking and paying for a whole 2 week tour that turns out to not exist or paying over the odds for a taxi all the way to Varanasi when it was just that the train was delayed. Read more about common scams in India. 

Suburban Trains and Metros

Everyone’s seen those images of famously overcrowded Indian trains with people sitting on the roof and hanging on the side but I’ve never seen anything like that. Riding on the roof is illegal and I’ve never seen anyone doing it, the suburban trains or basic unreserved 2nd class carriages can get busy especially at peak periods, in Mumbai it’s called super dense crush load!

I avoid traveling in those peak hours on local trains but as long as your quick and prepared to barge on a bit taking the local commuter trains in Mumbai can be fun and a cheap and efficient way of getting around the crowded, congested and buzzing city.

Train travel in India is constantly changing and improving. India is rapidly building and introducing metro and rapid transit rail systems in many cities. Delhi’s metro is impressive, Calcutta has had one since 1984 and more metros are also started to operate in Bangalore, Mumbai, Chennai, Kochi and Jaipur.

What if you like to be flexible and spontaneous?

I hear you! I do as well – I don’t like to have all my travels planed out as you never know what’s going to happen, who you will met, which places you will love and wish to linger longer in and which you will hate and want to leave asap.

You cannot change or amend your booking online though so what I do, as sleeper trains are so cheap,  I often book a couple of options and then cancel the ones I don’t want only losing a tiny bit of money but it allows me to be more flexible.

It’s easy to cancel trains on the Clear Trip app and get a refund up to 4 hours before departure (not a full refund but you get most of it back).

Read More: The perfect route and itinerary for traveling India

Do you have any more questions or tips for train travel in India? Leave a comment below

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Yes please..would be very helpful..as I would like to book train tickets from South Africa.

That would be very helpful please

PDF would be fab 🙂

Super helpful!

I like how thorough many of your articles are. This is helpful not just to foreigners but also Indians.

Thanks so much – glad to hear that! 🙂

Cool, glad its helpful – I will work on making it into a downloadable PDF 🙂

Can we get India train tickets from you?

From me? No, I’m not a travel agent so I can’t use my account to book for other people sorry.

The easiest way is to ask http://www.indiasomeday.com they can book train tickets for you for a small commission. I’ve travelled with them before see more here – http://www.global-gallivanting.com/my-review-of-traveling-with-india-someday/

hope this helps you 🙂

Good to see your love for India and Indian Railways. The blog is surely informative. However, you should be aware of the current updates of Indian Railways. To get updated info, keep a check on http://www.getpnrstatus.co.in

Thanks, glad its been useful

Hi Anna, what do you do about safety when needing to use the toilet if you are travelling solo? Do you have to take your day pack with you and have on your back? Could imagine it would be quite tricky sqatting on a moving train with a day pack on your back. I wouldn’t imagine it’s safe to leave it at your seat? Thanks

Hi Shani, normally I have my valuables in a smaller pack and take it with me to the toilet. I also keep my smaller bag on valuables under my head normally when I’m sleeping. They do have handles to hold on too while squatting on a moving train and they also have some western toilets. You can also bring a chain to chain your bag to the seat but I haven’t had a problem with theft on the train. Hope this helps 🙂 Happy Travels

Just had my 1 year visa approved, flights are now booked but I was dreading the IRCTC registration……… but using your detailed instructions and reading seat61.com I completedthe whole process and received verification codes in less than an hour. Thanks for a fab website Anna. Woohoo, India here I come 🙂

Awesome! So glad my blog helped! Hope you have a great trip!

Nice one you put ample information in your blog, also add this to solve the confusion about waiting list problem In Indian Railway.Thanks http://blog.railyatri.in/decoding-the-myths-about-remote-location-wait-list/

Great blog and awesome pictures indeed. Your tips and suggestions will be certainly useful for many foreign travellers who come to India and want to travel safely.

Thanks, glad its helpful

Great blog Anna,You know more than any other citizens of India.These information are very useful for people using railways.If possible kindly include info regarding dustbins in Indian railways.Many people don’t know that there is a dust bin present in every compartment,It is located below the wash basin. Thanks,

Thanks Laxmikant 🙂

Hi Anna Love your website! We are planning to visit India for the first time this October November and found your fantastic website. You give such amazing all-round advice – superb! We would like to travel mostly by train, so your train piece is just what we need. However, most of the photos don’t come up, especially the ones inside the different compartments. I have tried in several countries and with many different providers, so it might be an instruction problem on your side. Would love to see them, so could you please check this out. Thank you so much for an exceptional website. Kindest regards Crystal and Joerg

Nice Article!!! Thanks for sharing such a amazing article with us, keep it up more.

Ive been travelling in indian trains since i was 1 year old (because i’m from india ) . I dont know why i still half your article .

Nice Blog !! It is a complete guide to the travelers especially foreigners. Food is also a major issue in India while traveling on a train. Call 07827998877 or visit traveler food website to order your food on your seat.

[…] by train in India is the best experience! I will not talk about the many kinds of tickets because other bloggers already covered this topic. But I advise you to book your train tickets in […]

Train travel in India can be an overwhelming experience. It takes meticulous planning ahead of time. We were uniquely blessed to be easily able to travel the complex and far flung vast expanses of perhaps the third largest railroad system in the world. Arguably the most used railway system as well. Without going into detail I can tell you confidently, that it was absolutely splendid! In contrast to that luxury, we also traveled on all four gauges (narrow, meter, broad and standard gauges) of the vast Indian Railways on every known classification. On some stretches the four gauges ran within and concurrently. I don’t know of any other place on the planet where that is so common over long stretches, lol!

The sound of the tracks and bewitching alpine horns as well as the archaic whistle on some old hobbies is etched in my mind. Some of the best quality REM deep sleep I’ve ever experienced was in those wonderful trips. The scenery was exquisite. Whether it was rumbling through megalopolis urban centers or the tranquil expanses of the country side (a veritable diaspora of green farmland, to the dense and foreboding jungles to the serene expanses of the many ocean beaches, the landscape was haunting. Aside from all these we also enjoyed being unhooked from the train next to a private cove with a pond or lake to camp out at. Stuff of dreams that would easily be the envy of many. Uncommon and common experiences to cherish forever.

I have to say I’m compelled to agree, it’s an !incredible !India!

[…] think nothing of jumping on a train and backpacking India alone but that’s because I’ve been here for a while, I’ve heard […]

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Everything You Need to Know about Traveling India By Train

I have been traveling in trains in India since I was a child and I have been traveling solo for years now.

I haven’t faced any major issue and have found it quite easy and safe to travel by train in India.

Train travel in India is crowded, often messy and loud, but a complete enriching experience in its own.

Railway network in India is one of the largest in the world and employs around 1.4 million people.

With the track length of 115000 km, it runs more than 12000 trains to carry over 23 million passengers daily.

Are wondering if it is safe to travel by train in India? My answer is, Yes, traveling by train in India does come with its own set of problems but it is quite safe to travel as long as you are traveling in a reserved compartment. Staying cautious is the key. You can read this detailed 2500 words post on How To travel safely in Indian trains: 13 Awesome tips

Train travel in India can be confusing and intimidating. In this detailed guide, you will find the answer to frequently asked questions like:-

• What are the different classes for train travel in India?
• How to book Indian train tickets from outside India?
• How to book Indian train tickets online?
• Can I buy train tickets from any station in India?
• Can I buy a train ticket at the station?
• Can I buy a ticket on the train?
• Can I travel without a ticket on the train?
• What is a Foreigner Tourist quota?
• What is the official website of Indian Railways?
• Are there International tourist bureaux?
• How to get food and drinks on board Indian trains?
• What is the condition of toilets inside Indian Trains?
• What are the provisions for the security of passengers?

Do Indian trains run on time?

• Can I recharge mobile and camera onboard Indian train?
• Are pets allowed in Indian trains?

8 Classes of Accommodation on Indian Trains

There are 8 classes of accommodation on Indian trains. Only a selection of a few of these classes will be available on any given train. 

Here are the classes, in roughly descending order of cost.

Air-conditioned first class (AC1 or 1A)

Air-conditioned 2-tier (ac2 or 2a).

• First Class

Air-conditioned 3-tier (AC3 or 3A)

Sleeper class (sl), ac chair class (cc), second seating or 2s.

1st class or 1 AC as it is normally called is a fully air-conditioned coach and is the most expensive class with ample facilities and services to give you a great experience.

It could be as expensive as traveling by air but it gives a lot of space and privacy.

• It consists of 2 or 4 berths per compartment and there is no side upper or side lower berths in these.
• Compartments having 2 berths are called coupe and the ones with 4 berths are called cabin.
• The coupes and the cabins are very clean, have a trash-bin placed inside and berths are much spacious and comfortable than other classes.
• You cannot book a 2-berth or a 4-berth compartment by choice when you book. Even after booking no specific berth number is allocated. The specific berth numbers are reflected on reservation lists at the station before departure of the train.
• You have separate light provided on each berth for reading.
• The coupes and the cabins have doors that can be bolted from inside making it very safe and secure.
• Washrooms are also cleaner than other classes.
• You get clean bedding and blankets.
• Food is prepared inside the train in pantry cars and you may have options to choose from.
• If the train you are traveling in is Rajdhani, Shatabdi or Duronto express, the food is included in train fare.
• An attendant is there in the coach at your service.

I traveled in AC First Class for my Honeymoon to Rajasthan. One thing we liked the most about AC 1st class was the privacy it provided that is missing in other classes. You can relax and are not be bothered by the hustle bustle of passengers or vendors getting in and out of the train.

This is the class having some features less than the first class but is easier on the pocket than the first class.

• Unlike AC 1st Class, AC2 tier is open-plan with berths arranged in bays of four on one side of the aisle and in bays of two on the other side of the aisle.
• There is no middle berth like in 3AC.
• It gives ample space to passengers and there are curtains for privacy.
• You may order food paying for it separately when the attendant arrives to take the order for meals around an hour before mealtime.
• You have reading light with each berth and a charging point common for 2-4 berths usually.

Most of the time I travel by 2AC because it’s not heavy on the pocket, it is clean and spacious.

First Class (FC)

The First Class has no AC and has been largely replaced by First AC and Second AC. I wouldn’t recommend First AC as the fares on First Class is higher than even Third AC with much lesser convenience. To find out which trains still have First Class check out this link.

This is the most preferred class of travel by the Indian middle-class passengers as it is air-conditioned and cheap.

• Just like AC2 tier, AC 3-tier is also an open-plan. In AC 3-tier, however, the berths are arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle and in bays of two on the other side of the aisle.
• The backrest of the lower berth is pulled up to make the middle berth.
• You are provided with bedding, blanket, hand towel, and a pillow. Washrooms are okay but not as clean as in 2AC and 1AC.
• There isn’t too much space to store luggage as all passengers keep their luggage under the lowest berth.

As per the Indian Railways rules, the sleeping hours for passengers have been earmarked between 10 PM to 6 AM. This means that the occupant of the middle berth cannot keep the berth up beyond the sleeping hours. This rule is in place to ensure smooth seating of co-passengers on the lower berth.

This is the actual class where you can see lots of action happening around.

This class has no air conditioning so it very cheap and it has openable windows.

It gets hot during summer daytime and cold in winter nights. Attendants are not available for these coaches and there is no provision for supplying linen/bedroll.

If being in a crowded place doesn’t bother you and you want to hear what’s going around in India from weather, politics, news, Bollywood, festivals AND OF COURSE CRICKET, you can get it all in the Sleeper Class of Indian Railways.

The Sleeper class is lively with people getting in and out at every station, vendors, and hawkers calling out to sell their stuff and so on.

It’s as if this place is never silent except for night.

My experience has not been very good while traveling in this class because it’s very normal here that despite having a whole berth reserved for yourself, you may find it already occupied by someone else and you have to ask them to vacate the seat.

Often they do but if it’s daytime, they would just move to the end of the berth and give you enough space to sit.

I have come to realize that usually, these are people who almost daily travel on these short distances with a pass or unreserved ticket and sit wherever they find a seat.

Once while traveling in this class, it took me around half an hour and a ticket examiner to convince a group of women that I had reserved the seat they were sleeping on and they have to vacate it even if they had arrived before me.

This is a fully air-conditioned coach with seating arrangement of 3 and 2 rows on either side of the aisle with a total of 5 seats in a row. This class is available only in select trains like Shatabdi Expresses and a number of other inter-city daytime trains,

• This is a good option for a short journey for around 5-6 hours.
• There is space overhead to keep luggage which stays in your sight all the time.
• Small tables are attached to the back of your front seat which can be opened to have meals or for reading etc.
• These coaches are very clean, quiet and spacious.

This is a Non AC class coach and a very cheap way to travel by train. This class is common in short route trains.

4 to 5 passengers occupying a bench made for 3 people is a common sight here. Travel by this class is advisable for short journey only. These coaches are mostly filled with daily passengers commuting for work.

There are many trains that have some coaches that are for ticket holders who do not have a reservation for a specific seat.

You can just buy an ordinary ticket from the station ticket counter for your destination and board this coach.

It’s not advisable to travel in this during rush hours, peak season, holidays or festivals. It often gets so overcrowded that you may find people standing or sitting in the passageway and near the toilets.

It can often be full up to double the occupying capacity of the coach.

Passengers arguing and fighting over seats is very common here.

NOTE: At times when you board the train you may find someone else occupying your seat.

If you let the person know that you have a reservation for that particular seat, the person is most likely to get up and leave.

This a common scene in Indian trains.

These are usually commuters of short distance who although have a ticket have no reservations. Since they are traveling short distance they unauthorisedly want to take advantage of the air conditioning Compartments.

Another common scene in Indian trains is getting requests from other passengers to exchange seats so that a family or a group traveling together may stay close.

Hope the above details help you in making an informed decision while booking your tickets so that you have a comfortable journey.

In the following paragraphs, I have tried to reply to frequently asked questions about train travel in India.

Can I book IRCTC tickets from outside India?

Yes, it is possible for foreign tourists to book train tickets from outside India for traveling in India. You can register with IRCTC at www.irctc.co.in and go ahead with bookings using international cards. For verification, while registering on IRCTC site, use your email id

Which are the other Sites from where online tickets can be purchased?

12go.asia is an easier way than IRCTC to book tickets online.

They do charge an additional fee but that’s nominal considering the time and frustration of booking through IRCTC for foreign tourists.

They sell for top 1000 most popular train routes and they sell only confirmed tickets not waitlisted or RAC.

There are many other apps these days through which train tickets can be booked like cleartrip, yatra, and makemytrip.

Are train tickets in India cheaper online?

Train tickets are not cheaper online but some apps provide cash-back when you book through them.

Ticket booking at railway counter is cheaper but it’s a tiring and time-consuming process not worth the money you save standing there in the long queue.

Tickets can also be purchased through travel agents on an additional fee which saves a lot of time and hassle.

In such case, the best thing is to check the fare online and then book through agents so that you have an idea what’s the actual price of the ticket and how much additional charges you are paying.

Can I buy train tickets from any station in India? 

• Yes, you can buy tickets at almost all the stations (an exception being stations in small towns/villages) for any destination all over India. Reservations are now completely computerized.
• There is usually a separate counter for current tickets (unreserved) and a separate counter for reservation.
• You can fill the reservation form and book your ticket.
• It’s better to check online in advance regarding the trains and seat availability.

Can I travel without ticket in train? 

No. If you travel without a ticket in train with the intention of defrauding the railway department, that would be an offense.

What Fine will be Charged if a traveler is found Travelling without a pass or ticket?

You can not travel without a ticket by train. If you are caught traveling without a ticket, you will need to pay the fare from the station you boarded the train or from the station which the train originally started or from the checking point with an equal amount of excess charge subject to a minimum of Rs. 250/- up to the point of detection.

Foreigner Tourist quotas

There’s a special Foreign Tourist quota on many trains. A foreigner quota means foreigners may find a limited number of places available on trains which are sold out for Indian travelers.

Tickets under this quota can be booked up to 365 days in advance.

All the details regarding the booking charges, cancellation, refund, etc of the foreigner tourist quota can be found by clicking here.

The International Tourist Bureau

The International Tourist Bureaus are located at various important cities all over India at New Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, Mumbai, Bangalore, Ahmedabad, Secunderabad, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Varanasi, Agra Cantt.

These provide assistance to foreign tourists and NRIs regarding enquiries, booking, reservation, and travel planning, etc.

International Tourist Bureau at New Delhi has started functioning round the clock w.e.f. 12-12-2014.

International Tourist Bureau, First Floor, Station Building, New Delhi Railway Station, New Delhi- 110055 Phone : 91-11-42625156, Fax: 91-11-23343050

The Official website of Indian Railways

Indianrail.gov.in is the official website of Indian railway department which gives the details of all the trains, seat availability, fare, etc.

• To find your train, you click on “reserved train between station” and choose your journey date, source station, destination station and click on GO.
• The list of all the running trains on this route would be displayed.
• Click on the train number to get the schedule of the train and on the available classes to check seat availability and fare of the various classes.
• Sometimes direct trains are not available between two places so you have to search for the nearest major stations or you can look for connecting trains and change the train during the journey.
• If you are looking for a seat under a particular quota, you select that from the drop-down list and then search.
• Ticket Booking cannot be done at Indianrail.gov.in
• You can book tickets at https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/train-search.
• If you have a waitlisted/ RAC ticket and want to see its status, use PNR inquiry tab, enter your ten digit PNR number and submit. The current status of your booking would be displayed.

Food and drink on trains

Many Indians carry home made food while traveling in trains.

In some trains like Rajdhani, Shatabdi, and Duronto, food is included in train fare and is served at your seat.

In most of the long route trains, attendant arrives in the AC coaches sometime before the meal to take the order for the food.

The only food option that you can choose is whether you want a vegetarian meal or a non-vegetarian meal. The meals are pre-decided set menus.

Food is simple and not expensive.

Though the Indian railways are improving a lot on its cleanliness and food people sometimes prefer ordering online.

These days you have many apps and online options to order your food such as railmitra.com, railyatri.in, railrestro.com, ecatering.irctc.co.in.

All you need to do is to choose your food, enter your PNR/seat number, choose the station where you want your food to be delivered, pay online or choose COD and it would be delivered at your seat.

It’s a good option as you get to choose out of many options of fresh food at a reasonable price.

Even Dominos deliver pizza in train these days at selected locations.

At most of the stations, one can also find hawkers getting on the train to sell tea, water, cold drinks, snacks, etc to the passengers.

• Should you drink Tap Water in India?
• 16 Tips on Eating Street Food in India & Not Getting Sick

Cleanliness, toilets & crowding 

There was a time Indian trains were dirty and smelled foul but things are improving these days.

AC coaches are quite clean as the cleaning staff comes regularly to clean and take out the trash.

Unreserved/general compartments are the ones that usually get overcrowded so it’s always better to travel with a reserved seat. Toilets are not squeaky clean but just clean enough to serve the purpose as it depends a lot upon the class you are traveling in and how many co-passengers are using it.

Recently during my journey, I noticed a train attendant coming with a feedback form regarding cleanliness and asked a few passengers to fill it.

There are both western and Indian style toilets in AC coaches.

It’s good to carry a toilet paper roll, wet tissues, hand sanitizer, paper soap, etc with you as per your requirement while traveling.

Only AC coaches are the ones not usually frequented by random people or passengers traveling with unreserved tickets and thus are not as crowded as other classes.

These posts will help you plan your trips so that you stay safe and healthy.

• Travel First Aid Kit : Advice from a Wanderlust Doctor.
• Travelers Diarrhea is a threat to all travelers – Read causes, symptoms, how to avoid and recommendations by a Doctor on if infected how to treat the Delhi Belly.

Security on Indian trains   

Though there is an attendant in AC coaches, most of the trains do not have staff that you can contact immediately in case of security or safety issues but there are helpline numbers that can be contacted in an emergency.

• Customer care can be reached at number 139,
• for grievance and complaints 138 and
• 182 for safety/security issues.
• It’s best to reserve upper berth if you are a woman traveling alone.

Read my tried and tested 13 awesome safety tips on traveling in Indian Trains.

You should be careful about your belongings all the time and not blindly trust strangers. Keep your money and important documents etc with you all the time.

Most of the Indian trains run on time or are late by a few minutes to half an hour. You can always check for the latest updates on apps like railyatri.in, runningstatus.in which provide live running status of the trains.

Do check the reviews on these apps before choosing one to rely on.

Recharging mobile and camera

Charging points are available in trains where you can easily charge your phone and camera. Usually there is one or two charging points per cabin. The sockets may need adapter sometimes. It is always good to carry a fully charged power bank with you.

Are pets allowed in Indian Railways?

Yes, you can take your furry companions with you when you travel but it comes with many terms and conditions.

You can only keep your pet with you only if you book a complete cabin of AC first class. If any co-passenger has an objection to traveling with a pet in the coach, the pet will have to be shifted to the brake van/luggage carrier.

Pets cannot be taken in any other AC, Sleeper or chair car classes.

You need to go to the railway parcel/luggage office to pay for the charges for your pet according to its weight. The pet should be healthy/not suffering from any disease.

If you want to put your pet in the luggage van, you have to keep it in a cage/pet box and it is your responsibility to feed it.

I hope this post of mine with 3366 words has answered most of your questions about train travel onboard Indian Railways. If you still have questions I would highly recommend seat61.com for more detailed information. I have myself referred to this post (amongst few other) for collating information.

There are around 8000 railway stations in India and Indian Railways has been emphasizing a lot on their cleanliness for the last few years.

A lot has improved for train travel in India during the last few years and the process is still on, making it a pleasant and memorable experience for travelers.

I hope this post helps you in planning your train travel in India.

If you have already traveled onboard Indian trains, is there anything you would like to add? Don’t forget to mention it in the comments.

If this is your first trip to India you will find these posts helpful:-

• When is the best time to Visit India?
• 30 Breathtakingly Beautiful Destinations in India that you should not miss visiting!
• 15 Most Popular Festivals in India (with 2020 dates).
• Visiting India? Here’s What should tourists wear in India?
• Should you tip in India? Read when, whom & how much to tip.
• 13 tried and tested Safety Tips for Train Travel in India
• Curious about Indian Culture? Learn how to drape a perfect Saree – Step By Step Tutorial.

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2 thoughts on “Everything You Need to Know about Traveling India By Train”

Nicely written, almost everything is covered in single post from briefing Indian Railways to traveling with Indian Railways. Well done. Keep writing & sharing.

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8 incredible train journeys in South India

Jul 31, 2023 • 8 min read

The slow, marvelous trains that crisscross South India offer a wonderful way to discover this vast region © MTD_myTravelDiaries / Shutterstock

Trains pass through jade-green forests, misty mountains and gorgeous coastal stretches in lush South India.

Riding the rails is one of the greatest joys of any India adventure, whether you’re trundling high up into the hills aboard a UNESCO-listed miniature train or clattering along the sun-drenched, coast-hugging Konkan Railway.

Down south, landscapes spin from honey-gold beaches and palm-shaded backwaters to jungle-covered hills, gushing waterfalls and sprawling megacities. And there’s no finer way to soak it all up than from the window seat of a clanking train, over a white-paper cup of steaming sweet chai.

Fabulous food is often part of the picture, too, thanks to vendors deftly making their way through carriages at stations, and top-tier tickets that include on-board meals. As you roll across wildly beautiful South India , you’ll see local staples such as potato-stuffed dosas (crispy, thin lentil-and-rice-flour crepes), crispy vadas (fried savory dough) and coconut-rich Keralite stews pop up, while soothing chai and filter coffee inevitably always appear at just the right moment. Certain stations are famous for selling particular regional specialities, and some trains are known for serving superb food. 

Here are eight terrific train journeys that offer a taste of India’s sultry south. 

Mettupalayam to Ooty (Udhagamandalam) on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway 

46km (29 miles), 3.5–4.75 hours

South Indian rail thrills don’t get more classic than catching the famous, Unesco-listed “toy train” into northern Tamil Nadu ’s misty Western Ghats . Jade-green tea plantations, lush jungle, rushing waterfalls and far-reaching panoramas jostle for attention as the narrow-gauge, rack-and-pinion steam train rattles up into the Nilgiri Hills from tiny Mettupalayam, zipping through 16 tunnels and across 250 bridges. Eventually, it reaches the hugely popular hill station of Ooty , at 2240m (7350ft). There’s also a stop along the way at Coonoor, the Nilgiris’ second hill station, resting at 1720m (5643ft). First opened in 1899 (and extended to Ooty in 1908), the NMR pulls in an often-lively domestic crowd, with people cheering as tunnels plunge you into darkness. 

The blue-and-cream miniature train leaves for Ooty every day at 7:10am and takes 4.75 hours on the way up; it makes its way back down to Mettupalayam at 2pm, a 3.5-hour journey. The best way to get to Mettupalayam is aboard the nine-hour overnight Nilgiri Express from Chennai Central (or hop on it at Coimbatore , which has an airport), arriving just in time at 6:15am.

Bengaluru (Bangalore) to Gokarna on the Karwar Express

711km (442 miles), 14 hours

Flights link Karnataka ’s lively capital of Bengaluru with the coast in an hour or so – but then you’d be missing out on a spectacular slow-travel jaunt through the lush, biodiverse and unbelievably beautiful Western Ghats en route to Gokarna ’s blissful beaches. Leaving Bengaluru’s Yesvantpur Junction station three days a week at 7am, the Karwar Express follows inland Karnataka’s so-called Green Route, which is known for its wild green forests, dense coffee crops and over 100 bridges. After reaching the low-key coastal town of Mangaluru (Mangalore) , the train follows the coast north to Gokarna Road station, where some of South India’s most magical and relaxed beaches await on the doorstep. 

If you’d prefer an overnight train to the beach, catch the daily Panchaganga Express at 6:50pm from Bengaluru City station, which drops you at Gokarna Road 12 hours later. 

Mumbai to Margao (Madgaon) on the Mandovi Express

765km (475 miles), 12 hours

One of India’s most spectacular railway stations – Mumbai ’s Gothic-style, colonial-era Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus – is the 7:10am starting point for a thrilling coastal adventure south to the golden sands of Goa . Built in the 1990s, the beloved 756km (470-mile) Konkan Railway rushes across 2216 bridges and through almost 100 tunnels, and includes one of the country’s tallest viaducts (a 60m/197ft-high marvel near Ratnagiri). Gaze out on tropical-fruit plantations, rice fields, meandering rivers and electric-green coconut palms as you spin through Maharashtra to land in Margao , southern Goa’s main transport hub, from where there’s easy onward transport to mellow beachy beauties like Palolem and Benaulim. 

But the Mandovi Express isn’t all about the views: it’s also famous for its food, courtesy of a Karnataka-born catering company that delights travelers with samosas, idli-sambar , vadas and other favorites. South of Goa, the Konkan Railway continues through Karnataka almost to the Kerala border. 

Varkala to Kanyakumari on the Island Express

127km (79 miles), four hours

Settle in for a leisurely journey from the golden-black beaches, lively surf-and-yoga scene and holy temples of Varkala , on Kerala ’s south coast, to the southernmost tip of India, in Tamil Nadu. Famous as the place where three seas meet – the Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal – laid-back Kanyakumari centers on a revered waterside temple devoted to the Hindu goddess Kumari, a site with an entrancing feel. The beloved Island Express’ 10:55am departure from Varkala means you’ll enjoy southern Kerala’s palm-laced landscapes in all their hazy day-lit beauty. 

Alternatively, you can hop on in Kerala’s capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) , three hours from Kanyakumari, or even from as far north as Bengaluru – which involves a 19-hour, 944km (587-mile) overnight spin via Coimbatore, Kochi, Kollam and more. 

Vasco da Gama to Londa on the Goa Express

146km (91 miles), 3.5 hours

The tumbling 603m(1980ft)-high cascade of Dudhsagar Falls (one of India’s tallest waterfalls) is the “wow” moment on any journey between the South Goan port city of Vasco da Gama and Londa, just over the border in Karnataka. Along the way, Goa’s gold-tinged shoreline gives way to the Western Ghats’ Unesco-protected hills, as you dive into the contiguous wildlife-rich Mollem National Park and Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary . 

The 3pm Goa Express (a daily superfast train) runs north from Vasco da Gama via Londa all the way to Delhi – 2208km (1372 miles), or 39.5  hours away. It also stops in Margao , a handy alternative Goa start point.

Chennai to Hyderabad on the Chennai–Hyderabad Express

715km (444 miles), 13 hours

Wake up to the ancient architectural jewels of Telangana ’s dynamic capital Hyderabad , home to some of India’s most magnificent Islamic buildings, such as the chandelier-lit Chowmahalla Palace , the 16th-century Golconda Fort and the splendid Qutb Shahi Tombs . The fun starts with a 4:45pm daily departure from Chennai Central and a South Indian–style dinner on board as the Chennai–Hyderabad Express inches its way north from Tamil Nadu. You’ll probably start the next day sharing a chat and a sugary chai with your carriage neighbors, watching the countryside morph into an urban metropolis on the slow roll into Hyderabad Deccan station. 

Kochi to Margao on the Netravathi Express

849km (527 miles), 14.75 hours

Also following the Konkan Railway for much of the way, this overnight route zips you north from Kerala’s arty cultural hub Kochi to serene southern Goa. After hopping on at Ernakulam Junction station in Kochi at 1:50pm, Kerala whirls past in a blur of sun-toasted coconut palms. Post-sunset, you’ll travel through coastal Mangaluru and the temple town of Udupi in Karnataka, to (finally!) reach Margao Junction just before sunrise. 

In its full extent, the Netravathi Express links Kerala’s capital Trivandrum with Mumbai – a whopping 30-hour, 1805km (1122-mile) journey. It’s also handy for reaching northern Kerala’s untouristed beaches (around Kannur and Bekal ), and you can pick it up from further south than Kochi if you’re in, say, Alappuzha (Alleppey) or Varkala.

Chennai to Rameswaram on the Rameswaram Express

665km (413 miles), 11 hours

Plodding across the 2km(1.25-mile)-long Pamban Bridge, with the Bay of Bengal swirling below, puts a whole new spin on riding the rails in South India. The bridge links mainland Tamil Nadu to Pamban Island, home to the small pilgrimage town of Rameswaram and the eerie ruins of Dhanushkodi (a once-thriving port destroyed by a 1964 cyclone), and marks the final stretch of a long overnight trip south from Chennai Egmore. 

Known as the Boat Mail Express in the 19th century, this train originally operated as part of a rail-and-ferry route linking Tamil Nadu with neighboring Sri Lanka (then under British rule as Ceylon), until the Pamban Bridge was opened in 1914. It’s also possible to travel by train across from the celebrated temple city of Madurai in southern Tamil Nadu; trains leave throughout the day from Madurai Junction (four hours). 

At the time of writing, rail services across the original century-old Pamban Bridge have been suspended while a new bridge is constructed, after safety concerns arose in 2022. 

How to book trains in South India

The best way to find out about South Indian train services is online via Erail , Indian Railways and/or Seat 61 ; this last resource offers invaluable advice on all things train travel–related in India, including buying tickets. 

Many trains sell out well in advance of their departure date, so it’s best to book as far ahead as possible, ideally online. Long-distance bookings currently open 120 days beforehand. Most comfortable for overnight travels are the reserved air-conditioned classes (1AC, 2AC or 3AC). The easiest way to reserve is through a booking portal such as Cleartrip or 12Go . The IRCTC government website also takes online bookings, but it can be a frustratingly fiddly process. On the ground, major train stations in places like Mumbai and Chennai usually have dedicated ticket counters for foreign travelers. Read more about how to get around India by train here . 

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Travel In India By Train - A Complete Guide To Travel By Indian Railways

How to book a train ticket in india, cost of train tickets in india.

Luxury Train Travel in India 

1. 'maharaja's express.

2. Palace on Wheels

3. Royal Rajasthan on Wheels

4. The Deccan Odyssey

5. Golden Chariot

6. Royal Orient Train

7.  Fairy Queen Express

Other Train Travel in India With Classes 

1. first class ac or 1a.

2. AC two tier or 2A

3. ac three tier or 3a.

4. Executive Class Chair Car or EC

5. AC Chair Car or CC

6. sleeper class, 7. second seater or 2s.

Well then get ready to embark on one of the most memorable train travels in India which you are sure to cherish forever!

This post was published by Priyanka Chugh

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Luxury train journeys through India

Palace on wheels.

By Audley India specialist Alison

Living and working in Mumbai for a number of years, I spent weekends exploring my surroundings by hopping on local trains, sleeper trains and toy trains. In a country that relies on its rail network like no other, it’s little surprise that a range of luxury trains is available for you to tour India from a different perspective.

Choosing to travel in India by luxury train

India specialist Alison singles out some of India’s best luxury trains and explains why they’re an enjoyable way to explore the country.

Join a luxury train tour across India, and you’ll cover more ground than you could by car. You’ll be able to visit far more places and, as most trains travel during the night, won’t feel rushed.

Tours and activities are usually conducted in small groups, and dinners are enjoyed together with your fellow passengers. I’d agree that this wouldn’t suit the more independently minded, but if you’re keen for a little more privacy, some trains provide complimentary private tours if you book a suite or presidential cabin.

Luxury trains in India

The maharajas' express.

Completing its maiden journey in 2010, the Maharajas' Express  is the newest and, in my opinion, most luxurious train running in India. Cabins range from the well-sized deluxe to suites with their own private sitting area. There’s even a presidential suite pulled in its own carriage.

Teak doors separate your cabin from the corridor, and rooms are decorated with Indian prints and brass trim. Beds are positioned along the length of the train — I could hardly feel any movement as I slept.

The majority of meals are eaten on board. Almost everything, from the croissants at breakfast to the handmade chocolates at dinner, is made from scratch. As we sat down to each meal, the head chef, John Stone, would make his way down the carriage, talking to guests about the food and explaining the finer points of some of the Indian dishes. Hailing from Shimla , he likes to include dishes popular with his family on the comprehensive continental menu.

Maharajas' Express train routes

Five different routes all focus on the northern state of Rajasthan and its surrounding areas, with journeys ranging from three to six nights. I experienced the shortest tour: Treasures of India. Taking just three nights, it’s an ideal taste of luxury train travel without committing to the cost of the longer tours.

I was driven from my Delhi hotel to Safdarjung Railway Station in the southern suburbs of the city. Joining my fellow guests on board, brunch was served as the train set off past housing blocks strung with bright lines of washing and green patches of park. Our first stop was Agra.

It’s difficult to miss the Maharajas' Express as it pulls into a station. Its cherry-red body is decorated with gold patterns, and it’s by far the cleanest train. As it arrived into Agra , local musicians announced our arrival on the platform. I stepped off onto a red carpet to receive a welcoming flower garland. This, I was told, is the protocol for every stop.

Coaches branded with the train’s insignia are the mode of transport for touring Agra. Tours are in groups, but you have headphones to listen to the guide, who speaks through a microphone.

The first day in Agra focuses on visiting its calling card, the Taj Mahal. After an early start and a guided tour, you have time to take photographs and relax in the surrounding gardens.

You go back to the train for lunch, then set out again in the afternoon to tour Agra Fort, home of the Mughal emperors. It’s possible to stand where Shah Jahan, the creator of the Taj Mahal, was imprisoned by his son, within view of his masterpiece. You then return to the train for dinner, and depart for Ranthambhore National Park.

From the train, we drove by 4x4 into the park. We’d been warned that the tigers in Ranthambhore were elusive, and we’d be lucky to glimpse a dash of tail. While we were peering into the bushes at a sambar deer, a female tiger casually walked out in front of us. Everyone suddenly went silent as we watched her nonchalantly survey her territory.

You close your cabin curtains that evening on scraggly jungle and open them the next morning to a cityscape crammed with flat-topped apartments and open-faced shops: Jaipur . 

It’s a jeep ride up to Amber Fort, overlooking the surrounding Aravalli Hills. The tour of the fort guides you through a maze of palace rooms and courtyards, culminating in a visit to the Sheesh Mahal, or ‘chamber of mirrors’. This room is covered by so many gems, mirrors and pieces of painted glass it can be lit by a single candle.

The Express’s itineraries include exclusive experiences it wouldn’t be possible to book otherwise. In Jaipur, we were granted access to Jaipur’s royal family’s private quarters of the City Palace. Entertainment was provided in the gardens before we were taken up to their rooftop terrace for a dinner with views across the city. I managed to glimpse at a few royal rooms along the way.

On the final morning, you awake in Delhi to disembark after a substantial breakfast. The Express’s routes begin or end in Delhi but don’t usually include visiting any of its sites. Although it’s noisy and chaotic, I wouldn’t discount spending a few nights in Delhi before you catch the train. A guided city tour will give a taster of what’s to come.

The Palace on Wheels  feels a little dated, but that’s part of its charm. One of the first luxury trains dedicated to leisure — those that came before were for royalty or dignitaries — it started running in 1982. The General Manager then is still running the train now. On my first night aboard, we were given a short talk on the history of the train: as a passenger, there’s a real sense of becoming part of its heritage.

The train is made up of 14 saloon coaches, each named after a place on the route. On the coach named Kishangarh, a village noted for its Bani Thani miniature paintings, local artists have painted examples of their work. There are also two restaurants, a lounge car and four service cars for staff.

Four cabins fit into each saloon and share a small lounge. Two valets are assigned to each saloon — Opi and Rasjish who looked after me were always keen to recommend their pick of the day’s menu. The deluxe cabins are clad in polished teak and have sash windows and wall hangings. Upgrade to the presidential suite and you’ll also get a private sitting area.

Palace on Wheels route

Departing every Wednesday, the Palace on Wheels follows a set seven night route across north India. For me, the range of wildlife, key highlights and more offbeat rural areas it covers makes it one of the most comprehensive insights into India. Journeying long distances as you sleep, the train halves the amount of time it would take to complete this trip by car.

Arriving at Delhi Railway Station, I boarded the train in the evening, ready for dinner. Food is a white-gloved, silver-service affair. Service can feel a little slow, but this doesn’t seem to matter when you’re surrounded by gilded mirrors and printed wallpaper. With set dining times, you’ll eat alongside your fellow guests each night.

The first few days of the route, visit the fortress city of Jaipur and Ranthambhore National Park . The train then delves further into Rajasthan, starting with Chittorgarh , a fortress town built by the Rajputs, a prominent Indian ruling family.

Look at a map and you’ll find that Chittorgarh is surrounded by nothing but the odd tiny hamlet. A long drive from the nearest city and with only a couple of very basic hotels, it’s rarely visited. After touring the fort — the largest in India — we settled down to watch the evening’s sound and light show. The fort walls are lit with a succession of moving lights as a voice narrates the history of Chittorgarh.

After dinner on board, the train then continues south to Udaipur . A greener city, Udaipur is set around two lakes, protected by the Aravalli Hills. The Lake Palace sits in the middle of Lake Pichola, a once pleasure palace for a young Mughal prince. It’s now one of the most luxurious hotels in the world. It isn’t usually possible to visit unless you stay at the hotel, but as train passengers we had the opportunity to dine there.

The fortress city of Jaisalmer , which marks the gateway to the Thar Desert in Rajasthan, has no airport and is a dusty seven-hour drive from the nearest city. As part of the Palace on Wheels route, you wake there after an overnight ride from Udaipur. Jaisalmer’s fort is the only lived-in example in India, and a guided tour takes you past local schools, temples and shops squeezed in between the military and palace buildings.

The train then begins its journey back toward Delhi, stopping in Jodhpur , India’s blue city, before heading onward to Bharatpur . Here you’ll visit Ghana National Park , flourishing wetlands that protect thousands of nesting birds. It’s a key route for migratory birds, and you’ll often see Sarus cranes, egrets and waterfowl.

The train’s finale is a visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal, before returning you to Delhi.

The Deccan Odyssey

The Maharashtra Tourist Board conceived the Deccan Odyssey train as a way to encourage visitors to explore alternative, less-visited parts of India. States such as Maharashtra and the Deccan in central India were difficult to travel through, even for the most determined, with few hotels, guides or roads. Setting up a train service swiftly solved the problem.

Running since 2004, the train has been fully refurbished recently. Its light, airy cabins are now furnished with locally sourced fabrics. You’ll find the wooden furniture, under close scrutiny, is veneered rather than carved wood, but everything is clean and fresh. There are two dining cars, a lounge, a spa and a small gym.

Two deluxe cabins occupy each car, with a butler per car providing a personal service. The service on board is very attentive — I enjoyed tea in my cabin each morning — and you’re given a mobile phone preloaded with your butler’s number.

I couldn’t fault the food served on board, enjoying racks of lamb, a traditional Indian thali and far too many desserts. The dishes are beautifully presented, and the chefs take a real pride in their cooking, walking along the dining cars to check how their dishes have been received.

Deccan Odyssey routes

Each of the Deccan Odyssey’s six routes is focused on a hard-to-travel-in part of India. The seven-night Central India route is by far the most leisurely way to reach the remote ancient monuments at Hampi. But, it’s the seven-night Hidden Treasures of Gujarat route which particularly appeals, as it journeys from Mumbai into the rarely visited northwest state of Gujarat.

Touring through Gujarat, you won’t cross big-name sites off your list, but you will see a part of India that has changed very little. In this predominantly tribal state, you’ll be welcomed into the villages of the Agarias and Rabari tribes. Little is known about these farming communities who live on the outskirts of the Rann of Kutch, the largest salt marsh in the world and an otherworldly glowing white landscape stretching as far as you can see.

The salt marsh is slowly being encroached on by the Gir National Park , the last surviving habitat of the Asiatic lion. Slightly smaller than their African counterparts, Asiatic lions have a shorter mane and are speckled with black, giving them an almost silvery tone. As part of the train’s tour, you can take a safari into the park to track the lions; although they’re notoriously cautious, sightings are common.

Completing a circular route back to Mumbai, the train stops at Hindu and Jain temple sites as well as workshops where you can see some of the state’s textile production. Gujarat silk is well-known as one of the finest fabrics produced in India, made into sarees hand-woven with intricate patterns and a popular Indian wedding attire.

Extending your trip

Most of India’s luxury train journeys finish in Delhi or Mumbai, making it easy to extend your trip by jumping on a short flight. If you’re looking for some time to relax, Goa is a direct flight from either city.

You won’t find pristine white-sand beaches but exotic dark-gold sands, dotted with fishing boats, cafés and craft markets. Panjim, now known simply as Goa’s Old Town, was once the capital of the Portuguese Estado da India (State of India). Streets of Portuguese townhouses have been recently restored and painted bright yellow and pink, mango and papaya trees growing out front.

Start planning your luxury train trip through India

Luxury rail tour: discover central India on the Deccan Odyssey

16 days from $9,770pp

Luxury rail tour: a taste of the Maharajas' Express & western Rajasthan

10 days from $10,300pp

Start thinking about your experience. These itineraries are simply suggestions for how you could enjoy some of the same experiences as our specialists. They’re just for inspiration, because your trip will be created around your particular tastes.

Further reading

• What to do in India: our highlights guide
• India’s toy trains: Shimla, Darjeeling and Ooty
• Choosing the right Indian experience for you
• Food highlights of India: 6 of the best culinary experiences
• More train journey ideas with Audley

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My India Travel Itinerary: 1 Month Across India by Train!

Today I’m sharing my India travel itinerary with you all. One month in India may sound like a long time, but when you’re planning to travel in such a big country, one month can feel like a huge time constraint. Where should you go and what should you do?!

Sam and I ended up in India as part of our annual winter escape with his parents. So far we’ve done Southeast Asia and South America together, and this year they wanted to travel in India.

The two big items on their travel bucket list were the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Ganges in Varanasi; aside from that we were free to plan the whole itinerary.

Sam and I then started talking about Rajasthan, the trip started expanding, and next thing you knew, we were travelling the full width of the country by train from Jaisalmer to Kolkata!

I’ve already shared a few little snippets of our time in India in previous posts, but today I’m going to outline our 1-month India travel itinerary for anyone considering a similar trip.

1-Month India Travel Itinerary

// 4 days //

Our first stop was Delhi and what an introduction to India! It was chaotic, it was colourful, and it was a whirlwind.

We spent our first day touring the Red Fort , which was once the main residence of the Mughal emperors. It may be called a fort, but this place is more like a walled city and you could easily spend half a day here visiting the bazaar, hammam, gardens, courtyards and palaces.

On our second day we toured  Humayun’s Tomb which was commissioned by the Emperor’s wife after his death. It’s a majestic sight with beautiful surrounding grounds.

From there we took a pedal rickshaw to the Lodhi Gardens  which house beautiful tombs and they are a popular spot with families on weekends – we saw birthday parties, picnics, and plenty of cricket games taking place.

Just outside the gardens you also have  Lodi – The Garden Restaurant , which is a bit of a splurge but offers al fresco dining surrounded by nature.

Our third day in Delhi was reserved for visiting Jama Masjid in the morning. This is the largest mosque (by size) in all of India, so we couldn’t leave without a glimpse of the interior.

Keep in mind that the mosque is not open to visitors during prayer times, so you’ll want to plan your visit accordingly.

Many people will tell you to get in and out of Delhi as quickly as possible, but even after three full days there I felt I could have used more time to see the rest of the sights.

If you have a bit more time you can consider visiting: India Gate , Safdarjung’s Tomb , the Lotus Temple ,  Akshardham Temple ,  Jantar Mantar , plus lots of markets.

If you ask me, you need at least a week in Delhi to see it all! You can have a quick look of my Delhi highlights here.

Where I stayed:

Tara Palace Hotel

We booked this hotel because it was a modern property located in a quiet area, yet still within walking distance of the Red Fort. The rooms were spacious and clean, the staff was beyond helpful and friendly, and while there weren’t many restaurants on our street, the hotel served up great meals at their in-house restaurant.

Read reviews for Tara Palace Hotel.

// 3 days //

Jaisalmer was my favourite stop in Rajasthan. Yes, it was a long train ride to get there, but it was worth it in the end!

Jaisalmer, also known as the Golden City, is one of those places that seemingly rises out of the desert like a mirage.

The yellow sandstone buildings blend in with the colours of the sand, and the city has a bit of a magical feel to it.

The main attraction in town is the Jaisalmer Fort , but it’s such a massive place and there is so much to see and do that you could easily revisit again and again over the course of your stay.

Inside the fort, you can tour the  Raj Mahal ,   the palace where royal members resided, and the Jain Temples,  which are renowned for their intricate craftsmanship.

As for souvenir shopping , there is no shortage of shops and stalls selling tapestries, hand-painted postcards , leather goods, metalware, and all sorts of art and crafts.

Jaisalmer’s location also makes it a popular jump off point for camel treks in the Thar Desert .

We did an afternoon trek where we rode camels, climbed dunes to watch the sunset, had dinner, waited for the stars to appear (sadly, it was an overcast night!), and then returned back to the city.

If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous you can camp out for the night or organize a longer tour.

Sam did a 4-day camel trek through the Thar Desert many years back and he’s got some good stories from that trip – including surviving a flash flood that involved climbing trees and then seeking refuge in a small village! – but an afternoon excursion was enough for me.

If you have a bit more time in Jaisalmer you can also consider visiting Bada Bagh , a garden complex about 6 kilometres outside the city, which houses royal cenotaphs (empty tombs).

You can find my full Jaisalmer itinerary here.

Tokyo Palace Hotel

This hotel was amazing and the rooms were full of character – exposed yellow sandstone, window day bed with silk pillows, traditional dark wood furniture, and colourful glass lanterns. They also had a great rooftop restaurant that had the best views of Jaisalmer Fort, plus a second rooftop where you could watch the sunrise. The staff were also very kind and helpful, and they offered a free pick-up and drop-off service at the train station.

Read reviews for Tokyo Palace Hotel.

Next up, we visited Jodhpur, the famed Blue City of Rajasthan . I was expecting it to be similar to Jaisalmer in size, but Jodhpur is a full-blown city that can be a little tricky to navigate.

The main attraction in Jodhpur is  Mehrangarh Fort , a place that looks like the setting of a fairy tale with elements of science fiction.

Mehrangarh Fort houses an impressive museum where you can see paintings, costumes, armour, and furnishings that would have been used by the rulers. 

Inside the fort, there’s also a nice cafe called  Café Mehran which serves up some of the best samosas I had in India.

We also visited the Sardar Market which encircles the Clock Tower. It was not my favourite area, but that does put you in close proximity to two really good restaurants that we coincidentally discovered.

The first is Indique , which is a rooftop restaurant that’s popular for sunset drinks; and the second is Jhankar , which is set in a lush courtyard and serves up a delicious Rajisthani thali – this was my favourite restaurant in town!

When we weren’t eating in Jodhpur (and it seems that we visited more restaurants than we did attractions!), we were wandering the blue maze that is this city.

Jewel Palace Haweli

We got the Deluxe Room with Castle View and like the name suggests, we had amazing views of the fort and the blue city. Yes, that picture you see right above was taken from our hotel! While I loved staying in a traditional haveli, we did find the staff quite forgetful – we had to repeatedly ask for things like bedsheets, towels and toilet paper. So although I would recommend staying at a haveli as it’s such a unique type of accommodation, I would also suggest finding a property with better ratings. You can browse havelis in Jodhpur here.

Read reviews for Jewel Palace Haveli.

We then travelled to Jaipur, which is nicknamed the Pink City.

The attractions in Jaipur were beautiful, but we also signed up for a day tour that turned into a bit of a nightmare.

I would not recommend the day tour operated by RTDC (Rajasthan Tourism Development Commission); we raced from attraction to attraction with an unhappy guide who lost half the people in his group, scheduled several commission-based shopping stops, and had a very negative attitude, but that’s a story for another day.

If I were to redo my time in Jaipur, I would try to cover less attractions and visit these on my own, perhaps only hiring a driver to get me to some of the further sites.

Our longest stop of the day was at the  City Palace and I’m glad we had the time to visit this place thoroughly.

The City Palace is a complex housing several buildings within it and you could easily spend half a day wandering around.

You have  Mubarak Mahal , housing a textile museum; Chandra Mahal , the residence of the descendants of the former rulers of Jaipur;  Diwan-i-Khas , the Hall of Private Audience;  Diwan-i-Am , the Hall of Public Audience; and plenty more.

Just a short walk from the City Palace, you also have Jantar Mantar , which is a collection of architectural astronomical instruments that were built in the 18th century.

There are a total of 19 instruments that would have been used to study the planets and the stars, and it kind of made me wish they did night tours so we could actually see these instruments put in action.

Alas, the site closes at 4:30 in the afternoon!

On our tour we raced to three different forts – Nahargarh Fort, Jaigarh Fort, and the Amber Fort –  but to be honest, our visits were so brief that I can’t say I truly saw any of them.

If I had to redo it, I would have chosen one fort – probably the Amber Fort since it’s just outside Jaipur – and focused on enjoying that one to the max.

Another major landmark that we only got to see in passing through the bus window was Hawa Mahal , also known as the Palace of Winds.

This is a pink structure that kind of resembles a honeycomb, which was used by ladies of the royal household who wanted to observe processions and everyday life in the city, but remain unseen.

Jai Niwas Garden Hotel

We stayed at a little boutique hotel that had a bit of an old British feel. What sold me were the gardens complete with outdoor furniture so that you could enjoy a book or a cup of tea out on the lawn after a long day of sightseeing. The staff at this hotel were also very sweet, always helping us with directions and offering to find us transportation when needed.

Read reviews for Jai Niwas Garden Hotel.

Our first full day in Agra was a Friday, which meant the Taj Mahal was closed for visitors, so we decided to visit Agra Fort instead.

This was the residence of the Mughal emperors before they moved their capital over to Delhi and built the Red Fort, so it was kind of cool spotting some of the similarities between the two places.

The following day we made it to the Taj Mahal , which was even more beautiful in person than I expected.

It’s funny, sometimes when you’ve seen a place in photos or documentaries, it can be a bit of a let down in person, but that was not the case with the Taj. It radiated against the bright blue skies, and then once we got closer we were able to see all the arabesques and floral details done in precious stones.

We also made time to visit the Taj Protected Forest , which is located just outside the east gate. This is a nice scenic walk and because there are a few lookout points you also get views of the Taj Mahal off in the distance.

Lastly, before hopping on the overnight train , we visited the Baby Taj , whose real name is the Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah.

This tomb was built for Mizra Ghiyas Beg, who was the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal (the woman the Taj Mahal was built for). 

This was the first Mughal structure to be built entirely out of marble and it’s often compared to a jewellery box because it is covered in semi-precious stones.

From the Baby Taj, it’s only a short drive to Mehtab Bagh , or the Moonlight Garden.

The gardens sit directly behind the Taj and across the river, so it’s a popular spot to catch the sunset. 

You can read this post for a better look at the places we visited in Agra .

The Coral Court Homestay Hotel

Alright, so this was my favourite hotel of the whole trip! Not only was it a beautiful property lovingly decorated with trinkets from around the world , but it was also a short walk from East Gate, which made it very easy to get to the Taj Mahal on foot. I also loved that in the evenings we had the option of having dinner with the other hotel guests in a communal setting. They served home cooked vegetarian meals and we devoured every last bowl of pumpkin and eggplant curries. The hosts were lovely and I would highly recommend this place!

Read reviews of The Coral Court Homestay Hotel.

After taking the overnight train from Agra, we arrived in Varanasi, which was the second last destination of our month in India.

The main attraction in Varanasi is the Ganges River and everything that happens along the water’s edge, so we spent our first morning walking along the ghats (the steps leading down to the river).

There was so much going on that we almost didn’t know where to look, but what surprised me the most was seeing people doing laundry in the Ganges! What?!?!?!

Hotel towels and bedsheets were being washed in the dark waters and these were then being draped to dry in the sun on the ghats.

Laundry was happening not too far from where bodies were being cremated, and then people were bathing so close to the cremation site that the ashes were floating around their ankles…

I think that was the moment when I experienced culture shock in India .

Another popular activity in Varanasi is to go on a boat ride down the Ganges River . Sunrise and sunset draw people for soft, golden light – if you want the buildings to be illuminated, you’ll want to go at sunrise.

Hotels and tour operators across town can help you arrange this outing, or you can just walk down to the river and find a boatman on the spot.

We also attended the  Ganga Aarti ceremony which takes place on Dashashwamedh Ghat starting at 6:45 p.m.

This fire worship ceremony is performed by a group of priests soon after sundown, and crowds gather to watch them sing, burn incense, and light candles.

Places fill up fast so it’s good to arrive early if you want to snag a spot near the action. Some of the temples along the ghats offer priority seating for a small fee (about 50 rupees) where you can observe the ceremony from a high vantage point, or you can also pay to watch from a boat.

Where I stayed:  

Ganges Grand Hotel

I stayed at the Ganges Grand Hotel and while it was a great location and the rooms were clean and spacious, the hotel was located in a busy intersection, which meant the honking and traffic noise could be heard in the background from sunup to sundown. If you’re a light sleeper, you may want to look elsewhere, but aside from that I have no real complaints. They also served up some delicious Indian dishes in their restaurant. You can browse hotels in Varanasi here.

Read reviews of Ganges Grand Hotel.

This brings us to our final stop in India: Kolkata.

Admittedly, I didn’t do a whole lot of sightseeing in Kolkata since I got quite ill just before leaving Varanasi, but I did manage to explore a bit of the area on my last day there.

Sam and I visited the  Sir Stuart Hogg Market (also known as New Market), photographed the iconic yellow cabs, and then finished the day at Blue & Beyond , which is a nice little rooftop resto-bar in the Lindsay Hotel.

I would have liked to visit Mother Theresa’s Home , see the Victoria Memorial Hall , and walk around the Maidan , but sometimes you just can’t win them all.

Where I stayed: 

I can’t recommend the hotel where I stayed since I ended up sharing the room with a mouse! The Astoria Hotel looked great in photos, but we were placed in the “Old Wing”, which looked nothing like what we saw online. We found cigarette butts in the bathroom, a dirty shower, mouldy walls, but what’s worse was the staff’s lack of interest in their guests. Despite my hotel’s shortcomings, I did enjoy the neighbourhood, so I would suggest staying just east of the Maidan in what’s known as Colootola – you can search for Kolkata hotels here. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in this area, plus it also puts you within walking distance of many of the attractions.

And that finally concludes my month-long India travel itinerary .

We visited a total of 7 destinations, giving ourselves 3-4 days in each place, and travelling entirely by train .

I will say that travel in India is exhausting in ways that other destinations aren’t – don’t go into it thinking it’ll be a walk in the park! – but we also saw some beautiful sights and architectural wonders that made it all worth it.

More posts from India with practical travel tips coming soon.

Nice one Audrey!

This is a really cool itinerary. And I like the way that you dedicated 3 to 4 days on your trip. ‘So much more relaxing!

Yes, I’ve been to India. 12 years ago now. Eek! And what an experience! I went there solo, travelled with a Swiss girl that I bumped into for 2 weeks, then continued on solo again. I was there for a month! I loved everything except for Delhi and the train journey. And the thing is, I spent about 4 days in Delhi – 2 days at the beginning of my trip, and 2 days at the end. It was the right thng to do but by then I was pretty exhausted and just wanted to go home!

Ha! Ha! I’m taking the family next year! p.s. I would also add Udaipur. It really was lovely.

http://thebritishberliner.com

This is definitely a great itinerary for a first trip to Northern India if you want to see all the main highlights in a month! I can highly recommend Bundi in Rajasthan if you want to get a bit off the beaten track – it has an awesome fort (with a real Indiana Jones feel!) that was practically empty when I was there!

Such an amazing trip Audrey, took me back to my memories!

India is such a crazy place, sometimes it gets overwhelming but as soon as you leave the country you kind of miss it. We visited more or less the same places, I fell in love with Varanasi; that place is out of this world! I still miss that spiritual feeling, would definitely turn back one day.

I had had a bit of problem with transportation (who doesn’t) and gotten pretty sick of spending money and time on my arrival, I created this one for travelers. Leaving it here for your future travels, it shows all the possible transportation options between airport and the city center so we don’t end up getting ripped by a taxi driver or spend time and money. here it is: http://airporttocenter.com/

Enjoy your travels!

Thanks so much, will definitely be referring to this when I trek to India next year, cheers

What a gorgeous blog, I was looking for India inspo and came across your posts. I remember visiting some of these places but my photos from 10+ years ago are not up to scratch and doesn’t capture the essence of India like yours does. Thanks for sharing, I’ve been dreaming of going back to India with the kids and this post makes me want to go now!

Love this post! It’s making me all kinds of excited for my trip coming up! Question for you – how did you deal with safety in India? especially when travelling by train? Also, what kind of luggage did you take?

Really a wonderful post. Thanks for posting such an informative & useful post with us. I would especially interested in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Those palaces in the desert are so beautiful!

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Ten top Indian rail journeys

F rom Wes Anderson and Danny Boyle to Michael Palin and Paul Theroux, Indian Railways have entranced dreamers, intrigued authors and inspired filmmakers. That's because there's no other railway like them on Earth.

With 18 million daily passengers, 1.4 million employees and 17,000 trains operating on 64,000 kilometres of track, it's a locomotive pick and mix of sizes, speeds, shapes and colours – and that's just the passengers.

Last November I read an article about India's budget airlines now connecting over 80 cities – but they still couldn't reach into the country's nooks and crannies: the tea estates of Ledo in Assam; Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of India where three oceans meet; Dwarka, the birthplace of Lord Krishna on the westernmost corner of Gujarat, or Jammu's mutinous hills in the north; but there was always a train that could inch into every single place – no matter how remote.

Home to ancient toy trains, royal trains, Mumbai's infamous passenger trains, the new Duronto Express speed trains and even a hospital on wheels, I knew the Indian Railways would have a few tales to tell. Taking a page out of Jules Verne's classic tale, I decided to travel Around India in 80 Trains with Norwegian photographer Harald Haugan in tow, and write a book about the adventure.

Between mid-January and May we covered an epic 36,000km – almost the circumference of the Earth – and have selected below the 10 journeys that best reflect the unrivalled diversity of travelling around India by train.

1. Goa Express

Route: Vasco da Gama (Goa) to Londa (Karnataka)

On a Sunday afternoon, this train inches past Goan beaches as families splash in the water, friends chat in huddles by the track and the smoke from late afternoon cooking floats into the carriages. Bright pink blossoms hang so close you can reach out and touch them as the train cuts straight into the heart of Goan village life. As it approaches the Western Ghats, the train speeds up through thick jungle, hugging the curves of the mountainside. Keep your eyes peeled for waterfalls in the distance, which increase as the trees thin and the view turns to deep valleys and peaks. On the approach to Londa the sun should just be setting which gives the strange red clay surroundings an ominous glow.

Journey time: 3 hours 30 mins; £2 travelling in sleeper class

2. Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express

Route: New Jalpaiguri (West Bengal), Tinsukia , Ledo (Assam)

Technically, this involves two trains, but you can't take the second without the first as the Tinsukia to Ledo segment is the easternmost tip of the railway. Starting in West Bengal, the super-fast Rajdhani reaches Assam in no time, vast stretches of emerald green paddy and tea plantations on both sides. Unlike south India's rolling greenery, this expanse is completely flat. As night falls, the train sweeps past the Brahmaputra river on the approach to Guwahati and crawls through the city's slums. Hop off the steps and you'll land in someone's cooking. From Tinsukia, the morning passenger train blasts through awe-inspiring landscape before arriving at the end of the track having squeezed past the backs of people's houses so closely you can see what they're eating for breakfast.

Journey time: 16 hours 30 minutes then 1 hr 30 to Ledo; £17 in second-class sleeper with AC

3. Nizamuddin Duronto Express

Route: Pune (Maharashtra) to New Delhi

One of a new handful of non-stop express trains connecting major cities, the Duronto Express from Pune to Delhi cuts six hours off the normal 26-hour journey. It covers a fantastic route with the most varied topography and the onboard service is excellent. From 11am until sunset, the train trundles past rivers, deserts, mountains and villages and alongside pyramid-like salt mounds drying in the sunshine. Brand new Durontos – meaning "quick" in Bengali – offer tasty meals included in the ticket price, second to none cleanliness, new interiors and a sleeker design for reading lights, phone sockets, berths and bottle holders. The added benefit is that the trains are also derailment-proof.

Journey time: 20 hours; £28 in second class A/C sleeper

4. Mandovi Express

Route: Madgaon (Goa) to Mumbai

Sandwiched between the Sahyadri hills on the east and the Arabian sea on the west, the Konkan Railway is a stunning route up to Mumbai that hugs India's southwest coastline. The British considered its construction but abandoned the daunting task, leaving it to the Indians to bore through mountains, cross hundreds of rivers and build 92 tunnels and 2,000 bridges – of which the Panvalnadi bridge is currently the highest viaduct in India. The train doors are usually left open on this breathtaking journey that takes you through sunlit paddy fields lined with coconut and mango trees, small villages bursting with wild flowers and over endless stretches of water leading out to sea.

Journey time: 12 hours 15 mins; £15.50 second class A/C sleeper

5. Indian Maharaja Deccan Odyssey

Route: Mumbai to Delhi

Once the ruler of India's railways, the Palace on Wheels has now been dethroned by younger relatives. The elegant Indian Maharaja Deccan Odyssey connects Mumbai and Delhi via Rajasthan and is the closest option to travelling like the Rajput kings once did - so it's not cheap. It is possible to cover the same route by passenger train, but as most local trains are overnight sleepers without air-conditioning, you lose the charm and beauty of the scenery. During the day, you can go tiger-spotting in Ranthambore , visit the rapidly deteriorating caves at Ellora and Ajanta and spend an afternoon at the Taj Mahal. Onboard activities include watching Octopussy from under a giant duvet, dining in a choice of two splendid cars, reading some Kipling in the lounge, or sipping Bombay Sapphire gin while the golden-red magnificence of the Thar desert blasts by.

Great Rail Journeys (+44 (0)1904 521936,  Greatrail.com ) offers a 10-night tour, including seven nights on the Indian Maharaja Deccan Odyssey plus flights, from £2,925pp based on two sharing

6. Island Express

Route: Kanyakumari (Tamil Nadu) to Trivandrum (Kerala)

Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of India and a sacred spot where three oceans meet, is a great point to start an adventure on the railways. The Island Express leaves at 10.30am and takes just over two hours to reach Trivandrum. As it inches through dense greenery, tightly-packed palm trees and long grassy verges, typical of Kerala, the train fills with a cool lemony-green hue – so sit in general class to guarantee a good view from the doors and open windows. Giant creepers hang down from the jungle-like expanse and if you look carefully in between, you'll see little churches and houses painted like sugared-almonds, ladies banging washing and men squatting in circles playing cards.

Journey time: 2 hours 15 mins; 40p in general class

7. Himalayan Queen

Route: Kalka (Haryana) to Shimla (Himachal Pradesh)

India's pretty little metre-gauge railway - famous for its 102 tunnels, 87 bridges and 900 curves - was built in 1903 when English ladies would take their leave of the heat and "summer" in Shimla . But it's satisfying to see the train used by commuters and those selling their wares up and down the hillside, rather than functioning solely for camera-wielding tourists. As Shimla approaches, orchards bloom with tiny red flowers and thin rivulets of water running down ledges suggest that, post-monsoon, waterfalls must be rife. Cows frequently linger on the track, but the train stops regularly en route anyway so passengers can hop off to loiter and enjoy tea and hot pakoras.

Journey Time: 5 hours 10 mins; 46 pence each way

8. Jammu Mail

Route: Jammu to Udhampur (Jammu state)

Construction of this 53km stretch of railway from Jammu to Udhampur has extended the northernmost reach of the Indian Railways into the foothills of the Himalayas. It's another incredible engineering feat that weaves around the rocky faces of the Shivalik mountain range, over wide-mouthed rivers and plunging valleys. Over 20 tunnels and 158 bridges offer up jaw-dropping views, especially from across the Gambhir bridge. On the approach to Udhampur, the land flattens out into something resembling English meadows. And if you're waiting for the frequently delayed train, the station restaurant at Jammu Tawi does the best omelette sandwiches.

Journey time: 3-hour round-trip; 27p each way

9. Golden Chariot

Route: Bangalore (Karnataka) to Goa

The train weaves across Karnataka, once home to the Vijayanagara kings who ruled in south India, and is a popular choice with Indian families on holiday. En route the tour stops at Kabini wildlife sanctuary before arriving at the incredible world heritage sites of Hampi and Badami , strewn for miles with boulders, rock-cut sandstone caves and palace and temple ruins. Sit by your cabin window the evening before arriving in Goa and watch the sun stream through the forests before setting on the hills. You'll find this stretch relatively tourist-free. Onboard the rooms are neat, elegant and well-equipped, en-suite showers are hot and powerful, and the swaying dining cars are straight out of an Agatha Christie novel.

Kuoni (01306 747008, kuoni.co.uk ) offers nine nights on the Golden Chariot train journey, including flights and transfers, from £2,965pp based on two sharing

10. The Toy Train

Route: New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling (West Bengal)

Darjeeling's tiny steam train was initially built as a tramway to exploit the difference in the price of potatoes between Darjeeling and Siliguri, and the hill railway is now considered a World Heritage Site. Travelling at a speed of 12kmph, the Toy Train trundles through dense forests, curving around tea plantations and bringing you as close as possible to the tea-pickers with baskets strapped on their heads. Famous for its reverses, loops and the spiral at Agony Point, the railway line eventually criss-crosses the main road through the town and runs alongside the fruit stalls in the street. Above all, if it's a clear day, you should see the snow-capped tip of Kanchenjunga.

Journey time: 7 hours 15 min; 60pence in standard class

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• 18 Beautiful Train Journeys In India In 2024 That Will Compel You For A Ride!

Planning a vacation rarely encompasses a train expedition nowadays. But if it does, it certainly takes us back to the childhood days when holidaying meant embarking on beautiful train journeys in India . It also meant admiring the changing landscapes as the train passed through towns and villages; playing cards or memory game; chitchatting over warm tea in earthen cups (locally called Kulhad); yummy munchies and lot more! This time round, we take you on some of the most beautiful train routes in India that cover absolutely enthralling and diverse landscapes – steep mountain slopes, narrow valleys, and wide seas.

18 Most Beautiful Train Journeys In India

Go through the list of these most beautiful train rides in India and make sure you head to one of them, the one that you find to be truly out of this world. You will realize the journey is nothing short of a dream. There’s mountains, waterfalls, rivers, plains, deserts and every possible landscape that you can imagine of. They are spread across the northern frontier to the southern frontier. Have a look!

• Jammu – Baramulla
• Pathankot – Jogindernagar
• Kalka – Shimla
• Jaisalmer – Jodhpur
• Mumbai – Goa
• Hubli – Madgaon
• Matheran – Neral
• Karjat – Lonavala
• Ratnagiri – Mangalore
• Mandapam – Rameshwaram
• Mettupalayam – Ooty
• Vishakhapatnam – Araku Valley
• Bangalore – Kanyakumari
• Hassan – Mangalore
• Bhubaneshwar – Brahmapur
• New Jalpaiguri – Darjeeling
• Alipurduar – Jalpaiguri
• Guwahati – Silchar

1. Jammu – Baramulla

Kashmir Railway Gifts you Travel Charisma

Image Source

The railway track connecting Jammu, Udhampur, Srinagar and Baramulla is not only picturesque and enthralling but also one the most challenging railway projects. It is located in the high earthquake intensity zone with undulating and rugged terrain, extreme cold temperature, and is the most beautiful railway route in India .

Train Journey Time : 4 hours

Must Read: 30 Unbelievably Beautiful Places To Visit In Kashmir One Cannot Miss

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2. Pathankot – Jogindernagar

Mystics of Kangra Valley

Image Source If you want to enjoy the thrills of Kangra Valley, the river bridges, deep gorges and exclusive flora, enjoy the pleasant but quite slow ride of 164 km from Pathankot to Jogindernagar in Himachal Pradesh. It is not only located at a challenging height, but is also one of the most scenic train routes in India .

Train Journey Time : 8 hours

Suggested Read : 43 Famous Historical Places In India To Visit

3. Kalka – Shimla

A Spellbinding Journey to the Summer Capital

If you want to cherish picturesque valleys, steep pathways and foggy meadows, travel to Shimla in the narrow gauge train. This little toy train, now considered as World Heritage Site by UNESCO, starts from Kalka and travels 96 km upslope through 102 tunnels: (the longest tunnel located at Barog), 82 bridges, deep valleys, steep curves, rolling bends, forests of deodar and rhododendron, pine and oak.

Few trains like Siwalik, Kalka-Shimla, Himalayan Queen, Rail Motor and Siwalik Queen ply on this route. The journey is truly enchanting but at a slow pace as the train ascends the slope rhythmically through stations of Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Tara Devi, Barog, Salogra, Totu, and Summerhill to reach the summer capital. It is one of the best in north Indian and most beautiful train journeys in India .

Train Journey Time : 5 hours

Suggested Read: 53 Best Places To Visit In Shimla On Your Soothing Weekend Getaway!

4. Jaisalmer – Jodhpur

Xerophytic Route

The Rajasthan trip which is otherwise full of colors, can have an extra bright shade if you travel to Jaisalmer from Jodhpur in Delhi Jaisalmer Express. The travel time in the train called the ‘Desert Queen’ takes close to 6 hours to reach the destination.

The journey is not at all monotonous. In fact you see diversified topography like typical desert landscape with xerophytic vegetation, yellow soil, dunes, grazing camels and scattered settlements of the desert inhabitants. The passengers will surely get a feel of the desert safari before reaching the land of the Golden Fort. This is amongst the most beautiful train journeys in India .

Suggested Read : Longest Rivers In India: Know About The Important Water Bodies Of The Country

5. Mumbai – Goa

Journey through the Enigmatic Ghats

The journey from Mumbai to Goa intersecting through the gorges of Sahyadari and fringes of Arabian Sea is equally or perhaps the most scenic train rides in India . Mandovi Express, as a part of the Konkan Railway network, travels between Mumbai and Goa.

The route is full of scenic landscapes, ranging from tunnels, bridges, coastal peripheries, steps of Western Ghats (other name for Sahyadari), innumerable small rivers, seasonal streams and lush green meadows. Do not forget to take out your handicam or camera and capture the highlights of one of the stunning and beautiful train journeys in India .

Train Journey Time : 12 hours

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6. Hubli – Madgaon

Vasco da Gama Route

Image Source While travelling from Hubli to Madgaon, experience one of the most thrilling and enchanting train journeys in India. The train passes through the gigantic and most magnificent Dudhsagar waterfalls gushing out from a 300 metres in full vigor.

Once the train reaches the waterfall, you will be amazed at the cascading beauty and force on a thrilling and best train journeys in India. If you decide to enjoy it closely, quickly get down at Londa junction, which is the nearest station to Dudhsagar falls.

Train Journey Time : 10 hours

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7. Matheran – Neral

Heritage of Maharashtra

The narrow gauge railway running between Matheran and Neral passes is one of the best train routes in India. It passes through the rugged terrains of the Ghats and gained immense tourist attraction. This only Heritage railway of Maharashtra running a distance of 20 km is surely included in the list of India’s best train journeys. This is one of the best train routes in India .

Train Journey Time : 2 hours

Suggested Read: Top 38 Weekend Getaways From Mumbai For The Love Of Traveling

8. Karjat – Lonavala

Monsoon Trip

Another line that passes through the Western Ghats is the journey from Karjat to Lonavala through Thakurwadi, Monkey Hills and Khandala. It is the very scenic and one of the best train routes in India known for its mystic nature. Monsoon season is recommended because of the lush green views and beautiful rain scenery that it offers. The ride is pure scenery and being hill stations connected by train, it is the most adventurous way to reach the destinations.

Train Journey Time : 1 hour

Suggested Read: 21 Hill Stations Near Mumbai To Soothe Your Senses On A Trip

9. Ratnagiri – Mangalore

Charming Konkan Railway

Image Source One of the most mesmerizing railway tracks lies in the Konkan Railway network, in the Ratnagiri to Mangalore sector. The is one of the most scenic train journeys in India which is truly absorbing and wherein the dense forests, mighty Western Ghats, deep tunnels, river bridges, sharp bends and innumerable seasonal streams will leave the travelers spellbound and hypnotized.

Suggested Read: 20 Road Trips During Monsoon In India That Every Biker Ought To Take

10. Mandapam – Rameshwaram

Journey Intersecting the Ocean

Image Source Besides thrill and adventure, train travel from Mandapam in Tamil Nadu to Rameshwaram on Pamban Island oozes calm and serenity. It is certainly one of the top ten best Indian train journeys. One of the most beautiful train routes in India, it passes over the second longest bridge of India, the Palk Strait, which is the only route that connects mainland India to Pamban Island.

Suggested Read : 15 Offbeat Places In South India That Will Make You Go ‘WOW’ With Natural Beauty!

11. Mettupalayam – Ooty

Voyage in Landscapes of Nilgiris

Image Source Running since 1908, ‘Nilgiri Passenger’ still runs on steam engine, going from Mettupalayam to Ooty. As the train ascends the Nilgiri Mountain, thick pine, oak and eucalyptus forests, bends, curves and tunnels, it moves along Asia’s steepest track with maximum gradient of 8.33 percent. Nilgiri Passenger travels 26 km up the slope in almost 5 hours via stations like Kallar, Adderly, Hillgrove, Kateri, Runneymede, Kateri, Coonoor and Lovedale.

Suggested Read: 25 Mesmerizing Hill Stations In South India That Are A Must Visit

12. Vishakhapatnam – Araku Valley

The Tunnel Topography

Image Source The journey from Vishakhapatnam to Araku Valley through innumerable tunnels and sharp loops is quite an interesting one. Started as a mode to transport iron ore and other minerals to Vishakhpatnam from Chhattisgarh, this railway route in India is a treat for the eyes as well as the soul.

Train Journey Time : 3 hours

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13. Bangalore – Kanyakumari

The Malgudi Voyage

Image Source Another scenic journey through the typical landscape of South India – the picturesque villages, plantations, meadows and water bodies is from Bangalore to Kanyakumari. The Island Express travels 944 km in about 19.5 hours and surely take you the land of ‘Malgudi Days’, undoubtedly paving its way to the list of best train journeys in India.

Train Journey Time : 15 hours

Suggested Read: 35 Road Trips From Bangalore You Must Plan With Your Friends

14. Hassan – Mangalore

Magical Malnad

Witness a pleasant train journey through scenic waterfalls, lofty mountains, palm plantations and rice meadows from Hassan to Mangalore. Railway voyage along this stretch of the Malnad region is truly refreshing and perfect delight for travelers.

Train Journey Time : 1 and half hours

Suggested Read : Discover 6 Incredible Rain Forests In India For A Memorable Wildlife Adventure

15. Bhubaneshwar – Brahmapur

The Serene Journey

Image Source Another of most beautiful train journeys in India is from Bhubaneshwar to Brahmapur, with lush green Malyadri on one side and serene Chilika Lake on the other. You may be lucky enough to see lots of migratory birds, so don’t forget your camera. You can capture the glimpse of the best lakes in Odisha while traveling through this train. 

Suggested Read : Mountain Biking In India: 10 Most Thrilling Adventure That Is A Must Try

16. New Jalpaiguri – Darjeeling

The Heritage Voyage to the Summer Resort of British Raj

Image Source How good does it feel to ride through hill stations connected by train? A pleasant upslope journey from the foothill region through loops, turns and bends can be experienced from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling. The 78 km long quaint journey takes almost 8 hours and passes through Siliguri Town, Siliguri Junction, Sukna, Rangtong, Tindharia, Mahanadi, Kurseong, Tung, Sonada, Ghum, Rongbul, Jorebunglow and Batasia Loop.

Though the journey, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is sluggish but certainly leisurely. The surrounding hill-valley topography, especially from Ghum (the highest narrow gauge railway station in India) and Batasia Loop, adds extra flavors of delight to your trip.

Train Journey Time : 7 hours

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17. Alipurduar – Jalpaiguri

Jungle Safari on the Wheels

Want to pass through dense forest and see elephants and rhinos while passing by? Plan a train journey in the foothills region of North Bengal. Travelling to Alipurduar, Jayanti, Moorti, Samsing, Baux and Jalpaiguri will take you through the reserve forests of Gorumara, Jaldapara, Mahananda and Buxa while crossing seasonal streamlets.

Suggested Read : 20 Unbelievable Experiences In India That You Must Add On Your Bucket List To Enjoy An Offbeat Escape

18. Guwahati – Silchar

Awes of Assam

Image Source This journey meanders through river Jatinga, lush green Assam Valley, tea plantations and undulating Haflong valley. The route from Guwahati to Silchar via Lumding and Barak Valley makes it one of the most beautiful train journeys in India. The train makes you witness the beauty of hill stations in Assam .

Train Journey Time : 9 hours

Further Read: 23 Types of People You Meet While Travelling in an Indian Train

Aren’t all these beautiful train journeys in India absolutely stunning? If you have more to the list, share us with them in the comments below, and let the word spread. But for now, plan your holiday in India  with TravelTriangle to experience these wonderful train rides. We have no doubt that these rides will sweep you off your feet and make your heart skip a beat.

Disclaimer : TravelTriangle claims no credit for images featured on our blog site unless otherwise noted. All visual content is copyrighted to its respectful owners. We try to link back to original sources whenever possible. If you own the rights to any of the images, and do not wish them to appear on TravelTriangle, please contact us and they will be promptly removed. We believe in providing proper attribution to the original author, artist or photographer.

Frequently Asked Questions About Beautiful Train Journeys In India

Is it safe to travel in Indian trains during COVID times?

You need to follow all the mandatory guidelines mentioned by the authorities to ensure your safety. Wear mask while traveling in train or being at the railway station, avoid crowds and maintain social distancing. Keep sanitizing your hands regularly. You can also carry a disinfectant spray to disinfect your seat and surroundings.

Which is the best train in India?

This is no definite answer to this because of the way you define best. It could be in terms of service or the route it runs on. If you have to pick one, Samjhauta Express would be the best train of India as it connects India and Pakistan displaying the amazing coordination between the two countries with communal tensions. It connects Amritsar with Lahore.

Which is the long-distance train in India?

Vivek Express is the longest distance train in India that connects Dibrugarh in Assam with Kanyakumari in Tamil Nadu. The train runs weekly and takes about 79 hours to complete a journey of 4234 km. It has 57 intermediate stoppages. Whoa! Imagine the journey that would be on this train.

Which are the dangerous train routes in India?

Chennai - Rameswaram route is considered to be the most dangerous train route in India. It is ironic because it is also a pilgrimage route. So, your faith in God is put to test when you travel on this train. The 2.3 km long stretch of this train runs over the ocean fighting strong winds and tides that make this journey dangerous and testing.

Which are the best train journeys from Bangalore?

The train journey from Bangalore to Kanyakumari is the most scenic one. Ditch the car ride and take the train instead if you want to enjoy the scenery

Which is the longest rail bridge in India?

The longest rail bridge in India is the Vembanad Rail Bridge that connects Vallarpadam and Edappally in Kerala’s Kochi. The bridge is 4.62 km long and dedicated only to good trains.

Is the Indian railways run by private or public?

The Indian railways is a public railway organization run by the Ministry of Railways, Government of India.

Which is the fastest train in India?

The Vande Bharat Express or Train 18 is currently the fastest train in India with a maximum operational speed of 180 km/h. The average speed of the train is around 102 km/h.

Which railway station has the most number of platforms in India?

Howrah Junction in Kolkata, West Bengal is one of the largest junctions in the country and a perfect bridge between North, South, East and West India. It has 23 platforms that spread in a huge area.

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Travel Routes through India: Explore India in 4 weeks

Last Updated on November 21, 2023

Travelling in India for a month? This article will explore travel routes through India in one month. The famous saying goes, ‘a life time is not enough to explore all of India’ , and rightly so. Therefore, we suggest that one month in India is the least amount of time you would want to spend here.

There is no single best route to travel across India, so we have provided 5 different routes. Each outline covers 4 weeks in India and includes an overview of the routes, the destinations, the highlights, and the modes of travel.

The suggested routes are moderate to fast-paced trips, that contain the drawbacks of the tours. They also have an approximate indicative budget for each route, going from backpackers to luxury travellers. You can compare different routes of travelling in India and see what you should be prepared to miss out on. The E-Visa and Visa On Arrival have made India a much simpler place to get to for travellers wanting to visit India.

Read more to understand the best time to visit India and cost of travel in India.

Table of Contents

travel routes through India – route 1: the classic north and south

Route 1: delhi – varanasi – agra – jaipur – jaisalmer – jodhpur – udaipur – mumbai – goa – hampi – kerala ( route on googlemaps ).

This travel route through India is one of the most popular month-long routes for travellers, especially with backpackers . This route has you starting in the historically rich capital of Delhi. Head east to visit Varanasi, one of the oldest continually inhabited cities known to civilization. Travel west to visit the Taj Mahal, and then loop around the desert state of Rajasthan.

While traveling in India, you’ll get to explore cities rich in culture and character in Rajasthan (Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur). You can also take part in the Camel Safari & the Desert Camp in Jaisalmer. End the northern leg of your trip in Udaipur before taking a bus or flight to Mumbai. Travelling to the South is more relaxing, as you’ll be travelling along the same coast as Mumbai . Relax on the beaches in Goa. Explore the boulders and rice fields of the time-bound Hampi. Visit the beautiful state of Kerala known for its backwaters and its tea plantations.

For a more detailed explanation on travelling in India and the best things to do in North India and South India , visit our blogs.

Explore More: Discover Exciting Activities in India

Depending on when you are looking to travel, this travel route through India can be quite busy. This is one of the most frequented routes by travellers wanting to visit India. If you plan on picking it, we suggest you ensure all your transport and accommodation is booked well in advance .

Since all these places are popular among tourists, it’s likely you will bump into more than a few on this trip. While that isn’t always a bad thing, but if you’d like to avoid the crowds we’d suggest you travel a little early (mid July – September) .   While the North would have great weather, the South would be wet, but beautiful.

Backpacker! Boutique! or mix and match, we can help you plan a well thought and cost effective month across India.

Cost of a four week tour across North and South India?

In terms of backpacking – dorm beds, day and overnight trains and a possible flight – you could potentially do this tour for as little as 700 EUR. Together, we can cater to your budget when booking hotels and modes of transport. Travelling in India isn’t extremely expensive in regards to spending money, for example, the food is cheap yet healthy.

route 2: a glimpse of the mountains

Route 2: delhi – dharamshala – amritsar – rishikesh – delhi – jaipur – jaisalmer – jodhpur – udaipur – pushkar – agra – varanasi ( route on googlemaps ).

Being home to a billion people, a million Gods and plenty of wacky rituals, India is also home to the incredible Himalayas. This is the best possible travel route for people who have only a month in India and want to combine their trip to India with a trek in Nepal (Everest Base Camp/Annapoorna Mountain Pass).

You will begin your trip in Delhi, a city extremely central to some of the most prominent locations in North India. From here on, head north to Dharamshala (home to the Dalai Lama), followed by Amritsar (known for the beautiful Golden Temple) and Rishikesh (the Yoga capital of the world, also known for its adventure sports).

After Rishikesh, you come back to Delhi before heading southwest, this time in to Rajasthan. Start with the state’s three gems – Jaipur, Jodhpur & Udaipur – before visiting Pushkar and Agra and then taking an overnight train to Varanasi. Varanasi is quite intense, it’s one of the oldest civilizations in the world and also a great place to end your trip in India. If you’re up for an adventurous assault on the senses, you can take a bus from Varanasi into Nepal.

Luxury Getaways: Hotels in India

Like the first route, this is also extremely popular among travellers, so if you decide to take it, you might want to book your train tickets well in advance. It is a hectic route, so we would recommend it to active travellers.

Apart from that, this is a good route to cover three regions (the Himalayas, Rajasthan and Varanasi) in the month you have in India.

Here’s what our guests who travelled to India with us had to say.

Cost of a mountain tour in India

Again if you plan to backpack, take train and buses you can do the tour for as little as 600 EUR/ 700 USD per person. You would want to double your budget to travel comfortably.

route 3: Exploring the south

Route 3: mumbai – goa – hampi – mysore – bangalore – chennai/pondicherry – trichy/thanjavur – madurai –  munnar – thekkady – alleppey – kochi – varkala ( route on googlemaps ).

As a country, India has a myriad of facets and each region is often drastically different from the last. This travel route through India (the South) will be extremely gratifying – a full trip in itself.

Fly into Mumbai and head South to the fabulous beach state of Goa. Next, you can catch a bus or train to the evergreen Hampi and then spread out across Karnataka from royal Mysore to urban Bangalore before moving southeast to Chennai. Take a long break in Francophile Pondicherry or break it up with the southern spice of Trichy and Madurai. End the trip on the beach in Varkala or carry on to the stunning hill station of Munnar, and the backwaters in Alleppey.

For more detailed information about the best things to do in the South of India , read our blogs. Drawbacks South India is a beautiful region to explore, but it is slightly more expensive compared to the North. Flying into Mumbai and staying there can be quite expensive. There aren’t too many budget options in the South, even though there has been a rise in the number of hostels. It’s also sometimes convenient in the South to hire a car to get from one place to another, which racks up a higher bill than buses.

Plan your journey from the US to India with this helpful resource

route 4: mix it up in south india

Route 4 :  mumbai – goa – hampi – mysore – wayanad – calicut – kochi – munnar – thekkady – alleppey – varkala ( route on googlemaps ).

This route, like the previous one, is all about exploring South India. However, while traveling in India on this route, you will not be travelling southeast. You’ll fly into Mumbai and head South to Goa, Hampi and Mysore before crossing into Kerala and spending the rest of your days exploring God’s own country.

This route is more relaxed and moves at a slower pace than the others, giving you time to soak in the beauty of the South without dropping dead from exhaustion. Getting from Mumbai to Goa to Hampi by bus is not tough, but if you throw in a few trains and maybe a car hire, it’ll be easier.

Drawbacks 

Limited to the South alone, and includes all the same drawbacks as the previous route.

Kerala Awaits: Explore the Best Time to Visit

ROUTE 5: THE NORTH AND THE NORTH EAST

Route 5 :  delhi – bagdogra – gangtok – ravangla – pelling – namchi – darjeeling – kolkata – varanasi – khajuraho – orchha – agra – jaipur – jaisalmer – jodhpur – udaipur – pushkar – delhi ( route on googlemaps ).

The Himalayas, the Taj Mahal and the serene backwaters are a few things that people associate with India. And rightly so! However, India is also home to the divine but underrated Northeast, a virtual paradise nestled in the out-flung arm of the country. So when travelling in India remember this gem as well.

If you are looking to go off the beaten track, this is a great travel route for you to take . Travel through Bagdogra, Gangtok, Ravangla , Pelling, Namchi and Darjeeling, then make your way west to Kolkata; one of the oldest metros in the country. From there you can catch a train to Varanasi, then move through Khajuraho (known for it’s erotic temples), Orchha (the quintessential Indian town), Agra and Rajasthan, before heading back to Delhi.

See Also: Dive into Rajasthan’s Charismatic Destinations

Apart from being diverse, India is also simply large. You may have to take a few flights, Delhi – Badgogra, or Bagdogra – Kolkata to save time, since there is only a month and so much to see and do in it. Travelling in the Northeast could be slightly more expensive as the local transport, though very economical, is inconsistent with its timings. You may want to trade some of your other luxuries on the trip for a comfortable car ride.

Places like Khajuraho and Orchha are beautiful places to visit, but make sure you’ve made travel arrangements in advance. There is a dearth of options and not very great connectivity either.

Further, depending on the time of year you are planning to travel, the North and Northeast can get pretty cold, especially in the mountains. For more information on travelling in India, contact us or check out our blog . Don’t have a month? Here are a few two week itineraries you could follow for North India or the South India . For any further assistance, or for help with planning the trip of a lifetime, simply click on Plan Your Trip .

About Harsh Sonawala

Harsh Sonawala is the co founder of India Someday and since his childhood, he has travelled to different parts of India and the world. The thrill of travelling and sharing his experiences with others was the reason behind starting India Someday. Other than the office where he is conjuring up marketing ideas, he can be found scuba diving in the Andamans or relaxing in a chalet in the Himalayas.

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Hey. My name is Callum and I found your blog through Hippie in Heels. Me and my girlfriend are heading to India for a month is September so this article is super interesting and helpful.

I was wondering if you think that if would be possible to see some of Kerala (flying in from Sri Lanka), before heading north to Mumbai eventually flying to Delhi to explore the surrounding area and some of Rajasthan? Having not been to the country I wouldn’t want to rush it or overlook certain areas by fitting too much in.

Any feedback would be appreciated 🙂

Hi Callum, We are so sorry we missed this comment. If you travel for one month you can certainly combine the south and north of India but it might be a little rushed. But that depends on how many destinations you visit in each region and how you travel in between the regions. Be in touch and we can figure it out together: [email protected]

Best, Your India Someday Team

Hi. Route 1 lookjs great. Is this based on pr8vate transport or public. Also, woukd going to pondicherry after kerala be doable. What cities would fly into and out of?

Hi Michelle,

We can plan any transport and according to any budget you like. Pondicherry after Kerala would only be possible with another domestic flight to Chennai, everything else would take too long. Get in touch with us to plan your trip and we figure something out for you.

Your India Someday Team

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A grand version of a blue limousine, the Deccan Odyssey train includes all the flavors, traditions, and authenticity of India. With its royal carriages, take a closer look at the lives of local people at several Indian destinations. Begin your rail journey to explore the royal palaces, historical monuments, sandy beaches, ancient caves, and other religious sites.

History –  Maharashtra Tourism Rail Corporation (MTDC) after taking inspiration from the royal carriages used by Indian royals, brought Deccan Odyssey to life. MTDC Deccan Odyssey took its first journey on 16 January 2004 and since then, this deluxe train has never failed to impress its guests with top-notch services and warm hospitality.

Journeys –   Maharashtra Splendor ,  Indian Odyssey ,  Indian Sojourn ,  Hidden Treasures of Gujarat ,  Jewels of the Deccan , and  Maharashtra Wild Trail

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Duration –  All the Deccan Odyssey journeys will take 7 Nights/ 8 Days to complete.

Awards & Recognitions –  In 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018, Deccan Odyssey won the World Travel Awards under the category ‘Asia’s Leading Luxury Train’. It also won the ‘TTJ Jury Choice Award’ under the category of Excellence and Innovation in 2016. And in 2017, it was awarded the ‘TTJ Jury Choice Award’ under the category of Excellence and Innovation.

A famous luxury train journey in India, The Golden Chariot offers you the opportunity to live through Karnataka’s 1,600 years of history. So, get on this rail journey and unveil the hidden treasures, empires, and lost kingdoms on a ride on this rail journey. A blend of rich culture, palatial architecture, and 19intricately designed coaches, this luxury train will pamper you with world-class services.

History –  The idea of the luxury rail came into development by an MOU signed by Karnataka State Tourism and Development Corporation and the Ministry of Indian Railways in the year 2002. The name Golden Chariot was given after the iconic stone chariots of Hampi, the ruined temple complexes from the Vijayanagara Empire.

Journeys –  Pride of Karnataka ,  Jewels of South , and  Glimpses of Karnataka

Destinations Covered –  The Golden Chariot train route takes you to the famous destinations of Southern India and some of the places covered on this journey are Bengaluru, Mysore, Hampi, and Mahabalipuram.

Duration –  While the Golden Chariot train journey ‘Glimpses of Karnataka’ is completed in 3 Nights/ 4 Days, the ‘Jewels of South’ and ‘Pride of Karnataka’ is terminated in 6 Nights/7 Days.

Awards & Recognitions –  In 2017, this luxury train was awarded 7th time with the World Trade Awards (WTA) under the title of ‘Asia’s Leading Luxury Train’. It was also recognized by the TTJ Jury Choice Award for Excellence and North India Travel Award for Best Luxury Train in India 2015.

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Maharajas’ Express takes you back to the bygone era whilst maintaining all modern comforts. Designed to recreate the elegance of the carriages used by former Maharajas, the interiors of Maharajas’ Express provide a nostalgic aura. Set off on a luxurious journey in one of the cheapest luxury trains in India and explore the best of India.

History –  Maharajas’ Express was officially launched in March 2010. The Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Limited (IRCTC) and Cox and Kings India Ltd., made a mutual investment to establish a company named Royale Indian Rail Tours Ltd. (RIRTL) to manage the Maharaja Express train.

Journeys –   Treasures of India ,  The Indian Splendor ,  The Indian Panorama , and  The Heritage of India

Destinations Covered –  This luxury rail travel will take you to India’s historical destinations such as Mumbai, Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Agra, Khajuraho, Varanasi, Orchha, Gwalior, Bikaner, and more.

Duration –  While Treasures of India Maharajas’ Express takes only 3 nights/4 days to complete, Heritage of India Maharajas Express, Indian Panorama Maharajas Express, and Indian Splendour Maharajas Express ends in 6 nights/7 days.

Awards & Recognitions –  In 2010, Maharajas’ Express won the ‘Best Luxury Train’ at CNBC Awaaz Travel Award. It was the 1st runner up in the Specialist Train Operators Category awarded at Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Travel Award 2011. In 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017, this Indian luxury rail was awarded the World Travel Award under the ‘World’s Leading Luxury Train’. Lastly, Maharajas’ Express acquired the Seven Stars Luxury Hospitality and Lifestyle Award in 2015 and 2016.

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IRCTC Ramayana Yatra train: It will take you to 14 cities, 39 revered sites, including Ayodhya

Times of India TIMESOFINDIA.COM / TRAVEL NEWS , INDIA / Created : Apr 9, 2024, 13:23 IST

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Embark on the 'Shri Ramayana Yatra' by Indian Railways for a spiritual journey across India. This 17-night tour covers 14 cities and 39 worship sites, offering diverse pricing options to suit all travelers.

Embark on the 'Shri Ramayana Yatra' by Indian Railways for a spiritual journey across India. This 17-night tour covers 14 cities and 39 worship sites, offering diverse pricing options to suit all travelers. Read less

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The perfect one-week itinerary for Kerala, and places to cover

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Embark on the 'Shri Ramayana Yatra' by Indian Railways for a spiritual journey across India. This 17-night tour covers 14 cities and 39 worship sites, offering diverse pricing options to suit all trav...

36 Hours in Mumbai

By Saumya Roy Updated March 26, 2024

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By Saumya Roy Photographs by Atul Loke

Saumya Roy, a Mumbai-based author, has written a book about the city’s wealth, poverty and the waste pickers who make their living in its landfill.

Mumbai appears as much a dream as a city. Sprinkled with the stardust of Bollywood, the Hindi-language film industry that bases itself here, and studded with billionaires , India’s hyperkinetic metropolis, known as Bombay until 1995, feels like a place where anything is possible. But over the years, the city’s reality has been one of crumbling infrastructure, unmoving traffic and unending slums. Amid tight pandemic lockdowns, Mumbai turned into one of the world’s great construction sites , trying to remake itself with new towers, subway lines and bridges . Take in the dizzying juxtapositions — while discovering experimental performances in former textile mills and serene, ancient caves a short drive from the urban chaos — in a city guaranteed to look different again the next time you visit.

Recommendations

• Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya , a sprawling and immaculately kept museum, houses a trove of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist sculptures.
• The Bombay Poetry Crawl offers a walking tour through one of Mumbai’s most rapidly gentrifying areas and traces the city’s working-class roots through poetry.
• The Kanheri Caves are an ancient Buddhist complex of more than 100 caves, some dating back as far as 2,000 years, in Sanjay Gandhi National Park . Some of the caves have pillared prayer halls and serene, carved Buddhist deities.
• G5A , an arts center housed in part of a former textile mill, hosts music, film screenings, poetry readings and performances.
• The Afghan Church , formally known as the Church of St. John the Evangelist, is a newly restored 19th-century house of worship that serves as a poignant memorial for fallen Indian and British soldiers.
• Mani Bhavan , the former home of Mohandas K. Gandhi, is now a museum that preserves details of his spartan life, underscoring his emphasis on self-reliance.
• Moghal Masjid , a Shiite mosque built in 1860, is known for its intricate blue tile work.
• Hasnabad Dargah , known as Mumbai’s Taj Mahal for its resemblance to that celebrated monument, is a milky-white mausoleum that evokes calm in the middle of the city.
• Magen David Synagogue is a large historic temple, painted sky blue, in the Byculla neighborhood.
• Stroll by murals of Bollywood stars in Bandra , a coastal neighborhood of old Portuguese bungalows and celebrity homes.
• Masque is a high-end restaurant that reinvents traditional Indian dishes in modern, surprising ways over a nine-course tasting menu.
• Kala Ghoda Cafe serves healthy breakfasts, including spicy egg dishes.
• Swati Snacks , a Mumbai institution, offers street-food classics and traditional favorites in a bright, clean setting.
• Aaswad Upahar and Mithai Griha is a popular, no-frills restaurant in the Dadar neighborhood that offers a mango-themed thali (a platter filled with various small dishes) in April and May, when the fruit is in season.
• Bastian at the Top , a sceney rooftop restaurant with lavish décor that includes an indoor swimming pool, is worth a stop to take in the views of the bay over a drink.
• Moonray , a newly opened women’s wear store, brings together immaculate European cuts and handmade embroidery from Mumbai.
• Payal Khandwala sells silk tops, sharply cut suits and trench coats in bold-colored Indian fabric.
• Ogaan showcases a range of local designers whose garments include ornate Indian wedding wear and silk shirts.
• Kitab Khana has a large and well-curated selection of books on Indian literature, politics and Gandhian thought, set in a building that is more than a century old.
• Induri Saree Centre sells glittering, traditional saris in a candy-box-size store.
• The Taj Mahal Palace , an ornate hotel open since 1903, looks over the Arabian Sea and the historic Gateway of India arch. A memorial in the lobby commemorates the terror attack at the hotel in 2008. Rooms start at 23,550 rupees, or about $282.
• Sea Green Hotel , on the curved, lit-up shoreline called the Queen’s Necklace, has basic rooms with gorgeous bay views. Rooms start at around 9,000 rupees.
• The Grand Hotel is a century-old establishment in the city’s historic Ballard Estate district, an area that is also home to one of Mumbai’s best-known Parsi restaurants, Britannia & Co. You can also walk to many of the city’s well-known attractions. Rooms start at around 6,850 rupees.
• Traveling in Mumbai’s packed trains is fast, efficient and an experience like no other. Millions travel on the local trains every year, and vendors and singers walk through compartments (25 rupees for a first-class single ticket). Black-and-yellow cabs , which use meters with fixed rates, and ride-hailing apps like Uber are readily available. Mumbai’s red buses also offer a breezy, scenic and cheap way to get around the city (from 5 rupees per trip).

See spindly chimneys rising amid luxury hotels and condos in the jagged skyline of Lower Parel, a rapidly gentrifying precinct in central Mumbai. The chimneys are relics of the area’s former textile mills, which began slowly being redeveloped into malls after a worker strike in the 1980s. Trace Mumbai’s working-class roots here with the writer Saranya Subramanian, who leads the Bombay Poetry Crawl (600 rupees, or about $7), a series of walking tours conducted through the lens of poetry and local history. During the tour, Ms. Subramanian reads poetry by workers and encourages participants to read, too. She leads the tour monthly and also hosts a range of other poetry walks in the city, including one on a local train. Check her Instagram page, @thebombaypoetrycrawl , for scheduling.

Take a car to the nearby G5A , a cultural center housed in a repurposed textile mill compound. Trees grow out of the stone walls of a neighboring former mill , and skyscrapers rise, seemingly by the minute, on the other side. Catch a show at G5A, which hosts edgy art performances, movie screenings and discussions in its small theater, or on its terrace, with the moon glowing through the Mumbai haze. Recent shows include a poetry reading by the Pulitzer Prize-winning author Forrest Gander, along with the celebrated Indian poet Arvind Krishna Mehrotra; Norwegian and Bangalorean jazz bands; and a Kashmiri film. Tickets from 250 to 700 rupees.

Walk next door, still within the mill compound, to the high-ceilinged and warmly lit Masque , a restaurant that reinvents traditional Indian dishes across a nine-course tasting menu (5,200 rupees per person). It takes puran poli and amti, for instance, a sweet, lentil-filled flatbread and side of spicy coconut dal that is often eaten during Mumbai festivals, and remixes it as a bite-size chickpea tart with a hint of jaggery (Indian raw sugar), filled with green peas or crab and topped with coconut foam. Pav, a ubiquitous Mumbai bread bun with a crackly top and slightly sweet, dense interior, acquires a croissant-like, buttery texture here — dip it into a silky morel or lamb curry. Cap off the meal with a popsicle made with unlikely layers of Indian pickle, mulberry and white chocolate. Vegetarian menus available.

Trace Mumbai’s working-class roots in Lower Parel with the Bombay Poetry Crawl, a series of walking tours conducted through the lens of poetry and local history.

Walk through the soft-colored shadows cast by stained-glass windows in the Church of St. John the Evangelist, more commonly known as the Afghan Church , which reopened in March after a two-year renovation. The building, in the leafy Navy Nagar, a naval area at the southern tip of Mumbai, was completed in 1858 and commemorates the more than 4,500 Indian and British soldiers who died during the first Anglo-Afghan war, including in its disastrous retreat from Kabul. The church is also known for multifaith prayers, Indian classical music concerts and a midnight Mass at Christmas. Entry is free.

Kala Ghoda Cafe

Dig into a breakfast of akuri, a spicy scrambled egg dish (345 rupees) that is traditional in India’s Parsi community, at Kala Ghoda Cafe , in the Kala Ghoda neighborhood. Then walk to the sprawling Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya , a museum with manicured lawns and a Gothic-style building topped with a bulbous dome. As part of “ Ancient Sculptures ,” showing through October, chiseled Greek gods and Egyptian deities from the British Museum and the J. Paul Getty Museum share space with Assyrian gods from CSMVS’s permanent collection. The museum’s permanent galleries are a trove of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain sculptures and also feature artifacts from the ancient Indus Valley civilization. Tickets, 150 rupees for Indian nationals; 700 rupees for foreigners.

Stroll the Kala Ghoda neighborhood, starting with Artisans ’, a gallery and shop in a graffiti-covered building that showcases traditional Indian crafts. In the area’s ever-expanding fashion district, browse crisp white shirts with handmade lace collars (from around 9,500 rupees) at Moonray , a women’s fashion label and shop (its co-founder also runs the Chanakya School of Craft , which teaches women embroidery and collaborates with Dior). Also check out Payal Khandwala , which has silk tops (14,000 rupees), sharply cut suits and trench coats in bold-colored Indian fabric, and Ogaan , with heavily embellished wedding dresses, pleated dresses and more. Then walk to Kitab Khana , an independent bookstore in a more-than-century-old building with Corinthian columns in the nearby Fort district. Browse the well-curated selection of Indian literature and the books on history and Gandhian thought that line the high shelves.

Swati Snacks

A dizzying range of delicacies can be found on Mumbai’s khao gallis, a Hindi term for “food streets.” The safest way to try them all (and avoid tummy trouble) might be at Swati Snacks , a six-decade-old restaurant in the Tardeo area. Have the vada pav (175 rupees), like garlicky potato sliders, and the signature panki (230 rupees), a wispy rice pancake flavored with mint or dill that arrives steaming in a banana-leaf parcel. Then visit the nearby Mani Bhavan , a three-story building where Mohandas K. Gandhi, known as the father of the nation, often stayed; it is now a museum. Spinning wheels and floor seating in his preserved, spartan bedroom provide a window to his belief that the route to Indian independence could come only through discipline and self-reliance. Entry, 20 rupees.

Moghal Masjid

Take a car to Byculla, the chaotic old quarter of Mumbai. Get a coffee (Americano, 228 rupees) at the Craftery by Subko , a new Mumbai cafe and roastery chain bringing hipsters to this part of the city. Then drive through the busy, narrow streets to see some of Mumbai’s diverse and beautiful religious monuments. Visit the nearby Moghal Masjid , a jewel-like, Iranian-style Shiite mosque built in 1860, with intricate blue tiling adorning a curved entrance. Women cannot pray inside the mosque but can enter the compound, which has a pool for ablution. Take in the facade of Hasnabad Dargah , a pristine, ivory-colored mausoleum, known as Mumbai’s Taj Mahal for its resemblance to the original (entry only for Shia Ismaili Muslims). Not far from there is the Magen David Synagogue (entry, 300 rupees), recognizable by its sky blue clock tower, built in the 1860s to serve Mumbai’s once wealthy and influential, but now vanishing , Jewish community.

Bastian at the Top

In the Dadar neighborhood, shop for handwoven saris (from 2,000 rupees) and scarves at Induri Saree Centre , a candy-box-size store. Then line up at Aaswad Upahar and Mithai Griha , a no-frills Dadar institution best visited in April and May with the arrival of fragrant and luscious Alphonso mangoes. Aaswad does a seasonal mango-themed thali (a platter of various small dishes; 470 rupees) that includes a saffron, mango and cardamom drink; a mango dal; and chilled mango pulp called aamras that is the taste of a Mumbai summer in a bowl. Then cross the street to the gleaming, new Kohinoor Square mall and take the elevator 48 floors to Bastian at the Top . With a tree-lined plunge pool and glowing figurines carved into giant pillars, it can feel more like a theme park than a restaurant (it often attracts Bollywood celebrities). It’s worth a cocktail (1,295 rupees) just to take in the sweeping views of the bay.

Catch a show at G5A, a cultural center housed in a repurposed textile mill compound.

A mural by Ranjit Dahiya

The laid-back suburb of Bandra has Portuguese bungalows, Bollywood studios and the full wattage of star homes along with fans hoping for a glimpse. The best bet for encountering Bollywood stars is on the Technicolor, larger-than-life murals in the area’s charming lanes. See a pistol-wielding Dharmendra, from the iconic 1975 movie “Sholay,” opposite the Subko cafe on Chapel Road. Next to it is a triptych of Bollywood’s dancing divas — a feathered Helen and a bejeweled Waheeda Rehman and Asha Parekh. (Ranjit Dahiya, the artist behind many of these murals, also teaches workshops .) Stroll on to Waroda Road (past a moody depiction of the celebrated actor ​​Irrfan Khan) to reach the brightly colored Veronica’s , an all-day cafe that has become something of a living room for Bandra’s young set, who come for creative bites like chicken-and-cheese-filled breakfast momos (395 rupees), potato waffles (350 rupees) and babka stuffed with chorizo (275 rupees).

Leave the chaos of the city behind, driving north to reach the entrance of Sanjay Gandhi National Park , a 40-square-mile preserve where deer, monkeys and the occasional leopard roam. From inside the park, minivans drive visitors about 10 minutes through the forest (1,000 rupees round-trip) to the bottom of a hill. From there, walk up to the Kanheri Caves, a Buddhist complex of more than 100 caves, the oldest dating back 2,000 years, carved into basalt. Some form large, pillared prayer halls, while others feature carved serene Buddhist deities in prayer. Also see the waterways, loosely cut into the hills, that provided water to the monks who lived and meditated there many centuries ago. Park entry, 95 rupees; caves entry, 25 rupees.

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Indian Railway might introduce Vande Bharat trains with 20 coaches

Mumbai: In a significant development, the Indian Railway is planning to introduce longer Vande Bharat trains with up to 20 coaches. Currently, eight or sixteen coach train sets are operating services in the country. The Railway, now, plans to introduce 20 - coach sets in the busiest routes. However, complaints are rife that other services are getting affected due to the schedule of the Vande Bharat trains. But, when twenty coaches are introduced, in the place of the 8 - coach sets, it would be tantamount to running an additional one and a half trains. Moreover, Vande Bharat trains with a greater number of coaches might even reduce overcrowding. The Railway also hoped that the new train sets would bring additional income.

Vande Bharat sleeper trains As for the much-awaited Vande Bharat sleeper trains, even though the railway will not significantly change the existing arrangement of coaches in long-distance trains, the sleeper train will be fully air-conditioned. Each of the new trains would have one AC 1, four Second AC and 11 Third AC coaches, with a total capacity of 832 passengers. Having an aerodynamic exterior design, the trains will also flaunt a most modern modular pantry. The doors will be automatic, similar to those in Metro trains. Special berths and washrooms will be available to physically disabled passengers.

Loco pilots also would have a washroom for themselves. Yet another unique facility would be a hot water supply in the washrooms of AC 1 coaches. A public announcement system to alert travellers on the upcoming station, noise insulation in the interiors and an expansive luggage room are among the other attractions which indicate that the standards of the Vande Bharat sleeper train would match those of airlines.

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Designers are also making an effort to create a better Vande Bharat, compared to the existing trains. For this purpose, lightweight and rust-proof GFRP panels would be used in the interiors. GFRP – glass fibre reinforced polymer – is a combination material of fibreglass and polyester and has been utilized in the boat-building industry for several years owing to its corrosion-resistant feature.

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Nine of the best luxury train journeys in Asia

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During the pandemic, The Eastern & Oriental Express underwent a stunning restoration, enhancing its deep bottle green exterior with cherrywood panelling and oriental silk decor.

Exclusive and available to only a few, luxury train travel remains a genuinely unique and leisurely way to see the world, especially in Asia, writes Nanette Holliday.

Luxury train travellers are drawn to the old-world charm and glamour, sleeping in stylish and comfortable beds, enjoying lavish fine dining created by award-winning chefs , and relaxing in a charming bar with a top-notch drink while encapsulated in swish surrounds inside and outside as the train rambles across spectacular landscapes. You also get to partake in various authentic local and immersive experiences along the way.

While most people consider Europe for leisurely train travel, Asia also has a stunning network of luxury trains waiting to whisk their passengers away on the journey of a lifetime.

EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS, SINGAPORE/MALAYSIA

Globally, the most luxurious and romantic train journey top-of-mind for travellers is the Orient Express, of Agatha Christie and Hercule Poirot fame. However, Asia has an equally historic, majestic and impressively lavish train – the Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O). It’s where the East meets the West with foods and cocktails inspired by the different regions the train journeys through. Even a champagne breakfast in bed is on the menu.

During Covid, E&O’s eight sleeping cars, two restaurant cars, a piano bar and the iconic open-air observation car were stunningly restored. Their deep bottle green exterior is complemented by cherrywood panelling and oriental silk decor inside, including the latest technology.

The E&O recommenced train travel this February with two new three-day journeys leaving Singapore and travelling through Malaysia’s vibrant cities and tropical landscapes before returning to Singapore. Travellers can choose between the Essence of Malaysia, a snapshot of Malay culture in Kuala Lumpur , Langkawi and Penang, next available in November. Wild Malaysia operates between March and October 2024 and heads into the captivating Taman Negara National Park, home to tigers and leopards, before tracking west to Langkawi and Penang.

belmond.com/trains/asia/eastern-and-oriental-express

TRAIN SUITE SHIKI-SHIMA, JAPAN

The world’s most exclusive, expensive and glamorously luxurious train is Japan’s deluxe hybrid electric/diesel Train Suite Shiki-shima. Meaning “Island of four seasons”, it epitomises the true Japanese spirit of harmony, order and the finer things in life. From your suite, watch the beautiful and ever-changing eastern Japanese countryside glide by. Soak away any previous worries as you relax and indulge in your unique designer cypress bath, then curl up on the sofa and warm your toes by the fireplace in your lounge. Whatever season you decide to undertake this train journey, it will be magnificent.

Departing from Tokyo’s Ueno Station , the 10-car train caters for a maximum of 34 passengers in 17 suites with regional cultural stops in Tohoku and Hokkaido. Costing from US$3000 to $10,000, your two to four-day journey on this golden, futuristic train also includes a limousine and luggage service from your home, a private lounge at the train station and your customised needs on the train as discussed with staff after booking.

jreast.co.jp/shiki-shima

TWILIGHT EXPRESS MIZAKAZE, JAPAN

The spectacular Twilight Express Mizukaze has everything you’d expect of a luxury 5-star hotel , except it’s on wheels. It travels through western Japan from Osaka, Kyoto to Okayama, Shinji and Higashihama, with a sizzling sunset stop at Lake Shinji. The 10-car train has 16 opulent suites. Relax among traditionally handcrafted decor, soak up the luscious landscapes and scintillating coastal views while devouring mouth-watering regional culinary delights. Bookings are at least one year in advance.

twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp

SEVEN STARS KYUSHU, JAPAN

Showcasing the soul of Kyushu Island is the ever-so-sophisticated luxury Seven Stars Kyushu train with eight suites and two deluxe suites for 20 passengers. During the four-day journey, witness the splendorous mountains , bountiful oceans and meet the locals from Kumamoto, Kagoshima, Miyazaki to Oita and Fukuoka prefectures. Artisan regional meals are delivered by different chefs every day. You’ll rub shoulders with the locals during an overnight stay in a traditional ryokan in either Yufuin Tamanoyu, Kamenoi Besso or Sansou Murata.

cruisetrain-sevenstars.jp

SHANGRI-LA EXPRESS, CHINA

The Shangri-La Express was initially built for Chairman Mao. While not as luxurious as some other Asian trains, it is China’s best train and an excellent way to experience the country’s vastness.

Journeying over 13 days, 80 to 100 passengers see different Himalayan peaks while traversing the “Roof of the World”, the Gobi desert, palaces, and ancient cities from Lhasa to Kashgar. Alternatively, take the 21-day journey along the exotic and historic Marco Polo Silk Road route. Traversing five countries from Beijing through Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan to Moscow, it’s the most extensive train journey across Asia and Europe. Both trips include breathtaking vistas from your bed, a complimentary bottle of vodka in your room, all meals with wines and off-train tours and gratuities.

goldeneagleluxurytrains.com/trains/shangri-la-express/

THE VIETAGE BY ANATARA, VIETNAM

Romance the rails aboard The Vietage by Anantara. Vietage’s panoramic windows are perfect for soaking up the lush, serene landscapes, villages and stunning coastline of central Vietnam . Operating between Hoi An and Quy Nhon, the 318km, six-hour journey is Vietnam’s only truly luxurious train ride. It’s a private carriage on a regular train operating along the Reunification Express line stretching 1700km north to south from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. But there are only 12 guests in this carriage. Think six luxurious suites, a classical movie-style champagne cocktail bar, a massage room and chef-prepared Vietnamese French -infused three-course epicurean meals.

thevietagetrain.com

GOLDEN CHARIOT, INDIA

Journey around Karnataka state and its golden beaches, or Kerala and Tamil Nadu over two weeks savouring the best that southern India has to offer aboard the 44-carriage Golden Chariot. Languish in the intricately designed guest rooms, each named after Indian ruling dynasties, while the TV in your room competes with the picturesque countryside and beaches of Goa. Relax in either of the two fine dining restaurants, the ultra-fine Midira cigar bar lounge or the Ayurveda spa . Need to work out? There’s even a mini gym.

goldenchariot.org

MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS, INDIA

Be treated like royalty aboard the fourth most luxurious train globally, the half-mile-long Maharajas’ Express in India. Only 88 passengers can partake in one of the seven Indian heritage destination journeys on offer while tingling their taste buds with superb first-class dining or relaxing in the cocktail bar and lounge. Along the way, see the tigers of Ranthambore reserve, Jaipur, the Taj Mahal and other key attractions.

Each carriage is named after the 14 royal Rajput States of old-world India. A regular suite has a living room, dining room and two bedrooms. But booking the Presidential Suite is a must if you want to see how the maharajas lived. It has two spacious bedrooms, two bathrooms, a palatial bath, spacious lounge and dining areas, and comes with a butler waiting on you hand and foot.

the-maharajas.com

DECCAN ODYSSEY, INDIA

For sheer decadence, jump aboard the iconic 21-carriage royal blue and gold Deccan Odyssey as it stops at the Asiatic lion reserve and crosses some of India’s exclusive heritage sites. The week-long journey travels to Mumbai from Delhi through Agra, Jaipur, Pattadakal, Hyderabad, Ellora and Ajanta Caves. With two dining cars, a gym, a spa and a conference carriage with business services, you can even keep working (if you must) along the way. The prestigious Taj Hotels and Palaces group prepares the meals in this five-star hotel on wheels.

deccan-odyssey-india.com

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How to Travel Through Europe by Train Like a Pro

Last Updated on June 8, 2023

Traveling through Europe by train is a wonderful experience that offers a unique and authentic way to explore the continent. It is a cost-effective and sustainable way to travel that gives you a chance to see the breathtaking scenery of Europe. 

However, train travel can also be overwhelming for first-timers. That’s why we’ve put together this guide on traveling through Europe by train like a pro.

Make an Itinerary

The first step to traveling through Europe by train like a pro is to plan ahead. Research your destinations and create a rough itinerary of the places you want to visit, as well as the duration of your stay. You can use websites such as Rail Europe or Eurail to plan your train journeys and book tickets in advance. This can save you money, time, and heartache on your adventure!

Buy a Rail Pass

If you plan to take multiple train journeys during your trip, buying a rail pass is worth considering. A rail pass allows you to travel on most trains in Europe without purchasing individual tickets for each journey. Different types of rail passes are available, depending on the length of your trip and the countries you want to visit.

Utilize Nearby Luggage Storage

When traveling through Europe by train, you may find yourself in a situation where you need to store your luggage temporarily. This can happen if you arrive at your destination before your hotel check-in time or want to explore a city without carrying heavy bags.

Fortunately, many train stations in Europe offer luggage storage facilities. For example, if you’re spending the day in St. Pancras, simply look for luggage storage in St. Pancras . Now, you can explore the city with peace of mind — and no heavy bags weighing you down.

Choose Your Train

When traveling through Europe by train , you can take high-speed trains, regional trains, or overnight trains. High-speed trains, such as the Eurostar or TGV, are faster and more expensive than regional trains. However, they are a smart option for longer journeys or days you want to travel between two distant cities in a short amount of time.

Regional trains, on the other hand, are slower but cheaper. They are an option if you want to explore smaller towns and villages along your route. Overnight trains, such as the Nightjet, allow you to save time and money by combining transportation and accommodation.

One of the advantages of traveling through Europe by train is the ability to easily move from one place to another. However, this can be difficult if you are carrying a heavy suitcase. Therefore, it is important to pack light and only bring the essentials. A backpack or a small suitcase is ideal for train travel.

Arrive Early

You should arrive at the train station at least 30 minutes before your train departure time. This allows you to find your platform, check the train timetable, and board the train stress-free. After all, when a train says it leaves at 10:00, you best believe it’ll be on the move promptly at 10:00.

Additionally, arriving early can give you time to grab a coffee or a snack from one of the many cafes at the train station.

Validate Your Ticket

If you have purchased individual train tickets, don’t forget to validate them before boarding the train. You can do this at the yellow validation machines located at the train station. Failure to validate your ticket can result in a fine if you are caught by a ticket inspector on the train.

Keep Your Ticket Handy

Once you have boarded the train, it is important to keep your ticket handy. Ticket inspectors may ask to see your ticket any time during the journey, so it is best to have it easily accessible. Additionally, some trains have a designated area for luggage storage, so be sure to keep your bags in the appropriate area.

Bring Your Own Food

While some trains have dining cars or food carts, it is always a good idea to bring your own food and snacks for the journey. This can save you money and ensure that you have something to eat if the train has no food options or limited options.

Enjoy the Scenery

Last but not least, one of the most important things to remember when traveling through Europe by train is to take the time to enjoy the scenery. Europe is home to some of the world’s most beautiful landscapes and architecture, and traveling by train allows you to see it all from a unique perspective.

Happy Travels!

Traveling through Europe by train is a fantastic experience that offers a unique and authentic way to explore the continent. With these tips, you can travel like a pro and make the most of your journey. Remember to plan ahead, pack light, and most importantly, enjoy the beautiful scenery along the way.

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