tour mont blanc race

• Start: Les Saisies
• Finish: Les Saisies
• 330 km - 8300 m/d+
• Start 1 : Les Saisies Start 2 : Gd-St-Bernard
• Finish 1 : Gd-St-Bernard Finish 2 : Les Saisies
• Leg 1 : 155 km - 4300 m/d+ Leg 2 : 175 - 4000 m/d+

LE TOUR DU MONT BLANC

You are at the starting line, in the heart of the beautiful ski resort of Les Saisies, it is 4:55 in the morning and you turn on your front light. You listen to the latest safety instructions from the speaker. 4:58 , the departure music starts, a lot of thoughts jump inside your head: “What am I doing here? “Why do I hurt myself like that? “Am I really ready for this huge challenge?” “Why do I do that?”

But you know the answer: To become a Hero! “Hero: person who shows great courage.”

Reference among the ultra events, the Tour du Mont-Blanc Cyclo will require you a flawless preparation, extraordinary courage and push you to exceed your limits to become a hero. Because yes, becoming a hero is the goal of every participant of the Tour du Mont-Blanc. “ The world’s toughest one day bike race ”. This is how the cycling press describes the Tour du Mont-Blanc Cyclo. Indeed, riding 330km and face the 8300m of elevation gain that we offer you, in one day, is not an easy task!

On the program again for the twelfth edition, the crossing of 3 countries, France , Switzerland and Italy . You will once again be confronted with a demanding and ruthless route that will await you with constant strength. A unique experience to be sure.

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Running the Mont Blanc ultra, the world’s most famous trail race

I ’ve been running uphill for over an hour, scaling this narrow mountain trail, when we pass through some trees. This must be the top, I’m thinking, hopefully, as we crest the pass. But alas, rising up on the other side are more hulking mountains and snaking up through the middle of them, like a line of ants, are the tiny dots of the runners ahead of us.

“ Putain ,” swears the French runner behind me. I know exactly how he feels. The 170km Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc is the most famous trail race in the world. In the fast-growing sport of Mountain Ultra Trail (MUT) running, it’s the big one, the sport’s Super Bowl. For a week at the end of August each year, the town of Chamonix in the French Alps is completely taken over by ultra runners and their supporters. Any unsuspecting visitors arriving in the area would be left baffled by this strange world of short shorts and little backpacks and super-fit people that they’d wandered into.

During UTMB week – which acts as the climax of the brand new UTMB World Series – about 10,000 runners compete across seven different races of varying lengths. I’m here to run the 100km CCC race, which starts in Courmayeur in Italy and follows a route around Mont Blanc, scaling more than 6,000m of ascent along the way, passing through Switzerland, before finishing in Chamonix.

Why would anyone want to run so far? It’s a good question. On one level, taking part in these races is an adventure into the wild. By traversing such great distances on foot, you get to explore some of the most remote corners of these incredible mountains. Sure, you spend a lot of time looking down at your feet, but every time you look up, the landscape takes your breath away.

But it is also a race. Despite my intention to primarily run to enjoy the experience, once we get going I find myself pushing hard and I finish in under 20 hours, an arbitrary goal I set myself before the start. You can choose to go slower, of course, but it doesn’t really make things any easier, since it just means you’re out there running for longer. So I decide to embrace the inherent competitiveness of the event and get my skates on. I can then spend the rest of the weekend relaxing and soaking up the unique atmosphere of Chamonix during UTMB week.

It’s handy that my hotel, La Folie Douce, is so close to the finish, so that after finally making it to Chamonix in the middle of the night, I can hobble back to a hot shower and a blissfully comfy bed. The next morning I spend a heavenly few hours stretched out by the hotel’s outdoor pool with stunning views across the mountains that look a little unreal in the morning sunlight, like a huge Athena poster backdrop.

Chamonix also has an abundance of great places to eat – an essential part of the post-race recovery process – from the fine seasonal French cuisine at the Mont Blanc Hotel, the oldest, most elegant hotel in town, to the hearty Soul Bowls and vegan burgers at the Bighorn Bistro (a favourite haunt of the big-eating elite ultra runners).

Once I feel recovered, I head back into town to sit outside a café and cheer the last UTMB runners home, each one creating a wave of noise from the crowds as they pass. For more than 100 miles and for up to 48 hours, they’ve been running up and down mountains, without sleep, and the effort is etched on their faces. Having done a race myself, I feel a connection to each runner that passes, and each time it brings a tear to my eye to see them so close to finishing their epic journey.

For more details on UTMB Mont Blanc, go to utmbmontblanc.com . La Folie Douce has rooms from £90 per night ( lafoliedoucehotels.com )

Running highs: Other mountain trail events to test yourself on

To qualify for the UTMB races in Chamonix, you must compete in at least one of the 25 UTMB World Series events, where you can collect ‘running stones’ for the UTMB race lottery. Entries for the lottery open in December. Here are five of the best UTMB World Series events to consider.

Lavaredo Ultra Trail, Italy The serene rocky monoliths of the Dolomites play host each June to this long-established race on the European mountain running calendar. Setting off late at night from the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo – host city of the 1956 Winter Olympics – the race is brilliantly supported, with large crowds lining the streets to cheer you on your way. Best of all, being in Italy, you get to feast on endless pizza after finishing the race ( lavaredo.utmb.world ).

Speedgoat Mountain Races, USA Held in July on the slopes of one of the biggest ski resorts in the States, Snowbird in Utah, the Speedgoat 50k takes runners up gruelling climbs, across tricky, rocky terrain and through the breathtaking landscape of Utah’s Wasatch mountains. With the entire course situated above 2,300m, this is one of the toughest mountain races in the US ( speedgoat.utmb.world ).

Ultra Trail Snowdonia (UTS), Wales The only UK race in the UTMB World Series, the UTS follows challenging trails and traverses hairy ridges, summiting the most notable peaks in the north of the Snowdonia national park. Although the series of races – over 50km, 100km and 165km – take place in July, good weather is, of course, far from guaranteed ( snowdonia.utmb.world ).

Puerto Vallarta, México After crossing the Sierra Madre mountains, this race takes runners down through forests and agave plantations, into the jungle and then finally along the beach in the beautiful bay of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast. Taking place for the first time in October 2022, this new event’s longest race is 100 miles, while there are also shorter options of 100km, 50km and 20km ( puerto-vallarta.utmb.world ).

Doi Inthanon, Thailand This race takes place in December around the highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Inthanon, in the foothills of the Himalayas. The Doi Inthanon national park is famous for its waterfalls, remote villages and its sunsets – if you do the 170km race, you’ll run through at least one sunset and maybe even two, depending on how fast you are ( inthanon.utmb.world ).

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10 Takeaways From the 2022 Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc

2022's edition of the ultra tour de mont blanc is in the books. here are the stories and changes we're tracking, and what they mean for the trail community..

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During an early morning run in Chamonix, France, on Monday, the town was surprisingly quiet. There were a few trail runners jogging casually along the Arve River path as the sun began to light up the jagged mountain spires around Mont Blanc. Many more of the 10,000 runners who had been in town for the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) festival of races were scurrying to shuttle buses and headed to the Geneva International Airport to fly back home. But the surprisingly quiet calm of this mountain village belies the excitement of what was arguably the biggest and most boisterous UTMB week yet.

RELATED: Will 2022 Be the Last Great UTMB?

Chamonix was electric

Chamonix always has an exciting vibe in the summer, if only because the breathtaking mountains that surround it serve up a siren call of adventure—especially for trail runners. That was still true during the last week of August, but with thousands of runners arriving to run one of the eight races in the UTMB trail running festival, the atmosphere was absolutely bonkers. Early in the week there were group runs hosted by seemingly every brand in the run space . The second episode of the three-part Journey to the Top video series from Wahoo featuring Jim Walmsley and Jess Brazeau debuted on Wednesday at the Chamonix movie theater. On any given day, elite runners from around the world could be seen walking or running through the crowded pedestrian village all week leading up to the marquee races, the 56km OCC, 101km CCC and 171.5km UTMB while amateur runners from around the world were prepping for their own races. Every day brought new race finishers to the village, all celebrated in style (and many with the Vangelis song “ Conquest of Paradise ” playing over loudspeakers) at the UTMB finish line adjacent to the circa-1709 Saint-Michel church. If you’re a trail runner, a visit to Chamonix should be on your bucket list—no matter if you’re racing or just visiting to watch the races and run on your own. 

There was more hype than ever before

UTMB has been a big thing in Chamonix and the trail running universe since its inception in 2003 and it has continually grown in prominence every year, but this year everything was cranked up several notches. In the first official year of the UTMB/Ironman partnership with Hoka as the primary sponsor, there was a much bigger expo (and official UTMB merchandise tent), more sponsor branding around the village and around the course, more signage welcoming runners and hyping the event and more buzz about the new UTMB World Series. Aside from Hoka, several other shoe brands were in town with athletes, marketing and footwear development teams and even high-level executives, including Brooks, On, Altra, Merrell, Adidas-Terrex, Salomon, The North Face and La Sportiva. They were there to support athletes, host pre-race events and throw parties. As one long-time running industry insider said at an aid station during the CCC race: “I’ve never seen so many running shoe company CEOs in Chamonix.” 

RELATED: Trail Runner’s Guide to UTMB

The race fields were deeper than ever.

Despite the absence of 2021 UTMB winners Courtney Dauwalter of the U.S. and François D’Haene of France—or maybe because of it—the men’s and women’s elite fields of the UTMB were as deep as they’ve ever been. In the end, Spain’s Kilian Jornet (despite having a false-positive or positive but asymptomatic Covid-19 test result days before the race) produced yet another masterwork performance , overcoming Jim Walmsley’s breakaway lead in Champex and outdueling Frenchman Mathieu Blanchard over the final climb to win the men’s race for a record-tying fourth time in a course-record 19 hours, 49 minutes—and becoming the second (after D’Haene) to win both UTMB and Colorado’s Hardrock 100 in the same summer. Evans turned in a strong effort to snag third, while Walmsley hung on for his best finish yet in fourth and Zach Miller produced the feel-good comeback story with a solid fifth-place showing. With yet another extraordinary effort, the 34-year-old Jornet, running in shoes made from his new brand NNormal , solidified his status as the G.O.A.T. 

Meanwhile, 30-year-old American Katie Schide , who grew up in Maine but has been living and running in Nice, France, for several years while working on a Ph.D in geology, turned in her own exquisite performance by following up on top-10 efforts in 2019 and 2021 with a commanding win in 23:15, the second-fastest women’s time behind Dauwalter’s 2021 course-record 22:30. Canada’s Marianne Hogan held on for second after losing the lead to Schide, while American Kaytlyn Gerbin earned the final podium spot with a strong and consistent day on the loop around Mont Blanc. While no American man has won UTMB, Schide became the fifth American woman to win UTMB (for a total of eight victories) since its inception in 2003.

New trail running shoes

There were several new trail running shoes on display at the UTMB race expo, including Hoka’s recently released Mafate Speed 4 , Inov-8’s TrailFly Ultra G 280, Altra’s Mont Blanc BOA, Craft’s Pro Endure Trail and NNormal’s Kjerag. The Mafate Speed 4 was developed from the recent Mafate 3 and the Evo Mafate and features a new upper and next-gen ProFly midsole foam and Vibram outsole. The Inov-8 TrailFly Ultra G 280 has an energetic but very stable, nitrogen-infused midsole foam and the reliable traction of a Graphene Grip outsole. The Altra Mont Blanc BOA has a two-way micro-adjustable BOA dial fit system for a semi-customizable fit. Craft’s Pro Endure Trail is the off-road version of its Pro Endure Distance road shoe with a hyper-responsive Px expanded bead foam, while NNormal is a maximally cushioned shoe with a Vibram Litebase outsole and an innovative Kevlar-mesh upper. Several athletes appeared to wear prototype shoes during UTMB races, including Jim Walmsley, who was wearing what looked like a modified Hoka Rocket X road racing shoe with a trail tread, and Katie Schide, who was wearing what looked to be a new maximally cushioned shoe from The North Face with a trail outsole.

RELATED:Four Major UTMB Takeaways For Pacing and Predictions, Based on Historical Data

Hoka’s UTMB light tunnel activation was a wild, new twist

For years during UTMB, runners would run past bonfires at Notre Dame de la Gorge at about the 30km point of the race, not long after runners left the village of Les Contamines to head into the backcountry. It was meant as a symbolic way to re-energize runners through the first night of racing on the way into the Italian portion of the race. After UTMB returned in 2021 following the 2020 Covid-19 cancellation, the traditional bonfire did not. This year, Hoka brought in a stunning and colorful light tunnel that runners ran through.. While some social media posts have complained about it being over-the-top or inappropriate for the ethos of trail, most runners and spectators raved about it. American runner Andrew Glaze of Redlands, California, called it “a surreal but amazing experience to run through.”

There was more exposure than ever before

The UTMB race organization said it expects the media impact of the 2022 edition UTMB will be at least twice as great as during the 2021 edition which had already smashed all the records. It reported that there were a record 460 accredited journalists onsite, 964 articles published during the week and 18,832,266 views on various social networks. Plus, there were nearly 14 million views and 100 million minutes of videos viewed (UTMB Live and highlights) on the new live.utmb.world platform and the official social networks of the UTMB Mont-Blanc. (That’s the equivalent of 188 years of UTMB videos watched continuously.) There are now 650,000 fans on the official UTMB Mont-Blanc social networks, including 50.000 new fans who joined the community in the past week. More than 2 million users have viewed 21 milion pages on the official UTMB and the UTMB World Series websites. Perhaps most notable is the fact that more than 50,000 people have created an account on the new MyUTMB site, which is the first step to registering for a UTMB World Series event. On top of all of that, there were more content teams following more elite and amateur racers than ever before, so new content from the week will continue to emerge as brands like Hoka, Adidas-Terrex, Altra, Wahoo, The North Face and others release new video storytelling pieces.

Sadly, a competitor passed away from a fall during the PTL

A year after Czech runner Ondrej Tabarka died in the 145km TDS race, a Brazilian athlete was killed in a tragic accident during the rugged 180-mile La Petite Trotte à Léon (PTL) event. The PTL, which started at 8 a.m. local time on August 22 in Chamonix, is the longest and arguably most challenging of the eight races during the UTMB week’s schedule of events. Teams of two or three athletes maneuver a massive loop through the steep and rugged terrain around the Mont Blanc massif in parts of France, Switzerland, and Italy. The course includes more than 86,000 feet of vertical gain and takes teams anywhere from four to six days to complete. All competitors must bring helmets, crampons and via ferrata gear. The 40-year-old victim, who has not been identified by the race organization, was crossing a section of loose, rocky scree with his teammate, who was also from Brazil, when he slipped and tumbled an estimated 30 to 50 feet down the mountain just before 1:30 a.m. The incident occurred at roughly the 23-mile point of the course on an established but remote hiking trail between Col de Tricot and the Refuge de Plan Glacier, high above the French village of Les Contamines west of Chamonix.

RELATED:Brazilian Runner Dies in PTL Race at UTMB

Is Olympic marathoner Desi Linden becoming a trail runner?

Among the Brooks athletes in town was 2018 Boston Marathon winner Desi Linden, who is still primarily a marathoner (she’s running the New York City Marathon in November) but has started to dabble in ultrarunning (she set a women’s 50km world record last year) and trail running. Fresh off a visit to the inaugural Brooks Trail Summit on August 16 in Snoqualmie Pass, Washington, Linden arrived to check out the scene in Chamonix . Linden, a two-time Olympic marathoner, was out exploring the high-alpine trials on several runs, including a 25km effort with Ruth Croft . While she admits she has a lot to learn as a trail runner, she seems to have the necessary grit and adventurous mindset to complement her considerable aerobic capabilities. Might she follow in the footsteps of 2008 Olympic marathoner Magda Boulet, who has had an amazing encore career as an ultra-distance trail runner? We certainly hope so!

UTMB co-founder Michel Poletti finished UTMB again!

Michel Poleti, co-founder of the UTMB, finished this year’s race on Sunday morning in 41 hours, 57 minutes. It is the seventh finish for the 64-year-old Frenchman , but his first since 2009. Poletti, who also has two Western States 100 finishes to his credit, also ran the Speedgoat 50km in Utah and the Ultra-Trail Snowdonia 50km in the UK earlier this summer.

The path to Chamonix now goes through the UTMB World Series  

Up until now, runners who wanted to compete in the UTMB had to earn qualifying points in a vast array of races around the world and improve their ITRA score. But after the UTMB organization partnered with the Ironman Group, a new UTMB World Series was introduced. Next year’s UTMB—as well as the 100km CCC race and 56km OCC race during the UTMB festival—will require runners to qualify by collecting “Running Stones” via the 25-race UTMB World Series that amount to lottery tickets for those events. The idea is that runners participate in regional or destination races to earn the chance to run the championship events. Chamonix. The new setup is loosely modeled after the Ironman triathlon series of events that culminates every October in a world championship event in Kailua-Kona. The other events held during the UTMB week in Chamonix—the 290km PTL, 145km TDS, 42km MCC, 15km YCC (youth race) and the new 15km ETC—will continue to be filled on a first-come, first-served basis, though the PTL has special requirements and the MCC is typically reserved for local residents, race officials and race volunteers. Registration for those events will begin on January 3, 2023 .

Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB): Route, contenders and live tracking

The Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) is one of the world’s best known endurance running events, taking place each August.

It is the centrepiece of a week-long event named after it, the UTMB World Series Finals. Based in Chamonix, France, it sees almost 10,000 runners compete in seven different races.

A brutal 170km route, the UTMB itself features more than 10km of ascent. 

Here is our full guide to learning about ‘the Superbowl of ultrarunning,’ from following it live to even how to take part in it yourself.

You can read our full report of the 2023 men’s race and Jim Walmsley’s win HERE.

You can read about Courtney Dauwalter’s historic win in the 2023 women’s race HERE.

UTMB 2024 date, start time & live tracking

UTMB 2024 will take place at the end of August/ start of September. In 2023, the UTMB started at 1800 local time (1700 BST) on Friday September 1, 2023, with runners having 46 hours 30 minutes to complete the course. 

Each competitor carries a GPS tracking device, which allows race organisers to monitor their progress and to ensure every competitor stays safe. The GPS device also allows fans to follow the race online. 

You can follow the UTMB live HERE .

Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) Route    

The UTMB is a 170km loop that takes runners through three countries; France, Switzerland and Italy. On many occasions the course goes above 2,400m in altitude as competitors follow the Tour Du Mont Blanc route.

The race begins in Chamonix and heads anticlockwise to Saint Gervais, Les Contamines and La Balme. Les Chapieux and Lac Combal are checkpoints five and six before the race descends to Courmayeur before climbing once more, eventually hitting Grand Col Ferret- the highest peak of the race at 2,537m.

The route continues via La Fouly and Triente, with the final checkpoint coming at La Flégère, 166.3km into the course. From there it’s all downhill, resulting in an exciting finish as runners descend into Chamonix hoping to be inside the 46:30 cut-off time.

There are several climbs and subsequent descents runners find difficult. The first comes around 10km in, when runners will climb to Col de Voza (1700m) around 13km in. After descending all the way down to Saint Gervais (21km), runners then begin a long climb to Croix du Bonhomme (2500m) 45km.

Other notable climbs include going from Cormayeur (81km) to the Cormayeur Refuge Bertone (87km) and the subsequent climb to Grand Col Ferret (104km), Champex-Lac (127km) to Le Giete (138km) and Trient (143km) to Les Tseppes (147km)- all of which have seen race-changing overtakes throughout the years.

Generally there is always some modification to the route due to weather or route condition. Last year,at UTMB 2023, organisers took the decision to modify the route, changing the Col des Montets section. Runners instead headed via the Béchar and the Bois de la Trappe, a variation planned for bad weather conditions.

Facts, Tips & FAQ

The UTMB was first held in 2003 when only 67 runners completed the course. Tackling rain, hail and cold weather, Nepal’s Dawa Sherpa and USA’s Krissy Moehl were the inaugural men’s and women’s winners. 

Two years later, Britain’s Lizzy Hawker won her first UTMB title. She has since recorded another four victories and holds the record for podium placings with six, having also finished second in 2009. 

While Hawker is the UTMB’s leading lady, Frenchman Francois D’Haene and Spaniard Kilian Jornet top the men’s rankings with four wins. D’Haene’s came in starts: 2012, 2014, 2017 and 2021, with Jornet triumphing in 2008, 2009, 2011 and 2022.

It took 20 years for an American man to win the UTMB, with Jim Walmsley finally breaking the barrier in 2023. By contrast, five US women have won the race on nine occasions between them.

The age range of elite competitors at mountain running’s most famous event is illustrated by the men’s winners from 2006 to 2008. Italian veteran Marco Olmo finished strongly to take victory aged 58 and 59 in 2006 and 2007, clocking 21:06:06 and 21:31:58 respectively.  

The following year saw the now legendary Jornet claim the spoils aged just 20 and the youngest entrant in the race. 

As well as tackling the challenging terrain, runners must be prepared for a considerable range of weather conditions.  

The average maximum temperature for Chamonix in late August/early September is 26°C, with the daytime average around 21°C. Overnight, temperatures average 10°C, with 6°C not uncommon.  

With every 1000m of ascent, you can expect a 6.5°C drop in temperature, which is why runners are required to carry such a variety of clothing. 

On average, the last week of August/first week of September only features one day of rain, but light showers are fairly likely. 

How to qualify and enter for Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB)

Qualification for the UTMB is based around a points system called Running Stones.

Running stones are awarded for UTMB World Series events, with the UTMB acting as the UTMB World Series Finals event for the 100 mile category.

The more qualifying races runners compete in, the greater chance they have of earning a place through the ballot by way of having more Running Stones- which act as an entry to the lottery for a spot.

Generally, one running stone is earned for a 20k index race, two for a 50k, three for a 100k and four for a 100 mile.

All running stones earned at a UTMB World Series Major are doubled.

A list of UTMB World Series Events can be found HERE.

Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) records and past winners 

France’s Francois D’Haene and Spain’s Kilian Jornet are the most successful male runner in UTMB history with his four wins apiece. Great Britain’s Lizzy Hawker is the most successful female runner , having also won four times – in 2005, 2008, 2010 and 2011. 

Prior to 2022, different reports had credited D’Haene and Spain’s Pau Capell with the men’s course record. D’Haene clocked 20:11:44 in 2014 and Capell 20:19:07 in 2019, but distances have been adapted over the years due to weather conditions. In 2020, with the race postponed due to Covid-19, Capell attempted to break the 20-hour barrier in a solo effort, but his “Breaking 20” bid came up short. 

However, Jornet’s 2022 winning time of 19:49:30 resolved that debate. Indeed, 2022 runner-up Mathieu Blanchard (France) recorded the second fastest time ever with 19:54:50.

There is universal agreement that USA’s Courtney Dauwalter set a new women’s record in 2021. Dawaulter finished seventh overall as she clocked 22:30:55 that year. This was six minutes 42 seconds faster than the previous record set by fellow American Rory Bosio in 2013. Dauwalter’s effort was even more impressive, since the course was around 3km longer in 2021 than in 2013. 

Past winners (since 2010)  

2010 – Men: Jez Bragg (GBR) 10:30:37. Women: Lizzy Hawker (GBR) 11:47:30* 

2011 – Men: Kilian Jornet (SPA) 20:36:43. Women: Lizzy Hawker (GBR) 25:02:00 

2012 – Men: Francois D’Haene (FRA) 20:34:57. Women: Lizzy Hawker (GBR) 12:32:13* 

2013 – Men: Xavier Thevenard (FRA) 21:09:15. Women: Rory Bosio (USA) 22:37:26 

2014 – Men: Francois D’Haene (FRA) 20:11:44. Women: Rory Bosio (USA) 23:23:20 

2015 – Men: Xavier Thevenard (FRA) 21:09:15. Women: Nathalie Mauclair (FRA) 25:15:40 

2016 – Men: Ludovic Pommeret (FRA) 22:00:2. Women: Caroline Chaverot (FRA) 25:15:40 

2017 – Men: Francois D’Haene (FRA) 19:01:54. Women: Núria Picas (SPA) 25:46:43* 

2018 – Men: Xavier Thevenard (FRA) 20:44:16. Women: Francesca Canepa (ITA) 26:03:48 

2019 – Men: Pau Capell (SPA) 20:19:07. Women: Courtney Dauwalter (USA) 24:34:26 

2020 – Postponed due to Covid-19 

2021 – Men: Francois D’Haene (FRA) 20:46:00. Women: Courtney Dauwalter (USA) 22:30:55 

2022 – Men: Kilian Jornet (SPA) 19:49:30. Women: Katie Schide (USA) 23:15:12

2023 – Men: Jim Walmsley (USA) 19:37:43 Women: Courtney Dauwalter (USA) 23:29:14

* Courses shortened due to poor weather 

Full results archive  

Who is taking part at Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) 2024? 

Our overview of the elite contenders for UTMB 2024 will be available closer to the time, but out preview of the 2023 UTMB field can be found HERE .

Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) kit list

All participants in the UTMB must carry mandatory kit at all times. A full kit check takes place prior to the start. Depending on the conditions, organisers may require competitors to carry additional hot or cold weather kit. 

Basic kit  

Backpack – needs to carry mandatory kit throughout the race. 

Mobile phone – runners must be reachable at any time before, during and after the race. The phone must be enabled for roaming in France, Italy and Switzerland. A battery pack is recommended. 

Water beaker – 150ml minimum capacity. Bottles or flasks with lids are not permitted. 

Water – minimum supply is 1 litre. 

Torches – runners must carry two, each with spare batteries. Recommended brightness is 200 lumens. 

Survival blanket – minimum size is 1.40m x 2m. 

Whistle  

Bandage – self adhesive, for bandaging or strapping. Minimum size 100cm x 6cm. 

Food – 800kcal recommended (eg  2 energy gels + 2 power bars, each 65g). 

Jacket – must have integrated hood and be waterproof to minimum of 10,000 Schmerber. 

Trousers or leggings – must cover legs completely. 

Headgear – either cap, bandana or buff. 

Base layer – must be long-sleeved, weighing at least 180g or 110g if combined with a windproof jacket 

Waterproof gloves  

Waterproof over trousers  

ID – passport or ID card  

Hot weather kit  

Sunglasses – can double up as protective eye wear in cold weather kit 

Cap – Saharan cap or any combination which completely covers the head and nape of the neck 

Sunscreen – minimum is SPF 50. 

Water – minimum 2 litres 

Cold weather kit  

Protective eyewear  

Third warm layer – to go between baselayer and waterproof jacket 

Extra jacket – Fleece or compressible down jacket 

Trail shoes – must be closed toe, minimalist or ultralight shoes are not permitted. 

UTMB Events

The UTMB is the showpiece of a festival of running that includes six other events of varying difficulty.

These are the 100km CCC , the 145km TDS , the 55km OCC , the 300km PTL , the 40km MCC , and the YCC youth series.

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The Tour du Mont Blanc’s 11 stages

This page will help you get a grip on the route of the Tour du Mont Blanc. There are 11 Tour du Mont Blanc étapes (stages). If you’re planning to trek self guided independently, then you need to get acquainted really well with the trail route and understand it as much as you can before trying to plan your days and where you will stay.

The Tour starts traditionally in Les Houches, a village at the beginning of the Chamonix Valley and it’s actually possible to hike either way around the loop – clockwise or anti-clockwise. Most hikers hike anti-clockwise so that the views of Mont Blanc are always in front of you, but there are actually advantages of hiking clockwise, namely less traffic on the trail in the mornings.

There are several alternative start points to the TMB if you don’t want to start at Les Houches. You could start at any of the main towns along the trail – Les Contamines (France), Courmayeur (Italy) or Champex-Lac (Switzerland).

It’s also possible to start your hike a couple of stages earlier in the Chamonix Valley so instead of starting at Stage 1, you could for example start at Stage 11 and do Stage 1 as your day 2. I often suggest this when I help trekkers plan their itinerary (I offer private consultations via zoom). This is a great option as accommodation is limited between stages 10 and 11 so by starting off on Stage 11 (you can get the Brévent cable car up from Chamonix town centre) you can either do this as a day hike and return to your Chamonix hotel, or you can book somewhere to stay in Les Houches if you want to be moving each day. This means you would finish at the end of Stage 10. Bear in mind that Stage 11 has a long, brutal descent – in fact if you took the Brévent cable car up and then the summit cable car after – you would be whizzed to the top of Brévent (and that spectacular views! ) within minutes – you would ONLY have descent for the remainder of the day (around 5 hours). If you have delicate knees then you might want to re-consider turning this into your first day!

Its also a great idea to do Stages 10 and 11 as day hikes. This allows you to get some ‘training’ hikes in before with just a day pack before you set off into the wilderness!

If you aim to camp along the trail (and are not therefore tied to refuge bookings) and bad weather is predicted for the end of your trek. Instead of missing stage 10 and 11’s outrageously incredible views of Mont Blanc due to closed in weather, you could start at stage 10 and lap up the views before continuing onto ‘Stage 1’.

For now though let’s talk through each stage.

What is a ‘stage’ on the TMB?

The Tour du Mont Blanc hiking route has been divided into 11 sections which can be hiked in a day. Each section is called a ‘stage’.

If you are hiking independently and do not plan to book onto a guided tour, you do not have to follow the recommended 11 stages – you can easily create your own daily hiking plan to fit to your own schedule or level of fitness.

However, all the Tour du Mont Blanc guide books refer to these stages so it’s a good place to start to get to know the trail and is invaluable during your planning phase. If you are planning your trek yourself and going down the self guided route, expect it to take a while to read up, get to know the trail and then plan your days meticulously. There’s plenty of posts here that can help you. Read our Planning – First Steps article.

How long is each stage?

It’s worth noting that each ‘stage’ is LONG averaging between 13-20km per day over challenging terrain, expect between 700m up to 1000m elevation gain each day! Covering the entire Tour du Mont Blanc in 11 days is no walk in the park – expect to be on the trail between 7-9 hours per day.

Some of you may want to walk at a more leisurely pace and cover a shorter distance each day. In this case trekking the entire circuit of the Tour du Mont Blanc could take you nearer 14 days to complete.

Many hikers choose to hike the trek over two summers dividing the Tour du Mont Blanc in half which is a very sensible option. I’ve done this when hiking with my 10 year old. Most hikers split the trek and hike (in which ever order they like):

➳ Les Houches (Chamonix Valley- FRANCE) to Courmayeur (ITALY)

➳ Courmayeur (ITALY) – Les Houches (Chamonix Valley – FRANCE)

Other superhuman hikers fast pack the trail in a week whilst hundreds of hardcore athletes run the trail every August in the ultra endurance race, the UTMB arriving back in Chamonix with 21 -46.5 hours! The choice is yours.

Stage breakdown and overview

Below is a brief breakdown of each stage which will help you get a feel for the route of the Tour du Mont Blanc. The Tour starts traditionally in Les Houches, a village at the end of the Chamonix Valley.

If you want to make a shorter itinerary, for example you only have limited time of say a week, or you want to make shorter days because you don’t want to hike 7-9 hours every day (I hear you), then go on over to our Itineraries page where we have ready made suggested itineraries to shorten sections or to only hike the most stunning stages.

And of course if you have the time and want to hike shorter distances each day (because even the 11 day itinerary has some serious kilometres and elevation each day!) then know that there are refuges every 5km along the Tour du Mont Blanc trail so you can make your own itinerary to suit your needs. Just be sure to book early (Oct-Nov for the following summer) so that you can have your choice of refuges.

Tour du Mont Blanc distances & countries

LES HOUCHES (CHAMONIX) – LES CONTAMINES

• height gain 646m
• height loss 633m

Stage 1 starts from the village of Les Houches at the end of the Chamonix Valley, works its way over to the village of Bionnassay then down into the Montjoie Valley to the town of Les Contamines.

Faced at the beginning of trail with a brutal 600m climb from Les Houches to the Col du Voza (1653m), trekkers can opt out of this and choose to take the Bellevue cable car and be whizzed to more of less the same elevation in less than 5 minutes. Read our post on TMB short cuts .

From the Col du Voza see spectacular views of the Dome du Gouter and Aiguille de Bionnassay. The trail now meanders down through pleasant hamlets and verdant woodland. It’s still a long day but undemanding in terms of exposure and almost completely downhill if you take the cable car up.

It’s a good introduction to the trail to warm up the legs and soak up the French ambiance but nothing in terms of sheer rugged wild beauty which is yet to come.

VARIANT TRAIL – COL DU TRICOT – There is an alternative route for Stage 1 (18km) that passes the Col du Tricot (2120m) which offers much more spectacular views than the traditional route. It’s classed as a more challenging route, which it is compared to the traditional Stage 1, however in my opinion it is not ‘difficult’ and it’s certainly worth the extra effort for the highlights of crossing a Himalayan suspension bridge (crossing the rushing glacial water over this bridge is a highlight of mine), the spectacular views of Glacier Bionassay and the fantastic view of Dômes du Miage. I would say that more trekkers actually take this route than the traditional stage 1 route now and in fact in Kingsley Jones’s guidebook THIS IS simply stage 1. If you take the Bellevue cable car short cut from Les Houches (which I would ALWAYS recommend as it cuts 2 hours of unspectacular up) then it’s only a couple of minutes before you will reach the variant stage 1 trail (see map below). If you want to hike the traditional trail it takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the trail from the top of the Bellevue cable car. It takes me 2 hours to reach the top of the Col du Tricot from the Bellevue cable car. You then have a very steep descent down to Refuge Miage. It takes me 1 hour to descend the steep zig zag trail. DO NOT rush this – an injury here would be terribly disappointing. So in total it takes me 3 hours to get to Refuge Miage which I would highly suggest for lunch – they have a lovely garden overlooking the Dôme du Miage – book ahead in peak season. This variant should NEVER be considered in bad weather. You would not want to be on the top of the Col du Tricot in a lightening storm, plus the descent to Refuge Miage would be hazardous in rain. However look at the weather forecast – if it is predicting thunderstorms in the afternoon (which is common around 4pm in July and August) then this route would be perfectly okay if you were setting off at 8am in the morning – remember it only takes 3 hours to get to Refuge Miage and after this point the route is not a problem in bad weather. Accommodation options are at Refuge de Miage (private refuge – they have one large dorm or lovely private tiny chalets in the garden) or Auberge du Truc (very authentic basic stay available to book on the TMB website) both before Les Contamines. If you’re after a much more adventurous bed for the night consider taking the ‘smuggler’s trail ‘ from the top of Col du Tricot to the tiny 18 bed Refuge Plan Glacier. If you’re looking for more information on the refuges of the TMB I’ve written an ebook on them – click here to find out more .

If you’re looking to shorten your Tour du Mont Blanc trek into less days, then the traditional route through Bionassay is one of the recommended stages to skip. However I would never recommend skipping variant stage 1 – it’s one of my favourites! However if you simply don’t have time and for example want to do the half TMB to Courmayeur but only have 3 days and don’t want to hike longer than the standard stages each day then it would make sense to start in Les Contamines and skip this stage. This can be done by taking the bus from Chamonix to Les Contamines and starting your trail there. Or if you’re coming direct from Geneva Airport you can get an airport transfer direct to Les Contamines (which is easier than catching the bus from Chamonix to Les Contamines because you need to change bus in St Gervais and often the wait time is frustratingly long). Depending on the timetable schedule it can take between 2-4 hours to reach Les Contamines on public transport. Consider a private transfer if there’s a group of you.

If you’re looking how to make stage 2 slightly easier, consider taking the Bellevue cable car to cut 2 hrs off your trail & push on through Les Contamines to stay at the first refuge on the trail after the town. Nant Borrant is a gorgeous chalet refuge 1 hr up the trail (up a very steep hill!) which will give you a head start the following day

COL DE LA FORCLAZ (CH) – TRÉ-LE-CHAMP (FR)

• height gain 1069m
• height loss 1178m

Mont Blanc finally comes back into view today as you climb the Col de Balme (2191m) re-entering France from Switzerland. The views at the top are stunning as the Chamonix Valley lays beneath you.

The Refuge Col de Balme has new owners who have breathed new life into the refuge. The food is amazing – try the local dish Tartiflette, a bubbling potato & cheese feast. It’s a great place to stop for an early lunch before tackling the descent from Aiguillette des Possettes down to the tiny hamlet of Tré-le-Champ.

VARIANT – REFUGE LES GRANDS – this variant route is a much less trodden route and a beautiful but challenging variant. It can be combined with the stage 8 variant route for the adventurous that are willing to cook for themselves in Refuge Les Grands. Starting at the Col de la Forclaz this route follows the Bisse du Trient to buvette Chalet du Glacier up to the Refuge Les Grands (often unmanned) and then joins the Col de Balme. From here it’s the same route via the Aiguillette des Posettes down to Tré-le-Champ as the traditional route.

Once you arrive at Refuge du Col de Balme with the Chamonix Valley before you, those of you who want to cut short your day can take the Autannes chair lift half way down & then the Le Tour gondola lift all the way down to the village of Le Tour on the valley floor. From there there are regular no 2 buses into Chamonix (every 30 mins) so you could opt to stay the night in more comfort in Le Tour, Argentiere or Chamonix. The best way to get back on the trail the following morning is to catch the train to Montroc and follow the path at the back of the train station for 15 minutes up to the start point at the Col du Montets parking. It’s a little trickier to catch theses – no 18 to Vallorcine runs 6 times a day or the n o 21 shuttle bus from Les Planards (in Chamonix) to Col du Montets will drop you at the car park, however the first bus doesn’t leave until 9.20 arriving at 9.27.

Money on the TMB

Tour du Mont Blanc self guided v guided

Tour du Mont Blanc Tips – good advice before you begin

37 comments.

Ashish Shukla

This is Ashish from New York. I stumbled upon your website and I must thank you for a really well written account of all the stages. I have not found such a detailed and succinct explanation for each stage anywhere else and I have done a fair bit of research. Thank you Thank you Thank you!! After reading this blog and your public transportation write up, I feel way more confident to tackle this hike starting on September 01-2021. I am planning to do it in 6 nights/7days.

tourdumontblanchike

Hi Ashish, you’re welcome. Have a great trek!

I totally agree with Ashish’s comments, above. We’ve done the full TMB (in 2015) and yet I still find I’m thoroughly entranced by all of the information, pictures, and tips for good planning that you share. Well done!! This is an excellent resource. I love its down-to-earth, friendly, honest tone. It’s so helpful to get real-life perspectives and details. You present them all in a very reader-friendly manner. The entries about the various refuges, and the descriptions of the traditional TMB stages, are particularly helpful… although, really, *everything* here provides great information. (My only suggestion (humbly offered) would be to proof-read the Casermetta Museum / Col de la Seigne history paragraphs, which seem of very different quality than the rest). Andrew McCluggage has put out a recent and very good book on the TMB, to add to the classic guides by Kev Reynolds and Jim Manthorpe; have you seen it? Your photographs and the attractive arrangement of each page/screen on your site really captures the allure and the magnificence of the TMB. It is an epic experience, from start to finish. Bravo, Mags!!! We will be keeping your work bookmarked for our next trip back!! I wish I could say we were heading out on the trail *today*!

Hi Caroline, thanks for getting in touch and for your kind words. I have re-read the Casermetta post and oh my gosh – why was that not proof read! I think some of it had been translated from Italian and not checked! Apologies! I’ve taken it offline as it needs to be updated anyhow – I hiked over the Col de la Seigne a couple of weeks ago and had the pleasure of interviewing one of the staff at the Casermetta so I have that interview on film which will be uploaded to the post. Hiked the variant stage 9 a couple of days ago which is a real favourite – stunning views of the Trient Glacier! I haven’t yet read Andrew’s book but I shall – will be hiking the tour again fully in September so I’ll aim to take that one with me this time and add it to our post on guidebooks. Thanks again for letting me know about the Casermetta post – glad you did 🙂 Best wishes. Mags

Thanks, Caroline! Hi, Mags – I am starting my hike from Le Brevent. So, the last day of my hike, I am planning to go from Trient to Le Brevent (via Lac Blanc) in one day. I think that’s approximately 19 miles. I was wondering if you have completed that section and your thoughts on whether it can be done in one day? The one constraint I am running into is that the last cable car (descent) from Le Brevent to Chamonix is at 4:30pm. So, I will probably have to start super early from Trient. Not sure if this is do-able in one day. I welcome your thoughts/suggestions.

Hi Ashish this would be an incredibly long day. Do you want to take public transport? One way to cut some time would be to take the chairlift down from Col de Balme then the bubble to the village of Le Tour. Then catch a bus (or walk) down the straight road to Montroc. Cross the train tracks at Montroc and walk behind the station where there is a trail that takes you up to Tré-le-Champ (10-15 mins up). This cuts out the up to Aiguillette des Posettes and the long long descent into Tré-le-Champ. It’s the only way you could cut the trail. Cutting out the Posettes would gain you possibly 2-2.5 hours although it would take at least 45 mins to get to there via public transport but at least saving your legs for the 3 hours up to Lac Blanc from Tré-le-Champ. It would be a long long day and I have to say I would never consider it but if you are a super fast trekker and aim to set off at 6am then its possible. You could always see how you are going when you get to Flégère and if you think you’re running behind take the cable car down into the valley from Flegere instead of continuing to Brevent (2-2.5 hours further). Good luck. Let me know how you get on.

This is a great resource bar none ! If I do stages 10 and 11 in consequtive days and want to stay at a hotel each night, would a stay in the same one both nights ? How do shuttles work at the end of each stage or what other tranportation modes are needed to return the the hotel in the evening ? Thank you

Hi Bob thanks for your kind words. I’m glad our website has helped you! Yes you can stay in the same hotel. It’s a good idea and actually I’ve recommended it before to hikers who want to see a bit of Chamonix first before setting off on the trek as it’s a good way to get a few days training hikes before leaving. Of course it sounds like you’d do this at the end of the trek so you would be arriving down from Col du Balme, to Tre-le-Champ. You will need to stay either in Argentiere, Les Praz or Chamonix. Les Praz would be more convenient as the Flegere cable car arrives here at the end of your next day but there are only a few hotels here (Hotel Eden is nice). Once you arrive in Tre-le-Champ the best way to head down the valley for the night is to walk down to the train station. To get here pass the Easter Island heads in the village (you can’t miss them!) and bear on the lower left hand trail – you will pop out at the train station in around 15 minutes. You will be able to catch the train to Argentiere, Les Praz or Chamonix. You will need to repeat this journey to get to the start of the trail again the following morning. What will be nice is that you won’t need to bring your heavy pack with you!! Stage 10 ends at Flegere – it’s a very short day even with the Lac Blanc detour so you may decide to hike on to Brevent to cut a bit of your trail time the next day. At Brevent you can also take the cable car down to the valley floor (Chamonix) so in this case it would make sense to stay overnight in Chamonix instead of Les Praz. Stage 11 ends in Chamonix Les Houches. There are frequent buses and the train that would bring you back to your hotel.If you followed this plan you could spend the 3 nights in the same hotel.

Merci beaucoup for this information, it is much appreciated. It has helped me so much in planning. The information is succinct and the web design in phenomenal!

I would like to start at Champex, go anti-clockwise, hike the TMB back around to Champex then continue on to hike the Walkers Haute Route to Zermatt. I plan on getting to Champex early to mid September after hiking a long trail in the USA June-Sept, so will have my “trail legs” then hopefully. It looks like the UTMB race will be over at the end of August so this will not be an issue. I also want to camp in a tent for the majority of the trail, sleeping in Refuges only infrequently and when I do I would not need a private room. I have ultra light gear and have experience through hiking in the USA.

Is this an unwise plan, given the start date I have chosen? It looks like the weather will still be reasonable. I do not want to miss too many beautiful views due to bad weather (but do not want to wait another year for TMB and Haute)! In September do I still need reserve Refuge bunk beds far in advance? Could I just see what’s available on the trail as I hike? I was planning on the Refuges just for a little food and a shower mostly. Last thing, what is your opinion on using my Zpacks Duplex tent for this time of year? I’m thinking I might need my NEMO Hornet tent instead but it’s heavy. Thank you!

Hi, the weather is normally still very good in September and indeed has rarely any thunder storms compared to August! I had one day of rain in 8 days last year but of course it can vary. I hiked the trail solo in September last year and didn’t book refuges in advance. I only got caught out on one night but managed to find somewhere in the end. I would suggest starting early September if you are planning on continuing onto the Haute Route after. Some refuges ask you to book a meal the day before but most would allow you to eat if there is enough food by just turning up – a few might not so always have a back up handy in the form of expedition food etc just in case. Take the lightweight tent. Bear in mind that wild camping in Italy and Switzerland is tricky. Italy it is legal after 2500m! and Switzerland is not allowed at all so you need to camp at campsites. Courmayeur has no campsites but there are several in the Val Veny – unfortunately it means that you need to miss out stage 4 or hike it & come back round but that’s quite a mission. Hobo Camping is good https://www.campinghobo.com/en/ . I will be camping the trail in July! Have a great hike. All the best. Mags

Hi We’re planning on doing the TMB clockwise and starting at the Brevent. This gives us two opportunities to see some of the best views if the weather is not good. Telepherique up, then head down and stay at Lac Blanc, then normal days for a 10 day trip. Last day would be Les Houches to the Brevent and ride down. Both times up will be in the morning so it increases the chances of clear viewing. We live in Colorado, so we’ll be acclimatized and relatively fit. Any thoughts, advice? ..

Hi Tom the problem with hiking the tour clockwise, especially in Chamonix is that you will have your back to Mont Blanc all the way. I would suggest if you want to start in the Chamonix Valley and take in the magnificent views of Mont Blanc on the first few days that you start from Tre-le-Champ (get the train to Montroc and then hike up 15 minutes on the trail behind the train station up to Tre-Le-Champ) hike up to Lac Blanc and then you would continue TOWARDS Mont Blanc with the views ahead of you the whole time. You can then walk via La Flégère to Le Brévent and down to Les Houches.

Hi, great site and thank you so much for all the information. Where can I find GPX a route file?

Hi Ori FatMaps has a great map of the TMB and you can download the GPX file

https://fatmap.com/routeid/2721627/tour-du-mont-blanc/@46.0001773,6.9058586,3170.4236129,-82.5128444,0,2243.4477193,satellite

Hi! LOVE your website, thank you so much for all the information! I am planning to do the hike in july but I must ask, is stage 7 the only part with exposure? I love hiking in the alps but would really have a probelm walking next to sheer drops (a bit traumatised from hiking in Madeira hehe)

Hi Caroline stage 7 doesn’t have any exposure and is actually the most gentle section of the trail. Do you mean stage 10 with the ladders?

Thanks a LOT for the great site and all the valuable info here ! Is there a Smartphone (iPhone) navigation application with detailed maps for TMB ?

Hi Mark I use the GAIA GPS app – see my article here https://tourdumontblanchike.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-gps-gaia/

Some trekkers also use Trail Trails.

Christopher Legg

Wow, I have also just stumbled across this, whilst I know some of the area, I shall certainly use this to plan my trip. I haven’t read it all yet but I will. Thankyou. very much. Chris from Cornwall

You’re welcome. I’m glad it’s helped you plan your trip. Happy hiking.

hi, thanks for sharing all details about TMB. Would like to know your location for wild camping, those pictures are awesome.

Hi Ivan wild camping is only permitted in one of the three countries the trek goes through – France. Here you are allowed to bivvy from sunset to sunrise. Therefore this gives plenty of scope on the first and last stages. One of the best places is Lac du Cheserys just under Lac Blanc. Camping at Lac Blanc is not permitted. In Italy wild camping is only permitted above 2500m which doesn’t leave much options and in Switzerland camping is only permitted in campsites. I am due to camp the trail in the next two weeks for my first time so I look forward to being able to share more tips about camping the TMB soon. Happy hiking!

thank you so much for sharing all this info – it seems to have the most comprehensive explanation of each stage I’ve been able to find! I was wondering if you had suggestions on grouping stages together – I find a lot of 8-9-10 day itineraries out there and I was wondering if you had a suggested 9 day or 10 day with no rest days?

Hi Brittney. It all depends how much you want to walk each day. As there are refuges every 5km along the trail you can chop up the route into 9 or 10 days without a rest day. I’m not sure what you mean about grouping together stages if you didn’t want a rest day? Happy to help you plan your itinerary over a zoom call. You can find out more about what’s included and book here https://tourdumontblanchike.com/tmb-zoom-consultation/ . Best wishes. Mags

Bob Bergner

Great website! Thanks for all the work (and pleasure) that went into creating it. I speed hiked the TMB a few decades ago–minimal gear, sleeping under the stars wherever the day ended for a few hours a night. It was mid June (lots of snow), so I had the trail largely to myself. A tremendous experience! Now, I’d like to take my wife on a few days of the trail at a more relaxed pace. From what I remember, the last section from Champex back to Chamonix has the most dramatic scenery. Is that correct? Thanks for a quick answer here. And I look forward to setting up a consultation if (when, really) I need more detailed information. Cheers, Bob

Hi Bob wow what an experience that must have been! Yes the variant stage 8 from Champex (via Col du Fenetre) is the most technically difficult as you have to navigate the boulder field but you also benefit from the truly incredible view of the Trient Glacier. Then Stage 10 is stunning as you are traversing along the Balcon Sud flank with Mont Blanc to your left. For me (variant) stage 1, stage 2, 3 & 4 are my favourites unless I’m taking the variant 8 then the Chamonix legs of 10 and 11. Hope that helps? Feel free to message me direct via email to set up a zoom if you need. Best. Mags

Kathy Meldrum

Hi Mags! What a GREAT website! This info is so helpful! I have an idea for an itinerary and I’m wondering if you can provide me with any input. Is there a hike from Chamonix to Col de Balme and on to Tre le Champ where we can stay the night at Auberge La Boerne for day 1? Then on to either Lac Blanc refuge or Flegere for day 2. Then on to Bellechat for day 3 and then descend to Les Houches on day 4. We will be hiking with kids and are looking for something doable yet challenging, but I can’t quite figure out the mileage or how long it would take us. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! -Kathy

Hi Kathy apologies for my delay in responding. Yes this itinerary would work – it’s similar to my 2.5/3 day itinerary here https://tourdumontblanchike.com/3-day-itinerary-lac-blanc/

You can get the train or bus to Montroc and then there is a trail from the back of Montroc train station that takes you up to Tre-Le-Champ. Often it’s easier to do this instead of getting the specific bus from Argentiere to Tre-Le-Champ as it doesn’t go very often but buses go regularly past Montroc up to Le Tour and the train stops there once an hour. It takes between 20-30 minutes to hike up the easy trail.

It only takes around 3 hours to hike from La Boerne to Lac Blanc however you will be hiking with kids so lets say 5 hours so you could have a late start enjoying your breakfast (however all refuges will kick you out around 8 or 9am so La Boerne may do this as well. Its definitely worth staying in Lac Blanc if you can get the reservation though over Refuge Flegere. The kids will love the ladders on the way up from La Boerne!

Bellachat doesn’t have a shower just to let you know but it would be a necessary stop for you with kids. It’s a good itinerary. Go for it!

Excellent article, thanks so much for sharing and wishing you many more hiking adventures. Katie

Thanks Katie. Have a great trek!

Hi! I’ve used this resource while planning over the past year and it’s been a huge help! We’re leaving in 2 weeks to begin half of the TMB, Chamonix – Courmayeur. Time is limited as we plan to travel to see the rest of Italy after. However, I’ve been disappointed to not see the great views everyone talks about in the final stages. Is there a way to take the Brévent cable car to Le Brévent, see the views and continue on to Les Contamines without making the descent down into Les Houches? Any public transportation options we could use to try and combine stage 11 and 1? We’re not scared of a long day, just not sure how doable it all is.

Hi Aysia absolutely you can take the Brevent cable car from the centre of Chamonix (you have to walk up the steep hill from the Gendarmerie to get to the cable car station). Take the first cable car up to the mid station (Plan Praz) then you can get the next cable car up to the summit of Brevent, have a look and then come back down. You can then get the no 1 bus from the Chamonix Centre bus stop (which is just around the corner from the Gendarmerie) to Les Houches. There is a bus stop right outside Bellevue cable car (bus stop Bellevue) or if you want to walk through the official arch to start the trek outside the tourist office you would need to get off at ‘Les Houches Mairie’ stop which is two stops before Bellevue. Its just a 10 minute walk to walk down the main road to Bellevue if you wanted to get a photo at the arch. Hope this helps! Have a great trek!

Would you please provide information on the itinerary and refugios you took? Planning the same over ideally 5 or so days! Thanks

Thank you so much for the helpful site, it has been my go-to reference for planning my trip. We are doing the traditional 11 day itinerary beginning is Les Houches, and would like to spend the last night at Lac Blanc. I understand the last day is rough on the knees and having a bad knee already I am curious if staying at Lac Blanc that night will add to the decent on day 11, and if there is a shortcut option to cut down on some of the intense downhill. Thanks!

Hi Rachelle thanks for the kind words. Yes staying in Lac Blanc will add a little onto the next day however what I would do is descend down from Lac Blanc to Refuge Flegere and continue along the TMB balcony trail towards Brevent (epic views along here of Mont Blanc) then when you get to Plan Praz (the mid station at Brevent) I would take the cable car up to the summit and then maybe finish your trek there. There is a cafe there so you can have a celebratory beer overlooking the viewing platform for Mont Blanc and then get the summit cable car down and then the mid station cable car down to Chamonix. This leaves out the long 1300m descent into Chamonix on stage 11. Or the alternative is to add an extra night at the Bellachat refuge so that you split this day in two. Hope this helps.

I, of course, must add that this site is beyond helpful (so many things that I didn’t even know I needed to know)

I thought I was finished planning a shortened version of the TMB. However, after going through your site, I think I need to make an adjustment.

Because we are time limited, we will be skipping certain portions (taking the bus from Courmayeur to Arnuva, then another from Ferret to Champex; and taking the train from Argentiere to Chamonix).

However, Brevent and Balcon Sud seem like they shouldn’t be missed (I love mountain ladders, and scary, narrow paths with great views). We have one day in Chamonix built in before we start (in case the flight from the US has issues). We could use this day to see those areas.

Do you have a suggestion on a one-day version to/from Chamonix to the Brevent / Balcon Sud area (I have no qualms about taking chair lifts/gondolas to make this work)

Thank you so much for making the TMB do-able for all of us.

Hi Anne. Merry Christmas. Apologies for my late reply. Absolutely you can do stage 10 and some of 11 as a day hike. You would need to get the bus or the train from Chamonix to Montroc. I would choose the train if I were you as its a lovely ride and free with the Chamonix guest card that you can get from your hotel. Read my post https://tourdumontblanchike.com/what-is-a-chamonix-guest-card-carte-dhote/ (note there is a bus stop right outside the train station at Montroc too). Disembark from the train then turn right and keep right until you reach a small car park where you’ll see an unsigned trail head – this is the trail up to Tre-Le-Champ. It won’t take you long to reach the village and you’ll be surprised by a number of carved Easter Island heads on the corner when you arrive in the hamlet. With the heads on your right, carry on straight and up to the main Col des Montets busy road. Cross and see the well signposted trail ahead of you. This is the start of stage 10 and is the traditional ladders route. It takes around 1.5 hours to reach the ladders which start at the L’Aiguillette d’Argentière (a rock spire where you’ll find rock climbers climbing) and end at the Tete dux Vents, the cairn which marks the turn off for Lac Blanc. It takes me 3 hours to get to Lac Blanc from Tre-Le-Champ. It’s nice to have lunch here and admire the view before descending down to Refuge Flegere (around an hour). Then you can walk the balcony between Flegere and Brevent. It takes a couple of hours and the views of Mont Blanc are outstanding. You can then choose to take the summit cable car up to Brevent from Plan Praz (the mid station). It’s a great view up there and there is a cafe. This is a good place to end your trek as it takes a further 4-5 hours to descend from the summit of Brevent down to Les Houches to complete stage 11 so I would take the summit cable back down to Plan Praz and then catch the cable car from Plan Praz back down to the centre of Chamonix. A perfect day! Enjoy! Best wishes. Mags

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What is the 'Tour du Mont Blanc'? 15 quick facts

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The ultra trail du mont blanc - utmb.

The Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, also known as the UTMB is the most expected trail-running event for trail-runners from all over the world.

Each year, at the end of August, the elite of the trail-running world, almost 8000 runners, come to Chamonix Mont-Blanc to participate in one of the event's races.

The UTMB crosses three countries: France, Italy and Switzerland.

This year, the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc is to take place from 28 August to 3 September 2023. So, rendez-vous in Chamonix, to experience the adventure of this mountain Ultra Marathon!

Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc 2023 Are you ready to live your dream?

The Ultra Trail of the Mont Blanc starts in Chamonix, on the French side of Mont-Blanc. This part of the circuit is the friendliest: beautiful valleys, forest paths, mellow curves and an incomparable flora.

Then, a balcony-style path unveils the Italian side. This part of the trail is bordered by a fierce and dark rock face, bristling with peaks. After the Italian Val Ferret, the Swiss Val Ferret offers a return to a friendlier view of the mountains.

The Mont-Blanc area, a unique and genuine region, invites you, in the course of this hike, to discovery its varied and majestic scenery. You will be astonished with the impressive massif of the Mont-Blanc, omnipresent in front of your gaze throughout the circuit.

Committing oneself, to running around Mont-Blanc, is above all to experience an internal adventure, an unique experience where each participant will have to draw from their strengths and push their mental and physical limits in order to cross the finishing line.

This extraordinary trip at the heart of the massif will permit trail-runners to cross through seven valleys, over 71 glaciers and 400 summits, in an alpine décor which is unique in the world.

Many concerts and festivals will take place in the town of Chamonix! Check the 2023 Agenda

The Competitions of the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB)

Four individual races

• The UTMB (Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc): around 171 km with about 10,000 metres of height gain, starts from Chamonix, in semi-autonomy and in 46:30 hours maximum.
• The CCC (Courmayeur-Champex-Chamonix): around 101 km with about 6,100 metres height gain, starts from Courmayeur, in semi-autonomy and in 26:30 hours maximum.
• The TDS (Sur les Traces des Ducs de Savoie): around 145 km with about 9,100 metres height gain, starts from Courmayeur, in semi-autonomy and in 44:00 hours maximum.
• The OCC (Orsières-Champex-Chamonix):  around 56 km for about 3,500 metres of height gain, starts from Orsières, in semi-autonomy within a maximum of 14:30 hours.

A race for teams

• The PTL (La Petite Trotte à Léon): this event is appreciably different from the 4 other events and has its own regulations.
• The MCC (From Martigny-Combe to Chamonix) around 40 km for about 2300 metres of height gain, starts from Martigny-Combe, in semi-autonomy and in  10 hours max.

Races dedicated to young people

• The YCC (Youth Chamonix Courmayeur) :  a sporting challenge for the young aged 16 – 22 years, born between 1999 and 2007, consisting of a prologue in Chamonix on Tuesday of the event week, at the end of the afternoon, and a 5 to 15 km race (depending on the category) in Courmayeur the following day. Around 300 runners. This race has its own regulations.
• The  ETC  : around 15km and about 1300 meters elevation gain, starts from Courmayeur, in semi-autonomy. Cut-off time for finishing is 4 hrs. The race is reserved for runners 23 years and older. 
• The MINI UTMB for children 3-13 years of age. 

How to choose your race, more info click here .

Useful pages

To volunteer your assistance with race management, check here For the rules of the UTMB, check here For the 2023 registrations, check here For transports, check here For accomodation, check here For supporters, check here

More Information

Even if you are not a racer, come and cheer on these courageous athletes.

For up to the minute info, please visit the official Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) website : www.utmbmontblanc.com

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Hoka Ultra Trail du Mont-Blanc

Chamonix , France

26 Aug 2024 (Mon)

300km, 15km, 171km, 145km, 40km, 100km, 55km

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Join Hoka Ultra Trail du Mont-Blanc

The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (also referred to as UTMB) is a single-stage mountain ultramarathon. It takes place once a year in the Alps, and follows the route of the Tour du Mont Blanc through France, Italy and Switzerland. It has a distance of approximately 166 kilometres (103 mi), and a total elevation gain of around 9,600 m. It is widely regarded as one of the most difficult foot races in Europe, and one of the largest with over two thousand starters. 

A MYTHICAL RACE, AN UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

The UTMB® is a trail-running event full of superlatives ! An essential event for trail-runners from all over the world. Each year, the elite of the trail-running world find themselves in Chamonix alongside almost 8000 runners keen to participate in one of the event’s 5 races.

Committing oneself, to running around Mont-Blanc, is above all to experience an internal adventure, an unique experience where each participant will have to draw from their strengths and push their mental and physical limits in order to cross the finishing line. This extraordinary trip at the heart of the massif will permit trail-runners to cross valleys and passes in contact with the most beautiful summits, in an alpine décor which is unique in the world.

Mountain race, with numerous passages in high altitude (>2500m), in difficult weather conditions (night, wind, cold, rain or snow), that needs a very good training, adapted equipment and a real capacity of personal autonomy. 

directions_run Start address: Chamonix,fr

flag Finish address: Chamonix,fr

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Tour du Mont-Blanc

The Tour du Mont-Blanc is our most popular guided and self-guided tour, and for good reason. The “TMB” follows the route of the world-famous trail race of the same name, as it winds its way from France, through Italy, then Switzerland, and finally returning to its starting point on the steps of the old church in Chamonix, France.

We typically allow seven days to make the trip, which gives plenty of time for photos, leisurely rests at mountain huts, and a rest day in Courmayeur, Italy. Strong ultra runners with plenty of experience in alpine settings can accomplish the tour in fewer days. However you run the “TMB”, you’ll enjoy running past glaciers as you circle the Mont Blanc massif. One 30-pound bag can move via pre-arranged taxi service each day, so you’ll have it available at the end each day’s trail run.

Typical Itinerary:

Day 1 : Arrive in Geneva and transfer to Chamonix, the world-famous resort and mountaineering center. An airport pickup is included, making this an easy and relaxing hour and a half journey. Relax at the hotel pool and patio, enjoying your first impressive views of Mont Blanc. 

Day 2 : Before starting the Tour du Mont Blanc, you’ll explore the trails around Chamonix. A dramatic “balcony” run will take you along the valley, with big views of the surrounding glaciers, and the Aiguilles Rouges natural preserve.

Distance 16-19km (10-12mi); 915m (3000ft) ascent and descent; Shorter option available.

Day 3 : Follow an undulating trail over the Tricot pass, and into the Miage valley. This is one of the prettiest corners of the Tour du Mont Blanc! You’ll pass a tiny hamlet of stone houses, which is surrounded by hanging glaciers and grazing animals, before arriving at Les Contamines village.

Distance 22.5km (14mi); 1380m (4530ft) ascent; 1260m (4130ft) descent; Shorter option available.

Day 4 : Following an old Roman road, you’ll climb steadily over two lofty passes – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme and Col du Bonhomme. You’ll then descend into the Vallée de Glaciers, where you’ll sleep in a shared dormitory at a popular hikers’ inn.

Distance 26km (16mi); 1620m (5315ft) ascent; 910m (2990ft) descent

Day 5 : A gradual climb will take you from France to Italy via the Col de la Seigne. Amazing views greet you here! You’ll see Mont Blanc and the Veny valley below. Continue down to Courmayeur, a medieval town with narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and a lively center.

Distance 24km (15mi); 1135m (3730ft) ascent; 1640m (5390ft) descent

Day 6 : After one of our favorite breakfasts on the tour, a second day in Courmayeur gives you a chance to rest and soak in the hot spring spa at nearby Pré Saint Didier. If you’d like to run, the area around Courmayeur is filled with beautiful, quiet single track and huts serving delicious treats, cappuccino, and wine!

Day 7 : You’ll head up to Rifugio Bertone, overlooking the beautiful Val Ferret. From there, you’ll run some of the best single track on the tour. A steep climb takes you to Grand Col Ferret, on the Italian-Swiss border, and then it’s a beautiful, rolling trail down to La Fouly village.

Distance 34km (21mi); 1370m (4480ft) ascent; 1540m (5040ft) descent; Shorter option available.

Day 8 : Start by following the Ferret river, then climb to the pretty lakeside village of Champex-Lac. From there, follow a wooded trail to an alpine pasture. You’ll pass a mountain café, before descending to the Col de la Forclaz, or the nearby hamlet of Trient.

Distance 29km (18mi); 1160m (3810ft) ascent; 1005m (3300ft) descent; Shorter option available.

Day 9 : This last day is a classic! Start by climbing to Col de Balme, which is on the border with France, then drop down to the village of Le Tour, with gorgeous views of Mont Blanc and the entire Chamonix valley. Finish with a riverside run back to Chamonix. Alternatively, hop on a bus or train from Le Tour.

Distance 29km (18mi); 1720m (5640ft) ascent; 2210m (7250ft) descent; Shorter options available.

Day 10 : Today you’ll say “au revoir” to the Tour du Mont-Blanc and the “Vallée du Trail”. You’ll take a transfer back to Geneva,  and depart for your post-Mont Blanc destination.

SELECT YOUR DATES

You can run the Tour du Mont-Blanc any time from mid-June through mid-September. For help with your tour planning, please contact us .

TOUR CHALLENGE

Self-guided tour FAQ

Cooling off on the TMB. (Photo: Sam Hill)

Our self-guided tours are available in some of the best trail running areas the Alps have to offer. When you sign up to run the Tour du Mont-Blanc, your trip will be planned in detail.

Each Tour Mont-Blanc self-guided tour includes the following components:

*In-country shared shuttle transport from Geneva airport to Chamonix, and return from Chamonix to Geneva airport at the end of the trip.

*Three-star hotel and mountain hut bookings.

*Dinners each night, except in Chamonix and Courmayeur; restaurant recommendations will be provided.

*Thorough travel instructions, regional information, our Guide to Trail Running in the Alps , and detailed run descriptions printed on durable, waterproof paper, complete with a run profile, time estimates, bail-out options, emergency numbers, and a map. See a sample of the ‘Overview’ section .

Typical pricing for a ten-day, nine-night tour, following a similar itinerary as this trip , $3,250. Pricing assumes double occupancy. $890 single supplement for single rooms.

Since tour planning time and materials are the same regardless of trip length, cost for shorter trips are not reduced proportionally.

As we work with you to develop your self-guided itinerary, consider adding one of the many great Alp trail races into your plans. Please contact us to discuss trail race options and timing.

Our Tour du Mont-Blanc self-guided trip can start as early as June 15th and as late as September 20th.

No matter where you are, on every self-guided trip, if a serious problem arises, Run the Alps is just a phone call away.

Terms and Conditions : Read up on Run the Alps’ Terms and Conditions and travel insurance.

Concerned about being ready? We can help! We’ve teamed up with the wonderfully supportive team at Vert.run to offer customized training plans tailored to each Run the Alps trip. Once you’ve signed up for a trip, we’ll email you all the details and your unique code for your FREE first month of training! In the meantime, you can start exploring the plans here .

Need a hand preparing?

September 3, 2022, brave the Tour du Mont Blanc with your gravel bike! See you in Megève for an ultimate race solo or in relay (x2), half and randonnée formula.

Running or hiking around Mont-Blanc is the dream of many sportsmen and women, and the legendary UTMB continues to attract thousands of trail runners from all over the world every year.

What if in 2022, we offered you a complete Tour du Mont Blanc, as close as possible to the mountain, via small paths, secondary asphalt roads crossing valleys and mountain passes, all by gravel bike?

On the weekend of September 3 and 4, 2022, get ready for an unprecedented, extraordinary event of more than 200 km and 8,500 m of D +, starting from Megève.

A formula in relay of 2 people (each relay providing half of the tour) and the Half (130km approximately) at the start of Courmayeur are also be proposed.

Moreover, during this weekend dedicated to gravel, a 70km non competitive ride from Megève (the Gravel Tour du Mont Joly) takes place on Sunday morning.

Nicolas Roux, record holder of the Tour du Mont Blanc on road and founder of Grupetto, has designed a route that takes the best of on road and off-roads trails.

The organization will build on the skills of Wish One, the French brand of reference in Gravel, organizer of 2 events in France in 2021 and the 1st French round of the UCI Gravel World Series in 2022.

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29th June 2024

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The ultimate challenge for mid-distance ultra-runners, the OCC is the 50K category final for the UTMB World Series.

Race Category

Elevation Gain

Thursday 29th August 2024

Orsières - 08:15

Max Allowed Race Time

14 Hours 30 Minutes

THE LITTLE SWISS SISTER

The ultimate challenge for middle-distance runners, the OCC will start on a 55km course with 3,425 meters of positive elevation gain from Orsières, located in the south-western part of the canton of Valais in the Val d'Entremont.

This Swiss valley will amaze you with its unique landscapes: The OCC route will take you to the heart of this particular and typical nature before reaching Champex-Lac and Trient. You will then cross the Franco-Swiss border by the emblematic Balme pass and its sublime panorama on the Mont-Blanc massif. Once you have reached the last difficulty of the course and the ascent to La Flégère, you will only have to enjoy the descent and savor your performance by crossing the mythical finish arch in the center of Chamonix under the cheers of families and spectators.

A closer look at the course

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All you need to know to participate in the OCC

All the information you need to know before starting an extraordinary adventure.

Repatriation insurance

Each competitor must have a personal accident insurance covering search and rescue costs in France and Switzerland.

Mandatory equipment

Check the list of mandatory equipment and the heatwave or extreme cold kits that can be activated depending on the weather conditions.

Check the list

Dive deep into the heart of the race

50K Final of the UTMB World Series

The OCC is now the annual 50K category final of the UTMB World Series, the ultimate challenge for all mid-distance ultra runners. Access to the OCC is open to all runners with at least one Running Stone and to elites who have qualified directly via the UTMB World Series races.

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