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Rajah Travels rises from pandemic to mark 50 years in tourism

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By Alithea De Jesus

Who would have thought that fifty years ago, the couple, Jose and Alejandra Clemente’s business idea would become a household name in the tourism country of the Philippines? The Clemente couple decided to start their very own travel agency and named it “Rajah,” a word used to address the highest rank in the Philippine society during the pre-colonial period. Perhaps, to the younger generation, the word Rajah is not a familiar word to them. But the couple deliberately chose the name Rajah, and embrace it to be a part of their culture and values by ensuring the quality of service they commit to provide its customers, that is, with royalty and grandness!

Back in 1972, the Philippines was a “goldmine” of tourist attractions that only a few have known of. Rajah assumed its role as the government pushed for several projects to enhance the potential of the country’s tourism industry. It was at the forefront in making the Philippines known to other countries as a tourist destination as it first capitalized in inbound tourism. Its hearty and sincere efforts of preserving and promoting the Philippine culture along with the liberalization of entry of tourists into the country, eventually paved way for the business to have its big break. Rajah warmly welcomed tourists from nearby countries, mostly from Japan and Hongkong, and of course, catered to our “Balikbayans” coming from the United States.   Needless to say, Rajah became the face of the Philippine tourism and hospitality industry, serving every guest with natural cheerfulness, warmth, sincerity and care that leave an indelible mark in the memories of those people they served.

Rajah Travel Corporation (RTC) was incorporated separately in 1992 as a BSP/IATA travel agency originally to concentrate on outbound ticketing and reservations, wholesaling of tour packages, and consolidating for airlines. From then on, Rajah Travel has served as the catalyst for Filipinos to dream of seeing the world, offering world-class destinations and premium vacations, both to the leisure and corporate market. It partnered with The Travel Corporation (TTC) and has already established world-renowned travel brands like Insight Vacations and Contiki, two of the biggest motorcoach operators in Europe, as well as Uniworld Boutique River Cruises. Through the years, Rajah Travel marketed these brands all over the Philippines as a General Sales Agent. Furthermore, since 1995, Rajah Travel operates Carlson Wagonlit Philippines, a part of the CWT global network, managing business travel, meetings and events, serving organizations of all sizes.  

Rajah Travel continued achieving its success under the leadership of the youngest child of the Clementes, Aileen C. Clemente. Over the years it has transformed into a full-service travel company that also engages business in various travel-related activities: Leisure travel; Corporate Travel Management;  Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions (MICE) Travel, Event Management; Documentation Services; Travel Shop; Tourism Property Management; Travel  Academy, and Tourism Knowledge Center.  

Stewardship 

At the heart of Rajah, is the core value of stewardship. Not only displayed within the company but also in its advocacies around its different tourism projects. 

Since 2015, the Rajah Travel Corporation has been working with the Palawan Liberation Task Force to highlight the historical value of the Palawan Province and the key role it played in World War II. RTC worked with communities to uncover or rediscover lost pieces of history. After thorough research, they were able to install historical markers around the province and they have as well honored veterans and their families during its yearly ceremony. This paved the way for Rajah Travel to create tour packages for both inbound and domestic tourism that are curated to highlight these historical and cultural attractions in various provinces in the country. 

RTC also marked its presence in the global arena as the only member of the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) in the Philippines, actively partaking in raising awareness globally on the issues concerning the travel and tourism industry. In pursuit of the same advocacy in its own country, RTC strengthened its ties with the national and local government, as well as with the private sector including the academe, to establish the Tourism Knowledge Center which envisions to provide a wealth of data, analysis, trends and thematic investigations and study on the various sectors and issues of the tourism industry. It also ventured into providing management services for various tourism sites to assist them in the improvement of their data collection and management system. This is alongside Rajah’s commitment to promoting these sites as well to its global audience. 

Refiner’s Fire  

Rajah Travel Corporation operations like most in the tourism industry was not spared from the adverse effect of COVID in 2020.  There is no denying that many businesses have closed down because of the pandemic while others are still struggling how to keep their business afloat and hopefully recover sooner. Needless to say, many amongst us have already thrown in the towel, seemingly stuck in the fatalistic outlook and got caught with the paralysis-analysis of how to deal with the ‘uncharted territory’ of the coronavirus pandemic. Great leaders accept the challenge and that is to take on an action plan that anticipates the worst and prepares us for it.

Truly, there’s no perfect way to handle this extraordinary situation which, by all indications, is beyond our control. But one thing that the Rajah Travel Corporation showed under the tutelage of Aileen is by refusing to embrace a defeatist attitude. Her leadership provided a strong mindset that treads against the worst-case scenario and that is what Filipino resiliency is all about.

Rajah Travel believes that the pandemic is like a refiner’s fire, for both the industry and Rajah Travel. It’s just another step of the whole process of purifying gold, allowing it to achieve its purest form under the heat of a fire. For Rajah, the past 2 years have presented an opportunity to innovate and improve further. It gave birth to the Travel Academy, a program that is first of its kind in the industry, offering online internship opportunities for tourism and hospitality management students at the comfort of their homes. RTC set up this Remote  Practicum Program to support educators and academe professionals in preparing the future leaders of the tourism industry by letting the aspirants experience the different parts and processes involved in running a travel business.  

The Golden Year Celebration  

The journey that has brought Rajah into its 50 th year is both humbling and something to be proud of. Nevertheless, despite the continued threat of COVID 19, this occasion proved to be worth celebrating because of the collective efforts of Rajah’s local partners, as well as the support of their loyal clients that carried them through all the adversities encountered throughout the years.  

Rajah Travel Corporation will continue to celebrate this feat and gear up to announce its lineup of activities In the celebratory kick-off, big discounts that will welcome the coming of the year of the tiger. Games and raffles are something to watch out for on their social media platforms throughout the year. The game mechanics and the prizes will surely bring out the fun side and competitive side of everyone, even while at home. 

Moreover, Rajah Travel, having been able to adapt already to the new normal and technology of conducting online events, will likewise resume its product launches and its very own annual selling event, the Destination Finder (DF). DF will be ran running for the 3 rd time, on the 3 rd quarter of the year 2022, to help guests plan their trips for the following year, 2023.  

In all of these, is a clear affirmation and commitment that Rajah will continue thriving and will continue to be with you on your journey as you have been with them through the years.  To know more about Rajah and to get assistance for your dream travel with your family or loved loved ones, please contact visit Rajah Travel website at www.rajahtravel.com , email [email protected] . You may also follow Rajah Travel Facebook Page Facebook.com/rajahtravel and Instagram @rajahtravel_com

• Aileen C. Clemente
• Carlson Wagonlit Philippines
• Destination Finder
• Insight Vacations and Contiki
• Jose and Alejandra Clemente
• Philippine Tourism
• Philippines
• Rajah Travel
• Rajah Travel Academy
• Rajah Travel Corporation
• Uniworld Boutique River Cruises
• World Travel and Tourism Council

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Westies: Here’s Where to Spot the Best Chingay Performances in the Heartlands This 2024

Take part in the Chingay festivities right in our heartlands — plus stand a chance to win a 1-night staycation at Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa!

Photo credit: People’s Association

The Chingay Parade started in 1973 to celebrate the Chinese New Year. Since then, it’s evolved into a contemporary celebration of Singapore’s multiculturalism and our strength in diversity.

For those who missed the annual Chingay Parade on 23 and 24 Feb 2024, it doesn’t mean that celebrations are over — the Chingay Parade is coming to the Western heartlands on 9 March 2024 !

Photo credit: Chingay Parade SG

Good news for fellow westies, West Coast GRC and Pioneer SMC are among the five selected areas across Singapore hosting Chingay Heartlands this year. This year’s theme is Blossom , which signifies growth, transformation and flourishing of the community.

Each neighbourhood will showcase an art piece co-created by residents and volunteers. You can also expect an exciting day of festivities — parade floats, multicultural performances, as well as carnival rides and game booths — across six neighbourhoods, namely Ayer Rajah-Gek Poh, Boon Lay, Nanyang, Pioneer, Telok Blangah, and West Coast.

Here’s a breakdown of what you can look forward to:

1) Ayer Rajah – Gek Poh Chingay Carnival

Photo credit: Chingay Parade Singapore

The highlight of the Ayer Rajah-Gek Poh Chingay Carnival — Auspicious Balloon Firecrackers, which signify a prosperous new year ahead! There’ll also be an African drum and cultural dance performance, plus food and games booths.

Ayer Rajah – Gek Poh Chingay Carnival Entrance fee: S$3 Opening hours: 6PM – 8:30PM Address: Open Field opposite Blk 41, Teban Gardens Road, Singapore 600041 ( Google Maps )

2) Boon Lay Chingay Carnival

Head down to Boon Lay Chingay Carnival to enjoy a stunning Projection Light Show at Block 207 Boon Lay Place. The show will trace the origins and evolution of the Boon Lay neighbourhood, featuring iconic landmarks like Savoy Cinema. After the light show, join the community in creating a batik painting piece, let loose on a bouncy castle and indulge in some food and games.

Entrance fee: S$5 Opening hours: 7PM – 9PM Address: Hardcourt in front of Blk 207, Boon Lay Place, opposite Boon Lay Place Market ( Google Maps )

3) Nanyang Chingay Carnival

Nanyang CC is going big for Chingay 2024, with a 6-minute fireworks display! Another carnival highlight is Dragon Prosperity Wall, where residents can pen their wishes. The dragon ball will also light up — a symbol of prosperity, good fortune and community spirit.

Entrance fee: S$5 Opening hours: 7:30PM – 9:45PM Address: Hardcourt in front of Blk 953, Jurong West St 91 ( Google Maps )

4) Telok Blangah Chingay Carnival

The centrepiece of the Telok Blangah Chingay Carnival is the Blossom of Kuehs clay art display. It was co-created by volunteers and residents! There’ll also be a flea market that’s themed around sustainability. If you haven’t caught a lion dance this year, it’s not too late — there’s a dragon and lion dance performance at the carnival!

Entrance fee: S$5 — tickets available at Telok Blangah CC and Dover CC Opening hours: 3PM – 6PM Address: Telok Blangah Community Centre ( Google Maps )

5) West Coast Chingay Carnival

West Coast will be celebrating Chingay Heartlands with a Nine Dragons Diamond Mural Art Painting. It’s made of 3,000 drills (sparkling resin rhinestones) and is the result of a community effort by residents and volunteers. Don’t miss the dragon and lion dance performances there too!

Entrance fee: S$5 Opening hours: 5PM – 7:30PM Address: West Coast Community Centre ( Google Maps )

6) Pioneer Chingay Carnival

The Pioneer Chingay Carnival ‘s main showpiece is called Blossoms of Wishes — a 1.8m-tall wishing tree made from recycled materials like PET bottles and repurposed fairy lights. Pen down your wishes for the new year to hang on the tree! Of course, there’ll be plenty of carnival games and snacks to enjoy. Hop on the bouncy castle, snap a photo with the God of Fortune and watch exciting performances featuring Chinese mask actors!

Entrance fee: S$3 incl. goodie bag Opening hours: 6:30PM – 9:30PM Address: Blk 663E, Jurong West Street 64, Multi-purpose Hall ( Google Maps )

Spot Floats Along a 34km Caravan Route

This year’s Chingay@West Coast GRC and Pioneer SMC also features 11 floats created by the community and local artists! Spot them during a 34km-long caravan procession that winds through West Coast GRC and Pioneer SMC on 9 March 2024.

One of the floats will be a unique community float “Ride the Wind and Waves”, which draws inspiration from pioneers who arrived in Singapore a century ago by vessels — it symbolises our collective journey to overcome difficulties and embrace hope for a brighter future! The float is co-created by artist Song Yan and residents who hand-painted the wooden board decorations themselves.

The heartlands parade will start at Telok Blangah before going to West Coast, Ayer Rajah-Gek Poh, Boon Lay, Pioneer, and end with a finale at Nanyang!

Win a 1-Night Staycay at Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa

Photo credit: Sentosa

Besides the exciting activities lined up, you can also take part in the Snap & Win – Spot The Float Instagram contest on 9 March 2024 and stand to win a 1-Night Staycation at Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa !

Here’s how to enter: 1) Follow these Instagram accounts and look out for the “Add Yours” template on their Instagram Stories on 9 March — @ourayerrajah , @nanyang.constituency , @PioneerConstituency , @MyHomeTelokBlangah 2) Use the uniquely #WestieChingay template to snap and share a photo/video of you and your loved ones with the Chingay Heartlands floats (check the caravan schedule above ) 3) In your Instagram Story, include what you love most about Chingay@West Coast GRC and Pioneer SMC 4) Contest ends on Sunday, 10 March at 11:59PM

The lucky entry with the most creative and engaging story will win the 1-night staycay! The winner will be contacted by @PioneerConstituency via DM on Instagram.

Looking for other exciting things to do in Singapore besides the Chingay Parade in 2024? Check out our list of new deals and attractions in Singapore — updated frequently!

This post is brought to you by the People’s Association .

Follow us on  Facebook ,  Instagram ,  YouTube , and  Telegram  for more travel inspiration!

View this post on Instagram A post shared by The Travel Intern (@thetravelintern)

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We kindly ensure our precious guests that their and our drivers' safety and health is our priority. We guarantee that all our vehicles are cleaned and disinfected with the World Health Organization’s guidelines against COVID-19 (the new coronavirus).

Now, more than ever, we understand your need for total peace of mind. As such, we have informed all our drivers to carry out the following safety and prevention measures.

Prevention & Safety Measures in our vehicles:

Wash your hands regularly (at least 20 seconds duration). Keep a hand sanitiser is always available in the car, both for drivers and passengers. Regularly wipe down the surfaces with wipes or cleaning sprays. Keep the social distancing. Wear a mask and gloves. Change your mask and gloves after serving each one of the guests.

COVID-19 INFORMATION

The PCR test is a must in many countries to take care of safety and comfort while travelling for travellers. The passengers must present their negative PCR test results that were taken no longer than 48. While this makes the safety resume, many travellers may struggle to find test centres or facilities that can deliver the PCR test results in time. Here you can get more information about how to take the PCR test at the airports and your hotel or address. For more information, please click https://www.tranigo.com/en/istanbul/covid-19.

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Krasnodar Airport Transfer

Krasnodar is situated in the Northern Federal District , one of the eight federal regions of Russia. This city was founded by Cossacks with the encouragement of Russian Empress Catherine . For this reason, the old name of the city was Yekaterindor , which means the Present of Katerina . This great city has witnessed many significant events in its long history. Therefore, it is one of the most important historical cities of Russia; the city of Krasnador is known as Red Present in the country. It is also one of the most developed industrial and commercial centres in the region . Located between the Azov Sea and the Black Sea , the city is an important transit point. In addition, the city of Krasnodar is a both historic and modern city with approximately 850.000 inhabitants.

One of the most beautiful cities in the country, Krasnodar is a perfect destination for visitors. It attracts attention throughout the world with historic monuments, splendid castles, excellent museums, art galleries and great cathedrals. This historic city is also known as the Cultural Capital of the North of Russia in public. For culture lovers, the following places are worth-seeing for sure: Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Monument to Kuban Cossacks, Monument Obelisk of the Kuban Cossacks Army, Monument to Catherine the Great, Memorial Arch Kuban Proud of Them, Saint George’s Church, Saint Catherine’s Cathedral, and Saint Elijah Church . Along with these magnificent places, the architecture of the city is well developed. For example, Alexander Arc de Triomphe, Krasnodar Regional Library, Youth Theatre, and Railway Station Krasnodar are among the best architectural structures in the city . The city’s buildings have the perfect combination of modern and historic features.

Krasnodar is also one of the most vibrant cities in the region with lots of choices for entertainment. You can see a great deal of bars and night clubs in almost every street of the city. Joy Night Club, Mark, Bombardir, Bar Dekabrist, and Sky Bar are among the most famous night clubs in the city centre. By the way, the most popular destination for entertainment is Karasunskaya Street.

Known as the Cultural Capital of the North , Krasnodar is home to many different kinds of festivals, such as PhotoVisa Festival,  Krasnodar  Tattoo Festival and   Krasnodar  Music Festival . This vibrant city draws even more and more people during the festivals thanks to interesting activities held there.

In the city centre of Krasnodar, there are many elegant restaurants where you can taste traditional Russian and Caucasian dishes . Blini and Vinegrette are the most famous and delicious dishes of the city. You should definitely taste them. Stan, Borshhberry and the Pech are the most popular restaurants in the city centre.

The city’s lively atmosphere will fascinate you. Explore every corner of this great Russian city. It invites you to a memorable trip. Get ready for fresh experiences in Krasnodar.

Are you planning a trip to Krasnodar? Do you want to know more about Krasnodar? Are you worried and confused about transportation in the city? Well TRANIGO brings a perfect solution for all your travel needs whether it is Krasnodar Pashkovsky Airport Shuttle or Krasnodar Pashkovsky Airport Transfer, Krasnodar Pashkovsky Airport Taxi service to and from Krasnodar Airports. TRANIGO is the answer to all your Krasnodar airport transfer & Airport taxi service needs. Wherever you go, Go with TRANIGO!!!

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A taste of Krasnodar cuppa

Krasnodar's are the oldest tea plants in Russia, and the older the plant, the better the tea it produces. Source: Mikhail Mordasov / RIA Novosti

Guests to the Winter Olympics are probably aware of the region’s unique cuisine, given Sochi’s long history as a port and its proximity to Georgia. But less well known is the area’s unique Krasnodar tea blend. This 150-year-old tea possesses strong healing properties, and its exquisite aroma resembles that of China's elite Lansing teas.


In the 18th century, the Russian and British empires together held a monopoly on the global tea trade. At the time, there were two ways to get to China, the homeland of tea. The sea trade routes passed through British-controlled Nanking, while the overland route, through Kyakhta, led to Russia. Russian tea merchants did not fear competition from the British.

They considered the tea that arrived in Russia far superior to that the British consumed because of the form of transportation. The heat and humidity of the southern seas, which tea clippers would take weeks to cross, ruined the delicate tea leaves.

By contrast, overland transportation only improved tea's qualities. True connoisseurs would pay a higher price for products offered by the Russian importers.


When the British started cultivating tea in India and Ceylon (Sri Lanka), the Russians, too, decided to expand their production base. The first attempts to acclimatize tea plants in what was then the southern fringe of the Russian Empire, in Georgia and Azerbaijan, were made in the 19th century.

The experiment proved a success: the Russian tea plantations yielded their first crops in the early 20th century, although the quality of the local tea blends left much to be desired. The local soils were too inferior to hope for anything better. The only advantage of the Georgian and Azeri teas was their relative cheapness.


Then Judas Koshman entered the scene. A mysterious figure whose early life remains largely unknown, Koshman is believed to have come from a small Jewish settlement in Ukraine to earn his keep working tea plantations in Georgia. 
In the early 20th century, when he was already 60 years old, Koshman found himself in the tiny mountainous settlement of Solokhaul near Sochi.

He used the money saved from working on a tea plantation in Georgia to buy a small plot of land. Koshman and his family started acclimatizing tea plants brought from Georgia. Koshman’s neighbours questioned his endeavour.

In the 1870s, agriculturists had shown that the North Caucasus was too cold for growing tea.

However, it took the tea plants introduced from Georgia just four years to take root to such an extent that they no longer needed to be wrapped for the winter, even though temperatures in Solokhaul may drop to 10 degrees Farenheit in January.

Ten years later, in 1913, the Koshmans celebrated their first yield of tea. What later became known as the Krasnodar tea blend (after the name of the region – Krasnodar Territory) has the sweetness, beautiful dark-amber tint and flowery aroma of the best Chinese Lansing teas.

The harsh North Caucasus climate may affect the size of the crop, but it is thanks to the climate that the local tea contains more healthful substances than the Chinese equivalents.


Recognition did not come easily to Koshman. In his modest house, which has been turned into a museum, there is a vast collection of non-committal replies from the Russian Academy of Sciences: St. Petersburg scholars dismissed Koshman's reports on the Krasnodar tea blend as hoaxes, while the Georgian tea lobby set the police on their potential rival.

Koshman's wife had to bail him out of prison at one point. It was not until the Soviet era, when Koshman was already over 70, that he received a gold medal at an agricultural exhibition.


The hand-picked Koshman House tea is a truly exclusive product. Koshman's are the oldest tea plants in Russia, and the older the plant, the better the tea it produces. Koshman's teas eventually spread across the mountainous area of greater Sochi in the 20th century.

Krasnodar teas were on sale in the Soviet era, but they did not enjoy any particular popularity because the tea leaves were picked mechanically, robbing the tea of its unique properties.

Even during Perestroika, when the once-gigantic Koshman plantation fell into decay, the Krasnodar tea blend retained its reputation as a unique hand-picked product, and continued to be manufactured in small batches.

It remained the northernmost tea in the world until 2012, when the UK gathered its first locally grown crops.

All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta.

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Roza Hutor i Krasnaja Poljana

Još jedan kišni dan je doneo prostor za dublja istraživanja. Sedam u gradski autobus i pravac poslednja stanica Roza Hutor. To je onaj autobus koji sam već spominjao koji ide i na aerodrom, i bilo mi je jasno da je u pitanju ogromna gradska linija. Aerodrom je nekih 40 km od Sočija. A bus ide dalje. Cena karte mi je samo podgrejala sumnju. Gde će ovo da me odvede? Suviše lenj, da bih guglao unapred.

Posle aerodroma, autobus kreće uzbrdo i više se more ne vidi i ogroman venac planina ispred. Tunel. I ualzimo u klimatološko-vegatitvnom smislu u drugi svet. Dobro je niko ne traži pasoš, što će reći da smo još uvek u Rusiji. Svestan kavkaske nestabilnosti, ne mogu reći da mi je svejedno. Ali ne izlazim iz autobusa. Autoput pored reke i idemo uzbrdo. Nalazimo se u zoni gde su održane Olimpijske igre, bar oni sportovi na otvorenom i koji zahtevaju sneg, i tada mi postaje jasno šta je u stvari bilo.

Poslednje od svih naselja je Roza Hutor. Nekih 110 km, od Sočija. Planinski kraj sa vrhovima od preko 2.500m, idealno za zimske Olimpijske igre. Logično je i bilo da kandiduju to mesto. Kvaka je bila u marketingu, kao da smo mi proglasili da su naše Olimpijske Igre bile održane u Splitu ili Dubrovniku, a prećutimo informaciju da su skijaške staze 200km dalje u Sarajevskim planinama.

Najrealnije bi bilo da su nazvali Olimpijada u Krasnoj Poljani – koje je najveće mesto u toj dolini, ali širi kontekst investicije je nadležne jednostavno podestio da se može reći da je Olimpijada u Sočiju. Rečeno-učinjeno!

Pet mesta jedno za drugim, a osim spomenutih vredno pomena je Gazpromneft gorod – ime sve kaže. Sve u svemu desetine hiljada apartmana, hotela, najnoviji i najveći centar zimskog turizma i Rusiji, koji tek počinje da se zahuktava, sa svom potrebnom infrastrukturom, organizacijom i estetikom. Definitivno se nema utisak da si u Rusiji. Ipak slovenska duša vrlo brzo nađe prostor da se pokaže u svoj svojoj veličini.

Dolazim do sistema žičara u Rozi Hutor, kabine koje voze do vrha gde ima dobar restoran, koji mi se učini kao dobra varijanta za popiti kafu na letnjem godišnjem. Naročito sam o tome razmišljao dok sam posmatrao tablu sa meteorološkim informacijama. Vi kako hoćete, ali ja nikad nisam na letnjem godišnjem pio kafu, a da je napolju padao sneg i bilo minus dva.

Međutim, nedostatak turističke koncepcije, nezainteresovanost radnika da objasni, niti na bilo koji drugi način da saznam, me ostavljaju bez najbolje kombinacije. A to je žičara do vrha, ručak u restoranu uračunat u cenu, a posle povratak peške kroz šumu nizbrdo po skijaškim stazama. Nažalost! Ovako su me izbacili na sredini žičare uz komentar da dalje žičara ne radi, tj radila je, ali treba uzeti još jednu kartu – koja je sama po sebi skuplja nego opisana kombinacija u jednom pravcu! – nešto sam ja sa indignacijom odbio.

Nemadoh druge nego sam po kavkaskoj šumi i po kiši da prošetam nadajući se da kavkaski ovčari ne hodaju slobodno, a da su medvedi već pojeli dovoljno ruskih turista i da nisu gladni. Za one koji ne znaju, medved nikad ne napada, osim kad mečka brani mečiće. Tako uplašen i pokisao nalećem na mladi bračni koji se pojavio iz nekog šumarka.

„Dobar dan!“

„Da li mogu s vama dalje da se šetam, strah me?“

„Naravno, i nas je same strah. Odakle ste, lepo govorite ruski?*“

„Iz Srbije!“ – brzo odgovorih da prekratim nepotrebna objašnjenja.

„Izvinite za Borisa Jeljcina. Neće nam se ponoviti! A i Klintonovima smo odbrojali dane.“

Na dalje je razgovor tekao kao da se znamo sto godina. Oni su iz Kirova, to je negde na severu Rusije, rade u naftnom sektoru – jok sadiće banane, i u Rozi Hutor su da iskoriste nekih par dana slobodnih između dve bušotine. Karijerni inženjer i doktorka.

Kafa sa šlagom, keksom i bocom toskanskog vina.

Vrh! U svakom smislu.

Da je moglo, biti pametan pa tada završiti godišnji, no ja hteo da isprobam i ruski voz.

Tačno je svako budala ko je ikad pričao o Rusiji, a nije naglasio ovo što sada sledi. Ljudi, jeste li vi normalni? Jeste li vi ikad videli normalnu zemlju? Da li ste ikad bili u Evropi, da ne kažem sad u Sloveniji ili Hrvatskoj?

„Ruski voz, to je romatika. Ko nije probao ruski voz ne zna šta je lepota zivljenja.“ Floskula do floskule.

Da odmah stavim tačku: Voz je ono što ima u Nemačkoj, Španiji, Francuskoj,Holandiji…

Kakva Rusija ,kakav voz? Vi svi niste normalni.

Dodjem na stanicu, dajte mi jednu kartu do Kransodara. Poče ona sa pitanjima, kušet, ovo-ono, daj ženska glavo, jednu normalnu kartu i da krećem. Dade ona, kada karta jedno tri eura skuplja od one cene koju su mi rekli u Krasnodaru. Ima i numeracija, bilo mi je jasno da tu moram i sesti, nema veze, čekam na platformi, voz kasni 10 minuta, ali na tabli piše da je na vreme ( duša slovenska!) i uđem.

Na ulasku u vagon,gospođa u uniformi, sprovodi do kupea. Kupe liči na normalan, dole sedišta, sa tapacirungom iz ’74, a gore gde mi držimo torbe, kreveti umesto prostora za torbe. Sam sam u kupeu pa me boli uvo za torbu. Voz ide brzo, ali staje veoma često, u skoro svakom mestu, i tu onda stoji, pa stoji, na nekim mestima dvadeset minuta bez nekog vidljivog razloga. Jasno mi postaje kako ide 300 km 6/7 sati. Između stanica ide 100 na sat, ali zato stoji na stanicama toliko da mu je prosečna brzina kretanja oko 50 km/h.

Opušten, ja samo do Kransodara, i mislim se u sebi koja budala ide do Sankt Peterburga – preko 48 sati za nepunih 2.500 km . Malo spavao, malo čitao,proći će. Kad u poslednjoj stanici na moru, ulazi stariji bračni par, ja ioanko sedim u ćošku, ne smetam nikome. Gospođa posle dobar dan, krene nešto da komentariše svom mužiću. Pokuša on meni nešto da objasni, ja koliko sam razumeo objasnim njemu da imam kartu za taj kupe, da sedim na jednom sedištu i da mi nije jasno šta hoće reći. Pozva on domaćicu vagona. Krene objašnjavanje. Oni su kupili karte za donji red sedišta a ja za krevet gore.

Kažem ja da jesam turista, ali nisam glup. Tražio sam normalnu kartu, koju sam platio i koji evrić preko cene koja mi je rečena i šta sad oni tvrde da sedim na pogrešnom mestu? Farbajte vi nekog drugog! Sediš na pogrešnom mestu, to nije sedište idiote turistički nego luksuzni krevet, a ti si platio jeftiniju kartu, i trebaš da ležiš na onom gore krevetu. Nismo se razumeli, nisam tražio kušet kola, nego normalnu kartu i normalno sedište, i neću se pentrati na krevet, hoću da sedim kao normalan čovek. Da bi sedeo trebalo je da kupiš skuplju kartu tj kartu za donji red sedišta, e onda u toj prvoj klasi imaš pravo da sediš ili ležiš na donjim sedištima.

Jeste li vi svi normalni šta pričate? Već i ova karta nije puno jeftinija od aviona, a kamoli da sam još platio koji evrić više, mogao sam biznis klasom leteti. Ne znamo mi ništa, dodade gospođa koja je već krenula da gricka iz pune švercerske torbe – pa sam ja shvatio da ona putuje vozom da bi mogla da izgricka celu švercersku torbu do St Peterburga. Ne postoji drugi racionalni razlog, pošto su oni definitvno platili voznu kartu više od avionske.

Vidi domaćica, da se stvari otimaju kontroli, i preporučenom ponašanju od strane nadležnog proleterskog komiteta, pa me pozva u svoj kupe i ponudi mi da sednem na recimo normalno sedište. Skuva i kafu (koju mi je posle uredno naplatila) i počnemo razgovor. Razgovor koji je meni najviše otvorio oči. Razgovor koji me je spustio sa krasnodarskih naftaških solitera, Sočanskih vila, Olimpijskog glamura i mermera Moskovskih terminala.

„Ajde malo prošetaj da vidiš drugu i treću klasu voza, taman dok skuvam kafu“, reče domaćica.

Strašni sude, u drugoj klasi imaju samo kupei sa krevetima kakvi su bili ona dva na gornjem nivou u mom kupeu, a u trećoj klasi leže na nekim drvenim klupama. Urednost svega, kao i putnici i sve vizuelno je u skladu sa nazivom – druga i treća klasa.Tu je ona cena što su mi bili rekli. Brzo se vratim i pitam kako vi nemate normalne vozove.

„Pa nema normalnijih, to je normalan ruski voz.“ Domaćica je još uvek ljubazna.

Sednem, kafa je na stočiću, srknem da dođem sebi.

„Da li ovakav voz ide transsibirskom?“

„Kvalitetniji i skuplji polasci da. Ostali su u lošijem standardu.“

„To je naša zemlja, mi je volimo, tako živimo i kome se ne sviđa, može da ide gde god hoće.“

„Da li znaš ti da ovi moji ludaci ubiše sa pričom o romatičnim ruskim vozvima, o duši putovanja po Rusiji?“

„To ti je Rusija, a ne Pulmanov hotel i staza Formule 1 u Sočiju. Dobro su ti rekli.“

„Pa oni su svi ludaci, šta je tu romantika? Umesto sat i po, voz ide 6 sati, skuplji od aviona, stoji, gužva, nema normalna sedišta, kasni, ovo ono, ukršta se s nečim u crnoj šumi….“

„Upamti, to je Rusija.“

„Ajd dobro, nek sam to i video, već sam bio počeo da se kolebam da možda EU nije zlatna. Evropo, volim svaki tvoj milimetar.“

„Srkni još koji gutljaj kafe biće ti bolje“, ljubazno se osmehnula domaćica.

„A ti, šta radiš u ovom vagonu?“

„Ja sam domaćica, brinem o bezbednosti, dočekujem i ispraćam putnike, na celoj dužini puta.“

„Hoćeš da kažeš da ti pratiš ovaj vagon i njegove putnike od granice sa Abhazijom do Sankt Peterburga?“

„Pedeset sati, na svakoj stanici staješ ulaziš/izlaziš, služiš…?“

„Kad spavaš?“

„Ima par stanica posle Rostova, kada ima malo veći razmak među stanicama pa mogu malo odspavati u tom kupeu.“

„Kako održavaš higijenu?“

„Tim kuvalom što sam tebi skuvala kafu, zagrejem vodu pa se u toaletu malo operem ispod miške, posle u Sankt Peterburgu ima za nas mogućnost da se sredimo i malo odmorimo.“

„Leti bude vrućina?“

„Plus četrdeset i gužva.“

„Erkondišn?“

„Vi Evropljani ste stvarno rasipni ludaci.“ Široko se nasmejala.

„Koliko dana budeš u S.Peterburgu?“

„Dana? Ti si definitivno lud. Stižemo pre podne tamo, a uveče nazad.“

„Čekaj, radiš puna dva dana i noći, pa onda odmaraš par sati, pa nazad opet isto, dva dana i dve noći?“

„Koliko onda dana budeš slobodna?“

„Naredni dan nastavljam neku drugu turu.“

„Hoćeš reći naredni dan, ideš do Vladivostoka? Deset dana i noći radiš?“

„Ne baš, moja železnička kompanija radi linije samo do Irkutska. Četiri dana i ćetiri noći.“

„Dobro četiri dana do St Peterburga i nazad i još osam do Irkutska i nazad i onda si dva meseca slobodna, zar ne?“

„Ne, onda idem ponovo za St Peterburg.“

„Da li imaš muža, decu, porodicu?“

„Imam. Žive u nekom selu 100km zapadno do Krasnodara.“

„Kad ih viđaš?“

„U zimskom periodu radim u proseku dva meseca, pa budem 10 dana slobodna.“

„Hoćeš reći, da leti radiš više?“

„Naravno, kapaciteti železnice nisu dovoljni i nemamo ljudi, pa leti radimo po tri meseca, a onda budemo nekoliko dana slobodni.“

„To je naša zemlja, mi je volimo, tako živimo i kome se ne sviđa, može da ide gde god hoće.. Mi nikad nismo imali mnogo. Dovoljno je da imam posao, da jedemo i pijemo – predaleko je zapadnjački luksuz od naših očiju.“

„Ajd dobro sad to, ali kakav vam je ovo sistem vozova. Ide sto na sat, a onda čeka po dvadeset minuta na nešto?“

„Mora da čeka, nema između stanica dva koloseka. Prevelika je Ruska železnička infrastruktura da bi bili dupli koloseci. Propuštamo jedan drugog, na drugarskoj osnovi. Svi čekaju po malo.“

„A što su spojeni lokalni, regionalni i vozovi dugih relaciji.“

„Ne pratim te?“

„Na primer u Nemačkoj i mnogim drugim normalnim zemljama, postoje vozovi na duge relacije, pa regionalni, pa lokalni. Ima voz Minhen – Hamburg, koji ide dvesta na sat, i staje na par stanica. Takav voz bi ovu relaciju Abhazija  -St Peterburg cepio za desetak sati. Recimo da bi on stajao u Krasnodaru, Rostovu i jos jedna dve stanice. A onda ako ideš u srednje mesto sedaš u tim glavnim stanicama u regionalni ili lokalni voz, i opet stigneš brže do krajnje destinacije nego ovako. Ne drndaš dugolinijske putnike zbog kratkolinijskih putnika.“

„Nepopravljiv si. Nikad u svojoj istoriji infrastruktura Rusije nije mogla da isprati potrebu sistema i naroda, uvek kaskamo. Treba nam hiljadu novih vozova svake godine, a i uz svo odricanje svih proletera ne uspevamo da napravimo više od petsto, i tako redom 200 godina od kada je izmišljem voz, ili sto od prvog aviona i tako dalje. Preveliki smo.“

„Sestro slatka…“

„Aj priznaj da u nemačkim vozovima i nije tako ukusna kafa, niti si sa ikim razgovarao?“

„Eto vidiš šta je ruska duša?“, osmeh joj je igrao u uglu oka.

„Vidim. To će ujedno i biti zaključak reportaže.“

„A on je: Posetite majku Rusiju!“

„Nije u duhu mog poimanja putovanja i pisanja o istima reći da je majka, a prećutati da je i maćeha živa. Rusija, ili privatan avion ili proleter na uranilovci.“

„Da li ide još nešto uz tvoje reportažice?“, poigrala se kažiprstom i maramom.

„Što se tiče javnosti, ne.“

Iskoristio bih ovu priliku da se zahvalim još jednom svom profesoru ruskog iz Vazduhoplovne gimanazije, pokojnom Miladinu Tomoviću, koji mi je dao i znanja i logike i hrabrosti da krenem u Rusiju sa školskim znanjem jezika. Iako je postojala vremenska distanca od gotovo 23 godine od srednje škole, ostalo je dovoljno znanja za preživeti i uživati. Na par mesta sam se setio najdirektnijih saveta i priča. Uvek je dobro u dubini nepoznate teritorije imati adekvatan citat iz literature kojim se ostvaruje strateški napredak u konverzaciji i kada se iz defanzivne pozicije prelazi u nadvišenje i ofanzivu (Ne napada se uzbrdo – Sun Cu).

Autor putopisa i fotografija je Aleksandar Kuzmanović. Još njegovih tekstova možete pročitati na blogu Vamos Tamos .

2 Komentara

7. novembar 2023.

Aleksandre, hvala Vam na ovoj predivnoj reportazi.

15. novembar 2023.

Postovani, znate Li mozda neku agenciju koja se bavi izdavanjem kuca ili stanova u Krasnodara? Hvala unapred..

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