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Rick Steves on the Return of Travel and Why It Matters

The travel writer and TV personality is back in Europe, planning itineraries for next year. Travel, he says, can help us understand the world. Here’s how he recommends doing it.

By Paige McClanahan

On a recent morning, Rick Steves was wandering around the ancient Tuscan town of Volterra with a new crop of tour guides. His company’s trips to Europe are set to resume in February after a nearly two-year pandemic hiatus, and the guides were midway through a nine-day trip around Italy to learn “what makes a Rick Steves tour a Rick Steves tour.” One of the stops on their itinerary was Volterra, a medieval hilltop town whose stone walls are 800 years old. Mr. Steves — who has been to Tuscany many times for his popular public broadcasting show and YouTube channel — was relishing being back.

“We’re surrounded by the wonders of what we love so much, and it just makes our endorphins do little flip-flops,” he said during a phone interview.

That unabashed enthusiasm has fueled Mr. Steves’s empire of guidebooks, radio shows and TV programs, as well as tours that have taken hundreds of thousands of Americans overseas since he started running them in 1980.

Along the way, Mr. Steves has built a reputation for convincing hesitant Americans to make their first trip abroad — and that first trip is often to Europe, which Mr. Steves has called “the wading pool for world exploration.” But he also speaks passionately about the value of travel to places like El Salvador and Iran, and he’s open about how his time in other countries has shaped his views on issues like world hunger and the legalization of marijuana.

But Europe remains Mr. Steves’s bread and butter, and he’s back on the Continent now — both to prepare for the return of his tours and to work on a six-hour series on European art and architecture that he hopes will be broadcast on U.S. public television next fall. As he wandered through Volterra, we talked about why he doesn’t count the number of countries he’s visited, why his tour company will require vaccinations and why a world without travel would be a more dangerous place.

Our conversation has been lightly edited for clarity and length.

What does it feel like to be back in Europe?

I’m working with 20 guides here and people are almost tearfully emotional about the rekindling of tourism. Professional tour guides have been on hold for two seasons, and they’re just so filled with joy to be able to do what they do, because guides are wired to enthuse and inspire and teach about their culture and their art and their history. And it’s just so fun to be here and be filled with hope. And while we’re still in the pandemic, we’re also coming out of it and there’s an energy in the streets and in the museums.

Do you think Americans are ready to travel overseas again?

I would say it’s not for everybody, but if you don’t mind being well-organized and if you’re enthusiastic about following the regulations and rules, it’s not a big deal. And Europe is ahead of the United States, I believe, in fighting Covid. There’s a huge respect for masks. More museums are requiring reservations to get in because they want to make sure it’s not crowded. It’s kind of a blessing, actually. I was just in the Vatican Museum and really enjoying the Sistine Chapel because it wasn’t so darned crowded. That was an amazing experience for me because the last time I was there, I had to wear shoulder pads.

You have long held that travel can do a lot of good in the world, but what about carbon emissions, overcrowding and other negative effects of travel?

Climate change is a serious problem and tourism contributes a lot to it, but I don’t want to be flight-shamed out of my travels, because I think travel is a powerful force for peace and stability on this planet. So my company has a self-imposed carbon tax of $30 per person we take to Europe. In 2019, we gave $1 million to a portfolio of organizations that are fighting climate change. We gave half that amount in 2020, even though we stopped bringing people to Europe after the pandemic hit. It’s nothing heroic. It’s just the ethical thing to do.

And in terms of other problems, when you go to Europe, you can consume in a way that doesn’t dislocate pensioners and ruin neighborhoods. Landlords anywhere in the world can make more money renting to short-term tourists than long-term local people . So, if you complain that a city is too touristy and you’re staying in an Airbnb — well, you’re part of the problem.

But we would be at a great loss if we stopped traveling, and the world would become a more dangerous place. We need to travel in a “leave only footprints, take only photos” kind of way. What you want to do is bring home the most beautiful souvenir, and that’s a broader perspective and a better understanding of our place on the planet — and then employ that broader perspective as a citizen of a powerful nation like the United States that has a huge impact beyond our borders.

How do you try to encourage people to travel in a meaningful way?

The responsibility of the travel writer is to help people travel smarter, with more experience, and more economically and more efficiently. And everybody has their own idea of what that is, but for me, it’s about remembering that travel is all about people. It’s about getting out of your comfort zone and trying something new. So we’re trying to help Americans travel in a way that’s more experiential and more thought-provoking and more transformational. You know, you can have transformational travel or you can just have a shopping trip and a bucket list.

You’ve said that you don’t keep track of how many countries you’ve visited. Why is that?

Why would you? Is it a contest? Anybody who brags about how many countries they’ve been to — that’s no basis for the value of the travel they’ve done. You could have been to 100 countries and learned nothing, or you can go to Mexico and be a citizen of the planet. I find that there’s no correlation between people who count their countries and people who open their heart and their soul to the cultures they’re in.

I hear you’re working on a big new project. What’s that about?

Something I’ve been preparing to do for 20 years is to collect all the most beautiful art experiences we’ve included in our TV show and weave it together into a six-hour series of European art and architecture. We’ve been working on the show for the last year, and it’s going to be my opus magnum, my big project. It’s going to make art accessible and meaningful to people in a way that I don’t think we’ve seen on TV before. I’m inspired by people who have done art series in the past, and I’ve got a way to look at it through the lens of a traveler. I’m very excited about it. It’s just a cool creative challenge.

What have things been like for your tour company since the pandemic hit?

Well, 2019 was our best year ever. We took 30,000 Americans on about 1,200 different tours and we were just euphoric. We had 2020 essentially sold out when Covid hit, and then we had to cancel everything, so we had to send back 24,000 deposits. We all hunkered down, and I’ve done what I can to keep my staff intact. A couple of months ago, we decided we’re confident about the spring of 2022, so we opened the floodgates and immediately those 24,000 people that had to cancel two years ago — basically, they re-signed up. And now we’ve got 29,000 people signed up out of 30,000 seats for next year.

So we’re doing really good, but we just have to continue the diligence in our society and in Europe of fighting Covid responsibly. So I’m kind of losing patience with anti-vaxxers. Maybe they’re exercising their liberty, but they’re also impacting a lot of other people. So we’ve just decided to require that people have vaccinations to go on our tours. Here in Europe, unvaccinated people would be standing outside most of the time anyway — because they couldn’t get into the restaurants, onto the train, onto the bus or into the museums. The world is getting progressively smaller for people who want to travel but not get a vaccination.

Do you think travel will ever feel normal again?

There were certain people who decided they didn’t want to travel after 9/11 because they didn’t want to deal with security. You know, those people have a pretty low bar for folding up their shop. I got used to the security after 9/11, and I’m getting used to Covid standards now. But I do think that, come next year, we’ll be back to traveling again — and I hope that we’ll all be better for it.

Paige McClanahan is the host of The Better Travel Podcast .

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places list .

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How to Plan, Pack, and Prepare for a Pandemic Trip to Europe

Planning, packing, and preparing for a trip to Europe takes a lot of work. And even more so during a pandemic. I’m back in Europe now, having cleared all of those hurdles. A few months ago, when I began planning my trip, I hoped things would become clearer over time. Instead, the opposite happened. But with a little extra preparation and flexibility, coming to Europe has turned out just fine. And I must say, it feels fantastic to be here.

Here are some details about how I prepared for my first trip back to Europe in two years. Keep in mind that, especially in uncertain times, I’m a “belt-and-suspenders” traveler who tends to overprepare. You may find some of these steps overkill. Even more important, be aware that things are changing fast — including several new restrictions that have come about even since I arrived — so don’t take anything in this post as definitive. The key thing for travelers is to stay informed, double-check official sources as your trip nears, and don’t assume anything. (In fact, while this post originally went up on September 14, it has been updated as of November 1, 2021, to reflect a few new pieces of information.)

I gave myself a few weeks to inventory and pack my travel gear — partly because I was rusty after two years of no European travel, and partly because I’m traveling in a whole new world. This gave me time to brainstorm what I might need and to order some new items (like home test kits and N95 masks) well before departure. Here are some of the “extras” that I brought along for pandemic travel:

Your CDC vaccine card is now right up there with your passport as an essential item for traveling in Europe. I enclosed mine in a form-fitting plastic sleeve, sealed with a zipper, which fits perfectly in my money belt. I also went to a copy shop and asked them to make a double-sided, full-color, laminated photocopy; it took a few minutes and cost less than $5. That’s the “vaccine card” that I keep in my pocket, while the original (in case I’m asked for it) is safely in my money belt. Does this card really work in Europe? Yes. As an experiment, I even went into a pharmacy in Berlin to ask if I could get an official European “green pass,” with a scannable QR code. I was told that, as a non-resident, I wasn’t eligible to get one; my CDC card was all I needed. Sure enough, I’ve found that my laminated copy is accepted everywhere I go in Europe.

Another addition to my luggage were a few home COVID test kits . (File under “Never thought I’d bring that  to Europe.”) These have been approved by the FDA for emergency use and are available over-the-counter; I bought the Abbot BinaxNOW kits . (It’s important to note that these are rapid antigen tests, rather than the more sensitive and accurate PCR tests that are sent to a lab. The at-home tests essentially indicate whether you’re actively contagious, not necessarily if you have small amounts of the virus in your system. Learn more about the difference here .) These can be useful to have in hand. For example, after arriving in Europe and spending three days in the mountains, I was heading into civilization where I’d be seeing several friends. So that morning, I took a test…negative!

While not a 100% guarantee, testing negative gave me peace of mind. And if I start having symptoms, I’ll be glad to be able to test quickly to determine if I need to isolate.

I also packed a second type of home COVID test, which can be used for the mandatory test for returning to the US. There’s more detail on how that works at the end of this post.

I’m also bringing along lots of extra masks . It’s important to note that cloth masks are not accepted in many parts of Europe, which require what they call “FFP2” masks . That’s the European equivalent of a KN95 or N95 — in other words, medical-grade masks. I also saw surgical masks widely used. For the first time since the shortages of early 2020, I found it relatively easy to stock up on some medical-grade N95 masks, which give me peace of mind on the airplane. I find my preferred style ( 3M “Aura” ), with more breathing space and a padded nose bridge (to reduce eyeglasses fog), are particularly comfortable on a nine-hour flight.

Before I was vaccinated, I also wore a face shield on the plane. I brought one along on this trip, just in case, say, the guy seated next to me spent the entire trip coughing. (He didn’t.)

I packed a thermometer and an oximeter . If I’m feeling flushed, a thermometer helps me figure it out if I just got too much sun or actually have a fever. And if I came down with COVID, I’d use the oximeter to track my oxygen levels and determine whether I should seek medical treatment.

And, of course, I brought along loads of disinfectant wipes and hand sanitizer . However, now that I’ve arrived, I’m finding that hand sanitizer is as ubiquitous here as it is back home. (This was not the case even a few years ago, when my European friends would stock up on sanitizer anytime they visited the US.)

Finally, before entering each country, I enable the contact tracing app for that place. Many US states have these; in fact, my Washington State app pinged me  with a possible exposure notification earlier this summer. While it turned out to be OK (it was in a brief, masked situation; I never had any symptoms; and an at-home test came up negative), this was a good reminder that these apps do work and can be useful in alerting you if you’ve been near someone who has tested positive. In an effort to be a good guest, I want to use the local app and make sure that the “Exposure Notifications” on my iPhone menu are set to the country that I’m currently in. This involves downloading and setting up the app for each country (easy to find; or just search “contact tracing app” plus the country; for example, Italy’s has the adorable name “ Immuni “).

Red Tape and Restrictions

Another big hurdle was keeping track of the ever-shifting red tape for Americans going to Europe. Each European country has its own policies, so you’ll need to check details for every place you’re going. My itinerary includes Slovenia, Italy, the Czech Republic, and Germany — so that’s four times the homework, and four times the places I have to constantly check for updates.

Some general trends: First of all, Europe wants travelers who are fully vaccinated. As noted, you’ll need to bring your CDC vaccination card and expect to show it frequently — especially when dining indoors or entering a museum or public transit. (Anecdotally, some countries are more lax about this than others. But be prepared regardless.) You’ll also be asked to show your vaccine card when boarding a flight for the US, or an internal flight within Europe.

Yes, in some cases it’s possible for the unvaccinated to show a recent negative test, or evidence that they have recovered from COVID. However, new restrictions are targeting unvaccinated Americans first and foremost, so being unvaxxed in Europe will only become more challenging. (Several countries now have quarantine requirements for unvaccinated Americans , with more likely to follow.) If you are choosing not to get vaccinated, save yourself some hassle and don’t go to Europe. Or, you know…get vaccinated.

Some countries ask travelers to fill out a passenger locator form , like this one for Italy. Filling this out online took me a few exasperating minutes, and after submitting it, I was sent a confirmation with a QR code. In the end, nobody ever asked me for it. But I was glad I had it, just in case. Later, when I flew from Italy to Prague, I also filled out the Czech form — which was, in fact, checked on arrival at the airport.

One thing very much in flux are the country-by-country requirements for taking a COVID test , typically two or three days before your trip. When I flew from the US to Italy, I was not required to present test results. (I did a home test anyway, for my own peace of mind.) But just a couple of days later, Italy did begin requiring a test — demonstrating how quickly these things can change. Your airline’s website can be a good place to start researching this, as is the embassy in the country you’re visiting.

And, it goes without saying: When visiting a foreign land, follow all rules and guidelines to a T. Be a good guest. You’ll notice that masking compliance is near 100% throughout Europe; don’t be the only chinstrapped clod on the train or cable car.

Mentally Preparing for Travel in Uncertain Times

For my trip, the biggest hurdle was a psychological one — when, several days before departure (in late August), I began hearing rumors that the European Union was planning to remove the United States from its “safe countries” list. It did not help that these rumors were reported both sparsely and sensationally, using phrases like “travel ban.” I checked the news constantly to see exactly what those changes would look like. If something changed while I was in Europe, would I be sent home? Were Americans truly going to be “banned”?

But when the EU guidance was finally was announced, it was far from a “travel ban against Americans.” It was simply an acknowledgement that COVID rates in the US had reached troubling new highs, and advice that EU member countries should re-examine their entry requirements — especially for unvaccinated travelers. Some countries placed new limits on the unvaccinated, and/or introduced testing requirements. And a few — including Sweden, Norway, and Bulgaria — instituted new quarantine requirements even for vaccinated Americans. But most of Europe, including the places I’m visiting, didn’t change much for someone who is vaccinated and willing to test as needed. ( UPDATE: Two months later, vaccinated Americans are still allowed in most parts of Europe. So much for that “travel ban.”)

This was a reminder of the importance of taking the news with a grain of salt. So much information is presented as clickbait, and phrases like “ travel ban ” (or, say, “Europe’s doors are slamming shut” ) generate lots of attention and angst. But travelers need to read beyond those hysterical headlines to understand what’s really happening, and only then re-evaluate how, if at all, it affects their trip. Remember: News outlets are in the business of discovering, isolating, and trumpeting the worst-case scenario rather than the predominant reality.

While Europe is understandably concerned about the USA’s Delta surge, politics are also driving some of these policies. Europeans are very frustrated that, while they opened their borders to Americans early this summer, most Europeans — who live in places which far higher vaccination rates and far lower case rates than the USA — still were not allowed to enter the United States . European threats of a “travel ban” are, at least to some degree, likely a political ploy to encourage the US government to seriously reconsider reciprocity. ( UPDATE: It worked. While I was in Europe, the Biden Administration announced that vaccinated Europeans would be allowed to visit the United States as of November 8. )

Another topic that worries many is this: If you test positive (even asymptomatically) before traveling home to the US, you’ll be required to quarantine and rebook your flight. I’m not going to sugar-coat it: This could happen, and it would be both expensive and inconvenient. (I asked about this at a testing center in Berlin. She said, “If your antigen test comes up positive, you’ll take a free PCR test to make sure it’s not a false positive. If you’re still positive, you are legally required to present yourself to the authorities and quarantine in Germany for two weeks.” Fortunately, after an anxious 10 minutes of imagining this scenario play out in real life, the test results popped up in my email: Negative.)

We all know that breakthrough cases occur, even when vaccinated people are being careful. My wife and I had some serious conversations about this eventuality. And we decided to assume that risk, partly because we believe the risk is quite small. Sure, I have heard of this happening (the clip from CNN at the top of this article does an excellent job of making this “NIGHTMARE” scenario seem both terrifying and a veritable certainty). But even with many of my friends and colleagues now heading to Europe, I don’t know anyone personally who has experienced it. (If it’s happened to you, or someone you know, by all means give us the details in the Comments.)

If you’re risk-averse, or you don’t have the finances or the flexibility to absorb a last-minute change like this one, I wouldn’t blame you for skipping the trip. But in my case, I decided to take a leap of faith. And it turned out just fine.

In general, traveling during COVID requires a willingness to disentangle fear and facts. There are some things to genuinely be fearful about: Delta cases are rising in Europe, so even though I’m vaccinated, I’m scrupulously masking and avoiding crowds. But vague rumors of a blanket “travel ban” against Americans, or the (likely remote) possibility of having to quarantine before coming home, aren’t necessarily worthy of fear.

That said, don’t travel in Europe right now unless you’re willing to change plans on a dime. If Delta rates skyrocket in certain places, there may well come a point where those places say, “Sorry, we don’t want you here.” And at that point, you need to be ready to change plans. ( UPDATE: When I made my plans for this trip, I assumed that I’d have to reroute and rebook things at some point. As it turned out, everything came off exactly according to schedule. But I was still glad to be mentally prepared for the possibility of changes.)

“But what about travel insurance?” I can hear some of you saying. I believe there are two types of people in this world: People who buy travel insurance, and people who don’t. And maybe it’s my privilege speaking — as a hale-and-hearty professional traveler — but I’m not in the habit of buying travel insurance. However, I think it could be a great option for some travelers, and someday I may well regret not taking that step.

One thing I will advise: If you are considering travel insurance, be sure to carefully read and fully understand the fine print about things like what happens if you choose to call off your trip (rather than the trip being cancelled because of new restrictions); or whether a quarantine hotel and flight changes would be covered in case you test positive on the way home. (If I’m being honest, a lack of patience for sorting through those details is the main reason I don’t bother with insurance.) If anyone has any tips about trip insurance, then by all means, fill us in in the Comments.

The Journey (There and Back)

With all of that packing and planning out of the way, my flight to Europe was smooth and uneventful. I was asked for my vaccination card upon check-in at Sea-Tac Airport (and then never again). Otherwise, the trip over was about the same as always; everyone on board masked carefully, and the plane was mostly full. On a tight layover in Amsterdam, I went through passport control (to enter the Schengen zone), but there were no further security or vaccination checks. Same thing on arrival in Venice: No vaccination or other paperwork checks…simply benvenuti in Italia! I picked up my rental car at the airport and was on my way to Slovenia, where the border was entirely unguarded and unchecked.

There were plenty of subtle differences, of course. In airport bathrooms, every other urinal was taped off in a halfhearted social-distancing measure. Nearly all of the entrances and exits at the Venice Airport had been closed, and the flow had been re-routed on a one-way path, so that everyone entered the airport through the same door, and everyone exited through another door. (Take that, COVID!) Aside from minor, idiosyncratic hassles like that one, Europe was still Europe. And it was wonderful to be back…jet lag and all.

Crossing borders within Europe turned out to be less of an ordeal than I expected. Flying from Italy to Prague, I had to show my vaccine card, and I had to fill out a passenger locator form for Czechia before going to the airport (this was checked on arrival in Prague). Before taking the train from Prague to Berlin, I carefully studied requirements for entering Germany and found I didn’t need to do anything in particular, since I had not been in a high-risk place (like the USA) for more than 14 days. Sure enough, upon crossing the border, nobody ever came through the train to check passports or any other paperwork. (I did receive a text message that said, simply, “Please follow the rules on tests/quarantines,” with a link.) Of course, your mileage may vary: Depending on which borders you’re crossing, things could be more complicated. And I have heard, anecdotally, that there can be more restrictions for airports than land crossings. But overall, the parts of Europe I visited felt  fully open.

One last bit of red tape: To travel to the United States, everyone — including American citizens and/or people who are vaccinated — is required to get a negative COVID test within 72 hours of entering the country. There are two basic ways to do this: Go to a pharmacy or testing center; or bring your own at-home test, which must be virtually supervised.

My wife and I tried each approach. She was going home first, and right up until the day before her flight, we were staying in a small village on Italy’s Cinque Terre where getting an official test might have been complicated and time-consuming (likely requiring a train ride into the nearest big town). So instead, we brought along a home test kit  (specifically, this one ) that is approved for entering the US. This works basically like other home test kits, except that you have to call in for a telehealth appointment (included in the price) to have your test supervised.

The entire process took her about 30 minutes: She followed the instructions to download the app on her phone, then initiated a video call with a proctor on her laptop. In just a few minutes, her call was answered and a live person talked her through the test while visually ensuring that she was doing it correctly. After a nasal swab, the proctor set a timer and returned 15 minutes later to verify the result: Negative. Within minutes, a QR code with the result popped up on her phone, which was readily accepted at her airline check-in.

(It’s important to note that these supervised home test kits are not accepted for every use. Carefully read the restrictions for the place you’re visiting to ensure they are eligible. Also extremely important: A home test kit that is not supervised via a telehealth appointment is never accepted for official use. )

A couple of weeks later, it was my turn to fly home. I was leaving from Berlin, where testing is free (i.e., government-subsidized) and abundant; walking around my Berlin neighborhood, I noticed popup  testing centers every few blocks. T wo days before my flight, I stopped by one of these. There was no wait, and I was in and out in a matter of minutes. (The only hitch came when I filled out the online form on my phone and paid the €40 testing fee with a credit card. “Oh no! You didn’t need to do that,” the clerk told me. “The government recently changed the policy. Now the test is free, even for foreigners. I’ll refund your money.”) Ten minutes later, I got an email with my official test result — negative — which I showed when I checked in for my flight.

Once again, I’ll emphasize that each country has their own list of tests that they do and do not accept. Check specifics to determine exactly which types of tests are valid for the place you’re going.

Once You’re There, You’re There.

For some people, this all sounds like too much hassle. And those people should hold off on a trip to Europe until things are more settled. But for those of us who just can’t wait, going to Europe feels far more manageable, and far safer, than we would have dreamed a year ago.

A few years back, on a visit to New Zealand, I was lamenting to a friend who’d moved there about how far away it feels: a fourteen-hour flight from the West Coast of the US! He smiled patiently and said, “Yes. It’s a long trip. But once you’re there, you’re there.”

And that’s how I feel about this trip: Planning and packing was far more complicated than I’m used to. But now that I’m here…I’m here. And it’s wonderful.

If you’re interested in more information, check out this post about what it’s actually like to be traveling around Europe right now. And consider this post , where I weighed the pros and cons of visiting Europe during a pandemic.

106 Replies to “How to Plan, Pack, and Prepare for a Pandemic Trip to Europe”

Thank you for your great info. I’m headed to Egypt in December and your blog helped calm me down about stressing over the tests, etc.

BTW, A few years ago I quit my job and traveled thru Eastern Europe using your wonderful guidebook. You’re my hero.

Quitting your job to travel? YOU are MY hero!

It just hardly seems worth the trouble. I’m willing to wait for another several months to see if things calm down or (unlikely) stabilize.

Fair enough; it’s definitely not for everyone right now. My European friends are speculating things might get more restricted, not less, over the winter (with anticipated spikes in cases). I imagine by next spring/summer, they’ll settle into a more predictable rhythm. Being here right now feels like a “test run” for 2022 travels.

Thank you for all the great details! My husband and I are headed to six countries the first week of December, starting in Italy, ending in Belgium. We have a pack of colored surgical masks, but taking your advice and ordering a 20 pack of the 3M Aura to avoid any potential problems.

I went on a cruise last month and my approved test kit didn’t have any liquid in the vial (it was dry). I was so glad I’d purchased a 2-pack or I’d been in trouble! Now I’m making sure we have extras. Optum Store did send me a replacement kit, but it arrived a couple days after I’d left on my trip. We have an 8-pack of the approved virtual tests, at the ready for this next trip.

I’m just so happy to be going back to Europe!

This article is my lifeblood right now. I’ll be running a tour in Croatia next month, with a transfer in London, and all of the testing requirements, etc. have me more stressed than I’ve ever been before a trip. I noticed your wife used the Binax test to regain entry into the US. Do you happen to know if it’s possible to use those tests with only a mobile phone? I don’t tend to travel with my laptop.

Jennifer, good question. I don’t know for certain whether it’s possible to do the Binax test without a laptop, but I’m pretty sure you need a second device (for example, an iPad). You actually do the test on a device with a fixed camera (like an iPad or a laptop) because they need to monitor the entire thing. Then they send the QR code to your phone when you’re done. Check the Binax website to make sure.

Cameron, similar to Jennifer Bradshaw, I was wondering if you could advise on phone and data service while traveling now. I usually try to limit my costs to a text plan and free WiFi service while at hotels. Do you think that will still work for showing COVID test results at airports (say take a screen shot)? Your article was just what I needed – thank you!

Good question. Sure, a screen shot (taken while online at a Wi-Fi hotspot) is probably a good alternative. They really just want to see the official paperwork/QR code, and a screenshot is just as good as a live web page view–and probably easier to pull up on your phone in a hurry!

I did the Binax test using only my cell phone & it worked fine once I got it propped up & placed where the proctor could see the kit & me.

Yes! I only used my mobile phone for a recent test- worked great. Just download the app :-)

I agree. I’ll stick to North America for now, especially car trips, if it requires this much planning/work to go to Europe.

Writing from Athens, so happy to be back in Europe. Please note that even if you transfer planes in England you will need a PCR test and a completed Passenger Locator form. Several passengers on my flight over did not check on this and missed connections. My CDC vaccination card is as important as my passport at the moment and I have been asked to show it several times. Keeping out the way of crowds, everyone is delighted that tourism is start again and my present hotel, which I have stayed in before, has made use of the slow time to paint and update.

To be clear, just to transit LHR, I will need proof of a negative PCR test ? Wow, that was not my understanding….

I just returned from the UK. You do not need a pcr test if you are in transit. You follow the guidelines of the country where you go through immigration.

I went thru LHR on the way to Santorini in July, and absolutely DID need a test just to transit…and didn’t realize it until I went to check in for the flight. Ran thru O’Hare like a madwoman to the nearest testing site, ran the gauntlet back thru security and the plane had to wait a few minutes for the test results to come through. I do hope that requirement’s been dropped because the staff at LHR was hopelessly understaffed for checking the tests and we had to delay takeoff while the luggage for all those who didn’t make the connection was retrieved from the belly of the plane. I’ve been going to Europe at least twice a year for decades, and that was my most stressful set of connections ever. So you might want to check very carefully.

The rules in UK just changed. I returned one week ago from England after spending a week. The only requirement was a test on Day 2 which had to be pre-arranged before my trip.

Then the departure test required by the airline not the UK gov.

Hi Jill, I read the guidelines on ‘transit’ carefully as I plan to change airports (LHR to Gatwick) and it still isn’t clear to me if I need to take a COVID test upon arriving in London. Does anyone else have experience with ‘transit’ between airports?

I just returned from Athens last week. Heading over to Greece, I had a 2 leg trip that had a layover in London Heathrow. To get my 2 boarding passes in the US, I had to show my completed Passenger Locator Form (PLF) for the UK and negative Covid test and my Greece PLF for my final destination. If you look up the PLF requirements of each country that you will be entering or transiting through, their government will tell you what they require. The UK requires the completed PLF plus proof of the negative test even if you are just transiting like I was. They called it “airside” transit where you don’t go through their customs. Greece required their completed PLF plus either proof of a negative test or your vaccination card. I also flew into different Greek islands on different airlines and they ask for your vaccination card in order to get your boarding pass and one of the airlines also asked to see it when boarding the plane. The vaccination card is really helpful when getting into some buildings too, like museums, indoor dining at some restaurant, etc. To fly home to the US, we found a lab (near Syggrou-Fix metro station) in Athens which processed our PCR test in the same day. Keep in mind, you must make an appointment ahead of time. I made mine one week ahead.

This article was more helpful than any official website I’ve read so far. My husband, daughter and I are going to Berlin where my daughter is running in the marathon. I’m very nervous but will use your information to help guide us. After that we are going to Venice and a few other Italian cities. Thx for the tips on where to get the Covid tests while in Europe too.

Surprised to read that you don’t carry at least medical evacuation insurance. The healthiest person can trip and fall, or wind up in an accident. And while medical care is certainly cheaper in Europe, it’s not necessarily free. The bill when I broke my wrist in Switzerland was a few thousand dollars. Happily I had insurance that covered it, and evacuation insurance that got me home (make sure your evacuation insurance doesn’t just get you to the nearest hospital). I buy mine from Seven Corners, but insuremytrip and squaremouth will compare policies for you.

Good advice. Heaven forbid you have a serious medical emergency and need or want to return to the US. Most insurance policies do not include this “evacuation” benefit and it can cost thousands, sometimes tens of thousands. My personal medical insurance (BCBS), though is does included coverage for overseas medical issues, specifically excludes evacuation unless the US is the “closest available facility.”

And one more note, don’t forget that Medicare covers NOTHING outside the borders of the US.

Again, thanks, Cameron, for this excellent summary.

If you have a Medicare Advantage Plan , some DO cover overseas treatment. Check with your insurer

Some Medigap plans as part of Traditional Medicare reimburse for medical expenses while traveling. My Plan F pays up to $50,000 (lifetime limit)- Plan F is no longer available but possibly another Medigap plan option covers this.

Medigap types C, D, G, M, and N also cover travel outside the US.

We were so grateful to have trip insurance when we went to France a few years ago. I ended up with a serious infection and was hospitalized for three days. I was not cleared to travel home for a week. Our trip insurance paid for my hospitalization, gave a stipend that paid for most of our extended housing plus expenses, paid for the $1,000 medication I required, translated medical documents from French, and assisted us with changing our airline flights. In addition, they were so supportive and helpful during a very stressful time. That policy cost us $120 and saved us thousands of dollars. We will never, ever travel without it again. I suggest working with a travel agent to find the right policy for your needs.

CT – what insurance did you use?

Can you please explain to me why you needed emergency evacuation, just for a broken wrist? Couldn’t you walk? Are we talking evacuation from the Alps or something? Back to the States?

We are talking evacuation back to the US. I was traveling alone, at the start of a six week trip across Europe, and I couldn’t manage with “just” a broken wrist. It was in plaster and not usable.

Evacuation insurance may help with other issues, but the most important aspect is that it will fly your dead body home which can cost thousands of dollars. Thankfully we have never had to use it for that purpose, but as the other gal said it also covers a lot more and for pennies. So, yes, we always purchase travel insurance simply for that reason.

Great article Cameron, thanks! We just got back from Africa (Tanzania, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe) and had a great time. Preventative measures and precautions were much better than in the US, and while the entry part was pretty involved as you describe, once you’re there, you’r there! We actually felt more uncomfortable once we hit O’Hare and precautions went back to US norms again. My wife is in Europe now to hike and bike in Switzerland, Germany and Austria and is having a great time. There does seem to be some confusion about the QR code thing, would be great for travelers and innkeepers alike if this became a more universal standard that could be used by US travelers as well as Europeans.

Thanks for this. Leaving for Italy in a few weeks and trying to cover all the bases regarding Covid. I was curious if you know what would happen if you test positive at a pharmacy or other onsite testing place before the return to the US? Are you allowed to get your stuff at your hotel? Or do the quarantine people come and take you away?

Patti, I have no idea, though I have wondered about this. Honestly, as noted in the article, I think it’s a rare (but not impossible) situation that an American traveler would test positive on the way home to the US. I imagine most test results are delivered later, depending on which kind of test you’re taking, so rather than literally seize you on the spot, they’d just require you to pack up and report for quarantine. Again…I have not talked to anyone who has actually experienced this, so if someone knows about it firsthand, please let us all know.

GREAT article! Most helpful. In the thick of planning for a month in Europe and experiencing your angst re: tests – type, who , how and when… Most bothersome is the travel tracking. Cruising in the middle of this trip- do I put down every port or re- do the form for each of 11 stops? Multiple stops are in Italy and Greece, but the 14 days prior to each port become a sliding scale of sorts. Psyching myself into being prepared and having a GRANDE time. Thanks for your posts! Staying tuned >>>

Seems like most forms are very specific: You need list each country you’ve been to in the last 10 or 14 days. (I just checked the ones for both Czechia and Germany–I’m heading to both places in the next week–and they’re both very clear on this point.) I think you really do need to list each place to be in compliance. But it’s just one more hoop to jump through. Enjoy your trip!

I’ve been in Europe (Scotland, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, and Greece coming up) since July 19. Cameron is spot on. What you have to do and how report it depends on where and how you travel. There was basically nothing needed for crossing an international border into Switzerland and Germany if I travels by Train, but a lot of stuff to do via plane.

Your cruise ship should handle multi-country entry/exit procedures (covid/visa) for you. Just returned from Greece and Turkey (from Valencia — OK, within Shengen is a big help –, but we did nothing in advance of our arrival in Turkey other than comply with ship directions to supply passport and vaccine records. No big deal. Flight transit through Switzerland did require vaccine verification and PLF, but again, easy on-line procedure prior to departure. We backed up all electronic information with paper which made getting through check points much easier. USA requirements are the problem, not so with Europe. Just do your homework in advance.

Thank you for all this valuable information. Everything is more difficult because of the lack of vaccinations in the US and the burden that places on the whole of Europe. With any trip there can be numerous jurisdictions involved (countries, cities, venues, dining, trains, underground, EU etc), all of which are constantly changing. My wife and I travel to Europe for 6-7 weeks each spring usually beginning with a transatlantic cruise from Florida (14 days) and then another 30 days or so following Rick’s guide books to various E locations.

We are scheduled to leave for our next trip on 4-17-22 (the previous three trips have been cancelled). This will involve stops in two Azorean Islands, Cherbourg, France, Bruge and ending in Amsterdam. Five days there, train to Paris (9 days), Chunnel to London (9days), fly home on 5-28-22. Writing this has made me dizzy after reading all the “current” regulations and how it all applies to us. If the trip was to begin in a month we would not be going anywhere despite the fact that most E countries have handled this better than we have. We will be on a holding pattern for 5 more months but need to obviously stay informed and change as needed. This is complicated & stressful. Make me feel better.

Raymond, what will make you feel better is setting foot in Europe again. Yes, there are lots of hurdles and hassles (some real, some imagined) in getting here. But once you’re here, it’s wonderful. Hold your nose, jump through the hoops, and you’ll be glad you came. Also, I wouldn’t worry too much about tracking every little development over the next several months…that will make you crazy, and you don’t even need to worry about the current state of things until it’s much closer to your trip. I imagine that by April things will be more settled than they are now (though there could be a few speed bumps between now and then). Again, I feel like traveling in Europe right now is a test run to get the wrinkles ironed out for a big and busy 2022.

I cant wait to plan our next European trip. Thanks for this information.

What was the covid testing like when entering italy? Did they require airport testing?

I did not have to test (that rule came in just days after I arrived). But as I understand it, it’s a pre-trip thing–take care of it before heading to the airport and bring the results with you.

I’m headed to Venice in a couple of weeks. The US Embassy in Italy has very informative webpage, which is updated regularly, that summarizes the requirements applicable to travelers from the U.S. seeking to enter Italy, and travelers returning to the U.S. The webpage contains links to the website of the Italian Ministry of Health (which can be read in English as well as Italian). Italy now requires BOTH a negative COVID test result AND proof of vaccination in order to enter the country (requiring both is pretty recent). Fortunately, the Italian Ministry of Health will accept results from an antigen test (rapid test) or a PCR test, so long as the test is taken not more than 72 hours before entering the country. Italian authorities will also accept the white CDC card as proof of vaccination. All of this info, and more, is summarized on the Italian Ministry of Health webpage, which I’ve bookmarked and check regularly.

I get medical travel insurance ‘just in case’. An annual plan is not much more than a one trip. I also, when I went to Costa Rica, had ‘Covid’ insurance ad it was required then. I will get it fir my upcoming European trip as well. It was about $40 for ten days. If I had to quarantine, get medical help or whatever, it was covered. Made me and loved ones at home feel better. Thanks for a great article!! It is really different these days

Hi, Deborah — What insurance company did you use?

Curious… name of travel insurance co you utilized that provided COVID quarantine costs.

I’m traveling to Venice from Seattle to begin a cruise in about a month. I will change planes in Frankfurt (I’m flying Lufthansa). My layover in Frankfurt is about three hours. Is there some additional hoop to jump through because of my transit through Germany? I pass through Munich on my way home. I’ve tried to decipher Lufthansa’s web site and ended up more confused than ever!

Speaking from experience, there are no restrictions when transiting at Frankfurt airport. The check in counter for Lufthansa will check your vaccination status and/or Covid tests as well ensure the passenger locator card is completed for the country you are entering.

I looked at Germany’s rules yesterday, and travelers just connecting through airports are (currently) exempt from any COVID related regulations.

I’ll be flying to Florence from Washington, DC 10/20 (fingers crossed) on United. Their website indicates there are no tests needed for the flight through Frankfurt. But a PCR or antigen test is required no more than 72 hours before arrival in Florence. Before arrival is key here. Especially for you since you’re coming from the west coast.

Just returned from Greece through Germany. Munich going over and Frankfurt coming back. Both Lufthansa from and to Seattle. No additional hoops in Germany. Just your immunization card and we needed the Passenger Locator Form for Greece. You only need testing if you are leaving the airport and staying in Germany for any length of time. Transit through Germany is no problem. You do need a KN95 mask to go into the shops in the airports.

Cover yourself and then forget it. Log onto the German government site to find out what you need to do. But, you can easily download a PLF and be prepared to submit vaccine papers for your Frnakfurt layover. Do more than the minimum and you will be covered. Rest easy. It’s not rocket science for anyone other than USA residents.

I am a foreign resident of Prague, Czech Republic and can confirm that you can only have N95/FFP2 masks in Vaclav Havel airport. If you don’t have one there are vending machines you can purchase one from. They will also check to make sure the Passenger Locator form is completed when entering the airport after getting off the plane. If it isn’t, you will be asked to sit down at a computer to fill it out before they allow you to leave the airport. This is a secondary check because the airline should of checked this before you boarded your plane to Prague. Vaccinations are also checked at both the airline check-in and with Customs officers. FYI- All Public Transport in Czech Republic requires N95/FFP2 masks and are monitored regularly with fines imposed. Face coverings are required when shopping indoors just not specifically the N95/FFP2 kind, but it is enforced.

We just returned from three wonderful weeks in Germany, Switzerland, and France. I agree with you! Lots of preplanning, careful packing, and extra red tape but it’s all worth it. We almost did not board the flight because the German health form is a real pain and there was NO mention of it on United’s website. Once you fill it out no one ever looks at it again though. Allow extra time at airports because lines are very long and slow and there are extra checkpoints to get through. If possible get your covid test at a pharmacy (unless you’re in Switzerland, it’s only 25$) because the home proctored test kits have a high failure rate and they want you to buy a backup. The airport test centers are hectic and we saw testing centers at pharmacies everywhere. You may need an appointment and remember they do not open on sundays. And yes if you are not vaccinated, forget about traveling.

Thank you for this. I’ll be flying to Berlin next week to run the marathon and I’ve been more nervous about all the new rules than actually running. Reading this has calmed down my nerves.

I just spent 10 weeks in Berlin. They really have it together there. Download the Luca app for contract tracing at restaurants; most of them require it. Good luck in the race!

Just so you know. My daughter travelled all summer in Europe, but when she prepared to return home her COVID test was positive in Italy. She was vaccinated and asymptomatic which helped. It was a NIGHTMARE. No one would help her and hotels kicked her out. She struggled to even get food because the hotels refused to even help deliver the take out food she ordered to her room. Her travel partner tested negative and had flown out on an earlier flight so she was all alone. We are a family that loves to travel, but travelers should be aware. She had all the supplies you recommended with her.

I took the plunge and went to The Netherlands end of August. We traveled to rural areas to bike ride, stayed off the bus & train at rush hour, and ate outdoors at cafes. It was a lot of planning, but worth it to be back in Europe. I did a supervised video test and admittedly had some anxiety towards the end of the trip about how this would play out. Thankfully, I tested negative. When I got to AMS, there is rapid COVID testing at the airport with no line, so in retrospect, it may have been easier to go that route as I had trouble using the test app and was on hold about 35 minutes initially to start test. I could not find any insurance which would cover COVID quarantine if one traveled to a country the CDC labelled “high risk” like the Netherlands.

All good advice here. I’ve been in Berlin for the last 10 weeks, a week in Greece (Santorini and Athens), and now starting 5+ weeks in Paris. Masking is everywhere, and I have yet to have my CDC card declined as proof (though friends had difficulty getting into the Louvre with it). My experience in Berlin was many restaurants are using the Luca app for contact tracing. You simply scan a QR code at the entrance or table when you sit down, then remember to check out of the app when you leave. I’ve had a wonderful trip so far and the precautions being taken over here have left me not wanting to return home to the Wild West of patchwork regulations. That time will come, though.

One tip for Berlin: You absolutely must hit up the taco truck that is located in the plaza at the Sony Center in Potsdamer Platz. He’s closed on Mondays, but serves up the best tacos that I’ve had in some time, and I’m a native Texan! Go early before he sells out!!

Roger, my husband and I are flying to Paris in a week. Would you mind please sharing more information how your trip to Paris evolved regarding use of the CDC card? We both applied for the pass sanitaire on September 10 but no response yet. My specific question is – where is the CDC card NOT accepted? Many thanks! Julia

Thank you so much for documenting your experience! It’s so very helpful. We hope to get to Europe next summer.

Would you be willing to share what contact tracking apps you used. Searched for info and there appears to be quite a few of them. Not sure which are truly legit. Headed to Germany, Austria and Italy soon and want to be a considerate traveler. Thank you!

i just returned from switzerland [with a dip into france] with my family. things went smoothly, albeit with a lot of extra hoops to jump through. pack your patience and you will be fine. switzerland was more laid back about all things covid, although it was mask indoors everywhere we went. france wanted proof of vaccine just to sit outside at a restaurant, so they were a bit more strict. all in all, we got to do and see 97% of the things we wanted to see-only one covid closure. it was nice to have lighter crowds and shorter wait times. i would say all in all it was a great success!

This article was very helpful. I am scheduled to travel to Venice on one of Rick Steve’s tours next October. I am hoping that things will have calmed down by then. I am 80 years old and will be traveling with a friend of the same age. I am not very computer technical and all of these instructions using one’s phone seems challenging.

Thank you, Cameron! My daughter and I are headed to Italy in 3 weeks and the stress of the ever changing requirements is getting to me a bit. I know it will all be worth it when we’re finally there.

Thank you so much! Great information on the testing and what is available. Hoping to go back to Greece next September.

An acquaintance of mine tested positive before departure from Scotland last week. She had to move out of her hotel, but was able to book into an AirBnB (with a lovely view!) There was no mad fuss about it–just the hotel did not want her there. Food delivery has not been a problem, and she took her laptop along so she’s working from there. Thankfully, she has had no symptoms, so she’s just waiting it out. She did the rapid Binax test with the video supervision. Some have suggested that she should have done another test, PCR, locally to confirm the result in case the first one was a false positive.

We just got back from Iceland. We masked up everywhere (as did most other people). Sometimes it was required and sometimes not. For our peace of mind we did a fair amount of self-catering (staying in little cottages or flats and cooking for ourselves). It minimized restaurant concerns and saved us a little money too.

The test for our return flight to the US was a piece of cake. Their government website, Covid.is, had links to testing sites in Iceland. We went online to make an appointment (about $50 each) at a testing site in Reykjavik for the day before departure. It was literally a 5-min procedure. We walked in, gave our name, got swabbed and left. There was no line. We got the results by email about an hour later.

I’m thankful we went!

I really enjoyed your blog and it gave me a lot to think about as I prepare for my RS Italy VFR trip next September and my upcoming trip to Mexico in November. Not sure if I am ready to travel to Europe right now but I feel better armed with your detailed information. While Mexico standards may be a little different from countries in Europe, your info is a great trip planning guide for my November adventure out of the US. Thanks again and safe travels.

Has anyone been to Ireland or England recently? We’re leaving October 3rd and will be there thirteen days, but thankfully just in those two countries. Just wondering if anyone had any insights or personal experiences.

Thanks, Cameron – excellent summary as of now. For months I’ve been searching for comprehensive information on the ever-changing situation and came to the conclusion: It doesn’t exist. We are a “dual-residency” family with two passports each and still have worried about when and how to test and prep for six trips over the Atlantic this year. My son got married over here, after postponing twice in Germany last year. He also got the US vaccinations in March and was ahead of the game re-entering Germany (he lives there with his US wife). My next flight was postponed twice, once on my own, I wanted to go in August originally, now it’s December, and second time by the airline who changed the day of departure. So you are correct and clear: Expect the unexpected but take the risk. People are friendly and eager to help, contrary of what we read in the media.

What contact tracing app do you recommend downloading?

Each country has its own. For example, the one for Italy is called “Immuni.” Just search for “COVID contact tracing app” plus the country name and it should pop up.

Thanks for the real-time snapshot of current conditions. My husband and I spent 3+ weeks in Croatia in July, before delta was a big concern. We flew Alaska from SFO to Sea-Tac, Condor to Frankfurt, Lufthansa to Zagreb on the way there (on a Condor ticket), return from Dubrovnik on United. Condor and Lufthansa required “medical grade” masks. Our KN95 were accepted, but travelers who only had cloth masks were directed to a shop to purchase approved masks before boarding. After electronically submitting the traveler locater form which Croatia required we received an email confirmation. I printed out the email as well as the completed form, and I’m glad I did – according to the border guard the dorm is SUPPOSED to be electronical linked to your passport, so when they scan your passport they see the locater info, but it doesn’t always work. He insisted on seeing the print out. And our CDC vaccine cards. Testing for the return trip was cheap, quick and easy at a tiny clinic outside of the Dubrovnik old town walls. The trip which we had planned for 2020 included visiting relatives in Germany, a bike tour in Croatia, and a few days in Montenegro for diving. Because each country’s requirements were so fluid, and we were looking at both Schengen and non-shinging countries, we decided to keep it simple this year and only deal with one border crossing and one country’s requirements, so we extended the time in Croatia. Before delta we felt pretty bulletproof with our vaccines, although we were cautious and were respectful guests by following all of the covid rules even when some other locals and travelers were not. We were told in Croatia that had we tested positive for our return, the local authorities would provide a list of approved quarantine facilities (hotels)for us to choose from for our required quarantine stay. I had planned a solo trip to Sicily starting September 16th. With case numbers rising in Sicily and concerns about breakthrough cases with delta, and near constant changes of my itinerary by Alitalia (including some changes that didn’t allow for connections anymore), and LONG wait times to reach an agent each time they made a change, I scrapped that trip and will try again in the spring. Obviously with a different carrier.

Cameron ~ This has been so helpful! You have restored my enthusiasm for our upcoming trip—three weeks in Europe including a river cruise. The last minute additions and requirements have had me concerned (overwhelmed!), but I think I have a handle on it. Certainly your words have helped diminish the doubts and anxiety. You rock!

Thank you, E

Thanks for the reassuring article, Cameron. We are heading to France again for the winter, and we understand the stress of preparation and the “ahhhh” of just being there! I recently helped six friends who are on a French self-guided barge trip to apply for and obtain the passe sanitaire. Even though the CDC card is accepted, the QR code format of the passe sanitaire adds an extra level of ease, and French friends say it is accepted throughout the EU. It’s all about doing the prep work to make the stay easy and enjoyable.

Cameron, this is super helpful information. My sister and I are headed to Italy for our *first ever* trip to Europe next May/June. We’re planning to fly into Naples as we want to spend some time on the Amalfi Coast. Lodging in Naples via VRBO or Air BnB’s do indicate that it’s a noisy city. Our tentative reservations host has confirmed that. Any suggestions for a place further out from the city center that might be quiet-er? Thank you very much.

I love Naples, but there’s definitely risk of noise. That said, there are certainly some quiet accommodations even in downtown Naples. I would very carefully search reviews on Airbnb/VRBO specifically for noise; as a light sleeper, I do this wherever I go, and I usually can find something sleepable. If you are looking for a more sedate home base than Naples, Sorrento is a very popular alternative–it’s quite a ways out but a bit easier to grapple with. Never having been to Europe, diving right into Naples may be a bit intense; especially if the Amalfi Coast is your real target, Sorrento might be the right place for you.

Do you know if the authorities in Paris provide the names of hotels that will accommodate you if you test positive for covid prior to leaving?

Cameron…my family of 3 is on the fence about booking a trip to Germany for December. So many unknowns about what could happen between now and then. Will the Christmas markets even be happening, will the EU still be allowing US visitors? Should we just book it now and hope for the best or wait until last minute and hope to find lodging/flights etc?

Wow, that’s a decision only you can make. While things are OK now, and I suspect they’ll be OK next spring, some Europeans are anticipating the likelihood of a winter surge that could cause some speed bumps for travelers. There’s no way at all to predict this. If you’re confident about wanting to go–assuming you can–maybe the best thing is to book flights and accommodations that are refundable, then make the final decision as the date approaches. For example, my wife and I found that, flying on Delta, we could pay $100 extra, per person each way, to make our flights fully refundable for any reason–that was well worth it, considering the uncertainty. I would be wary about putting down nonrefundable money on a December trip right now, but that’s your call.

Hi Cameron,

I’m wondering if you happen to know if the restrictions/testing differ for unvaccinated kids? My husband and I are fully vaccinated, but my kids aren’t old enough to be eligible. We’re thinking about a trip in summer of 2022, but curious if we’d be doing the vaccinated and unvaccinated requirements, even though they are younger. Your posts have come right when we were trying to think about these things, so thank you for your insights!

Hello! Thank you for this really informative and useful article but I have a couple of questions. I’ve found a lot of this information confusing. Are they saying only the vaccinated tourists can enter certain European countries, or is it just that the vaccine makes travel easier? Can you still go to France, Spain, Germany etc. with just a negative PCR test or is the vaccine a must?

It varies country by country; just look up the US Embassy page for the country you are visiting. But in short, some countries are indeed making it very difficult for unvaccinated Americans to travel here–either barring them entirely, or requiring cumbersome quarantine periods. And even in places where the unvaccinated are technically allowed, doing certain activities (including entering restaurants or museums) will require constant testing. In short, if you are not vaccinated, traveling in Europe will be a big headache for quite some time to come. Either get vaccinated, or don’t go.

Great article! We have a trip planned for November and are still on the fence. I’ve seen so much contradicting information on requirements and find it incredibly difficult to decipher some of these websites. We fly into LHR, stay 7 nights, then take the train to Brussels for 3 nights, and then Paris for 4 nights before returning to London for 1 last night. Is there any easy way to figure out what we need to do? I know we will test 72 hours before our arrival at LHR, then again on day 2, and 72 hours before returning back to the US. But I’m not sure about entering Belgium after 7 days in the UK, and re-entering the UK after 4 days in France. We’re pretty travel savvy, but I feel lost.

Hi! Thank you for this really informative and useful article but I have a couple of questions. I’ve found a lot of this information confusing. Are they saying only the vaccinated tourists can enter certain European countries, or is it just that the vaccine makes travel easier? Can you still go to France, Spain, Germany etc. with just a negative PCR test or is the vaccine a must?

Great article we leave on 10/28 for Greece, Southern Italy and Southern Portugal for 3 months. We booked the tickets in June when everything looked great and have been worried we’d get prevented from going. We want to see how bad winter is because we are considering becoming residents for a few years.

You asked about travel insurance, we are in our 60s and we have an annual policy through Allianz. The cost is $465 a year for both of us and it covers COVID medical expenses. It covers unlimited trips anywhere in the world. The only limit is no trip can be longer than 90 day. We think it’s a bargain.

I’m flying into Heathrow October 5. I’ve booked Day 2 test upon arrival at Heathrow. Now, according to the new updates on travel to the UK, as of October 4, fit-to-fly pre-tests will no longer be required of fully vaccinated people flying from amber countries. My friend, who is flying to the UK a week later, thinks I’m mad to believe that the new regulations regarding pre-testing will ACTUALLY be in effect by the 5th, and that I need to get a pre-test “just in case.” I think she’s mad for thinking the announced changes won’t actually go into effect when the government says they will. I generally carry caution in abundance, but I think she’s wrong in this case. What do you think?

Thanks for the great report Cameron! We will be traveling to Italy in November. Can you confirm that the Abbott/Binax test is valid in Italy?

Thank you for your great reports! We are leaving for Portugal in 2 days. We tested yesterday, 71 and 3/4 hours away from out first flight. We were tested again at another location a half an hour later and then again at 8 am this morning. We were concerned about getting the results back in time or possibly having an inconclusive result! A little compulsive but we felt better doing it. Got the first result in less than 24 hours and the second in 26 hours, all negative did so we are a go! Very excited as we haven’t traveled since January of 2020.

Think about a Portugal EV wine tour to the Douro Valley with Sergio. An unbelievable treat. Portugal was welcoming and wonderful. Went w/son Ian 4-17 Sept.

Cameron, your list is complete and exhaustive. I just returned from nine days in Iceland and found that having a mask and my CDC card was just fine. Iceland is more than 84% vaccinated and almost no one wore a mask but mid week, I learned that cases were increasing so I wore my mask again in public. Of course I needed to COVID test pre-travel ($90 here in Portland Oregon), and needed to test again in Reykjavik prior to my return to the USA. Cost for that test was 0 (thanks to universal healthcare in Iceland).

Traveling in Covid times required lots of extra steps but I would not have missed that trip for the world. So happy I went to see the beautiful country, having been sidelined for over two years from my international travel. Wishing you a happy time in Europe and safe travels!

We traveled in France, Switzerland, Austria and Germany from Sep 9 to Oct 16. Our experience was similar to yours. Our only problem was in Switzerland. They stopped accepting our CDC vaccine to eat inside restaurant or to stay in hotels. They would only accept a negative Covid test that was done in Switzerland. The changing rules were the issue. France, Germany, and Austria were were easy and very assuring that we were safe. BTW: We visited the Louvre—I was able to get an entrance time at 10:00 at 9:00 the same morning. What a joy and light crowds.

My son is going to Berlin in a couple weeks. He has a picture of his vaccination card, but has misplaced the card. Do you know if places (including the flight) will accept the digital photo? Thanks!

We just returned from two weeks in Italy, France, and Spain. Our experience was that when status was being checked they required either the “EU” app certification on phone, etc., or PAPER – both ID and vaccination certification. I was able to use a photo of my passport except I was hassled slightly and lectured by a policeman in Monaco. The official concern is to prevent the use of counterfeit certifications.

Hi Cameron, Sorry if this has been asked and answered above, but are both N95 and KN95 masks accepted in Europe? I am particularly interested in Germany and Spain. And when buying an FFP2 mask, what are the qualities/approvals one should look for? Thanks!

My fully-vaccinated husband and I were all set to go on a Viking river cruise in July which had already been rescheduled, twice, because of the pandemic. We took the COVID test two days before departure and tested positive. Everything came to a screeching halt. Thankfully, we did have travel insurance and got back every penny within a month. It was definitely worth it. We put the payment down on a reschedule for next year. Our symptoms were mild and now we have natural antibodies. We always book hotels with free cancellation.

Really appreciated this article. I have had my trip to London booked since April. And it has indeed been a roller coaster. One of constantly watching the ebb and flow of restrictions, them being lifted, and coordinating the required testing. The only thing that I am hesitant about concerning my trip. Is whether or not I should attend the 3 West End shows that I have booked. I am unclear whether the theatres require the audience to wear masks or not, and it is relatively tight quarters. Has anyone experienced the theatre in London since the pandemic and them reopening?

Very thorough & helpful article! Thank you! I cannot wait to get back to Europe. Next year is looking promising. Of course I will check for updates, but I will also refer to this article for guidance.

We spent 3 weeks in Greece in September & our experience was much like yours. Honestly, because everyone wears masks indoors, we felt safer in Greece than at home in Texas. Being prepared to change plans & alter our itinerary was also a key part of our planning. We did by medical insurance including evacuation coverage with a pandemic inclusion but not cancellation insurance. Like most insurance, we just wanted protection from a catastrophic event.

Wondering how challenging it will be to travel in Europe now without a smartphone? I don’t use one on in the US and have traveled to Europe regularly for 20+ years w/o need for one but… wondering if for both health/safety and regulatory reasons it will be necessary now to have one. I will be returning to places I know well, covering among other concerts at a music festival so thinking that track and trace will apply and alerts may occur. Your thoughts on this would be welcome.

Hm, Kerry, that’s an interesting question. It’s hard for me to imagine traveling in Europe without a smartphone. I imagine it’s possible, but especially these days, you’ll need frequent access to a printer in order to print out various test results, passenger locator forms when crossing borders, etc. Contact-tracing apps currently do not seem to be required in most places, but I imagine that could change if cases skyrocket. You could probably chance it without a smartphone but you may encounter some bumps..just be flexible and prepared for that to happen.

Son Ian and I spent 2 VACCINATED, wonderful, unforgettable, amazing weeks in Portugal 4-17 September ’21. Our Covid vax cards were airport examined once and shown 1 other time unsolicited as we were to board a plane in Porto to the Algarve. We took Binax self tests and checked ourselves before we went to the Lisboa airport for rapid tests 2 days before USA return (our TAP tix allowed a minor 21 Euro charge & produced negative results before we finished our airport lunch). A negative test (examined upon stadium entry) was necessary for our Champions League soccer game in Lisboa. We enjoyed many outdoor meals and masked near crowds and inside venues. As Cameron wrote and as we experienced–everyone, yes, universally, everyone on all transits was masked. Prepare and go respectfully to Portugal !

I just returned from a month in Croatia, Sicily, and near Milan. Don’t let Covid testing discourage you from traveling to many European countries. Testing is readily available there. Our tour guide in Croatia arranged for testing for travelers in the group. I used Rick Steves travel forum before I left home so I knew I could get tested at the Zagreb airport before flying on to Italy. Before heading home to the U.S., I got tested for 15 Euro at a pharmacy in Milan I happened to walk by. Only one person ahead of me. Results were quick. This was also encouraged by a traveler in Rick Steves forum. In addition, testing was done at Milan Linate airport according to online research but I couldn’t find a price. I also bought an Ellume rapid test before leaving home and took it along. But just before I left the U.S., CVS emailed me that some lot numbers were producing false positives. While in Milan, I found that my lot number was a bad one, so I didn’t use it and will return for a $39 refund. I’m glad I stopped at that pharmacy in Milan. Saved me money and time at the Milan Linate airport before my flight home.

We were in Brittany in August and loved being there even though the paperwork for our connection through Heathrow was a little challenging. We are more concerned about a Med cruise in April. Our plan was to recover from jet lag (10 hour flight) with a night in London before flying on to Barcelona. Then spending two nights in London on our way back from the cruise. I know it’s useless to begin worrying about Covid issues now but it still takes a little of the fun out of the planning.

This was so helpful. I am taking my granddaughter to Paris for a bucket-list trip and so far have everything that you have suggested.

Thank you, Cameron. My husband and I are on a Rick Steves Tuscany tour in May and all the “travel scare talk” has been a bit much. I now know this will be another positive experience for us…thanks!

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Travel expert Rick Steves encourages tourists to visit some of Europe's second-tier cities

While London, Paris and Rome may top the list for the majority of visitors to Europe, you may want to rethink your plans.

Travel expert Rick Steves encourages travelers to visit the continents’ second tier cities, which include Antwerp, Glasgow, Hamburg and Marseilles.

Support 89.7 NPR News and receive special thank you gifts, including Rick Steves' travel package.

• Rick Steves, travel writer, radio host and personality

If you have a disability and would like a transcript or other accommodation you can request an alternative format .

Rick Steves’s Advice for Vacationers in Europe This Summer

The TV host and travel guide reflects on how travel has—and hasn’t—changed since COVID.

When the Washington State–based travel guide and TV host Rick Steves decided to return to Europe in early 2022, he wasn’t sure how many of his favorite local spots had survived two years of pandemic life. Steves, who has hosted Rick Steves’ Europe for the past two decades and operates tours aimed at introducing American travelers to the continent, was pleasantly surprised by what he found: Many of his beloved places—the kind of mom-and-pop places that have been owned by the same families for generations—had made it through, and the streets were alive anew. “They’re kissing cheeks with a vengeance in Paris right now,” he told me. “And I’m really thankful for that.”

Steves and I caught up to discuss the rebound in tourism and how travel has changed since the start of the pandemic. He also warned that this summer may be a particularly busy one—perhaps the continent’s busiest yet—and offered practical tips for traveling amid crowds. (Consider heading to less-popular destinations, and don’t bother checking a bag!)

Our conversation has been condensed and edited for clarity.

Caroline Mimbs Nyce: Is COVID the biggest challenge that you’ve been thrown in your career?

Rick Steves: With every terrible event that stops travel for a little while, the demand does not dissipate; it just backs up. And then, when the coast is clear, all of those travel dreams are dusted off, and people turn them into reality.

In the course of my career, we’ve been through many tragic disruptions, but they didn’t really stop people from traveling. But for COVID, we were out of business. I had 100 people on my payroll and no revenue for two years. And that’s really tough to get through. Everybody in tourism is really thankful to get back at it. Guides are tearful on the bus after they’ve had a chance to give their historic walk to ancient Rome or through the back streets of Venice.

Read: For one glorious summer, Americans will vacation like the French

Nyce: There’s always the big, philosophical question of “Why do we travel?” Did the answer change for you during the pandemic?

Steves: If we travel, we are better connected with other nations, and the family of nations can work more constructively together. And to me, that means all of us are individual ambassadors—individual forces for peace. When we travel, we get to know each other better. We humanize people that we don’t otherwise understand.

Nyce: We most often associate travel with leisure, but you’re making a geopolitical case for it.

Steves: Well, if you want a rationale for why: I’m feeling very serious about climate change lately. When people travel, they contribute to climate change. A thoughtful traveler—an ethical traveler coming out of COVID—can reduce the toll of travel by paying for their carbon .

Nyce: Do you have any other tips for the ethical traveler of 2023?

Steves: Recognize that we have sort of a herd mentality when it comes to travel these days.

Nyce: The Instagram effect.

Steves: Exactly. It’s Instagram, crowdsourcing, and Tripadvisor. When I started my work, there was not enough information. Now there’s too much information. As consumers, we need to be smart and know where our information is coming from. Who’s writing this, what’s their experience, and on what basis do they say this is the best hot chocolate in Paris? People say, “Oh, this hot chocolate’s to die for.” It’s their first time in Paris, and they think they know where the best hot chocolate is.

Also, the crowds are going to be a huge problem. Just like in the United States, it’s hard for restaurants to staff the restaurants and for airlines to staff the planes. That means you need to double-confirm hours and admission. You need to anticipate chaos in the airports. Book yourself a little extra time between connections, and carry on your bag.

Another thing is that museums and popular cultural attractions learned the beauty of controlling crowds by requiring online booking. At a lot of sites, you can’t even buy a ticket at the door anymore.

Everybody goes to the same handful of sites. If you just go to those sites, you’re going to have a trip that is shaped by crowds. Or you can break free from that and realize that you can study the options and choose sites that are best for you. You can go to alternative places that have that edge and that joy and that creative kind of love of life. “ Second cities ,” I call them.

Rick Steves: I’m traveling, even though I’m stuck at home

Nyce: How much have you had to update your guidebooks since COVID? Are there favorite spots of yours that have closed because of the economic ramifications of lockdowns?

Steves: In 2019, we were euphoric about how well our guidebooks were doing. Everything was up to date. And then, of course, COVID hit, and everything was mothballed for two years.

In early 2022, we decided to go back and research . The things that distinguish a Rick Steves guidebook are all of the little mom-and-pop places. And I was really, really scared that these were going to be the casualties of two years of no business.

The great news is, by and large, all those little mom-and-pops survived. There were very few closures. There were lots of changes with bigger companies and places that just focus on tourists. But our local favorites—the little bed-and-breakfasts and bistros—they survived. They’re mission-driven. They’ve been in the same family for generations. They just trimmed sales, hunkered down, and got through this. Last year, they were back in business, and this year, they expect to be making a profit again. We’ve cleaned out the places that did close.

Nyce: What have you noticed about the post-COVID tourism rebound?

Steves: First of all, we’re not done with COVID. We don’t know what curveballs COVID is going to throw at us in the coming year. Last year, we took 25,000 people to Europe on our Rick Steves bus tours, on 40 different itineraries all over Europe. Four percent of our travelers tested positive for COVID on the road. None of them, as far as I know, went to the hospital.

I can’t say what’s safe for you or some other traveler, but I can say that if you’re comfortable traveling around the United States, you should be comfortable doing the same thing in Europe or overseas. It’s a personal thing, how much risk vis-à-vis COVID you want to take. And it’s an ethical issue for travelers: If you’ve got COVID, do you isolate yourself, or do you put on a mask and keep on traveling? I think the ethical thing to do is not expose other people, hunker down, and self-isolate.

We’re meeting with our guides each month, and we’re making our protocols in an ever-changing COVID world for that coming month. It was workable last year, and I think it’s going to be better this year.

Nyce: You sound pretty optimistic about the recovery of the industry. I wasn’t sure from when I got on the phone with you if you were going to say, “It’s forever scarred. Europe is a different continent.”

Steves: Oh, no. I measure the health of Europe, from a travel point of view, by the energy in the streets. In Madrid, the paseo is still the paseo. You’ll still enjoy the tapas scene, going from bar to bar, eating ugly things on toothpicks, and washing it down with local wine with the local crowd. In Italy, it’s the passeggiata — everybody’s out strolling. People are going to be busy on the piazzas licking their gelato. In Munich, they’re sliding on the benches in the beer halls, and clinking their big glasses and singing, just like before.

People said, “No one is going to be kissing cheeks in Paris, because everybody’s going to be so worried about germs.” They’re kissing cheeks with a vengeance in Paris right now, because they have survived COVID. And I’m really thankful for that.

clock This article was published more than  2 years ago

Rick Steves looks to the future after an 18-month hiatus from European travel

Since the Nixon era, Rick Steves has spent about 100 days out of each year in Europe. Between last March and this September, he logged zero minutes abroad, though Europe was always on his mind. While hunkering down in his home north of Seattle, the travel expert and multimedia personality created public television shows and hosted virtual events about a world nearly 5,000 miles away. In June, traditionally the beginning of the high tourist season, he started accepting reservations for tours departing the following year. Travelers moved fast, snapping up 95 percent of nearly 31,000 spots on about 1,100 group tours running February through December. As for Steves, he finally crossed the Atlantic 18 months after the shutdown and is quickly making up for lost time: This fall, he hiked the Alps and dropped in on Paris and then returned five weeks later to lead new guides through Italy and to film in Rome, Florence and Athens. His tally for the last quarter of 2021: 30 days.

We caught up with Steves while he was at home in Edmonds, Wash., to discuss his recent forays in Europe; his approach to keeping his staff and guests safe, especially as we face omicron, a new variant that was identified a week after our initial conversation; and whether his trademark optimism is running high for 2022. (The interview has been edited for length and clarity.)

Q: How did the pandemic affect your tour operation?

A: It’s been a challenging time for anybody in the tourism industry. We came off our best year ever in 2019. On the eve of the pandemic shutdown, we had our annual tour guide summit. I had 100 tour guides in my living room, celebrating how we were all ready to go for 2020. We broke from that annual huddle and everybody flew back to their hometowns in Europe. Two weeks later, we realized that we were going to have to cancel our entire season for 2020. But our mantra was, “The pandemic can derail our travel plans, but it cannot stop our travel dreams.”

A reluctant visitor discovers the unhurried charm of Brittany

Q: How did you occupy yourself during the shutdown?

A: I’ve been very busy during the downtime, writing and producing. I produced a TV show called “ Why We Travel ,” a love note to travel. It’s a timely topic because it talks about the value of travel as we go forward after covid.

My priorities were taking care of my staff and our community. We created the Rick Steves’ Volunteer Corps. My employees use their paid time at food banks and senior centers and to help clean up parks. During the pandemic, there is a lot of need in our community.

Q: You waited longer than many others in the industry to travel internationally. Why?

A: For a long time, “patience” was my middle name. It’s not an American forte, and it certainly isn’t Rick Steves’s forte, but for a year and a half, I was being very conservative about travel. I thought that before the vaccinations, we should not be traveling. We should be staying safe, staying healthy and looking after our loved ones and neighbors.

Q: What developments or conditions eased your concerns about traveling abroad?

A: It was still premature to start group travel, but I wanted to go over there and see what it was like. I felt that in Europe, it was an ever-smaller world for people who were not getting vaccinated. Everywhere I went, it seemed like there were safeguards keeping unvaccinated people away from [vaccinated people].

Q: Tell us about your long-awaited return to Europe.

A: The first trip was a vacation. I wanted to hike around Mont Blanc with my girlfriend. It was six days, with 10 miles of hiking each day. We had sherpa service that shuttled our bags from one mountain hotel to the next. Then we went to Paris. I wanted to see what it was like from a covid point of view and how things were surviving. Several weeks later, I went back for a 20-day work trip. I wanted to do a guides mentoring tour. [The group, led by Steves, followed his nine-day Heart of Italy itinerary.] We have 100 guides in Europe. They are all professional guides, but I wanted them to know exactly what distinguished a Rick Steves tour.

Q: Based on your experience, how has Europe fared during the pandemic?

A: I was worried that we were going to be raking away the corpses of businesses that had died during the pandemic. But I happily discovered that almost all of them have survived. The other thing I noticed is that the ambiance of Europe, the passeggiata [Italy’s traditional evening walk], the energy on the streets, the cafe scene — they are just like they were before. The love of life is vibrant in Europe.

Q: Did you see many Americans during your travels?

A: Half the people hiking around Mont Blanc were Americans, and they were filled with joy. Half the people I met while I was waiting in line to see the Pantheon [in Rome] were Americans, and they were having the time of their life. Half the people I met at the top of the Acropolis [in Athens] were Americans, and they were having a great time. The smiles on their faces didn’t say covid; they said we’re living, we’re traveling.

Q: How are the countries you visited keeping their residents and tourists safe?

A: If you go to a museum, you wear a mask. If you go to a restaurant, you show your CDC card, and you know that everybody in there has their vaccination. I was pretty impressed.

Q: In addition to proof of vaccination, what other documents do Americans need to visit Europe?

A: To get to Europe and fly home from Europe, you generally need to have a negative coronavirus test. People wonder how they get their test in Europe. It’s easy: Just ask at the hotel desk. Some countries also have a passenger locator form. I pooh-poohed it and the airline asked for my passenger locator form and I hadn’t completed it. So I had to stand aside at check-in and fill it out. I could have missed my flight. Before you leave for the airport, go online and fill it out.

Looking to dodge Amsterdam’s crowds? There are three remarkable towns a short train ride away.

Q: Will you make any adjustments to your tours to conform to local rules and to ensure the overall safety of your staff and guests?

A: We decided about a month ago that everybody on our tours — the bus drivers, the tour guides and the participants — must be vaccinated. I don’t want to take people to Europe and have them standing out in the street while we go inside and have a good dinner. You cannot function efficiently in Europe without having your vaccination.

We did the guides mentoring tour in part to see what it’s like and what’s required during the pandemic. We can’t take 25 people into a lot of the museums together. We can get their tickets and turn them loose in the museum or we can go in with two smaller groups. We will have people spread apart more at restaurants. That’s just common sense. I think 50 people in a 50-seat bus would be tough. We have 25 people on a 50-seat bus, and we will be social distancing and wearing masks if the pandemic persists. We will have the comfort of knowing that everybody in our travel bubble is vaccinated and is wearing their masks and washing their hands.

Q: Any upsides to the slowdown in travel and capacity limits?

A: You used to crowd into the Pantheon and it was a mosh pit. Now you line up, show your CDC card, get your temperature taken and see the Pantheon without the crowds. I was in the Sistine Chapel [in Vatican City]. Usually it’s put on your shoulder pads and get ready to shuffle. Now it’s not so crowded. I have not enjoyed the Sistine Chapel like that in more than a decade. You don’t have the masses of tour buses from emerging economies. That takes a lot of pressure off key sites.

Q: Many countries, such as Germany, Belgium and Austria, are experiencing a rise in cases and are implementing stricter measures. A new variant called omicron has also surfaced. Will this affect your trips next year?

A: Exactly what the situation is going to be come spring of 2022, nobody knows. It’s a long ways away in pandemic time. We will assess closer to the departure dates.

Q: Do you plan to resume your heavy travel schedule for your various projects?

A: I am scheduled to go to 10 cities over 30 days in April. I am really excited to go back and make sure all of our guidebooks are up to date, and I am really excited to continue filming over there.

Q: Any advice for travelers considering a trip to Europe?

A: I think there’s a lot of anxiety and misunderstanding about what it takes to travel in Europe and what it’s like over there. On my first trip back, I was nervous. I am so thankful that I didn’t succumb to the nervousness and bail. So often you hear about things and worry takes over, but once you get over there, you think, “I am glad that I had the gumption to make this travel dream happen.”

Q: Do you feel cautiously optimistic about group travel to Europe returning in 2022?

A: I don’t want my trademark positivity to be a mask for recklessness or impatience. I think it is a stumbling progress, but we are making progress. At this point, I am still confident that we will be traveling in Europe next spring.

More from Travel:

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In the Royal Borough of Windsor, attractions ancient and modern

In Spain, finding peace — and paella — on Mallorca

The coronavirus pandemic has disrupted travel domestically and around the world. You will find the latest developments at washingtonpost.com/coronavirus

The Best Tips For Hiking In Europe, According To Travel Pro Rick Steves

W hen it comes to experiencing the best that Europe has to offer, nobody knows better than the beloved travel guru Rick Steves. He is America's favorite expert when it comes to European getaways. If you've ever planned a trip to Europe, you've likely purchased one of his travel guidebooks or stumbled upon some of his online articles. Rick Steves has been creating bestselling guidebooks about European travel since the 1970s and has a successful PBS television series called "Rick Steves' Europe," so it's surprising that he considered himself a novice when hiking along the European continent.

Even though he's visited Europe more often than most of us ever will, Rick Steves recently found the true beauty of hiking. While he has always appreciated Europe's beautiful parks, cities, and landscapes, he strayed away from more extensive, multi-day treks. That changed in 2021, when he embarked on an epic 6-day hiking expedition through the French Alps along the famous Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). It's one of Europe's most popular hiking routes. 

Being 66 years old at the time, Rick Steves proves you're never too old to follow your inspiration and try something new. Along the way, he learned a lot, including some essential tips for hikers of any age planning to enjoy Europe's great outdoors. In a post-trip article , Rick Steves shared his top tips for health and safety on a European hiking adventure, including packing the proper gear and taking good care of your body throughout your hiking adventure.

Read more: 15 Scenic Beginner Hiking Trails In America's National Parks

Come Prepared With The Proper Equipment

Even though Rick Steves began his hike feeling like the "father of the hiking community," he assured his readers that anyone can enjoy the pleasant pastime as long as they're prepared. He shared that, "the Tour Du Mont Blanc is doable for any reasonably fit hiker, and there were plenty of people on the trail who were older than me." According to Steves, one key to a successful experience is to stock up on the best hiking gear that will make you more comfortable. He joked that he became somewhat of a "gear geek" in the weeks leading up to his trip.

His first tip is to invest in a great daypack. If you're not planning on camping along the way, or you're hiking with an organized tour that provides the food and accommodations, a daypack should be the perfect size for everything you need during your hike. Rick Steves recommends the brand Osprey, which has some great packs starting around $100 on REI . Consider a small pack, about 11-20 liters, for short day hikes, and for longer hikes requiring extra gear, you might choose a larger 21-35 liter pack.

Other items that Rick Steves appreciated during his trip were a great pair of hiking boots, liner socks, a metal water bottle, and wool clothing and accessories. "I was never so thankful for a wool cap in Europe," he wrote on his website. Steves also considers hiking poles to be a necessity to avoid tripping or slipping, especially during inclement weather.

Take Care Of Yourself On The Trail

Keep some first aid supplies around to protect your skin from rubbing or blisters. Rick Steves suggests anti-chafing powder and moleskin. Moleskin is a tightly woven cotton fabric that can be used as a wrap or an adhesive to help reduce friction on the skin. Further protect your skin by diligently applying sunscreen, even when it doesn't seem like the sun is very intense. "Don't be a hero," Steves wrote in his blog post. "If [your] skin is getting hot, wrap it up. I did the entire TMB hike without a blister — and then just got one on purpose in the last two hours."

Steves says it's important to eat a good breakfast packed with protein to keep your body fueled throughout your day of hiking. "The one day we had breakfast with no protein, climbing was tougher," he wrote. Additionally, carry a healthy snack with you to keep you energized between meals. Steve loves a good bag of trail mix.

Finally, Steves suggests stretching every day before you begin your hike. "After learning my lesson on other long hikes, I decided to be religious about stretching on the Tour du Mont Blanc from the start," he wrote. In addition to a morning stretch, he recommends taking a few moments to pause throughout the hike to stretch to keep your muscles from tensing. By following Rick Steves' hiking tips, you'll have a happy, healthy adventure on your next hiking expedition in Europe.

Read the original article on Explore

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Europe in July - destination help

I am struggling with where to go in July 2022; we have a week to 10 days. We are looking for something chill but not so chill my teens are bored. Here is what I am hoping to find: 1) relatively easy travel from Boston and must be on Delta or one of its partners 2) a destination that isn’t overly crowded 3) a destination that isn’t too hard to physically navigate as that is difficult for one member of the party who is visually impaired (like the amalfi coast and all the stairs) 4) a small to medium, quiet ish hotel or resort that is upscale with great food (and must be able to accommodate food allergies) 5) if coastal, easy access to the beach or lakes since it will be hot (but not required if we go somewhere less hot)

Does this unicorn exist? I was initially thinking Lisbon and Algarve or but It may be too crowded and hard to navigate on foot. I was thinking maybe Germany but not sure my kids will enjoy it as much as the adults. Anywhere else? Maybe a combo of city / beach or city / lakes? do not want the UK because one of us has a trip there in august.

Aside from swimming, what activities/interests is your family looking to undertake?

And what kind of weather do you prefer? Southern Europe will be hot in July, is that a problem for you?

Try looking at Greece. You can apparently fly nonstop from Boston to Athens. My teens enjoyed Athens and Santorini when we traveled there a few years ago on Spring Break.

Greece will be hot and very busy in July. The less busy islands will be those furthest from an airport and with less regular ferries, which will be difficult with your timescale and direct flight requirements.

You aren’t going to find a coastal location anywhere that is quiet in July other than remote parts of Scandinavia, Scotland, Wales etc which maybe too quiet for your children.

Lisbon is very hilly. The Algarve will be heaving - it’s peak school holidays.

Northern Spain may suit, but I don’t know where you could fly into direct. Can you fly into Split in Croatia? Have a few days there then take the ferry to Stari Grad on Hvar and stay there or Jelsa. It will be very hot there and it’s not as busy or noisy as Hvar town. Ireland?

Do you just want beach/pool time or something else?

The Azores? Delta had flights from Boston.

Take a look at the island of Mallorca, Spain. We were there in September and they have great beaches, good food and the island is a great place to chill. I would spend 2-3 days in Palma then head for one of the smaller towns on the surrounding coasts. We went to Port de Soller and loved it, great hotels right on the beach, but it is family oriented where some of the other locations are more party orient toward young people.

You could make the trip even more interesting by stopping in Barcelona ( on the way over) and seeing the sights (Sagrda Famila) and again they have great restaurants, for 2-3 days then heading on to Mallorca. Then you could connect going home through Madrid and see sights for 2 days, like the Prado, etc.

Thank you all for your feedback! My family is into culture and history, i am particularly interested in holocaust history (less so the rest of the group). We don’t mind hot if we are at the beach but don’t want overwhelming heat in the cities, which is why I was thinking either Germany or something more coastal (eg, I probably wouldn’t want to spend a lot of time in Rome). I appreciate the replies and will look into all the options! On a related note, planning for my family has always been hard because my kids are 6 years apart in age and very different personalities….one is an athlete and the other an artist!

How about Malta? An added travel bonus is they speak English (the island was under British rule at one time) and have varied activities with few hilly spots. My husband and I stayed at Preluna Hotel, a nicely priced, full service hotel we loved which you can consider. Although, i would look online for something that might better fit you and your group. You could fly to a European hub, then book a direct flight on Air Malta. For some reason I don’t understand, and maybe someone could elaborate, Malta doesn’t make the list for American travel spots, but you’ll find it’s a favorite of the British. Good luck and remember that part of the fun of travel is the planning!

If you are considering Germany in July, I’d like to recommend one of the train connected small cities on Lake Constance/Bodensee. We have our favorites of Überlingen and Lindau. You have access to medieval towers and walls, lake ferries, unlimited biking around the lake, a lakeside open air opera in Bregenz, views of Swiss mountains, lovely hotels, lakeside promenades, formal beaches and locals’ favorites, Italian gelato shops, world class flower island, abbeys, storks, mountain lifts to hiking and more. Something for everyone. We’ve flown in to Zurich on several trips and taken the train to the lake.

I would also second Mallorca. Plenty of luxury resorts and hotels, the food is excellent and allergies are well catered for throughout the island (as is most of Europe). Mallorca is very easy to navigate, the traffic is busiest around Palma and less so at Manacor. There are beaches galore, from secluded coves, nature reserves and long sandy stretches with water to rival the Caribbean.

July will be busy but not as busy as August. It will be hot but that will be the case in most of Southern Europe and even potentially parts of Northern Europe if a heatwave occurs.

There's a lot of Moorish history in Mallorca but little beyond that however what historical sights there are are fantastic and there are some amazing caves to explore in a safe, organised environment.

I would also consider Germany. It may not have the beaches that other countries offer but its lakes are great for swimming and relaxing by. I've been to Munich in June during a very hot heatwave and the nearby lakes were a fantastic place to spend a day. Many have restaurants, bars etc surrounding the lakes so it can be just as good, if not better than the beach. The water is safer although bear in mind that it's formed from melted mountain ice so it can be refreshing. From Munich you can easily visit Salzburg and satisfy your interest in the Holocaust at nearby Dachau. English is widely spoken in Germany and you'll probably find it somewhat less busy as many Germans will be in Mallorca!

If there is a heat wave northern Europe will be hot, but southern Europe will be hotter. It might be 30°C in the north, but 40°C in the south.

Here's a city/beach or city/lakes combo for you:

Berlin for the history and culture part. Wannsee or Müggelsee as local beaches in case it gets hot while you are in Berlin.

Müritz lakes region or Baltic Sea for a couple of days on the beach.

Everything flat as a pancake. And if your kids don't find anything that interests them in Berlin, they're hopeless. :-)

Edit to add a word of warning:

The three words "July", "beach", and "not too crowded" indeed add up to a bit of a unicorn. In July, there's school summer vacation in most European countries, and people are going to be flocking to the beaches no matter which country you decide on. So for beach destinations, you should absolutely make reservations well ahead of time.

1) relatively easy travel from Boston and must be on Delta or one of its partners

Budapest is a major city so its very well connected by all the major carriers Delta/Air France included.

2) a destination that isn’t overly crowded

Not sure how to define crowded. Tourism is pretty healthy in Budapest these days, but the city is large enough to absorb it. With a little planning you wont feel like you are in a crowded place.

3) a destination that isn’t too hard to physically navigate as that is difficult for one member of the party who is visually impaired (like the amalfi coast and all the stairs)

It is a very walkable city. There are some stairs to contend with for the metro stations and you have to step up to the tram, but its not terrible. The trams here are like a city version of HOHO busses and make getting around when you get tired of walking easy and sort of fun.

4) a small to medium, quiet ish hotel or resort that is upscale with great food (and must be able to accommodate food allergies)

There are a pretty good number of 4 and 5 star hotels well located for tourism. Pretty certain you would find one that fit your needs.

5) if coastal, easy access to the beach or lakes since it will be hot (but not required if we go somewhere less hot)

If you want to see a beach or the water, take a day trip or an overnight trip to Lake Balaton; one of the largest lakes in Europe. Beautiful towns and villages around it and water sports.

6} Holocaust

I wasn't going to respond to this thread as its really about personal preference; until you mentioned holocaust. There are few if any places in the world where that history is still evident to such a large degree. Budapest's role in the Holocaust is notorious. You could spend week here on that topic alone.

7} Kids and adults

There is something for just about every age group and a lot of family friendly activities.

We did a wonderful 8 day tour in Iceland this July/August with Nordic Visitor.

Iceland is very scenic and loaded with volcanoes, ice flows and lava fields.

Direct flights from Boston.

We have been traveling to Europe with our kids since they were 4 and 7. They never got bored, and we never did kid centric trips, FWIW. They are adults now, and we included them on our trip to Iceland this past August. They had been there on their own before, just like us, but it was fun to have all of us this time. We did the ring road, which I highly recommend. Rent a vehicle and do your own thing, with maybe a few tours/excursions along the way. It was definitely a highlight of all of our trips over the years. There is SO much to see and do there, that you couldn't possibly be bored.

I would also consider Germany. It may not have the beaches that other countries offer

This is a common misconception, and I am not sure I should be telling you. We like to keep this little secret to ourselves. ;-)

Actually, Germany's beaches are better than any that I have seen anywhere I have been along the Mediterranean. The major difference is that we don't have the guaranteed sunshine you have farther south. You can have great weather in July, or you can have rain in July. That's the price you pay for avoiding the Mediterranean 40°.

Americans usually don't find out about our beaches because they all stay in Bavaria. ;-)

Consider Poland as well! I think it will fit almost all your asks, it has something for everyone, grand castles, WWII history, stunning hikes, adventure sports, and countless charming small towns untouched by mass tourism. Your dollar will also go much further in Poland than most other central/western European countries.

Regarding beach time, in the summer many Poles head to their white sand beaches along the Baltic. Sopot , north of Gdansk, was a favourite beach holiday destination for the German Kaiser and wealthy Prussian aristocracy. One could spend a relaxing week on the "Polish Riviera" around the historic Gdansk area + Sopot beach town. You can read more on Sopot here ( https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2016/sep/14/sand-sopot-poland-riviera-hel-peninsula-gdansk )

PS: Arguably the best WWII museum in Europe is located in Gdansk as well.

Thank you all so much for your feedback there are some great ideas! My two lead choices are:

1) Munich with a few days at a lake resort 2) Budapest with a few days at a lake resort

Malta is also in the consideration set but it’s a long journey so I may put that a bit lower. And we badly as I would like to go to Croatia it’s also a bit too far.

If anybody has more recos on the lake part of the stay in Germany or Hungary, I would love the input (both what region and any recommended resorts). And I also welcome any other ideas too! Thanks again!

Not sure if you saw my post on Poland before you wrote your reply, but if you're considering lakes, Poland also has you covered lol! Consider spending a week in Poland's Masurian Lakes District , between Gdansk and Warsaw. A land of many quaint medieval towns all strung together by 1000s of picturesque lakes and river-ways, the best part it's fairly off the radar for international tourists. Here is an article on the Masurian Lakes District from The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/jul/02/poland-lake-district-rivers-canoe-kayak-cycling

The Tiffi Boutique Lake Hotel in Olsztyn has been recommend to me. From Olsztyn, one can make an interesting daytrip to the Wolf's Lair, Hitler's famous military HQ in World War II. It was here that a clique of German officers attempted to assassinate Hitler in the July 20 plot.

Cities you can fly nonstop from Boston to Europe on Delta are: Paris, Rome, Dublin, Amsterdam and Lisbon.

Regarding beach time, in the summer many Poles head to their white sand beaches along the Baltic. Sopot,

Ah yes, I forgot about Sopot. It's on my family's intended list. Plenty of high end resorts with the usual suspects, Sheraton, Marriott, Sofitel, Radisson Blu and a host of other non Western resorts.

I am going to put in a good word for northern Germany and the greater region as I am wont to do. ;)

Both KLM and Air France partner with Delta. Easy connections via both Amsterdam and Paris to Hamburg or just go to Amsterdam and take a train.

Hamburg doesn't get a lot of foreign tourists--mostly Germans. If you aren't there during a festival, you won't feel too cramped.

All flat around here! Even villages with lots of old town flair are often easy to navigate.

LOTS of options in and around Hamburg for food, but if you like seafood, you can do well outside of Hamburg--on the Baltic or North Sea, for example. Or stay in a B&B on the south side of the Elbe.

Like Anna said, Germany has great beaches!

Some more particular recommendations are staying in a small town near Hamburg--I am thinking something like Glückstadt or Lüneburg. For beaches, I cannot say enough things about St. Peter-Ording. I mean, this is hands down one of the coolest and most different beaches you will ever experience. HUGE swaths of "Watt" and few people. There are also beaches directly on the Elbe in the city, though these can be crowded on a hot summer day. Or go to Düne/Helgoland for a few nights. Helgoland can get crowded during the day, but at night it's super chill and really neat, and the beaches are not at all crowded unless you count the seals that might join you on the beach.

For Holocaust, obviously Bergen-Belsen is an easy distance from Hamburg, and Neuengamme is in the city itself and of course the Nikolai church (bombed out ruins), really interesting! For teenagers, Hamburg offers a lot of city life options depending on their ages and interests. But there are some really creative tours and such. Or walk through Sternschanze.

Anyway, that's a few of my thoughts.

Also Edinburgh, and I expect Reykjavik to reappear on the schedule at some point, it is missing now. BTW Lisbon is rather cheap.

And KLM and Air France both fly to Boston, and they have connecting flights to all over Europe. So there are few places in Europe that are not relatively easy to reach from Boston.

I also agree that northern Germany sounds like a good destination. Not too hot but still beaches close by if you like. Not too crowded either. And Hamburg and Berlin are great cities to visit. Berlin usually gets a lot of (well deserved) attention, but Hamburg is very much an underrated city in my opinion. You can also add Denmark to the mix. Jutland's west coast has endless great beaches that rarely fill up even in the height of summer.

I'm just going to jump on here and say that the less internationally-touristed parts of Germany are great in July. We try not to go abroad in Europe in July/August due to school holidays so if we travel, we stay in Germany.

I'm going to second (third?) the recommendation for the Bodensee/Lake Constance. I'm a Californian and it's as close as I can get to a real seaside feeling within a few hours of where I live. Charming towns on the lake, a handful of castles and palaces, lots of kid-friendly activities, tends to be friendly for physically impaired (I took my mom and grandma, both with mobility issues, to Meersburg on the Bodensee) and a lot of nice hotels, some with direct lake access. But I'd book soon if that appeals, the Germans book their holidays early as well! The nearest "big" airport is Stuttgart but we're kinda lacking direct flights from the US now, but Frankfurt isn't TOO far away, especially if you take the fast train (ICE) directly from the airport to another place where you pick up a car. You're at the edge of two wonderful areas, the Swabisch Alb and the Allgau region, close to the alps and the Black forest as well. Lots to explore in that area and could easily be mixed with a trip to Munich as well.

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