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Zumsteinspitze

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The Zumsteinspitze was the first summit of the Monte Rosa massif to be climbed. Its name comes from the topographer Joseph Zumstein, who explored the peak with other scientists.

Height 4,563 m

First ascent 1 August 1820

First climbed by Joseph and Johann Nikolaus Vincent, Joseph Zumstein, Joseph Beck, H. Molinatti, Marty and Castel

Tips in the village

• Zermatlantis, the Matterhorn Museum: reliefs and photos
• Hotel Monte Rosa, guided tours
• Mountaineers’ cemetery

Tips for visitors

• Best view of the Zumsteinspitze: from the Gornergrat (cog railway)

Tips for hikers

• High-altitude hike to the Monte Rosa hut (glacier trek, mountain guide required)
• Rotenboden - Riffelberg

Zumsteinspitze: tips for mountaineers

• Mountain guide necessary
• Depending on fitness levels, suitable for single or multiple ascents in the Monte Rosa massif
• Multi-day tour
• Medium difficulty

Early topographical exploration of the Monte Rosa massif The Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) is the third-highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It lies between the Dufourspitze and the Signalkuppe, separated by the Grenzsattel (4,453 m) and the Colle Gnifetti (4,453 m). It was first climbed very early in the history of alpinism, for scientific reasons, at a time when the Monte Rosa massif was still completely unknown.

Origin of name Ludwig Freiherr von Welden, the Austrian general and topographer, named the peak after Joseph Zumstein, who completed the first ascent in summer 1820 in the name of scientific research. The two explorers worked together on the mapping of the Monte Rosa massif.

Protection order for the Monte Rosa ibex It is likely that ibex on the Monte Rosa massif would now be history had not the draper, natural scientist and forestry inspector Joseph Zumstein from the Val de Gressoney made the House of Savoy aware of the dwindling numbers of these impressive creatures. A protection order, the Patenti, was issued on 21 September 1821.

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Spaghetti-Tour Monte-Rosa – legendary

The Spaghetti Tour in the Monte Rosa massif is one of the most legendary and beautiful multi-day alpine tours in the Alps. A total of ten four-thousand-metre peaks are climbed in 5 days. A special highlight is the overnight stay at the Margherita hut, the highest hut in the Alps at 4,500 meters.

Monte Rosa with Dufourspitze

Spaghetti tour in the Monte Rosa Massif

The Monte Rosa massif is surrounded by majestic glaciers and comprises ten peaks with an altitude of over 4000 meters. It stretches across the borders of Switzerland and is partly located on Italian territory. The highest peak in Switzerland, the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), is characterized by a black rocky ridge.

As one of the ten main peaks in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peak in Switzerland, the Dufourspitze competes with the Dom at 4,545 m, the highest mountain that lies entirely on Swiss soil.

The Dufourspitze was originally called the Gornerhorn. However, it was renamed in honor of the Swiss general Guillaume-Henri Dufour. Dufour was the first general in the history of the Swiss army.

Monte Rosa massif with hut

The Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m) can be reached from the Rotenboden station of the Gornergratbahn. The challenging 3-4 hour alpine route leads over steep moraines and rocks. At the entrance to the Gorner Glacier, there is an iron ladder about 15 meters high to negotiate.

Spaghetti tour to prepare for the Matterhorn

The classic route of the Spaghetti Tour in preparation for the Matterhorn ascent starts at the Monte Rosa Hut, runs along the border between Italy and Switzerland and ends at the Klein Matterhorn mountain station .

Another option for the Spaghetti Tour is to take the cable car to Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) and from there to the Breithorn (4,164 m), the first summit of the Spaghetti Tour.

5-day tour Monte Rosa adventure

Day 1: 4.0 hours From the Klein Matterhorn 3820 m leisurely ascent to the summit of the Breithorn 4164 m. Magnificent view of the prominent four-thousand-meter peaks. Along the southern flank to the Schwarztor and descent to the Rifugio Guida d’Ayas 3394m.

Day 2: 5.5 hours Ascent in the direction of Zwillingsjoch to the summit of Castor 4223 m. With views from the highest point to the nearby Lyskamm and the view down over the twin glaciers. Then to the Rifugio Sella 3585 m.

Day 3: 6.5 hours Along the south side of the Lyskamm to Naso 4272 m. Descent on rock to the Balmenhorn 4167 m. Vincent pyramid 4215 m with great views as far as the Upper Italian lakes. Then descent to Rifugio Mantova 3400 m.

Day 4: 6.5 hours Route to the Lysjoch, past the Rifugio Gnifetti and ascent to the 4000 m limit and Nero 4321 m, the Ludwigshöhe 4341 m and the Parrotspitze 4432 m, and the Signalkuppe 4554 m with the Capanna Margherita (Margherita hut). The view of the lights of Varese and Milan in the evening is simply gigantic.

Day 5: 6.0 hours Zumsteinspitze 4563m with the intoxicating view down the mighty east face to Macugnaga more than 3000 meters below, then down over the huge Grenz Glacier, past the ice-armoured north face of the Lyskamm to the Monte Rosa Hut, then to Rotenboden and via the Gornergrat Bahn to Zermatt.

Margherita hut

Highest mountain hut in the Alps

The Margherita hut is located on the Signalkuppe in the Monte Rosa massif and sits spectacularly at an altitude of 4,554 m, making it the highest building in Europe. The hut is located in the immediate vicinity of the Swiss border and mainly serves as a refuge for mountaineers.

The Margherita hut – Capanna Regina Margherita – is best reached from the Gnifetti hut (3,625 m). First ascend to the Zurbriggenjoch. Cross the pass, pass the Seserjoch on Swiss territory and continue steeply towards the Signalkuppe.

The hut is an ideal starting point for glacier tours to the Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze, Nordend and Liskamm peaks.

The Spaghetti Route in the Monte Rosa massif is legendary and one of the most beautiful multi-day alpine tours in the Alps.

Video descent from the Margherita hut via the Monte Rosa border glacier

End of the 5-day super high-altitude tour classic of the Spaghetti Tour in Valais over the 4000m peaks of the Monte Rosa mountains…

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Video THE SPAGHETTIRUNDE – 5-day high tour in Monte Rosa

Spaghetti tour: super high-altitude tour classic in Valais over the 4000-metre peaks of the Monte Rosa mountains…

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Zumsteinspitze (4,563m a.s.l.)

This four-thousander gets its name from Joseph Zumstein, who was the first person to climb it. The Zumsteinspitze lies in the middle of the Monte Rosa massif, between Dufourspitze and Signalkuppe.

Description

The Zumsteinspitze (4,563m a.s.l.) is in the Valais Alps and the third-highest elevation in the Monte Rosa massif. It lies between the Dufourspitze and the Signalkuppe, and has an imposing glacier on the border with Italy (the Grenz Glacier) at its base on the western side. Joseph Vincent and his rope party were the first to reach the peak in 1820. It gets its name from Joseph Zumstein, one of the people in the first group to climb it. The simplest route takes climbers over the southeast ridge.

Further information and the SAC’s suggested routes 

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Zumsteinspitze

Height 4,563 m

First ascent 1 August 1820

First climbed by Joseph and Johann Nikolaus Vincent, Joseph Zumstein, Joseph Beck, H. Molinatti, Marty and Castel

Tips in the village

• Zermatlantis, the Matterhorn Museum: reliefs and photos
• Hotel Monte Rosa, guided tours
• Mountaineers’ cemetery

Tips for visitors

• Best view of the Zumsteinspitze: from the Gornergrat (cog railway)

Tips for hikers

• High-altitude hike to the Monte Rosa hut (glacier trek, mountain guide required)
• Rotenboden - Riffelberg

Zumsteinspitze: tips for mountaineers

• Mountain guide necessary
• Depending on fitness levels, suitable for single or multiple ascents in the Monte Rosa massif
• Multi-day tour
• Medium difficulty

Early topographical exploration of the Monte Rosa massif The Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) is the third-highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It lies between the Dufourspitze and the Signalkuppe, separated by the Grenzsattel (4,453 m) and the Colle Gnifetti (4,453 m). It was first climbed very early in the history of alpinism, for scientific reasons, at a time when the Monte Rosa massif was still completely unknown.

Origin of name Ludwig Freiherr von Welden, the Austrian general and topographer, named the peak after Joseph Zumstein, who completed the first ascent in summer 1820 in the name of scientific research. The two explorers worked together on the mapping of the Monte Rosa massif.

Protection order for the Monte Rosa ibex It is likely that ibex on the Monte Rosa massif would now be history had not the draper, natural scientist and forestry inspector Joseph Zumstein from the Val de Gressoney made the House of Savoy aware of the dwindling numbers of these impressive creatures. A protection order, the Patenti, was issued on 21 September 1821.

Coordinates

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Nearby Points of Interest

• Monte Rosa massif
• Grenzgipfel
• Dunantspitze
• Dufourspitze
• Signalkuppe

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Zumsteinspitze - 4 Things to Know Before Visiting

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Mountain Peaks

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About zumsteinspitze.

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• Discover More Attractions in Piedmont
• Location and Map

The Zumsteinspitze is a huge mountain peak located in the Pennine Alps on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It was the first summit of the Monte Rosa massif to be climbed. Its name comes from the topographer Joseph Zumstein, who explored the peak with other scientists. It is one of the 4 Monte Rosa summits looming high above the Macugnagna valley and forming the famous Monte Rosa East wall, the biggest and highest rock face in the Alps.

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Activities Around

Attractions near zumsteinspitze.

0.64km from Zumsteinspitze

Monte Rosa is a 41.7 kilometer out and back trail located near Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland that features a river and is rated as difficult. The trail is primarily used for hiking, walking, nature trips, and backpacking.

Signalkuppe

0.68km from zumsteinspitze.

The Signalkuppe is a peak in the Pennine Alps on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a minor peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The mountain gets its name from "the Sign", a prominent gendarme atop the eastern ridge, which was demolished when the Reina Margherita shelter was built.

Margherita Hut

0.69km from zumsteinspitze.

The Margherita Hut is situated on Punta Gnifetti at a height of 4556m on the Monte Rosa massive. It is clearly visible from the valley and catches the eye of all who look up towards the peaks. It is the highest refuge in Europe, it houses important labor for scientific research and it is dedicated to Queen Margaret of Savoy who overnighted in 1893, the year of its inauguration.

Parrotspitze

1.35km from zumsteinspitze.

The Parrotspitze or Punta Parrot is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, located in the massif of the Monte Rosa, along the border between Italy and Switzerland. Presenting the mountain as a long and sharp ridge arranged in a west-east direction, it is possible to ascend it easily starting from the Col del Lys or from the Col Sesia, the col that separates it from the nearby Punta Gnifetti. A longer and steeper ascent unfolds up the Valais face starting from the Fratelli Gugliermina hut.

2.34km from Zumsteinspitze

The Balmenhorn is a 4,167 m listed elevation belonging to the Monte Rosa massif in the Pennine Alps. It is particularly known because on its summit there is the Felice Giordano bivouac and the majestic statue of Christ of the Peaks. It can be seen along the road that leads from Capanna Giovanni Gnifetti to Capanna Regina Margherita. It is not commonly listed among the Alpine peaks higher than 4000 meters because it does not meet all the criteria to be considered a peak in its own right.

Vincent Pyramid

2.82km from zumsteinspitze.

The Vincent Pyramid is a mountain of the Monte Rosa massif in the Pennine Alps. It is located entirely in Italian territory along the watershed that divides the upper Lys valley from the upper Valsesia descending from Ludwigshöhe. The summit is bordered to the west by the Lys glacier, to the south by the Indren glacier, and to the east by the Piode glacier. One of the risky trekking destination and also the summit offers a beautiful panoramic view of this area.

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Discover More Attractions in Piedmont , Home of Zumsteinspitze

80 attractions

Piedmont is a region in northwest Italy, one of the 20 regions of the country. It borders the Liguria region to the south, the Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna regions to the east, and the Aosta Valley region to the northwest; it also borders Switzerland to the northeast and France to the west. It has an area of 25,402 km2 making it the second-largest region of Italy after Sicily and a population of 4,322,805 as of 30 June 2020. The capital of Piedmont is Turin.

Location of Zumsteinspitze

For more information about Zumsteinspitze , visit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zumsteinspitze

To view all hotels near Zumsteinspitze , visit: Hotels near Zumsteinspitze

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Bergportrait: Zumsteinspitze (4.563 m)

Die Zumsteinspitze gehört mit 4.563 m zu den ganz Großen der Alpen. Sie liegt an der Grenze von Italien und der Schweiz, nur einen Steinwurf entfernt von der höchstgelegenen Schutzhütte Europas, der Margheritahütte. Wir stellen euch den Viertausender im Detail vor.

Höhe und Lage

Die Zumsteinspitze liegt an der Grenze von Italien und der Schweiz im östlichen Walliser Grenzkamm in der Monte-Rosa-Gruppe und zählt mit 4.563 m zu den ganz Großen der Alpen. Daran ändern auch ihre prominenten Nachbarn Dufourspitze (4.634 m) und Signalkuppe (4.554 m) nichts. Der Aufstieg selbst ist durch die Nähe zur Margheritahütte vergleichsweise einfach: Hat man erst einmal die Signalkuppe und die dort befindliche Hütte erreicht, sind die paar verbleibenden Höhenmeter hinauf auf den Gipfel der Felspyramide ein Klacks.

Einzig bei schlechter Sicht ist Vorsicht angesagt: Ein guter Orientierungssinn am Colle Gnifetti ist dann unerlässlich. Mehr Sinn macht die Tour natürlich bei Schönwetter – allein schon wegen des fantastischen Gipfelpanoramas mit Dufourspitze im Norden, Signalkuppe im Süden und den Stars des Zentralkamms – von Breithorn über Matterhorn bis zur Dent Blanche – im Westen.

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Erstmals bestiegen wurde die Zumsteinspitze am 1. August 1820 von Joseph Zumstein und Gefolge. Sie erreichten den Gipfel über den Grenzgletscher vom Colle Gnifetti – damals existierte hier weit und breit noch keine Hütte. Die Tour führte die Erstbesteiger damit an einen der entlegensten und einsamsten Orte der Alpen.

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Die zumsteinspitze im überblick:.

• Höhe: 4.563 m
• Lage: Östlicher Walliser Grenzkamm
• Talort: Alagna (Italien) oder Zermatt (Schweiz)
• Stützpunkt: Margheritahütte (4.554 m) oder Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2.883 m)
• Erstbesteigung: 1820

Die klassische Tour auf die Zumsteinspitze erfolgt aus dem italienischen Alagna (1.190 m): Den Zustieg zur Margheritahütte kann man sich erleichtern und mit der Kabinenbahn zur Bergstation Passo Salato/Colle d'Olen (2.864 m) fahren. Von dort geht es übers Rifugio Gnifetti (Übernachtungsmöglichkeit) in nordöstlicher Richtung über den Gletscherboden hinauf in Richtung Lisjoch. Unterhalb des Schwarzhorns steigt man zu einem flachen Sattel und unter der Nordflanke von Ludwigshöhe und Parrotspitze auf den Gipfel der Signalkuppe auf, wo mit der Margheritahütte auf 4.554 m auch die höchstgelegene Schutzhütte Europas thront. Übers Colle Gnifetti steigt man schließlich in nordwestlicher Richtung über den Grat hinauf auf den Gipfel der Zumsteinspitze (4.563 m).

Andere lohnende Routen führen über den Nordgrat oder von der Dufourspitze über den Grenzsattel auf den Gipfel. Wer die Zumsteinspitze von der Schweiz aus besteigen möchte, startet die Tour in Zermatt und übernachtet auf der Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2.883 m) .

Tourentipps

Zumsteinspitze

Campanna Marghérita - Zumsteinspitze - Dufourspitze - Monte-Rosa-Hütte

Gut zu wissen.

Der Name der Zumsteinspitze leitet sich von Erstbesteiger Joseph Zumstein ab. Der österreichische General und Topograf Ludwig Freiherr von Welden taufte den Gipfel auf den Namen seines Forscherkollegen. Gemeinsam machten sie sich mit der topografischen Erschließung des Monte-Rosa-Massivs verdient.

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Mindestlaufzeit: 6 Ausgaben

Ohne Risiko: Jederzeit zum Monatsletzten unter Einhaltung einer 4-wöchigen Kündigungsfrist schriftlich kündbar. (Nach Ende der Mindestlaufzeit)

Mehr zum Thema

Die höchsten Berge der Alpen im Portrait

Bergportrait: Signalkuppe (4.554 m)

Bergportrait: Obergabelhorn (4.063 m)

Bergwelten entdecken, unterkünfte.

Routes and passages

Alpine paradise

Route options

Monte rosa dufourspitze 4634m.

The Monte Rosa Dufourspitze is the highest peak in Switzerland. It is the second highest peak in the Alps.

In both summer and winter this is one of the most demanding high-altitude tours in the middle of the imposing Monte Rosa mountain range.

Variations: Via the Cresta Rey Grad ZS or as a crossing to the Zumstein (4563m) then to the Signalkuppe 4554m (Margherita Hütte) or as a combination together with the Nordend.

Nordend 4609

There is a possibility to hike up to the summit or ski tour over the Silbersattel to the top. The Nordend is seen to be in the shadow of its neighbor the Dufour. In winter there is a possibility to ski down the Monte Rosa Glacier, it is a wonderful ski run. S+, 5-7h Variations: Via the Cresta Santa Caterina (NO ridge), SS

Zumsteinspitze 4563m / Signalkuppe 4554m (Margherita Hütte) / Parrotspitze 4434m / Ludwigshöhe 4342m / Schwarzhorn 4321m / Balmhorn 4167m / Vincentpyramide 4215m

This is an easily accessible summit with a climb over the Grenz glacier. Several summits can be combined in one day.

Overnight accommodation is available in the Margerita hut (highest hut in Europe) or in the huts on the Italian side (Gnifetti or Mantova).

Lyskamm Ost 4527m and West 4479m

This is one of the most beautiful crossings in the Alps. This route is suitable for climbers in good physical condition. It is also possible to climb the eastern summit only. During the crossing, you can stay in the Quintino Sella hut.

SS, 6-8h for the eastern summit, 8-10h for the crossing

Variations: north wall of the eastern summit.

Haute-Route

The Haute Route connects Saas Fee with Chamonix. This seven-day ski tour is a must for any ski touring fan. For the past couple of years the route has been open in summer and includes glacier trekking.

Jägerhorn 3970m

Beautiful tour in wild surroundings and a nice climbing route to the summit.

Cima di Jazzi 3803m

This is an easy ski tour with a beautiful descent over the Findel Glacier to Zermatt.

It is often an option after a big touring day to get you

back to Zermatt.

Castor 4223m / Pollux 4092m / Breithorn 4164m

These are ideal mountains for ski touring with an ascent over the Schwarztor. hut over the Gorner glacier.

The tour starts with the descent from the Monte Rosa hut

The Monte Rosa hut often serves as a starting point to cross over to Italy for example:

• ITA: Signalkuppe – Margherita Hütte
• ITA: Lysjoch – Gnifetti Hütte (Gressoney / Alagna)
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Zumsteinspitze Climber's Log

SteliosDer - Oct 25, 2023 10:04 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2022

From Gnifetti Hut, after Balmenhorn. Perfect day, perfect views.

hautfolin88 - Jan 19, 2023 4:03 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2021

Conditions excellentes. Un petit peu dans les vapes à partir de 4200m

arosusi - Jul 9, 2020 8:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2020

Not much to say. On the way to Dufourspitze.

il.rocciatore - Jul 30, 2019 9:44 am

Quickly climbed the Zumsteinspitze on our way to the Dufourspitze from the Margherita Hut. Arrived at the perfect moment at sunrise. Alone on the summit with another rope party. No crowds yet. A moment to remember...

Bart1984 - Apr 14, 2019 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2018

After climbed the Dufourspitze back over the Zumsteinspitze. The sattle between those 2 was a bit scary.

boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 4:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2017

Climbed it solo in 1 day up & down from Staffal in the valley (1825m) #nonstopsolo

jck - Sep 12, 2016 6:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2016

This was the first peak of a nice five-summit-day trip on Monte Rosa. Ascent a bit tricky due to strong wind and a small crevasse that has to be tackled on the summit ridge.

Lodewijk - Jan 2, 2016 11:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2015

Speeded up Zumsteinspitze from the col that connects the mountain to Signalkuppe. The highest point I've been on so far. I really liked the views towards Dufourspitze, Nordend and down towards Macugnagna. Crazy Idea that we looked up from there gazing at the highest rock face in the Alps just days ago and 3000 vertical meters lower. Climbed together with Roeland.

Frank - Dec 1, 2015 8:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2015

A summit on a day we did part of the Spaghetti tour.

JanVanGenk - Nov 3, 2014 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2014

Climbed as the first summit during the solo traverse of the 6 Monte Rosa peaks (Zumsteinspitze, Signalkuppe, Parrotspitze, Ludwigshöhe, Schwarzhorn, and Vincent Pyramid) in one day from the Mantova hut. Strong winds at the summit.

Donno - Sep 6, 2014 9:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2014

Bagged summit on descent form Margherita hut, down Grenz glacier to Monte Rosa Hut, Gornergrat and the Bahnhofstrasse in Zermatt.

jeff74 - Jul 22, 2014 11:08 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2013

We started from Rifugio Cita Di Mantova (a very nice and friendly refuge) and climbed in perfect conditions ! It was nearly too hot on that day ! I climbed with my friend Netto and it was an amazing experience, and was very proud to stand on the top of this mountain !

SarahThompson - Sep 7, 2013 6:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2013

From the Monte Rosa Hut, ascended the heavily crevassed Grenzgletcher and bagged Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze, Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe and then stayed overnight at the Margherita Hut. Returned to Zermatt the next day via the Grenzgletcher.

andrea.it - Aug 25, 2013 10:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013

Dufourspitze missed for some reasons... Climbed the Zumstein from the third time. Hope the last.

markthejock - Aug 14, 2013 11:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013

Nice views of Dufourspitze but that's for another day...

markhallam - Jul 14, 2013 1:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

Traversed twice en route to Dufour and back with rgg and Alasdair. Had done same in 1982, all of 31 years ago - don't remember it being so exposed and certainly not the tricky little rock move just below top on the Dufour side.

rgg - Jul 8, 2013 4:23 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

Alistair, Mark and I traversed it twice, first on our way from Capanna Margherita to the Dufourspitze and then on the return.

darien17 - Feb 4, 2013 10:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012

Route from Gniftti great sunny day,after sleeping in Margharita hut summited Zumsteinspitze then decended to Gnifetti,nice snow climb a few cracks in snow

Silvia Mazzani - Sep 7, 2012 11:18 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2005

From Mantova Hut.

cabouckaert1 - Oct 15, 2011 11:13 am

Short descent and climb from the Margherita hut. So close to the Dufourspitze (final goal) but ridge was too technical for us, so descended down to Monte Rosa hut and were unable to attempt Dufour due to bad weather next day. Beautiful mountain though!

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Dufourspitze

Height 4,634 m

First ascent 1 August 1855

First climbed by Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck, Christopher Smyth, James G. Smyth, Edward J.W. Stevenson, Ulrich Lauener, Johannes Zumtaugwald, Matthäus Zumtaugwald

Tips in the village

• Zermatlantis, the Matterhorn Museum: reliefs and photos
• Hotel Monte Rosa, guided tours
• Mountaineers’ cemetery

Tips for visitors

Tips for hikers

• Gornergrat: Sonnenweg trail, Rotenboden - Riffelberg

Dufourspitze: tips for mountaineers

• Mountain guide necessary
• Depending on fitness levels, suitable for single or multiple ascents in the Monte Rosa massif
• Multi-day trip
• Medium difficulty

Switzerland’s highest mountain The Dufour peak is the highest summit in Switzerland and one of the ten main summits of the Monte Rosa massif. Its rival is the Dom, the highest mountain located entirely within Swiss territory. The 150th anniversary of the first ascent was celebrated in 2005: Federal Councillor Joseph Deiss, together with Zermatt mountain guides who were descendants of the first conquerors of the mountain, climbed from the old Monte Rosa cabin to the peak in a seven-hour tour. There he met up with the Italian minister of agriculture, Giovanni Alemanno.

Monte Rosa massif The Monte Rosa has ten peaks higher than 4,000 m: Dunantspitze (Ostspitze), Dufourspitze, Grenzgipfel, Ludwigshöhe, Nordend, Parrotspitze, Schwarzhorn, Signalkuppe, Vincent Pyramid, Zumsteinspitze.

Origin of name Until the 1940s, the peak was also commonly called the Gornerhorn or Höchste Spitze. Once again, it was the Austrian general and topographer Ludwig von Welden who named the summit. Thanks to the accomplishments of General Dufour in the field of cartography, the Federal Council decided in 1863, on the request of leading mountaineers and members of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), to rename the mountain Dufourspitze.

History The first ascent took place on 1 August 1855 by a rope team led by Charles Hudson. Hudson was subsequently a member of the team that completed the first ascent of the Matterhorn, in 1865 – and one of the four climbers who fell to their deaths during the descent. On the Dufourspitze, Hudson was accompanied by John Birkbeck, Edward J.W. Stephenson and the brothers Christopher and James G. Smyth. (See also entry on the Matterhorn.)

Cartographer and co-founder of the Red Cross One of the great achievements, but by no means the only one, of General Guillaume-Henri Dufour was his Dufour map. Made between 1845 and 1865, it won worldwide recognition and the highest honours at the Paris world fair in 1855. Dufour achieved eminence during the Sonderbund civil war of 1847 – the last war fought on Swiss soil, which lasted only 27 days – by his adherence to humanitarian principles in the conduct of warfare. Dufour was a co-founder of the International Committee of the Red Cross.

Reading “Monte Rosa – Königin der Alpen”, by Daniel Anker/Marco Volken. In German only. Published by AS Verlag Zürich, 2009, ISBN 3-909111-68-8

Coordinates

Recommendations nearby.

The last day's stage of the well-known high-altitude tour "Spaghetti Round" leads over Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), Dufourspitze (4,634 m) and Nordend ...

The sunrise on the Zumsteinspitze is the crowning glory of the spaghetti tour.

Rifugio Capanna Giovanni Gnifetti - Colle Del Lys - Colle Gnifetti - Punta Gnifetti - Rifugio Capanna Regina Margherita The route crosses an ...

On the summit of the Signalkuppe is the highest hut in Europe, the Capanna Margherita.

Dufourspitze, 4634m, in the Monte Rosa area, is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second-highest in the Alps.

Beautiful ridge tour to the Vincent Pyramid over snow and rock via Südwerstgrat.

Nearby Points of Interest

• Dufourspitze 4634 m above sea level.
• Grenzgipfel
• Dunantspitze
• Monte Rosa massif

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The Dufourspitze is the highest peak in Switzerland and the second highest peak in the Alps; it is just as desirable a destination for many alpinists as Mont Blanc.

On the 28th of January, 1863, the Swiss Federal Council decreed that the culmination point of the Monte Rosa massif be renamed Dufourspitze on the advice of members of the Swiss Alpine Club, in honor of the Swiss cartographer and general Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787 - 1875). In 1824, Ludwig Freiherr von Welden gave the summit the name “Höchste Spitze" or "Highest Peak”.

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Rifugio giovanni gnifetti cai, bivacco città di gallarate, capanna quintino sella cai, similar destinations, augstbordhorn, cima di pinadee, our recommendations.

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