2003 chrysler voyager anti theft reset

Chrysler 300 Anti Theft Reset (Step By Step Guide!)

Many times, you might have to reset Chrysler 300 anti theft system. The reasons for the same can be quite a few. I will cover these reasons and the Chrysler 300 anti-theft reset procedure you need to follow to do so.

How to reset anti theft on Chrysler 300?

Method 1: resetting using the original key:.

The procedure I am highlighting now requires you to have the original key to reset the anti theft system.

Step one: Turn the key into the ON position:

You have to insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the on position, and hold it for at least ten seconds .

Step two: Turn the key to the OFF position:

You have to move the key to the off position and hold it for at least ten seconds.

Step three: Repeat the procedure:

You have to repeat this procedure at least thrice.

In these three simple steps, you will be able to reset the anti-theft system of your Chrysler 300. The only requirement is that you should have the original key.

Method 2: Resetting by using the mechanical key:

This procedure will only work if the anti-theft system has been triggered by the key fob battery turning dead. The anti-theft system might get triggered whenever that happens, and the key fob is near the car.

Step one: Try and replace the battery:

If you have a spare battery nearby, the best way to go for it is to replace the battery and unlock the vehicle using the car key fob.

However, not everyone carries a spare battery with them. In that case, you need to go to step two.

Step two: Use the mechanical key to open the door:

When you use the mechanical key to open the door while the anti-theft alarm system is sounding, you will reset it. The anti-theft alarm will be silenced.

Unfortunately, if you neither have a spare battery nor the mechanical key, you will have no other option but to go to the third method.

Method 3: Disconnecting the battery:

Many times, even after trying the procedure above, you might not be able to disarm the anti-theft system or reset it. In that case, you will have no other alternative but to disconnect the battery. The procedure to do so is pretty simple.

You have to open the car’s hood and unplug the terminals connected to the battery.

Doing so will ensure that the anti-theft alarm stops and the anti-theft system will reset.

After that, if you want to use your car, you can connect the battery once again after a gap of 5 to 10 minutes. No longer the anti-theft alarm will turn on.

At least one of these three methods can certainly help you out when you want to reset the Chrysler 300 anti-theft system.

When should I reset my anti-theft in Chrysler 300?

Resetting the anti-theft system in Chrysler 300 is not required for spurious reasons. Many times, there might be legit reasons.

1. Accidental trigger:

When your Chrysler 300 is new, the anti-theft system’s accidental triggering will not occur.

However, the same cannot be said if you have driven around your Chrysler 300 for at least 4 to 5 years.

In that case, there can be many causes for accidental triggering. It can be due to faulty sensors or an onboard computer. The causes for the same can be quite a few.

If you have accidentally triggered the anti-theft mechanism, there will be no other alternative but to reset it.

2. Problematic anti-theft system:

Anti-theft systems are usually quite precise. However, they rely on various inputs from the vehicle as well as on a few sensors. A sensor becoming faulty is inevitable if you own your Chrysler 300 long enough.

Whenever t he inputs provided to the anti-theft system of your Chrysler 300 are wrong , it can lead to the erroneous triggering of the anti-theft system itself.

Many times, the circuitry of the anti-theft system itself can be faulty.

The point I’m trying to make is that it can be triggered due to problems with the anti-theft system itself. In case that is the cause, you have no other alternative but to reset it to ensure that you can use your vehicle again or at least get it repaired.

3. Improper communication with car key:

If the programming of the car key fob is lost, the next time you use it, your Chrysler 300 might identify it as a theft attempt and might trigger the anti-theft system.

In case there is a problem in the on-board computer system of your car, then too, the communication with your car key might not be proper. In that case, as well, the anti-theft system might be triggered.

The triggering due to improper communication with your car key fob, of course, requires an anti-theft system reset.

4. Car won’t start:

Many times, when you turn the key in the ignition slot, you will notice the anti-theft system light blinking on the dashboard. In that case, usually, the car won’t respond, and it won’t turn on.

Sure enough, if you’re inside the car and trying to turn on the ignition, this can be an accidental triggering of the anti-theft system. However, other than having to reset the system, there is no other alternative in that case.

Unless and until you reset the anti-theft system, you won’t be able to start your Chrysler 300. Even if you use the mechanical key or the spare key, still Chrysler 300 won’t start till you turn off the anti-theft light blinking in the dashboard.

To do so, the simplest way is to reset the anti-theft system using any of the procedures above. Once you do so, you can easily start your car and drive to your destination.

5. Actual theft trigger:

Of course, when someone tries to steal your Chrysler 300, that is also when your anti-theft system will go off. Most likely, the theft will not be successful due to the loud alarm.

However, once the thief is away, you will need to reset the anti-theft system to inspect the damage and move your car to a safer location or alert the authorities.

What happens after resetting anti-theft in Chrysler 300?

After resetting the anti-theft system in your Chrysler 300, you can easily turn on the ignition and drive your car. In most cases, there will be no effect on your vehicle’s performance unless and until it has been damaged in a burglary attempt.

Related Post:

• Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Reset (Step By Step Guide!)
• Red Lightning Bolt On Chrysler 300 (Meaning, Issues Fixed)

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What is the immobilizer or anti-theft system on a Chrysler?

In a few words: The immobilizer or anti-theft system verifies that the key used to turn the engine on is the correct one. If the key is not the correct one, this system blocks different actions to prevent the car from starting.

When this system is activated on your Chrysler a warning light such as the one below will turn on:

What happens when the immobilizer is activated on a Chrysler?

If the car does not recognize the signal of the key, two things may happen:

• The engine may turn on for a few seconds and then it will stop.
• The engine will not turn on.

The car's computer will disable the fuel pump, the ignition coil and/or the injectors, depending on the electronic immobilizer system. Moreover, if the car has a diesel engine, this system will also block the “stop” relay, which will prevent the fuel from being injected into the engine. Sometimes, this system will also block the steering column which will lock the steering wheel.

Why is the immobilizer activated on a Chrysler?

The main reason is because the car's computer does not recognize or does not detect the signal sent by the chip which is inside the key. The most common reasons as to why this happens are: ⚠️ Low battery of the key or the remote control: the chip will not send the signal. ⚠️ The chip of the key is damaged or has been decoded : it may happen if the key is damaged or if it gets wet. ⚠️ Faulty electrical wiring: it may happen both in the antenna as well as in the immobilizer unit or the engine's computer.

Less frequent causes:

• Damaged antenna : due to electrical reasons, the antenna may stop working.
• Lack of synchronization of the immobilizer unit.
• Electronic failure : any of the contacts or internal electronic components of the module or the computer may get damaged.

How can I fix an immobilizer problem on a Chrysler?

Since this system is delicate, it is advisable to leave this process in the hands of a specialist.

First, the technician will scan the car with the adequate diagnosis equipment to check if the problem is actually related to the immobilizer system.

If that is the case, the technician will have to identify the cause among the causes already mentioned and then see if this problem can be solved via programming or if it is necessary to replace any of the components.

How does the immobilizer or anti-theft system or your Chrysler work?

Each original key has a chip inside which sends a signal when it gets close to the ignition switch. Inside the switch there is an antenna which receives this signal and sends it to the car's computer. If the signal is the same as the one the car has saved, then the driver will be allowed to start the car.

The immobilizer is automatic and manual activation is never needed. Remember that you can check if your car has this system or not in your owner's manual .

Chrysler models with more Anti-theft Immobilizer problems

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How to Reset the Security System on a Dodge Caravan

The security system on a Dodge Caravan acts as an anti-theft deterrent. The security system uses a proximity sensor and ignition kill switch to help prevent unauthorized vehicle use. While the system is designed to work reliably, there are times when you may experience a false alarm. When this happens, it can be somewhat embarrassing, especially when you are trying to get in the van. In these cases you will need to reset the security system.

Insert the ignition key into the driver side door lock.

Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock the door.

Turn the key clockwise to initiate the alarm activation sequence.

Turn the key counterclockwise. The alarm will stop and reset itself.

• "Dodge Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Chrysler Town & Country Repair Manual 2003-2006"; John Wegmann, John H. Haynes; 2006

I am a Registered Financial Consultant with 6 years experience in the financial services industry. I am trained in the financial planning process, with an emphasis in life insurance and annuity contracts. I have written for Demand Studios since 2009.

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Unlocking Anti-Theft Systems: Disable, Reset & Start Your Car

Dealing with anti-theft systems in modern cars.

The presence of anti-theft systems in our vehicles plays a pivotal role in ensuring the safety and security of our valuable assets. These systems are a formidable defense against car theft, but at times, they can become the source of vexing dilemmas, particularly when they prevent us from starting our vehicles. From a false alarm triggered by an inadvertent jostle to the ever-elusive car key that seems to have vanished into thin air, the scenarios where anti-theft systems thwart our attempts to start our cars can be confusing. This comprehensive guide seeks to unravel the intricacies of anti-theft systems in modern cars, providing insights into their operation, troubleshooting methods for starting issues, and responsible management of these systems when they present challenges.

Understanding Anti-Theft Systems for Cars

Explaining various types of anti-theft systems.

Modern vehicles are equipped with a variety of anti-theft systems, each designed to protect your car in its unique way. Among the most common types are immobilizers, alarm systems, and steering wheel locks. 

How Anti-Theft Systems Prevent Unauthorized Access

Anti-theft systems are designed to prevent unauthorized access to vehicles by employing a combination of technological and physical measures. Here are some common ways these systems work:

Keyless Entry Systems:

Many modern vehicles come equipped with keyless entry systems that use a remote key fob. The key fob emits a unique code that is recognized by the vehicle's onboard computer. Without the correct code, the vehicle remains locked.

Immobilizers:

Immobilizers are electronic devices that prevent the engine from starting unless the correct key or transponder is present. These devices disable key components, such as the ignition or fuel system, until the authorized key is used.

Car alarms are triggered by unauthorized attempts to access the vehicle. They can be activated by breaking a window, attempting to open doors without the proper key, or even by detecting unusual vibrations. Alarms are both a deterrent and a notification system.

Steering Wheel Locks:

Physical deterrents like steering wheel locks can be placed on the steering column to prevent the wheel from turning. Even if a thief manages to start the vehicle, they won't be able to drive it without removing the steering wheel lock.

GPS Tracking:

Some anti-theft systems use GPS technology to track the location of a stolen vehicle. This allows law enforcement to quickly locate and recover the vehicle.

Smart Keys:

Smart keys use advanced technology to communicate with the vehicle. They often employ encryption and rolling codes, which change with each use, making it difficult for thieves to intercept and duplicate the signal.

Electronic Locking Systems:

Electronic locks can be integrated into doors and trunks, controlled by electronic signals from the key fob or other authorized devices.

Interior Sensors:

In addition to exterior sensors, some anti-theft systems have interior sensors that detect movement inside the vehicle. This helps prevent theft of items inside the car and can trigger the alarm if someone is attempting to break in.

By combining these measures, anti-theft systems create layers of protection that deter thieves and make it significantly more challenging for them to gain unauthorized access to a vehicle.

Reasons for False Positives

Anti-theft systems, though highly effective, can occasionally trigger false alarms or false positives.

Sensitivity Settings:

Anti-theft systems often come with adjustable sensitivity settings. If the sensitivity is set too high, the system may interpret normal environmental factors such as strong winds, heavy rain, or loud noises as attempts to break into or tamper with the vehicle.

Environmental Conditions:

Changes in environmental conditions, such as extreme weather, can lead to false positives. For example, sudden temperature changes or fluctuations in humidity might affect the sensors and trigger alarms.

Electromagnetic Interference:

Electronic devices emitting electromagnetic interference, such as radio transmitters or nearby construction equipment, can interfere with the signals of anti-theft systems and cause false alarms.

System Malfunctions:

Like any electronic system, anti-theft systems can experience malfunctions or glitches. Wiring issues, sensor failures, or software bugs may lead to false positives.

Human Error:

User errors, such as accidentally pressing the panic button on the key fob or entering an incorrect code, can trigger false alarms. Additionally, improper installation or maintenance of the anti-theft system can contribute to false positives.

Battery Issues:

Low or failing batteries in the key fob or other components of the anti-theft system may cause communication errors, leading to false alarms.

Vehicle Vibrations:

Certain anti-theft systems use vibration sensors to detect unauthorized access. However, vibrations from passing vehicles, heavy machinery, or even loud music can trigger these sensors and result in false positives.

Animal Interference:

Small animals, such as cats or birds, may inadvertently trigger motion sensors or other detection mechanisms, causing the system to falsely interpret their movement as a security threat.

User Habits:

If the user frequently performs actions that the anti-theft system interprets as suspicious, such as opening doors in a particular sequence, the system might register these patterns as potential threats.

Interference from Other Vehicles:

Some anti-theft systems use frequency signals for communication. Interference from other vehicles with similar systems or nearby electronic devices can lead to false positives.

To minimize false positives, it's crucial for vehicle owners to follow proper system usage guidelines, regularly maintain the anti-theft system, and ensure that environmental factors and user habits are taken into account when setting sensitivity levels. Manufacturers also continually work to improve the reliability of these systems and address potential causes of false alarms through software updates and technological advancements.

Troubleshooting Anti-Theft System Activation

Recognizing signs of anti-theft system activation.

The ability to identify signs indicating that your anti-theft system has activated is vital. 

Dashboard Indicators:

Many vehicles are equipped with a security or anti-theft indicator light on the dashboard. This light is often shaped like a car with a key inside or a similar symbol. If the anti-theft system is activated, this light may flash or remain solid when the vehicle is parked and the ignition is off.

Unresponsive Ignition:

One of the primary features of an anti-theft system is its ability to immobilize the vehicle's ignition. If the system is activated, turning the key or pressing the start button may result in an unresponsive ignition. The engine may not crank, or the vehicle may start but stall immediately.

Alarm Sounds or Flashes:

If your vehicle is equipped with an alarm system as part of the anti-theft measures, you may hear the alarm sound or see external lights flash when the system is triggered. This can be accompanied by honking horns, flashing headlights, or other visible and audible alerts.

Delayed Engine Start:

In some cases, the anti-theft system may cause a delay in the engine start. The vehicle may take longer than usual to start, or there may be a noticeable pause before the engine turns over.

Key Fob Issues:

If your vehicle uses a keyless entry system, the key fob may have indicators such as flashing lights or a change in color when the anti-theft system is activated. Additionally, if there are issues with the key fob or its battery, it may contribute to the activation of the anti-theft system.

Repeated Locking and Unlocking:

Some vehicles have a feature where the doors automatically lock and unlock when the anti-theft system is activated or deactivated. If you observe unusual or repeated locking and unlocking of the doors without user input, it could be a sign of anti-theft system activity.

Security Light Behavior:

Pay attention to the behavior of the security light on the dashboard. If it behaves differently than usual, such as flashing rapidly or staying lit continuously, it may indicate that the anti-theft system is active.

Check the Owner's Manual:

Consult your vehicle's owner's manual for information on the specific indicators and behaviors associated with the anti-theft system. The manual may provide insights into the system's activation signals and troubleshooting steps.

Disabling Anti-Theft Systems without a Key or Remote

Safe practices and ethical considerations.

Before embarking on any measures to disable the anti-theft system, it's crucial to underscore the importance of employing this knowledge responsibly and ethically. It's essential to prioritize safety, security, and compliance with laws and regulations when dealing with vehicle-related matters. Engaging in activities that involve disabling or bypassing security features without proper authorization is not only unethical but may also lead to legal consequences. 

Steps to Temporarily Disable the System for Starting

For those moments when the anti-theft system stubbornly refuses to cooperate, we'll explore safe and non-destructive methods for temporarily disabling it. 

If you are facing issues with your vehicle's anti-theft system, here are general steps you can take, keeping in mind that these might not be applicable to all makes and models. Always refer to your vehicle's user manual or consult with a professional before attempting any troubleshooting:

Consult the User Manual:

Refer to your vehicle's user manual for specific instructions on dealing with the anti-theft system. Manufacturers often provide guidance on what to do in case of issues or malfunctions.

Use the Physical Key:

Some vehicles have a traditional physical key that can be used to unlock the doors manually. Inserting the key into the driver's side door lock and turning it to unlock the door might deactivate the alarm.

Check the Battery:

Ensure that the battery in your key fob is not low or dead. A weak or dead battery might prevent the fob from communicating properly with the vehicle.

Reset the System:

Disconnect the vehicle's battery for a short period (such as 15 minutes) and then reconnect it. This might reset the system. Be aware that disconnecting the battery may cause the loss of other settings, so refer to your user manual for guidance.

Use a Spare Key :

If you have a spare key, try using it to see if the issue is specific to the key itself.

Contact Professional Assistance:

If the anti-theft system is still causing problems, it's advisable to contact the vehicle manufacturer's customer service or a professional automotive lock and key technician for guidance.

Resetting the Anti-Theft System

Why a reset might be necessary.

Resetting an anti-theft system may be necessary for various reasons, including addressing false alarms, malfunctions, or changes in key programming. In cases of false alarms, resetting the system recalibrates sensitivity to prevent unnecessary alerts triggered by factors like environmental conditions or interference. When malfunctions or glitches occur in the electronic system, a reset can clear temporary faults and restore normal functionality. Battery replacements or disconnections may disrupt communication between the system and vehicle components, making a reset necessary to re-establish proper connectivity.

Issues with the key fob, such as low battery or malfunction, can be resolved through a reset, allowing the system to recognize and work with the key fob effectively. Additionally, resetting becomes essential after programming changes, system upgrades or repairs, and in situations involving lost or stolen keys to maintain security integrity. Always refer to the vehicle's user manual or consult with a professional technician for specific reset procedures tailored to your vehicle's make and model.

Methods for Resetting the Anti-Theft System

Resetting the anti-theft system can be approached through various methods, each suited to specific situations. Here are practical ways to reset the system:

Using the Physical Key:

Some vehicles allow you to reset the anti-theft system by using the physical key. Insert the key into the driver's side door lock and turn it to unlock and then lock the door. This process may vary depending on the vehicle make and model.

Consulting the User Manual:

Always refer to the vehicle's user manual for model-specific instructions on resetting the anti-theft system. The manual provides accurate information and step-by-step guidance tailored to your vehicle. Professional Assistance:

If you encounter difficulties or are unsure about resetting the anti-theft system on your own, it's advisable to seek professional assistance. Automotive technicians have the expertise and tools to diagnose and address issues with the anti-theft system without causing unintended problems.

Ensuring Proper Reprogramming After Resetting

Resetting the anti-theft system is just the first step. Reprogramming ensures that the system recognizes authorized keys and operates seamlessly. Follow the specific procedures outlined in your vehicle's user manual to complete the reprogramming process accurately. This step is essential for maintaining the security and functionality of the anti-theft system, preventing unintended inconveniences, and ensuring a smooth and reliable start every time.

How to get car out of anti-theft mode with key? To get a car out of anti-theft mode with a key, insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the "on" position, and wait for the anti-theft system to deactivate, which may take a few minutes.

Steps for resolving anti-theft mode with a key.

Confirm Anti-Theft Mode Activation:

Before attempting any fixes, ensure that your car is indeed in anti-theft mode. Common signs include the car not starting, a flashing security light on your dashboard, or a lack of response when you turn the key. Also, check if you have inadvertently activated the system or if the battery in your key fob is dead.

Use the Car Key to Unlock the Vehicle:

If the vehicle is locked, try unlocking it using the physical key (rather than the remote control). Insert the key into the driver's side door lock and turn it to unlock the door. In some vehicles, this action can disarm the anti-theft system and allow you to start the car.

Start the Car with the Key: 

Some vehicles have a system that recognizes the key's chip or transponder. Insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the 'On' position (without starting the engine), and wait for a few moments. In some cases, this can reset the anti-theft system, allowing you to start the car.

Manually Reset the System: 

In some vehicles, you may need to manually reset the anti-theft system. This often involves turning the key to the 'On' position, waiting for a specific amount of time (as indicated in your car's manual), and then attempting to start the vehicle.

Disconnect and Reconnect the Battery: 

If none of the above steps work, disconnect the car battery for a few minutes. Ensure the negative (black) terminal is disconnected first and then the positive (red) terminal. Reconnect them in reverse order. This action can reset the vehicle's systems, including the anti-theft system.

Seek Professional Help: 

If none of the steps mentioned above resolve the issue, it's advisable to contact your car manufacturer's customer service or a local automotive locksmith for guidance. They may need to provide a unique code or procedure to reset the anti-theft system.

Please note that the effectiveness of these methods may vary depending on your car's make and model. Always refer to your vehicle's owner's manual or contact your car's manufacturer for specific instructions. 

Also, if the anti-theft mode activation is a recurring issue, it's crucial to have your vehicle inspected by a professional to diagnose and address any underlying problems.

Addressing Situations without a Key or Remote

When the key or remote is nowhere to be found, there are alternative solutions. This includes reaching out to the vehicle's manufacturer or dealership and considering towing options to get your car back on the road. 

Ideally, you will always have more than a single key to your vehicle , this can change the cost to resolve this issue by hundreds of dollars if it comes to it. You can make one at out kiosks that can duplicate just about any car key on the spot or have one shipped to you. The cost difference between a kiosk and dealership price for the same car key can differ by close to a thousand dollars. KeyMe Kiosks create affordable car key spares and replacements no matter what kind of car you have. 

Preventive Measures

Prevention is the best cure, and to avoid future anti-theft mode activations, ensuring a smoother and less 

frustrating driving experience. To prevent future anti-theft mode activations and ensure a smooth driving experience, follow these measures: regularly check and replace the key fob battery, handle keys with care, understand and adhere to user manual instructions, avoid leaving valuables visible in the vehicle, secure all doors and windows before leaving, be mindful of environmental conditions that may trigger the system, schedule regular maintenance checks, keep a spare key accessible, update software and firmware as advised by the manufacturer, and consider additional security measures such as steering wheel locks. Incorporating these practices will help minimize the risk of anti-theft system activations and enhance overall vehicle security. 

When in doubt or when permanent disabling is contemplated, always seek the assistance of a qualified professional. Our vehicles are not just modes of transportation; they are valuable assets that require protection and care. Understanding how to navigate potential issues ensures a smoother and less frustrating experience on the road. 

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2003 chrysler voyager anti theft alarm wont turn off

I disconnected the battery to reset the the check engine light and when I reconnected it the horn went off and the lights started flashing. It has manual door locks and windows. I have to open the back dooto get it to shut off. When I open the door again it goes off again. The van didnt come with a key fob. How do I shut it off permanetly?

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• 19396 Answers
• Posted on Aug 19, 2008

SOURCE: car alarm preventing car from starting

Try removing the alarm system relay, some car alarm has also a fuse on the alarm that you can remove. Many car alarms unlock by inserting and turning car key while you connect the battery.

• Not Helpful
• Posted on Nov 25, 2008

1999 CONCORDE: check the battery terminals probably they are not tight enough...something like that happened to me just the lights turned on and the car seemed to be dead, the battery is still ok since then. I just needed to buy new terminals.

• Posted on Apr 14, 2009

SOURCE: Anti-theft system seems to have been activated?

Some months ago I began starting the engine of my 2001 Chrysler 300M but turned it of before it really started "was sloppy with the key". The anti-theft system went on for some unknown reason. I disarmed it by disconnecting one of the battery connections under the hood with a wrench. I connected it again, the anti-theft system was off but the battery was dead. Battery was OK after recharging, I have had no trouble since then.

Robert Debison

• 412 Answers
• Posted on Jun 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager. Central locking

the body control module may need a software update..check with your local dealer

• Posted on Jun 14, 2009

SOURCE: 2006 Criuser won't start and intrusion alarm can't be stopped

YOUR WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE(SENTRY KEY MODULE)MAY BE ELECTRICALLY LOCKED UP..THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN FROM CHRYSLER..YOU CAN REMOVE IOD FUSE IN FUSEBLOCK(UNDERHOOD BEHIND AIR CLEANER..IGNITION OFF DRAW(IOD)THIS WILL RESET WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE AND VEHICLE SHOULD START AND LOCKS RESPOND AGAIN..IF IT DOES,THE WCM WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED AND THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE BY DEALER

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How to reset the Chrysler Town & Country immobilizer system

What does the immobilizer system on a chrysler town & country do, what can trigger the chrysler immobilizer system, can the chrysler town & country immobilizer system lower your insurance rate, how to save on chrysler town & country insurance, is this article helpful so far, how to program a new key fob.

• Low battery : The Chrysler Town & Country’s immobilizer system can incorrectly activate upon turning the ignition. If this happens, your battery is likely running low.
• Non-functional key fob : A key fob that’s not working properly can set off the Town & Country’s security system.
• Poor hood-latch connection : If your hood's latch connection is faulty or broken, this can cause a false alarm.
• Corroded or rusted battery terminals : If your minivan’s battery terminals are corroded, the battery won’t work correctly. This can potentially set the alarm off.
• Wiring problems : If a Town & Country’s wiring is faulty or damaged, the alarm can be set off accidentally. Your headlights will likely flash and the horn will be blaring, too.
• Faulty control module : A malfunctioning electronic control module can send mixed signals to the minivan’s various components, including setting the security system off.
• Sitting on your key fob : Believe it or not, this can accidentally trigger the Town & Country’s security system.
• Accidentally pressing the panic button : Beware of pressing the wrong button on your key fob.

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Chrysler skim (sentry key theft deterrent system) initialization guide.

June 24, 2019 auto Auto Repair 0

This instruction show a guide on how to perform SKIM initialization for Chrysler vehicles .The model years and vehicles must be equipped (optional) with Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System (SKIM) (sales code GXX) for this bulletin to apply.   And for more about Chrysler,check here: Chrysler Repair Projects

2001 – 2004 (AN) Dakota

2004 – 2005 (CS) Pacifica

2001 – 2003 (DN) Durango

2002 – 2005 (DR) Ram Truck

2004 – 2005 (HB) Durango

1999 – 2000 (JA) Breeze/Cirrus/Stratus

2001 – 2005 (JR) Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan

1998 – 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible

2002 – 2005 (KJ) Liberty

1999 – 2004 (LH) 300M/Concorde/Intrepid/LHS

2005 (LX) 300/Magnum

2005 (ND) Dakota

2000 – 2005 (PL) Neon/SX 2.0

2001 – 2005 (PT) Chrysler PT Cruiser/Chrysler PT Cruiser Convertible

2001 – 2005 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

2001 – 2005 (ST) Sebring Coupe/Stratus Coupe

1998 – 2005 (TJ) Wrangler

2004 – 2005 (VA) Sprinter

1999 – 2004 (WJ) Grand Cherokee

2005 (WK) Grand Cherokee

1999 – 2001 (XJ) Cherokee

2005 (ZB) Viper

2004 – 2004 (ZH) Crossfire Coupe/Crossfire Roadster

THIS PROCEDURE APPLIES TO ALL LISTED VEHICLES EXCEPT SEBRING COUPE/STRATUS COUPE (ST), CROSSFIRE, AND SPRINTER.

When a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is replaced on vehicles equipped with the Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System (SKIM), it must be initialized to properly function with the anti-theft module. This is accomplished at a Chrysler Group Dealer by using the DRBIII or StarSCAN Scan Tool to enter a PIN number.

When the PIN number is not available from the vehicle owner this can be accomplished by writing the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) into the PCM using the “VIN Write Function”.

NOTE:  After performing this procedure on vehicles equipped with Chrysler Group’s Next Generation Controller (NGC), Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) “P0633 – SKIM SECRET KEY DATA NOT STORED IN PCM” will be set. This DTC will not affect vehicle or system performance and cannot be erased.

SEBRING COUPE/STRATUS COUPE(ST)

Initializing the PCM on these vehicles requires the use of a Daimler Chrysler scan tool (DRBIII), J1962 MMC Cable, and ST22 PCMCIA Diagnostic Card. This equipment is available for lease from DaimlerChrysler for short periods of time. To lease the DRBIII call 1-800-801-5420. A credit card deposit will be required.

The DRBIII will be shipped within 24 hours to your location by an overnight delivery service. When the DRBIII is returned, your credit card will be charged the lease price.

PCM INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE CROSSFIRE/SPRINTER:

1.Before replacing the PCM, with the ignition switch in the “RUN” position, determine the part number of the PCM software. Connect the CH9043 MUX Cable, and the DRBIII(with the CH9044 Crossfire Software card or CH 9087 Sprinter Software card plugged into it); to the vehicle. Using the DRBIII select:

a.“DRBIII Standalone”

b.“1998-2005 Diagnostics”

c.Make the appropriate selection: “2004-2005 Crossfire” or “2003-2004 Sprinter”

d.“System Select”

f.Record the ten(10) character “P/N” on the repair order for later reference.

2.Open TechAUTHORITY. TechAUTHORITY is available on the internet, www.techauthority.com

3.At the “Home” page, open the “Powertrain Control Module Initialization” link.

4.Open the “Coding String Calculator for Sprinter & Crossfire Vehicles” link.

5.Open the “Select Module” pull down menu and select “PCM”.

6.Select the appropriate “Transmission Type” button(Manual or Automatic).

7.Carefully enter the 17 character VIN.

8.Carefully enter the PCM software p/n recorded on the repair order in Step 1.

9.Select the “Calculate” button at the bottom of the window.

NOTE:  TechAUTHORITY will automatically populate the “Coding String”, “SCN”, and “CheckSum” information.

10.Print the information from the technician’s PC.

11.Using the DRBIII select:

a.“1.DRBIII Standalone”

b.“1.1998-2005 Diagnostics”

c.Make the appropriate selection: “5.2004-2005 Crossfire” or “6.2003-2004 Sprinter”

d.“1.System Select”

e.“1.Engine”

f.“9.Miscellaneous Functions”

g“6.Read PCM Coding”

h.Verify that the PCM coding string on the DRBIII matches the coding string on the sheet printed from the technician’s PC.

NOTE:  The SCN on the DRBIII may not match with the SCN Printed from the technician’s PC. This is OK.

12.Turn ignition switch to the “LOCK” position.

PCM INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE SEBRING COUPE/STRATUS COUPE(ST):

1.Perform the “Registration Procedure” described in service bulletin 08-036-04. This service bulletin, including the password, is available on the internet at: www.techauthority.com under the “Powertrain Control Module Initialization” link

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• 4th Generation Chrysler Minivans: 2001-2007

2002 T&C anti theft problem

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We bought this van used and only have one key and do not the owners manual. During the course of getting it road ready the battery went dead. Now its been recharged however when the doors are opened or FOB used the alarm sounds and will not cut off until its started. We've tried several things we read online however it still is tripping the alarm. Any help? TIA.  

Is this the factory alarm, or is there an aftermarket alarm system installed? Have you tried removing one of the battery terminals, and touching the clamps together, and trying again? Also, have you tried pulling the IOD fuse for a few seconds and then re-inserting and trying again?  

It is the factory alarm and I did remove the fuse but it didnt solve the problem. I'll try the battery like you suggested and get back to you...thanks for responding.  

Nothing worked...  

Try removing and cleaning the hood button switch... I know it sounds like a long shot, but I remember having some funky alarm system problem and after I did that it seemed to get better and I have not had to address it since. Then I suggested it over a year ago to another poster, and if I remember correctly, that seemed to work for them too. I do have a remaining intermittent alarm fault, where occasionally when I open the door with the key, it will set of the alarm (usually when I am trying to sneak away from the wife in the middle of the night or a crime scene...) Sometime when I am in the door, I'll look into cleaning the door lock cylinder switch ( I don't know for sure it has one, but assume so) Please let us know if anything works... It is your feedback that gives us closure and helps us to help others. Cheers!  

Nope didnt work...I read somewhere that this model T&C came with two keys...one grey which was chipped and one black which was not....I also read you can reset the alarm with the chipped key by using the door locks or the ignition....of course we bought this van used and only have the black key....has anyone heard this before? TIA.  

I am wondering about this 'black key'. There is another antitheft device where a key that does not have a transponder(chip), can not start the vehicle. So possibly, even though your key is black in color, it may be an aftermarket transponder key. Can you post a picture of your black key so it may be identified? I too have a used vehicle but my van came with three gray Chrysler keys and two remote fobs. It is my understanding that you must have a minimum of two 'master' keys to be able to program another transponder key as a user. Otherwise, you must have a dealer with the DRBII scan tool program additional keys. Remember, I believe that the van is programmed to know the transponder key, not that the key is programmed to the van.  

Unfortunately, the best way to diagnose this issue is probably with the DRB III scan tool. There is a whole section in the service manual (the "body" section) that lists all of the error conditions the DRB III can detect (open or shorted circuits, etc), that you would use in combination with the wiring diagrams to narrow down what is happening. That being said, it is strange that the problem appeared only after the battery went dead. Not sure if that might just be coincidence or not. It's always possible that the BCM went bad. It would also be good to read the "Vehicle Theft Security" section of the factory service manual, as it explains the theory of operation behind the "Vehicle Theft Security System" ("VTSS"). A few random tidbits from there: "The electronics for the VTSS are part of the Body Control Module (BCM). The system is armed when the vehicle is locked using the: - Power door lock switches (with any door ajar) - Remote Keyless Entry Transmitted - Door Cylinder Lock Switches" "After the VTSS is armed, the following actions will trigger the alarm: - Opening any door - Opening the hood - Turning the ignition to the ON, ACC, or UNLOCK position - Opening liftgate without first receiving a RKE input or liftgate key input" "Passive disarming occurs upon normal vehicle entry by unlocking either door with the ignition key/remote transmitter. This disarming will also halt the alarm once it has been activated" So it is very strange that using the RKE causes the alarm to trigger, as this is normally suppose to disarm or stop the alarm. Another random thought is perhaps this might be something to do with the IPM (Integrated Power Module... basically, the circuitry built into the fuse/relay box), which is a known problem with the early 4th gen vans. Here is a link to a thread from last year detailing my experience fixing the IPM in my 01: https://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/161442-2001-Town-and-Country-IPM-fun  

Have you tried re-programming the RKE (remote keyless entry) to try to re-sync the van to the wireless keyfobs? Wondering if this might reset something and stop the alarm from sounding when the keyfob is used. (1) Using a functional key fob transmitter, unlock the vehicle and disarm the Vehicle Theft/Security System. (2) Insert ignition key into the ignition switch. (3) Turn the ignition switch to RUN position without starting engine. (4) Using a functional key fob transmitter, press and hold the UNLOCK button for a minimum five seconds (maximum ten seconds) (5) While sill holding UNLOCK button, and before ten seconds passes, press the PANIC button and release both at the same time. A single chime will sound to verify that the RKE module is set to receive the new Vehicle Access Code(s) (6) Within 30 seconds of the chime, press and release the "LOCK" and "UNLOCK" buttons on the transmitter at the same time. Then press any one of the buttons. The BCM will sound an abbreviated chime to acknowledge that the programming of the transmitter has been completed and was successful. (7) Repeat step 6 for all transmitters that will be used with this vehicle (up to 4 total). (8) Programming mode will last for 30 seconds. To get out of programming mode sooner, turn the ignition OFF. A single chime will sound to verify that the RKE module will no longer accept addition Vehicle Access Code(s) (9) When Vehicle Access Code(s) programming is complete, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and verify RKE system operaiton using each key fob.  

Thanks guys...been super busy so Im just getting on the new messages you guys sent....Ill get going on them today and let you all know something soon...thanks a lot.  

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My 2005 300 anti theft system how do i reset i

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Anti theft alarm is on and my car wont start how do i reset it?  

Its a 2005 300 v6  

No i pushed one of the buttons on the key while starting the car and this what happened  

Did you just have a new key made or anything like that? Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk  

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How to reset anti theft?

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The alarm/anti theft was triggered last night and I can't get my jeep to start. I've read something about the drivers door lock, problem is that this one is broken, I've read about a key/door lock sequence and I've read about a reset by disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours. Anyone ever had to do this?  

IIRC you need to lock/unlock the rear hatch to reset. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.  

With the key?  

Use the key to unlock the rear hatch or passenger door, it resets the alarm too. If successful, you'll see the dome light illuminate.  

Confirmed, I've had to do this for a while on the passenger door since I lost the keyfob. You'll also know you're successful when the alarm doesn't go bonkers lol.  

rotate the gauge light dimmer switch on the turn signal switch, to the off position. this will also prevent interior lights from coming on, when doors are opened.  

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How to Reset a Factory Car Alarm

Last Updated: April 19, 2024 References

This article was co-authored by Audra Fordin . Audra Fordin is a Certified Automotive Technician, the Founder of Women Auto Know, and the Owner of Great Bear Auto Repair in Flushing, New York. With more than 38 years of experience, she has intensive knowledge about foreign and domestic auto repairs. Audra has been featured on numerous news and talk shows such as The Today Show, Inside Edition, and Anderson Cooper. There are 9 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 1,174,634 times.

Although helpful, car alarms often seem like more of a nuisance than an aid. They go off unpredictably, refuse to turn off, and startle the entire neighborhood. Because the safety of your vehicle is important, you can learn a few methods to troubleshoot car-alarm issues. With a few simple processes, you can ensure both the safety and function of your vehicle.

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Resetting a Factory Car Alarm

• Put the key in the driver's door and turn it twice to the right, then twice to the left. Then insert your key into the ignition and start the car. [4] X Research source
• Turn the key into the unlock position and hold it for two seconds before opening the door.

• If it is more easily accessible you can also unplug the wiring harness that connects to the car's horn or siren. If the horn or siren gets unplugged it can no longer make noise.

• If you cannot locate the alarm fuse right away, remove fuses to see if the alarm will stop. Doing this will not cause damage to the car, but make sure you return the fuses after you've determined they are not for the alarm.
• Some car alarms, when tampered with, prevent a car from starting as an anti-theft function. If you remove the fuse and cannot start the vehicle, you will have to take the car to a mechanic or dealer.

Factory car alarms often have simple reset protocols to help turn off an alarm. Most rely on using the key in the door — simply put, cycling the key to the lock and unlock positions can reset many alarms.

Disabling a Car Alarm

• Control unit. This part is often referred to as the brain because it functions as the command center for the system.
• Alarm transmitter. This comes in two forms: key-chain remote or the key.
• Sensors. Alarms vary and can get complex with various sensors such as pressure, door, or window sensors.
• Siren. Alarms need some type of warning signal; some systems have their own siren component while others are wired to car stereo.
• Wires. Wires connect the siren to the control unit, the control unit to the fuses, and the control unit to the sensors. [6] X Research source

• Pull the wire of the siren. This will silence the alarm and might be a good temporary fix before seeking professional assistance.
• Remove the control unit. If you pull out the brain, there will be no alarm in the car. However, depending on the way your car alarm was set up, this might disable your vehicle from starting.

Troubleshooting Alarm Issues

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Turn the key to on position.
• Reattach the negative battery terminal.
• Turn the key to off position.
• Start the car. [8] X Research source

• DIP Switches: These are a series of toggles that control how much electricity runs through the sensors. Turning a few off will make your alarm system less touchy. These are built into the main control unit of the alarm system.
• Rheostat: Using a small screwdriver, you can loosen up a bolt that adjusts the resistance in the sensor, making it more or less sensitive. These sensors are mounted externally. [9] X Research source

Expert Q&A

• Only disconnect your alarm or battery as a last resort. You want your alarm there when you need it. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• When working with any car electronics, the battery should be disconnected as a safety measure. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

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• ↑ Audra Fordin. Certified Automotive Technician. Expert Interview. 13 January 2022.
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw6sS-bmlj0
• ↑ https://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Honda/HONDA%20Security%20System%20Operating%20Instructions%20(CR-V%2002-06,%20Pilot%2005-07,%20and%20Element%2003-07).pdf
• ↑ https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/56ors-toyota-camry-xle-can-t-reset-car-alarm-charging.html#re.v/175/
• ↑ https://www.streetfightermotorsports.com/blog/anatomy-car-alarm/
• ↑ https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1147&context=eesp
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHUYpigP9YY
• ↑ https://www.justanswer.com/ford/164lr-reset-car-alarm-replacing-battery.html#re.v/175/
• ↑ https://www.autos.com/aftermarket-parts/car-alarm-programming-basics

About This Article

To reset a factory car alarm, first try pressing the “panic” button on your remote if you have one. If that doesn’t do it, put your key in the driver’s door in the unlock position, hold it for 2 seconds, then open the door. Alternatively, put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice to the right, then twice to the left, then put your key in the ignition and start your car. Still having a problem? You can disconnect your car battery to stop the alarm, then reconnect it after a minute or two to reset the alarm. For information on how to disable your car alarm, scroll down! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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Anti-theft Reset Process

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Howdy, Two days ago my truck (2004 Ram 5.9) had the door handle jimmied while my wife was at work. When she came out and hit the unlock on the key fob it set off the panic button. She noticed the door and when she attempted to start the truck it would attempt to crank just wouldn't fire up. I had no clue and thought we may have a dead battery, that led to a couple of close to starting occurrences but it would immediately die. I finally had the truck towed home to try and root cause. After checking batteries, starter, lift pump, fuses/relays, read more that leads me to believe it may be the anti-theft system. Was hoping someone has run into this issue and has success stories for how to reset your anti-theft. I've tried a few different internet suggestions with no luck. Also, there was one where a code could be provided through the radio but 1) the door lock will not manually work with the key, and 2) I have an aftermarket radio and not sure if that's an issue. Any help is greatly appreciated!  

Is your truck a 2004.0 or a 2004.5? Where is the coolant overflow tank located? In 2004, the SKIM/RFID security system was an option. Do you have the original ignition keys? Are they black or grey? Black keys means it does NOT have the SKIM security system. If it has grey ignition keys, have you tried the other ignition key? Regardless, the 2004 Skim system will let the truck start, run for about 5 seconds and then shutoff if a proper SKIM/RFID key is NOT detected. Since that is not what you have, I don't think you have a SKIM issue, even if your truck has the SKIM system. You could try to disconnect both batteries, leave it for a bit to reset all the truck's modules. DTC's? OBDII scanner or turn the ignition key off/on 3 times and DTC's will display in the dash cluster. Lift pump fuel pressure? If you don't have a lift pump fuel pressure gauge, put a bucket under the fuel filter cannister drain. Open the drain and bump the ignition key. Fuel should really shoot out of the drain into the bucket.  

StealthDiesel said: Is your truck a 2004.0 or a 2004.5? Where is the coolant overflow tank located? 2004.0, front left of radiator In 2004, the SKIM/RFID security system was an option. Do you have the original ignition keys? Are they black or grey? Black keys means it does NOT have the SKIM security system. If it has grey ignition keys, have you tried the other ignition key? I have the original keys, both are grey. I had a single key as well but lost that long ago, it was grey as well. I have tried both keys. Regardless, the 2004 Skim system will let the truck start, run for about 5 seconds and then shutoff if a proper SKIM/RFID key is NOT detected. Since that is not what you have, I don't think you have a SKIM issue, even if your truck has the SKIM system. You could try to disconnect both batteries, leave it for a bit to reset all the truck's modules. When I pulled the batteries to have them tested I left them out all night, still nada. DTC's? OBDII scanner or turn the ignition key off/on 3 times and DTC's will display in the dash cluster. So it does have a couple of codes that popped: P0628 Fuel Pump "A" Control Circuit Low (not sure if this is related to having a FASS system installed?) Sentry Key Remote Entry Module Codes (did find these odd related to the sentry key, not sure how related) - LF Wheel Sensor Signal Error - LF Sensor Continuity Failure Lift pump fuel pressure? If you don't have a lift pump fuel pressure gauge, put a bucket under the fuel filter cannister drain. Open the drain and bump the ignition key. Fuel should really shoot out of the drain into the bucket. Click to expand...

Newbies guide to your new to you truck

Quick Update: so took it to a local shop who specializes in vehicle electronics. What has been found is that yes they damaged the door lock cylinder sensor, which seems could be bypassed, but the bigger issue is they damaged the Ignition Immobilizer Module. The kicker with this is that Dodge no longer supports/manufactures these parts. Yes, we may be able to find one online or at the junkyard, but would hate to be in this situation again. Wondering if there are aftermarket options to replace this technology as I plan to keep this truck long-term.  

03-04 are special. Need DRBIII or equivlent scanner that read/write ECM/EMIC(cluster) remove OEM security . As far as alarms plenty of aftermarket options just need to research for your budget /needs.  

It's hard to help the OP as he hasn't really answered any of the questions asked...  

Stealth - I jacked up the response to your questions in post #3, one was answered outside of the quote, the others inside. Sorry about that. Let me know if that info is what you needed.  

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Re-setting trip 2 display on C7 Moscow plus

• Thread starter Silvercat
• Start date Apr 9, 2021
• Apr 9, 2021

Hi, Anyone having problems re-setting trip 2 to zero? For trip 1, it always works flawlessly by holding ‘set’ button for a few seconds. But, when I try that for trip 2, it rarely works until I play with it many times (ie. I keep holding down that set button, after quickly clicking on it twice. I usually need to repeat that several times before trip 2 goes to zero). Annoying to say the least. Maybe I am missing something here? Thanks!  

Active Member

Lol, might need to check your manual. Pages 23/24 of my Moscow Plus manual. "Press the SET button for 2 seconds to clear Trip 1" "Trip 2 shows the previous riding distance for 30s after tthe display is turned on; it can be reset automatically to start to record the current session’s mileage" So you can clear Trip 1 with the set button but Trip 2 clears automatically after a timeout and is meant to record the current sessions mileage. I had the same "issue" as you until I spotted this.  

Bitmugger said: Lol, might need to check your manual. Pages 23/24 of my Moscow Plus manual. "Press the SET button for 2 seconds to clear Trip 1" "Trip 2 shows the previous riding distance for 30s after tthe display is turned on; it can be reset automatically to start to record the current session’s mileage" So you can clear Trip 1 with the set button but Trip 2 clears automatically after a timeout and is meant to record the current sessions mileage. I had the same "issue" as you until I spotted this. Click to expand...

I mean if you turn the C7 display on, it will show the trip 2 odometer reading for 30 seconds then automatically reset to zero on it's own. No button presses needed.  

Hi, Thanks! Sounds so simple. I will try. Feel foolish re all the many times I was double clicking and pressing and holding the set button. Thanks again!  

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I just had (another) expensive electric bike stolen. Here’s what would have stopped it

E-bike theft is rampant. Simply put, electric bicycles are prime targets for thieves. They’re readily available, they’re easy to flip, and they’re often quite expensive. Mine was, and now it’s not mine any more thanks to some scumbag bike thief. 

The worst part is that there are several simple things I failed to do that could have saved my bike. Please learn from my mistakes and protect your own e-bike properly so you don’t experience the same heartache as me.

To be honest, I really should have known better. In fact, I did know better. I’ve written about e-bike anti-theft articles before . I’ve reviewed high-security locks . The problem is that I broke several of my own rules. A classic “do as I say, not as I do” situation.

And thus, I made it too easy for a thief to make off with my Priority Current electric bike . It’s not the first e-bike I’ve had stolen; I live in a big city where bike theft is common. But it’s the most expensive one yet. And it’s the one that I was most attached to, having bought it after performing a review on it and falling in love with the bike.

Hopefully you’ve never had that awful feeling of returning to where you left your bike parked, only to find the bike missing and your broken lock on the ground. 

This time I had the displeasure of getting that feeling secondhand, as I was out of the country when my wife texted me a picture of my broken lock in the spot where my bike normally resides. She didn’t mince words either, bless her heart. “The bike was stolen.”

The fact that I said broken “lock” and not “locks” is likely the first clue to what went wrong. And it’s the first major anti-theft tip for bikes – especially expensive electric bikes.

1. Never use only one lock

The only time I generally only use a single lock is when I’m locking for just a minute or two while I run into a store. Any time I leave my bike for more than a few minutes, I generally use two locks. It’s not that two locks makes your bike twice as safe, but it does still improve your chances of not getting stolen for two main reasons: It takes a thief longer to actually do the work, and it means that the thief is more likely to choose a different bike to target that only has one lock.

The best method is to use two different types of locks. Combine a U-lock with a chain lock .

Lock them to two different anchors, if possible. If not, make damn sure it’s a strong anchor.

Shake a street sign before you lock to it and ensure it’s solidly in the concrete sidewalk. Kick a bike rack and make sure it’s bolted down securely. Push on a fence post and see if it’s sturdy. But whatever you do, use more than one lock of different types.

My mistake was laziness. I used a somewhat simple chain lock , and opted for one that was quick and convenient for me since I could wear it like a belt. And the main problem is that I only used one . Adding one of my U-locks would have only taken a bit more time but would have significantly increased my bike’s security. I kept the bike in a locked garage and counted on the garage door being my second lock, in this case. But that isn’t good enough.

(Edit: For what it’s worth, that was a 4-digit combination mechanism, not a 3-digit.)

2. Park next to nicer bikes than yours

This isn’t guaranteed to work, but it doesn’t hurt to give thieves shinier targets. Just like how two locks makes your bike less attractive, more expensive bikes next to yours also make your bike less attractive by comparison.

I parked my bike in a locked parking garage next to seven or eight other bikes. Mine was definitely the nicest and most expensive of the bunch.

That’s thief bait, right there.

Damn, my cheap neighbors.

3. Take your battery with you so it isn’t stolen

I didn’t take my battery with me. I was lazy. I left it on the bike instead of carrying it upstairs to my apartment. “It’s in a locked garage,” I thought to myself. “It’ll be fine.”

I would bring it up once a week or so to charge, but usually I left it on the bike so each morning I could easily come down to my bike and start my ride without having to deal with carrying the battery.

If the bike had been without the battery, the thief would have been less interested in it. Finding that battery would mean ordering it directly from the company, which is expensive and a hassle.

It was stupid of me, but I left the very expensive battery on my expensive bike, and now the thief has both.

4. Take your entire damn bike inside

Even better than taking your battery with you is taking your bike with you to prevent it from being stolen. No lock is theft-proof. With the right tools, every single one can be broken or picked, and most both. The best way to not have your bike stolen is to not let thieves have access to it.

Again, this was basically laziness on my part. I could have brought the bike into the elevator and up to my apartment. But I didn’t, because that would have been annoying to do each day. 

And here we are now.

If you have the ability to do so, take your bike indoors. It’s safest there. If a thief is able to get into your home, you have bigger problems to worry about than your e-bike. 

In my case, I was out of the country on a press trip and should have been even more careful about leaving my bike outside of my apartment. I had assumed that the locked parking garage of my apartment building was safe enough, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. It’s easy enough to tailgate in and back out, which is likely what the thief did.

5.  Don’t establish a routine

There are two types of bike thefts: Thefts of opportunity and targeted attacks. The former is where a thief stumbles upon an easy lift and decides to go for it in the moment. The latter is where a thief watches a good target over several days or weeks, then plans the attack method and time for maximum result.

I can’t be sure which was the case for my bike, but I parked it in the same spot every day. And that’s a big no-no. It makes it too easy for a thief to take their time and plan the best attack. They can come back at a good time and with the right tool to break my lock when no one is around.

If you have to lock outdoors, you should always mix it up. Park in different locations, even if it means walking a couple more minutes to your destination. Ideally use different locks if you have them. Do what you can to make sure there’s no discernible routine.

That’s just good sense for personal security in general. Don’t drive the same route to work everyday. Don’t walk home the same way everyday. Don’t stop at the same coffee shop at the same time everyday. Don’t establish a routine that can make it easy for an attacker to profile you and victimize you. And that goes double for your bike.

6. Install a tracker on your e-bike

There are plenty of good GPS trackers out there that can be easily hidden on a bike to prevent it from being stolen. Many are cleverly disguised as bike parts. Even a thief looking for them likely wouldn’t recognize where they were hidden.

The only problem with GPS trackers is that they are expensive, and many require monthly subscriptions or a SIM card with its own monthly fee. But now with Apple AirTags (or the somewhat less effective Tile trackers), it’s cheap and easy to put a tracker on your e-bike. It won’t work as well as true GPS, but in a crowded city like mine with hundreds of thousands of iPhones walking around creating a network of AirTag locators, it would have been easy to pinpoint my bike.

The kicker is I even had AirTags. I had just bought a four-pack and was even planning on putting one on my bike. I already hid one in my motorcycle and sewed another into my backpack. I just hadn’t gotten around to figuring out a good place to hide on my bike yet. 

If you have an AirTag already, take the time to find a good place for it. They’re a bit tricky to hide, but some black duct tape could make it part of the underside of the saddle in a pinch, and many dumb thieves won’t take the time to look for it. If you’re handy you could probably slice and incision into your saddle, slip it in and then repair the saddle. Many e-bikes have wide enough frame tubes that you could likely slip one in there. Some e-bikes even have a built-in place for AirTags already. Juiced’s new e-bike batteries also have an AirTag spot built into the case.

There are even cool AirTag holders for bikes disguised as bike bells and bike reflectors .

Take the time to put a tracker on your bike. A $25 tracker is a great investment, especially for an expensive e-bike.

7. Consider e-bike insurance

There are plenty of bike insurance companies that specialize in this stuff. 

You can also potentially have your bike covered under your homeowners’ or renters’ insurance. 

Some locks even offer insurance for stolen bikes if you register your lock with the company immediately after purchasing.

Of course, I didn’t do any of that.

Keep it in perspective

Ultimately, try to keep things in perspective. If you’re the victim of bike theft, it feels awful and you want to lash out. But try to turn the situation into a positive. Learn from your mistake so it doesn’t happen again. Or better yet, learn from my mistakes.

That doesn’t mean it doesn’t still suck. Yeah, I dream of nut-punting that bike thief so hard he chokes on them. But that doesn’t bring my bike back.

In the future though, hopefully this reminds that I should walk the walk instead of just talking the talk when it comes to locking my own bikes.

Any one of these mistakes I made, if rectified, could have meant that my bike still would have been there in the morning. 

Take a good look at the way you lock your bike up and make sure you don’t fail where I did. If my sad story prevents a few people from having their own sad story, then at least the result is some net good in the world.

In the meantime, I’ll be scanning the local for sale ads for my bike. Maybe I’ll get to score that nut punt after all.

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Micah Toll is a personal electric vehicle enthusiast, battery nerd, and author of the Amazon #1 bestselling books DIY Lithium Batteries , DIY Solar Power,   The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide  and The Electric Bike Manifesto .

The e-bikes that make up Micah’s current daily drivers are the $999 Lectric XP 2.0 , the $1,095 Ride1Up Roadster V2 , the $1,199 Rad Power Bikes RadMission , and the $3,299 Priority Current . But it’s a pretty evolving list these days.

You can send Micah tips at [email protected], or find him on Twitter , Instagram , or TikTok .

Micah Toll's favorite gear

Lectric XP 3.0 e-bike sale

Best $999 electric bike ever!

Rad Power Bikes sales

Great e-bikes at great prices!

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All about cars

Gelik: what kind of car is this?

Very often on television or radio you can hear the word "Gelik". Remember at least the famous TV series "Fizruk", where the hero of Dmitry Nagiyev rides Gelika. Well, on Yotube you can find the popular clip "Gelik Vani".

Gelik is the abbreviated name for Gelendvagen, that is, the Mercedes-Benz G-class model. Gelendvagen literally translates from German as "off-road vehicle". Also, this model is often referred to simply as "Cube" because of its characteristic body shape.

There is even a certain similarity between the Russian UAZ-451 or the more advanced UAZ-Hunter, which we previously covered on Vodi.su, and the Mercedes-Benz G-Class. True, this similarity is only external, since Gelik is significantly superior to UAZ in all respects:

• comfort level;
• specifications;
• and, of course, the price.

Although both cars were originally developed for the needs of the army, and only then became available to a wider range of motorists.

History of creation

First of all, it must be said that the Gelendvagen is only sold under the Mercedes-Benz brand. In fact, it is produced in Austria at the factories of Magna Steyr. This company, in turn, belongs to the Canadian corporation Magna International, one of the world's leading manufacturers of spare parts for almost all car brands.

Magna Steyr is the world's largest car manufacturer that does not have its own brand.

In addition to Gelendvagens, they produce here:

• Mercedes-Benz E-class;
• Saab 9-3 Convertible;
• Jeep Grand Cherokee;
• some of the Chrysler models, such as the Chrysler Voyager.

The company produces approximately 200-250 thousand cars a year.

Gelendvagen in the civilian version first rolled off the assembly line in 1979, and since then its characteristic body shape has not changed at all, which cannot be said about the exterior and technical characteristics.

The very first Gelik is the Mercedes-Benz W460. It was adopted by various law enforcement agencies and the army. It was produced in two versions: for 3 or 5 doors. Designed for 4-5 people. The armored version was delivered specifically to the Norwegian armed forces.

Specifications:

• four-wheel drive;
• the length of the wheelbase varied between 2400-2850 millimeters;
• a wide selection of different versions of the power unit - gasoline, diesel, turbodiesel with a volume of two to three liters.

The most powerful engine - 280 GE M110, had a volume of 2,8 liters, developed a power of 156 hp, ran on gasoline. Later, a modification of the Mercedes-Benz W461 appeared with a three-liter turbodiesel with a capacity of 184 hp. This model (G 280/300 CDI Professional) was produced until 2013, however, in a limited edition.

Geländewagen in Russian car dealerships

If you have a desire to proudly call yourself the “owner of Gelik”, so that everyone turns around when you are driving, then, unfortunately, just wanting is not enough. You need to have at least another 6 rubles. That is how much the cheapest new Geländewagen G-700 d costs.

The prices for the Mercedes G-class SUVs presented in car dealerships at the beginning of 2017 are as follows:

• G 350 d - 6,7 million rubles;
• G 500 - 8 rubles;
• G 500 4 × 4 - 19 million 240 thousand;
• Mercedes-AMG G 63 - 11,6 million rubles.

Well, for the most expensive copy of the AMG special series - the Mercedes-AMG G 65 - you will have to pay as much as 21 million 50 thousand rubles. Indeed, only very wealthy people can afford this pleasure. True, reading the news about street racers on Gelendvagens, one gets the impression that there are quite a lot of such wealthy people in Moscow.

All presented cars are equipped with 4Matic all-wheel drive. Only automatic transmissions are installed on them:

• Automatic transmission 7G-TRONIC PLUS - with its help, the driver can easily switch, for example, from seventh gear to fifth;
• AMG SPEEDSHIFT PLUS 7G-TRONIC automatic transmission - for comfortable driving, three gearshift modes are installed here: Controlled efficiency, Sport, Manual mode.

You can choose from both petrol and diesel engines. The G 500 and AMG G 63 are equipped with an 8-valve gasoline engine with a volume of 4 liters (421 hp) and 5,5 liters. (571 hp). For the AMG G 65 model, a super-powerful 12-liter 6-valve unit has been developed, which develops 630 hp. at 4300-5600 rpm. And the speed is limited to 230 km / h.

The diesel engine for the cheapest Gelendvagen G 350 d has a volume of 3 liters, while its power is 180 kW at 3600 rpm, that is, approximately 244 hp. (we already talked about how to convert Kilowatts to hp on Vodi.su). As you can see, even the most affordable model has excellent characteristics.

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