2015 dodge journey ball joint replacement

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• Brake, Chassis & Suspension

Replacing Ball Joint

By seanton August 15, 2017 in Brake, Chassis & Suspension

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Has anybody here had luck changing lower ball joints ? I had tried to change one a few months back but the press I borrowed didn't seem to fit so I gave up. I'm heading on a road trip soon so I want to get this done asap.

The only videos I've seen that could help are for Avengers and they all seem to either smack it out with a sledge hammer.

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Pretty standard. If it "didn't seem to fit", then you need to find the correct press that does fit.

14 hours ago, seanton said:      

Out of curiosity, were you changing it just because...our are you having issues? My auto parts store around here let's you rent or borrow specialty tools like a press. Ever try that? They can help you make sure you have the right size for what you are doing.

Good luck and post pictures if you do get it done.

Another question for my curiosity, Dodge not having the ball joint nipples to add grease to them. Has anyone used that small needle on their grease gun end to penetrate the rubber jacket and force grease into it ?  I know you may have some leaking ( a little afterwards) but at least you are keeping them well greased now. 

17 hours ago, probak118 said: Another question for my curiosity, Dodge not having the ball joint nipples to add grease to them. Has anyone used that small needle on their grease gun end to penetrate the rubber jacket and force grease into it ?  I know you may have some leaking ( a little afterwards) but at least you are keeping them well greased now. 

Have not done it on my Journey but did try it on another previous truck. Was even advised to put a touch of sealant when done. Result...ended up replacing it shortly there-after.

• 2 weeks later...

I changed it because the wheel was rattling and there was a bit of shaking while driving.

I successfully did the job a few weeks ago, here are some tips if anybody else ever comes across this, I attached the service manual  to this post, just follow it and look at my notes.

-I rented the ball joint removal press, an adapter set and the pickle fork from Canadian Tire . The ball joint press doesn't fit perfectly because of how the knuckle is shaped but using the adapters you can get it off/on

-You don't need to remove the speed sensor  like the manual says, it won't really get in the way. Mine was kinda stuck so I left it in.

-Release of the lower ball joint from the lower control arm  was done with a pickle fork (and not the special Dodge  remover tool).

-I was able to use the press to put the joint back in about halfway, then I had to smack the bottom of one of those cylinders from the kit with a hammer to get it in the rest of the way.

ball-joint.pdf

Great notes, thanks. Now for the big question...did it solve your issue? Did you also have the squeaking when going over bumps before you did the job? Did this help?

Yes. No more loud banging noise when I drive over potholes and the ball joint was very worn out so it was it's time to go.

• jkeaton and Armando G
• 2 years later...

On 01/09/2017 at 10:16 AM, seanton said: I changed it because the wheel was rattling and there was a bit of shaking while driving.   I successfully did the job a few weeks ago, here are some tips if anybody else ever comes across this, I attached the service manual  to this post, just follow it and look at my notes.   -I rented the ball joint removal press, an adapter set and the pickle fork from Canadian Tire . The ball joint press doesn't fit perfectly because of how the knuckle is shaped but using the adapters you can get it off/on -You don't need to remove the speed sensor  like the manual says, it won't really get in the way. Mine was kinda stuck so I left it in. -Release of the lower ball joint from the lower control arm  was done with a pickle fork (and not the special Dodge  remover tool). -I was able to use the press to put the joint back in about halfway, then I had to smack the bottom of one of those cylinders from the kit with a hammer to get it in the rest of the way.     ball-joint.pdf

• 1 month later...

No I didn't have remove the whole knuckle

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Dodge Journey Front Upper Ball Joint Replacement Costs

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AutoNation Mobile Service offers upfront and competitive pricing. The average cost for Dodge Journey Front Upper Ball Joint Replacement is $302. Drop it off at our shop and pick it up a few hours later, or save time and have our Delivery mechanics come to you.

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Symptoms of a failing Front Upper Ball Joint

Steering is slightly off.

As your ball joints begin to die, they can become loose in the socket. That will mess up the alignment, and you may notice that your car isn’t steering quite the way that you’ve been asking it to. The result will usually be your car pulling to the left or the right. This is a bit of a disconcerting feeling, when your car is trying to go in one direction when you’re not asking it to. So, listen to your intuition when it tells you that something is wrong.

Tires wearing unevenly

If your car is pulling to one direction or another, do you think the tires might wear a little unevenly? The answer is yes, obviously. If your failing front upper ball joints are causing your car to pull to the left or the right, the tires will wear unevenly. So even if you don’t notice the pulling (because it can be subtle, or, more likely, you can be inattentive), you might notice uneven wear and tear on your tires. It’s a good idea to give your tires a visual inspection every now and again. Excessive or uneven wear and tear should be taken seriously, at least if you value having tires on your car. Which you should.

Hopefully you know by now that foreign noises from your car are not a good thing. And they should be addressed. Always. If your front upper ball joint is beginning to wear out, they can make two different noises. The first is a knocking, clanking, or rattling noise, which happens when a failing ball joint is rattling around in the socket. The second is a squeaking noise, similar to an old door in a horror movie, which happens when a busted ball joint is lacking in lubrication.

Vibrating car or steering wheel

If your front upper ball joint is calling out sick, the suspension of your car will be compromised. You’ll feel it in the form of a vibration. You might feel the vibration from the steering wheel, which is a weird sensation. Or your entire car might vibrate like you’re driving on a dirt road. I’m guessing having a sore butt isn’t your idea of a good time, so this should be a sign that something isn’t right.

How urgent is a Front Upper Ball Joint replacement?

All the aforementioned symptoms occur when a ball joint is first beginning to fail. Once the front upper ball joint fails in earnest, you may be left with a much more severe symptom, such as the inability to steer at all.

I think you know what to do here. Get your front upper ball joint replaced ASAP.

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09 Journey SXT AWD Ball Joint Replacement

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My front lower ball joints are worn and need to be replaced to pass my vehicle inspection. Does anyone know how to do this or ever done it them selves? I've done ball joint replacements before but on a much larger scale. I just want to know what Im getting my self into on this job because damaging a part CANNOT happen. I am a US Soldier stationed overseas and parts are not readily available. Ordering parts online is the most affordable for those of us overseas. :gr_patrio  

If you haven't managed to change them yet, Dodge is notorious for riveting ball joints in place. You'll have to drill them out, replace with bolts and of course the new joint. I've never done ball joints myself but have assisted and they can be troublesome. I doubt you'll break anything, as I didn't when a friend helped me out with one of my old cars.  

I got them replaced finally! They were pressed in but I was able to remove them using a large c clamp a 3inch deep well impact socket and a cheater pipe. I used the same tools to repress the joints back into place! You do have to remove the rotor and heat shield to gain access and you can just hang the caliper from the over springs thanks to 3-4in flex tubes at the end of the brake lines. The suspension system on the Journey is very similar to the Jeep Wrangler!!! Be sure to put lock tight on the caliper mounting bolts before reinstalling. This can be fairly simple to do especially if you have a friend lending you hand. My friend and I completed this job in just under 2hrs. Could have gotten it done in half the time if we had figured out the c clamp and socket trick before hand. After the job is completed, pump the brake pedal until pressure returns before moving the vehicle...thanks to self bleeding system. If you are as lucky as I was, an alignment was not needed after doing a road test at city speeds...not to exceed 50mph. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. Without them I would not have had the courage to attempt this on my own.  

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Front Lower Control Arms + Ball Joints + Sway Bars Suspension Kit Replacement For 2009-2015 Dodge Journey - 6pc Set

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• Replacement for: 2009-2015 Dodge Journey
• Kit Includes: 2x Front Lower Control Arm + 2x Lower Ball Joints + 2x Front Sway Bars
• Interchange Part Number: K641333 K641334 K750382 K500120
• Frenzybro Is A Leading Supplier Of Ride Control Products To OE Vehicle Manufacturers Nationwide, That Expertise Translates To Frenzybro's OE-Quality Aftermarket, Control Arms, Suspension Kit, Front End Kit, Front Ball Joint, Front End Rebuild Kit
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• Frenzybro has a full line of suspension kits, all of which are made from quality materials to ensure your driving safety and comfort!

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L ISTING INCLUDES 1x Front Left Lower Control Arm - K641333 1x Front Right Lower Control Arm - K641334 2x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link - K750382 2x Front Lower Ball Joint - K500120 C OMPATIBLE WITH DODGE JOURNEY 2009 - 2015 All Models M ANUFACTURER INFORMATION: ● Products are manufactured in ISO 9000 / 9001 / 9002 certified facilities. ● Products go through multiple inspection processes: Durability Test Platform, Performance Test Platform, High&Low Temperature Fatigue Test Platform, Products Lifetime Test Platform, Multipurpose Numeric Display Hydraulic Pressure Test Machine, Metallographic Detection Device, Salt Spray Test Machine, Spring Tension & Compression Test Machine, Swing Machine, Rockwell Hardness Tester, Brinell Hardness Tester, Shore Hardness Tester, Contourgraph Measuring Machine, Torque Testing Online. ● R & D Team develop new item with 3D Scanner, UG ,PRO/E and AutoCAD GREASE FITTINGS ● All of our parts had been pre-greased already, no matter greasable or sealed. It means it's need not to grease the parts again, otherwise, the grease will overflow. ● Some of the parts we sell have grease fittings, other parts come factory sealed. This does not affect the performance or quality of the parts. Due to volume of sales we cannot guarantee which type you will receive.

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Ball Joint Replacement for 2015

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Hey there, after getting 35s I was expecting a few worn suspension parts but it turns out my ball joints are going bad already at 44k. Is there a better replacement out there besides the OEM ones yet? I looked and dynatrac and carli only seem to be available up to the 2013s.  

Emf ball joints seem legit  

are they going to be better than the OEM ones? That is the real question here, they are not going to cover it under warranty and I would rather just use my dealer unless a truly better option is available.  

Nothing but OEM available for lower. Some verticle play is to be expected in the upper joints. Horizontal play indicates time for replacement  

I'm running EMF's in my 2011. Very happy. Also running an EMF drag link. Unless they took a hard left turn in business model, Clay over there really makes sure his stuff is right. I would trust them to be good to go unless proven otherwise. Good design, good materials, right processes, strong process control, and they're adjustable.  

I run EMF balljoints too, last set ill ever need to do. $750 cdn  

These posts are pointless. EMF doesn't make lowers for a 15. You may as well tell us how great unicorns are.  

Your useless, Look at the website, say 2013-2016 upper and lower bj kit kit $727.  

Mevotech makes lower ball joints for the 14+ trucks. Part number TXMS25532. They are better than stock if they are built the same as their other part numbers. They are not Carli or Dynatrac, but pretty close to a Moog Problem Solver in my opinion.  

Mevotech makes nothing. They engineer nothing. They're a warehousing operation in Canada that reboxed Chinese knockoffs. Do a search on Moogs lawsuit against them.  

Frankly as long as the dimensions are good, they should be good to go. Outside of minor fitment and co-existence issues which would generally be determined with the first set. Ball joints already are simple items that need to be made well. I would trust that Clay did his homework for them. It's also not like these trucks came out yesterday.  

Ask the folks who bought the early Carli ball joints.  

Would like to find some lowers as well. I just want them to be serviceable. If i was Op im not putting oems on that wore out in 40k. Im at 25 and already have noticeble vertical play and slight horizontal. Carli said mid October and have a sign up on their site to be notified when they are out. Patiently waiting. . .  

We will have the EMF ball joints in stock as soon as EMF is ready to ship. We have been stocking their ball joints for earlier gen trucks since the day they were launched. Same with the Carli ball joints.  

Granted I'm an earlier gen, I have bee extremely happy with mine from EMF. Quality is outstanding. Serviceability is cake if replacement parts are ever needed. The fact that you can adjust them if they wear, even better. I wouldn't think they would have any issues applying what they've done to later gens, they were putting these to the test years before they ever came out for production.  

I'd like to see the worn ball joints. My truck has 75,000 miles on it. It goes off road, not gravel roads but off road for work every day. I tow an 18,500lb GN 200 days a year and plow with a Boss 9.2 V plow each winter. 3 sets of tires, all worn down to 4/32 evenly. My joints are still fine. I'm not saying his aren't bad. Just that I'd like to see them.  

My truck just turned 20k and my ball joints are pretty sloppy already. I was always jealous of the people that could go 100k when the last 2 2500's I have owned can't go past 15K-20k on a set. I did live on a dirt road which was often wash boarded and I am pretty sure that is the cause not to mention the paved roads I was driving on were often full of pot holes. I think just going offroad isn't hard on them but wash board dirt and gravel roads will kill them in no time. .  

these are coming up from 4wheelparts https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetr...=12&t_s=237&t_pt=101151&t_pn=DPCCR92-2X3050-A any thoughts?  

Wrong ball joint. These trucks haven't run a Dana spence 2002. I did run a set of the proper DynaTrac ball joints in my 04. They were ok but the uppers did loosen after 100K miles. Being rebuildable keeps you from wearing out the axle housing.  

@mtnrider . I'm with you on this. Can't get mine to last. I would not say mine are "bad" and I'm not rushing out to get a new set but there is measurable play. I'll wait til a few of these companies have had theirs out for a while and decide, but I'm going to replace mine probably within the next year for piece of mind. Heck if I could get 100k out of em and then rebuild, I'd be a happy man. I do think it has a lot to do with high speed pot holes.  

How much movement? A dial indicator on the rim and a pry under the tire. Less than .150 verticle is well within spec and causes no abnormal wear. If you take the time to measure you'll find that's a lot of movement. Lateral movement is a different story.  

Yes, Mopar is MORE then generous with their (cough cough) spec. And I have a lot of lateral movement. If you grab the top and bottom of my tire and move it back and forth (push top in pull bottom out) it clunks all around. If you drove my truck you would feel it, hear it, and be annoyed by it. Not to mention the tire wear it is causing. Trust me, they are going bad. This isn't my first rodeo with them. .  

Similar here. And I rather have less even if it's within spec. I haven't dialed it yet. Like said, not rushing to replace, but I will. Not claiming to be an expert, went back to school recently as a non traditional student in my 30s for diesel technology and work in the field. My field is class 7 & 8 trucks and is relatable but obviously not the same. Still learning, just figured I'd mention Im not wet behind the ears. Im also very particular with my vehicles. Anyways, the clunking drives me nuts. My tie rod ends are also pretty loose in my opinion, although within "manufacturer spec". Ill wait until a good set of both are available but i wont go back with non serviceable oems, that's for sure.  

There's several brands listed on rockuto.com the EMF's joints would more expensive but be better quality. 2015 RAM 2500 6.7L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged Ball Joint | RockAuto  

Thanks for all the info. Right now I'm trying to figure out if its even worth it to go with higher end ones. I'm getting quoted almost $800 for the OEM repair. I don't know that I'll be able to afford another $400 for the price difference between stock and OEM balljoints.  

Those emfs seem pretty nice and in the right price range. They talk about their patented product with replaceable races so the bodies don't wear out in the description. Just wondering how long the races last and how much they are to replace. Wouldn't want to be adjusting and or rebuilding constantly. Also not sure about the company or how long they have been and will be around. I think I'll wait a little longer and let some people test these out. Also hoping Carli still comes thru, even tho they said mid Oct before.  

Fsh4lf said: Those emfs seem pretty nice and in the right price range. They talk about their patented product with replaceable races so the bodies don't wear out in the description. Just wondering how long the races last and how much they are to replace. Click to expand...

That's good info. The ease of service seems like a huge benefit. Definitely starting to open my eyes. Had been thinking Carli, Carli, Carli, and been kind of closed minded on this. The price is very competitive also and I'm sure Carlis are going to run at least 800. Alright, I'll do some more research and possibly give a call or drop an email. Thanks  

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