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The Buffet Can Stay: What The Future Of The Cruise Line Industry Looks Like

Emma Bowman

Carnival Cruise Line ships docked at the Port of Tampa in Tampa, Fla., in March 2020 following the CDC coronavirus No Sail Order. A Celebrity Cruises ship has received CDC permission to operate the first cruise from a U.S. port since the No Sail Order. Chris O'Meara/AP hide caption

Carnival Cruise Line ships docked at the Port of Tampa in Tampa, Fla., in March 2020 following the CDC coronavirus No Sail Order. A Celebrity Cruises ship has received CDC permission to operate the first cruise from a U.S. port since the No Sail Order.

The first cruise set to sail from American ports in more than 15 months is headed to the Caribbean this summer.

Celebrity Cruises got approval from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention to bring passengers aboard for the seven-night cruise on June 26, the company announced this week.

"CDC and the cruise industry agree that the industry has what it needs to move forward and no additional roadblocks exist for resuming sailing by mid-summer," CDC spokesperson Caitlin Shockey confirmed in an email.

It's welcome news for an industry that ground to a halt during the pandemic. Now, emboldened by the CDC's green light and a pent-up demand, the industry has high hopes for a quick recovery.

Companies will have to strike the right balance of keeping their promises of a comfortable and relaxing experience, while sticking to the rules laid out by the CDC.

But Stewart Chiron, an industry expert doing business as The Cruise Guy , says that a "groundswell of demand" suggests that antsy would-be passengers are willing to jump through a few hoops just to get back on board.

"If they were able to have sailed in May or June of last year, there's people that would have," he said. "There were loads of people that were so desperate to go, they didn't care where they went, or if they went anywhere. The itinerary was secondary to just getting away on a cruise and being out on the ocean, and doing something normal again was a primary factor."

But what will "normal" mean for passengers, exactly?

Vaccination will get you closer to a pre-pandemic cruise

For the most part, individual cruise experiences will depend on vaccination status.

The Celebrity cruise's permission to sail is contingent on 95% of its crew and passengers being fully vaccinated before boarding the ship in Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

The CDC is also giving cruise companies an alternative to meeting that threshold. Companies can run trial cruises at limited capacity to test the effectiveness of their health measures.

However, cruise ships that meet the vaccination threshold will have more relaxed mask and social distancing rules.

The embrace of immunization will likely sit well with most passengers. In an April survey of its readership, the website Cruise Critic said that 81% of respondents would board a cruise if vaccines were required.

"The buffet is not dead"

The CDC banned cruise ships from leaving U.S ports on March 14, 2020 , under a No Sail Order due to the risks of spreading COVID-19.

Close quarters, shared meals and activities among international passengers led to some of the first known COVID-19 super-spreading events, such as the outbreaks aboard the Diamond Princess and Grand Princess ships, which sickened more than 800 passengers and crew members.

In March 2020, cases linked with cruise travelers accounted for some 17% of the reported cases in the U.S.

That said, self-service buffets were looking like a thing of the past even before the coronavirus. Many cruise ships had long ago opted for staff to serve diners buffet offerings instead, to contain the spread of the common flu.

But under the new CDC guidelines, fully vaccinated passengers are free to fill up their plates themselves.

"We were surprised by this because it seems that the cruise lines were moving more towards a served buffet and that kind of option," said Chris Gray Faust, managing editor of the website Cruise Critic . "But the buffet is not dead."

While vaccinated guests can ditch social distancing for leisurely dinners, cruise lines are still required to encourage outdoor dining and room service.

At ports, cruise lines are urged but not required to prohibit independent exploration by unvaccinated passengers.

"It does seem that if you're vaccinated and you're on a ship where most of the people are vaccinated, your experience ... will look more similar than we would have thought to before the pandemic," said Gray Faust.

"All the things that people enjoyed — you know, socializing with other people, eating and drinking, going to the pool, going to shows — all of that is still going to be available and open."

Don't expect a digital detox

But pandemic signposts will remain. If cruise lines follow CDC recommendations, travelers will be seeing a lot more gadgetry.

Cruise lines are encouraged to provide wearable contact-tracing technology. For some of its ships, Royal Caribbean International has already rolled out mandatory waterproof bracelets for guests that will make it easier to pinpoint who has been exposed to the coronavirus in the event of an outbreak.

According to CEO Michael Bayley, the company has implemented surveillance tech , in the form of facial and body recognition, to verify contact tracing cases.

"Those types of things have been really effective, at least what we've seen over in Europe and in Singapore," said Gray Faust of Cruise Critic .

And the time-honored muster drill? It's gone virtual for some lines.

The Cruise Guy, Stewart Chiron, will be on that first cruise to the Caribbean next month.

He sees the introduction of new safeguards less as a hurdle to a carefree vacation and more of a smart move that will right the industry's course.

"So far, it's changing for the better. They're basing this not on just convenience, but based on the science that we have today," he said, unlike "the confusion from three or four months ago."

But he's still willing to put up with extra nuisances if it means he can cruise. Before his late June trip, he's ending his cruise drought next week for yet another Caribbean trip outside U.S. waters that will take off from St. Maarten.

For him, it's the outbound airline flight — the long lines and vaccination paperwork — that stands between him and smooth sailing.

"When I travel next week, I'll be taking an extra bag packed with a little bit of extra patience," he said.

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Crying Myself to Sleep on the Biggest Cruise Ship Ever

Seven agonizing nights aboard the Icon of the Seas

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Updated at 2:44 p.m. ET on April 6, 2024.

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MY FIRST GLIMPSE of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, from the window of an approaching Miami cab, brings on a feeling of vertigo, nausea, amazement, and distress. I shut my eyes in defense, as my brain tells my optic nerve to try again.

The ship makes no sense, vertically or horizontally. It makes no sense on sea, or on land, or in outer space. It looks like a hodgepodge of domes and minarets, tubes and canopies, like Istanbul had it been designed by idiots. Vibrant, oversignifying colors are stacked upon other such colors, decks perched over still more decks; the only comfort is a row of lifeboats ringing its perimeter. There is no imposed order, no cogent thought, and, for those who do not harbor a totalitarian sense of gigantomania, no visual mercy. This is the biggest cruise ship ever built, and I have been tasked with witnessing its inaugural voyage.

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“Author embarks on their first cruise-ship voyage” has been a staple of American essay writing for almost three decades, beginning with David Foster Wallace’s “A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again,” which was first published in 1996 under the title “Shipping Out.” Since then, many admirable writers have widened and diversified the genre. Usually the essayist commissioned to take to the sea is in their first or second flush of youth and is ready to sharpen their wit against the hull of the offending vessel. I am 51, old and tired, having seen much of the world as a former travel journalist, and mostly what I do in both life and prose is shrug while muttering to my imaginary dachshund, “This too shall pass.” But the Icon of the Seas will not countenance a shrug. The Icon of the Seas is the Linda Loman of cruise ships, exclaiming that attention must be paid. And here I am in late January with my one piece of luggage and useless gray winter jacket and passport, zipping through the Port of Miami en route to the gangway that will separate me from the bulk of North America for more than seven days, ready to pay it in full.

The aforementioned gangway opens up directly onto a thriving mall (I will soon learn it is imperiously called the “Royal Promenade”), presently filled with yapping passengers beneath a ceiling studded with balloons ready to drop. Crew members from every part of the global South, as well as a few Balkans, are shepherding us along while pressing flutes of champagne into our hands. By a humming Starbucks, I drink as many of these as I can and prepare to find my cabin. I show my blue Suite Sky SeaPass Card (more on this later, much more) to a smiling woman from the Philippines, and she tells me to go “aft.” Which is where, now? As someone who has rarely sailed on a vessel grander than the Staten Island Ferry, I am confused. It turns out that the aft is the stern of the ship, or, for those of us who don’t know what a stern or an aft are, its ass. The nose of the ship, responsible for separating the waves before it, is also called a bow, and is marked for passengers as the FWD , or forward. The part of the contemporary sailing vessel where the malls are clustered is called the midship. I trust that you have enjoyed this nautical lesson.

I ascend via elevator to my suite on Deck 11. This is where I encounter my first terrible surprise. My suite windows and balcony do not face the ocean. Instead, they look out onto another shopping mall. This mall is the one that’s called Central Park, perhaps in homage to the Olmsted-designed bit of greenery in the middle of my hometown. Although on land I would be delighted to own a suite with Central Park views, here I am deeply depressed. To sail on a ship and not wake up to a vast blue carpet of ocean? Unthinkable.

Allow me a brief preamble here. The story you are reading was commissioned at a moment when most staterooms on the Icon were sold out. In fact, so enthralled by the prospect of this voyage were hard-core mariners that the ship’s entire inventory of guest rooms (the Icon can accommodate up to 7,600 passengers, but its inaugural journey was reduced to 5,000 or so for a less crowded experience) was almost immediately sold out. Hence, this publication was faced with the shocking prospect of paying nearly $19,000 to procure for this solitary passenger an entire suite—not including drinking expenses—all for the privilege of bringing you this article. But the suite in question doesn’t even have a view of the ocean! I sit down hard on my soft bed. Nineteen thousand dollars for this .

The viewless suite does have its pluses. In addition to all the Malin+Goetz products in my dual bathrooms, I am granted use of a dedicated Suite Deck lounge; access to Coastal Kitchen, a superior restaurant for Suites passengers; complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream (“the fastest Internet at Sea”) “for one device per person for the whole cruise duration”; a pair of bathrobes (one of which comes prestained with what looks like a large expectoration by the greenest lizard on Earth); and use of the Grove Suite Sun, an area on Decks 18 and 19 with food and deck chairs reserved exclusively for Suite passengers. I also get reserved seating for a performance of The Wizard of Oz , an ice-skating tribute to the periodic table, and similar provocations. The very color of my Suite Sky SeaPass Card, an oceanic blue as opposed to the cloying royal purple of the standard non-Suite passenger, will soon provoke envy and admiration. But as high as my status may be, there are those on board who have much higher status still, and I will soon learn to bow before them.

In preparation for sailing, I have “priced in,” as they say on Wall Street, the possibility that I may come from a somewhat different monde than many of the other cruisers. Without falling into stereotypes or preconceptions, I prepare myself for a friendly outspokenness on the part of my fellow seafarers that may not comply with modern DEI standards. I believe in meeting people halfway, and so the day before flying down to Miami, I visited what remains of Little Italy to purchase a popular T-shirt that reads DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL across the breast in the colors of the Italian flag. My wife recommended that I bring one of my many T-shirts featuring Snoopy and the Peanuts gang, as all Americans love the beagle and his friends. But I naively thought that my meatball T-shirt would be more suitable for conversation-starting. “Oh, and who is your ‘daddy’?” some might ask upon seeing it. “And how long have you been his ‘little meatball’?” And so on.

I put on my meatball T-shirt and head for one of the dining rooms to get a late lunch. In the elevator, I stick out my chest for all to read the funny legend upon it, but soon I realize that despite its burnished tricolor letters, no one takes note. More to the point, no one takes note of me. Despite my attempts at bridge building, the very sight of me (small, ethnic, without a cap bearing the name of a football team) elicits no reaction from other passengers. Most often, they will small-talk over me as if I don’t exist. This brings to mind the travails of David Foster Wallace , who felt so ostracized by his fellow passengers that he retreated to his cabin for much of his voyage. And Wallace was raised primarily in the Midwest and was a much larger, more American-looking meatball than I am. If he couldn’t talk to these people, how will I? What if I leave this ship without making any friends at all, despite my T-shirt? I am a social creature, and the prospect of seven days alone and apart is saddening. Wallace’s stateroom, at least, had a view of the ocean, a kind of cheap eternity.

Worse awaits me in the dining room. This is a large, multichandeliered room where I attended my safety training (I was shown how to put on a flotation vest; it is a very simple procedure). But the maître d’ politely refuses me entry in an English that seems to verge on another language. “I’m sorry, this is only for pendejos ,” he seems to be saying. I push back politely and he repeats himself. Pendejos ? Piranhas? There’s some kind of P-word to which I am not attuned. Meanwhile elderly passengers stream right past, powered by their limbs, walkers, and electric wheelchairs. “It is only pendejo dining today, sir.” “But I have a suite!” I say, already starting to catch on to the ship’s class system. He examines my card again. “But you are not a pendejo ,” he confirms. I am wearing a DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL T-shirt, I want to say to him. I am the essence of pendejo .

Eventually, I give up and head to the plebeian buffet on Deck 15, which has an aquatic-styled name I have now forgotten. Before gaining entry to this endless cornucopia of reheated food, one passes a washing station of many sinks and soap dispensers, and perhaps the most intriguing character on the entire ship. He is Mr. Washy Washy—or, according to his name tag, Nielbert of the Philippines—and he is dressed as a taco (on other occasions, I’ll see him dressed as a burger). Mr. Washy Washy performs an eponymous song in spirited, indeed flamboyant English: “Washy, washy, wash your hands, WASHY WASHY!” The dangers of norovirus and COVID on a cruise ship this size (a giant fellow ship was stricken with the former right after my voyage) makes Mr. Washy Washy an essential member of the crew. The problem lies with the food at the end of Washy’s rainbow. The buffet is groaning with what sounds like sophisticated dishes—marinated octopus, boiled egg with anchovy, chorizo, lobster claws—but every animal tastes tragically the same, as if there was only one creature available at the market, a “cruisipus” bred specifically for Royal Caribbean dining. The “vegetables” are no better. I pick up a tomato slice and look right through it. It tastes like cellophane. I sit alone, apart from the couples and parents with gaggles of children, as “We Are Family” echoes across the buffet space.

I may have failed to mention that all this time, the Icon of the Seas has not left port. As the fiery mango of the subtropical setting sun makes Miami’s condo skyline even more apocalyptic, the ship shoves off beneath a perfunctory display of fireworks. After the sun sets, in the far, dark distance, another circus-lit cruise ship ruptures the waves before us. We glance at it with pity, because it is by definition a smaller ship than our own. I am on Deck 15, outside the buffet and overlooking a bunch of pools (the Icon has seven of them), drinking a frilly drink that I got from one of the bars (the Icon has 15 of them), still too shy to speak to anyone, despite Sister Sledge’s assertion that all on the ship are somehow related.

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The ship’s passage away from Ron DeSantis’s Florida provides no frisson, no sense of developing “sea legs,” as the ship is too large to register the presence of waves unless a mighty wind adds significant chop. It is time for me to register the presence of the 5,000 passengers around me, even if they refuse to register mine. My fellow travelers have prepared for this trip with personally decorated T-shirts celebrating the importance of this voyage. The simplest ones say ICON INAUGURAL ’24 on the back and the family name on the front. Others attest to an over-the-top love of cruise ships: WARNING! MAY START TALKING ABOUT CRUISING . Still others are artisanally designed and celebrate lifetimes spent married while cruising (on ships, of course). A couple possibly in their 90s are wearing shirts whose backs feature a drawing of a cruise liner, two flamingos with ostensibly male and female characteristics, and the legend “ HUSBAND AND WIFE Cruising Partners FOR LIFE WE MAY NOT HAVE IT All Together BUT TOGETHER WE HAVE IT ALL .” (The words not in all caps have been written in cursive.) A real journalist or a more intrepid conversationalist would have gone up to the couple and asked them to explain the longevity of their marriage vis-à-vis their love of cruising. But instead I head to my mall suite, take off my meatball T-shirt, and allow the first tears of the cruise to roll down my cheeks slowly enough that I briefly fall asleep amid the moisture and salt.

I WAKE UP with a hangover. Oh God. Right. I cannot believe all of that happened last night. A name floats into my cobwebbed, nauseated brain: “Ayn Rand.” Jesus Christ.

I breakfast alone at the Coastal Kitchen. The coffee tastes fine and the eggs came out of a bird. The ship rolls slightly this morning; I can feel it in my thighs and my schlong, the parts of me that are most receptive to danger.

I had a dangerous conversation last night. After the sun set and we were at least 50 miles from shore (most modern cruise ships sail at about 23 miles an hour), I lay in bed softly hiccupping, my arms stretched out exactly like Jesus on the cross, the sound of the distant waves missing from my mall-facing suite, replaced by the hum of air-conditioning and children shouting in Spanish through the vents of my two bathrooms. I decided this passivity was unacceptable. As an immigrant, I feel duty-bound to complete the tasks I am paid for, which means reaching out and trying to understand my fellow cruisers. So I put on a normal James Perse T-shirt and headed for one of the bars on the Royal Promenade—the Schooner Bar, it was called, if memory serves correctly.

I sat at the bar for a martini and two Negronis. An old man with thick, hairy forearms drank next to me, very silent and Hemingwaylike, while a dreadlocked piano player tinkled out a series of excellent Elton John covers. To my right, a young white couple—he in floral shorts, she in a light, summery miniskirt with a fearsome diamond ring, neither of them in football regalia—chatted with an elderly couple. Do it , I commanded myself. Open your mouth. Speak! Speak without being spoken to. Initiate. A sentence fragment caught my ear from the young woman, “Cherry Hill.” This is a suburb of Philadelphia in New Jersey, and I had once been there for a reading at a synagogue. “Excuse me,” I said gently to her. “Did you just mention Cherry Hill? It’s a lovely place.”

As it turned out, the couple now lived in Fort Lauderdale (the number of Floridians on the cruise surprised me, given that Southern Florida is itself a kind of cruise ship, albeit one slowly sinking), but soon they were talking with me exclusively—the man potbellied, with a chin like a hard-boiled egg; the woman as svelte as if she were one of the many Ukrainian members of the crew—the elderly couple next to them forgotten. This felt as groundbreaking as the first time I dared to address an American in his native tongue, as a child on a bus in Queens (“On my foot you are standing, Mister”).

“I don’t want to talk politics,” the man said. “But they’re going to eighty-six Biden and put Michelle in.”

I considered the contradictions of his opening conversational gambit, but decided to play along. “People like Michelle,” I said, testing the waters. The husband sneered, but the wife charitably put forward that the former first lady was “more personable” than Joe Biden. “They’re gonna eighty-six Biden,” the husband repeated. “He can’t put a sentence together.”

After I mentioned that I was a writer—though I presented myself as a writer of teleplays instead of novels and articles such as this one—the husband told me his favorite writer was Ayn Rand. “Ayn Rand, she came here with nothing,” the husband said. “I work with a lot of Cubans, so …” I wondered if I should mention what I usually do to ingratiate myself with Republicans or libertarians: the fact that my finances improved after pass-through corporations were taxed differently under Donald Trump. Instead, I ordered another drink and the couple did the same, and I told him that Rand and I were born in the same city, St. Petersburg/Leningrad, and that my family also came here with nothing. Now the bonding and drinking began in earnest, and several more rounds appeared. Until it all fell apart.

Read: Gary Shteyngart on watching Russian television for five days straight

My new friend, whom I will refer to as Ayn, called out to a buddy of his across the bar, and suddenly a young couple, both covered in tattoos, appeared next to us. “He fucking punked me,” Ayn’s frat-boy-like friend called out as he put his arm around Ayn, while his sizable partner sizzled up to Mrs. Rand. Both of them had a look I have never seen on land—their eyes projecting absence and enmity in equal measure. In the ’90s, I drank with Russian soldiers fresh from Chechnya and wandered the streets of wartime Zagreb, but I have never seen such undisguised hostility toward both me and perhaps the universe at large. I was briefly introduced to this psychopathic pair, but neither of them wanted to have anything to do with me, and the tattooed woman would not even reveal her Christian name to me (she pretended to have the same first name as Mrs. Rand). To impress his tattooed friends, Ayn made fun of the fact that as a television writer, I’d worked on the series Succession (which, it would turn out, practically nobody on the ship had watched), instead of the far more palatable, in his eyes, zombie drama of last year. And then my new friends drifted away from me into an angry private conversation—“He punked me!”—as I ordered another drink for myself, scared of the dead-eyed arrivals whose gaze never registered in the dim wattage of the Schooner Bar, whose terrifying voices and hollow laughs grated like unoiled gears against the crooning of “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road.”

But today is a new day for me and my hangover. After breakfast, I explore the ship’s so-called neighborhoods . There’s the AquaDome, where one can find a food hall and an acrobatic sound-and-light aquatic show. Central Park has a premium steak house, a sushi joint, and a used Rolex that can be bought for $8,000 on land here proudly offered at $17,000. There’s the aforementioned Royal Promenade, where I had drunk with the Rands, and where a pair of dueling pianos duel well into the night. There’s Surfside, a kids’ neighborhood full of sugary garbage, which looks out onto the frothy trail that the behemoth leaves behind itself. Thrill Island refers to the collection of tubes that clutter the ass of the ship and offer passengers six waterslides and a surfing simulation. There’s the Hideaway, an adult zone that plays music from a vomit-slathered, Brit-filled Alicante nightclub circa 1996 and proves a big favorite with groups of young Latin American customers. And, most hurtfully, there’s the Suite Neighborhood.

I say hurtfully because as a Suite passenger I should be here, though my particular suite is far from the others. Whereas I am stuck amid the riffraff of Deck 11, this section is on the highborn Decks 16 and 17, and in passing, I peek into the spacious, tall-ceilinged staterooms from the hallway, dazzled by the glint of the waves and sun. For $75,000, one multifloor suite even comes with its own slide between floors, so that a family may enjoy this particular terror in private. There is a quiet splendor to the Suite Neighborhood. I see fewer stickers and signs and drawings than in my own neighborhood—for example, MIKE AND DIANA PROUDLY SERVED U.S. MARINE CORPS RETIRED . No one here needs to announce their branch of service or rank; they are simply Suites, and this is where they belong. Once again, despite my hard work and perseverance, I have been disallowed from the true American elite. Once again, I am “Not our class, dear.” I am reminded of watching The Love Boat on my grandmother’s Zenith, which either was given to her or we found in the trash (I get our many malfunctioning Zeniths confused) and whose tube got so hot, I would put little chunks of government cheese on a thin tissue atop it to give our welfare treat a pleasant, Reagan-era gooeyness. I could not understand English well enough then to catch the nuances of that seafaring program, but I knew that there were differences in the status of the passengers, and that sometimes those differences made them sad. Still, this ship, this plenty—every few steps, there are complimentary nachos or milkshakes or gyros on offer—was the fatty fuel of my childhood dreams. If only I had remained a child.

I walk around the outdoor decks looking for company. There is a middle-aged African American couple who always seem to be asleep in each other’s arms, probably exhausted from the late capitalism they regularly encounter on land. There is far more diversity on this ship than I expected. Many couples are a testament to Loving v. Virginia , and there is a large group of folks whose T-shirts read MELANIN AT SEA / IT’S THE MELANIN FOR ME . I smile when I see them, but then some young kids from the group makes Mr. Washy Washy do a cruel, caricatured “Burger Dance” (today he is in his burger getup), and I think, Well, so much for intersectionality .

At the infinity pool on Deck 17, I spot some elderly women who could be ethnic and from my part of the world, and so I jump in. I am proved correct! Many of them seem to be originally from Queens (“Corona was still great when it was all Italian”), though they are now spread across the tristate area. We bond over the way “Ron-kon-koma” sounds when announced in Penn Station.

“Everyone is here for a different reason,” one of them tells me. She and her ex-husband last sailed together four years ago to prove to themselves that their marriage was truly over. Her 15-year-old son lost his virginity to “an Irish young lady” while their ship was moored in Ravenna, Italy. The gaggle of old-timers competes to tell me their favorite cruising stories and tips. “A guy proposed in Central Park a couple of years ago”—many Royal Caribbean ships apparently have this ridiculous communal area—“and she ran away screaming!” “If you’re diamond-class, you get four drinks for free.” “A different kind of passenger sails out of Bayonne.” (This, perhaps, is racially coded.) “Sometimes, if you tip the bartender $5, your next drink will be free.”

“Everyone’s here for a different reason,” the woman whose marriage ended on a cruise tells me again. “Some people are here for bad reasons—the drinkers and the gamblers. Some people are here for medical reasons.” I have seen more than a few oxygen tanks and at least one woman clearly undergoing very serious chemo. Some T-shirts celebrate good news about a cancer diagnosis. This might be someone’s last cruise or week on Earth. For these women, who have spent months, if not years, at sea, cruising is a ritual as well as a life cycle: first love, last love, marriage, divorce, death.

Read: The last place on Earth any tourist should go

I have talked with these women for so long, tonight I promise myself that after a sad solitary dinner I will not try to seek out company at the bars in the mall or the adult-themed Hideaway. I have enough material to fulfill my duties to this publication. As I approach my orphaned suite, I run into the aggro young people who stole Mr. and Mrs. Rand away from me the night before. The tattooed apparitions pass me without a glance. She is singing something violent about “Stuttering Stanley” (a character in a popular horror movie, as I discover with my complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream Internet at Sea) and he’s loudly shouting about “all the money I’ve lost,” presumably at the casino in the bowels of the ship.

So these bent psychos out of a Cormac McCarthy novel are angrily inhabiting my deck. As I mewl myself to sleep, I envision a limited series for HBO or some other streamer, a kind of low-rent White Lotus , where several aggressive couples conspire to throw a shy intellectual interloper overboard. I type the scenario into my phone. As I fall asleep, I think of what the woman who recently divorced her husband and whose son became a man through the good offices of the Irish Republic told me while I was hoisting myself out of the infinity pool. “I’m here because I’m an explorer. I’m here because I’m trying something new.” What if I allowed myself to believe in her fantasy?

“YOU REALLY STARTED AT THE TOP,” they tell me. I’m at the Coastal Kitchen for my eggs and corned-beef hash, and the maître d’ has slotted me in between two couples. Fueled by coffee or perhaps intrigued by my relative youth, they strike up a conversation with me. As always, people are shocked that this is my first cruise. They contrast the Icon favorably with all the preceding liners in the Royal Caribbean fleet, usually commenting on the efficiency of the elevators that hurl us from deck to deck (as in many large corporate buildings, the elevators ask you to choose a floor and then direct you to one of many lifts). The couple to my right, from Palo Alto—he refers to his “porn mustache” and calls his wife “my cougar” because she is two years older—tell me they are “Pandemic Pinnacles.”

This is the day that my eyes will be opened. Pinnacles , it is explained to me over translucent cantaloupe, have sailed with Royal Caribbean for 700 ungodly nights. Pandemic Pinnacles took advantage of the two-for-one accrual rate of Pinnacle points during the pandemic, when sailing on a cruise ship was even more ill-advised, to catapult themselves into Pinnacle status.

Because of the importance of the inaugural voyage of the world’s largest cruise liner, more than 200 Pinnacles are on this ship, a startling number, it seems. Mrs. Palo Alto takes out a golden badge that I have seen affixed over many a breast, which reads CROWN AND ANCHOR SOCIETY along with her name. This is the coveted badge of the Pinnacle. “You should hear all the whining in Guest Services,” her husband tells me. Apparently, the Pinnacles who are not also Suites like us are all trying to use their status to get into Coastal Kitchen, our elite restaurant. Even a Pinnacle needs to be a Suite to access this level of corned-beef hash.

“We’re just baby Pinnacles,” Mrs. Palo Alto tells me, describing a kind of internal class struggle among the Pinnacle elite for ever higher status.

And now I understand what the maître d’ was saying to me on the first day of my cruise. He wasn’t saying “ pendejo .” He was saying “Pinnacle.” The dining room was for Pinnacles only, all those older people rolling in like the tide on their motorized scooters.

And now I understand something else: This whole thing is a cult. And like most cults, it can’t help but mirror the endless American fight for status. Like Keith Raniere’s NXIVM, where different-colored sashes were given out to connote rank among Raniere’s branded acolytes, this is an endless competition among Pinnacles, Suites, Diamond-Plusers, and facing-the-mall, no-balcony purple SeaPass Card peasants, not to mention the many distinctions within each category. The more you cruise, the higher your status. No wonder a section of the Royal Promenade is devoted to getting passengers to book their next cruise during the one they should be enjoying now. No wonder desperate Royal Caribbean offers (“FINAL HOURS”) crowded my email account weeks before I set sail. No wonder the ship’s jewelry store, the Royal Bling, is selling a $100,000 golden chalice that will entitle its owner to drink free on Royal Caribbean cruises for life. (One passenger was already gaming out whether her 28-year-old son was young enough to “just about earn out” on the chalice or if that ship had sailed.) No wonder this ship was sold out months before departure , and we had to pay $19,000 for a horrid suite away from the Suite Neighborhood. No wonder the most mythical hero of Royal Caribbean lore is someone named Super Mario, who has cruised so often, he now has his own working desk on many ships. This whole experience is part cult, part nautical pyramid scheme.

From the June 2014 issue: Ship of wonks

“The toilets are amazing,” the Palo Altos are telling me. “One flush and you’re done.” “They don’t understand how energy-efficient these ships are,” the husband of the other couple is telling me. “They got the LNG”—liquefied natural gas, which is supposed to make the Icon a boon to the environment (a concept widely disputed and sometimes ridiculed by environmentalists).

But I’m thinking along a different line of attack as I spear my last pallid slice of melon. For my streaming limited series, a Pinnacle would have to get killed by either an outright peasant or a Suite without an ocean view. I tell my breakfast companions my idea.

“Oh, for sure a Pinnacle would have to be killed,” Mr. Palo Alto, the Pandemic Pinnacle, says, touching his porn mustache thoughtfully as his wife nods.

“THAT’S RIGHT, IT’S your time, buddy!” Hubert, my fun-loving Panamanian cabin attendant, shouts as I step out of my suite in a robe. “Take it easy, buddy!”

I have come up with a new dressing strategy. Instead of trying to impress with my choice of T-shirts, I have decided to start wearing a robe, as one does at a resort property on land, with a proper spa and hammam. The response among my fellow cruisers has been ecstatic. “Look at you in the robe!” Mr. Rand cries out as we pass each other by the Thrill Island aqua park. “You’re living the cruise life! You know, you really drank me under the table that night.” I laugh as we part ways, but my soul cries out, Please spend more time with me, Mr. and Mrs. Rand; I so need the company .

In my white robe, I am a stately presence, a refugee from a better limited series, a one-man crossover episode. (Only Suites are granted these robes to begin with.) Today, I will try many of the activities these ships have on offer to provide their clientele with a sense of never-ceasing motion. Because I am already at Thrill Island, I decide to climb the staircase to what looks like a mast on an old-fashioned ship (terrified, because I am afraid of heights) to try a ride called “Storm Chasers,” which is part of the “Category 6” water park, named in honor of one of the storms that may someday do away with the Port of Miami entirely. Storm Chasers consists of falling from the “mast” down a long, twisting neon tube filled with water, like being the camera inside your own colonoscopy, as you hold on to the handles of a mat, hoping not to die. The tube then flops you down headfirst into a trough of water, a Royal Caribbean baptism. It both knocks my breath out and makes me sad.

In keeping with the aquatic theme, I attend a show at the AquaDome. To the sound of “Live and Let Die,” a man in a harness gyrates to and fro in the sultry air. I saw something very similar in the back rooms of the famed Berghain club in early-aughts Berlin. Soon another harnessed man is gyrating next to the first. Ja , I think to myself, I know how this ends. Now will come the fisting , natürlich . But the show soon devolves into the usual Marvel-film-grade nonsense, with too much light and sound signifying nichts . If any fisting is happening, it is probably in the Suite Neighborhood, inside a cabin marked with an upside-down pineapple, which I understand means a couple are ready to swing, and I will see none of it.

I go to the ice show, which is a kind of homage—if that’s possible—to the periodic table, done with the style and pomp and masterful precision that would please the likes of Kim Jong Un, if only he could afford Royal Caribbean talent. At one point, the dancers skate to the theme song of Succession . “See that!” I want to say to my fellow Suites—at “cultural” events, we have a special section reserved for us away from the commoners—“ Succession ! It’s even better than the zombie show! Open your minds!”

Finally, I visit a comedy revue in an enormous and too brightly lit version of an “intimate,” per Royal Caribbean literature, “Manhattan comedy club.” Many of the jokes are about the cruising life. “I’ve lived on ships for 20 years,” one of the middle-aged comedians says. “I can only see so many Filipino homosexuals dressed as a taco.” He pauses while the audience laughs. “I am so fired tonight,” he says. He segues into a Trump impression and then Biden falling asleep at the microphone, which gets the most laughs. “Anyone here from Fort Leonard Wood?” another comedian asks. Half the crowd seems to cheer. As I fall asleep that night, I realize another connection I have failed to make, and one that may explain some of the diversity on this vessel—many of its passengers have served in the military.

As a coddled passenger with a suite, I feel like I am starting to understand what it means to have a rank and be constantly reminded of it. There are many espresso makers , I think as I look across the expanse of my officer-grade quarters before closing my eyes, but this one is mine .

A shocking sight greets me beyond the pools of Deck 17 as I saunter over to the Coastal Kitchen for my morning intake of slightly sour Americanos. A tiny city beneath a series of perfectly pressed green mountains. Land! We have docked for a brief respite in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. I wolf down my egg scramble to be one of the first passengers off the ship. Once past the gangway, I barely refrain from kissing the ground. I rush into the sights and sounds of this scruffy island city, sampling incredible conch curry and buckets of non-Starbucks coffee. How wonderful it is to be where God intended humans to be: on land. After all, I am neither a fish nor a mall rat. This is my natural environment. Basseterre may not be Havana, but there are signs of human ingenuity and desire everywhere you look. The Black Table Grill Has been Relocated to Soho Village, Market Street, Directly Behind of, Gary’s Fruits and Flower Shop. Signed. THE PORK MAN reads a sign stuck to a wall. Now, that is how you write a sign. A real sign, not the come-ons for overpriced Rolexes that blink across the screens of the Royal Promenade.

“Hey, tie your shoestring!” a pair of laughing ladies shout to me across the street.

“Thank you!” I shout back. Shoestring! “Thank you very much.”

A man in Independence Square Park comes by and asks if I want to play with his monkey. I haven’t heard that pickup line since the Penn Station of the 1980s. But then he pulls a real monkey out of a bag. The monkey is wearing a diaper and looks insane. Wonderful , I think, just wonderful! There is so much life here. I email my editor asking if I can remain on St. Kitts and allow the Icon to sail off into the horizon without me. I have even priced a flight home at less than $300, and I have enough material from the first four days on the cruise to write the entire story. “It would be funny …” my editor replies. “Now get on the boat.”

As I slink back to the ship after my brief jailbreak, the locals stand under umbrellas to gaze at and photograph the boat that towers over their small capital city. The limousines of the prime minister and his lackeys are parked beside the gangway. St. Kitts, I’ve been told, is one of the few islands that would allow a ship of this size to dock.

“We hear about all the waterslides,” a sweet young server in one of the cafés told me. “We wish we could go on the ship, but we have to work.”

“I want to stay on your island,” I replied. “I love it here.”

But she didn’t understand how I could possibly mean that.

“WASHY, WASHY, so you don’t get stinky, stinky!” kids are singing outside the AquaDome, while their adult minders look on in disapproval, perhaps worried that Mr. Washy Washy is grooming them into a life of gayness. I heard a southern couple skip the buffet entirely out of fear of Mr. Washy Washy.

Meanwhile, I have found a new watering hole for myself, the Swim & Tonic, the biggest swim-up bar on any cruise ship in the world. Drinking next to full-size, nearly naked Americans takes away one’s own self-consciousness. The men have curvaceous mom bodies. The women are equally un-shy about their sprawling physiques.

Today I’ve befriended a bald man with many children who tells me that all of the little trinkets that Royal Caribbean has left us in our staterooms and suites are worth a fortune on eBay. “Eighty dollars for the water bottle, 60 for the lanyard,” the man says. “This is a cult.”

“Tell me about it,” I say. There is, however, a clientele for whom this cruise makes perfect sense. For a large middle-class family (he works in “supply chains”), seven days in a lower-tier cabin—which starts at $1,800 a person—allow the parents to drop off their children in Surfside, where I imagine many young Filipina crew members will take care of them, while the parents are free to get drunk at a swim-up bar and maybe even get intimate in their cabin. Cruise ships have become, for a certain kind of hardworking family, a form of subsidized child care.

There is another man I would like to befriend at the Swim & Tonic, a tall, bald fellow who is perpetually inebriated and who wears a necklace studded with little rubber duckies in sunglasses, which, I am told, is a sort of secret handshake for cruise aficionados. Tomorrow, I will spend more time with him, but first the ship docks at St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is more charming in name than in presence, but I still all but jump off the ship to score a juicy oxtail and plantains at the well-known Petite Pump Room, overlooking the harbor. From one of the highest points in the small city, the Icon of the Seas appears bigger than the surrounding hills.

I usually tan very evenly, but something about the discombobulation of life at sea makes me forget the regular application of sunscreen. As I walk down the streets of Charlotte Amalie in my fluorescent Icon of the Seas cap, an old Rastafarian stares me down. “Redneck,” he hisses.

“No,” I want to tell him, as I bring a hand up to my red neck, “that’s not who I am at all. On my island, Mannahatta, as Whitman would have it, I am an interesting person living within an engaging artistic milieu. I do not wish to use the Caribbean as a dumping ground for the cruise-ship industry. I love the work of Derek Walcott. You don’t understand. I am not a redneck. And if I am, they did this to me.” They meaning Royal Caribbean? Its passengers? The Rands?

“They did this to me!”

Back on the Icon, some older matrons are muttering about a run-in with passengers from the Celebrity cruise ship docked next to us, the Celebrity Apex. Although Celebrity Cruises is also owned by Royal Caribbean, I am made to understand that there is a deep fratricidal beef between passengers of the two lines. “We met a woman from the Apex,” one matron says, “and she says it was a small ship and there was nothing to do. Her face was as tight as a 19-year-old’s, she had so much surgery.” With those words, and beneath a cloudy sky, humidity shrouding our weathered faces and red necks, we set sail once again, hopefully in the direction of home.

THERE ARE BARELY 48 HOURS LEFT to the cruise, and the Icon of the Seas’ passengers are salty. They know how to work the elevators. They know the Washy Washy song by heart. They understand that the chicken gyro at “Feta Mediterranean,” in the AquaDome Market, is the least problematic form of chicken on the ship.

The passengers have shed their INAUGURAL CRUISE T-shirts and are now starting to evince political opinions. There are caps pledging to make America great again and T-shirts that celebrate words sometimes attributed to Patrick Henry: “The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people; it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government.” With their preponderance of FAMILY FLAG FAITH FRIENDS FIREARMS T-shirts, the tables by the crepe station sometimes resemble the Capitol Rotunda on January 6. The Real Anthony Fauci , by Robert F. Kennedy Jr., appears to be a popular form of literature, especially among young men with very complicated versions of the American flag on their T-shirts. Other opinions blend the personal and the political. “Someone needs to kill Washy guy, right?” a well-dressed man in the elevator tells me, his gray eyes radiating nothing. “Just beat him to death. Am I right?” I overhear the male member of a young couple whisper, “There goes that freak” as I saunter by in my white spa robe, and I decide to retire it for the rest of the cruise.

I visit the Royal Bling to see up close the $100,000 golden chalice that entitles you to free drinks on Royal Caribbean forever. The pleasant Serbian saleslady explains that the chalice is actually gold-plated and covered in white zirconia instead of diamonds, as it would otherwise cost $1 million. “If you already have everything,” she explains, “this is one more thing you can get.”

I believe that anyone who works for Royal Caribbean should be entitled to immediate American citizenship. They already speak English better than most of the passengers and, per the Serbian lady’s sales pitch above, better understand what America is as well. Crew members like my Panamanian cabin attendant seem to work 24 hours a day. A waiter from New Delhi tells me that his contract is six months and three weeks long. After a cruise ends, he says, “in a few hours, we start again for the next cruise.” At the end of the half a year at sea, he is allowed a two-to-three-month stay at home with his family. As of 2019, the median income for crew members was somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000, according to a major business publication. Royal Caribbean would not share the current median salary for its crew members, but I am certain that it amounts to a fraction of the cost of a Royal Bling gold-plated, zirconia-studded chalice.

And because most of the Icon’s hyper-sanitized spaces are just a frittata away from being a Delta lounge, one forgets that there are actual sailors on this ship, charged with the herculean task of docking it in port. “Having driven 100,000-ton aircraft carriers throughout my career,” retired Admiral James G. Stavridis, the former NATO Supreme Allied Commander Europe, writes to me, “I’m not sure I would even know where to begin with trying to control a sea monster like this one nearly three times the size.” (I first met Stavridis while touring Army bases in Germany more than a decade ago.)

Today, I decide to head to the hot tub near Swim & Tonic, where some of the ship’s drunkest reprobates seem to gather (the other tubs are filled with families and couples). The talk here, like everywhere else on the ship, concerns football, a sport about which I know nothing. It is apparent that four teams have recently competed in some kind of finals for the year, and that two of them will now face off in the championship. Often when people on the Icon speak, I will try to repeat the last thing they said with a laugh or a nod of disbelief. “Yes, 20-yard line! Ha!” “Oh my God, of course, scrimmage.”

Soon we are joined in the hot tub by the late-middle-age drunk guy with the duck necklace. He is wearing a bucket hat with the legend HAWKEYES , which, I soon gather, is yet another football team. “All right, who turned me in?” Duck Necklace says as he plops into the tub beside us. “I get a call in the morning,” he says. “It’s security. Can you come down to the dining room by 10 a.m.? You need to stay away from the members of this religious family.” Apparently, the gregarious Duck Necklace had photobombed the wrong people. There are several families who present as evangelical Christians or practicing Muslims on the ship. One man, evidently, was not happy that Duck Necklace had made contact with his relatives. “It’s because of religious stuff; he was offended. I put my arm around 20 people a day.”

Everyone laughs. “They asked me three times if I needed medication,” he says of the security people who apparently interrogated him in full view of others having breakfast.

Another hot-tub denizen suggests that he should have asked for fentanyl. After a few more drinks, Duck Necklace begins to muse about what it would be like to fall off the ship. “I’m 62 and I’m ready to go,” he says. “I just don’t want a shark to eat me. I’m a huge God guy. I’m a Bible guy. There’s some Mayan theory squaring science stuff with religion. There is so much more to life on Earth.” We all nod into our Red Stripes.

“I never get off the ship when we dock,” he says. He tells us he lost $6,000 in the casino the other day. Later, I look him up, and it appears that on land, he’s a financial adviser in a crisp gray suit, probably a pillar of his North Chicago community.

THE OCEAN IS TEEMING with fascinating life, but on the surface it has little to teach us. The waves come and go. The horizon remains ever far away.

I am constantly told by my fellow passengers that “everybody here has a story.” Yes, I want to reply, but everybody everywhere has a story. You, the reader of this essay, have a story, and yet you’re not inclined to jump on a cruise ship and, like Duck Necklace, tell your story to others at great pitch and volume. Maybe what they’re saying is that everybody on this ship wants to have a bigger, more coherent, more interesting story than the one they’ve been given. Maybe that’s why there’s so much signage on the doors around me attesting to marriages spent on the sea. Maybe that’s why the Royal Caribbean newsletter slipped under my door tells me that “this isn’t a vacation day spent—it’s bragging rights earned.” Maybe that’s why I’m so lonely.

Today is a big day for Icon passengers. Today the ship docks at Royal Caribbean’s own Bahamian island, the Perfect Day at CocoCay. (This appears to be the actual name of the island.) A comedian at the nightclub opined on what his perfect day at CocoCay would look like—receiving oral sex while learning that his ex-wife had been killed in a car crash (big laughter). But the reality of the island is far less humorous than that.

One of the ethnic tristate ladies in the infinity pool told me that she loved CocoCay because it had exactly the same things that could be found on the ship itself. This proves to be correct. It is like the Icon, but with sand. The same tired burgers, the same colorful tubes conveying children and water from Point A to B. The same swim-up bar at its Hideaway ($140 for admittance, no children allowed; Royal Caribbean must be printing money off its clientele). “There was almost a fight at The Wizard of Oz ,” I overhear an elderly woman tell her companion on a chaise lounge. Apparently one of the passengers began recording Royal Caribbean’s intellectual property and “three guys came after him.”

I walk down a pathway to the center of the island, where a sign reads DO NOT ENTER: YOU HAVE REACHED THE BOUNDARY OF ADVENTURE . I hear an animal scampering in the bushes. A Royal Caribbean worker in an enormous golf cart soon chases me down and takes me back to the Hideaway, where I run into Mrs. Rand in a bikini. She becomes livid telling me about an altercation she had the other day with a woman over a towel and a deck chair. We Suites have special towel privileges; we do not have to hand over our SeaPass Card to score a towel. But the Rands are not Suites. “People are so entitled here,” Mrs. Rand says. “It’s like the airport with all its classes.” “You see,” I want to say, “this is where your husband’s love of Ayn Rand runs into the cruelties and arbitrary indignities of unbridled capitalism.” Instead we make plans to meet for a final drink in the Schooner Bar tonight (the Rands will stand me up).

Back on the ship, I try to do laps, but the pool (the largest on any cruise ship, naturally) is fully trashed with the detritus of American life: candy wrappers, a slowly dissolving tortilla chip, napkins. I take an extra-long shower in my suite, then walk around the perimeter of the ship on a kind of exercise track, past all the alluring lifeboats in their yellow-and-white livery. Maybe there is a dystopian angle to the HBO series that I will surely end up pitching, one with shades of WALL-E or Snowpiercer . In a collapsed world, a Royal Caribbean–like cruise liner sails from port to port, collecting new shipmates and supplies in exchange for the precious energy it has on board. (The actual Icon features a new technology that converts passengers’ poop into enough energy to power the waterslides . In the series, this shitty technology would be greatly expanded.) A very young woman (18? 19?), smart and lonely, who has only known life on the ship, walks along the same track as I do now, contemplating jumping off into the surf left by its wake. I picture reusing Duck Necklace’s words in the opening shot of the pilot. The girl is walking around the track, her eyes on the horizon; maybe she’s highborn—a Suite—and we hear the voice-over: “I’m 19 and I’m ready to go. I just don’t want a shark to eat me.”

Before the cruise is finished, I talk to Mr. Washy Washy, or Nielbert of the Philippines. He is a sweet, gentle man, and I thank him for the earworm of a song he has given me and for keeping us safe from the dreaded norovirus. “This is very important to me, getting people to wash their hands,” he tells me in his burger getup. He has dreams, as an artist and a performer, but they are limited in scope. One day he wants to dress up as a piece of bacon for the morning shift.

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE OF THE TITANIC (the Icon of the Seas is five times as large as that doomed vessel) at least offered its passengers an exciting ending to their cruise, but when I wake up on the eighth day, all I see are the gray ghosts that populate Miami’s condo skyline. Throughout my voyage, my writer friends wrote in to commiserate with me. Sloane Crosley, who once covered a three-day spa mini-cruise for Vogue , tells me she felt “so very alone … I found it very untethering.” Gideon Lewis-Kraus writes in an Instagram comment: “When Gary is done I think it’s time this genre was taken out back and shot.” And he is right. To badly paraphrase Adorno: After this, no more cruise stories. It is unfair to put a thinking person on a cruise ship. Writers typically have difficult childhoods, and it is cruel to remind them of the inherent loneliness that drove them to writing in the first place. It is also unseemly to write about the kind of people who go on cruises. Our country does not provide the education and upbringing that allow its citizens an interior life. For the creative class to point fingers at the large, breasty gentlemen adrift in tortilla-chip-laden pools of water is to gather a sour harvest of low-hanging fruit.

A day or two before I got off the ship, I decided to make use of my balcony, which I had avoided because I thought the view would only depress me further. What I found shocked me. My suite did not look out on Central Park after all. This entire time, I had been living in the ship’s Disneyland, Surfside, the neighborhood full of screaming toddlers consuming milkshakes and candy. And as I leaned out over my balcony, I beheld a slight vista of the sea and surf that I thought I had been missing. It had been there all along. The sea was frothy and infinite and blue-green beneath the span of a seagull’s wing. And though it had been trod hard by the world’s largest cruise ship, it remained.

This article appears in the May 2024 print edition with the headline “A Meatball at Sea.” When you buy a book using a link on this page, we receive a commission. Thank you for supporting The Atlantic.

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What's the best state for you », u.s. news announces the 2023 best cruise lines.

Virgin Voyages earns its first No. 1 ranking in the Best for the Money category.

U.S. News 2023 Best Cruise Lines

Washington, D.C. – U.S. News & World Report, publisher of Best Hotels , Best Vacations and Best Travel Rewards Programs , today released its annual rankings of the Best Cruise Lines .

The 2023 rankings highlight 17 cruise lines to help every type of traveler find the cruise that’s right for them. For the first time, Virgin Voyages takes the No. 1 spot in the Best Cruise Lines for the Money ranking, offering the best value among cruise lines. U.S. News considered the overall cruise line quality and average base fare per night, as well as extra benefits such as free gratuities, Wi-Fi access and all-inclusive package options. Carnival Cruise Line, known for its budget-friendly fares and frequent sales, and Celebrity Cruises, which offers a more upscale experience at reasonable rates, rank No. 2 and No. 3, respectively.

For the ninth consecutive year, Disney Cruise Line is the Best Cruise Line for Families . The family-oriented line offers ships with character meet-and-greets, themed dinners, nighttime fireworks, waterslides and more. Royal Caribbean International comes in at No. 2, thanks to its onboard amenities that cater to guests of all ages, while Carnival Cruise Line ranks No. 3, offering family-friendly perks like water parks, basketball courts and ropes courses on its ships.

"After more than two years of sailing restrictions and limited voyage options due to the coronavirus pandemic, cruisers and cruise lines are excited to be on the seas again,'' said Nicola Wood, senior travel editor at U.S. News. "The Best Cruise Lines rankings evaluate a variety of cruise types, making it easy for travelers to find the best options that fit their budgets, cruising styles and desired destinations."

U.S. News ranks cruise lines in six categories: Best Cruise Lines for the Money, Best Cruise Lines for Families, Best Cruise Lines for Couples, Best Cruise Lines in the Caribbean, Best Cruise Lines in the Mediterranean and Best Luxury Cruise Lines. The rankings follow a comprehensive, transparent methodology that factors in expert evaluations of ship quality, traveler ratings, health assessment results and more.

This year's rankings are accompanied by editorial roundups of the top gay cruises for 2023, the top cruise lines for solo travelers and the best cruise insurance ; each piece aims to provide helpful advice and planning information to a wide community of cruisers. U.S. News also offers additional cruise tips and recommendations, such as what to pack on a cruise , the top river cruise lines , fun adults-only cruises and more.

2023 Best Cruise Lines Rankings

See the full rankings here .

Best Cruise Lines for the Money 1. Virgin Voyages 2. Carnival Cruise Line 3. Celebrity Cruises

Best Cruise Lines for Families 1. Disney Cruise Line 2. Royal Caribbean International 3. Carnival Cruise Line

Best Cruise Lines for Couples 1. Viking Ocean Cruises 2. Seabourn Cruise Line 3. Azamara

Best Cruise Lines in the Caribbean 1. Disney Cruise Line 2. Virgin Voyages 3. Celebrity Cruises

Best Cruise Lines in the Mediterranean 1. Viking Ocean Cruises 2. Seabourn Cruise Line 3. Azamara

Best Luxury Cruise Lines 1. Viking Ocean Cruises 2. Seabourn Cruise Line 3. Regent Seven Seas Cruises

For more information on the Best Cruise Lines , explore Facebook , Twitter and Instagram using #BestCruises.

Media Contact: Michelle Day, [email protected] , 202-955-2212

About U.S. News & World Report U.S. News & World Report is the global leader in quality rankings that empower consumers, business leaders and policy officials to make better, more informed decisions about important issues affecting their lives and communities. A multifaceted digital media company with Education, Health, Money, Travel, Cars, News, Real Estate and 360 Reviews platforms, U.S. News provides rankings, independent reporting, data journalism, consumer advice and U.S. News Live events. More than 40 million people visit USNews.com each month for research and guidance. Founded in 1933, U.S. News is headquartered in Washington, D.C.

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The Cruise Industry Is Back—and Breaking Pre-Pandemic Travel Records

A s people around the world followed the early spread of COVID-19 on a Diamond Princess cruise ship quarantined off Yokohama, Japan in February 2020, the cruise industry began to spiral. ”Up until COVID hit, they were having record numbers of sales,” Richard Simms, staff writer for Cruise Radio, says of the cruise lines. But then, “for a while, they became the unattractive face of COVID.”

The pandemic sent the cruise industry into a 15-month shutdown. But it has gradually recovered in the time since—now ships are fully back in business, with new protocols in place. The Cruise Lines International Association forecasts that the number of passengers this year will surpass 2019 numbers—with an anticipated 31.5 million passengers embarking on cruises in 2023.

For a time, protocols included working with the U.S. Centers for Disease Control to come up with industry-wide standards, such as vaccination requirements and testing. But last summer, the CDC ended their COVID-19 program for cruise ships, leaving individual cruise liners to determine their own protocols around mitigating cases.

However, cruises are still required to report outbreaks to the CDC, as they do with norovirus—which has come to be associated with cruise ships due to health officials tracking the virus’ spread on ships. Major cruise lines, including Royal Caribbean, Carnival, and Princess, have dropped their vaccine requirements for most cruises, with a few exceptions (such as some Carnival cruises longer than 16 days, and some cruises departing from Australia).

Aside from that, dining rooms are more spaced out, and people are less likely to squeeze into an elevator, but overall, “it really feels back to normal on board,” says Simms.

For those still hesitant, Simms notes that many lines are investing in a “ship within a ship” concept, like “The Haven” from Norwegian , where travelers can pay a premium for more secluded amenities like a pool, bar, and dining area. “Those were always popular before the pandemic, but I think they might be even more popular now because you’re removed from the rest of the ship,” he says. “You’re in an area where you have limited contact unless you choose to go outside of it. You feel an extra bubble of protection.”

Simms says cruise lines have returned all ships to service, and many have plans to expand to attract younger customers and first-time cruisers. “A good sign for the future of the industry is how many new ships are in the works,” says Simms. “The industry knows it can recover.”

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Carnival’s cruise industry recovery: challenges, progress, and optimistic outlook.

Table of Contents

Key Takeaways

• Adapting to new protocols and navigating through variant waves are major challenges in the cruise industry recovery.
• Despite significant financial losses, Carnival Corporation has seen progress in occupancy rates and booking volumes, with 91% of ship capacity back sailing with passengers and booking volumes reaching the highest levels since the start of the pandemic.
• Increasing vaccination rates among travelers have had a positive impact on Carnival’s recovery, restoring confidence to travel and cruise and leading to a surge in booking volumes.
• Strategic planning, including navigating changing market dynamics and overcoming challenges such as new protocols and high fuel prices, is crucial for a strong and sustainable cruise industry recovery.

Challenges in the Cruise Industry Recovery

Carnival’s Financial Performance During Recovery

Occupancy rates and sailing capacity updates.

Fleet Expansion and Ship Transfers for Recovery

Booking volumes and recovery progress, overcoming new protocols and variant waves, addressing high fuel prices and inflation, returning to pre-pandemic levels: a difficult journey, optimistic outlook for carnival’s recovery, the path to a strong and sustainable cruise industry recovery, frequently asked questions, what are some of the specific challenges faced by the cruise industry in its recovery, how has carnival corporation’s financial performance been affected during the recovery period, what is the current occupancy rate for carnival corporation’s ships and what are their expectations for the third quarter, can you provide some details on the fleet expansion plans and ship transfers that carnival corporation is undertaking, how have booking volumes been progressing for carnival corporation and what does it indicate about the recovery of the cruise industry.

Meet Asra, a talented and adventurous writer who infuses her passion for exploration into every word she writes. Asra’s love for storytelling and her insatiable curiosity about the world make her an invaluable asset to the Voyager Info team.

From a young age, Asra was drawn to the power of words and their ability to transport readers to far-off lands and magical realms. Her fascination with travel and cultures from around the globe fueled her desire to become a travel writer, and she set out on a journey to turn her dreams into reality.

Carnival Cruise Line: Transformative Growth and Enhanced Experiences

Carnival Cruise Lines Unveils Exciting Live Concert Series

Meet Asra, a talented and adventurous writer who infuses her passion for exploration into every word she writes. Asra’s love for storytelling and her insatiable curiosity about the world make her an invaluable asset to the Voyager Info team. From a young age, Asra was drawn to the power of words and their ability to transport readers to far-off lands and magical realms. Her fascination with travel and cultures from around the globe fueled her desire to become a travel writer, and she set out on a journey to turn her dreams into reality.

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What is a folio number carnival cruise.

• A folio number on a Carnival cruise is used to manage and track expenses incurred during the cruise.
• It is different from a booking number, which is used to reserve and confirm a cabin on the cruise.
• Reviewing and understanding the folio statement is important to ensure accuracy of charges and to avoid any unexpected expenses.
• The folio number can be used to dispute incorrect charges and seek resolution for any billing discrepancies.

Definition of a Folio Number

Importance of a Folio Number on a Carnival Cruise

How to obtain your folio number.

• Visit the Carnival website and log into your account.
• Navigate to the ‘Manage My Booking’ section.
• Locate your booking details and find your folio number.

Linking Your Onboard Expenses to Your Folio Number

Tracking your spending with your folio number, settling your account with your folio number, benefits of having a folio number, tips for managing your folio number, common questions about folio numbers answered, final thoughts on the significance of a folio number on a carnival cruise, can i use my folio number for purchases made off the ship, what happens if i lose my folio number during the cruise, is it possible to change my folio number once it has been assigned, are there any fees associated with using a folio number on a carnival cruise, can i link multiple credit cards to my folio number for payment, what is the difference between a folio number carnival cruise and an ultra cruise on carnival.

Claire, a creative soul with an unquenchable thirst for storytelling, is an integral part of the Voyager Info team. As a dedicated writer, she weaves captivating narratives that transport readers to enchanting cruise destinations and beyond.

Claire’s love affair with writing began at an early age when she discovered the magic of words and their ability to craft worlds and emotions. Her innate curiosity led her to explore various literary genres, but it was travel writing that truly captured her heart. Drawing inspiration from her own globetrotting adventures and encounters with diverse cultures, Claire embarked on a journey to become a travel writer par excellence.

What Is Included On A Carnival Cruise

• Carnival Cruise Line offers a wide range of dining options, including casual buffets, elegant sit-down restaurants, and specialty dining experiences with exquisite dishes.
• The entertainment and activities on Carnival cruises are diverse and exciting, with Broadway-style shows, comedy clubs, live music performances, water parks with thrilling slides, and sports facilities for friendly games.
• The accommodations on Carnival cruises are cozy and luxurious, with soft beds, elegant decor, and breathtaking ocean views. There is a range of accommodation types to choose from, all equipped with amenities for comfort.
• Carnival cruises offer a variety of onboard amenities, such as spa and fitness centers for ultimate relaxation, casino and gaming areas for luck and thrill, and shops and boutiques for retail therapy. The spa and fitness center offer rejuvenating treatments, soothing massages, state-of-the-art fitness equipment, and fitness classes led by experienced instructors. The casino and gaming areas provide a wide variety of exciting games and gambling options, including classic table games and slot machines.

Dining Options

Entertainment and activities, broadway-style shows, comedy clubs and live music, water park and sports facilities, accommodations, onboard amenities, spa and fitness center, casino and gaming areas, shops and boutiques, kids and family programs, excursions and ports of call, onboard activities, nightlife and bars, nightclubs and themed bars, live music and dj performances, spa and wellness, customer service and support, what are the safety protocols and measures in place on a carnival cruise, can i bring my own alcohol on board, are there any age restrictions for the different activities and amenities on the cruise, are there any special dining options available for guests with dietary restrictions or allergies, can i bring my pet onboard a carnival cruise, what are the main differences in what is included on a disney cruise compared to a carnival cruise, what is the average age of passengers by cruise line.

Setting out on an exploration across the immense sea of data, my objective is to reveal the age groups that favor cruising as their choice of holiday. This endeavor highlights the varied experiences provided by different cruise lines.

Like a tapestry woven with different threads, each line attracts a unique blend of passengers, creating a vibrant mosaic of age groups.

Carnival Cruise Line, with its playful spirit and lively atmosphere, appeals to a younger crowd, while Holland America Line exudes elegance and sophistication, drawing in a more mature clientele.

Royal Caribbean International and Celebrity Cruises cater to a wide range of ages, offering activities and entertainment for both the young and the young at heart.

Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess Cruises, on the other hand, strike a balance between relaxation and adventure, attracting passengers from various age brackets.

Join me on this enchanting journey as we explore the average age of passengers across these renowned cruise lines, uncovering the hidden patterns within the data.

• The average age of passengers on Norwegian Cruise Line is around 45 years old, indicating a focus on attracting a younger crowd.
• Princess Cruises caters to a diverse range of travelers of all ages, offering family-friendly experiences and a romantic atmosphere for couples.
• Both cruise lines provide exceptional onboard entertainment, including Broadway-style shows, live music performances, cooking demonstrations, and art classes.
• The onboard amenities of both cruise lines include luxurious spas, swimming pools, fitness centers, and facilities for passenger pampering, catering to the enjoyment and relaxation of all passengers.

Carnival Cruise Line

The average age of passengers on Carnival Cruise Line is typically lower than other cruise lines.

Carnival Cruise Line is known for its vibrant onboard entertainment and family-friendly activities, attracting a wide range of age groups.

With a focus on creating a fun and energetic atmosphere, Carnival offers a variety of entertainment options such as live shows, comedy clubs, and themed parties.

Families can enjoy activities like water parks, mini-golf, and age-specific kids’ clubs.

These offerings appeal to younger travelers, contributing to the lower average age on Carnival Cruise Line.

As we transition into the subsequent section about Holland America Line, it is important to note that while Carnival attracts a younger demographic, Holland America Line tends to appeal to a more mature audience.

Holland America Line

Holland America Line offers a sophisticated atmosphere and elegant dining experience that caters to guests seeking a refined cruise experience. With a focus on gourmet cuisine and top-notch service, passengers can indulge in a luxurious dining experience throughout their voyage.

Additionally, Holland America Line offers a wide range of enrichment programs and cultural activities, allowing guests to expand their knowledge and immerse themselves in the destinations they visit. From lectures by experts to cooking demonstrations and art classes, there is something for everyone to enjoy.

Lastly, Holland America Line boasts relaxing spa and wellness facilities that provide the perfect retreat for guests looking to unwind and rejuvenate. With a variety of treatments and therapies available, passengers can pamper themselves and enhance their overall well-being while cruising.

Sophisticated Atmosphere and Elegant Dining

Indulge yourself in the sophisticated atmosphere and elegant dining of Holland America Line, where you’ll discover a world of refined cuisine and exquisite ambiance. This cruise line is renowned for its sophisticated ambiance, immersing passengers in a luxurious environment that exudes elegance. The fine dining options offered onboard are nothing short of exceptional, with a diverse selection of gourmet dishes prepared by talented chefs. From delectable seafood to succulent steaks, every meal is a culinary delight. To add a touch of sophistication to this description, let me present a table that showcases the variety of dining options available:

Now, let’s move on to the next section, where we will explore the enrichment programs and cultural activities offered by Holland America Line.

Enrichment Programs and Cultural Activities

Get ready to immerse yourself in a world of cultural activities and enrichment programs that will captivate and inspire you throughout your Holland America Line experience. Here are four incredible offerings that showcase the line’s commitment to providing a diverse range of experiences:

By offering such a wide array of enrichment programs and cultural activities, Holland America Line caters to a diverse age demographic, ensuring that passengers of all ages can engage in activities that interest them.

Transitioning into the subsequent section about relaxing spa and wellness facilities, you’ll find an oasis of tranquility where you can rejuvenate and unwind.

Relaxing Spa and Wellness Facilities

Immerse yourself in a world of tranquility and rejuvenation with Holland America Line’s relaxing spa and wellness facilities.

With a wide array of spa treatments and wellness programs, Holland America Line ensures that passengers can unwind and revitalize their mind, body, and soul.

From luxurious massages to invigorating facials, their spa treatments are designed to pamper and provide ultimate relaxation.

In addition, meditation classes are offered to help passengers find inner peace and harmony amidst the hectic pace of cruising.

By incorporating these wellness facilities and programs, Holland America Line caters to passengers who seek a holistic experience during their cruise vacation.

Transitioning into the subsequent section about ‘Royal Caribbean International’, let’s explore another aspect of the cruise experience that focuses on entertainment and recreational activities.

Royal Caribbean International

Passengers on Royal Caribbean International cruises tend to be of a certain age, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall atmosphere. With a focus on providing a diverse range of experiences, Royal Caribbean attracts passengers from all walks of life, but the average age of their passengers tends to be slightly higher compared to other cruise lines.

This can be attributed to the cruise line’s reputation for offering a wide array of activities and amenities that cater to a more mature audience. From the luxurious spa and wellness facilities to the refined dining options and entertainment choices, Royal Caribbean ensures that its passengers have a sophisticated and enjoyable experience.

As we transition into the next section about Celebrity Cruises, it is interesting to note that this cruise line also appeals to a similar demographic, but with its own unique offerings.

Celebrity Cruises

Celebrity Cruises offers a sophisticated and elegant atmosphere that transports you to a world of luxury and refinement. With its dedication to providing exceptional service and unparalleled experiences, Celebrity Cruises attracts a diverse range of passengers.

When it comes to the average age of passengers, Celebrity Cruises appeals to a slightly older demographic compared to other cruise lines. The average age of passengers on Celebrity Cruises is around 55 years old, reflecting the brand’s focus on providing a more refined and upscale experience. This age range aligns with the cruise line’s emphasis on cultural enrichment, gourmet dining, and world-class entertainment.

Celebrity Cruises caters to sophisticated travelers who appreciate the finer things in life.

Moving forward to the subsequent section about Norwegian Cruise Line, we delve into a cruise line that offers a different experience for passengers.

Norwegian Cruise Line

As you step aboard a Norwegian Cruise Line ship, you are transported to a world of boundless freedom and exhilarating adventures, where every moment is a thrilling journey waiting to unfold. When it comes to the average age of passengers on Norwegian Cruise Line, the company caters to a diverse demographic. With a wide range of itineraries and activities, Norwegian Cruise Line attracts passengers of all ages, from families with children to older adults seeking relaxation and exploration. However, the cruise line is known for its vibrant and energetic atmosphere, appealing to a younger crowd. According to industry data, the average age of passengers on Norwegian Cruise Line is around 45 years old. This aligns with the cruise line’s focus on providing a dynamic and youthful experience for its guests. Moving on to the next cruise line, Princess Cruises offers a unique and captivating journey.

Princess Cruises

Embark on a majestic voyage with Princess Cruises and immerse yourself in a world of enchantment and discovery.

When it comes to the average age of passengers, Princess Cruises attracts a diverse range of travelers.

With a focus on providing exceptional onboard entertainment and amenities, Princess Cruises caters to passengers of all ages. From Broadway-style shows and live music performances to cooking demonstrations and art classes, there is something for everyone to enjoy.

The onboard amenities are equally impressive, with luxurious spas, swimming pools, and fitness centers to keep passengers pampered and active during their voyage.

So whether you’re looking for a family vacation or a romantic getaway, Princess Cruises offers an unforgettable experience for passengers of all ages.

Can children and teenagers travel on these cruise lines?

Children and teenagers can travel on most cruise lines, but there are age restrictions and youth programs available. The industry recognizes the importance of catering to all age groups, providing a safe and enjoyable experience for everyone.

Are there any age restrictions or requirements for passengers on these cruise lines?

There are age restrictions and minimum age requirements for passengers on cruise lines. Each cruise line has its own policies, but typically children must be at least 6 months old to sail.

Are there any specific cruise itineraries or ships that cater to older passengers?

There are several cruise itineraries and ships that cater to older passengers. These ships offer specific onboard activities and amenities tailored to their needs, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable experience for the older demographic.

Is there any information available about the average age of crew members on these cruise lines?

The average age of crew members varies across cruise lines, and it can have an impact on the passenger experience. Younger crew members may bring a more energetic vibe, while older crew members may offer a more experienced and refined service.

Are there any specific onboard activities or amenities that are popular among passengers of a certain age group?

Popular onboard activities and amenities vary by age group. Younger passengers tend to prefer high-energy activities like rock climbing and water slides, while older passengers often enjoy more relaxed options such as spa treatments and wine tastings.

After analyzing the data on the average age of passengers by cruise line, it is evident that each company caters to a distinct demographic.

Carnival Cruise Line, with its vibrant atmosphere and exciting activities, attracts a younger crowd, while Holland America Line appeals to a more mature audience seeking a refined and elegant experience.

Royal Caribbean International and Celebrity Cruises strike a balance between youth and sophistication, targeting a broad range of age groups.

Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess Cruises cater to individuals seeking relaxation and tranquility.

The cruise industry truly offers something for everyone, ensuring a delightful voyage for every traveler.

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Meet the 81-year-old CEO who built a $10.4 billion luxury cruise line tailored just for baby boomers: ‘They’re the richest group we have around’

A veteran cruise attendee at just 24 years old, Julia Wilcox is used to her inbox flooding with promotional emails from cruise lines courting loyal customers. But Wilcox, who vlogs her cruise experiences on TikTok , said one cruise line takes a more idiosyncratic approach to their marketing: Two or three times a month, she’ll get thick and glossy paper envelopes in the mail from Viking Cruises, the luxury cruise line which with she took a 10-day trip in January 2023. It’s the only cruise company that sends her paper mail—and it does so persistently.

“I get so much paper mail from Viking. I’m like, this is insane,” she told Fortune . “You could send me on a free cruise for the amount of paper and things that you send me.”

While anomalous in its marketing strategy, the logic behind Viking’s insistence on sending snail mail makes more sense after Wilcox, a Gen Z TikToker, admitted she’s not the company’s target audience. In fact, she was four decades younger than the cruise guests’ median age of 60 or 70. That’s just how Viking wants it.

“They’re the richest group we have around,” Viking CEO Torstein Hagen said in a May 1 CNBC Squawk on the Street interview . “They have the money; they have the time.” 

Hagen, who at 81 surpasses his baby boomer target audience, has tailored the cruise to the tastes of the older demographic that holds 70% of the country’s disposable income . There are no kids under 18 allowed, and no casinos aboard. Instead, Viking’s line of 92 vessels—traveling to all seven continents and employing a staff of 10,000—offers walking tours of European cities and cheese tastings.

“It’s a quite serene environment for people up in their ages,” Hagen said, “and for curious people who want to go to destinations, not [who want] to go on waterslides and the like.”

Hagen’s strategy has certainly worked thus far. Viking, with a $10.4 billion valuation , raised $1.5 billion in its initial public offering on May 1, the highest of any company this year. Per an SEC filing from last month, Viking experienced 14.4% growth from 2015 to 2023, the biggest leap of any luxury river or ocean cruise during that period.

“We have a very, very clear focus, and that is reflected in all our customer ratings, the rewards we get, and so forth,” Hagen told CNBC. “It doesn’t make us as large as the others, but it certainly makes us more attractive to the consumer.” 

Viking did not respond to Fortune ‘s request for comment.

The precision and analytical approach Hagen brings to the company reflects his initial pursuit of physics from the Norwegian Institute of Technology before he came to the U.S. and got his MBA at Harvard. Originally from outside of Oslo, the Norwegian developed his business intuition through failure before success. As CEO of cruise line Royal Viking in the 1980s, Hagen arranged for a $240 million management buyout that failed when a competitor made a surprise purchase of the company. He was soon ousted from the role .

Hagen, who operates the company alongside daughter Karine Hagen, founded Viking in 1997 at 54. He considered it a humble venture composed of  “two guys with two mobile phones and four river ships,” according to the company prospectus . From its maiden voyage, Viking’s goal was, in Hagen’s words , to be a thinking person’s cruise, not a drinking person’s cruise.

Viking has benefited from opportune timing for the cruise industry, namely its recovery from pandemic lockdowns that had wealthy vacationers itching for indulgent respites. Patrick Scholes, managing director of lodging and leisure equity research at Truist Securities, is bullish on the industry’s future because of that high demand.

“People want a vacation,” he told Fortune . “They’re looking for something different that they hadn’t done for the first two, three years of COVID, which certainly was going on a cruise ship.”

Cruises developed a reputation during the pandemic, as their closed quarters, conducive to contagious disease, sometimes resulted in boats docking early . Even Viking took a hit after 100 passengers on a June 2023 cruise battled norovirus. Companies sweetened deals to win back customers, offering discounts and promises of private beaches. While restaurants and hotel resorts were slow to recover from the pandemic because of labor shortages , cruise ships’ presence on foreign waters meant not having to abide by U.S. wages and employing ample staff of mostly foreign workers. During Wilcox’s Viking cruise, she marveled at the consistent and frequent turndown and cleaning services.

“In that value proposition is the high, consistent level of staffing and service on a cruise ship,” Scholes said. “You’ve been to a restaurant, you’ve been to a hotel—staffing is a problem, is a challenge after COVID. And cruise lines have not had that problem.”

Bob Levinstein, CEO of travel agency CruiseCompete, told Fortune Viking especially lives up to its value promise, mastering food, service, excursions, and communication into a reliable product.

“They just really have it nailed down,” he said.

More growth for the company is on the way. Having weathered the pandemic, Viking has 24 ships on order , an option for another dozen, and ambitious plans to expand its Chinese customer base to 150,000 passengers by 2025. Viking’s resilience in a tough time for the industry made the decision to go public a no-brainer for Hagen.

“The private equity firms, at some stage, have to create liquidity from their investments, and they’ve been in now for eight years—so it was as good a time as any,” Hagen told Fortune last month. “During the pandemic, it was not easy, and I think now coming out of that and having good results, that was the natural thing to do.”

But tides turn, and the economic waters buoying the cruise business are no exception. As cruise companies accommodate growing demand by commissioning more ships, the promotional packages and companies’ pricing power will ebb, Scholes predicted.

“This is just economic capitalism,” he said. “Come 2029, we’re going to see a lot of new ships, and that’s going to be a lot of cabins to fill. It’ll be difficult to raise prices.”

There’s a reason for Viking to stay level-headed through the industry’s maturation, Levinstein argued. The company’s $1.5 billion IPO was well timed, he said, but it likely won’t make waves for Viking’s future. It’s likely just a way for ownership to stay liquid and pad their wallets.

“That’s only about four of the ocean ships—maybe a little less if prices have gone up since they made their last deal,” he said. “But it’s not game-changing money.”

The cruise’s humble but established amenities aren’t foolproof, either. “The food definitely was a miss,” Wilcox said of her time aboard a Viking, resulting in the “worst” room service hot dog she’d “ever had.” She heard from other cruisers that the specialty menus the cruise promised to change nightly, but the food items offered have been the same for a decade.

The slip-up in Viking’s reputation of rock-solid amenities may be a strike against the “cookie-cutter” model Hagen touts as a reason for the cruise line’s success, but the CEO remains clear-eyed on the company’s philosophy of streamlined, steadfast service.

“In my belief, the moment you try to do everything for everybody, you know what happens?” he said. “You do nothing well.” 

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A Norwegian Cruise Line worker is accused of stabbing people on board with scissors

• A cruise ship worker was accused of stabbing a passenger and attacking crew members.
• The incident occurred on the Norwegian Encore on its voyage to Alaska from Seattle, AP reported.
• The worker was arrested and faces assault charges, the district attorney's office said.

A cruise ship employee was arrested after he allegedly used scissors to stab three people aboard a ship that was traveling to Alaska.

The employee, identified as Ntando Sogoni from South Africa, had recently started working on Norwegian Encore, a ship operated by Norwegian Cruise Line,.

According to AP News , which cited an affidavit from FBI Special Agent Matthew Judy, the ship disembarked from Seattle on Sunday and was scheduled to stop in Alaskan ports, including Junea, during the weeklong voyage.

Sogoni, 35, was on duty on Monday when he began to exhibit "unusual and irrational behaviour," a spokesperson for the Norwegian Cruise Line told Business Insider. He allegedly tried to deploy a lifeboat from the ship, according to a press release issued by the district attorney's office .

According to the FBI, Sogoni was taken to the ship's medical center for examination, where he then "physically attacked" a security guard and a nurse before using a pair of scissors to stab a passenger who was being examined.

Sogoni allegedly stabbed the passenger several times in her arm, hand, and face. A security guard who intervened was stabbed in the head, while a second security guard was stabbed in the back and shoulders, authorities said.

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The conditions of the passenger and staff are unknown, though AP News reported that none of the injuries were life-threatening.

The ship was traveling west of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, when the alleged incident took place, the publication added.

Sogoni was held in the ship's jail before being arrested in Juneau on Tuesday.

Sogoni is facing charges of assault with a dangerous weapon. He could face up to 10 years in prison in addition to a $250,000 fine for each count if convicted, they added.

The cruise industry made $19 billion in revenue in 2022, according to the online data platform Statista .

The US Department of Transportation keeps a record of reported crimes on cruise ships through quarterly reports. According to a recent cruise line incident report , 47 alleged incidents were reported to the FBI between January and March of this year.

Of the incidents reported, eight were recorded as assault with serious bodily injury, one was recorded as a missing US national, and six alleged thefts of under $10,000 were reported. There were also 16 cases categorized as "sexual assault," and a further 16 were categorized as "sexual assault — rape."

The district attorney's office, Juneau's police department, and Sogoni's lawyer did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

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Cruise worker accused of stabbing woman and 2 security guards with scissors on ship headed to Alaska

Updated on: May 8, 2024 / 6:27 AM EDT / CBS/AP

A cruise ship worker from South Africa was arrested Tuesday in Alaska's capital city, accused of attacking a woman and two security guards with scissors on board the vessel, according to authorities.

The U.S. attorney's office says the man, identified as 35-year-old Ntando Sogoni,  is charged with assault with a dangerous weapon within maritime and territorial jurisdiction. Online court records do not show an attorney for the 35-year-old man.

According to an affidavit from FBI Special Agent Matthew Judy, the man was recently hired by a cruise line and joined the ship, the Norwegian Encore, in Seattle on Sunday. The ship set off that day for a weeklong trip with scheduled stops in Alaska ports, including the capital of Juneau, and British Columbia.

The alleged incident happened west of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, as the ship was sailing to Alaska. According to the affidavit, during the late evening on Sunday, ship personnel saw the man trying to deploy a lifeboat, and he was taken by security to a medical center for an evaluation.

While there, he "became irrational and attempted to leave," and "physically attacked" a guard and a nurse, the affidavit states. He ran into another room, where he grabbed a pair of scissors and stabbed a woman who was being examined, as well as two guards who tried to intervene before being subdued and held in a "shipboard jail," the affidavit says. None of the injuries were considered life-threatening.

The ship arrived in Juneau on Tuesday, when he was arrested by the FBI, the U.S. attorney's office says.

If convicted, Sogoni faces a maximum penalty of 10 years in prison and a $250,000 fine for each count. A federal district court judge will determine the sentence.

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Cruise worker accused of stabbing 3 with scissors arrested in Alaska

Federal officials arrested a man accused of assault with a deadly weapon after an incident on a Norwegian ship.

A 35-year-old man working for Norwegian Cruise Line was arrested in Juneau, Alaska, on Tuesday after allegedly stabbing three people aboard a ship with medical scissors on Monday.

The U.S. District Attorney’s office charged Ntando Sogoni, identified as a South African national, with assault with a dangerous weapon within maritime and territorial jurisdiction. Sogoni faces up to 10 years in prison if convicted.

According to an affidavit from FBI Special Agent Matthew Judy, Norwegian hired Sogoni the day before the stabbing. He joined the Norwegian Encore in Seattle.

The affidavit said that crew members saw Sogoni trying to deploy a lifeboat on Sunday and that security officers escorted him to a medical center for an assessment. He then “became irrational and attempted to leave.” The FBI said Sogoni attacked a security guard and a nurse before running into a room where a 75-year-old woman was being examined.

Using a pair of scissors, the affidavit said, Sogoni stabbed the woman in the arm, hand and face. Security officers intervened, and Sogoni stabbed two guards in the head and back. None of the injuries were life-threatening, according to the affidavit.

Sogoni was detained and held in a jail on the ship until it arrived at its next port in Juneau, according to the affidavit. Based on information from Norwegian security, the stabbing is estimated to have occurred at 1:50 a.m. west of Vancouver Island, B.C.

Norwegian did not comment on the status of the victims or what vetting Sogoni received before beginning employment. The company told The Washington Post that it is assisting authorities in the investigation.

“We condemn violent behavior of this nature and are committed to the safety and security of all crew members and guests on our ships,” Norwegian said in an email statement. “We commend the onboard security team for their brave actions.”

The company did not confirm whether the trip continued as scheduled, but online cruise trackers show the Encore in Skagway, Alaska, as of Wednesday — aligning with the cruise itinerary.

More cruise news

Living at sea: Travelers on a 9-month world cruise are going viral on social media. For some travelers, not even nine months was enough time on a ship; they sold cars, moved out of their homes and prepared to set sail for three years . That plan fell apart, but a 3.5-year version is waiting in the wings.

Passengers beware: It’s not all buffets and dance contests. Crime data reported by cruise lines show that the number of sex crimes has increased compared to previous years. And though man-overboard cases are rare, they are usually deadly .

The more you know: If you’re cruise-curious, here are six tips from a newcomer. Remember that in most cases, extra fees and add-ons will increase the seemingly cheap price of a sailing. And if you happen to get sick , know what to expect on board.

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44-Foot Whale Found Dead on Bow of Cruise Ship Coming Into New York

The endangered sei whale, usually found in deep waters, was discovered on the bow of a cruise ship as it arrived at the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal, marine authorities said.

By Livia Albeck-Ripka

As the cruise ship approached New York on Saturday, it was found to be carrying a grim, and unexpected, catch: The carcass of a 44-foot-long endangered whale, draped across its bow.

The whale, which marine authorities described as a sei whale, is known for its rapid swimming and preference for deep waters, far from the coast. Its body was discovered as the ship neared the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal, and the authorities were “immediately notified,” said MSC Cruises, which owns the ship.

A spokeswoman for the company said in an email that it had “comprehensive measures” in place to avoid such collisions, including training deck officers and altering itineraries in certain areas to avoid them. “We will continue to evaluate and update our procedures with our partners and the authorities,” she said.

Marine authorities said that they had towed the animal, estimated to weigh some 50,000 pounds, from the bow, and transferred it by boat to a beach in Sandy Hook, N.J., where they conducted a necropsy on Tuesday.

The investigation is continuing, but preliminary results — broken bones in the whale’s right flipper; tissue trauma along its right shoulder blade; a full stomach and decent layer of blubber — all pointed toward the animal having been in otherwise good health when it was likely struck and killed by the ship, said Robert A. DiGiovanni, the chief scientist of the Atlantic Marine Conservation Society, which is leading the investigation .

The whale was already “pretty decomposed” by the time scientists began the necropsy, he added, so they worked quickly to collect samples that could be tested for contaminants and other biotoxins that would indicate any other relevant health issues. “It looks like the animal was alive and it was hit by a vessel,” he said, noting that investigators had not ruled out other factors.

Mr. DiGiovanni said that his conservation group, which is federally authorized to respond to marine mammal strandings in New York, had dealt with more than 100 whales over the past several years, many of which had been entangled in nets or struck by vessels. Most of those whales were humpback and North Atlantic right whales, he added, noting that it was more uncommon to come across a sei whale.

Sei whales usually live in subtropical, temperate and subpolar waters and are named after the Norwegian word for pollock, “seje,” because the mammals are often found together with the fish. Their long, sleek bodies are usually dark blue or black with a cream-colored underside, and are often scarred by shark and lamprey bites.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, the whales were commercially hunted for their meat and oil, decimating their population, which is now designated as depleted under the Marine Mammal Protection Act .

Mr. DiGiovanni said that the death was a reminder that humans shared the open water with many other mammals. “When you’re out there, these animals might be there,” he said. “We need to make people more aware about how to operate around these animals.”

A spokeswoman for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration said by email that mariners along the East Coast were encouraged to slow down their vessels, stay alert, and report any sightings of dead, injured or entangled whales to the authorities.

Livia Albeck-Ripka is a Times reporter based in Los Angeles, covering breaking news, California and other subjects. More about Livia Albeck-Ripka

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Cruise ship arrives at New York City harbor with dead whale caught on bow

The 44ft-long whale corpse was an endangered sei whale, which will now be examined to determine how it died

A cruise ship has journeyed into New York City’s harbor bearing a gruesome cargo in the form of a huge, dead whale sprawled across its bow.

The incident happened on Saturday, according to local US media reports , and the event is being held by some as further evidence of the unfortunate impact on sea life that large vessels can have.

The 44ft-long whale corpse was an endangered sei whale and was caught on the ship’s bow when it arrived at the Port of Brooklyn, according to a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration fisheries spokesperson, Andrea Gomez.

The boat involved was the Meraviglia, which docked in New York before sailing on a journey to ports in New England and Canada. It is owned by Geneva-based MSC Cruises .

“We immediately notified the relevant authorities, who are now conducting an examination of the whale,” officials with the cruise line said in a statement, who added that the company had regulations in place to avoid collisions with whales and other animals at sea.

“We are deeply saddened by the loss of any marine life,” the statement said.

The whale is now the subject of a necropsy to try and determine how it died, notably if it was already dead when hit by the cruise ship. Sei whales are one of the largest whales and are a protected species.

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