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A Look Back: 1991-2002 Honda ST1100

When Honda introduced the V45 Sabre in 1982, everyone thought the V-4 revolution was at hand. Everyone at Honda, that is. With a few exceptions nobody else jumped on that bandwagon, though Honda continued cranking out sportbikes and cruisers with V4 engines. In 1991, maybe looking for another way to demonstrate its faith in the layout, Honda rotated the engine 90 degrees, put it in an all-new sport-touring chassis with all-enveloping bodywork and a huge underseat gas tank, and the ST1100 was born.

Though big and heavy—61.2 inches between the axles, and depending on the model anywhere from 679 to 737 pounds wet—the ST1100 worked well enough on smooth back roads to keep riders entertained. The 1,085cc “flying” four had the same kind of low-end grunt as its cousins, cranking out a claimed 79 lb-ft of torque and about 100 horsepower. A quartet of carbs nestled between the cylinder banks provided glitch-free fueling, and the 7.4-gallon gas tank kept them fed for up to 300 miles between stops.

As was standard on factory sport tourers of the day, a pair of locking hard cases blended seamlessly into the flanks of the bike, and could be removed and replaced with extra body panels. The OE windscreen kicked up a lot of turbulence, and was often shelved in favor of an aftermarket unit that produced less buffeting. For many riders the stock seat wasn’t up to the range provided by the big tank, and the low handlebar was often replaced with something higher; the conventional tubular-bar design made that an easy swap.

About the only other feature that came in for criticism was the 28-amp alternator on the pre-1996 models. It wasn’t up to powering all the auxiliary lights, heated clothing and other gadgets riders added, and some failed outright. In ’96 a 40-amp unit replaced the old one. It can be retrofitted to older bikes, but it’s not a simple job, to some extent resulting in the higher prices you’ll find for later ST1100s.

ABS and traction control were options, and in 1996 the ABS models also came with linked brakes. The twin front discs worked fine under all but the most extreme use, where they tended to overheat and fade; a brake pad upgrade and fresh fluid generally solved the problem. The driveshaft produced some hop in response to ham-handed throttle use but otherwise performed without complaint.

Many used ST1100s show fairly high mileage—few ended up as garage queens—but the model’s reliability is legendary. Valves, once adjusted, stay that way for a very long time, and with regular oil changes most bikes will glide past the 100,000-mile mark with no fuss at all. One thing you don’t want to skip is timing-belt replacement, set by Honda at 90,000-mile intervals; push your luck there and you risk bent valves.

On used ST1100s check the rear brake caliper for corrosion caused by water thrown up in the rain, and look under the bike for rusting exhaust components. If the bike has been down it’ll be obvious—there’s hardly a square inch of it that isn’t covered with plastic—and inspect the covers on the tipover bars for evidence of, well, tipovers. The hard cases that came stock on the bike should be included in the deal, too.

Expect to pay somewhere between $2,400 and $3,500 for a good used ST1100. Post-’96 models are typically at the higher end of the price scale, as are those with ABS and traction control, which came as a package. Most examples you find will have at least a few accessories like a taller screen, a custom seat or a passenger backrest; these add to the appeal of a bike but not necessarily to its price unless they’re accessories you’d add anyway.

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I owned a couple of ST1100s. They were fabulous bikes. Great handling despite their weight and comfortable for both pilot and passenger.

Interestingly, Honda of Germany had a great amount of influence on their original design and it shows. They seemed like they were meant as the ultimate autobahn blasters, capable of hour after hour cruising at 100mph plus speeds. The underseat gas tank dropped the center of gravity and helped give it a very planted feel at such high speeds.

Too bad that it’s successor, the ST1300, didn’t live up to the reputation of its predecessor

Had two ST1100’s also, still have a ’96 and agree with all John F said. I liken it to the feel of riding a locomotive, when at speed. Rock solid and it can go more than fast enough to scare me! Great in the twisties, with a potential lean angle that leaves little room on the tires for chicken strips. With a new Russell Day Long saddle, a Canada coast to coast and back again trip was a real pleasure, 5,000 km of that with the missus aboard. The weather protection provided by the fairing really is phenomenal, with a slightly higher non OEM screen, of course.

are you interested sell this bike

I have one for sale in London, ON Canada. 2001 ST 1100 with low kms

I’m a 6’4” first owner on a 2000 ST100. I’ve never found a motorcycle that fit me quite so well. I rode a GS 1200 BMW in Europe this summer & expected that would ruin the appeal of my ST. They come from two different technological eras but when it comes right down to it the ST remains intensely satisfying.

A ’99 ST was my first bike when I started riding in ’07. As a 5’8″ first-time rider, I dropped it so many times I lost count, but it was 100% reliable and smooth. Eventually, of course, I learned how to handle it under any normal conditions and the dropping stopped. Since then, I had a brief stint on a VFR800 and lately have been enjoying an FJR1300. It feels light, low, and easy to handle, but I’ve a sneaking suspicion the ST would be more comfortable.

Waaoo great!…

Abigail, I’m really interested in your comparison between the Yam FJR1300 and the ’99 ST. I’ve owned an ’09 Yam FJR 1300 and loved the bike, but I really didn;t need all that power, plus (at 5’8″) the bike was a bit too tall for me. I really want a bike that is about 70-80% of the FJR and a used ST1100 might be perfect. What do you think between those two?

I have a 1997 ST 1100 I bought new. 51050 miles, tall windshield, Corbin seat, Givi trunk with a custom back rest and cruise lock. Bike has never been dropped and all maintence including rear splines has been done by the book. No rust on brakes, exhaust or swing arm. I tried last fall to sell it for $2850 and only got one call, no takers. [email protected] .

Still have the bike? Give me a call. 801 201-2293

Abigail, I currently have (and plan to for a long time) a ‘98 vfr800. It’s fantastic. I added a throttle lock to it, a givi D200S windscreen and some older Givi E-21 side cases. I drove 650 miles one way to get it. Best purchase ever.

I currently own a runner, and am building a second 91 St1100’s. Had a low mileage garage bike and ran it for years. Don’t like the 1300. Different feel. Best unknown bike for the money. Worth the parts you put in, the miles you drive. Not much else. Accord on two wheels, ok except the bike handles. With the new LED lights you can add lights without having to buy the expensive upgrade altantor. Upgraded the front forks springs for two up touring for cheep as well.

After riding Goldwings for 20 years I had a chance to try a 2000 ST1100. I ended up buying it the same day, wish I had rode one years ago.

I will be buying a 2002 ST Honda this weekend for less than $2000 it has 60,000 miles on it is this a good deal it is very well taken care of and it is a second on her bike

scored a 98 st1100 for $2500 a few years back, put a sargent seat on it, had the rear shock spring replaced, pair of Michelin PR’s, stuffed an escort bird dog into the faring with a dash mount LED indicator, ram mounted go pro required a slick handle bar adapter and a coupla of clamps bolted together, but works great and gets around the windshield. Will be taking it back to Denver where I keep it stored ( $9/15 min off the plane) .Shakedown run after winter maintenance was this week on the dragon, very few bikes up there, but should be a pic on 3/14 of the only black ST up there. I owned an 02 rt1150, put over 100k on it b4 harley in my lane took me out on skyway….paid cash for a 1290 SA when the settlement paid out, it’s amazing, but something about this ST has filled the hole my RT left, i was ready to ride it forever, and riding the ST reminds me so much of that RT, and the ST is, i will confess, a better value, hands down, to own. put 3 final drives in that RT, and the insurance alone on the KTM is $1200/yr vs $300 for the ST…i could have 3 st’s spread out x-country if i could bring myself to sell the 1290 SA…never touch a 1290 SA, it truly amazing and worse than a crack habit to support, very addictive, i’ll never be able to sell it, but it’s the ST that charms me, a worthy long sword superslab transporter with surprising handling once you correct worn suspension and put Pilot Roads on it..

I’ve had my 98 ST1100 for a few years now. Ridden it around a fair bit. Never saw any 300 miles on a single tank of gas!

That said, it’s a good bike when the fuel pump doesn’t quit on you.

Looking at same yr and model what do you get out of a tank ? Anything to look out for

I’ve had one for close to twenty years and have done over 300 miles on a tank on numerous occasions. Regardless of the pace, it averages about 46 mpg both one or two up and cruises nicely at 85 mph… With other motorcycles in the garage, the ST110 is now reserved for our two-up trip rides.

I’ve a 2007 ST1300. My wife had a massive stroke in August of that year and spent months in the hospital and rehab. I put 8300 miles on it before that. It became my daily ride. However, it sat and the fuel pump seized due to gas separation. This past May while pushing it out the shop I sat on it and I wondered if it would run. The local dealer said it wouldn’t. Long story short, I pushed it back in the shop. After a fuel pump replacement, fuel line cleaning, injector cleaning, battery replacement, and fluids change I fired it up. I’ve put 2K on it thus far and remember why I loved this bike.

Hey JB, been riding years before the Ethanol thing. I use a fuel conditioner called; ‘ Sentry ‘ the marine type for gas. CAnnot say enough good about this stuff. It will cure the gas seperation problem, heck it will even ‘fix’ old dead fuel . ( Seen this happen in a varnish smelling tank on a lawn mower!) 2006 Vulcan VN2000 at about 80mph the exhaust note would change, I’d back off and run about 75 on I-75. Started to use this product to combat seperation a cap full at fill up. I was passing cars waiting for exhaust note change . was doing 97-98mph. Also I sold this bike at 131,000 miles and there was vitually no leakdown loss at all and was kinda nerve racking as it never used any oil between changes. PS used T6 at every 2500 miles . Blew my back out in 2014 only reason I sold it. Bought 2014 Honda GL1800 with a voyger ‘traing well’ kit. after that in ’18’ . Sold it as It just didn’t fit right and would cause things to go to sleep, possibly from back injury, not sure. Now seen a ST1100 on here and researching. Seen your post on fuel seperation and pass on what I know. Ride safe

My 99 ST had 24k when I purchased it, two years ago. In the last three weeks I have added about 4k with a single day (14 hours) 790 mile jaunt. That is a 56mph average. I 🖤 my ST. It isn’t the city commuter that my other cycles have been but it has carried my BMX bike and even another bike or two with zero complaints.

By chance can you send pics of your bike rack set up? I used to just use a saris slide in hitch rack on my goldwing

i purchased a 1993 st1100a acouple months ago. better than any harley i ever owned. it goes plces you wouldn’t think a bike like that would go. i don’t know about the 300 miles yet. getting ready to go to arizona on it. thats how dependable it feels.

Have had my ST1100 for five years bought at 53k now has 67k love this bike since day one. On the freeways it’s like Dream. Solid at high speeds. Cutting curves on the Northern California mountain roads is a pleasure at ease. Smooth yet throaty sound. At 70yrs old the day I dump it, it will have to go. I’ll have to go to a Strom or a FJ-09. Not looking forward to that day.

Bought my 2000 ST new and covered 185,400 miles to date——-the finest bike that I’ve owned in over 55 yrs of riding. Never any problems but things are beginning to wear out ——-obviously.

Wow. I’m impressed

I like the numerous pleasant testimonies I’ve heard about this ST1100 Honda bike and would really love to own one as am a bike enthusiast… Am from Ghana in West Africa…who will sell one to me please?…

Simple Contact a dealer.

Hola Bright

Please email me if you’re interested in a 2013 gold wing

Did you ever find one? I have the 2002 AT Model – ABS and Traction Control, the last and very best of the ST1100’s. Candy bApple Red!!! You can see it on Craigslist Tucson. 46,900 miles. Well maintained. New Michellin Road 6, brakes, fluids and battery. Corbin Seat. Never been down. No dings, scratches, dents or leaks of any kind. You will not find a better one. My last ST1300 I sold, the buyer drove van and trailer non-stop from Oregon to get it. This is testament to how really great the ST bikes are, and I agree the 1100 is better than the 1300. This ad dated: 7/6/23. I’m 80. Time to quit. $3400 Firm + shipping. Purchase price and shipping & handling cost to be prepaid in cash. I imight deliver. (Buy me a plane ticket home.)

I’ve owned a 1999 ST for 7 years now and still love riding this thing. 300 + miles per tank is not unusual AT ALL . This thing averages 50 mpg. . Great bike .

Got my ST1100 new in 2001. Crossed Canada wide 4 times and many long trips into the US. Have done a lot of commuting as well. There will always be room in my garage for this awesome motorcycle. Biggest day was 1720Km in 14 hours of spirited riding. Was happy to get back in the saddle the next morning.

I first saw a pan st1100 in the 90s when I was sat outside my local pub. I was taken by it’s looks. I’d never seen a bike quite like it. So! Many years later I decided to get another bike. What to buy?? I decided a I wanted a touring bike though adventure bikes have always been my thing. I bought a 2000 pan st1100 CBS ABS TCS with 43,000 miles on it. All stock. Changed the screen for a taller one. Put a custom seat on it. Fitted a 52ltr top box added sat nav and usb power point onto a bar I made and fitted over the dash. I was very wary of it weight very. It’s taken time to get used to the weight but now I’m ok with it. As a bike? Well! What can I say? One of the nicest bikes I’ve ever ridden and I still don’t understand why they stopped making them?? I’m used to it’s weight now and literally as soon as the wheels start turning its balance is great! It’s not a bike to have it’s backside thrashed out of it. The secret is to use its torque and it has enough. I’ve changed the way I ride and am now enjoying this bike very much. If not thrashed it’s very good on fuel. Better than most newer bikes I think. So! Honda why don’t you make a commemorative st1100. If I hadn’t bought this I would have bought the VFR 1200. Again a nice bike but didn’t really take off??

Bought my ’95 ST 1100 in Aug. 2004, w/ 32K miles on it.. paid the seller extra for the Mustang gel seat (over the stock one) and for a rear rack & backrest..options well worth having, esp. the backrest- if you ride anyone. Sadly, haven’t put the miles on it that I had expected..only about 30K more, in 16 yrs. isn’t much. My riding miles get split between a garage full of bikes.

BY 2004, I ‘D BEEN RIDING FOR 30+ YRS..dirt bikes of all types, motocross, Trials, street bikes, have owned over 30 bikes..most bought new, (early in my riding experience) after gaining some experience, most have since been purchased used. Last new bike was a ’98 VTR 1000.

I’d rate my ST 1100 in the top 4 or 5 of my favorite bikes.. Owned a GL 1200A for many years, & 60+K miles, & would be in my top 3 favorites.. the ST is close to that GL.. Other favorites are a 1991 VFR 750 & a ’79 FXEF Harley. My ST came with handlebar swap, Progressive fork springs, I added a Works Performance rear shock (used-from e-bay & put on a set of 2 Bros. Racing slip-on “mufflers”. They stayed on for maybe a week..replaced them back with stock mufflers.. (2BR’s were too loud.) Strange, that I’ve put only about 30K miles in the 16 yrs. I’ve owned my ST.. used it for commuting to work, running errands, & hasn’t left the state of MI. since I’ve owned it..Plan was to use it on many cross country trips, but plans change, unfortunately.

Having ridden my GL for years, the ST’s weight wasn’t much of a factor..it’s a little lighter, faster, but doesn’t have the same severe weather protection the the GL has..(esp. noticeable when caught in heavy rain.)

St has been remarkably reliable..oil & filter changes, tires & brake pads.. As reliable as most cars..good power, & handling, very planted in corners. Love the torque of a V-4 motor (& v-twin)..pulls strongly when desired. I feel the ST1100 is one of those under appreciated bikes, with used ones selling for prices well below what they’re worth..IMO

If anyone reading this is considering one..I’d suggest going for it. Nice, fairly low mile bikes are selling for around $3K in my market area..a real bargain.

I just committed to buying a 92′ with 57k miles. My only concern is the heat coming off onto my legs. My 86′ Kawasaki Concours has the same problem and I haven’t found a cure. Looking forward to cold weather when I’ll appreciate the heat but right now it’s 100 degrees and the extra heat is not fun. I just test rode the ST and the gears are SO different from my Concours, I’m always looking for another gear that just isn’t there past 70 mph. The Honda is geared such that 4th feels like 6th on the Concours and 5th on the Honda is like overdrive. No wonder people report getting 50 mpg. Looking forward to riding to California from Fort Worth Texas very soon. The tires are brand new and the PO just did a tune up so it’s ready to cruise.

I bought my 1998 st1100 4 years ago with 10,200 miles on it. I put fresh tires on it and painted the rust prone exhaust areas with POR-15 anti-rust paint. No rust damage had begun so this was precautionary. The other thing I did was add an inner rear fender extension that protects the swing arm cross brace from being blasted by road grit and salt. This might help delay the start of rusting on parts of the exhaust piping. This is a great touring bike.

Hi all. I bought a 2002 ST1100 two years ago…had 24K miles and showroom condition. Put about 7K miles on it since and could not be happier. A couple of 400 mile days and could have kept going. Cruise at 80mph all day, smooth as silk, and carves the corners once I learned to trust it. Handlebars raised 2″ and aftermarket taller windscreen. My only complaint, and pretty minor, engine temp in stop-and-go traffic. On a warm day at a two minute stop light, temp goes about three quarters to H. Fan eventually kicks on and maintains, but doesn’t cool until I moving again. Is this a thing with ST’s? Thanks and be safe.

It appears to be I installed a manual switch bypassed the thermostat now at idling just turn the switch on problem solved

I bought a 91 st a couple of years ago, to take some of the work off of my Vmax. The bike has now become my main ride. Its no lightweight, but it handles well, the 7+ gallon under seat tank make for that weight to balance out nicely and the need to constantly Seek out gas stations a big bonus. I’ve owned many motorcycles in including a goldwing and this old st is hands down my favorite ride.

Well, be 81 in a couple mons. Been riding over 60 yrs. Bought a 2003 ST1300 3years ago; forgot how much fun riding could be. So much so , that 4 mons. later I bought an additional 2005 ST1300 with only 19K miles.( I’ve got 13 bikes) I tend to supply my 2 sons with rides on trips. Of all of them, I prefer the ST s; including the 97 BMW R1100RT. No doubt, both 1100 and 1300 ST s are keepers. And, “You meet the nicest people on a Honda”. Still true today.

just purchased a 2002 33,000 mile for under $3000… clean bike.I went on first “long” 300+ mile ride with lots of twisties. It did really well and like mentioned above once I trusted it wasn’t going to slip it moved flawlessly through miles of twisties.

On my second ST1100, unbeatable for freeway work. Just retired, Phoenix area, commute done, need a smaller bike. 2002, 90K, purchased new.

My coworker picked up a 1999 st100 that was garage kept, and a trade in at the local Harley dealer. It had 16k miles on it if I remember correctly. Well he bought another Harley, his dream bike he says. Now I get to buy the st1100 from him this weekend. He is ready to part with it @ 19k miles for 2000$. I’m excited to go get it as I have been dreaming of a touring bike to go along with my dirtbike, super sport bike, and city sport. The ST is silver and completely stock

Just bought a 2001 st1100. 15, 000 miles on the meter.had been laid down.after a fairing replace and paint job.is the best bike i have ever had.

I have a 1994 st1100r with 42000 miles id be interested in letting go

just bought my 1st st1100 been riding for 40 years . just didnt want to go to the gold wing age yet. still have my 81 900f for the fast stuff. cant believe how smooth this bike is .. cross Canada doesnt seem so far….

i bought a 1999 with 50 somes km in 2019 and ride as a kid, squize the trhottle pretty much for my age, i cant stop finding a way or a plaçe to have to go to be on it , and wish to live old to go through, it ride like ice cream, fast ,fun and confortable so far the best .

still lots of snow and the roads are horribless.

96 st1100 51k I was trip 100 mph to 120 mph no sleep for 18 hour engine still strong run for 18 hour wow

You do meet the nicest people on a honda i have had many cb360(4) 650 nighthawk,, v45 magna,, 1000 intercepter ,,2005 st 1300 in red (stunning) my pride and joy 1999 valkyrie with the big flat 6 1520 cc 6 Mikuni carbs and six solid chrome headers into 6 growlers wrapped into 2 big squares she was my flyin angel and my Harley eater custom ordered in yellow and cream all gone now however TODAY2 days short of my 60th birthday i am heading out to buy a 1998 valk tourer in jet black and a v45 magna with 0n 13.000 kms on it show room and so the love affair begins again ride or die!!!!! eh sorry Canadian couldn’t help it

1991 honda st1100 mint total rebuild restored for sale. 7500 Pics See in st Pete fl [email protected] It’s been totally brought back to show room by 40 honda mechanic

The bike I will always miss…..so many great trips on the red ’97. Never failed me. Heavy in the parking lot but once rolling lightens up. Change out the seat and you can ride five hours at a pop. The only issue I had was changing light bulbs…beasty. Solved that with a set of aux lights. No wonder they are so widely used by police forces and parameds in Europe. Yep, will always miss that bike.

I have a 1991 st1100 with 25000 been Kaye’s down twice and rides just as strong as ever

1 had a brand new 1991 ST1100 untill 2016 when It was damaged by a car. It had about 18400 miles. I found a used 1991 three years with 9500 miles for $3500 and bought it. It has been the best motorcycle for the money.I used for commuting , grocery shopping, anything. I wish Honda was still producing them.

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Honda St1100

Honda St1100 June 1 1990

HONDA ST1100

CYCLE WORLD TEST

MORE THAN AN RC30 BUILT FOR TEO, MORE THAN A EUROWING

A 600-MILE DAY? NOTHING TO IT; AS EASY AS wolfing down chips and salsa at your favorite Mexican restaurant. Why, any self-respecting touring-bike rider could click off 600 miles of interstate super-slab and be done in time for an early supper. Things become more challenging, though, if the trip itinerary includes less-traveled paths, say the Pacific Coast Highway as it winds its way up the shorelines of northern California and Oregon through small fishing villages and past grazing sheep, the road folding back on itself like a dog nipping after its own tail.

All right, then, trade the Gold Wing in for something better suited to swervery; what the heck, go for broke and order up an RC30. Great idea, except that holding a semiroadracing tuck for 600 miles can be a little tiring. A sore neck and aching wrists don’t exactly promote sightseeing, and that was one of the reasons for taking the scenic route in the first place. It’s also tough to stow more than a tooth brush and a clean pair of bikini briefs aboard an RC30, especially if you don’t want to look like Jed. Granny and clan on their way to Beverly. Hills, that is.

No, forget the Wing, nix the RC. What we need is a bike that handles, a bike that’s comfortable, a bike with some carrying capacity. A bike like Honda’s new STI 100.

Sport-touring bikes have never really caught on in America. A small throng swears by BMW’s RS series, and Kawasaki’s Concours has a loyal following, though the bike sold poorly enough in 1987 and ’88 that Kawasaki called for a one-year hiatus in production before cranking up the assembly lines again this year. In the past, there was Honda’s CBX Six with a half-fairing and bowling-bagsized panniers, a bike that proved as popular then as embassy duty in the Middle East is today.

Given sport-tourers less than warm embrace by the majority of U.S. riders, it shouldn’t come as a shock that the ST is primarily a European motorcycle. In fact, the idea for the bike was conceived by Honda Germany, and the project continued as the first joint effort of Honda Japan

and Honda Europe. Sport-touring bikes make good sense in Europe, where a Gold Wing just feels clumsy and is barely fast enough on the autobahns to stay out of the bumpers of swift-running Mercs and Bimmers. And, yes, any 600cc-and-above sportbike is fast enough for the highways and handles well enough for the mountain passes Over There, but European necks and wrists aren’t any less susceptible to cricks than ours, and, if anything, European riders heap more gear on bikes then we do.

So, Europeans get the ST l 100 (and an additional moniker for the bike, “Pan-European”), and we in the U.S. are given another chance to take a sport-tourer to heart.

There’s nothing earth-shattering about this new motorcycle’s chassis. The ST’s frame is made of mild steel, and :

apart from tubes slightly larger in diameter than normal and some unusual curves around the engine, students of frame-making will find little else noteworthy here.

Likewise, no new ground is broken by the ST 1100’s suspension. The fork has 41mm stanchion tubes and is non-adjustable. A cartridge damper contained in the right fork leg and an anti-dive mechanism in the left at least keep the front suspension out of the Stone Age. Rear suspension is handled by a single shock, adjustable for spring preload and rebound damping. Like the system used by BMW, the Honda’s shock is located on the right side of the bike and connects the swingarm and frame directly, without benefit of a rising-rate linkage system. As on BMWs, the ST’s swingarm contains the bike’s drive shaft, but it has two conventional arms rather than being single-sided as are the swingarms used on the German machines. The 1100 also makes do without the Paralever anti-chassisjacking mechanism that is used to good effect on the R100GS and the new K1.

The bodywork that wraps around the ST l 100’s running gear shows that Honda learned from the criticisms that were leveled against the Kawasaki Concours’ wavy, poorly fitting panels. The ST’s multi-piece fairing fits together well, and the cockpit surfaces are nicely finished in a pebble-grain pattern. The bike’s removable saddlebags, each of which will easily swallow a full-face helmet, are well integrated into the bike’s lines.

Opinions on the ST’s appearance varied wildly. Many observers, particularly non-motorcycle enthusiasts, were bowled over by the bike, using words like “beautiful,” “refined” and “classy.” The more involved in the sport a person was, the less enthusiastic his view of the ST tended to be. More than one rider referred to the bike as looking like a “Pacific Coast on hormones,” and there was the Ninja 900 rider who trailed the ST for a few blocks before pulling alongside, pointing at the Honda and then wigwagging his outstretched hand in the universal symbol of so-so-ness.

During our 2500 miles with the ST, any lukewarm feelings about its looks by test riders were nullified soon after the reviewer climbed aboard the bike and set off for the next gas stop. “Great engine,” was the universal acclaim as soon as the helmet came off at the other end. And indeed it is.

The ST continues Honda’s fascination with V-Four powerplants, but this time, there’s a difference. Instead of the now-familiar across-the-frame disposition of the crankshaft as exhibited in Honda’s Interceptor, Sabre and Magna series, the ST engine has been swung around 90 degrees so that its crank runs fore and aft, and its cylinder banks angle out to the sides. This is the same configuration as Moto Guzzi’s Twins and Honda’s own now-defunct CX500 and CX650 push-rod Twins. And, in fact, when the CX500 was introduced in 1978, there were rumors that two of the engines would be linked together to form a longitudinal V-Four.

Twelve years later, the 90-degree, liquid-cooled V-Four mostly hidden behind the ST’s plastic panels shows some automotive influence, as well. With its car-like valve covers, complete with an oil-filler cap that might well have been lifted from a Civic or Accord, visible through the gilled side panels, it would be easy to believe that the engineers in the Honda’s car division had as much to do with the engine’s design as the bike guys did.

That theory is further supported by the ST’s timing belt, a toothed rubber affair that winds its way over various cogs and pulleys at the front of the engine, just as many cars’ timing belts do. But there’s some new thinking going on here. Rather than loop the timing belt over a gear on the end of each cylinder assembly’s two overhead camshafts, a configuration that adds height to an engine, Honda’s engineers devised a set-up where the belt drives a gearset situated between and slightly below the cams. Thus, the ST uses belt-actuated, gear-driven camshafts.

Of course, all of this engineering acumen, which has resulted in the application for 14 patents covering the engine, wouldn’t be worth a warm cup of used 20w-40 if the motor didn’t work out on the road, which it does. Thumb the engine into life and it quickly settles into a 1 200-rpm idle, accompanied by a gear whine that’s reminiscent of the noise made by BMW’s threeand four-cylinder Kbikes. The whine is soon drowned out by the flat exhaust note of the V-Four. The ST has a 360-degree crankshaft, but unlike some earlier Honda V-Fours that used a 360degree crank and had powerbands about as exciting as elevator music, the new engine has some personality. One rider likened the motor to BMW’s lOOOcc opposed-Twin, albeit one that had been eating its Wheaties and working out three times a week.

Performance-wise, the ST is no quicker or faster than its chief rivals, the K 1OORS and Concours. Where the Honda has an advantage is in its tall gearing. At 60 miles per hour, notching from fourth gear up to fifth drops the revs from 3700 to just over 3000, a Harley-like level that is 500 to 600 rpm lower than the competition. This Iong-leggedness is accompanied by almost-vibrationless running at the speeds that most American riders will encounter. Thanks for this go to the V-Four layout—inherently smoother than an inline-Four—plus a counterbalancer and rubbermounted handlebar and footpegs. Zing the tach to it’s 8000-rpm redline and some quaking can be felt in the footpegs and seat, but the mirrors remain as clear as cable television no matter what rpm the engine is spinning.

The ST1 100’s suspension compliments the engine’s big strides, soaking up most jolts before they can do any damage to the rider. We found that setting the rear shock to its fourth (of five) spring-preload position and screwing the damping adjuster one-half turn short of maximum matched the fork’s action nicely and got rid of a weaving in fast corners that was evident with the shock on its softest settings. Still, some riders felt the lack of front-fork adjustability and the rear suspension’s lack of a rising-rate linkage system hurt the bike in fast cornering, noting a vagueness in the front end and the inability of the shock to deal with sharp bumps at high speed. It can be argued that a $9000 flagship sport-tourer ($2200 more than the Concours, about $3000 less than the yet-to-be-released 1990 K100RS) ought to come with more sophisticated suspension.

Be that as it may, it should be noted that the ST1 100, a bike with comparatively lazy frame geometry, an 18-inch front wheel and a dry weight of 658 pounds, was ridden from Portland, Oregon, to Los Angeles in the company of the four 750cc sportbikes tested elsewhere in this issue. On unfamiliar roads, the ST, unsophisticated suspension and all, gave a good account of itself, dogging four of the besthandling motorcycles on Earth, only losing ground when the cornering elevated to wham-bam, knee-skimming velocities.

And the ST is blessed with comfort that no repli-racer can match. Fairly wide, tubular handlebars rise three inches, allowing a sporting but comfortable stance. The stepped seat will allow about 250 miles of the bike’s 300mile range to be used without numbing the rider’s derrière, at which point the fuel-reserve light is on and its time to look for gas anyway. Wind protection is excellent for riders 5 foot 10 and below, though taller riders complained of buffeting, especially at high speeds.

In the end, the ST will win friends not on any single virtue, but on the combination of its likable engine, its competent handling and its well-thought-out features. No, it’s not a Gold Wing born in Europe. It’s not an RC30 built for two, nor is it an Oriental BMW. Think of the ST 1 100 as the arrival, at last, of the Japanese sport-tourer.

EDITORS' NOTES

A SPORT-TOURING MOTORCYCLE FITS my street-riding desires perfectly. I've enjoyed riding BMW's sporttourers over the years, and I bought one of the first Kawasaki Concours. So, Honda's new sport-touring model quickly grabbed my attention. And after riding the ST1100 for several hundred miles along the California and Oregon coasts, I'm even more excited: Its V-Four engine is smooth, powerful, responsive and flexible, and its suspension provides a plush ride while droning along at normal touring speeds, and does a respectable job of keeping the bike stable when the road sprouts curves. The handlebar is just the right height. shape and reach for me, but the ST1 100's otherwise nicely padded seat lets me slide forward into the back of the fuel tank under hard braking.

That glitch wouldn't stop me from buying an ST. but the bike's retail price of $8998 would probably bring a gasp from my wife. I think after a couple of rides, she can be convinced. -Ron Griewe, Senior Editor

I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO come out with the. ultimate sporttouring motorcycle for quite some time. I appreciate BMW's idiosyn cratic machines, and Kawasaki's Concours was a great attempt. but I want something more refined. Some thing like Honda's new ST 1100. The ST's secret lies in its whopping I 11%... ) I %./~ II'..~ I1 VV 1085cc V-Four engine. This baby steams, especially in its~ low and mid, range. I like the upright seating position and the wide handlebar that allows me to click off miles effortlessly, all the while being protected from the ele ments by the large windscreen and fairing. The detach~ able luggage is a bit small, but it's better than having to bungee and strap bags all over the bike.

Don't get me wrong. even a motorcycle as good as the ST is not my ultimate sport-touring machine. It's a bit too big and heavy for that. But it comes real close.

-Camron E. Bussard, Executive Editor

OFFICER BARDER OF THE OREGON State Troopers didn't have much to say about the STI 100's sophisti cated, integrated appearance. I ex plained that the Honda had been bred for the autobahns of Germany. and that it had such a torquey, tall geared motor that I really had no choice but to rundown his section of U.S. 101 at 80 miles per hour, especially since road con ditions were good and traffic was light. He wasn't buying any of it, and kindly invited me to contribute $ 1 72 to the state's coffers.

Had Officer Barder been a little more lenient, i'd have told him how much I liked the ST. How I thought the ST was at least $2000 better than Kawasaki's Concours. How it's preferable to the BMW sport-tourers I've rid den. I'd even have told him that as impressive as it is, the ST is in need of a few options. I'd like to see a flatter seat offered. A radio/cassette player would be nice. Maybe a cruise control.

And definitely a radar detector.

-David Edwards, Editor ]

More From This Issue

Conversations, the sport of the '90s, legal tender, brm spyder upgrading the gsx-r1 100's flash factor, bmw k75rt making a virtue of adequacy, current subscribers can access the complete cycle world magazine archive register now, cycle world test.

Honda Cx500

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Does Honda ST1300 Have Cruise Control? (Aftermarket Options!)

Honda ST1300 didn’t come with a cruise control system. Aftermarket mechanical/electronic systems can be installed to enhance riding comfort.

Electronic cruise control systems cost more than the mechanical alternatives.

Table of Contents

Does the Honda ST1300 have cruise control?

No, the Honda ST1300 didn’t have cruise control. It was in production from 2002-2013 but no model had the cruise control feature.

Few riders have fitted cruise control to their motorcycles. Brands like BrakeAway, Rostra, and MCCruise produce cruise control systems for the ST1300.

Several companies make cruise control kits for the ST1300, including Sta-Tron, Cruise Control Store, and Twisted Throttle. The kits generally consist of a throttle actuator, control switch, and wiring harness.

Benefits of Cruise Control

Listed below are the advantages of having cruise control on a touring motorcycle.

• Electronic Cruise Control helps you relax the muscles and reduce fatigue.
• Wrist cramps are common during long rides, Cruise control helps prevent this.
• By using the cruise control you can avoid overspeeding.
• You won’t need to accelerate and decelerate unnecessarily and this increases the fuel efficiency.

How to install Cruise Control System on the ST1300

Installation requires removing bodywork like the fuel tank and side covers to access the throttle cables. The throttle actuator mounts near the throttle body and connects to the throttle cables.

The cruise control harness taps into various wires like the brake lights, clutch, and throttle position sensor. This allows the system to disengage the cruise when braking or clutching.

The control switch mounts to the handlebars and allows turning cruise on/off, resuming speed, and accelerating/decelerating. An indicator light on the dash shows when the cruise is activated.

Proper installation and adjustment are critical for smooth cruise control operation. The actuator needs to pull the throttle cables correctly to maintain speed without surging.

Aftermarket Cruise Control

Mechanical cruise control systems are affordable but aren’t as precise as the electronic alternatives. Electronic cruise control systems offer great cruise functions to the riders.

Mechanical Cruise Control for Honda ST1300

• Mechanical systems use a servo motor attached to the throttle grip to actuate the throttle instead of a cable-pulling actuator.
• The servo mounts under the right fairing and connects to the throttle tube with a linkage arm. This rotates the grip to maintain speed.
• An electronic control module mounts near the servo and connects to a handlebar-mounted switch. This activates/deactivates the servo.
• Sensors connect to the front brake line and clutch to disengage the servo when braking or clutching.
• Installation requires dismantling the right fairing, throttle housing, and throttle tube to install the servo and link arm.
• The system needs to be adjusted so the servo smoothly actuates the throttle without over-rotating. Throttle freeplay must be set correctly.
• Riders mention the mechanical systems have very smooth engagement and speed control compared to cable-pulling kits.
• Drawbacks include more complex installation and higher costs around $800-1000.
• Overall mechanical cruise provides excellent speed hold and control. But it requires expertise to install properly on the ST1300.
• The ‘BrakeAway’ or any other mechanical cruise control system is not a true automobile-type cruise control because it doesn’t maintain static speed regardless of grade.

Electronic Cruise Control for Honda ST1300

• Rostra is a major brand for aftermarket cruise control systems.
• It uses an electronic servo mounted under the left fairing to actuate the throttle grip instead of a cable-pulling actuator.
• The kit includes the servo, control module, wiring harnesses, switch assembly, and fasteners.
• Installation requires removing fairings and throttle housing to mount the servo and connect linkages.
• The control module mounts behind the left fairing and connects to the throttle position sensor.
• The handlebar switch allows turning the cruise on/off, resuming, accelerating, and coasting.
• Sensors connect to the front brake line and clutch to disengage the cruise when activated.
• Once installed, the servo motor electronically modulates the throttle position to maintain the set speed.
• Careful adjustment and calibration are required to ensure smooth engagement and speed control.
• Riders report excellent cruise function once tuned properly. The electronic servo offers very smooth control.
• Retail cost is around $800-900 for the complete kit and professional installation.

Safety Considerations:

• Don’t use cruise control on winding, wet, or slippery roads where maximum throttle control is needed. Use primarily on straight, dry highways.
• Disengage cruise when in traffic or other situations requiring speed adjustments.
• Make sure to test that the clutch and brakes properly disengage cruise control before riding. Don’t use if malfunctioning.
• Get used to engaging and disengaging the system smoothly to avoid sudden speed changes.
• Be aware the ST1300 has linked brakes, so the cruise won’t disengage if only using the rear brake.

Read our article on ST1300 brake specifications for more info on the braking efficiency of the motorcycle.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting:

• Check connections are tight and wiring is secure, damaged wires can cause issues.
• Inspect throttle cables and linkage for smooth operation. Lubricate cables periodically.
• Make sure no binding in the servo or throttle assembly, binding can lead to poor speed control.
• If speed surges, carefully re-adjust the actuator/servo and throttle cable tensions.
• If the cruise fails to hold speed, check for vacuum leaks, worn cables, or faulty components.
• If the cruise won’t disengage, check the brake light sensors and clutch switch function.
• Consult manufacturer and dealer for troubleshooting if issues persist.

Comparison with Other Models

From 2006 BMW gave an option of adding cruise control to their R1200RT.

2013 and the later models of the Yamaha FJR1300 have cruise control as a standard feature.

Honda ST1300 did not come equipped with cruise control from the factory.

However, several aftermarket cruise control systems are available from brands like Rostra, BrakeAway, and Sta-Tron.

These kits allow riders to add cruise control functionality to their ST1300 for long-distance touring comfort.

Proper installation and adjustment are critical for smooth and safe operation.

Riders should educate themselves on proper use and limitations before utilizing cruise control on their motorcycle.

These systems can greatly enhance the long-haul touring capability of the ST1300 when installed and used correctly.

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Honda ST1100

The Honda ST1100 , also known as the Pan-European , is a sport touring motorcycle that was manufactured by Honda until 2002.

• 2 Specifications
• 4 Recalls and Common Problems
• 6 References
• 7.1 Reviews

The ST1100 (ST from Sport Touring, 1100 from the engine capacity) began its production in 1990 and ended in 2002, although the police variant, the ST1100P, is still available as of 2007. [1] A revamped model, the ST1300 which is also called the Pan-European, was launched in 2002 worldwide and was available in the US in 2003.

Specifications

• Displacement: 1084 cc
• Type: liquid-cooled 90-degree V-4
• Bore and Stroke 73 mm x 64.8 mm
• Compression Ratio 10.0:1
• Valve Train: DOHC; four valves per cylinder
• Carburetion: Four 34.5 mm downdraft CV
• Ignition: Solid-state digital
• Power Output: ~100 hp (74.6 kw) @ 7,500 rpm
• Torque: 111 Nm (81.9 ft.lb) @ 6,000 rpm
• Transmission: 5-speed constant mesh
• Clutch: Hydraulicly actuated, multi-plate, wet clutch
• Final Drive: Enclosed drive shaft/hypoid gears
• Primary reduction 1.829
• Gear ratio, 1st 2.266
• Final reduction 2.833
• Overall length 2,285 mm (89.9 inch)
• Overall width 935 mm (36.8 inch)
• Overall height 1,405 mm (55.3 inch)
• Wheelbase 1,555 mm (61.2 inch)
• Ground clearance 145 mm (5.7 inch)
• Rake and Trail: 27.3ｰ, 4.0 inch
• Seat height: 31.5 inch
• Fuel capacity: 7.4 gallon (28 l)
• Dry/Wet Weight: 635 lb / 660 lb
• Front Tire: 120/802R-18; 110/80V-18
• Rear Tire: 160/70ZR-17; 160/70V-17

The ST1100 was optimized for long-distance touring with the following features:

• Low maintenance shaft drive
• A unique longitudinal V-4 engine layout
• Optional antilock brakes (ABS) and traction control system (TCS). 1996 and later Models equipped with ABS also have front-rear linked brakes (LBS). ABS model years from 1992 through 1995 have traditional separate front and rear braking systems.
• 7.4 US gallon (28 l) fuel tank, one of the largest ever supplied for a motorcycle, giving it a range in excess of 300 miles (480 km)
• 40 amp, air-cooled alternator to power multiple accessories such as auxiliary lighting and electrically heated clothing (Early models had a problematic 28 amp alternator which can be upgraded to the 40 amp version)

Recalls and Common Problems

Models manufactured from 1991 through 1995 were equipped with a 28 amp, oil-cooled alternator and a separate voltage regulator/rectifier. These earlier charging systems require more maintenance than the later versions in the form of making sure all connections are clean and tight. Even with proper maintenance, they are prone to failure given enough time and miles. If desired, the later model alternators can be used as an upgrade.

Models manufactured from 1992 to 1993 were issued a recall due to issues with the bank angle sensor which may have caused the engine to shut off unexpectedly. [2]

Corrosion on the swingarm, seizing brake calipers and poor paint quality are issues which affects the older bikes particularly. [3]

• Honda ST series
• ↑ "The Honda ST1100P Police Motorcycle" . America Honda . http://powersports.honda.com/police_cruiser/ST1100P.asp . Retrieved on 2007-07-16 .  
• ↑ "Recall details - Unexpected shut down of engine" . Vehicle & Operator Services Agency recall website . 19 July 1995 . http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/searches/expand.asp?uniqueID=52D342DD4E85B96880256BB900269161 . Retrieved on 2007-10-08 .  
• ↑ "Honda ST1100 Pan European (1989-2004) - Motorcycle Review (MCN)" . Motorcycle News website . http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=5&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motorcyclenews.com%2FMCN%2Fbikereviews%2Fsearchresults%2FBike-Reviews%2FHonda%2FHonda-ST1100-1989-2004%2F%3F%26R%3DEPI-320&ei=yYgKR5eONYakwgG8j6XzCA&usg=AFQjCNFKCuhJ4auTZKbHv9bXAlJIOD42Rg&sig2=VCU9kJOGfvlFXCJeB5nEsg . Retrieved on 2007-10-08 .  

External links

• Honda at the Open Directory Project
• Manual, part numbers, guides, links, ...
• Adding aftermarket cruise control to the ST1100
• Mike Martin's ST Page
• 1998 Sport Tourers 1998 shootout, Motorcycle Online
• Lightweight Tourers Comparison / Smiles Through the Miles 1996 shootout, Motorcycle Online
• ST1100 vs Concours
• ST1100 vs Concours vs R1100RT
• Honda motorcycles

Navigation menu

Cruise Control

No, this has nothing to do with keeping that actor in a good mood. A cruise control is one item which I have not yet fitted to the ST1100, primarily because my commuting days are now over. When I was commuting, even though my journey was under an hour and a half, I did find that my right wrist got a bit cramped. Apart from alleviating this strain, a properly fitted cruise control can save fuel, and also help you to stick to the speed limit.

There are several possible solutions for this problem depending on how much money you want to spend. The simplest of these (although this is really more of a wrist rest) is the throttle rocker which simply attaches to your right-hand grip and provides a rest platform for your wrist. Another solution is a throttle lock like the Atlas Throttle Lock which fits between the grip flange and the throttle housing. It has two buttons; one to engage the unit and another to disengage it. It operates through friction and pressure, but still allows you full throttle control if necessary. Audiovox used to do a cruise control kit; the CCS100. Unfortunately the factory that manufactured them went out of business, so they are no longer in production and parts are no longer available. You may still be able to pick up one of these kits, but it's worth noting that it was actually designed for cars, not motorcycles, and if the installation is not done properly, it can be life-threatening. If you do find one, details on how to install it can be found on the web - an example installation on the FJR1300 being found here.

The system which caught my eye though is a kit from www.mccruise.com . Even though it seems somewhat expensive...

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Kaoko Cruise Control Throttle Lock Stabiliser for Honda ST1100 1990 - 2002

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Collection available Monday to Friday only during location opening hours. Clevedon 9am-6pm. Please wait for a 'pick up is ready' email before arriving at store.

KAOKO - Simple and Intuitive Throttle Stabiliser

To fit: Honda ST1100 1990 - 2002 A throttle stabilizer is a throttle controlling mechanism that enables the rider to secure their throttle to a desired opening or setting. Main features: Greatly reduces rider fatigue and strain on hand and wrist. Whilst cruising, rider is able to remove hand from throttle grip, throttle opening will remain as set. Very simple to operate, even with heavy winter gloves. High quality, compact and durable design, super smooth action. Less wear and tear on throttle cables and linkages. Can result in reduced fuel consumption. Very little maintenance is required. Takes less than 5 minutes to fit.

Simple Operation: To Engage - Whilst rolling on the throttle, the friction nut can be gripped between your small finger and palm of your hand. This action tightens the nut and provides sufficient friction to set throttle to the desired opening. (The friction is such that the rider may still open and close the throttle. It simply has a slight rotational resistance to it.)

To Disengage - Whilst rolling off the throttle, grip the friction nut between your small finger and palm of your hand. The throttle should open and snap closed freely when correctly disengaged.

Disclaimer - It is advised that the use of the Kaoko Throttle Stabilizer / Cruise Control is at the sole risk of the rider and by his/her decision to use it he/she does indemnify the manufacturers or organisers, their agents, employees and officers against any claim (including consequential loss) or action by them, their dependants or any other third party arising out of any loss, damage, injury or death suffered. Fitting should only be performed by a competent motorcycle mechanic and with full sight and comprehension of the enclosed fitting instructions.

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Shooter Files by f.d. walker

Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

• Patriarch’s Pond
• Old Arbat Street
• Maroseyka Street
• Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography. 

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita. 

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

• Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
• Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
• Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
• Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
• After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
• To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

• Novoslobodskaya
• Mayakovskaya
• Elektrozavodskaya
• Komsomolskaya
• Ploschad Revolyutsii
• Dostoyevskaya
• Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem. 

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions. 

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev  and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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Moscow (Russia)

Cruise port schedule, live map, terminals, news.

Region Russia Rivers

Local Time 2024-04-29 13:36

Moscow is a Volga River cruise port, Russia's capital and largest city (population over 12,2 million, metro 17 million). Moscow City covers a total area of approx 2610 km 2 (970 mi2). By population, the city is ranked the world's 14th largest. Moscow is one of the Russian Federation's all 3 federal cities - together with St Petersburg and Sevastopol .

Being Russian Federation's capital, Moscow is a major economic, political, scientific and cultural center, as well as Europe's biggest city.

According to Forbes 2013, Moscow has been ranked as the 9th most expensive city in the world by Mercer and has one of the largest urban economies, being ranked as an alpha global city according to Globalization and World Cities Research Network. It is also one of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in the world according to MasterCard Global Destination Cities Index. Moscow is the northernmost and the coldest megacity and metropolis on the Earth. It's home to Ostankino Tower, the tallest free-standing European structure; the Federation Tower, the tallest European skyscraper; and the Moscow International Business Center. 

Moscow is situated on Moskva River in the Central Federal District of European Russia, which makes it the most populated inland city in the world. Moscow city is well known for architecture, particularly its historic buildings like Saint Basil's Cathedral. With over 40% of its territory covered by greenery, it's one of the greenest capitals and major cities in Europe and the world. Moscow is the seat of power of the Russian Government, being the site of Moscow Kremlin, a medieval city-fortress that is now the residence of the President of Russia. Moscow Kremlin and Red Square are among the several World Heritage Sites in the city. 

Moscow has 2 passenger terminals, North River Terminal (Rechnoy vokzal) and South River Terminal. The regular ship routes and cruises along Moskva and Oka rivers are used mostly for entertainment. North River Terminal (1937-built) is currently the main hub for long-range routes along the river. There are 3 freight ports that serve Moscow.

In late-July 2021 the city announced plans to incorporate a fleet (unspecified number) of fully electric passenger ferries into its public transportation network from summer 2022, the goal being to reduce the dependence on cars.

• The boats are designed with length ~22 m (72 ft), passenger capacity 42, modern amenities (Wi-Fi, USB charging points, tables for working commuters), spaces for storing scooters and bicycles.
• Moscow Transport confirmed that two routes (with max daily capacity ~16,000 passengers) have already been mapped out.
• Passengers will be able to pay via bank cards, the city’s Troika card (smart card for travel by any public transportation) or biometric payment cards. Those with monthly/yearly public transit tickets will use the boats at no extra cost.
• The new electric ferry service is up to 5 times faster (in comparison to other city public transports) and ~2 times faster than by car.

Moscow cruise terminal

Moscow's cruise terminal is called North River Terminal or River Station  ("Rechnoy Vokzal" / "речной вокзал").

The terminal was opened in 1937 and is one of 2 passenger terminals (the other being South River Terminal) of the city's river transport. North River Terminal is the main hub for long-range (including cruise) shipping routes. 

South River Terminal (above photo) was opened in 1985.

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Moscow - user reviews and comments

• Unanswered threads
• ST1100 Articles

Article [11]   ST1100 - Basics / Buying Guide

• Thread starter paulcb
• Start date Jun 5, 2020
• Tags 1100 reference

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26

• non-ABS with 2-pot brake calipers, 41mm forks
• ABSI with traction control and 2-pot brake calipers, 41mm forks
• Keyed accessory circuit on the right side of the battery in a silicone sleeve.
• non-ABS: 2-pot brake calipers, 41mm forks
• ABSII dash is a little different... the blinkers are not in the upper light cluster, they are to the left and right of the speedo and tach
• ABSII models have two push buttons below the left cowl pocket. They 1) turn off the ABS light (blinks when an ABS malfunction is detected) and 2) turn off traction control.
• 7.4 gallon (28 liter) fuel tank, 87 octane fuel
• all non-ABS (1990-2003) and ABSI (1990-1995): 110/80-18
• ABSII (1996-2003): 120/70-18
• Rear Tire: 160/70-17
• Timing belt, as opposed to a timing chain. 90k mile Honda recommended belt replacement interval
• Colors: colors and color codes and be found here .
• https://bikeswiki.com/Honda_ST1100_Pan-European
• https://www.honda-wiki.org/wiki/Honda_ST1100
• https://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_ST1100
• https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/honda/st1100-pan-european/1989/
• https://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/lightweight-tourers-comparison-1715.html
• https://www.st-1100.com
• http://www.st-riders.net/index.php
• Swing arm rust in salty environments
• Final drive splines wear if not lubed/maintained properly
• 28A alternator (1990-1995) leaks oil and/or quits charging. Take this into account if you're planning to purchase a 1995 or older ST1100 .
• The hose going from the thermostat housing to the overflow tank splits where it makes a sharp turn ~1" from the housing. This causes a leak of coolant and potential overheating.
• A few have had electrical issues, see Red Wire Bypass , Ignition Relay Bypass and Headlight Ground Circuit
• A very small few (including me) have had the tail frame crack. See this thread .
• It's possible to upgrade the 28A alternator to the 40A, but parts, i.e. the base, are very hard to find. Take this into account if you're planning to purchase a 1995 or older ST1100 .
• As of Feb 2021, there is kit to upgrade the oil-cooled 28A to an air-cooled 40A that includes the base, shaft, bearings and hardware. See this thread , or search eBay for "Honda ST1100 40 amp upgrade" .
• 1996 and up had a 40A air cooled alternator, resulting in no oil cooler and a different water pump.
• Valves: valve clearance should be checked, but generally don't need adjustment after the first time. They are relatively easy to check and adjust . There's a loaner kit available to aid in this.
• The ABSII 3-pot linked braking system has much better braking power than any of the the 2-pot systems.
• Linked brakes are complex, have many hoses and are a little tricky to bleed, but they perform well and are very reliable as long as the hydraulic system is flushed and bled correctly and regularly.
• The front master cylinder activates the two outer pistons on the front calipers.
• The rear master cylinder activates the center piston on the front and rear calipers.
• There is a Secondary Master Cylinder (SMC) on the front wheel. This is activated when the front brakes are applied, rotating the caliper assembly and thus activating the SMC. When the SMC is activated, the two outer pistons of the rear caliper are activated.
• This is the linked braking system for the ST1300, but it is very similar to the ST1100 ABSII system
• It's normal for the clutch not to engage until the end of the lever release action, i.e. the last 25% or so.
• Clutch (plates) will last a long time, maybe 200k miles or more depending on use. The clutch hydraulic system should be flushed and bled regularly though.
• There is a bronze bushing in the clutch lever that wears. Should inspect and replace as necessary, maybe every few years depending on use.
• Timing Belt: There are no known timing belt failures due to age, most old ones come out looking/feeling new. Some have gone nearly 200k miles. Some have failed as a result of water pump and/or idler bearing failures.
• There are a few high mileage tires that fit the stock ST1100 rear wheel, i.e. a 160/70-17 Michelin Commander II/III
• There are some 'rear' tires that fit on the front wheel of the ST1100 for high mileage, i.e. a rear 110/80-18 Bridgestone BT45/46.
• Running a car tire on the rear requires an older Goldwing rear wheel and custom spacer. Therefore, it's not easy to go dark on an ST1100 compared to an FJR or ST13 where the stock rear wheel readily accepts a car tire.
• Michael (CYYJ) has a good article regarding the o-rings here .
• Many owners bypass this valve to eliminate the risk of failure. It's done by removing the valve, re-plumbing the fuel line and capping the vacuum line it was connected to.
• Carburetor: there are four of them and they're pretty difficult to remove and re-install. They come out as a single unit. The rubber boots may need to be replaced as they get hard and brittle, along with the hoses and aluminum elbows/o-rings underneath the carbs. The carbs should be vacuum balanced when reinstalled.
• Most OEM parts are generally still available new. OEM body panels (tupperware) aren't available from Honda anymore.
• Gas Mileage: I've seen as low as 25 MPG with a strong headwind running at 80 mph and as high as 50 mpg. My average is 40-45 mpg combined city/highway.
• Headlight: The ST1100 has two headlight bulbs. Most models have both on for low and high beam. Some European models have only one bulb on for low. See post #59 for more detail.
• Fuel gauge: at 1/2 tank, you've used about 4 gallons. When the light comes on, you've used about 6 gallons, with 1.4 left.
• Temperature Gauge: Normally runs around the 1/4 point in clean air at speed, will hit 1/2 way (12 o'clock) in stop/go traffic and the fan comes on just past the 1/2 way point. When idling and stopped, i.e. sitting in the garage, the fan should switch on/off every minute or two and temp shouldn't get more than 5/8 or so.
• Most feel the OEM (or equivalent) maintenance parts are more than adequate, i.e. brake pads and filters.
• Many owners use iridium spark plugs for their longevity. NGK CR8EHIX-9 are popular.
• There's no significant performance gain with aftermarket air filters and/or exhaust. Some like aftermarket exhaust for their looks and sound.
• Suspension upgrades are generally perceived as a significant performance gain.
• Note that both headlight bulbs are on for high and low beams
• Here is a list of all the LED bulbs you'll need to convert everything over to LED.
• Bar risers, windscreen and seat are the most popular and necessary comfort farkles.
• GPS, TPMS, LED spots, voltmeter, throttle lock/cruise control
• History and maintenance records. This is a good read on things to inspect. Many thanks to Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, SupraSabre, and Igofar for writing this.
• Condition and age of tires. Look at the date code
• Check VIN on bike and title to make sure they match. VIN is on steering stem.
• The brakes should firm up pretty well at about 1/2 lever travel.
• The clutch lever should provide resistance the whole travel. See note on clutch above.
• The rear wheel can be removed in less than 10 minutes while on the center stand, with only the panniers and rear mud guard removed. You'll need to swing up the caliper as well.
• Check the engine oil level (on centerstand) in the sight glass on the lower right side... there's a hole in the tupperware to see it, but will need a flashlight.
• Sit on it and bounce the rear up/down. It should settle in a couple bounces and not pogo. ST1100 rear shocks generally wear out in 50k-75k miles.
• Start it stone cold with the choke fully on. Should start right up and idle 2000-2500 RPMs. Adjust the choke and it should start to idle down.
• Once warm, go for a test ride, using the brakes pretty hard. After this, the bike should still roll easily in neutral, i.e. it should free roll backward on just a very slight incline. If it doesn't, suspect brake drag.
• After riding, let it sit and idle for a few minutes, should be ~1100 RPMs. The fan should come on at just over midpoint on the temp gauge. See temp gauge note above.
• On the centerstand, the rear wheel should rotate at least 1 turn freely when turned by hand.
• If ABSII (which has the SMC): On the centerstand, rotate the rear wheel and activate the SMC by hand (push up on the SMC) . The rear wheel should stop immediately and then rotate freely when the SMC is released. Rotating freely after release indicates that the SMC is not sticking.

Attachments

• ST1000 Owners Manual.pdf 2.7 MB Views: 189
• ST1100 ABSII Manual.pdf 3.1 MB Views: 107

Good work Paul, it would certainly be a great thread for new owners to visit. Upt'North.  

Well done Paul, I wish this was available before I bought mine, if just for peace of mind.  

You might add the tire dimensions of the '96 onward ABS-II/CBS front tire there... Also that many never have seen a change of fork oil, hence bushings are done, often the tubes too... Same for carb boots, decades old, hardened, cracking, carb bank a bear to remove... Valve cover gaskets + grommets... Cooling lines, fittings, thermostat, fanstat, radiator cap... Condition of tank, rust inside, sometimes rusting bottom outside underneath the butyl mat... hence fuel sender, pump... Clutch & brake masters, rubber boots, levers, brass bushing, push-rods... An optical indicator for high mileage are worn down peg rubbers and worn clutch/brake levers...  

As noted, add the dimensions for the ABSII front tire. Also you might note that Mother Honda does not make the bodywork any more AFAIK.  

Your post and this thread will be a big help to those looking for a ST1100! Nicely done.  

paulcb said: Years Available: Europe: 1989-2002, USA: 1990-2002, police versions available through 2003. Click to expand...

ST1100Y said: You might add the tire dimensions of the '96 onward ABS-II/CBS front tire there... Also that many never have seen a change of fork oil, hence bushings are done, often the tubes too... Same for carb boots, decades old, hardened, cracking, carb bank a bear to remove... Valve cover gaskets + grommets... Cooling lines, fittings, thermostat, fanstat, radiator cap... Condition of tank, rust inside, sometimes rusting bottom outside underneath the butyl mat... hence fuel sender, pump... Clutch & brake masters, rubber boots, levers, brass bushing, push-rods... An optical indicator for high mileage are worn down peg rubbers and worn clutch/brake levers... Click to expand...

Larry Fine said: I've always been under the impression that it was: Europe: 1990-2001, USA: 1991-2002 Click to expand...

Will ride for Pie

How about the one and only recall, the 91 tip over sensor would cut out the ignition in a corner unexpectedly.  

Nice summary Paul.  

Thanks again for the input. There are several personal ST1100 websites out there with really good info. If you would like yours linked here, let me know and I'll add it.  

Nicely done Paul! Some of us are metric 28L fuel tank approx 500km range per tank (300 miles) 5.2L/100kms cheers  

I believe it was officially imported to the UK from 1990 to 2001 by Honda UK, but there are many 2002 registered bikes here. Upt'North.  

paulcb said: Regarding the rest, seems those are everyday motorcycle issues, not specific to the ST11? Click to expand...

ChriSTian_64

Well done, Paul. Good idea.  

I've added a section to the end... Things to look at when buying: Please review and add what I'm missing. Thanks!  

Great idea! Your post should be and article.  

John OoSTerhuis

Life is good.

paulcb said: Pull the rear wheel and inspect splines. They shouldn't be worn Click to expand...

John OoSTerhuis said: Minor point, but the guy in the video didn’t follow the procedure in the Owner’s and Service manuals to pry the wheel off with a pliers on the driven flange. He got lucky the flange stayed with the wheel. John Click to expand...

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