journey to italy

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Journey To Italy (1954)

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Voyage to Italy

1953, Romance/Drama, 1h 40m

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Sharing a passionless existence together, Alexander (George Sanders) and Katherine Joyce (Ingrid Bergman), a married English couple, travel to Naples after inheriting a villa. On the verge of divorce, with neither one's disposition warming to the other, they decide to spend the rest of the trip separately. Katherine visits museums and historical sites, whereas Alexander goes to Capri to unwind with drinks. However, during the course of their vacation, the Joyces both undergo changes.

Genre: Romance, Drama

Original Language: Italian

Director: Roberto Rossellini

Producer: Adolfo Fossataro , Alfredo Guarini , Roberto Rossellini

Writer: Vitaliano Brancati , Roberto Rossellini

Release Date (Theaters): Sep 1, 1955  original

Release Date (Streaming): Mar 11, 2017

Runtime: 1h 40m

Distributor: Fine Arts Film Inc.

Production Co: SCG, Juno-Speva Film, Francinex, Italia Film, Sveva-Junior, Les Films Ariane, S.E.C.

Cast & Crew

Ingrid Bergman

Katherine Joyce

George Sanders

Alexander "Alex" Joyce

Anthony La Penna

Tony Burton

Maria Mauban

Anna Proclemer

La prostituta

Paul Muller

Paul Dupont

Natalia Ray

Natalie Burton

Jackie Frost

Roberto Rossellini

Vitaliano Brancati

Screenwriter

Adolfo Fossataro

Alfredo Guarini

Enzo Serafin

Cinematographer

Jolanda Benvenuti

Film Editing

Piero Filippone

Production Design

Fernanda Gattinoni

Costume Design

Critic Reviews for Voyage to Italy

Audience reviews for voyage to italy.

Ponderous direction doesn't help but the two leads are so talented that they make this pedestrian drama worth watching.

"Voyage to Italy" starts with Alex(George Sanders) and Katherine(Ingrid Bergman), a wealthy couple, traveling from England to Naples to see Burton(Leslie Daniels) about settling a family estate there. That's only the beginning of the journey, at least emotionally, as she thinks he could use the trip as a break from work but he only intends to stay as long as necessary to complete the deal. For the record, they seem like one of those mismatched couples who got married only after seeing there was nobody else left and said why not. But as radiant as the human actors are in the movie, they are not the stars of it. That comes down to the local scenery and history of Naples, where despite all the death, both ancient and recent, the locals live their lives to the fullest which Alex and Katherine have trouble adjusting to, and not just because they drive a car with a steering wheel on the wrong side of the car. And that's pretty much it for any kind of story here which is unsentimental to a fault, at least until the movie's forced ending.

An intimate and involving drama about an unhappy couple facing the collapse of their marriage while on a trip that only exposes their mutual discontent. It feels sad and real, but it is a pity that the story ends in such an easy and artificial way.

Innovative narrative structure. Italy itself is a predominant character in this subtle film. A precursor to Antonioni's alienation trilogy.

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Journey to Italy

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Brief Synopsis

Cast & crew, roberto rossellini, ingrid bergman, george sanders, maria mauban, jolanda benvenuti, vitaliano brancati, photos & videos, technical specs.

A married couple seek insight and direction within their relationship in Italy.

Adolfo Fossataro

Alfred guarini, enzo serafin.

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Journey to Italy

• Blu-ray edition reviewed by Chris Galloway
• October 29 2013

See more details, packaging, or compare

Among the most influential films of the postwar era, Roberto Rossellini’s Journey to Italy ( Viaggio in Italia ) charts the declining marriage of a couple from England (Ingrid Bergman and George Sanders) on a trip in the countryside near Naples. More than just the anatomy of a relationship, Rossellini’s masterpiece is a heartrending work of emotion and spirituality. Considered a predecessor to the existentialist works of Michelangelo Antonioni and hailed as a groundbreaking modernist work by the legendary film journal Cahiers du cinéma , Journey to Italy is a breathtaking cinematic benchmark.

Picture 9/10

Extras 9/10

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Journey to Italy – review

A lmost universally ridiculed when it first appeared in 1953, acclaimed as masterwork a few years later by the Cahiers du cinéma critics who became the French New Wave, Journey to Italy is Rossellini's bitterly acute account of the death throes of bourgeois marriage in general and his own marriage to Ingrid Bergman in particular. It takes the form of a well-heeled British couple (Bergman and George Sanders) driving aimlessly around Naples and environs on a visit to Italy to sell an inherited villa. The sequence in Pompeii is especially telling. The film can now be seen as a milestone: it marks the point where neo-realism has been decisively rejected and anticipates the modernism of Antonioni's L'Avventura .

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Journey to italy.

1954 ‘Viaggio in Italia’ Directed by Roberto Rossellini

This deceptively simple tale of a bored English couple travelling to Italy to find a buyer for a house inherited from an uncle is transformed by Roberto Rossellini into a passionate story of cruelty and cynicism as their marriage disintegrates around them.

Ingrid Bergman George Sanders Jackie Frost Maria Mauban Anna Proclemer Leslie Daniels Natalia Ray Paul Müller Bianca Maria Cerasoli Adriana Danieli María Martín Lyla Rocco

Director Director

Roberto Rossellini

Producers Producers

Alfredo Guarini Adolfo Fossataro Roberto Rossellini

Writers Writers

Vitaliano Brancati Roberto Rossellini

Original Writer Original Writer

Editor editor.

Jolanda Benvenuti

Cinematography Cinematography

Enzo Serafin

Assistant Directors Asst. Directors

Marcello Caracciolo Di Laurino Vladimiro Cecchi

Camera Operator Camera Operator

Aldo Scavarda

Production Design Production Design

Piero Filippone

Composer Composer

Renzo Rossellini

Sound Sound

Eraldo Giordani

Costume Design Costume Design

Fernanda Gattinoni

Sveva Film Junior Film Italia Produzione Film Société Générale de Cinématographie (S.G.C.)

Italy France

Primary Language

Spoken languages.

English Italian

Releases by Date

07 sep 1954, 09 nov 1954, 20 dec 1954, 01 jan 1955, 28 oct 1955, 01 nov 1957, 21 dec 2012, 30 jun 2021, 12 feb 2021, releases by country.

• Theatrical e 12
• Theatrical TP Visa CNC 15916
• Physical DVD
• Theatrical Reprise
• Theatrical M/12
• Theatrical (Rated A)
• Theatrical PG (BFI Films re-release)

85 mins   More at IMDb TMDb Report this page

Popular reviews

Review by ele ★★★

i really relate to ingrid bergman’s character in this movie because she’s constantly grumbling to herself about how she hates all men except this one dead poet she used to know.

Review by cassandra ★★★½ 10

This review may contain spoilers. I can handle the truth.

Didn't realize how cynical I was until a happy ending made me angry.

Review by Nicolás Vargas ★★★★ 2

Imagine taking Ingrid Bergman to Italy just to treat her like shit.

Review by Sean Gilman ★★★★★ 14

I guess we're calling this "Journey to Italy" now? I always preferred "Voyage in Italy". It's not about their travel to Italy, but rather the travels, physical, emotional, spiritual, etc, they make while already in Italy. Weird that we haven't been able to come to a consensus on the title of what is obviously one of the best movies.

Review by SilentDawn ★★★★★ 2

Journey to Italy is relatively simple, but the implications are cosmic. A disruption in geography causes a waning relationship to fully dismantle and then reassemble within the context of a shifting understanding of themselves as human beings. All it showcases is a couple on the rocks only to realize they are everything to each other, as much as they hate that idea. But Roberto Rossellini doesn't merely provide an existential core to the proceedings, but a metaphysical one as well. This is a film not just about what happens to us, the reality of life and death and love, but what we should contemplate or yearn to understand while we're here. Journey to Italy , above all else, seeks to…

Review by Neil Bahadur ★★★★★ 1

Viaggio, Voyage, Journey - before the history films, travelogue is the key to Rossellini's cinema: Paisan, Stromboli, India, Viva Italia. In the first and last of these we get literal maps charting our progression from one story/location to another, and all films here mentioned here minus Stromboli are these progressions from South to North. This movie is no exception either. We have no maps in this film, and no wonder! The Joyces are very lost, trying to find hope in a place they don't understand, trapped in the prisms of their own beliefs - not till the end do both discover that the travelogue isn't physical, it is in their own hearts - their emotions must travel from south to…

Review by Cahiers Du Cinéma

Eric Rohmer: 'The Land of Miracles'

('La Terre du Miracle', Cahiers du Cinema 47, May 1955, written under his real name, Maurice Scherer)

The term 'neo-realism' has become so debased that I would hesitate to use it in relation to Viaggio in Italia if Rossellini hadn't in fact claimed it himself. He sees this film as embodying a 'neo-realism' that is purer and deeper than in any of his earlier films. At least that was his comment to one member of the audience at the Paris premiere. One can certainly talk about evolution in the work of the author of Rome, Open City. If it is true that the more recent films can only at a pinch be categorized along…

Review by Janica ★★★ 2

Again, not what I expected. Not being familiar with Rossellini, I keep forgetting his seeming preference for simplicity and honesty of scenario and of shooting, and for a shagginess and a monumentality in construction. I was caught up in the film but had some trouble seeing What The Big Deal Was , until it dawned on me that Rossellini was using the exterior world as an extension of the interior landscape of his characters, in a way that directly prefigures the work of Antonioni.

I don’t know if I buy the miracle at the end; it came and went so quickly that it caught me off guard. Even as I knew I was seeing Ingrid Bergman wrestling with reappraising her life…

Review by Carlos Valladares ★★★★★ 4

It's movies like Roberto Rossellini's Voyage in Italy that make me grateful to be alive—here, now, in this moment, communicating with you.

It's movies like Voyage in Italy that give me the crucial insight into the world I previously did not possess, but which I now realize I had the capability of possessing all along.

It's movies like Voyage in Italy that leave me staring in wide-eyed wonder at the power of the cinematic-photographic image to transcend space-time and reach me in the heart, where it counts.

It's movies like Voyage in Italy that understand the true essence of film: as a paradoxical medium of life and death, chronicling existence in the past, mummifying faces in the present, foretelling death…

Review by Zegan ★★★★ 2

Even the natural beauty of Italy is nothing compared to the natural beauty of Ingrid Bergman

Review by Evan T ★★★★

If anything deserves a 2K restoration as stunning as this, it’s the spellbinding face of Ingrid Bergman. After seeing only a handful of her performances, I’m convinced there’s never been a reactionary actor like her. She’s so convincing you can almost hear the thoughts rattling around in her head, committed physical performance and rapturous eyes telling half the story before she’s even opened her mouth. George Sanders bats back superbly, depicting a tangible jealousy that’s coated in a covert disguise of romantic indifference. Some scenes could linger in the thematic weight a while longer, the limitations of the era clearly visible through sketchy edits and one too many conversations cut short, but I wasn’t expecting the existential angst Rossellini packs into this. I intentionally picked this over an Ingmar Bergman film to avoid morbidity tonight, so don’t make the same mistake I did, but know that if you do, it’ll probably be one of the best mistakes of your life.

Review by Sally Jane Black

Part travelogue, part romance, it seems, this film captures two ideas that appeal to me: the emotional impact of setting and the manner in which love is born in adversity. The former is repeatedly on display from the rolling Italian countryside to the forays Ingrid Bergman's character makes through the ruins and museums to the famous excavation scene. While I found it occasionally overlong in depicting her jaunts through Vesuvius's shadow, the museum sequence stood out as especially powerful, and the excavation scene earned its reputation.

The latter is mostly on display in the final moments of the film. As the crowd sweeps her away and she calls for her soon-to-be-ex-husband, the repressed love she feels for him becomes undeniable,…

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Journey to Italy

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Ingrid Bergman

George Sanders

Tony La Penna

Maria Mauban

Anna Proclemer

• Average 8.6

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Journey to Italy (1954)

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Italy: a first-timer’s guide

Feb 28, 2024 • 8 min read

One of the best things to do in Italy? Spend time on the water (coast, lake or canal) © Catherine Falls Commercial / Getty Images

With its iconic monuments, timeless landscapes and irresistible food,  Italy is one of Europe’s most alluring destinations. Its historic cities promise thrilling art and architecture at every turn while its varied coastlines and Alpine heights provide a stunning outdoor playground.

In fact, the country is so packed with possibilities that it can seem almost overwhelming. Where should I go? How do I get there? How much will it cost? This planning guide tackles these questions and provides clear practical advice on how to get the most out of your first Italian trip.

When should I go to Italy?

The short answer is anytime. Spring and fall are best for sightseeing , touring and seasonal food. It’s warm without being stifling and nature is in full color. But with the glorious blue-sky weather come crowds and high-season prices in the main cities.

Summer sees cities empty as holidaymakers head to the coast. Prices skyrocket in popular areas, peaking in mid-August when beaches are packed and resorts full. Meanwhile, the festival season swings into gear with high-profile events such as Il Palio di Siena, featuring a wild bareback horse race around Siena 's Piazza del Campo , and Spoleto’s Festival dei Due Mondi , with musicians, artists and actors performing to passionate throngs.

Winter is generally quiet – except in ski resorts – and it can be wet and cold. But low season rates and empty museums make it a decent option for a city break.

How much time do I need to visit Italy?

Realistically, you’ll need at least two or three days in top cities such as Rome , Florence and Venice . That won’t give you enough time to cover everything, but it will allow you to get a feel for the place and explore some of the headline attractions.

If you’re happy to move fast, you could cover Italy’s highlights on a whistle-stop 10-day tour. That would give you a couple of days each in Venice and Florence, a day in Bologna , Pisa and Naples , and three days in Rome. Alternatively, you could focus on a particular area. For example, with a week you could explore southern Tuscany and parts of neighboring Umbria , or cut a swathe through Sicily’s baroque southeast .

Is it easy to get in and around Italy?

Italy is well served by air with flights from across the world. Major airports include Rome Fiumicino (officially Leonardo da Vinci) and Milan Malpensa , the two main intercontinental gateways, Venice Marco Polo , Pisa International (for Florence and Tuscany), Naples International  and Catania (Sicily’s busiest airport). There are also excellent rail and bus links, especially to northern Italy, and ferries to Italian ports from across the Mediterranean.

Once in Italy, you've got transport options . Trains are best between major cities and along the coasts, while buses are better for the mountains and hilly inland areas. For more remote parts you’ll really need your own wheels. Most major cities have decent public transport, though you can often cover their historic centers on foot.

Top things to do in Italy

Tour rome’s greatest hits.

First port of call for many travelers is Rome, Italy’s charismatic capital. You’ll never be able to cover all of its monuments and masterpieces, but there are some you won’t want to miss. The Colosseum and Pantheon are obvious highlights, along with the Roman Forum and Palatino . Then there’s the Vatican where you’ll find St Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel (in the Vatican Museums ). And, of course, you’ll want to toss a coin into the Trevi Fountain to ensure you return to the Eternal City.

For a taste of authentic Roman cuisine, try a slice of pizza from Forno Roscioli or a pasta carbonara at Flavio al Velavevodetto in the Testaccio neighborhood.

Marvel at masterpieces in Florence

One and a half hours north of Rome by train, Florence is the second of Italy’s ‘big three’ (Venice completes the trio). Visitors have been rhapsodizing about the city for centuries and still today it thrills with its Renaissance palazzi (palaces), frescoed churches and artworks such as Michelangelo's David at the Galleria dell'Accademia , Botticelli’s Birth of Venus at the Galleria degli Uffizi , and Brunelleschi’s red dome atop the landmark Duomo . Art apart, there are markets and boutiques to explore and Negroni cocktails to be sampled, including at the historic Caffè Rivoire .

With more time, you could add a day-trip to Siena or a tour of the Chianti wine country .

Get lost in Venice’s backstreets

As soon as you set foot in Venice you know it’s special. And confusing. To get your bearings take vaporetto (water bus) No 1 along the Grand Canal to Piazza San Marco where you’ll find several landmark sights. Chief among these are the Basilica di San Marco and the Gothic Palazzo Ducale , former residence of the ruling Doge. Elsewhere, you can catch modern art at the world-class Peggy Guggenheim Collection and browse colorful produce at the centuries-old Rialto Market .

To fuel your wanderings, Venice is famous for its cicchetti (bar snacks). A top spot for these is the canal-side Bracaro ae Bricoe bar in the Cannaregio sestiere (neighborhood).

Feast on pizza, art and street life in Naples

With Mt Vesuvius brooding on the horizon, Naples is sprawling, loud, sometimes edgy and often magnificent. Its Dickensian backstreets are a joy to explore and its regal palaces showcase world-class collections of Greco-Roman antiquities and baroque art – check out the Museo Nazionale Archeologico and Cappella Sansevero for a glimpse. Then, of course, there’s the city’s revered pizza, served at historic pizzerias such as Da Michele .

Beyond the city, Pompeii is an easy day trip and the Amalfi Coast is within striking distance via the sunny resort town of Sorrento .

Cruise the Italian Lakes

Ringed by brooding Alpine summits and steep wooded slopes, the Italian Lakes have been a popular holiday spot since ancient times. At Lake Maggiore , you can explore the Isole Borromee with their ornate palaces and lavish gardens, while further east you can go celeb-spotting on Lake Como , cruising around its exquisite villas and villages.

To reach the lakes you’ll often have to pass through Milan , Italy’s northern powerhouse. A day here would be enough to take in some of its signature sights: Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper , the fairy-tale Duomo , the Quadrilatero d’Oro shopping district.

My favorite thing to do in Italy

Italy’s obvious beauty and blockbuster sights abound, but what I love are its simple pleasures: a leisurely lunch in a favorite trattoria, the sight of pine trees towering over Roman ruins, a glass of prosecco on a Venetian canal-side.

I also love wandering around Rome and seeing how its life plays out against a backdrop of ancient monuments and historic palazzi . There’s always something going on and even without trying I usually come across something special, an amazing baroque fountain or a teeming market in a medieval square. The city’s streets really are an experience in themselves. I mean where else can you wait for a tram just yards from where Julius Caesar was stabbed?

How much money do I need for Italy?

Italy isn’t cheap. Accommodation rates vary enormously between places and seasons but prices are universally high in popular destinations. That said, you can still find deals if you book early and avoid peak periods. Sightseeing can also add up with top sites charging top dollar. On the plus side, eating out doesn’t have to cost the earth, especially if you stick to pizza and gelato.

Some average daily costs:

• Double room in an agriturismo (farm stay) €40-80
• B&B room €60-140
• Coffee (standing at a bar) €1.10
• Midrange meal €25-35
• Glass of wine €5-8
• Museum admission €10-20
• Public transport ticket (Rome) €1.50 for 100 minutes unlimited travel (but only one metro ride)
• High-speed train ticket Rome to Florence €55

Frequently asked questions

This is italy, so do i have to dress up all the time.

In a word, no. When sightseeing go for comfort, especially when it comes to shoes – you’ll be walking a lot and cobbled streets can be murder on the feet. Note also that major religious sights often enforce dress codes, so make sure you can cover your shoulders, torso and thighs. For going out in the evening, smart casual is the way to go.

What’s the score with tipping?

Tipping is not strictly necessary in restaurants as most places add servizio (service) to the bill. If they don’t or if you want to leave something, a few euros is fine in pizzerias and trattorias; 5% to 10% in smarter restaurants.

What’s this about not drinking a cappuccino after 11am?

Italy has a whole (unwritten) rule book on the dos and don’ts of drinking. As a foreign visitor you’ll get a pass if you order the wrong drink at the wrong time, but it helps to know that Italians regard cappuccinos as breakfast drinks, call an espresso un caffè , and drink beer with pizza.

What’s the card vs cash situation?

Businesses are legally obliged to accept digital payments but it’s always best to have some cash on you. You probably won’t have any problems but it’s not unheard of for payment machines to be mysteriously broken in smaller bars, shops, museums or restaurants. Major credit cards are widely accepted (Amex less so).

This article was first published May 2019 and updated February 2024

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Travel Advisory July 26, 2023

Italy - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise increased caution due to terrorism .

Country Summary: Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Italy. Terrorists may attack with little or no warning, targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, local government facilities, hotels, clubs, restaurants, places of worship, parks, major sporting and cultural events, educational institutions, airports, and other public areas.

Read the  country information page for additional information on travel to Italy.

If you decide to travel to Italy:

• Be aware of your surroundings when traveling to tourist locations and crowded public venues.
• Follow the instructions of local authorities.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your plans based on new information.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Italy.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist.

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

Six months validity recommended, at least 3 months validity beyond your planned date of departure from the Schengen area .

Two pages required for entry stamp.

Not required for stays under 90 days.

10,000 Euros or equivalent.

Embassies and Consulates

U.S. Embassy Rome

Via Vittorio Veneto, 121 00187 Rome, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 06-4674-1 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(39) 06-4674-1 Fax:  +(39) 06-4674-2244 Email:   [email protected] The Rome consular district includes the regions of Lazio, Marche, Umbria, Abruzzo, and Sardinia.

U.S. Mission to the UN Agencies in Rome Via Boncompagni, 2 Telephone:  (+39) 06-4674-1 Emergency after-hours telephone:  (+39) 06-4674-1 Fax:  (+39) 06 4674-3535 Email:   [email protected]

U.S. Embassy to the Holy See Via Sallustiana, 49 00162 Rome, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 06-4674-3428 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(39) 06-4674-1 Fax:  +(39) 06-575-8346

U.S. Consulate General Florence Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, 38 50123 Florence, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 055-266-951 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(39) 055-266-951 Fax:  +(39) 055-215-550 Email:   [email protected] The Florence consular district includes the regions of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna (all except the Provinces of Piacenza and Parma), as well as the Republic of San Marino.

U.S. Consulate General Milan Via Principe Amedeo 2/10 20121 Milano, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 02-290-351 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(39) 02-290-351 Fax:  +(39) 081-583-8275 Email:   [email protected] The Milan consular district includes the regions of Valle D'Aosta, Piemonte, Lombardia, Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Liguria, and Emilia-Romagna (Provinces of Piacenza and Parma only).

U.S. Consulate General Naples Piazza della Repubblica 80122 Naples, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 081-583-8111 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(39) 081-583-8111 Fax:  +(39) 081-583-8275 Email:  [email protected] The Naples consular district includes the regions of Campania, Molise, Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria, and Sicilia.

U.S. Consular Agent - Genoa Via Dante 2 16121 Genoa, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 010-584-492 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  Please contact the U.S. Consulate General in Milan. Fax:  +(39) 010-553-3033 Email:  [email protected] Hours: Monday through Thursday 11:00 AM-3:00 PM, by appointment only.

U.S. Consular Agent - Palermo Via G.B. Vaccarini 1 90143 Palermo, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 091-305-857 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  Please contact the U.S. Consulate General in Naples Fax:  +(39) 091-625-6026 Email:   [email protected] Hours: Monday through Friday 9:00 AM-12:30 PM by appointment only.

U.S. Consular Agent - Venice Viale Galileo Galilei 30 30173 Tessera, Italy Telephone:  +(39) 041-541-5944 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  Please contact the U.S. Consulate General in Milan. Fax:  +(39) 041-541-6654 Email:  [email protected] Hours: Monday through Thursday, 10:00 AM-4:00 PM, by appointment only.

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

There are no COVID-related entry requirements for U.S. citizens.  

Traveling Through Europe:  If you are planning to visit or travel through European countries, you should be familiar with the requirements of the Schengen Agreement. 

• Your passport must be valid for  at least three months beyond the period of stay. Review our  U.S. Travelers in Europe page .
• You will need  proof of  s ufficient funds  and a  return plane ticket .
• For additional information about visas for the Schengen area, see the  Schengen Visa page.
• U.S. citizens who arrive at an Italian Port of Entry without a valid travel document – including passports that have been previously reported lost or stolen – will be denied admittance into Italy and returned to their point of origin. This regulation is strictly enforced in Italy.
• U.S. citizens may enter Italy for up to 90 days for tourist or business purposes without a visa. All non-residents are required to complete a declaration of presence (dichiarazione di presenza). Prospective residents or anyone intending to stay in Italy for longer than 90 days must obtain a  permit of stay  (permesso di soggiorno). Additional information may be obtained from the  Ministry of Foreign Affairs  and the  Polizia di Stato .
• Non-EU visitors must obtain a stamp in their passport upon initial entry into a Schengen country. Many borders are unstaffed, so you may need to request a stamp at an official point of entry. Travelers arriving from another Schengen country must request the declaration of presence form from a local police office (commissariato di zona), police headquarters (questura), or their place of stay (e.g., hotel, hostel, campgrounds), and submit the form, along with a copy of your passport, to the police or to their place of stay within eight calendar days of arrival. Failure to complete a declaration of presence is punishable by expulsion from Italy.

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Italy.

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction , and  customs regulations  on our websites. For general information about Italian customs regulations, please read our  Customs Information page and our  Italian Customs  website.

Safety and Security

Terrorism:  Terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad. Terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack – including knives, firearms, improvised explosive devices (IEDs), and vehicles – to more effectively target crowds. Frequently, their aim is unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
• Places of worship
• Shopping malls and markets
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and commercial flights)

For more information, see our  Terrorism  page.

Politically motivated violence in Italy is most often connected to Italian internal developments or social issues. Italian authorities and foreign diplomatic facilities have found bombs outside public buildings, have received bomb threats, and have been targets of letter bombs, firebombs and Molotov cocktails in the past several years. These attacks generally occur at night, and although they have not targeted or injured U.S. citizens, you should remain aware of your surroundings and report any suspicious activity to local authorities.

Crime:  Italy has a moderate rate of crime, especially for theft and economic crimes; violent crimes are rare. U.S. citizens should be aware of the following local circumstances:

• Tourists can be fined or detained for buying counterfeit goods (usually fashion accessories).
• Travelers must purchase train, bus, or metro tickets and validate them by punching them in validating machines prior to boarding (usually near the entrance of the train or metro or on the bus). Tickets may be purchased at tobacco stores or kiosks or, in some cities, via Apps or SMS. Failure to follow this procedure may result in an on-the-spot fine by an inspector on the train, bus, or metro. If the violator does not pay the fine on the spot, it will automatically double and be forwarded to the violator’s home address.
• Be alert that many municipalities of cities in Italy have issued local restrictions banning certain activities in fountains or on monuments, such as eating, drinking, sitting, or bathing, as well as regarding the consumption of alcohol both indoors and outdoors after certain hours of the night.
• Violating these regulations can result in fines. Tourists are advised to check the official website of each city they plan to visit to learn the details.
• Thieves sometimes impersonate police officers. If you are stopped by a plainclothes policeman, ask for a uniformed officer or insist on seeing an officer's identification card (documento). Do not hand over your wallet and immediately report the incident to the actual police at a police station or by dialing 112 from a local phone.
• Do not leave bags unattended. Most reported thefts occur at crowded tourist sites, at airports, car rental agencies, on public buses, metros and trains, and at the major railway stations. Never leave baggage alone in a car, including in a closed trunk. For more information on trains and security, please see the  Italian railway police’s advice for travelers .
• Be alert to criminal schemes. Organized groups of thieves and pickpockets operate at major tourist destinations, in train stations, bars, and cafes. Some travelers have reported incidents in which criminals used drugs to assault or rob them. Thieves on motor scooters regularly snatch purses or bags off pedestrians. Resisting these thieves can be dangerous.
• Keep your car doors locked and windows rolled up at all times to avoid car-jackings and thefts while you are waiting in traffic.

The U.S. Secret Service in Rome is assisting Italian law enforcement authorities in investigating an increase in the appearance of ATM skimming devices. Here are some helpful hints to protect against and identify skimming devices:

• Use ATMs located in well-lit public areas or secured inside a bank/business.
• Cover the keypad with one hand as you enter your PIN.
• Look for gaps, tampered appearance, or other irregularities between the metal faceplate of the ATM and the card reader.
• Avoid card readers that are not flush with the face of the ATM.
• Closely monitor your account statements for unauthorized transactions.

Potential for Natural Disasters: Several major earthquake fault lines cross Italy, and earthquakes are frequent. High tides in Venice, flooding, and avalanches in mountainous areas may occasionally occur. The Italian Civil Protection agency has a robust capability to assist Italians and foreigners in the area of a natural disaster. Information about crisis preparedness and on-going crises affecting parts of Italy can be found on the Civil Protection web site at:  Civil Protection Italy . General information about disaster preparedness is also available online from the  U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency  (FEMA). Detailed information on Italy's fault lines is available from the  U.S. Geological Survey  (USGS).

Italy also has several active volcanoes, including Mt. Etna in eastern Sicily. Travelers to Sicily should be aware of the possibility for travel disruptions, including airport closures, in the event of volcanic activity, and are advised to check the website of the  Istituto Nazionale di Geofisica e Vulcanologia  for detailed information and daily updates. Italy has many other areas of potential volcanic activity especially in the vicinity of Naples. Any visit to an active volcano or volcanic field bears a certain amount of risk. Eruptions can occur with little to no warning. Travelers should exercise caution, follow posted instructions, stay on authorized trails, and use reputable tour operators.

Demonstrations  occur frequently and can be anti-American in nature, especially in areas hosting U.S. military bases. They may take place in response to political or economic issues, on politically significant holidays, and during international events. 

• Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly become violent. 
• Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations. 
• Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.
• Security Messages for U.S. citizens pertaining to  demonstrations  can be found on the Embassy’s website.

International Financial Scams:  See the  Department of State  and the  FBI  pages for information.

Internet romance and financial scams are prevalent in Italy. Scams are often initiated through Internet postings/profiles or by unsolicited emails and letters. Scammers almost always pose as U.S. citizens who have no one else to turn to for help. Common scams include:

• Romance/Online dating
• Money transfers
• Lucrative sales
• Contracts with promises of large commissions
• Grandparent/Relative targeting
• Free Trip/Luggage
• Inheritance notices
• Work permits/job offers

Victims of Crime:  U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault should seek medical attention at the nearest public hospital as soon as possible. U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault are also encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy for assistance at +(39) 06-4674-1. Report crimes to the local police by dialing 112. Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crimes.

See our webpage on  help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

• Help you find appropriate medical care
• Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• Explain the local criminal justice process in general terms
• Provide a list of local English-speaking attorneys
• Provide information on  victim’s compensation programs in the United States
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• Help you find accommodation and arrange flights home
• Replace a stolen or lost passport

Victim Compensation in Italy :

• Italy has a program which provides financial compensation for victims of terrorism, organized crime, hit and run drivers and violent intentional crimes.
• If you are a  victim of terrorism or organized crime  in Italy, you are entitled to economic (special compensation and a life income) and non-economic benefits (special access to certain state jobs).
• In case of death, victims will include family members. You must file the application with the local Prefect’s office (Prefettura - the local representative for the Ministry of Interior) where the crime occurred, providing the date, location, injuries, and losses resulting from the crime.
• If you are a  victim of a hit and run driver,  you can apply for compensation of damages to the Fondo Di Garanzia per le Vittime della Strada but only if: (i) the responsible vehicle cannot be identified, is not covered by car insurance, or it circulated against the owner’s will; (ii) if the car insurance company went bankrupt; or (iii) if the accident was caused by a foreign vehicle with a license number that does not match or does not match anymore that same vehicle. U.S. citizens should consult an attorney licensed to practice in Italy to clarify time limits for a specific legal action.

Victims of hit and run drivers and their families may seek assistance by reaching out to an Italian non-governmental organization (NGO) called Associazione Italiana Familiari e Vittime della Strada (AIFVS), “Association of Italian Family Members and Victims of Hit and Run Drivers”. AIFVS provides legal and psychological assistance through a network of professionals associated with the NGO. Please visit  AIFVS  for more details.

If you are a  victim of a violent intentional crime,  you are entitled to compensation from the Italian government to cover the medical and welfare expenses you incurred, except for sexual assaults and murders cases where the compensation is due even if no medical and welfare expense was sustained. To be eligible for the compensation, your annual income must be within a certain limit. In addition, you must prove that you have already unsuccessfully tried to enforce the decision ordering compensation for damages. We recommend you contact an attorney licensed to practice in Italy for more information.

Domestic Violence:  U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence may contact the Embassy or nearest Consulate for assistance.

Tourism:  The tourism industry is generally regulated and rules with regard to best practices and safety inspections are regularly enforced. Hazardous areas/activities are identified with appropriate signage and professional staff is typically on hand in support of organized activities. In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is widely available throughout the country. Outside of a major metropolitan center, it may take more time for first responders and medical professionals to stabilize a patient and provide life-saving assistance. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance . 

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Your U.S. passport will not prevent you from being detained, arrested, or prosecuted. Individuals establishing a business or practicing a profession that requires additional permits or licensing should seek information from the competent local authorities, prior to practicing or operating a business.

Furthermore, some crimes are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy or nearest Consulate immediately. See our  webpage  for further information.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods:  Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws. You may also pay fines or have to give them up if you bring them back to the United States. See the  U.S. Department of Justice website  for more information.

Faith-Based Travelers:  See our following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report  – see country reports
• Human Rights Report  – see country reports
• Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTQI+ RIGHTS:  There are no legal restrictions on same-sex sexual relations or the organization of LGBTQI+ events in Italy. Same sex civil unions are legally recognized in Italy. See our  LGBTQI+ Travel Information  page and section 6 of the  Department of State's Human Rights report  for further details.

Travelers Who Require Accessibility Assistance .  The law in Italy prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, sensory, intellectual or mental disabilities, and the law is enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is as prevalent as in the United States. The most common types of accessibility may include accessible facilities, information, and communication/access to services/ease of movement or access. Expect accessibility to be limited in public transportation, lodging, communication/information, and general infrastructure, and common in lodging and general infrastructure. There is a significant difference between the main cities and the small towns.

• Rental, repair, replacement parts for aids/equipment/devices, or service providers, such as sign language interpreters or personal assistants, are generally available. Contact the US Embassy in Italy to receive a list of providers.
• Hand-controlled rental cars are available in Italy from major car rental companies. Contact the car rental company well in advance of your trip in order to reserve the vehicle.
• Italy functions on 220-volt current. To recharge a power wheelchair, you may need a transformer to convert 220 to 110 volts and a plug adapter to fit Italian electrical sockets.
• Guide dog owners must present  the documentation required by European Union Member States in order to enter Italy with a dog .

Students:  Students are often targeted by criminals as targets of theft or sexual assault. See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES:  Strikes and other work stoppages  frequently occur in the transportation sector (national airlines, airports, trains, and bus lines); reconfirm any domestic and/or international flight reservations if you are traveling during one of these events.

Women Travelers:  If you are a woman traveling abroad, please review our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

For emergency services in Italy, dial 112 .

Ambulance services are widely available, but training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards.

Medical facilities are available but may be limited outside urban areas. Public hospitals may not maintain the same standards as hospitals in the United States. It is not possible to obtain an itemized hospital bill from public hospitals, as required by many U.S. insurance companies, because the Italian National Health Service charges one inclusive rate for care services and room and board. Private hospitals require you to pay for all services up front and get reimbursed later from your insurance company.

We do not pay medical bills . Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas.

Medical Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. See our  webpage  for more information on insurance coverage overseas. Visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to cover medical evacuation.

In Italy, end-of-life directives are not legal. Tourists should know that by law, hospitals will continue with lifesaving procedures indefinitely regardless of a person’ preferences stated in a will or advanced directive.

Pharmaceuticals:  The Italian Ministry of Health sets rules defining who and how prescriptions and medications can be imported into Italy. However, the Ministry of Health website does not have information in English. According to the Ministry of Health, foreigners entering Italy are allowed to bring personal medications for a period of 30 days, but it is recommended that travelers also bring a copy of their prescription with them. Travelers should not bring excess supplies of prescription drugs into the country and cannot bring prescription drugs for other people.

The import of medications into Italy by courier services or by mail is strictly regulated by Italian Customs laws. Italian customs clears all incoming shipments of medications, even small amounts for personal use. Delays in the release of medications by Italian Customs received by mail or by courier services are common. The receiving party must be able to provide a statement signed by a physician licensed in Italy, certifying:

The medication is essential for the patient, that he/she would be put in a life-threatening situation without it.

There is no substitute or equivalent medication available on the Italian market.

Exercise caution when purchasing medication overseas. Pharmaceuticals, both over the counter and requiring prescription in the United States, are often readily available for purchase with minimal controls. Medication should be purchased in consultation with a medical professional and from reputable establishments.

U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration are responsible for rules governing the transport of medication back to the United States. Medication purchased abroad must meet their requirements to be legally brought back into the United States. Medication should be for personal use and must be approved for usage in the United States. Please visit the  U.S. Customs and Border Protection  and the  Food and Drug Administration  websites for more information.

Vaccinations : Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

For further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality:  Visit  AirNow Department of State  for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates. Many cities in Italy have air pollution levels similar to those in major U.S. cities. 

In parts of Italy, the lack of adequate trash disposal and incineration sites has led to periodic accumulations of garbage. In some cases, residents have burned garbage, resulting in toxic emissions that can aggravate respiratory problems. 

Visit the  European Environment Agency’s website  for information on air quality in Italy.

Health Facilities:

The U.S. Embassy maintains a  list of doctors and hospitals . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

• Adequate health facilities are available throughout Italy, but health services may be below U.S. standards.
• Private hospitals usually require advance payment or proof of adequate insurance before admitting a patient.
• Travelers should make efforts to obtain complete information on billing, pricing, and proposed medical procedures before agreeing to any medical care.
• Medical staff may speak little or no English.
• Generally, in public hospitals only minimal staff is available overnight in non-emergency wards.
• In most cases, patients bear costs for transfer to or between hospitals.

Medical Tourism and Elective Surgery

• Medical tourism is a rapidly growing industry. People seeking health care overseas should understand that medical systems operate differently from those in the United States and are not subject to the same rules and regulations. Anyone interested in traveling for medical purposes should consult with their local physician before traveling and visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  website for more information on Medical Tourism.
• We strongly recommend  supplemental insurance  to cover medical evacuation in the event of unforeseen medical complications.

Adventure Travel: Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for more information about  Adventure Travel .

Travel and Transportation

ROAD CONDITIONS AND SAFETY:  While in Italy, you may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States such as:

• Traffic lights are limited and often disobeyed.
• Motor scooters are very popular, and their riders may behave unexpectedly.
• Drivers frequently pass on superhighways (autostrada) at very high speeds.
• Rural roads are generally narrow, often have no guardrails, and inconsistent speed limits.
• Be careful when crossing streets even when using a marked crosswalk with a green walk (avanti) light illuminated.

Traffic Laws:

• Seat belt use is compulsory.
• You must use headlights year-round and at all times outside of urban areas.
• During the autumn/winter months, it is compulsory to have either winter tires or carry snow chains if driving outside urban areas.
• If you are stopped, under certain conditions you are expected to pay the police officer issuing the ticket immediately. Be prepared to pay in cash in local currency. Local police can confiscate your car if you cannot pay the fine.
• Fines are imposed if driving without the proper permits in historic downtown areas of cities and towns throughout Italy. Cameras photograph the license plates of cars illegally driving in parts of the city that require a permit. The fines imposed for these violations are forwarded to the driver’s home in the United States to request payment. For definitive legal guidance or to contest a fine, you should consult a lawyer licensed to practice in Italy.  See the U.S. Embassy of Rome’s transportation page for more information .
• Public Transportation: Pickpocketing is frequent on all public transportation, especially at train stations and major tourist sites.

See our  Road Safety  page for more information. Also, we suggest that you visit the website of the  Automobile Club d’Italia  (A.C.I.). For information on obtaining international drivers licenses, contact the  American Automobile Association  (AAA) via telephone at (407) 444-7000 or fax (407) 444-7380.

AVIATION SAFETY OVERSIGHT:  The U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has assessed the Government of Italy’s Civil Aviation Authority as being in compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards for oversight of Italy’s air carrier operations. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to Italy should also check for  U.S. maritime advisories and alerts . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the  NGA broadcast warnings .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in Italy . For additional IPCA-related information, please see the International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act ( ICAPRA ) report.

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13 Travel Books to Read Before Your Next Trip to Italy

Posted: October 28, 2023 | Last updated: October 28, 2023

Since you’re reading this article on Condé Nast Traveler , you’re likely someone who believes in the transportive power of good writing—and of travel books in particular. Whether it’s a vividly-rendered novel, or a well-researched deep dive into the history, subculture, or food of a place, a good travel-y read can easily inspire your next trip.

As the cold weather starts to creep into many parts of the world, many of us here at Traveler have Italy on the brain, dreaming of Amalfi 's crystalline waters, of melting gelato in Rome , of the warm Tuscan sun . Are you dreaming of la dolce vita too? Here’s a short list of books set in Italy that’ll motivate you to, well, book a trip. (Get it?)

Few places in the world invoke as much swooning and intense wanderlust as Italy , and this list of books features stories of various stripes: gripping thrillers, fascinating and readable histories, romantic true stories of love and loss, and unputdownable page-turners that’ll get you through a long layover . There’s something here for everyone, and a good handful of these titles have been adapted into movies (and one TV show), which underscores the point that these are some lush, cinematic, and extremely vibey books.

Read on to pick some travel books to add to your bedside table—and your overpacked suitcase .

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The Marriage Portrait by Maggie O’Farrell

What it’s about: This captivating novel, set in the 16th-century, spins a story inspired by a little-known daughter of the Medici family, Lucrezia, who was wedded to a duke as part of a political marriage and, just a year after the wedding, was found dead. Inspired by Lucrezia’s titular marriage portrait, Maggie O’Farrell (no stranger to fictionalizing historical trivia ) writes in prose both lavish and readable, daring you to put down this strange and delicious book. With plenty of narrative twists and palazzo intrigue, this book will drop you into the middle of Renaissance Florence and never let you go.

The mood it’s giving: Running through an Italian palace in a very heavy gown, weighing you down like you're in a nightmare—in the best way possible

The book’s first line: “Lucrezia is taking her seat at the long dining table, which is polished to a watery gleam and spread with dishes, inverted cups, a woven circlet of fir.”

The Medici: Power, Money, and Ambition in the Italian Renaissance by Paul Strathern

What it’s about: For a more factual understanding of the influential family that shaped the Italian Renaissance, you can’t go wrong with this 464-page tome. This evocative and masterful account of the dramatic history of the Medicis also covers their patronage of the day’s greatest minds (Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Galileo, among others), offering context and knowledge upon which you can draw during your next visit to Florence and greater Tuscany.

The mood it’s giving: The thrill and shock of Succession , but Florentine and, you know, real

The book’s first line: “It is Sunday 26 April 1478 in Florence, and the church bells ring out from the towers above the rooftops of the city. Lorenzo the Magnificent, accompanied by his circle of favourites, is making his way through the colorful crowds towards the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.”

A Room with a View by E. M. Forster

What it’s about: This beloved classic of English literature, a satire of English society in the Edwardian era first published in 1908, opens at a hotel in Florence, Italy: Charlotte Bartlett and her cousin Lucy Honeychurch are positively incensed that their rooms face a drab courtyard (how dreadful!). Another guest and his son offer to switch accommodations with theirs—and what follows is a series of semi-fortunate events that will make you want to book a room with a view of the Arno and get into some Italian hijinks yourself. (The Merchant Ivory film adaptation is also stellar, starring Helena Bonham Carter and Maggie Smith.)

The mood it’s giving: That moment where Kim Kardashian is crying because she lost her diamond earring in the ocean in Bora Bora and her sister Kourtney telling her, “Kim, there’s people that are dying”—but in Florence

The book’s first line: “‘The Signora had no business to do it,” said Miss Bartlett, “no business at all. She promised us south rooms with a view close together, instead of which here are north rooms, looking into a courtyard, and a long way apart.”

Sex and Vanity by Kevin Kwan

What it’s about: For a contemporary take on the set-up introduced by A Room with a View , pick up Kevin Kwan’s delightfully frothy Sex and Vanity . The protagonists are named Lucie and Charlotte as well, and Kwan’s latest novel Forster-ly satirizes the uber-rich Asian and Asian American diaspora that the author has long lampooned in his Crazy Rich trilogy of books. Only time will tell though, if sex and vanity are as timeless as a room with a view—but as far as cotton-candy vacation reads go, you can do far worse than bringing this paperback onto a chartered yacht.

The mood it’s giving: Crazy Rich Asians decadence goes to Capri (and the Hamptons)

The book’s first line: “[an email with the subject line: la dolce vita] Lucie!!! I’m sooooo happy you’re coming to my wedding in Capri!”

Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walter

What it’s about: There are many ways to do Italy on a budget, and there are just as many (if not more) ways to do it extravagantly. Perhaps that’s why our collective cultural imagination so often links the fantasy of the Italian Riviera with how the rich and famous behave—and behave badly. All that to say, Jess Walter’s Beautiful Ruins is a sweeping and swooning book that brilliantly dissects the power plays and petty dramas of our contemporary demigods (Hollywood stars), as well as the Italian seaside villages that everyone can access, even if it means swimming to get there.

The mood it’s giving: That one series of unbelievably glamorous photos of Paul Newman at the Venice Film Festival in 1963

The book’s first sentence: “The dying actress arrived in his village the only way one could come directly—in a boat that motored into the cove, lurched past the rock jetty, and bumped against the end of the pier.”

The Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit by Helena Attlee

What it’s about: Fancy a visit to a marmalade kitchen in Sicily? To bergamot groves in Calabria? To lemon houses by the banks of Lago di Garda? You’ll get all that and more in this sumptuous and sensual history of citrus throughout the Italian peninsula. Helena Attlee blends her deep knowledge of the country with insightful gastronomical observations—and recipes!—to make an immensely readable and giftable volume that’s as fragrant as a helping of delizia al limone on a terrace in Amalfi.

The mood it’s giving: As sharp and sparkling, tart and satisfying as a limoncello spritz

The book’s first line: “At dawn, I lifted a corner of the curtain in the stuffy couchette and realized we had already crossed the border. We were somewhere near Ventimiglia on the Italian Riviera, and there were lemons growing beside the station platform, their dark leaves and bright fruit set against a backdrop of nothing but sea.”

The Talented Mr. Ripley by Patricia Highsmith

What it’s about: We can’t talk about la dolce vita without bringing up The Talented Mr. Ripley , the novel wherein young Tom Ripley goes to Italy and falls in love with the indulgent, carefree lifestyle of Dickie Greenleaf (and, in some readings, Greenleaf himself)—so much so that he kills the young heir and assumes his identity. The 1999 film adaptation is better known for depicting the sunny sprezzatura of a Mediterranean holiday, but in all formats, the story is always rife with tension and monied decadence.

The mood it’s giving: Chic knit polos and swim trunks wet with saltwater that may or may not be stained with blood

The book’s first line: “Tom glanced behind him and saw the man coming out of the Green Cage, heading his way. Tom walked faster. There was no doubt the man was after him.”

Under the Tuscan Sun: At Home in Italy by Frances Mayes

What it’s about: Yet another go-to-Italy-and-change-your-life classic, Frances Mayes’s memoir truly changed the game. I wouldn’t be surprised if this book—and the 2003 film adaptation —are responsible for a sizable chunk of Italy’s GDP. But yes, this story has surely inspired many non-Italians to visit the cypress-studded Tuscan countryside, hoping to come upon a rundown villa in need of restoration and love, just as Mayes does in this travel writing classic.

The mood it’s giving: A leisurely walk through a Tuscan farmer’s market, where you come upon the most sweet-tart tomato you’ve ever had, its sun-bright juice coating your lips

The book’s first line: “‘What are you growing here?’ The upholsterer lugs an armchair up the walkway to the house but his quick eyes are on the land.”

From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home by Tembi Locke

What it’s about: If Under the Tuscan Sun is an easy-going drive through the Italian heartland, then From Scratch is a journey of highs and lows along the hilly and rugged terrain of Sicily. Actor and writer Tembi Locke’s memoir tells her personal history of falling in love with her Italian husband, building a life together in Los Angeles, grieving him after his death due to cancer, and rebuilding her life with their daughter in Sicily. The book is heartfelt and Locke’s language is generous and graceful. If you’d rather binge the story on your screen, there’s a 2022 Netflix adaptation too. Either way, both will leave you weeping into your tub of gelato.

The mood it’s giving: Making eye contact with the love of your life, being reminded that life is bittersweet—so beautiful and so short

The book’s first line: “In Sicily, every story begins with a marriage or a death. In my case, it’s both.”

The Truffle Underground: A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World's Most Expensive Fungus by Ryan Jacobs

What it’s about: Have you ever tasted a truffle? I mean, a true truffle that bursts with the flavor of Italian terroir? If you have, then you’ll relate to the author Ryan Jacobs when he describes tasting a white truffle: He felt transported, “momentarily, into an alternate universe, a place where flavor mattered more than truth and virtue.” And it’s true that pursuit of flavor stomps out virtue, as Jacobs reports it in this deep investigative dive into the industry and sub-world of truffles—where rival truffle hunters poison each other’s truffle-hunting dogs, where hunters carrying rifles protect their hunting grounds from spies, where counterfeits dupe even the most well-trained experts. Read this book, and you’ll understand why your dinner of tagliatelle al tartufo costs 50 euros.

The mood it’s giving: A crime documentary, but about truffles! I really can’t sell this book any better than the facts can

The book’s first line: “Threads of fungus swirl through the heat and dark of the rocky soil. They spend years twisting, extending, contorting, in perpetual search of nutrients to bring back to their host tree.”

The Lying Life of Adults by Elena Ferrante

What it’s about: Ask anyone about good books and Italian culture, and the name Elena Ferrante is bound to come up. The pseudonymous writer’s four novels—known as the Neapolitan Quartet, beginning with the epidemic My Brilliant Friend —seemed to be everywhere in the last decade in the English-speaking world, due in no small part to the genius translation work of Ann Goldstein from the original Italian. Their collaboration shines once again in The Lying Life of Adults , a novel set in Naples (where else?) that depicts “Naples of the heights, which wears a mask of refinement, and Naples of the depths, a place of excess and vulgarity,” as narrated by a 14-year-old girl named Giovanna.

The mood it’s giving: The most observant and clear-eyed diary entries of an insightful young girl in Napoli

The book’s first sentence: “Two years before leaving home my father said to my mother that I was very ugly. The sentence was uttered under his breath, in the apartment that my parents, newly married, had bought at the top of Via San Giacomo dei Capri, in Rione Alto.”

In Other Words by Jhumpa Lahiri

What it’s about: On its surface, Jhumpa Lahiri’s In Other Words is a series of short essays and reflections about the task of learning Italian. But once you crack open this elegant volume, you’ll see it’s so much more: Lahiri first wrote the book in Italian (to all the better master the language), and the English translation was provided by Ann Goldstein (yes, who translates Ferrante as well); more unusual, both the Italian and the English stand side by side in the book, on opposite pages. Reading how Lahiri’s fluency and confidence with Italian flourishes alongside the evolving English translation is enough inspiration for anyone to at least pick up a tourist phrasebook for Italian. Dov’è la libreria?

The mood it’s giving: Drinking in the mystique and genius of your most brilliant friend from your first year of college whom you met in that Italian 101 class

The book’s first sentence: “Voglio attraversare un piccolo lago. È veramente piccolo, eppure l’altra sponda mi sembra troppo distante, oltre le mie capacità. | I want to cross a small lake. It really is small, and yet the other shore seems too far away, beyond my abilities.”

Call Me By Your Name by André Aciman

What it’s about: It’s now a tale as old as time: An eloquent and cerebral narrator recalls the time how he, as a young man in the 1980s, stayed at his family’s home in Northern Italy and was drawn to the graduate student his parents took under their wing for the summer—and how their mutual attraction led to a profound exploration of desire, intimacy, and what it means to lose it all. Of course, the 2017 film adaptation is better known for its atmospheric cinematography (think sun-baked peaches, glimmering Lombardian lakes, the worn-in grandeur of Villa Albergoni in Moscazzano) but the source material is better at conveying the intense limerence of young romance, the kind that a scenic Italian backdrop renders all the more heady and bittersweet.

The mood it’s giving: Summer, somewhere in Northern Italy, cascading melodies on the piano floating out from the villa’s windows and out onto the pomegranate orchard

The book’s first sentence: “‘ Later! ’ The word, the voice, the attitude. I’d never heard anyone use ‘later’ to say goodbye before. It sounded harsh, curt, and dismissive, spoken with the veiled indifference of people who may not care to see or hear from you again.”

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Art of craft

She Slept With a Violin on Her Pillow. Her Dreams Came True in Italy.

As a teenager in South Korea, Ayoung An decided to become a violin maker. Her journey eventually took her to Cremona, Italy, a famed hub for masters like Antonio Stradivari.

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Text by Valeriya Safronova

Photographs and Video by Sasha Arutyunova

Reporting from Cremona, Italy

• April 4, 2024

Art of Craft is a series about craftspeople whose work rises to the level of art.

When Ayoung An was 8, her parents bought her a violin. She slept with the instrument on the pillow next to her every night.

Two years later, a shop selling musical instruments opened in Pyeongtaek, South Korea, her hometown, and An became a fixture there, pelting the owner with questions. “I think I bothered him a lot,” An, now 32, said.

As a teenager, she decided she would become a violin maker. Eventually, a journey with twists and turns took her to Cremona in northern Italy — a famed hub for violin makers , including masters like Antonio Stradivari , since the 16th century. There, An, a rising star in the violin-making world with international awards under her belt, runs her own workshop .

Set on a quiet cobblestone street, An’s studio is bathed in natural light and filled with books and piles of wood chunks that must air dry for five to 10 years before becoming instruments or risk warping. She shares the two-room studio with her husband, Wangsoo Han, who’s also a violin maker.

On a recent Monday, An was hunched over a thick 20-inch piece of wood held in place by two metal clamps. Pressing her body down for leverage, she scraped the wood with a gouge, removing layers, her hands steady and firm. She was forming a curving neck called a “scroll,” one of the later steps of making a violin or cello. On this day, the violin maker was immersed on a commission for a cello, which shares a similar crafting process.

Asked which part of the process is the most crucial, she answered without hesitation: all of them.

“Even very small details can affect the sound.”

Violins like An’s, made in the tradition of Stradivari and Giuseppe Guarneri, require about two months of work and sell for about 16,000 to 17,000 euros, or $17,500 to $18,500. “I can make a violin in three weeks, but I don’t want to,” An said. “This object is very precious to the person purchasing it.”

An was 17 when she hatched her plan to learn the craft: She would move in with an American family in a Chicago suburb so that she could attend a local high school, master English and eventually study at the Chicago School of Violin Making. There were no such schools in Korea at the time. Her parents, distraught about her moving so far away to pursue an uncertain career path, tried to stop her.

“I didn’t eat for days,” An said. Finally, they gave in. “When I said goodbye to my parents at the airport, they were crying,” she said. “I wasn’t. I was too excited.”

Two years after moving to Illinois, she discovered that one of the best known schools for violin makers, the International School of Violin Making , was actually in Cremona. So in 2011, at age 20, she moved to a new country again.

Cremona was home to some of history’s most famous luthiers, makers of stringed instruments: Stradivari; Andrea Amati , considered “the father of the violin”; and the Guarneri family. For the 160 to 200 violin makers in Cremona today, the sound quality of the masters remains the ultimate goal. “The traditional method is not about experimenting,” An said.

Around the studio, small pots of pigment, for varnishing, sat on shelves and tables alongside jars of powders — ground glass and minerals — for polishing. On a wall were dozens of knives, chisels and saws. Also present: dentist’s tools to scratch the instrument for a more antique look.

An uses rocks or dry pasta “to scratch the instrument so it looks more antique,” she said.

“I believe in beauty in imperfection.”

An is the youngest member of a consortium in Cremona dedicated to upholding violin-making traditions. She is so immersed in the Cremonese method of violin making that, at the suggestion of a mentor, she created an artist’s name, Anna Arietti, to better fit in with Italian culture.

An important moment is when luthiers place their label inside the instrument, called a “baptism.” To make her label, An stamps her ink signature onto a small piece of paper — a browned page from a secondhand book, giving the impression of age. Then, using a traditional homemade mixture of melted bovine skin and rabbit skin as a long-lasting adhesive, she glues the label inside one half of the instrument. She also burns the signature of her Korean name into the instrument with a tiny heated brand.

Afterward, the two halves are sealed together, completing the main body of the instrument. Her Italian artist’s name remains inside, intact as long as the violin is.

“That’s why I wanted to be a violin maker,” An said. “At least one person who plays my violin will remember me 100 or 200 years later.”

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I've been to 107 countries. Italy and Mexico are great, but these 5 underrated destinations should be on your travel radar.

• I've visited 107 countries, and I recommend these 5 that can be overlooked for more popular places. 
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• Costa Rica is popular but not as packed with tourists as some similarly beautiful places nearby. 

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Some are specifically looking for "travel dupes," a term for destinations similar to popular spots that are often cheaper with fewer crowds.

And, as someone who's been to 107 countries , I can tell you each region of the world has an often overlooked country that may offer a more rewarding experience than a more well-known place. These more under-the-radar destinations are often less crowded, and your dollar just might go further.

Popular travel destinations like Italy, France, and Mexico are great picks — but consider visiting these alternative options to the more popular choices in the region.

Estonia is a European dream.

I was immediately captivated by the fairy-tale appearance of Tallinn, the capital city of Estonia.

Walking the cobblestoned streets within the fortress-like walls of the old city transported me back to medieval times.

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Although many people visit Tallinn as a day trip from Helsinki, which is a two-hour ferry ride away, it's worth staying here for a few days and heading into the Estonian countryside. The roads are often quite empty and incredibly peaceful.

I enjoyed Estonia so much that I returned twice more in the 18 months after my first visit.

I've enjoyed visiting Oman, a country in the Middle East.

Dubai gets a lot of attention for its luxurious travel opportunities , and many know Qatar because it recently hosted the World Cup, but nearby Oman should not be skipped.

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It's an experience so breathtaking I'd expected it to be packed with tourists, but it wasn't when we visited. We only saw a handful of people, which allowed us to really enjoy our trip.

I've seen many parts of Africa, but Namibia may just be my favorite spot.

I have been fortunate to go on safaris in Kenya , Botswana, and Tanzania, but Namibia is my favorite travel destination of the bunch.

While there, we rented a campervan and did a self-drive tour of the country, allowing us to explore independently. Yet again, we avoided the crowds and the campsites were usually just us and local animals.

Waking up to the sounds of monkeys, elephants, and even lions was a special treat, especially knowing we were safe inside our campervan.

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Sri Lanka showcases a lot of what Asia landscapes have to offer.

Asia has some beautiful beaches, but Sri Lanka has beaches and tea plantations, mountains, rocks, waterfalls, and more.

We visited Sri Lanka last year and hired a driver and guide who showcased the diverse landscapes of this island country. The food was terrific and extremely cheap — our family of four was fed for less than $10 on most occasions.

The locals I interacted with were incredibly friendly and the island is also small enough to allow for in-depth exploration in a relatively short time.

Costa Rica is an excellent place to visit in Central America.

Growing up in Texas, my wife has been to Mexico many times since the state shares a border with the country. But to explore somewhere new, smaller, and in the same region, we chose to have our honeymoon in Costa Rica .

Although it's still popular, Costa Rica offers an authentic travel experience as I feel it has yet to be overrun by tourists. Like the other countries on this list, it has a diverse landscape, from white-sand beaches to rainforests to volcanoes, so there's plenty to do.

We also visited during the rainy season, so we took advantage of low crowds , low prices, and often received upgrades — and, as a bonus, it rarely rained!

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Want to buy a $1 home in Italy? The best advice from 3 people who did it

For years now, people around the world have been captivated by Sicilian towns selling off abandoned homes starting at 1 euro , or roughly $1.08.

Several hundred homes have been sold to curious and ambitious renovators, including Meredith Tabbone, 44, of Chicago. She learned in 2019 that a town called Sambuca di Sicilia was auctioning off homes starting with 1-euro bids.

"A lot of people warned me that it could be a scam [and that] I could end up losing a lot of money," she tells CNBC Make It.

Still, she took up the idea when she realized her great-grandfather was actually from Sambuca. She placed her bid on a home for 5,555 euros sight unseen and won, thus starting her on a four-year journey of renovations.

"From the moment that I sent in the bid and checked my email every day and found out that I won, all the way through this process, there have been 4 million moments of frustration, exhaustion, contemplation of how to move forward," she says.

Tabbone and other 1-euro homebuyers share their biggest pieces of advice to other aspiring renovators around the world.

Prepare for additional costs

Sicily's homes may start at 1 euro, but the cost is largely symbolic and just the start of more expenses down the line.

In Mussomeli, one of the most famous 1-euro towns, buyers must also pay a realtors fee of 500 euros and pay for the deed, which costs 2,800 euros. That adds up to a total of 3,301 euros, or nearly $3,600.

Rubia Daniels, 50, of Berkeley, Calif., bought three 1-euro homes in Mussomeli in 2019. So far, she's focused her efforts on renovating her main vacation home. She originally thought it would cost her $20,000 but has already spent $35,000 between materials, labor and furniture. She hopes to stay under $40,000.

Tabbone paid 5,555 euros for her home, plus some taxes and fees, bringing the home sale up to 5,900 euros, or roughly $6,400. She then bought the building next door through a private sale with the owner for 22,000 euros, or nearly $24,000. 

Over the next four years, Tabbone spent about 425,000 euros on renovations, or roughly $463,000. Altogether, that adds up to 430,900 euros, or $469,500 for her dream home in Sicily.

Be present for renovations

Speaking of renovations, though communicating with local construction workers can kick off plans, buyers say it's crucial to be on the ground while work is being done.

Danny McCubbin, an Australian native who bought a 1-euro house in Mussomeli, says he's seen "quite a few" foreigners try to manage their project from their home country.

McCubbin bought his cheap Sicilian home in 2019 with hopes to turn it into a food-rescue charity. He ended up selling his house back to the real estate agency after it experienced extensive, and costly, water damage. But he managed to open his charity, The Good Kitchen, elsewhere in town.

"It's best to actually be here with the builder, choosing the tiles, choosing whatever you need," he says. For the times you can't be there in-person, he also recommends finding a local project manager who can speak English and Italian to communicate plans with the local crew.

Have patience

Daniels works in construction and learned quickly that things in Sicily take much longer than they do in the U.S.

"Working with contractors in Sicily, I had to learn how to set my expectations, but not my American expectations," she says.

Have patience to understand the culture and how business is done so you don't get frustrated, she adds. She's been renovating her main home in Mussomeli on and off since 2020 and is still several months from finishing.

"Overall, there's plenty capable people to do the work," Daniels says, but "the work here, it flows in a different way. You have to remember this is an island and they are in an island time. So [things] just move a little bit slower than what you expect."

Visit in the winter

If you're planning to buy real estate in another country, it's best to spend a good amount of time there. And don't only go when it's peak travel season.

"I always say come for longer than one or two weeks," McCubbin says. "And most importantly, come in winter. In summertime it's beautiful. It's sunny, the houses, there's no mold in them. You discover in winter that a lot of these houses do have mold. They do have moisture, and it's a very different feel here than in summer."

Learn the language

Tabbone, Daniels and McCubbin agree that it's crucial to learn Italian in order to really get around Sicily, especially if you plan to spend part of your year there.

Language-learning apps and courses are a good place to start, but immersing yourself among locals is another great way to practice.

Tabbone says she enjoys spending time with Sicilians when she visits. Her first friends in Sambuca included members of the construction crew on her project, who then introduced her to their friends and family members. She also has a close relationship with the town's mayor — she practices her Italian with him and he practices his English with her.

"I think I would be extremely fluent in Italian if Google Translate did not exist," she jokes, "but I'm very, very proficient at Google Translate."

Don't be lured just by cheap houses

Newcomers to Sicily may be attracted by inexpensive houses, but many say their biggest reason for staying is the people they meet along the way.

"I always say, don't be allured by the fact that the houses are cheap," McCubbin says. "Think about where you want to be and where you want to spend your time. Having said that, people here are kind. People here are very friendly. It's a great place to live." McCubbin now lives in Mussomeli full-time and owns another house there.

Tabbone says one of her favorite things about Sambuca is how she can connect with fellow foreigners as well as long-time residents.

"One of the things that I love the most about Sambuca is that the community is not just expats who are moving here. It's really well intertwined with the locals and the community. Any dinner party that you go to, even if you just go to a cafe on the street, you will always see a very nice mixture of expats and of locals, and I love that."

Conversions from euros to USD were done using the OANDA conversion rate of 1 euro to 1.08 USD on March 22, 2024. All amounts are rounded to the nearest dollar.

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