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Bronco & F-150 Extended Beam Suspension Kit / Stage 5

$ 13,580.00 – $ 16,380.00

The Stage 5 Kit is a performance long-travel suspension setup for the 1980-1996 Ford Bronco & 4×4 F-150. Extended beams 3″ or 4.5″ over, with 4″ of lift.

( Front and Rear Suspension)

Description

Additional information.

• Installation Guide
• Applications

The 1980-1996 Bronco and F-150 Extended Beam Suspension Kit is a long-travel performance suspension system. The TTBs are extended either 3″ over or 4.5″ over stock width. The wider track width from the Extended Beams allows for more wheel travel and better stability.

An impressive 17″-19″ front wheel travel, and 17″ rear wheel travel can be achieved with this kit.  These numbers will depend on your tire size and other factors. The limit straps set the maximum droop and prevent shock and axle damage when the suspension droops out.

The King Shocks 2.0 x 2″ Bump stops on each side take care of the big hitters and prevent damage when bottoming out. This 4×4 long-travel performance suspension kit will get you (or others) out of almost any situation.

We strongly recommend professional installation and setup for optimal performance and safety. Our Swing Steer kit is highly recommended when running 35″ or 37″ tires.

The Cut N’ Turned Dana 44 TTBs are available as 4.5″ or 3″ extended per side, and 4340 Chromoly Dutchman  axles for reliable performance. The two 12″ King Coil-over Remote Reservoir shocks, combined with two 12″ King 3-Tube Bypass shocks up front offer serious long-travel business.

The Deaver Q80 progressive leaf springs in the rear are paired with our Q80 Shackle Conversion Kit. The 12″ 2.5 King Shocks Remote Reservoir 3-Tube Bypass shocks control the 17 inches of rear suspension travel. The rear shocks are mounted to a W-I-Y Under-the-Bed shock mount. King Shocks 2.0 x 2″ Bump stops slow down the last 2 inches of up travel.

• Front suspension travel approx.: 17-19 inches
• Rear suspension travel approx.: 17 inches
• Front and rear track width (wms to wms): Front: 88-90 inches track width, depending on wheel specs.  Rear: Currie 40-spline Full-Floater 72 in wms to wms
• Front and rear suspension lift approx.: 4 inches
• Recommended tire size: 35″ or 37″
• Fiberglass required front: Yes in front. No rear fiberglass needed with stock width rear end.
• Made in the U.S.A.

Extended Beam Suspension Kit Includes

• 12″ 2.5 King Shocks Coil-over Remote Reservoir shock (built specific for your application)
• 12″ 2.5 King Shocks 3-Tube Bypass shock (built specific for your application)
• 2″ 2.0 King Shocks “Shorty” Bump stops
• Bolt-on Front bump stop mounts
• Dana 44 Cut N’ Turned TTB Beams; 3″ or 4.5″ extended over stock width per side. 4130 Chromoly 1″ Uni-ball cups, fully gusseted, and pre-welded differential skid plate ( core charges apply – read more )
• Fabricated TTB Pivot Brackets
• 4340 Chromoly Dutchman for Dana 44 Extended Axles
• Heavy-Duty outer U-Joints
• 1.25″ Heimed Extended Radius Arms top an bottom welded reinforce plates
• Radius Arm Pivot Boxes
• 17-4 Stainless Steel Misalignment Spacers
• FK 1.25″ heims
• FK 1″ Uni-balls
• Grade 8 Hardware
• 3-Piece Extended Brake Line Kit for the front and rear
• Alignment Cams
• Drop Pitman Arm or Swing Steering (highly recommended)
• W-I-Y Coilover Conversion Shock Hoops
• 2x Limit Straps
• 2″ King Shocks “Shorty” Bump stops and Cans
• Deaver Q80 Springs, U-Bolts, and Bushings (please call for F-150 options)
• Bolt-on/weld-on rear bump stop mounts
• 4130 Chromoly Rear Shackle Pivots with Machined Spacers for the Deaver Q80 front spring hangers (please call for F-150 options)
• Extended Shackles with Delrin Bushings and Sleeves
• Bolt on Under-the-Bed Shock Mounts
• Stock Steering: Stage 5 Kit, without steering (works with stock steering)
• Swing Steering: Stage 5 Kit, including  Swing Steer Kit

Application

• 1980-1996 Ford Bronco
• 1980-1996 Ford F-150 (please call for more info)

Installation

• Installation by Solo Motorsports starting at $5500 – please  contact us  for more info.

Bronco/F150 Suspension Install Photos PDF  -  Click Here  -

This product fits the following vehicles:

Optional Upgrades

Single-Swing Steering / Ford Bronco & F-150

The Solo Motorsports heavy-duty Single Swing Steering for Ford Bronco and F-150 TTBs is a must for any serious prerunner and off-road vehicle.

Currie F9 9″ Rear Axle

Solo Motorsports is proud to offer complete Bronco and Toyota pre-runners and full race Currie 9″ rear ends.

Pre-runner Roll Cage / 1980-1996 Ford Bronco

This Weld-It-Yourself Ford Bronco Prerunner Cage features a 1.75″ DOM Full Interior Roll Cage with Roof Webbing and 1.25″ DOM Corner Gussets.

4-Link Rear Suspension Kit / Bronco

Solo Motorsports is proud to offer a W-I-Y Bronco Traditional 4-Link or Short-Course Style 4-Link Kit. Our traditional long travel four-link kit utilized “Canoe-style” lower links that are fully welded with water drain holes.

1965 - 1979 Ford F Twin-I-Beam 2 Wheel Drive Suspension

Suspension lifts and wheel travel kits for 1965 – 1979 Ford Twin-I-Beam two-wheel drive trucks.

1965-72 F100/150 2WD 2-Link

1973-79 F100/150 2WD 2-Link

2 1/2″ Leaf Spring Shackel 1″ Longer

2 1/2″ Leaf Spring Shackel

2 1/4″ Leaf Spring Shackel

1965-1979 F250/350 2WD Adjustable Drag Link

1965-1979 F100/150 2WD Drum Brake Adjustable Drag Link

1965-1979 F100/150 2WD Disc Brake Adjustable Drag Link

65-79 Extended Brake Lines

1965 – 1979 F250 Ford Truck 2 Wheel Drive 3″ or 5″ Lift Kits

1965 – 1974 Disc Brake Conversion

1965 – 1979 Ford 2 Wheel Drive Truck Equal Length Tie Rod Steering System

1965 – 1979 F100 / F150 2 Wheel Drive Wheel Travel Kit

1965 – 1979 F100 / F150 2 Wheel Drive Beams

1965 – 1979 F100 / 150 2wd Twin I Beam Front 5 inch lift kit

1965 – 1979 F100 / F150 2 Wheel Drive Truck 3 Inch Economy Lift

More from suspension kits.

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Maximizing Your Ford Ranger Suspension Travel

If you’re looking for information on wheel travel, suspension travel, ‘flex’, etc., this page is for you.

Front Beams/Brackets Beware Of Drop Brackets Equal Length Beams Camber Coil Springs Shocks/Mounts Coil-Overs Radius Arms 1983-1997 Ford Ranger Bolt On Kits Ranger A-Arm Rear Suspension 64-Inch Chevy Leaf Swap Bed Cages Web Links

Wheel Travel – Is the distance of vertical suspension movement measured at the hub centerline.

Why is it important?

Wheel travel can be an important factor depending on what type of off-roading you are doing;

Desert Racing & Pre-Running  – In high speed offroading such as desert racing, a lot of wheel travel combined with the proper shock valving will allow the suspension to cycle and absorb the bumps creating a more stable ride. If you’ve ever watched a SCORE desert truck racing across the desert, the truck looks like it’s running smooth across the desert and the suspension is doing all the work. The truck isn’t bouncing all over the place.

General Off-Road & Rock Crawling  –  In this situation you’ll hear people talking more in the terms of ‘flex’, but it’s basically the same thing.  As your vehicle is crawling over rocks or other trail obstacles, you want the tires to be able to drop far enough down from the vehicle to allow the tires to make contact with the surface. If the axle can’t droop and the tire is hanging in the air, it’s not going to be able to offer you any traction to help you continue forward. Of course, if you don’t have lockers to send power to all four wheels, then it’s not much good to you.

Above is a photo of my 1996 Ford Ranger 4×4 with a Skyjacker 6-Inch Class II suspension kit with extended radius arms. Notice how even though the truck looks fairly level, the axles at at some extreme angles, and the tires are making contact with the ground.  It’s important for all (4) tires to have contact with the ground for the vehicle to continue forward.  This was actually a steep snow covered climb. If I had not been able to keep all (4) tires on the ground, I might not have made it.

If you look at the photos below, you’ll see that it doesn’t take much to lift a tire off of the ground with a vehicle that has limited wheel travel.

The Ford Twin Traction Beam (TTB) and Twin I-Beam (TIB) Suspensions:

Many people refer to the front suspensions in 1983-1997 Ford Rangers as a TTB suspension. The fact is, that TTB refers to the 4×4 version and TIB refers to the 2WD version.

TTB/TIB suspensions can be built to provide a lot of wheel travel. Soft coil springs and the lever action provided by the beam make for a great off-road design. From the early 1980s to the mid 1990s, I-beam suspensions could be found on just about every successful race truck. Even today, most serious prerunners use some form of I-beam suspension for its durability, simplicity, and long wheel travel potential. I-beams do have their Achilles heel, though. With the long travel comes excessive amounts of camber and caster change throughout the suspension cycle. This can cause erratic handling if the steering linkages are not considered.

From 1966 to 1979 Ford used the longest equal-length I-beams of any year on its 2WD F-series trucks. These arms stretched all the way to the opposite framerails. The longer the beams are, the more travel that can be obtained. From 1980 to 1996 Ford used unequal-length I-beams, the driver side being longer. This allows the driver side to provide more travel than the passenger side with less camber change. Needless to say, this can cause some unique handling situations.

Rangers (and Bronco IIs) from 1983 to 1997 also enjoy the long travel benefits of I-beam suspension. Much like the 1980-1996 fullsizes, the Rangers have a longer beam on the driver side.

Modifying The Ford Ranger TTB/TIB Front Suspension:

When you look at the front suspension of a Ford Ranger, you have:

• Front Axle Beams/Mounting Brackets
• Coil Springs
• Radius Arms

These are the components that are going to influence how much wheel travel you achieve. Lets break it down part by part;

Front Beams/Brackets  – When lifting the suspension and looking for more wheel travel, you have the option of:

• Lowering the beams with suspension drop brackets to allow room for taller springs
• Having the beams bent to allow the mounting end of the beam to bend up towards the frame and bolt in to the factory mounts. This is stronger than using drop brackets, but bending the beam can also shorten it.
• Get specially manufactured beams that are bent and still maintain the correct widths.
• Get specially manufactured equal-length beams.

The method you choose will depend on your budget and intended use of the truck. While drop brackets may work fine on a trail truck, you’ll have a stronger setup using bent beams and the factory mounts blasting across the terrain at high speeds.

Bending the beams should be done by someone who has experience. An incorrect procedure can cause the beams to fail or make the vehicle impossible to align. One drawback of bending the beams is that the track width of the front end becomes narrower than stock. The radius arms need to be modified for proper caster or, better yet, replaced with longer pieces. This method of lifting affords more wheel travel and strength than the bracket kits.

The next option is production-built beams. The beams are usually made from chromemoly tubing or plate. Their design allows them to accommodate up to an 8-inch lift coil. Longer radius arms are required for these beams but all the components are bolt-on. Huge amounts of travel up to and beyond 15-inches is possible depending on the shock towers. The static track width that these beams provide is usually a few inches more than stock. When the suspension compresses, the track width will be several inches wider than stock. Fiberglass or trimmed fenders may be necessary to provide full use of the travel.

These Camburg 1983-1988 2WD Ford Ranger beams are 4-inches wider per side and are a coil-over application only.

These Camburg 1989-1997 2WD beams are 4.5-inches wider per side, have Heim Joint pivots, Billet CNC end pieces, and also come with billet steering extenders.

Bent beams aren’t just limited to 2WD’s.

These Camburg 4×4 beams are modified for off-road use. They are cut and turned for proper camber alignment. They will require porting for the axles to clear in use with long travel trucks. Designed to work with stock axles. Shown with optional uni-ball pivot.

These Solo Motorsports Dana 35 beam are 4-inches wider, trussed, cut and turned, and have uniball cups. 4×4 beams are also offered by Autofab.

If you establish long wheel travel with your TTB, the pass-through window for the axleshaft may need enlarged so it will clear the shaft in all positions of bump and droop travel.

Beware Of Drop Brackets:

This is one of those topics that I think is overlooked and needs mentioning. People will buy a cheap lift kit to save money, or piece together their own lift with used parts. I strongly suggest you stay away from lift kits or suspension brackets that use a drop plate for the passenger beam pivot bracket.

Here’s why:

Looking at the back side of this lift, you can see where the pivot bracket for the passenger side beam has been lowered by using a drop plate. If you look to the left, you can see where there is only 2-inches of space between the bracket and the front differential. There is a risk that upward suspension travel could cause the differential to strike the plate and bracket and break the differential housing.

The photo above shows lift kit brackets that use the drop plate method. The photo below shows heavy duty brackets that includes a complete replacement passenger beam pivot bracket.

Equal Length Beams  – We need to talk about equal length beams. What are equal length beams? If you remembered when we mentioned the 1966-1979 2WD Ford F-150 beams, we said that the longer the beams are, the more travel that can be obtained. With equal length beams, you don’t have to deal with one side (the driver side) being longer and providing more travel than the passenger side, causing the driver and passenger side beams to have different camber changes and causing unique handling situations.

Camber  – is the inward or outward tilt of the front tires as viewed from the front. Inward tilt is negative, outward tilt is positive. Camber is used to distribute load across the entire tread. Improper camber makes the tire wear on one edge, and causes the vehicle to pull to the side.

Above is a picture of what a lot of positive camber can look like with a lot of wheel travel. This photo is for example only before any adjustments were made.

It’s important to remember that your Ranger has unequal length drivers and passenger beams. That means that if you’re switching to equal length beams, you’re going to need new mounts (pivots) to mount the beams to the frame. You’ll also need a good crossover steering kit. It is highly recommended that you buy a complete system (beams, pivots, cross-over steering and radius arms) from a company such as Camburg or Giant Motorsports to ensure that it all works together.

These equal beams (above) are from Solo Motorsports.

Above are Camburg’s equal Length beams. Their kit comes with equal length beams, radius arms, beam pivot brackets, radius arm brackets with tranny X-Member, full steering kit with swings, all heims and hardware, billet aluminum hubs with hub centric dust cap, custom hollow snout spindles, Wilwood brake rotors, calipers, and pads, 9 degrees of camber adjustment, Pro-Am pinch bolt bungs, low un-sprung weight compared to other setups. No need for an outdated king pin setup with old junkyard parts and no ability to change you camber.

Coil Springs  – The coil springs will determine the ride height and it’s spring ratio will effect how it rides and handles. To much wheel travel can cause the spring to pop out of the upper spring mount (bucket). This is generally controlled by the use of a retainer, limiting strap and we’ve even seen the use of a tube in the middle of the upper mount to allow the spring to slide down so it can’t pop out.

Shocks/Mounts  – Shocks can be one of the biggest restrictors when it comes to wheel travel. Often a suspension can’t achieve its full droop because the shock has reached the end of its travel. Ranger owners have found ways to change the mounting locations of the shocks.

The shock mount above was available for a while from Skyjacker and allowed dual front shocks. If you look to the left of the coil you’ll see a pocket where the shock would have normally been mounted. This new mount bolted on and added a couple more inches of shock length.

From there, enthusiasts found that they could use an F-250 shock mount (above) buy cutting the original upper shock mount off of the coil bucket and mounting the F-250 shock mount next to it.

This has (2) advantages;

1) it allows room for a longer shock,

2) it allows for the use of a traditional upper EB1 bushing style shock instead of the Rangers stud type shock mount.

The Ford part number is E5TZ18183A.

Here is another custom configuration. The owner cut off the factory shock mount part of the coil bucket and reinforced it with a piece of metal plate. Then they created a new mount and welded it to the top of the coil bucket. The shock should mount to the rear of the spring, not the front. The farther along the radius arm the shock is mounted, the farther the shock will have to travel up and down.

This shock mount is an old Fabtech unit. Unfortunately, Fabtech stopped making products for the 1983-1997 Rangers. Again, this raised the shock mount to allow for a longer shock and did away with the stud style upper shock mount.

Above is a Autofab wheel travel kit. The custom made coil buckets are much stronger than stock. It has a tall hoop structure so the front shock can be a 14-inch travel shock. Here is the secret of the wheel travel. Get a long enough of a shock in there to stroke for all that travel. The rear shock mount is different because that shock is further back on the radius arm and does not stroke the same amount. Remember, the farther out from the radius arm mount (at the frame) you mount the shock, the farther it is going to have to travel (shock stroke).

If you have followed along in the progression of these photos, you’ll see that as the desire for wheel travel increases, the upper shock mount heights increase as well.

Coil-Overs  – Yes, we didn’t have coil-overs in the list above, but if you’re pretty off-road savvy, by now your thinking to yourself, “what about coil-overs?”

This setup is made by Camburg and replaces your coil spring with a coil-over. Coil-overs have always been considered pricey, but are becoming more and more popular in serious off-road vehicles.

Longer Radius Arms  – Almost any serious off-road Ranger you see now a days has a set of extended (longer) radius arms. The longer radius arms increase wheel travel (up to 30%)  and help keep caster change to a minimum during suspension cycling. They also help triangulate and strengthen the suspension assembly.

Above is a Skyjacker extended radius arm compared to a stock radius arm. Both arms use a bushing mount at the rear of the arm to mount it to a bracket on the frame rail.

These Radius arms are from Camburg (above) and Autofab (below) and use Heim Joints instead of a bushing mount at the frame rail.

The advantages to Heims over bushings is that the bushings can bind and wear out and the Heims offer freer movement.

1983-1997 Ford Ranger 4×4 Bolt On Kits:

If you’re looking for a bolt on suspension kit to provide you with more lift and suspension travel, you’ll want one with longer radius arms.

I would recommend:

James Duff 5-6 Inch Stage 3 Suspension Kit

This kit includes:

• 5-6” Progressive Rate Coil Springs*
• New Coil Tower Dual Shock mounts
• Rod Ended Extended Radius Arms
• HD Tranny Crossmember
• Extended Stainless Brake lines
• Drop pitman arm (fits PS only)
• Axle pivot drop brackets
• 4 front shocks, 2 rear shocks, 6 shock boots
• Urethane coil pads, leveling spacer
• Complete Replacement Leaf Spring Packs
• Spring Eye Bushings

Skyjacker Class II 6-Inch Suspension Kit

• Heavy duty suspension brackets
• Transmission mount crossmember
• Replacement rear leaf springs & u-bolts
• 6-inch lift front coil springs
• Extended radius arms and brackets
• Dropped pitman arm
• Longer sway bar links

Autofab Model 35 Wheel Travel Kit

This kit provides 16-inches of wheel travel. Features custom coil spring buckets and shock hoop structures. Specialty Pivot brackets duplicating Ford Factory 2-inch lift on Ranger STX Hirider trucks. This allows the middle U-joint to operate to achieve 16″ wheel travel. A drop pitman arm is required. Beams are cut and turned for alignment correction of 4-inch lift. Special Autofab radius arms correct the castor alignment and allow for more droop and wheel travel.

For more information about ‘ cut and turn ‘, click HERE

Giant Motorsports Dana 44 TTB Conversion Kit

Want to go all out and upgrade to a Dana 44? Get the Giant Motorsports Dana 44 TTB conversion kit. This easy to bolt on kit allows for added strength, a 5-inch lift, up to 18-inches of controlled wheel travel, and widens the track width to 80 inches (depending on wheel off set). The passenger side beam pivot is designed stronger then most, that spans across to grab both frame rails so you will need the trim the lip on back parts of the cross member to bolt up the new mount.

1998-2009 Ford Ranger Short Arm / Long Arm (SLA) Suspensions:

The 1998 and newer Ford Rangers have two different types of SLA front suspension;

• The 1998-2009 Ford Ranger 2WD uses a coil spring SLA front suspension.
• The 1998-2009 Ford Ranger 4×4 has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.
•  The 2001-2005 Ford Ranger 2WD Edge has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.
• The 2006-2009 Ford Ranger 2WD Sport has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.

Note  – The Edge appeared in 2001 and offered a 2WD Ranger that had the ride height of a 4×4 Ranger. In 2006, Ford switched from using the Edge name to using ‘Sport’. In 2007, ‘Edge’ became a vehicle all in itself as a Ford midsize crossover SUV.

What are Torsion bars ? Torsion bars use the twisting properties of a steel bar to provide coil-spring-like performance.

This is how they work: One end of a bar is anchored to the vehicle frame. The other end is attached to a wishbone, which acts like a lever that moves perpendicular to the torsion bar. When the wheel hits a bump, vertical motion is transferred to the wishbone and then, through the levering action, to the torsion bar. The torsion bar then twists along its axis to provide the spring force.

The coil spring SLA suspension right height is effected by:

• Upper Control Arm / Lower control Arm
• Coil Spring

Company’s making long travel kits for SLA Rangers do so by replacing the upper and lower arms, coil spring or torsion bar, spindle, upper shock mount and adding steering tie-rod extensions.

This Camburg 2WD kit uses tubular Heim pivot upper arms, lower boxed arms, CNC and boxed spindle, all heims and uni-balls with spacers and steering extensions.

Most long-travel A-arm kits widen the front suspension 4-5 inches at each side and replace the 2WD coil springs or 4×4 torsion bars with a coilover shock. There are some middle of the road kits that use a new coil spring for the 2WD trucks.

It is possible to get a long wheel travel kit for a 1998 and newer 4×4 Ranger. Dixon Bros. offers a kit for the A-arm suspension that also includes complete front axles with custom length heat treated shafts and high angle 930 CVs.

Increasing Wheel Travel In The Rear Suspension – 1983-2009:

There are (2) ways that enthusiast use to create a lot of wheel travel in the rear end.

1) 64-Inch Chevy Leaf Swap  – The first is the Chevy 64-inch leaf spring and flipped shackle conversion. Flipping the shackles is when you remove the rivets on the stock shackle hanger of the rear leaf springs and re-installing it upside-down. This allows a better spring progression, and lowers the center of gravity. Replacement springs such as Deaver, are designed to work with a flipped shackle.

Here’s a general idea of how you add the longer 64-inch spring:

The front mount is move forward so the bottom left hole of the bracket is relocated into the bottom right hole in the frame.

The rear hanger was flipped over and in this case a 7-inch shackle was used. Flipping the rear shackles lets the rear suspension dive deeper into bump travel without going into a negative arc. In addition to using 64-inch leaf springs from a Chevy, Deaver Spring offers several different leaf-spring options for the Ranger.

Above is a photo of a Camburg shackle with a Deaver spring.

Note – Whenever you do a conversion like this, you’re going to run in to clearance issues with the bed. Desert trucks and most prerunners remove the bed and use fiberglass bedsides. If you’re using your bed, you’ll likely need to cut a section of the bed out for clearance.

2) The second option for a long travel rear suspension is a 3-link or 4-link rear.

This Camburg 3-link system is a must if you want to really haul through the desert! This system is bolt on and comes complete with all Heims, stainless spacers, and hardware. This system utilizes full boxed lower links where the shocks mount as low as possible to gain around 4-inches of ground clearance over other boxed links on the market today.

Good long travel rear suspensions use a bed cage that mounts to the frame rails and offers a mounting point for shocks. This allows you to mount shocks that are long enough to let you get all the wheel travel available.

The cage above is from Camburg. The one below is from Dixon Bros.

Rear Link Kits:

For maximum rear wheeltravel, Camburg also offers a rear 3-link kit.

• 48-inch Lower Trailing Arms
• Upper 3-link Wishbone
• Upper & Lower Link Mounts
• Carrier Bearing X-member
• FK 1.00 inch Uniballs
• Stainless Steel Mis-alignment Spacers
• Grade 9 Hardware

Giant Motorsports offers a rear link kit as well.

This new link design dramatically cuts the cost of linking your truck by eliminating the upper link arm – allowing you to keep the stock frame, axle, bed, and gas tank. This kit allows up to 26-inches of travel.

Miscellaneous:

Sway Bars – Sway bars when disconnected will add another inch of travel on basic suspensions and need to be removed for long wheel travel suspensions.

Brake Lines – You will need to lengthen brake lines when increasing suspension travel.  Some people have ran hard lines down the radius arms to a rubber line connecting it to a hard line on the frame.  This places the brake lines in a position with the least amount of travel.

Limiting Straps & Bump Stops – Consider using limiting straps to prevent your suspension from pulling your shocks apart and bump stops to keep your tires from coming through your fenders.  Finally, check your axles and drive-shafts to ensure they aren’t going to pull apart.

Blitzkrieg Motorsports

Dixon Bros.

Fabtech Motorsports

Giant Motorsports

Solo Motorsports

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1/10 Twin I-Beam 2WD Pre-Runner Suspension Conversion Kit SCX10 I/II

Selected Store

Product details, key features.

• Highly detailed, durable, scale-looking molded I-Beam Arms, Radius Arms and Trailing Arms
• True-swing set Steering Using Stainless Steel Links and Pivot Balls
• New Front Shock Tower with Dual Shock Mounting Options for Added Adjustability and Versatility
• Trailing Arms with Adjustable Wheelbase
• Box contains all parts needed to convert the SCX10 I/II to a 2WD I-Beam Suspension Pre-Runner

Needed to Complete

• Axial® SCX10™ I/II Kit with electronics or RTR
• Tools: 1.5mm / 2.0mm hex driver, 5.5mm nut driver, 7mm nut driver / wheel nut wrench, Needle-nose pliers, Flush cutters

Quick Links

Product downloads, instruction manual.

Transform your SCX10™ I/II into a 2WD Desert Truck with Pro-Line's Twin I-Beam Pre-Runner Suspension Kit! In the early days of offroad desert racing, I-Beam trucks became the standard suspension setup due to their uncompromised durability, easily attained long-travel and overall simplicity. Now, you can capture that desert racing spirit using your SCX10™ I/II kit as a base to build a 1/10 scale pre-runner.

The Twin I-Beam front suspension consists of two long "I-beam" arms that cross one another in an X-pattern. These arms control the lateral forces applied to the wheels, while radius arms reach backward toward the center skid plate to stabilize each wheel in the fore-aft direction. This super-scale conversion kit utilizes the same geometry setup as 1:1 trucks with true swingset steering and center-mount radius arms to optimize handling throughout the entire suspension travel.

The I-Beam conversion kit includes everything you need to easily convert your rig and completely change the driving experience of your SCX10™. Stainless steel links and steel pivot balls provide dependable endurance, while the new battery tray moves the battery to the rear of the vehicle for optimal weight bias and performance. The new front shock tower features holes for dual shock mounting, and the new rear trailing arms have 3 wheelbase options for added adjustability and versatility.

Get ready to hit the open desert trails with the Pro-Line I-Beam Pre-Runner Conversion!

Please note: Main Chassis components and Electronics are not included.

PRO638500 | Twin I-Beam 2WD Pre-Runner Suspension Conversion Kit for SCX10™ I & II

• Improved Stability and Optimized Handling
• Rear-mounted Battery Tray for Optimal Weight Distribution and Performance
• Capture the Desert Racing Spirit and Breathe New Life into your SCX10™
• Includes plastics and hardware needed to Completely Transform the Axial® SCX10™ I/II to a 2WD Twin I-Beam Pre-Runner

SCALE-LOOKING I-BEAM ARMS

Highly detailed, durable, scale-looking molded I-Beam Arms, Radius Arms, and Trailing Arms allow for simple, long travel suspension

SWING SET STEERING

True-Swing Set Steering using stainless steel links and pivot balls optimizes handling

REDESIGNED SHOCK TOWER

New front Shock Tower allows for dual shock mounting options

ADJUSTABLE WHEELBASE

Trailing arms with 3 adjustable wheelbase locations and rear-mounted battery tray for weight distribution

• SCX10™ I & II ( AXI03025 , AXI90104, AX90059)

Recommended Parts

Pro-Line recommends the following parts to complete your conversion. These parts are not required, but highly recommended for both scale looks & performance:

• 2015 Chevy® Silverado™ Body ( PRO360100 )
• Big Bore Scaler Shocks, 3 pairs ( PRO634300 )
• Scale 1.9" Tires from 4.3" - 4.8" tall
• Toyo® Open Country R/T ( PRO1021114 )
• Toyo® Open Country R/T Trail ( PRO1022614 )
• BFGoodrich® KO2 ( PRO1012414 )
• BFGoodrich® KM3 ( PRO1015014 )
• Dual Stage 1.9" Foam Inserts ( PRO617400 )
• Spektrum Firma 85A ESC / 3300Kv Brushless Motor Combo (SPMXSEMC01)
• Spektrum 3S Lipo ( SPMX53S30H5 or SPMX53S50H3)
• Any aftermarket open rear differential will highly increase rear traction

Product Specs

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Horizon Hobby RC Club:

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Blitzkrieg Offroad is your go-to source for high-quality off-road parts and accessories. We offer a wide selection of products from top manufacturers, competitive pricing, and exceptional customer service. Shop with us for all of your off-road needs and experience the Blitzkrieg difference.

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• Bolt in Bed Cage
• Bronco Parts
• Bronco Under the bed "link Killer"
• Radius Arms
• 4 Links Kits
• 4-Link Pivots
• Toyota I-Beam
• 4 Wheel Drive Beam Kit
• Equal Length Beam Pivots
• F-150 I-Beam Kit
• C10 I-Beam Conversion Kit
• Ranger I-Beam Kits
• Super Duty EQ Beam Kit
• 91-01 Explore Rear Kits
• 62″ Long Travel Leaf Spring Kit
• 64″ Long Travel Leaf Spring Kit
• Complete Axles
• Engine Cage
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• Weld it and do it yourself parts
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Category: F-150 I-Beam Kit

The equal length F-150 kit come with: Beams 84”-92” to the out side of the tires that holds a Dana 44 spindle, Radius Arms, bolt on frame mounts.

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Bronco | F-150 I-Beam Kit

The equal length F-150 kit comes with: Beams 84”-92” to the outside of the tires that hold a Dana 44 spindle, Radius Arms, bolt on frame mounts. [embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9GZB_AoyPA[/embedyt]

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Desolate Motorsports Level 4 TTB (Extended Width)

$ 3,720.00

This Extended Width TTB includes all work from previous levels with the addition of extending the beams for a wider track width.

Note: A $500 core charge for beams is required for any customers who are not supplying a core. Product will ship once we receive your core.

Description

Additional information.

We offer 4 different levels when it comes to a modified TTB on your Bronco or 4×4 F150. On the Extended Width TTB we begin with the same camber correction done on previous levels and the added plating with 1″ uniball pivots. In addition to the work done from previous levels, the beams are extended 3-5” wider per side and a full length truss is welded in across the driver side beam. We also open up the window on the passenger beam to prevent the axle shaft from contacting the beam at full articulation. This service is recommended for Broncos and 4×4 F150s with increased wheel travel looking for better articulation and wider track width with .

Note: Order any Beam Package and Radius Arms at the same time and we will weld on radius arm mounts in house at no extra charge.

• Corrects camber on raised Broncos and 4×4 F150s
• Plating and gussets for reinforcement
• Better articulation
• Increases track width

What’s Included:

• Extended Driver Beam (1)
• Extended Passenger Beam (1)
• Extended Inner Axle Shafts (Pair)
• FK 1″ Uniballs (Pair)
• C-Clips (Pair)

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