conde nast traveller palermo

Review: Villa Igiea, a Rocco Forte Hotel, Palermo

Reviewed by Erin Florio

This resort on the edge of Palermo is simply magnificent – the only place in town where you want to unpack your bags and stay a good long while, not just for all the delights of Palermo, but for the sophisticated pool scene, cocktail terrace and exceptional cuisine.

Set the scene

This reborn former palatial resort feels every bit as glamorous now as it must have back when the wealthy Florio family owned it. Raw woods, loads of marble, Art Nouveau touches, plus sharp and comfortable rooms. The sweeping cocktail terrace may be one of the most special spaces in all of greater Palermo. At night it comes alive with all the characters that this resort attracts. As a piano man tinkers in the corner, tables of Europeans switching effortlessly between languages and wearing outfits that seem intentionally packed for cocktail hour sip martinis and nibble olives. The scene is so bewitching, you feel you have truly stepped into a new world.

The backstory

The Florio’s were once the second-richest family in all of Italy and bought this property to turn it into a wellness retreat, but soon pivoted to opening a hotel. In the early 1900s, European royalty and more graced its frescoed hallways. It then became a cinematic backdrop, used by de Sica and Sordi. Over time, the charm faded as the crowds moved on. It took the skill, care, and consideration of Rocco Forte to revive Villa Igiea to its former splendour. The hotelier took it over in 2019 and opened it two years later, creating new uses for formerly neglected spaces and guessing up the interiors to feel modern and clean, but without doing away with any of the timeless glamour that makes it so exciting.

The rooms are where you will feel the modern touch of Olga Polizzi, Rocco’s sister and his portfolio’s top designer, the most. They are clean with a slight nautical theme (lots of navy and white, etc.) but crisp and classic; not kitsch at all. Rattan chandeliers keep a casual edge while brass-rimmed mirrors channel the resort’s Belle Epoque origins. I had a sea-facing suite, and my bathroom had delightful red, white, and green tiles and clawfoot tub. A well-stocked minibar with local wines, as well as a top-notch espresso machine, make the room a lovely place to have your first – or last – drink of the day, especially with those sea-facing windows wide open.

Food and drink

That terrace cocktail bar will be what I recall the most vividly. What a scene. So classy and sophisticated, refreshingly so in a world where openings are increasingly targeting the younger, more hip urban millennial scene. The people watching alone made it fabulous. Though the bar is so chic, with its stone ceiling and back-lit liquor shelves, manned by mixologists in sharp white jackets and long ties, you could be forgiven for praying for rain just so you’d be obligated to stay inside at least once. What you want to do is order a classic martini with nibbles at the bar, then breeze over to the hotel’s superb Florio restaurant. The indoor dining room is a profusion of tightly set tables, large potted plants, and pops of green; it recalls the Sirenuse restaurant at the Four Seasons in Miami. The space is lovely, but again, you really want to be on the outdoor terrace if possible, to eat the restaurant’s high-end pastas like tonnarelli with raw red prawns and fresh vegetable dishes like courgettes with parmesan.

The Irene Forte spa features the eponymous skincare line that Irene, one of Rocco’s two daughters, has created using botanicals from the family’s Verdura Resort’s farm, farther south in Sicily. The spa wasn’t open when I was there, but I am familiar with Irene’s skincare line and her approach to wellness, which is holistic and organic. I would absolutely book myself into one of the spa’s four treatment rooms for a Forte facial or Sicilian Aroma massage.

The neighbourhood

The hotel is located along the coast, about a 15-minute drive from central Palermo, which you can see across the bay. A private boat can ferry guests to and from the city and resort. The neighbourhood around the resort is suburban; you could walk to a supermarket should you want to, but for the most part, once you are at the resort you would not really want to leave unless going into the centre of the city.

The service

White gloved and excellent, which feels appropriate for the style of resort. Not a contactless check-in in sight, which I loved.

For families

With its pool and tennis courts, this place is comfortable for families.

Anything left to mention?

This resort is so timeless and elegant that you almost feel nostalgic for a Sicily that never even existed during your lifetime.

By CNT Editors and Betsy Blumenthal

• Rooms & Suites
• Experiences

Book your stay

Additional info

Hotel, Resort & Villas

• Hotel de Russie
• Hotel de la Ville
• Rocco Forte House
• Hotel Savoy
• Villa Igiea
• Verdura Resort
• Rocco Forte Private Villas
• Masseria Torre Maizza
• Hotel Amigo

United Kingdom

• The Balmoral
• Brown's Hotel
• The Charles Hotel
• Hotel de Rome

St Petersburg

• Hotel Astoria

Future Openings

• Costa Smeralda, Sardinia
• The Carlton, Milan
• Palazzo Sirignano, Naples

Restaurant & Bars

• Le Jardin de Russie
• Stravinskij Bar
• Cielo Terrace

Florio Restaurant

Igiea terrazza bar.

• Alicetta Bistro
• Bougainvillea
• Ristorante BoCConi
• Bar Magritte
• Brasserie Prince
• Charlie's
• Donovan Bar
• The Drawing Room
• Sophia's
• Sophia's Bar
• The Rooftop Terrace

St. Petersburg

• Astoria Restaurant
• Lichfield Bar

A Fabled 19th Century Palazzo

Discover history, majesty and serenity at Villa Igiea: a turn-of-the-century palazzo at the perimeter of vivid Palermo, the foot of Mount Pellegrino and the Gulf of Palermo. A long-loved seaside-meets-city sanctuary for royalty, dignitaries and Hollywood luminaries, trace their paths through tiered villa gardens that sweep down to the port and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea; on excursions to Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and ancient sites, or yacht trips along its picturesque coast; and through Villa Igiea’s Italian restaurants, atmospheric bars and palatial Art Nouveau interior, revitalised as a Rocco Forte hotel.

TRIPADVISOR TRAVELERS’ CHOICE AWARD 2024 - Villa Igiea

Condè Nast Traveler's Gold List 2023 - Villa Igiea

READERS' CHOICE #4 BEST HOTEL IN ITALY - Villa Igiea

"there won’t be anything comparably fabulous in the Sicilian capital"

"This palatial grand dame has a glamorous history and now it’s been restored to its former glory"

Accommodation

Forte suites.

Furnished with classic antiques and sumptuous fabrics in serene shades, each of the suites is fresh, light and inherently Sicilian. Book a Forte Suite and enjoy enhanced benefits across our three suite categories, with our compliments, from in-suite check-in and complimentary breakfast to a personalised suite experience.

Balmy sea breezes sweep in from the azure Gulf, a refreshing reminder of the villa’s island location.

Family Rooms & Suites

Wake up with your loved ones in the fresh surrounds of one of our Family rooms or Suites. Children can delight in the striking sea views of the azure Gulf while parents enjoy guaranteed relaxation and rejuvenation with sumptuous king-sized beds and exquisite Carrara marble bathrooms replete with handmade Sicilian floor tiles

Designed by Olga Polizzi in collaboration with Paolo Moschino of Nicholas Haslam Studios, Villa Igiea’s rooms blend period features with contemporary flair to exquisite effect.

Restaurants & Bars

Travel through time to the peak of the Belle Époque in Palermo, where the Florio family’s most distinguished guests would have dined in this original Louis XVI hall.  

Discover the true meaning of aperitivo hour in Villa Igiea’s elegant sandstone vaults, and uncover the widest selection of Florio liqueurs.

One of Palermo’s most renowned al fresco venues, the Alicetta Pool Bar is enclosed in a pretty metal pavilion modelled on the same design as the pavilion of the Palazzo Butera in Palermo.

Highlights & Offers

Spring in palermo.

Make the most of Sicily’s mild springtime weather and discover Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and cathedrals. Perched high on a limestone rock, Villa Igiea is surrounded by waters dotted with yachts.

Forte Suite Experiences

Welcome to a world of understated elegance and authentic Italian splendour. Our Forte Suites open the doors to extraordinary experiences, each tailored to immerse our guests in the unique charm of their destination.

Experiences & Activities

Discover incredible things to do at Villa Igiea, in Palermo and its surrounding area, then let our expert Concierge team tailor each experience to surpass your wildest expectations.

A Theatrical Partnership

Explore Teatro Massimo’s exciting cultural calendar, from enlightening exhibitions and architectural insights to emotive operas. Join Villa Igiea for inspiring cultural experiences. We’ll take you to Palermo’s magnificent theatre for a night of unforgettable theatre.

Rocco Forte Kids

Our Rocco Forte Kids programme ensures younger guests will be just as pampered as the grown-ups. We welcome children of all ages – our programme is tailored for babies (ages 0-3), kids (ages 4-12) and teens (ages 13-16).

The Story of Fulvio Pierangelini

“Simplicity is the point of arrival. This has been at the heart of my mission for over 40 years.”

Since joining the team in 2009, Fulvio Pierangelini, Creative Director of Food for Rocco Forte Hotels has transformed the culinary offering, creating innovating traditional Italian menus and sensational dishes using the simplest ingredients.  

Irene Forte Spa

Inspired by the Mediterranean, Irene Forte Spa merges Sicilian design with multi-sensory healing techniques and signature treatments for a truly restorative, transformative experience.

Meetings & Events

Frequented by royalty, dignitaries and Hollywood luminaries, Villa Igiea’s palatial interiors create a striking blank canvas to host the most sensational events.  

From our Journal

Your Grand Tour of Italy Awaits

Retrace the path taken by inquisitive explorers and broad-minded travellers in the 18th and 19th centuries on your own modern day grand tour of Italy.

Choose our hotels in Rome, Florence and Sicily, and our new hotel opening in Milan in 2023, and add comfort to your cultural journe

Instagram @villaigieapalermo

Discover history, majesty and serenity at Villa Igiea: a turn-of-the-century palazzo at the perimeter of vivid Palermo, the foot of Mount Pellegrino and the Gulf of Palermo.

Phone Number

1. personal data, 2. events details, 3. past events.

Have you held event with us before?*

Do you need accomodation for all or some of your guests?*

• Destinations
• Hotels & Homestays
• Food & Drink
• People & Culture
• Mindful Travel
• Readers' Travel Awards
• Escape to Rajasthan
• READERS TRAVEL AWARDS
• #LOVEGREATBRITAIN
• TAJ SAFARIS
• BOUTIQUE HOTELS
• CNT TOP RESTAURANT AWARDS
• DESTINATION WEDDING GUIDE
• DON’T TRAVEL WITHOUT IT
• #UNDISCOVERAUSTRALIA
• ESSENTIALLY RAJASTHAN

The best things to do in Sicily

By Rosalyn Wikeley

If there were a place that could so potently exhibit the indelible effect of architecture, community spirit, food and phenomenal landscapes on humans, it would be Sicily. The island’s vulnerable position cast adrift from mainland Italy as the largest island in the Mediterranean saw it caught in the crosshairs of civilisations throughout the centuries. These days, it's a fiercely unique melting pot identity that has cooled and consolidated, like Etna’s lava flows over time. Conquered, invaded, coerced – the layers of history are manifest throughout the island, from the Norman Palace of Palermo to the North African-influenced spiced couscous and chickpea dishes of Trapani. Ancient temples and crumbling palazzos sit alongside innovative agriturismos and vineyards, stoic in the shadow of Mount Etna. On its fringes, volcanic islands gurgle and spit, their fertile slopes ablaze with wildflowers, capers and Malvasia grapes. The Sicilian spirit is not one easily bottled – it’s complex, proud and afflicted. But to live like a Sicilian is to live well, prioritising food and family above all else, starting the day on a sweet note with brioche con tuppo or granita; whiling away afternoons on sun-bleached concrete before plunging into turquoise water; scurrying under the watchful gaze of Baroque cathedrals for endless joshing and jousting in markets.

So rather than simply beelining for Taormina’s tourist-choked White Lotus filming spots, why not venture into this island’s rugged, ever-contradictory soul? Take in the beauty of its beaches, the mystical presence of Etna, ever looming, and inordinate amounts of morish, sweet ricotta-filled cannoli. These are the best things to do in Sicily for the ultimate Italian island experience.

What is Sicily best known for?

Knockout beaches that inspired Homer’s Odyssey , crumbling, honey-hued palazzos, mafia lore and ancient temples – Sicily effortlessly blends a sunny Mediterranean escape with lashings of history, culture and life-changing food. Etna has an almost sacred hold, dominating the scenery and treating al-fresco diners to the occasional fiery belch (best viewed from Taormina). The island’s southeastern Baroque towns bear the architectural stamps of a prosperous age, where soaring cathedrals and churches display jewel-box interiors, and grand palazzos have wrinkled with age, baked in the sun. Sicily’s cuisine shifts as you move around the island, revealing the influence of various invaders and traders, and it's famed for its caponata (a sort of aubergine ratatouille), busiate alla norma (an aubergine and ricotta pasta dish), and granita con brioche (sweet ice mopped up with a large brioche bun for breakfast).

How many days in Sicily is enough?

The beauty of the island is that so much can be covered in a short space of time. To even scratch the surface of the Southeast Baroque towns, you’ll need at least three days and can fill the rest of the week with downtime along one of Toarmina’s beaches or wine tasting and hiking along Etna’s slopes. Two weeks is enough for Sicily’s spell to fully take hold, landing in Palermo and moving southeast along the coast via Scopello and south to Agrigento for the temples and then to the Baroque South East. Spend time in the pretty, prairie-like fringes of Noto before edging up towards Etna and, if time permits, hop on a hydrofoil to the volcanic Aeolians, where the sea glows a shade of blue that feels too exotic for Europe.

The Baroque towns

There are eight towns in Southeast Sicily strung together like pretty beads to form the UNESCO World Heritage Site, but four of them should feature on any itinerary to this amber-hued maze.

Noto is an opulent haze of honey-hued walls, all belittled by the pillared-and-pompous cathedral that sits atop a series of steps like a Baroque jewel. Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the orderly artery street amid a chaotic labyrinth beyond it, where coffee lovers make their Sicilian pilgrimage to the legendary Caffè Sicilia (open since 1892).

Shikha Tripathi

Arundhati Ail

Aatish Nath

Amid all its hilly, Baroque glory, Modica is all about chocolate. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto along Corso Umberto is Sicily’s oldest chocolate factory – the chocolate here is dark, richly flavoured and crumbly rather than smooth.

Scicli feels like a Noto or Modica shrunk in the wash – quieter, fewer tourists, stricter siesta code – though its bejewelled palazzos still whisper tales of a thumping prosperous age, their windows’ stucco brows crumbling, their facades mottled with age. Beneath them lie little cannoli boutiques, pocket-sized antique shops and film locations for Inspector Montalbano.

Ragusa Ibla runs with the Baroque theme but feels closer to scenes from a Hans Anderson tale, with pastel-pink houses, little Sicilian puppet theatres, wooden toy shops and misty views over the Hyblaean mountains from the old town’s swirly, wrought iron balconies.

Sicily’s beaches can baffle tourists expecting endless stretches of bone-white sand. They are more than often flanked by great hunks of warm concrete, pebbly, rocky and where sandy, smothered in those retro, rickety sun loungers you thought were confined to the ’70s. While occasionally insufferably hot during summer’s peak, dotted across 930 miles of coastline, Sicily’s beaches are positively lovely from spring to late autumn. The Sicilian way is to lie, like seals, sprawled along the rocks with a towel and a cold beer before descending abruptly into intense shades of blue. Scopello wins most beach beauty contests, with its dusty pink inn blinking over a calm bay through lace and weathered shutters. Scala dei Turchi (the ‘Turkish steps’) is more of a geological head-turner, with its rippled formation and moonscape appeal, as are the Aeolian and Aegean Islands’ beaches, mostly pebbled or framing the impossibly blue plunge spots with jagged rock. For something softer, Sampiere off the Baroque, South East coast, or Lungomare di Cefalù an hour from Palermo, are all blonde sands, icy Coca-Cola bottles and creamy gelato.

Etna has a magnetic hold over Sicilians, her fertile slopes combed with vines, orchards and crops, and her menacing gaze from up high (some 11,000 feet), bearing down on the minutiae of everyday Sicilian life. It’s easy to associate Etna solely with hiking its lunar-like slopes (hire a guide from Rifugio Sapienza on its southern side) for lava flows and the thrill of climbing a dormant dragon, but Etna is vast and can constitute a full holiday in itself. Most of the hotels dotting its slopes are surrounded by vineyards and showcase trailblazing cooking and the bounty of the volcanic soil. These include Zash Country Boutique Hotel and Spa , a reimagined Palmento smothered in citrus trees and Monaci delle Terre Nere , whose farm-to-table ethos was well before its time. The 18th-century aristocratic villa (once a monastery) also offers scenic horse rides through the foothills of Mount Etna. For more of a guesthouse stay, Palazzo Previtera retains the gloriously unkempt charm of an aristocratic Mediterranean pile, where swirly wrought iron beds and wild, colourful gardens stave off the ubiquitous interior design team gloss, and a member of the Previtera family still greets you at the door.

Long before Netflix showcased its good looks to the world in The White Lotus , Taormina was a magnet for poets, filmstars and the aristocracy (a key Grand Tour destination). Its surreal position – perched high on a cliff above the eastern coastline – makes views from almost any spot, balcony, window, heart-thumping ones. Corso Umberto I thrums with boutiques, gelaterias and cafes stretching out in the sunshine, from its medieval Porta Messina city gate to the Cathedral, while few visit Taormina without a glimpse of its famous second-century Greek amphitheatre. Just below it, layered in pretty terraces and manicured gardens down the hillside is Belmond Hotel Grand Timeo – all glowy lanterns, smooth balustrade terraces and Grand Touree lore. Edge down to its sister hotel, Belmond Villa San’t Andrea , for a country club-style beach set-up and twinkling views of Naxos Bay. Connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of buttermilk sand just off Lido Mazzaro, Isola Bella is worth visiting for its pretty hilltop villa and, with a snorkel, for its marine park.

By far one of Europe’s most underrated cities, Palermo bears the architectural and cultural scars from centuries of rampant invasion and occupation. Rowdy markets have gripped onto the island’s Moorish influences (Mercato del Capo being the most authentic), the gilded and grandiose Teatro Massimo harks back to Palermo’s most prosperous chapter, and almost every street corner has a mafia tale to tell (take the three-hour Palermo No Mafia walking tour). Artisanal, electric energy has occupied the grand bones of this intoxicating city, with young creatives animating the unbuttoned cafes and bars filling its old town’s squares – the air always hot and heavy with wafts of arancini and courgette fritti.

Valley of the Temples

On the fringes of Agrigento lies the world’s largest archaeological park, all arid and sun-baked and home to eight beautifully preserved ancient Greek temples. The main act here is the Temple of Concordia – remarkably well-preserved Greek ruins on what was once the Greek city of Akragas some 2,500 years ago. Wandering through this UNESCO World Heritage Site and absorbing its rich history amid the absurdly bright blue ring of the Mediterranean in the distance, takes around three to four hours. Bring water, a sun hat and, if you’re wanting to avoid the crowds and searing heat, and you can be in Azienda Agricola Mandranova’s pool by 3pm, or even in time for lunch under the olive trees.

The Aeolian Islands – stay on Salina, Filicudi and Alicudi

These evocative, volcanic islands, cast adrift off the northeast coast of Sicily, remain salted, fresh and gloriously dishevelled. Lava houses gaze over the Tyrannean’s other-worldly blue, Stromboli lights up the sky at night with a theatrical spurt of lava and mud baths and thermal waters spit, ooze and stew both locals and visitors, giddy on Malvasia wine. From Salina’s wild caper profusion and old-world hotels (such as Hotel Signum) to shy, introverted Alicudi’s mule tracks, flanked by canary-yellow flowers and snaking down to inky-blue water, the Aeolians share a unique castaway character, chiselled by the elements and swaying to the rhythms of the tide.

Private Palazzos – Lampadusa

Sicily’s abundance of palazzos harks back to a gilded age when the city was conquered by the Spanish and lavished with baroque architecture. While imposing from the outside, their magnificent jewel-box innards are worth a browse – a superb, rather opulent retreat from the midday sun. While many have decayed, some have been lovingly restored, such as Palermo’s Neo-Gothic Palazzo Alliata di Pietratagliata, which has remained in the same family since the 15th century. Catania’s Palazzo Biscari (a bastion of Rococo glory) occupies an entire block of the volcanic-stone city and is still occupied by descendants of the Biscari family. Its stuccos, frescoes and sweeping ballroom can be viewed through a narrow window in the morning.

Catania – offbeat boutiques, cool foodie scene

In the shadow of Mount Etna and brushing up against the Ionian Sea, Sicily’s second-largest city was grandly rebuilt in imposing Baroque style using lava stone following a devastating 17th-century earthquake. As such, the city takes on its own distinctively sooty, nonconformist character. You won’t find the fairytale museums of Ragusa Ibla or the blonde beaches of Cefalù here; Catania is proudly dishevelled, scruffy amid all the faded Baroque splendour and a goldmine of street food, hole-in-the-wall bistros and under-the-radar artists and makers. For the chaotic essence of Catania, head (at the crack of dawn) to its 19th-century fish market under the Archi della Marina. If on the hunt for independent makers, visit Magda Masao’s concept store, a third-generation artisan who crafts stylish homewares from lava stone, marble and ceramics. The joy of Catania is roaming its streets on an empty stomach, salivating over vendors’ fresh, fried seafood, the calzone-like cartocciata and other native delights spread along unbuttoned Tavola Calda Catanese (Catanian ‘hot tables’), then tucking into plates of pasta alla Norma at low-key haunts such as Al Tortellino.

Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve

This is pure, unsullied Sicily at its best before even the Ancient Greeks got their deft hands on the island. At Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, Mediterranean scrub smothers steep hillsides that edge abruptly to meet a surreal, gin-clear water. The rugged northwestern stretch of coastline narrowly avoided rampant development following a planned road connecting Scopello with San Vito Lo Capo with a public petition. As such, its mass of untamed, scrubby green can today be traipsed through on foot or horseback, via ethereal blue coves such as Cala Marinella, the odd wandering fox and to the soothing rhythm of Aleppo pines rustling in the hot wind. The reserve’s six knockout beaches are comfortingly hard to reach, so it’s worth planning the route well before you visit.

Vendicari Beaches

Spanning Sicily’s southeastern coast from Noto to Marzamemi, the car-free Vendicari Reserve in Syracuse is a series of protected, unspoilt beaches – some blonde and beautiful with soft sand (Eloro, Calamosche), others rockier, and with saline lagoons home to various migratory birds. These are interconnected by a path that snakes along the coast (though, in true Sicilian style, reaching the actual beach from the car can take a good hour of crunching through brittle trails). Birdwatchers flock to the marshes, where various species, such as flamingos (in spring and autumn), marsh harriers and black and white storks congregate in great numbers. As well as beach and wildlife, The Vendicari Reserve has plenty to offer the history buffs, with archaeological sites such as the ancient Greek city of Eloro, Torre Sveva (a 15th-century tower) and an ancient tonnara (tuna fishery).

Street food tour

Street food tours are great things to do in Sicily and a fabulous alternative to hours of shuffling through museums. Like the rest of Italy , so many answers can be found in the kitchen, and some of Sicily’s finest food can be bought roadside or in its energetic, unvarnished markets, where rituals as old as the mottled walls unfold. Among a dizzying choice of tours, a few standouts include a Night Street Food Tour of Palermo with Palermo Street Food Tours, where tales of conquest are woven into arancini, panelle and pani ca’ meusa tastings. Sicilian-run Streaty Food Tours operating in both Palermo and Catania, have that local touch with understated insider spots you’d naturally walk pass, and miss out on eye-rolling ricotta and anchovy-stuffed Siciliana or some of the best Minne di Sant’Agata in Catania. Across most of Sicily’s towns and cities, you can comb through Airbnb Experiences to find proud, knowledgeable Sicilians willing to invite you into their labyrinth of lesser-known foodie spots – just be sure to read the reviews and ratings.

Ancient towns of Siracuse and Ortigia

The ancient Greek city of Syracuse was once a busy metropolis that Cicero described as the most beautiful Greek city. It’s certainly hard to deny its beauty. Two short bridges connect the island of Ortigia to the mainland, a UNESCO landmark where getting lost is almost obligatory, tracing nearly 3,000 years of history through the various architectural styles and taking refuge from the heat under oversized trattorie umbrellas. Visitors gorge on fried seafood and generously filled sandwiches at Ortigia’s outdoor market, then load up on gelato at Volgia Matte before taking on the Neapolis Archeological Park, with its famous Greek Theatre. Intense flashes of blue against the city’s sun-bleached limestone from the surrounding lagoon lure swimmers to its rocky edges (head to Forte Vigliena for a bath-warm dip or stay at The Thinking Traveller’s seafront hideaway with an oasis-style roof terrace hovering above the bustling heart of ancient Ortigia, and moments from the water).

Pantelleria

Seemingly drifting off towards Tunisia from Sicily’s South Western shores, Pantelleria is the largest of the minor Sicilian islands and one of its most ravishing. Scorched and rocky, its warm, cobalt swim spots are often a challenge to reach (the best things in life are), and reward long hikes through its fennel and wild caper-coated interior – bring a snorkel and jelly shoes (the rocks can get hot) to Martingana, Tenuta Borgia or the lava-formed Arch of the Elephant. From the mud baths of Lo Specchio di Venere to Bagno Ascuitto’s hot-steam grotto, Pantelleria’s fringes constitute a natural spa with gurgling thermal waters. Sunsets are also taken seriously here. They’re Africa-meets-Italy: blazing across a vast horizon. Whether scoffing the fisherman's haul at Ristorante Bar la Vela, Margaritas and caper paté at Kaya Kaya overlooking the harbour of Scauri, or simply scrambling onto a rocky perch with a cold beer.

Trapani Salt Pans

Once Europe’s centre for ‘white gold,’ Trapani’s salt pans date back to Sicily’s Norman chapter and are now protected by the WWF as one of the world’s most important wetlands for migratory birds. The scenery offers an unexpected hiatus from the limestone Baroque and rocky beaches that fill up most of the island’s coastline, with its Dutch-style mills at their most picturesque during dusk, their inky silhouette pressed into a canvas of burnt orange and crimson. Take a guided tour of the Maria Stella salt pans for a whistle-stop-tour of the production process, sampling various salt flavours and (in spring and autumn) spotting flamingos and other migratory birds nesting.

To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories .

7 Reasons Why Sicily Should Be Your Next Italian Holiday Destination

By Liam Hess

We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.

If you had to sum up Sicily in just a few words, it’s an island of extremes. Rocky volcanic coastlines give way to white sandy beaches. Crumbling architectural treasures of the ancient world sit next to some of the most theatrical and perfectly preserved paintings of the Baroque. Menus feature hearty pasta dishes next to the freshest raw seafood, while the grandest of five-star luxury accommodations are found alongside meticulously designed boutique hotels and charming farm stays. It’s a cliche, but in Sicily, there’s truly something for everyone.

There’s also never been a better time to visit Sicily than now, with two new five-star hotel openings this summer that promise the utmost comfort in the heart of two of its most beloved cities. So here, find Vogue ’s pick of the best places to stay—and of course, the best things to see, do, and eat—on the island that continues to serve at the crossroads of the Mediterranean.

The highest concentration of five-star hotels in Sicily has historically been found within the town of Taormina, famed for its idyllic cobblestoned streets, pink bougainvillea bursting from balconies, and the ancient Greek amphitheater which plays host to an eclectic lineup of musicians for outdoor concerts under the stars every summer. And last year, a new (or at least, meticulously refurbished) hotel arrived in town, San Domenico Palace —and drew headlines even more recently as the setting of the second season of The White Lotus . While the historic building—originally a monastery, still visible through the original frescos preserved above rooms which have now been converted into lavish suites—has been a hotel since 1986, it reopened in 2021 as the Four Seasons’ new southern Italian jewel. With spectacular views across the bay and over to Mount Etna (best enjoyed by the infinity pool, Aperol spritz in hand), three restaurants, and a can’t-be-beat proximity to Taormina’s most popular shopping street, Corso Umberto, it blends Sicilian charm with the utmost luxury. 

By Dulce Moncada

By Daniel Rodgers

The other spot on the island that remains an eternal favorite for intrepid travelers is its capital city, Palermo. There you’ll find Villa Igiea , the latest offering from the Italian-owned (but very much international) hotel group Rocco Forte—just far enough outside the city center to offer peace and quiet, but merely a 10-minute journey from Palermo’s breathtaking historical sites, Sicilian down-home cooking, and of course, the extraordinary architecture that blends epic Norman scale with Arabic flourishes. 

Overlooking a tranquil marina and boasting its own private harbor, you’ll also find a sparkling turquoise pool with a brand new restaurant offering fresh fish (whether crudo , tartare, or with a helping of pasta) daily for lunch, a spa featuring Irene Forte’s own skincare line as the star attraction, and spacious rooms with spectacular views. While it’s essential to experience the theatrical bustle of Palermo—whether the shouts of stallholders among the jovial chaos of the Ballaro market, or the city’s younger residents congregating around the bars that line the streets surrounding the Teatro Massimo opera house at the weekend—it’s also nice to be able to step back to somewhere a little calmer. For that, Villa Igiea ticks all the boxes.

And while Monaci delle Terre Nere isn’t brand new, per se—the spectacular Relais & Chateaux property situated in the heart of the Etna National Park, overlooking its volcanic slopes (the “terre nere” of the name translates as “black lands”)—a recent overhaul has given one of Sicily’s most beloved and distinctive properties a new lease of life. The service and amenities here are very much five-star, with high-design rooms and villas scattered across its 60 acres of vineyards, olives groves, and rocky volcanic outcrop (yes, there is a golf buggy service to whizz you around if you don’t feel like stretching your legs that day) but the magic of Monaci delle Terre Nere lies in the various ways it rewards a more adventurous traveler.

The pool and main building of Monaci delle Terre Nere. 

Just take the head-spinning array of activities on offer. There are botanical walks through the property’s fragrant herb gardens and endless fields of fruit trees, or more ambitious hikes across the dried lava slicks of Mount Etna. (Naturally, bikes and e-bikes are also available for those seeking to explore the extraordinary natural wonders of the surrounding area.) You can laze by the pool, with its sweeping views across the foothills of the volcano and out to the glittering expanse of the Ionian sea, take a morning yoga session, or arrange an in-room treatment. On which note, those rooms: while the central building at Monaci is a striking 19th-century palazzo in a shade of dusty terracotta, each of the 27 rooms spread across the estate feels entirely individual, featuring everything from lava walls to a historic wine press to a cutting-edge floating bed, with an old-meets-new design scheme that somehow seams harmoniously together.

But the real standout at Monaci is the world-class food and wine offering. As a member of the pioneering farm-to-fork Slow Food movement, the main restaurant, Locanda Nerello, is worth visiting even if you aren’t staying at the property, with the majority of produce being either sourced from the farm itself or local (and we mean local) suppliers, resulting in spectacularly fresh updates and riffs on Sicilian staples. And finally, it wouldn’t be a proper stay here without sampling the wine, whose uniquely aromatic properties can be attributed to the volcanic terroir—and is, of course, cultivated on the property. Enjoy it by the pool on a balmy Sicilian afternoon, or at night while sitting outside of your villa, gazing up at the faint red glow of Etna’s crater.

Aside from the ancient ruins and all that shopping, Taormina is also famous for the idyllic beaches that run across a series of bays clustered around the base of the town, easily reached by a cable car. But if you’re looking for front-row seats at these small slices of paradise, there are a handful of reliable places to stay, too. First, there’s Villa Sant’Andrea , a private villa converted by Belmond and overlooking the Bay of Mazzarò, with lush subtropical gardens first planted by its aristocratic owners in the 19th century and an atmospheric restaurant overlooking the water. 

(Plus, if you want to explore both the bustling center of town and the beaches, you can also stay in Sant’Andrea’s sister hotel also owned by Belmond, Grand Hotel Timeo , whose rich history as a gathering place for writers and intellectuals from D.H. Lawrence to Jean Cocteau to Truman Capote is matched only by its convenient location right next to the amphitheater and cable car.)

A view over Verdura Resort. 

Meanwhile, an hour-plus drive from Palermo, the sprawling Verdura Resort is a luxury beachfront compound just outside the vibrant port town of Sciacca. Hotelier Rocco Forte has created a modern escape that feels swept away from the nonstop Sicilian energy, but you can find it here if you seek it out. With a lush, world-class golf course and thermal pools that offer hydrotherapy—and a fully stocked spa—it’s a slow-down spot to unwind (with or without what’s been an abundant celebrity crowd) after all the espresso and gelato you’ve indulged in back in town. Newly minted wine bar Cocciu di Luna, in Sciacca proper, serves up locally crafted Sicilian wines and inventive small bites with local ingredients on the grounds of a castle built in 1380 by Guglielmo Peralta, the Earl of Caltabellotta. Come for the breathtaking view of the valley and the dramatic illumination of the castle’s silhouette after dark; stay for live music performed in the cove-like cave stage set into the mountainside.

Sicily’s landscape is as diverse as the various cultures that have called the island home across the centuries. But venture beyond the most popular locales of Taormina and Palermo, and there are endless discoveries to be made—to name just a few, the pristine beaches surrounding the cities of Trapani and Marsala on the western coast, the crumbling Baroque architecture of the atmospheric island of Ortigia in Siracusa, or the hilltop towns, dust-blown valleys, and dramatic coastline of the island’s south-eastern corner, including cities like Ragusa, Modica, and Noto.

For truly adventurous spirits, there’s also the spectacular island of Pantelleria , perhaps best-known internationally for serving as the backdrop to Luca Guadagnino’s decadent 2015 psychological drama A Bigger Splash , starring Tilda Swinton swanning around the island’s epic landscapes as a Bowie-esque rockstar in a full wardrobe of Raf Simons-designed Dior couture. Mere decades ago the island was barely known outside of Italy, gaining international recognition partly thanks to Giorgio Armani’s dramatic, sprawling estate on the north side of the island, while other celebrity vacationers in the past have included Madonna, Julia Roberts, and Sting.

With its wild winds, windy roads, and rugged landscape, it’s often said that Pantelleria is “the island with no beaches,” although there are dozens upon dozens of stunning coves in which to take a dip. And if you’re looking for a little slice of luxury while you’re there, one hotel stands head and shoulders above the rest. To enter Sikelia through its impressive golden door, located near the charming town of Scauri on the island’s south side, is to step into your own little fortress featuring just 19 individually decorated suites. Blending the earthy minimalism of the traditional dammusi they were built from with more opulent touches like Frette linens and contemporary artworks, the holistic aesthetic vision for the hotel—spearheaded by its colorful owner, former basketball player Giulia Gelmetti—beautifully echo the colors and textures of the island itself. 

A highlight here is the dining, which manages to add gourmet flourishes while still remaining unfussy, with a particular highlight, inevitably, being the seafood. Under the guidance of Executive Chef Diego Battaglia, the restaurant’s food offering reflects Pantelleria’s unique location which actually hems closer to that of Tunisia than Sicily itself, incorporating Arab and North African elements into his riffs on the classic Sicilian ingredients of sea urchin, red prawns, and swordfish. Make sure you spend an evening at the hotel’s vineyard, Coste Ghirlanda —located a mere 10 minute drive away—where you can watch the stars before taking in a tasting menu under the care of chef Luca Mastromattei.  

Just off the north coast, accessible by a regular ferry and hydrofoil schedule from the port town of Milazzo, sit the volcanic archipelago of the Aeolian Islands: still a relatively unspoiled corner of Sicily, these seven islands are the perfect destination for those seeking untouched natural beauty and true seclusion. (Especially for those willing to travel to the more low-key spots of Filicudi, Alicudi, and Stromboli.) For anyone who wants to get the Aeolian experience while still maintaining their creature comforts, the islands to head to, however, are Lipari, Salina, and Panarea.

There are few places better to appreciate the Aeolian pace of life than at Capofaro , which boasts one of the most breathtaking settings in all of Sicily. Just a 10-minute drive from the port at Santa Marina Salina (a quietly glamorous destination for restaurants and boutique shopping in its own right), the Relais & Chateaux hotel is perched at the edge of a clifftop, with the main building housed in a historic lighthouse that still glows in the evening, and the rest of the property’s 27 rooms spread across a series of whitewashed outbuildings, lending it a similar feel to the picturesque villages that dot the nearby coastline but entirely private. The interiors carry a subdued chic, decorated with breezy linen in gray and white and wicker furniture; wandering around the property, it’s clear that the visitors it attracts are as stylish as the surroundings. 

A shuttle will happily whisk you away to the nearby towns or a charmingly low-key beach club on the south coast of the island, but you’ll be just as happy whiling the days away by the pool—which is, conveniently, located right next to the restaurant area. As the greenest of the Aeolians, Salina has a remarkable agricultural heritage that Capofaro fully honors, whether through the fresh capers you’ll find woven through your spaghetti to lend it that unmistakable salty tang, or studded in ice cream for dessert (it’s surprisingly delicious), or the wine made from the distinctive malvasia leaves grown on the estate.

If it’s a slightly glitzier experience you’re seeking from your Aeolian vacation (nobody does a glamorous holiday like the Italians, after all), then make a beeline for the island of Vulcano—and more specifically, to Therasia Resort . Once again situated on a jaw-dropping location spread across the edge of a cliff face—there are multiple swimming pools that have been built into its jutting edges, which lead all the way down to the sea if you want to take a dip there, too—the sprawling estate houses 97 rooms (in which you’ll find every mod-con from TVs to high-speed Wi-Fi) yet still somehow manages to retain an air of tranquility.

Then, there are the hotel’s four restaurants to try, two of which are Michelin-starred: first, Il Cappero, where impossibly fresh, playfully realized seafood fishes are the star and with unparalleled views over to the neighboring islands of Lipari and Salina; and I Tenerumi, located up a winding pathway at the back of the estate surrounded by greenery, and where you can sample an ever-changing seasonal menu of inventive vegetarian and vegan dishes by chef Davide Guidara, who was awarded the Michelin award for best young chef this year. As the sun dips below the horizon and fades into an impossibly scenic Aeolian sunset, you couldn’t find a better backdrop if you tried. 

Eating in Sicily is often a case of following your nose, with many of the island’s greatest culinary highlights found in its most unassuming places. This is partly thanks to the rich culture of street food, best tasted in open-air markets; from the now world-famous arancini to the traditional peasant food of sfincione , a pizza-like snack topped with tomato sauce and breadcrumbs. The island’s unique history of cultural cross-pollination (more on that later) has also given rise to a number of ingredients you might be surprised to find on an Italian menu, whether couscous from North Africa, raisins from Persia, or sesame seeds from the Levant. (Pistachios, eggplant, oranges, olives, almonds, and prickly pears also feature heavily in Sicily’s colorful cuisine.)

But of course, the real highlight of eating your way around Sicily is the sheer range and lip-smacking freshness of the seafood. In Palermo, there are endless options for down-home Sicilian cooking, with a notable absence of the typical tourist trap restaurants that often line the main thoroughfares of popular Italian cities. ( Osteria Nonna Dora , Trattoria Trapani, and Osteria dei Vespri are all reliable go-tos.) For a more contemporary take on the island’s tradition of seafood, visit L’Ottava Nota in the city’s cosmopolitan Kalsa district for ceviche or amberjack tataki, or A’Cuncuma , which offers a tasting menu that journeys through the flavors of Sicily from both the sea and the earth. 

If you’re looking for something sweet, Sicilian pastries are of course the stuff of legend, from cannoli to ricotta-stuffed cassatelle . A perennial favorite and something of a Palermo institution is Pasticceria Cappello , conveniently found just steps from the tourist hotspot of the Palazzo dei Normanni, which serves all the classic Sicilian dolci along with their famous setteveli cake, featuring seven layers of chocolate and hazelnuts.

In Taormina, you’ll find a number of more gourmet options, including two Michelin-starred restaurants working at the forefront of contemporary Sicilian cooking. First, there’s Otto Geleng found in the heart of the Grand Hotel Timeo, which features just eight tables overlooking the Bay of Naxos with spectacular views of Etna and inventive riffs on traditional Sicilian dishes by chef Roberto Toro. Then, in The Ashbee Hotel —another popular option for stays in Taormina—there’s St. George by Heinz Beck , which is headed up by one of the youngest Michelin-star chefs in Italy, Delfo Schiaffino. 

If you make it all the way to Pantelleria, make sure you stop by Osteria il Principe e il Pirata near the idyllic village of Gadir, known to be a favorite of Giorgio Armani’s whenever he hosts guests at his nearby holiday home. Start with grilled octopus or mackerel before enjoying homemade linguine or tagliolini with fresh seafood—all caught off the coast that morning, naturally. 

Sicily is often referred to as the crossroads of the Western world, not just for its prime location in the center of the Mediterranean, but also for the melting pot of cultures and ethnicities that form Sicily today, borne out of the island’s many millennia of being variously occupied by the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, French, Spanish, and even the Swiss. Each of these various cultures left an indelible mark on the island—and nowhere is that more visible than in the rich array of art and architecture that can be found in every corner. 

For those with a particular interest in the ancient world, the Valley of the Temples near the town of Agrigento—as well as the ruins of the ancient cities of Segesta and Selinunte on the island’s west coast—offer some of the best-preserved and most jaw-dropping examples of ancient Greek architecture outside of the Acropolis. Meanwhile, if the Romans are more your thing, the extraordinary mosaics found at the Villa Romana del Casale, a short drive from the charming town of Piazza Armerina, offer an insight into the whimsical decor of an ancient holiday home, from exotic animals being transported from Africa to Europe to bikini-clad gymnasts.

Sicily’s second heyday came during the 17th and 18th centuries when it was part of the Spanish Empire, resulting in a number of flourishing cities packed to the brim with lavish Baroque architecture. For fans of Caravaggio, two of his paintings can be found in Messina and Siracusa, while a third, found in the Oratory of San Lorenzo in Palermo, exists now merely as a replica, but with a fascinating backstory involving a Mafia robbery. Following an earthquake in 1693 that devastated much of the southeast, cities like Noto and Ragusa were reborn as elaborate and highly theatrical visions of Sicily’s distinctive take on the late Baroque style, and still impress with their faded grandeur. 

Finally, for those seeking something a little more cutting-edge, the island has a handful of contemporary art gems too. First up is Palazzo Riso in Palermo, which houses a number of works by artists from the arte povera movement of the 1960s and ’70s including Jannis Kounellis, Carla Accardi, and Giovanni Anselmo, as well as international artists such as Richard Long and Christian Boltanski. (For bibliophiles, there’s also a well-curated bookshop and a cafe.) If it’s contemporary Sicilian artists you’re looking for, Palermo also boasts a thriving gallery scene, including Francesco Pantaleone Arte Contemporanea (FPAC) , Nuvole Incontri d’Arte , and RizzutoGallery .

Of course, a holiday wouldn’t be a holiday without a dip in the ocean—and once again, Sicily has you more than covered. To find its best beaches, there are two regions worth exploring. First and foremost, there are the pristine sandy shores of the island’s west coast, most notably around the cities of Trapani and Marsala, lapped by turquoise-blue Mediterranean waters that stay warm even into the fall. (Some of the best-known include San Vito lo Capo, Tonnara di Scopello, Cala Marinella, and Marakaiobbo, but for more intrepid explorers there are plenty of more off-the-beaten-track coves to be discovered too.)

The other place to find some of the island’s most gorgeous swimming destinations is at its southwestern tip in the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa, with many in tricky-to-reach spots that more than reward the extra effort, such as the picture-postcard Calamosche or the nearby and slightly more accessible Marianelli. Just make sure you pack arancini for lunch, sunscreen, and plenty of water. 

And if you’re in the region and feeling particularly adventurous, take a trip to the Cavagrande del Cassibile nature reserve, an enormous canyon full of scenic trekking trails that remains one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets. The ultimate highlight? After a long journey deep into the valley, you’ll find a network of crystal-clear lakes, waterfalls, and rock pools to cool off as the sun begins to fall behind the top of the canyon. The perfect end to a perfect day out.

More Great Living Stories From Vogue

The Best Places in the World for Solo Travel

Candice Bergen on What It Was Really Like to Attend Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball

The Curious Case of Kate Middleton’s “Disappearance”

Sofia Richie Grainge Is Pregnant! And It’s a….

Never miss a Vogue moment and get unlimited digital access for just $2 $1 per month.

• Hamra Earring
• Altan Earring
• Handan Earring
• Altan Necklace
• Didem Necklace
• Gul Necklace
• Handan Bracelet
• Gul Bracelet
• Hulya Bracelet
• Base Layers and Chains
• Hand of Hamsa
• Protection Symbols
• Book A Consultation
• Jewellery Earrings Hamra Earring Altan Earring Handan Earring Shop All Necklaces Altan Necklace Didem Necklace Gul Necklace Shop All Bracelets Handan Bracelet Gul Bracelet Hulya Bracelet Shop All Base Layers and Charms Base Layers and Chains Pendants Symbols Evil Eye Hand of Hamsa Heart Shop All

Palermo, Sicily with Roz

Hello my name is Roz and I am a travel and fashion features writer and editor with over a decade’s experience working for world-renowned glossies and national newspapers. 

Last year, we packed our bags for Sicily in that brief lockdown hiatus, when travel restrictions were lifted and airports became a masterclass in chaos. And it was worth it. I flew out with my husband on a road trip feature mission for Condé Nast Traveller, with a  surprisingly light suitcase (for me) and a fresh kick of gratitude for a change of scene and  culture.

Our first stop was Palermo, an alluringly dishevelled city whose bygone splendour is cracked,  sun-baked and beautiful. I’d possibly spent too long fixating on the Baroque towns of the  south east to untangle any preconceived ideas around Palermo, but in just two days, the city’s  warren of honey-hued palazzos and light-filled piazzas cast a delicious, Aperol-heavy spell  on me.

Like a swallow whose beak sends it south, I’m heading back there this September (a curious  decision for someone who hankers after variety). I’m particularly excited to peek inside the  fresh interiors of Villa Igiea, Rocco Forte’s latest opening, lording over Palermo’s shoreline  like a relic of the capital’s golden age.

Best restaurants Palermo bears the architectural and cultural stamps of the various invaders that claimed and  conquered it throughout the centuries. As such, Norman castles rub shoulders with Byzantine  mosaics, mosques and splendid Spanish doorways adorned with stone cherubs. This unique  fusion of cultures is also prevalent across the city’s menus. In Palermo’s labyrinth of  understated and enchanting eateries, you’ll find arancini, aubergine caponata, pasta alla  Norma and granita con brioche (sweet frozen granita sandwiched in a warm brioche bun  which Sicilians enjoy for leisurely breakfasts with a coffee and a long silver spoon). We lent  into this tradition at Prestipino café, and enjoyed elevated riffs on Sicilian classics at Osteria  Ballarò, a buttoned-up restaurant housed in old palace stables with a well-curated wine list.

Best shopping Head to the old town if you want to peer into Palermo’s soul and dive into its tangle of  antiques and flea markets, such as Mercato delle Pulci, or Mercato del Capo as well as its  food markets which bear the rhythms and kaleidoscopic colour palette of a Moroccan souk.  Not far from the Fountain of Shame (Fontana della Vergogna) in Piazza Pretoria, I stumbled  upon Libraria Forense, an old bookshop tucked away in Palermo’s ancient backstreets. It’s  well worth visiting, for the beautifully curated interiors as well as the mix of modern reads  and battered leather hardbacks.

Let's stay in touch.

Join our mailing list for news, product releases and travel stories.

11 Best Airbnbs in Buenos Aires, From Palermo to San Telmo

A s a full-time traveler with a strong affection for South America, I’ve spent more time in Buenos Aires than anywhere else in the world, save for my hometown. It’s one of the most livable and exciting cities I’ve ever visited—each neighborhood offers something special and gives you reasons to keep coming back, from historic San Telmo to trendy Palermo. Whether you're a remote worker looking to stay awhile or a family seeking out a home base with room to spread out, booking an Airbnb can help you explore these exciting neighborhoods in a new way. We’ve found some of the best properties in the city for all types of travelers, from a massive five-bedroom home with a private spa to an elegant apartment with jaw-dropping views of the Obelisk.

When picking an Airbnb in Buenos Aires, location is one of the most important things to consider. Like any big city, some areas are safer than others. You’ll also want to consider your proximity to some of the top attractions and public transportation, so you’ll have no trouble seeing everything you want to see. Below, 11 of the best Airbnbs in Buenos Aires, all with thoughtful design and unique amenities in locations of the city that just can't be beat. Here, you'll find no shortage of personality or charm, allowing you to soak in the city's incredible culture.

We've vetted these listings based on Superhost status, ratings, amenities, location, previous guest reviews, and decor.

For a private oasis

$290.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 2 bedrooms, 2.5 baths

Top amenities: Dedicated office, private garden with pool, beautiful design

Whether you’re a family , a pair of couples traveling together, or a few friends on vacation, having your own private oasis in the middle of a city that never sleeps can be a blessing. This spacious home fits up to four, features a private pool and garden, and is perfect for those who want a little privacy from the city as well as each other (there's a large patio that separates the two bedrooms). It’s nestled in Nuñez, an up-and-coming area with much to offer. For longer stays, the in-unit washer and dryer, private office, and garage are particularly appealing.

For large groups

$1267.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 5 bedrooms, 4 baths

Top amenities: More than 9,000 square feet of space, private spa, fully-equipped kitchens

If you’re looking for a place that is oozing with charm and culture and provides near-unlimited space, this is the rental for you. This massive home is in the neighborhood of San Telmo, a.k.a. the birthplace of tango , and is conveniently located near many of the city's main attractions . The property boasts more than 9,000 square feet of living space, complete with a private spa. Those traveling in a large group will appreciate that you can fit up to 12 people, and will enjoy amenities like a movie projector, sound system, and multiple kitchens and dining areas.

For the host or hostess

$480.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 4 bedrooms, 4 baths

Top amenities: Private 3,000-square-foot patio, hot tub, in-unit washer and dryer

While slightly smaller than the other option on this list for big groups , this property is still well-suited for hosting a full crew. The private terrace spans over 3,000 square feet and features a hot tub, sundeck, and dining area. You’ll get incredible city views while relaxing in the hot tub, and it’s in the perfect neighborhood for exploring. It is particularly good for families or groups of friends thanks to the unique bedroom configuration: two double bedrooms and two rooms with three twin beds each. The apartment sleeps up to 10 guests, but you’ll likely spend most of your time on the expansive terrace.

For the design lover

$150.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 1 bedroom, 2 baths

Top amenities: Faena Aleph design, rooftop pool and gym

Arguably one of the most well-designed properties on this list, this one-bedroom apartment features a bright living area, a bathroom with a large tub, and a functional kitchen. Faena Aleph Apartments works with designers, artists, and architects from all over the world to design their sleek, artsy units . There’s a pool and a gym on the roof, adding to the quiet luxury of the apartment. It’s located in Puerto Madero, an area by the water known for excellent dining and cultural opportunities as well as a variety of activities both day and night.

For the digital nomad

Bed & bath: 1 bedroom, 1.5 baths

Top amenities: Private terrace, fully renovated interior, fast Wi-Fi

As a digital nomad , Buenos Aires is one of my favorite places to spend a few months working remotely. This one-bedroom duplex is located in Palermo Hollywood, one of the best areas in the city for expats looking to meet fellow travelers, making it great for solo travelers or couples. For those working remotely, there’s a dedicated workspace and fast Wi-Fi to help you stay productive on the road. Plus, you have a private terrace with great views. The fully-equipped kitchen and comfortable division of space are added benefits for nomads looking to stay awhile.

For a hotel-like experience

$67.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 1 bedroom, 1 bath

Top amenities: In-building amenities, smart lock, premium location

There are certainly plenty of hotels throughout Buenos Aires, but I’ve found that if you want to stay in the prime areas and feel more like a local than a tourist, you need to rent an apartment. This property gives you the best of both worlds with hotel-like amenities in a perfect location. It’s next to the Recoleta Cemetery, a must-visit attraction when you’re in town, and is perfectly situated for a walk around the beautiful neighborhood. The building features a gym, spa, sauna, and hot tub, and the apartment has premium sheets and high-speed internet. The design feels very high-end, with tasteful furniture, blackout curtains, and a beautiful bathroom.

For solo tranquility

$108.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Top amenities: Private pool, storage, air conditioning

You don’t have to travel with a large group to score a private pool : This one-bedroom apartment in Palermo has a patio with a plunge pool and outdoor grill. If you travel solo but still want your own private oasis, this is the perfect property for you. The living space is small but functional, and since the apartment is on the top floor of the building, it’s bright and airy. The walk-in closet provides excellent storage space as well. The building has a full gym, free garage, and laundry area accessible by a code you’ll receive upon entry.

For views of the Obelisk

$69.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Top amenities: Incredible views, elegant design, easy access to the subway

The shining star of this elegant property is the balcony, which features unobstructed views of the incredible Obelisk—an iconic part of Buenos Aires in the center of the city. You’re unlikely to find a better view of it anywhere else. Being so close to the Obelisk means you’re in a prime space near extensive public transportation and can easily access any part of the city. The kitchen is tight but suitable for a few days on vacation (there's a mini-fridge, microwave, dishwasher, and electric stove), and the view from the patio more than makes up for it.

For the business traveler

Top amenities: 24-hour doorman, on-site co-working space, large kitchen

If you are traveling for work without an office to go into, you'll appreciate this building's co-working space. The apartment itself also has a dedicated workspace, meaning you can be productive day and night. Located in historic San Telmo, you’ll have some of the best food right at your fingertips, as well as museums and shopping. There’s also a park across the street, which is beautiful for a daytime stroll (but it's best to avoid at night). The open kitchen, rooftop pool, in-building laundry, and fully equipped gym are just the cherry on top. Overall, this apartment provides tons of amenities while keeping affordability at the forefront.

For families with young children

$92.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Bed & bath: 2 bedrooms, 1.5 baths

Top amenities: Garage, balcony, child-friendly features

If you're traveling with young children , you’ll appreciate the amenities available here, including a crib (upon request), children's books and toys, a baby bath, children's dinnerware, a changing table, and safety gates. One of the bedrooms has two twin beds, ideal for those with multiple young ones. It’s also located in Nuñez, one of Buenos Aires' most family-friendly neighborhoods. Plus there’s a bathroom with a bathtub, making it one of the more accommodating properties in the city for both kids and those with limited mobility.

For pet parents

$68.00, Airbnb (starting price)

Top amenities: In-unit washer, private patio

I travel full-time with my cat , Isabelle, and can attest to how difficult it can be to find a pet-friendly apartment. This apartment fits the bill, and is located in Palermo Soho, right in the middle of some fantastic restaurants. It’s well equipped for longer stays thanks to the full kitchen, patio with a grill, and location far from street noise. The aesthetic of this apartment is quite homey, which can make you feel like you’re living in the city rather than simply visiting. Plus, you can do laundry using the in-unit washer, which is relatively uncommon in Buenos Aires.

Europe Chevron

Spain Chevron

My Favorite Airbnb: A Spanish Countryside Villa With a Huge Private Pool

By Abigail Malbon

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

A hill I will die on: There are few types of trips as stressful to organize as group travel . But we are all just walking contradictions, and while I hate organizing big group trips, being around all of my friends is one of my favorite ways to vacation. So, when my best friend asked me to be her maid of honor, I happily accepted, knowing that I would undoubtedly need to shepherd multiple people to one place at the same time to plan the bachelorette party of her dreams.

I’m based in London , which (usually) makes traveling through Europe a simple experience—and means a 72-hour trip to another country isn’t a complete logistical nightmare. Given that I was planning a trip in mid-March, I knew we’d have a more joyful time in the sunshine, so when looking for an Airbnb for 20 people, I set my sights on Spain . The guidelines were relatively simple; I wanted somewhere big enough for us all, relaxing (not in a city center) but close enough to an airport that we wouldn’t have to travel for hours to reach the place. When I found Ana’s stunning home an hour outside Barcelona , I knew I’d struck gold.

What appealed to me most about the property was the sheer size; I looked at a lot of places, and it was rare to find somewhere with enough bedrooms to comfortably sleep 20 (multiple bunk beds in one room was not an option we’d entertain). I also loved the remote location—overlooking the area’s greenery and out to sea—and the private pool (cold spring temperatures will never be a deterrent to us Brits). But I have to admit, I was anxious about it not living up to the images, or that some of the guests wouldn’t feel comfortable.

I needn’t have worried. Everything about this property matched the images and description online, from the stunning view to the large and comfortable rooms. And even organizing the (admittedly quite simple) itinerary was made easy thanks to Ana’s recommendations; she shared a contact who planned a nearby boat trip , and passed on details for a local food delivery service to ensure everything came to the door without us having to lift a finger. This level of assistance made the trip feel almost like a hotel stay, and took away much of the stress of a task that had felt mountainous when I first started planning.

Since the property was so beautiful, it meant that we were very happy to just spend time at the villa hanging out, instead of feeling the need to create a jam-packed schedule of activities. We had group dinners in the large dining room, made breakfast together in the kitchen, sat by the pool with cold glasses of cava, and spent the evenings dancing under the trees as the sun set over the sea. The fact that the whole group felt so comfortable in the villa made the bachelorette feel more personal, more intimate, and more fun than any other I’d been on. And when being around 19 other people got a little bit overwhelming, there were plenty of areas (like the dining room, or the games room) to escape and have 10 minutes alone.

Ana has clearly designed this property to cater to groups. While some rooms had queen beds, many had singles, which made sharing a space more comfortable. There was an impressive amount of bathrooms (7.5 total) and—crucially—multiple people could shower at once without the water going out.

The place went down so well that some of the guests asked for the Airbnb link when we returned, and are looking to plan a return visit with family in future. My only regret about our stay is that we only booked two nights instead of three. I would go through the stress of planning a bachelorette party all over again if it meant another weekend in the Spanish sunshine.

Recommended

• Inspiration
• Destinations
• Places To Stay
• Style & Culture
• Food & Drink
• Wellness & Spas
• News & Advice
• Partnerships
• Traveller's Directory
• Travel Tips
• Competitions

Condé Nast Traveller

By Charley Ward and Lauren Burvill

By Condé Nast Traveller and Becky Lucas

By Noo Saro-Wiwa

By Daisy Allsup and Louise Long

By Erinne Magee

Trending Stories

By Connor Sturges

By María Casbas

By Olivia Morelli

The UK's Top New Restaurant Awards

By CNT Editors

By Sarah James

Editor recommendations

Destination guides

By Nicky Swallow

By Jaclyn DeGiorgio

By Rachel Everett

Food and drink

By Nina Caplan , Zoe Cook and Alex Barlow

By Tom Parker Bowles and Rick Jordan

By Connor Sturges and Zahra Surya Darma

By Jonathan Hatchman

By Cass Farrar

Affordable travel

By Anna Prendergast and Connor Sturges

By Anna Prendergast

By Charley Ward

By Jenna Scatena and Megan McCrea

By Charlotte Davey

By Rick Jordan

By Madison Flager , Meaghan Kenny and Charley Ward

By Anita Bhagwandas

By Charlotte Davey and Lauren Burvill

By Madison Flager and Charley Ward

By Lee Marshall

By Vivienne Dovi

By Chloe Sachdev

By Harriet Davey