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Greek Hotels Fear a Burning Future: ‘Even the Animals Are Moving Away’

The fiercest wildfires have hit only parts of a few islands. But the effects of climate change pose a far wider threat to Greece’s tourism industry.

By Emma Bubola and Niki Kitsantonis

Emma Bubola reported from London and Niki Kitsantonis from Athens.

As thousands of tourists have fled the flames devouring the Greek island of Rhodes, locals were left with scorched land, and the ashes of the cypresses, olive trees and pines surrounding their empty bars, shops and hotels.

Many fear their livelihoods have been shattered for now and perhaps for the future, if the visitors, a core source of income for the island, do not return.

“It was green, and now it’s black,” said George Tirelis, who manages some holiday villas in the south of Rhodes, which are now empty and surrounded by charred land. “Tourists are scared now to come.”

More than most European countries, Greece depends on the summer months of tourism to pay for the rest of the year, and its economy heavily relies on the attractiveness of its crystalline seas and picturesque landscapes. The fires that have spread since last week have blighted the country’s image as a vacation retreat, prompting what officials called its largest evacuation in recent history, causing huge damage to buildings and the environment and killing at least two people.

But as climate change intensifies stifling heat waves, and the dryness that fuels the wildfires, it is also raising longer-term questions for Greece’s economy and the people who live there.

On Wednesday, firefighters were still battling spreading flames, including new blazes on the mainland, their efforts complicated by increasingly dry and hot conditions with yet another wave of heat descending over Greece. Temperatures peaked on Wednesday, reaching 46 Celsius, or about 115 Fahrenheit, in central Greece, with an extreme risk of wildfires in six regions.

At the same time, the tourism sector was mobilizing. Greece’s tourism minister, Olga Kefalogianni, organized an emergency meeting, and speaking to BBC radio on Monday encouraged visitors with bookings for Rhodes still to travel, because the fires affected only a small part of the island. Action was being taken, she said, to promote the island as “a uniquely beautiful and safe destination.”

But the worries far transcend Rhodes, and representatives of the sector were sounding an alarm.

“It’s raining cancellations,” Panagiotis Tokouzis, a vice-president of the Greek Tourism Confederation, said on Greek radio on Monday, adding that the issue did not concern only the islands. “The tourism of the entire country has been affected.”

The industry had already been suffering, Mr. Tokouzis said in an interview, with fewer tourists in Greece this year in May and June after months of high inflation and financial concerns around the world.

“Everyone was waiting for July and August to pick up,” he said. “Unfortunately this happened now.”

Though hotels on Rhodes largely suffered only exterior damage, according to local tourism representatives, Mr. Tokouzis said that 30 percent of bookings on the island had been canceled for the next two weeks, which meant millions in losses.

In the past few years, wildfires have ravaged many parts of Greece, from the seaside town of Mati , where fires in 2018 killed more than 100 people, to the northern part of the island of Evia in 2021 . This year, fires have spread on the island’s south, as well as in parts of Corfu , another popular tourist destination.

Figures from TCI Research, a travel data organization, suggest that past wildfires have caused only temporary drops in Greece’s online reputation. But as heat waves grow in extent and severity, and create more fire-friendly conditions , some tourism operators fear lasting damage.

Miltiades Chelmis, the head of the Hoteliers Association of Evia, said that in a country that relied heavily on tourism, the conditions, exacerbated by climate change, were a huge worry.

“If this situation continues like this, tourists will try to find cooler places to go,” Mr. Chelmis said. “Even the animals are moving away.”

Heat waves may “reduce southern Europe’s attractiveness as a tourist destination in the longer term or at the very least reduce demand in summer,” Moody’s, the ratings agency, said on Monday, predicting “negative economic consequences given the importance of the sector.”

According to a European Commission report published this year, in a world that reached four degrees Celsius of warming, tourism would drop by nine percent in the Greek Ionian Islands. In the same scenario, it would increase by about 16 percent in Western Wales.

On Saturday, guests at the villas that Mr. Tirelis manages in southern Rhodes, near the village of Kiotari, started sending him pictures of thick smoke coming from behind the hill in front of the property, which was covered in trees and bushes. Now that land is completely scorched, and all of August’s visitors have canceled their bookings. But Mr. Tirelis’s worries were not only about this summer.

“I am afraid also about the next year,” he said. “We don’t know how customers will feel about traveling to Rhodes when they hear about the big fire.”

Ion Gonos also rents homes to tourists near Kiotari — dazzling white villas with wide windows overlooking the sea and, until recently, a lush Mediterranean landscape. For the most part, the houses survived the fires, but the surrounding hill is now covered in ash. Mr. Gonos said he was very worried both for the environment and for his business.

“When someone goes on holiday they want to go a nice place,” said Mr. Gonos. “Now you only see dust.”

Yannis Tselios, 29, whose family also rents some villas nearby to tourists, and whose yard burned down in the fires, said he had so many cancellations that he has already decided to close for the year.

They were going to fix their properties before the next season, he added.

“But possibly it will not be the same,” he said. “We will not have the same forest again.”

In the aftermath of the 2018 fire in Mati, vacationers discussed on a TripAdvisor forum whether or not they should still book a hotel there. “It’s safe, but very sad,” one user wrote.

George Pappas, the manager of that hotel, the Cabo Verde, said that many tourists eventually came back, in part thanks to the village’s strategic position next to Athens and Rafina, the ferry port for several Greek islands.

Several tourists were oblivious of what had happened there, he said, but Dimitris Lymperopoulos, a bartender at the hotel, said that the atmosphere hadn’t completely recovered.

“There is a mood of sadness around here from what happened,” he said.

Five years on, he added, the nature was still not fully back.

“Trees take a lot of time to grow again,” he said.

Emma Bubola is a Times reporter based in London, covering news across Europe and around the world. More about Emma Bubola

Niki Kitsantonis is a freelance correspondent for The Times based in Athens. She has been writing about Greece for 20 years, including more than a decade of coverage for The Times. More about Niki Kitsantonis

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‘Without rules we cannot live’: Greece seeks ways to tackle ‘overtourism’

Residents of some Greek islands struggle with cost of living and environmental issues due to excessive tourist numbers.

Oia, Greece – As the mythical Greek summer season winds up, visitors pack the small, white-washed streets of one of the country’s most iconic destinations: the island of Santorini.

Tourism is a lifeblood of the Greek economy, accounting for about 25 percent of it, and 90 percent of Santorini’s economy is dependent on selfie-stick-wielding visitors.

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It has become a double-edged sword for Santorini as the island’s 15,000 residents can see up to two million yearly visitors. Placards placed around Santorini’s villages remind tourists to respect the homes and holy sites.

George Sarelakos, founder and president of Aegean Rebreath, an organisation working to protect the marine environment, told Al Jazeera that high visitor numbers also presented an increasing environmental risk to Santorini, particularly given the island’s lack of drinkable tap water.

“You can imagine all these thousands of tourists being on the islands, buying one or two bottles of water per day. We’re talking about a crazy amount of plastic that ends up at the bottom of the sea,” he said.

‘Not viable’

Aegean Rebreath has undertaken activities such as encouraging many of the luxury yachts which dock on the island for onboard recycling and has organised harbour-cleaning activities.

“I won’t forget the facial expression of the tourists when they saw a tonne of marine litter coming out from the harbour,” Sarelakos said.

He said it was essential drinkable tap water solutions were found to make the island more sustainable.

“We really believe as Aegean Rebreath that the path Santorini and other islands in Greece are on is not viable,” Sarelakos said.

With many Greeks earning only about 800 euros ($857) a month, rising costs have also meant some are priced out of popular tourist destinations with the average price for a hotel in Santorini being about 150 euros ($160).

Beach piracy

Paros, a Cycladic neighbour of Santorini which has a total of 12,000 permanent residents, saw 560,479 ferry arrivals in 2021 and has also had renewed focus on tourist footfall.

This summer locals protested against the swarms of privately owned sunbeds and parasols taking up large stretches of sand and charging about 100 euros ($107) for a set, leaving no space for others to use the beach.

Some businesses received permits to use the beach, but residents pointed out they often started putting loungers well beyond the agreed limits, meaning others could not lay their towels on the sand.

Christos Georgousis, a retired teacher and permanent resident of Paros, said residents were tired of the continuous occupation of swaths of sand by expensive sunloungers.

“Without rules, we cannot live. And these rules seemed to be flouted by the beach pirates,” he said, adding that the protests had so far largely been successful.

He said arrests had been made and action taken by the power of the residents’ protest with a Facebook group dedicated to “Saving Paros Beaches” made up of more than 12,000 members.

Struggling key workers

Paris Tsartas, professor of tourism development at Harokopio University of Athens, told Al Jazeera that the issue of “overtourism” was particular to a number of oversaturated destinations such as Santorini and Mykonos, presenting problems notably for key workers such as doctors who often struggled to find accommodation.

“The rents are sky high. And this is, of course, related to overtourism. So they prefer to rent their houses to the tourists, and not to the people who are involved in all these very vital sectors,” he said.

Tsartas said he expected overtourism to become a bigger headache in the next five to 10 years.

Meanwhile, Greece expects another bumper year for tourism.

Data from MarineTraffic, a ship tracking platform, revealed Mykonos hosted 209 cruise ships from June to August this year, a 35 percent increase from last year during the same period. June peaked with 72 arrivals.

Meanwhile, Santorini saw 203 vessels, with July leading at 74 arrivals.

Georgios Hatzimanolis, head of global communications at Kpler, which owns MarineTraffic, told Al Jazeera that this summer Mykonos averaged two cruise ships a day with peaks of six.

“This means, potentially 14,000 passengers could flood the tiny island in just one day,” he said, warning the island’s “already strained infrastructure” could buckle under the pressure.

“The surge in cruise tourism is not only an environmental concern but also threatens to tarnish Mykonos’ luxury reputation.”

Protecting the Acropolis

Efforts are already being made to tackle some of the potential harm of mass tourism.

At the country’s most iconic landmark, the Acropolis, there are plans to limit visitors to 20,000 a day with a timed ticketing system to tackle overcrowding and protect the historic site.

“Obviously, tourism is desirable for the country, for all of us. But we must work out how excessive tourism won’t harm the monument,” said Lina Mendoni, Greece’s culture minister.

Authorities have previously said tackling overtourism is a “top priority”.

Tsartas said authorities had increased efforts to tackle the issue, including campaigns encouraging people to visit other parts of Greece and throughout the year rather than just the busiest summer months.

Some steps already taken, such as individual destinations setting up their own organisations to deal with tourism, were helping the situation, he said.

“But the fact is that we should have had them 20 years ago,” Tsartas added.

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‘All omens look positive’: Greece is grateful as the tourists flock back

Not since the pre-Covid season, when 33 million holidaymakers visited, has business been as good

The buskers are out, hotels are full, archaeological sites are heaving, shopkeepers are smiling, and good luck if you want a table in a decent restaurant.

It might be April but Athens is alive to the sound of tourists. In all his years keeping watch over 1st-century BC ruins, Stelios Ballas, who is in his 50s, can barely recall so many visitors picking their way through the scattered antiquities of the Roman agora.

“These past few weeks have been something else,” he says from his guard’s cabin nestled under a plane tree. “I talk to some of them and they seem to be from everywhere. The thing is, do they have money and are they willing to spend it?”

Around the corner on Adrianou Street, the Greek capital’s oldest commercial thoroughfare, restaurateurs are not asking that question – for now. Not since 2019, when Greece attracted a record 33 million holidaymakers, has business been as good.

“If it goes on like this we’ll be talking about a brilliant year,” smiles Vassilis Stathokostopoulos, who runs the recently upgraded all-day bistro Ydria. “Perhaps it’s our new chef but people are not only coming, it’s clear that after everything we’ve all been through, they want to have a good time. And for that they’re willing to dig deep into their pockets.”

In a country so dependent on tourism – the sector accounts for 25% of Greece’s economic output and one in four jobs – the rebound has surprised even those who are in the business of being optimistic. Athens has seen more upheaval in recent years than other EU metropolises, hit first by a near decade-long financial crisis that made its streets synonymous with protests and riots before the coronavirus struck.

The pandemic-induced hiatus resulted in tourist revenues dropping from €18.2bn in 2019 to €4bn in 2020 when, in a record slump, the nation logged only 7 million arrivals. Although earnings from the industry exceeded €10bn, better than expected, last year when Greece opened its borders in May, they were still well short of pre-pandemic takings.

But this year, despite the unexpected spectre of war returning to Europe in the wake of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, industry figures are confident that recovery has finally come. For the first time since 2019 cruise ships are pulling into Greek ports – testimony, say industry officials, to the desire of travellers to put the pandemic behind them. Pre-paid flight bookings are also on the rise.

“All omens look positive,” says Andreas Andreadis, a former tourism boss and chief executive of the phenomenally successful Sani/Ikos group of luxury resorts. “For a few weeks after the start of the war in Ukraine demand dropped but since the end of March it has picked up and is now excellent.”

Holidaymakers, he says, are still less inclined given the spread of Covid to travel long-haul, preferring destinations in Europe. “And the truth is there are not so many options with quality destinations,” he says.

In an unprecedented step aimed at capitalising on the hunger of people to travel, the tourist season kicked off earlier in Greece this year. Last week, officials announced that pandemic restrictions, including the requirement of presenting an EU digital Covid certificate to enter the Mediterranean nation, would be lifted from 1 May and reviewed in September.

What was seen as Athens’ relatively successful handling of the pandemic last year has also helped revive the sector, despite public health authorities registering a sharp rise in Covid deaths since because of lower vaccination rates.

“The season has begun earlier than ever before,” says Vasilis Kikilias, the Greek tourism minister, noting that the first direct flight from the US, a key market for the economy, flew in on 7 March. “It’s a vote of confidence in our country.”

The decision to open earlier appears to have paid off: bookings soared over Easter. As Greeks also prepare to mark the holiday – returning en masse to their ancestral villages for the first time since the outbreak of the pandemic to celebrate the most important religious event in the Orthodox calendar – authorities say they show no sign of tapering off. Airlines, says Kikilias, are not only competing over slots to Greece this summer, but 765 cruise ships are lined up to anchor in ports around the country, with popular island destinations such as Mykonos, Kos and Corfu already drawing crowds.

“It’s a fact borne out by every study that people don’t just want to travel, they need to travel,” says Eugenios Vasilikos, the vice-president of the Panhellenic Federation of Hoteliers. “All the signs point to this being a very good year.”

By 2023, the capital will have acquired an additional 5,000 hotel rooms compared with 2019 when a city once bypassed for the islands managed to attract 5 million visitors.

The investment frenzy, evident in a construction boom now changing the face of downtown Athens, is also indicative of the hopes entrepreneurs have placed in the revival of Greece’s heavy industry.

But Vasilikos, at the hoteliers’ federation, concedes there is little room for complacency. The glimpse of a carefree world that has revisited Athens as tourists amble through its sites and streets is also fraught with the dangers inherent in a cost of living crisis and spiralling inflation rates being felt globally. Unions representing Greeks who earn some of the lowest wages in the European Union have taken to the streets.

“A few weeks ago I might not have been so optimistic,” he says of reservations in the capital. “All the data points to last-minute bookings in our hotels which while costs are rising also have some of the lowest price rates in Europe. People aren’t sure of anything any more. They wait until the last minute, and, in the last minute, anything can change.”

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W ith summer fast approaching, there are recently opened hotels and resorts in Greece to consider. From popular escapes such as Mykonos and Santorini to the lesser-known islands across the Aegean chain, here are five new Greek hotels worth checking out —and into.

10 Incredible Cruise Ship Features

For many years, the trend in cruise ship design has been that “bigger is better”—with vessels such as Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas setting new passenger records. But many cruise lines are also competing by offering innovative features to the high seas. From kart racing on multi-level courses to multiscreen movie theaters, here are some of the most incredible activities on cruise ships right now.

Disney World Earns Its First Michelin Star

Victoria and Albert’s at the Grand Floridian Resort—which has been a Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star restaurant since 2018—added a new star to its constellation this month: It became the first Disney restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star . Located at the Grand Floridian Resort at Walt Disney World, Victoria and Albert’s is known for its opulent Victorian era-inspired meals. A prix-fixe dinner is $295 per guest, with optional wine pairings starting at $155 per person. Unlike the rest of the theme park, a formal dress code is encouraged for all diners, who must be 10 years of age or older.

Golden visas—which grant residency and/or citizenship through an investment—may be disappearing from Europe, but many EU countries are now luring travelers with digital nomad visas, which grant travelers the legal right to work remotely for an extended period. Italy recently became the latest country to offer the visa and here are other EU countries with digital nomad visas .

America’s Best Airlines 2024

The personal-finance website WalletHub recently announced its annual ranking of the best U.S. airlines . The study evaluates the nine largest national airlines and one regional carrier across a range of criteria, including safety, on-time records and overall service. This year, Alaska Airlines was named the best airline in America, beating out Delta, which ranked first in 2022 and 2023. The survey also ranked U.S. carriers based on reliability and comfort.

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10 things I wish tourists knew before visiting Greece, from a local

• I'm from Athens, and I've seen plenty of tourists make mistakes while traveling to Greece .
• Pace yourself if you're planning on staying out at the bars and clubs all night.
• It's worth it to do some research on smaller islands and local cuisine before your trip.

Thanks to its ancient ruins, picturesque beaches, and incredible food, Greece is one of the top tourist destinations. In 2023, over 32 million people visited.

I was born in Athens and currently split my years living between the US and Greece , so I've spent plenty of time in the beautiful European country.

Here are 10 things I think tourists should know before visiting.

There’s so much more to see in Greece than the popular islands.

It seems like everyone visits Mykonos, Santorini, and maybe Paros, but Greece has over 220 inhabitable islands. Plus, most of them are more budget-friendly than the popular spots.

I recommend looking into places like Kimolos, Astypalaia, Paxoi (also known as Paxos and Paxi), or Folegandros.

The Greek mainland is also beautiful. There's a lot to see there, from UNESCO sites at Delphi and Meteora and the turquoise waters of the Peloponnese to the stunning mountains and villages of Epirus.

Athens is more than the Acropolis.

Athens has great nightlife , restaurants, museums, and cool neighborhoods like Plaka, Exarcheia, Psyrri, and Pangrati.

Tourists who just swing by to check the Acropolis off their list are missing out. I've always found it to be one of the liveliest cities in the world.

You don’t need to tip 20%.

Greek servers generally rely on hourly wages, so there isn't the same tipping culture as the US .

I normally just round up the bill or leave a couple of Euros on the table as a tip — unless I had exceptional service or dined at a more formal (and tourist-oriented) restaurant.

Pace yourself when drinking alcohol.

A lot of travelers take advantage of Greece's lax attitude toward alcohol restrictions. Coupled with the fact that Greek bars and clubs close pretty late (like 4 a.m. late), some tourists get sloppy.

Locals usually intersperse drinks with food and water so they can last the whole night, and I recommend tourists do the same.

Slow down and take Sundays off.

Greeks have a pretty relaxed relationship with time — people often arrive late and stores may open half an hour after they said they would.

Service in Greece can seem slow to people from more fast-paced places, especially on the quieter islands . A lot of stores and supermarkets are also closed on Sundays, even in Athens.

I know this can be annoying at times, but I recommend just enjoying the slower pace of life.

Don’t try to visit too many islands on one trip.

So many people ask me if they can fit four or five islands into a seven-day trip, and I never recommend it. Take your time and enjoy each destination for at least a couple of days.

Half the joy of the Greek islands is getting to destress. If you're hopping from ferry to ferry and running around to cover the highlights, you'll miss out on the best parts of the country.

Be sensitive about natural disasters.

I never thought I'd have to say this, but I have seen multiple tourists in the last few years posting about how "pretty" the skies or sunsets are thanks to the glow from raging wildfires .

At a time when a lot of Greek people are wondering if their houses are still standing or their loved ones have gotten to safety, it's a pretty insensitive thing to do.

Don't skip out on experiencing a traditional taverna.

Athens and other popular Greek destinations now have a lot of upscale restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. But make sure to eat in a traditional taverna at least once.

A taverna is a casual restaurant with family-style dining. Diners can spend hours in them chatting with friends while sharing food paired with some great wine or ouzo (a Greek aperitif).

Greek food is more than just gyros.

Well-known dishes like gyros and souvlaki are truly delicious, but Greek cuisine is so much more than that.

For example, a lot of Greeks start their day with a tiropita (cheese pie) and freddo coffee. Each region also has local specialties that I recommend inquiring about.

In tavernas, popular menu items include calamari, octopus, all kinds of fish, grilled and fried cheeses (like saganaki and halloumi), and side dishes like fava.

Learn a few local words.

Most younger Greek people understand English, but you may run into problems communicating with older people — especially in more rural areas.

Even if a local person can understand you, I think it's nice to learn a few simple words and phrases like "good morning," "thank you," and "how are you?"

It's nice when tourists make a little bit of an effort.

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I Stayed in Greece's First Mandarin Oriental Hotel — Here's What It Was Like

I n a quiet corner of mainland Greece, a glamorous new resort offers access to extraordinary treasures, both natural and archaeological.

When Petros Themelis first visited the ruins of Ancient Messene in 1986, there wasn’t much to see: only a few broken columns, strewn around the vineyards and olive groves, and some of the colossal foundations of the city’s fourth-century B.C. fortifications. Over the intervening millennia, whole sections of the city walls had been carted away for use in other buildings. Farmers had wrenched the metal from monuments to make tools and used broken statues and epigraphs to build walls to protect their flocks and crops. Gradually, a city that had flourished for 800 years was turned into a de facto quarry, then covered with earth and used as farmland. 

Widely acknowledged as a leading archaeologist of his generation, Themelis had already worked on some of Greece’s most famous ruins: the palace of Vergina, the sanctuary at Delphi, the stadium of ancient Olympia. Ancient Messene must have seemed like a backwater in comparison — a waterlogged valley in the southwestern Peloponnese , huddled against the slopes of Mount Ithomi. But as Themelis dug deeper, an incredibly sophisticated settlement came to light, just as the second-century A.D. travel writer Pausanias had described it. 

Related: The 100 Best New Hotels of the Year

Right around the time Themelis was beginning his dig, 40 miles to the south a very different type of project was breaking ground — one that would also alter the fate of this often overlooked region. There, a local shipowner was quietly laying the foundations for the most ambitious luxury tourism development in Greece. He gradually bought up huge parcels of coastal land in Messinia, with a master plan to create a modern landmark of a very different kind. 

Though I grew up in Greece, I had never been to Messene. So I was totally blown away by the scale, splendor, and masterful reconstruction of the 2,500-year-old city that stretched before me as I stood on the veranda of the only taverna in Ithomi, a sweet village shaped like an amphitheater overlooking the monuments.

Over the course of four decades, I learned, Themelis revealed and restored a city that was said to be larger than ancient Athens. The egalitarian urban plan included an amphitheater, a stadium, a gymnasium, a wrestling ring, a marketplace with colonnaded galleries, bathhouses, fountains, temples and sanctuaries, and an assembly hall where the city council deliberated. Today, the sheer ambition of the place is heightened by the remoteness of the setting — a landscape of hills in every conceivable shade of green, receding to the horizon. 

You can almost hear the roar of the crowds in the marble bleachers, smell the olive oil that wrestlers rubbed over their bodies until they glistened, picture the mosaic artists laying the intricate floors stone by stone, imagine the incense smoke from pyres where Pausanias witnessed “burnt offerings of every kind of living creature, thrusting into the flames not only cattle and goats but finally birds as well.” (Occasionally, when site-specific performances take place, visitors really can see artists at work and hear live music reverberating off the columns.)

When I visited last September, only a handful of people were rambling among the ruins. That week, the Greek government had limited the number of visitors at the Acropolis in Athens to 20,000 per day. It is extraordinary that Ancient Messene is so little known — just as it is hard to conceive that 40 years ago, it was nothing but muddy fields. Countless archaeological digs in Greece progress in slow fits and starts because of funding and staffing issues. Themelis, who died in October, was undaunted by such obstacles. First, he persuaded the state and other entities to buy land on and around the archaeological site from private owners. Then he secured European Union funding and recruited local farmers and craftsmen to supplement his small team of archaeologists and conservators. 

Themelis also reached out to benefactors to sponsor the excavations. One of those supporters was Vassilis Constantakopoulos, a self-made tycoon who went to sea at the age of 18 on an unpaid internship and ended up founding the largest private cargo-shipping company in the world. “Captain Vassilis,” as he is affectionately known, remained deeply committed to his homeland of Messinia, an agricultural region of the Peloponnese that’s known for its kalamata olives. 

Related: This Abandoned Winery in Greece Is Now a Luxury Resort

A lifelong environmental activist, Constantakopoulos formulated a plan to transform the region into a model for sustainable tourism. Starting in the mid 1980s, he slowly bought up almost 2,500 acres of land. His dream was not simply to create a beach resort or a playground for his other passion, golf; it was to regenerate the whole of Messinia through investment, vocational training, and a philanthropic foundation. The name of this new coastal development was Costa Navarino.

The first phase of this $1 billion project, Navarino Dunes, launched in 2010 with two large but low-slung hotels, a spa that uses olive oil in its treatments, and an 18-hole golf course. When I stayed there during the opening season, I was struck by how cleverly the construction blended into the shoreline, even though the highly polished atmosphere within the complex at times felt at odds with the rural, rough-around-the-edges surroundings. (At that time, tourism had barely made a dent in the silvery olive groves and golden dunes of the wider region.) “This is Avatar in Greece — paradise not yet found,” the golf architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. told me on that visit. “My golf course will be like walking into a Monet painting.” 

Fast-forward 13 years and surprisingly little has changed. Campers and pickup trucks still outnumber bus tours on the roads, and the clack of backgammon still beats time in shady village squares. Plenty of beaches are still blissfully lounger-free, and many locals still depend, at least partly, on Messinia’s 15 million olive trees for their livelihoods. 

However, a lot has happened at Costa Navarino. New hotels, golf courses, and recreational facilities have sprouted along the coastline, including the impetus for my return visit: Greece’s first Mandarin Oriental , the newest star in the constellation. As I alighted at the Mandarin’s curvaceous entrance, a handsome trio in straw hats and linens ushered me into a lobby with a profusion of plants, art books, and plump cocktail chairs. Floor-to-ceiling windows drew my eye toward a terrace poised above the glassy disk of Navarino Bay, one of Greece’s largest natural harbors. The world’s last naval battle fought with sailing ships took place there in 1827 — a turning point in the Greek War of Independence — but today, only a pair of paddleboarders rippled the water.

"Though I grew up in Greece, I had never been to Messene. So I was totally blown away by the scale, splendor, and masterful reconstruction of the 2,500-year-old city that stretched before me as I stood on the veranda of the only taverna in Ithomi, a sweet village shaped like an amphitheater overlooking the monuments."

All 99 suites and villas at the Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, have head-on views of the bay. Slotted into the hillside in rippling rows, the stone-and-cement buildings have rounded edges and “green roofs” covered with plants. Electric bikes and buggies purred up and down the lavender-scented paths to Ormos Beach Club, where futuristic floats were aligned in two sinuous pools and ranks of loungers were lined up in perfect symmetry on the raked sand. The international staff seemed to be everywhere all at once — refilling my dispenser of complimentary sunscreen, mixing me a peach daiquiri slushy, proffering a towel after I emerged from a dip off the jetty. 

From the water, it looked like a fleet of small spaceships had landed, but inside, the rooms felt like warm, silky cocoons. Rugs inspired by folk costumes, vintage engravings and textiles, and books related to the history and culture of the Peloponnese gave my villa a sense of place. But the true flavor of Messinia came from the kitchen. “I try to source products from within a thirty-mile radius,” said Bertrand Valegeas, the burly, smiley executive chef, as he talked me through all 10 dishes on the breakfast paramana — an upscale take on the meze tray brought to the table in traditional tavernas that lets diners pick whatever tickles their fancy. 

It required enormous restraint not to take everything: cold cuts with pickled okra, sheep-milk yogurt that tasted like whipped cream, warm pies, and irresistible petit fours. This sweet-and-savory smorgasbord appeared before I’d even glanced at the à la carte options, which included a sensational Greek spin on eggs Florentine with spanakopita stuffing and a feta-dill hollandaise.

Related: The Best Greek Islands to Visit, and Where to Stay on Them

After an afternoon of guided meditation and a meridian alignment in the spa, dinner at the flagship restaurant, Oliviera, was an elevated riff on Greek cuisine. Stuffed tomatoes had been transformed into a risotto swirled with smoked sfela, a local cheese made of sheep and goat milk cured in brine, and sardines swaddled in vine leaves and dotted with ouzo jelly. Even the cocktails, mixed tableside, had a Greek twist — a dash of tsipouro (Greece’s answer to grappa) in the martini or a feta emulsion in the Bloody Mary. 

Guests at the Mandarin Oriental can make use of a dizzying range of facilities and activities across

Costa Navarino’s properties — they can eat Peruvian or Japanese, hit up an escape room or open-air cinema, try yoga or yachting, wing foiling or wakeboarding. But the truly authentic side of Greece will only come into focus when they venture beyond the rarefied bubble of the resort. 

For those excited by history, Messinia is a thrill a minute: Neolithic settlements, Mycenaean palaces, classical temples, Byzantine churches, medieval castles, and Ottoman fortresses are scattered all around. The stones that made up the city walls of Ancient Messene were used to construct the seaside garrisons of Pylos, Methoni, and Koroni, a trio of pleasantly unspoiled towns, each guarded by its own heavily fortified castle. My favorite was Koroni, where everything from the flowerpots to the electricity meters in the lopsided alleys had been painted in bright colors. Real life seemed to take precedence over the trappings of tourism there. Within the castle’s walls are whitewashed cottages, a cemetery, and a nunnery — all but the cemetery still inhabited by living souls. Dinky wooden fishing boats supply the lively waterfront restaurants, but the thing to order is the crispy roast suckling pig at Café Synantisi, which has been a local hangout for generations. 

"Sprinkled with sea salt and slick with fruity olive oil, the tomatoes had been sun-ripened in the garden below the taverna’s terrace, which seemed to float above the ruins of Ancient Messene."

From the Mandarin Oriental, it’s an easy bicycle ride past the seaside strip of Gialova (worth a detour only for the excellent Anama restaurant) and the tantalizing sliver of Golden Beach. The coastal road peters out at a footpath, which follows the ragged cliffs up to the overgrown remains of a 13th-century fortress. I clambered over the ramparts and was suddenly teetering above Messinia’s most famous pinup: the perfect semicircle of Voidokilia Beach. The photogenic bay backs onto the Gialova lagoon, a habitat for hundreds of species of birds, with hiking and biking trails threaded through the reeds. 

Messinia is a habitat for hundreds of species of flora and fauna. “This biodiversity is very beneficial for our olive trees,” said Cristina Stribacu as we sniffed and swilled a selection of olive oils in the Mandarin Oriental’s Three Admirals Lounge. Fizzing with energy, Stribacu has won multiple awards for her extra-virgin Liá olive oil, extracted from the fruit of ancestral groves around Filiatra, a coastal town about 20 miles north of the resort. She and her brother Konstantinos are among a small group of young farmers hoping to revive the industry (most farmers in the region are well into their sixties). “I worry about who will produce our food ten years from now,” Stribacu said. “Smart, regenerative farming is very different from what our mom and dad did. Agriculture is also about entrepreneurship now. Otherwise, it’s not sustainable.” 

It’s an idea that circles back to Constantakopoulos’s original vision: to regenerate Messinia by preserving what has been there for generations, while creating new prospects for nearby communities. To this end, his charitable foundation has cofounded an agricultural entrepreneurship center to support the future of Messinian farming. One of its simplest initiatives is to protect rare local crop varieties, such as heirloom tomatoes. I’ve never tasted a sweeter, fleshier tomato than the Chondrokatsari variety served at the taverna in Ithomi. Sprinkled with sea salt and slick with fruity olive oil, the tomatoes had been sun-ripened in the garden below the taverna’s terrace, which seemed to float above the ruins of Ancient Messene. For the setting alone, Ithomi’s tomato salad just beat the San Marzano tomato marinara served at the Mandarin Oriental’s “omakase” pizza bar. There, elated by a flight of exceptional Italian wines, I tried eight different pies that were flipped, fired, and primped just a few feet away. 

In this surprising corner of Greece, I really could have it all: hospitality of the highest caliber, and a truly authentic experience. 

Costa Navarino: The Lay of the Land

With four branded resorts, four golf courses, dozens of bars, shops, and restaurants, and activities for all ages, Costa Navarino is one of the most ambitious tourism developments in the Mediterranean. It’s an easy 3½-hour drive from Athens or a 45-minute drive from Kalamata’s scrappy international airport—named after none other than Captain Vassilis Constantakopoulos. 

The two adjacent resorts at Navarino Dunes are primarily tailored toward families and golfers. The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort is a little more sedate than the Westin Resort, Costa Navarino , which features a water park, bowling alley, NBA basketball school, and a soccer camp. 

About six miles south, on the Navarino Waterfront, the Agora, a mall and street-food hub, is popular with both hotel guests and locals. The Agora is sandwiched between the W Costa Navarino and the Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino . A fifth cluster of resorts, Navarino Blue, is also in development, located on a sandy beach a 10-minute drive from Kalamata airport.

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2024 issue of  Travel + Leisure  under the headline "Of Sea and Stone ."

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Read the original article on Travel & Leisure .

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Gay travel guide: The best places to visit in Greece

LGBTQ+ travel is all about inclusivity, which is great because when you visit Greece, you truly get it all. Bustling city streets, islands full of queer nightlife, and quaint beachfront romance can all be part of your gay Greek travel experience.

Stunning landscapes and legendary hospitality prove that the inviting local culture is as warm as the sun-drenched beaches. From ancient history to vibrant modernity, you don’t need an archaeologist to discover the best places to visit in Greece.

Is Greece LGBT-friendly?

Greece offers a rich cultural tapestry that’s as diverse as its landscape. While this guide will focus on gay-friendly Greek destinations, there are places where LGBTQ+ travelers may not be as welcomed. It’s essential to familiarise yourself with local laws and customs.

Typically, small islands and rural locations in Greece are more conservative than touristic islands and large cities. While this is true in even the most progressive countries, it’s important to note that the Greek Orthodox Church has a significant influence on society. The church has also made its opinions on gender identity and sexual orientation well known with a clear opposition to LGBTQ+ rights.

Despite opposition from the church and some politicians, Greece recently became the first Orthodox nation to recognise same-sex marriage. The same legislation grants parental and adoption rights to same-sex couples.

While anti-discrimination laws in Greece protect LGBTQ+ locals and travelers, incidents of violence against the community continue to occur. Within a month of the celebrated bill confirming LGBTQ+ marriage and parental rights, an attack on two transgender people in Thessaloniki overshadowed the historic legislation. The advancement of gay rights in Greece doesn’t mean safety and acceptance are universally guaranteed across the country, especially for transgender travelers.

Exercise caution and discretion in smaller towns and conservative areas that are less touristy. While the public is generally open-minded, public displays of affection can draw unwanted and negative attention in many areas of Greece.

While it’s rare you will need them, here are some emergency numbers to keep handy while visiting Greece.

• Emergency: 112
• Ambulance: 166
• Tourist Police: 171

The best places to visit in Greece for gay travelers

I'm thrilled to recommend my favorite Greek destinations. From the well-known to local hidden gems, I have curated this list of the best places to visit in Greece with the LGBTQ+ traveler in mind. Of course, our community is as diverse and unique as the destinations themselves, and I’m certain there is something for all of us.

Thessaloniki

Greece’s second-largest city, Thessaloniki, is easily one of the best places to visit in Greece for any gay traveler. It quickly developed a reputation as one of Greece’s up-and-coming gay destinations and is especially popular with the lesbian community. Visitors of all backgrounds make their way to Thessaloniki for the laid-back atmosphere and coastal vibes that will put you instantly at ease.

The city is known as a cultural centre of Greece, is capital of the Macedonia region, and boasts a large student population. As you may imagine, this type of city boasts a popular nightlife, but there are stunning beaches in Thessaloniki and incredible sites from Roman, Byzantine, and mediaeval history.

Thessaloniki Pride is the highlight of the LGBTQ+ calendar in Thessaloniki. In 2024 the event is expected to break attendance records as Thessaloniki will be the official Euro Pride host city. The city won a bid to host the event in 2020, but it was sadly canceled that year.

With pent up anticipation, Thessaloniki is ready to launch Euro Pride on Friday 21 June with a long-awaited opening ceremony concert and full, ten-day calendar of festivities. The main event of Euro Pride will be the parade, fair, and closing concert on Saturday 29 June.

The Greek capital needs no introduction. Athens is steeped in history, art, culture, cuisine, and it’s as iconic as its namesake, Athena, herself. While it’s an obvious pick for a list of the best places to visit in Greece for gay travelers, it’s far from a basic one.

History lovers should climb the Acropolis and stand in awe of the Parthenon and ancient Greek monuments. The cobblestoned neighborhood below, Plaka, sits in the shadow of the Acropolis and feels like a small village with adorable cafes and cute shops. Do some souvenir shopping, stop for a meal, or visit one of the tavernas in this adorable part of the city.

If you’re looking for gay nightlife in Athens, head to Gazi, a neighborhood known for bars, cafes, and nightclubs that cater to the LGBTQ+ community. Athens is a natural starting point and a destination in Greece where the acceptance and progress of modern Greece resonates the strongest.

Since 2005, Athens has hosted a lively Pride Celebration in Klafthmonos Square. Athens Pride 2024 is slated for 14-16 June, one week before Euro Pride in Thessaloniki begins. Everyone loves a combo deal, and this makes 2024 perfect for visiting Greece’s capital and second-city for back-to-back weeks of Pride.

Long considered a playground for the gay community, Mykonos is the most popular Greek island for the LGBTQ+ tourists. The vibrant nightlife, open-minded locals, and picturesque landscape are the reasons why.

Chora, or Mykonos Town, the island’s capital and hub of attractions, is the place to stay if you want to be in the centre of the scene. It’s everything you imagine a Greek island city to be - a maze of streets lined by whitewashed cubic houses with bright blue wooden doors.

No trip to Mykonos is complete without a trip to Elia Beach. You’ll see why it’s named among the best gay beaches in Mykonos, Greece if not all of Europe. If you’re looking for a party you can find a plethora of beach bars including at LGBTQ+ venues. The gay nightlife in Mykonos is just as enticing, or you can sit in the shadow of the iconic Mykonos Windmills along Little Venice as the waves of the bay crash onto the walkway.

Finding gay and gay-friendly accommodation is not a problem in Mykonos, but expect to pay a premium on the island. This is especially true during late August when the party scene is flooded with LGBTQ+ tourists, especially gay men visiting the XLSIOR Festival. This international gay party attracts over 30,000 visitors and is taking place 22-28 August 2024.

It may not have the gay nightlife of Mykonos, but Santorini is a vibrant island paradise that should be atop your travel list. Santorini is a naturally formed volcanic island with breathtaking topography jutting up from the Aegean Sea. Popular with couples, the island is world-renowned for its sunsets and the best can be viewed from the northern city of Fira.

Santorini is home to ancient ruins, wineries, and colorful beaches. From the volcanic eruption that formed the island, different layers were exposed and gave way to the famous Black Beach, Red Beach, and White Beach. It won’t take long for you to see why Santorini is one of the best places to visit in Greece.

The stunning island of Sifnos is getting increasingly popular with travelers but until recently it maintained hidden gem status, known only to Greek locals. In fact, I never would have known about Sifnos until I tagged along on that family vacation with my Greek friend.

Despite its increased profile, Sifnos is one of the best places to visit in Greece for mellow island vibes and a relaxed atmosphere. Sifnos is an ideal escape for couples, rainbow families, and travelers seeking an affordable Greek island getaway.

On Sifnos, you’ll find remote beaches, cosy fishing villages, and well-maintained hiking trails. It’s also a great island to sample Greek cuisine. There are traditional tavernas and restaurants all over Sifnos and ample nightlife, especially in Apollonia, the island’s largest city. Don’t forget to visit local shops for souvenirs from Sifnos, because the island is famous for its pottery.

Even if it isn’t as well known to the gay community, Crete is one of the best places to visit in Greece. It’s full of exquisite dining, shopping, and history, so it truly has something for everyone.

LGBTQ+ travelers can feel safe in Crete, but exercise caution outside of the main cities. Still, Crete is full of resorts, beaches, and bars that welcome queer visitors. The main cities of Heraklion and Chania are especially LGBTQ-friendly destinations.

For couples, consider the city of Elounda, it’s one of the most romantic places in Crete.

How do I plan a gay holiday in Greece?

Before you sashay away to your Greek holiday, you may feel overwhelmed. LGBTQ+ Greece has been millennia in the making, and you’ve only been planning this trip for a minuscule portion of that time. Fear not - trip planning can often seem intimidating, but with some help, it can be an Aegean Breeze.

To ease your mind let’s cycle through some planning tips and address the most frequently asked questions about travel to Greece. Soon you’ll have everything sorted and a packed itinerary with the best places to visit in Greece ready to be discovered.

When is the best time to visit Greece?

It will come as no surprise that peak season, from mid-June through August, is the busiest tourist season in Greece. During this period, you should expect peak crowds, the warmest temperatures, and prices that match the increased demand.

The shoulder seasons, just before and after peak season, often provide great weather, lower crowds, and more affordable prices on flights and accommodation. Consider the periods of April through early June or September and October for shoulder season. You’ll enjoy outdoor activities without the summer heat and historical attractions with lower crowds.

Winter season from November through March offers mild temperatures with few crowds. Greece isn’t known as a winter destination, although you can enjoy ski resorts in the northern mountains. In this period you’ll experience a different side of Greece that many tourists don’t bother exploring.

Since ancient times, Greek culture has been full of celebrations and festivals. Lucky for you, this hasn’t changed and festivals are a great time to book a trip to gay Greece. Greek cultural, music, and religious festivals are held throughout the year and in June 2024 you can head to Thessaloniki Pride, which marks 2024 Europride.

How do I get to the best places to visit in Greece?

Most travellers from abroad begin their Greek holiday in Athens International Airport, but some of the most popular islands like Santorini and Mykonos have their own airports.

Once you arrive, you’ll discover that getting around is just as exhilarating as spending time in the best places to visit in Greece. You’ll find the Greek public transportation system reliable, organized, and convenient.

Trains and buses connect much of mainland Greece and ferries connect travelers to the sunny Greek islands. Be sure to plan ahead and pre-purchase transportation when possible. This is especially important when travelling between islands where there may be limited ferries or flights per day.

Even far-flung Greek destinations are reachable without a car, but a car hire is often the most efficient way to travel around Greece.

How do I use money in Greece?

In 2001 Greece adopted the Euro, which is convenient if you’re visiting other countries on the Euro. If it’s your first time visiting the country or you haven’t had a Greek vacation in some time, you may be wondering, “do I need cash in Greece?” The short answer is yes, but you can get by with a debit or credit card in most cases.

Card payment was not as common when I first visited Greece, but over the last decade, it’s become the most popular form of payment. Tipping is also customary in Greece and it’s expected to leave a 10-15% tip for excellent service. Having some cash handy for smaller establishments and tips is wise.

How do I prepare for a vacation in Greece?

English is widely spoken among the younger generations and staff you may encounter during your vacation in Greece. Still, learning some basic phrases will enhance your time in Greece and show that you’re embracing the local culture. The Greek people are warm and friendly, so greeting someone with “kalimera” (good morning) or “kalispera” (good afternoon) can go a long way.

Stay up to date on the local weather forecasts before you travel to Greece and pack accordingly. Summer weather in Greece can be incredibly hot, even at night. If you plan to visit churches, monasteries, or other sacred places during your trip to Greece, you’ll need modest clothing for these sites.

Remember to stay well-hydrated, especially in the summer sun or when consuming alcohol. You don’t want to miss a day of Pride fun in Thessaloniki because drinking in the June sun left you dehydrated. Tap water in Greece is safe to drink, but bottled water is also available for those who prefer it.

Follow these tips, bookmark this LGBTQ+ travel guide of the best places to visit in Greece, and you’ll have a Greek trip for the ages.

For more gay-friendly travel advice check out LGBTQ+ travel page.

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A British couple quit their hectic jobs and moved their family to a yacht docked in Greece.

And after ditching the 9-to-5 grind, they couldn’t be happier.

Laura and Ross Colledge decided to set sail because they worried their family was too disconnected.

“Ross was working 50-plus hours a week, and we were like ships in the night,” Laura told What’s the Jam.

“He felt our children’s formative years were slipping away before our eyes and he was missing so much.”

The parents wanted to provide “an exciting, adventurous, non-consumerist upbringing” for their children to “make them more worldly” while also accommodating their children’s “extra educational needs” — one of their sons has ADHD and is suspected high-functioning autistic.

So the family remortgaged their newly renovated house, bought a 2005 Bavaria 42 yacht they’d checked out a few months prior and moved to Greece in the summer of 2019.

The Colledge family started their journey in Mykonos, sailed through the Aegean and Dodecanese islands and eventually settled in the Ionian Islands.

“We have both been water babies as surfers and kayakers in Newquay for many years, so the ocean has always drawn us in,” Laura said of their previous life in southwest England.

The Colledges have been galavanting around the Greek islands for five years now and have loved their sojourning lifestyle — despite the unpredictability it adds to their lives.

“Sailing life is very changeable, so getting a work/life balance is tricky,” Laura admitted.

“Maintaining any kind of routine is a challenge. You have to be able to ‘go chameleon’ when the weather or other circumstances demand a change of plan.”

Ross is captain of the family’s boat, while Laura is the first mate and both of them are directors of BoatFit , an online health and fitness site, and Sailing Holly Blue , which chronicles their water-bound adventures — including some done in the nude .

Noah is currently homeschooled and Josh attends an online virtual secondary school as they sail, making friends of all ages from all around the world.

“Once we achieve residency here in Greece, we plan to spread our wings further afield,” Laura said.

The family plans to eventually upgrade to a bigger boat when the boys get too big for their current vessel but, in the meantime, have added many additions to their boat to better accommodate the family.

“We’ve included solar power, lithium-ion batteries, a watermaker and other mod-cons that mean we can live completely off grid, utility bill-free and self-sufficient if we choose,” Laura said, noting that most of the renovations have been made possible by collaborating with sponsors from their social media accounts.

As for their mental health, the mom says there’s “nothing more grounding than being so close to nature and at the mercy of elements.

“All other things become so trivial,” Laura said.

“And relationship-wise, you will soon learn if the person you are with is your soulmate. Sailing life is a 24/7 pressure cooker at times, and you not only have to learn to pick your battles but also where you will and will not compromise,” she added.

“Your relationship deepens to an incredible level and your respect — as well as admiration for each other — strengthens, too.”

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Royal Couple Announces Divorce: "Thank You Very Much for Your Respect and Discretion."

Prince Nikolaos and Princess Tatiana of Greece shared news of their separation this week.

"Prince Nikolaos and Princess Tatiana, after fourteen years of living together, have decided to dissolve their marriage," the statement reads. "Both express the difficulty of this decision, the deep appreciation and respect they have for each other, but also the love with which they have walked all these years. The same values ​​of respect and understanding will form the basis of their relationship in the future, a relationship of deep and sincere friendship."

They do not have any children together and plan to "continue to live and be active in Greece, the place they both feel at home."

The statement ended with: "Thank you very much for your respect and discretion."

The news comes just a few weeks after Nikolaos and Tatiana appeared together in the UK for a memorial event honoring Nikolaos's father, King Constantine, the last king of Greece, who passed away at the age of 82 in January 2023 after treatment in an intensive care unit.

Notably, Prince William unexpectedly missed a planned appearance at the service of thanksgiving for his godfather, with the Palace citing a personal matter as the reason. Even though a Palace aide added that Kate “ continues to be doing well ” following her abdominal surgery, William's absence only spurred on rumors regarding Kate's health, speculation which was only put to rest after she announced her cancer diagnosis in a personal video message.

As the digital director for Town & Country, Caroline Hallemann covers culture, entertainment, and a range of other subjects 

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U.S. tourist faces 12 years in prison after taking ammunition to Turks and Caicos

An Oklahoma man faces up to 12 years in prison on a Caribbean island after customs officials found ammunition in his luggage.

Ryan Watson traveled to Turks and Caicos with his wife, Valerie, to celebrate his 40th birthday on April 7. They went with two friends who had also turned 40.

The vacation came to an abrupt end when airport staff members found a zip-close bag containing bullets in the couple's carry-on luggage. Watson said it was hunting ammunition he had accidentally brought with him — but under a strict law in Turks and Caicos, a court may still impose a mandatory 12-year sentence.

"They were hunting ammunition rounds that I use for whitetail deer," Watson told NBC Boston in an interview conducted last week that aired after their first court appearance Tuesday.

"I recognized them, and I thought, 'Oh, man, what a bonehead mistake that I had no idea that those were in there,'" he said.

The couple were arrested and charged with possession of ammunition. Authorities seized their passports and explained the penalties they faced.

Valerie Watson said in the interview: "When I heard that, I immediately was terrified, because I was like we can't both be in prison for 12 years. We have kids at home, and this is such an innocent mistake."

The charges against her were dropped, and she returned home to Oklahoma City on Tuesday after the court hearing to be reunited with her two young children.

"Our goal is to get Ryan home, because we can’t be a family without Dad," she said.

The couple also spoke about the financial burden of a much longer-than-planned trip. "This is something that we may never recover from," Ryan Watson said.

The U.S. Embassy in the Bahamas issued a warning to travelers in September about a law that strongly prohibits possession of firearms or ammunition in Turks and Caicos, an overseas British territory southeast of the Bahamas that is a popular vacation spot.

It said: "We wish to remind all travelers that declaring a weapon in your luggage with an airline carrier does not grant permission to bring the weapon into TCI [Turks and Caicos Islands] and will result in your arrest."

The embassy added: "If you bring a firearm or ammunition into TCI, we will not be able to secure your release from custody."

The embassy and the government in Turks and Caicos did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

The same thing happened to another American, Bryan Hagerich, of Pennsylvania, who was arrested after ammunition was found in his luggage before he tried to board a flight out of Turks and Caicos in February. He said he accidentally left it in his bag.

Hagerich was on a family vacation with his wife and two young children but has now been in the country for 70 days. He spent eight days in prison before he posted bail.

"It’s incredibly scary. You know, you just don’t know what the next day may bring — you know, what path this may take," Hagerich told NBC Boston.

"You know, it’s certainly a lot different than packing your bags and going away with your family for a few days. It’s been the worst 70 days of my life," he said.

Hagerich, once a professional baseball player, was drafted by the Florida Marlins in the MLB 2007 June amateur draft from the University of Delaware.

His case goes to trial May 3.

Patrick Smith is a London-based editor and reporter for NBC News Digital.

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