hvar tourist info

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Ultraswim 33.3

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Treat yourself with Hvar

Say Yes in Hvar

A walk full of culture

Hvar: holiday for the body, mind and soul

Feel the local pulse!

Offroad to the vineyard!

An encounter with world cultural heritage

Something for every season!

Delicious dates with the sea

Capital of gastronomy and oenology

• Cultural Sights
• Museums & Galleries

The city of Hvar is a unique fusion of luxurious Mediterranean nature, rich cultural and historical heritage, and mundane, tourist present.

• Nautical Tourism
• Other Adventures

Visiting untouched lagoons around Hvar plays a great role in enjoying your holidays. These can be reached by boat, car, bicycle, or inspiring walks through the Mediterranean landscape.

• Where to stay
• Visiting Hvar
• Cultural Heritage

• Eat, Drink & Have Fun

Good food is a part of Hvar's tradition. A healthy, light food, seasoned with home-made olive-oil and a pinch of herbs, accompanied by a glass of good wine, is a reason why people of Hvar live long and look so vigorous.

The Complete Hvar Island Travel Guide

This Hvar Island Travel Guide will help you plan a visit to this great Croatian island whether you plan a short day trip from Split or a longer stay in Hvar, Croatia.

Hvar is the most famous of all Croatian islands . It is best known for its turquoise waters, lavender fields, 2.800 hours of sunshine a year, good nightlife, and as a summer refuge for the rich and famous.

We also like it for its history and culture, lovely countryside, hidden bays, tasty food, and great local wines.

With a surface of 300 m2, it is the fourth-largest Croatian island.

Hvar Island is located in central Dalmatia, off the coast of Makarska Riviera on the mainland, and between the islands of Brac, Vis, Korcula, and Peljesac peninsula.

Hvar Town, Vrboska, Stari Grad, and Jelsa are the most popular towns on the island. Beautiful nature, a good tourist infrastructure, lovely beaches, tons of history, and good nightlife are some of the reasons to visit Hvar. From historical old towns dating back to ancient times to lovely pebbly beaches, and natural beauties, Hvar Island is a wonder to be discovered.

Table of Contents

Map & location

The island stretches for just over 68 km from northwest to southeast. And, it’s the longest Croatian island.

Hvar Town is the largest settlement on the island and the island’s administrative center.

The northwest part of the island is rich in freshwater springs, and thus fertile, while the rest of the island is rather dry.

Below you’ll find a google map of the island.

Best Time to Visit Hvar Island

The best time to visit Hvar is from June through October.

While July and August are the peak season in entire Croatia, Hvar is particularly crowded and accommodation prices are quite high. The average sea temperature is 25°C / 77°F, and the air temperature is 30°C / 86°F.

If you visit Hvar in June or September, you will be able to enjoy swimming and sunbathing with the sea temperature above 20° / 68°F (the average is usually around 22°-23° / 72°F-73°F) and the average air temperature is around 26° / 79°F.

Hvar Island Travel Guide: Best towns

Hvar Town, Vrboska, Stari Grad, and Jelsa are the most popular towns on Hvar Island. Choosing the best place to stay on Hvar island depends on multiple factors, like how many days you plan to stay here, how budget-minded you are, whether would you travel by car, do you plan on staying in one place, or traveling around, and so on.

If you want to see and be seen and don’t mind paying a premium for that pleasure, choose Hvar Town. Otherwise, choose Vrboska, Stari Grad, or Jelsa if you prefer a quieter, more laid-back vibe that is also lighter on your wallet.

Hvar Town is the largest, best-known, and most-visited town on the island. The most attractive destination on the island, it is also the most expensive place to stay. The town boasts a myriad of beaches, hotels, restaurants, historical buildings, and cultural monuments, as well as the best nightlife on the entire island.

Stari Grad is the oldest settlement on the island. The town is located along the long, deep bay with the old town at its end. The old town consists of traditional stone houses, cobblestone streets, and numerous churches. The most interesting monument is Tvrdalj Castle, a palace from the 16 th century. Beaches aren’t Stari Grad’s forte, but nevertheless, it’s a popular summer destination.

Located in the center of the island’s northern shores, Jelsa has lovely beaches ( some of them sandy! ), a good choice of private accommodation, and a variety of sports facilities, restaurants, and bars. It’s a good alternative to Hvar town for those looking for more affordable accommodations and a quieter vibe.

If you fancy quaint villages, consider Vrboska, Milna, Sveta Nedjelja, or Sućuraj.

Reasons to visit the Island

Hvar is one of the most visited Croatian islands for a reason. It’s stunningly beautiful, with good tourist infrastructure, lovely beaches, tons of history, and good nightlife.

The first thing you’ll notice on the island is its breathtaking nature and the scents of wild herbs filling the air. Island’s beaches are one of a kind, and a great reason to visit Hvar. And so is the island’s rich historical and cultural heritage, including churches, palaces, plains, cobblestone streets and squares, and fortresses. People make places, and one of the reasons to visit Hvar is its warm and friendly people.

Natural beauty

After hearing of so many celebrities visiting the island, you might imagine it all glitz and glamor, but it’s far from the truth. Our number one reason to visit the island is actually its stunning nature.

The island, out of the main tourist resorts, is pretty intact. Wild herbs perfume the air wherever you go. The wild oregano left the deepest impression on us on our last visit here, back in May. We even brought some home and planted them in our garden. Fingers crossed they survive Istrian winter [2021 Update: it didn’t survive – *sad face*].

Island’s beaches are one of a kind. And if beach hopping is your kind of vacation, then Hvar might just be the right destination in Croatia to visit.

With a length of 250 km, the island’s coastline offers ample possibilities for swimming, and a wide range of beaches: rocky, pebbly, and even sandy beaches.

And while the island is super-popular, and gets loads of tourists over the summer, you can still find your little (semi)private spot by the sea.

Obviously, this won’t happen on the most popular beaches in and around main towns, like Jelsa, Stari Grad, and Vrboska. But take a drive east, to less popular corners of the island, and you’ll discover many coves, bays, and beaches where very few fellow tourists wander.

Also, the sea here is so clean and has a special glittering color.

History & Culture

Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Croatians, Venetians, Austrians, French, and Italians, all ruled the island throughout history, and they all left a trace in the island’s architecture, culture, and food.

Agricultural land in Stari Grad plains, UNESCO World Heritage Site , is still divided following the same pattern that the Greeks laid down almost 2500 years ago.

Hvar theatre, constructed in 1612, is one of the oldest theatres in all of Europe.

So, wherever you go on the island, you’ll encounter something of historical value.

Cobblestone streets, centuries-old squares, churches, and palaces dotting major towns and villages on Hvar are all witnesses of the island’s long history.

There is a common belief among Croatians, that people living on islands are special. Not in a bad or good way, just simply different than people living on the mainland.

However, for some reason, I found people on Hvar, to fit me perfectly. I found them warm, welcoming, open, funny, and very direct in communication. People make places, and one of the reasons to visit Hvar is its warm and friendly people.

What to see in Hvar, Croatia

From historical old towns dating back to ancient times to beautiful pebbly beaches, and natural wonders, Hvar Island is a wonder to be discovered.

Hvar Town is the most popular town on the island and a must-see place. Dubovica Beach is a lovely cove with clear water perfect for snorkeling. Stari Grad Plain is a historical landmark set by the Greeks in the 4th century BC, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. An archipelago of twenty-something islands, Pakleni islands are a true wonder of nature and an inevitable stop when in Hvar, Croatia. Established in 384 BC by Greek colonists, Stari grad is one of the oldest continuous settlements in all of Croatia.

The most popular town on the island, Hvar is simply gorgeous and a must-see on your trip here. Dominated by a large town square that features an Arsenal building, St. Stephen Church, and a small port, the old town is encircled by protective walls from the interior and overlooked by the 16 th -century Spanish Fort ( Fortica ). Today, Fortica is a popular tourist spot, and it offers lovely views over the town, the sea, and the Paklinski Islands. For even better views (and fewer tourists), hike or drive up to Napoljun fortress atop Saint Nicolas hill.

Dubovica Beach

Dubovica Beach is a lovely cove with clear water perfect for snorkeling. This lovely beach is a must-visit! The parking, aside from the main road, is limited, and you need to walk to reach the beach from the road. However, it’s well worth the effort. The beach is secluded, made of small rounded pebbles, and while it is off-the-beaten-path, it still gets quite busy. There are two beach bars/restaurants serving drinks and food. The shade is limited, but dips in clear blue Adriatic should keep you cool. It gets crowded in high season.

Stari grad Plain

Unesco World Heritage Site since 2008, this fertile agricultural land, east of Stari Grad, has been cultivated since ancient times. In fact, it still keeps the same layout, as set by the Greeks in the 4 th century BC. Cycle or take a ride through this maze of plots, planted mainly with grapes, olives, and veggies, and divided by dry stone walls.

Pakleni Islands

An archipelago of twenty-something islands, Pakleni islands are a true wonder of nature and inevitable stop when in Hvar, Croatia. The islands are gorgeous, surrounded by turquoise waters, and full of hidden beaches, calm bays, and a few restaurants and bars here and there – a perfect spot to spend a day swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, or just chilling by the sea. The most popular places include Palmižana, located on St. Clement Island, Jerolim Island with its nude beaches, and Marinkovac with the famed Carpe Diem Beach Club.

Established in 384 BC by Greek colonists, Stari grad is not only the oldest settlement on the island, but one of the oldest continuous settlements in all of Croatia, and even in all of Europe. The old town is lovely, with its rich history, numerous churches, palaces, and cobblestone streets. Don’t miss a visit to the Tvrdalj, a former summer residence of a renaissance poet Petar Hektorovic dating back to the 16 th century.

Things to do

The majority of tourists visit Hvar to enjoy water activities including swimming, snorkeling, boating, SUP, kayaking, and other fun-under-the-sun things to do in Hvar. Hvar offers many things to do for curious travelers.

Plan a half-day or full-day wine tour of the island! Take some time to explore abandoned villages in Hvar’s interior. Go hiking and immerse yourself in the scents of rosemary, lavender, and wild oregano. Sample local cuisine!

There are many ways to get to know Hvar Island and one of them is to get to know it through its wines. Wine has been a major part of the island’s economy and lifestyle ever since ancient Greeks arrived on the island, back in the 4 th century BC. And it’s as important today, as it was back then.

Plan a half-day or full-day wine tour of the island! You can easily do it on your own, but we believe having a local guide/driver makes it so much better. A guide can give you an introductory tour, answer all your questions, and best of all, you can indulge in wine tasting all you want as you won’t need to drive. Check out this 3-hour wine-tasting tour!

Popular wine producers are Zlatan Otok, Tomić Wines, PZ Svirce, Plancic Brothers, and others. Popular sorts include red Plavac mali (Zinfandel’s offspring very popular in mid and southern Dalmatia), and pošip , a white grape native to the island of Korcula, but planted now all over southern and central Dalmatia.

Abandoned villages

Like in other Croatian coastal regions, the locals haven’t resided in coastal towns back in the past. Believe it or not, our ancestors preferred the safety, and coziness, of mountainous interiors. They were farmers who lived off livestock, and crops. And the villages developed around fertile interiors.

But first with phylloxera, and later with industrialization and development of the modern-day tourism industry, people started migrating to the coast (or further away), abandoning their old villages, and the old way of life.

Today, these villages, although abandoned, and for a major part uninhabited, still, witness our past. When on the island, take some time to explore some of those villages. Our favorite places include Malo Grablje and Humac.

Chase authentic island scents

I’ve visited many Croatian islands, including Brac , Vis, Korcula, Elafiti , Mljet, Cres, Krk, Lošinj, Murter, Pag, Kornati, and Lastovo, but I have never felt such wonderful scents as I did on Hvar Island. Maybe it was a time of the year we’ve visited that contributed to this (we’ve been there in May when all nature awakens), or it’s really a “Hvar thing” , but I highly recommend everyone visiting the island to take a hike in nature immersed in the scents of rosemary, lavender, and wild oregano.

This small group tour takes you through Hvar’s lavender fields.

Sample local cuisine

Typical dishes here don’t differ much from the rest of Dalmatia, with few exemptions, like gregada , a fish stew typical for Hvar. Island’s dietary pattern is simple: based on boiled veggies, fresh fish, and everything soaked (yes, soaked. not sprinkled) in olive oil. For typical comfort food, head to Kokot in Dol, Stori Komin in Malo Grablje, or tavern Kod None in Svirče.

Sail to Paklinski Islands

A wonderful archipelago just off the coast of Hvar Town, Paklinski Islands are a must-visit natural site on Hvar Island. Explore hidden coves and beaches, hop from one islet to another, stop for a dip in the sea, snorkel, sunbathe, have a picnic, or chill out in one of the beach bars. Paklinski Islands are easy to visit from Hvar, just hop on a taxi boat, rent a kayak, or for the ultimate experience book a half-day sailing tour to Paklinski Islands .

Visit Vis Island and Blue Cave

Croatia has so many islands that it would take a lifetime to properly visit and experience them all. So, if you have a chance to easily visit more than one island while in Croatia, just do it! If you are staying in Hvar for more than a couple of days, visit also Vis and Bisevo’s famed Blue Cave. Many local companies offer a speedboat tour to Vis and Blue Cave . Although a visit to Blue Cave is short, just a couple of minutes, it is well worth a trip. The color of the water is mesmerizing, and it is just an overall amazing feeling to go inside the sea cave. Vis Island, on the other hand, is a wonder on its own, full of hidden coves, small pebbly beaches, amazing food, and historical intrigues.

Accommodation

Hvar is a popular tourist destination with good infrastructure and a variety of accommodations: from hotels to private apartments, villas, youth hostels, and even camping.

The main tourist season stretches from late June to early September, with the last week of July, and two weeks of August being the peak season.

Accommodation prices skyrocket at this time. So if you want to stretch your dollar, our suggestion would be to visit the island in the second half of September or early October , when the weather is still nice, the sea is warm enough for swimming, and crowds are fewer.

Another piece of advice we can give you is to book your accommodation as early as possible . Similar to airline tickets, accommodation prices also increase with the demand, as there is less inventory on the market. This means that the earlier you book, the cheaper price you will pay.

The most popular booking site in Croatia is Booking.com . You can search for your accommodation there, as they have the largest inventory for short-term rentals and hotels in Croatia .

If you book using Booking.com, book a room with a flexible cancelation policy . This way, if your plans change, you can simply cancel your booking. Also, if for some reason, at any time, your hotel runs a promotion, you’ll be able to cancel your previous booking and secure a better deal.

For private apartments, besides Booking, check also Airbnb.

Best places to stay

Amfora Grand Beach Resort is the largest hotel on the entire island (330 rooms). Overlooking the sea, and Beach Club Hvar, this 4-star hotel features a large outdoor swimming pool, onsite buffet, a la carte restaurants, a beach, and pool grill and bar, as well as Sensori SPA center. The rooms are a bit dated, and on the smallish side, but nevertheless, they are comfy and clean. Not all rooms feature a balcony, so paying extra for the sea-facing room with the balcony is worth the money. Prices range from 155 € in the low season to 400 € in the peak season.

Adriana Spa Hotel , run by the same hotel company as Amfora, is a small, boutique hotel located in the center of Hvar Town, at the seaside promenade.  Hotel Adriana features 62 rooms, and excellent wellness and spa facilities including a seawater rooftop indoor swimming pool. Views from the rooms on higher floors are awesome. Daily prices for a double room with breakfast range from 173 € in April and November to 500 € from June to September.

B&B Heritage Villa Apolon

A lovely B&B Heritage Villa Apolon , housed in a historical villa in Stari Grad, features six rooms, an onsite restaurant, and a wine bar. The rooms are very spacious, well-equipped with all mod cons, and beautifully restored keeping many original elements like wooden beams, exposed stone walls, etc… Expect to pay for a double room with breakfast anywhere between 180 € to 240 € a day.

Villa Riva , a seafront property in Jelsa, features one double room and two studio apartments. Apartments are modern, stylish, and comfy but they still maintain the character of this traditional stone building. Prices start at 95 € per day for a double room.

If you like unique accommodation, Heritage Suites Zanini delivers it! Studio and apartments are housed in a beautiful 15th-century palace. Both, the interior and exterior are wonderful. The units feature a fully-equipped kitchen, living and sleeping area, and a full bathroom. Exposed wooden beams, brick walls, and ceramic floors only add to the Heritage Suites Zanini charm. Prices start from 180 € in the low season to 390 € in the peak season.

Food and Restaurants

If you spent some time here on our blog, you already know that we love food. Whether we eat at top-notch fine dining restaurants or humble local eateries, they all have one thing in common: they use fresh local ingredients to turn them into divine dishes.

We find that on the island of Hvar, your best bet when it comes to food is to go with traditional-dishes, and more often than not to look for traditional eateries called “konoba”; this means grilled fish, and meat with side dishes like Swiss chard, zucchini fritters, or French fries; octopus or meat with veggies, baked in a pot covered with embers, called peka ; gregada , a typical fish stew from the island.

Below you’ll find a few recommended restaurants, and more to follow in a separate blog post.

Must-try restaurants

Konoba Kokot, Dol: This family-run tavern is best-known for meat dishes, particularly for lamb meat. It’s a place to try peka , one of the most popular dishes in Croatia . But also don’t miss on yummy goat cheese made by the owner’s mum.

Stori komin, Malo Grablje: tucked away at the edge of the abandoned village of Malo grablje, Stori komin is a great place to unwind, and taste traditional Dalmatian comfort food. You can hike there, or take a small road from the village of Milna to reach Malo grablje. The food is honest, well-prepared, and tasty. Try their veal and lamb chops.

Konoba Vrisnik, Vrisnik: This family-run tavern is one of our favorite places to eat on the island. The food is authentic, freshly made, and super tasty, and the service at this local tavern is superb. Here, people come for grilled fish and meat, but also for some old island’s dishes that you can hardly find anywhere else anymore. Vrisnik, along with the neighboring villages of Vrbanj and Pitve, is also the home of some good Hvar wineries. Combine a visit to the tavern tavern Vrisnik with a visit to a couple of local wineries like PZ-Svirce, or Plancic Winery.

Oaza in Milna: Just a stone’s throw away from the beach, Oaza is a true gem meant for hedonists. The food is always fresh, tasty, and the restaurants offer great value for money. They serve anything made on a wood-burning grill, from meat, fish, and seafood, to yummy veggies soaked in olive oil. Love their zucchini fritters!

Konoba Zbondini, Velo Grablje: Once the center of rosemary and lavender production on the island, Velo Grablje today is almost completely abandoned. However, a few years ago Tudor family returned to the village to open konoba Zbondini. This lovely tavern with rustic interiors and a breezy terrace offer traditional Dalmatian dishes prepared using only fresh, local ingredients.

Where to find the best beaches

When I think of Hvar, I can’t but think of the gorgeous sea, limpid, and calm, with lovely turquoise colors that simply draw you in to take a few laps or to just float endlessly.

Gromin Dolac, Jagodna, Mekicevica, Pokonji Dol, Zecja, Veliki Pokrivenik, Dubovica, Ivan Dolac, and Vela Stiniva might sound incomprehensible to you, but they are some of the most beautiful beaches on the island, and you better learn these names fast.

Just like elsewhere in Croatia, Hvar beaches are mostly rocky, and pebbly. The nicest secluded bays take a boat ride to reach or a walk in the heat, but they are all worth it.

The southern side of the island is home to some of the best beaches on Hvar island. South-east of Hvar Town, the steep shores of Zaraće, Sveta Nedilja, Ivan Dolac, and Gromin Dolac, all abound in lovely pebbly beaches; some with pebbles so tiny that they almost feel like sand.

Pakleni Islands consists of many small islands and lovely bays that make for favorite swimming spots among locals and tourists alike.

Hopeless sand beach enthusiasts head either to Jelsa  or to Sucuraj . Both towns have sandy beaches in the vicinity.

Bars, Clubs & Nightlife

The island has an infamous reputation for offering a restless, fun, crowded, and wild nightlife. In reality, this only happens in Hvar Town. And it only happens in the high season.

Carpe Diem, Hula Hula, Kiva, and Ka’Lavanda all offer day and night partying, cocktails, DJs, and good vibes. They are also all pricey. Many Hvar beach clubs are popular spots for after-beach parties.

And if your ideal holidays don’t include a load of the loud, overexcited alcohol-infused twenty-something years old, head somewhere else on the island like Jelsa or Stari Grad.

Traveling to Hvar Island

Split and Dubrovnik airports are the closest airports to Hvar island. However, regardless of the way you travel to and around Croatia, sooner or later you’ll need to board a ferry or catamaran, or just a boat, to reach the island.

If you travel to Hvar from other parts of Croatia, like Zagreb, Istria, or Zadar, you’ll need first to reach Split, Drvenik, or Dubrovnik to catch the ferry for the island.

And finally, you can book a private or shared boat transfer. For more information check the Bookaway or Get Your Guide .

The easiest way to reach Hvar Island is from Split. The Split ferry port is conveniently located just across the bus station, a few minutes walk from the old town. Three ferry companies connect Split with Hvar Island by ferry and fast-speed catamarans: Jadrolinija, Kapetan Luka, and TP Line. A car ferry, operated by Jadrolinija, sails exclusively from Split to Stari Grad on Hvar Island, and the journey takes approximately 2 hours. Fast-speed catamarans connect Split with Hvar Town, and the journey lasts around 50 minutes. You can check availability and book your tickets online here.

We have the complete guide on how to reach Hvar from Split !

A Day Tour from Split to Hvar

Many readers ask us if it’s worth taking a day tour from Split to Hvar . The answer is Yes! You can do it on your own, especially from June through September when there are many ferry crossings between the two throughout the day. However, it might just be easier and more convenient to book a small group tour from Split. Below you can find a few boat tours that we recommend.

From Dubrovnik

In high season Dubrovnik serves as one of the main gateways to Hvar Island. The best way to reach Hvar from Dubrovnik is by catamaran that runs daily from April through October.

Catamarans are operated by Jadrolinija and Kapetan Luka companies, and each has a slightly different route.

Jadrolinija’s catamaran runs daily from the second week of June to the last week of September. It departs from Dubrovnik at 7 am and arrives at Hvar at 10.30 pm. It also stops in Korcula, and after Hvar, it continues to Bol on Brac Island, and further to Split. The return trip departs from Hvar at 5.55 pm and arrives in Dubrovnik at 9.25 pm. A one-way ticket costs 45 € per person.

Kapetan Luka’s catamaran runs daily from April through October. It departs from Dubrovnik at 4.15 pm (Sept., Oct.: 4 pm) and arrives in Hvar at 7.30 pm (Sept., Oct.: 7.10 pm). This catamaran also stops in Pomena on the island of Mljet, and Korcula before arriving at Hvar, and then continues further to Milna on the island of Brac, and Split. The boat leaves Hvar for Dubrovnik at 8.40 am, and it arrives in Dubrovnik at 11.55 pm. A one-way ticket costs 45 € per person. You can book a seat online here!

From other places

Car-ferry also connects Sucuraj on the island with Drvenik near Makarska, Croatia . A car ferry runs 6 times a day in winter and as many as 11 times a day in summer. Sucuraj is at the far end of the island compared with other towns. Jelsa is approx. 50 km away from Sucuraj, and  Hvar Town is almost 80 km away.

However, a ferry crossing from the mainland takes only 35 minutes (compared with 120 minutes from Split to Stari Grad). A one-way ticket costs 3.99 € per adult and 18.96 € for a car.

Besides the mainland, you can also reach the Hvar from other islands, including Brac, Korcula, Lastovo, Mljet, and Vis Island. However, island hopping within one day is rarely done. If you plan to hop from one to another island, plan to spend at least an overnight in each of them.

The only international ferry line serving the island of Hvar is one from Ancona in Italy to Stari Grad. It’s an overnight ferry that runs year-round from Split to Ancona, but the stop in Stari Grad is only scheduled during the first two weeks of August.

Getting around

The most convenient way to travel around the island is by car, or by scooter. The main island’s road D116 runs from Hvar Town to Sucuraj and connects all major towns on the island, like Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska.

The western section of this road, around Hvar, Jelsa, and Stari Grad, is in good condition. However the more east you go toward Sucuraj the worse it gets. It becomes narrow, with patched asphalt at many places, a lack of safety barriers, and some curves especially once you pass Jelsa.

If you travel by car from the mainland, make sure you fill up gas prior to crossing onto the island. The island disposes of just three gas stations for motor vehicles: one in Hvar Town, and two in and out of Jelsa.

Another way to travel around the island is by bus. The island is served by Cazmatrans (t: +385 21 765 904), one of the national bus operators (don’t bother trying to book through their website, or just trying to retrieve the bus timetable – it simply doesn’t work). Buses connect all major towns on the island (Jelsa, Vrboska, Stari Grad, Stari Grad ferry terminal, Hvar, Sucuraj). Unfortunately, Cazmatrans doesn’t sell tickets through the GetByBus website, but it’s still a good place to check the bus schedule. You can also check the updated bus schedule in the image below.

There are a few things to consider if you plan to use a rental car on the island. The main consideration is whether should you rent a car on the island, or on the mainland, prior to crossing over. This decision is not always evident, and more often than not it depends on personal preferences.

Car rental in Split Airport, or elsewhere on the mainland, can provide you with a better choice of cars to hire, cheaper rental prices, and an overall better supply of rental cars.

On the other hand, hiring a car on the island gives you the opportunity to rent only for the days you will actually use it (even if the price per day comes as more expensive; you will perhaps still spend less money in total on car rental).

It also gives you a chance to skip the lines on ferries. Queues on ferries only form for the cars, and sometimes you are so far away in a queue that you need to wait for the next car ferry. This never happens if you cross on foot to the island.

Crossing to the island on foot will also give you a chance to travel directly to Hvar Town, as car ferries don’t dock in Hvar Town, only in Stari Grad or Sucuraj. Passenger-only catamarans dock in downtown Hvar Town.

Also, worth mentioning is the fact that the majority of car rental companies in Croatia will charge you a one-time fee for taking a car on ferries.

The downside of renting a car on the island is the shortage of available vehicles in the high season.  Make sure to book your car on time and well in advance.

Further Reading

Paul Bradbury’s  Hvar: An Insider’s Guide is perhaps the best travel book about Hvar. You can also check his other book about his life on the island entitled  Lavender, Dormice, and a Donkey Named Mercedes: A Decade of Expat Living on Hvar

If you plan to visit more than Hvar while in Croatia, we highly recommend Fodor’s Essential Croatia , and Lonely Planet Croatia travel guides.

If you plan to make a trip to neighboring Brac Island, read our Brac Island Travel Guide

We’ve also written a full post on Things to do on Brac island .

Since you’ll sooner and later end up in Split if going to Hvar, you can also check our Split Travel Guide .

Frankaboutcroatia.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. This post might also contain affiliate links to other sites, like accommodation or activities. And if you purchase anything using these links, we earn a little commission with no extra costs for you. Thank you for supporting our blog! Read full disclaimer here.

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12 thoughts on “The Complete Hvar Island Travel Guide”

Hope you’ve found someone, Akshata! We aren’t licensed guides.

I am looking for a local guide who can show me around Hvar Town for a group of 40 people. Can you please contact on the email

We are in the throws of planning a trip to Croatia in September 2022 and your website and guides have been invaluable :)

After several days in Dubrovnik, we are staying on Hvar in Old Town. Considering renting a car in Dub and driving to Drvenik, crossing with the car on the ferry, then driving from Sucuraj to Old Town.

Just wondering if there are any current updates on the road conditions between Sucuraj and Old Town?

So excited to go!!! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated :)

Please read our post on visiting Croatia during Covid: https://www.frankaboutcroatia.com/visiting-croatia-during-covid-19-pandemic/ We have explained everything there.

Hi, I am hoping for a bit of current advice. Im planning a stag do for my friend for a long weekend in September. We are travelling from England, and there are 16 of us. With regards to COVID, what is the current situation for attending nightclubs? I have seen all the festivals in Pag island have been cancelled but couldn’t find any specific information for anywhere else. Also with us being such a large group are we likely to struggle with entry into bars and clubs? Finally, the group is interested in r&b music but a lot of the clubs are advertised with house/techno music – is there any city you’d recommend for that kind of music? I apologise for so many specific questions, I am struggling to find any information on this anywhere. Many thanks

You can take a rental car with you on the ferry. Make sure to mention this when renting a car as you are supposed to pay an extra insurance for the ferry transfer.

Hello! Me and my friends are travelling to Croatia this month. We are buying the ferry tickets to go from Split to Hvar, but we can’t find the option to take our rental car with us (we saw some people doing this in several vlogs). I don’t know if you know any information about this! Thank you for your attention and help!

Hi Victoriya, hm, you can do it both ways, crossing over to Hvar with a car, or without. It all depends what you want to do. Having a car on the island gives you opportunity to visit places beyond main port city (Hvar Town in your case, I suppose). You can discover all major villages on the island, visit hidden beaches, and visit the interior of the island (and eat in some traditional taverns like ones in Dol). Many hotels and private accommodation have parkings, some don’t. Check before booking. If you decide to travel with the car all the time then I wouldn’t take the ferry from Hvar to Dubrovnik. Instead I would go back to mainland and take a coastal road from Drvenik to Dubrovnik. It’s really nice and scenic. You can book tickets online on Jadrolinija website.

Hi. I am planning a trip to Croatia for group of 4, Can you suggest please. We will have a rental car and will arrive to Split by car. the next we plan visit Hvar for 2 days, and then Dubrovnik and Mostar and Montenegro. The questions is: Should we return the car in Split, and take Ferry to Hvar, and then to Dubrovnik, OR better to keep car and take a Ferry with car to Stari Grad at Hvar, use the car in HVAR (do we need car in Hvar) , and then take Ferry with car to Dubrovnik ? A 1.If we take a car to Hvar , what we going to use it for, do Hotels have parkings. and how to take car back to Dubrovnik? 2. How to plan and book tickets for Ferry , September 26. for 4 people and car, and how much it will cost, and the same thing September 28, to Dubrovnik? B if we return the car in Split, how we will be able to explore HVAR , and we would need to rent car again in Dubrovnik to travel Montenegro.

Appreciate your response.

yes, there are taxis on the island. It is more expensive than in bigger towns. You can check http://www.hvartaxi.com/ .

Is there a taxi on the island?

I’ve been to Island Hvar, Stari Grad this summer. It was just amazing! (This was my second time to visit Stari Grad) Beautiful place for charging your batteries. people are great, Croatian cuisine also and everything feels just astonishing and beautiful, There is Maslinica sand beach and we went there every day for swimming, diving and relaxing. Water is crystal clear and at the entrance, there is a lot of little natural sources of water so the water feels little cold first 10 steps but when you get in, it is real refreshment. I will definitely visit Hvar, Stari Grad again! I can write about it till tomorrow and will not be able to express myself how great it is.

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Hvar is the fourth largest of Croatia’s islands at 182 square miles (300 square km) in size. It is even sunnier than Brac , getting almost 2,800 hours of sunshine per year. There is however enough rain to keep the island green and to maintain the beautiful fields of lavender, rosemary, sage, marjoram and thyme and the carefully cultivated vineyards. For this reason, many people remark that in the spring the island smells like a herbalist’s shop! When visiting, you must purchase some lavender oil (or lavender itself), which is the main export of the island. Local hoteliers pride themselves on consistently good weather – if there is more than four hours of rain per day, they give a reduction on your stay and if snow falls, your stay is free! The main resorts are Hvar Town, Stari Grad, Vrboska, Jelsa and Sucuraj.

Hvar (and in particular, Hvar Town) is increasingly obtaining a reputation as something of an upmarket destination in Croatia. This is partly because it can be a little on the pricey side (everyone always exclaims how “expensive” the coffee is) compared to some other destinations, but it’s also favoured as a destination by the rich and famous (or fabulous) who sail into town on their amazing yachts. In recent years, Prince Harry (who famously fell into a pool whilst dancing at Carpe Diem Bar ); Jay-Z & Beyonce (who debuted her baby bump there of their first child) and Roman Abramovich have all been spotted.

There’s still plenty for those of us who don’t have a mega-yacht, though! It really is a beautiful island, and well worth a visit or a longer stay. Read our guide on the following pages:

• History A brief history of this beautiful island
• Getting to Hvar How to reach the island via various ferry and catamaran options
• Accommodation Tips on where to stay on the island
• Sightseeing Some of the best sights
• Eating & Drinking The best places to dine and drink in on the island

Tourist Offices

Tourist Office in Stari Grad at Obala F. Tudmana bb, 21460 Stari Grad, tel: 021 765 763, Fax: 021 765 763, Email: [email protected]

Tourist Office in Hvar Town at Trg sv. Stjepana 16, 21450 Hvar, tel: 021 741 059, fax: 021 741 059, email: [email protected]

Tourist Office in Jelsa at Riva bb, 21465 Jelsa, tel: 021 761 918, fax: 021 761 017, email: [email protected]

Tourist Office in Sucuraj at Sucuraj bb, 21469 Sucuraj, tel: 021 717 288, fax: 021 717 288, email: [email protected]

Agencies on Hvar

• Luka Rent in Hvar Town offer car, bike, scooter and speedboat rental! They also organise a wide variety of excursions
• Hvar Adventure have a great selection of excursions and activity tours
• Pelegrini Tours  in Hvar Town, offer accommodation, transfers, excursions and bike, scooter, car and boat rental

More information on Hvar

• Hvar Town Tourist Office
• Stari Grad Tourist Office
• Jelsa Tourist Office
• Sucuraj Tourist Office
• Kino Mediteran offer open-air film screenings in Hvar Town during the summer

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Home » Croatian Islands / Island Hopping Croatia » Hvar island

Hvar island

The Croatian island of Hvar is by far the most popular island in the country. The island of sunshine, lavender and beautifully clean beaches is, beside Dubrovnik , Croatia’s top destination.

Hvar is also the sunniest of all Croatia’s islands where lavender oil production is a century-old industry while lavender fields dominate the landscape of small family-owned plots divided by dry stone walls.

Ideal for people who are either looking for a full beach holiday or just a day trip visit as a part of island-hopping from Split or Dubrovnik , Hvar offers interesting sightseeing, bars and restaurants offering tasty local cuisine as well as secluded beaches for peace and quiet moments.

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Table of Contents

Hvar at a glance

Where is Hvar island? The island is located off the coast of Croatia, between the well-known cities of Split and Dubrovnik . The distance from Split is 19 nautical miles (35 km) and from Dubrovnik 77 nautical miles (140 km). From both places, Hvar is easily reachable as a day trip destination (see other day trips from Split ).

What is the size of Hvar? The island covers an area of 297 km2. The total length is 69 km. Being a fairly narrow island (see map below) the width is 10 km at the widest point but most of the island is just about 2-3km wide. The population of the islands is just over 11 thousand permanent inhabitants, 3800 of them living in Hvar Town.

How is Hvar pronounced? Hvar is pronounced “ h-w-aar ” although the locals call it simply “ fa-ar ” or “ fooor “. So if you are in Hvar, just pronounce it “fa-ar” or “fooor” and you will be fine, everyone will know what you are talking about!

Is Hvar a party island? If you are asking yourself is Hvar a party island , then the answer is yes . It is a party island but not exclusively . The island is also a favourite among families with children as well as among mature travellers who are looking for peace and quiet. If you choose the right location to stay in, the island is a great one to visit, you’ll not be disappointed.

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Best Things to do in Hvar

• See the main attraction of Hvar Old Town: walk the Piazza, the town’s main square, visit St. Stephan’s Cathedral that is dominating the square, see the Arsenal palace and local Marina. In the evening, stroll along the Riva, the town’s seafront promenade while admiring the sunset views over the ocean.
• Swim and sunbathe in the popular nearby Pokonji Dol beach, situated within an easy walking distance from the Town.
• Spend a day on the beaches at nearby Pakleni islands
• Try delicious traditional Croatian local food accompanied by locally produced wines and olive oil
• Hike to the top of the hill to the old, 16th century-built fortress of Hvar, locally called Fortica Spanjola (see photo below) a protection castle with a fort, from where you can enjoy the beautiful and breathtaking panoramic view of Hvar Town, its harbour and marina as well as Pakleni islands. (below photo)
• Explore Hvar island lavender fields
• Check which guided tours are available and what are the latest prices for private tours, hiking, cycling, diving or kayaking on the island –  click here
• If you have more time, visit Jelsa and Vrboska (bus timetable) , two lovely seaside villages on Island’s northern coast.

Hvar For Families With Kids

If you are visiting Hvar as a part of your family holiday, the best places to stay are away from the centre of Hvar Town, where most of the clubs and nightlife are concentrated. Hvar Town is a car-free zone that is very kid-friendly during the daytime. All popular Island beaches are nearby while Pakleni islands are just a 5 min taxi boat or shuttle ride away. If you are into quieter places then Vrboska would be my choice. This picturesque village, the 15th-century fishing harbour is situated in the long, narrow and deep bay on the northern side of the Island, 27 km away from the Hvar town. The village is peaceful and probably among the most beautiful ones on the entire coast.

Numerous beaches and swimming spots are dotted along with the island’s diverse coastline. Being the sunniest island in the country, Hvar is a perfect spot for a beach holiday. Here is a map of the most popular ones with brief descriptions. They include crowded and public ones as well as more secluded and less known pebbly coves away from the crowds. Find out more details in a separate article that covers the beaches on the island and see the map :

Beaches Direction Map

Where to Stay

You will be spoiled by the choice of where to stay in Hvar. The island is very touristy with accommodation on offer ranging from the most luxurious hotels to very basic private rooms and campsites. The most popular place to stay is in Hvar Old Town and its surrounding streets while the rest of the island is less crowded. Although the island’s accommodation is known as pricey, if you carefully plan your stay you can find good deals in privately owned apartments and rooms for the most part of the year.

When to Make Your Reservations

If you are looking to book the best places to stay, do it as soon as you can. That particularly applies for June to September, the busiest tourist season. For the rest of the year, I still recommend booking in advance, but you can do it last minute. For the best offers and to find out what is currently available  check here .

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Getting to Hvar & Day trips

Hvar island has no airport so you would need to fly either to Split airport or to Dubrovnik. From there, you will take the most convenient ferry crossing to the island. The alternative to public transport is a private boat crossing.

By Ferry, Car Ferry or Catamaran

• Car ferries to the island  depart from Split to Stari Grad (Hvar) ferry port and from Drvenik to Sucuraj (Hvar) ferry port. (see how to get from Stari Grad to Hvar )
• From Split – for foot passengers – take all year round daily fast  ferry catamaran from Split . ( map )
• from Brac to Hvar
• From Dubrovnik, Mljet Island (Pomena and Sobra) and Korcula – for foot passengers – from April to October take a daily foot passenger fast catamaran ferry from Dubrovnik, stopping in Mljet and Korcula.
• From Lastovo – for foot passengers – take a daily fast ferry catamaran
• From Vis – for foot passengers – once a week fast ferry catamaran
• From and to Hvar > Zadar

Check detailed schedules, booking info and ferry ticket prices on croatiaferries.com

The alternative to above mentioned public transport service is a private boat crossing, private tours or day trips from Split, Dubrovnik, Brac , Vis and other places in the vicinity –  see what is available

Directions Map

On the above map, you can see the locations of all Hvar island ferry ports that are the entry points to the island as well as other ports in the area that have connecting ferries to reach the island. See also a  map of all Croatian islands including Hvar .

To get a bit better impression of the area, have a look at this lovely video that shows aerial footage of the island and the town, shot on a nice sunny day around Hvar’s Riva, the main square, the local marina and Pakleni archipelago. Don’t miss the end bit with lovely sunset views:

If you are travelling around Croatia  for the first time, find more details  about how to get to Croatia  and  how to travel around Croatia . See also articles about other Croatian islands .

Discover More

• 1 Understand
• 3 Get around
• 4.1 Hvar (city) and surroundings
• 7.1 Hvar Town
• 7.2 Pakleni Islands
• 7.3 Jelsa and surroundings

Hvar is an island off the coast of Croatia with a population of about 11,000 people (2011). Imposing fortifications hover above the fluid blend of grey stone and orange cascading roofs. The remains of walls built by a long list of invaders descend towards the wide promenade edging the brilliant blue sea and the quaint fishing harbor. Marble streets reveal one of the largest squares in Dalmatia, the prized Cathedral of St. Stephen, and the Renaissance theatre.

Understand [ edit ]

Island Hvar and especially 43.17 16.44 1 Hvar town and the neighbouring historical town of 43.1845 16.599 2 Stari Grad are among the most popular destinations in the Adriatic.

Hvar is on the edge of a beautiful, crystal-clear blue sea, surrounded by big green hills, and built from lots of old stone. At sundown a stroll up old lanes from the square in Hvar Town leads up to another lane which, high above the others is extremely attractive and shouldn’t be missed.

Hvar Town may be the most stunning town on the island but Stari Grad , the oldest city in Croatia, Jelsa, as and smattering of small villages dotting the coast or nestled in the lush interior are well worth a visit.

The area of Starogradsko polje (Stari Grad Plain) is an distinctive example of agricultural development by the ancient Greek colonists who settled on the island in the 4th century BC. For this reason, this area is included in the World Heritage List .

During the season (May to September) it can be very busy, especially during August when large numbers of Italians visit. Hvar was relatively cheap, without an extensive tourist infrastructure, and it attracted a lot of young people. However, this is changing as large five-star hotels are being built and the standard of living in Croatia is rising.

Get in [ edit ]

• Ferry company Jadrolinija operates the car ferry (approx. 2 hr), arriving near Stari Grad or by Krilo Luka fast ferry (a hydrofoil) (approx 1 hr) to Hvar City from Split . All ferry companies, schedules, prices, tickets and information are available online at GetByFerry.com [dead link] . Buses operate to bring people to and from the ferry through the island ( €2 to Starigrad, €3.50 to Hvar City (April 2009)). As buses fill, late-coming passengers are often required to stand in the aisles during the entire bus journey.
• Jadrolinija also brings you from Hvar town to Vela Luka ( Korčula ) and to the island Lastovo , and from Sućuraj in the east of Hvar to Drvenik (mainland).
• Krilo Luka operates fast ferries from Hvar town to Split . It also brings you from Hvar town to islands Vis , Milna ( Brač ), Korčula , Mljet and coastal city Dubrovnik . The car ferries run most regularly (approximately three per day and more during the high season (May to September) and call at Stari Grad. The fast ferries run less frequently but also operate to and from Hvar town. There are also ferries to other destinations, most notably Italy.

Get around [ edit ]

Buses meet the car ferries at Stari Grad and run to various destinations such as Hvar town. Don't take taxis from the ferry port, they're a rip-off.

You can easily rent a car for about €47 a day if you wish to explore other parts of the island. The rental agencies have firm policy of a minimum of one day rental (no hourly rentals). You can also rent a scooter or moped for about €33.50 a day. There are hourly rates for the mopeds and scooters. The roads on Hvar can be steep and windy and there are no guard rails, so be careful especially if riding a rented moped which is old and has already done tens of thousands miles.

There are only 2 petrol stations on the island: in the town of Hvar and near Jelsa. From Securaj to the nearest petrol station on the island is approx 50 km.

There is a convenient water taxi that will take you directly from Stari Grad harbour to the ferry for €2 .

See [ edit ]

Hvar (city) and surroundings [ edit ]

• The Town Square in Hvar is among the most beautiful and the largest in Croatia. The square measures 4500 m², and the town has developed around this square, starting north of the square in the 13th century and then circling to the south of the square in the 15th century. There is also a fortress at the top of the hill with walls that encompass parts of the city. It's an easy walk, although uphill, to the fortress. It's worth the trek however because of the wonderful views you have of the harbor and surrounding areas. Don't forget to bring your cameras. There is a small eatery in the middle of the fortress where you can purchase drinks and snacks.

• The Cathedral of St. Stephen (Trg Sveti Stjepana) dominates one end of the Town Square, and was built during the 16th and 17th centuries. The bell tower of this cathedral is four-stories high, with each level more elaborately decorated than the last. The cathedral was built over an existing cathedral that was destroyed by the Turks. Parts of this older cathedral can be seen inside the church, but most of the interior was rebuilt.
• Unique ceramics decorated with spiral ornaments in red, yellow, brown, and white were found at a Neolithic archeological site, Grapčeva špilja , near Hvar Town. Since such ornaments and engraving methods have only been found on the island of Hvar, archeologists have named this kind of Neolithic art "hvarska kultura" (Hvar's Culture). The island of Hvar also has the tradition of making lace, but from the threads of agave leaves. Nuns from the Benedictine monastery in Hvar are masters of this unique craft.
• The Bishop's Treasury , adjacent to the cathedral, contains silver vessels, embroidered Mass robes, numerous Madonnas, icons dating from the 13th century, and an elaborately carved sarcophagus.

Humac [ edit ]

43.143208 16.756704 1 Humac , Humac, Jelsa ( about 1 km off the main street (D116) across the island, ca. 10 km east of Jelsa ). ( updated Aug 2018 ) Humac is an old, now mostly uninhabited hamlet with a history dating back centuries. It is home to simple houses made of stone, some with foundations dating back to early Stone Age. In between and around the houses are typical fields (amongst others of lavender and wine), some of which are still worked on, some of which seem deserted. It is a prime example of local building and farming history. During the last few centuries, people moved to live elsewhere while the village has still been used for agriculture and keeping cattle.

Parts of the village are being restored and there seems to be a small museum with ethnographic objects.

Located at 350 m above sea level, the village also offers some magnificent views over the fields and the sea.

• the many stone homes and ruins
• church of St. John and St. Paul
• 43.134267 16.75374 2 Grapčeva cave , Humac, Jelsa ( drive to Humac and take the designated food path to the cave entrance ). entrance only allowed with a guided tour, available only on certain days . a typical Dalmatian cave with stalactites and stalagmites, where archeological findings, especially engraved and colored ceramics, have been made and prove neolithic settlement of the island ( updated Aug 2018 )

Do [ edit ]

• Take a water taxi (they run every half hour or so), or rent a boat (5 horsepower) for about €47 a day and explore the Pakleni Islands on your own. You can rent boats right in the main square in Hvar town. The islands are very close and secluded strands of white sand, hiking trails and pine groves await. Take a picnic or a bottle of wine. The boat can be anchored anywhere around the islands or tied to the rocks.
• Rent a scooter for €33.50 a day and go around the island. There is lots to see and many interesting stopping points.
• Climb up to the Španjola Fortress . Enjoy the magnificent view of Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands, and pick up Italian radio on your mobile phone or main local Megamix Radio Hvar radio station.
• Hike for 2 hours along the Hvar's southern cliffs from Dubovica to the winery of Zlatan Otok for a late lunch, a swim and a boat ride return to Hvar Town.
• Adventure park Hvar Jelsa , Jelsa Hvar ( Near Hotel Fontana Jelsa ), ☏ +385 98 1723932 , [email protected] . Offers paintball, splatmaster, cageball, beach volleyball, badminton, human table football, archery, bocce, giant boxing. ( updated Feb 2016 )

Buy [ edit ]

Hvar is known for its lavender, you can see it blooming in the summer over large areas. Don't forget to purchase bunches of lavender or lavender oils in beautifully painted glass bottles the lingering fragrances will remind you of the lovely time you spent on the island of Hvar.

• Made in Hvar , Pjaca ( at the main square ), ☏ +385 21 718 438 . 09:00 - 00:00 . Contemporary art and craft gallery presenting local art as well as artist in residence concept. Moderate prices and high aesthetic standards, unique and interested. Open all year.  

Eat [ edit ]

The local grilled squid with olive oil is wonderful, as is the cucumber salad.

• Guesthouse Novak , Jurja Novaka 9 .  

Hvar Town [ edit ]

• Restoran Antonio , Uvala Ždrilca 1 ( island of Zdrilca, rent a boat in Hvar town to get here ), ☏ +385 95 864 9544 , [email protected] . Great seafood and a good view over the bay. €13.50 . ( updated Sep 2023 )
• The Golden Shell ( Zlatna Školjka ), Petra Hektorovića 8 ( With the port behind you and the main square in front of you, head left past the church and the restaurant is a small doorway down an alley on the right. ), ☏ +385 98 939 1520 . Just off the main square near the main arrival port of Hvar is the Golden Shell, a small restaurant recommended as the best by the locals. The eating area is outdoors under a lovely vine roof, and if you are lucky you may be offered a measure of the home brewed fig brandy. Be careful, it's extremely strong but the locals recommend one a day to keep you healthy. The delicious national dish of Croatia is available, rabbit in fig sauce, and the rabbit and potato with peanut sauce is also highly recommended.  

Pakleni Islands [ edit ]

• Tonci , Sveti Klement, Vlaka , ☏ +385 98 727 186 , [email protected] . Beautiful little restaurant in a garden of fig and mandarin trees. They make their own wine from the vineyards next to the restaurants, the fish they catch in the nearby water. If you order a desert of fresh figs, they will pluck them from the trees around you. €13.50 . ( updated Sep 2023 )

Jelsa and surroundings [ edit ]

43.143676 16.757232 1 Konoba Humac , Humac, Jelsa , ☏ +385 91 523 9463 . closed on Sundays . In between of traditional houses and fields, this restaurant takes you out into a scenic and romantic atmosphere (there is no connection to running water and the electricity grid). You will have a straightforward menu of traditionally prepared dishes, many of them made in an old style oven. Good meat and also some vegetarian options. Some dishes need to be booked in advance. Certainly worth a visit, although somewhat off the main paths. Only reachable via phone (no messages or emails). ( updated Aug 2018 )

Drink [ edit ]

• Carpe Diem , At the end of the riva ( at the end of the riva on the right side ). It's all big cushions, sofas, hammocks and mood lighting. Drinks leave something to be desired. It's a real shame, because it's the perfect spot to drink cocktails, but they make them with flavoured syrups instead of fresh fruit, and they all taste like bubble-gum. The DJs are usually on the international circuit and the energy is high.  
• Prsuta Tri ( on the narrow street just behind the main square ), ☏ +385 98 9696193 , [email protected] . Good vine bar, has cheese, olive, and prosciutto.  
• Teraca , Placa ( on the long terrace above the main square ). Friendly small bar with an amazing view over the square and harbour. €3.50 beers, drinks for €2.50 . ( updated Sep 2023 )

Sleep [ edit ]

At every ferry arrival, a bunch of people offering private accommodation will show up.

• Apartmani Grgičević ( [email protected] ), Vitarnja, Jelsa , ☏ +385 977 942 942 . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 10:00 . Welcoming house in Jelsa, 30m from the sea, low prices. 5 apartments (2+1, 4+2, 4+3 persons), ground or first floor. Nice mediterranean garden, balcony or terrace for guests, WiFi, grill, pets welcome. from €12 .  
• Anna , Buzolic Tonci & Anna Glavica bb , ☏ +385 917303517 , [email protected] . Check-out: 10:00 . Friendly and clean apartment just up the steps from the main square. €27 per person . ( updated Sep 2023 )
• Apartments and Pension , ☏ +385 21 773 250 , [email protected] . Two air-con double room apartments, one air-con studio-apartment, and two rooms. €35 (studio apartment) .  
• Apartments Bibić , ☏ +385 21 741 683 , [email protected] . Ten minutes walk from center of town and 20 meters from the sea.  
• Apartments Komazin , ☏ +385 91 601 9712 , [email protected] . Nice seaview apartments for 2, 3, 4 and 5 persons.  
• Aparthotel Pharia , ☏ +385 21 735 393 , [email protected] .  
• Guesthouse Huljic , Jelsa bb , ☏ +385 91 1543072 , [email protected] . Great location in very centre of Jelsa on Hvar island. Nice clean rooms with private bathrooms.  
• Kuca Sofia , ☏ +385 911 18 12 74 . Dates back more than 400 years and is traditionally constructed from local stone. It is a spacious two floor apartment in quiet surroundings, located in the historic centre of Hvar Town.  
• Apartment Modric ( Stone house Modric ), Donja banda b.b. ( Sucuraj ), ☏ +385 98 921 04 32 , [email protected] . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 10:00 . Accommodation for 4-5 persons in old stone completely renovated house, 20m from sea. The available apartment takes the first floor and the attic; 70m2 large. €60-90/day per apartment .  
• Apartments Curin , Antica Ćurin, Sv. Katarina bb, Hvar Town directions= , ☏ +385 21 741-676 , [email protected] . Check-out: 14:00 . Very clean and nice apartments with bathrooms and balconies. The top floor balcony has an amazing view over Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. €30 .  
• Aprtments Hackl , ☏ +385 21 741514 , [email protected] . Nice quiet place.  
• 43.169853 16.445981 1 Luka's Lodge ( call Luka for a pickup ), ☏ +385 917 347 230 . Check-out: 11:00 . Nice location away from the noise, but within easy walking distance of beaches, restaurants, main promenade. €16 per night . ( updated Sep 2023 )
• 43.16389 16.4427 2 Villa Pepi ( Bodlovic ), Ivana Vucetica 16 ( South along coast line ), ☏ +385 21 741 183 . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 10:00 . Apartments for 2 to 4 persons, direct sea view, 20 m from sea. 20-35 e .  
• Apartments Blaskovic ( in the vicinity of the beach ), ☏ +385 98 265 434 . Nice view. Has a seawater pool and fitness room.  

Go next [ edit ]

The beautiful, unspoilt and popular naturist islands of Jerolim and Stipanska are accessible by taxi-boat from Hvar town square. As of August 2010, the main beaches of the island are used predominantly by clothed bathers (the majority of island visitors), while the small rocky coves are used by a mix of clothed and naturist bathers.

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9 Best Things to do in Hvar, Croatia

Discover the beautiful island of Hvar, located in the Adriatic Sea in the South of Croatia. This stunning location is known for its fantastic coastline, home to crystal clear turquoise sea, fringed with pebble stone beaches and cliffside staircases, making it the perfect vacation destination! Spend lazy days exploring picturesque villages with characteristic narrow streets and beautiful bougainvillea, or explore the many olive groves, vineyards, and fragrant lavender fields. Find out all the top things to do in Hvar – the sunniest place in all of Croatia!

Things to do in Hvar

Hvar, Croatia, has a reputation as one of the most beautiful islands in Europe, and it doesn’t disappoint! Located off the picturesque Dalmatian Coast, it’s the perfect place to escape for a few days of relaxation and partying.

Also read: Complete 10-Day Croatia Itinerary

Even if a night out dancing isn’t on the agenda, you’ll see the town come alive after dark when restaurant terraces open and the streets get lit up by lanterns. Spend 3 days enjoying all the top things to do in Hvar! 

Tip: All the passenger ferries arrive and leave from Hvar to bigger cities in Croatia, like Split & Dubrovnik . You’ll also find ferry routes to islands like Brac , Korcula, and Mljet, making it a very accessible destination.

1. Island Hopping Boat Tour

An Island-hopping boat tour is one of the top things to do in Hvar! On this memorable day out, you will visit stunning secluded beaches. Plus, you’ll have a chance to swim and snorkel in the crystal blue waters of the Budikovac Lagoon, Blue Cave, Pakleni Islands, Vis Island, and Stinava Beach.

See tickets and availability for an island-hopping tour from Hvar

As you skim across the sea, with the wind in your hair and 80s songs playing on the speakers, you’ll get to see some of the most picture-perfect scenery in Croatia. Simply relax on deck, snorkel in the calm waters, or chat with the friendly staff. Adrenaline seekers can even enjoy some thrilling cliff jumping! End a perfect day on your Croatia itinerary with a stunning sunset as you return to Hvar Town. 

During your island hopping tour, you can visit the famous Blue Cave of Hvar, Croatia. With such jaw-dropping beauty, it’s become so popular that there’s now a whole system created for getting there:

• First, get off the speedboat on the other side of the island where the Blue Cave is located. 
• Buy a ticket for an additional €18 EUR.
• You will be provided with a number, and you’ll need to wait in line until called.
• Once called, hop on a small boat with about 9 others to enter the cave.
• Only 4 to 5 boats are allowed in the cave at a time. During this time, they turn off the boat’s engine and advance into the cave in gondola style, so it’s wonderfully peaceful. 
• The bright blue water is gorgeous! We recommend you visit between 10 AM and 12 PM for the best light reflection in the water. This is when it’s at its most vibrant blue. 

Note: Although €18 EUR seems quite expensive to see a cave, it really is a stunning experience.

See the Blue Cave on an island hopping tour from Hvar

Information for your Island Hopping Tour

• There is all the gear on the speedboat required for a day at sea, from life vests to snorkeling equipment.
• Water and beer are provided.
• The tour lasts 7.5 hours (a full day). Because of this, you’ll need to pack reef-safe sunscreen , a hat, and a t-shirt to cover up when it gets hot.
• It can get quite busy in the more popular spots with other boats. However, the captain will do their best to avoid these areas.

2. Explore Hvar Town

Hvar Town is one of the most beautiful spots in all of Croatia. In fact, at times, wandering around town feels like you could be in a movie set, with its scenic streets, colorful shutters, and pretty cobblestone terraces. 

Start in the center of the town, enjoying a lazy hour sipping coffee at one of the many charming cafes before strolling along the bougainvillea-laden streets in the direction of St Stephen’s Square (a beautiful 15th-century piazza). At lunchtime, grab a bite to eat at one of the tucked-away restaurants with picturesque seating that spills down the steps. Our favorites were Kantun and Teraca Bar.

Note: Consider bringing a reusable water bottle with you on your trip to Hvar, Croatia. The water is great quality here and drinkable from the taps, so it’ll save you from buying single-use plastic, supporting you to travel plastic-free !

Beaches Hvar Town

After lunch, head for one of the nearby beaches! Within walking distance of town (30 minutes), you’ll find Pokonji Dol Beach, Robinson Beach, and this great little swimming spot , which is only 10 minutes walking from the main piazza.

However, there are also plenty of places to swim off the rocks that are dotted along the coastline, so you won’t be short of locations to choose from.

After a refreshing swim, head back to your hotel to refresh before enjoying a stroll along the boulevard at sunset — one of the most romantic spots to finish the day! 

Where to Stay in Hvar Town

Hvar Town, Croatia, is also the main spot for spending the night on the island. However, Stari Grad and Jelsa are great options, too, and are cheaper and more laid-back than Hvar Town.

Hotels in Hvar Town 😴

3. Hvar Fort (Top Thing to do in Hvar)

For the most beautiful panoramic view of Hvar Town and its token terracotta roofs, visit the majestic Hvar Fortress. Built in 1278 and restored over the centuries, this historic building is also known as the Spanish Fortress. We recommend visiting at sunset when you’ll get incredible golden hour views of the sun going down over the glistening sea and the Pakleni Archipelago on the horizon. It’s a must-see spot on your trip to Hvar, Croatia!

The fort is open daily from 9 AM to 9 PM, and the price is 10 EUR per person (well worth it for one of the best views in Hvar, Croatia!).

Getting there : From Hvar Town, you can take a scenic walk through peaceful gardens and up the cobbled steps to the Fort. This takes about 10 to 15 minutes. There is also the option to go by taxi, car, or motorbike.

Here are all your hotel options in Hvar.

4. Pakleni Islands

Just a 10-15 minute taxi boat ride from Hvar island, Croatia, is the beautiful Pakleni Archipelago! These spectacular islands feel like a slice of the Caribbean in Europe , home to luscious green vegetation and white sandy beaches fringed by various colors of blue sea.

The most famous spot on the Pakleni Islands is the Budikovak Blue Lagoon, which is located on a smaller island (home to only 1 person!). This stunning sandy lagoon is only 2-3 meters deep and has turquoise waters that are perfect for swimming; the color constantly changes shade throughout the day. 

Feeling hungry? There are a few great beach bars to choose from on the Pakleni Islands. We recommend Paganini Lounge Bar and Fish House on the island of St Clement. Alternatively, head for Carpe Diem Beach Hvar and Mamato cafe bar, which are both on Pakleni Island.

Note: If you do an island hopping tour on your visit to Hvar, a swim stop at the Pakleni Islands is also included.

Hiring a Boat

Alternatively, hire a speedboat and tour the Pakleni Islands yourself! Visiting the islands this way gives you the ultimate freedom to explore hidden corners and secluded bays. Best of all, you don’t need a license, and the team will explain the basics before you head off.

The price to rent a speedboat is around 70 EUR from Hvar Boats . If this isn’t an option for you, take a taxi boat for 10 EUR pp. 

Good to know: Nudist beaches are common in this area and are signposted as FKK (free body culture).

5. A Night Out in Hvar

One of the top things to do in Hvar is to enjoy the world-famous nightlife! People come from all over Croatia, and Europe , to enjoy the atmosphere of Hvar after dark when there is endless live music, DJs, and dancing.  

Some of our favorite bars in Hvar, Croatia, are:

• Central Park Club
• Vintage Wine Bar
• Back Lane Craft Bar
• Carpe Diem Bar
• Laganini Lounge Bar

There is something for everyone, whether you prefer dancing all night, watching live music, or sipping on a glass of wine in a coastal bar. 

6. Visit Stari Grad

Explore Stari Grad’s palm tree-fringed streets, historical cobblestone steps and archways, and the marina’s calm waters on a day trip from Hvar town!

Stari Grad is the second biggest town on the island and the oldest town in Croatia. Situated on the north coast, it has the same beautiful architecture as Hvar Town. However, the vibe is very different and much quieter. You won’t find a party scene here, but you will find a myriad of fantastic restaurants and picture-perfect scenery around every corner.

Our favorite cafes and restaurants in Stari Grad are:

• Melting Spot
• Fredys food bar
• Konoba Batana

Where to Stay in Stari Grad

If Stari Grad’s tranquil atmosphere is more your thing than the luxury and nightlife of Hvar Town, consider staying here on your trip. 

Hotels in Stari Grad 😴

Stari Grad Plain

While in Stari Grad, it’s a must-do to see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Stari Grad Plain — one of the top things to do in Hvar. This stunning landscape is created from an ancient Greek system, using ancient stone walls to divide the plains. Unbelievably, it has remained intact since the 4th century BC!

We recommend hiring a bike from town to spend a few hours meandering your way through the plains (the perfect way to explore this perfectly preserved landscape).

Explore Stari Grad Plain on this popular cycling tour from Hvar

Petar Hektorovic Fortress

One of the highlights of Stari Grad is visiting the Fortress Petar Hektorović . It has a romantic garden, where it feels as if time stands still, with an emerald blue pond full of fish. This hidden gem is in the middle of the town but tucked away behind an old building.

Tip: if the door is closed, ring the number signposted and call the attendant to open it for you. 

Open daily from 10 AM – 1:30 PM and 5 PM – 8 PM. Tickets cost 4 EUR per person.

7. Plaža Dubovica

Plaža Dubovica is a true hidden gem located on the southern shore of Hvar, Croatia. Although this pebble cove is just 10 km from Hvar Town, you feel as if you’re in your own world as you dip your toes in the tranquil waters of the horseshoe bay. Getting to the beach is a beautiful excursion in itself as you follow the winding goat trail down to the crystal clear waters below.

As this bay is very remote, there is only one small restaurant that only accepts cash (and a nearby house that sells drinks and snacks). Bring your own picnic or reserve a table at the restaurant before your trip. We also recommend arriving early as the beach can get quite busy from midday.

Tip: Take water shoes for the sea urchins, which you’ll usually find located near the rocks.

Getting There

It is around 6 miles from Hvar Town to this beautiful cove, and depending on your budget, you can take a taxi, hire a motorbike, or take the bus. You will have to park at the top where there are signs to the beach. It’s a 10-min walk down, which is not too difficult but unsuitable for flip-flops!

Tip: One of the top things to do in Hvar is to visit the many incredible beaches. Some alternative options are Zaraće Beach, Jagodna Beach, and Skala Beach.

8. Day Trip to Brac Island

This larger island off the coast of Hvar shows a more authentic, slower side to Croatian island life. The nature here is unrivaled, with some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Croatia, such as the spectacular Golden Horn Beach. Plus, it has landscapes and coastlines that are ideal for hiking and kite surfing. (Read more about the things to do in Brac, Croatia )

Tip: Enjoy a long leisurely lunch at Ribarska Kućica, close to the main town of Bol, which is located on Kotlina Beach (an amazing spot).

Getting to Brac

Simply take a ferry from the harbor at Hvar town to Bol on Brac Island and begin your island experience.

Book your ferry tickets to Brac in advance here

Once on the island, you won’t need to rent transportation as everything is within walking distance. However, if you want to stay for a few days, you might want a car to explore the island.

Where to Stay on Brac Island

Although many people visit Brac on a day trip from Hvar, the island also has excellent options for accommodation if you’d like to stay longer. For example, the main town of Bol or the many quaint fishing villages that pepper the coastline. 

Hotels in Brac 😴

9. Epic Route Around Hvar Island

This scenic loop around the island takes in the top sights and gives you time to swim at the best beaches, have a delicious lunch, and see some incredible panoramic views — all in one day. Rent a motorbike, car, or quad-bike and explore the stunning coastline and beautiful towns — it’s one of the top things to do in Hvar! 

We recommend to rent a car in Croatia through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Stop 1: Malo Grablje

First, make your way to Malo Grablje, a small ghost town that has been left abandoned on the island after the whole village was evacuated in the 60s. Among the deserted stone cottages, discover a fantastic and very authentic restaurant called Konoba Stori Komin, which is the perfect refreshment stop.

Stop 2: Milna

Drive to the beaches of Milna for your first swim of the day. Here, you’ll find several small protected coves made up of small pebblestones that guarantee crystal-clear water and excellent snorkeling. If you don’t eat in Malo Grablje, you’ll find many restaurants to choose from in the village, serving freshly caught seafood.

Stop 3: Plaža Dubovica

From here, Continue to Plaža Dubovica, our favorite hidden beach on the southern shores of Hvar, Croatia.

Stop 4: Stari Grad

Enjoy the tranquility of the rustic town of Stari Grad, wandering the ancient streets and discovering the tucked-away charm of the Petar Hektorovic Fortress.

Stop 5: Vrboska

Make your way to Vrboska via the Stari Grad Plains (a UNESCO World Heritage landscape that has been active since Ancient Greek times). Once in Vrbokska, discover some of the quaint churches and other important cultural buildings that line the streets of this sweet fishing village. 

Stop 6: Jelsa

On the way to Jelsa, stop off at some beautiful coves with pristine blue water, such as Beach Vitarnja next to Tirkiz Beach Bar.

Once in Jelsa itself, make a quick stop to look at the two highest mountains on the island: St Nikola and Hum. There are also some stunning diving spots here, as well as great hiking, free climbing, and mountain biking if you want to stop a bit longer and make the most of the outdoor sports on offer.

Stop 7: Brusje

Now take the old highway (not the tunnel) to Brusje. The drive to this area is magnificent, with jaw-dropping views. You will ascend high up into the mountain, and until the month of August, you will find beautiful Lavender fields in this area surrounded by lots of old ‘dry stone walling’. Much of this is classed as a UNESCO intangible heritage site.

Read: Best Things To Do in Croatia

Final Stop: Hvar

Finish the loop back to Hvar and end the day with a visit to the Fort at sunset as you overlook the historic Hvar Town and coastline.

Additional Stop: Wineries

Hvar is known for its many sprawling vineyards, which means there are also many wineries to visit! Most of these are located in the center/southeast of the island, and you can add one or two to your Hvar Island loop. It’s a great way to learn about the wine-making process and explore more of the beautiful scenery on this fantastic island! 

Book your wine and olive oil tasting tour from Hvar

Driving in Hvar, Croatia

We rented our car from Antonio Rental, but there are plenty to choose from in Hvar Town. If you are visiting in the high season, we recommend booking ahead. 

Look at the Hvar map if you want to explore beyond our recommended loop. Although please note that after Jelsa, there’s not much happening tourism-wise on the island. There’s only one developed road, and the rest is unpaved, making traveling a little uncomfortable!

Tip: During this route through Hvar, Croatia, please note that all town centers are pedestrian only.

Best Cafes and Restaurants in Hvar, Croatia

The island has a great food and wine scene, with many fantastic restaurants in the main towns of Hvar Town and Stari Grad. Also known as the ‘Island of Lavender’, you’ll find a lot floral produce, such as the signature Hvar lavender-flavored gelato! Some of our favorite spots to eat are:

• Mediterraneo Dine & Wine
• Dalmatino Hvar
• Konoba Bunar
• aROMA Gelato
• Coffee Snob

A traditional delicacy to try is Dalmatian Peka: a baked dish with veggies and meat, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with herbs. For something sweet, try Paprenjak: a classic Croatian cookie that contains honey and is spiced with cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon. 

Tip: Meat is a key part of Croatian cuisine, although you can still find a variety of great vegetarian options on the menu. Vegan options are a challenge to find, so research in advance of your trip.

Where to Stay in Hvar, Croatia

We’d recommend staying in Hvar Town, with its lively atmosphere and range of accommodation and restaurant options. All the boat tours start from Hvar Town, and the passenger ferries arrive here, too (not the car ferry, which comes on the other side of the island).

Hotels in Hvar 😴

The downside to staying in Hvar Town is that it’s quite expensive in the high season and also busy in the evening when everyone gets dressed up to visit restaurants and bars.

Alternatively, base yourself in the quieter Stari Grad, the second biggest town on the island.

How Many Days in Hvar?

To enjoy all the top things to do in Hvar, we recommend you spend at least 3 days on the island. However, if you want to explore the whole island (including its hidden corners), join a boat tour, and go clubbing, then 5 to 6 days would be perfect.

Travel Insurance Don't forget a travel insurance for your Croatia trip! Heymondo covers medical emergencies, theft, delays, cancellations, lost luggage, and more, with 24/7 worldwide assistance and medical chat. As a Salt in our Hair reader, we've got you 5% off! Check Heymondo here

How to Visit Hvar, Croatia

If you are flying to Croatia, Split is the closest city to Hvar, with an international airport. 

Hvar is quite a big island, so if you’re going on a road trip through Croatia, you can bring your car by taking the ferry from Split . We suggest booking your spot on the ferry in advance if traveling in high season. 

Book your ferry tickets from Split to Hvar

There is a good choice of ferries from Split, Dubrovnik , and neighboring islands like Brac , Korcula, and Mljet.

Getting Around

By car/motorbike.

One of the easiest ways to see the island is by renting a car or a motorbike. This gives you flexibility and freedom to see off-the-beaten-track places and to follow the epic Hvar Island loop.

If you’re unable to rent a car, buses connect all the main towns on the island. These are cheap and can be a great way to move around. However, the schedule can be unreliable.

How Much Does Hvar Cost?

Hvar is known as a luxury holiday destination, so it can be expensive, particularly during the busy summer season of June to August. Hvar Town is the most expensive destination on the island, with Stari Grad and Jelsa being the slightly cheaper options. 

Costs of Traveling in Hvar

Travel on a budget in Hvar, from $580 − $750 USD weekly per person, mid-range $1280 − $2390 USD, and high-end from $2210 − $3280 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $70 − $200 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $20 − $60 USD Check available hostels
• Transport: $20 − $50 USD Book public transport
• Car Rental: $40 − $150 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $30 − $90 USD
• Activities: $10 − $20 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

For budget travelers, we recommend you visit outside of summer and stay outside of Hvar Town. There are a few supermarkets in Hvar to buy food for picnics, so you can cut down your restaurant costs.

Best Time to Visit Hvar, Croatia

Hvar is the sunniest place in Croatia, so you’ll find golden rays on most days of the year. As such, we recommend visiting Hvar, Croatia, in the shoulder seasons of Spring and Fall when the weather is still great for swimming, but it’s cooler, and there are fewer crowds. 

Alternatively, if you’re ok with the heat and higher prices, visit in the summer, when there are loads of great festivals and events. For example, the Lavender Festival is in late June/early July, the Hvar Summer Festival in July, and in Jelsa, you’ll find the Wine Festival in August.

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20 great things to do on Hvar island

Discover the best things to do on Hvar island with our insider’s tips on sights, activities, dining and drinking

Hvar  is Croatia’s most happening island, a destination for celebs, moneyed revellers and visitors familiar with five-star luxury. There’s still a little spontaneous magic left of pre-boom Hvar, found in its beach bars and secluded getaways, away from the focal, yacht-lined destination of  Hvar Town .

RECOMMENDED: where to eat, sleep and drink in Hvar.

Done something on this list and loved it? Share it with the hashtag #TimeOutDoList and tag @TimeOutEverywhere.

You can also find out more about  how Time Out selects the very best things to do all over the world , or take a look at our list of the  50 best things to do in the world right now .

The best things to do in Hvar

1.  Gorge on gorgeous gregada

Hvar’s signature dish of gregada – a stew of fish, potatoes, onions, garlic and top-quality olive oil – is best sampled in the historic Venetian surroundings of  Giaxa . Named after the Jakša family who once occupied this 15 th  century palace, Giaxa is all about fresh ingredients, locally sourced, creatively used and exquisitely presented. Its gregada is centrepieced by substantial chunks of fish, served bones-and-all in the traditional way. Accompanying bread is baked on the premises.

2.  Party by day

Hvar’s après-beach scene centres around a formerly secluded spot called Majerovića, just round the coast from the Hotel Amfora. Inevitably more commercialized than when it was the main hangout for in-the-know locals, Hula Hula Hvar still rocks when it comes to sunset cocktails in a Bali-meets-Adriatic setting. Best accessed by speedboat, here’s the place to lay back on a recliner, sip on a piña colada and let a few well-chosen tunes wash over you while orange rays sink over the horizon. Fresh salads and Thai curries can be ordered from Bubba Gump’s next door.

3.  Dine in a deserted village

Away from the hordes that flock around Hvar Town harbour, much of the 42-mile-long island is deserted, just expanses of pine forest and lavender field and the odd depopulated hamlet. Such is Humac. Though to have seen its resident leave a century or so ago, Humac welcomes visitors on its patron saints’ day of June 26, and on most evenings in high season when the  Konoba Humac  serves classic Dalmatian dishes by candlelight. This is no romantic construct but a necessity – as well as no inhabitants, Humac has no electricity. Lamb and white fish are prepared over an open flame. Your taxi driver should know the spot – it’s about 8km east of Jelsa, signposted on the bumpy main road towards Sućuraj.

4.  Discover Croatia’s first civilisation

Hvar’s main port of Stari Grad is also the oldest town in Croatia. Here the Greeks settled from 384BC, naming the community around this safe harbour Pharos. Finds from the time – coins, remnants of ceramics and stonework – are displayed in the  Stari Grad Museum , set in the neo-Renaissance Bianchini Palace, built in 1896 by the four sons of a prominent local ship owner. Discoveries from a Roman shipwreck are ranged around an adjoining room.

5.  Go native

A 45-minute hike east of Hvar town towards Milna is rewarded with the crystal-clean, white-stoned Mekićevica Bay frequented by naturists: Robinson’s Beach. So called because of the  restaurant  there – without electricity or water, hence its name – this secluded by is prized by sailboats and swimmers. After you reach the spot, put in your order for whatever’s fresh that day, take a dip in water even clearer than elsewhere on Hvar because the beach stones are bleached white, and wait for owner, chef and waiter Domagoj (‘Domi’) to call you in for lunch and beer. Nude bathers might want to throw on a T-shirt at this point. What Domi hasn’t caught or grown has been boated over that day – specialities include grilled fish, lobster, lamb and octopus salad.

6.  Sample Croatia’s best wines

The main wine bar in  Hvar  Town ,  Tri Pršuta   (‘Three Hams’) takes its name from the hocks that hang from the wooden-beam ceilings. Below, many, many labels are displayed and hidden away amid the antique furniture of this cosy getaway on otherwise busy Groda. There is, at any given moment, more than €1,000 of wine open behind the bar. The wine cabinet contains a ’47 Bourgogne. It is not uncommon for perfect strangers to become friends and taste each other’s wines. There’s a guitar in the corner for anyone who has the inclination. A glass of top quality red (30kn-70kn) like Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru goes perfectly with plate of Croatia sheeps’ cheese or whatever affable owner Vidan decides to bring out and share with the room.

7.  Sail the Pakleni Islands

The most popular of the many outdoor activities offered by local company  Hvar Adventure , the one-day boat trip around the unspoiled Pakleni Islands close to Hvar Town involves swimming and snorkeling as you sail around secluded coves. Lunch is taken on Sveti Klement. If a whole day takes too big a bite out of your schedule, Hvar Adventure also offers a mid-morning or sunset sail of four hours.

8.  Wake up and smell the lavender

Hvar is not only yachting and cocktail parties. The island is best known for its lavender, that turns whole swathes of land into a fragrant riot of colour in early summer. At the centre of this thriving cottage industry is the traditional village of Velo Grablje, some 10km from Hvar Town by the old road. Home to a local agricultural co-operative since 1892, Velo Grablje now stages an annual Lavender Festival every June, with workshops, talks and performances. As well as lavender and essential oils, you’ll find rosemary, honey and olive oils for sale among the many stalls. 

9.  Party by night

Slowly approaching its 20th   anniversary in style,  Carpe Diem   has flourished in tandem with Hvar itself, attracting ever more celebs and cocktail-swigging yachting types as each summer passes. Behind a loggia façade, Carpe Diem is surprisingly ordinary inside, with just higher-than-ordinary prices and standard party music till late o’clock. Its reputation stems from its VIP scene in high season, upon which Hvar hype is fuelled. Its reservation-only policy in August (put your name on the list as you pass by in the day) means that the terrace (and separate bar) operates as a celebrity zone.

10.  Discover the Croatian Renaissance

Set back from seafront at Stari Grad, the Tvrdalj was built by Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović as protection against likely attack by the Turks. As it turned out, the Ottoman Navy was halted months before the poet’s death at the bloody Battle of Lepanto, near Corfu in 1571 – but only after raids on Hvar that summer. What remains today is a well-preserved fortified residence, designed with Renaissance perspective and proportion. Paid for by the poet himself – as testified by the Latin inscriptions – the Tvrdalj features a sea-water fishpool lined by vaulted arcades, a dovecote and a walled garden. While aesthetically pleasing, the Tvrdalj was also created to sustain Hektorović, his friends and family, and sheltering residents of Stari Grad, for as long as the Turkish threat held. Grey mullet once swam in the fishpool. Further inscriptions round it read: ‘Remember that neither riches nor fame, beauty nor age, can save you from death’, and ‘Remember what will come after’.

11.  Dine in authentic surroundings

With nearly everything geared to the high-spending party crowd, authenticity is a rare commodity in Hvar Town these days. Right on restaurant-lined Groda, close to the main square, you’ll find a little of the real Croatia at  Konoba Menego . Set in the venerable family home of the owners, the Menego Tavern is all rustic touches and secret recipes, Dalmatian stuffed bread and house sea salads served amid maritime knick-knacks and ham hocks that hang from the ceiling. The table wine, a dry red, comes from the family vineyard on the nearby island of Sveti Klement.

12.  Uncover historic sea wrecks

Based at a picturesque site looking out to the Pakleni Islands, the  Diving Center Viking offers a range of dives in the clear waters off Hvar. These include the wreck of English merchant boat  Paulina , which came to grief in a nearby lagoon in the 1800s. Since home to all manner of bright sea creatures, the  Paulina  provides divers with ample scope for adventure a 30-minute boat ride from shore. Beginners may opt for one of several less challenging diving spots in the vicinity.

13.  Have a secret affair in Jelsa

Often overlooked for Hvar town, hidden, picturesque Jelsa is the ideal spot for extramarital excitement. And what better venue to conduct any affair than  Me and Mrs Jones , an inventive seafood restaurant named after the hit Billy Paul ditty of the Philly era. Preferred tune of the venue’s owners, its title replaced the more prosaically name of Konoba Napoleon that once stood at this prime spot in Jelsa’s old harbour. The cuisine, too, has been reconfigured, with modern takes on local seafood dominating the menu. To add to the allure, Me and Mrs Jones sits slap opposite the landing point for seaplanes from Split, allowing you to fly in from London and off for an illicit island jaunt  à deux  in under three hours.

14.  Holiday amid palms, pines and yuccas

We have botanist Eugene Meneghello to thank for the exotic greenery that surrounds a unique holiday villa named after him at the luxuriant spot of Palmižana. Now run by his three grandchildren, the  Villa Meneghello  provides the perfect getaway for those who want to do absolutely nothing – or those who might want to learn how to paint, dive or sail. Art workshops and activity courses are among the available attractions, while a private pool and nearby sandy beach are also on hand. Bungalows are hired by the week, from April to October.

15.  Party like a prince

Famously where Prince Harry threw a few shapes before plunging fully clothed into the pool, the  Veneranda  nightclub makes the best use of its unique location, set in the Venetian fortress that overlooks Hvar Town. Presenting domestic performers and DJs, with the occasional foreign act such as the Havana Social Club who played here in 2016, Veneranda comprises a series of tent-like structures and a terrace that catches the sunset. No distance at all from the main square, it provides plenty of space to let yourself go – away from the paparazzi who might haunt the harbourside VIP spot of Carpe Diem. Unless, of course, Prince Harry is in town.

16.  Meet the Flintstones

Excavated over the first half of the 20th century, Grapčeva špilja is one of the best preserved Neolithic cave dwellings around the Mediterranean. Containing dramatic stalactites and stalagmites, it looks pretty much as it would have done some 3,000 years ago when it was inhabited – the oldest human remains found here date back to 4,000BC. Walking distance from the deserted hamlet of Humac, the cave is only open to visitors who book a guided tour, best organised from the nearest main town of Jelsa.

17.  Go wild in the country

The secluded beaches and tiny islets around and off the coast of Hvar allow plenty of opportunities to shed your clothes and be at one with nature. These are either areas within organised camping sites, such as  Mlaska  near Sućuraj and by  Vrboska , or less easily accessible, random spots such as the deserted island of Zečevo a taxi boat ride from Jelsa. Total tanning is also the norm in several spots around the Pakleni Islands, most notably Jerolim and Stipanska that have long been catering to nudists, providing showers, beach sports and regular boat transport from Hvar Town harbour.

18.  Support The Arsenal

The theatre in Hvar Town dates back to Shakespeare’s day. Built in 1612, this unique public space is housed within The Arsenal, so named after the weaponry that once operated here. While the Venetian-style building remains, overlooking Hvar Town harbour, the theatre space, with its gorgeous frescoes and baroque loggias, last staged regular performances well over a decade ago. Intricate, time-consuming restoration works have long been ongoing. While the public may not enter, the can admire the building from outside – and make a contribution towards its expensive renovation.

19.  Eat granny’s cakes

At   Nonica , a cosy bakery set down a narrow stone alleyway uphill from the seafront Riva in Hvar Town, the cakes are all like your grandmother used to make – if your grandmother happened to have been raised on an island in Dalmatia. Called, in fact, ‘Granny’s’, the bakery displays many local favourites, such as  Hforski koloč , a melt-in-the-mouth biscuit with a mild citrus flavour. Decent quality coffee is served too, and there are a couple of chairs out in the alley for you to devour forkfuls of cake al fresco.

20.  Zip around Hvar by Piaggio

With Hvar island long and lush but poorly served by public transport, there’s no better way to zoom past its pine woods and lavender fields than by Pontedera’s finest. Rental agency  Luka , based at the harbour in Hvar Town, rents out Piaggio scooters for one to seven days, with pick up and/or delivery possible from the ferry port at Stari Grad. All vehicles are suitable for two people and come with crash helmets, locks and third-party insurance. Head for that secluded beach, park up, swim then scoot off to lunch at your leisure.

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Charm of Tradition - the Experience of Dalmatia

Revive the spirit of the past and tradition by discovering the maze of picturesque Stari Grad streets. Listen to the magical sounds of folk singers, and discover the hidden treasures of traditional taverns, galleries, courtyards and gardens. Take a walk along the beautiful bay and discover an oasis of local beaches and coves. Dive into in the turquoise sea, release the stress and let yourself be filled with the energy of the sun and the coolness of the summer breeze.

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Forska Liga – Hvar Has World’s Most Football Clubs Per Capita

Paul Bradbury

April 16, 2024

April the 16th, 2024 –  It has a football club for every 1108 inhabitants, a highly competitive league, and a football tradition dating back to 1913. Meet football on Hvar and the Forska Liga.

1911 is an important date in the history of Croatian football. For it was in this year that a few Croatian students in Prague went for a few beers in a pub called U Fleku and decided to form their own football club. 

And so Hajduk Split, easily the most famous Croatian football club (and a club with arguably the most fascinating history in the world) was born. 

The club – and the pub – still exist today, and a plaque commemorating the event still exists today. It has become a must-visit for all Hajduk fans, and I am very grateful to former Croatian National Tourism Board director in Prague, Jelena Bilic, and her husband for taking me on the pilgrimage back in 2016. 

But a date which is not quite as widely celebrated was two years later, 1913, for that was the year that the football tradition on the island of Hvar began with the founding of two clubs in Stari Grad, Balkan and Nois. A tradition which would take root to such an extent that a century later, as Hajduk spectacularly celebrated 100 years of existence (see the incredible scenes from Split in the video below), Hvar was also able to claim something incredible – not only a fully functioning island league called Forska Liga (For is the dialect word for Hvar), but the biggest number of football teams per capita in the world. An amazing one football team for 1100 people according to the 2011 census.

The Forska Liga did not start until 1969, having been made possible with the new road to Sucuraj, but there was an incredible number of football teams on such a small island before that, as this table from  Island Hvar Info  shows.

Five clubs from the village of Brusje in 1921 alone! Incredible. 

The culture of competitive football on Dalmatian islands grew, and there was a competition in 1963/4 season which finished like this:

1. Hajduk Vela Luka

2. Omladinac Lastovo

4. Brodograditelj Korčula

5. Zmaj Blato

6. Jadran Smokvica 

These days, and particularly after the Homeland War when the Forska Liga restarted, things were much more organised. I don’t know how many island leagues there are in the world, but I suspect not many. The Forska Liga takes place during the winter months, after the grape harvest and before Easter. There are currently ten clubs, who play each other home and away. Apart from the football, this is a very social event which brings islanders together during the long winter. 

And the footballers’ wives play their part too. I have one such friend, who told me that the wives have the ‘honour’ of taking it in turns to wash the muddy football strips after every game. 

When I started Total Hvar several years ago, I used to follow the Forska Liga quite closely and would always publish the results and table as soon as possible to get ahead of the other local portal. You can keep up with the latest on the Forska Liga  on this dedicated Hajduk forum . 

The Total Hvar coverage was not the only interest in the Forska Liga at that time. The 2011 season even had its own documentary, as Hvar TV followed the story of NK Levanda from Velo Grablje, a village with a population of just 5, but with its own football team (players came from Hvar and Split with family connections to Velo Grablje). Incredibly, Levanda won the league, the perfect end to the story of the documentary, the trailer of which you can see above. 

The 2011 census recorded a population of 10,948 on the island. This means that there is a football club for every 1100 inhabitants, which is surely the densest population in the world. And indeed, the number was even lower, as two teams from Pitve and Sveta Nedjelja stopped playing in recent years. Current teams are:

“Hvar” from Hvar Town, “Jadran” from Stari Grad, “Sloga” from Dol, “Jelsa” from Jelsa, “Varbonj” from Vrbanj, “SOŠK” from Svirče, “Levanda” from Velo Grablje, “Vatra” from Poljica, “Vrisnik” from Vrisnik, and “Mladost” from Sućuraj.

 The oldest team still playing is Jelsa, which has changed its name a few times since its founding in 1921. But that means that 100 years of Jelsa football tradition will be marked in 2021 – how will that be celebrated?

Amazing stuff, but did you also know that this very sporting island also had its own women’s football league as well. The Hvar women’s 5-a-side league ran from 2003-2010, and had an impressive 11 teams at its peak.  Learn more here . 

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If the case is at U.S. Embassy Port-au-Prince :   Applicants may contact a new U.S. embassy or consulate in writing to request the transfer of their immigrant visa case.  Applicants can find the contact information for Immigrant Visa Units at U.S. embassies and consulates at https://usembassy.gov/ .  The applicant should provide evidence, if possible, of their presence in the country to which they would like their case to be transferred, or documentation of their ability to enter and remain in that country for the duration of the immigrant visa process.

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Middle East Crisis Biden’s Message to Iran Over Impending Attack: ‘Don’t’

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• A couple clearing the rubble from a home in Khan Younis, in southern Gaza. Associated Press
• Smoke billowing following a strike in the Nuseirat neighborhood in central Gaza on Friday. Mohammed Saber/EPA, via Shutterstock
• A bullet-riddled car after a raid by Israeli forces in the Faraa neighborhood of the Israeli-occupied West Bank. Zain Jaafar/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
• Protesters in Tel Aviv calling for a deal and the release of hostages held in Gaza. Jack Guez/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
• Palestinians looking over damage in the Daraj neighborhood of Gaza City. Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
• Armed men at the funeral of a militant killed by Israeli forces, in Tubas, in the Israeli-occupied West Bank. Raneen Sawafta/Reuters
• Palestinians leaving Nuseirat in central Gaza during an Israeli military operation on Friday. Mohammed Saber/EPA, via Shutterstock
• A makeshift camp for displaced Palestinians in Rafah, Gaza, on Thursday. Mohammed Abed/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
• Ultra-Orthodox Jewish men and boys protesting against the prospect of Israeli army conscription, in Jerusalem. Menahem Kahana/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
• A memorial in Tel Aviv for hostages kidnapped in the Oct. 7 attack on Israel. Hannah Mckay/Reuters

President Biden vows to stand by Israel despite recent disagreements.

President Biden told reporters on Friday that he expected Iran to launch an attack on Israel “sooner than later” as a response to Israel’s killing of several top Iranian generals in a bombing in Syria two weeks ago.

Mr. Biden said he needed to be careful not to reveal classified information being collected by intelligence and military officials as they braced for an attack they believed was imminent. And he had a blunt, succinct answer when he was asked what his message to Iran was.

“Don’t,” he said.

Officials in the United States and other nations are engaged in a furious diplomatic effort to try to prevent a response from Iran that could spiral into a wider war. But Mr. Biden and his top aides have made it clear that their disagreement with Israel over the war in the Gaza Strip would not prevent the United States from defending Israel against attacks from other adversaries.

“We are devoted to the defense of Israel,” Mr. Biden told reporters at the White House after a speech to the National Action Network. “We will support Israel and help defend Israel, and Iran will not succeed.”

He did not specify what actions the United States might take.

John F. Kirby, a spokesman for the National Security Council, said earlier on Friday that the administration was taking the threat of an attack seriously.

“We are certainly mindful of a very public — and what we consider to be a very credible — threat made by Iran in terms of potential attacks on Israel,” he said. “We are in constant communication with our Israeli counterparts about making sure that they can defend themselves against those kinds of attacks.”

Mr. Kirby said the U.S. military was making adjustments to its force deployments in the Middle East to be ready in case an attack occurred, but he declined to be specific about those changes.

“We’re also clearly — it would be imprudent if we didn’t — taking a look at our own posture in the region, to make sure that we’re more properly prepared as well,” he said.

— Michael D. Shear

The U.S. issues new travel guidelines, warning that Iran will avenge the killings of senior commanders.

Several countries including the United States have issued new travel guidelines for Israel and the surrounding region, as the Israeli military said its forces were “highly alert” for a possible Iranian strike in retaliation for the killings of several commanders.

Iran has repeatedly vowed to strike back at Israel over the bombing of an Iranian Embassy complex in Damascus, Syria, this month that killed three generals and four other military officers. An American official said on Friday that Washington expects an attack by Iran against Israel that would be bigger than recent attacks in the long shadow war between the two countries, but not so big that it would draw the United States into war. The official spoke on condition of anonymity because of the sensitivity of the matter.

The U.S. State Department on Thursday barred its employees from traveling to large parts of Israel, the first time the U.S. government had restricted the movement of its employees in this way since the war in Gaza began more than six months ago.

On Thursday, Britain told its citizens that they “should consider leaving” Israel and the Palestinian territories “if it is safe to do so.” On Friday, India told its citizens “not to travel to Iran or Israel till further notice,” while France advised people not to travel to Israel, Iran or Lebanon and evacuated the families of French diplomats from Iran.

Asked about the U.S. travel warning , Matthew Miller, the State Department spokesman, said at a news briefing Thursday: “We have seen Iran making public threats against Israel in the past few days.” He declined to provide details about any specific information that prompted the warning.

The new guidelines bar U.S. government employees and their families from traveling to locations outside the Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Beersheba metropolitan areas “out of an abundance of caution” until further notice. The State Department said U.S. personnel could move among those areas for personal travel.

The top American military commander for the Middle East, Gen. Michael E. Kurilla, traveled to Israel to coordinate a response to possible Iranian retaliation, U.S. officials said.

“Our enemies think that they will divide Israel and the United States,” the Israeli defense minister, Yoav Gallant, said in a statement on Friday after meeting with General Kurilla. “They are connecting us and are strengthening the relationship between us.”

If Iran attacks, he added, “we will know how to respond.”

On Thursday, the Israeli military’s chief spokesman, Rear Adm. Daniel Hagari, said that the armed forces were “highly alert and prepared” for any action Iran might take, even as the timing and scale of any response remained unclear. Analysts say that Tehran, which has long used a network of proxy forces to project power across the Middle East, wants to avoid igniting a full-fledged war that could drag in the United States and threaten the survival of Iran’s regime.

“For years, and even more so during the war, Iran has been financing, directing and arming its proxies — in Lebanon, Gaza, Syria, Iraq and Yemen — to attack the state of Israel,” he said. “An attack from Iranian territory would be clear evidence of Iran’s intentions to escalate the Middle East and stop hiding behind the proxies.”

— Liam Stack and Eric Schmitt

U.S. and Iranian officials predict Iran will strike Israel but not U.S. forces in the next few days.

Iran is expected to mount an attack soon on Israel, but not on the United States or its military forces, when Tehran retaliates for an Israeli bombing in Damascus, Syria, that killed several senior Iranian commanders, U.S. and Iranian officials said on Friday.

American intelligence analysts and officials think Iran will strike multiple targets inside Israel within the next few days, three U.S. officials said, speaking on anonymity to talk about sensitive matters they were not authorized to discuss publicly. Officials did not indicate what form the attack would take, what kinds of targets would be involved and the precise timing — information that is very closely guarded among senior Iranians.

The United States, Israel’s pre-eminent ally, has military forces in several places across the Middle East, but Iran likely will not target them to avoid inciting a direct conflict with the United States, according to Iranian officials, who similarly insisted on remaining anonymous, and the American officials.

In the first months of the war between Israel and Hamas, Iran-backed militias regularly attacked U.S. troops in Iraq, Syria and Jordan. But after a drone strike killed three Americans in Jordan in January, and the United States launched retaliatory strikes , Iran stopped the attacks by its proxies, fearing a more powerful U.S. response. Despite the clashes and hostile rhetoric, both Iranian and U.S. leaders have made it clear they want to avoid all-out war.

Iran has publicly and repeatedly vowed revenge for the April 1 strike on its embassy complex in Damascus that killed three generals and four other officers of its elite Quds Force, the foreign military and intelligence arm of the Islamic Revolutionary Guards Corps. But analysts say Iranian leaders want to calibrate their response so it is big enough to impress, at home and abroad, that Iran is not impotent in the face of conflict, but not so big that it spirals into a full-fledged war with Israel or draws an American attack.

How Israel would respond to an Iranian attack on its soil is unclear. The Israeli military “continues to monitor closely what is happening in Iran and different arenas,” Herzi Halevi, chief of the Israeli general staff, said in a statement on Friday. He added, “Our forces are prepared and ready at all times and for any scenario.”

A strategist for the Revolutionary Guards, one of the Iranian officials who spoke anonymously, said Iran wants to take advantage of the widening rift between Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel and President Biden over Israel’s conduct of the war against Hamas — and not unite them in hostility to Iran.

The Biden administration has not only criticized the level of death and destruction wrought by Israeli forces in the Gaza Strip, it has also voiced fears that increased clashes across Israel’s northern borders, primarily with Iranian proxies like Hezbollah, could escalate into a broader regional war.

Iran believes it can generate international support for a retaliatory strike by focusing attention on the attack against its embassy complex, a rare breach of the norms of war, and arguing that it was merely defending itself, the Iranian officials said.

International law generally treats embassies and consulates as being exempt from attack. But Israeli officials have argued that the building they destroyed was diplomatic only in name, and was used as a Revolutionary Guards base, as evidenced by the high-level commanders who were meeting there when they were killed.

Richard Pérez-Peña contributed reporting.

— Eric Schmitt and Farnaz Fassihi

An Iranian attack is likely to be measured, but a miscalculation risks a broader war, military analysts say.

Israeli forces were on high alert on Friday in anticipation of a retaliatory strike by Iran or its proxies, which analysts and officials warned could spur an Israeli reaction and potentially provoke a broader conflict in the region.

Iran is expected to launch an attack as soon as this weekend in retaliation for an April 1 airstrike, in which warplanes struck an Iranian Embassy building in Damascus, killing three generals and other commanders, U.S. and Iranian officials said on Friday.

Military analysts said neither Israel nor Iran appeared interested in provoking a full-blown war that could draw in the United States, but that a miscalculation about either side’s red lines could result in an escalation in hostilities.

An Iranian response was inevitable given the high profile of one of the generals killed in Syria, Mohammad Reza Zahedi, a top commander in Iran’s Quds Force, the analysts said.

“For every wise player, there comes a moment when the cost-benefit calculation shifts and all strategies are reset,” said Mahdi Mohammadi, the chief adviser to Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf, the speaker of Iran’s Parliament. “For Iran, that moment was the attack in Damascus.”

Israel expects Iran to strike in a way that allows it to save face, but is measured enough to not arouse an even fiercer counterstrike, analysts say. The Iranians “don’t want a total war,” said Amos Gilead, a retired Israeli general. “So they might attack targets that would enable them to declare that they’ve achieved a great victory.”

Iran and Israel do not maintain any direct, formal channels of communication, making the chances for each side to misread the other’s intentions far greater, said Danny Citrinowicz, a former Israeli military intelligence officer.

American intelligence analysts and officials think Iran will strike multiple targets inside Israel within the next few days, said three U.S. officials who requested anonymity to discuss intelligence matters.

Where those strikes are aimed, from where they will be launched, who might carry them out and the damage they are expected to inflict remain secret to all but the highest levels of the Iranian government and military.

But Iran’s answer to those questions will determine the size and scope of Israel’s response, said Mr. Citrinowicz, a fellow at the Institute for National Security Studies in Tel Aviv.

The country’s leaders most likely hope to use their strike to restore some semblance of deterrence following the killing of General Zahedi in Syria, he said. (Israel has not publicly taken responsibility for that attack, but several Israeli officials confirmed the country’s involvement to The New York Times.)

Such an Iranian response, Mr. Citrinowicz said, could mean an attack from Iranian territory rather than through its proxies in Lebanon, Yemen, Syria and Iraq .

Israel has warned that an attack launched from inside Iran on targets inside Israel would be considered an escalation that required a reaction.

Daniel Hagari, the Israeli military spokesman, said on Thursday such an attack would be “clear evidence of Iran’s intentions to escalate the Middle East and stop hiding behind the proxies.”

Last week, in anticipation of an Iranian strike, the Israeli military announced that additional reserve units had been called up to reinforce Israel’s air defense system and that combat soldiers expecting leave had been ordered to remain deployed.

Should Iran launch an attack from its own soil, said Mr. Citrinowicz, Israel’s air defenses would detect drones or cruise missiles long before they reached their targets, giving Israeli forces a chance to destroy them.

A more daunting scenario, he said, would be surface-to-surface ballistic missiles, which would arrive in a matter of minutes. Israel has developed some defenses — such as the Arrow system — to intercept longer-range missiles.

“If we manage to intercept most of what’s incoming, that would be excellent — it would moderate our need to respond offensively,” Mr. Citrinowicz said.

Farnaz Fassihi contributed reporting.

— Aaron Boxerman

Police shut down a Pro-Palestinian conference in Berlin, citing a risk of antisemitic statements.

German police stop pro-palestinian conference, the german police shut down a pro-palestinian conference in berlin, citing the risk that one of the speakers invited might make antisemitic comments or incite violence..

[shouting] “I’m just trying to —” Crowd: “Shame on you. Shame on you.” “Free, free, free Palestine.” Crowd: “Free, free, free Palestine.” “Free, free, free Palestine.” Crowd: “Free free, free Palestine.”

The German police shut down a pro-Palestinian conference in Berlin on Friday and denied entry to the country to a prominent British-Palestinian doctor who had planned to attend it.

Hundreds of police swarmed a gathering of some 250 people attending the “Palestine Conference” and banned the three-day event from continuing, citing the risk that one of the speakers invited might make antisemitic comments or incite violence.

“There is a risk that a speaker who has already made antisemitic or violence-glorifying public statements in the past will be invited to speak again,” the police wrote on social media.

In addition, Ghassan Abu Sitta, a well-known British-Palestinian plastic surgeon who worked in Gaza during the first weeks of Israel’s bombardment last year, said the authorities refused to allow him to enter Germany.

Dr. Abu Sitta had given testimony before the International Court of Justice in a genocide case brought by South Africa against Israel. He said the German authorities held him for hours at the airport before refusing to let him enter the country.

“The German government has forcibly prevented me from entering the country,” Dr. Abu Sitta wrote on social media. “Silencing a witness to genocide before the I.C.J. adds to Germany’s complicity in the ongoing massacre.”

Although leaders of Germany, the largest exporter of military aid to Israel after the United States, have begun to cautiously voice concern over Israel’s conduct in the war in Gaza, there is still widespread suppression of criticism of Israel, a policy that has generated controversy over concerns that it restricts free speech.

Germany’s government has long held that its support of Israel’s existence is an ironclad part of its foreign policy, and that support is seen in Berlin as part of the country’s atonement for the Holocaust. That has led the authorities to take a restrictive stance toward criticisms of Israel, even though some of those expressing those views, including some of the organizers of the Palestine Conference, are Jewish.

Videos of the police shutting down the conference included one of officers dragging out a man wearing a kipa, or skullcap, in the colors of the Palestinian flag, shouting “Free Palestine.”

In Berlin, police have often preemptively shut down demonstrations and events criticizing Israel’s bombardment of Gaza, citing concerns over antisemitism or violence.

On Friday, the city’s mayor, Kai Wegner, said he found it “intolerable” that such a conference was happening in Berlin. “We have made it clear that hatred of Israel has no place in Berlin,” he wrote on social media.

According to its website , the Palestine Conference planned to bring together Palestinian activists and speakers for panels on topics such as how to end German military support for Israel and the suppression of pro-Palestine speech. It also called for “the right of return of Palestinian refugees and end the Zionist settler colonialism.”

Among the speakers on the program was Yanis Varoufakis, the former Greek finance minister. On social media, he described the event as one in which “Jews, Palestinians and other peace activists were discussing universal human rights across Israel-Palestine.”

— Erika Solomon

The E.U. imposes sanctions on Hamas and Palestinian Islamic Jihad for sexual violence on Oct. 7.

The countries of the European Union on Friday imposed sanctions on military and special forces units of Hamas and the armed wing of Palestinian Islamic Jihad for committing “widespread sexual and gender-based violence” during the Oct. 7 attack on Israel.

The European Council said in its decision that it levied sanctions on the fighters from the extremist groups — the Al-Quds Brigades and Nukhba Force of Hamas, and the Al-Quds Brigades of Palestinian Islamic Jihad — for inflicting sexual violence on Oct. 7 “in a systematic manner, using it as a weapon of war.”

The fighters will be barred from traveling to European Union countries and will be subject to an asset freeze.

Josep Borrell Fontelles, the European Union’s top diplomat, said in a statement that he would hold the perpetrators accountable.

Israel’s foreign minister, Israel Katz, applauded the council’s decision and said it reinforced that those who inflict sexual violence will “pay the price.”

The European Union joined the United Nations in denouncing the sexual violence that some women and children faced during the Oct. 7 attacks. In early March, after deploying a team of experts to Israel and the West Bank, the United Nations said it had “clear and convincing information” that women and children held captive in Gaza were subjected to sexual violence, including rape, sexualized torture and inhumane treatment. The U.N. report also found that Palestinians detained by Israel had been sexually abused.

Later in March, The New York Times interviewed Amit Soussana , a former hostage, who publicly described for the first time the sexual abuse she faced while in Hamas captivity. Hamas leaders have denied the accusations and the conclusions of the U.N. report, saying that while it was essential to investigate the claims of sexual violence, it would be impossible to do so in “the current circumstances.”

— Gaya Gupta

Israel says it opened a new aid corridor to northern Gaza.

The Israeli military said on Friday it had begun allowing humanitarian aid trucks to enter northern Gaza through a new crossing, in an apparent response to international pressure to do more to alleviate the hunger and deprivation produced by more than six months of war.

The military did not specify the location of the new crossing, and it remained unclear how many trucks had crossed, what aid agency they belonged to and when the crossing might be open for wider use.

The convoy that Israel says entered on Thursday was not coordinated with the United Nations, whose agencies handle much of the relief effort in Gaza, according to a U.N. official who spoke on condition of anonymity because he was not authorized to discuss the matter publicly.

Jamie McGoldrick, a top U.N. relief official in Jerusalem, said that U.N. officials planned to head to the crossing on Saturday to examine it. He said the crossing would be a significant improvement “if it can go to scale and is not temporary.”

Israel has come under increasing international pressure to allow more aid to enter Gaza. After Israeli strikes killed seven aid workers last week , President Biden told Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel by phone that the United States could withhold military support for Israel unless it did more to protect civilians and ensure adequate supplies for Palestinian civilians.

More than a million Gazans are facing “catastrophic levels of food insecurity” and over 50,000 Gazan children are acutely malnourished, the United Nations’ Office of Humanitarian Affairs reported this week . Aid agencies say the desperation is gravest in northern Gaza, where chaos and lawlessness have followed the withdrawal of most Israeli troops, and where relief groups have struggled to bring supplies from the two main border crossings in the south.

Aid officials have lobbied the Israeli government for months to open more entry points to bring aid directly into northern Gaza to avoid perilous roads across the territory where they fear their trucks will be either looted or bombarded.

In announcing the new crossing, the Israeli military said that Israeli inspectors had checked the trucks at Kerem Shalom, across the border from southern Gaza, before they headed to the new entry point, according to the Israeli military.

In mid-March, the Israeli authorities opened a military access road, known as Crossing 96, into northern Gaza. But Israel ultimately did not allow U.N. agencies to use the route consistently to bring in trucks, saying it was often needed for military use, Mr. McGoldrick said.

“Until we get a consistent flow inside Gaza, we’re never going to have the desperation reduced,” he said in an interview.

Yoav Gallant, Israel’s defense minister, pledged on Wednesday to “flood Gaza with aid” and said he expected to ultimately see 500 relief trucks entering the enclave on a daily basis. (U.N. figures show that an average of about 110 aid trucks have entered Gaza daily since the war began Oct. 7.) Mr. Gallant said Israel would soon open the port of Ashdod, an Israeli city north of Gaza, to accept aid shipments, without providing a time frame.

— Aaron Boxerman reporting from Jerusalem

The relief organization Anera says it is resuming operations in Gaza.

An aid group that had suspended its operations in Gaza after Israeli strikes killed seven humanitarian workers has said it is resuming work in the territory.

The Israeli authorities this week told the group, Anera, that the country’s military would take “certain measures” to protect aid workers in Gaza, the group’s chief executive, Sean Carroll, said in a statement on Thursday. The longstanding U.S.-based nonprofit, also known by its full name, American Near East Refugee Aid, said it was fully resuming its work in Gaza, distributing meals, hygiene kits and tents and providing medical treatment.

“Our ability to help people in Gaza relies on our heroic staff and hundreds of volunteers,” Mr. Carroll said in the statement, saying the group was “cautiously hopeful” that Israel’s assurances would mean that its workers would be safe.

Anera had partnered in Gaza with World Central Kitchen, the charity founded by the Spanish chef José Andrés, to distribute meals, but it suspended operations after an Israeli drone strike on April 1 killed seven of World Central Kitchen’s workers. The Israel military later said officers mistakenly believed the aid workers’ cars were carrying gunmen.

In an email response to questions from The New York Times, Mr. Carroll said that the Israeli authorities had assured him that “there will be no firing at humanitarian missions under any circumstances.” A strike near a humanitarian mission would occur only “in the case of a suspected armed militant in the area” and only with the authorization of “a senior officer,” Mr. Carroll said he was told.

More than six months of Israeli bombardment in Gaza have taken a devastating toll on Palestinians and aid workers. At least 224 humanitarian workers have been killed in Gaza since the current conflict broke out on Oct. 7, the U.N. Security Council said in a statement Thursday. That toll is at least three times higher than in a single conflict in a given year, the Security Council said.

With Israel’s blockade and heavy bombardment of the territory, Gaza’s 2.2 million civilians have become ever more dependent on aid organizations to meet even a fraction of their basic needs. At the same time, aid groups say the constant risk of strikes, crumbling roads and infrastructure and staggering levels of need make their work immensely challenging .

In a sign of the continuing peril for aid workers, UNICEF said on Thursday that one of its vehicles had been hit with live ammunition while waiting to enter northern Gaza this week. The Palestine Red Crescent Society said separately that a staff member died on Thursday after having been wounded in March during the evacuation of a hospital in Khan Younis.

The seven workers with the relief organization World Central Kitchen were killed on April 1 while leaving a warehouse in central Gaza. The team was part of the group’s efforts to distribute hundreds of tons of food aid, sent in by ship through a makeshift jetty the organization built on the Mediterranean coast, to a population among whom famine is beginning to set in .

They were killed when at least one Israeli drone struck three vehicles in their convoy in rapid succession, which Israel’s military later said was the result of a “grave mistake.”

Anera said it also lost one of its workers on March 8 in an Israeli airstrike, even though the location of his shelter had been shared with the Israeli authorities. Mousa Shawwa, 41, a logistics coordinator, had been a member of its staff for nearly 15 years and was wearing a vest with its logo when he was killed, according to the organization.

World Central Kitchen, which also suspended its work in Gaza after the deaths of its staff members, has not announced plans to restart operations.

— Victoria Kim

An Argentine court rules that Iran was behind attacks on the Israeli Embassy and a Jewish center.

A high court in Argentina ruled on Thursday that Iran was the mastermind of the 1994 bombing of a Jewish community center in Buenos Aires that killed 85 people, potentially paving the way for relatives of victims to make claims against the country in international tribunals.

While Argentine investigators have long believed that Iranian operatives and high-ranking officials played key roles in the attacks, the decision this week by Argentina’s second-highest tribunal goes further by holding the Iranian state itself responsible.

The ruling also characterized Iran as a terrorist state at a moment when tensions are running particularly high between Iran and Israel. Iran has repeatedly said it will launch an attack against Israel in retaliation for a recent bombing in Syria that killed several top Iranian commanders.

“The 1994 attack in Buenos Aires was organized, planned, financed and executed under the direction of the authorities of the Islamic State of Iran, within the framework of Islamic Jihad,” said the ruling by the three-member court that declared the attack a crime against humanity.

The court said the attack itself was carried out by Hezbollah, the Lebanese militant group.

The judges said Tehran was also to blame for the 1992 bombing of the Israeli Embassy in Buenos Aires that killed 22 people. The attacks were carried out in retaliation for the Argentine government’s decision to cancel contracts to provide nuclear material to Iran, according to the ruling.

Iran has steadfastly denied any involvement in the attacks.

The “verdict reaffirms what the Argentine justice system has been asserting through numerous rulings for decades,” the Argentine Jewish Mutual Aid Association, whose building was the target of the attack, said in a statement.

“It’s the position we’ve always upheld,” said Jorge Knoblovits, the head of an association that represents more than 100 Jewish organizations in Argentina. “The Islamic Republic of Iran was the one responsible for all of this.”

The court ruling said a state can be held responsible for financing and planning a terrorist attack even if it was carried out by nonstate actors.

The ruling opens the door for relatives of victims to pursue claims against Iran in international tribunals, Mr. Knoblovits said, though it was unclear if a case could be brought before the International Court of Justice, the U.N.’s highest judicial body, or elsewhere.

“We’re currently analyzing that,” he said.

The ruling is the latest twist in an investigation that has been mired by accusations of coverups and plagued by controversy.

In 2015, a special prosecutor was found dead with a gunshot wound to the head shortly after he accused then-President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner and other top officials of conspiring with Iran to cover up its involvement in the community-center attack. The former president has repeatedly denied the accusations.

The government of right-wing President Javier Milei, who came into office in December and is a strong ally of Israel, hailed Thursday’s ruling, saying it “brought an end to decades of delays and coverups.”

— Daniel Politi Reporting from Buenos Aires

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US to query Israel about 6-year-old's killing in Gaza, State Dept says

The U.S. State Department will ask Israel for more information about the January death of 6-year-old Palestinian Hind Rajab in Gaza, spokesperson Matthew Miller said on Tuesday, calling for a full investigation into the matter after a Washington Post report cast doubt on Israel's earlier explanation.