cruise control cutout switch location

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94 cruise control - master cylinder cutout switch is where?

• Thread starter mperry
• Start date Jul 28, 2019

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Brake light switch is the cutoff, also clutch switch if manual trans There is also a vacuum line that runs into the cab to the Booster's atmosphere valve, it releases vacuum in cruise module as backup disconnect when brakes are applied, its called the Vacuum Dump valve If this was leaking cruise would come on but wouldn't hold speed so would shut off The wires on Master are for Low Fluid Levels, and cause dash "brake light" to come on and ABS light The VSS on the transmission's speedo cable hook up is used for the Cruise, it could be failing, won't effect speedometer cable Buttons can often become intermittent, worn out contacts Does the on/off light come on? Cruise Buttons use horn relay voltage so test if horn works when cruise doesn't  

I was looking at parts and they list the master cylinder cutout switch, and pix showed it... thus my confusion. I'll check my nephew's '94 Explorer... maybe it was only on those rigs. I looked for a light to pop on, but I don't recall ever seeing a CC light. (Not unexpected because those lights aren't obvious.) Could be a snuffed light. I may have been the first person to use CC on this truck. I'll have to check to owner's manual. I noticed some lights come on with the ignition, but some (like the check oil light) don't. Yeah, the wimpy little horn works. (I thought Fords had dual horns.) Thank you. The truck is in prime enough shape that I like to keep everything working.  

Here are the diagrams I have 1996 and up cruise did have Brake switch AND pressure switch on Master, but not 1994  

Attachments

• 1994 cruise 1.pdf 167.6 KB Views: 211
• 1994 cruise 2.pdf 140.2 KB Views: 188

Thank you.  

The search continues. The problem seems to be in the steering wheel. The cruise will work perfectly some days, then fail for the next dozen trips. Does anyone know where to buy a clock spring for the '94 Ranger? I called the local Ford dealer, and one in Beaverton, and their parts listing insists my truck doesn't have a clock spring. Of course, the one dealer also insisted it is equipped with a master cylinder cut out. The shop I work with could not find a clock spring in their catalog, either. Did '94 and earlier use a different method for the steering wheel controls and air bag? I've been searching online and can't find any other information.  

Senior Master Grease Monkey

94 doesn't have a clockspring per se. It has a sliding contact, which is a pair of contacts in the column touching two copper rings on the back of the steering wheel.  

Thank you for the quick reply. This explains why I couldn't find the part. I tore it apart and saw the rings were corroded. A quick polish and a dab of dielectric grease and hopefully the problem is fixed. I'll try it again tomorrow morning, just to make sure. The old gal has 76K miles, so maybe the intermittent functioning was after I'd turned the wheel often enough to polish off some corrosion. I don't really need cruise, but it drives so nicely that I find myself speeding without it. Out of curiosity, what is a 12-Volt Sandwich project?  

mperry said: Thank you for the quick reply. This explains why I couldn't find the part. I tore it apart and saw the rings were corroded. A quick polish and a dab of dielectric grease and hopefully the problem is fixed. I'll try it again tomorrow morning, just to make sure. The old gal has 76K miles, so maybe the intermittent functioning was after I'd turned the wheel often enough to polish off some corrosion. I don't really need cruise, but it drives so nicely that I find myself speeding without it. Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, what is a 12-Volt Sandwich project? Click to expand...

adsm08 said: The cliff's notes is that I cut up a display version of a group 65 battery and turned it into a lunch box. Click to expand...

The contacts were corroded, but it wasn't the problem. It's in the shop and they discovered the cruise control module had defective solder joints. They tried soldering them, but it was no help. So, the glove box is torn out and we are searching for a used module. Ford and aftermarket apparently have none available and word is out to wrecking yards (no calls back, yet).  

mperry said: Yes, I clicked the link. It says "You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action. " so... maybe private? (The others displayed.) Click to expand...

Ford had successful cruise control parts available in 1993. For some reason, they decided to use an "orphan" part. I read the cruise control amplifier (the control box) was buggy, so later they use a different module, and dropped the 93-94 part from inventory a few years later. The original part is F37A-9D843-AA, marked F37Z-9D843-A on the box, made in Brazil. I was fortunate to stumble across a NOS part in the box. This cured the problem. Overjoyed, I headed for a free car wash. Jubilation lasted 12 blocks. When I went to put my driver's window up, the window regulator stripped out. <sigh> At least those parts are available.  

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• Motorcraft SW6349 Cruise Control Cutout Switch

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About this item.

• Resists abrasion and corrosion
• Made of high quality
• Highly durable and reliable
• Easy installation
• Manufactured under stringent standards

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Product Description

Motor craft Cruise Control Switches are designed and tested to meet OE specifications for durability and reliability under extreme conditions. They are manufactured under stringent standards, ensuring lasting durability. These switches resist abrasion and environmental corrosion.

Product information

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Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

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Customers say

Customers like the performance, ease of installation, value, and fit of the electronic switch. For example, they mention it works well, it's easy to access and replace, and it saves them hundreds of dollars. That said, opinions are mixed on cruise control and quality.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

Customers are satisfied with the performance of the electronic switch. They mention that it works well, is solid, and has no problems with ABS/cruise control.

"...wrenched it off, wrenched new one in, plugged it in, and now my cruise works great !..." Read more

"The part looks realy close to the original and was easy to install. Works great ." Read more

"...This product has worked 100% of the time and now can enjoy my cruise control daily.One reviewer mentioned the use of teflon sealant tape?..." Read more

"...the repair about a month ago, and to date, have had no problems with ABS/cruise control , so it would appear this was an easy fix for my problem." Read more

Customers find the installation of the electronic switch to be easy. They mention that it is simple to replace, access, and swap out. Some say that it takes no mechanical skills whatsoever.

"...Replacement video available on youtube, very easy fix . Only trick is to swap the new for the old quickly to avoid excessive brake fluid loss...." Read more

"The part looks realy close to the original and was easy to install . Works great." Read more

"...So after doing research this was the fix. Took less than ten minutes to install and cruise control works perfect again." Read more

"...not working on 2008 F250 is this little module going bad... fairly easy to replace as long as you have a big wrench... just don't over torque...." Read more

Customers appreciate the value of the electronic switch. They say it's a great product at a reasonable price, and it saves them hundreds of dollars. Customers also mention that it'll save them a bundle by not having to bring it to a professional.

"Great product at a great price . Half what the Ford Dealership wanted for the exact same part...." Read more

"The price was great the delivery took a little longer than I expected" Read more

"Pros: Price , Quality, OEMCons: Still waiting...Used on a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer V6 because the ABS light was on...." Read more

"Used on my '04 Explorer XLS. Fit perfect, great price ...." Read more

Customers like the fit of the electronic switch. They say it works and fits great.

" Fit perfectly , I would have a 7/8 crow’s foot to change this out...." Read more

" Exact fit for a 2010 F450 . Fixed my problem with my cruse control." Read more

"Used on my '04 Explorer XLS. Fit perfect , great price...." Read more

" Does not fit a 2001 Ranger . The installed wiring harness does not fit on the unit. My mistake I didn't read all the reviews." Read more

Customers are mixed about the cruise control. Some mention it works perfect again, while others say it doesn't work at all.

"...Took less than ten minutes to install and cruise control works perfect again ." Read more

"...cruise control light on the dash will blink, but not stay on and no cruise control ...." Read more

"...It took 2 minutes to replace and now the cruise control works perfectly every time and no more abs light...." Read more

"Just bought a used 2004 ford truck. The cruise control wasn't working ...." Read more

Customers are mixed about the ABS light. Some mention that the control now works great, and the ABS warning light is off. However, others say that the item was responsible for an intermittent ABS light that kept coming on.

"...and now the cruise control works perfectly every time and no more abs light ...." Read more

"...Just installed the part and drove it. ABS light does not come on anymore . Also, my cruise control that would only work sporadically works 100% now...." Read more

"...Cruise control kept turning off, and the ABS light kept coming on ...." Read more

"...Not only took care of abs warning light problems , but even shifts better now!..." Read more

Customers are mixed about the quality of the electronic switch. Some mention that it's a genuine Ford part and well made, while others say it'll not work as expected and is a known weak point on several Ford vehicles.

"Pros: Price, Quality , OEMCons: Still waiting...Used on a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer V6 because the ABS light was on...." Read more

"...I found a solution online involving a faulty cruise control brake cutoff switch that is on the master brake cylinder..." Read more

"Product appears well made and probably would work well for someone else...." Read more

"...These switches are a known weak point on several Ford vehicles...." Read more

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• Generation 1-4 Taurus, Sable Platform (1986-2007)
• Maintenance and Repair

Cruise control deactivation switch

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The connector looks sort of odd in your picture. Take a good look at it when you get it unplugged.  

Can I just remove the switch first and then unplug it? The thing is so stuck on I can't get a good grip and I might screw something up.  

Thanks for the help, I was able to get the switch off first without damaging anything and after I did, it was easy to get a proper grip on the switch plug and remove it. As for the odd look, yes it did look odd but everything seemed fine with the plug. However I got a little hurried and bought a new switch without first checking to see if the wire was bad and not the switch. Is there anyway to jump the plug to test and see if it is the root of the problem, or can I somehow test the switch by itself?  

Yes, to test the wiring you can jump the two pins and then perform the cruise control test to see if it passes. The switch is normally closed with the pedal at rest and opens when the brake is applied.  

Thanks for the replies. I tried to use a multimeter on the plug with the car battery unhooked but I couldn't get a closed circuit sound. The new switch came in yesterday and I decided to try my luck and use it. No dice. So I think I can rule out the switch as the culprit. You guys did mention that the plug looks suspicious, however my neighbor is an engineer and he says that the wire is too simple to fail and it's more likely a computer related issue. Is there any plausibility in his assumption?  

Do your brake lights still work? Here's the diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=38486 It's really a simple circuit. You should have power on the light green/red wire all the time. You should be able to get the switch to close when testing it with a multimeter though. Remember the switch is probably compressed when the brake pedal is released. Test the switch outside of the car. Not sure if you're hooking up the meter the right way to test. And I disagree with your neighbor friend. It's easy to blame a computer without knowing anything about the system. The Taurus does have a recall for damaged brake switch wiring. It's possible the cruise control module is bad, but you rule out the wiring first.  

Yeah, the boo switch is working fine. All 3 brake lights work, as well as the horn. It's a good possibility though that the connector isn't making good contact. I tested both the old switch and the new one separately from the car and I pushed the plunger and released it while it was hooked up to the multimeter and both worked just fine; pushed in: closed, out: open. But trying to use the multimeter under the footwell in such a cramped area, it may be possible I didn't get a good contact. I hope it isn't the module though. And thanks for the diagram, that will really come in handy. Just double-checking though, I'm right to disconnect the battery when checking for a closed-circuit right? Or else I risk blowing up the multimeter.  

jayg20769 said: Just double-checking though, I'm right to disconnect the battery when checking for a closed-circuit right? Or else I risk blowing up the multimeter. Click to expand...

Problem solved! Turns out that faulty wiring that was brought up was true. The 2 wires were frayed somehow and was just hanging by the tape that was wrapped around it. After about and hour and a crooked neck later I was able to solder the wires back on and apply a new strip of electrical tape, works perfectly now! Side question though, the cruise control hasn't been used in years and I was wondering if the actuator would be any less accurate due to non-use. I drove the car about 6 miles on slightly hilly roads and on the moderate hills the speed would stay about maybe 1-2 miles below the desired speed, once it flattened out it stayed right on the mark. This is normal right? Or should the response be more accurate?  

In hope of finding someone that still has this car I’m posting this in several conversations dealing with 4th gen Ford Taurus: Hello. I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with no cruise control either. I’ve read a few of these old threads with so far no success. Here are the things I’ve tried: 1. Fuse, looked fine 2. Fusible link. Switched with another similar one and tested fine 3. No obvious frayed wires or vacuum leaks 4. self diagnostic won’t work. No lights will flash past the sequence “hold off button, key on-off-on, press on button”. Then when I go to sequence “resume-coast-acc” no light at all will flash 5. Took the right side button switch off, disassembled cleaned reassembled —nada. Went to a junk yard and bought a new button switch-nada. 6. Removed the brake light switch, checked and reassembled. All brake lights are come on fine. 7. Removed the brake pedal cruise control switch which I really thought was the culprit. However it shows change in resistance when the plunger is depressed or allowed to return. So I guess that’s functioning??? Im ready to give up and either take it to a mechanic or leave as is. But I plan on selling and I will lose value either way. ‘mechanic estimated 1 hour to diagnose at $80 per hour. Jeez that’s more than a professional with a bachelors degree gets paid….  

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Motorcraft® SW6349 - Cruise Control Cutout Switch

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Cruise Control Cutout Switch (SW6349) by Motorcraft®. Without Wires. Location: Mounted In Brake Line Or Master Cylinder. Motorcraft is the way to restore the performance of your vehicle. Designed specifically for your vehicle, Motorcraft products meet stringent Ford Motor Company standards and feature OEM quality without the OEM price. All these parts feature the finest materials and finishes to perform reliably for a long time. They are engineered with precision to fit your vehicle perfectly and install easily.

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• Ford 03-07 6.0L Powerstroke Forums
• General 6.0L Discussion

2006 F-350 cruise control not working

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I just picked up a 2006 F-350 and the cruise control isn't working. I did some research and replaced the brake pressure switch and that did't fix it. Looking in the manual there is no fuse for the cruise control, and am guessing it comes strait from the computer. there are no other lights on the dash and the horn works as does the climate controls on the steering wheel. where else should I focus my trouble shooting ?  

There's not much to it. As you said... straight from the PCM. Might start by looking at the J1-C1 connector on the PCM. Otherwise, it's switches and resistors. You can find a wiring diagram for your truck here: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...res-single-page-6-0l-wiring-diagram-pdfs.html Well... 2005, anyway. There were no later versions. If you suspect harness damage, this might help: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/1096562-6-0-harness-chafing.html Good luck.  

On my 03 the cruise would not work at all either. The more I messed with the buttons while driving it started to work. I can now get it set, sometimes get it to accel, but won't coast. I would bet your switches are like mine and just need replaced.  

Auto or manual? I had a manual with remote start, PO jumped the clutch switch so the remote start would work. I chose cc over remote start.  

Does the horn work? Radio controls? Could be the clock spring. Edit: Not enough coffee this morning. I now see you said the horn worked as well as the climate controls. Still "could" be the clock spring, but not as likely.  

Here's a link to another forum with a troubleshooting guide if it's ok with the Mods. Cruise Control Dead - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums and a thread discussing the problem. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1074595-cruise-control-fuse.html  

So far I know the switch on the clutch pedal is good and the brake pressure switch has been replaced.  

When I place the key to key on engine off should the cruise control icon light up then turn off? Right now it stays off at all times.  

from Ford the clock spring is $335 and the cruise control buttons are $325. Guess I will have to do more troubleshooting before I bite the bullet on those parts to be as sure as I can.  

Do the buttons feel OK? My wife's steering wheel controls were all goofy...found that something was spilled on them in the past, so they were sticky and didn't work correctly. Got some electric cleaner spray and it fixed the problem.  

they feel fine and click like they are supposed to.  

I realized my clock spring was bad when driving at night and the cruise button lights would go off and on when I turned the wheel. Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk  

As of now all the buttons light up. Currently only the climate control buttons work, but there is an aftermarket radio installed and I don't know if they installed the steering wheel controls adapter. Will find out soon though.  

Hooked up the steering wheel controls adapter to the steep and that works. I guess the next step is to pull the steering wheel and check things out. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk  

You need a device capable of interface with the trailer brake control module. You need to scan for dtc's, and monitor PID data  

Why the trailer brake control module ? Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk  

Some of the inputs for CC go through the TBC  

Final update, cruise control is fixed. Decided to bring it to the dealership for this and the upfitter switch issue I was having. Turns out it was the cloth pedal switch. It is two switches in one, one for the starter and one for cc. Replaced the switch and now I have cc. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk  

Man do you happen to have the Part number?  

When I got my dads 94 f250 the cruise didnt work. I replaced the brake switch and no work. I started pushing the buttons on the steering wheel and after about 50 pushes it started working. Works fine now. I guess my dad never used it.  

1995-2014 Ford Back-Up & Neutral Safety Switch F7LZ-7F293-AB | TascaParts.com

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