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My Paris: Interview with André Terrail of La Tour d’Argent

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Since 2003, when André Terrail took over the legendary Tour d’Argent (created in 1582) from his late father Claude Terrail, he’s made a number of additions: the brasserie, La Rôtisserie d’Argent; the bakery, Le Boulanger de la Tour; the grocery, La Petite Epicérie de la Tour; and a luxurious Tokyo outpost .

Though the restaurant is closed for big renovations until March 2nd, 2023, a number of experiences are taking place outside the centuries-old walls during “ La Tour En Balade ” with Executive Chef Yannick Franques: On the River Seine for a dinner cruise, in the cellars of Champagne House Maison Ruinart, at La Maison Camus at Château Lafite Rothschild, Cap Estel, and in Japan with the four-hand gastronomic event at La Tour d’Argent, Tokyo.

A graduate of Babson College, USA and INSEAD, France, André Terrail has traveled the world. But Paris, he says, is where he belongs. For BP he explains why… while also sharing some superb Paris addresses.

André Terrail’s late father Claude Terrail

Where were you born?

The American Hospital, Neuilly on July 20th, 1980. My father Claude Terrail was French, my mother Tarja from Finland.

Who would you like to share an “I Love Paris” cocktail with?

Ernest Hemingway . Although I’m sure there would be more than one cocktail!

A local personality past or present you admire?

General Charles de Gaulle, president of France from 1959-1969 . What he did for France, and the world, was extraordinary. “One day, aboard the steamer Caledonien  sailing from the French Antilles to Tahiti, the general offered his companions a rare glimpse into his past: “When we were children,” he reminisced, “we often played war. We had a fine collection of lead soldiers. My brothers would take different countries: Xavier had Italy: Pierre, Germany. Or they would swap around. Well, I, gentlemen, always had France!”

General Charles de Gaulle

Your favorite Paris quartier?

The Latin Quarter , of course, where I live! It has it all: jazz clubs, unique boutiques, excellent bars and restaurants. And, I find it incorporates the perfect vibe between students (La Sorbonne), tourists (The Panthéon), locals (Jardin des Plantes) – an exciting multicultural mix.

Favorite building?

Notre-Dame de Paris

Favorite month?

September. The weather’s good. Everyone’s happy and tanned post holidays, new restaurants are opening, new exhibitions. It’s La Rentrée- a new beginning, and not long until Christmas!

You can’t live without?

My precious, black Mont Blanc Pen .

Notre-Dame © ArtHouse Studio at Pexels

Favorite Paris lunch spot? 

Alliance , on rue de Poissy, the collaboration of two talented, memorable men: Toshitaka Omiya and Shawn Joyeux who bonded at Agapé, Laurent Lapaire’s remarkable restaurant in the 17th arrondissement. Sharing a passion for all things culinary, the two men decided to join forces and create their own address.

Best address for coffee/glass of wine in Paris?

I kick back at  Bonvivant,  Pierre Mouquet’s vibrant bistro du quartier /neighborhood wine bar. It’s always open, always welcoming, serving interesting and mostly biodynamic and natural wines. The food is an excellent value. Bonvivant is open every day and late into the night for well prepared cuisine from breakfast and lunch to cocktails and post-midnight munchies.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by • Bonvivant • (@bonvivantparis)

Where do you shop for clothes?

Le Bon Marché.

And groceries?

I absolutely adore Alessandre Pierini’s Italian deli “ RAP Epicerie ” (4, rue Flechier) and the incredible wine cave (with tastings) at 61, rue du Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th arrondissement. It’s the essence of oeno-gastronomy, Italian style.

The most fun thing to do in Paris?

I love running along the Quais du Seine, on the left or right bank. I’ve discovered the nearer one gets to Bercy the less people there are! With its vineyard and old railway line, the perfect place to unwind is Parc de Bercy, located along the Rive Droite in the 12th arrondissement. This development began in 1994 on the site of a former wine depot.

Alessandre Pierini’s Italian deli RAP Epicerie © Lisa Klein Michel

A secret “touristy” spot you admire?

Le Square Vert Galant erected in tribute to Henri IV and his numerous mistresses, the Square obtained the “Espace Vert Ecologique” (ecological green space) label in 2007. And with good reason. There’s impressive fauna and flora, considering its location in the center of the capital. You can take little boat trips or just sit and take in the wonderful views of the Seine, the Musée du Louvre and the Hôtel de la Monnaie.

The best Paris “life lesson” you’ve learned?

Be kind. I learned that from my father.

Three words to live by?

Fun – Work – Friends

If you became mayor, something you’d change in Paris?

I would create a Ministry of Tourism to promote our gastronomy, wine culture, museums, artisans, fashion etc. That’s what we really need.

Something you wish Parisians would stop moaning about?

That waiters are rude and moody – nobody’s perfect, but they do get a hard time and it’s not always justified.

One object every Parisian should own?

A Navigo pass. I don’t use it often but always keep one on me. I was at Roland Garros and it was impossible to get any sort of taxi – out came the Navigo!

Favorite Book?

Sur Les Chemin Noir/On The Black Trails by Sylvain Tesson the writer and extreme adventurer. Tesson’s inspirational walking itinerary, following a horrific accident, traces his diagonal journey, from southeast France to the northwest, from Mercantour to the Cotentin. He chose forgotten paths, “Les Chemins Noirs,” in reference to the title of René Frégni’s novel. I think it’s been made into a film, starring Jean Dujardin.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Sylvain Tesson (@sylvain.tesson)

Favorite Film?

Well I think I’ve watched The Hunt for Red October about 15 times!

Annual Event you look forward to with impatience?

The Claude Terrail Polo Cup at The Polo de Bagatelle Paris. My father, the true meaning of a bon vivant, not only headed the Tour d’Argent, but was also a formidable polo player, captain of the famous Maillets d’Argents team. His motto was “inviting someone means to take responsibility for his happiness for all the time that he is under your roof”, although he loved to be out in the open air, playing polo. In 2004, two years before his death, he set up la Coupe Claude Terrail (Claude Terrail Cup) at the Polo de Bagatelle that my mother and I host in his memory.

Favorite place to take visitors?

Paris is blessed with the finest museums in the world. For me, it’s the Musée d’Orsay , and entry is free on the first Sunday of each month!

Lead photo credit : Portrait of Andre Terrail © Pierre Emmanuel

More in Interview with André Terrail , La Rôtisserie d'Argent : the bakery , La Tour d'Argent Interview

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By margaret kemp.

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !

The Earful Tower

Paris and France by Oliver Gee

Tour d’Argent: The iconic Paris restaurant in 7 intriguing figures

We’ve just had lunch at the iconic Paris restaurant, the Tour d’Argent. In short: It was the best dining experience I’ve ever had. And the new renovation job is excellent.

It was a four-course Michelin meal with a view over the Seine, the Notre Dame, and the rooftops of Paris. And it was two-and-a-half hours in Parisian heaven.

We’ve collected seven intriguing facts and figures about the restaurant, which are compiled below with some practical details for your own potential visit.

The Earful Tower podcast episode

In this episode, Lina and I will take you inside the famed restaurant and you’ll hear our thoughts as we dine.

We also discuss our thoughts on the renovation job from 2022/2023. Listen below or wherever you get your podcasts, and scroll down for the facts about the restaurant.

1) 1582: The year the Tour d’Argent was built

The first incarnation of la Tour d’Argent opened in 1582 as an inn on the ground floor. The Tour d’Argent, meaning “the Silver Tower”, takes its name from from the glistening champenoise stone with which it was originally built.

In the 16th century, the restaurant catered toward royalty, aristocrats and nobility, providing a safe place for the elite to dine. Many Kings of France dined at the Tour d’Argent and legend has it was here that King Henry III first discovered a fork, which was at the time the latest sensation from Italy.

2) 1936: The year the Tour d’Argent moved upstairs

In 1922, owner André Terrail purchased and merged buildings 15 and 17 on Quai de la Tournelle, which allowed him to add a new top floor. And so it was in 1936 that the restaurant shifted from the ground floor to the top, allowing a more contemporary design including those enormous bay windows for panoramic Paris views.

3) 16: Total months for the new renovation

From April 2022 to August 2023 the Tour d’Argent had an extensive renovation. The project, led by interior designer Franklin Azzi, brought the restaurant into the 21st century.

The designers added a metallic, “kinetic ceiling”, a carpet inspired by the Seine, and expanded the kitchen into the dining room.

Artist Antoine Carbonne added a modern fresco he called “Perle”, which depicts a medieval-inspired map of Paris that blurs the lines between fantasy and history.

Down on the ground floor, where the original Tour d’Argent was located, is the Bar des Maillets d’Argent. Cafe by day and cocktail bar by night, the bar’s 1930s design pays homage to the last years the Tour d’Argent was located here. Perched on the very top floor is the Tour d’Argent’s bar Le Toit de la Tour , which is a reservation-only rooftop bar .

4) 1,179,385: The number of the duck we had

In 1890 Frédéric Delair codified the recipe for canard au sang (pressed duck), which specified preparation, sauce and service. To maintain the recipe’s longevity he decided to start numbering the ducks served. To this day, the restaurant gives clients an embossed card recording which number duck they received. We shared duck number 1,179,385.

5) 300,000: The number of wine bottles in the cellar

The Tour d’Argent is famous for having one of the largest wine collections in the world. The cellar, guarded around the clock, contains more than 300,000 bottles – with some of the bottles dating back to the 18th century. Of those wines, about 15,000 are offered to diners in the 5kg, 400-page “anthology wine bible”.

Safe to say, we’re not wine connoisseurs. When we spoke about the wine list on the podcast, we admitted to being “first pagers”, and were more than happy to go with the recommendations of the sommelier.

6) €150: Cost for one lunch at the Tour d’Argent

There is certainly a sliding scales of prices at the Tour d’Argent. For €150 (160USD and 250AUD) per person, you can have the four-course lunch (drinks not included). On the other end of the scale is the nine course tasting menu for dinner priced at €1,582 (1,680USD and 2650AUD).

Our four course lunch included scallops, sea bass, roasted duckling, and clementine meringue ( see the November menu here ). Quite simply: It was the best dining experience of my life. Pure excellence from chef Yannick Franques. You can hear more about the food in the podcast episode.

7) 1: The number of Michelin stars for the Tour d’Argent

The Tour d’Argent was once the proud owner of 3 Michelin stars, but lost one in 1996, and another in 2006. In recent years they have been on a mission to reclaim their stars.

Practical details for the Tour d’Argent

• Tour d’Argent address : 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris
• Peruse the menu here.
• Book a table here . 

Here’s The Earful Tower’s podcast episode again in case you missed it, with new episodes every Monday. The next one will be all about “U is for…”. You’ll have to tune in next week to find out what it is.

Do you like The Earful Tower? Become a Patreon member of The Earful Tower  here  to support this show and get extras (this week including some extra pictures from the restaurant).

Want to do a tour? Get in touch on The Earful Tower’s social media or book directly here . The music in this episode is from Pres Maxson, find his Substack here .

Interested in finding more fine-dining restaurants? Here is a list of six classic restaurants on the left bank .

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• Chef Spotlight: Dominique Bouchet

We trace the chef’s Michelin-starred journey through France and chronicle his love affair with Japan.

chef Michelin star

Today, Dominique Bouchet is considered one of France’s greatest chefs, whose reach extends beyond the European country to the celebrated culinary capital of Asia—Tokyo—as well. Among an array of restaurants under his control, Bouchet helms one- and two-Michelin-starred eponymous establishments in France and Japan , respectively. He traces the birth of his fascination with the culinary arts to when he was just eight years old, watching the legendary French chef Raymond Oliver cook on a black-and-white TV. “We were the first in our village to get a black-and-white TV, and so after school and homework, all the children came to our home to watch this show,” recalls the chef. “I was deeply impressed by his stature, his charisma and his uniform, and after this period I started to say to my parents that I wanted to become a chef."    Father Figures in Cognac

Born in 1952, Dominique Bouchet grew up on a charming family farm in the rural area of Cognac with a brother and a sister, and surrounded by cows, chickens and ducks. In true farm-to-table spirit, they ate off the land—seasonal vegetables from the big potager in their backyard, eggs from their free-ranging chickens, fresh milk from their cows and cheese made by Bouchet’s mother. “Every weekend we had family lunches at home. My mother and aunts were in the kitchen and I loved being with them to help with cooking.”

“Actually, my mother wanted me to be a lawyer or doctor,” shares Bouchet. “But I already had a strong temperament—I convinced them to find me a training supervisor to start my cooking formation.” Bouchet’s first mentor would turn out to be Marcel Pouilly. In 1966, he started working at Club restaurant in the mornings and evenings, before and after school. “It was a very hard time for me because I was very young and not used to that lifestyle. I wanted to give up, but my father brought me back to the restaurant and asked chef Pouilly to follow up on my training as strict as possible. My father didn’t want me to give up that fast.” Quite the father figure himself, chef Pouilly trained and guided the young Bouchet with a firm hand. “Chef Pouilly was very strict but very human, he taught us like his own children and allowed us to discover many important things: hunting, fishing, vegetable-picking . . . And he was an amazing sauce maker.” Vivid in his memory to this day is Pouilly’s then-signature dish of Jambon au Pineau , a ham cooked with a sauce of Pineau des Charentes , a fortified wine from the Cognac region. On to the City of Lights Upon graduating high school, Marcel Pouilly found Bouchet a position in Paris, at L’Elysée Bretagne under 70-year-old stalwart Gaston Napoléon. It was through Napoléon’s connections at the Compagnons du Tour de France , where he was the president, that Bouchet first met Joël Robuchon as a tender 16-year-old.

He worked for Robuchon for three months, cooking on board the boat La Péniche Ile de France before he was called up for military service. Later, Robuchon was opening the Concorde Lafayette just as Bouchet fulfilled his military service and invited the young chef to join the kitchen team as saucier  in charge of six cooks. “I think chef Robuchon liked my sense in preparing sauces, but also my strong temperament—respectful but always sharing my opinion.”

What followed was a string of star-studded stints at renowned restaurants in France, including two-Michelin-starred Jamin, and Le Mareyeur, which he led to a Michelin star within six months. Coming Into His Own His path would cross yet again with Robuchon’s when the latter offered him the position of executive chef at the legendary La Tour d’Argent in 1981. “The challenge was huge—a big team, three Michelin stars, a charismatic owner [in the late Claude Terrail] and a world-renowned name,” says Bouchet. “But [it was here] that I learned the most about how to be a chef: how to manage a team of 40 persons, how to manage food cost, how to communicate with the clients.”

It was also at La Tour d’Argent that Bouchet began to come into his own as a chef. “I truly started to impose my cooking style, modernizing the dishes at La Tour d’Argent. The challenge was to observe the environment of this historical restaurant and, while keeping the spirit of the house, give it a second wind.” Dishes that he created in that time, like slow-cooked oxtail with mashed potato and black truffle, encapsulated this culinary philosophy. “The really important thing is to understand the restaurant’s environment. Then choose a produce and highlight it with a sauce. It is very important to keep a good balance in the tastes, to respect the produce and present a story to the guest.”

A Japanese Love Affair It was also during this time that his love affair with Japan began, when he was sent to open La Tour d’Argent in Tokyo in 1984. In the three decades that followed, Bouchet’s career would take him often to the Land of the Rising Sun, as a consultant for Cognac companies, for demonstrations at The Hattori Cooking School and making TV appearances as the owner of hotel Moulin de Marcouze, his own four-star property in Charente-Maritime. Bouchet opened his eponymous restaurant in the 8th arrondissement of Paris near Parc Monceau in 2004, which quickly earned a Michelin star. In 2013, nearly 30 years after he first set foot in Japan, Bouchet opened his first Japanese outpost in Ginza, which received a two Michelin-star accolade just four months after its launch.

Asked why he waited so long to realize his goal of opening a restaurant in Japan, he says: “With age and experience, I’ve been able to build a loyal team which I trust a hundred percent. It was the most important criteria for me to get ready to open a restaurant in Japan. Also, with my wife being Japanese, she taught me a lot about the Japanese culture and the people’s demeanor. Without her support, it would be very hard. A chef cannot grow and succeed without a loyal and trusted team.”

Growing from strength and expanding his empire in Japan, Bistrot Les Copains de Dominique Bouchet in Ginza, which he opened in 2016, was recently awarded Bib Gourmand status in the latest MICHELIN Guide Tokyo. His latest venture is a steakhouse in the Ishikawa Prefecture named Le Grill Dominique Bouchet Kanazawa . For all his accolades, Bouchet remains a humble and low-key personality, single-minded not in his pursuit for fame but to cook food and create restaurants that inspire the loyalty of both his guests and his kitchen teams. “A successful restaurant is, for me, a restaurant with loyal guests and loyal staff. A successful chef is, for me, a chef who knows how to persevere. I don’t know if I can consider myself as a successful chef, I don’t have as much media coverage as others, but I’m proud of what I have achieved in my career.”

Photos courtesy of Dominique Bouchet. This article was written by Rachel Tan, with additional reporting by Mandy Li.

Rachel Tan is the Associate Digital Editor at the MICHELIN Guide Digital. A former food magazine writer based in Singapore, she has a degree in communications for journalism but is a graduate of the school of hard knocks in the kitchen. She writes to taste life twice.

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3 Compelling Reasons to Return to La Tour d’Argent

Closed since spring 2022 for extensive renovations, the legendary Michelin-starred restaurant La Tour d’Argent is once again welcoming Parisian gourmets who cherish tradition. Everything has been completely revamped with exciting new features. While the panoramic view remains as stunning as ever (along with Chef Yannick Franques' signature dishes, of course), let us tell you about the budget-friendly options that have tempted us to return without breaking the bank.

A Brand-New Bar

On the ground floor, La Tour d’Argent unveils the brand-new Bar des Maillets d’Argent , which is now an essential part of the new experience. Joyfully, in this comfortably furnished setting with ochre sofas, a fireplace, and a library, you can now sit down for a very chic breakfast starting from 9 AM. The great deal? The €19 menu includes a hot beverage, freshly squeezed juice, and pastries or toast straight from the Boulanger de la Tour (right across the street and among the best in Paris).

Prefer the aperitif team? After work, settle in at the bar for a toast with a well-shaken cocktail like the Chukker (apricot, verjus, white vermouth... €28) or the Pink Mademoiselle with calvados infused with lemon verbena, in addition to classic options available upon request.

Psst: A true all-day hangout, the Bar des Maillets d’Argent also offers daily lunch specials (veal blanquette, pike quenelle... €39) and snack options with tempting pastries (whipped cream tart, fruit charlotte…).

Passion for the Rooftop

The Roof of the Tour was previously unused. Now, secured and greened, you can enjoy an extraordinary 360° view of the Seine , Notre-Dame de Paris , and the Île Saint-Louis : the ideal spot for a romantic drink for two. On the menu, you'll have a tough choice between a glass of Chablis (€30) or Menetou-Salon (€20), unless you opt for a glass of La Tour d’Argent champagne (€28), to be paired with an incredible terrine and bakery bread (€42) or a selection of cheeses (€22).

The Bar des Maillets d’Argent is open daily from 9 AM to midnight.

The Roof of the Tour is open from Monday to Friday from 6:30 PM to midnight and from noon on weekends. Reservation on tourdargent.com

© Matthieu Salvaing Also, discover where to have breakfast in Paris and three new festive dining spots in Paris .

Clémence Renoux

Where to find it?

La tour d'argent.

15, quai de la Tournelle

75005 Paris

tourdargent.com

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Parent item expand the sub menu, kering forecasts 40-45% drop in h1 operating profit as gucci sales tumble, ftc sues to block tapestry takeover of capri, retailers were optimistic with stable budgets at watches and wonders, at la tour d’argent, a family heir makes something new with something old.

The Paris institution has reopened after a wide-ranging renovation led by André Terrail, whose family has owned the restaurant for more than a century.

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La Tour d’Argent, the Paris institution known for its pressed duck and spectacular views of the Seine, has had a makeover.

The restaurant, which traces its roots back to the 16th century, reopened on Aug. 29 after a 17-month renovation, marking its most wide-ranging overhaul since the dining room was moved to the sixth floor of the building in 1936.

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In an effort to make the venerable eatery more welcoming to locals, Terrail has added a ground-floor bar and a rooftop terrace, while out-of-town guests can rent a full apartment on the fifth floor.

“The Tour d’Argent before it closed was already a great experience, but now we’re taking it to the next level,” he says during an interview in his office as workers put the finishing touches to the building.

Tweaking an icon is always a delicate exercise. For Terrail, who was only 26 when he took over in 2006 from his father Claude, it means honoring the family legacy while taking bold steps to propel the restaurant into the 21st century. Chief among them: opening the kitchen headed by chef Yannick Franques.

“It’s a very big decision, but it’s consistent with who we are, because La Tour d’Argent has always been a theater. That’s how my father saw it. It was his stage. He always wanted to be an actor, so opening the kitchen to show the cooks perform makes sense,” he says.

Indeed, with its breathtaking panorama of Paris, ballet of waiters, 400-page wine list and elaborate duck carving ceremony — which involves lifting the bird with a fork without allowing it to touch the platter — the main dining room already provides plenty of entertainment.     

But with a lunch menu at 150 euros, and dinner menus starting at 360 euros, the Michelin-starred restaurant has always been reserved for the happy few. In the spirit of opening its doors to a broader crowd, the family acquired the nearby Rôtisserie d’Argent in 1989 and also runs an adjoining bakery, gourmet grocery and even an ice cream truck in summer.

With the new downstairs bar, named Maillets d’Argent after his father’s former polo team, and Le Toit de la Tour, serving Champagne and cocktails on the roof, Terrail hopes to create a neighborhood haunt with a laid-back, festive atmosphere.

Terrail has decorated the downstairs bar with wood paneling and opened its windows onto the street. On a sweltering afternoon, he personally hauled an armchair into its cozy annex, which features a chimneyplace and an array of vintage or specially commissioned furniture.

“This is my idea of a dream bar,” he enthuses. “To have a little club sandwich in the afternoon and to sit in front of a roaring fire with a glass of white wine specially selected by our head sommelier Victor González — that’s paradise on earth.”

Still, exclusivity remains at the core of the offering. The 1,600-square-foot guest suite is named after Terrail’s grandmother Augusta Burdel, who used to live on the premises, and features a dining table for private entertaining, a bedroom and a sauna — the latter a nod to Tarja Räsänen, the owner’s Finnish mother.  

As might be expected, the price is available on demand. Terrail notes that his grandfather, also named André, was a famed hotelier who founded the Georges V in Paris and headed an empire that also included the Bellman and San Régis hotels, as well as caterer Potel et Chabot.

“So in a way, it’s a return to the family roots,” he says. “It’s a way of broadening the experience well beyond the gastronomic event.”

Terrail has been paving the way for the transformation for the last decade.

In 2016, he raised more than 725,000 euros by selling off some of the contents of the restaurant and its legendary wine cellar at auction house Artcurial. A silver-plated duck press, used to prepare the signature Caneton Frédéric Delair, named after the 19th century chef who invented the recipe, went for more than 40,000 euros, more than six times its high estimate.

Terrail sees himself as a custodian of the family’s heritage.

“I was thrust into the business by my father,” he says. “In the beginning, I felt it was important to be humble toward this house. I needed some time to understand it and to make it my own, even if I’ve lived here my whole life. My 40s felt like the right age, the right moment, to start to shake things up and take some risks.”   

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Invite the Tour d'Argent to your table and enjoy a unique gastronomic experience at home. Our Executive Chef Yannick Franques, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2004, combines tradition and modernity and takes you on a gourmet walk with a passion for taste as his only requirement.

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Invite the Tour d'Argent to your table and live a unique gastronomic experience at home. Our Executive Chef Yannick Franques , Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2004, combines tradition and modernity and takes you on a gourmet walk with a passion for taste as his only requirement. Nature dictating its rhythm, our exclusive creations and homemade recipes , rooted in the land , reveal themselves as the emblem of all refinements. Between hedonism, ritual, and know-how, the emblematic products of the Epicerie Tour d'Argent, worthy of our starred House, pay homage to the gastronomic meal of the French , listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

Our Chef takes great care in selecting the best products and revealing their essence to take you on a true sensory journey to the heart of the universe of taste, carried by pure gourmandize. Prepared in our kitchens throughout the year, our collections of artisanal products can be enjoyed every day and are the signature of our House: gourmet, timeless, and iconic, vibrating to the rhythm of our times; they pay tribute to French cuisine and our art of living, a source of magical and historical inspiration. Discover the unique flavor of our goose and duck foie gras , our ready-made meals , our collection of salts and sauces , or our iconic dessert  Crêpes Mademoiselle .

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During one unforgettable week from November 14 through 20, Thomas Keller’s three-starred Michelin mecca welcomed fellow Michelin-starred Tour d’Argent’s executive chef, Yannick Franques, and its third-generation owner, André Terrail, for a comestible tour de force. “ The French Laundry is part of Les Grandes Tables du Monde —an organization which consists of [178 of] the best restaurants in the world,” explains Terrail. “And I thought if there was one restaurant in the U.S. where we should have an event while we’re closed for nine months, it should be French Laundry—so I sent Chef Keller a long letter, got a reply, and it was on!”

Temporarily shuttered for a renovation and interior update, the iconic Parisian dining destination—owned and operated by the same family for 111 years—Tour d’Argent set out on tour, so to speak, in May to take over the kitchens of renowned restaurants, wine estates, and private residences, to create sold-out gastronomic experiences. From multi-course meals served at Château Lafite Rothschild's magnificent Napoleon III salon and the five-star Le Cap Estel on the Côte d’Azur to the New Otani hotel in Osaka, Japan, the team has been unpacking new and reimagined versions of its most coveted dishes.

But unlike these other sumptuous pop-ups, this one is the only actual collaborative event where the two teams have worked together to jointly design and prepare a full menu. “It’s really simple; he asked, and we said, 'yes'” says Keller, who has been the chef-owner of Napa Valley’s most revered restaurant since 1994. “Initially, we were a bit surprised, but they explained their reasoning, and everyone [here] got on board pretty quickly.”

“I’ve been here for about 18 years in one capacity or another, and this was a once in a lifetime opportunity” explains TFL’s chef de cuisine David Breeden. Collectively, Keller, Breeden, and general manager Michael Minnillo sat down with Franques, Terrail, and Tour d’Argent’s room director Stéphane Trapier to develop the perfectly choreographed dining experience. “We chose a couple dishes, and they selected a few iconic dishes from their restaurant’s menu, then we reinterpreted them using the French Laundry’s philosophy, while also giving them the floor to present their classic dishes as well as those from Chef Yannick’s own repertoire that he’s brought to La Tour d’Argent.”

The eight-course menu included Blini à la Parisienne (a fluffy blini with Royal Ossetra caviar, fine herbs, and whipped crème fraîche), Oeuf Mystère (a delectably light ball-shaped pastry surrounded by freshly shaved white Alba truffles that, when cut into and separated, revealed an eggy surprise), Loup de Mer “À la Dugléré” (a baked sea bass with tomato confit, sweet onions, Arrowleaf spinach, and French vermouth), Elysian Fields Farm Lamb “Des Tournelles” (served with La Ratte potato purée, braised artichokes, thyme leaves, and caramelized onion “au jus”), and—perhaps the best dish of the night— Caneton Voyageur (a roasted duck from Liberty Farms in a red wine sauce, with ginger and mashed garden squash with licorice).

In keeping with a long La Tour d’Argent tradition dating back to 1890—when the restaurant’s previous owner, Frédéric Delair introduced the recipe for his now eponymous “pressed duck” —each duck is given a special number. Today, that number is well over a million and now includes a special numbering system specific to this collaboration that begins with No. 070694—an homage to July 6, 1994, the day Keller opened his doors. “Of course, we had to have the duck on the menu because it’s one of the most important dishes in our heritage,” says Terrail. “So, then we thought about how far we should go and decided we absolutely had to do a numbering as we have at Tour d’Argent.” To commemorate the experience, every guest received a special card that corresponded to their duck’s number which, give or take, included about 150 Liberty Farms ducks over the course of seven nights.

“This collaboration really exemplifies what we all [strive to] do, which is continue to evolve our craft and find ways to impact our guests through the quality of our work,” says Keller. “And it’s the little things that really get us excited—like thinking back to 1976, working in my first restaurant in Newport, Rhode Island, where I was the poissonnier making Cod Dugléré every night. I didn’t know the history of it then, but it became so relevant now, because that recipe was developed [in the 18 th century] at Café Anglais, which was André’s great-great grandfather’s restaurant in Paris where Chef Dugléré created it—so we put [a version of] it on the menu as an homage.”

“It’s all about sharing,” says Breeden. “Bringing the two teams together has been really cool—it’s been amazing to watch and very humbling.” And it’s a sentiment shared by Chef Franques, who underscored the importance of the experience. “[Sharing] is important, and while we don’t [necessarily] speak the same language, we understand each other in the kitchen.”

With its origins going back 440 years to 1582, the anticipation for La Tour d’Argent’s reopening in March 2023 is palpable in France’s capital city. “It’s going to be stressful,” Terrail says with a laugh. “We’ll have new and different offerings, the chef has a new kitchen—everything is new actually, from the chairs, glasses, plates, and candles to the uniforms. It’s the most well-known restaurant in France and it’s going to make a lot of noise in Paris.” As for the likelihood of a reciprocal culinary exchange that would take The French Laundry’s team to 15 Quai de la Tournelle, it seems like the Michelin stars could be aligning. “Anything’s possible,” says Keller. “From a wonderful relationship anything can happen.”

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Renaud Augier, 2019 M.O.F.

2019 M.O.F.

Renaud Augier

Executive Chef

I was inspired by my grandmother who ran a restaurant, and started dreaming to become a chef when I was still a little child. To join the succession of great chefs at Tour d'Argent is an honor beyond words that elevates my passion and motivation to a new height.

Concept sketch by Chef Augier

Born in 1981 in France near Grenoble. Chef Augier started his culinary career at the age of 16 at a one-star restaurant, and went on to develop his skills at various two- and three-star establishments.

Through his work as a trainee at several acclaimed restaurants, his passion for gastronomy and distinct talent was apparent from a very early stage. After working at the renowned three-star Georges Blanc-Hotel & Spa-Vonnas in the former Bresse province near Lyon, he further refined his skills at the three-star Les Loges de L’Aubergade-Puymirol located between Bordeaux and Toulouse, owned by celebrated chef Michel Trama. Here, Augier's culinary skills flourished, after which Trama recommended him to the globally notable three-star Hôtel de Paris-Monaco Le Louis XV led by Alain Ducasse, where the rising star further pursued the art of cuisine.

Augier honed his skills to an even higher degree at Château les Crayères-Reims, the two-star restaurant in the Champagne region headed by the famed Philippe Mille. During his term there, Augier competed in the esteemed gastronomy contest Taittinger Prix Culinaire International 2011, and won second place.

After joining the distinguished Tour d'Argent Paris, Augier was appointed in 2013 to lead the kitchen at the institution's only branch location in Tokyo, taking his place among the generations of eminent chefs that created each epoch of this pantheon of French gastronomy at the age of 32.

In 2015, he participated for the first time in the competition for the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France in the cuisine and gastronomy category, which is the most prestigious honor of French culinary expertise and craftsmanship, and became one of the five finalists. His efforts came through in his next attempt in 2018, winning himself the MOF title along with six other contestants, all of whom were older than Augier. This is the first time in 37 years that a chef residing in Japan has won the esteemed title. Augier received his medal from the French President in a ceremony held at the Élysée Palace on May 13, 2019, and officially assumed the title of an MOF chef.

Renaud Augier's colorful experience throughout France is, in a way, a "Tour de France". His encounter with distinct culinary cultures and diverse climates that produce rich blessings of nature has contributed to new inspirations, and with the skills he acquired from his many mentors, rendered remarkable culinary talent that is still evolving, here in Tokyo. His unique ideas, combined with Tour d'Argent's traditions and esprit, bring about novel creations that escort diners to an extraordinary and unforgettable gastronomic experience.

2018 Primetime Emmy & James Beard Award Winner

Reviving classic Russian cuisine

Oct 19 2018.

Roads & Kingdoms talks to Russian chef Vladimir Mukhin of Moscow’s super-restaurant, White Rabbit.

Still in his mid-30’s, Vladimir Mukhin is already one of Russia’s best known chefs and the leading culinary light of the White Rabbit Group, which has 16 restaurants around the country. The most well-known of these, Moscow’s  White Rabbit , was named one of the 50 best restaurants in the world last year. Roads & Kingdoms’ Nathan Thornburgh talked to Mukhin in Moscow about being a fifth-generation chef, reviving classic Russian cuisine, and finding good product in the age of embargoes.

Nathan Thornburgh: Tell me about White Rabbit, what is the food? What are you trying to accomplish there?

Vladimir Mukhin: The White Rabbit is a big restaurant. We’re trying to revive Russian cuisine. I’m a fifth-generation chef, so I’m passionate about the food we create. During the Soviet Union period, we killed Russian food. Classic Russian recipes became too simplified. For example, usually you drink tea, but if you want to be, just to be creative, want to make the tea with milk, you can’t. It would be like stealing milk from the government. People went to jail.

When I was growing up, I remember my grandfather coming to the kitchen and crying because he couldn’t experiment with his food.

Thornburgh: Wow. I remember this famous photo session with Che Guevara which came up with some of his best pictures, maybe two incredible iconic portraits came from an entire roll of film, and the photographer went to him and showed him this roll of film and Che said, What the hell are you doing? You wasted all of these images. You took 30 pictures to get one? That’s the government’s film. It’s a similar mentality.   So you’re telling the story of a kind of cuisine that was lost on the Soviet history and now you’re playing with this idea of finding it again. What does your process look like? Do you get as many grandmothers as you can round up and just kind of shake recipes out of them? How were you doing this?

Mukhin: I just try to work with as many local farmers and producers as I can, so we can use as many Russian ingredients as we can.

Thornburgh: So this is a close relationship.

Mukhin: Yes. I traveled throughout Russia—not just the big cities, but also the villages to talk with older people.

Thornburgh: You know I think people don’t understand the vastness of Russia, and how big it’s collection of cultures and languages and cuisines is. What parts of the country influences your food?

Mukhin: I’m inspired by the whole country. It’s a big territory, and sometimes it feels like it’s too big. I try and use different techniques and ingredients from all over the country, which I think makes my menus distinct.

We have an a la carte menu with about 50 dishes of classical Russian food. Everything looks modern because I’m a young chef. But if you close your eyes and try these dishes, you’ll taste 100% classic Russian flavors.

I want to highlight all aspects of Russian cuisine. Before the Olympic Games in Sochi, we opened a restaurant there, not just to make money, but to expose people visiting for the Olympics to Russian food. That’s why we opened The Red Fox restaurant. It’s all about Russian ingredients.

Thornburgh: Sochi, at least when I’ve been there, is like a Miami Beach. It’s like a place to get pizza and sushi, and go to the nightclubs.

Mukhin: You been?

Thornburgh: Yeah.

Mukhin: It’s crazy.

Thornburgh: It’s a little crazy, but it’s interesting to bring in Red Fox and sort of say okay, because people are coming out, let’s bring Russia to Sochi.

Mukhin: It was incredible. We had thousands of visitors at the restaurant.  

Thornburgh: So you really looked internally for inspiration. Did working outside of Russia motivate you to focus on Russian cuisine?

Mukhin: Yes. I spent time working in Avignon, France. I worked with Christian Etienne, and he would make a special Russian meal once a year.  It was crazy.

Thornburgh: How was the food?

Mukhin: It was shit. I told him that I would cook real Russian food for him, and I did. I cooked borscht, blinis, and other classics. He liked it and said that once a year we should use my recipes, but with his influence. I agreed, and we went on to make amazing food. Eventually, I wanted to come back to my motherland. So I left and I started working on making White Rabbit a reality.

Thornburgh: When people go to White Rabbit, what are they going to find?

Mukhin: Someone once told me that there is a new Russian cuisine and an old Russian cuisine. I think Russian cuisine is going through an evolution. So I hope people will come and see evolution at White Rabbit.

Thornburgh: Great. Always good to end on an invite. Thank you.

Mukhin: Thank you so much.

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21 Things to Know Before You Go to Moscow

Featured city guides.

Moscow Free Tour

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Highlights:.

• Hit the Red Square;
• Explore the nooks and crannies of Alexander Garden;
• Get a taste of the ancient Kitay Gorod;
• Learn about the tragic destiny of the Christ the Savior Cathedral;
• Roam through the heart of Moscow.

Walking Tour Itinerary:

Here are our TOP 7 things to help you start your Russian adventure or tick off before you say goodbye to Moscow.

Wander around the vast cobblestone square with rich past, gorgeous architecture, incredible GUM , bright colors of the Kremlin and swirling Saint Basil’s Cathedral .

Kitay Gorod

Walk across the Red Square to see the embankment of old Moscow river and plunge into the atmosphere of ancient Russian village where nobles preferred to settle in XV century.

Varvarka street

Walk up Varvarka street to find the landmark of Kitay Gorod - Palace of the Romanov Boyars, which was built in the XVI century and where lived the first Tsar from the Romanov dynasty.

Old English Court

Look at the Old English Court , which used to be the English Embassy in Moscow and where Ivan the Terrible confined the envoy from England, because Queen Elizabeth I refused to marry him.

Alexander Garden

Watch the solemn ceremony of the Changing of the guards , pay respect to the eternal flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier , and the stone Grotto , The huge fountain in the centre adds a sophisticated feel to the almost 200 year old garden.

Christ the Savior Cathedral

Walk to the cathedral which is of a great cultural value to Russians. Its marvelous exterior, enormous golden domes, colossal bronze doors and pristine white walls will touch your feelings.

Patriarch’s Bridge

Pause on the bridge and marvel at the Kremlin, river cruises, monument after Peter the Great and Red October Chocolate Factory , which is now a nightlife hub for youngsters.

About Moscow:

We picked up a list of article that might be useful and helpful to you during your stay in Moscow. These are things to do in Moscow, tips about Moscow, best cafes in Moscow and simply fun facts about Moscow. Enjoy reading!

Before coming to Moscow:

• Our fun guides sharing their observations about their tours and best practices:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-private-guides-on-tours-in-moscow
• What you should know about Moscow:  
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/5-things-to-know-before-you-go-to-moscow

Off the beaten path of Moscow:

• Kitay Gorod:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-must-see-fun-facts-about-kitay-gorod
• Zamoskvorechye:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-must-see-fun-facts-about-zamoskvorechye
• White City:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-off-the-beaten-path-white-city  

The best parks in Moscow:

• Muzeon Statues Park:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-off-the-beaten-path-muzeon-park
• Gorky Park: 
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-gorky-park
• Tsaritsino Park: 
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-must-see-37-reasons-to-visit-tsaritsyno
• Kolomenskoe Park:
•   https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/things-to-do-in-moscow-kolomenskoe-museum-reserve

The most historical and beautiful streets of Moscow:

• Arbat  srreet: 
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/things-to-do-in-moscow-arbat-street
• Tverskaya street: 
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-things-to-do-tverskaya-street
• Downtown of Moscow: 
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/things-to-do-moscow-streets

What to do in Moscow:

• How to have a Real Russian Experience:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/real-russian-experience
• Things to do in Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/21-things-to-do-in-moscow
• Architectural masterpieces, hidden gems of Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/things-to-do-in-moscow-off-the-beaten-path
• Top Moscow attractions:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/top-10-moscow-attractions

Budget travel:

• How to have fun in Moscow for less than $4:
• How to save money in Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/7-ways-to-save-money-while-travelling-to-moscow

Cafes & restaurants in Moscow:

• Moscow cafes with Russian breakfast:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-cafes-with-russian-breakfast
• Best Moscow restaurants:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/best-moscow-restaurants
• Best coffee shops in Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-best-coffee-shops

Moscow Metro:

• Facts about Moscow Metro:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/fun-facts-about-moscow-metro
• Myths about Moscow Metro:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/7-myths-about-moscow-metro
• Facts about Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/fun-facts-50-facts-about-moscow
• Fun Facts about Kremlin:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/33-fun-facts-from-our-kremlin-tours
• The best flea markets in Moscow:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/moscow-best-flea-markets
• Top 5 Russian souvenirs:
• https://friendlylocalguides.com/blog/top-5-russian-souvenirs

What you get:

• + A friend in Moscow.
• + Private & customized Moscow tour.
• + An exciting pastime, not just boring history lessons.
• + An authentic experience of local life.
• + Flexibility during the walking tour: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
• + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
• + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
• + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
• + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time in Moscow.

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Guerre en Ukraine: le Sénat américain se saisit à son tour du plan d'aide

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Le texte, qui prévoit une gigantesque enveloppe de 95 milliards de dollars d'aide pour l'Ukraine, Israël, et Taïwan, pourrait être adopté avant la fin de la semaine.

Cette fois, ce devrait être une formalité: le Sénat américain se saisit à partir de mardi d'un énorme plan d'aide à l'Ukraine , adopté samedi après des mois de pénibles tractations à la Chambre des représentants . Le chef de file des sénateurs démocrates, qui contrôlent la chambre haute du Congrès américain, Chuck Schumer, avait promis dès samedi de «finir le travail» sans tarder.

• Suivez les informations sur la guerre en Ukraine avec l'application du Figaro

Le patron des sénateurs républicains, Mitch McConnell, avait lui estimé que c'était «au tour du Sénat de marquer l'histoire» en adoptant l'énorme programme d'assistance militaire que Joe Biden réclame depuis des mois. Le texte, qui prévoit une gigantesque enveloppe de 95 milliards de dollars d'aide pour l'Ukraine, Israël, et Taïwan, pourrait être adopté avant la fin de la semaine, et envoyé au président démocrate pour qu'il le promulgue. Le tout devrait être beaucoup plus fluide que les longues et difficiles négociations à la Chambre des représentants, l'autre composante du Congrès américain, dominée elle par les républicains.

Joe Biden a promis lundi à son homologue ukrainien Volodymyr Zelensky de lui envoyer «rapidement» de l'aide militaire, une fois le texte adopté au Sénat puis signé de sa main. Sur le montant total présenté au Congrès américain, la part du lion, 61 milliards de dollars, est destinée à l'Ukraine, qui fait face à une situation compliquée sur le champ de bataille face à la Russie.

L'armée ukrainienne est confrontée à une pénurie de nouvelles recrues et de munitions, qui la fragilise face aux pressions constantes des troupes russes à l'Est. La situation sur le front devrait encore empirer autour de la mi-mai et début juin, qui sera une «période difficile» , a prévenu lundi le chef du renseignement militaire ukrainien Kyrylo Boudanov.

«Je préfère envoyer des munitions à l'Ukraine qu'envoyer nos garçons se battre»

Volodymyr Zelensky compte désormais sur un envoi d'aide «rapide et puissant» qui «renforcera nos capacités de défense antiaérienne, de longue portée et d'artillerie» , a-t-il indiqué sur X, après sa conversation téléphonique avec Joe Biden. Le débat au Congrès sur l'aide à l'Ukraine a mis en évidence des divisions entre démocrates et républicains, mais aussi des tergiversations au sein même du camp conservateur, sur fond de campagne pour l'élection présidentielle de novembre. Elle opposera Joe Biden à son prédécesseur républicain Donald Trump.

Samedi, au moment du vote à la Chambre des représentants, des parlementaires ont agité des drapeaux ukrainiens en signe de soutien à Kiev, sous les huées d'élus trumpistes, opposés à cette aide. Le président américain et le parti démocrate sont favorables à l'aide à l'Ukraine, présentée comme un investissement dans la sécurité des Etats-Unis face, selon eux, aux visées agressives de la Russie. Les républicains sont eux de plus en plus réticents, et le patron conservateur de la Chambre des représentants, Mike Johnson, a longtemps bloqué le texte.

Il a fini par soutenir la reprise de l'aide militaire et économique, avec cette justification: «Je préfère envoyer des munitions à l'Ukraine qu'envoyer nos garçons se battre» . Parmi les autres volets du grand plan: 13 milliards de dollars d'assistance militaire à Israël, en guerre contre le Hamas; plus de 9 milliards de dollars pour «répondre au besoin urgent d'aide humanitaire à Gaza et à d'autres populations vulnérables dans le monde» ; et 8 milliards de dollars pour tenir tête à la Chine sur le plan militaire et venir en aide à Taïwan.

• Attaque iranienne contre Israël : amère, l’Ukraine demande davantage d’aide occidentale face aux missiles russes
• La République tchèque et la Slovaquie s’écharpent sur l’aide à l’Ukraine

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Plus d'options

le 23/04/2024 à 09:25

Un peu de réalisme ... cela ne change rien à court terme à cause de la non disponibilité des armes et des munitions ... l'Ukraine a besoin de plus de munitions que ce que l'Occident produit . De plus le plan de 61 milliards c'est seulement 13,8 en armements et munitions et théoriquement autant en armes de défense donc en Patriot ou équivalent qui sont indisponibles ...

hephaistos1

le 23/04/2024 à 09:06

«Je préfère envoyer des munitions à l'Ukraine qu'envoyer nos garçons se battre» ni l'un ni l'autre

le 23/04/2024 à 08:57

Trump s'est fait proprement allumer par son maître poutine, comme quoi il ne tenait plus ses troupes... Je ne sais pas quelles seront les représailles du boucher du kremlin sur sa marionnette US, mais ça promet d'être saignant !

L'Iran met en garde Israël contre l’éventualité d’une attaque contre ses sites nucléaires

Le général Ahmad Haghtalab, chef de la division de la sécurité nucléaire au sein du Corps des Gardiens de la révolution, a menacé de lancer de «puissants missiles» sur les installations nucléaires israéliennes.

Israël en colère face à de possibles sanctions américaines contre le bataillon Netzah Yehuda

Le premier ministre israélien a promis d'agir «par tous les moyens» contre d'éventuelles sanctions visant une unité formée en grande partie de soldats ultra-orthodoxes. Ceux-ci sont soupçonnés d'exactions contre des Palestiniens en Cisjordanie.

Donald Trump appelle l'Europe à se «bouger» sur l'Ukraine

L'ancien président a estimé ces derniers jours que les États-Unis devaient «arrêter de donner de l'argent sans espérer être remboursés».

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