tourist guide book peru

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Lonely Planet Peru (Travel Guide) Paperback – December 21, 2021

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Lonely Planet’s Peru is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, hike to the dramatic peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, and traverse three climatic zones in the Amazonian Parque Nacional Manu; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Peru and begin your journey now!

Inside Lonely Planet’s Peru Travel Guide:

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of [destination’s] best experiences and where to have them

What's new feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 50 maps  

Covers Lima, Arequipa, Canyon Country, Lake Titicaca, Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, the Highlands, Huaraz, the Cordilleras, Amazon Basin

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Peru , our most comprehensive guide to Peru, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

Looking for just the highlights? Check out Best of Peru , a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Print length 576 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Lonely Planet
• Publication date December 21, 2021
• Dimensions 5.1 x 0.88 x 7.75 inches
• ISBN-10 1788684257
• ISBN-13 978-1788684255
• See all details

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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Lonely Planet; 11th edition (December 21, 2021)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 576 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1788684257
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1788684255
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.31 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.1 x 0.88 x 7.75 inches
• #3 in General South America Travel Guides
• #3 in Peru Travel Guides

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• Up-to-date information -  all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak
• NEW top experiences feature  - a visually inspiring collection of [destination’s] best experiences and where to have them
• What's new feature  taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas
• NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card  with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel
• Improved planning tools for family travellers  - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids
• Colour  maps and images throughout
• Highlights   and itineraries  help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests
• Insider tips  to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
• Essential info   at your fingertips  - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices
• Honest reviews for all budgets  - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
• Cultural insights  give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics
• Over   50 maps

Covers  Lima, Arequipa, Canyon Country, Lake Titicaca, Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, the Highlands, Huaraz, the Cordilleras, Amazon Basin

eBook is available in ePub, MOBI and PDF.

ISBN: 9781788684255

Edition: 11th

Publication Date: November 2021

Writers: Brendan Sainsbury, Alex Egerton, Mark Johanson, Carolyn McCarthy, Phillip Tang, Luke Waterson

576 pages, 576pp color, 71 maps | Dimensions: 128mm × 197mm

Next edition due: October 2025

Which guidebook is right for me?

Country, city & regional guides.

• Top experience collections
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• 3D illustrations and guided tours of key sights
• Extensive coverage of history and culture
• Detailed maps throughout - includes walking maps and a pull-out planning map

EXPERIENCE guides

(country, city & regional).

• Led by local experts that reveal their favorite experiences and hidden gems
• Personal itinerary building tools
• Seasonal planning calendars
• QR codes unlock additional online content

POCKET guides

(city & regional).

• Special features cover most popular sights
• Content organized by neighborhhod
• Recommended 1, 2, 3 and 4-day itineraries
• Guided walking tours

Insight Guides Peru

This Insight Guide is a lavishly illustrated inspirational travel guide to Peru and a beautiful souvenir of your trip. Perfect for travellers looking for a deeper dive into the destination's history and culture, it's ideal to inspire and help you plan your travels. With its great selection of places to see and colourful magazine-style layout, this Peru guidebook is just the tool you need to accompany you before or during your trip. Whether it's deciding when to go, choosing what to see or creating a travel plan to cover key places like Machu Picchu, Cordillera Blanca, it will answer all the questions you might have along the way. It will also help guide you when you'll be exploring Cusco or discovering Colca Canyon on the ground. Our Peru travel guide was fully-updated post-COVID-19. The Insight Guide PERU covers:  Lima, North Coast, Northern Sierra, Callejón de Huaylas, Central Sierra, Northern Amazon, Manu to Maldonado, South Coast, Arequipa, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca. In this guide book to Peru you will find: IN-DEPTH CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL FEATURES Created to explore the culture and the history of Peru to get a greater understanding of its modern-day life, people and politics. BEST OF The top attractions and Editor's Choice featured in this Peru guide book highlight the most special places to visit. TIPS AND FACTS

Up-to-date historical timeline and in-depth cultural background to Peru as well as an introduction to Peru's food and drink, and fun destination-specific features. PRACTICAL TRAVEL INFORMATION A-Z of useful advice on everything from when to go to Peru, how to get there and how to get around, as well as Peru's climate, advice on tipping, etiquette and more.   COLOUR-CODED CHAPTERS Every part of Peru, from North Coast to Lake Titicaca has its own colour assigned for easy navigation of this Peru travel guide. CURATED PLACES, HIGH-QUALITY MAPS Geographically organised text, cross-referenced against full-colour, high-quality travel maps for quick orientation in Abu Lima, Trujillo and many other locations in Peru. STRIKING PICTURES This guide book to Peru features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Plaza Mayor and the spectacular Llaca Valley.

Description

Book details.

This title is a part of Insight Guides Main Series

Inspirational, lavishly illustrated travel guides to countries and regions that provide all you need for every step of your journey. With in-depth features on culture and history and stunning colour photography throughout, they are perfect for inspiration as well as a souvenir of your trip, while detailed place chapters and travel tips make it ideal for trip planning.

In-depth coverage of the destination's history, landscapes, wildlife, people and culture, from the arts to sports.

The destination’s top ten attractions and editor’s choice of what to see and do at the beginning of each guide

Practical travel information includes when to go, getting there, getting around, entry requirements, food and drink highlights, and everything you need to know about local culture

Colour-coded chapters travel around each city or region in a highly-readable descriptive style, featuring fascinating historical information as well as detailed information on points of interest, backed up by handy tips on what to look out for when you’re there

Colour-coded detailed maps with key sights marked up by number and corresponding to the places chapters

Beautiful, inspirational full-colour photography throughout brings the destination to life and makes the book a memorable souvenir of a trip

Printed on paper from responsible sources verified to meet FSC’s strict environmental and social standards

Free eBook with each purchased printed guide

Format: 152 x 228mm

Price: £14.99-£18.99 | $22.99-$26.99

Extent: 248–464 pages

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© Gianella Castro

Peru is as complex as its most intricate and exquisite weavings. Festivals mark ancient rites, the urban vanguard fuels innovation and nature bestows splendid diversity.

Best Time to Visit

Best places to visit, leave the planning to a local expert.

Experience the real Peru. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Travelers have their heads literally in the clouds when visiting the walled jungle fortress Kuélap in the northern highlands of Peru – the gateway to the…

Laguna Parón

Cordillera Blanca

The largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca — a snowcapped range of the Andes in west central Peru — and a gorgeous natural reservoir, Laguna Paron is a…

Chavín de Huántar

Huaraz & the Cordilleras

In most people's minds, Chavín is less a town and more a set of ruins – not any old ruins, but the erstwhile ceremonial center of one of Peru's most…

North Coast

Before metal or ceramic was invented and well before the Maya and Inca cultures ruled, there was Caral, the oldest civilization in the Americas. Having…

Isla Amantaní

Lake Titicaca

Of the small remote islands dotted around Lake Titicaca, Isla Amantaní is the least visited. Its population is just 4000, is a few kilometers north of the…

Belén Mercado

At the southeast end of town is the floating shantytown of Belén, consisting of scores of huts, built on rafts, which rise and fall with the river. During…

Monasterio de Santa Catalina

This convent shouldn’t be missed, even if you’ve overdosed on colonial edifices. Occupying a whole block and guarded by imposing high walls, it is one of…

Huacas del Sol y de la Luna

If there's one must-see archaeological site in the region, this is it. The Temples of the Sun and the Moon, attributed to the Moche period, are more than…

Top picks from our travel experts

The 10 best experiences you can have in peru.

Reserva Nacional de Paracas

South Coast

This vast desert reserve occupies most of the Península de Paracas and houses remote beaches backed by dramatic arid landscapes and plenty of wonderful…

Islas Ballestas

Grandiosely nicknamed the ‘poor man’s Galápagos,’ the Islas Ballestas make for a memorable excursion. The only way to get here is on a boat tour, offered…

Parque Nacional Manu

Amazon Basin

This vast national park in the Amazon Basin covers almost 20,000 sq km and is one of the best places in South America to see a stunning variety of…

Planning Tools

Expert guidance to help you plan your trip.

Best Things to Do

With the Andes, the Amazon rainforest, and an epic coastline, Peru is a wonderland for adventurers. These are our 10 favorite experiences you can't miss.

Things to Know

Gain local insight on Peruvian culture, etiquette and safety before you travel to this South American hotspot.

Transportation

Exploring Peru is a real adventure and worth every minute of extra planning. Here’s our guide to getting around once you're here.

Visa Requirements

Curious if you need a visa for visiting Peru? Here's all you need to know.

Money and Costs

Peru has long been a destination for backpackers on a budget and now other travelers have caught on – here's how to make your money go further on the road.

Best Road Trips

From lesser-known pre-Incan archaeological sites to lush jungles and tranquil beaches, these are the best road trips in Peru.

Traveling with Kids

Every adventure-seeking family with a great appetite should have Peru on their "dream destinations" list. Here are the best things to do there with kids.

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Experience the real Peru

Let a local expert craft your dream trip.

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Peru and beyond

Peru guide books, which ones are the best?

Although we are supremely proud about our online Peru guide, we know that when you are actually travelling you will not always have access to the internet, and you might feel the need to purchase a guide book. So which Peru guide books are available, and which are the best? We have put together a short list of the most popular guide books available, and what we think of them!

Lonely Planet – Peru Country Guide

Founded in 1972 the Lonely Planet is one of the best known travel associations, and is the world’s largest travel guide book publisher in the world. With over 500 titles in 8 languages they are considered the best authority on travel.

The 7th edition of their Peru guide was released in April 2010, and is a comprehensive guide covering all of Peru. The edition includes extended information on The Inca Trail, Outdoor activities and Lima’s world-renowned culinary scene.

Individual chapters can be purchased at $4.95 from their official website. Potentially aimed at low to medium budget travellers.

Our Verdict: Simply one of the most informative travel guides to Peru available. The popularity of these guides speak for the quality of the content inside. Recent editions of this guide include more colour, however boring layouts and small text make it difficult to read. Potentially only aimed at backpacker or budget travellers.

Frommer’s – Peru Guide

The first Frommer’s guide book was published in 1957, by Arthur Frommer its founder. Nowadays, there are 350 guide book publications, with over 3500 destinations covered on their award winning website.

The latest Peru guide has 480 pages of extensive information about all the important Peruvian departments, and tourist attractions. The well written and colorful pages add to the reading experience and interesting side articles are informative.

The guide also includes a “Best of” section featuring the most intriguing ruins, best museums, best nature experiences, small towns and villages, architecture, festivals and celebrations, local dining and more.

Rough Guide to Peru

The Rough Guides series began with the 1982 edition of “A Guide to Greece”, and has grown over the last 3 decades to include some 200 destinations. These guide books focus on medium to high budget travellers, including more information on up-market hotels and touring options.

The 658 page guide that includes 78 maps and features a 32 page full colour introduction, offers detailed information on all travel aspects of Peru.

Our Verdict: Another great guide full of useful and informative content. Authors are knowledgeable, and have compiled a comprehensive guide to everything you will need to know about planning a tour of Peru. This guide competes with the very best.

Eyewitness Travel Guides – Peru

Dorling Kindersley Books of Great Britain, who are better known for their series of non fictional books about interesting topics, have now published a Guide to Peru.

The 352 page media rich Peru guide is conveniently split into easy read categories, including information on regions of Peru, tourist attractions, where to stay and dine.

Our verdict: Eyewitness Travel Guides are still in their infancy with regards to publishing comprehensive and informative travel guides. Although the Peru guide is full of attractive and colorful pages which are useful in the planning stage, there seems to be a lack of in-depth detail which many readers are looking for. The easy read layout of the book is a real plus, and future revisions will prove to be a real player.

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Nomadic Matt's Travel Site

Travel Better, Cheaper, Longer

Peru Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 1, 2023

Travelers flock to Peru to hike the famous Inca Trail, explore the lush jungles, and devour their way through the incredible food scene of Lima.

But while the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu attract the majority of the attention (2,500 people visit Machu Picchu every day), there is much more to see and do in Peru if you’re willing to get out there and explore.

From the famous Lake Titicaca to the beaches in the north to the vibrant indigenous culture, Peru is bursting with things to see and do.

While many travelers just visit for a week to see the highlights, you can easily spend a month here (or more) and still not see everything.

Best of all, traveling around Peru is inexpensive. You don’t need a lot of money to visit here (even if you hike the Inca trail).

This guide to Peru can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most out of your time in this beautiful destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Peru

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Peru

1. Explore Machu Picchu

This legendary “lost city of the Incas” is one of the most-visited tourist attractions in South America. Here you have the chance to wander around the old Inca city observing ancient aqueducts, granite and limestone temples, and other forms of Inca architecture that are all beautifully preserved. There are two ways to see Machu Picchu depending on the amount of adventure and exercise you want. There is a 4-day/3 night hike that takes you through 43 kilometers (26 miles) of steep, yet scenic uphill terrain along winding Andean mountain trails starting from Ollantaytambo. The Inca Trail gets you to the majestic Machu Picchu at dawn in time to see it before the clouds arrive mid-morning. The alternative is to wake up super early to get the train there and enter along with the tour groups competing for the beautiful morning sunset photos. (There are also longer 7-8 day hikes too if you want an even bigger challenge. Multi-day hikes start around 2,600 PEN. You can also just buy a day pass if you don’t want to hike.

2. Check out Lima

Lima is a chaotic and beautiful introduction to the country. Check out the trendy, vibrant Miraflores neighborhood that overlooks the Pacific and has plenty of restaurants and bars to try. Also, visit the Larco Museum to see its pre-Columbian artifacts, the Aliaga House for Peruvian art and artifacts, and Plaza Mayor for colonial beauty. Tour the city’s colorful markets for both food and shopping, wander around the world’s only Cat Park, or check out the Park of Love for good luck in love. At night, head to the artsy Barranco district for the nightlife and try a local drink with pisco, a local brandy. The city is a foodie hub too so don’t forget to try the ceviche!

3. Fly over the Nazca Lines

The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs that dominate the San José desert and Nazca Valley. There are over 10,000 lines and 300 different plant and animal figures that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site. No one really knows how they got there (maybe aliens?) but the park itself is free to visit. If you want to splash out and get a better view, take a scenic helicopter or plane tour (they cost around 400 PEN).

4. Relax at Lake Titicaca

This stunning lake covers over 7,790 square kilometers (3,000 square miles) and sits at 3,810 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level, making it the world’s largest high-altitude lake. With deep blue water and spectacular sunsets across the lake lined with snowy mountains, this lake attracts people from all over the world to the nearby towns, which offer a mix of colonial architecture and bustling markets. There are three islands on the lake that are home to pre-Inca ruins: Isla del Sol, Taquile, and Amantani. Every year, the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca at Puno celebrates the Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria in February. However, the best and driest time to visit is June, July, and August.

5. Hike the Colca Canyon

Other things to see and do in peru, 1. hike the inca trail.

Getting to Machu Picchu is best via the famed Inca Trail . This multi-day hike allows you to see the mountains, jungles, and follow the route the Incas used to take. It is a truly spectacular hike, but it is challenging and you may experience altitude sickness. There are two ways to do this hike: you can sign up to be part of an organized tour, or you can hire your own private guide. You cannot hike the trail independently. Tours start around 2,600 PEN for a 4-day, 3-night tour with a reliable, reputable company. The final leg of the hike can actually get a bit crowded, so if you can do a longer 7-day hike you’ll be able to beat the crowds and enjoy the incredible landscape before you arrive. The driest time is May-October but also unfortunately the most crowded. If you go from November-April, prepare for mud and perhaps rain but fewer crowds.

2. Visit the Islas Flotantes de los Uros

The Floating Islands of the Uros may sound like an Indiana Jones title, but it is actually the name of the group of man-made islands in Lake Titicaca. The islands are home to the indigenous Uros people who have built their own houses, islands, and boats from the tortora reeds which grow along the banks of the lake. This is an extremely touristy site and is a bit exploited as such, so it’s not for everyone. The boat tours start at 165 PEN.

3. Surf at Máncora Beach

Great fresh seafood, watersports, horseback riding, whale watching, fishing with locals, visiting the mangroves, and plenty of relaxation are the order of the day at this popular beach resort. Máncora is one of the finest beaches in South America and its year-round sunshine, two ocean currents, and beginner-friendly waves also make it Peru’s surfing Mecca. Accommodation prices can be expensive from December to March, so it’s best to book in advance. Whale watching costs 135 PEN, surfing classes start at 95 PEN, and SUP tours with sea turtles cost 175 PEN.

4. Step back through time at Batán Grande

Batán Grande, also known as the Sicán Archaeological Complex, is an archaeological site comprising 50 pyramids and tombs, which are thought to date to 750-1300 CE. Located near Chiclayo, this site was once the ancient Sicán capital and has yielded many impressive pre-Columbian artifacts. For example, a gold Tumi ceremonial knife weighing almost seven pounds was recovered from one of the royal tombs! Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and snacks for the day.

5. Discover Cusco

This colonial city is a major tourist destination and sits on Inca-built stone foundations not far from Machu Picchu. The area is popular with trail walkers, history lovers, and party goers who come to enjoy the city’s nightlife and festivals. Cusco is the undisputed archaeological capital of the Americas and an essential part of your trip to Peru. The Cusco Tourist Ticket grants admission to most of the popular archaeological sites and attractions in the Cusco area (with some notable exceptions, including Machu Picchu). Note that transportation and guide services are separate. You can purchase either a 10-day pass that includes admission to over 16 sites (130 PEN) or one of several different “circuit” tickets that include admission to a smaller number of sites and are valid for one day only (70 PEN). Be sure to visit Coricancha (15 PEN) and Sacsayhuaman (included in the Cusco Tourist Ticket) during your visit. Right outside Cusco, take a day trip to the incredible Rainbow Mountains. For great food, head to Green Point. Plan to spend around 3-5 days in Cusco as there is plenty to see and it’s a good place to acclimate before doing any hiking as the city sits at 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) above sea level.

6. Get your Amazon fix in Iquitos

Accessible only by boat or plane, jungle-locked Iquitos is the largest city within the Peruvian rainforest. The city sits at the mouth of the Amazon and is the perfect destination for eco-tourism. The nearby Pacaya Samiria National Reserve is Peru’s largest reserve at two million hectares. It’s home to a huge range of nearly 1,000 birds, mammals, fish, reptiles, and more. A 3-day, 2-night tour through the reserve starts from around 1,400-1,500 PEN per person including food.

7. Sandboard in Huacachina

This little town is a desert oasis and a welcome relief after hiking through Machu Picchu. It’s very affordable and hostels here offer great deals for sandboarding and sand buggy tours around the nearby dunes. Two-hour tours cost about 100-125 PEN, which includes a sand buggy driver and sandboard rental. Most tours leave around 4pm so you can catch the sunset on the dunes. There is also a lagoon surrounded by palm trees in Huacachina, and you can rent a rowboat to paddle around it. A half-hour rental costs around 5 PEN per person. Huacachina is easily reached by bus from Lima, Cusco, Nazca, Arequipa, and Paracas.

8. See penguins in Paracas

Paracas is in the south of Peru and is sometimes called the “Poor Man’s Galapagos” for its impressive wildlife, consisting of over 400 different species. Thousands of birds, as well as large sea lion and penguin populations, call the area home. You can visit the Paracas National Reserve via an organized boat tour. Be sure to go early. A full-day tour of Paracas includes a boat trip to the Islas Ballestas and a bus trip around the national reserve in the afternoon. It costs about 150 PEN.

9. Walk through the White City

Arequipa is a beautiful city with a historical center that was constructed primarily from volcanic rock. Start getting to know the city by wandering around the Plaza de Armas and take in the city’s architecture over a glass of wine overlooking the main square with views of the stunning Basilica Catedral de Arequipa. Then, visit the gorgeous, vibrantly colorful Santa Catalina Monastery, see a frozen Inca mummy, and enjoy the local cuisine with favorites like shrimp soup or spicy stuffed peppers. It’s easy to see why Arequipa is undoubtedly one of the most beloved destinations in the country; everyone who visits here loves it.

10. Go to El Parque de la Reserva

This park in downtown Lima is home to the largest water fountain complex in the world, called El Circuito Mágico del Agua . There are 13 distinct fountains in total, including the Tunnel Fountain of Surprises, the Children’s Fountain, and the Fantasia Fountain, whose water jets are synchronized to music during the evening laser light shows. The park is open daily from 3pm-10pm, with beautiful, colorful light shows taking place at 6:50pm, 7:50pm, 8:30pm, and 9:30pm. The entrance fee is 4 PEN. The park also hosts a lot of events and is a popular place with dog owners too.

11. Visit Chachapoyas

This region in the Andean mountains was home to the Chachapoya civilization that lived there between 500-1432 (they were eventually conquered by the Aztecs). Today, you can visit Kuelap, the fortified city at known as “The Machu Picchu of the North.” The ruins are accessible via a guided tour, 4-hour hike, or cable car from the nearby town of Nuevo Tingo for 21 PEN roundtrip. Be sure to also visit Gocta, a beautiful waterfall that, at 770 meters (2,526 feet), is one of the tallest in the world. You can get there by taking a tour from Chachapoyas.

12. Tour Trujillo

Trujillo is the second-oldest Spanish city in Peru, located on the coast with eternal spring-like weather and widely considered the capital culture of Peru. While here, visit the archaeological site of Chan Chan, the world’s largest adobe city ever built and the largest pre-Columbian city. It was built by the Chimu, a civilization that inhabited the area until 1470 when they were defeated by the Incas. Admission is 11 PEN. Be sure to also visit Huanchaco, a small fishing town directly on the beach.

13. See Vinicunca, Rainbow Mountain

Chances are you’ve seen these colorful mountains on social media. Over the past few years, Rainbow Mountain has become a huge tourist attraction. Just keep in mind that the colors are not as vivid in real life and the place is super crowded (it’s a very popular site). Day trips and multi-day hikes are available from Cusco, usually starting around 110-135 PEN per person. There is also an “Alternative” Rainbow Mountain called Palcccoyo where you can enjoy an incredibly colorful scenic panoramic at 5,200 meters (17,060 feet). If you want to escape the hordes of people (though it’s also pretty busy these days).

14. Hike the Salkantay

If you want an alternative to the busy Inca Trail, try hiking the Salkantay. It sees a fraction of the tourists and is half the price of the Inca Trail — but just as stunning! There aren’t as many ruins, but there are epic mountain views and summits of up to 5,200 meters (17.060 feet)! Hikes can vary in length, but the 7-day hike offers the best views. You’ll need to be in decent shape though. 5-day hikes start around 1,700 PEN.

Peru Travel Costs

Accommodation – A bed in a 4-6-bed dorm costs 35-65 PEN while a bed in a dorm with 10 or more beds generally costs 32-38 PEN. A private room costs 115-170 PEN per night. Free Wi-Fi is standard and most hostels also have a kitchen or include free breakfast.

Budget hotel rooms with basic amenities like Wi-Fi, TV, and occasionally free breakfast cost around 85-105 PEN per night.

On Airbnb, which has limited availability in Peru, private rooms average around 100 PEN while entire homes start at 200 PEN per night. Book early though or prices will double.

For those traveling with a tent, wild camping is permitted as long as you’re not on somebody’s land.

Food – Cuisine in Peru varies from region to region, though you can expect to find staples like potatoes (most potatoes in the world originated here), quinoa, seafood, and indigenous animals like guinea pig and alpaca. Be sure to try ceviche, which is the national dish (it’s a seafood dish with fresh raw fish). Other popular dishes include stir-fried beef, roasted cuy (guinea pig), arroz con pato (rice with duck), and roasted chicken.

Overall, dining out in Peru is very inexpensive. Street food is incredibly cheap, costing 5-7 PEN for a meal from a parrilla (grill) set up on the side of the road. A plate of food at a casual takeaway restaurant serving Peruvian cuisine costs around 10 PEN.

A meal of traditional cuisine at a casual restaurant with table service costs around 15-25 PEN. If you want to splash out, a three-course meal at a mid-range restaurant costs 45 PEN.

Fast food (think McDonald’s) is 20 PEN for a combo meal. A large pizza is around 28-30 PEN.

Beer is around 8 PEN while a glass of wine or a latte is around 9 PEN. Bottled water is 2 PEN. A cocktail is 15-20 PEN and up, though many restaurants have extended happy hour specials (sometimes even all day).

If you plan on cooking, expect to pay 60-80 PEN per week for groceries such as pasta, rice, seasonal produce, and some meat. The best places to shop are the local markets, though Plaza Vea is the big grocery store chain with affordable prices as well. However, given how cheap food is here, it’s best to just eat out all the time. Buy snacks and fruit at the markets but eat out all other meals.

Backpacking Peru Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker’s budget of 135 PEN per day, you can stay in a hostel dorm, eat out for a few meals at cheap local street stalls and cook some meals, limit your drinking, take the bus to get around, and do mostly free or cheap activities like relaxing on the beach and going hiking.

On a mid-range budget of 400 PEN per day, you can afford a private Airbnb room, eat out for all your meals, drink more, take the occasional taxi to get around, and do more paid activities like going surfing or day-tripping to Machu Picchu.

On a “luxury” budget of 700 PEN or more per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out anywhere you want, drink as much as you’d like, take some domestic flights, and do a longer multi-day trek to Machu Picchu. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in PEN.

Peru Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Peru is generally pretty cheap, but it is easy to splash out here on food and tours. Here are a few hacks to cut down your costs in Peru:

• Stay at hospedajes – These are family-run hotels and are the cheapest accommodation you can find outside of hostel dorms. Try to stay in these as often as possible.
• Take public transportation – Embrace public transportation to get around — it’s super affordable so skip the taxis. You’ll save a fortune.
• Eat the meal of the day – These are set meals, often including multiple plates, that restaurants offer. Look around for set menu meals to eat out on the cheap.
• Travel off-season – For a low-cost trip, the best times to visit Peru are the fringe months of April and May or September and October. Prices are usually cheaper during these months.
• Take the colectivos – These are cheap buses that cost around 2-10 PEN for a ride. They are a bit confusing as they don’t necessarily have a schedule, but there is always a door person whom you can ask if the bus is going to your location. There are not always marked bus stops, so look for gathering crowds.
• Book tours last minute – If you are looking to do the Inca Trail and have a bit of extra time to wait for a deal, showing up in Cusco and booking a last-minute tour can save you lots of money. Booking months in advance means paying the premium price but if you can wait your patience may be rewarded. I wouldn’t recommend trying to get on last-minute if you have your heart set on doing it though since it might not work out.
• Go on a free walking tour – This is a great way to learn the history behind the places you are seeing and avoid missing any must-see stops. Free Walking Tour Peru has tours that can guide you around both Lima and Cusco. Just remember to tip your guide at the end!
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here isn’t safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle with a filter to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Peru

Peru has a ton of hostels. Here are some of my favorite places to stay throughout the country:

• Pariwana Hostel (Lima)
• 1900 Backpackers Hostel (Lima)
• Loki Hostel (Cusco)
• Kokopelli (Cusco)
• Wild Rover Hostel (Cusco)
• Hospedaje Turistico Recoleta (Cusco)
• Arequipay Backpackers Downtown (Arequipa)
• Loki del Mar (Mancora)
• The Point Mancora Beach (Mancora)

How to Get Around Peru

Public transportation – City buses cost around 1.50-3 PEN per trip. Microbuses ( colectivos ) are available and prices vary depending on the distance. Trips generally cost 2-10 PEN, though they are a bit hectic and take some getting used to.

Bus – Buses can take you all over Peru and are the most common way to get around for budget travelers. The usual price for a 10-hour bus journey is around 40 PEN depending on how nice the bus company is. You can use Cruz del Sur to look up bus schedules and prices. Keep in mind that any journey through the mountains will be a slow ride! Lima to Cusco takes over 21 hours and costs 185 PEN, though you can get a ticket for as low as 39 PEN if you book in advance.

Peru Hop is another reliable and comfortable bus company designed for backpackers. This bus is a hop-on/hop-off service you can take around the country. Three-day journeys from Lima to Cusco start from 683 PEN, while 7 days in Southern Peru costs 836 PEN.

Flying – Peru has five international airports (Lima, Arequipa, Cusco, Iquitos, and Piura), as well over a dozen airports with domestic service. LATAM, Avianca, and Star Peru are the main domestic airlines.

Flying between destinations isn’t always the cheapest option, but it’s a whole lot quicker. A flight from Lima to Cusco takes just over an hour (as opposed to the 21 hours by bus) and prices start around 250 PEN. Lima to Arequipa starts around 200 PEN.

Train – Like the rest of South America, the rail system in Peru is basically non-existent. There are nice tourist options though, like PeruRail and Inca Rail, which both run trains between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu Pueblo (the gateway to Machu Picchu). On PeruRail, tickets start from 179 PEN. Inca Rail also runs between Cusco and Machu Picchu Pueblo with tickets starting around 220 PEN.

From Lima, there’s just one train: the Ferrocarril Central Andino, the world’s highest passenger train, which travels across the Andes to Cerro de Pasco and Huancayo. One-way fare starts from 230 PEN. However, service is limited — sometimes the train only runs once a month. Journeys are currently suspended due to Covid so be sure to check their website for updates.

Car rental – I don’t suggest renting a car here as the drivers are aggressive, the roads are poorly maintained, and accidents are common. If you do decide to rent a car, use Discover Cars to find the best prices.

When to Go to Peru

Peru has just two seasons: wet and dry. May through October is the dry season, while November through April is the rainy season. The wettest months are from January to the end of April. This isn’t a great time to visit Peru — at least not in the mountain areas, where roads and hiking trails may become blocked or closed.

Most people come to Peru from the beginning of May to the end of November, with July and August being the busiest months. May and September are great months to visit, as tourism slows down slightly but temperatures are still pleasant.

If you want to spend more time in the mountains, June to September has clear, sunny days (but chilly nights). This is a good time to trek the Inca Trail. It’s also the best time to visit the Amazon Basin, when mosquitos are fewer.

Temperatures on the desert coast can get as high as 25-35°C (77-95°F) from December to April, while temperatures cool off from May-October. In the highlands from May-October, you can expect temperatures to reach 20-25°C (68-77°F).

How to Stay Safe in Peru

Peru is a pretty safe place to backpack and travel around, even for solo travelers, and even for solo female travelers. Your biggest worry is petty theft, which is rampant in the bigger cities and on overnight buses. Don’t flaunt expensive jewelry or belongings. Avoid taking your phone out in public if you can. Lock your bags on overnight buses and keep your valuables secure and out of sight. It’s easy to get robbed if you aren’t careful here (especially at night).

If you’re in Lima, don’t walk around alone at night, unless you’re in the safer neighborhoods (Miraflores and Barranco). Smaller cities and towns are perfectly safe to walk around alone day and night.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

Scams aren’t super common but if you’re worried about getting ripped off, here’s a list of common travel scams to avoid .

If you’re doing any hiking, check the weather in advance and bring plenty of water. If you’re hiking to Machu Picchu, arrive early to adjust to the altitude. 3-5 days early can make all the difference!

If you experience an emergency, dial 011 for assistance. If you’re in one of the bigger cities, you can also seek out the tourism police.

For more in-depth coverage of how to stay safe in Peru, check out this post that answers some frequently asked questions and concerns.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Peru Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Peru Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Peru travel and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hostels in Cusco

The 4 Best Tour Companies in Peru

Is Peru Safe to Visit?

How to Hike the Inca Trail

How to Turn Right at Machu Picchu and Find Atlantis

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• Where To Stay
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• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

The ultimate Peru travel guide

When you think Peru , chances are it’s Machu Picchu on your mind. But, although spectacular, the famous Incan archaeological site outside of Cusco is only one of a million reasons to visit this incredibly vibrant Latin American country!

Encompassing large stretches of beautiful coastline, lush rainforests, expansive deserts with sparkling oases, some of the world’s best alpine trekking, and, of course, impeccably preserved reminders of the ancient civilisations that once flourished here, Peru is one of the most diverse and fascinating countries in the entire world.

I’ve spent 2 months travelling around Peru across a couple of trips, and in that time I fell hard and fast for the chaos of the local markets, the unbreakable spirit of the Andean people, the rainbow of colours that light up the cities, and the seemingly endless natural beauty, much of which is still largely untouched and surprisingly rugged. This travel guide contains everything you need to know before visiting Peru, including  when to visit, how to get around, all the best things to see & do, itinerary recommendations, health & safety, typical costs, a packing list & heaps more!

What's in this travel guide

Population:  32 million

Capital:  Lima

Language:  Spanish (and Quechua)—  read more about the  Language barrier  below

Currency:  Sol (abbreviated S/ or S/.)— read more about  Money in Peru  below

Power:  Type A plug  (used in America) and sometimes Type C plug  (used throughout Europe) at 220V—  Americans need to ensure they are travelling with dual voltage electronics

Visa:  A free travel visa for stays of up to 6 months is issued on arrival (at the airport) for citizens of most countries, including Australia , America , and UK  

Good to know: Many travellers don’t realise until they’re actually in Peru that it’s a fairly large country— the 3rd largest in South America, actually! You need time to explore it properly, so if you only have a few weeks, it’s better to focus on just one main region rather than spending your entire trip on a bus (like the 24hr bus from Lima to Cusco). See Itinerary recommendations and my specific Peru itineraries for lots of inspiration.

Planning your trip to Peru

Best time to visit peru.

Peru is a phenomenal year-round destination, but there are definitely times that will be better for visiting the coast, Machu Picchu, the Amazon, and the Andes:

• Lima: sunniest and most beautiful in the winter (December – February)
• Huacachina, Paracas, Mancora: fairly consistent sunny weather all year
• Cusco & Machu Picchu: decidedly more enjoyable during the dry season from June – August (the Inca Trail actually closes every February due to intense rain)
• The Amazon: cooler and drier from around May – October   (temps can still get up into the 30s)
• The Andes , including mountains in the Cusco and Huaraz region: for trekking, the most consistent nice weather is from late June – early September (it’s still possible to get rain and snow, but it’s far less likely or prolonged)

Essentially, the wet season at the start/end of the year is not great in the mountains or at Machu Picchu , but if this is your only time to travel, you can still have a wonderful trip, especially along the coast. I spent a month in Peru in December a few years back and loved every wet minute— but  the clear sunrise at Machu Picchu and the blue skies over the Cordillera Huayhuash during my more recent August visit were undoubtedly more picturesque .

Unsurprisingly, the dry season is a busier time of year with many North Americans and Europeans taking summer holidays, but the only real impact this has on your trip is the need to reserve things a little bit farther in advance. For Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail in particular, this means booking 6+ months before your trip if you aren’t flexible on dates.

Getting to Peru

Flights to peru.

A majority of travellers to Peru will  fly into Lima through the   Jorge Chávez International Airport , situated just 10km (20-30min drive) from the city centre or 18km (40-60min drive) from the popular tourist districts of Miraflores and Barranco .

Depending on where you’re flying from, you might have a layover in Santiago or Buenos Aires, but  Lima is a major hub for Latin America, so flights are typically reasonably priced and fairly direct these days . When I flew to Lima from Sydney in 2014, it cost $2,300 and involved 4 flights, but when I flew in 2019, it was just $1,200 and included only a single stopover in Chile. From the US, flights can be as little as $500 return if you catch them at the right time!

Buses to Peru

It’s also possible to arrive overland from Ecuador , Bolivia , Chile or, to a lesser extent, Brazil and Colombia . There’s a bit of a shuffle involved at the border when you have to disembark, typically walking the final metres into Peru via an immigration office and then re-boarding the bus on the other side, but it’s manageable if you have a base level of Spanish.

There are, however, tensions around some Latin American borders, so I’d always check on a trusted website (like Australia’s Smart Traveller ) to make sure it’s safe to cross overland— at present, it is recommended to avoid the Peru-Ecuador and Peru-Colombia borders for safety reasons.

Getting around Peru

Transport between cities, public buses in peru.

Peru actually has one of the best networks of public buses I’ve seen anywhere in the world and there’s rarely a need to take internal flights (the exception being between Cusco and Lima, which you should 100% fly).

All main cities in Peru have large bus stations (sometimes several) that service  heaps of near and far destinations around the country, buses constantly running throughout the day and night, dozens of competing companies , and trips at a fraction of the cost of flying.

I’ve taken countless bus journeys around South America and  Peru’s buses are definitely among the best in terms of comfort and actually running on time  (looking at you, Colombia ). 

RedBus is my favourite site for checking bus times and routes in advance and  I’d also recommend reading this post for  heaps of info about booking bus tickets in Peru.

Tourist buses in Peru

With some itineraries, there’s also the option to  travel with Peru Hop ,  a new hop-on/hop-off bus service from Lima to Cusco via a number of destinations, some popular and some hidden gems . It’s more expensive than travelling by public bus, true, but it has some definite draws— added convenience of hostel pick-up/drop-off, cool extra stops along the journey, and a whole bus of fun backpackers to hang out with.

After travelling around Peru for several months by public bus and then with Peru Hop,   I wrote a super in-depth comparison to help you decide which is better for you!  If you’re travelling alone or if it’s your first time in Latin America, I’d absolutely recommend it.

Read more:   TRAVELLING WITH PERU HOP VS PUBLIC BUSES: AN HONEST COMPARISON

Transport within the city

Colectivos in peru.

All major cities in Peru have   buses and  colectivos  (shared minibuses) and these are an incredibly inexpensive way to get around (S/1-4 for most journeys). Ask at your hostel/any local where the best stop is for a particular destination and then lurk around the area until someone drives by shouting Miraflores, Miraflores, Miraflores!! or the like.

Full disclosure, this kind of public transport can be pretty difficult and stressful if you don’t have a good grasp of navigation (or the Spanish language) — I once got so lost after a  colectivo  journey in Lima that it took me 8hrs to find my way back to the hostel. I’d only recommend this if you’re somewhat familiar with your surroundings, travelling with another person, and have absolutely no where to be anytime soon.

Taxis in Peru

Taxis are also inexpensive ; not so much as the colectivos , but you can still estimate S/3-5 for a 10min drive across town, which is super reasonable. You need to be careful when taking taxis in some cities (specifically in Lima), so it’s recommended to have your hostel call one for you in the evenings or if you’re travelling alone , just as an extra precaution.

In almost all instances, the driver will negotiate the fare with you rather than reading off a metre — it’s a good idea to have at least a ballpark idea of a fair price so you don’t get swindled!

Uber in Peru

Major cities in Peru (like Lima and Cusco) also have Uber, and I’d definitely recommend this over taking a taxi. It tends to be cheaper, is generally believed to be safer, and removes the need to barter over a fare with the driver (which is tricky when you don’t know exactly what the fare should be).

Camping beneath Rasac in the Cordillera Huayhuash

What to do in Peru

Top sights & destinations in peru.

I’ve written comprehensive guides to just about every city and major destination in Peru, so this is just a brief idea of where to go and what you might do on your trip. Links to more detailed posts are provided throughout.

Peru’s coastal capital is a great place to start your trip, sampling some of the country’s best food at world-famous restaurants or even joining a cooking class to learn the art of ceviche . There are also heaps of parks to explore along the water, great surfing beaches, and even pre-Inca ruins within walking distance of the main tourist district, Miraflores . If you want to get out of the city, colourful Paracas and the Islas Ballestas are accessible as a day trip.

WHAT TO DO IN LIMA: 10 AWESOME ACTIVITIES IN THE PERUVIAN CAPITAL

A COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDE TO PARACAS, PERU: ISLAS BALLESTAS, PARACAS NATURE RESERVE & MORE

• BUEN APETITO: A DELICIOUS COOKING CLASS WITH SKYKITCHEN PERU IN LIMA

Surrounded by golden sand dunes and bathed in perpetual sunshine, the tiny town of Huacachina is quickly becoming a favourite destination for visitors to Peru’s Pacific Coast. From sandboarding and dune buggy rides to paragliding over the desert , there’s no shortage of adventures to be had—but the relaxed beauty of South America’s only oasis is just as sure to blow you away! 

8 AWESOME THINGS TO DO IN HUACACHINA, PERU

• SANDBOARDING IN HUACACHINA, PERU’S AMAZING DESERT OASIS

Said to be Peru’s most beautiful city, Arequipa is dominated by brilliant white colonial churches , vibrant palms, and volcano views in every direction.  The city itself is absolutely enchanting , but the main draw for adventure travellers is nearby Colca Canyon, the world’s largest canyon and the site of one of Peru’s classic treks.

12 BEST DAY HIKES AND MULTI-DAY TREKS IN PERU

Once considered the spiritual and political heart of the vast Inca empire,  Cusco  (meaning “centre of the universe” in Quechua) is still  one of the most vibrant and historically significant cities in Latin America . It’s somewhere that absolutely every traveller will fall in love with, whether it’s the charming cobbled lanes, local artisan markets, endless adventure activities , ancient ruins , or proximity to some of the country’s best trekking . The nearby Sacred Valley is also an incredible place to explore with Cusco as your base , as is the Amazon rainforest and Machu Picchu .

THE ULTIMATE CUSCO TRAVEL GUIDE: 25 AMAZING THINGS TO DO IN CUSCO, PERU

VIA FERRATA CLIMBING & ZIPLINING IN THE SACRED VALLEY: AN ADRENALINE-FILLED DAY TRIP FROM CUSCO

DIY INCA RUINS WALKING TOUR: VISITING TAMBOMACHAY, PUKA PUKARA, Q’ENQO & SACSAHUAMÁN WITHOUT A GUIDE

A GUIDE TO TREKKING AUSANGATE & RAINBOW MOUNTAIN IN PERU

Machu Picchu

Nestled high in the Peruvian Andes and shrouded in thick fog, Machu Picchu is one of the world’s most enigmatic archaeological sites , continuing to reveal new secrets even a century after its “discovery” by the American explorer Hiram Bingham. It’s probably the cause of your initial interest in Peru, possibly even the entire reason you want to visit, and Machu Picchu is every bit as magical and breathtaking in person as you’ve been imagining. Whether you make the historic journey by train from Cusco or hike to the ruins along the ancient Inca Trail or the alpine Salkantay Trek , this is something NO traveller can miss.

ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT VISITING MACHU PICCHU (& NEW 2019 REGULATIONS)

HIKING TO MACHU PICCHU: COMPARING THE CLASSIC INCA TRAIL VS SALKANTAY TREK

SAVAGE MOUNTAIN TO MACHU PICCHU: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO HIKING THE SALKANTAY TREK IN PERU

• SALKANTAY TREK (DAY 4): AGUAS CALIENTES TO MACHU PICCHU & HUAYNA PICCHU

Incredibly lush, strikingly beautiful, and with  more biodiversity than just about any other place on the planet , the Amazon is one of the most spectacular areas to explore in Peru. Thanks to the enormous size of the rainforest, there are heaps of options for exploring, from water-locked Iquitos in the north to the jungle lodges of Puerto Maldonado and ecological reserves of under-rated Manu National Park in south.

INCAS & THE AMAZON: 2-3 WEEK PERU TRAVEL ITINERARY FROM LIMA TO MANU NATIONAL PARK

• PLAYING WITH MACHETES IN THE AMAZON

Peru’s trekking capital, about 10hrs north of Lima by bus, is absolutely unmissable if you want to experience the rugged beauty of Andes in the Cordillera Blanca or the lesser-explored Cordillera Huayhuash . These mountain ranges are home to most of the country’s highest peaks and absolutely unparalleled alpine trekking, particularly the Santa Cruz Trek (Blanca) and Huayhuash Circuit (Huayhuash). A seemingly infinite number of day hikes in the region make it even more appealing for a long visit.

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO INDEPENDENT & SOLO HIKING THE HUAYHUASH CIRCUIT IN PERU

• HIGHLIGHTS FROM 10 DAYS ON THE HUAYHUASH CIRCUIT
• SOLO HUAYHUASH CIRCUIT PACKING LIST: WHAT TO PACK FOR 10 DAYS WITHOUT A GUIDE
• HUANDOY VIEWPOINT & LAGUNA PARÓN: A STUNNING DAY HIKE FROM HUARAZ, PERU

BEST OF THE PERUVIAN ANDES: 3-4 WEEK PERU TREKKING ITINERARY

Itinerary recommendations for Peru

After spending 2 months in Peru, I designed several comprehensive, crazy-detailed travel itineraries to help you plan your own trip! All of the itineraries have you flying into Lima (as this is the main international transport hub), involve predominantly bus travel (to be budget conscious), and feature time in Cusco and a visit to Machu Picchu (because this should be on everyone’s list).

Other than that, these itineraries highlight different parts of the country, from the coast to the Amazon to the Andes , and are an awesome way to cram a lot of amazing places into a 2-,3-, or 4-week visit. Check out the itineraries here:

PACIFIC COAST PERU: 2-3 WEEK PERU TRAVEL ITINERARY FROM LIMA TO CUSCO

Best food & drink in Peru

Peruvian food is actually incredible and chances are you won’t have tried much of it before. If you’re an adventurous eater, the best thing to do at a restaurant is order the menu del día , since it will always feature an awesome local dish that you’re pretty much guaranteed to love .

The food generally isn’t too spicy, but will come with chilli or ají on the side for you to spice up your life. Oh, and they love starch, so be prepared to eat potatoes at every meal. Here are some must-try Peruvian delicacies:

• Ají de gallina:  shredded chicken dish with a fantastic chilli-based sauce, served with rice
• Cuy:  guinea pig is a traditional Andean meal and, if you can get over eating something so cute, it’s actually quite good (best in Cusco)
• Ceviche:  raw fish/seafood cured in lime juice and served with cilantro, chilli, crunchy corn; possibly one of the greatest culinary inventions of all time (best in Lima or Paracas, although ceviche de trucha (trout) in Cusco is also good)
• Lomo saltado:  a beef and veggie stir-fry with incredible flavour, one of my absolute favourites 
• Papas a la Huancaina:  simple but delicious potato dish with a similar chilli-based sauce to  ají de gallina , often accompanied by salty Andean cheese
• Chicha morada:  the most incredible non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn, tastes like a sugary punch
• Emoliente:  a hot, slightly thickened drink made from local herbs, typically sold from street vendors around the cities
• Pisco sour:  the national drink of Peru, a cocktail made from Pisco (fermented grape juice), lime juice, and egg white
• Inca Kola:  delicious soft drink that tastes just like creaming soda

Recommended reading for Peru

I always love reading about a country before/while I’m visiting! It’s a great way to learn more about the history of the places you’ll be seeing, but also about the culture, people, and customs. Here are my top picks for Peru:

• Turn Right at Machu Picchu // Mark Adams:   This is a great non-fiction travel book about an American writer who, hoping to discover some real adventure and prove that he’s not just a “martini explorer”, sets off on an ambitious mission to retrace Hiram Bingham’s 1911 expedition to Machu Picchu (or, rather, the expedition where he stumbled across Machu Picchu while looking for Vilcabamba). This book is wildly inspiring, very entertaining, and actually quite illuminating when it comes to the Incas, Machu Picchu, and Hiram Bingham himself. If you only read one book about Peru, this should be it, and I’d recommend reading it right before you go to Machu Picchu!
• Lost City of the Incas // Hiram Bingham :  If you can sift through the white male privilege that oozes from Bingham every time he interacts with Andean people, this is actually an incredible book— the original account of a Yale professor’s obsession with Vilcabamba, his extraordinary expedition to Peru, and his eventual “discovery” of Machu Picchu and numerous other Incan ruins. Even though he can be incredibly arrogant, it’s still impossible not to be swept up in his wild adventure or to admire his unrelenting passion.
• Trail of Feathers // Tahir Shah : Another fascinating travelogue following the journey of a man determined to discover the history of flight in Peru, which was rumoured to have predated the Wright Brothers by hundreds of years.
• Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter // Mario Vargas Llosa :  Recipient of a Nobel Prize and one of the continent’s most prominent literary icons, Mario Vargas Llosa should be required reading for anyone planning a trip to Peru. This particular book is set in Lima and concerns a young would-be writer who falls in love with his aunt (not by blood), alternating between this main storyline and short stories in the form of radio “soap operas” by a prominent Bolivian scriptwriter with whom the main character develops an odd friendship. Most people agree that the book is a thinly veiled autobiography, and it is undeniably one of the best books ever written by a Peruvian author.
• Touching the Void // Joe Simpson :  Nearly dead after an accident atop Siula Grande, a 6,344m peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash, this true account of a young mountaineer’s miraculous survival is just about as hair-raising as it gets. I read this unbelievable memoir (and also watched the documentary) before hiking the Huayhuash Circuit, and both added several layers of appreciation to my trek.
• The Bedlam Stacks // Natasha Pulley :  Part historical fiction, part magical realism, this is a fascinating story set in the late 1800s about an expedition by the East India Company to collect quinine, a powerful malaria treatment, from a mysterious Peruvian town. Although the setting is not real, elements of the story certainly could be— but most importantly, the book perfectly captures the mysticism and spirituality that are still very much a part of Peruvian culture. I read this right before planning my second trip to Peru and it had me dying to go back!

Laguna Humantay on the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

Money in Peru

Cash & cards in peru.

I’d definitely recommend carrying Peruvian Soles throughout your trip  for food, accommodation, transport, souvenir shopping, and entrance fees to various sites— the section below will give you a good idea of typical costs. 

Small notes are essential if you’re going to buy streetfood or inexpensive items from the market,  so try to break your bigger notes whenever possible (like at a restaurant or hotel).

ATMs & cambios

You can pull soles from an ATM in any of the major cities or mid-sized towns, and there’s rarely a fee with BCP (although your bank will probably charge $5-10 for the transaction).  

Avoid the GlobalNet ATMs (mainly in Lima airport, some in the city), as these are wildly expensive compared to bank-owned ATMs! 

If you have American Dollars or Euros (sometimes also GBP and to a much lesser extent AUD), you can also exchange your cash at a  cambio  in the city . American dollars are occasionally accepted by tour companies or travel agencies (e.g. if you’re booking a trek or flight, the price will often be listed in USD), but it’s still best to carry soles for a majority of purchases.

Credit cards

Cards are not a great option for everyday purchases in Peru.  Debit or credit card surcharges are often as high as 10%  and most local restaurants, artisans, and markets won’t accept card anyway. As such, it’s a good idea to  book expensive tours, transport, and accommodation in advance to avoid paying a huge fee or carrying thousands of soles in cash .

I found that most tour companies, even if they typically collected cash payment on arrival, were happy to accept a pre-payment through PayPal if I emailed to ask!

If you do end up paying with card and copping the hefty fee, VISA is sometimes preferred over Mastercard (and definitely over AMEX). I’ve had cards randomly and inexplicably rejected from certain machines in Latin America, so  it’s also a smart idea to have at least two debit/credit cards with you , just in case. 

Trip budget for Peru

Peru is an inexpensive travel destination, but of course the total cost of your trip is going to be largely dependent upon what you want to do while you’re there.

If you’re content to spend most days just wandering around and exploring the city, using public transport, and staying in bare-bones hostels, you can easily do Peru on less than S/100 ($43AUD) per day. If you want to add some additional excursions and hikes into the mix, stay in trendier hostels, and really cram your days full of every possible adventure, you’ll need more like S/200 ($85AUD) per day.

You’ll have a great time either way, but to really get the most out of Peru, budget for at least a couple pricier activities like taking a cooking class , hiking the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek , and going to the jungle.

Cost-cutting tips

• Book a hostel with free breakfast and make sure you fill up every morning on the rolls, fruit, tea, and sometimes even eggs on offer so you don’t have to buy 3 meals a day.
• Look for small local restaurants rather than touristy restaurant and always ask if they have a menu del día — this is an inexpensive daily set menu that usually includes a soup, main dish, and drink for S/5-10 (also a great way to try new food!).
• If you want to join a tour out to Rainbow Mountain , the Sacred Valley , Huacachina etc, you can usually find much cheaper last-minute deals when you book at a local travel agency in town rather than on the internet — the quality of tours is quite high in Peru, so even the super budget options will be enjoyable and can be a fraction of the cost.
• Research DIY alternatives to popular tours , as it can often be perfectly easy to tackle a hike alone or visit ruins on foot rather than spending the money to join a group.
• Always take the night bus — not only does it maximise your time in each city, but it also saves money on accomodation for that night.

Typical expenses in Peru

• Dorm bed in a nice hostel: S/25-45
• Airbnb, whole apartment: S/100-170
• Hotel room for two: S/100-300+
• Lunch at a casual restaurant: S/5-10 for the menu del día
• Street food: S/1-2
• Dinner at a restaurant: S/10 for the menu del día , S/15-30 otherwise
• Drink from a restaurant or bar: S/5-15
• Bottle of water: S/1
• Snack from convenience store: S/1-2
• Bus to the airport: S/25 Airport Express Bus from Lima Airport
• Bus to another city: S/20-150
• Internal flights: $30-100AUD from Cusco to Lima
• Entry to Machu Picchu : S/150 (S/200 including Huayna Picchu)
• Day tour to Rainbow Mountain : S/60
• Inca Trail hike : $1,100AUD
• Salkantay Trek hike : $580AUD

Me and dad at Huandoy Viewpoint

Practical considerations for Peru

Health concerns in peru.

The water in Peru is not safe to drink straight from the tap , which leaves most travellers to buy several plastic water bottles every single day. Although inexpensive, this is TERRIBLE for the environment, so I’d strongly encourage you to get a filtered water bottle instead, which will allow you to fill up from any water source (bathroom tap, stream, etc) and still enjoy clean, safe drinking water.

Some very sensitive people avoid brushing their teeth with tap water, but I’ve never had (or known anyone who has had) an issue with this in Peru. It is also true that you should avoid ice cubes in places where the water is unsafe, but it should be fine to have ice in your drinks or eat washed vegetables in most restaurants, particularly touristy restaurants.

Vaccinations & medication

Thankfully, there aren’t too many diseases you need to worry about in Peru and no vaccinations actually required for entry . If you’re travelling to northern Peru and the Amazon where malaria does exist , a doctor might prescribe antimalarials, but it isn’t necessary for travel in most of the country. Ditto Yellow Fever. Most doctors will also suggest routine vaccinations like Hep A/B, typhoid, and rabies before your trip, which are optional.

If you’re doing any trekking in Peru or you’re worried about your reaction to the altitude,  I strongly recommend getting a prescription for altitude sickness medication from your doctor . Far better to have it on hand and never use it than to be seriously ill without it!

Trekkers should get Acetazolamide (Diamox), Dexamethasone, and Nifedipine , while travellers not planning time in the mountains will be fine with just Acetazolamide. If you want to know more about these medication and current medical research on treating altitude sickness, check out this detailed post.

Altitude & acclimatisation

Minor symptoms related to the altitude (and, to a lesser extent, true altitude sickness ) is a very real possibility when travelling in mountainous parts of Peru, especially places like Cusco (3,400m) and Huaraz (3,050m) or hiking along the Inca Trail (4,215m), Salkantay Trek (4,650m), and Huayhuash Circuit (5,090m).

Basically, there’s less oxygen in the air at high altitudes, which can lead to a number of unpleasant symptoms like headaches, dizziness, fatigue, and shortness of breath. When you first arrive in Cusco (or your first high-altitude town of the trip), you’ll probably notice being a bit lightheaded, not having your usual appetite, and panting heaps when you walk up stairs —  basically, just feeling really  unfit . 

These are all totally normal physiological responses to arriving at altitude, and they typically pass within a few days. And thankfully, they don’t mean you have actual altitude sickness . According to recent research , only about 17% percentage of travellers to 3,400m (e.g.  Cusco, Peru ) will experience bad altitude sickness.

I wrote two extremely detailed posts about the different types of altitude sickness and how to prevent/treat it on your trip , so I’d recommend reading both of these for a lot more info:

• For general altitude info relevant to all travellers in Peru: A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN SOUTH AMERICA
• For altitude advice specific to hikers in Peru: HIGH-ALTITUDE TREKKING: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO PREVENTING & TREATING ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN THE MOUNTAINS

In brief, the altitude in some Peruvian cities just means you need to take it easy for the first few days or you can make yourself really ill —  don’t plan to fly straight from Lima to Cusco and set out on the Inca Trail immediately unless you want some serious issues. The two posts linked above will give you an even better idea of how to plan your trip to avoid altitude sickness , including some medication you should bring from home in case you do experience problems (Acetazolamide is a good option!).

Safety in Peru

It’s impossible to say that any destination is “completely safe”, but Peru would have to be fairly close—  I was totally comfortable travelling by myself throughout the country  and, taking basic safety precautions, never really felt like I was in a bad situation. As long as you can speak some Spanish, it’s incredibly easy to get around and the locals are amazingly friendly, always willing to help.

That being said, it’s still a foreign country, so don’t be an idiot . Every country and city in the world, whether it’s in Latin America or the USA, has sketchy places you should avoid and things you just shouldn’t do. And most of the cases of robbery I’ve heard about in Latin America were actually the result of someone being careless, like leaving their bag unattended or buying drugs on the street while drunk (what do you expect is going to happen?!). Here are some BASIC and very common sense tips for keeping safe in Peru:

• Buy a local SIM card and use Google Maps to avoid getting lost in a new city. Claro and Movistar are the main providers, but Bitel also offers good packages specifically for travellers: get 20GB of data, 500min calling, and international call credit for S/49.
• If you’re travelling alone or at night, call an Uber or have your hostel call you a taxi . During the day, it’s usually fine to grab one off the street.
• Ask at hostel reception if it’s safe to visit a certain area alone at night before you go out, and if not, make some friends to go with you or wait until a safer time. Downtown Lima is a good example of somewhere that can be fine in a group or in the morning, but just a tad uncomfortable after hours by yourself.
• Don’t carry large amounts of cash on your person and definitely don’t carry them in an obvious way. It’s fine to bring a purse or backpack around town if you keep a close watch on it (so don’t set it down), and you REALLY don’t need a ridiculous nude-coloured money belt.
• There was no where in Peru where I felt like I couldn’t have my camera out during the day (and I’ve got a pretty large DSLR), so as long as you don’t set your electronics down and walk away, and you should be fine.
• Bring a lock so you can secure your valuables in a locker at your hostel while you’re out during the day.
• Bus stations in Peru can be really chaotic, so it’s easy to get overwhelmed and lose track of your bags if you aren’t being careful. You need to be on alert when you are waiting for your bus and putting your bags onboard, just to make sure nothing gets left behind or swiped while you’re distracted. Keep your valuables with you on the bus, but your big bag that’s been checked is totally safe underneath (all bus companies issue bag tags, so no one but you can collect your luggage).
• Bus stations are also typically in a dodgier part of town , so I’d recommend taking a taxi rather than walking with all your stuff through the streets. I never had any issues doing this, but there were times I felt a bit on edge, especially in the evenings. Taxis are cheap and they will save you the worry.

Language barrier in Peru

As with most everywhere in South America, there is a very real language barrier in Peru and I really wouldn’t recommend travelling here without learning some basic Spanish phrases . Any tour guides will speak English, but most waiters, cashiers, hostel staff, taxi drivers, bus station employees, and just general people on the street won’t speak a word. Yes, seriously, sometimes hostel reception will not speak ANY English.

A lot of the people you will meet in Peru are already speaking Spanish as a second language—  the native indigenous language is Quechua ( KECH-uh-wuh ) and it’s still widely spoken in the Andean regions of the country . Essentially everyone is fluent in Spanish, so you won’t have difficulty communicating this way, but you’ll probably notice that some locals are speaking a language that you definitely don’t recognise.

Even just learning how to order food, buy bus tickets, ask for directions, and pay for things in Spanish will make your trip to Peru so much smoother (and actually more enjoyable). When in doubt: Google Translate, which can be downloaded for offline use).

Some useful phrases to master now:

• Habla Inglés? | Do you speak English?
• Lo siento | I’m sorry
• Disculpe | Excuse me
• De donde eres? | Where are you from?
• Me llamo [your name] | My name is ….
• Yo tengo venticinco años | I am 25 years old
• Estoy viajando por seis meses | I am travelling for 6 months 
• Yo necesito comprar un boleto a [your destination]  | I need to buy a bus ticket to [your destination]
• A qué hora es el próximo bus?  | What time is the next bus?
• Cuánto cuesta?  | How much does it cost?
• Donde esta el baño?  | Where is the bathroom?
• La cuenta, por favour | The check, please.

Communication & connectivity in Peru

Local sim cards.

I’d highly recommend getting a local SIM card when you arrive in Peru, as this will allow you to use Google Maps and Uber to get around (absolutely essential in bigger cities like Lima and Cusco).

Claro and Movistar are the main providers, but  Bitel also offers good packages specifically for travellers : get 20GB of data, 500min calling, and international call credit for S/49. 

Don’t purchase a SIM card at the airport unless you’re happy paying a huge mark-up. There are numerous cellular shops around the country, and if you’re starting your trip in Lima, all 3 main providers actually have stores within 50m of each other on Avenida Jose Larco in Miraflores. The staff will put the SIM card in your phone and help adjust all the necessary settings, just make sure to take your passport with you!

Wifi access

Most every hostel or Airbnb in Peru offers decent wifi, but outside of this, you can also find  free wifi at many cafes and restaurants, shopping centres (like Larcomar in Miraflores), public parks (like Kennedy Park in Lima), and even central squares (like the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa) around Peru. Free wifi options greatly diminish as you travel into smaller towns or higher into the Andes, but you probably won’t need wifi to get around in these places, so it’s actually nice to unplug for a few days!

You can also use an app like Wifi Map to find heaps of free public wifi hotspots or restaurants that offer wifi to customers in any city, including most of Peru.

Culture & customs in Peru

• Peruvians are incredibly friendly people who will almost always go out of their way to help/chat to you , and this is one of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive. Everyone wants to know how you are and offer suggestions, which is really lovely, but apparently not what everyone expects out of a trip to South America.
• As a woman travelling in Peru (alone or not), it’s incredibly common for men to stare at you or even make comments as you walk down the street ( tus ojos azules, muy guapa blah blah). Even though it can be slightly uncomfortable, it’s part of the culture here and isn’t intended to be offensive or inappropriate. I usually just smiled and kept walking, no one continued to bother me; when in doubt, a cheeky no hablo español is also an excellent way to prevent further conversation.
• La hora peruano : “This is the code, indecipherable to North Americans, by which Peruvians determine the latest possible moment that it is acceptable to arrive for an appointment” – Mark Adams. It’s true, Peruvians aren’t a terribly prompt people, so don’t be surprised when buses or tours depart late, because it will happen more often than not. Compared to other parts of South America, it’s actually not that bad in Peru, but Europeans seem to find it baffling that someone could arrange a time to meet and not be there early. That’s just not the way here.

Packing list for Peru

This is far from a comprehensive packing list (you can find more detailed ones in my specific Peru itineraries ), but here are just a few essential items you MUST have for Peru:

• Rain jacket
• Down jacket (oh yes, even in summer)
• Long pants/tights (even in summer)
• Comfortable daypack
• Hiking boots (for pretty much any trek in Peru longer than a couple hours, you’ll want these)
• Filtered water bottle (avoid buying plastic water bottles every day)
• Lock for hostel lockers
• US-style plug adapter

Read more about Peru

HIGH-ALTITUDE TREKKING: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO PREVENTING & TREATING ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN THE MOUNTAINS

A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN SOUTH AMERICA

TRAVELLING WITH PERU HOP VS PUBLIC BUSES: AN HONEST COMPARISON

brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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Ultimate PERU Travel Guide

Peru is a country located in South America.  Lima is the capital and it is a country known for its high mountains, exceptional Incan ruins, culture, colors and landscapes. This Peru travel guide is laid out to help you plan the ultimate trip to this country.

Peru is easily one of the most visited countries in  South America , with good reason as it is home to the wonder of the World, Machu Picchu. But there is so much more to the country than that one site.

There are deserts, there are rainforests, there are high altitude mountains and there are giant lakes. There’s an abundance of culture, history and wildlife to learn about too.

Anything less than a 2-week trip will leave you wanting more and I think you could easily max out your 6-month visa exploring Peru’s many wonders.

We’ve been to Peru three times over the years and will not hesitate when an opportunity to go again presents itself. We hope you find our advice both helpful and inspiring.

Destinations

Peru travel: quick tips, don’t visit peru without:.

UNIVERSAL TRAVEL ADAPTER

GET A GUIDEBOOK

REUSABLE WATER BOTTLE

START PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO PERU!

Where to stay in peru.

Below you will find some of the places we have stayed during our travels in Peru. These are individual properties that we enjoyed and would recommend to other travelers.

HOW TO GET AROUND IN PERU

Anyone looking to travel to Peru will likely fly into Lima and connect to the other airports across the country. From these major cities, it is possible to use public transportation to see the city or take buses further afield.

Many people choose to engage in group tours or day tours to get around and see things in Peru. It is also possible to rent a car and plan a road trip that takes you further afield and out of the city.

TOP PERU TOURS

Classic peru.

12 Days Lima to Cusco Visits: Lima, Cusco, Puno, Lake Titicaca & Machu Picchu

PERU PANORAMA

15 Days from Lima Visits: Lima, Cusco, Puno, Lake Titicaca, Inca Trail & Machu Picchu

ABSOLUTE PERU

21 Days from Lima Visits: Paracas, Nazca, Arequipa, Puno, Cusco, Inca Trail & Amazon

DECIDE WHICH MONTH YOU WANT TO VISIT!

Peru travel: booking resources, peru travel guide: related articles.

Looking for more info? Check out all the articles we’ve written on travel to Peru and start planning your dream trip.

Is Delfin the Best Luxury Amazon River Cruise in Peru?

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The Ultimate 2024 Peru Travel Guide

Peru is one of the most popular travel destinations in South America. It is celebrated for its diversity and is home to many traditional festivals and ancient rites. It has preserved its identity despite the influx of tourists and the growing development in its neighbouring countries. 

The country proudly showcases the good mix of the old and new. Just as you did. it has fascinated travellers from all over the world. It is also home to one of the most sought-after trails in the world – the Inca Trail. 

Table of Contents

Things to Remember

When you travel to Peru, you might want to leave your plastic behind. While there are some hotels and establishments that accept credit cards, the majority of Peru is a cash-based economy. Most of those that require cash payment is the local food stalls.

If you want to have that authentic Peruvian experience, it is also recommended that you learn some Spanish. Staying in major cities like Lima should not give trouble in finding English-speaking locals. 

However, when you explore the remote areas of Peru, this isn’t the case. When you travel to cities or destinations outside of the main cities, take the bus. This is a surprisingly good option for public transportation. The tips below will help you plan and write a 2-week travel itinerary for Peru.

Best Time To Go

Before visiting Peru, you have to know your seasons. The climate in Peru is quite different as the dry season runs from April to October. The rainy season would be the rest of the year. When you visit the dry season, you can expect hot and dry weather. 

The good news is that the rainy season does not mean it would rain all day. But, when it does expect strong rain showers. The dry season might offer favourable weather but it is also the peak of travel to Peru so you can expect more crowd. If you plan to visit Machu Picchu, remember that it’s closed for maintenance for the entire month of February.

• When is the summer: May to October
• When is the typhoon season/winter season: December and January

Passport holders from up to 97 countries can travel to Peru without applying for a travel visa beforehand. You can stay for up to 183 days at a time. Make sure to check with your local embassy depending on your country of origin.

For Schengen passport holders, you can visit Peru for 90 days without a visa. Citizens of Panama and Costa Rica are allowed 90 days per visit. You might be asked to show an exit flight, but that’s not a regular protocol.

Average Cost Per Day (per person)

Peru is undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries to travel to . But it will never be easy to determine the budget needed for travelling in Peru. These vary significantly based on where you want to go and your travel style. For backpackers, it is possible to travel to Peru for $40-$50 per day. 

• On the budget: $40-$50
• On the mid-range: $100-$150
• On luxury: $200-$300

What To Pack

Deciding on what to pack for Peru will depend on the activities you plan to do and what time of year you visit. Make sure to research beforehand the climate of your intended destination and the season. There are different altitudes based on the geographic regions of Peru that you visit. 

If you visit the jungle area, it can be hot and humid. If you scale the Andes, it can be chilly. Make sure you pack enough items for layering to add flexibility to your clothing options. If you plan to hike the Inca Trail, you don’t need to bring camping items, the tour company will arrange that for you. 

Packing for 2 weeks can be tricky. But remember, if you are heading to an affordable destination, it’s probably best to buy some of the items when you arrive. This includes toiletries which are often heavy and takes a lot of space.

Where To Go

You will be spoiled for options when it comes to choosing where to go to Peru. The country offers a wide range of options, no matter what kind of adventure you want to embark on. Depending on where you want to go, you can spend a week in Peru to simply see one destination. However, 2 weeks in Peru will be more suitable and give you plenty of time to explore the citadel of Machu Picchu plus an urban city like Lima.

Below is a list of destinations that you can choose from, plus some recommendations on what to see and do.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is one of the top tourist destinations in the world. This Incan citadel was built in the Andes Mountains of Peru, atop the Urubamba River Valley. It was built during the 15th century, a place where the Inca Empire could retreat during the long-colonialism of the Andes. At the same time, it was plain to be a luxury complex for the Royal Family of Inca Imperial.

Today, this destination is frequented by tourists who want to see first-hand these dry-stone walls. These were built without using any mortar. The Inca structure is also noted for its panoramic views and astronomical significance. 

• Cost:  US$45/ticket, or more if you plan to do a multi-day hike
• Location: It is located in the Andes Mountains above the Urubamba River valley. 
• How to get there: To get to Machu Picchu, you must take a train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes. This scenic trip will take about 3.5 hours. You can also take a 2-4 day hike.
• What to see: Huayna Picchu, Inti Punku, Wiñay Wayna, Temple of the Moon
• How many days to stay: 2 days minimum

As the capital city of Peru, Lima lies on the Pacific coast region of Peru, known for its arid conditions. Lima is known for its beautifully preserved colonial centre, along with its bustling metropolis. For those who love kit surfing, Lima is an amazing location for that water activity.

As one of the largest cities in South America, there are plenty of things to see and do. This is also a great jump-off point for exploring other parts of Peru. You also shouldn’t have a problem getting around Lima as many locals can communicate in English very well.

• Location: Lima is located in the valleys of three major river systems: Chillon, Rimac, and Lurin. 
• How to get there: You will most likely start your trip in Lima, your flight will land at Jorge Chavez International Airport. 
• What to see: Museo de la Nación, old Lima Centro, Plaza de Armas, Miraflores Beach, La Punta
• How many days to stay: 3-4 Days, there are many day trips you can take from Lima such as visiting glacier lakes in Huaraz

One of the things that makes Cusco a desirable destination is its location. It is close to the Sacred Valley of Peru, which is why a lot of visitors spend their time here. You will have to get to Cusco to reach Machu Picchu.

The city also serves as the capital for the Peruvian Andes and was the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. It is, therefore, not a surprise to find plenty of archaeological remains and colonial architecture within the city. 

• Location: It is located in southeastern Peru near the Andes’ Urubamba Valley.
• How to get there: You must take a flight to the city of Lima via international Airport Teniente FAP Alejandro Velasco Astete. From Lima, you can take a bus or taxi to Cusco. 
• What to see: Sacred Valley, Tambomachay, Saqsaywaman, Qorikancha, San Pedro Market, Rainbow Mountain
• How many days to stay: 3 Days

Lake Titicaca

Located along the border of two countries in South America, Lake Titicaca lies between Peru and Bolivia. It is positioned at the foot of the Andes Mountains. It is among the largest lakes in South America.

This remains the highest body of water that can be navigated (3,800 meters or 12,500 feet in elevation). Many consider this lake to be the birthplace of the Inca civilization. So, don’t be surprised by the sheer volume of Inca ruins in the area near the lake. 

• Location: It is located along the border of Peru and Bolivia. 
• How to get there: You can take the bus or train to Puno. This is the largest settlement near Lake Titicaca.
• What to see: Isla de la Luna, Suasi Island, Islas Uros, Sillustani
• How many days to stay: 1-2 Days

As the capital of the country during the colonial era, the Arequipa region of Peru is surrounded by three volcanoes. It is home to many Baroque buildings that are constructed using white volcanic stone. The historic centre of Arequipa is anchored by the Plaza de Armas, which is the main square in the region. 

• Location: It is located southwest of the Andes Mountains. 
• How to get there: Numerous bus routes travel daily from Cusco to Arequipa. 
• What to see: Plaza de Armas, Santa Catalina Monastery, Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa, Playa Catarindo, Misti Volcano
• How many days to stay: 2 Days

Colca Canyon

Located in southern Peru, Colca Canyon is one of the most sought-after destinations in Peru. It is known as the deepest canyon in the world. Nowadays, it emerged as the favourite among avid trekkers for its spectacular landscape. 

The region is also home to the giant Andean condor. Specifically, it is known for its terraced agriculture that was there before the Incas. Rafting is another popular activity in this canyon. 

• Location: It is located at the foot of the Andes Mountains. 
• How to get there: You can take a bus to Colca Canyon from the city of Arequipa. The travel time is about 4 hours. 
• How many days to stay: 1 Day

What To Eat

Peruvian cuisine is as diverse as its culture and history. Each region is distinctive from one another so you can try many different dishes in each region you visit. Food is affordable in Peru, especially if you choose to eat from authentic food stalls. 

The cuisine of Peru is closely tied to its history and culture. Thus, dining is a great way to immerse in the local experience. Here are some of the best Peruvian dishes to taste. Eat your way through Peru, or feast your senses with its vibrant culture and architecture.

Visiting each region in Peru is like a history lesson – you will uncover so much about its past and how the country has transformed over the years. It is no surprise why Peru is a popular travel destination. 

Among the most popular dishes in Peru, Peruvian food would be associated with ceviche. This dish is made with raw fish that is marinated with lime juice. It has been cultured by many culinary experts from each restaurant. 

The proximity to the ocean has led many to suggest that Lima has some of the best ceviches in Peru. It actually ensures the freshness of the fish. In some parts of Peru that are not close to the ocean, they use river trout instead.

• Where to try: Mercado de Surquillo, Chez Wong, Canta Rana
• Cost: $3-16 USD

Lomo Saltado

Another popular dish that is a must-try in Peru is Lomo Saltado. It is one of the best comfort food. It is made with a hearty serving of beef, along with other ingredients such as tomato, onions, and soy sauce. This dish is often served with French fries and rice.

• Where to try: Mamashana Cafe Restaurante, Bisanti
• Cost: $2-11

As one of the must-try dishes that you have to try when in Peru, Causa can be served as an appetizer or as a light meal. It is often served cold. The dish is made from yellow potatoes with avocado, fish (or chicken), egg, olives, and celery. The different layers of ingredients make it look like a potato cake. 

• Where to try: Mi Causa in Lima
• Cost: $8-20

Rocoto Relleno

As a dish that originated in the Arequipa region of Peru, Rocoto Relleno is popular in every part of Peru. This dish is a red bell pepper that is boiled to tone down its heat. The local pepper variety is known to be 10 times hotter than jalapeño peppers. 

Once boiled, the pepper is stuffed with ground beef that had been spiced and sautéed. It is spiced along with a hard-boiled egg. The dish is topped with melted cheese on top. It can be served halved or whole. 

• Where to try: Picanteria La Capitana, Ary Quepay, Restaurante Zingaro
• Cost: $5-15

Final Thoughts

Peru is an interesting place to visit. It is rich in culture, history, scenic locations, and tasty dishes. Not to mention how friendly and welcoming the locals are. Peru is also an affordable destination to spend your holiday and a perfect place to visit regardless if you are travelling alone, with your partner, or with young children.

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The Best Books to Read Before You Go to Peru

You will need to make some preparations for Peru before you leave, and one of the best ways to start getting ready for the cultural, linguistic, climatic, artistic and religious differences of the place is to read about them. This way you will be much better informed when you finally see the animals, cities and sights and understand them so much better.

There are numerous travel guides, language books and interesting stories to read about this South American nation. Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, Footprint, Fodors, Insight Guides, National Geographic Traveler and Frommers are just some of the publishers who produce travel guides to Peru. It’s probably worth picking up their language guides as well, as any Spanish words you know will help you get more comfortably through this Spanish-speaking nation.

If you want a history lesson you might want to pick up some books on the Incan civilization. Look out for The Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming highlighting Pizarro’s conquest of Peru and the search for El Dorado in the 1530’s. There’s plenty of information here on cities and sites you will probably visit.

The Incas and Their Ancestors: The Archaeology of Peru by Ruth M. Wright et al is a comprehensive guidebook to Machu Picchu with fold-out archaeological maps, photographs and plenty of information so you will be able to navigate the place easily. The Inca Empire and Its Andean Origins by Craig Morris and Adriana Von Hagen is a photographic coffee table book that you can revel in before or after the trip, it is probably too big to take with you. Another historical text is The Peru Reader: History, Culture, Politics by Orin Starn. It gives a good introduction to the country’s political and social development.

If you’re planning on visiting wildlife areas or any of the tropical forests where you might glimpse something exotic, then Peru - The Traveller’s Wildlife Guides by David L. Pearson is a good choice. It will help you identify various animal and plant life.

Because eating is just as much a part of the travel experience as anything else, you should acquaint yourself with the eating experiences of Peru before you go also. Eat Smart in Peru: How to Decipher the Menu, Know the Market Foods & Embark on a Tasting Adventure by Joan Peterson has photographs and illustrations that will probably have you salivating before you go. Another cultural guide is Peru - Culture Smart!: a quick guide to customs and etiquette by John Forrest and Julia Porturas. This book provides essential information on beliefs, behavior and attitudes in Peru to give you a bit of insight into what to do and what to expect in certain situations. It might just help you steer clear of some faux pas!

Those seeking something a little more adventurous might like to get their hands on two of the books written about the crash of Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571 in the Andes mountains in 1972. Many probably recall the film made starring Ethan Hawke that re-enacted the disaster so vividly. The plane initially carried 45 rugby team players and associates but only 18 eventually made it out from the mountains after the horror crash, harsh environment, cold, starvation and avalanches claimed the lives of the others.

Miracle in the Andes: 72 Days on the Mountain and My Long Trek Home by Nando Parrado was written by one of the survivors 34 years after they were rescued. Parrado was one of the two people who finally walked out of the mountains to get help. The other book about the event is Alive: The Story of the Andes Survivors by Piers Paul Read and published two years after their rescue. Read interviewed the survivors and their families about the crash.

Another tragic tale about survival in the Andes is Touching the Void by Joe Simpson. The book relates Simpson and Simon Yates’s near fatal climb of Siula Grande in 1985. Simpson fell on the descent and broke his leg, so Yates helped him off the peak by belaying him on a rope down the mountain. Disaster struck when he was lowered off a cliff and Yates had to cut the rope between them or they would both perish. Simpson survived the subsequent 100ft fall and managed to crawl back down the mountain over several days to rescue.

If you wish to receive a more personal insight into the flavors of Peruvian life you might like to get hold of some of the books and essays by Mario Vargas Llosa. Other well known writers include Alfredo Bryce Echenique, Ciro Alegria, Cesar Vallejo and Jaime Bayly. Another famous Latin American to write about Peru was Ernesto Che Guevara who spent several weeks at the San Pablo leprosarium and also visited Lima. You can read about his travels in The Motorcycle Diaries .

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A guide to LGBTQ+ travel in Latin America

With museums, culture, nightlife, family outings and safe spaces to  relax in, Latin America has much to offer LGBTQ+ travellers. 

Latin America is a vast region of over 656 million inhabitants. Stretching across two continents, it’s a storied location where people and cultures from Europe, Africa, the Americas and elsewhere mixed and settled. Spanish and Portuguese, vestiges of two rival superpowers, are the dominant languages. The ancient empires, Aztec, Incan, Mayan and others, still make their presence known — from the archaeological highlights of museums to the living spectacles of carnivals, parades and religious celebrations, like the macabre Day of the Dead and the continued worship of goddesses like Yemanjá brought from the West African coast.

The region’s powerhouse cities are where LGBTQ+ nightlife, culture and political progress are most visible, from the Beaux-Arts streets of Buenos Aires to the sun-kissed Rio de Janeiro, with its spectacular natural setting of mountains and beaches. Indeed, it’s these sandy stretches many tourists come to Latin America for, whether they’re seeking the golden shores of the Caribbean coast or the dramatic, mountainous landscapes that butt against the Pacific, creating conditions that every surfer dreams of.

One of the most thrilling of all Latin American destinations, glamorous Buenos Aires should be the starting point of every Argentine adventure. It’s also one of the world’s leading countries on LGBTQ+ human rights issues — it passed a national same-sex marriage equality law in 2010, five years before the US and three before the UK. Peppered with French Beaux-Arts architecture, Buenos Aires is crisscrossed by grand boulevards and marble-embellished monuments. Visitors will find hundreds of bookshops to explore, the most famous of which, El Ateneo Grand Splendid, is housed in a former theatre. There are cafes, museums and a glittering opera house. To walk along any street, especially the Nueve de Julio, is a dizzying experience.

Where to go at night in Argentina? Buenos Aires is home to some of the best LGBTQ+ nightlife on the continent, and it’s not for the faint hearted. Things don’t get going until past midnight, with locals out long after sunrise. Club Amerika in the Almagro neighbourhood is the city’s largest nightclub and a centre point of LGBTQ+ nightlife. El Lugar Gay is a small, men-only budget hotel located in the historic San Telmo neighbourhood, an area known for its Sunday antiques fair and tango performances.

Where to see Argentinian culture? Though a controversial figure in Argentina, former First Lady Eva Perón, better known as Evita, remains one of the country’s most well-known figures — a Dior-clad gay icon to many LGBTQ+ locals, with stars like Madonna, Patti LuPone and Elaine Paige having portrayed her. Her myth, mystery, legend and wardrobe are explored at Museo Evita in the elegant Palermo neighbourhood.

Where to go with family in Argentina? This nightlife-oriented city has plenty for queer family gaycations, from watching the famous ‘cat ladies’ take care of felines in Recoleta Cemetery to the Abasto neighbourhood’s Museo de los Niños , with educational science activities for children. Argentina’s Patagonian region makes an excellent option for skiing or hiking trips in Bariloche. Those of drinking age will enjoy Mendoza, an important wine region, where the Malbec grape reigns supreme.

Few places in Latin America rival the powerhouse experience that is Brazil. One of the largest countries in the world, this South American nation pulsates with a landscape as diverse as its people, with thousands of miles of beachfront, metropolitan cities, mountains and the Amazon rainforest, to name just a few points of interest. With so much to see and do, it’s hard to choose what to start with first in Brazil, and many LGBTQ+ travellers make repeat visits.

Where to go at night in Brazil? Rio is an effervescent metropolis and former capital where neighbourhoods jostle between mountains and beaches, the giant art deco statue of Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado mountain rising above it all. The highlight of the year is Carnival — the largest such celebration in the world — in February or March, depending on the Easter calendar. It’s all about the beaches here and two are main centres of LGBTQ+ life — Ipanema, especially its Rua Farme de Amoedo gay beach, and the densely urban Copacabana beach, where locals and visitors alike pose for sunset photos with the curvaceous Sugarloaf Mountain in the background. A Brazilian cultural highlight is in Rio’s Flamengo Park, which is home to the Carmen Miranda Museum , celebrating the actress whose oversized fruit-covered headdresses inspired many a drag queen.  

Where to explore in Brazil? Visitors will find urban charm in São Paulo, with its contrasting wealthy and impoverished neighbourhoods operating within walking distance of each other. Every May, it hosts a massive gay pride parade with millions of spectators lining Avenida Paulista. Salvador, in the northeastern state of Bahia, is a hotspot for Afro-Brazilian culture. Statues of Yemanjá, mother of orishas (divine spirits) in the Yoruba religion, are everywhere — a nod to the area’s past. A visit to Pelourinho is a highlight for many, its cobblestone streets lined with colourful buildings stretching to stunning vistas.

Where to go with family in Brazil? For LGBTQ+ family travellers with kids, no trip to Brazil is complete without visiting Iguazú Falls, a series of waterfalls in the country’s south where it edges against Argentina and Paraguay. Several times larger than their North American counterpart, legend says Eleanor Roosevelt exclaimed, “Poor Niagara!” upon seeing them.

Visitors to Mexico should start in its glorious capital, filled wih museums and cultural venues like Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its Beaux Arts facade and art deco interior, or the fascinating National Anthropology Museum. Once the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, the city is centred around the massive Zócalo, a square where Spanish buildings were constructed over ancient temples and pyramids.

Where to see the best of Mexican nightlife? Only in Zona Rosa — literally the Pink Zone — can travellers find such a dense concentration of LGBTQ+ nightlife. Near the Angel of Independence monument along Avenida de la Reforma, bars, nightclubs, restaurants and other venues popular with LGBTQ+ tourists and locals abound, along with some of the city’s best hotels.

Where to see Mexican culture? The Frida Kahlo Museum is located in the bohemian Colonia del Carmen neighbourhood. Known as the Casa Azul, this tribute to the bisexual artist has been open to the public since the late 1950s.

Where to explore nature in Mexico? Mexico’s coastlines offer a wide array of beaches to explore. Cancun and the Riviera Maya on the Yucatán peninsula are among its jewels and the source of much of the country’s income from tourism. Storied Puerto Vallarta, one of Latin America’s most popular LGBTQ+ beach destinations, overlooks the Pacific.

Peru is geographically diverse, with beaches, mountains and the western stretches of the Amazon jungle, making it a must-visit spot for nature-seeking travellers.

Where to see the best of Peruvian nightlife? Peru’s capital, Lima, is a gastronomic paradise, with native cuisine like ceviche, a raw fish and citrus dish, and drinks such as the pisco sour a popular choice. The country’s large and influential Japanese population has also impacted the culture and the cuisine. The main LGBTQ+ area is garden-like district Miraflores, the name of which means ‘look at the flowers’. Sadly, two prominent gay nightlife spots, Lola Bar and Discoteca Legendaris, have recently closed; luckily, a number of new joints are in the works. However, ValeTodo DownTown , a bar central to the strong gay residential presence here, remains open and thriving.

Where to go on an outdoor adventure in Peru? One of the reasons many visitors come to Peru is to trace the country’s ancient Incan roots. Two of the world’s most coveted bucket-list destinations are in Peru: the ancient Andean temple complex Machu Picchu with its stunning views, and Cusco, which was a capital of the Incan Empire. Visitors will come across colonial buildings representing the Spanish conquest built on top of ancient temples, the periods of architecture instantly recognisable via differing stonework. A rickety train traverses a stunning mountain pass to connect Cusco and Machu Pichu, allowing for day trips. More adventurous travellers can hike the various Inca Trails over several days, finding lesser-known historic ruins along the way.

While certain parts of Latin America might be known for a degree of brashness, travellers will   find a more reserved destination when they visit Chile. Santiago, the capital, stretches along the city’s main thoroughfare, Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins, and sits either side of the Mapocho River.

What to do at nighttime in Chile? The gay heart of Santiago is in the quaint district Barrio Bellavista, much of which dates to the 1920s. Chile is a former Spanish colony, and these influences can be seen in much of the area’s architecture, from the terracotta shingles to the white stucco walls. At night, the district comes alive with music and partying, as locals and visitors head to clubs, restaurants and bars, many with live music. The neighbourhood is dominated by San Cristóbal Hill and its statue of the Virgin Mary, a symbol of the city, connected by a not-always-functioning funicular.

Where to see Chilean culture? Argentina’s Mendoza on the other side of the Andes might be South America’s better known wine region, but Chile has one of the continent’s largest. What makes it even more ideal for visitors to the capital is that there’s no need to fly to a second destination. The wine region surrounds Santiago, most of it within an hour-and-a half drive by car or organised tour to Casablanca Valley, the Maipo region or the Central Valley, where wineries like Concha y Toro create magical elixirs from Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon and other grapes.

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Read Your Way Through Accra

Bus stations. Traffic stops. Beaches. There’s no telling where you’ll find the next story in Accra, Ghana’s capital. Peace Adzo Medie shares some of her favorites.

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By Peace Adzo Medie

Read Your Way Around the World is a series exploring the globe through books.

Accra is rich with stories, some of them only a few words long — Still Hustling; Work Hard and Dream Big; Short Ways Are Dangerous — and written in bold letters on the rear windows of tro tros, the ubiquitous minibuses that ferry residents and visitors around the city. These mantras are meant to represent the people who own the buses. But they also tell of life in Accra, and what it takes to make it in this vibrant city.

Accra, Ghana’s capital, is in the southern part of the country and borders the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, its coastline has served as an entry point for people both from neighboring countries and from farther away. Ghanaian writers have found rich material in the city, the home of the Ga people. And writers from other African countries and the diaspora, such as Wole Soyinka and Maya Angelou, have called Accra home, even if only for a short time.

Though much of Accra’s creative activity has taken place in centers like the Institute of African Studies at the University of Ghana, interest in stories and books permeates the city.

Merchants selling books line many thoroughfares. There is a good chance that, when you stop at a major traffic light, a bookseller, wares in hand, will come to your window and try to get you to buy at least one. Even bus stations can be a treasure trove. One of my favorite activities as a teenager was shopping for books at Kwame Nkrumah Circle, a busy bus station in the heart of the city, where volumes are neatly arranged in stalls or on canvas spread out on the ground. And when I didn’t have enough money for a book, Accra still came through for me: I could always read and imagine the stories behind the one-liners on the buses idling nearby.

What should I read before I pack my bags?

Nii Ayikwei Parkes’s “ Tail of the Blue Bird ” brings the city to life. This slim novel is set in Accra and Sonokrom, a small village. Kayo, a forensic pathologist working in Accra, has been forced by a high-ranking police officer to investigate a sinister discovery in the village.

The novel’s lyrical prose and rich dialogue, which incorporates Ghanaian words and phrases, make it delightful to read. Through Kayo’s work, outings with friends and encounters with the police, we see different aspects of life in Accra, while his time in Sonokrom and interactions with the village’s intriguing inhabitants offer a glimpse of how people outside the center relate to the city.

If you prefer nonfiction, Ato Quayson’s “ Oxford Street, Accra: City Life and the Itineraries of Transnationalism ” offers an excellent introduction to the city. It takes the reader on a journey through Accra’s history, showing its evolution from a fishing village to a port town during British colonial rule, to a vibrant metropolis that draws in people from around the country and the world. With Oxford Street, a bustling commercial corridor, as a starting point, Quayson evokes the sights and sounds of the city with keen attention to how people interact with each other and their surroundings. Forays into the salsa and gym scenes underline the transnational dimensions of life in Accra.

What books or authors should I bring along with me?

Accra is at the heart of Yepoka Yeebo’s “ Anansi’s Gold: The Man Who Looted the West, Outfoxed Washington, and Swindled the World .” This work of nonfiction is a wild ride about one of the boldest scams of the 1970s and ‘80s, carried out by John Ackah Blay-Miezah, a charismatic Ghanaian. Blay-Miezah promised huge returns to thousands of investors from around the world, tied to a bogus trust fund allegedly set up by Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president. While Blay-Miezah targeted victims across the world, his dealings with government officials and other businesspeople in Accra facilitated his scam and, ultimately, contributed to its end. The book is a meticulously researched and riveting account of politics and money in post-independence Ghana.

Fictional stories of murder can also be doorways into Accra. In “ Sleep Well My Lady ,” by Kwei Quartey, a female detective’s investigation of a murder offers a glimpse into the lives of the rich and the not-so-rich of the city. In Kobby Ben Ben’s “ No One Dies Yet ,” Accra is the scene of mystery and sex, in a meeting of Ghana and its diaspora.

What books can show me other facets of the city?

There is always something to discover in Accra, even for people who are already familiar with the city. It helps to know the right people, though — or at least the right books.

“ Accra Noir ,” edited by Nana-Ama Danquah, is a collection of 13 stories set throughout pockets of the city. Their characters encounter the kind of sky-high hurdles that a thriving, cutthroat metropolis puts in the way of its residents — unemployment, corruption, abuse of power. And, determined to make it, these characters do not hesitate to adopt creative and extreme methods, often in places that are hidden from view: hotel rooms and bedrooms, dark alleys and a market at night.

Serena Owusua Dankwa’s “ Knowing Women: Same Sex-Intimacy, Gender, and Identity in Postcolonial Ghana ” is also about finding joy when the conditions are unyielding. It is a study of same-sex desire among women and of their relationships, which happen in every part of Ghana, yet aren’t typically visible in the open. The historical discussion of same-sex desire and intimacy in Ghana, and Africa more broadly, is illuminating, and dislodges widely held reductive ideas about the subject. Dankwa’s interviews with women, including female athletes, both in Accra and in a midsize town, reveal a great deal about desire and intimacy and the influences of class and social norms.

If I have no time for day trips, what books should I read instead?

Books of poetry are one way to travel around Ghana. Kofi Anyidoho’s collection “The Place We Call Home” is rhythmic in its treatment of history and the present. Anyidoho is also the editor of a book of poetry by another Ghanaian great, Kofi Awoonor. “The Promise of Hope: New and Selected Poems, 1964-2013” beautifully renders life in Ghana and abroad.

“The Girl Who Can,” by Ama Ata Aidoo, a writer with a towering legacy , is a collection of stories that explores girlhood and womanhood. Aidoo’s novel “Changes: A Love Story” chronicles one woman’s attempts to live and love on her own terms.

For books that take you on journeys into the past, start with Ayi Kwei Armah’s “The Beautyful Ones Are Not Yet Born.” This classic of Ghanaian literature unfolds during the 1960s and follows an unnamed railway clerk determined to stay on the straight and narrow path — unlike others around him. “ The Hundred Wells of Salaga, ” by Ayesha Harruna Attah, is set in the 19th century. In this novel, the trade in enslaved people plays a major role in changing the lives of two young women. Yaa Gyasi’s “ Homegoing ” goes further back, to the 18th century, to narrate the outcomes of one family’s encounters with the West.

What’s a good place to curl up with a book on a day off?

Accra is a city of beaches and, in addition to sunshine and a cool breeze, a few of its waterfronts have the ambience that make for a good reading experience. But I’m partial to green spaces, many of which are beyond the city limits. Aburi, in the Eastern Region, is a short drive outside Accra. Situated on a hill, the town is cool and has several spots where you can curl up with a book while enjoying the lush scenery.

Peace Adzo Medie’s Accra Reading List

“Tail of the Blue Bird,” Nii Ayikwei Parkes

“Oxford Street, Accra: City Life and the Itineraries of Transnationalism,” Ato Quayson

“Anansi’s Gold: The Man Who Looted the West, Outfoxed Washington, and Swindled the World,” Yepoka Yeebo

“Sleep Well My Lady,” Kwei Quartey

“No One Dies Yet,” Kobby Ben Ben

“Accra Noir,” edited by Nana-Ama Danquah

“Knowing Women: Same Sex-Intimacy, Gender, and Identity in Postcolonial Ghana,” Serena Owusua Dankwa

“The Place We Call Home,” Kofi Anyidoho

“The Promise of Hope: New and Selected Poems, 1964-2013,” Kofi Awoonor (edited by Kofi Anyidoho)

“The Girl Who Can” and “Changes: A Love Story,” Ama Ata Aidoo

“The Beautyful Ones Are Not Yet Born,” Ayi Kwei Armah

“The Hundred Wells of Salaga,” Ayesha Harruna Attah

“ Homegoing ,” Yaa Gyasi

Peace Adzo Medie is author of the novels “ Nightbloom ” and “ His Only Wife ,” which was a Reese’s Book Club pick and one of The Times’s notable books of 2020 . She is a professor at the University of Bristol.

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