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Must-see attractions in Vilnius

Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania

If you only see one museum in Vilnius, make it this one. On a site that has been settled since the 4th century AD stands the latest in a procession of…

Vilnius Cathedral

Stately Vilnius Cathedral, divorced from its freestanding belfry, is a national symbol and the city's most instantly recognisable building. Known in full…

Vilnius University

Founded in 1579 during the Catholic Counter Reformation, Vilnius University was run by Jesuits for two centuries. During the 19th century it became one of…

Museum of Genocide Victims

This former headquarters of the KGB (and before them the Gestapo, Polish occupiers and Tsarist judiciary) houses a museum dedicated to thousands of…

Cathedral Bell Tower

Climb the creaky stairs into the free-standing belfry of Vilnius Cathedral, once part of the city's 13th-century defences. Towering 57m high, it's one of…

Cathedral Square

Katedros aikštė buzzes with local life. In the 19th century markets and fairs were held here and a moat ran around what is now the square’s perimeter so…

Tolerance Centre

One of the main branches of the Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the Tolerance Centre is simultaneously a museum of Jewish history and culture, and a…

Sts Johns' Church

The full name is 'Church of St Johns, St John the Baptist and St John the Apostle and Evangelist', but 'Sts Johns' (plural) will do nicely. Founded in…

Užupis Art Incubator

One of two branches of the creative powerhouse of the Užupis Republic, the Galera shows exciting temporary exhibitions by local talent and invites artists…

Opened in October 2018, this assemblage of contemporary Lithuanian art and photography is the country's first private museum. An orderly union of sharp…

This landmark statue depicts the early unifier of the Lithuanian tribes in the mid-13th century and the country's first king.

Antakalnis Cemetery

In this leafy suburb, little-visited by tourists, Antakalnis Cemetery is the final resting place of Lithuanian luminaries and locals lost to war…

Gediminas Castle & Museum

With its hilltop location above the junction of the Neris and Vilnia Rivers, Gediminas Castle is the last of a series of settlements and fortified…

Gates of Dawn

The southern border of Old Town is marked by the last standing of five 16th-century portals that were once built into the city walls. A suitably grand way…

St Casimir's Church

This striking church is the city’s oldest baroque place of worship. St Casimir’s dome and cross-shaped ground plan defined a new style for 17th-century…

St Anne's Church

Flamboyant and Gothic St Anne's Church, a vision of undulating lines and red-brick arches, was built in 1500 on the site of a wooden church that burned to…

Holocaust Exhibition

The 'Green House' exhibits the unvarnished truth behind the destruction of Lithuania's once-vibrant Jewish community, the Litvaks. The displays – mostly…

West of Jasinskio gatvė across the Neris River is this kenessa, a traditional Karaite (sect of Turkic Jews) prayer house, built in 1911. It's one of three…

National Museum of Lithuania

This wide-ranging museum (inside the New Arsenal) exhibits art and artefacts from Lithuanian life from Neolithic times to the present day. Early history…

Presidential Palace

The Bishops of Vilnius’ Palace in the 16th century, this classical edifice now houses the president and chancellery. It gained its current Russian empire…

St Michael the Archangel Church

This grand early-17th-century chuch, built by the Sapiega family, now houses a wonderful museum of sacral art. The building itself, with its single Gothic…

Three Crosses

Crosses were first erected in the 17th century, in memory of a group of monks martyred by pagans three centuries earlier. The current crosses replace…

Užupis Republic Constitution

The 'Republic' of Užupis's Constitution is engraved in English, French, Lithuanian and several other languages on plaques running along Paupio gatvė. It…

Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit

The peachy facade gives an understated first impression but there's an electric atmosphere inside Lithuania’s chief Russian Orthodox church. The 16th…

Bernadine Church & Monastery

The massive buttresses and towering walls of this, one of the most impressive churches in Vilnius, are capable of providing defence as well as worship…

It’s hard to miss the 326m TV tower on the city’s western horizon. This tall needle symbolises Lithuania’s strength of spirit: on 13 January 1991 the…

Make Everything Great Again Mural

In 2016 the mural by artist Mindaugas Bonanu, depicting Trump and Putin kissing and the slogan 'Make Everything Great Again', went viral. It was a…

Museum of Applied Art

The Old Arsenal, built in the 16th century and restored in the 1980s, houses temporary exhibitions and a permanent collection showcasing 15th- to 19th…

Choral Synagogue

Vilnius' flourishing Jewish communities and 100 synagogues gave the city the nickname 'Jerusalem of the north' until WWII. The Choral Synagogue, built in…

Chapel of the Gates of Dawn

Above the Gates of Dawn you'll find this 18th-century chapel, aka the Gates of Dawn Chapel of Mary the Mother of Mercy. Inside is a venerated painting of…

Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum

Artefacts of Lithuanian song, stage and screen are the stars of this museum. Three centuries of notable instruments – including the pūslinė (a primitive…

Samuel Bak Museum

This art gallery, a branch of the Jewish State Museum, showcases the bold, vivid, somewhat surrealist paintings of renowned artist Samuel Bak, whose works…

House of Signatories

Lithuania's Declaration of Independence was signed here on 16 February 1918. Today, across 14 rooms of this 18th-century house, you'll find a reverent…

Amber Museum-Gallery

Dedicated to Baltic gold and the beautiful things it can be crafted into, this enthusiastic little museum occupies a 17th-century baroque house. Upstairs…

Frank Zappa Memorial

West of Vilniaus gatvė, rock 'n’ roll legend Frank Zappa is immortalised in a bronze bust atop a 4.2m-high stainless-steel pole. It was the world’s first…

St Nicholas Church

Lithuania’s oldest church, this red-brick Gothic pile was built by German Christians around 1320, when the country was still pagan. From 1901 to 1939 it…

Kazys Varnelis Museum

During his 50 years in the US, Kazys Varnelis earned fame and fortune with his optical and three-dimensional paintings. This museum shows his personal…

St Peter & Paul Church

Don’t be fooled by the uninspiring exterior of this church. Its baroque interior – a riot of over 2000 stuccoes created by Italian sculptors between 1675…

Gediminas Hill

Vilnius was founded on 48m-high Gediminas Hill, topped since the 13th century by a red-brick tower. To reach the top of the hill, clamber up the rocky…

Contemporary Art Centre

With 2400 sq metres of space for photography, video, installations and other exhibits, plus a program of lectures, live music and film screenings, this is…

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VILNIUS is a cosmopolitan and thoroughly modern city that is relatively compact and easy to get to know, with a variety of inexpensive attractions and a lively nightlife. Its numerous Baroque churches jostle for space amid glitzy restaurants and dilapidated old buildings that line its cobbled streets, while the student population lends the place a tangible air of energy and optimism. Beguiling, and sometimes downright odd, Vilnius has an addictive quality.

Cathedral Square

Drinking and nightlife, frank zappa statue, gediminas castle and museum, gedimino prospektas and the genocide museum, jewish museum, jewish vilnius, the lithuanian national museum, the national art gallery, the old town, st anne’s church and užupis, town hall square and around.

At the centre of Vilnius, poised between the medieval and nineteenth-century parts of the city, is Cathedral Square (Katedros aikštė). To the south of here along Pilies gatvė and Didžioji gatvė is the Old Town , containing perhaps the most impressive concentration of Baroque architecture in northern Europe. West of the square in the New Town is Gedimino prospektas , a nineteenth-century boulevard and the focus of the city’s commercial and administrative life. The traditionally Jewish areas of Vilnius between the Old Town and Gedimino prospektas still retain some sights, such as the synagogue.

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Witness unspoiled landscapes and vibrant capitals. From Vilnius to Riga and Tallinn, move all the way up to Helsinki. Along the way, visit national parks like Laheema and castles like the Trakai castle. Private transfers and unique accommodation choices are included.

Vilnius has a reasonable amount of hotels , although budget choices are relatively thin on the ground and should be booked well in advance, especially in summer. The growing crop of moderate-to-expensive hotels are modern, business-oriented affairs, but there's also a nice choice of characterful, cosy places in stylishly restored old buildings. The Old Town is a good place to look, or the area around Naujamiestis ("New Town") and Gedimino prospektas just to the west, which is within easy walking distance of the attractions. There are also a few options on the rapidly developing north bank of the river Neris.

Other inexpensive options include an increasing number of hostels and B&Bs – the cheapest way of staying close to the Old Town. Hostels are basic compared to their counterparts in Western Europe: rooms are often cramped and very simply furnished, though invariably clean, and the staff usually enthusiastic and friendly.

Cathedral Square is dominated by the Neoclassical cathedral , dating from the thirteenth century when a wooden church was built here on the site of a temple dedicated to Perkųnas, the god of thunder. The highlight of the airy, vaulted interior is the opulent Chapel of St Casimir , the patron saint of Lithuania. Next to the cathedral on the square is the white belfry, once part of the fortifications of the vanished Lower Castle. Between the cathedral and the belfry lies a small coloured tile with stebuklas (miracle) written on it, marking the spot from where, in 1989, two million people formed a human chain that stretched all the way to Tallinn, Estonia, to protest against Soviet occupation.

Immediately behind the cathedral stands the Grand Dukes’ Palace (Valdovu rumai), a 21st-century reconstruction of a Renaissance palace that fell into ruin at the end of the eighteenth century. Rebuilt more-or-less accurately by following old paintings and drawings, the courtyard-edged complex now holds a sumptuous collection of furnishings and artworks displayed in over thirty rooms, reflecting the opulent style in which Lithuania’s Grand Dukes might once have lived. Opened in summer 2013, it’s one of Lithuania’s best-labelled and best-presented collections, and also comes with gift shop and café.

Watering holes in central Vilnius, especially in the Old Town, range from faux-rustic taverns with wooden benches to swish designer bars with minimalist decor. Most places serve a wide range of food, and the locals are as likely to visit them for lunch or dinner as for a session of serious drinking. A few close at 11pm or midnight, although the majority stay open into the early hours, especially at weekends.

Vilinius has several large mainstream clubs attracting a friendly, relaxed crowd with an unsophisticated mixture of Western, commercial dance tunes and Lithuanian and Russian techno. In addition, many of the establishments have DJs or live music at weekends. Entry fees can be anything between 10 and 35Lt.

Vilnius's theatre scene is interesting and varied, although performances are invariably in Lithuanian (or Russian) except on the rare occasions when visiting companies are in town. However, the language barrier shouldn't prevent you from from enjoying shows by the best of the contemporary drama companies, from whom movement and stagecraft are often just as important as the text.

Vilnius has a rapidly growing choice of restaurants , offering everything from Lithuanian to Lebanese cuisine in all budgets. Many Vilnius restaurants serve the kind of cuisine you find in most northern European countries: meat-and-potatoes, schnitzels and chops. An increasing number, however, are serving traditional Lithuanian food, such as cepelinai , koldunai and blynai , in folksy surroundings. In addition there's no end of pizzerias and a handful of ethnic restaurants around the centre.

Many of Vilnius's cafés offer much the same food as those places that call themselves restaurants, but in more informal surroundings and at sometimes significantly cheaper prices.

On Kalinausko Street, the bronze head of rocker Frank Zappa is perched on a column against a backdrop of street art. Civil servant Saulis Paukstys founded the local Zappa fan club and, in 1992, commissioned the socialist-realist sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas to create this unique sculpture.

Rising behind the cathedral is the tree-clad Castle Hill, its summit crowned by the red-brick Gediminas Castle – one of the city’s best-known landmarks – founded by Grand Duke Gediminas, the Lithuanian ruler who consolidated the country’s independence. The tower houses a little museum , with displays of armour and models showing the former extent of Vilnius’s medieval fortifications. The view of Old Town from the top is unparalleled. Take the funicular from the courtyard of the Applied Art Museum.

Gedimino prospektas , running west from Cathedral Square, is the most important commercial street. On the southern side of Lukiskių aikštė , a square around 900m west of Cathedral Square, is Gedimino 40, Lithuania’s former KGB headquarters. The building also served as Gestapo headquarters during the German occupation and, more recently, the Soviets incarcerated political prisoners in the basement. It’s now the Genocide Museum (Genocido aukų muziejus), its torture cells and execution chamber making a grim impression. Well-labelled, detailed exhibits on Soviet occupation, deportation and Lithuanian partisan resistance are upstairs; the optional English-language audiotape commentary is worthwhile if you want a detailed prison tour.

The Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum (Valstybinis Vilniaus Gaono Žydų Muziejus) is housed in three separate branches. The Jewish History Exhibits has displays upstairs on Jewish partisan resistance, life in the Vilnius ghetto, and an exhibit on Lithuanians who risked their lives to save Jews during the Nazi occupation. The Green House , slightly uphill contains a harrowing display on the fate of Vilnius and Kaunas Jews during World War II, including eyewitness accounts, and many extremely disturbing photographs with some captions in English. Guided museum tours in English can be arranged, as well as “history of Jewish Vilnius” tours. The Centre for Tolerance inside a restored former Jewish theatre, houses some excellent twentieth-century Jewish artwork, as well as fine religious items and an excellent display in English on the second floor charting the history of Jews in Lithuania from the fourteenth century until the present day.

Before World War II, Vilnius was one of the most important centres of Jewish life in eastern Europe. The Jews – first invited to settle in 1410 by Grand Duke Vytautas – made up around a third of the city’s population, mainly concentrated in the eastern fringes of the Old Town around present-day Vokiečių gatvė, Zydų gatvė and Antokolskio gatvė. Massacres of the Jewish population began soon after the Germans occupied Vilnius on June 24, 1941, and those who survived the initial killings found themselves herded into two ghettos . The smaller of these ghettos centred on the streets of Zydų, Antokolskio, Stiklių and Gaono, and was liquidated in October 1941, while the larger occupied an area between Pylimo, Vokiečių, Lydos, Mikalojaus, Karmelitų and Arklių streets, and was liquidated in September 1943. Most of Vilnius’s 80,000 Jewish residents perished in Paneriai forest, 10km southwest of the city.

Today the Jewish population of Vilnius numbers only five thousand. The city's one surviving synagogue is a Moorish-style structure built in 1903 to serve a congregation that belonged to the Haskalah ("Enlightenment") tradition – a nineteenth-century movement that aimed to bring Judaism into line with modern secularism. Originally known as Choral Synagogue, owing to the (then innovation) use of a boys' choir during services, it was a popular place of worship for wealthier, westernized Jews pre-World War II, and now serves the whole of Vilnius's remaining Jewish community.

About 100m north of the cathedral is the Lithuanian National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus), which traces the history of Lithuania from prehistoric times to 1940 through an interesting collection of artefacts, paintings and photographs, including a display of wooden crucifixes and ethnographic reconstructions of peasant life. A little further north on Arsenalo, a separate department houses the much snazzier Prehistoric Lithuania Exhibition , displaying flint, iron, bronze and silver objects and covering the history of Lithuanians up to the Middle Ages.

On the north side of the River Neris, the National Art Gallery (Nacionalinė Dailės Galerija) houses a permanent display of eleven galleries of Lithuanian art since 1900, as well as temporary exhibitions. The works are organized to indicate how art changed in response to political circumstances such as World War II and Soviet repression; check out the photo documentaries of Antanas Sutkus in particular.

The Old Town , just south of Cathedral Square, is a network of narrow, often cobbled streets that forms the Baroque heart of Vilnius, with the pedestrianized Pilies gatvė cutting into it from the southeastern corner of the square. To the west of this street is Vilnius University , constructed between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries around nine linked courtyards that extend west to Universiteto gatvė. Within its precincts is the beautiful Baroque St John’s Church (Šv Jono baznyčia), founded during the fourteenth century, taken over by the Jesuits in 1561 and given to the university in 1737.

Napoleon Bonaparte, who stayed in Vilnius briefly during his ill-fated campaign against Russia in 1812, is said to have been so impressed by St Anne’s Church (Šv. Onos Bažnyčia), on Maironio gatvė, that he wanted to take it back to Paris on the palm of his hand. Studded with skeletal, finger-like towers, its facade overlaid with intricate brick traceries and fluting, this late sixteenth-century structure is the finest Gothic building in the capital. Just south of St Anne’s a bridge over the River Vilnia forms the border of the self-declared independent republic of Užupis , home to a flourishing population of artists, bohemians and yuppies (note the locks on the bridge: lovers fasten them here and then throw the key in the river to symbolize their union). Stroll up from Užupio Café across the bridge to see the psychedelic art gallery with weird and wonderful creations suspended above the river. Some of the buildings here are in dire need of repair, but there is a trendy feel to the area.

West of Užupis, Pilies gatvė becomes Didžioji gatvė as it heads south, with the restored Baroque palace at no. 4 housing the Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveikslų Galerija), with a marvellous collection of sixteenth- to nineteenth-century paintings and sculptures from around the country. The colonnaded Neoclassical building at the end of Town Hall Square (Rotušės aikštė) is the Town Hall itself. The Contemporary Art Centre (Suolaikinio meno centras or SMC) lies behind it, hosting modern art exhibitions with interactive elements and a good café. East of the square is the striking St Casimir’s Church (Šv. Kazimiero Bažnyčia), the oldest Baroque church in the city, dating from 1604, and possessing a beautiful interior including a marble altarpiece. South of here, Didžioji becomes Aušros Vartų gatvė, leading to the Gate of Dawn (Aušros Vartų), the sole survivor of the nine city gates. A chapel above the gate houses the image of the Madonna of the Gates of Dawn, said to have miraculous powers and revered by Polish Catholics; open-air Mass is held on Sundays.

Around 30km west of Vilnius lies the little town of Trakai , a mix of concrete Soviet-style buildings merging with the wooden cottages of the Karaite community. The former capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Trakai was founded during the fourteenth century and, standing on a peninsula jutting out between two lakes, it’s the site of two impressive medieval castles and makes for a worthwhile day-trip from the capital.

Once you arrive, follow Vytauto gatvė and turn right down Kėstučio gatvė to reach the remains of the Peninsula Castle , now partially restored after having been destroyed by the Russians in 1655. Skirting the ruins along the lakeside path, you will see the spectacular Island Castle (Salos pilis), one of Lithuania’s most famous monuments, accessible by two wooden drawbridges and preceded by souvenir and rowing-boat rental (15Lt) stalls. You can also rent yachts here. Built around 1400 AD by Grand Duke Vytautas, under whom Lithuania reached the pinnacle of its power during the fifteenth century, the castle fell into ruin from the seventeenth century until a 1960s restoration returned it to its former glory. The history museum inside displays artefacts discovered while excavating the site.

Trakai is home to three hundred Karaim, Lithuania’s smallest ethnic minority – a Judaic sect of Turkish origin whose ancestors were brought here from the Crimea by Grand Duke Vytautas to serve as bodyguards. You can learn more about their cultural contribution to Trakai at the Karaite Ethnographic Exhibition . You can sample kibinai , the Karaite culinary speciality – a mincemeat pasty – served up at the cafés arounds; wash it down with gira , a semi-alcoholic drink made from fermented bread.

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updated 26.04.2021

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Events' Dates (from - to)

Events' categories.

2024-05-07 18:00

Lazarus | International University Theater Forum

Theatre “Meno Fortas”

Free Admission, Performances

2024-05-07 20:30

Hour 00 | International University Theater Forum

VU Theatre Hall

On Tuesdays, On Thursdays, On Saturdays

Regular walking tour of Vilnius Old Town

Start Near Gediminas Monument

Open Air, Excursions

On Tuesdays, On Fridays

Užupis free walking tour

prie Adomo Mickevičiaus paminklo

Free Admission, Open Air, Excursions

2024-04-27 - 2024-05-12

New Baltic Dance

Various venues

2024-04-25 18:00 - 2024-05-18

XX International Biennial of Enamel Art “Vilnius 2024”

Gallery “Meno niša”

Free Admission, Exhibitions

2024-02-23 - 2024-05-19

A Renaissance masterpiece from Wawel. Giovanni Bellini’s “Madonna and Child”

The Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania

Exhibitions

2024-04-25 - 2024-05-19

“The Rebels of 1863-1864”. Exhibition of the Museum of Polish History

(LT) Valdovų rūmų Didysis kiemas

Free Admission, Exhibitions, Open Air

2024-03-01 - 2024-05-21

Henrikas Čerapas | Memorial of Papilė Cooperative Warehouse

Martynas Mažvydas National Library of Lithuania

2024-04-26 - 2024-05-24

mone Kiele’s painting exhibition “Laume daydreaming”

Užupis Art Incubator

2024-04-26 - 2024-05-25

Reel to Reel to Jonas Mekas | Chihiro Ito

Jonas Mekas Visual Art Center

2024-02-13 - 2024-05-26

A Room of the Masterpiece. Frans Hals’s Evangelists from the Odessa Museum of Western and Eastern Art

Museum of the Radvilas Palace

Exhibitions, Other

2024-02-14 - 2024-05-26

Exhibition “Freedom symbols of the Baltic States, 1918–1940. Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia”

2024-05-04 - 2024-05-26

Creative workshops for kids

Free Admission, For children, Other

2023-09-20 - 2024-05-26

To Believe or Not to Believe: Conspiracy Theories

History house

2024-05-02 - 2024-05-28

Kipras Černiauskas. Unalive

Pamėnkalnio Gallery

2024-05-07 - 2024-05-31

Justina Semčenkaitė | Wearable activism: to dress or to protest?

(LT) VDA galerija ARTIFEX

2023-07-05 - 2024-05-31

Paroda „Vardan jos, laisvos“

The Bastion of Vilnius City Wall

2024-05-07 18:00 - 2024-06-01

Artūras Mikoliūnas “On the paths of colours”

M. K. Čiurlionio House

2024-03-28 - 2024-06-01

Spring Stroll at Europos Parkas

Europos parkas

Open Air, Other

2024-04-26 - 2024-06-01

Marijus Jacovskis | Self-portraits

Tsekh Gallery

2024-04-26 - 2024-06-09

#mEU20 | Exhibition marking the 20th anniversary of Lithuania’s accession to the European Union

2024-04-02 - 2024-06-12

Street Sports classes 2nd round

Free Admission, Sport, Other

2024-04-04 - 2024-06-19

Live tropical butterfly exhibition

Exhibitions, For children

2024-01-26 - 2024-06-30

Collect. Preserve. Disclose. The Museum Detective

Vilnius museum

2023-11-22 - 2024-09-01

A Worldwide Lithuania: Our Migration Story

2024-04-05 - 2024-09-08

Unframed: Leis, Tabaka, Rožanskaitė

Vytautas Kasiulis Art Museum

2024-03-09 - 2024-09-08

Major exhibition – WE DON’T DO THIS

Exhibition “unframed: leis, tabaka, rožanskaitė”.

2024-04-01 14:00 - 2024-09-30

Electric scooter city tour of Vilnius highlights

Meeting point: A Stulginskio str. 5

2024-03-22 10:00 - 2024-09-30

Full day Self-Guided trip to Trakai – bicycle rent and train tickets

Excursions, Other

2024-04-01 11:00 - 2024-09-30

City bike tour of Vilnius highlights

Open Air, Sport, Excursions

2024-04-25 - 2024-09-30

Chagall. Picasso. Ernst. Ceramics and Tapestries

Museum of Applied Arts and Design

Darius Hecqas-Cauquilis. Grįžimas prie ištakų

2024-04-20 - 2024-10-20

“Invisible Angels” | Sound installation

Campanile of Sts. John Church

2024-05-07 - 2024-10-20

(Non)academic. Bolesław Rusiecki (1824–1913)  

Vilnius Picture Gallery

2024-04-30 - 2024-11-24

Archimedes From Athens – Interactive Exhibition About the Hi-Tech of Ancient Greece

Energy and Technology Museum

Interactive exhibition from Athens “Archimedes and his time”

2024-01-01 - 2024-12-31

Discover Vilnius with Vilnius city card

2024-01-15 - 2024-12-31

Guided Lukiškės Prison tour in English

Lukiškės Prison

2021-04-01 - 2024-12-31

Renewed exposition “From Flint to Gunpowder: Weapons through the Ages”

2020-10-28 - 2024-12-31

Can I talk to them?

Old Arsenal

2024-02-28 - 2025-02-28

Trails of Angels | VR film

For children, Other

Vilnius Tourist Information Centre Pilies g. 7, Vilnius , +370 5 262 9660 [email protected]

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12 Best Things to do in Vilnius, Lithuania

By Alex Schultz · Last updated on May 4, 2024

Lithuania’s capital and largest city, Vilnius, is steeped in history, with lots for visitors to see and do. Located in the southeast of the Baltic state, the city straddles the banks of the Neris River and has long attracted traders and travelers to its ancient streets. Consequently, there is a very multicultural feel to it, with German, Polish, Russian, and of course, Lithuanian influences all on show.

Home to impressive churches and cathedrals, cozy cafes, and quirky art installations, Vilnius boasts one of the best-preserved Old Towns in Europe. While it was once known as ‘the Jerusalem of the North,’ its thriving Jewish population was sadly wiped out during the Second World War. A number of historic tourist attractions, cultural landmarks, and fascinating museums are tragically all that remains of the sizeable community.

Nowadays, however, it is a very pretty and peaceful place, with plenty of parks and green spaces dotted around. It is this lovely, laidback feel that make the things to do in Vilnius a delight to explore.

12. Vilnius University

One of the oldest higher education institutions in the whole of Central Europe and the Baltics, Vilnius University was remarkably founded all the way back in the 16th century. As various buildings, courtyards, and galleries were added over the years, it showcases a wide range of architectural styles.

Wandering around the campus is a treat as you pass wonderful Baroque, Classical, and Gothic features. The two main attractions are its lovely library and the Church of St. John, both of which make for majestic sights. While the university may be centuries old, it still hums with life as students and tourists alike congregate in the Grand Courtyard.

11. Vilnil Museum of Illusions

Only opened in 2016, the Vilnil Museum of Illusions is a fun and fascinating place to visit that is dedicated to a rather unique and unusual field. As the name indicates, the museum looks at optical illusions. Some of its interactive exhibitions really are mind-boggling to behold.

Perusing its creative, perspective-altering installations, 3D paintings, and virtual reality displays make for a cool experience. In addition to this, the museum also hosts amazing LED dance shows and performances every week.

10. Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania

Once the cultural and political center of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, this fantastic palace actually only dates to 2018. This is because the original was destroyed in 1801 after having stood in the same spot since at least the 15th century. Located within Vilnius’ Lower Castle, the reconstructed palace now features some marvelous Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance-style ceremonial halls and serves as an excellent museum.

While exploring its grounds, you’ll get to see the ruins and remnants of the former palace and lots of interesting exhibitions on the history of Lithuania. With so many wonderful artifacts, artworks, and architecture on show, the Grand Duke’s palace has something that will interest everyone.

9. Gediminas Tower

Boasting one of the best views of the city, Gediminas Tower has watched over Vilnius and the Neris River ever since 1409. Set upon a prominent hilltop, the tower is one of the only remaining parts of the Upper Castle still on show and was rebuilt in its current form in 1933. The three-tiered red brick tower looks very distinctive. Inside, there are some fabulous models of what the castle used to look like.

The main highlight, however, is the breathtaking view you can enjoy from its observation deck. To reach Gediminas Tower, visitors can take a delightful little funicular ride up the side of the hill to the important and historical sight, which acts as a symbol of the city.

8. Uzupis Statue

Surrounded on three sides by the Vilnia River which loops around it, Uzupis is the artsiest and most bohemian neighborhood of the city. Meaning ‘beyond the river’ in Lithuanian, the self-proclaimed ‘republic’ certainly has its own distinctive look, feel, and identity. This is perfectly encapsulated in the magnificent statue that lies at its heart – the Angel of Uzupis.

While the angel blowing on a horn was erected in honor of Zenonas Steinys, a local animator, the bronze sculpture has since come to represent the rejuvenation and revitalization of the quirky district.

7. Gate of Dawn

Built between 1503 and 1522, the gorgeous Gate of Dawn is the only remaining part of Vilnius’ city wall still standing. Not only a significant historical and cultural landmark, the gate is also a popular pilgrimage site as it is home to a famous and revered chapel of the same name.

Within the chapel is an exquisite painting and icon of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and many people come here to pay their respects or pray for miracles. Entering Vilnius for the first time through such a monumental gate really is an unforgettable way to start your trip.

6. Vilnius Cathedral

Glimmering in the light, the bright white Vilnius Cathedral and beautiful belfry before it are one of the main symbols and sights in the city. While a wooden cathedral was first erected here all the way back in 1387, the current Neoclassical building only dates to 1783.

Very elegant to gaze upon, it is here in the cathedral that the Grand Dukes of Lithuania used to be coronated. Fitting of such an auspicious occasion, the interior is lavishly decorated, with lots of splendid artworks and frescoes on display. Its crypts and catacombs are also well worth exploring: these house the remains of many of the nation’s most famous figures, and the tombs themselves make for a magnificent sight.

5. KGB Museum

Recently renamed the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights, the KGB Museum (as it is informally known) certainly looks at a tough, troublesome, and tragic part of the country’s history. Located in a huge building that once acted as the KGB’s headquarters in Vilnius, the museum houses lots of harrowing displays that document the country’s 50-year occupation by the Soviet Union.

Its vast collection includes artifacts, photos, and the prison cells themselves in which the Lithuanian resistance were tortured and executed. Although it is not for the faint-hearted, the KGB Museum is definitely worth visiting for the important light it sheds on Lithuania’s troubled past.

4. Church of St Peter and St Paul

Although the Church of St Peter and St Paul does not appear all that special at first sight, visiting it really is a must when in Vilnius. This is because its breathtaking Baroque interior boasts some spectacular stuccoes, with around 2,000 intricately carved figures on show. It is this huge number that makes the church unique in Europe.

Painted in a dazzling bright white, its interior sparkles before your eyes and looks very elegant and ornate. Interspersed among the never-ending stuccoes are some wonderful frescoes for you to enjoy, as well as a fantastic Rucoco pulpit. Built between 1675 and 1704, the Church of St Peter and St Paul offers a visual extravaganza with so many sculptures and stuccoes for you to take in.

3. Hill of Three Crosses

Towering above Vilnius, the Hill of Three Crosses boasts brilliant 360-degree panoramas of the city and its surroundings. While its viewpoint is the main attraction, the hill and the three crosses set atop it are actually an important historic site, and symbol of the country’s rebirth.

As the legend goes, wooden crosses were erected atop of the hill all the way back in the 17th century to commemorate seven Franciscan friars who were beheaded here. In the fifties, however, the Soviets removed them, with the current monuments only being built in 1989 as the union was collapsing. As such, the Three Crosses came to symbolize the nation’s reawakening. Popular among both tourists and locals alike, many people come here in the evening to watch the sun set over the city.

2. St. Anne’s Church

Lying on the banks of the Vilnia River, St. Anne’s Church is undoubtedly one of the most impressive and beautiful buildings in the city. Dating to the year 1500, the church was built in a Flamboyant Gothic style, and this is what makes it so appealing. Flanked by two towers, with a delightful spire lying between them, its elegant red brick facade really does make for a beautiful sight.

While its Baroque interior is somewhat plain in comparison, its main altar is well worth checking out. One of the most prominent landmarks in Vilnius, the gorgeous St. Anne’s Church lies just a stone’s throw away from many of the Old Town’s most important sights.

1. Old Town

One of the largest and most well-preserved historic centers in Northern Europe and the Baltics, Vilnius’s Old Town is a treat to explore, with marvelous medieval buildings wherever you look. Encompassing some 74 different quarters, it is home to a wide array of different architectural styles. You’ll find Baroque and Classical palaces and artisans’ guilds on show alongside Gothic and Renaissance churches and cathedrals.

Interspersed among its many historical sights and cultural landmarks are atmospheric cafes and restaurants that also date back centuries. With numerous different sides to it, you can be walking through the castle complex one minute, Cathedral Square the next, before finding yourself in the Vilnius Ghetto. With so much for you to see and do, Vilnius’ Old Town is the highlight of any trip to the city.

Best Time to Visit Vilnius

Tucked away in the southeast of the country, Lithuania’s capital Vilnius sees the most people visit in both summer and winter. While July and August are perfect for sightseeing, outdoor dining and making the most of the warm weather, December sees magical Christmas lights and sometimes snow transforms the Old Town into a winter wonderland.

With average temperatures reaching 16 to 22°C (61 to 71°F), May through September is by far the best time to visit Vilnius. Many of its biggest events like the Capital Days Festival and Vilnius Culture Night also take place. Along with Christmastime, this is the busiest and most expensive period.

Although the city is already greyer and darker, many also visit for the Vilnius Jazz Festival in October. Its glittering golden trees also make for some great photos alongside its beautiful Baroque buildings.

From November to early January, the city’s cozy Christmas market and colourful decorations convince many to brave temperatures of -3 to 4°C (26 to 39°F). A festive atmosphere prevails despite the long dark days.

After the New Year’s Eve celebrations, the city sleeps until spring when its pretty blooming flowers appear again.

Map of Things to do in Vilnius, Lithuania

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A local’s guide to Vilnius, Lithuania: 10 top tips

‘Vilnius, the G-spot of Europe: Nobody knows where it is, but when you find it, it’s amazing’ … a bold claim from a recent tourist ad that went viral

T he poster produced by two students referring to Lithuania’s capital as Europe’s G-spot really sums the city up: it is not where you thought it was. It is not in eastern Europe, not even in central Europe, but the capital of a Baltic state in northern Europe.

Founded in 1323 by grand duke Gediminas, who attracted Jewish and German tradesmen and merchants with generous tax exemptions, for centuries it became a destination for those fleeing religious persecution (there was even a Scottish Calvinist community in Vilnius) or tough trade guild regulations. The city’s coat of arms features Saint Christopher, the patron saint of travellers.

The same liberal attitude continued through the centuries, and today the city still has its Catholic, Protestant, Jewish and Ruthenian Orthodox quarters. For two centuries from 1569, it was the co-capital of what was then Europe’s biggest empire – the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Later, Vilnius withstood Russian tsarist and Soviet occupation, and in 1991 gained its freedom and independence.

Užupis Republic

On 1 April 1997, the Užupis district (the name means “over the river”) declared itself a separate republic, forming a bohemian commune with a president, foreign ministry and even a constitution. During Soviet times, Užupis Street was called the Lane of Death for its crime rate, but it’s safe now, and boasts galleries, boutiques and restaurants. On Thursdays, nearby Tymo Turgus food market is the destination for organic produce: stalls sell homemade cheeses and juniper smoked meats, honey (including linden, clover and forest flowers), pickles, jams and preserves (sea buckthorn and rosehip are local specialities), herbal teas, berries and vegetables. There’s also plenty of streetfood – artisanal burgers and bagels, meat on skewers and pastries – to enjoy to the sound of local DJs. Stop in at Špunka (Užupio g 9), a cosy pub with a wide selection of local beers. 10am-3.30pm, tymoturgelis.lt

National Gallery

Vilnians love the Nacionalinė Dailės Galerija, simply called NDG, across the River Neris from the centre. What was the Museum of Revolution has been revamped into a contemporary art gallery. The permanent exhibitions are contemporary and of 20th-century Lithuanian art (though you won’t see our symbolists – the best of them are currently are on loan to Paris’s Musée d’Orsay for its Wild Souls: Symbolism in the Baltic States show). The bookstore is fantastic, and the restaurant has a river view and a European menu that changes weekly. Konstitucijos prospektas 22, ndg.lt

Stikliai Hotel

The Stikliai (Glassblowers) hotel was the first five-star hotel in Vilnius to open after independence in 1990. Yet it is relatively affordable, with rooms from €144. It’s in the former Jewish quarter, with easy access to all the main sights. There is a pool in the basement, a closed atrium with greenery and a comfortable conservatory which is a locals’ favourite place for a nightcap. Pastry shop “ Ponių laimė ” (Ladies’ Joy) across the street belongs to the same owners and all the fruits served in the hotel come from their eco-farm in Dubingiai, 50km north of the city. More affordable is the Amberton Hotel , which overlooks Cathedral Square and has doubles from €98 B&B. stikliaihotel.lt

Restaurants

Most good restaurants in the city are determined to use only locally sourced organic produce, taking inspiration from the seasons and adding a contemporary twist to traditional Lithuanian recipes. Publication of the annual list of Lithuania’s 30 best restaurants is hotly anticipated. Most restaurants in the top 30 are reasonable, with mains from €20. Try the local fish – pike, sturgeon and smoked eel – at places like Dine ; and mushrooms at restaurants such as Gaspar’s or Somm (try anything with boletus). Beetroot is in vogue – from crisps to tartares to ice-creams – and is popular on the menu at Dziaugsmas .

Gate of Dawn

The chapel in the Gate of Dawn in the former city wall hosts our famous Madonna, in radiant gold and silver. Painted by an unknown artist, it was placed over the gates in the 16th century to protect the city from enemies and is said to have miraculous powers. There are copies in Saint Peter’s in Rome, in Paris, Venice and South America. Fortunately, a Soviet plan to demolish the gates in the 1950s to make way for the avenue leading to the station was abandoned. Locals go there to pray, and they continue the tradition of bringing ex votos – silver and gilt hearts, arms and legs, representing body parts that were healed. The walls of the shrine are covered with thousands of them. Aušros Vartų 14, ausrosvartai.lt

St John’s Church

For an overview of the extensive Unesco-listed old town, take the lift (open May-October) up the belltower of St John’s Church and climb the last few steps to the open balcony. There, 60 metres up, you’ll notice German gothic, Italian baroque and French classicist architecture, plus Russian Orthodox domes and the labyrinth of the Jewish quarter, all surrounded by green hills. Several scenes of the BBC’s 2016 adaption of War & Peace were shot within this view. University Street, muziejus.vu.lt

Church of St Peter & Paul

Aristocratic 18th-century Lithuanian travellers were rather unimpressed with London’s St Paul’s Cathedral and noted in their diaries that its interior did not come close to St Peter and Paul’s church in Vilnius. Begun in 1668 it embodies the baroque principle – a balance between control and chaos. There are thousands of sculptures by Giovanni Pietro Perti and his team from Ticino, Switzerland, all in white stucco. Look for the statue of Saint Mary Magdalene in a fashionable dress – it’s said to be a portrait of Perti’s beloved Lithuanian wife, Magdalena. Antakalnio 1, vilniauspetropovilo.lt

Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights

At this sobering must-see, visitors can go into the cells, where, between 1958 and 1987, thousands of Lithuanians were detained, interrogated, tortured and executed. Once a courthouse, it became the Gestapo’s Vilnius HQ after the Nazi invasion, and would have played a role in the murder of much of the country’s Jewish population, before the KGB moved in after the USSR retook the Baltic states during 1944. After that, many who entered this building emerged only to be deported to the gulags of Siberia. You will come out enlightened about the reality of the Soviet socialist system. It is one of the best-rated museums by foreign visitors and essential to understanding the recent history of Lithuania. Aukų 2A, genocid.lt/muziejus

Vilnius City Opera

Vilnius is known for its classical musicians and singers – Jascha Heifetz was born and discovered as a prodigy here. The famous mezzosoprano Violeta Urmana is more often on the stage of Milan’s La Scala than at home, but do check the programmes. Directed by a Dalia Ibelhauptaite (wife of British actor and director Dexter Fletcher), the productions are young, ambitious and spectacular , from a half-British team, working with the best of Lithuanian vocal talents, usually heard in Glyndebourne, Covent Garden or Salzburg. Best of all, tickets start from €20. Congress Palace, Vilniaus 6, on Facebook

Botanical garden

Vilnius University is home to a venerable botanical garden, founded in 1781 by French professor Jean-Emmanuel Gilibert and later expanded by James Cook’s companion, the botanist Georg Forster. Since 1974 it has been at Kairėnai, on the outskirts of Vilnius, in the woods of a former country manor. May sees an amazing variety of lilacs in bloom, the rhododendron collection is impressive in June, and there are also Japanese gardens. There’s also horse riding – €10-€15 for an hour’s ride, carriage rides from €30 and a barbecue area with picnic tables. Entry €1.5o, botanikos-sodas.vu.lt

Getting there Norwegian and airBaltic fly to Vilnius from Gatwick, Wizz Air flies from Belfast, Doncaster/Sheffield and Luton, and Ryanair from six UK airports.

Best time to go 2018 is the centenary of the restored state of Lithuania, which will be celebrated at the Centenary Song Festival (30 June-6 July), with a focus on traditional music, crafts and folklore, culminating in a choir of 20,000 singers and 6,000 dancers performing at Vingis Park. The Christopher Summer Festival (12 July-28 August) features classical, jazz and pop.

Exchange rate £1 = €1.13 Beer in a pub: around €3.25 for half litre

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Travel Guide To Vilnius

Lithuania's capital enjoyed limited freedom even in the Soviet era; but democracy has transformed the city beyond recognition. Once a Soviet backwater, Vilnius is now extraordinarily pretty, almost every building in the centre has had the Cinderella treatment. There is a sense of novelty about the swish cafés and the good-looking bars. The youthful vibe on the street is partly down to the fact that 90% of the population seems to be under the age of 24 and out for a good time, but there are few of the stag parties that one associates other Baltic cities with. Vilnius is a great place for a honeymoon or a hand-holding, affordable weekend à deux . Or, you could spend a perfectly contented weekend here just pottering around the Old Town.

Where to stay in Vilnius

GROTTHUSS HOTEL

Ligonines 7, Vilnius (00 370 5 2660 322; www.grotthusshotel.com ). This has 20 pretty rooms, a delightful courtyard for breakfast and the owner's art colelciton on the walls. The three-storey building has no lift. £££

NARUTIS HOTEL

Pilies 24, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 2894; www.narutis.com ). Now a splendid five-star hotel, Narutis was built in 1581 to house visitors to the university across the road. It has been sympathetically restored: in one chamber, which used to be the rector's dining room, you can still see 18th-century frescoes on the old plaster. One of the suites has a separate bathroom for visitors and a set of bedrooms across the corridor for masseur, bodyguard, PA and other flunkies. £££

RADISSON SAS ASTORIJA HOTEL

Didzioji 35/2, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 0110; www.radisson.com/vilniuslt ). Right next to the city hall, this is the hotel of choice for visiting dignitaries - who have included President Bush and Prince Charles. The Sunday brunch is terrific, as is the conservatory café, which looks out onto the church of St Casimir. There are good conference facilities and a bijou fitness room. ££

SCANDIC NERINGA

Gedimino 23, Vilnius (00 370 5 268 1910; www.scandichotels.com/neringa). This is the old Intourist hotel, and the restaurant still has some of its Soviet formality. It also has a 1970s mural, showing happy Lithuanians enjoying the fruits of socialism. There is a basement bar dedicated to the Sixties. ££

SHAKESPEARE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Bernardinu 8/8, Vilnius (00 370 5 266 5885; www.shakespeare.lt ). The 31 rooms are named after writers such as Milton or Aristotle. Roaring fires make the Globe bar and Sonnets restaurant cosy in winter. £££

STIKLIAI HOTEL

Gaono 7, Vilnius (00 370 5 264 9595; www.stikliaihotel.lt ). This 17th-century building has 43 rooms, a stunning, glass-roofed restaurant, and a tavern for more casual dining. £££

Where to eat out in Vilnius

CAFES PILIES KEPYKLELE Pilies 19, Vilnius (00 370 5 260 8992). A genteel café whose name means 'little oven'. It's a nice place for coffee and cakes in the afternoon, or salmon and potato pancakes at lunchtime. Waitresses all wear striped pencil skirts, like updated versions of the Lyons Tea House 'Nippies'. SKONIS IR KVAPAS Traku 8, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 2803). Tearoom with a large choice of teas and coffee. SOPRANO ICE CREAM Pilies 3, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 6042). A fantastic ice-cream parlour, which also offers takeaway cornets. Couples on dates, and mothers on shopping trips sit eating knickerbocker glories in the intimate booths. RESTAURANTS BISTRO 18 Stikliu 18, Vilnius (00 370 6 777 2091; www.bistro18.lt ). A modern restaurant run by an Irish-Lithuanian couple. Scallops with green-pea puree and chantarelles with cream and bacon make one of the best meals in Vilnius. FIORENTINO Universiteto 4, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 0925). An Italian restaurant in a colonnaded courtyard. Serves simple, classic salads and pasta dishes. www.fiorentino.lt MANO GURU Vilniaus 22/1, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 0126). Good for a healthy lunch, with a daily changing soup and 63 delicious salads. PILIES MENE Pilies 8, Vilnius (00 370 5 261 2552). A sophisticated bar right on the main street of the Old Town, good for lunch or an afternoon snack. The slow service is charming, and there are many kinds of pancakes on the menu. ROJAUS ARKA Dauksos 3, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 0625). Formal restaurant with Edwardian décor and Art Nouveau trimmings just outside the Gates of Dawn. It sometimes hosts art exhibitions and chamber concerts. Fantastic value. SONNETS Bernardinu 8/8, Vilnius (00 370 5 266 5885; www.shakespeare.lt ). The room and the service are lovely at this restaurant inside the Shakespeare Hotel (see Where to Stay) . It is one of the most expensive places in Vilnius.

The best nightlife in Vilnius

Lithuanians are very fond of beer. The most widespread brand of local beer is called Svyturys, which means 'lighthouse'. Every pint, in every bar and restaurant, is unimpeachable, chilled, sharp and delicious. They also drink mead and a tooth-achingly sweet honey liqueur called Krupnikas.

CAFE DE PARIS

Didzioji 1, Vilnius (00 370 5 261 1021; www.cafedeparis.lt ). Next to the French cultural centre, Café de Paris serves salads and panini and is quite convincingly rive gauche . On a Sunday night it is filled with the gilded youth of Vilnius and is absolutely jumping.

Ausros Vartu 6, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 1210; www.invino.lt ). Busy wine bar near the Town Hall.

Sv Ignoto 4/3, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 1087; www.laboheme.lt ). Three large rooms with vaulted ceilings, a good wine list and delicious, inexpensive tapas.

UZUPIO KAVINE

Uzupio 2, Vilnius (00 370 5 212 2138; www.uzupiokavine.lt ). The first bar inside the free republic of Uzupis. On a warm evening you can sit on the veranda and watch the River Vilnia.

ZEMAICIU SMUKLE

Vokieciu 24, Vilnius (00 370 5 261 6573). A bit like a German bierkeller . In the cavernous depths downstairs, the lights are low and the walls covered in jolly murals. Next door is a posher dining room reminiscent of London's gay Hussar. The menu contains 120 variations on the theme of meat and potatoes. They include zeppelins refried and 'huntsman's skillet' - a collation of rabbit, duck, veal and chicken. There are all sorts of interesting things to chew and nibble as you drink: fried bread, smoked fish and cheese, and sausages that are the length of a policeman's truncheon.

What to see in Vilnius

BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS

GATE OF DAWN CHAPEL

Eastern Gates, Vilnius ( www.lcn.lt ). This exquisite chapel is a 15-minute walk uphill through the silent streets. It is built into a gatehouse above the city wall and hangs over the Old Town like a blessing. From the pavement you can look up at the great icon of the dark-faced Madonna. To get into the chapel you have to trace your way back to an anonymous doorway further down the street. Inside, a set of worn steps leads up the icon. The properly pious negotiate them on their knees.

RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT

Ausros Vartu 10, Vilnius. The rococo interior is an astonishing piece of work, a sculpted mass of pink, green and blue marble with gold and red hangings. In the dead centre of the church is a glass-topped coffin, like Snow White's. It contains three desiccated martyrs, quite short and completely covered up with an ornate blanket.

THE CATHEDRAL

Katedros aikšt, Vilnius. Visit the Cathedral, on central Cathedral Square. The side chapel of St Casimir has wonderful paintings.

TRAKAI CASTLE

Trakai ( www.trakaimuziejus.lt ). The 14th-century capital is a 40-minute drive away. Enjoy the castle and a view over lunch at Apvalaus Stalo Klubas (00 370 5 285 5595; www.asklubas.lt ).

THE MUSEUM OF GENOCIDE VICTIMS

Auku 2a, Vilnius (00 370 5 249 7427; www.genocid.lt ). The dungeon of the former KGB HQ is a sobering place. Now The Museum of Genocide Victims, it is hardly a museum at all because nothing has really been touched since the secret police vacated the building in 1991. Names of people who died there have been inscribed in the marble blocks of the façade, turning each into a gravestone for someone without a grave. Inside, the stairwell is boarded up, presumably to prevent new arrests from throwing themselves to their deaths before interrogation, and in the basement at the bottom of the steps is a tiny holding cell where prisoners were kept for days before being processed. You can wander into the interrogation room and into most of the cells, all of which are below ground. There is a tiny grille above head height which lets in some murky light. Prisoners might, as they waited endless hours, have seen the faint shadow of a free man go by. There is an isolation cell: a truly terrifying space barely larger than a toilet cubicle. Prisoners would be stripped to their underwear and left there for a week. There is a room full of bulging files, the 'cases' of some of the prisoners who languished here; and a padded cell where a straitjacket hangs on the wall like a canvas crucifix. In the guardroom there is a set of scales for weighing prisoners' parcels - a privilege introduced after Stalin's death. It all has the authentic whiff of the USSR: damp bricks, rotting paper, dim light and despair. From the prison block you cross a tiny courtyard and go down more stairs to a cellar where thousands of Lithuanians were executed in the 1940s. The wall is pockmarked with bullet holes, as if the executions ended only yesterday. Even after half an hour in this place you cannot help but gulp fresh air when you emerge.

UPPER CASTLE

Arsenalo 5, Vilnius. Go to the Upper Castle for city views. Closed Monday, except during summer.

Things to do in Vilnius

JEWISH QUARTER

Walk around the Jewish Quarter in the Old Town, west of Didzioji. Most of Vilnius's Jews were murdered, exiled or imprisoned by the Nazis and Soviets: the Jewish Museum's Holocaust exhibition on Pamenkalnio tells the story (00 370 5 262 0730; www.jmuseum.lt ).

Wander along the pedestrianised Pilies, resting at a pavement café such as Aula or Pilies Kepyklele (see Where to Eat) and exploring the craft and linen shops.

How to get to Vilnius

Vilnius International airport ( www.vilnius-airport.lt ) is to the south of Vilnius. It is only a 15-minute drive from the centre of the capital.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK

There are direct flights from London to Vilnius with AirBaltic (00 370 5 235 6000; www.airbaltic.com ).

Tourist information for Vilnius

Visit www.vilnius-tourism.lt .

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Nearby guides

Section in Vilnius Do & See No trip to Vilnius is complete without a visit to the self-declared Republic of Užupis, just across the sparkling river Vilnia, and behind the spectacular red Gothic façade of St Anne’s Church. Just be sure not to miss the prominently displayed constitution (it is in Lithuanian, French, and English) which states, among other things, that: 'Every dog has the right to be a dog'. Other places of special interest include Vilnius University, the Hill of Three Crosses, the Gates of Dawn, the Presidential Palace, the Town Hall, Ponar Memorial, and Kalvariijų market, not to mention countless other museums, galleries, churches and statues. Just one thing is certain when it comes to Vilnius: one visit is never enough. Read more

Bernardine Garden

Vilnius Cathedral

Gediminas Castle Tower

Vilnius University Ensemble

Amber Museum-Gallery

Pilies Street

Church of St Anne and Bernardine Complex

Church of Sts Peter and Paul

Republic of Užupis

Hill of Three Crosses

Literatų Street

Gediminas Avenue

Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights

National Art Gallery

Europos Parkas

Frank Zappa Statue