2011 toyota corolla le cruise control not working

5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

Learn more:

• Brake Lights Not Working But Tail Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Tail Lights Not Working But Brake Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Brake Lights Stay On? (5 Causes & How to Fix it)

Categories: Electric , Troubleshooting

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• 2009 - 2013 Toyota Corolla

2010 Corolla LE Cruise Control Question

• Thread starter Fred_G
• Start date Apr 4, 2020

Howdy, I searched the Google and on the forums and am unclear. Does anyone know if the 2010 Corolla LE is prewired for CC? Needing only the switch to enable it, or does it require more parts? Thanks.  

Most are. My 2009 was. go here; http://www.rostra.com/custom-drive-by-wire-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php Go over to 250-1836 then click on Form#5156 and scroll down to the Corolla section. I used this info to help install mine. I got a used stalk which plugged right in, I just needed to re-do a ground connection in the steering wheel. Note: the cruise stalk is not Corolla specific, the same one is used in multiple vehicles.  

Thanks a lot. Will check around for used CC control locally, or order online.  

And it does not have it. There was no open 4 prong plug for the cruise control to plug into. There was a 3 pin the horn ground was on, but it would not work on that. Actually, it could be my installation or a bad cruise switch? It does have the Cruise icon on the cluster next to the speedometer.  

It's been awhile since I did mine but I do remember having to re-do the ground wire because it couldn't plug back in to the original spot. I think because that's where the cruise plug went. Did you take a pic by chance?  

I looked over the instructions again (Including Toyota ones, about the same, http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/00016-01208inst.pdf ) and they all say to ensure ground is plugged back in. Just wondering, did you verify the ECM has a wire in the proper spot? My cruise just started acting up. I ordered another switch, could possibly being changing it out next weekend. Whenever I do I'll get some pics as well as find out what I did with the ground wire. I'm thinking ground is most likely problem.  

The cruise control wire has 2 wires in the bottom 2 slots of the 4 pin plug. the upper left was where the horn ground was in. The horn ground was also a 4 pin plug, with only the upper left being used. (Cruise only has wires on bottom 2).  

That sounds like what I remember mine had. When I looked at instructions again both Rostra (figure 17) and Toyota (figure 9) show 3 wires being used at the plug. I'm pretty sure I cut the 'plug' off the ground, extended the wire and put a grounding lug on it. Don't remember where I attached it but guessing one of the phillips screws that show in your pic. I.m thinking without the wire connected there is no ground going to the switch.  

Or if you have the right tool you could try popping the ground wire out of its connector and putting it in the proper spot of the cruise connector. I don't have a tool for that and didn't want to chance wrecking a connector.  

Thanks, that is exactly how mine looks. Going to try the CC switch again. Guessing maybe a bad switch? Bought mine on E-Bay. I need to find an adapter like the one you have for the horn ground. I cut the wire off the horn ground a bit too short to re attach (DOH!), thinking it would ground off one of the phillips head screws, but no luck on the horn. I am sure I can get the horn grounded, but that adapter would be the way to go. Thanks for the pictures, appreciate the help.  

I found the bag it came in. Got it from Toyota years ago. 00016-01208-02 but it doesn't show as available any more. It looks a lot like the wiring kit that comes with the Rostra set up. Maybe they would sell it by itself. I also looked at a couple Toyota parts sites and some of their cruise harness look like they might have the ground wire with it. Might be worth checking into.  

Thanks! After some work, I got the pin in the connector. Horn works, no cruise... guessing bad switch!?  

Most likely. You did check for ECM wire correct?  

ECM wire? Nope.  

Some Corollas didn't have it. I have seen different lists to check by VIN but they are not always right. Both instruction sheets show how to check . Look at Cruise ECM harness step. I would make sure it's there before replacing any parts.  

Well, I appreciate the help, I am stuck at this: "RELEASE CONNECTOR FROM THE ECM AND REMOVE THE PLASTIC COVER ". Can't get the cover off. At the point where I might break something so will get my friend at work to look at it in the AM. I agree with checking the harness. I tend to ignore simple things when problem solving.  

Nothing wrong with being safe. I would hate to break that connector. I think the release 'lever' has to be fully rotated to almost a vertical position. Just keep being patient and careful.  

I got the connector off, just cant get the plastic cover off... My boss also has a Mercedes shop, so will get them to look at it. I am sure it is a simple thing I just can't figure out. Always better to wait than break something.  

Sure looks like it's missing.  

Yup. Just my luck. LOL  

If you mean running the wire through the firewall there is a grommet to the left of the brake booster (when looking from front of car ). My car already had a wire harness running through it but also 2 smaller holes in it. I ran some wires through one of these holes. You can take a metal coat hangar (or something similar) cut the 'hook' part off, then straighten it out. Gently push the end through the grommet. Check from inside to make sure there are no issues, them tape the ecm wire to it. It might be easier to pull it out to do it. Push through the grommet to get wire through and untape it and remove the hangar. Don't go crazy with the tape. I learned this years ago doing car alarms and stereos. The key is be careful and gentle doing it. If it doesn't feel right back off and try again, don't get frustrated and get all macho man and jam it through.  

Thanks, I had issues with it... Pretty sure I found out where it plugs into in the steering column, no luck with the wire, got frustrated, and stopped before I broke anything... Got part of it done anyway.  

Not sure but I think I would leave it as it is since there is a wire there.  

Well, no luck. Got the wire from the ECM plugged in, retention clip back, started the car, no cruise. Just my dang luck. Any way to test a switch? Or possibly this car needs the cruise switch with the extra ground wire?  

No idea how to test the switch. I had my first one go bad but it still turned the cruise light on. Both switches I installed only had 2 wires to the cruise switch.  

Well, it was under $20, so will probably try another one. Easiest part to replace.. Got one ordered.  

True. Any good friends have a Toyota? Could try a quick swap out.  

Would be a good idea. Part is under $20, so I ordered another. Should eliminate one issue anyway. Don't think even with my luck I would get two bad switches...  

Well, seems I am not essential Tuesday, but I told my boss the cruise did not work, and he said bring it by and see if it is throwing any codes.. Doh, did not think of that! In addition to where I work, my boss has an import car repair shop. So, will see if that answers any questions.  

Well, still no luck. I tried the new cruise switch, still does not work. Wire is run from ECM to the proper plug, I am lost. The only thing I can think of is the ground wire for the horn is not connected anymore. It was connected to a plug that goes where the cruise plugs in. I tried running a wire to the correct pin on the cruise plug, no horn no cruise. They did check it on the computer, said something about cruise not available on this ECM?? Not sure if that was just because it is not turned on or what.  

Damn, I really thought running the wire to the ECM was all that was needed. Can't think of anything else.  

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Cruise Control would not set

By Roy124, November 15, 2021 in Corolla & Corolla Cross Club

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Corolla 2020, cruise control would not set yesterday.  Radar was fine and the speed limiter function worked. 

I thought a reboot might work.  Set off today and indeed the CC worked as expected. 

I don't know if it needed a long period power off or whether a simple power off/on would have worked. 

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Share on other sites, bernard foy.

1 hour ago, Roy124 said: Corolla 2020, cruise control would not set yesterday.  Radar was fine and the speed limiter function worked.  I thought a reboot might work.  Set off today and indeed the CC worked as expected.  I don't know if it needed a long period power off or whether a simple power off/on would have worked. 

It’s easy to confuse the setting up of the cruise control and the speed limit control, have another wee look at the handbook and try again 

Oh Bernard, ye of little faith.  I think I know how it works. 

My ACC switched itself off today after about 10 minutes of driving.  Message said camera/radar not available.  Outside temp 10 degrees, no misting on windscreen, nothing obscuring screen on the outside.  The warning light went out after about 5 minutes and the ACC system was again available with no further problem.  A similar thing happened last week when the ACC made itself unavailable during a journey and reset after a restart.  Anyone else experiencing periodic dropout of ACC?  

Rambler that sounds plausible.  I did a round trip at 4pm, ACC worked down but when we started the return leg is was probably directly into a low Sun.  After its initial failure I probably didn't try again. 

The camera would have been blinded and might be an essential component for ACC. 

17 hours ago, Roy124 said: Rambler that sounds plausible.  I did a round trip at 4pm, ACC worked down but when we started the return leg is was probably directly into a low Sun.  After its initial failure I probably didn't try again.  The camera would have been blinded and might be an essential component for ACC. 

The following information come from a guy in Texas ( 19AvHyXL on the Toyota Nation Forum ) and goes into great detail about potential causes:

Radar Cruise Control Unavailable Clean Sensor: - Millimeter wave radar sensor assembly becomes dirty Radar Cruise Control Unavailable:

• Millimeter wave radar sensor assembly sensitivity reduced because of bad weather such as rain, fog, snow, or sandstorm
• Brake control by the dynamic radar cruise control system is temporarily unavailable
• The beam axis of the millimeter wave radar sensor assembly is being aligned
• The forward recognition camera is temporarily unavailable
• A system check is being performed after the engine has started

Here's some information on the site about the camera: Forward recognition camera is mounted in the upper center of the windshield glass. The sensor detects vehicles and other objects on the road ahead using the image captured by the built-in monocular camera and determines their distance. With this, the recognition performance and reliability of the dynamic radar cruise control system has been enhanced. FEATURES OF FORWARD RECOGNITION CAMERA (a) The forward recognition camera has characteristics similar to those of human eyes. When the visibility is poor for the driver, the forward recognition camera may not properly detect lane markers or vehicles and objects on the road ahead. (b) Only the objects in the forward recognition camera detection area can be detected. (c) The forward recognition camera has a function to detect foreign matter in the area in front of the forward recognition camera. HINT: The forward recognition camera may not always detect dirt in the area in front of the forward recognition camera. (d) In the following situations, the forward recognition camera may not detect objects such as a preceding vehicle, pedestrians or lane makers: (1) When driving in inclement weather such as heavy rain or snow, dense fog, a sandstorm, etc. (2) When the view of the forward recognition camera is obscured by steam, sand, smoke, water, snow or dust. (3) When an intensely bright light, such as the sun or high beams of an oncoming vehicle shine directly into the forward recognition camera. (4) When the surrounding area is dim, such as at dawn or dusk. (5) When the headlights of the vehicle are turned off at night or in a tunnel. (6) The contrast of the area around the vehicle is poor due to snow, etc. (7) When the ambient temperature is low, the heater is operating with FOOT mode selected. HINT: If the upper area of the windshield glass fogs up, the system may not operate. (e) In the following situations, the forward recognition camera may not detect objects appropriately: (1) When the vehicle is being driven where a sudden change in brightness occurs, such as at the entrance or exit of a tunnel or in the shade. (2) When the forward recognition camera is facing upward or downward due to inclination of the vehicle when overloaded. (3) When the vehicle height is not standard due to modified suspension or non-standard tires. (4) When the windshield glass is covered with water drops, snow, ice, dirt, frost, dust, oil, etc. (5) When the windshield glass is fogged-up. (6) When rain drops, washer fluid, or a wiper blade blocks the forward recognition camera. (7) An object mounted on the Roof Rack is obstructing the area in front of the forward recognition camera. (f) The front camera system may not operate properly in any of the following conditions: (1) The forward recognition camera is misaligned or damaged due to a strong impact being applied to the camera or the area around it. (2) The cabin temperature is extremely high. (3) The cabin temperature is extremely low. (4) Immediately after the engine is started.

Rambler, thank you, that ticks several boxes in particular the low winter sun and dusk and dirt. 

Also confirmation that the system is multi sensor.  If you think about it, stationary road furniture could cause a radar system to stop the car dead.  The camera is necessary to aid discrimination. 

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06 Corolla cruise control not working

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We have a 2006 Toyota Corolla Auto trans. that the cruise control doesn't work on. We've had it about 1.5 years and it has never worked in that time. It has a factory cruise control switch on it but when you try to use it not even the light on the dash comes on. It does have a poorly installed remote start system installed on it, that doesn't work right most of the time, and I assume it serves a big part in this problem. Where do I start on this issue? What wires should be checked? thabks for any help you can offer.  

i just bought a new switch on rock auto and it worked.  

#1 - check for blown fuses. I forget if the little cruise control stalk gets 12v separately. #2 - definitely check on where the remote start clips into your wiring. They probably used scotch-lock connectors to splice into your wiring, those can become loose over time or can create small arcing over time. It is better to splice them properly, either using butt splices or the crimp-tops unless it is really impossible to get to. #3 - you can check on the cruise control switch itself, pop the airbag off (2 screws underneath sides of horn/wheel), make sure that connection is good and that the switch itself actually works. If the cruise switch is dead or unplugged.... well "yep, there's your problem right there" (insert southern drawl here)  

Did you check the fuses? Check 22, 23, 26, 33. http://archer.uerev.com/misc/car/fuses.pdf Do all of your brake lights work, even the one in the rear window? Make sure the brake fluid level isnt low, and this may sound dumb, but make sure the emergency brake is not engaged. Also, check the switch up above the break pedal, which disables the cruise control, maybe that switch is unplugged or bent or damaged. Does the light come on and stay on like normal, or does it flash?  

I have a manual Tranny, the Cruise control light comes on but the cruise control never latches, where should I start to look?  

Be sure to check the clutch switch cushion (Toyota part # 90541-06036). This is a little rubber wafer about the size of a dime, the thickness of a nickle, and has a short barbed stem on the back side of it. Where the clutch switch strikes home when the clutch is not pushed in, there is a small hole for the barbed stem of the cushion and without it's presence, the switch has nothing to press against. The switch stem or button will go through this small hole, tricking the cruise control system into thinking that the driver has the clutch pressed in, there for not engaging. This is a switch up above the pedal, not the starter safety switch mounted on the floor.  

The Computer.  

zythr, What do you mean the computer? You mean I need to R&R the computer or wire something into it, or wht?  

I meant check out the computer since the computer controls the cruise control, thanks to the dive by wire system.  

How do I do that? Am I looking for a code or something?  

Bring it to the dealer, or better yet, call ahead with your VIN and find out if the ECU recall was ever done on the car. If not, schedule an appointment to bring it in to have that done and mention that your cruise has been inoperable so they can ensure that it is working when they give the car back to you. You really can't (and shouldn't) mess with the computer yourself without the right equipment and knowing what you're doing. Also, to the OP, it was suggested to you to check behind the airbag for any faulty wiring. Be sure to disconnect the connectors for both terminals of the battery and let it sit for at least 2 minutes to be sure the SRS system has deactivated. Airbags aren't cheap to replace, and you don't want to accidentally deploy them.  

This post has been deleted

hardtopte72 said: The cruise control uses its own separate ECU. It sounds like a bad switch is your problem but you should make sure you are getting power to the switch. Click to expand...

Any blown fuses?  

What about the stop lamps? If one of those were burnt out, will that trick the computer into thinking the brake pedal is depressed?  

Perhaps but the OP claimed it's been like this for a year and a half. I kind of assumed that if there was an issue with the brake lights then the OP would have noticed by now... And no.. having one or all burnt out wouldn't have that effect.. unless they were all burnt out AND the brake light switch was shorted at the same time...  

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