best month to visit outer hebrides

When to visit the Outer Hebrides

When to visit.

The islands on the edge of the British Isles offer great extremes – not only of interest throughout the year but also of weather. Late April to the end of June is probably the best time to visit the Outer Hebrides . The days quickly become much longer – although you are some way south of the midnight sun, it never gets completely dark in mid June – and wildlife, on a mission to breed and rear young, is at its richest.

April can often be a fine month for weather. A ridge of high pressure driven by anticyclones is a recognised, if not consistent, phenomenon across the islands at the end of May and the start of June.

July and August herald the striking spectacle of carpets of wild flowers along the grasslands, known as the machair, along the west coast. Summer also brings many outdoor events, such as Gaelic singing festivals, agricultural shows and local versions of Highland games. It can be hard to get accommodation at short notice during the summer holidays (Scotland’s school holidays run from the start of July to mid August), and there is even more pressure on car rental, with prices to match.

Autumn triggers a mass shift in the wildlife of the islands, with birds either migrating south or fleeing the approaching Arctic winter. The dark days of winter are not for the faint-hearted but bring a sporting chance of seeing the northern lights and are a superb time to see hardy wildlife toughing things out. At this season, time your visit for a break in the stormy weather and you may witness some of the most extraordinarily wild and battered landscapes you’ll ever see. The low winter sun can also show off the distinctively corrugated appearance of undulating moors and age-old farming furrows.

February and March are the prime time to witness the territorial behaviour of golden eagles, which pair-bond at this time, soaring together and locking talons in a breathtaking display. For walkers and cyclists, the same opportunities and guidance that are relevant elsewhere in the UK apply here: check the weather whatever the season, and acknowledge that a good day out in winter can be as wonderful as anything in summer.

The Outer Hebrides are regularly exposed to the extremes of wind and rain but – relatively speaking – enjoy a mild climate, with frosts rare.

Many places where you stay will helpfully print out the weather forecast for you to peruse over breakfast: it’s not uncommon for such forecasts to predict winds to be ‘minimum 2mph, maximum 58mph’. Not only can you experience all four seasons in one day here; stand on a headland in sunshine watching hail across the sea, and it can feel as though you can experience them all at once.

In Stornoway, winter temperatures average 7°C by day and lows of 1.8°C at night; spring time temperatures climb to 9.9°C in the afternoon with overnight lows of 3.8°C. Summer’s average high temperatures are 15.2°C, though they can reach the mid-20s°C any time between April and September, with lows of 9.3°C. Come autumn, temperatures typically drop to 11.5°C during the day and lows of 6°C.

Rainfall averages 46.2 inches (1,173mm), and Harris and Lewis – with the exception of Ness – have had significantly higher rainfall over the past 30 years than the southern islands; they are also wetter than most places on the mainland, with the exception of the western Highlands, the Lake District and Snowdonia.

On average, there are 1,234 hours of sunshine per year: Stornoway sees just 50 minutes sunlight per day in December. On Midsummer’s Day the islands enjoy 18 1/4 hours of daylight, the sun rising at 04.20 and setting at 22.35, though the nautical twilight continues all night, so it doesn’t ever really get pitch black.

More information

Discover more about the Outer Hebrides in our comprehensive guide :

Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Home > Blog > Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Picture pristine white sand beaches, mystical stone monuments, quiet roads through lochs and inlets, and wild waves crashing on a lighthouse. A colony of inquisitive puffins, distant ferries sailing by, and peaceful crofts and farmland with plentiful sheep. An icy cold wind reminds you that you’re on the far edge of Scotland. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides.

Absolute Escapes are award-winning specialists in self-drive holidays in Scotland , and we love the opportunity to use our knowledge and experience to design the perfect, bespoke holiday for our clients.

The Outer Hebrides is a destination close to our hearts and we’re delighted to share a bit of our first-hand knowledge. Read on to find out all you’ve ever wanted to know about visiting Scotland’s spectacular western islands.

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General FAQs:

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

What is the history of the outer hebrides, what’s the weather like in the outer hebrides, when is the best time to visit the outer hebrides, what’s the largest island in the outer hebrides.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides:

Do ferries sail to the Outer Hebrides?

Are there flights to the outer hebrides, how do i get from edinburgh or glasgow to the outer hebrides, how do i get from london to the outer hebrides.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides:

What kind of accommodation is in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there luxury hotels in the outer hebrides, what are the best places to stay in the outer hebrides.

Touring the Outer Hebrides:

What are the best things to do in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there good walking opportunities in the outer hebrides, where are the best beaches in the outer hebrides, what are the best boat trips in the outer hebrides, how do i visit st kilda, are there escorted tours of the outer hebrides, are there midges in the outer hebrides, how do i book a holiday to the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, are a chain of remote islands located off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The main islands that form this archipelago include Lewis and Harris (two ‘islands’ connected by land), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. However, there are as many as ten more islands connected or attached to the main islands!

Tiny islands such as Berneray and Vatersay act as a link in the chain and are equally worth exploring, despite their small size.

The Outer Hebrides have been inhabited since Mesolithic times, and there is a range of fascinating prehistoric archaeological sites to discover. The most famous of these is the ancient Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, which resembles its better-known younger cousin Stonehenge in England.

Also on Lewis you’ll find Dun Carloway – one of the best-preserved brochs in the country.

In addition to Neolithic stone structures, there are many other historic sites and interesting archaeological finds that reveal the fascinating history of the islands, from Medieval churches to mummy remains in the Cladh Hallan Roundhouses!

Celtic roots run deep within these island communities and Gaelic is an important aspect of life in the Outer Hebrides. Islanders are proud of their Celtic heritage, and this is reflected in the rich arts and music culture that stems from the islands.

Gaelic is still widely spoken and popular crafts such as Harris Tweed and Celtic jewellery are still handmade using traditional methods.

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With their soft white sand and clear turquoise waters, picture-postcard images of beaches in the Outer Hebrides might transport you to the Caribbean. However, you are far from the Caribbean warmth!

The weather in the Outer Hebrides is much the same as in the rest of the west coast of Scotland – a bit chilly, a bit windy, and maybe a little wet at times.

While lovely sunny days do exist, it is always worth being prepared to face the elements. A light waterproof jacket, boots and layers are your best companion on an island-hopping adventure .

Although, make sure you don’t forget your swimming costume (or wetsuit perhaps!).

The Outer Hebrides are a very popular destination with limited accommodation on offer, so it’s always worth booking well in advance.

High summer months such as July and August tend to be the busiest, while May, June and September are great alternatives when the weather might be drier.

Summer days in the Outer Hebrides are long, giving you more opportunities to make the most of your trip and enjoy all that the islands have to offer.

Lewis & Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the population lives. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and commercial centre of the islands, home to approximately 8,000 people.

If you have limited time to visit the islands, then Stornoway or Tarbert in Harris might the best bases for you to explore much of the islands and do a couple of day trips.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

There are various ways to travel to the Outer Hebrides, but if you wish to explore the whole chain, then multiple ferry rides are involved.

From the Scottish mainland, you can travel to Barra from Oban, to North Uist from Skye (which is connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge), or to Stornoway from Ullapool.

While there are daily sailings available, these are limited to once or twice per day, so booking in advance is important if you are taking a car on the ferry. You can pre-book your journeys on the Calmac website.

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Flying to the Outer Hebrides is also a tempting option as the flight to the Isle of Barra is an incredibly scenic and exciting trip! Barra Airport is unique as it is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach.

Direct flights are available from most Scottish airports to Barra, Lewis and Benbecula. Trips are typically under an hour, so travelling by air can be quicker than travelling by ferry, but often more expensive and less environmentally friendly. You can check flight times and plan your journey on the Skyscanner website.

From Edinburgh or Glasgow, you can either fly to Stornoway and/or Barra. While this might save you some time, the drive to the west coast of Scotland is spectacular and, in our opinion, unmissable.

We would recommend driving to Oban, following the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and traversing across wild Argyll towards the coast.

If you prefer to start your island-hopping itinerary from the north to travel south, then travelling north across the Scottish Highlands to Ullapool will take a little longer. In this case, we would suggest splitting your journey by spending an additional night en route.

As there are no direct flights from London to the Outer Hebrides, we would recommend travelling to Edinburgh or Glasgow and making your way to the Outer Hebrides from there.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides

There is a range of lovely places to stay dotted all around in the Outer Hebrides. For our self-drive packages, we will normally try to secure accommodation in a larger town or village with various amenities, such and Stornoway or Tarbert.

However, there are some special places to stay in more remote areas, which are absolutely worth a short drive.

Proper luxury in the form of a 5* hotel is not available in the Outer Hebrides, but there are some truly spectacular and unique places to stay.

Scarista House in Harris is a very popular destination – an elegant yet rustic B&B and fine dining restaurant with lovely rooms featuring spectacular views towards the sea and nearby hills.

Another wonderful place to stay is Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis. Owners Sue and Tom offer a warm welcome to their beautiful 5* guest house which offers panoramic sea views, comfortable rooms, and some of the best local produce from the islands.

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Scarista House and Broad Bay House are undoubtedly two of the best places to stay on the islands. However, we also work with a range of accommodation in our Budget and Standard categories, which offer good food, comfort and an all-round unforgettable experience.

For example, the small Heathbank Hotel in Barra has a great restaurant featuring some of the freshest seafood in the country, while Beul Na Mara in Harris sits near the specular Luskentyre Beach and offers clean, bright and airy rooms.

Langass Lodge in North Uist is one of our top choices of Premium accommodation and another great place to stay; this former hunting lodge overlooks Loch Eport and its kitchen serves modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh island ingredients.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Langass Lodge (@langasslodgehotel)

Touring the Outer Hebrides

Have we mentioned heading to the beach yet? In addition to the many stunning beaches on the islands, there are plenty of other great activities on offer.

History fans will enjoy exploring Lews Castle in Stornoway; a Victorian Baronial mansion, or visiting the brooding ruins of Kisimul Castle in Barra.

The 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones are a must for all visitors to Lewis (including Outlander fans!), while Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a short drive from Callanish. Here, you can learn about traditional Hebridean blackhouses with their drystone walls and picturesque thatched roofs.

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For those interested in wildlife and the outdoors, there are endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and sea kayaking on the islands. The Hebridean Whale Trail follows the best places in the Outer Hebrides to spot cetaceans, such as porpoises, orca whales, minke whales, as well as basking sharks and dolphins.

The Bird of Prey Trail spans the whole island chain and features location markers for the best places to see birds of prey, such as golden eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owls.

Inspired by stunning scenery and rich Celtic heritage, the Outer Hebrides are also home to some of the finest arts and crafts in the world. If it is a cultural experience that you are seeking, visit Sgeulachd a Chlò Mhòir – the official ‘Story Room’ of the Harris Tweed Authority. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool fabric, exclusively handwoven in the Western Isles and you can find it in the many craft and gift shops in the islands. The art centres An Lanntair in Stornoway and Taigh Chearsabhagh in North Uist also host inspiring exhibitions, theatre and music events.

For those interested in whisky and gin, you might want to pop by the Isle of Harris Distillery which sits on the shores of East Loch Tarbert. While their whisky is still maturing, you can buy a bottle of the lovely Isle of Harris Gin, infused with sugar kelp.

Yes! The Outer Hebrides are a walker’s paradise, with magnificent beaches peacefully stretching for miles on end. The Hebridean Way is a long-distance route spanning nearly 200 miles across 10 breathtaking islands. It is very popular not only with walkers but with cyclists too.

For hillwalkers, there are also some mountain ranges in Harris. To the north, there is the most extensive and highest range of mountains in the Outer Hebrides—a wild conglomeration of ridges, glens and summits. Clisham (or An Cliseam) is the highest mountain at 799 metres high and it is the archipelago’s only Corbett. Further hillwalking opportunities are available in Lewis and South Uist.

If you are interested in learning more, you might wish to purchase a Pocket Mountains guidebook for walking on the islands. We would also recommend visiting our friends at Walkhighlands for inspiration on trickier routes and to help you plan your walks.

The spectacular coastline in the Western Isles is one of the main reasons the archipelago is such as popular tourist destination. The Outer Hebrides have a restorative quality, with endless quiet beaches, an invigorating sea breeze, and the relaxing scent of machair and wildflowers.

Often rated as some of the top beaches in the world, Luskentyre Beach in Harris and Uig Sands in Lewis are undoubtedly two of the most spectacular beaches on the islands.

There are many other tranquil beaches to explore such as Vatersay Bay; the small island of Vatersay is linked by causeway to Barra and boats a stunning sandy bay and a wide expanse of dunes.

Eriskay is another small island connected to South Uist by a causeway and it is host to the beautiful Coileag a’ Prionnnsa beach.

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As well as the trip to St Kilda (see below), Seatrek , which is based in Lewis, offers unforgettable boat trips around the Uig coastline.

Kilda Cruises also offer shorter trips off the coast of Harris, including fishing trips and excursions to the Shiant Isles.

St Kilda is one of the most unique and spectacular places one could visit in the world. This uninhabited isolated archipelago with rugged sea cliffs and impressive sea-stacks towers out of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

It is home to nearly one million seabirds, including the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the UK. It is also one of the only dual UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. It is remote. It is wild. It is breathtaking.

A trip to St Kilda is certainly worth it, but not easy. It takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours to sail to St Kilda each way from the Isle of Harris. Boat trips are available from Leverburgh with Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris , and booking well in advance is essential.

As these trips are often disrupted by the weather, our recommendation would be to spend at least three nights in Harris and book the trip on day two, so if the trip needs to be rescheduled, you can try again the following day.

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Our friends at Rabbie’s Tours offer escorted tours to the Outer Hebrides departing from Edinburgh and Inverness. Rabbie’s are an award-winning company whose expert guides truly take you beyond the guidebooks to explore the stunning scenery and extraordinary history of this country.

Explore the islands in a modern, air-conditioned mini-coach touring with a maximum of 16 passengers. Please get in touch if you are interested in an escorted tour. Rabbie’s will do the guiding, and with our expert knowledge, we’ll make sure you stay in the best accommodation on each island.

Midges are small biting insects and they can indeed be a pest. The good news is that they tend to not be too much of a problem in the Outer Hebrides as there is usually a bit of a sea breeze to keep them away.

Midges like cool, overcast days, and don’t like direct sunlight or wind. You might want to “smidge-up” if you are spending some time on the west coast upon your return from the islands though, particularly during high summer. Smidge is available almost everywhere in the Scottish Highlands, but we also recommend Avon Skin So Soft which is incredibly effective.

Our Hebridean Island Hopping itinerary is one of our most popular self-drive holidays in Scotland, but we can also create a bespoke itinerary based on your interests and requirements.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our expert team if we can help you plan an unforgettable Hebridean escape!

Katia Fernandez Mayo

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The Best Time to Visit Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom for Weather, Safety, & Tourism

The best times to visit Outer Hebrides for ideal weather are

June 11th to September 16th

based on average temperature and humidity from NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Read below for more weather and travel details.

Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

Temperature.

• Perceived Temperature
• Rain and snow
• Humidity and wind
• The busiest and least popular months
• Overall travel experience by time of year

Other Outer Hebrides Travel Info

Weather in outer hebrides.

Average temperatures in Outer Hebrides vary somewhat. Considering humidity, temperatures feel cold for most of the year with a chance of rain or snow throughout most of the year. The area is less temperate than some — in the 14th percentile for pleasant weather — compared to tourist destinations worldwide. Weeks with ideal weather are listed above . If you’re looking for the very warmest time to visit Outer Hebrides, the hottest months are July, August, and then September. See average monthly temperatures below. The warmest time of year is generally late July where highs are regularly around 62.7°F (17.1°C) with temperatures rarely dropping below 53.4°F (11.9°C) at night.

Outer Hebrides Temperatures (Fahrenheit)

Outer hebrides temperatures (celsius), “feels-like” temperatures.

The way we experience weather isn’t all about temperature. Higher temperatures affect us much more at higher humidity, and colder temperatures feel piercing with high winds. Our perceived temperatures factor in humidity and wind chill to better represent how hot or cold the day feels to a person.

Outer Hebrides Perceived Temperature (F)

Outer hebrides perceived temperature (c), average outer hebrides temperatures by month.

Daily highs (averaged for the month) usually give the best indication of the weather. A significantly lower mean and low generally just means it gets colder at night.

Show Fahrenheit

Show celsius, precipitation (rain or snow).

If dry weather is what you’re after, the months with the lowest chance of significant precipitation in Outer Hebrides are June, April, and then July. Note that we define “significant precipitation” as .1 inches or more in this section. The lowest chance of rain or snow occurs around early to mid June. For example, on the week of June 11th there is 1 day of precipitation on average. By contrast, it’s most likely to rain or snow in early December with an average of 5 days of significant precipitation the week of December 3rd.

Chance of Precipitation

The graph below shows the % chance of rainy and snowy days in Outer Hebrides.

Snow on the Ground

The graph below shows the average snow on the ground in Outer Hebrides (in).

Average Rain and Snow by Month

Show inches, show centimeters, humidity and wind.

Outer Hebrides has some extremely humid months, and high humidity throughout the year. The least humid month is May (73.1% relative humidity), and the most humid month is August (82%).

Wind in Outer Hebrides is usually stronger than many places . The windiest month is January, followed by December and March. January’s average wind speed of around 18 knots (20.7 MPH or 33.3 KPH) is considered “a fresh breeze.” Maximum sustained winds (the highest speed for the day lasting more than a few moments) are at their highest in early to mid January where average top sustained speeds reach 28.3 knots, which is considered high wind or moderate gale winds.

Relative Humidity (%)

The graph below shows the average % humidity by month in Outer Hebrides.

The graph below shows wind speed (max and average) in knots.

Average Wind Speeds

Show wind speeds.

All wind speeds are in knots. 1 knot = 1.15 MPH or 1.85 KPH.

Show Relative Humidity by Month

Is it safe to travel to outer hebrides.

Our best data indicates this area is somewhat safe. As of Dec 04, 2023 there are travel warnings for the United Kingdom; exercise a high degree of caution. Check this page for any recent changes or regions to avoid: Travel Advice and Advisories . This advisory was last updated on Nov 27, 2023.

The Busiest and Least Crowded Months

The busiest month for tourism in Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom is July, followed by January and August. Prices for hotels and flights will be most expensive during these months, though you can save if you purchase well in advance. Tourists are unlikely to visit Outer Hebrides in April. Those willing to visit at these times will likely find it the least expensive month.

Estimated Tourism by Month

Most popular months to visit, overall outer hebrides travel experience by season, spring (march through may).

Humidity and temperatures combine to make this season feel moderately cold. Highs range from 57.5°F (14.2°C) and 46.9°F (8.3°C) with warmer temperatures in the later months. Rain is somewhat common with 8 to 11 days of significant precipitation per month. Spring is the slowest for tourism, which makes it a good time for those looking for deals.

Summer (June through August)

The middle-year months have comfortably cool weather with high temperatures that are brisk. These months see the least precipitation with 7 to 12 days of precipitation per month. June – August is the busiest season for tourism in Outer Hebrides, so lodging and other accommodations may cost more than usual.

Fall (September through November)

Fall daily highs range from 59.6°F (15.3°C) and 46.5°F (8.1°C), which will feel chilly given the humidity and wind. It rains or snows a great amount: 10 to 16 days per month. Tourism is fairly slow during these months due to the weather, so hotels may be lower priced.

Winter (December through February)

Weather is too cold this time of year in Outer Hebrides to be enjoyable for warm weather travelers. The average high during this season is between 46.9°F (8.3°C) and 44.8°F (7.1°C). On average, it rains or snows a very great amount: 11 to 18 times per month. These times of year are the second busiest with tourists.

Best Times to Travel › the United Kingdom › Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom

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The ultimate guide to Scotland's magical Hebrides islands

Aug 10, 2022 • 12 min read

Crossing a river near the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye © Leon Harris/Getty Images

An emerald shore receding behind, a sea breeze in your face, a dolphin surfing the bow wave as escort. The magic begins as soon as you board the ferry from Scotland’s rugged west coast and head for Scotland 's Hebrides islands. 

This scattering of more than 50 inhabited and uninhabited islands, islets and skerries is like a world unto itself – thrillingly isolated, wind-battered, sea-smashed  and with a beauty that is off the charts. From the ragged mountains of Skye to the snow-white beaches and cerulean seas of Harris, the mysterious standing stones of Lewis to the whisky heaven of Islay, these islands lift spirits in every possible sense of the expression.

Some of Europe’s most alluring beaches are on these Scottish islands (but you’ll need to be made of stern stuff to brave the waters and don’t expect to return home with a tan), while remoteness and underpopulation mean that wildlife displaced elsewhere still flourishes. You’re almost guaranteed to see seals and whales; otters, dolphins and porpoises are also regularly sighted.  Seabirds – gannets, fulmars, puffins and more – thrive on jagged coasts, and geese of various species often outnumber residents. That very same isolation – Edinburgh seems another world, and London is outside the Hebridean solar system – means that life has traditionally been a tough, self-reliant affair.

Visiting the Hebrides is about being outdoors. Throughout the islands, there’s great walking, from pacing the sublime sandy beaches of Barra, Tiree or Harris to tackling the rugged challenge of Skye’s Cuillin Hills or the Paps on Jura. To get out on the water, sea-kayaking is a great option on Barra, Skye and other islands. Bicycles are easily taken on ferries, though high winds can make for tough pedaling at times. So lace up the hiking boots, grab binoculars or a paddle, fortify yourself with a local dram and throw yourself into the wilds no matter what hand the weather deals you.

Visit Islay & Jura to try some of the world’s best whiskies

Mellow, relaxed and so friendly that even passing strangers stop for a wee chat, Islay (‘eye-la’) is the home of several of the world’s best whiskies – many famed for their peatiness – whose names reverberate on the tongue like a pantheon of Celtic deities: Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain, Kilchoman, Bruichladdich, Bowmore. 

Wilder and more rugged, the adjacent island of Jura likes long, dark and low off the coast like a Viking longship and provides a tremendous hit of scenery, with its brooding twin hills, the Paps, providing habitat for an enormous deer population. The ferocious Corryvreckan whirlpool churns away at the north of the island, near where George Orwell wrote 1984. The author summed it up neatly as “a very un-get-at-able place”. 

What to do 

Top billing goes to the distilleries on Islay and Jura, which have whisky enthusiasts in raptures, among them Ardbeg , with its magnificent 10-year-old, Bowmore , which malts its own barley, Laphroig, where you can taste famously peaty whiskies, and the Isle of Jura Distillery . All welcome visitors and run tours and tastings. More expensive tours throw in more malts and take you further behind the scenes. It’s worth booking in advance online or by calling ahead.

Cracking seafood (langoustines and crabs fresh off the boat, hand-dived scallops, and tasty mussels and oysters), days spent roaming machair-fringed bays lapped by turquoise seas and brilliant wildlife watching (keep an eye out for grey seals, white-tailed sea eagles, barnacle geese and otters) ramp up Islay’s appeal beyond the dram. Hop on Islay Sea Safaris to spot all of Islay and Jura’s distilleries in a single day. Their customized tours from Port Ellen also include birdwatching trips and visits to Jura’s remote west coast and the Corryvreckan whirlpool, one of the most notorious tidal whirlpools in the world.

Where to stay

Accommodation is like gold dust on Islay and Jura for the number of visitors they receive in spring and summer, so always book ahead. Get the best of Islay seafood and whisky, as well as seriously comfortable Victorian accommodation, at the Port Charlotte Hotel , or camp or stay in a self-catering cottage at Kintra Farm amid the dunes at the southern end of Laggan Bay. 

How to get to Islay 

Loganair flies up to three times daily from Glasgow to Islay, and Hebridean Air Services operates twice daily on Thursday from Oban to Colonsay and Islay. There are two ferry terminals: Port Askaig on the east coast, and Port Ellen in the south. Ferries are run by CalMac .

A car ferry shuttles between Port Askaig on Islay and Feolin on Jura. There is no direct car-ferry connection to the mainland. From April to September, Jura Passenger Ferry runs from Tayvallich on the mainland to Craighouse on Jura.

Islay & Jura might be for you if: You’re a fan of whisky and wilderness.

Islay & Jura might not be for you if: You’re looking for serious mountains.

Find mountain drama and holy marvels on Mull and Iona

All of the islands are ravishing, but Mull really hits the scenic high notes, with wild mountains and spectacularly eroded dropping abruptly to startlingly turquoise waters. From great crags of black basalt to blindingly white sands, this is an island for slowing the pace for a spell and wholeheartedly embracing nature. 

Birds of prey glide above the highest peaks, otters can be spotted along the shore, while the west coast is good for watching whales, dolphins and porpoises. You’ll for sure see seals, too, both the Atlantic gray (look for its Roman nose) and the common seal (recognizable by its doggy face). 

What do do 

Mull’s characterful main town, Tobermory, is an instant heart-stealer, with its row of colorful houses, Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust spotlighting local marine life, bijou distillery , excellent restaurant serving sustainable seafood and good old-fashioned pub , near the pier on the harbourfront. Even here, the focus is on the wild outdoors, with hillwalking, whale-watching excursions and boat trips to weird Fingal’s Cave, a 60m-deep chasm of hexagonal pillars, on uninhabited Staffa .

If you’re up for more, you could clamber up 966m Ben More , Mull’s highest peak, and the only island Munro outside Skye, for stirring views out across the islands. Or grab your hiking boots for the adventurous eight-mile return stomp to the phenomenal rock formations of the Carsaig Arches at Malcom’s Point. 

A five-minute ferry ride from Fionnphort on Mull, the holy island of Iona weaves its own spell. St Columba sailed from Ireland and landed here in 563, establishing a monastic community with the aim of Christianizing Scotland. Its scriptorium produced some of the most important illuminated manuscripts of the period, including, allegedly, the Book of Kells now in Dublin’s Trinity College. Dotted with majestic stone crosses and monastic ruins, this emerald teardrop of an island is now a place for solitude seekers and pilgrims. The heavily restored abbey is the island’s spiritual heart.

Where to stay 

There’s plenty of charming places to stay on Mull, from back-to-nature campsites to B&Bs and luxurious small hotels. For something fancier, Highland Cottage in Tobermory is enchantingly intimate, with antique-filled rooms and a hearty welcome. On a working sheep croft at Iona’s northern tip, the Green Shed is lovely, with eco-friendly self-catering digs decorated with flair and upcycled furniture and riveting sea views.  

How to get to Mull

CalMac has three car ferries that link Mull with the mainland: Oban to Craignure (the busiest route), Lochaline to Fishnish and  Tobermory to Kilchoan.

Mull & Iona might be for you if: You love wildlife, mountains and ancient abbeys.

Mull & Iona might not be for you if: You want to just rock up without booking ahead.

Getting a natural high on the Isle of Skye

The Vikings called it sky-a, or ‘cloud island’, in old Norse, alluding to the clouds that often hovered above the menacing Cuillin Hills, which entice hardcore hikers and mountaineers with some of Scotland’s gnarliest peaks and dizzying views. But even seen from ground level, the Isle of Skye is just stunning. An ethereal light squeezes through the clouds and bathes a rugged splendor that stretches across heather-brushed moors, glittering lochs and sea cliffs razoring above pounding surf. 

Skye delivers the kind of big wilderness for which Scotland is so famous – and all neatly packaged into one island. But it’s no secret, so dodge the biggest crowds (and midges) by visiting in spring or autumn. That said, most visitors stick to Portree, Dunvegan and Trotternish – you can always find peace if you’re willing to venture further afield.

Bring your boots. Hikers are in their element with some of the roughest, toughest and most soul-stirring trails in the country. Ease yourself in gently on short hikes through the remote, boggy, loch-speckled, strikingly beautiful glens of Strath Mor, keeping an eye out for red deer and otters, or on moderately challenging ramble to the Old Man of Storr , an iconic pinnacle of crumbling basalt on the Trotternish Peninsula. Or throw yourself in at the deep end with a pulse-racing, nerve-jangling five-mile trek up 992m Sgùrr Alasdair, the loftiest peak in the Black Cuillin, where dark, fierce fangs of rock punch above the sea. Its summit has sensational views all the way to the isles of Rhum, Eigg and Canna. For rock climbers, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pinn) is the Holy Grail. You might need a guide .

The secluded coves and sparkling sea lochs indenting Skye’s coast are best seen with your bum in a kayak and a paddle in your hand, some say. Whitewave Outdoor Centre and Skyak Adventures get you out on the water.

The outdoors is the big draw, for sure, but when the mist descends or the dreich weather blows in, there’s still plenty to do, from castles like mighty Dunvegan on the vast MacLeod Estate to the fascinating Skye Museum of Island Life , zooming in on the island’s crofting heritage, and jolly pubs where you can shelter from the drizzle with a pint.  

Skye is insanely popular and accommodation is therefore plentiful, from camping and glamping to backpacker hostels and high-end hotels. Nevertheless, you should book ahead. Harborside Portree is Skye’s largest and liveliest town, with options ranging from simple, homely B&Bs to the luxe Cuillin Hills Hotel , with broad views out to sea and up to the mountains. 

Housed in the old village school, Skyewalker Hostel in Minginish has a cool mix of rooms, glamping huts and a glass-domed outdoor seating area. 

How to get to Skye

Skye became permanently tethered to the Scottish mainland when the Skye Bridge opened in 1995. The crossing is free. There are buses from Glasgow to Portree and Uig via Crianlarich, Fort William and Kyle of Lochalsh, plus a service from Inverness to Portree. 

Despite the bridge, there are still a couple of ferry links between Skye and the mainland. Ferries also operate from Uig on Skye to the Outer Hebrides. The CalMac ferry between Mallaig and Armadale is very popular on weekends and in July and August. The Glenelg–Skye Ferry runs a tiny vessel (six cars only) on the short Kylerhea to Glenelg crossing.

Skye might be for you if: You are mad about big mountains and hardcore hiking.

Skye might not be for you if: You want to totally escape the crowds.

Give the world the slip in the Outer Hebrides 

When the sun breaks through the clouds on Outer Hebrides (or Western Isles), illuminating the velvet pleats of mountains, bracken-cloaked moors and machair-draped dunes that drop to frost-white sands fizzing into a sea of exquisite turquoise, it’s like witnessing the dawn of creation. Far removed from civilization, there are times you will feel like the last soul on earth here, especially if you come in the hush of spring or autumn. Times when you will forget the century we live in, walking barefoot on mile-long beaches made afresh by the tides, looking for otter footprints, witnessing a fiery sunset after a storm, or foraging for cockles and mussels in rocky bays.

These glorious isles – some just wee specks of rock – are  isolated, windswept, treeless places that have traditionally subsisted on fishing, weaving and livestock, though renewable energy is increasingly big business. You’ll hear the gentle lilt of Scottish Gaelic everywhere here as it’s still a working language.

What to do in the Outer Hebrides

The principal island, its northern half called Lewis and its southern Harris, is a terrific starting point, with out-of-this-world coastal scenery, traditional turf-roofed blackhouses, lonely peat bogs dimpled with lochans and the famous Harris tweed. 

Mountainous and virtually roadless, North Harris is the hiking dream. South Harris by turn beguiles with staggeringly lovely white-sand beaches like Luskentyre and Scarista, swirling into jade waters. They are all the more enchanting for often being deserted.

Heading to the far northern tip of Lewis brings you to the lighthouse-topped Butt of Lewis, battered by the North Atlantic. The hinterland is largely desolate peat moorland, glittering with lochans. The island is littered with mysterious prehistoric sites, most famously the late-Neolithic standing stones of Callanish , weighing in at some four and a half millennia, roughly contemporary with the Great Pyramid of Giza, and Dun Carloway , a 2000-year-old, dry-stone broch.

To the south, the lonely Uist islands are prime nature-watching territory and connected by a causeway, while little Barra offers memorable sea-kayaking and the chance to watch the Glasgow flight land on the beach. 

Where to stay on the Outer Hebrides

Given how remote they are, there’s a surprisingly great assortment of places to stay in the  Outer Hebrides, from basic campsites and hostels to B&Bs, sleek, architect-designed hotels and eco-friendly beach houses. A lot of accommodation swings with the seasons, closing down during the dark, rainy months from October to March. For hostels with a dash of history and incredible views, check out the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust . Or if you fancy staying in a conserved village of traditional blackhouses on the Isle of Lewis, with the crashing Atlantic as your wake-up call, try Gearrannan Holiday Cottages .

How to get to the Outer Hebrides

Loganair flights operate to Stornoway from Edinburgh, Inverness and Glasgow. There are also flights (weekdays only) between Stornoway and Benbecula. There are daily Loganair flights from Glasgow to Barra, and from Monday to Saturday to Benbecula. At Barra, the planes land on the hard-sand beach at low tide, so the schedule depends on the tides. 

There are two or three CalMac ferries a day to Stornoway, one or two a day to Tarbert and Lochmaddy, and one a day to Castlebay and Lochboisdale (always weather permitting – it can get wild out here!).

The Outer Hebrides might be for you if: You love wild scenery, beaches and prehistory.

The Outer Hebrides might not be for you if: You want more action – it’s remote and quiet here.

This article was first published May 20, 2014 and updated Aug 10, 2022.

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Outer Hebrides

An island-by-island guide to Scotland's Outer Hebrides

The outer hebrides archipelago is nothing short of otherworldly – all stone circles, deserted beaches and epic wildlife. there are over 200 islands and islets to explore, but we’ve chosen six world-class spots for you to savour., why explore the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, a 130-mile (209km) island chain also known as the Western Isles, is seriously out there. Physically out there, that is, set across the treacherous Minch strait, west of the Isle of Skye (the next landfall is the Americas), but also spiritually, linguistically, culturally and scenically in a world of their own. 

We’re talking stone circles, a hundred sweeping white sand beaches that rival the Caribbean and hulking mountains where you won’t meet a soul, but you’ll grow closer to yours. Then there’s a culture and heritage alive with everything from torrid tales from the Clearances years through to the global fashion icon of Harris Tweed. And, yes, whisky too – best enjoyed with an impromptu folk music session in the life-affirming local pubs.

Lewis may be joined at the hip with Harris – and together they form the third-largest island in the British Isles after Britain and Ireland – but they are very much two separate places.

Lewis overflows with culture and history, from the recently revamped Lews Castle in the lively capital of Stornoway (home to riotous Scottish folk rock sensation Peat and Diesel), through to one of the best-preserved old crofting villages in Scotland, the thatched roof wonder of Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. 

Nearby vaults one of the nation’s finest brochs (a fortified tower unique to Scotland), Dun Carloway, standing firm against the baleful Atlantic. And so too does the star of the show: Calanais. This remarkable 5,000-year-old stone circle overlooking the ocean was the inspiration for the stone circle in Disney's Brave . This being the Outer Hebrides, there are little-visited prehistoric sites sprinkled in the countryside around too. 

Where to stay

It has to be  Gearrannan Blackhouse Village . Peel back the centuries and connect with Lewis’s historic heart by staying in one of the old blackhouses.

Where to eat 

You won’t forget the views across the famous beach out of the giant windows at the Uig Sands Restaurant – nor the boat-fresh seafood at the special spot where the legendary Lewis Chessmen were uncovered.

        View this post on Instagram                       A post shared by Uig Sands Restaurant (@uigsands)

READ MORE: 10 life-affirming experiences you can only have in Scotland

If it’s beaches you crave, then Harris is for you. The water never quite warms up properly, but there’s nothing like standing on your own beach with mountains at one end, seals at the other. Scarista, Luskentyre or Seilebost are the most famous in this epic landscape forged by some of the oldest rocks in the world (Lewis gneiss), but you’ll have fun finding your own. 

The village of Tarbert makes a good base as it’s home to a  superb shop where you can learn more about Harris Tweed. They sell the genuine article – hand-crafted from wool that’s dyed, spun and then hand-woven on looms in the Outer Hebrides. Look out for the famous orb trademark label. Next door is the modern, purpose-built Isle of Harris Distillery , well known for its gin. Though the first (legal) distillery on Harris will soon be more famous for its whisky as its single malts mature. 

Don’t miss a drive on the ‘Golden Road’, either. Sinewy and surreal, the tarmac single track feels more rollercoaster than road and the local sheep ensure your journey takes three times longer than Google reckons.

The  Sound of Harris is a brace of beautiful 1950s retro-chic lodges with Japanese baths. Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the views of the eponymous sound.

Where to eat

You can ‘only’ enjoy a homemade scone or triple chocolate brownie with your coffee here, but  Skoon is also an art gallery where you can pick up traditional music, as well as an original painting.

READ MORE: Here are more reasons why you should visit the Isle of Harris

North Uist thrills wildlife enthusiasts and is a scenic stunner too, if you swoon at big skies, Atlantic views and beaches. A necklace of white sand graces its entire west coast, with rugged lochs, lochans and sodden moors breaking east. 

Few bird reserves boast as impressive an array of birds as the RSPB’s  Balranald . The corncrake is its most famous resident, nevermind the colourful machair flowers, white-sand beaches and the passing basking sharks. 

The imprint of man is intriguing too. Trinity Temple is an eye-catching 13th-century church and monastery ruin alive with history. Founded by Beathag, daughter of the Norse-Scot warrior Somerled, it has changed over the centuries, but its moody appeal is undimmed. 

It’s also easy to ‘island hop’ as causeways link north to Berneray – with a beach so spectacular the Thai tourist office apparently nicked it for an advert – and Benbecula to the south, with its own stunning strands.

Fans out of Outlander won’t be able to contain their excitement while staying in  Struan Cottage , a traditional whitewashed thatched croft by the beach. 

Grab the local gossip and take the cultural pulse of North Uist at Taigh Chearsabhagh , in the ‘capital’ of Lochmaddy. It’s a café and cultural centre where you can learn more about Gaelic and Hebridean culture.

The rich sprinkling of white-sand beaches that line the entire west coast are reason enough to visit, but the largest of the southern Outer Hebrides will always be associated with one of Scotland’s most famous historical figures, Flora Macdonald. 

After growing up here, she helped Jacobite pretender Bonnie Prince Charlie – at the time Europe’s most wanted man – to evade the British Army Redcoats in the aftermath of The Battle of Culloden in 1746. Check out the simple memorial by the ruin of her blackhouse. 

South Uist’s population of Eriskay ponies don’t care much for history, not when they have wild Loch Druidibeg to roam around. Spread across more than 4,000 acres, this Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) creates an island habitat with its machair stretching on to moorland punctuated with wee lochans. The RSPB reserve here is alive too with everything from corncrakes and graylag geese to golden eagles and peregrine falcons. 

READ MORE: Searching for sharks on Scotland's wild west coast

The  Polochar Inn is a whitewashed dame right on the Atlantic with mind-blowing sunsets. It’s great for stargazing and possibly spotting the Northern Lights too.

Love seafood? Head for the  Orasay Inn and tuck into boat-fresh scallops, crab and lobster.

If you’re short of time and can only visit one island, then this is the one: this multifaceted wee charmer is the Outer Hebrides in miniature. 

The journey is a joy – especially if you fly in from Glasgow and experience the world’s only scheduled flight that lands on a gorgeous white sand beach. Don’t miss garlic cockles culled from the runway. 

The only real village is Castlebay. It tempts with Kisimul Castle, the ancient seat of the Macneils of Barra, whose hulk lies in the bay, just a boat ride away. You can kayak too: Clearwater Paddling shows you that Barra is a world-class sea kayaking destination as you ease along with the seals, otters, eagles, dolphins and even whales. 

READ MORE: 8 reasons to visit Perth, Scotland's oldest new city

The beaches are life-affirming, backed inland by the wildflower-kissed machair and spreading out towards rugged hills and glowering peaks. The view from Sheabhal back towards Skye and the mainland, and closer to the wee isles of Mingulay and Vatersay, is sublime. 

Boat trips from Castlebay leave for uninhabited Mingulay, with its mysterious beachfront abandoned village too.

It’s worth staying at the  Castlebay Hotel just in case the legendary Vatersay Boys are in the bar for an impromptu music session. Book a sea-view room.

The Barra hand-dived king scallop pakora at  Café Kisimul – a top-notch Indian spot with a focus on local ingredients – are out of this world. 

        View this post on Instagram                       A post shared by Cafe Kisimul (@cafekisimul)

Even the mention of mystical St Kilda is enough to get many a Scot misty-eyed. UNESCO are fans too – they awarded it a dual listing on their coveted World Heritage List, for both its natural charms and for human heritage. It lies a whopping 40 miles (64km) west of the main thrust of the Outer Hebrides.

St Kilda is not actually one island, but the only one you’re likely to get to is the main island of Hirta. It was once home to a community that lived life on Main Street in Village Bay with few of the creature comforts we deem essential today and few of the social structures and graces of the mainland. The last residents were only evacuated in 1930, leaving it largely to the one-million-plus birds who call it home in summer. 

Many a sailor fails to get here – any sort of easterly and forget the only real anchorage in Village Bay – but the  fast boats from Skye have a good landing record. You can also join a live-aboard cruise that ventures this far out –  Hebrides Cruises is a great option.

Volunteering to do conservation work with the  NTS means you get to live in this amazing world.

There is a small shop with limited hours. The good news is all picnic spots come with a serious view.

READ MORE: 9 great ways to experience Scotland's first national park

Lead image: Helen Hotson/Alamy

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The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides stretch for 130 miles and look out on their western side to the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on the very edge of Europe, Scotland’s Outer Hebrides offer a striking mix of landscapes. Heather-backed mountains overlook windswept golden sands, with dense areas of peat bog in between. Of the two hundred plus islands that make up the archipelago, only a handful are actually inhabited.

Lewis and Harris form the northernmost island in the Outer Hebrides. Though they are actually part of the same land mass, they are thought of as different islands and each has its own distinctive culture, traditions and heritage.

Lewis in the north is the largest island in the group and its main town of Stornoway is a busy centre of island life. Its natural harbour is a thriving fishing port.  Harris is home to the world-famous Harris Tweed, which must be made on the islands to carry the name. Across a narrow isthmus from the more mountainous North Harris lies South Harris, with its wide beaches of golden sand trimming the Atlantic. 

Find out more about Lewis, Harris and Stornoway

Further south still sit a string of small, flatter islands including North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist and Barra . Here stunning, breezy beaches are mostly bordered by a lower range of hills to the east. Uniquely, one of the beaches on Barra also doubles as a landing strip for flights from the mainland. It’s considered to be the only beach runway in the world to handle scheduled airline services.

Lying west offshore into the Atlantic, the remarkable deserted island of St Kilda is a dual World Heritage Site and a major attraction thanks to its amazing birdlife and fascinating history. The island can only be reached by day boat, which is subject to weather conditions and the permission of its owners, the National Trust for Scotland. 

The Outer Hebrides remain a heartland of Gaelic culture , with the language spoken by over half of the islanders. The Celtic roots of the islands have permeated through to the arts created in this place, with traditional crafts and Celtic music still very much at the heart of Outer Hebridean culture.

The famous Calanais Standing Stone s on the Isle of Lewis are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the islands’ rich historical legacy. Dun Carloway , which is also on Lewis, is an Iron Age broch that stands at nearly seven metres tall and is around 2,000 years old.

Religion has long played an important role on these islands, with churches and church ruins dotted across the landscapes.

The landscapes of the Outer Hebrides makes it ideal for walking and cycling while the superb Atlantic beaches draw surfers from around the globe. Fishing for salmon and trout, as well as sea angling, is also highly popular. The clear Hebridean waters produce some of the best seafood in the UK. 

Golden eagles, white-tailed eagles and corncrakes are just some of the amazing birdlife that you might spot from these islands, which are considered to be amongst the best bird-watching locations in Europe.

There are an estimated 4,000 red deer living on Lewis and Harris, so your chances of spotting one is pretty high, and the Outer Hebrides is also considered to be one of the best places in Europe to spot the European otter . Off the coast the marine life is pretty spectacular too, with porpoises, orca whales, minke whales and basking sharks all swimming off shore.

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• The Outer Hebrides – A Guide to the Isle of Lewis + Harris
• By Lisa Michele Burns

Scotland – The Isle of Lewis and Harris

Wind-swept beaches with teal seas rolling onto pearl coloured shores border these islands in the western waters of Scotland.

Scotland is one of those special parts of the world that feels adventurous from the moment you land on its rich soil. It’s rugged, wild and oh so very charming.

Teletubby-like green hills meet stone cottages, quaint country lanes meander through historic settlements and sheep, well, they’re everywhere. The Outer Hebrides are the epitome of the Scottish dream and it’s here that I want to take you on a little visual journey via a series of images from my time exploring the islands.

The faint sound of bagpipes rings out no matter where you are wandering. It’s not that they’re actually audible, it’s that the wind and landscapes create a tune in your head that’s hard to shake.

Also, as I write this article I need to let you know that I’m dictating it in my head with a thick Scottish accent…it can’t be helped. So, bagpipes, Scottish accent…I hope you’ve got them going, now let’s continue.

Scotland is one of those special parts of the world that feels adventurous from the moment you land on its rich soil. It’s rugged, wild and oh so very charming. From the people to the places you’ll visit, each region of Scotland has its own unique drawcard.

For the Outer Hebrides it’s open spaces and beaches so perfect it’s like they copy and pasted a piece of the Australian coastline. Really, one beach is so similar to Whitehaven that it’s a wonder it never ends up on the best beach lists like it’s Aussie twin does!

While the nearby Isle of Skye is a tourism hot spot, and rightly so, the Outer Hebrides are a welcome relief from crowds, in fact, you’ll be hard pressed to find many people most months of the year and that’s all part of the charm. During the warmer summer months the beautiful beaches will see outdoor enthusiasts and seaside holidaymakers visit in their droves but there’s so much space here that it still feels remote.

Below you’ll find a few photogenic hot spots with sample imagery along with details on how to get to the Isle of Lewis and Harris and where to stay…plus a whole bunch of photos to inspire you to visit this incredible scenic part of the world.

First up as always, a map to the area –

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Photogenic Spots on the Isle of Lewis and Harris

Few places in the world can make you feel so far from it all yet so cosy at the same time. Mangersta is a small farming community on the western coast of Lewis, it’s every ‘Escape to the Country’ viewers dream. Cliffs fall into a sometimes wild and cranky ocean swell, Highland Cows roam the paddocks and friendly dogs greet you when you enter the area.

It gives you that warm fuzzy feeling as soon as you gaze eyes upon the farm cottages and WigWams that dot the hillside.

One of the best things about Mangersta is the Mangersta Bothy which I’ve written about previously. Getting there is a challenge because there’s no fixed hiking trail or sign posts, it’s a mud map adventure and that’s what makes it all the more fun. Keeping it this way ensures it’s not overrun by tourists so just ask a local once you arrive…be respectful of the paddock gates too!

Read more – The Best Bothy in Scotland

Geàrrannan Blackhouse Village

As a restored blackhouse village, you can wander through the village and experience the crofting life…

This was a spot I’d researched before arriving and was somewhere I didn’t want to miss. As a restored blackhouse village, you can wander through the village and experience the crofting life and peek at how the blackhouses are constructed.

The village is located in a gorgeous bay looking over the ocean and coastal landscapes. From the blackhouses you can wander up the hill to capture a view over their thatched rooves and chimneys.

There’s a small entry fee to access the village or if you’re keen to really experience a blackhouse, you can rent one and stay a few nights! More information here – http://www.gearrannan.com/

Shallow, warm waters lap against a coastline of rabbit burrowed sand dunes covered of course with lush green grass. Uig Bay is a serious stunner.

The water colour is so striking against the white sands and the open landscapes are perfect for long walks on the beach or a day out and about photographing the ever-changing scenes from land or sea.

Shawbost Bay

Wander past farm houses and stone fences before dedicating an hour or so to stare at the waves and do nothing…

Quiet and feeling a little more residential than the other beaches on the islands, Shawbost Bay is the kind of place you’d take your dogs walking if you lived nearby. It’s a gorgeous curved bay where small waves roll in and the marshlands of Loch a’ Bhaile provide a mixture of tones and textures in the surrounding landscape.

If you’re staying at the Eilean Fraoich Camp Site (keep reading for details) the bay offers the perfect excuse for a sunset stroll. Wander past farm houses and stone fences before dedicating an hour or so to stare at the waves and do nothing. It’s so darn relaxing here!

Callanish Stones

It’s believed they were put there for ritual use in the Bronze Age and are now one of the best-preserved Neolithic monuments in the country…

Scotland’s very own Stonehenge is a collection of standing stones some 5,000years old. It’s believed they were put there for ritual use in the Bronze Age and are now one of the best-preserved Neolithic monuments in the country.

You can wander amongst the stones and even pretend you’re on Outlander (even though the stone circle on the show are fictional), just be warned that this can be a busy spot for tourists so I recommend visiting in the early morning.

St Clements Church, Rodel

With Macleod linage in my own family history, stumbling across this church was such an interesting find…

Perched high on the southern tip of Harris, St Clements Church was built in the early 16 th centore for the Chiefs of the Macleod Clan of Harris. With Macleod linage in my own family history, stumbling across this church was such an interesting find and it’s also touted as the grandest medieval building in the Western Isles.

Sheep roam the surrounding paddocks and you can walk through the cemetery where gravestones date back centuries. Inside ornate carvings, tombs and stone detailing are explained on a series of information panels.

Right next door to the church is a small restroom and surprisingly, inside the women’s toilet is a little book that absolutely made my day to read. Visitors have been writing in the ‘toilet book’ for years since someone left an empty notebook and pen. It’s hilarious, endearing and so fun to leave your own little message for the next loo lurker.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

Depending on what you’re hoping to do during your stay, there’s a season for everyone. Obviously the winter months are a little harsher so you’ll need to be prepared for strong winds, storms and rain however this also brings with it a menacing beauty.

Personally I found early June to be a great time to visit. It’s not quite warm enough to swim but the weather is clearing up, the days are getting hotter and it’s ideal for hiking and beach strolls. It’s also the closest you can get to summer without competing against the crowds for campsites. September would also be a good month to experience the best of both worlds.

Ferry times also changed depending on the season and popularity to be sure to check the Cal Mac website as times vary.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides –

You can fly (and even land on a sandy runway) but I’d highly recommend taking a car and catching the Caledonian MacBrayne (Cal Mac) Ferries. Arriving by ferry means you’re ready to explore once you arrive and having a car on the islands is essential!

Be sure to book well in advance if you’re travelling during the summer months as there are limited ferries each day and they fill up quickly.

One of the most popular routes is from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Tarbert on Harris which is a great central place to arrive and from there you can venture north or south.

For ferry times, ferry routes and bookings visit – www.calmac.co.uk

Also passes are available if you’re keen on island hopping your way around so check out the Hopscotch Passes available.

Great Campsites and Wigwams on the Isle of Lewis + Harris –

If you’re looking for a place to pitch your tent or park your campervan with access to power and facilities, there’s a number of well located campsites available.

Actually, most campsites come with beach frontage and water views making them ideal for a summer holiday! During our time on Lewis and Harris we stayed at three places in total, two campsites and one Shepard’s Hut which turned out to be my favourite accommodation in Scotland!

We hired a Spaceships Campervan for our road trip around Scotland and loved that you can make home almost anywhere we wanted. That said, I prefer to book a campsite and have a shower and facilities nearby!

Below are a list of the campsites we stayed at with phone numbers to contact for bookings.

Eilean Fraoich Camp Site – Phone +44 1851 710504

This is a well-maintained campsite with great facilities in Shawbost on the islands north western coast. From the site you can walk to the beach and it’s also close for visiting The Blackhouses of Arnol.

Horgabost Campsite – Phone +44 1859 550386

To wake up with views of the ocean and the beach just a few meters away, this campsite is hard to beat in terms of location! Located on the beautiful Horgabost Bay it’s a more casual vibe where you pay via an honesty box and cross your fingers for space.

Mangersta Croft Wigwams

This is my favourite little place in all of Scotland. The night we spent here was so special due to a mud map adventure to ‘The Best Bothy in Scotland’ and because hosts Elsie and Derek were wonderful to chat with about the island’s history. Also they’ve got two cute puppies…oh, and the wigwams and their Shepard’s Hut fit the Scottish scenery perfectly. Cute, comfy and very cosy for those chilly nights, it’s a great place to break up sleeping in a tent or a car and treat yourself to a little luxury.

For more information and bookings visit – http://www.mangurstadhgallery.com/wigwams-glamping

In Photos – The Isle of Lewis and Harris

A collection of images taken in early June with the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II + 12-40mm F2.8 PRO lens, 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO lens.

Hello! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens. With 17+yrs experience as a professional travel and landscape photographer, all advice found on this site is from my personal experience on the road. I hope it’s useful for your own travels and would love to hear in the comments about your trips and experiences around the world.

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Blog comments.

April 21, 2018 at 3:51 pm

I am Scottish and have never been to Harris or the outer Hebrides but this post has made me so so want to!! I cannot believe those beaches are Scottish, they look tropical! Such a stunning post, looks like an amazing adventure!

April 21, 2018 at 4:32 pm

I was LITERALLY just planning a roadtrip through Scotland! THANK YOU FOR THIS!! I’m printing it out to put on my wall now

April 21, 2018 at 5:34 pm

Lovely photos! Looks like a very unique part of the world. I would love to spend the night in a wigwam!

April 21, 2018 at 10:51 pm

Gosh, this is making me homesick…and I’m from London. I have realised that what my family loves best is exploring places like this where it’s not guaranteed to be perfect weather, where the air can bite and we can all run and jump to our hearts’ content. So we moved to sweaty Mexico. Whoops. I have wanted to go to the Hebrides for about one zillion years. I’ve pinned the article for future use. Thanks.

April 21, 2018 at 11:59 pm

Your photos are stunning! Exploring more of Scotland has long been on my bucket list and I just wanted to jump into those pics! Thank you for the great ideas for places to explore away from the crowds.

April 22, 2018 at 3:04 am

Lovely post! I just visited Scotland a week ago for the first time and loved it so much. It was one of the few places in the world I wanted to go back to directly. Your pictures are so amazing and make me wanne book a flight to Scotland today 😀

Andrea Mayfield

April 22, 2018 at 11:31 am

Your photos look incredible from Scotland! The coastline is so dramatic and gorgeous! Great guide!

June 7, 2018 at 8:44 pm

Thanks Lisa for bringing back childhood memories of growing up on Lewis. 40 years later, very little has changed. I now live in New Zealand and am often amazed at how similar it can be to the Hebrides at times.

Lisa Michele Burns

June 7, 2018 at 10:51 pm

This makes me so happy to read Neil! The Hebrides are so special aren’t they!? Definitely very much like New Zealand, one of my other favourite places. Were you originally from Harris/Lewis or one of the other islands? I’m so keen to go back and explore the other smaller islands too!

Gwenda Bowman

April 14, 2019 at 8:34 am

Beautiful photos! I plan on visiting the McLeod clan areas and other lines throughout Scotland and Shetland on my Mum’s side of the family, hopefully next year. I live in NZ and have been researching the family genealogy for the past 9 years…time to explore firsthand.

John Staines

April 15, 2020 at 6:05 am

We will hopefully be travelling through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 (Covid permitting) and your article / images have inspired me, thank you.

April 16, 2020 at 9:34 pm

That’s so great to hear John, the Outer Hebrides totally stole my heart…one of those few special places that still exist!

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Roadtripping the Outer Hebrides – Itinerary & Things To Do

When my friend, Vicky Flip Flop , messaged me to ask if I fancied doing an Outer Hebrides road trip in Scotland, it didn’t take more than a few seconds to be like – I’m in! Not that I usually need much encouragement for a road trip, but this was September 2020 and I was desperate to travel.

To be honest, I didn’t even know where the Outer Hebrides actually where, but a quick check of the map taught me they weren’t up in the far north of Scotland like I thought (that’s the Shetland and Orkney Isles).

The Outer Hebrides , also known as the ‘Western Isles’, is a group of islands off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are 15 inhabited islands and many more uninhabited ones. The main islands being Lewis & Harris, Uist, and Barra.

The islands are more beautiful than you can imagine, with a rare, tranquil, rugged sort of beauty that you don’t find very often. Just when you’ve seen the most stunning beach you’ve ever seen, you turn a corner and there’s another one.

We had an amazing time, so I wanted to share our Outer Hebrides itinerary with you, with some ideas of the best things to do and see along the way to help you plan a trip of your own trip to the Western Isles.

We travelled through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 when it was still under Coronavirus restrictions and a few places were still closed, but we still very much enjoyed exploring the islands all the same.

Please Note:  Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. Affiliate sales help with the running costs of this site, so thank you for your support!

Table of Contents

Planning a Trip to the Outer Hebrides in Scotland

Getting To & Around the Outer Hebrides

The most popular way to get to the Outer Hebrides, is to drive to one of the ports on the mainland (Oban, Ullapool, Mallaig) or the Isle of Skye and then take your car across to the islands on one of the Cal Mac ferries that run pretty frequently. These ferries also travel between the islands too.

If you’re in a car/campervan especially, it’s definitely better to book well in advance as there are limited spaces. Foot passengers have a lot more flexibility.

The easiest way to get around the Outer Hebrides is with your own transport, whether it be a car, campervan, or even bike. There is some public transport, but you’ll have a lot less freedom than you would driving yourself.

If you don’t want to take your own car, you could either get the ferry as a foot passenger or fly into Barra, Benbecula, or Stornoway with local airline Loganair . Flights depart from various locations around the UK.

Once there, you can hire a car or campervan, and then make your way through the islands. Carhire Hebrides allow you to pick up a car in one location and drop it off in another.

Another popular activity is walking or cycling the Hebridean Way which goes from top to bottom of the islands and we met a few people doing this whilst we were there. If you don’t want to go it alone, Rabbies has a 6-day tour to the Outer Hebrides and the Isle of Skye .

Our Outer Hebrides Itinerary

If you do decide to go island hopping, you can start pretty much anywhere, but it makes sense to either start and end in Barra or Harris/Lewis, as they are at the top and bottom of the Outer Hebrides.

We drove to Oban (via Loch Lomond), got the ferry to Barra, stayed in Barra 1 night, then got the ferry to Uist, stayed 1 night there, then got the ferry to the Isle of Harris, drove to the Isle of Lewis (Harris and Lewis are 1 island), spent 2 nights there, drive back to Harris, stayed 1 night and then got the ferry to the Isle of Skye and then drove to the mainland.

I really enjoyed our trip and it felt like a real adventure. But knowing what I know now, I would probably have spent an extra night on Barra and an extra night on Uist to explore and relax a little more. I would have liked to do some kayaking here (if the weather allowed).

And, although not the Outer Hebrides, I would have liked to have spent more time on the Isle of Skye (in the Inner Hebrides). A few hours driving through it is not enough. I think you need at least a day or two, to really make the most of it, so I’d add an extra night in Skye.

So my ideal Outer Hebrides itinerary would look something like this:

• Day 1: Ferry from Oban to Catlebay, Barra
• Day 2: Exploring Barra & Vatersay
• Day 3: Ferry from Aird Mhor to Eriskay, Uist
• Day 5: Exploring Uist
• Day 6: Ferry from Berneray, Uist to Leverburgh, Harris
• Day 7 & 8: Explore Harris or Lewis
• Day 9: Tarbert, Harris to Uig, Skye OR Stornoway, Lewis to Ullapool (for NC500)

As Harris and Lewis is so big, I would perhaps suggest splitting where you stay so that you’re not driving so far! In terms of in what order to explore Harris and Lewis, whichever you are leaving from, stay and explore there last!

You can of course do shorter trips or longer trips and you don’t have to island-hop as we did. You can just fly or get the ferry into one island and stay there.

Alternatively, if you have longer (like an extra week or even two), you could also add in places like the Inner Hebrides (Skye, Mull etc), Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and the famous North Coast 500 route . You could then detour to explore the Orkney or even the Shetland Islands! The possibilities are endless.

If you’re a foodie, check out the  Outer Hebrides Food Trail and Map . There’s also a foraging guide  if that’s your thing!

Where to Stay in the Outer Hebrides

There are lots of great places to rest your head in the Outer Hebrides, from campsites with facilities and wild camping, to beautiful hotels and glamping pods. Having your own campervan or tent definitely gives you an extra bit of flexibility. You can hire a campervan from Hebridean Campers or perhaps hire one on the mainland to bring over to the Hebrides.

We did a mix of camping on campsites, wild camping and staying in hotels. If you do decide to camp, make sure you are prepared with the right equipment. We, were not. You will need a strong and low tent, especially if you’re camping near the water.

We brought a big tent, which blew down on our first night, and we’d borrowed extra strength tent pegs from a lady in a campervan. The minute she saw us, she came over and was like ‘That tent won’t last the night’. She was right. Another night Vicky stayed in her tiny, 1-woman low tent and I slept in the car. Also not ideal.

If wild camping, you will also need to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code . For some tips on how best to go about it, my partner in crime, Vicky, has written a great post about everything you need to know before wild camping in the Outer Hebrides .

I’ve listed some places to stay under each location below, but just note that many of these will book up in advance.

Cost of Travelling to the Outer Hebrides

You can make your trip to the Outer Hebrides as expensive or as cheap as you like.

I reckon Vicky and I spent around £450 – £500 each on our trip, including petrol, transport (ferries), food, and accommodation. That included a mix of camping and hotels. We spent nothing on activities (as some were closed and we also didn’t have tons of time).

However, you could easily spend a lot more than we did if you’re doing activities, hiring cars and staying in fancier hotels. Or you could spend a lot less if you’re wild camping/camping and cooking for yourself the whole time.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

You can visit the Outer Hebrides all year. You’ll generally get the best weather during the British summer, however, the weather in the UK and especially Scotland, is never guaranteed, so even if you go in summer it can rain or be cold. The British summertime tends to be the busiest time of year when the schools are on holiday.

Just be prepared for all weather, and know that it rains a lot and is very windy due to the island’s position out on the Atlantic Ocean. Bad weather may affect things like activities and the ferries between the islands.

Midges can be a problem in Scotland in the summer (although not a big problem in the breezy Outer Hebrides), so travelling in April/May and September/October are popular times, when the weather can be pretty ok and the midges aren’t an issue!

Outer Hebrides Itinerary

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

Early in the morning, Vicky and I left my house in North West England, heading towards Loch Lomond in Scotland. And whilst this isn’t part of the Outer Hebrides, I’ll talk about it anyway, in case it’s useful for you!

Now, I have to give a special mention to Tebay Services on the M6, my favourite service station in the UK! I love Tebay, although every time I go I end up spending a fortune in their farm shop.

We picked up some cheese, chutney, crackers, cakes, gin in a tin, and then continued our journey to Loch Lomond in Scotland.

On the way, we stopped at the Loch Lomond Visitors Centre at Balloch. We had a little walk around and although it wasn’t a highlight of the trip for me, kids might enjoy the Sea Life Aquarium or the Loch Lomond Bird of Prey Centre .

We also visited the village of Luss , which is very cute and pretty with a few shops, toilets and a pay and display car park. We walked around the village, had lunch at The Village Rest (which was really nice) and took a stroll down to the the dock where we saw a beautiful rainbow! You can take boat trips out onto the lake with Cruise Loch Lomond if you have the time.

Our last stop was the village of Ardlui and the Ardlui Hotel, where we grabbed a drink in the bar and Vicky had the chance to fly her drone over the loch before we made our way to the Pine Trees Leisure Park , our accommodation for the night.

If you want to wild camp around here, you will need to get a permit (unlike in the Outer Hebrides, you can’t just camp for free) and follow the rules of the park!

I would have liked an extra day here as there are lots of great activities in and around Loch Lomond , including walks, boat trips, paddleboarding, and kayaking.

Loch Lomond is on the West Highland Way , one of Scotland’s most-loved walking trails, so Vicky and I took a morning walk along part of the trail before we began our journey to Oban where we would catch the ferry to the Outer Hebrides. We stopped at the The Real Food Cafe (highly recommended) for a bacon, egg, and cheese butty on the way.

In Oban, we had a few hours before we were due to board the ferry, so we parked up and had a little wander around town and grabbed some lunch. I got some fish & chips from MacGillivray’s Seafood whilst Vicky picked up some seafood from the Oban Seafood Hut  (Green Shack) down by the ferry office.

This place has a big sign saying ‘Local Shellfish’, had big queues, which means it’s probably really good and it gets good ratings on Tripadvisor. They did a big platter which looked fab… if only I liked shellfish.

I liked Oban immediately. There were lots of souvenir shops, whiskey shops, the Highland Soap Co. (great for Christmas presents, and treating yourself) as well as some nice pubs and restaurants, which included a lot of seafood places. A popular activity is to take a tour of the Oban Whiskey Distillery which is often booked up in advance.

Barra & Vatersay

We took the CalMac car ferry from Oban to Castlebay (5.5 hours) on the Isle of Barra, our first stop on our Outer Hebrides itimnerary along with the tiny neighbouring island of Vatersay.

You can also fly into Barra with Loganair and land on one of the world’s only beach runways. Whilst I wouldn’t usually consider myself much of a plane spotter, Vicky and I made our way up to  Barra Airport  to see one of the daily flights coming in.

Why? Because Barra is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach. Pretty cool, hey? And it’s just been voted the 5th most scenic airport in the world! Plus, if you fly in, you’ll get the bird’s eye view of this paradise island!

Barra is often nicknamed Barra-dise or Barra-bados and it was easy to see why people fall in love with the place. These were the quietest of the islands we visited and stunningly beautiful, with beaches that look like they came right from the Caribbean.

My favourite thing that we did whilst staying on Barra was going over to the island of Vatersay, the southern-most inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides.

To get to Vatersay, you take a short drive from Barra, and once there, just head off and explore. We spent most of our time on a beach called Traigh a Bhaigh where Vicky was able to set off the drone and get some stunning pictures.

The waters are crystal clear (perfect for swimming, if a little chilly), the sand clean and white, and there were cows just wandering down the beach. It was really idyllic. From here you can walk away from the beach, over the road, and across the dunes to the other side where another gorgeous beach awaits.

We only spent one day here, but it would have been lovely to spend more time and do some of the water-based activities. Unfortunately, it was too windy the day we were there anyway, but you might have more luck.

Things to Do on Barra

• Clearwater Paddling : A friend of mine highly recommended, taking a trip with these guys. She had beautiful weather when she went a few years ago and paddled over to a seal colony and saw puffins. Am I jealous… yep, lil’ bit!
• Isle of Barra Surf & Coastal Adventures : They run a few different activities including surfing, snorkelling with seals, coasteering, and kayaking.
• Barra Bike Hire : This would be a great way to see the Isle of Barra, especially as it’s quite small and the roads are quiet.
• Hebridean Sea Tours : They run trips around Barra and to some of the islands in the surrounding area including the abandoned island of St Kilda.
• Kismul Castle: The ancient seat of the Clan MacNeil, the ‘Castle in the Sea’ was closed when we were there due to Covid-19 restrictions, but usually, you can visit to learn about its history and climb up to the top for panoramic views over Castle Bay. You can find out more from the Isle of Barra Heritage Centre .
• The Isle of Barra Distillers Co : Whilst on the island you could pick up a bottle of locally made Barra Atlantic Gin. They usually offer tours from March to September on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Where To Eat & Drink on Barra

• Cafe Kismul : We enjoyed a really nice meal at this Indian/Italian restaurant. It’s in the centre of the main village, near to the post office and ATM. It’s only small so you may be best to make a reservation.
• Castlebay Bar : This seems to be the nightlife on the island.
• Hebridean Toffee Factory & the Deck Cafe : We only stopped here for a bacon butty (didn’t try the toffee), but it was pretty good and this is where we picked up the cool tourist map you see on the photos.
• Bùth Bharraigh : A nice little visitor centre and shop selling food, souvenirs, and useful things like extra tent pegs. They also had a good selection of dairy and gluten-free items, something I always notice!
• Barra Airport Cafe : If you get peckish whilst waiting for the plane to come in, grab some food or a drink at the airport cafe.
• Co-Op: If you’re self-catering, there’s a Co-Op in town where you can stock up.
• Ardmhòr Coffee: Near to the ferry terminal, so you can pick up a pre-ferry drink or cake.

Where To Stay on Barra

• Wavecrest Campsite : We stayed at this campsite, which was really nice and cheap at £10 and with an amazing view. £15 if you need access to power. There are showers, toilets, and a kettle, but not much else in the way of facilities.
• Croft No. 2 Campsite : Situated at Barra’s northern point, this campsite has a modern toilet/shower block, a washing machine at £3.50 per wash and a mix of level and slightly sloping grass pitches, most with electrical hook-up. Chemical deposit point, dish-washing & storage area, in-door & outdoor drying. 
• Dunard Hostel : A few of the other people we met on the ferry were staying here, which was right in the centre of town, close to the ferry. This seems to be the popular backpacker’s choice!
• Isle of Barra Beach Hotel : In case you don’t fancy camping or hostelling. They also hire out electric bikes.
• Vatersay Old School : A gorgeous self-catering option on Vatersay Island.

For our second stop on the Outer Hebrides itinerary, we took the CalMac car ferry from Aird Mhor Barra Ferry Terminal to Eriskay (40 minutes), an island in the south of Uist, a larger group of islands which consists of Eriskay, South Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, Flodaigh, Grimsay, North Uist, Baleshare, and Berneray. There is also an airport at Benbecula.

To be honest, we didn’t do much whilst we were here as we only had less than 24 hours, most of which was spent sleeping, eating, and driving, but if you have more time, there are lots of great things to do and it’s a very beautiful place!

We spent the night wild camping next to gorgeous Culla Bay Beach in Benbecula. Once again, the wind was howling, so our wild camping expedition wasn’t quite as successful as we’d hoped (this is where I ended up sleeping in the car).

Things to Do on Uist

• St Kilda: Uist is a great jumping-off point to visit the uninhabited island of St Kilda. There are a few companies that run tours throughout the Outer Hebrides including Uist Sea Tours . Highlights of the tours include spotting bottlenose dolphins and puffins.
• Hiking: There are a few nice walks on Uist, including the stunning Udal Peninsula (approx. 3 hours), North Lee (approx. 4 – 5 hours), the Barpa Langass and the Stone Circle and Vallay Island (approx. 30 mins at low tide, but just be very careful to come back before high tide or you’ll be stranded).
• Traigh Iar & the Beaches: Traigh Iar beach is a favourite in the area. Other great beaches include Clachan Sands, Hosta, Traigh Ear, and of course, Traigh Udal (Udal Peninsula).
• Uist Community Riding School : I can’t imagine few things feeling as good as riding a horse on one of these gorgeous, white sand beaches!
• Go Otter Spotting: Otters might just be the cutest creatures in the world, and there are a number of places to spot them on Uist and in other parts of the Outer Hebrides. You can find a list of places here .
• Balranald Nature Reserve : Bird lovers will enjoy a trip to this reserve in North Uist. Species found there include barnacle goose, corn bunting, corncrake, lapwing, and turnstone. Spring is a great time to visit. They offer guided walks during the summer months.

Where To Eat & Drink on Uist

• Charlie’s Bistro (Benbecula): We ate dinner at Charlie’s Bistro in Benbecula. The food was really nice and the owner Ian was super helpful and gave us lots of info! We also tasted some of the local Downpour Gin, made at the North Uist Distillery Co.  As gin’s go, this was super tasty and had a really smooth, distinctive taste – definitely recommended.
• Am Politician: Bar & restaurant on Eriskay, overlooking the beach.
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Pub food with a great craft beer and gin selection. Currently best rated on Tripadvisor.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Brasserie style restaurant using the freshest local ingredients.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Great selection of food including all the usual favourites. Good selection for veggies and vegans.
• Taigh Chearsabhagh (North Uist) : Great cafe located at the Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Well-rated restaurant with evening meals served from 6pm.
• The Dunes Cabin (North Uist): This food truck at the Balranald Hebridean Holidays site near to the Balranald Nature Reserve.
• Berneray Shop & Bistro (Berneray) : We stopped here to buy some toastie making supplies but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to eat at the bistro as it was too early – opens at 12pm.

Where To Stay on Uist

• Uist Storm Pods (South Uist) : I love a good glamping holiday and these pods look like the perfect place to escape the elements, overlooking the loch towards South Lochboisdale.
• Uisinis Bothy (South Uist) : Free bothy, however, you need to call ahead during the stag stalking season.
• Long Island Retreats (South Uist) : Off-grid, self-catering accommodation, Located in some of the most scenic spots in South Uist.
• Uist Forest Retreat (North Uist) : Luxury treehouse accommodation. These look like the dream and where I would stay if I went back!
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Great little cottage/bothy. Also with the best-rated restaurant on the island.
• The Tractor Shed Camping Pods & Bunkhouse (North Uist) : Lovely glamping pods, the site fits up to 24 guests.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Nice, well-appointed rooms with a great restaurant and views looking over to the bay to the Isle of Skye.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Comfortable rooms overlooking Lochmaddy Harbour.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Traditional style lodge, with views across the loch to Eaval.
• Balranald Hebridean Holidays (North Uist) : Campsite with electric hookups, as well as a glamping pod and a small cottage.
• John’s Bunkhouse (Berneray) : A popular spot is the famous John’s Bunkhouse on Berneray. This is nice and close to the ferry port if you have an early start over to Lewis and Harris.

Isle of Harris

We took the CalMac car ferry from Berneray in Uist to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris (1 hour). Lewis and Harris is the main island of the Outer Hebrides. Harris is the southern third of the island and Lewis is the northern two-thirds of the island. You would say the ‘Isle of Lewis’ and the ‘Isle of Harris’ but they are attached and not two separate islands.

One thing to realise is that Lewis and Harris is much bigger than you think, so give yourself enough time to explore. We spent 2 nights in Lewis and 1 night in Harris. The first day was mostly spent driving to our accommodation which was in quite a remote location of Lewis.

We then spent the next day exploring Lewis, then a day exploring Harris, ending up in Tarbert on the 3rd night, so we were close to the ferry. If I were to do it again, I probably would have given a little bit more time here, at least 2 days for Lewis and 1 full day for Harris (or more).

Depending on where you are departing from (usually Stornoway for Ullapool or Tarbert for the isle of Skye), I would try to spend at least your final night close to the ferry to make it easier and then plan around that accordingly.

Things to Do on Harris

• Seilebost Beach: Said more like ‘Shul-e-bost’ in Gaelic, or at least that’s how it sounded to me) Beach – which was one of the many gorgeous beaches we visited on our Outer Hebrides itinerary. It was incredibly windy though! To get there, you park up, and then it’s a little walk over the dunes to get to the beach, this includes quite a steep drop down the sand dunes to get onto the beach so it wouldn’t be suitable for wheelchairs, at least not from this access point anyway.
• Clements Church: South of the ferry terminal is Rodel where you’ll find St Clements Church, built around 1520. A photograpers favourite.
• The Golden Road: Landing in Leverburgh, we drove what is known as the ‘Golden Road’. This runs from Rodel in the far south up to Tarbert, a port town in the middle of Harris.
• Isle of Harris Sea Tours: Our plan had been to do a tour with Isle of Harris Sea Tours . But again, the weather wasn’t so great, so we decided to give it a miss this time. Trips depart from Tarbert to various locations around the islands. They are also part of Kilda Cruises  who offer tours to the abandoned, remote island of St Kilda.
• Luskentyre Beach: This was by far the busiest beach of the trip, probably because it’s gorgeous and it was a lot calmer than Seilebost, so perfect for swimming! Just down the road (you’ll pass it on the way), there is a cute little hut that was working on an honesty box system. We bought coffee and chocolates and made ourselves a little beach picnic, which was great until the rains came in. We tried to shelter under the picnic blanket but ended up abandoning the beach. And what do you know? It was sunny again by the time we got back to the car. Scottish weather is bonkers!
• Play Golf: I’m not a golfer, but my husband is and the golf course at Scarista ( Isle of Harris Golf Club ) is likely to be one of the most beautiful you’ll ever come across – let’s just hope the weather holds out!
• Eilean Glas Lighthouse, Scalpay: On the other side of Tarbert, on the island of Scalpay (driveable), you’ll come to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse. You can’t drive all the way there, so you’ll need to park, and then it’s a little bit of a hike (around 20 – 30 minutes) to the lighthouse. There are also a number of longer walks around the peninsular too.
• Tarbert: We spent our last night on the islands in Tarbert which is where the ferry departs to the Isle of Skye. In Tarbert, you can visit the Harris Distillery & Shop . They usually do tours, but they weren’t running at the time of our visit. You can also stock up on some of the famous Harris Tweed in the Harris Tweed Shop  which is across the road.

Where To Eat & Drink on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert) : We had a lovely meal here. I had the cullen skink and fish & chips, both were excellent (ps. I’ve never eaten so much fish & chips in my life as I did on this trip, it was fab).
• Taste n’ Sea food Truck (Loch Seaforth) : Overlooking Loch Seaforth, this was a fantastic find. Both Vicky and I had the fish and chips (again), with homemade tartar sauce and she had a bowl of Cullen Skink too – which I didn’t try this time, but she assures me was very good.
• Sam’s Seafood Shack (Rodel) : Food truck in Rodel with amazing reviews.
• Butty Bus (Leverburgh) : Great for a quick bite, near to the Leverburgh ferry port.
• An Traigh (Seilebost) : Great place for lunch and afternoon tea. Amazing views.
• Scarista House (Scarista) : Beautiful hotel and restaurant, great for a romantic night.

Where To Stay on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert) : We stayed here on our last night as we’d heard a storm was brewing (we were going to camp). It was cosy and they had a nice restaurant. A great place to relax.
• Hotel Hebrides (Tarbert) : This is a more modern hotel, situated right next to the ferry in Tarbert.
• Kirklea Island Suites (Tarbert) : Gorgeous apartments right near the ferry.
• Sandy Bay Croft Wigwams (Scarista) : We drove past these and they looked incredible with great views over the beaches.
• West Harris Trust (Various Locations) : The West Harris Trust have a number of great camping spots on the island, close to Seilebost and Luskentyre beaches.
• Fir Chlis (Seilebost Beach) : Gorgeous self-catering home, overlooking Seilebost Beach. One of the top picks on the Isle of Harris.
• Borve Lodge Estate (Borve) : If you really want to treat yourself, stay at one of the gorgeous lodges on the Borve Lodge Estate.
• Horgabost Campsite (Borve) : On the beach, opposite the island of Taransay.
• Scaladale Centre (Loch Seaforth) : Hostel & activity centre, offering things like mountain biking, rock climbing, sea kayaking, and coasteering.
• Lickisto Blackhouse Camping (Lickisto) : Stay in your own tent, campervan or one of their gorgeous glamping yurts.

Isle of Lewis

As mentioned, I wish I’d had a bit more time in Lewis. Two full days would have been great! Lewis has a lot of things to do and places to explore, so don’t rush it!

While the other islands had been more flat, Harris and Lewis were more hilly and barren looking, reminding me of England’s Lake District or the Scottish Highlands .

To get to Lewis, you can either drive from Harris or get the car ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway to do this trip in reverse. There’s also an airport in Stornoway.

Things to Do on Lewis

• Mangersta Beach: We didn’t visit Mangersta Beach, but if you have more time, it does look amazing. With a number of sea stacks out in the water it’s a good place for photography.
• Uig (Lewis) Chessmen & Uig Bay: We went to see the 12th Century Uig Chessmen, a chess set, calved from walrus ivory, found in Uig Bay in 1831. What we didn’t realise is that the real chess pieces are on display in British Museum in London, and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. What you see in Lewis is a replica statue, but it’s still pretty cool. Uig Bay is an incredibly beautiful place to visit, with a huge sandy beach. There’s also the Uig Community Shop and Petrol Station if you need to stock up. Seatrek also run boat tours departing from here.
• Reef Beech & the Circular Scenic Route: We took the Circular Scenic Route on the way to Reef Beach. This is a really nice, relatively short drive and Reef Beach is one of the prettiest around.
• Bosta Beach, Great Bernera: My uncle’s parents came from the island of Great Bernera off the coast of Lewis (you can drive there via a bridge), so I wanted to make a special trip out there to see the lovely Bosta Beach. Again we found another amazing white sand and turquoise waters beach – they just kept getting better and better!
• The Callanish Stones: The Callanish Stones are ancient, 5000-year-old stones from the  Neolithic era that were erected as a place of ritual and worship during the Bronze Age. If you can work it into your itinerary (and you get the weather), it might be nice to be at the Callanish Stones around sunrise or sunset, as the illuminated sky will really make your photos look incredible!
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village: Sadly this was closed when we were in the area, but we drive past for a look anyway! This is a traditional Hebridean village, located right on the coast, where you can stay or visit to learn about life in the Outer Hebrides.
• Dalmore Beach (Traigh Dhail Mhor): If you haven’t had enough of the beaches yet (and you probably never will), make your way to Dalmore Beach for more gorgeous views.
• Stac a’ Phris Sea Arch: A little further around the coast, you’ll come to the Stac a’Phris Sea Arch on the West Side Coastal Path. Being on the west side, this is a popular place for sunset photography, so would make a nice final stop before heading back to Stornoway for dinner.
• Stornoway: We got to Stornoway in the early evening. Stornoway is the capital of the Hebrides and where you’ll find most of the action. We first had a walk around the harbour, followed by a drink at McNeill’s pub, ending with dinner in the Harbour Kitchen. Even though they were booked up, they fitted us in for an early dinner.

Where To Eat & Drink on Lewis

• Harbour Kitchen (Stornoway) : We had dinner here and I’d highly recommend the food and the friendly service. Vicky had the biggest pot of mussels I’ve ever seen (I think she counted 70+) and I had fish & chips (again). Both were fantastic and I’d highly recommend going here. Just make sure you book ahead as it’s very popular!
• Harris & Lewis Smokehouse (Stornoway) : We were set on eating here to sample their smoked salmon, but it was closed when we were there.
• Boatshed Restaurant (Stornoway) : Stylish restaurant at the Royal Stornoway Hotel.
• Uig Sands Restaurant (Uig) : Lovely restaurant overlooking Uig Sands, famous for their smoked salmon.

Where To Stay on Lewis

• Broad Bay House (Stornoway) : Gorgeous b&b just outside of Stornoway.
• Airbnb (Cromore): We stayed in this lovely Airbnb, in Cromore. It was a little bit out of the way, but really comfortable and the hosts were lovely.
• Otter Bunkhouse & Bothy (Uig) : Bunkhouse sleeping 8 people. Bothy sleeps 2 people.
• Otter Bay Pod (Stornoway) : Small and cosy pod near to Stornoway. Sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids, or 3 adults.
• Stornoway B&B (Stornoway) : Cosy b&b in the centre of Stornoway.
• The Hatchery (Tolstachaolais) : Gorgeous house, sleeps 4. Would be an amazing house to have over Christmas and New Year!
• Mangersta Croft Holidays (Mangersta) : Lovely glamping pods near Mangersta Beach.
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village : Unique accommodation, great for groups.
• Eilean Fraoich Campsite (Shawbost) : Up in the north of Lewis, near to Gearrannan Blackhouse Village.

Leaving the Outer Hebrides

From the Outer Hebrides, you have a few different choices.

If you hired a car in the Hebrides, you can fly back to the mainland from Stornoway, Barra, or Benbecula. Or you can get the ferry from Tarbert (Isle of Harris) to Uig on the Isle of Skye and travel onwards from there. Skye joins onto the mainland, so you can easily make your way to Glasgow, Edinburgh, or Inverness.

Another option is to get the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool on the mainland, which is a great place to begin exploring the Highlands, including the fabulous North Coast 500 drive .

Other Scotland posts you might enjoy…

• 30 Things To Know Before You Drive Scotland’s NC500
• Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route Planner, Map & 1-Week Itinerary

I hope this helps you plan your itinerary and I hope you enjoy your trip to the Outer Hebrides! I loved my trip and can’t wait to go back again.

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Hi. I may have missed it but some indication of the costs would have been really useful. I appreciate that everyone’s trip will be different (routes, eating preferences etc) but a general pointer would be great if possible. Many thanks

I think the trip cost me about £500 in total, but I didn’t keep a detailed record of the costs. We camped and stayed in cheap hotels, drove our own car etc, but like you say, everyone’s trip will be very different depending on whether you drive/fly, drive your own car or hire one, or whether you camp (wild or in campsites), stay in a campervan or stay in hotels, length of trip and how many activities you do.

But from all the information and website links I’ve put in the post, you should easily be able to work out your estimated costs based on your own preferences. 🙂

What an amazing blog on the Western Isles. We are determined to go and have been inspired by you. Thank you so much!

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Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

If you want to experience the wilds of Scotland, a road trip through the Outer Hebrides is a great introduction. Here’s my itinerary to help you plan your Western Isles adventure.

Go on a road trip to the Outer Hebrides and you’ll avoid the crowds of the almighty North Coast 500, and get to see some of the most open and free parts of Scotland. 

I went to the Outer Hebrides with my friend and fellow travel blogger, Helen in Wonderlust. Sounds incredibly stupid now, but I hadn’t quite realised I’d planned a road trip to the Outer Hebrides, as I was going off Instagram pictures I’d seen. Genuinely thought I was going on a road trip to the Western Isles –  who knew it was the same thing, hey? 

Anyway, confession over, let me guide you through our Outer Hebrides road trip, so you can do the same (one day!). 

Click to see the Outer Hebrides Road Trip Route Map

This was our basic route for the Outer Hebrides road trip. I planned it two weeks before – the day before I went to Norfolk for four days – so, it was a skeleton of an idea, which we planned to flesh out while we were there. 

I’d originally planned more destinations, including Ullapool, but when it came to booking the ferries I realised it was just too much.

Just a warning, booking the ferries for our Outer Hebrides road trip was more complicated than I thought. Knowing the names of the ferry ports, planning the timings and connections, and then, knowing if they had space was harder than I planned. This probably took me about three hours, but with this guide you’ll be able to do it in way less.

More tips on actually booking the Outer Hebrides road trip below. 

So, let’s get onto the Western Isles road trip itinerary, shall we?

Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond

After driving up from Portsmouth, where I live and about 275 miles away, the day before, we actually set off from Preston. Managed to swing by Tebay Services to drop £50 on snacks, as if we could afford it.

And, after a great drive through the Lake District , we were in Scotland . Kinda daunting how Google Maps told me it was just straight for 174 miles on the motorway, but at least it kept the instructions easy to follow.

Loch Lomond things to do 

I needed a break, and so we pulled up to  Loch Lomond Shores , at the south of Loch Lomond. It’s a small shopping centre with a Sea Life Centre and a park, and a watersports hire place. We had a look round, went to the toilet, and left – weren’t really feeling the vibe. 

Instead we drove north, to the village of Luss. It’s known as one of the cutest villages around Loch Lomond, and so we went for lunch at The Village Rest . A popular spot where I enjoyed an amazing jacket potato and veggie curry – delicious. I’d 100% recommend. 

We went for a wander around Luss. Ended up buying a Scottish face mask (it was September 2020), seeing a stunning rainbow over the pier, and admiring the cute houses, the village is known for. There was also a great gift shop, and a lovely little coffee shop too. Definitely worth a stop off. 

We’d toyed with the idea of visiting Loch Katrine around the lock , and going on a Loch Katrine cruise , but the weather was threatening to change and we decided we were too tired. It was in the wrong direction. If you can fit it in though, and it’s not 2020, then take a look. Pack your women’s parka coat to keep you warm if you want to do this – there are some great ones at Trespass !

We stopped at Ardui instead. Took the time for a local beer and a quick go with the drone, and carried on. The scenery was great. 

It would’ve been great to explore the Loch more, but with the weather and driving distances, we decided to crack on and get settled for the night. If you did want to do some more  driving round Loch Lomond, there are some great scenic drives listed there. 

Loch Lomond accommodation

I managed to freak myself out by obsessively reading weather reports, and so ended up booking a ‘mountain hut’ at the Pine Trees Holiday Park at the last minute. Loved it. Seriously. Wasn’t even annoyed that the weather was fine and we would’ve been ok to camp, like I’d planned.

For £20 each a night we got this cool hut, with an intense heater and just a few steps away from a shared bathroom, with great showers. The owner was great here and it backed onto the Wild Hebridean Way, which I totally plan to do one day.

I had a little walk on it here…

I had actually paid for the camping round Loch Lomond already, as you can’t wild camp in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, like you can in the rest of Scotland. We paid £3. The weather scared me though, and staying at Pine Trees meant we didn’t have to drive too far the next day to Oban either. 

Here’s a MAP of the spots around Loch Lomond so you can decide if you want to do it or not.

Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

I was so happy that I only had an hour’s drive to Oban from our accommodation, rather than the two on the original plan.

We stopped off for breakfast at The Real Food Cafe , just a minute’s drive from Pine Trees. Super clean, tasty breakfast baps, and a dedication to supporting toilets in Malawi, means this is a no brainer. Go!

We were warm, fed, and ready to get to the Outer Hebrides. 

When you’re driving round the lochs in this area you’ll see lots of places to park up on the road, and passing places too – take advantage! We stopped off at Glen Lothy to find the reflection of Ben Cruachan on the water was particularly special that day. 

Arriving in Oban

We wanted to have time to look round Oban, so we didn’t stop too long. As soon as I arrived in Oban I wished we had longer , but then after three hours, I think that was about right. Unless you’re going in season and not in 2020 – then you could join a boat tour, or visit the distillery. 

On our visit in September 2020 we looked round the souvenir shops, admired the restaurants and mooched about the Scottish produce shops. We walked to the North Pier, and then the other pier, and went and took the car to the ferry in good time. 

My hot tip for Oban would be the fish market at the ferry terminal. NOT the one with the tartan on but right next to the terminal building. You’ll find it as there’s a huge queue outside. Great price seafood, and super popular. This would be a good place to pick up some Scotland souvenirs to remember your trip by.

The ferry from Oban to Castlebay (which is Barra’s main port) leaves at 13:40 and gets in at 18:25. Don’t be late as it cost almost £100 for a car and two passengers!

Check in closes 45 minutes before it’s scheduled leaving time. 

Oh, and it’s not the North Ferry Terminal. It’s much bigger than that and over the other side. If there aren’t road signs, you’re in the wrong place. Also, you can go about an hour early and park up there to avoid paying around the city.

Oban to Barra by ferry

The ferry from Oban to Barra takes 5 hours. My mum had warned me before that it was sickening and rocky, and I shrugged it off. Heading into hour three, and it turned out she was right, as usual .

I was so seasick I couldn’t move.

I’d gone to get a drink downstairs, and Helen was upstairs and I seriously couldn’t muster my legs to go back and tell her where I was. It was rough. 

As soon as we arrived I was fine.

Thankfully.

But just to warn you.

Castlebay, Barra

We arrived onto Barra, to wind and rain, and so went to put up our tent at the Wavecrest Campsite. The guy there gave us the bright idea of camping on the hill, to be more private. We didn’t realise then quite what a mistake of an idea that was. 

Tent up by the beach, all proud of ourselves, off we trotted into Castlebay for some food.

We went to Cafe Kisimul, an Indian/ Italian restaurant that comes very highly rated online. I went for a chicken jalfrezi – which was even more delicious considering it was about 8pm, and the rollercoaster of a day we had. We ended up staying till closing, getting as much electricity into our phones, and hot food in our bellies as possible. 

Accommodation in Barra

As I’ve said, it was September 2020, COVID times (although this was a break where we were allowed to travel!). All Outer Hebrides hotels I could find online were a two-night minimum, and they said different households weren’t allowed to mix, which is why we ended up camping.

There is a hostel you could try in normal times, called Dunard Hostel, which was in a great location. 

Wavecrest Campsite was really basic. Three toilets and two showers in an industrial tanker thing, and that was about it. No Wi-Fi. It was by the beach though, and not far from the town, and the two members of staff were lovely. 

We barely got a wink of sleep that night though, thanks to the howling gales, our flapping tent, and the worry we were about to be blown into the sea. 

All good fun though, right?!

READ MORE: Fun Games for Road Trips to Keep You Busy

Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra

Vatersay is a little island off Barra, with a population of just 90 people . It makes for a lovely slow drive to explore the island and see the amazing Outer Hebrides beaches surrounding .

Make Traigh a Bhaigh Beach your first port of call. It’s stunning.

The weather really made it for us, and the fact it was one of the few places in the whole Outer Hebrides road trip that I managed to get my drone up – so enjoy these pictures. 

There’s a cafe here that does operate, although not when we were there. Too early. You can park near here though and there are toilets when it’s open.

We just chilled on the beach, had a brew and admired the view. Would’ve loved a swim but also didn’t want to as we were camping. Spend as long as you can here!

We tried to drive round the island but you can’t actually go much further than this. Instead of driving on, you should walk over the dunes to Traigh Shiar Beach on the west coast. Gutted I missed it!

From here head off the island, and make sure you pull into Uidh Beach for pics. Again, more stunning coastline and views.

Back on Barra 

Any other time, you can enjoy Barra Surf Adventures Barra surf adventures – sea kayaking . There wasn’t any availability thanks to it being 2020, but just wanted to add it in here for future travels.

For brunch we headed to the Hebridean Toffee Cafe, where unfortunately they didn’t have any toffee ready for us to sample. Instead, we had two bacon sandwiches each. Needed it. 

If you do want toffee you can pop into the Buth Barraigh Community Shop. Here you’ll find all kinds of local treats and goodies. 

The big thing to do in Barra is to watch the plane come in on the only beach runway in the WORLD. We magically timed it just right and made it for the 12:15 arrival – felt like everyone in Barra was there waiting!

It was pretty impressive coming in. I’m sure the passengers felt like superstars with all of us waiting. 

Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

Then we headed to the ferry terminal – a different one to the one we arrived in on, at the north of the island. 

Both pretty shattered we ended up having a nap at the terminal, in the car. Was so nice with the sun streaming in.

There was a cafe there, with cakes and coffees, so a scone for an afternoon snack it was. 

Barra to Eriskay – departs 15:40 / arrives 16:20 £17 for a car and two passengers

We took the ferry over, and sat in the car missing all the supposedly beautiful views. Blummin COVID meant we weren’t allowed to get out and walk around.

Arriving into Eriskay, we drove up to South Uist, admiring the views as we went. We were desperate for some decent food, and after quite a bit of driving with no map or phone signal, managed to find Charlie’s Bistro. 

Lasagne, with chips and garlic bread. TRIPLE carbs. Yes.

The owner, Iain, was lovely. He bought the cafe when it was an old sweet shop, called ‘Charlie’s’. He had fond memories of a childhood popping in there for sweets and so wanted to keep the name, but make it a lovely restaurant. 

He was really helpful in our quest to go wild camping in Scotland and directed us to a few beaches to try where no one would mind. 

Accommodation on Benbecula, South Uist

We ended up at Cula Bay. It was even windier than the night before and we couldn’t actually even get the big tent up. Thankfully I’d taken a one man one and so I slept in that on the beach, while Helen slept in the car. It was a rough night. 

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot about wild camping and though I’d totally do it again, that night was hard. 

The beach was amazing though!

Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris

Up early, it wasn’t good enough weather to properly enjoy the beach, so we packed up as soon as we woke up, and drove up South Uist and North Uist, with a leisurely drive to the terminal. 

I was determined to use the camping stove and toastie maker I’d bought and so after managing to find an open shop at the terminal, we bought some bread and cheese. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the flame so much it didn’t cook, and so we had dry cold cheese sarnies for breakfast.

There’s nowhere to eat before 12 on South Uist. At least, we couldn’t find anywhere. 

Beneray to Leverburgh to Harris Island –  Departs 11:10 / Arrives 12:10

There’s loads of cool stuff to do on Lewis and Harris, but after two nights of camping, gawd we were tired. 

We decided to head north to our Airbnb and just see what we saw on the way. 

We accidentally happened upon the food truck, Taste n Sea, which actually ended up being my favourite food experience of the whole Outer Hebrides road trip. We didn’t know at the time, but they’re actually pretty highly regarded around the Hebrides. 

I went for cod pieces, Cullen Skink soup, and a tea. All tasted soooo good, and even better with this impressive view to look out on as we ate. 

That gave us a good feed for the day, as we hadn’t realised the portions were quite so big. 

We pootled on to our Airbnb in Cromore, admiring the stunning scenery as we did. If the weather had been better I would’ve gone in for a wild swim.

Accommodation in Harris 

We got to our Airbnb in Cromore, showered and just fell asleep. SO nice to relax in a comfortable Scottish home.

We had a room in a lovely couple’s home, but they had to go to the hospital in Glasgow for a check up so, along with another couple who’d got a room on Airbnb, we had the place to ourselves. Hot shower, lovely kitchen, and a massive DVD collection with a big lounge meant we were very happy to be there.

We paid around £21 each per night.

Day 5: Road trip round Lewis

Up and ready, finally refreshed. We wanted to see as much of Lewis as possible. Big day ahead.

The top things to do in Lewis include hiking, exploring the beaches, enjoying the Circular Scenic Route (which included the impressive Reef Beach), going to see the Callanish Stones , learning about the chess pieces of Lewis, and enjoying the Old Village (wasn’t open). 

We had a great day driving round, BUT, the one thing that was missing, was food . Couldn’t find an open restaurant anywhere (this was Sept 2020). We managed a cup a soup at the Lewis Community Shop (great place), and that was it all day. 

So by 5pm we headed to Stornoway – the main town of the Western Isles and the capital of Lewis and Harris in Scotland. Had to be some food there! 

We went for a pint and a packet of crisps at McNeills pub, and waited for the Harbour Kitchen to open. And when it did, wow. Managed an amazing meal. I ordered mussels and they gave me 71.

I counted them. Staff were lovely, and the bread they gave alongside was an absolute taste sensation. 

Accommodation in Lewis

We stayed at the Airbnb again, on Harris, and watched Braveheart. Lovely evening!

It was a bit of a drive but there weren’t any other option tbh.

89 Road Trip Quotes to Inspire Your Next Adventure

Day 6: Road trip round Harris

Today it was Harris’ turn. What could we find on our big day in Harris on our Outer Hebrides road trip? 

After leaving our Airbnb we headed into Tarbert, where we’d be getting our early ferry from tomorrow, and the most populated area on Harris.

First stop, breakfast. 

After getting some petrol (they do it for you, it’s great) we saw a sign for breakfast at the Harris Hotel . 

Best bacon and egg sandwich ever. It was so hot inside, how did they do it? That set us up, and made us book into the hotel for that night too. As we still hadn’t planned any accommodation for our final night of the Outer Hebrides road trip. 

Day in Harris

We spent our day in Harris exploring Seilebost Beach, Luskentyre Beach, walking out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, shopping in Tarbert, wishing we could go in the Harris Distillery, and generally having a lovely time. 

We had dinner in the hotel – cod and chips, with a herring starter – and drinks in the bar after. It was a great last night on the Outer Hebrides!

TOP TIP: Watch out for which Tarbert you book your hotel in. There’s another one in Argyll, where the Loch Lomond Park is and you don’t want to get muddled.

The Harris Hotel was very ‘Scottish’ looking, and traditional. I thought it was great – we were both impressed with our room. It was definitely bigger than the average, we had a sofa and TV, and of course a private bathroom too. 

It was about a two-minute drive from the port, and walkable to the famous Harris Distillery. There was plenty of parking out front, and the staff were lovely too. 

In fact, everyone we met in the Outer Hebrides was definitely nicer than the average!

You could also try the Hotel Harris, which was a bit more modern and even closer to the ferry terminal. Click here for more photos, prices and availability for the Hotel Hebrides .

Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye

We were up and out, and managed to get the price of breakfast off our hotel as we didn’t have time to eat it. Pretty happy about that. So useful being about two minutes from the terminal too, glad we invested in the Harris Hotel!

Tarbert to Uig Departs 07:30 / Arrives 09:10

Ferry was pretty chill. Had a gross ‘sausage patty’ sandwich though – if they ask if you want ‘links’, say yes.

Unfortunately for us, the weather was terrible in Skye. My mum had been warning me all week about the weather warnings on breakfast TV. Well, it hit in Skye.

We’d been so excited to explore but the rain really stopped play. Driving was awful, and we couldn’t see the stunning views we knew were beyond the fog.

We drove round Quiraing, and managed a few pics and vista points before the heavens opened.

We sat and had cake in Portree, hoping it’d change. I have been to Skye before, on January 1st and weather was actually way better than in September, just to note. 

We gave up and didn’t even look round Portree in the end. Such a shame as we’d so been looking forward to exploring Skye.

Still determined, we drove up to the Fairy Pools, which look amazing online, but found they weren’t even open thanks to the torrential rainfall.

Driving through Glencoe

We drove south, through Glencoe, stopping at a Tibetan market we happened to see along the way. 

Glencoe is one of the most stunning places in the Highlands, but unfortunately we could barely see past our hands. So, we just decided to head back.

I had a LONG drive to do and wanted to get some of it over with.

We passed Ben Nevis somewhere in the fog, and stopped at Eilean Castle, which was featured in James Bond.

I just carried on driving past Loch Lomond and Pine Trees, through the rain, to Glasgow. 

We arrived into Glasgow at around 6pm, to lovely sun. Forgot what that felt like.

Everything looked great and I’d love to go back to see Glasgow, but for that night, I just wanted dinner and a drink. We went to MacSorley’s next door, and had mac and cheese with pulled pork, and a few gin and tonics.

Accommodation in Glasgow

We stayed at the Jury’s Inn Glasgow, which was in an incredible location, and only £40 for the night. The duvet and pillows there were just AMAZING. Click here to book a bargain at the Jury’s Inn in Glasgow.

Final day map

6 hours 31 minutes drive – probably took me longer

——

Day 8: Glasgow, and home

If you have the time, enjoy looking round Glasgow. It was wonderful weather for it, but I needed to get to my parents in the Midlands. We left, stopping at Tebay Services on the way back for breakfast, and then, home.

A great week road tripping in the Outer Hebrides!

Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

– I’d definitely recommend dividing up that last day. It was just too much driving and I couldn’t relax and enjoy the morning.

– Pack some healthy food in the car as it could be hard to find when we wanted it. Barely ate a vegetable all week. 

– The roads are unbelievably well kept, especially compared to down where I live in Hampshire!

– If you want to wild camp, read my guide . 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places – and be courteous. 

– Let other drivers pass, as they might be on their way to work while you’re chugging along admiring the view. 

– Keep your petrol topped up. 

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

Outer hebrides ferries.

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Oban to Castlebay = £100
• Eriskay to Barra = £17.15
• Ferry = £21.30
• Tarbert to Uig = £44.65

= £183.10 / 2 = £91.55 each

Outer Hebrides Accommodation

This is what we spent on accommodation for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Wavecrest Camping x 1 = £10 
• Airbnb house x 2 = £50
• Harris Hotel x 1 = £60
• Jury’s Inn, Glasgow x 1 = £22

= £142 each

Outer Hebrides food

This is what we spent on food for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• We didn’t eat particularly well on this trip, and did actually eat chocolate bars for lunch on two days. Sad times. Had some lovely fish and chips at the Harris Hotel, enjoyed my mussels, and the lasagne and chips were just what I needed.

I’d estimate I spent about £150 on food for the week.

= £150 each

Outer Hebrides petrol

This is what we spent on petrol for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

Petrol was one of the biggest expenses on the trip, and from Preston to Preston again, it cost about £130 between us. 

Total cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip =   £449

More European road trips for you to try

Advice for wild camping & driving in the Outer Hebrides

Wild camping in Scotland is perfectly legal, but there are rules to keep it fun and open to all. If you’re feeling inspired by my wild camping adventure and want to give it a go in the Outer Hebrides, make sure to follow the Scotland wild camping rules.

• You won’t stay longer than three nights in one place. 
• You’ll leave the spot how you find it (or better!).
• No fires. 
• Respect animals, nature and other people. 

Top tips for wild camping 

You need to be prepared for wild camping in the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you through a few lessons learned the hard way, so you don’t make the same mistakes!

– When you choose a spot to camp, look for some sort of shelter. At least from one direction. But, don’t camp between two high points as the wind will funnel through to you. That fresh coastal air can become a howling gale very quickly!

– Getting the tent up is one thing, but getting the pegs to stay in the ground is another. So much of Scotland is either boggy, or dry – so you may have trouble with the tent pegs. I’d recommend getting some storm pegs for extra resilience.  

– Don’t camp next to a stream, or any body of water, as little brooks can easily turn into torrents. You do NOT want to wake up to a river in your tent. 

– Don’t move rocks or dig ditches to make your camping spot better. That’s not how wild camping in Scotland works. And don’t camp near people’s homes, or within view from their house – they won’t like it. 

– My tent was too high, too hard to put up, and there was too much fabric to cope with in the wind. When it comes to choosing a tent, go small, basic and as minimal as possible.

– No matter what the time of years, expect the nights to be cold and pack extra warmth for your tent and sleeping bag.

– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you have the time to pick an exact spot before nightfall. 

Top tips for driving

– Don’t worry about the islands’ road conditions. The roads were amazingly well kept and other motorists were very courteous – we didn’t have a problem. 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places and pull over if the passing place is on your side of the road. 

– Keep your petrol topped up as it could be some time between stops. 

– Download your maps to your phone before you start as you might not have phone reception for your trip. Any cafe or restaurant we asked was happy to give out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase so we were ok. 

– Spend some money locally rather than taking your own food or using supermarkets. Try the fish market for lunch in Oban, pick up some treats from the community shop in Harris, try the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to taste the local cuisine. It’s tempting to be 100% prepared, but it’s fun to sample local produce and really helps the local communities too. 

Packing list for your trip

A lightweight tent that’s super easy to pitch, and light. 

Take a good quality all season sleeping bag , and an insulated mat too. Maybe some sort of pillow ? Up to you whether you can be bothered to carry it or not. 

You need a way to get water. I was fine with two bottles kept filled and kept in the car but you can get water treatment tablets from Boots easily enough. 

Camping stove, with a gas cartridge . 

Take a phone power bank , and the midge repellant.

You might want to bring a First Aid Kit, a repair kit for the tent , and some hand sanitising gel too. Make sure your toiletries are all biodegradable. 

Some sort of picnic mat to sit out at night. If you’re in little hiking tents there’s no space to sit up. 

Road trip in the Outer Hebrides

If you want to go road tripping round the Outer Hebrides I wholeheartedly recommend it. I feel like we had a real adventure, at a time when adventures were hard to find. We barely saw a soul out and about, and it was the perfect trip to get away from it all.

If you have any questions about going on a road trip in the Outer Hebrides – let me know in the comments below.

PIN THIS OUTER HEBRIDES ROAD TRIP FOR LATER

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• 13 Unique Scotland Souvenirs to Remember Your Trip By

Hi, I'm Vicky! I wrote this. You can find me on all the social media @VickyFlipFlop. I love a bit of adventure, will try anything once, and have a strong passion for the local food and drink, whatever it may be. I'm here to help inspire you to travel to places a little out of your comfort zone, or at least to explore the usual destinations in a different way. Stay, have a look around, and if you have any questions – let me know below.

Loved reading about your Western Isles adventure, planning ours now.. Regards, Kel and Carole Coles.. South Wales

Hi Vicky, Thanks for the flip flop advice.Looks like we might have to do this trip. But not wild camping,can you recommend doing this in a camper van / motor home . We are both retired and so the time of year is not an issue. Kind regards, John

Can you park a campervan on Cula Bay. I grew up in Benbecula from age 4 until 9 going back 45years now and spent every weekend with our caravan on Cula Bay through the summer. I am taking my 15 yr old daughter this Summer and your road trip has been very useful. We are taking 2 weeks traveling from Petersfield near Portsmouth so any suggestions of places to give more time

Just read your Outer Hebrides Road Trip article and found it fascinating and very useful . We are hoping to do a very similar thing in April/May, except that we shall be taking two weeks instead of your one and we shall return via Stornoway and Ullapool. Oh, and as we are both approaching the age of 80, we shall be staying in hotels and guest houses, not camping! We actually booked it first for 2020 (cancelled because of COVID), then for 2021 (ditto!), so this is our third attempt to do this trip. Like you, we shall take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay (thanks for the warning about rough seas!), then we spend two nights each on Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris (three nights there), Lewis west coast, and Lewis east coast (north of Stornoway). I have had three years to do my research and thought I had everything sussed, but your article gave me ten very useful facts that I had missed (places to eat, for example, and even a beach that I’d managed to miss!). Many, many thanks for your report.

Hello David, that’s so wonderful to hear. It warms my heart that I’ve helped plan your trip! That will be fantastic over two weeks. When I think back it was a little rushed with all the driving, two weeks will be perfect to be able to enjoy it all properly. Hotels are a great idea too!

Sounds like you have a fantastic itinerary and I hope you have a great time. It really is a stunning part of the world, whatever the weather. Hope you enjoy those impressive beaches!

@David Briers, Hi, did you manage to do your trip David.. My wife and I hope to do a similar trip next Spring.. Started planning today.. Would love to know how you get/got on??? Oh by the way, we are spring chickens..65 ish traveling by car and utilising hotels and guest houses hopefully. Kind regards, Kel and Carole Coles. S.Wales

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Stories My Suitcase Could Tell

Why You Should Visit The Outer Hebrides In Autumn

September 18, 2018 By Katie MacLeod 21 Comments

Why should you plan to visit the Outer Hebrides in autumn?

The iconic images of the Outer Hebrides are always taken in the summer: blue skies above the beaches, the sun setting behind the Callanish stones, or the plane landing on the beach runway at Barra airport in perfect conditions.

In reality, the weather is not always perfect. And while I probably wouldn’t recommend you visit the islands as late as December (it can feel as if daylight barely breaks, which if you’re not accustomed to it, can take some getting used to), I’ll let you in on a little secret: autumn can actually be one of the best times to visit the Outer Hebrides.

Not only is September known for (relatively) decent weather – and a distinct lack of those pesky midges that descend in the warmer months – but the local calendar is still full of events and activities for you to enjoy long after the summer holidays end and well into the autumn and winter months.

So if you’ve missed the summer season and are debating booking a trip to the islands, or are simply looking ahead to next year’s travel plans, here are just some of the reasons why you should visit the Outer Hebrides in autumn.

It helps keep travel to the islands more sustainable.

“Sustainability” has become a bit of a buzzword in the tourism world, but it’s for good reason. Increased visitor numbers without an equivalent investment in infrastructure puts a strain on communities and natural environments, something that has been in evidence in the Outer Hebrides in recent years (for example with locals unable to get access to lifeline ferry services because they were fully-booked with visitors). By visiting in autumn, you’re helping spread the impact of tourism throughout the year, and reducing the negative effects on the very place you’re coming to experience.

The beaches (and roads) will be quieter.

On a similar note, recent summers have seen the often narrow roads in the islands get busier and busier, especially with the influx of large camper vans. To avoid the (admittedly still small) crowds, and to help keep travel to the islands sustainable – after all, islanders still need to go about their everyday lives while visitors relax on holiday – consider visiting in September or October, when the beaches, roads, and hotels will be a bit quieter. Who wouldn’t want Luskentyre or Huisinis all to themselves?

Accommodation prices tend to be lower in the off-season.

With tourist accommodation at a premium in the Outer Hebrides, prices are rising, for everything from traditional bed-and-breakfasts to high-end luxury self-catering properties. Like elsewhere in Scotland , though, summer is the peak season here, meaning that as you move into autumn and winter, prices begin to drop.

If you’re worried about the cost of your Hebridean adventure, making the journey in the autumn might save you some money on accommodation (money that can then be spent enjoying all these must-have experiences in the Outer Hebrides !)

Heather is still blooming in September.

If you want to see the heather in all its purple glory, you can still catch it in early September. Given that most of the islands, from the Butt of Lewis to the Isle of Barra, are home to large swathes of moorland, you’ll likely see the heather blooming wherever you are.

You can still get a glimpse of the local wildlife

While the midges are (thankfully!) long gone, the rest of the islands’ wildlife are still roaming. This is a great time of year to keep an eye out for deer in the hills, see salmon jumping in rivers on their way upstream, and spot seals in harbours and coves.

Boat trips to the outlying islands are still running.

Two of my all-time favourite travel experiences – sailing to the Shiants and St Kilda  with Sea Harris – are still available throughout the autumn. Boat tours to outlying islands and around the various coastlines tend to run from April to October, so you won’t miss out by visiting the Outer Hebrides in autumn instead of the busy summer months between June and August. (In fact, you’re more likely to get a coveted space on one of the boat trips at this time of year!)

There’s a better chance of seeing the magical Northern Lights.

Sightings of the Aurora Borealis, known as Na Fir Chlis in Gaelic, are never guaranteed. But as the nights draw in, leaving behind the almost never-ending daylight of summer, your chances of seeing the Northern Lights in action increase. Watching them dance from my back garden  back in 2014 was a truly incredible experience (as this photo from local photographer Colin Cameron shows!).

You can listen to world-famous writers at Faclan, the Hebridean Book Festival.

Faclan is hands-down one of my favourite events in the island calendar, and one of my all-time favourite book events. The Hebridean Book Festival, run by An Lanntair, the arts centre in Stornoway , takes place every year at the equinox.

Focused on a different theme each year (previous themes have included Pilgrimage, Second Sight, and the North Atlantic), it attracts writers and thinkers from around the world; in recent years the likes of Amy Liptrot, Peter May , and Jenny Colgan have all graced the stage. In Uist , the Taigh Chearsabhag arts centre also has a busy events calendar year round.

The leaves start to change in the Lews Castle Grounds.

Trees are hard to find in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the islands consist of rocky terrain, flat moorland, or grassy machair. The Lews Castle Grounds in Stornoway , however, are home to a wide variety of trees and imported plants, created in the 1840s at a cost of £49,000 to Lord and Lady Matheson.

It’s one of the few places in the islands where you can get that traditional autumn experience of watching the leaves turn from green to orange and bronze. A walk in the Grounds on a crisp autumn day is hard to beat, especially if it’s followed up with a coffee (or maybe a dram!) in the Lews Castle café or bar.

And of course, everything else that makes these islands a must-visit location is still there in autumn, too!

From the delicious food and drink (like a gin tasting at the  Harris Distillery or North Distillery , or feasting at one of the best restaurants in Lewis and Harris ), to the music nights in local pubs, and the scenery that takes your breath away no matter the time of year, there’s always plenty to see and do in the Outer Hebrides – but maybe especially so in autumn, when you can cosy up by a fire and feast on hearty meals after your outdoor adventures.

____________________

Have you ever visited the Outer Hebrides in autumn? Would you like to, or do you prefer to travel in different seasons?

Let me know in the comments below – i’d love to hear from you.

This blog post was first published in 2018, and most recently updated in September 2022.

If you enjoyed this, you might like:

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

A Mini Travel Guide to Stornoway

13 Useful Things to Know Before Visiting the Outer Hebrides

September 18, 2018 at 5:23 am

Fabulous as usual, Katie. Agree with all your thoughts.

October 6, 2018 at 8:24 am

Thanks so much Marilyn – glad to hear you feel the same! 🙂

September 19, 2018 at 12:11 pm

I’m liking the sound of that book festival. And the Northern Lights over the Callanish Stones? Now that would be a sight I’d like to see.

October 6, 2018 at 8:25 am

The book festival is fantastic – it’s one of my favourite events of the year in the islands. And the Northern Lights, if you catch them, are pretty spectacular!

September 9, 2019 at 1:15 pm

Reading this makes me feel homesick for the Islands. Always love the eerie beauty and the peace.

September 26, 2019 at 4:16 pm

Aw thank you Colette, that’s so nice of you to say! There really is something special about the peace and quiet in the islands 🙂 .

June 17, 2020 at 5:02 pm

This was really useful thank you! We were supposed to be visiting Lewis in August but have decided to cancel – I really don’t think it’s fair on the locals regardless what government advice is. September seems like a good idea when we rebook as by September next year I can book out of school holidays.

June 18, 2020 at 11:39 am

I’m so glad to hear you found it helpful, Judith! September is a lovely time to visit the islands. I’m also staying away for now ≠ which is hard because it’s home! – but it’s for the best. I hope when you do make it to Lewis you have a wonderful time! 🙂

September 4, 2020 at 8:02 am

We’ll be there in 10 days! It’s my second time there but the first for my husband ! We cannot wait

October 21, 2020 at 9:05 am

I hope you had a wonderful time!

September 11, 2020 at 3:30 pm

We have just spent three nights in Stornoway, and absolutely loved every minute! September was a perfect time to be there, and we will definitely return, hopefully for a bit longer next time!

October 21, 2020 at 9:04 am

I’m so glad to hear you loved your visit, Fiona – and that you’re planning on returning, too!

November 7, 2020 at 2:13 am

My husband was a ‘Wicker’ and spent his childhood and youth in Ness after leaving his place of birth, Wick, for safety reasons. On his way home from school one day the street was attacked by enemy aircraft, and eight of his little mates were killed and many buildings destroyed. He was sent to his Aunt’s home in Ness and spent most of his formative years there and completed his Secondary schooling at Stornoway. Eventually, he served an Apprenticeship in Marine Engineering on the Clyde and Stow College before setting off to see the world. I was a Registered Nurse at The Royal Melbourne Hospital and there we met at a party I was invited to. Three years later we married and as part of our honeymoon joined him on his cargo ship for two months sailing around the Australian Coast and New Zealand. Eventually, after many long separations, we settled in Sydney and in time welcomed a son and daughter and had a wonderful marriage. Sadly he passed away two years ago but the memories of his years on Lewis remained. Though I have not been there the stories and memories of Ness became so vivid in my mind. He never forgot his roots and I have literally hundreds of beautiful slides …yes! slides !of the Island all in perfect condition. He was a Coghill from Wick, the MacLeod clan, and his Aunties and Mother were Murrays from Barvas. His brother wed a lovely lass from Stornoway . She was a MacLeod.I hope this is not too lengthy.!

February 18, 2023 at 11:16 pm

You, and most other sources, speak specifically about how September is a lovely, and quieter, time to visit the Outer Hebrides. You speak of autumn and seem to include October, but your specific examples all seem to focus on September. We are considering a visit to the Outer Hebrides in October of 2023, and would appreciate any advice you have about an October visit. One weather source seemed to show that October has the highest rainfall levels of the year. I also wonder about the birds and other wildlife.

What are the pluses and minuses of an October visit? How much of a difference is there between early and late October? Do you have any recommendations for an October visit? We are a family group with quite disparate interests.

February 19, 2023 at 10:13 am

Hi Ruth, thanks for your comment! That’s exciting to hear you’re planning a trip to the Outer Hebrides this year!

The one piece of advice I would give is that unfortunately you can’t really base your trip to the islands on weather, at any time of year, as it’s very unpredictable (you can get sunny dry weather in February, and grey skies and rain in August), and we joke that you can experience four seasons in one day. If you at least go prepared for rain with the appropriate clothes, you’ll still be able to get out and about on the beaches and for walks etc. whatever the weather.

In terms of wildlife, October is meant to be one of the best months to spot deer (although my photo of a deer in this post was taken in late November), and for bird watching, I’d recommend looking up the Outer Hebrides Bird of Prey Trail for specific details. I would also check with the various boat tour companies to see when exactly their boat trips end for the season, but in general I would say you can see and do most things in October that you can do earlier in the year. I hope that helps!

February 19, 2023 at 3:16 pm

Ruth, I have no right to reply because this is Katie’s website, but I’d like to reiterate everything Katie has said and all the advice she has given. My personal experience of the Outer Hebrides was in the height of summer and for the first 5 days of my 2 week visit it rained – quite literally water poured from the skies so heavily that it was hard to see anything further than 5 feet away. I was preparing to cut short my visit and leave…and then the sun came out! And those stunningly beautiful islands set amid the clearest turquoise waters I have ever seen emerged. Everything from that moment on was quite literally breathtaking. I found myself gasping at more beauty than I have ever seen before. So if you go in autumn, you may get endless sunshine or rain. I hope it doesn’t rain for you, but if it does, remember the sun will come out some time, and there are so many things to see and do while you wait. There are lots of museums and lovely cafes and shops to enjoy – Stornoway just buzzes! Further south, there is a lovely little museum in Harris with letters and photos showing the history of the people who had to leave because of the clearances and go to Canada or America. So sad, but fascinating too when you read about such resilience. And those Hebrideans now! How do such remote islands produce such educated,laid back and friendly people?! Lovely Katie is an example of the inhabitants you will meet. I hope it doesn’t rain for your visit, but if it does, enjoy what you can indoors and wait for the sun to appear! If you get good weather, you are in for a treat that no other holiday can offer. I would highly recommend a walk from Lews Castle around the ocean front – seals leap and play and the silence is of the pin-dropping variety. Or walk on the white sands on the beaches in Harris that are so soft you sink up to your knees. Just my opinion!

September 14, 2023 at 1:34 pm

Hello Katie, Am planning my visit (First time) to Isle of lewis in October second week for 3 days.. Hopefully I get Northern lights and bit of sunshine weather.. Any suggestion for nature view places to visit Thanks

October 2, 2023 at 1:12 pm

Hello Zain, thanks for reading! There are so many nature-based places to visit. Any and all of the beaches in Lewis and Harris; the Castle Grounds in Stornoway; lots of nature/moorland walks… the list goes on! I’ve got lots of tips on my Outer Hebrides guide, as well, which you can read here: https://storiesmysuitcasecouldtell.com/outer-hebrides/

I hope you have a wonderful time!

February 22, 2023 at 11:08 pm

Thank you both for your responses. The other aspect I was concerned about is whether birds and other sea wildlife will have migrated south by October. I know I want to come sometime, the October visit to Scotland is with 8 other family members, so coming to consensus will be challenging.

June 28, 2023 at 3:28 pm

This has helped me make my mind up to visit next Sept/Oct rather than June. I really didn’t want to visit during the summer when the islands are at their busiest but was worried about everything being closed out of season. I’m actually really excited to book for next autumn now so thanks for this wonderful blog!

October 2, 2023 at 1:13 pm

Hi Katie, thanks so much for reading! I hope you have a wonderful trip when it comes around, and that you enjoy the islands in autumn as much as I do! 🙂

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Best places to see the Northern Lights around the world – and when to visit

O ne of the world’s most famous natural sights, the Northern Lights attract people to areas around the Arctic in hopes of seeing the rare display.

Caused by the redirection of particles from the sun that hit the Earth’s atmosphere, the stunning atmospheric phenomenon is seen as the Holy Grail of skywatching and mostly occurs in areas around Norway , Finland , Sweden and Greenland.

The lights can be seen in other parts of the world; the UK has even had sightings in Scotland, Merseyside and Wales this winter during a period of heightened geomagnetic activity.

Unfortunately, such sightings are rare and most people wanting to see the aurora borealis (the scientific name for the phenomenon, coined by Galileo Galilei) will have to travel further north.

To help you in your quest to see the spectacular light show, we’ve put together a list of the best places for seeing the Northern Lights and when to go to maximise your chances.

Read more on travel inspiration :

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Tromso, Norway

Tromso sits at the centre of the Northern Lights’ oval, meaning that the lights can be visible even when activity is low. According to the tourism website, Tromso is “one of the places in the world with the highest probability of seeing the lights”, and there is “always a good chance of seeing” them between September and April.

Temperatures are moderated by the Norwegian Sea and westerly winds, meaning that they are much milder than usual for the latitude, with averages of between 2C and -1C during peak viewing times (compared to Svalbard, where the average January high is -13C).

When to visit Tromso

Your best chance of seeing the lights in Tromso is between September and April, when the skies are dark enough for them to be visible.

Svalbard, Norway

This Norwegian archipelago is home to more polar bears than people and experiences harsh winters, with the sun not properly rising over the horizon between mid-November and mid-January.

While the islands do not experience total darkness (and therefore you aren’t guaranteed to see the lights), the main island, Spitsbergen, hosts several different types of expedition to give you the best chance of catching the phenomenon. If you’re lucky, you may even see some polar wildlife such as reindeer, Arctic foxes and walruses too.

When to visit Svalbard

The lights season here is slightly shorter than in Tromso, running from September until the middle of March. The best time of day to try and see the lights is between 6pm and midnight.

Rovaniemi, Finland

Located in Finnish Lapland, Rovaniemi markets itself as the ‘Official Home of Santa Claus’ and contains a Santa Claus Village and Santa Park. The Northern Lights are visible here on “around 150 nights a year” from August, and the tourism websites provides ideas for nearby locations to view them.

Among its suggestions are the Arctic Garden (a 10-minute walk away) and the top of Ounasvaara fell (a longer, 45-minute walk from the town). Among other snow-based activities – such as sledding – you can join snowmobile trips and ice floating tours as special ways to enjoy the lights.

When to visit Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi is one destination where the lights season is exceptionally long, running from late August to early April. However, the best time to visit is during the Polar Night period, from mid-November to mid-January.

Reykjavik, Iceland

Iceland is located roughly 65 degrees north, making the country an excellent option for those trying to see the Northern Lights. They can be viewed in several locations, such as Thingvellir National Park or Kirkjufell Mountain, but the best place to stay when visiting has to be Reykjavik . The Icelandic capital is a typical Nordic city in style and acts as an excellent base for seeing the natural sights of the country in the day before going on a guided trip to see the lights by night.

When to visit Reykjavik

Iceland has a fairly typical length to its lights season, running from September to April.

Abisko, Sweden

Situated in Swedish Lapland, right at the heart of the aurora oval, Abisko National Park receives no light pollution and has one of the lowest rainfall climates in the Nordic area. With many surrounding mountains to keep the skies clear, Abisko also offers the chance to try out several activities such as snowmobiling, fishing and hiking.

The Aurora Sky Station markets itself as “the best place on Earth to experience Northern Lights”, but it seems that this confidence isn’t unfounded: if you were to stay for three nights in Abisko, you’d have an 88 per cent chance of seeing the lights, while the government website also claims that the area sometimes receives “more than two weeks of consecutive northern lights nights”.

When to visit Abisko

Maximise your chances of catching the lights by visiting between mid-September and early March.

Yukon, Canada

With a land area of 483,450sqkm, the Yukon is a vast region which is almost as large as the entirety of Spain. Roughly 80 per cent of the territory is wilderness; it’s home to the longest river in Canada , the second tallest peak in North America (Mount Logan, at 5,959m high), the smallest desert in the world (Carcross, at 1.6sqkm) and dozens of animal species, from moose to brown bears.

With this in mind, while exploring on your own may be tempting, when it comes to viewing the lights you’re best off booking a tour. It’s a good idea to base yourself in Whitehorse (the capital, with a population of just over 28,000), where guided tours will take you to nearby spots to give you the best chance of seeing the light show.

When to visit Yukon

Another place with a lights season lasting nearly eight months, Yukon’s most active time for light displays is between October and mid-November.

Ilulissat, Greenland

The most sparsely populated country in the world, Greenland offers the chance to see the lights with uninterrupted calm and tranquility. With a population of just under 5,000 people, Ilulissat is “rich in Inuit history” and is home to “millions of icebergs”. Low levels of light pollution and many clear nights will offer a good chance of seeing the lights during your stay.

With a population of just over 500, locations such as Kangerlussuaq also offer good opportunities to see the lights but may be too remote for some.

With three new airports coming to the island , access will soon be easier than ever.

When to visit Ilulissat

Along with the rest of Greenland, Ilulissat has a fairly typical season, lasting from September to March.

Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Home to “some of the darkest skies in the UK”, some of the islands in the Outer Hebrides sit on the same latitude as parts of Norway and Alaska . The aurora has been seen as far south as Edinburgh , but the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra are your best chance for seeing the lights in the UK .

More accessible than most of the other locations on this list, the islands are also generally an excellent spot for seeing different astronomical sights, such as the Orion Nebula, the Milky Way and the Andromeda Galaxy.

When to visit the Outer Hebrides

Lights season in these islands runs from September to April, although the best time to see the lights is during the Equinox and Solstice, so between March and April and September and October respectively.

Fairbanks, Alaska, USA

The second largest city (by population) in Alaska, Fairbanks is situated near the centre of the state and is home to just over 32,000 people. Located on a similar latitude to Iceland, conditions here are perfect for viewing the lights: dark skies, dry conditions and a lack of light pollution.

One of the main benefits of Fairbanks (versus some other locations on the list) is the fact that you don’t even have to leave the city to see the lights, and as a major settlement, all the necessary amenities are available alongside the many tours on offer.

When to visit Fairbanks

The season here lasts slightly longer than usual, stretching from late August to April.

Finnish Lapland

While Rovaniemi has already been mentioned on this list, there are so many worthy destinations in Finnish Lapland that the entire area has to be recommended. Levi is the largest ski resort in Finland but is less crowded than other European resorts, and offers the chance to see the lights on snowmobiles or on reindeer-drawn sleighs. Harriniva is another resort that offers similar activities, with the Muonio River adding another scenic touch. Saariselka offers a different, village setting with excellent spots for viewing the lights only half a kilometre away.

When to visit Finnish Lapland

The official Finnish tourism website states that the best times to see the lights are in autumn and spring, at the beginning and the end of the season, with the season itself running from mid-August until early April.

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