isle of shoals garden tour

Celia Thaxter’s island garden welcomes visitors back to the Isle of Shoals

DURHAM — The enchanting and colorful garden of beloved writer Celia Thaxter will bloom in its original home plot on Appledore Island after a two-year hiatus. Flower lovers and fans of the popular poet can once again experience the sights and sounds of this cherished historic garden that Thaxter started over a century ago.

Boat reservations can now be made for the 10-mile pilgrimage to the Isle of Shoals to tour the restored garden maintained by the Shoals Marine Laboratory, which is jointly run by the University of New Hampshire and Cornell University. In the summers of 2020 and 2021, because of COVID-19 precautions, SML made the difficult decision to cancel day trips to the island.

“Visitors from around the world are passionate about seeing Celia’s garden and we love having them come to discover its beauty,” said Jennifer Seavey, SML’s executive director. “We are excited to welcome them back to the island to see the vibrant garden inspired and adored by Thaxter herself.”

Each winter, Shoals Marine Lab works with Rolling Green Nursery in Greenland to cultivate a specific blend of flowers from seed to recreate the garden on Appledore Island so that it accurately reflects the time period and Thaxter’s original designs outlined in her book “An Island Garden.” As the cottage garden grows throughout the season it changes and emerges to encompass a wide variety of plants. Some of the highlights include many types of poppies (which were Thaxter’s favorite), hollyhocks, dahlias, sweet peas, foxgloves, nigella, scabiosa and many others. During the pandemic, the lab worked with the town of Portsmouth, which provided a temporary site at Prescott Park, to reimagine the garden on the mainland for horticulture and literary lovers to enjoy.

Thaxter grew up in the Isles of Shoals and became a favorite American author in the late 19th century. She lived much of her life on Appledore Island where her pocket garden served as a cutting garden for her family’s hotel. She welcomed a steady stream of well-known writers, musicians and painters to the island to enjoy vibrant conversations in lively salons in her parlor. Impressionist painter and dear friend Childe Hassam made her garden famous in his paintings and Thaxter published a book with collected prose and watercolor illustrations of her gardens.

Garden tours will run on Fridays beginning June 24, until Aug.26. To register go to  www.shoalsmarinelaboratory.org/event/celia-thaxters-garden-tours . SML also runs several overnight public programs on Appledore Island later in the summer. For more information go to:  www.shoalsmarinelaboratory.org/public-education .

• How to Visit the Isles of Shoals

Last year began  a new era for Star Island and the Isles of Shoals. The regular daily summer ferry no longer runs from Portsmouth to Star Island. Visitors to the Oceanic Hotel will have their own ferry as will students at the Shoals Marine Lab on Appledore. This guide is for them and for everyone who wants to see or visit the rocky historic Isles of Shoals. Rye Harbor has become the new center of activity.

HOW TO SEE & VISIT THE SHOALS Half are in NH, half in Maine Note: SeacoastNH.com is not responsible for changes to schedules or to this information. Please check with your transportation source in advance of travel. If you have additional information on tours and travel to the Shoals, please email us. SEE: Our Shoals Maps VISIT: Isles of Shoals history section

ISLES OF SHOALS SIGHTSEEING (stay on boat, view all islands) Isles of Shoals Steamship Company Historic Isles of Shoals, Lighthouses and Portsmouth Harbor Tour departing twice daily aboard the steamship style M/V Thomas Laighton from Portsmouth. Tour features up close views and famous narration of the nine Isles of Shoals and sights of Portsmouth Harbor including three lighthouses, five forts and the Olde Port Waterfront. Beverages and snacks available. Onboard activities and portable touch tank provided by Blue Ocean Society.Special events, party ships, dinner cruises, weddings, receptions and educational fieldtrips are also offered.

Portsmouth Harbor Cruises Regular summer sightseeing tours 2.5 hours starting at noon Tues – Thurs from dock on Ceres Street in Portsmouth

Island Cruises Daily narrated tours around the Isles of Shoals aboard a real lobster boat leaving Rye Harbor

Granite State Whale Watch Wednesday evening Isles cruise with fireworks over Hampton Beach, July and August at 7pm from Rye Harbor

Island Cruises VISITNG STAR ISLAND & the Oceanic Hotel (click here)

VISTING APPLEDORE ISLAND & the Shoals Marine Lab (click here)

VISITING THE OTHER ISLANDS at the Shoals (click here) Includes Smuttynose, White, Malaga, Seavey, Cedar, Duck & Luncing.

Continue to VISIT INDIVIDUAL ISLAND

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Shoals Marine Laboratory Offers Mom an Island Garden Adventure

Iconic view of bright orange poppies blooming in Celia Thaxter’s cottage island garden. Garden tours are offered by the Shoals Marine Laboratory from June to August. Photo credit: Robbin Ray/UNH

DURHAM, N.H.— This Mother’s Day skip the floral arrangement and give mom a flower experience that will last long after the blooms in a bouquet. Book tickets for this summer to the Isles of Shoals to enjoy the sights and sounds of the enchanting and colorful historic garden of beloved writer and poet Celia Thaxter, which she first planted over a century ago.

Boat reservations are now available for the 10-mile pilgrimage to Appledore Island to tour the restored garden maintained by the Shoals Marine Laboratory (SML), which is jointly run by the University of New Hampshire and Cornell University. Flower fans, literary lovers and anyone looking for a unique outdoor experience will enjoy seeing the iconic garden and walk in the footsteps of Thaxter.

“The vibrant colors and story of Celia’s garden attracts visitors from around the world and we love having them come out to the island to discover its beauty,” said Jennifer Seavey, SML’s executive director. “It is a joy to be able to preserve and share this historic site so all can see the garden that inspired a prolific artist colony, led by Celia.”

Each winter, SML’s master gardener Terry Cook works with Rolling Green Nursery in Greenland to cultivate a historically accurate blend of flowers from seed to recreate the garden on Appledore Island so it reflects the time period and Thaxter’s original designs outlined in her book “An Island Garden.” As the cottage garden grows throughout the summer it changes and emerges to encompass a wide variety of plants. Some of the highlights include many types of poppies (which were Thaxter’s favorite), hollyhocks, dahlias, sweet peas, foxgloves, nigella and many others.

Thaxter grew up in the Isles of Shoals and became a celebrated American author in the late 19th century. She lived much of her life on Appledore Island where her pocket garden served as a cutting garden for her family’s hotel. She welcomed a steady stream of well-known writers, musicians and painters to the island to enjoy vibrant conversations in lively salons in her parlor. Impressionist painter and dear friend Childe Hassam made her garden famous in his paintings and Thaxter published a book with collected prose and watercolor illustrations of her gardens.

Garden tours will run on Fridays and Sundays beginning June 23, 2023, until August 4, 2023. To register go to https://www.shoalsmarinelaboratory.org/event/celia-thaxters-garden-tours . SML also runs several public programs later in the summer which allow for more exploration of Appledore Island through overnight trips focused on birding, island ecology and an artist’s retreat. For more information go to: https://www.shoalsmarinelaboratory.org/public-education

The University of New Hampshire inspires innovation and transforms lives in our state, nation, and world. More than 16,000 students from all 50 states and 71 countries engage with an award-winning faculty in top-ranked programs in business, engineering, law, health and human services, liberal arts and the sciences across more than 200 programs of study. As one of the nation’s highest-performing research universities, UNH partners with NASA, NOAA, NSF and NIH, and receives more than $110 million in competitive external funding every year to further explore and define the frontiers of land, sea and space.

PHOTOS FOR DOWNLOAD https://www.unh.edu/unhtoday/sites/default/files/media/celia_garden_poppies_rmr.jpg Caption: Iconic view of bright orange poppies blooming in Celia Thaxter’s cottage island garden was captured in a famous painting by impressionist Childe Hassam, one of Thaxter’s dearest friends. Photo credit: Robbin Ray/UNH

https://www.unh.edu/unhtoday/sites/default/files/media/celia_garden_foxgloves.jpg Caption: Foxgloves, in all their glory, are a centerpiece of Celia Thaxter’s island garden on Appledore Island. Garden tours are offered by the Shoals Marine Laboratory from June to August. Photo credit: Robbin Ray/UNH

https://www.unh.edu/unhtoday/sites/default/files/media/celia_garden_jenn_seavey_2019.jpg Caption: Brightly colored flowers sway in the ocean breeze in Celia Thaxter’s garden on Appledore Island. Looking out from the garden it is easy to see why she loved this spot. Photo credit: Jennifer Seavey/SML

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Upcoming Cruises

River, Harbor and Island Tours

Expertly narrated history tours of Portsmouth harbor, the Isles of Shoals and the New Hampshire Seacoast.

Isles of Shoals & Portsmouth Harbor Tour (aboard M/V Challenger)

  Please note this cruise is aboard our smaller vessel the M/V Challenger pictured above. 

No need to print your tickets.  We will have your name and number in your party and check off as you board.

Join us aboard the M/V Challenger for one of our expertly narrated Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth Harbor tours.   Experience the history and beauty of the seacoast and Isles of Shoals with a more intimate view from the Challenger.   

To maximize our time cruising the islands this tour does not stop at the Isles of Shoals.  No disembarking at Star Island. 

Cruise Schedule

• Jul 19, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jul 20, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jul 23, 2024 12:20 PM
• Jul 25, 2024 12:20 PM
• Jul 26, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jul 27, 2024 01:50 PM
• Aug 01, 2024 01:50 PM
• Aug 02, 2024 01:50 PM
• Aug 03, 2024 01:50 PM
• Aug 06, 2024 12:20 PM

Star Island Day Visit & Portsmouth Harbor Tour

This cruise utilizes both our vessels.  Outbound portion is on our smaller vessel the Challenger.  Inbound is aboard our larger vessel the Thomas Laighton.  Star Island visitor fee is included in ticket price.

Spend the day on Star Island. This cruise lets you experience our Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth harbor tour, the Star Island Walking tour and stay for the day on Star Island! You’ll spend approximately 3.75 hours exploring Star Island. Participation in the Walking Tour is optional. 

• Jun 29, 2024 08:50 AM
• Jul 06, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 13, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 15, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 20, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 27, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 03, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 10, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 17, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 24, 2024 09:20 AM

Star Island Walking Tour & Portsmouth Harbor Tour

Star Island visitor fee is included in ticket price.  This cruise allows approximately 1 hour on Star Island.

Enjoy our expertly narrated Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth Harbor Tour with the added bonus of a guided walking tour on Star Island! You'll hear the fascinating history and lore of Portsmouth Harbor as we navigate 10 miles of river and ocean out to Star Island, one of the first footholds for settlement in the new world. Disembark with our tour guide and explore Star Island. Your guide will walk you through over 400 years of rich history including the charting of the Isles in 1614 by Captain John Smith of Jamestown and Pocohontas fame who was given the isles as a reward for his efforts on behalf of the Crown of England. Hear the legend of the pirates Blackbeard and Captain Kidd, and the lady ghost of White Island. In the 1800's, resort hotels were built on Star and Appledore Islands and the Shoals became one of the most popular vacation spots on the New England Coast. You'll see the Oceanic hotel, which rivaled the grandest hotels of the time and is still in operation today. Your tour will take you through the replica of Gosport Village, a fishing outpost dating back to the early 1600s which includes the picturesque Stone Chapel and several cottages. You'll also see the tallest gravestone in the state of New Hampshire, the John Smith Monument, and the Caswell Cemetary. 

The guided walking portion of the tour is optional and you are welcome to explore the island on your own. 

• Jun 19, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jun 21, 2024 12:20 PM
• Jun 22, 2024 11:50 PM
• Jun 26, 2024 10:50 AM
• Jun 28, 2024 12:20 PM
• Jul 01, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jul 03, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jul 04, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jul 05, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jul 06, 2024 11:50 AM

Star Island Walking Tour & Portsmouth Harbor Tour (aboard the Challenger)

This cruise is aboard the M/V Challenger pictured above.  Star Island visitor fee is included in ticket price.  This cruise allows approximately 1 hour on Star Island.

     Enjoy our narrated Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth Harbor Tour with the added bonus of a self guided walking tour on Star Island! You'll hear the fascinating history and lore of Portsmouth Harbor as we navigate 10 miles of river and ocean out to Star Island, one of the first footholds for settlement in the new world.  In the 1800's, Resort hotels were built on Star and Appledore Islands and the Shoals became one of the most popular vacation spots on the New England Coast. You'll see the Oceanic hotel, which rivaled the grandest hotels of the time and is still in operation today. You may walk through the replica of Gosport Village, a fishing outpost dating back to the early 1600s which includes the picturesque Stone Chapel and several cottages. You'll also see the tallest gravestone in the state of New Hampshire, the John Smith Monument, and the Caswell Cemetary.

• Jun 23, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jun 23, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jun 30, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jun 30, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jul 02, 2024 12:20 PM
• Jul 07, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 07, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jul 14, 2024 09:20 AM

Sunset Acoustic Harbor Cruise

Catch the sunset from the best deck in town; aboard the Thomas Laighton.  Have a drink and unwind while listening to live acoustic entertainment.  A perfect end to your week.

BAGS (including large purses) and BACKPACKS ARE NOT ALLOWED ONBOARD. 

CASH ONLY BAR!

• Jun 30, 2024 07:00 PM
• Jul 07, 2024 07:00 PM
• Jul 14, 2024 07:00 PM
• Jul 28, 2024 07:00 PM
• Aug 04, 2024 07:00 PM
• Aug 11, 2024 06:20 PM
• Aug 18, 2024 06:20 PM
• Aug 25, 2024 06:20 PM
• Sep 01, 2024 05:50 PM

Extended Star Island Walking Tour

Enjoy our expertly narrated Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth Harbor Tour with the added bonus of a guided walking tour on Star Island! You'll hear the fascinating history and lore of Portsmouth Harbor as we navigate 10 miles of river and ocean out to Star Island, one of the first footholds for settlement in the new world. Disembark with our tour guide and explore Star Island. Your guide will walk you through over 400 years of rich history including the charting of the Isles in 1614 by Captain John Smith of Jamestown and Pocohontas fame who was given the isles as a reward for his efforts on behalf of the Crown of England. Hear the legend of the pirates Blackbeard and Captain Kidd, and the lady ghost of White Island. In the 1800's Resort hotels were built on Star and Appledore Islands and the Shoals became one of the most popular vacation spots on the New England Coast. You'll see the Oceanic hotel, which rivaled the grandest hotels of the time and is still in operation today. Your tour will take you through the replica of Gosport Village, a fishing outpost dating back to the early 1600s which includes the picturesque Stone Chapel and several cottages. You'll also see the tallest gravestone in the state of New Hampshire, the John Smith Monument, and the Caswell Cemetary. After your walking tour you'll have time to visit the giftshop, bookstore, and snack bar in the hotel if you'd like. 

The guided walking portion of the tour is optional and you are welcome to explore the island on your own. This cruise allows approximately 1.5 hours on Star Island. 

• Aug 31, 2024 08:50 AM

Isles of Shoals & Portsmouth Harbor Tour

Join us aboard the M/V Thomas Laighton for one of our expertly narrated Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth Harbor tours. Experience the history and beauty of the seacoast, Portsmouth harbor and the little known, but historically crucial, Isles of Shoals.

This cruise does not disembark passengers at Star Island. 

• May 23, 2024 01:50 PM
• May 25, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 01, 2024 11:50 AM
• Jun 05, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 08, 2024 09:50 AM
• Jun 13, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 15, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 20, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 24, 2024 01:50 PM
• Jun 27, 2024 01:50 PM

Star Island (pre-season) Walking Tour and Portsmouth Harbor Tour

This is pre-season for Star Island, so most of the facilities won't be open.  The walking tour is not affected. 

• May 12, 2024 01:20 PM
• May 18, 2024 11:50 AM
• May 26, 2024 11:50 AM
• May 27, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jun 02, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jun 09, 2024 01:20 PM
• Jun 16, 2024 09:20 AM

Star Island Extended Day Visit

Spend the day on Star Island. This cruise lets you experience our Isles of Shoals and Portsmouth harbor tour, the Star Island Walking tour and stay for the day on Star Island! You’ll spend approximately 5 hours exploring Star Island. Participation in the Walking Tour is optional. 

• Jul 21, 2024 09:20 AM
• Jul 28, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 04, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 11, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 18, 2024 09:20 AM
• Aug 25, 2024 09:20 AM

Special Events

Special events are even more magical on the M/V Thomas Laighton!

Sunset Harbor Cruise aboard the Challenger

This cruise is aboard our smaller vessel the Challenger.

Catch a gorgeous sunset aboard the M/V Challenger.  Have a drink and unwind.  In lieu of a narrated tour, background music is provided. 

BAGS (including large purses) and BACKPACKS ARE NOT ALLOWED ONBOARD.

• Jul 03, 2024 07:45 PM

Party Ships

Come join us on the best Party Ship on the Seacoast! The M/V Thomas Laighton steams through the Piscataqua River and Portsmouth Harbor on this 21 and over party ship. 

The best party on the Seacoast is aboard the M/V Thomas Laighton!   This cruise is 21+ and a valid state issued photo ID is required. Bags are subject to search. 

BARS ARE CASH ONLY!! ATM available prior to boarding the vessel. 

• May 24, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jun 08, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jun 14, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jun 28, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jul 03, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jul 05, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jul 06, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jul 12, 2024 07:30 PM
• Jul 20, 2024 07:30 PM

UNH Graduation Party Cruise!!

*Bars are cash only on the boat

Come celebrate UNH graduation in style aboard the M/V Thomas Laighton. Our DJs will be playing the best dance music and our bartenders will be slinging great drink specials all night long. Round trip transportation is included with your ticket. Our buses will pick you up in A lot at 6:00pm (check in starts at 5:30) and bring you to our dock. At the end of the evening you'll be bused home and dropped off downtown so you can continue the celebration. This event is 21+ and for UNH students only. You must have a valid state issued photo ID to board the vessel. No backpacks, alcohol or other illegal substances permitted.  

• May 13, 2024 07:00 PM
• May 14, 2024 07:00 PM
• May 15, 2024 07:00 PM
• May 16, 2024 07:00 PM

The M/V Thomas Laighton is one of the most unique venues available for your special event. Our 300 capacity passenger vessel truly is a "floating function facility" that can adapt to any type of special event from weddings and rehearsal dinners to company outings and celebratory parties. The best part about chartering our vessel (besides the breathtaking views and tremendous service) is that the boat and all of its amenities are yours alone.

Visit the Isles of Shoals

Spend the perfect summer day admiring the Isles of Shoals, a group of New Hampshire and Maine islands roughly seven miles out to sea.

By Aimee Tucker

Aug 17 2017

SEE MORE: Visit Star Island and the Oceanic Hotel Star Island Daytrip Itinerary

Aimee Tucker

As Digital Editor of New England.com, Aimee writes, manages, and promotes content for NewEngland.com and its social media channels. Before this role, she served as assistant, then associate, editor for Yankee Magazine and YankeeMagazine.com, where she was nominated for a City and Regional Magazine Association award for Best Blog. A lifelong New Englander, Aimee loves history, the New Hampshire seacoast, and a good Massachusetts South Shore bar pizza.

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An insider’s guide to the Isles of Shoals

A bird’s-eye view of Star Island. Photo by Bruce Parsons

By Jack Farrell

The Isles of Shoals have loomed large in my life since my father first took me to Star Island in 1959 at the age of four. As I have previously related in these pages, my recollection of the Oceanic Hotel rising from the green lawn at the end of the pier is one of my earliest memories. My father was a history buff, an avid reader, a writer in the tradition of the New England Transcendentalists, and a lover of regional lore and history. He spent many of his early summers at Boar’s Head in Hampton, where the loom of the lighthouse on White Island at the Shoals would dominate his nightly view across the water. He was naturally drawn to the Shoals for their history, mystery, and connection to the arts in nineteenth-century America (with the likes of Emerson, Hawthorne, Whittier, Jewett, Hassam and many more).

Our annual trips to Star Island were the highlight of my early summers, and in many ways, they shaped my life to come. My father, who had high professional hopes for my younger brother and me, might view the last fourteen years of my working life with a trace of chagrin. But I’m certain he would also understand how I could have been drawn into working in and around these quirky, wondrous, mythical islands which meant so much to him. Either way, I’m a Shoals insider now – no longer a tourist on the day-tripper boat. Here is my brief and rambling insider’s guide for cruising visitors to these islands:

Anchoring challenges

One of the biggest challenges to cruisers visiting the Shoals is the lack of moorings and the poor holding ground for anchoring. There are no public or rental moorings available in Gosport Harbor – or anywhere else at the Isles of Shoals. The private moorings belong to local yacht clubs, individuals and the islanders themselves who use them regularly throughout the summer. The bottom is mostly rocky and kelp-strewn. The water is very deep through the harbor, and where it isn’t, the moorings are too close together to allow secure anchoring with sufficient swinging room. In a strong westerly, the harbor becomes a dangerous maritime box canyon with an unforgiving lee shore of boulders and ledge. Because of these limitations, my advice is to avoid Saturday visits altogether when chaos reigns, as too many visitors compete to stake false claims on other people’s moorings. On other days of the week, there are always vacant moorings and some room to anchor carefully. The unspoken tradition is that a vacant mooring may be used by a visitor if the rightful owner is not in need of it. Stay with the boat or keep a close eye out in case you need to move. In a strong westerly, capable cruisers anchor in the cove between Smuttynose and Cedar to the east of the breakwater in shallow water with a sandy bottom.

Approach to the islands from the west is straightforward. Run for the red and white IS bell and continue into Gosport Harbor. From the southeast, come in between Star and White, paying close attention to the red nun marking Halfway Rock between Star and Lunging. Leave it to starboard to avoid the rock. (I have personally rescued more than one pilgrim who left it to port.) Approaches through the Gut between Smuttynose and Appledore are feasible but challenging in big seas from the east. Favor the Smuttynose shore, as a ledge works out halfway into the Gut from Appledore. If you are coming from the east, be very careful around Duck Island, especially on its northern, southern, and western edges, as ledges make out a long way from shore, and the swell can be impressive.

Star Island is the unofficial capital of the Isles of Shoals. The site of a family conference center operated under the principles of the Unitarian and Congregational Churches, Star discouraged outside visitors for many years. (I have my own stories of unwelcoming behavior at Star from the recent past.) But all that has changed, and visitors are welcome throughout the season. On summer weekends, the island runs a launch service on the comely Thomas Dudley, which can be hailed on VHF channel 9. Landing of skiffs may be possible, but the dock can be very busy, so check with the dock attendant or go to the front desk up the grand stairs of the Oceanic Hotel and check in. Star Island may also have a free guest mooring available for use at your own risk. Star Island is a struggling non-profit, and the conscientious visitor will make a generous donation to support the services and maintenance of the historic island.

A rich and often dark history

The Oceanic Hotel on Star features a snack bar, a bookstore and a gift shop. The bookstore provides island history and guides which reveal some of the rich stories, traditions, and myths of the Shoals (piracy, murder, smugglers, shipwrecks, European conquest and ghosts, to name just a few) and should not be missed.

If space is available, cruisers may dine and even stay the night at the hotel. There is a snack bar and a shoreside grill with open hours and other information available at the hotel’s front desk. Ask there also about sustainability tours of island infrastructure (including the largest off-grid solar array in New England), access to the Vaughn Museum and Rutledge Marine Lab, and the weekly staff variety show. Do not visit Star Island without at least looking into the historic stone chapel. My recommendation is to spend a few quiet moments inside with a backdrop of calling gulls, and waves rolling in from Portugal to encourage relaxation and reflection.

Star is also the place for emergency aid. In summer, there is a professionally staffed medical clinic. Water, ice, gasoline and diesel may be available for those, especially in need. Mainland ferry connections and delivery arrangements can also be made at the hotel front desk to Portsmouth and Rye, New Hampshire.

Dogs are not allowed on any of the islands, except for Malaga. Malaga is joined to Smuttynose at low tide. Smuttynose and Malaga are owned by a Shoals legacy family, now under conservation easement and managed by volunteer stewards. Access is by small boat only, on the beach, inside the breakwater. The stewards will greet you and show you the ropes. Smuttynose was once the site of great commerce and the Isles’ first hotel. Some say it was also a haven for smugglers. It is also known for the grisly murders of the late nineteenth century made famous in the book and film “Weight of Water.” The original and unadorned story of the murders is available at the Star Island bookstore. A recent archeological dig on the island revealed evidence of human habitation going back 10,000 years. A walk from the beach on the rugged trail to the eastern tip of the island is worth your time.

Between Smuttynose and Star Island, and connected by breakwaters, is privately-owned Cedar Island. Visitors to Cedar are discouraged, but if you see the big, red lobster boat, Norman and Mary, in the harbor, you may ask to purchase some Shoals lobster from one of its owners or his children.

You may notice that the Gosport Harbor breakwaters are losing their battle with the waves. The Army Corps of Engineers is planning a rebuild of these essential structures, likely for 2023. Imagine how challenging maritime activities would have been in this harbor before the breakwaters were first constructed in the 1830s, at a time when the islands were the base for scores of large schooners exploiting the rich cod fishery and supporting the islands’ eight hundred or more residents.

Lunging Island is a small private island to the west of Star. It was the site of a sixteenth-century British trading post. The main structure, known as the Honeymoon Cottage, was frequented by wedding guests from the nearby hotel on Appledore Island in its heyday. The owner tells me that visitors will be welcomed when he is on the island. Access is by skiff only in the cove on the eastern shore.

Appledore Island

Appledore Island, owned in large part by the Star Island Corporation, is home to the Shoals Marine Laboratory, which is operated jointly by Cornell University and the University of New Hampshire. The lab provides a research base for scholars and summer undergraduate programs in ocean sciences. A wind generator, a radar tower from World War II, and the remains of a lifesaving station dominate the Appledore skyline. A visit to the reconstructed garden of poet Celia Thaxter makes a nice outing. Four private homes are located on the southern shore, the only evidence of a failed real estate development that would have built a hundred summer cottages on the 95-acre island in the early twentieth century. In the middle part of the nineteenth century, Appledore was home to the expansive luxury hotel that provided the base for the legendary arts and social scene of the Shoals. Steamships from Boston, New York and Philadelphia brought visitors throughout the summer as guests of the Laighton family. When the hotel was lost to fire, the desperate Laightons tried to keep the banks at bay through lot sales but eventually lost the fight. The undeveloped portions of Appledore are now being considered for a conservation easement. The Marine Lab monitors VHF channel 80 and may allow landing in your dinghy.

White and Seavey are connected at low tide. Seavey is the site of a successful habitat restoration project for terns. The terns are noisy and aggressive, especially in the first half of the summer. White Island is the site of the Isles of Shoals Lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington but not constructed until the Jefferson presidency. In the worst storms, waves crash over the top of the light tower. Landing on White is extremely difficult due to the rocky shore and constant surge. Approach – if you must – from the north in a small and nimble boat. A state mooring may be available just off the ledges. Land in the cove where the steel ramp descends from the keeper’s house. You will likely need to wade. The island is usually managed by tern program scientists and volunteer stewards who will escort you to the impressive tower with its equally impressive view.

Duck Island is barely an island at all, though it once supported a fisherman’s cottage and was favored by early Shoalers for the abundance of waterfowl. Duck was a target site for Naval bombing practice until the 1960s, and unexploded ordinance is said to be a continuing threat to visitors. The outlying ledges make an approach from any direction dangerous except in a small boat. The island is home to an expanding seal population of over five hundred in peak season, most grey seals. Along with the seals come the sharks. For all these reasons, the mariner is advised to view Duck and its wildlife from a respectful distance. Duck Island is under conservation easement managed by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust.

Working to keep these islands safe and functioning is tiring and often frustrating. But the rewards of being out here to experience the variety of scenes and seasons, from the sublime to the terrible, keep us coming back and draw more and more visitors every year. A retiring colleague from Appledore sent me a nice message the other day recognizing my own contributions to this special place. I wish I knew my father’s address in whatever Transcendental heaven he landed those fifty-two years ago so I could forward it to him. But maybe he already has it. Or maybe he’s been out here the whole time. Either way, I invite you to come out and feel the magic of the Isles of Shoals sometime soon.

Jack is a USCG 100-ton master and the facilities director at Star Islands at the Isles of Shoals, where Aloft, his Ted Hood-designed wooden sloop, lives most of the summer.

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Isles of Shoals

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Isles of Shoals - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

Island Tour

Star Island is located ten miles off the coast of New Hampshire. It is the second largest of the nine islands that make up the Isles of Shoals and its historic Oceanic House and adjacent buildings become the village home for thousands of visitors each summer. The nonprofit Star Island Corporation has owned and operated Star Island since 1916, providing affordable individual and family retreats. From June to September guests come for a day, an overnight visit or to attend one of the many conferences presented each summer on a range of subjects such as natural history, writing, photography, music, painting, ecology, matters of the spirit, yoga and more. And because Star Island has historic connections to Unitarian Universalism and the United Church of Christ, it has a liberal spiritual quality that is renewing and uplifting.

Hop on a boat from Rye Harbor or Portsmouth  for a day trip and you’ll soon find yourself in Gosport Harbor, where the Isles of Shoals offer a glimpse of life as it was in the nineteenth century. Here you can leave 21st century technology and demands behind as time stands still.

Caught the island spirit? Consider a week-long summer conference. Mid-June through Labor Day, there’s something for everyone—from arts and natural history to world affairs, science and spirituality.

Short on time? Try a weekend or mid-week conference in early September when the weather is beautiful.

Star Island becomes a lifelong tradition for many folks who come back, year after year, to experience the island magic with their families, generation to generation. Once you’ve come, you’ll remember Star for a lifetime. The cry of the gulls, the pristine beauty, the history, will stay with you long after you return home.

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Shoals Safari: Visiting the Isles of Shoals, NH

Roughly seven miles from Portsmouth, the Isles of Shoals makes a fascinating daytrip, whether you bring your own boat or get there via the Isles of Shoals Steamship Company , which sails out of Portsmouth Harbor.

These guided trips allow visitors to disembark at Star Island, once the home of a grand hotel of the 19th century and now a venue for conferences, weddings, and betterment programs coordinated by the Star Island Corporation . Tours allow time to stroll past the restored hotel buildings and a historic garden, as well as take in the stunning coastal views and imagine what life must have been like for early Shoals residents.

Prices range from $30 to $40.

• Search Shoals Marine Lab
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Step back in time and experience the unique beauty of Celia Thaxter's Appledore Island! Experience the serenity of Celia Thaxter’s garden by the sea. Visit the Laighton family cemetery and learn their history with many of the islands in the Isles of Shoals. Hike the paths Celia herself wandered and explore the cultural history of the Appledore Hotel.

Although fire claimed Celia’s cottage, piazza, and garden in 1914 along with many of the original hotel buildings, the garden and piazza are reconstructed and maintained by Shoals Marine Laboratory. The garden sits just where it was during Celia's lifetime and the raised beds and flowers follow the plan laid out in her acclaimed book,  An Island Garden . Some of Celia's original plants are still in the garden: the snowdrops, the hops vine, and day lilies. Six-foot tall hollyhocks spill down to the water's edge, and brilliant red poppies are planted each year so that the garden echoes the famous paintings of impressionist Childe Hassam.

Celia Thaxter's Garden Tour participants (33 per tour) will be transported to and from Appledore Island aboard the Research Vessel  Gulf Challenger . Passengers should plan to meet the vessel at  UNH's Judd Gregg Marine Research Complex  adjacent to the U.S. Coast Guard Station in New Castle, NH.  As a part of this unique tour, you will enjoy a fully-catered lunch in Shoals Marine Laboratory's dining facilities at Kiggins Commons, offering expansive water views and an open deck should you wish to dine en plein air!

Important information:  This tour involves a 45-minute boat trip aboard a research vessel and requires 2-3 miles of walking over a rugged island environment. Please read the below information carefully before purchasing tickets.

2024 Tours 

Tour details, price $125 for 2024 season.

$125 per person  (sorry, no group discounts available). All-inclusive package covers round-trip boat transportation, guided garden tours, and a catered lunch (includes beverages and dessert, served buffet style with vegetarian options available). FREE parking is available! You will receive trip confirmation details from SML after you register for a tour.

(603) 862-5346 mainland office, (603) 724-3404 island office (weekends) [email protected]

• Plan to arrive at the UNH Pier between  8:00 - 8:30am  for check-in and orientation.
• The trip will depart for Appledore Island promptly at  9:00am .
• Trip participants return to the pier in New Castle by  3:30pm .

Departure Location

• Cruises depart from  UNH's Judd Gregg Marine Research Complex , which is next to the U.S. Coast Guard Station at Fort Point in New Castle, NH.
• Follow this link for  directions to the dock  in New Castle, NH where you will be boarding UNH's R/V  Gulf Challenger .
• Parking at the dock is free but limited! If you are traveling in a group, please make every effort to carpool.

Required Release Forms

• After you register for your tour, you will receive a confirmation email with a link to required waivers and forms. These must be completed for each traveler prior to arriving at the island. The forms may also be found here.
• If you are unable to access these forms, please let us know.

Know Before You Go

Island environment.

Appledore Island is a rugged landscape with uneven, slightly steep and rocky paths. Access on/off the island is via a floating dock, a steep ramp, and a set of stairs. Participants must be in good physical condition and should be prepared to spend a majority of the day walking (approximately 2-3 miles). Toilet facilities are available at the dock in New Castle and on Appledore Island.

About the Vessel

Access to the vessel is via a steep floating ramp, and the slope of the ramp varies with the tide. Because the R/V  Gulf Challenger  is a working research vessel, it does not provide amenities commonly found on a regular passenger vessel. Participants should be prepared to stand for the duration of the trip to and from Appledore Island (~45 minutes one-way) and will have limited protection from sun, rain or sea spray. There is limited seating available in the vessel's cabin (below deck), and the cabin is only accessible via a steep set of stairs. Toilet facilities on the vessel, in addition to being small, are accessed via the steep set of stairs. Participants are encouraged to use the toilet facilities located at UNH's Judd Gregg Marine Research Complex prior to boarding the vessel.

Accommodations

Participants requiring special accommodations, such as the use of an American Sign Language interpreter or assistive listening device, should contact us at  [email protected]  or 603-862-5346. A two-week notice for an interpreter is required. Due to the content of this tour, it is recommended that participants be 14 years or older.

Click here to view the gallery of our facilities and terrain.  For your convenience, we have assembled a gallery of images showing the docks at UNH and SML, the deck and interior of the R/V  Gulf Challenger , and the rocky Appledore landscape.

Weather Advisory

Please be advised that Garden Tours may be cancelled on short notice due to inclement weather or dangerous sea conditions. This decision could be made as late as the morning of the tour if conditions deteriorate. In the event of cancellation, a rain date tour or a full refund will be offered. Cancellation notices will be circulated via email, so please be sure the email you use to register is accurate. We make every effort to operate our tours as scheduled, but feel it is important to emphasize that Garden Tours are weather-dependent!

Those registered for a tour that is cancelled due to weather will be contacted about rain date options.

Cancellation Policy

Should participants cancel their own reservation, refunds are as follows for cancellations received:

• At least 30 days before departure = 100% refund
• 29-15 days before departure =  50% refund
• Less than 15 days before departure = 0% refund

More Information on Celia Thaxter's Garden

• Garden Overview
• Peter E. Randall's documentary film  Celia Thaxter's Island Garden
• UNH magazine article with beautiful photographs

Shoals Marine Lab

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Celia Thaxter's Garden

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Celia Thaxter's Garden Guide - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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• Search Shoals Marine Lab
• Director's Welcome
• Shoals 101 & FAQ
• Mission, Strategic Plan, and Impact
• Island History
• Facilities & Campus
• Celia Thaxter's Garden
• Sustainability
• Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion
• Safety at Shoals
• Meet our Staff
• Photo Galleries
• Getting to Shoals
• Undergraduate
• High School
• Marine Science Resources
• Teaching at Shoals
• Science at Shoals
• Undergraduate Research Opportunities
• Scientist-in-Residence Fellowship
• Visiting Researchers
• Research Resources
• Research Apprenticeship
• Celia Thaxter's Garden Tours
• Appledore Island Walking Tours
• Overnight Programs
• Marine Science for Teachers
• Artist-In-Residence Program
• Rock Talk Seminar Series
• Visiting Groups
• Join our Newsletter
• Alumni & Friends Association
• Volunteer Weekend
• In the News
• Work for Shoals
• Corporate Sponsorship
• Give to Shoals

Shoals Marine Laboratory (SML) is a remote field station located on Appledore Island, Maine, jointly operated by Cornell University and the University of New Hampshire. As a leader in marine science undergraduate education, SML offers endless learning and research opportunities for students, interns, and members of the broader scientific community.

Director's Welcome

For over 50 years, Shoals Marine Laboratory on Appledore Island, Maine has been a proud leader in marine science education, research, and outreach, distinguished by our top-notch academic programing and innovative collaborations.

DIRECTOR'S WELCOME

Mission, Strategic Plan and Impact

The mission of Shoals Marine Laboratory is to provide education and research programs in a supportive environment. Read more about our mission, strategic plan and goals for the future. SML's 2020 Impact Report highlights our ongoing education, research, and outreach efforts. Read the full report and learn about the experience we provide to our students, researchers, and community.

MISSION, STRATEGIC PLAN AND IMPACT

Diversity, Equity and Inclusion

At SML, we believe the sustainability of our oceans depends on embracing a rich diversity of talent, perspectives, cultures, and experiences.

DIVERSITY, EQUITY AND INCLUSION

Meet Our Staff

Get contact info and brief job descriptions for the permanent staff members that make all SML programs and operations possible!

MEET OUR STAFF

1973 Class Lecture. Photo: Steve Anderson Collection

Appledore Island

Although SML has a fascinating history since its establishment in 1966, Appledore Island possesses an even richer human and natural history that dates back centuries.

APPLEDORE ISLAND

Live Island Stats

Appledore webcam.

View a live feed of our island campus from the Radar Tower!

Sustainability Dashboard

Appledore's power grid, including solar, wind, generator, and battery status, has a live usage dashboard .

Tide Charts

Tides for Gosport Harbor, NH Tides for Portsmouth, NH

Current Weather

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Shoals Marine Lab

• Tuition & Fees
• Financial Support & Scholarships
• Shoals Semester
• SML Course Proposal
• Fisheries Science Internship
• Gull Population Biology Internship
• Intertidal Ecology Internship
• Marine Mammals Internship
• Parasite Ecology Internship
• Seabird Ecology and Conservation Internship
• Sustainability Communications Internship
• Sustainable Engineering Internship
• Sustainable Lobster Bait Internship
• Data Archives
• Publications
• Alumni & Friends Weekend
• Seasonal Seabird Technicians
• Teaching Assistants
• Student Staff Application