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Basque Country is unlike the rest of Spain - here's 10 reasons to visit

Sep 24, 2021 • 6 min read

San Sebastián is eager to welcome travelers back © Ivan Soto Cobos / Shutterstock

Basque Country , in case you haven't heard, isn't like the rest of Spain .

Proudly perched on the northern Atlantic coast, near the border of France, the fabled region – locally known as Euskadi or País Vasco (‘the land of Basque Speakers’) – has its own language, its own culinary traditions and a distinctive geographic and cultural landscape.

With COVID-19 travel restrictions from the US to Spain recently eased , Basque Country brims with an eager and warm welcome back. Make sure to read up on the latest COVID-19 travel guidelines on Spain's Ministry of Health’s website here  prior to booking your trip. 

Once you're all clear, here's a guide to get started with the best of the Basque, from fairytale villages to modern architectural wonders and so much more. Here are our 10 favorite reasons to visit Basque Country now.

San Sebastián, the best place in the world to eat

You shouldn’t need extra motivation to visit San Sebastián – the impossibly lovely seaside metropolis is widely considered one of the best places to eat in the world.

This designation brings with it a packed calendar of events that enlivens the city throughout the year, from a human rights festival each April to the famous film festival in September that attracts Hollywood stars to a Jazz festival in the warm summer month of July.  Explore the city and its cultural offerings on two wheels: the bicycle is one of the city's favorite modes of transportation.

World-class wining and dining

It's estimated that Basque people spend more than twice as much of their disposable income on food as people do in the United States. Step into any bar and look at the lavish spread of pintxos  (small snacks) and you'll understand why. The region's cuisine, built around authentic and local products like grilled lamb, cured meats, salt cod, sheep's and goat's cheese, piquillo peppers, artichokes and fresh anchovies, to name a few, is rightfully world-famous.

You can swing high or low: Basque Country is home to the second-most Michelin star-restaurants per capita, but you'll be just as happy sampling finger food and sipping Basque cider or txakoli , a sparkling white wine typically served as an aperitif, at a bustling corner bar that's been run by the same family for generations.

The spellbinding curves of the Guggenheim Bilbao

Gleaming and otherworldly, the Guggenheim Bilbao is more than an art museum: it’s a modern architectural landmark, a stylized ode to the city’s shipbuilding past and an unmistakable emblem of Bilbao itself. When Frank Gehry's masterpiece opened in 1997 – on the banks of the Rio Nervión, in a derelict and highly polluted area that was previously an industrial wasteland – it was a symbol of revitalization and the dawn of a new era for the city. Stroll along the riverfront promenade for spectacular views of the museum's sculptural exterior.

A road trip  that winds the clifftops of the coast

To experience the enchantment of the Basque coastline , you'll want to rent a car and explore the dramatic clifftop landscape at your own pace. Take the scenic route from Bilbao to San Sebastián ; this unforgettable road trip leads you through a string of traditional fishing villages with names you'll struggle to pronounce, from tiny Elantxobe to drop-dead gorgeous Lekeitio to Getaria , the hometown of the fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga (there's a great museum dedicated to his oeuvre). All of the towns along this stretch feature great pintxo bars and quiet medieval streets that invite a leisurely wander.

Basque Country's truly unique identity

If you follow the news, you know that Basque nationalism is a point of controversy in Spain. But that regional pride could be read as an expression of cultural independence: though mystery surrounds the topic, confounding anthropologists and archeologists, Basque people are believed to be descendants of the original human inhabitants of the European continent. Their culture is characterized by thoroughly unique traditions, including Euskara, the Basque language. It predates the Romans and it bears no relation to languages spoken elsewhere in Europe.

Travelers will hear Euskara spoken throughout Basque country, and see the language – with its own alphabet and dedicated typeface – printed everywhere from the train station schedule to newspapers and cafe menus. Luckily, most words are also printed in a language that's much easier to decipher – Spanish.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe's s tairway to heaven

It's a small journey, getting to the ninth-century religious site of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – a zigzag walk down a steep hill, passage across the Bay of Biscay via a picturesque stone footbridge, and a hike up 241 steps, to be exact. But the views from the top of the island make the effort worthwhile.

Gaztelugatxe derives from the Basque gaztelu (castle) and aitz (rock or crag). Even though the original hilltop church, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, was demolished and rebuilt, ‘castle rock’ remains an apt description of this quintessentially Basque landmark.

Take in sweeping views of the dramatic coastline and the crashing waves below, and keep your eye out for Basque fishermen making the pilgrimage along with the tourists: it's a local tradition to hike to the church and ask for the saint's blessing for a bountiful season ahead.

Trail magic happens all the time on Spain's best hikes

The storied, cobblestone streets of Vitoria-Gasteiz

The Basque capital doesn't see as many international visitors as Bilbao or San Sebastián – all the more reason to spend a few days exploring the cobblestone streets and pintxo bars of pretty Vitoria-Gasteiz . Highlights include the postcard-perfect historic center, considered the best-preserved medieval center in Basque Country, and the 13th-century Cathedral Santa María, a Gothic landmark perched at the summit of the old town.

Gernika's historical relevance 

Even if your knowledge of art is limited, you've likely seen Guernica , Pablo Picasso's powerful mural depicting the violence and chaos of war. It's widely thought to be a response to the 1937 bombing of Gernika, a Basque village, during the Spanish Civil War. Today, you can visit the site yourself, stopping into the excellent Museo de la Paz de Gernika for an overview of wartime events and the town's significance in the greater context of Basque culture.

The chance to 'hang ten' at Mundaka

The waves at Mundaka, on Basque Country's central coast , have long been regarded as the best waves in all of Europe. The natural geography – a sandbar formed by an estuary – forms fast, hollow waves that some surfers have called the finest in the world. If you're not up to the challenge, watch the spectacle from the town's harbor walls.

The full-bodied wines of the region

You'll see the names of Basque Country's premiere wine-growing centers – Samaniego, Laguardia, Elciego, Labastida – scrawled on chalkboards at bars and cafes all over the region. Sample a Tempranillo or two before heading into the Rioja Alavesa wine region to see how they're made. Of particular interest are the stunning medieval city of Laguardia and the wineries around it, including Bodegas Ysios and its futuristic ‘temple dedicated to wine’ by Santiago Calatrava.

Can't get enough of that seductive pairing of fine wine and modern architecture? Don't miss the Bodegas Marqués de Riscal in Elciego, specializing in full-bodied reds produced from the old vines, and its whimsical Frank Gehry-designed hotel.

This article was originally published on August 20, 2019.

You might also like: 8 unmissable cities to visit in Spain    8 incredible national parks in Spain    How to get around in Spain

This article was first published July 2019 and updated September 2021

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The Pays Basque

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The three Basque provinces – Labourd (Lapurdi), Basse Navarre (Behe Nafarroa) and Soule (Zuberoa) – share with their Spanish neighbours a common language – Euskera – and a strong sense of identity. The language is widely spoken, and Basques refer to their country as Euskal-herri (or, across the border in Spain, Euskadi). You’ll see bilingual French/Euskera toponym signage and posters throughout the region (sometimes only in Euskera), so in this section we have given the Euskera for all locations in brackets after the French.

Basque country cuisine

Biarritz beaches, ossau-iraty cheese, st-jean-de-luz.

Apart from the language and the traditional broad beret, the most obvious manifestations of Basque national identity are the ubiquitous trinquets (enclosed) or frontons (open) concrete courts in which the national game of pelota is played. Pairs of players wallop a hard leather-covered ball, either with their bare hands or a long basket-work extension of the hand called a chistera (in the variation known as cesta punta ), against a high wall blocking one end of the court. It’s extraordinarily dangerous – the ball travels at speeds of up to 200kph – and knockouts or worse are not uncommon.

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Although Basque cooking shares many of the dishes of the southwest and the central Pyrenees – in particular garbure , a thick potato, carrot, bean, cabbage and turnip soup enlivened with pieces of pork, ham or duck – it does have distinctive recipes. One of the best known is the Basque omelette, pipérade , made with tomatoes, peppers and often Bayonne ham, and actually more like scrambled eggs. Another delicacy is sweet red peppers, or piquillos, stuffed whole with morue (salt cod). Poulet basquaise is also common, especially as takeaway food: pieces of chicken browned in pork fat and casseroled in a sauce of tomato, ground Espelette chillis, onions and a little white wine. In season there’s a chance of salmi de palombe , an onion-and-wine-based stew of wild doves netted or shot as they migrate north over the Pyrenees.

With the Atlantic adjacent, seafood is also a speciality. The Basques inevitably have their version of fish soup, called ttoro . Another great delicacy is elvers or piballes, caught as they come up the Atlantic rivers. Squid are common, served here as txiperons , either in their own ink, stuffed and baked or stewed with onion, tomato, peppers and garlic. All the locally caught fish – tuna ( thon ), sea bass ( bor ), sardines ( sardines ) and anchovies ( anchois ) – are regular favourites, too.

Cheeses mainly comprise the delicious ewe’s-milk tommes and gasna from the high pastures of the Pyrenees. Puddings include the Gâteau Basque , an almond-custard pie often garnished with preserved black cherries from Itxassou. As for alcohol , the only Basque AOC wine is the very drinkable Irouléguy – as red, white or rosé – while the local digestif liqueur is the potent green or yellow Izzara.

Bayonne (Baïona) stands back some 5km from the Atlantic, a position that until recently protected it from any real touristic exploitation. The city is effectively the economic and political capital of the Pays Basque and to the lay person, at least, its Basque flavour predominates, with tall half-timbered dwellings and woodwork painted in the traditional green and red.

Sitting astride the confluence of the River Ardour and the much smaller Nive, Bayonne is a small-scale, easily manageable city, at the hub of all major road and rail routes from the north and east. Although there are no great sights, it’s a pleasure to walk the narrow streets of the old town, which is still wrapped in the fortifications of Sébastien le Preste de Vauban , Louis XIV’s military engineer.

Up until the 1950s, Biarritz (Miarritze) was the Monte-Carlo of the Atlantic coast, transformed by Napoléon III during the mid-nineteenth century into a playground for monarchs, aristos and glitterati. With the 1960s rise of the Côte d’Azur, however, the place went into seemingly terminal decline, despite having been discovered by the first surfers in 1957. But from the early 1990s, Biarritz was rediscovered by Parisian yuppies, a new generation of the international surfing fraternity and a slightly alternative family clientele, who together have put the place back on the map.

The focus of Biarritz is the Casino Municipal , just behind the Grande Plage , now restored to its 1930s grandeur, while inland the town forms a surprisingly amorphous, workaday sprawl, where you’ll find fancy shops and restaurants on main drags and cosier eateries light up the otherwise tenebrous side streets after sundown. By day, the main draw is the town's six beaches , of which three are suitable for surfing.

Of Biarritz’s six beaches, three are surfable , although in summer months and especially at weekends there’s not always a lot of space in the water. Parking is near impossible at any time of the year, let alone summer so consider taking the free navette service.

Grande Plage is the legendary beach to show off your board and sun tan; it’s sited on the north edge of the old town by the famous casino. With its golden sand, beautiful views and famous backdrop, people come in their droves to see and be seen. Consequently restrictions on the number of bathers and surfers come in to force at busier times. Plage Miramar , extending north east of Grande Plage, offers more space but deadly currents so there’s no surfing here. Plage Marbella and Plage de la Côte des Basques , south of the rocky outcrop, have two clear kilometres of sand and surf although the latter loses its sandy beach at high tide leaving perilous rocks to circumnavigate the way back to land. A number of surf schools and board-hire companies can be found at the north end near the old town.

Plage Port Vieux , a petite little cove beach in the old town that has gentle waves and Plage Milady on the southern edge of town are ideal for non-surfing beachgoers and families. The latter has better parking provisions and a playground although the waves can still be pretty choppy.

Native to the Basque country and Bearn, this AOC ewe’s cheese , with its delightfully nutty flavour, is developed in the summer-grazing huts extending along the Basque coast up to the Col d’Aubisqe in the Pyrenees national park. Look out for Route du Fromage signs while travelling about the Basque hinterland and buy direct from the shepherds themselves. The true artisan cheese often has small holes and should not stick to the palate.

With its fine sandy bay – the most protected of the Basque beaches – and magnificent old quarter speckled with half-timbered mansions, St-Jean-de-Luz (Donibane Lohitzun) remains the most attractive resort on the Basque coast, despite being fairly overrun by holidaying families in peak season. As the only natural harbour between Arcachon and Spain, it has long been a major port, with whaling and cod-fishing the traditional occupations of its fleets. Even now, St-Jean remains one of France's busiest fisheries, and the principal one for landing anchovy and tuna.

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12 Great Places to Visit in the French Pays Basque

The Basque people have been living in this part of Europe for thousands of years, giving them plenty of time to evolve their very individual culture. In the French Pays Basque this is evident through their language, their food, their sport, their architecture, and their use of the land. The following sites and attractions will lift the lid on a region that is unashamedly Basque first and French second.

Related article: Great Travel Destinations, French Basque Country

Rostand Museum 

Remember the story of Cyrano de Bergerac , about the soldier-poet with the unfeasibly long nose? The original play was written by Edmond Rostand whose family home, Villa Arnaga, is now the Musée Edmond Rostand in Cambo-les-Bains. Website:  www.arnaga.com

Rostand Museum

Biarritz Aquarium 

With so much coastline to call upon, it makes sense that Biarritz has an impressive aquarium, with a large a range of aquatic species, both beautiful and scary. During school holidays, the ‘Dining with sharks’ attraction is particularly popular. Website:  www.aquariumbiarritz.com

Biarritz Aquarium

Pelota Museum

There are dozens of versions of this ancient Basque ball game, variously played with baskets, bats or bare hands, against a wall or over a net. This museum, in Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle’s tourist office, next to the town’s pelota court celebrates them all. Website:  www.saint-pee-sur-nivelle.com

Pelota Museum, courtesy of the Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle Tourist Office

Anglet Beach

There are miles of surfing beach in the Pays Basque, but for the genuine experience you need to head for Anglet and its 11 different beaches. No wonder they call Anglet ‘Little California’. Website:  www.anglet-tourisme.com/en/do-see/sports-leisure/beaches

Petit Train de la Rhune

Open from March to November, the train route up and down this 905-metre Pyrenean peak (something of a patriotic symbol among Basque people both sides of the border) is impressive. And the views from the top are astounding. Website:  www.rhune.com

Petit train de La Rhune. Photo: PTR

Bayonne’s Cathedral 

Work on Bayonne’s stunning Gothic Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, with its two grand spires, started back in the 13th century, and wasn’t completed for hundreds of years. In fact, the spires weren’t finished until the 19th century. The results are suitably impressive. Website:  www.cathedrale-bayonne.fr

Bayonne’s Cathedral

Taste Chocolate

At Laia, in the little town of Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, they make chocolate the ancient way. Watch head chocolatier Olivier Casenave demonstrate his craft to visitors, then see if you can avoid the temptation to buy some of his product. Website:  www.laia.fr

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

This beautiful mountain town is where pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostela route assembled before crossing the border into Spain. Sights include the Rue de la Citadelle, the Gothic church, and the citadel. Website:  www.saintjeanpieddeportpaysbasque-tourisme.com

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Photo: CDT64

Musée Basque et de L’Histoire de Bayonne 

Learn all about the history and lifestyle of the region’s traditional residents who, even nowadays, aren’t shy of demonstrating a bit of Basque dancing and singing. The museum section on rugby and pelota is especially vibrant. Website:  www.musee-basque.com

courtesy of the Musée Basque et de L’Histoire de Bayonne

Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste 

With its tiered oak galleries and stunning retable, this church rightly claims to be one of the Pays Basque’s finest. Louis XIV married here in 1660, and then church door was sealed up. Website:  www.saint-jean-de-luz.com/fr/18303-eglise-saint-jean-baptiste

Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste

Chili in Espelette 

It turns out the hills of the Pays Basque are perfect for growing chili. At certain times of year you’ll see  piment d’Espelette (AOP-protected and present in much of the region’s cuisine) hanging by their thousands from the façades of farmers’ houses. Website:  www.espelette.fr

Piment d’Espelette hanging from a Basque house. Photo: Philippe Laplace

Culture in Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle

Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle isn’t a large town but in terms of culture it punches well above its weight thanks to Espace Culturel Larreko. Circus, dance, music and theatre are among the various art forms on offer. Website:  www.larreko.fr

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Biarritz is an exceptional destination located  in the heart of the Basque Country , to meet different cultures.

With two airports:  Biarritz - Pays Basque airport , close to the city center and  only about 20 minutes from San Sebastian airport , Biarritz is connected to European cities and capitals and also Paris in just one hour.

Biarritz is now a flourishing center of sports, culture and good food.

Recently, the French government has chosen the brand Biarritz-Basque Country, a jewel of international tourism, to underline the advantages of tourism in France, with 19 other destinations.

Biarritz is the perfect destination f or those who seek art of good living, relaxation, culture and creativity .

The weather is moderate, with varied landscapes of beaches and mountains.

Nature has given Biarritz the best that can be offered: a magnificent climate all year round; fresh, invigorating air, water with extraordinary properties.

Beauty and wellness are gathered in Biarritz which is ideally located next to the sea and at the bottom of the Pyrenees.

Today, it is coming to revitalize body and spirit in the whirlpools of  water of thalassotherapy  and  spa centers of Biarritz .

Guests will find surf spots, golf and rugby fields, Basque pelota courts, festival spaces and an exceptional environment.

A 4-kilometer road on the Atlantic coast, making  Biarritz one of the most emblematic destinations on the Basque Coast .

The golfers who have chosen Biarritz as "Queen of the greens", as well as the French playwright Sacha Guiltry has chosen Biarritz as "Queen of the beaches", surely knowing

Biarritz has  16 golf courses within a radius of 100 km .

The  Golf Le Phare  was created in 1888, making it one of the oldest on the continent.

At that time, no one had predicted that surfing would make its first appearance on the Old Continent in Biarritz.

Surfing has given the city another title - the European surfing capital - which developed the water sports industry that was already worth 900 million euros in 2003.

Basque pelota and surfing are national ... titles.

The city is seen as a sports field, and the sports that are practiced reflect the city's enthusiasm for life.

The strength of Biarritz is based on its attachment to traditions and exceptional lands - wealth that it has managed to preserve : which may explain why it has such an excellent position in the conference and incentive markets.

Much more than promises, Biarritz provides the impetus to get the best out of you.

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French Basque Country | Road Trip Itinerary

From the Atlantic coast to the Pyrenees

Our 10-day road trip itinerary to the Pays Basque takes you to the best places to visit in the southwest of France. You’ll uncover a land rich in history and an incredible diversity of landscape. From the lively beach resorts along the Atlantic coast to the high-altitude peaks of the Pyrenees, discover the hidden jewels of the French Basque Country!

Most people you may ask about the Basque Country will most certainly point at the North-West part of Spain on a map… Well, that’s not wrong, but it’s not exactly right either. In fact, the Basque Region spreads across both France and Spain . While the biggest part is indeed found on the Iberian territory, let’s not forget about the small area in the southwest of France where local people claim high and proudly their Basque origins and culture.

Despite its incredible food culture and diversified scenery, the French Basque country doesn’t attract as much international tourism as its neighbouring country. Essentially famous for the fancy surfing town of Biarritz , the Pays Basque and its countryside remains relatively unknown which, in fairness, makes it an excellent off-the-grid destination in Europe !

The best way to visit this welcoming and charming part of France is by car. The winding roads along the coastline and those meandering through the countryside valleys are in great condition and often dotted by viewpoints and pleasant small villages. Whether you prefer to base yourself in one place and take day trips or go on a road trip, this itinerary is definitely what you need to prepare for your trip!

THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS 10-DAY ROAD TRIP IN THE FRENCH BASQUE COUNTRY

Day 1 : Visit this beautiful resort from the Côte des Basques to the Saint-Martin Lighthouse via Le Port-Vieux and the Port des pêcheurs. You’ll learn about corsairs and whalers’ history and discover the impressive architecture from the 19th century. Finally, take a surfing class or enjoy a day at the beach or at the spa.

Day 2 : Not as famous as its neighbour, Bayonne is quiet but nonetheless a charming town built on the banks of the rivers Nivé and Ardour. Discover its well-preserved and colourful half-timbered houses while tasting the local specialities such as the Bayonne Ham and one of the best French chocolate!

Basque Villages

Day 3/4 : Drive around the Labourd area to visit the typical basque villages renowned for their traditional red and white houses. From La Bastide-Clairence to Sare and Espelette, you will come across craftworkers, taste local red peppers and will learn about the Celtic and basque mythologies.

Nivé Valley

Day 5 : Head towards the Nivé valley to explore vineyards and visit farms along both “cheese” and “pig” roads. Taste local specialities on the way such as the Iroulegy wine, river trouts, ham, goat cheese, veal and basque cake! It is the perfect getaway to discover traditional French-Basque cuisine.

Day 6/7 : If you feel active, it is time to go on a day hike. We have selected a couple of trails nearby Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port suitable to any moderate hiker. For those who are not geared up or don’t particularly enjoy treks, you’ll find a driving itinerary to beautiful valleys and mountain passes.

Atlantic Coast

Day 8/9/10 : Time to head back to the Atlantic coast and follow dramatic cliffs overlooking fishing villages and surfing beaches. From Hendaye to Biarritz, you will explore the resorts of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Guethary and Bidart. A good excuse to eat local Macarons and fresh seafood.

10-DAY ROAD TRIP ITINERARY Pays Basque│French Basque Country

Day 1 | biarritz.

Aim to either arrive the day before or early in the morning to count this day as the first one. The main touristic area isn’t large, but you’ll probably need an entire day to truly experience what Biarritz has to offer.

You can get around on foot so you won’t need a car on your first day. It might be best to rent one later during the week from the airport which is only 15 min away by local bus (€1.20). If you are driving your own car, note that parking are busy and expensive so it would be best to book a place with free parking or look for a spot in the more residential area near la Côte des Basques.

On your first day, enjoy the sights and smells of the ocean by taking a stroll along the 4km coastline from the  Côte des Basques  to the Lighthouse on the north side of town. Along the way, watch surfers, chill at  Port-Vieux , grab a snack in the city centre, play in the waves at the  Grande Plage  and at the end of the day, watch the sunset from the lighthouse or enjoy a seafood dinner at the terraces of a Crampotte at the  Port-des-Pêcheurs .

READ MORE:  CITY GUIDE – WHAT TO DO IN BIARRITZ

If you have a bit of time, take a  surfing class  at la Côte des Basque or keep this activity for the next morning, depending on when the low tides are. For the most experienced surfers, you can rent a board for about €20/day and catch a wave at any of the  3 large beaches in Biarritz city centre. Just be aware that the more the tides are in, the bigger they are.

| Eat: Bali Bowl – Bar Jean – Le Corsaire | Sleep: Surf hostel –  Hôtel Alcyon  –  Windsor Grande plage   | Activities: Private walking tour – Waling tour of Saint-Jean-de-Luz

DAY 2 | BAYONNE

On your second day head to Bayonne. If you are staying in Biarritz, you can take a local bus for €1.20 one way and visit the town on foot. If you drive there, you will find free parking spots on the outskirt of the city centre. Street parking is expensive but free on Saturday afternoons, Sundays and bank holidays. Any other day, look for a Vinci car park, the first hour is often free.

Bayonne is a charming city but not as touristy as Biarritz. We love its beautiful narrow  cobblestone streets  lined with colourful half-timbered houses and local businesses. The city centre is very lively, mostly during the weekend when the local market is on and the “Bayonnais” shop around town.

Don’t miss the exceptional view of the houses reflecting themselves in the Nive and Ardour riverbanks on which Bayonne was built. Nearby, within “ Grand Bayonne ” head to “Les Halles” to taste local specialities, then explore the streets “rue du Pont-Neuf”, “rue d’Orbes”, “rue de la Monnaie” or “rue des Basques” to find chocolate and ham shops – two delicious regional specialities in Bayonne.

Before leaving, find the small intersection of 5 streets called “places des 5 cantons” and walk to the  Cathedral Sainte-Marie  and its cloister. It is a beautiful roman structure that might remind you of Notre-Dame-de-Paris, and that you can visit for free.

| Eat:  Le Chistera – Chocolat Cazeneuve – L’atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne | Sleep:  Hotel Cote Basque  –  Welcomehome64 | Activities: Private walking tour of Bayonne with a chocolate tasting

DAY 3-4 | BASQUE VILLAGES

On day 3 pick up your car early in the morning at Biarritz Airport and drive to  La Bastide-Clairence  (35km via motorway A64) – where you will start your visit to the most beautiful villages of the Basque country. In this town, you will spot the first Basque typical houses painted in white and decorated with red half-timbered shutters. Don’t hesitate to take your time and explore the main street where many crafters and artists expose their work.

Once you have finished your tour, drive 18km south towards  Cambo-Les-Bains  on road D10. It is a gorgeous little town known mostly for its thermal bath. There, don’t miss the “villa Arnaga” and its magnificent gardens that once belonged to the famous French dramatist Edmond Rostand (Cyrano de Bergerac).

In  Espelette , only 10 mins drive from Cambo, you will be able to learn (and taste) the local red pepper called “ Piment d’Espelette ”. Although, the main attraction here is the peculiar way locals dry this town’s iconic product. In fact, from September, the peppers are freshly harvested and hung on the facades of typical basque houses. They will be left drying all year long! In the town, go window shopping and taste the different products made out of the “Piment”. Our tips: try the  chocolate !

READ MORE:  MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES OF THE FRENCH BASQUE COUNTRY

From Espelette, head to  Aihnoa  (6km) – one of the most beautiful villages in France . If you are not tired of the white and red houses yet, then drive also to  Sare  (9km). From Sare, you can either hike the hill  La Rhune  or take a small train to the summit. Count 4 hours for the hike and a couple of hours for the train. On top of the hill, you’ll appreciate a 360° panorama over the Basque region, from the Atlantic Ocean to the snowcapped peaks of the Pyrenees. You can hike from the town of Sare or from the start of the train at the “ Col de Saint-Ignace ”, 4km from the village.

If you plan on spending time around Sare and hiking la Rhune or only taking a day trip from Biarritz, we would recommend skipping La Bastide-Clairence which is a bit out of the way. Start your exploration instead via the road D932 to Cambo-Les-Bains.

You can also add a day to your itinerary and stay in Sare for the night, explore La Rhune on day 4 and then continue with this itinerary.

| Eat:  Chez Doxpi in Espelette | Sleep: Sare  Hotel Arraya  – Aihnoa  Hôtel Ithurria | Activities: La Rhune and Sare caves – La Rhune train or hike

DAY 5 | NIVÉ VALLEY

It is time to head towards the Pyrenees, but before exploring the mountains, we would recommend driving around the Nivé Valley to discover more of the local food specialities.

From Sare, drive to  Bidarray  where you can buy a typical  Gâteau Basque  at the local bakery right next to the famous “hell bridge”. The legend has it that the Devil had been thrown off because of his incapacity to learn the Basque language (Euskara)…!

Bidarray is a very small village mainly known for being one of the best spots to start a  rafting trip  on the Nivé river. If that’s something you want to do, count about 3 hours and a budget of €30-ish for one descent.

From there, you can then either take the main road D918 to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or take the narrow countryside drive to  Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorri  and the Nivé Valley up to the town of Aldudes if you have time (we recommend the latter). Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorri is very charming with its medieval bridges crossing the Nive de Aldudes bordered by peaceful gardens and typical basque houses. From the main square, the view of the local Fronton and the mountain peaks in the background is beautiful.

If you don’t spend too much time around the village, continue your drive up the valley to  Aldudes . Along this route, you will find cheese and pork farms. Some can be visited for free or for a small fee. If you stop, don’t hesitate to taste the local ham and sheep cheese. Delicious!

Whether you skip the valley or not, head to  Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port   for the night. If you decide to spend the day here instead of the Nivé valley, go for a walk along the village’s cobblestone streets to the Saint-James’ door, the walkable ramparts and then up to the citadel (best at sunset). Saint-Jean is particularly busy from Mars to October as it is the main starting point of the  French Way Pilgrimage  walk to Santiago de Compostella. We advise booking your accommodation ahead.

MORE: What to do in Saint-jean-pied-de-port, a complete guide

| Eat: Gâteau Basque in Bidarray – Brasserie chez Marc Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorri – Café Ttipia in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port | Sleep: Hôtel des Pyrenées – Hôtel Ratmuncho – B&B Garicoitz

DAY 6-7 | PYRENEES

From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port you have the opportunity to quickly rise up within the western part of the Pyrenees chain. There are a few places that you could drive to in order to spend time in altitude and discover the extraordinary Pyrenean landscapes. In fact, on day 6, take a day trip to either the  Iraty Forest , to Larrau and the nearby  Holzarte bridge  or to Sainte-Engrâce where you can hike around the  Kakuetta gorges . Count a good 1.5 to 2 hours drive one-way for each place. You might not be able to do them all in a day, and if we had to choose, we would definitely recommend the Kakuetta gorges.

On day 7, If you are keen on a bit of a hike, we can only recommend crossing the border along the  Napoleon route  to Roncesvalles in Spain. This hike is the first (and most challenging) part of the French Way many pilgrims take to reach Santiago (about 35 days later!). Note it can be quite complicated if the weather is bad and we wouldn’t suggest you hike it if you are not a little bit prepared with proper hiking gear.

If you have the chance to get a beautiful sunny day, count about 7 hours (without a heavy backpack) to walk the 25 km. The walk will take you up to 1500m and you will pass beautiful scenery! In Roncesvalles treat yourself to a well-deserved €1 glass of red wine (vino Tinto) and take the bus back to Saint-Jean ( more info here ).

MORE:  7 GREAT HIKES IN THE FRENCH BASQUE COUNTRY

If hiking isn’t what you had in mind, what about driving that route past Orisson to the  Vierge De Biakorri  and the mountain passes of Elhursaro and Arnostéguy? Once at the top, continue to Estérençuby to complete a loop back to Saint-Jean (count about 3 to 4 hours with stops).

Another activity that you may enjoy, is walking up the little mount Harriguibeleta . This steep but short path will take you from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to the local wineries growing the famous grapes of the Domaine d’Iroulegya (see map).

DAY 8-9-10 | ATLANTIC COAST

It is time to leave the countryside and head to the Atlantic coast for a few days, where you can either relax at the beach, surf, visit small fishing villages or continue hiking around by following the trail of the Coastal Path from Biarritz to Hendaye.

Base yourself in Saint-Jean-de-Luz and start your explorations from there whether you decide to walk or drive. Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a vibrant town favourited by the older generations and families for its quiet bay and easy access. Despite its ritzy feel, the city is affordable and busy during the day, but nice and quiet at night. Feel free to buy all your souvenirs from the main pedestrian street, chill at the beach, treat yourself to some local Macarons at the Maison Adam and taste seafood platters.

On day 9, go explore the southern part by following the coastal path to Cibourne, the Socoa Fortress, the Castle of Acadabia onwards to Hendaye at the border with the Spanish border. The hike is quite easy and offers incredible viewpoints over the erratic coast of Biscay. The “Corniche” as the local calls it can also be driven – a few parking spots will allow you to stop on the way. If you drive, it will take only 40 min to Hendaye, so perhaps you could continue your day exploring San Sebastian and eat lots of Pintxos!?

MORE:  7 BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN THE SPANISH BASQUE COUNTRY

On your final day, head North back to Biarritz or the airport. Make sure to stop on the way in Guétary and/or Bidard for a surfing session, a quiet swim or just to enjoy the peacefulness of these two beautiful fishing villages.

| Eat: Macaron at Maison Adam , Drink at Le Suisse, Coffee at Akeita, and lunch or dinner at any restaurant on “Rue de la République” | Sleep: Hôtel Arena – Hôtel de Paris – Grand Hôtel de la Poste

SELF-GUIDED ITINERARY AT A GLANCE

Alternatives to this itinerary in the pays BASQUE

You can start your exploration from Hendaye if you fly into Spain, to the San Sebastian airport which is only 8km away. You’ll certainly find more affordable places to stay there than in Biarritz and might also have the chance to book cheaper flights in and out of Spain! Although, if you go this way and rent a car in Spain , make sure your insurance of the rental company allows you to drive in France (and vice et versa if you come from France to Spain). There shouldn’t be any issues, but it is best to check the Terms and conditions prior to booking your car.

This itinerary is obviously flexible. Feel free to spend more time in each area. The Basque country is rich and a lot of activities such as hiking, river rafting, fly-fishing, paragliding, surfing, etc. are available.

Finally, if you have more than a week in the region, why not continue your road trip to the Spanish side or take day trips to Pamplona from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or to San Sebastian from Hendaye/Biarritz? These places will give you also an overview of the Basque culture on the other side of the border.

Prepare for a Self-guided TRIP in France

Local transportation vs rental car.

Travelling in the southwest of France on your own is quite easy if you drive your own car or rent one from the airport. But when it comes to travel with local transportation it can be a little bit trickier to reach the most typical Basque villages in the remote countryside . Local buses and trains along the coast are plentiful but as soon as you pass the touristic line of the beach towns, local transportation gets sporadic.

To explore the French Basque country, we would recommend going on a road trip for about a week to 10 days . However, this itinerary can also be done as day trips from wherever you plan on basing yourself. Most destinations listed here are at most a 50 km radius drive away from one another. This makes the Basque region quite easy to discover even if you’d prefer staying in one and only place during your holidays instead of going on a road trip and sleeping in a different place each night.

Renting a car in France

Renting a car will give you the freedom to explore the region at your own pace and take in all the sights that interest you. The road network in the French Basque country is easy to navigate and is well-maintained.

Although, make sure to book your car ahead of your trip to France as prices can increase drastically the closer you get to your travelling dates. We recommend using the comparator Discover Cars to find the best deals online. The best part about Discover Cars is that you get full coverage insurance for less than €7 a day! You can also compare all the companies in the market, choose the type of car you want and see all the most recent customer reviews before making a booking. On the website, you can easily narrow your search price to find the best deal within your budget.

DISCOVER CARS – BEST FRANCE ONLINE CAR RENTAL

When booking a rental car in France online, I use Discover Cars because they offer Full coverage for less than €7 a day. It is the best rental car comparator out there!

National and international companies such as Avis and Europcar (that you can easily book via Discover cars ) are located near Biarritz airport . These tend to be much more suited for international travellers.

If you are already in the backcountry, and cannot access the main cities to pick up your car, you can look into supermarket rental car offers such as Leclerc and Carrefour . The first one rent cars for €4 per day with mileage included for long rentals – it is €0.17 per kilometre overwise. In Carrefour, with about 100 km per day included, rentals cost about €25 per day. The only issue is that you need to provide proof of address and a check as a deposit. If you don’t have any of these, it is best to call ahead and ask the alternatives as a non-national.

Budget and best time to visit the Pays Basque

In terms of budget, planning a road trip or day trip on your own will be much more affordable than if you take a week-long organised tour. Yet, the Basque country isn’t a cheap destination and budget accommodations are difficult to find. Hostels are quite rare in France and pretty expensive for the service offered – count about €40 per night for a bed in a dorm…

If you are travelling as a couple, you are better off staying in a B&B, or finding a low-range hotel or camp . But the best advice we can give if you are really on a tight budget is to avoid ritzy cities along the coast such as Biarritz . There, you can expect to pay about €80 for a double per night for mid-range accommodation with breakfast included and a minimum €150 for a more luxurious experience. If you have a car, don’t hesitate, therefore, to stay outside the towns and look for guesthouses in remote villages.

Note: prices bump up from May to September and the most affordable hotel and economic cars tend to get booked out months in advance. If you plan a trip during this period, book ahead and keep in mind the region gets very busy with national holidayers who love spending time along the Atlantic coast in July and August.

> In spring, the “Pays Basque” will be a lot less crowded but be aware that with the few French bank holidays happening from April to June , as well as the temperature heating up, locals usually take long weekend vacations during Easter and throughout the month of may – mainly if the 1st and 8th of May happen to be a Tuesday or Thursday! A lot of French people enjoy “Faire le pont” – which means they will take their Monday or Friday off to get a very long weekend with only 1 day off. Of course, they usually head to the beach for a few days.

> From October to April, the region gets very humid with day-long of rainfalls . Well, the countryside is very green for good reasons! Yes, all in all, it rains often in the Basque Country, and a lot more in the summer than in winter. Although, these are hardcore but quick rainfalls when heat thunderstorms break down at the end of the afternoon. They don’t last and are crucial to get the temperature to drop a little bit in the evening! In autumn and winter, it can rain non-stop all week, which is obviously less enjoyable.

If you are getting scared about the weather details provided, I am sorry to say there is nothing you can do about it. The Basque country is known for its humidity and rainfall but that shouldn’t stop you from booking yourself a nice week away. Go with the flow, the region is as beautiful with or without the sun anyway 😉

COST OF THIS 10-DAY ITINERARY

€1700 │ $1900 │ £1540 price for 2 people

Return flights from Dublin/Biarritz: €64 per pers. (+€12 for 10kg check-in bags) Rental car – 9 days: €170 (+€86 for full insurance) Fuel, Parking: €110 Food and drinks: €320 for 2 persons Accommodation: €800 Train La Rhune: €19 per person Surfboard rental: €20/day per person

join a tour to visit the French Basque Country

If you want to see all these beautiful places but can’t drive around, no worries. From Biarritz, San Sebastian or Bilbao, it exists many tours that will bring you around the Pays Basque for one to a few days. Here is a selection of guided tours:

• Explore the Atlantic coast via Hendaye, Saint Jean de Luz and Biarritz – 8 h – €270 – From San Sebastian 
• San Sebastian and Biarritz Full Day Tour – 8 h – €70 – From Bilbao
• Bayonne – Private walking tour – 2 h – €25
• Saint Jean de Luz – Private walking tour – 2 h – €25
• Biarritz – Private walking tour – 2 h – €25

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ABOUT THE  AUTHOR

Jen  –  Owner, writer & photographer – has lived for the past 10 years across Oceania and Ireland while also travelling long-term in Latin America, North America and Europe. She has visited more than  60 countries  and set foot on every continent in the world!

>>  Favourite countries : New Zealand, Bolivia, Iceland. >>  Wishlist : Svalbard, Japan, Botswana, Alaska. >>  Philosophy : “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.

Jen is a coffee nerd, passionate about  photography ,  wildlife  and  outdoor activities . Her organisation and curiosity make her a great travel companion always looking for DIY and off-the-grid adventures. For more info, check out the About page .

If you’ve found this travel guide useful and want to say Thank You, you can now buy me a virtual coffee!

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This is a perfect article with an extensive road trip itinerary. This is one area that we have been meaning to visit for years. We have been close but just never seemed to have the time to extend. The town of Bayonne interests me and then moving onto the Basque villages. Definitely I think the way to travel is by rental car – it gives you the opportunity to stop wherever you want, although as you say, parking can be expensive. Thanks for the information

I have not paid much attention to Basque County before but you have got all my attention now. The places look from fantasy-world. The Basque villages are places that I would surely like to do a road trip through. Among all the places, Pyrenees took my heart away – just so beautiful. Thanks for sharing options of stay, eat, and also activities.

I will be traveling Europe via camper van next summer and this sounds like the perfect itinerary for us to take when we get to France in order to see the best of the Basque Country! I would love to hike in the Pyrenees along the Napolean route, as I love a good hike. Of course, exploring the historic and charming Basque towns like Esplette in order to try some chili sounds like a blast as well. I can’t wait until next summer to try this road trip through such a special part of France!

I have been putting together an itinerary for France and neglected this part of the country. In fact, I hadn’t read much about it at all. Biarritz looks beautiful, such a great place to spend a few days relaxing by the water! I would love to explore Bayonne, it appears to be a town I would fall in love with and the little villages throughout the area would be fun to check out as well. Great tip about the humidity and rain Oct-Apr

This looks like such a fantastic road trip! A great combination of superb food, amazing landscapes and the countryside looks heavenly. The French Basque country deserves a visit- and I know I am likely to fall in love with the Basque villages, the Nive Valley and the Atlantic Coast specifically.

This sounds like an incredible road trip. I didn’t realize that the Basque Region spreads across both France and Spain. I think my favorite part of this trip (besides the delicious food) would be seeing the Atlantic Coast!

I’m hoping to visit South France for next spring. Too bad that you’re constantly adding more places to my itinerary, lolz! The region is indeed incredibly gorgeous with its own share of a bit of everything – vineyards, hiking regions and beaches! Nive Valley and Pyrenees would be main priorities I guess. I’ve heard of the French Way taken by pilgrims. Good to know a part of it is in this region. Also good to know that there’s a bus available for the return journey after the trek. I guess I can’t mix this with my South France trip. This …  Read more »

You are welcome Jane. I hope you will have the chance to visit the area one day. All the best

No prob Shreya. I am glad you discovered this beautiful part of the globe thanks to this post. It’s my main motivation to continue writing!!

Yeah!! I am so glad you’ll be taking this road-trip or at least visit the Basque country next year. It is such an incredible place and I really hope this post will help you organise your journey in France.

Hi Medha, I am sure you will! The Basque Country is incredible. It has definitely stolen my heart!

Haha, yeah, I am with you on that one. The Atlantic coast is inspiring and there is so much to do. I am sure you won’t be disappointed with the seafood there 😉

I am glad you liked this post. Yeah, the basque country deserves your full attention but if you are close enough, treat yourself with a couple of days in the region.

My visit to France was postponed to next year, and the south of France is included to my future itinerary. I like the places you’ve shared, the guides are very helpful, and I am excited. 2-weeks in France following your guide would be an amazing experience.

Official website of Bayonne Tourist Office

Seminar website

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• Visites guidées
• Billetterie

Selection of the moment

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The capital of the Basque Country from a whole new angle

All guided tours

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Top 5 sites.

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Bayonne chocolate, a must for your Easter vacations…

Inspirations

What to do in Bayonne with friends

Visit and discover Bayonne for a weekend

What to do in Bayonne with children

Bayonne in a day: see the city’s essentials

Trottinette Tapas à Bayonne: “Au fil de la Nive”

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Musée du Chocolat

At the Musée du Chocolat, come and experience a fun and instructive…

L’Hermione au port de Bayonne

The Hermione calls at Bayonne on the Anglet side! This unique ship,…

Café du Théâtre

Restaurant located in the heart of Bayonne, the Café du Théâtre team…

A THOUSAND AND ONE REASONS TO VISIT BAYONNE

City of art and history

City of gastronomy

Festive city

Sporty city

City of nature

The Bayonne way of life

Agenda for the next few days.

Basque Country Travel Guide

The name Euskal Herria is how the natives of the Basque Country refer to their land. It simply means, “land of the Basque speakers.” And Basque has been spoken by the feisty inhabitants well before the Romans ever arrived. Their full history as well as the origins of their language have long been shrouded in mystery.

However, their identity is very evident. This can be seen in the plethora of Basque music, dance, sports, festivals and food – all of which are celebrated with great fervor by the Basques.

Even with this strong identity, a new image of the Basque Country is emerging. Bilbao , which is now a mecca for design and architecture was, until some decades ago, a city full of decaying industrial complexes.

The city underwent a transformation and some of the finest architects in the world were invited to leave their mark. The Guggenheim Museum designed by Frank Gehry is the most well known example and it’s now the number one tourist destination in the entire Basque region.

San Sebastian is also redefining the Basque image around the world with its extraordinary cuisine. The city has 14 Michelin stars spread across 6 restaurants. It is also one of the best places to eat pintxos – culinary creations in miniature form, similar to Spanish tapas but better.

San Sebastian isn’t the only place to eat amazing food. Located just 20 minutes up the coast, the beautiful town of Hondarribia is quickly becoming a hotspot for foodies. And once you’ve eaten all that tasty food then a trip to Spain’s best wine region – la Rioja – is not far off.

There’s still so much more to be discovered in the Basque Country. The region is packed with quaint villages like those found in the French Basque Country and numerous fishing communities found along the coast. There are beautiful beach resorts such as Biarritz and some of the best surf spots in the world. Have a look through our travel guide and website – because there is just far too much to mention here.

Basque Country's Top Things to Do & See

Bilbao is the beating heart of the Basque Country as well as the region’s largest and most cosmopolitan city. Bilbao’s main draw for visitors is, without a doubt, the Guggenheim Museum.

This impressive building designed by the architect Frank Gehry, is considered to be one of the most important structures of contemporary architecture. The construction of the Guggenheim marked an important turning point in the history of Bilbao.

Over the past several decades, the city has undergone a huge transformation. The old decaying industrial complexes along the river have been ripped up and a new modern Bilbao has emerged. Countless world class architects have since left their mark on the city.

Today, in addition to the Guggenheim Museum, there is a timeless Metro system designed by Sir Norman Foster, an airport and a bridge from Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and a community center (Alhondiga) designed by Philippe Starck. The list goes on and on.

Much like the rest of the Basque Country, Bilbao is constantly evolving. While the city is embracing the future, it is also conserving its past and there is plenty of old Bilbao to be discovered. Whatever you are looking for, whether it’s savory Basque cuisine , Basque culture , shopping, nightlife, etc., you will find it in Bilbao.

San Sebastián

San Sebastián, or Donostia as it is called in Basque, is a majestic city with beautiful beaches and an impressive culinary scene. The city was first made famous during the Belle Époque era and is where Queen Maria Cristina established her royal summerhouse.

Since then, San Sebastián has attracted wealthy beach-goers in search of sun and sophistication. And it’s no wonder why.

The city’s main beach, called La Concha, is for sure the most beautiful urban beach in Europe. Luxurious beachside mansions run along La Concha, as well as the famous spa called La Perla (The Pearl) and its boardwalk is lined by an ornate white railing that has become a symbol of the city.

If that already weren’t enough, there are two additional beaches in San Sebastian, one of which is also very popular with surfers.

In more recent years, San Sebastián has gained significant press for its cuisine. The city alone has 14 Michelin stars spread across 6 restaurants and famously boasts more stars per capita than anywhere else in the world other than Tokyo. Restaurant Mugaritz has been ranked number 31 in the world ( 2023 World’s 50 Best Restaurants ). It is in many ways like a mini Paris, except in Basque style.

San Sebastián is also famous for its pintxos (similar to tapas). And the best place to go to try some of them is the Parte Vieja (Old Part). This charming old city center is famous for having the highest concentration of bars in the world. This is where the pintxo is king and the food is taken very seriously.

Gernika is known throughout the world due to the painting by Pablo Picasso that bears the same name (although spelled the Spanish way, “Guernica”). It was this town that was bombed in 1937, the events of which inspired Picasso’s most famous piece of art.

The bombing by German and Italian air forces took many lives and left the town utterly destroyed. The destruction of Gernika was ordered by Francisco Franco in an attempt to overthrow the Republican government during the Spanish Civil War.

One of the reasons Gernika was chosen for the bombing is due to its importance both politically and historically. The Gernika Tree can be found here and it’s where, underneath its branches, Basques were granted autonomy in the Middle Ages.

Next to the tree is the Biscayan Assembly, a place where the political leaders have meet to decide the fate of their people over the ages. Both the assembly and the tree offer insights into the history of the Basque people and can give a deeper understanding of more recent historical events such as the Basque independence movement.

In addition, Gernika also has its own Basque museum, the Euskal Herria Museum as well as the Peace Museum. For those who are interested in Basque culture and politics, Gernika is a must.

On a lighter note, the city is also host to the Monday Market, one of the most important markets of the Basque Country.

French Basque Villages & Towns

The French Basque Country has numerous well manicured villages and towns with rustic charm. A majority of them are scattered throughout the interior among the green hills of the countryside and often only occupy a street or two.

Saint Jean de Luz is one of the exceptions that is actually located on the coast and it is also rather unique since it combines traditional old Basque architecture found in the interior with stately mansions that have a French influence.

This is due to the fact that in the 17 th century the town transitioned from being one of France’s most important fishing ports to a center for Basque corsairs. These corsairs looted and plundered and brought back incredible wealth to Saint Jean de Luz, the evidence of which can still be seen.

Today, Saint Jean de Luz is a sleepy beach town that is the perfect place for families or couples who are seeking to relax in the sun while experiencing the charm of a gone-by era.

In the French Basque interior, the most beautiful village is Espelette. Its picture-perfect streets are lined with traditional Basque houses, many of which feature Espelette’s number one export, the Piment d’Espelette (“Espelette pepper”).

These drying peppers proudly dangle from lines that are attached to the facades of the houses, creating the symbol of the entire village. It is a pleasure to stroll down its streets and take in the unique scenery while stopping once in a while at the stores and boutiques that sell not only the famous peppers but also many more local products such as chocolate and cheese.

Deep in the French Basque Country’s hinterland lies another beautiful village, St. Jean Pied-de-Port. It’s unspoiled and surrounded by a green landscape making it a great place for those interested in hiking and those in search of solitude & relaxation. It is a walled village and has numerous gates.

The most well known is the Porte St-Jacques which was made a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998. St. Jean Pied-de-Port is also a popular starting point for many pilgrims traveling along the Camino de Santiago. The camino is also listed as a World Heritage by Unesco.

The Basque coast is full of beaches and there are far too many to even mention here. However, whichever kind of beach you are looking for, whether it is a city beach, a wild isolated beach, or anything else in between, you will find it in the Basque Country.

Laga & Laida Beaches - Located within the Biosphere Reserve of Urdaibai, these two beaches are two of the Basque Country’s most beautiful. Laida is quite special because it is located in the middle of an estuary and changes depending on the tide to reveal more or less of the sandbanks.

Lekeitio - A small town with a few special beaches and crystal clear turquoise water. In the bay lies an island that can be reached via a sandbank during low tide.

Hendaye - A 3km long sandy beach located on the French-Spanish border.

Biarritz - Posh beach resort that is popular among surfers. It’s the French Basque Country’s answer to San Sebastian.

San Sebastian - The city’s main beach, La Concha Beach, is considered to be one of the most beautiful city beaches in the world.

Saint Jean De Luz - Small beach resort that has a gentle bay and a beautiful old town. Good for families with small children.

Zarautz - Home to the longest beach in the Spanish Basque Country, known as "the queen of the beaches," and also to famous waves that attract surfers from all over the world.

Laguardia & the Rioja Wine Region

La Rioja is synonymous with Spanish wine and for good reason. Although Spain in general has very good wines, the bulk of the best wines are without a doubt coming from La Rioja. The region is divided into 3 areas: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa.

Only Rioja Alavesa is located in the Basque Country and most points of interest are located within this region. However, if you are really into wine, it might be worth it to explore the entire region as the wine from the three different parts have their own particular characteristics.

La Rioja wines are of the highest quality, which is reflected in continuous ratings of 90+ points from Robert Parker, the world’s leading wine critic.

Not only is the wine amazing, but there are also many points of interest to be explored. Laguardia is a small, walled town set atop a hill in the heart of La Rioja Alavesa. The town once held a strategic military position and, because of this, tunnels and cellars were built under the houses.

After it was no longer of any military value, the villagers began to take advantage of the cellars perfect conditions for creating wine. And the rest is history.

Today, there are several wineries that still use the cellars and it is possible to tour them. It’s like stepping back in time before state-of-the-art facilities existed and the products were still very artisanal in nature. Laguardia is a definite “must see.”

There are literally hundreds and hundreds of bodegas in the region. Some are very traditional and some very modern. Modern examples can be seen at the Ysios Bodega from Santiago Calatrava and the Marques de Riscal Bodega from Frank Gehry.

Hondarribia

The village of Hondarribia is located on the Basque coast and is situated on the border with France. It is full of perfectly manicured houses with colorful wooden balconies. The architectural features reflect a kind of mixture between Spanish and the French Basque Country characteristics and make it of particular interest.

In addition to being a pleasure to explore, it is also home to some of the Basque Country’s best restaurants and is quickly becoming a foodies paradise.

Hondarribia is packed with a huge number of amazing restaurants and bars – some of the very best in the region in fact. If you are into Basque gastronomy, your trip won’t be complete if you don’t visit Hondarribia.

The well-preserved Old Town, a relaxing maritime atmosphere and fantastic food are only some of the reasons why Hondarribia is one of our favorite places in the region.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, whose name means “castle rock” in Basque (“gaztelu” = castle + “aitz” = rock), is a definite “must” if you are visiting the Basque Country. It is an awe-inspiring island located just off the shore along the Bay of Biscay. The views to, from, and around the island are simply beautiful.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is accessed by a man-made stone bridge. The bridge transitions into a narrow path that contains 241 steps and zigzags its way back and forth to the top. At the highest point of the island there is a tiny church dedicated to John the Baptist.

The island also has an intriguing history. Throughout the years it has housed a convent, served as a prison for Basque witches during the Spanish Inquisition, been used as a defensive outpost for the lords of Biscay, and was even ransacked by Sir Francis Drake.

Getaria & Txakoli Wine

Getaria is a charming fishing village that’s wedged between two beautiful beaches and a tiny island and sits adjacent to the green rolling hills of the getariako txakoli wine region.

Txakoli is a slightly sparkling, young and fruity white wine that is produced in these unique vineyards overlooking the ocean. Although txakoli has been around for centuries (the first mention of it dates back to 1520), it has just started to become popular in recent years, and not only in the Basque Country but also all over the world.

Some of the txakoli bodegas offer tours, while others offer tastings and almost all of them offer direct sale. However, to fully experience txakoli, you must visit one of the many restaurants at the harbor where you can enjoy a bottle with some freshly caught fish that is grilled outside over charcoals. The lovely setting along with great food and wine is one of the reasons we love Getaria so much.

But Getaria has more to offer, especially if you are into fashion design. This little town is actually the birthplace of the famous fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Balenciaga, who was born in 1895, was a true fashion innovator and was respected throughout the fashion world for both his techniques as well as his perfectionism. In 2011, the Balenciaga Museum was opened in the Aldamar Palace and today, proudly displays many of his haute couture creations.

San Fermin – Running of the Bulls

The San Fermín festival and the legendary running of the bulls, attracts over a million visitors every year to Pamplona. The festival starts the 6 th of July at 12:00 PM with the “txupinazo,” a small firework that is fired from the balcony of the City Hall.

During the week of San Fermín, Pamplona is flooded with party-goers from all over the world each donning a white t-shirt and a red handkerchief. The activities and events of the festival consist of concerts, rural sport competitions, Basque dance and music, nightly fireworks shows and much more.

However, the most famous event of San Fermín is, without a doubt, the running of the bulls (“encierro” in Spanish). This event, which was immortalized in Ernest Hemingway’s book, “The Sun Also Rises,” takes place every morning at 8:00 AM between the 7 th and the 14 th of July.

Runners are chased by six bulls for approximately 800 meters until they reach the bullring (“plaza de toros” in Spanish). This is a very dangerous activity and while some people train all year preparing for it, others decide to join at the last moment, convinced by the amount of alcohol drank during the night before. This makes the running even more dangerous and unfortunately 15 people have died doing it since 1924.

Nevertheless, the running of the bulls is an extremely popular activity and something unique that is worth seeing at least once.

Biarritz & Bayonne

Biarritz and Bayonne are separated by a mere 8 km, however, they are two very distinct places of interest. We have grouped them together here because if you visit one, you should definitely take the time and check out the other – you won’t be disappointed.

Biarritz Biarritz is famous for its beaches, therapeutic water and a thriving surf scene. It’s a place where posh restaurants and spas live harmoniously side-by-side with laid-back pizza joints and surf shops.

When Empress Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, built her palatial summer residence next to the sea, Biarritz was forever changed. The small whaling town transformed into a trendy spa and holiday destination for France’s elite.

Today the town is full of grand summer houses and has an up-scale feel to it. However, the atmosphere in Biarritz has been balanced off by a laid back surf culture that has deep roots in the area. This interesting contrast forms part of Biarritz’s identity and adds to its charm.

Bayonne Every year, more than one million people descend on Bayonne for what is France’s largest festival, the Fetes de Bayonne. It is reminiscent of the San Fermin festival of Pamplona , where the bull plays an important role in many of the events throughout the week.

However, during the rest of the year, Bayonne is a relatively quiet and stress free city. It is a picturesque place with a nice mixture of Basque and French architecture as well as a massive gothic cathedral with a cloister from the 13 th century.

And if you are into food, then you might also want to check the local chocolatiers and the infamous Bayonne ham.

Nature Parks

In general, the Basque Country is pretty sparsely populated. Outside of the cities and towns, life still revolves around the Basque farmhouse, known as a baserri. Whether they are tending to a flock of sheep, raising livestock or making cheese, the Basques of the baserris still have a strong connection with the land.

It is a land full of natural wonders and thankfully many are protected natural parks. Not only can you experience the beauty of the parks but there is also a good chance you will come across a Basque shepherd with his flock or see some Basque ponies (pottokas).

Although there are far too many parks to mention here, we are listing a few of our favorites.

Urkiola - This nature park is situated in a mountain rage with the highest point being the Anboto at 1331 m. It is possible to hike to the top of the Anboto and to a few lower peaks. The views are impressive.

Urbasa-Andia - The highlight of this park is the Nacedero del Urederra – the birthplace of the Urederra river. A path runs along the river into the forest where pool after pool of clear blue water lead to a waterfall. The water color is simply amazing and even in person, looks surreal.

Bardenas Reales - This is one of only a few deserts in Europe and it’s definitely the most impressive of them all. There are several unique geological formations and some lovely landscapes. Explore the park by car or get in a little deeper by hiking or riding a bike on one of the many paths.

Le Petit Train de la Rhune in Sare - This quaint train has been operating for more than 90 years and takes visitors 905 meters up the Rhune Mountain to get a 360° view of the Basque Country and the Atlantic Ocean. Great for those who want the views without having to hike.

Ruta del Flysch - If you are into long all-day hikes, then you shouldn’t miss the Ruta del Flysch. This path goes along the coast between the towns of Deba and Zumaia and offers amazing vistas of the coastal flysch rock formations. This is the most beautiful hike of the entire Basque Country in our opinion.

Basque Gastronomy

It’s possible to find good food all over the Basque Country. However, San Sebastian and Hondarribia are probably the two places with the highest concentration of quality establishments.

If you are interested in visiting a Michelin starred restaurant, be sure to check out our Michelin page that contains all of the Michelin restaurants located within the Basque Country.

Pintxos The Basque Country has its own unique food culture that revolves around the bar. Pintxos ( bite-sized appetizers, similar to tapas ) can be found in nearly every bar. Often the bar counter will be filled with plates of all different varieties.

They range from being rather traditional to very experimental in nature. It is typical to find the locals out enjoying a drink while sampling different pintxos and then going on to the next bar to do the same thing all over. This is sometimes done before a meal as a kind of aperitif or it can take the place of a normal meal.

In addition, every city and town has yearly competitions for the best pintxos and the winning trophies are proudly displayed within the bars.

Sagardotegi The Sagardotegi (sidrería in Spanish), is another special Basque tradition. It is a type of cider house that is found within the Basque countryside. These restaurants serve a traditional set menu with their highlight being the enormous txuleton steak .

This mouth-watering slab of un-adulterated beefy goodness weighs in at around one kilo and like the other plates are shared by those at the table. The other highlight of the sidrería is the endless supply of cider from giant wooden barrels (kupelas in Basque).

The sidrería is a great chance to experience something uniquely Basque and eat like a king.

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Basque country history.

No one is exactly sure where the Basque people come from. The people along with the language seem to have been around since long before indo-european speakers arrived. Basque speakers lived predominately in Aquitaine which extended through the Pyrenean Mountains and north along the French coast.

The area changed hands many times through history and eventually, in the Middle Ages, the Kingdom of Castile gained control over what is today the Spanish Basque Country. Navarre became its own Kingdom and the French Basque Country was absorbed by France.

Basque Fueros (set of laws similar to a constitution) were established between the Basque regions and their respective kings and allowed for them to function as an autonomous community. These fueros were used as the rule of law until after the Second Carlist War in 1876 when they were stripped away. This action was the catalyst that started a movement towards nationalism.

After enjoying hundreds of years of autonomous rule, the Basques were now being oppressed and starting to lose aspects of their culture and identity. In response to this, Sabino Arana, who is considered to be the father of Basque nationalism, created the Basque National Party (PNV) and started a cultural renaissance.

Everything that was considered Basque was celebrated. Arana also designed the Basque flag, called the Ikurrina, which can still be found in use throughout the Basque Country.

The nationalist movement gained most of its momentum following the Spanish Civil War (1936 - 1939). The dictator Francisco Franco took control of Spain and the Basques suffered greatly under his heavy hand. In his quest to create a unified Spain, languages and customs not considered to be Spanish were prohibited. This also included the use of the Ikurrina.

However, the flag was often placed in public places and became a symbol of defiance. Franco created an obvious backlash by trying to destroy the Basque culture and that helped give roots to the nationalist movement.

In 1959, a new chapter of Basque history began with the formation of ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna – "Basque Homeland and Freedom"). The group started by promoting Basque culture but later developed into a paramilitary group whose goal was to have an independent Basque Country.

Some of ETA’s first attacks were generally approved of by Spanish and Basque societies who saw them as part of the fight to put an end to Franco’s regime. They were responsible for the assassination of the Spain’s Prime Minister and successor to Franco, Luis Carrero Blanco. Many consider Carrero Blanco’s death as an important step in the establishment of Spain’s democracy.

ETA subsequently continued their fight for independence for more than 50 years in what has been referred to as “Europe’s longest war.” The conflict resulted in the deaths of more than 1,000 people. In 2011, ETA announced a “definitive cessation of its armed activity.” It seems now that this chapter of Basque history has finally come to an end.

Basque Language

Euskara, the language of the Basques, is the last remaining descendent of the pre-indo-european languages. Throughout time the area containing Basque speakers continued to shrink, but as luck would have it, never completely disappeared.

Since it is the last survivor of its language family, it is considered a language isolate, meaning that it doesn’t have any relationship with any other language.

Euskara suffered greatly during the dictatorship of Francisco Franco (1939 - 1975) since it was prohibited. By the time Franco died, the language was in steep decline. In an attempt to save it, the Basque Language Academy (Euskaltzaindia) took the various Basque dialects and combined them, forming a standardized Basque language called Batua.

Batua was introduced into the education system and it is now common for children to take either some class or all of them in Basque. This along with newspapers, magazines and a TV station have helped the language rebound.

Today, one of the most significant criteria for being Euskaldun (Basque) is the ability to speak the language. There are only 715,000 native Basque speakers who are very proud of their language. They don’t expect visitors to be able to speak a word.

So you can image how impressed a local would be if you, a foreigner, said anything to them in Basque. This is the easiest way to make friends in Euskal Herria. For this reason we have compiled a list of words and expressions to aid you in your journey.

The weather in the Basque coast is quite moderate due to the ocean breeze. Some areas on the coast are more susceptible to rain. The interior has temperatures that are slightly more extreme. Usually a few degrees hotter in the summer and a few degrees colder in the winter.

The wine region of La Rioja Alavesa has a microclimate and in the summer is almost always sunny. Summers are warm, but not incredibly hot like the south of Spain for example. It is not unusual though for temperatures to reach 30ºC (86ºF).

Bilbao : Loiu airport is the largest in Basque Country. There are cheap flights with Easyjet and Vueling to London and with Vueling to Barcelona and Malaga. There are many connections to other European cities with other companies such as Iberia, Lufthansa, Air Berlin, Bruxelles Airlines.

San Sebastián-Donostia : Hondarribia Airport has flights to/from Barcelona & Madrid.

Biarritz : Flights with Ryanair from Dublin, London (Stansted), Shannon (Ireland) and Frankfurt, and with Sterling Airlines from Oslo and Copenhagen.

Madrid : It is possible to catch a flight to Madrid and then take a bus or a train to the Basque Country. Direct buses run approximately every hour and take about 4 - 5 hours.

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Daily connections are offered to main cities from Paris, Madrid and Barcelona. You can also travel within the Basque Country with the scenic routes of the EuskoTren network. The main drawback to EuskoTren is that is takes about twice as long as the same trip by car.

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Both Spain and France have extensive bus infrastructure and this is one of the easiest and most comfortable ways to travel. You can always find connections between cities and most larger towns. However, access to more remote villages may be limited as would be expected.

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A rental car is really great to have in the Basque Country. It makes for access to some parts of the region such as San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and to the sagardotegis (traditional Basque cider restaurants in the countryside) much easier.

Driving along the coast and through the Basque interior is beautiful. If you do rent a car, we recommend not staying on the highway the whole time and driving through the country side as it is very rewarding and you get to see a part of Basque life that you would otherwise not be able to.

Some of the highways are also toll roads in the Basque Country. The most expensive one is between Vitoria and San Sebastian and costs around 12 €.

If you take the alternative free route, it takes about 20 minutes longer, but is much more scenic.

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Adventure Travel With a Glass of Wine

36 Hours in French Basque Country

By Jennifer Dombrowski 11 Comments

Just 15 miles inland from the glitz of Biarritz and the seaside charm of Saint-Jean-de-Luz , the Pays Basque hinterland feels a world away. It’s here that the steep coastal cliffs give way to the craggy foothills of the Pyrenees. The houses and villages have a distinct architectural style that, if not for the car we’re zipping round the narrow country roads in, would convince me we’ve been teleported back in time. And there’s a deep-routed passion and pride in being French-Basque, evident in the friendly conversations you’re bound to have with the locals, like the Espelette pepper producer you’re buying some piment from or the proprietor at the family-run inn that’s been in his family for three generations. Often overshadowed by the surfing and thalassotherapy in Biarritz, the hinterland definitely shouldn’t be forgotten on your trip. From hiking past Pottok ponies to trying all the delights made with Espelette pepper, there’s plenty of things to do in French Basque Country…and we’ve only scratched the surface of the highlights.

A Michelin-star meal at l’Auberge Basque | 8pm

San Sebastián may be world famous for its sheer number of Michelin-star restaurants per square meter, but the French Basque country has a few of its own. Definitely not to be missed is a meal in the restaurant of the nearly 350-year old traditional Basque house L’Auberge Basque.

After working for more than 10 years under renowned chefs like Jean-Marie Gautier at Biarritz’s Hôtel du Palais and Alain Ducasse at Hotel Crillion and Plaza Athénée in Paris, chef Cédric Béchade vowed he would return to Pays Basque one day. He and his wife, Marion, did just that when they fell in love with a in house dating back to 1672 in the traditional Basque village of Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle. They opened the house as a boutique hotel and restaurant in 2007.

Set just 7 kilometers from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, the setting couldn’t be more picturesque. It’s set on a hill facing the Rhune Mountain, the symbol of the Pays Basque. With hawks soaring overheard, a light breeze rustling the trees and the late evening sun kissing the foothills of the Pyrenees, it feels a world away from the bustling beach a mere 20 minutes away.

Here on the rural road the houses all display their name, a Basque tradition for how the families that live in them are best known, and are painted red, green or blue. But inside l’Auberge Basque, the traditional meets contemporary – both in the inn’s design and Cédric’s incredible cuisine.

The dishes are inventive and inspired by the regional cuisine. The menu changes seasonally to feature the products of the season and everything comes from no more than a 200 kilometer radius. You can order a la carte or select one of the tasting menus from four to seven courses, with or without wine pairings. If you go at lunch, there’s a 3-course tasting menu available for just €46, which is an excellent value for a 1-star Michelin restaurant. We’ve selected the 4-course tasting menu with wine pairings and left the selection up to the chef.

The amuse-bouche arrives and it’s a work of art. It’s a  savory “tiramisu” in the shell, a tempura-fried green asparagus just in season from the Landes and bread made with duck. All plated to look like beach meets forest, it’s a perfect representation of the setting of L’Auberge Basque.

The starter is a beautiful tower: the base a bed of mushrooms and topped with a crab-filled ravioli. It’s crowned with herbs and drizzled with an herb sabayon . Every bite is a flavorful little bit of heaven. It’s paired with a 2016 Domaine Castéra Tauzy from Jurançon.

Basque lamb from the farm of Jean Bernard Maïtia, which has been braised in the milk of the meadows, practically falls away from the bone. The lamb chops are served with potato croquettes and topped with fried potato strings. The 2014 Le Village Côte-Rôtie from the Northern Rhône is an excellent pairing.

The cheese cart, which has been sitting just between us and the open kitchen, has been taunting us since our arrival. After hearing about all of the Basque cheeses, we choose three. They’re sliced and plated with a delectable Espelette jam.

Nearby Bayonne is France’s capital of chocolate and there’s no hesitation that the Basque and Landaise chocolate mousse is what we’re selecting for dessert. The rich chocolate mousse with chocolate crumble is served with mango sorbet. It’s paired with something special, a 2016 Domaine Les Mille Vignges Noir de Carignan, which is actually a type of liqueur produced from the carignan grape.

Of course, if you’ve dined at a Michelin-star restaurant then know there’s never just one dessert. In fact, it’s a trio of mini desserts: chocolate with chestnut cream, a Basque digestive with verbena sorbet, and gâteau basque ice cream with a Basque apple digestive.

L’Auberge Basque La Table ,  745 Vieille Route de Saint-Pée .  Open Wednesday – Sunday for lunch and dinner from 12:15pm – 1:30pm and 8pm – 9:30pm, and Tuesday for dinner from 8pm – 9:30pm. Reservations required.

Espelette, France | 10am

If you only visit one village in the Pays Basque, it should be Espelette. Basically the cutest village you ever did see, Espelette is famous for its cultivation of the dark red chili pepper called the Espelette pepper. Just 30 minutes drive from Bayonne, the village is a smattering of half-timber white-washed houses with their red or green shutters and, if you visit during the drying season, strings of the dark red chilis dangling from the facades.

Brought back to France by sailors that were part of Christopher Columbus’ expedition during the 16th century, Espelette is a South American variety of chili pepper in the Gorria family. The sailors professed that the climate and soil of the farmland around Espelette was similar to that of the Gorria pepper’s native land. Farming of the pepper quickly spread.

At that time, spices were a type of currency. The spice trading Moors spread Espelette from the Basque Country in to North Africa, and then it spread further across the Ottoman Empire.

Back in France, Espelette was first used for medicinal purposes. Then the Basque people started to preserve meat with it, covering Bayonne ham in Espelette pepper powder to cure it. Eventually it was used in Basque cuisine as a spice or condiment.

Since the year 2000 the Espelette pepper has been designated a PDO, or protected designation of origin. That means it has strict controls for farming and processing the pepper in order to ensure the quality. Just 10 villages and their fields surrounding the village of Espelette can grow the peppers under the name Espelette. The farming and production of the peppers is still done just as it has been for more than a century.

Once the peppers are harvested each season around September, they are cleaned and sorted one by one. Some peppers will become the Espelette pepper powder and others will be sold whole on the rope. Both are dried usually on ropes of 20-24 and strung up like necklaces decorating the farmers’ houses, but there is also a newer method of drying them flat that speeds up the drying process. Peppers that will be ground up for Espelette pepper powder are put in an oven to cook after the drying period, then immediately ground up in a mill and the powder is put in vacuum sealed bags to await the accreditation of the PDO.

In Espelette, there’s no shortage of shops selling all things chili pepper. From the powder to delicious purees perfect for serving with cheese, the shelves are lined with jars and bottles in little shop after shop. Some even sell saucisson with Espelette or Basque cheese with Espelette. Another sells Basque chocolate with Espelette. Many shops offer little tasting samples of their products. We wander from shop to shop to check out all the offerings, a bag of Espelette goodies to bring home soon overflowing. With a grade of 4000 on the Scoville scale (the scale that measures the heat of chili peppers), Espelette is only mildly hot and a delicious souvenir from your trip to French Basque Country.

La Rhune | 2pm

Standing at 905 meters (nearly 3000 feet), La Rhune is the first peak at the western end of the Pyrenees. It’s also the symbol of the Basque Country and, when the weather is clear, has an incredible 360° panorama of the seven provinces (four in Spain and three in France) that make up the Basque Country and a stunning view of the Basque Coast. But you don’t have to lace up your hiking boots (unless you want to – La Rhune is the first peak you’ll trek on the coast-to-coast Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne walking route) to visit the summit.

The Petit Train de la Rhune whisks passengers up to the summit on a 35-minute journey on the historic cog railway. The wooden carriages have been restored to their original versions built in 1924 and are a homage to the region with the roof made of Pyrenean fir, the floor made of pine from the Landes and paneling made of chestnut from the Ariège. Riding the train that impressively climbs the steep 18% grades up the side of the mountain is an experience in itself and one of the top things to do in Basque Country.

But it’s not just about the destination; there’s a lot to see along the journey up to the summit of La Rhune. We were most excited to see the Pottok ponies, an ancient breed of semi-feral horses that live here in the Pays Basque.

There’s actually very little known about the original of these adorable small horses, though many believe that is the Pottok that are pictured in the Paleolithic cave paintings in Basque Country. Because of that belief, people say that the Pottok are descended from the Magdalenian horses of 14,000 – 7000 BC.

Once very common in the Pays Basque, the Pottok is now endangered because of lack of habitat and because of cross-breeding with other horse breeds. In 1970 a census was conducted to determine how many pure bred Pottok remained, and it was found that there were less than 5500 at that time. Pottok were officially declared endangered in 1995 and conservation efforts have been in place since to ensure the breed will live on.

So it’s quite special to see them and one of the best places to encounter Pottok is on the train journey to the summit of La Rhune. They’re semi-wild and a bit shy, but they live and roam in herds of 10-30 horses. Unbothered by the train, they come quite close to the track while grazing on grass and wild flowers. Their small chubby bodies make them forever look like a pony.

Aside from the Pottok, you’re also likely to see manech sheep grazing on the mountainside. They’re the breed of sheep milked to make the AOC Basque cheese Ossau-Iraty. And keep your eye peeled for the vultures that like to circle overhead.

The top is a bit touristy with a cafe and shop selling tourist trinkets, but you have enough time to walk around taking in the view before the train departs back down to Sare. There’s a monument to commemorate Empress Eugenie climbing to the top in 1859.

If there’s enough time and the weather is good, there are hiking trails that lead past the Pottok ponies and to the summit. It takes around 4 hours and 30 minutes round trip when hiking Basque Country to La Rhune. You can also take the train one-way, either first hiking up and catching the train back down or taking the train up and hiking back down.

Dinner at Hotel Arraya | 7pm

With a population of just 2500, Sare is almost small enough that you could blink and miss it. But that’s half of the charm, and this unspoiled village isn’t the type of place you’ll find in any guide book. The village is a member of the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, and the red and green shuttered Basque houses couldn’t be more picturesque.

There isn’t a lot to do there, but there are a few shops on the main square. You might also catch the locals playing a game on the pelota court. Or you might just peek inside the Eglise Saint-Martin de Sare with its three stories of oak galleries typical to the churches of the Pays Basque.

Hotel Arraya is a charming inn located in the traditional Basque village of Sare. It’s wonderfully quiet and the restaurant is an excellent place for dinner in the French Basque hinterland. The hotel has long had a reputation for their delicious cuisine, which of course, offers some of the best products of the Basque Country. When the weather is nice, you can even dine on the terrace under the plane trees. The menu is wonderfully varied with a selection from both land and sea, but it was the filet of beef that was calling our names on our rainy night in Sare.

Where to Stay in Pays Basque

Hotel Arraya

Hotel Arraya in the village of Sare is a perfect base for exploring the Pays Basque hinterland. Close to La Rhune and just 30 minutes from both Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Bayonne, the boutique hotel is a quiet retreat in one of the most charming traditional Basque villages.

Once a traveler’s hostel on the Saint James Way, it was converted in to a boutique hotel in 1951 and has been run three generations of the same family ever since. The hotel is housed in three connected 16th century buildings on the main village square with a secret garden for guests.

We stayed in one of two junior suites called the prestige rooms. These spacious rooms are perfect for a family with a second room for the kids to stay in, and they have private balconies overlooking the secret garden. We even had two Pottok ponies wander in to the pasture behind the hotel while relaxing in our room.

L’Auberge Basque

Located just 7 kilometers from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, L’Auberge Basque is set facing La Rhune mountain. With both the beach and mountains only a short drive, a stay at this luxe boutique hotel affords you country tranquility with popular attractions like the beaches and golf courses of Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz nearby. It’s also easy to explore inland sights like La Rhune, some of the traditional villages like Espelette and do some hiking.

A 350-year old traditional Basque house is home to the boutique hotel, though the owners have completely modernized the interior with chic, yet simple decor and modern amenities. Some of the rooms have a private balcony with La Rhune views, others have private terraces. There’s also a family room that can easily accommodate two adults and two children.

The swimming pool is particularly lovely if you’d like to take a dip after a summer day of exploring or hiking.

Know Before You Go

L’Auberge Basque offers a slightly more rural setting than Hotel Arraya, set in the countryside on a hill facing La Rhune mountain.

Our trip to Pays Basque was in partnership with Pays Basque Tourisme and Région Nouvelle Aquitaine in order to bring you this story. However, Luxe Adventure Traveler maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site. As always, all thoughts, opinions, and enthusiasm for travel are entirely our own. This article contains affiliate links. When you book on Booking.com through our affiliate sites, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Loved this post? We love when you share our content! ~ Jen & Tim

About Jennifer Dombrowski

Jennifer Dombrowski is an independent travel publisher and an American expat who has lived in Bordeaux, France since 2016. She previously lived in Northern Italy in a small village near Venice for seven years where she fell in love with wine and wine tourism. She is an award-winning travel writer. She is also a travel correspondent on Traveling on the American Forces Radio Network. Luxe Adventure Traveler was named one of the top travel blogs to watch by the Huffington Post and TripAdvisor, and has been featured by top publications such as National Geographic, CNN, Buzzfeed, and Business Insider. Jennifer's photography has also been featured on publications such as USA Today and Travel + Leisure and on the Travel Channel.

steph and zach dorworth says

June 9, 2018 at 8:54 PM

Never been to France but it’s on our list! Basque Country seems incredible especially all the meals you shared! Had no idea Bayonne was the capital of chocolate..wow! So cool that there’s a street filled with chocolate shops. Sounds like heaven! Loved seeing the chocolate sculpture of Louis haha

June 10, 2018 at 7:31 PM

Well you just had me at that first meal – everything looked so colorful, succulent and I could almost devour everything instantly. I love the charm of the region an towns and the landscape looks so stark but yet vibrant. It looks like a wonderful place for a getaway weekend.

June 11, 2018 at 1:45 AM

We only just scratched the surface of this region last year. We really wanted to head back. Your blog post just reinforces that. The food pics look great! I did drool a little at the dessert. But then I read that Bayonne is the chocolate capital of France. We will definitely be stopping there. But I am passing on the Espelette. So many great restaurant choices in that part of France. We always like to start a visit to an area with a panoramic view – so would definitely want to head to La Rhune. The train looks like a fun way to travel. Thanks for sharing.

Joanne says

June 11, 2018 at 6:42 AM

This seems like the perfect place to visit. Your pictures look absolutely amazing.

Medha Verma says

June 11, 2018 at 2:20 PM

I love how your post starts with food recommendations – the herb-topped crab stuffed ravioli on a bed of mushrooms looks sumptuous! The views from La Rhune are amazing, I\’d love to make it there. Also, since I love small French villages, I think a trip to Espelette would be worthwhile.

DebbZie Leksono says

June 11, 2018 at 3:14 PM

You took some brilliant food photography here! I\’m impressed with how they do the plate presentation at L’Auberge Basque, specially the amuse bouche. And the chocolate mousse with mango sorbet sounds delicious too! I\’ve never been or even heard about French Basque Country yet but I really think I\’d love this place so much as I read about The Petit Train de la Rhune. I\’ve always have a soft spot for vintage trains!. This is why I enjoy blog walking a lot as I learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing this!

Adelina says

June 11, 2018 at 5:34 PM

This sounds like an amazing itinerary. Anytime food features prominently I’m a happy camper. My husband and I are discussing France as a honeymoon destination and this would definitely fit the bill. Did you book ahead at the Michelin restaurant? If so how far in advance do you do that?

Carrie says

June 12, 2018 at 12:59 AM

I love the atmosphere of small towns that specialize in one product — those chilis hanging out to dry are so picturesque! And I had no idea there were wild horses in this part of the world. Definitely seems like a fun long weekend trip for next time I’m in Europe.

June 12, 2018 at 4:40 PM

This definitely sounds like a luxurious destination. You\’d be able to have a great, full 36 hours. I think that mango chocolate mousse dessert sounds incredible! I would definitely make a stop for loads of chocolate in Bayonne. I love chocolate towns.

Rosemary says

June 12, 2018 at 6:16 PM

Yum…Yum…and Yum!! What a delightful and delicious article. That forest/beach amuse bouche looks intriguing. Lamb, though is one of my favorite dishes, especially when it’s locally reared. I don’t know much about the Basque region of France, though Biarritz gets all the attention. This is wonderful to discover the charming Espelette town and the unique pepper heritage. Looking forward to exploring this region of France on our next trip! Great article!

Julia Jerg says

June 12, 2018 at 8:31 PM

I love the Basque Country, it’s as beautiful as you described it. Oh and the French cuisine, yum! I am hungry now, wouldn’t mind your amuse-bouche and the pudding-like hot chocolate afterwards… 🙂

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Eight of the best hikes in the Basque Country

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Freelance journalist, Emmanuelle Lapeyre has been a contributor to Sud Ouest newspaper and Sud Ouest Gourmand since 2015. This lover of the Basque Country never tires of discovering its landscapes and talents.

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This short hike is ideal for a family audience or to relax in a natural and wild setting. The route offers the hiker the opportunity to discover the natural environment of the moors. By crossing this habitat, it is possible to discover the various species of heather in the middle of gorse as well as the fauna which lives in this environment. The crossing of beautiful clearings and a path in the undergrowth by the side of a peaceful stream make this loop a diversified walk. Beautiful specimens of pollarded trees make this route even more remarkable.

Les Acacias farm is located in Urt, 15 km from Bayonne. Johan took over from his father to raise pigs fed on locally grown, GMO-free cereals. Raised to maturity, they provide a marbled meat in the tradition of pig breeding of yesteryear. Johan will be pleased to explain his profession as a breeder and all the steps of the breeding and meat processing. In the shop, a wide choice of fresh meat, cured meat including the famous Bayonne ham, and preserves are available. There are also products from local producers.

Espace Découverte Bastidarra is located near the listed village of La Bastide Clairence, 20 minutes from the Basque coast. Products made from cow's, ewe's or goat's milk are produced on site. The dairy produces stirred and steamed yogurts with South-West fruit jams or natural flavors. The farms are located less than 20km from the dairy and are part of a sustainable agriculture program. Guided tours are available on reservation, such as the guided tour and tasting of milk-based products offered in the mornings, as well as immersive tours. The store offers a wide range of local products: wines, beers, cheese by the slice, groceries, preserves...

Located in Bardos, 20 minutes from Bayonne and 5 minutes from the listed village of La Bastide Clairence, the Brasserie du Pays Basque brews and produces beers under the Eguzki, Oldarki and Zazpi brands. It's the largest brewery in Aquitaine. Five brewmasters with a passion for their craft are in charge of beer production, while their research work helps them develop the beers of tomorrow. The tour takes in the brewing process and production cycle. The tasting room at the end of the tour lets you appreciate the full range of beers produced.

In the Basque Country, in the charming village of URT, overlooking the ADOUR river. If you follow the Adour to the west for about 17km you will arrive in Bayonne and 5km further is the mouth of the river and the beaches of Anglet. The beaches and villages of South Landes are quickly accessible thanks to the Adour bridge below the village of Urt. Mountains and typical Basque villages less than 20km away

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Guéthary : a cool village

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A village facing out to the ocean

• A Basque village

A rich cultural life

Ideally located, equidistant from Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz, its prestigious and well-known neighbours, Guéthary is the smallest village on the Aquitaine coast. Indeed, it’s so small that you may inadvertently go through it on the D810 road without noticing it. What a shame! As soon as you enter the main street, after exploring the centre of the village, the salty air will draw you irrevocably towards the ocean as the ultimate goal of your visit, but before that, take some time for a little tour.

The must-sees of the village of Guéthary

A rather grand word for what it is. Indeed, there is not enough space for large boats, nor yachts or tall ships. It’s just a very modest old fishing port where local fishermen’s boats are waiting for the right moment for the pleasure of a sea excursion. That’s what makes it so charming.

The Terrace

In Guéthary, the word Terrasse is written with a capital letter because of the emblematic nature of the place. The ocean view stretches from Mount Jaizkibel in Spain to the Biarritz lighthouse. La Terrasse is the meeting place for all surfers to observe the waves. Sunsets are exceptional there.

Despite its small size, Guéthary has a worldwide reputation thanks to its surf spots. The waves are surfed by visitors from all over the world; they are quite far from the shore and sometimes dangerous due to their size and the rocks at the surface of the water that are not very visible for beginners, so they are reserved for experienced surfers.

Saraleguinea Museum

Modern sculptures in the municipal park set the tone for the contemporary art museum located a little further up, on the ground floor of an imposing neo-Basque-style house. Temporary exhibitions enable you to admire the work of local and international artists.

Herri bat itsasoari begira

The port has not changed since yesteryear

In the past, fishermen and whale hunters Formerly Guéthary was mainly focused on fishing. From the 11th to the 19th century, whaling was an activity on the coast of the Basque Country. It is difficult to imagine the life of the whale hunters looking out from the coast to spot the passage of whales. As soon as whales were reported, everyone would get ready in haste and embark on small boats to go and harpoon the sea monsters. Such risk-taking is quite inconceivable today.

A small, dry-dock port

The port of Guéthary, in addition to being the smallest on the coast, has the particularity of being in dry dock; in other words, all the boats are hoisted out of the water using a winch after each trip to sea. Considering its size, it can only accommodate a few boats and the docks are booked for years making it is very difficult or even impossible to obtain a mooring ring (or a dock). The port is protected by a short seawall and has an unsupervised beach.

Natural beaches

There are three of them, and they are sometimes inaccessible because of the tides but the "wild cove" side of the Alcyons and Cenitz beaches guarantee calm conditions and are, at low tide, places for kids to discover marine life. Sea urchins, crabs, shrimps and other strange animals live in the rock pools. In order to preserve the ecosystems you are asked to observe without touching. The size of the animals will not enable you to make a good seafood meal, so you might as well let them thrive in their natural environment. Please note that only Parlementia beach is supervised.

Guéthary, the Mecca of international surfing , is privileged to have 2 legendary waves. The "Right” wave -"Parlementi a" - which forms in Guéthary and runs aground in Bidart, with access via the port of Guéthary and the "Left" wave - "Avalanche" - with access via Alcyons beach. Right or Left indicates the direction in which the wave rolls. 

Parliamentia : the Basque Country’s legendary wave It has been known ever since the early days of surfing. Its perfect way of rolling, its size and its dangerous aspect have made its reputation: it is a legendary BIG spot on a par with the Hawaiian spots. As it is located offshore, it is difficult to estimate its size and to realise, from the shore, that it can easily reach 5 metres high. Parliamentia is a sumptuous straight line that hypnotizes all surfers.   Avalanche : a rare wave for experienced surfers The Avalanche spot is located opposite Alcyons jetty at the end of the port. It's a long, BIG spot that only appears in certain, very specific weather conditions: a complex combination of wind, tides and swells.   This wave is really reserved for experts and professionals because the surrounding rocks at water-level are invisible to untrained eyes. However, the view is spectacular seen from Alcyons jetty or the beach.

A Basque village spirit on the Basque coast

Euskal herri bat euskal kostaldean

Guéthary covers 351 acres and has 1,356 permanent residents.   Traditionally a village of fishermen and farmers, it was in 1864 with the arrival of the train and the fashion for sea bathing launched by Empress Eugenie that Guéthary turned to tourism and developed.

The fronton : the central square in Guéthary’s social life

A lively village around the central square

The Basque soul of the village is best felt at the Place du Fronton adjoining the beautiful town hall. This is the beating heart for village events and Guéthary’s very active community life. Local festivals, pelota games and shows take place here all year round. Besides the tourist attraction to the place, for Basque people the fronton remains the central point of the village with its moments of joy and conviviality, but also serious moments and endless discussions. There is not a resident of Guéthary who has not once said: "See you at the Fronton!".

The town hall : a beautiful Basque house

The neo-Basque-style town hall is listed in the inventory of historical monuments; there are traditional sculptures of Amatxi and Aitatxi (grandmother and grandfather) which often adorn the facades of town halls, a testimony of the respect paid to the wisdom and knowledge of elders.

The Terrace : a "V.I.P." observation deck in Guéthary

Panorama of the infinite ocean horizon The terrace, an essential part of your walk, offers the most beautiful panorama in Guéthary stretching from Biarritz to Hondarribia. In addition to being must-visit spot to enjoy the sunset and watch the surfers' performance, the terrace is a place of tranquillity that is perfect for meditation. Often when the sun goes down, silence sets in and everyone can enjoy this moment of eternity while waiting for the legendary ‘green flash’ sunray.   From the Terrace to the terraces .. . Easily accessible on foot from the town centre, it is a stone’s throw from "La Terrasse" to the lively terraces of the bars in Guéthary !

Bars and restaurants Indeed, these high-quality bars and restaurants are renowned for the quality of their cuisine; the bars for their "Chic and trendy" style. People happily meet along the pier for a drink and a selection of tapas or local specialties.

The coastal path passes through Guéthary

For keen walkers, the coastal path offers you the possibility of a beautiful hike. The 15.5 mile (25 km) coastal path between Bidart and Hendaye crosses the lower part of the village. The trail never goes down on the sand but always stays as close as possible to the water. If you go in the Bidart-Saint-Jean-de-Luz direction, you will go along Parlementia promenade to the port, to Alcyons jetty, then a path goes up the cliff and leads you to Cenitz beach and hill, listed by the coastal preservation authorities.   All the way along, such beautiful sea views accompany you  

Bizi kulturala aberatsa

Getari enea : a cinema with many artistic activities

After being closed for decades, this cinema has reopened, beautiful and brand new. More than a mere cinema, the Guéthary-Résidences-Arts-Ateliers-Cinéma (GRAAC) project is the idea of blending artistic disciplines and making it a place with collective cultural experiences for everyone. It is, first and foremost, an arthouse cinema with national releases, heritage films, rare films, independent films but also different formats and sound creations, for all audiences. With its associative café, evenings at Getari Enea will be accompanied by events directly linked to the films: cine-dinner, cine-snacks, cine-workshops, cine-debates. Other cultural events will complete the magic of a new place to share, accessible to everyone, to the aficionados but also to cinema fans, the curious and connoisseurs.

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Sarraleguinea museum

The museum was created in the fifties to accommodate donations from sculptor Georges Clément de Swiecinski , a sculptor who was keen on direct sculpting and an excellent portrait painter from the beginning of the 20th century. This collection includes sculptures, ceramics and numerous drawings.   A second part is devoted to Roman remains found in Guéthary. Excavations have revealed the existence of a salting factory as well as an exceptional funerary epitaph, unique in southern Aquitaine.   The third part presents the history of the village and its evolution from a small fishing port to the current seaside resort.   Finally, temporary exhibitions allow you to admire the work of local and international contemporary artists. Guéthary, while keeping its identity, often has the desire to open up to others and to stand out through the originality of its choices.

Guéthary Festival (August)

End of August

The last weekend of August: concerts, meals and entertainment for three days of festivities.

Les Belles Pages : literary event (Summer)

End of June

For the duration of a weekend, around thirty prestigious French authors attend this mini-festival and exchange views during meetings, conferences, theatrical readings and autograph sessions in a warm, relaxed atmosphere.

Classic à Guéthary : Classical music festival (August)

This classical music festival offers concerts in the church with exceptional acoustics , but also open-air musical events in various sites where one can enjoy free, high-quality concerts in the shade of the trees.

Port Festival (August)

Around 15 August

The Port Festival is organized by the seafarers' association and brings together tourists and locals around entertainment and meals of Mussels ‘n Chips . The evening ends with a fireworks display.

Herriko Haotsak: (October)

Originally this event was created to bring people from the village and the surrounding area together to celebrate their culture. Year after year, the event has grown and become the meeting place for very creative local artists in keeping with their times.

Prepare your stay in Guéthary

Zure oporrak apailtzeko

Find all the accommodation in the village, as well as all the activities and restaurants.

The accommodation in Guéthary

Restaurants in Guéthary

Activities in Guéthary

The visits to Guéthary

Also to discover

Eta ere ...

Basque coast

Nivelle valley

Gurekin harremanetan jar zaitez

Tourist Office of Pays Basque

20 Boulevard Victor Hugo 64500 SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ FRANCE

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"Pas de sur-tourisme" à Bayonne, selon le président de l'Office de tourisme Nicolas Alquié

• Juliette Bourgault
• France Bleu Pays Basque

Nicolas Alquié, président de l'Office de tourisme de Bayonne et adjoint dédié au sujet à la Ville, était l'invité de la rédaction sur France Bleu Pays Basque, ce jeudi 18 avril 2024.

Les touristes sont de retour à Bayonne en cette période de vacances scolaires. L'an dernier, il y avait 10% de visiteurs en moins dans la ville par rapport à 2022 , explique Nicolas Alquié, le président de l'Office de tourisme de Bayonne. " Ce n'est pas une baisse de fréquentation touristique, c'est une baisse de visiteurs. En 2023, on était pas loin des huit millions de visiteurs . Parmi eux, il faut distinguer les touristes, ceux qui dorment sur Bayonne, des excursionnistes, qui ne viennent que la journée. Quand on fait le distinguo sur cette même année, il y a eu plus de gens qui ont dormi sur Bayonne et un peu moins de gens qui ne dormaient pas. " À noter que l'année 2022, qui sert de comparaison, avait été exceptionnelle pour le secteur du tourisme.

Etats-Unis : 3e pays le plus représenté chez les visiteurs étrangers

Les visiteurs bayonnais sont surtout des Français. " On a une clientèle à 85 % française, donc il reste 15 % de marchés étrangers. Sur le marché étranger, les trois gros pays émetteurs sont l'Espagne, l'Allemagne et les Etats-Unis, poursuit Nicolas Alquié.  C'est la deuxième année qu'on a ce chiffre là, alors que l'on ne fait aucune activité de promotion aux Etats-Unis, mais c'est la troisième clientèle sur sur Bayonne. Je pense que c'est une donnée qu'on retrouve également sur l'ensemble du Pays basque. " Parmi la clientèle française, 75 % des visiteurs viennent de la région Nouvelle-Aquitaine, l'Occitanie et l'Île de France.

Certains habitants de Bayonne trouvent néanmoins qu'il y a trop de touristes. Le président de l'office de tourisme, qui est aussi l'adjoint au tourisme de la Ville, considère qu'il y a une nuance à considérer. " Il faut faire une différence entre le sur-tourisme et la sur-fréquentation de la ville, ce sont deux choses différentes. À Bayonne, on de la sur-fréquentation ponctuelle, liée notamment à une politique d'événements organisés par la ville , comme les Fêtes de Bayonne ou la Foire au jambon. "

Tous les épisodes

Projet marienia à cambo : le maire "ne nie pas le problème en matière d'agriculture".

Le lendemain d'un rassemblement de plus d'une centaine de personnes en soutien au maire de Cambo-les-Bains, l'édile était notre invité ce mercredi 17 avril 2024.

Zones piétonnes à Biarritz : "une très bonne idée quand c'est bien fait" pour Dominique Harriague

Dominique Harriague, co-président de l'association "Allons à vélo, allons à pied", est critique envers les deux espaces interdits aux voitures en journée, jusqu'au 12 mai 2024, dans le centre-ville de Biarritz. Ces zones devraient être mieux aménagées selon lui.

Sapeurs-pompiers : "75% des interventions, c'est du secours à la personne", estime le capitaine S. Boisvinet

Le groupement ouest, c'est une douzaine de casernes avec des sapeurs-pompiers volontaires en Pays Basque intérieur. Leur capitaine est l'invité de France Bleu Pays Basque ce lundi.

Xebax Christy, président d'Euskal Moneta, veut convaincre les jeunes d'utiliser l'Eusko

Alors que la monnaie locale fête ses 11 ans d'existence lors d'une fête à Espelette ce samedi, le président de l'association qui gère l'Eusko, Xebax Christy, est revenu sur les accomplissements, mais aussi les prochains objectifs d'Euskal Moneta.

Passage de la flamme olympique au Pays basque : "Ce sera la grande fête du sport" selon la rameuse Perle Bouge

Ils seront une centaine à se relayer pour porter la flamme olympique dans les Pyrénées-Atlantiques le 20 mai. Ce sera l'occasion d'une grande fête du sport selon Perle Bouge, multiple médaillée paralympique en aviron.

"L'électrocardiogramme peut sauver des ados", selon D. Pédaillé, le président comité départemental de rugby

Chaque année, 500 à 1000 personnes sont victimes de ce qu'on appelle la "mort subite du sportif". C'est souvent à cause d'une malformation cardiaque. Un simple électrocardiogramme peut éviter des drames. Le comité départemental de rugby mène une campagne inédite en France auprès des 13-14 ans.

"L'absence de CRS cet été nous coûte 40.000 euros de plus" selon le responsable des plages à Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Le littoral basque se prépare à la saison touristique avec le retour des MNS, les maitres nageurs sauveteurs pour assurer une baignade sans danger. Sauf que cet été, les Jeux Olympiques à Paris vont monopoliser tous les CRS. La conséquence est lourde pour les communes comme Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Les plus écoutés de France Bleu Pays Basque