dodge journey 2015 not starting

Dodge Journey Won’t Start – What Could Be Wrong?

• July 10, 2023
• Journey Maintenance/Troubleshooting

It can be tough to make it to your destination if your Dodge Journey doesn't start. But, unless you are savvy with vehicle mechanics, it can be frustrating to figure out what could be wrong on your own. That's why we have researched the Dodge Journey for you in this article to help pinpoint the culprit!

If your Dodge Journey doesn't start, it could be due to one or more of the following issues:

• Dead battery
• Faulty alternator
• Dead key fob
• Bad starter motor
• Faulty starter solenoid
• Bad starter relay
• Bad computer
• Worn spark plugs
• Bad fuel pump
• Clogged fuel filter
• Bad fuel injectors
• Faulty immobilizer

We get it; that is an intimidating list of possible reasons why your Journey isn't starting! However, to help troubleshoot the issue, it is essential to understand the functions of each part and how they play a part in starting your vehicle. In this article, we will take a detailed look at each car part and its purposes. In addition, we will discuss how much a new starter will cost and the warning signs of a failing alternator, so read on!

Dodge Journey Won't Start—What Could Be Wrong?

The Dodge Journey is no different from any vehicle makes and model that you will have issues with at some point. Vehicles are depreciated machines, which means parts will break and need to be replaced as they are used.

With that being said, what could be wrong with your Dodge Journey causing it not to start? Let's take the most common causes of this problem:

Dead Battery

A dead battery is a principal reason why a Dodge Journey won't start. The battery in the car provides the initial spark to get your car going, and if it dies, there will be no hope of getting your vehicle running again until you charge up the battery with jumper cables.

In addition, check to see if your battery terminals are corroded. If they are, then they will need to be cleaned and then reconnect the battery cables. While doing this, make sure the cables are secure on the terminals and not loose.

If you try charging and jumpstarting the battery but still can't get the Journey to start, then take the battery out and take it to an auto parts store. They will be able to test the battery and determine if you need to replace it.

Dead Key Fob

A faulty key fob will also keep your Journey from starting. If the essential fob battery dies, it cannot emit the signals to start the car. If the battery and alternator are fine, take out the key fob battery and replace it. The batteries for these key fobs aren't expensive and are an easy way to fix the problem!

Bad Starter Motor

A bad starter motor is another common reason why your Dodge Journey won't start. Again, this can be due to lack of maintenance, but the starter will wear out and stop working correctly or entirely fail over time.

Usually, bad starters will make a clicking or a grinding noise. However, if the three parts mentioned above are working correctly, it could be a starter motor issue.

Faulty Starter Solenoid

A starter solenoid is a small box that connects to the starter. It has two parts – one part attaches to the car's battery, and the other end attaches to the starter motor.

The job of a starter solenoid is to pass power from the battery to the starter motor when you turn your key in the ignition switch. When a starter solenoid fails, it will cause starting problems that generally include the car not starting when hot or even when cold.

Bad Starter Relay

A starter relay is part of the starting system. It receives a signal from the ignition switch to initiate power to the solenoid so that it can start your Journey. But, just like the starter solenoid, when it fails, it will not send power to the solenoid, and thus your Journey won't start.

Bad Computer

A computer is also known as the ECM (electronic control module) or PCM (powertrain control module). You can take these parts for granted, but they are essential to your vehicle. A computer helps run all the systems in your car, and without it, you won't be able to get very far.

The computer controls things like fuel injection, ignition timing, idle control, and more! If the problem is with the computer, your car will have many issues, including a bad idle or a lack of power.

Worn Spark Plugs

If your spark plugs are worn out, they cannot send the electric charge to the engine, and it won't start. To check if you need new spark plugs, disconnect them from their electrical connectors and clean them with a wire brush.

Visually inspect for any damage, such as cracks in the ceramic or carbon build-up on the electrodes. If you notice that the plugs are bad, then you will need to replace them.

A blown a fuse is another common cause for a car not starting. A blown a fuse will not let the power flow between the battery and fuel pump, so your Journey won't start without gas!

Bad Fuel Pump

Your fuel pump sends gasoline from the gas tank to the engine so that it can run. If your fuel pump is broken, you won't have any fuel going into the engine and, therefore, no start to test if it's a bad pump, press down on your gas pedal a few times to see if it starts up.

Clogged Fuel Filter

A fuel filter filters the gasoline before it reaches your engine to clean and safe for combustion. If you have a clogged fuel filter, then there won't be enough pressure in the system to start up the car.

Bad Fuel Injectors

Fuel injectors are small parts in your engine that spray gasoline into the engine to make it run. If one of these is clogged or broken, there won't be enough gas going through and, therefore, no start!

Faulty Immobilizer System

An immobilizer system is a computerized security device in your car that prevents it from starting without the proper key.

If the immobilizer system does not receive a valid code, then your Journey will not start. You can determine if this is an issue by checking if the doors open and close appropriately with both fob keys.

How do I Know if my Alternator is Bad on my Dodge Journey?

An alternator takes the energy stored in a battery and converts it into a form that the car can run. A car will not start if its alternator is not producing electricity. You can jumpstart the battery, but you will find that it won't be long before the battery dies again.

I tell sign that your alternator is going bad is if you charge the battery and start driving again only for components such as the air conditioner, radio, and other parts to turn off slowly. Suppose this starts to happen; pull over to the side of the road and get the vehicle towed to a mechanic shop.

A car's alternator usually runs quietly and only makes noise when it is going bad, so before you take your Dodge Journey to the shop, make sure you check the alternator first as this could be the problem.

How Do you Start a Dodge Journey with a Dead Key Fob?

If you know for a fact that your key fob battery is dead , then you may think you are out of luck. However, you may be able to start the Journey still if the battery is dead. First, try starting the Journey by pressing the push to start button with the key fob itself. Sometimes this will help the vehicle recognize the key fob and start the vehicle!

How Much Does a Dodge Journey Starter Cost?

The cost to replace a Dodge Journey starter can vary depending on the model year. In addition, different mechanics in different regions may charge a different hourly labor price. However, you can expect to pay on average $180 to $250 for a full starter replacement. It never hurts to get different price quotes from certified mechanics in your area, including a Dodge dealer themselves.

Can you Jumpstart Dodge Journey?

You can jumpstart a Journey with the help of another vehicle or with a charged jump box. First, you have to connect the red cable to the positive terminal and the black cable to the negative terminal. Then, start the car you are using for the jump or turn on the jump box.

Give the battery a few minutes to charge before trying to start the Dodge Journey. If the Journey seems like it is trying to start but struggling, then resecure the battery cables and give it another try.

Final Thoughts

Overall, if your Dodge Journey isn't starting, then start with the basics. Check your key fob battery and try jumpstarting the battery. These are inexpensive troubleshoot options and usually the most common reason why your vehicle won't start. If those don't work, you may have a more significant issue and need to see a mechanic for a diagnosis.

For more articles, check these out:

Is The Dodge Journey A Van Or SUV?

How Much Does A Dodge Journey Cost?

Here's What The Dodge Grand Caravan Interior Is Like

Related posts:

• Is the Dodge Journey a Van or SUV?
• How Much Weight Can A Dodge Journey Carry?
• Hyundai Veloster Won’t Start—What Could Be Wrong?
• How Much Does a Dodge Journey Cost?

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• Electrical, Battery & Charging

Updates and the infamous 'one click no crank' issue

• 2010 journey sxt single click no crank

By Tedybear315 September 10, 2020 in Electrical, Battery & Charging

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Tedybear315.

Okay, it's been a while and a lot of parts under the bridge... Background:  2010 Dodge Journey SXT.   Late sisters ride and I'm the one that is driving it now.

Past issue(s)  Horn goes off at random times.    Found TIPM was defective and replaced.  Same TIPM was also causing the cooling fan to run at random times.  So tentatively the horn issue is fixed, and the cooling fan and the battery drain issue are gone!

Remaining problems.. Good lord..

The starter problem.  This one is like a rash all over the web and youtube!.    Needless to say we did fire the parts cannon slightly.

The original starter was pulling 225amps.  And the battery was only supplying 275amps according to the test at the auto store.    So new battery installed!  And we did swap out the battery cables from the battery to the firewall points (the ground strap and the jump point).  All that is 100% good. 

The Journey was still doing the super loud click from the starter and no crank.  Usually that's a dead spot in the starter.  So we replaced the starter with a new REMY brand.  (I love finding new parts at the pick and pull  yards.  But I do feel bad for the owner of the car that was rear ended....that must have sucked)

Right off the bat?  Single CLICK and no crank.  Cycled the key a few times and it finally turned over great guns! and started up.    So I'm thinking maybe the used TIPM had issues.  I grabbed another spare from the yard and installed it.  No change.  The replacement one did have a blown fuse for the cooling fan (replaced and it's fine.  The junker I removed it from had a front end crash and the radiator/fan was crushed a bit...that would explain the fuse) 

So I'm thinking:  NO way this can be another bad TIPM.  Makes zero statistical sense to have a total of 4 (including the factory one) doing the exact same random 'click no crank'...

Issues removed as being potential problems:

New Battery installed.  525CCA brand new.

4 TIPMs later....  Statistically not possible to have 4 in a row with the same exact issue.

New(er) starter replaced.  When I put it into 'clear flood' once it starts to crank...  This thing spins the engine wicked quick!! and is smooth as silk. 

Battery cables replaced.

Mounting points for the grounds wire wheeled down for a 100% glitch free mating surface.  I also cleaned the cables to the starter while it was out.

It can't be an issue with the security system.  That is a different set of symptoms. 

Pending more diag work:   It did the single click no start at the gas station.  Cycled the key about a dozen times and then it decided to start.

Have my scan tool installed and checked the PID for the transmission position.  The range selector appears to be okay.

The ignition switch when I hold it in various positions (including the start) appears to be okay and doesn't glitch out according to the scan tool

I did try the place the transmission into neutral and give it a shot!    It worked for a few starts, and then did the single click no crank in Neutral.  The scan tool didn't flinch either.  It showed both Park and Neutral each time it flaked out.

Noted when this problem acts up.  The PID for the Starter Relay.   When this problem does happen:  The PID toggles from 'off' to 'on' for the click.  It toggles back almost instantly back to 'off' before it has a chance to spin!  So right there...  It's not a starter issue, it's not a battery issue.... It's something else telling the Journey not to attempt to spin over.

I'm going to mod one of the spare relays I have on hand with a heavy gauge wire and momentary switch.  So when this acts up and refuses to start, at least I can pop the hood and use a relay bypass to run the starter with the key on.  (should save on being stranded...)

I'm not totally sold on it being the range selector in the transmission.  But I do need to replace the side/rear cover that sits behind the LF tire as it's weeping some fluid.  So I might consider  replacing  the range selector while I"m in the neighborhood.  

Any ideas are welcome.  This issue is allllll over Google and there are far and few resolutions listed.  Usually people pi$$ and moan about it...Try the neutral start trick (works for them for a while.....) and then they vanish without saying if they ever figured it out!

If I track down a solution I'll 100% post it!  Of course as mentioned.  Ideas are welcome!  The wife and I are already planning on doing a full transmission fluid/filter change when we do the side/rear cover.  And in about 5000 miles?   Timing Belt will be due....That should be fun...

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John/Horace

One of the more common things to stop a running vehicle is the cps sensor. It can also cause random no starts.

Sometimes no code I stored for this issue. Not an expensive part and eventually a wear item on most vehicles.Even oem part is cheap. Usually cps fault shuts off fuel pump and doesn’t stop cranking. But it can be different on some vehicles.  

Next time there is a no crank, pull the starter relay and make up a jumper wire. On the starter relay the two contacts that show as squiggles or moving contacts should be jumpered for a second. I think it’s 30 and 87 contacts.

This bypasses all the safety circuits, so make sure vehicle is in park, even parking brake on. If you still get clicks and no start then the issue is directly related to starter unit. (solenoid, cables etc) If it always turns over with jumper it’s one of the safety/security systems acting up. Like the park neutral switch.  

One of the ground legs on starter relay I think is the park neutral signal. A proper wiring diagram Would show which one it is. A ground jumper to this contact would temporarily by pass it and prove if it is the problem without actually changing it out. I did this in on old jeep I had with the neutral switch buried inside tranny. Good luck.  

8 hours ago, John/Horace said: One of the more common things to stop a running vehicle is the cps sensor. It can also cause random no starts. Sometimes no code I stored for this issue. Not an expensive part and eventually a wear item on most vehicles.Even oem part is cheap. Usually cps fault shuts off fuel pump and doesn’t stop cranking. But it can be different on some vehicles.   Next time there is a no crank, pull the starter relay and make up a jumper wire. On the starter relay the two contacts that show as squiggles or moving contacts should be jumpered for a second. I think it’s 30 and 87 contacts. This bypasses all the safety circuits, so make sure vehicle is in park, even parking brake on. If you still get clicks and no start then the issue is directly related to starter unit. (solenoid, cables etc) If it always turns over with jumper it’s one of the safety/security systems acting up. Like the park neutral switch.   One of the ground legs on starter relay I think is the park neutral signal. A proper wiring diagram Would show which one it is. A ground jumper to this contact would temporarily by pass it and prove if it is the problem without actually changing it out. I did this in on old jeep I had with the neutral switch buried inside tranny. Good luck.      

Interesting.  So far the car hasn't stopped running and the scan tool isn't reporting any cam/crank issues or fluctuation.  When it does act up like it does from time to time it just clicks the starter solenoid that one time and doesn't stay active long enough to spin the engine.    However I will check into the Crank Position sensor.  I have found several blown ABS sensors (same principle of operation) so I can see where replacing might solve a problem before it gets worse.

I'm going to take an old relay  (I've got about 2 dozen..LOL)  and gut it out.  And then install a momentary push button switch that as you say-  Should bypass all the safety and run it directly off the starter relay.  I know auto parts stores sell relay bypass tools, but I've got a box of spare bits and such and can build it.

Finding a wiring diagram is proving hard.  No service manuals can be purchased in hard copy format.  I've found several sites from China and Korea that claim to have all the goodies.  But not sure how far I trust them.

I'll dig into it more after I build a relay bypass. 

You may have tried this already....Could be the coil in starter relay is flaky. Mark one in use now and swap with another one.

3 minutes ago, John/Horace said: You may have tried this already....Could be the coil in starter relay is flaky. Mark one in use now and swap with another one.

Yep.  Also we changed the entire TIPM as well.  I'm getting quite fast with changing those out.    Looking over the complaint list about this problem and it reads like a rash!  My  late sister had this thing into the dealership several times for this issue, and all they claimed was  "Loose Ground Wires".   I've triple checked 'em all and everything is super clean and tight.  

In many cases Dodge seems to acknowledge a problem exists...and then say it can't identify the source of the problem even if it's at one of their dealerships.   I'd be the first one to say  "Get a designer on a plane" to where the Journey is located (the guys and gals that built this thing...that know every bit of wire and switches) and have it properly diagnosed, or send some of these lemons back to the manufacturing plant for a full inspection/tear down.  The problem is clearly a severe one that effects a large number of these SUV's,  and should be fully addressed in order to generate some good faith between Dodge and the Journey owners.

The issue is clearly with the starter circuit, so they should be able to isolate that circuit and figure out what system is causing this to occur.   This looks more like a company (and let's be honest...  ALL car companies have and are still doing this) that is making so many circuits co-dependent on other circuits...and making this so incredibility complex it's like working on a rube goldberg machine.  It's a simple starter circuit!  But it's made so complex the simplest problem can gum up the works.

• 2 years later...

Well, my one click no start was caused by the range sensor. Tried almost everything, new ground wire, cleaned the ground wires, new battery, starter, altinator. Changed range sensor and all is good again. 

Think that might be the root cause.

But I'll be dipped if my scan tool can see any glitching with the range sensor.  I figure it might be dropping out the signal so fast that my scanner doesn't have a fast enough refresh rate to catch it.

However we are still able to start it by shifting back and forth to neutral to park.  Sometimes it takes a few hits.  I did check out a range sensor while at the local P&P yards.  (nice-pay a couple of bucks and get an education)  The range sensor appears to be buried inside the transaxle itself and looks to be a PITA to get to.  

Just going to continue to nurse it along for now.  We just dropped in a crap ton of maintenance items after the engine had a thermostat fail.  (It stuck closed while I was doing 70 down the interstate.  Pulled over within a few seconds and shut it down.)  It popped the rear HVAC heater "y' pipe-  So we replaced that, upper hose, radiator cap and thermostat.   And it was due for the timing belt and water pump.  So that's all done.

Now we're fighting with a mystery drop in coolant in the reserve jug and I'll probably swap out the thermostat with a different brand-  It takes FOREVER for it to heat up and we're getting into the cold fall/winter months soon.  (The gauge creeps up super slow to the mid-mark...and the heat sucks)  Did a pressure test on it and it held a decent pressure for about 45 minutes.  Yes it did drop about 7 PSI.  But my pressure tester has a few minor leak issues and rarely seals right.  For it to still have about 10PSI on the gauge,  I'd call that acceptable.  (plus no puddles under the ol' girl.)

I topped it off again and marked the level.  I did a basic combustion gas check and it passed before.  Either it's still got air to purge out-  Or something's going on that's unusual.

Have a good night!

any way it might be the key switch itself?

This time I brought it to my local dealer, hoping they could find the cause that I and countless mechanics couldn't find. This is what they wrote

Transmission Range sensor excessive internal resistance. verified customers concern, scanned vehicle for DTCs (none related), checked service bulletins (none applied)

load tested battery (passed), Voltage drop tested battery cables and connections (OK), Load tested main engine ground (OK), load tested T750 starter solenoid output circuit (OK), 

checked all related connectors for defects (none found), Load tested T41 Park Sense Circuit (Failed), Checked resistance for T41 Circuit through Range Sensor (Excessive)

CORRECTION:

Removed front and lower transmission pans, Valve body for access, replaced transmission range sensor assembly as required, replaced transmission sump filter and seal, reinstalled

valve body, cleaned and resealed transmission pans,  refilled transmission with new fluid, cleaned all DTCs, cleared all VLP counts, performed TCM Quicklearn routine, road tested vehicle and rechecked (OK)

I hope this helps someone and I'm glad this is behind me. 

9 hours ago, iceman2k4 said: This time I brought it to my local dealer, hoping they could find the cause that I and countless mechanics couldn't find. This is what they wrote   CAUSE: Transmission Range sensor excessive internal resistance. verified customers concern, scanned vehicle for DTCs (none related), checked service bulletins (none applied) load tested battery (passed), Voltage drop tested battery cables and connections (OK), Load tested main engine ground (OK), load tested T750 starter solenoid output circuit (OK),  checked all related connectors for defects (none found), Load tested T41 Park Sense Circuit (Failed), Checked resistance for T41 Circuit through Range Sensor (Excessive) CORRECTION: Removed front and lower transmission pans, Valve body for access, replaced transmission range sensor assembly as required, replaced transmission sump filter and seal, reinstalled valve body, cleaned and resealed transmission pans,  refilled transmission with new fluid, cleaned all DTCs, cleared all VLP counts, performed TCM Quicklearn routine, road tested vehicle and rechecked (OK)   I hope this helps someone and I'm glad this is behind me.   

just wondering for others that might wonder ,how much did the dealership charge for this repair and glad it fixed your problem

1 hour ago, 2late4u said: just wondering for others that might wonder ,how much did the dealership charge for this repair and glad it fixed your problem

Curious myself.  We simply move the shifter to Neutral and back to Park a few times when it happens.  Glad to see the dealership actually did some checks.  My late sister used to own this beast and she had it at several repair shops and the local dealership that blamed it on a bad engine ground.  "Tightened ground at body".  Charged her about $150 and it acted up a few days later.  

I looked over the grounds to the engine myself.  Didn't see anything unusual.  Nice and tight with clean contacts.  Some dealerships just want to rush things in and out and do not care about the outcome.

I live in Canada and nothing is cheap here. I did have them change the tranny filter while they were in there. With that and tax at 13% the total came to $1146.24. Labor was $909 dollars of that. I could've brought it somewhere else to get the work done for less but they found it and I had them do the work. For me it was worth every penny. 

• 1 year later...

I have a 2014 dodge journey  and it started with the 1 click no start and after I replaced  the battery  and starter and starter relay it still had the same issue  1 click no start . What I found out is there are 3 post that has ground wires on them behind the fuse box under the hood each one has to be well grounded in order to start and I added a ground wire tieing them all together and then added a ground wire to the engine block . Then I replaced both battery terminals with brass terminals and it worked . The journey starts every time and has not let me down again . So if you have the same issue  try tieing all the grounds together  and adding a ground to the block it should start and work . Also make to coat all the grounds with a anti Corrosion 

18 hours ago, Clintont11 said: I have a 2014 dodge journey  and it started with the 1 click no start and after I replaced  the battery  and starter and starter relay it still had the same issue  1 click no start . What I found out is there are 3 post that has ground wires on them behind the fuse box under the hood each one has to be well grounded in order to start and I added a ground wire tieing them all together and then added a ground wire to the engine block . Then I replaced both battery terminals with brass terminals and it worked . The journey starts every time and has not let me down again . So if you have the same issue  try tieing all the grounds together  and adding a ground to the block it should start and work . Also make to coat all the grounds with a anti Corrosion 

That's been mentioned before.There is definitely corrosion that gets on those grounds, a removal and cleanup does wonders.

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Home » Troubleshooting » Dodge Journey dead battery symptoms, causes, and how to jump start

Dodge Journey dead battery symptoms, causes, and how to jump start

Dodge Journey needs a healthy 12 volt battery for normal operation of the vehicle. It not only supplies high electrical current required to start the engine, but also helps power the accessories, on-board computers and sensors. So, what happens when this battery becomes too weak?

The most common symptoms of dead battery in Dodge Journey are slow engine crank, no start, dim lights, flickering dashboard lights and clicking noises when trying to start the engine. The most common causes of dead battery in Journey are internal degradation of the battery due to old age, and bad alternator – but can also be caused by parasitic draw, and if the vehicle has been parked for a long time.

1. Slow engine crank

The 12 volt battery is a vital component of the starting system in Dodge Journey. It powers the starter motor that turns over the engine. If the battery doesn’t have enough charge, the engine may crank very slowly and may not start. Slow crank is usually the first symptom of a dying battery.

Symptom: Slow engine crank sound

2. clicking noise and no start.

The leading cause of clicking noise and no start in Dodge Journey is weak battery. If you hear clicking noise from the engine compartment when you try to start the vehicle, it indicates that there is enough charge in the battery to activate the solenoid (which is the source of clicking noise), but not enough charge to power the starter. The starter motor requires high electric current to turn over the engine, whereas lights and wipers take very little current to operate – so don’t rule out weak battery even if electrical accessories work normally in your Journey.

3. Flickering dashboard lights

Another symptom of weak battery in Journey is flickering dashboard lights and/or rapid clicking noise when you try to start the engine. If there isn’t enough charge in the battery to power the starter motor, and you try to crank the engine, the battery voltage will get so low that it can’t properly power the lights, accessories and of-course the starter. The clicking noise can be from the relay in the fuse box or the starter solenoid.

Symptom: Rapid clicking sound

How to test the battery in journey.

The easiest method to check the 12v battery in Journey is by measuring the voltage with a multimeter. A healthy battery should have 12.6 volts or more when fully charged. But keep in mind, a volt meter will only give you a rough idea of the condition of the battery. Sometimes a battery showing over 12.4 volts may not be able to supply enough current to crank the engine.

Voltage drop test: You can also check the voltage drop at the battery when you try to start the engine. If the voltage drops too much, below 10 volts, your battery doesn’t have enough charge to start the engine. This can happen due to internal degradation of the battery, if the vehicle has been sitting for a long time, or if the alternator in your Journey has malfunctioned and not charging the battery properly.

How to jump start Journey

To rule out dead battery, your best course of action is to jump start your Journey using jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or using a battery booster if available.

Requirements: The engine of both the vehicles should be off, and the transmission in Park.

• Connect the red cable to the positive terminal of the dead battery in Journey.
• Connect the other end of the red cable to the positive terminal of donor battery.
• Connect the black cable to the negative terminal of donor battery.
• Finally connect the other end of the black cable to any bare unpainted metal part of the body or engine of your Journey.
• Start your Journey.
• Remove the cables in the reverse order.

Warning: There is always a risk of burning up the alternator or other electrical components if the engine of the donor battery vehicle is running during jump start. Therefore it is recommended to keep the engine of the donor vehicle off when jump starting your Journey.

Recommended video

Replace the dead battery

If the battery in your Journey has become too weak and loses its charge quickly after recharging it by running the engine for some time or with a battery charger, its time to replace the old battery. Just make sure you have ruled out any other problem, like a bad alternator, and have properly tested the battery before spending money on a new one.

• Then disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
• Remove all the bolts from the tie-down and take out the battery.
• Clean the disconnected terminals and the surface under the battery.
• Place in the new battery.
• Screw in all the bolts and tighten them down. Make sure the battery is snug.
• Then connect the negative terminal of the battery.
• Apply some silicone grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion.

Causes of dead battery

Internal degradation of the battery.

The leading cause of dead battery in Dodge Journey is internal degradation due to old age. Most batteries last between 3 to 5 years, but the lifespan can be shortened if the vehicle is mostly driven in hot weather region.

Faulty alternator

The alternator in Journey converts mechanical energy from the engine to electricity that not only powers all the on-board accessories, but also charges the battery. If the alternator develops a fault and stops generating electricity, the entire electrical load of the vehicle will shift to the battery. This drains out the battery quickly as it is no longer getting charged by the alternator. You don’t need to replace the battery in this case.

Alternators can fail at any time, but generally they last over 100,000 miles. The easiest method to check the alternator is by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running.

Parasitic draw

If your Journey continues to draw excessive electric current from the battery after you turn off the ignition, it is called parasitic draw. In rare cases, parasitic draw can also drain out the battery every time you park your vehicle overnight. Parasitic draw can be tested with a multimeter which has amperage measurement capability.

Parked for a long time

Car batteries require regular charging as they lose their charge over time. If your Journey has been sitting in the garage for months, the battery will eventually drain out and you won’t be able to start the engine. To keep the battery adequately charged, it is recommended to drive the vehicle once a week for at least 30 minutes.

Poor battery connection can cause dead battery symptoms

It is possible the battery in your Dodge Journey is in good health, but the current flow is interrupted due to a loose electrical connection, a damaged wire, or corrosion on the battery terminals. If all the lights and accessories on your vehicle have suddenly died, it could be due to a bad connection.

Corrosion on battery terminals

Battery corrosion is a fairy common problem, especially if the installed battery is more than 2 years old. Corrosion occurs when the battery acid reacts with the metal terminals which can lead to loss of contact and reduced current flow. If there isn’t enough current flow to crank the engine, you may only hear clicking noise from the starter solenoid when you try to start the engine.

Check battery terminals

To know if your Journey starting problems are from dirty battery terminals, you need to investigate them. Lift the plastic covers over the terminals and check for any signs of corrosion. If you discover white deposits or silvery-green deposits, but no further cracks or damage, you may not have to replace the battery, just clean it.

Clean the battery terminals

Quick cleaning: There is a neat little trick with which you can clean corrosion on the battery terminals of your Journey in under a minute. Pour hot boiling water over the corroded terminals and the corrosion will just melt away. Do one terminal at a time and don’t let water puddle on the top of the battery touch both terminals at the same time, this can short the battery.

Thorough cleaning: To thoroughly clean the battery in your Dodge Journey, you have to remove the terminal cables first, which requires no special knowledge, just a little concentration, as the order is very important. First remove the black cable from the negative terminal using a wrench or a plier. Next you can unplug the red positive terminal cable. Be careful not to touch both terminals with your metal tool, it will be one expensive mistake. Once the battery has been removed from the circuit, you can start cleaning the corroded battery with sandpaper or wire brush. After cleaning, reconnect the cables in reverse order, positive first, then negative.

Poor ground connection can cause dead battery symptoms

What is a ground connection.

The negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body/chassis of Journey, called a ground connection. The engine also requires a ground connection to function, but the way the engine is mounted, it does not allow the electric current to flow between the engine and the body (due to non-conductive rubber insulated engine mounts). For this purpose, a ground strap/wire is used to connect the engine and the chassis.

What happens when the ground connection goes bad?

If the ground connection of the chassis or the engine goes bad in your Journey due to rust or corrosion, you will face all sorts of electrical issues, including clicking noises and no start problem. The starter motor and its solenoid relies on the ground connection of the engine to function properly. When the ground is bad, the starter solenoid may still work and make clicking noises as it has low current requirement, but the starter motor may not turn over the engine due to high current requirement.

How to check if the ground connection is good?

You can check the quality of the ground connection in Journey by doing a conductivity test between the negative terminal of the battery and the engine. Take a multimeter, change its settings to ohms symbol. Touch one probe to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other probe to any exposed metal part of the engine. The reading should be at or very close to zero ohms. Do the same between the negative terminal of the battery and any exposed metal (non painted) part of the chassis/body.

Inspect and clean the ground connections

If the conductivity test fails, check the condition of the ground connections in your Journey. Inspect the connectors of the ground cables (battery to body, body to engine) for any signs of rust or corrosion. Clean the contacts with a sandpaper.

If your Dodge Journey is hard to start, has slow crank, or makes clicking noise when you try to start the engine, it most probably is due to dead battery. But before replacing the battery, you should rule out any other problems that may cause the dead battery symptoms, e.g. bad alternator, loose battery connection, or poor ground connection. Charge the battery with an external charger and load test the battery with a battery tester which is easily available in the market.

You obviously did not know where the battery is located on a Dodge Journey of any year. FYI it is located in front of the driver side wheel and you can not get to the terminals unless you take the wheel off and remove the plastic wheel well material. There are terminals under the hood for jump starting.

The video in the article shows how to jump start by connecting to the terminals under the hood.

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Dodge Journey: Won’t Start When Cold → Diagnosis

Extreme weather can be very difficult on your Dodge Journey.  If there is an issue it often make itself known when conditions are at their worst.  When it’s extremely hot. it’s the cooling system that is put to the test.  In the winter, the vehicle won’t start when it is cold.  

There are a few different reasons that can cause this, but it’s usually your Journey’s battery that can’t handle turning the engine when it’s cold.

It very well could be the cold weather that is keeping your Journey from starting.  But, you don’t want to rule out that it’s just not starting, and it  happens to be cold.  Check out Dodge Journey Not Starting if this seems it may be an issue for you.

Dodge Journey:  Won’t Start Cold – Causes

1. Battery Capacity Diminished

Far and away the number one reason that your Journey won’t start in the cold is the battery.  A battery has two different ratings, cranking amps and cold cranking amps.  Cold cranking amps are the batteries ability to start turn the engine over when it is cold.

Battery capacity diminishes with time and use.  So it may have enough cranking capacity to start the vehicle when it is warm, but when it’s cold, it just isn’t enough to turn the engine over anymore.

2. Wrong Battery

If you happened to have purchased a battery when the weather was warm, and now less than a year later it’s not starting your Journey, you may have purchased a battery that doesn’t have the cold cranking capacity that your car needs to get started.  

This often happens when you have a six cylinder model, and you get the battery for a four cylinder.  They don’t have quite enough capacity to turn over a heavier motor when it’s really cold.

3. Wrong Oil Viscosity

If you put a heavier oil in during the warmer months, it’s not as likely to keep your Journey from starting.  But, in the winter, it’ll make itself known.  The heavier molecules in the thicker oil can keep the engine from turning over fast enough to start.  For instance, maybe you bought 10W-30 when the manufacturer called for 5W-30.

4. Water in Fuel Line

Condensation can build up in the gas tank as temperatures change.  If the condensation finds its way into your Dodge Journey’s fuel line, it can freeze and leave the engine unable to turn over.  If the engine is cranking fast, as though the battery is fine, this is a definite possibility.

How to Start Your Journey in the Cold

Here are some tried and true ways to start your car in the cold.  They are presented in a way that would help you troubleshoot a car that you may be sitting in right now in the order that makes most sense for getting you moving right away.  Most of the time it’s going to be a battery related issue, so that’s what we are focusing on.

1. Turn on All of the Accessories and Lights

This may sound counterintuitive when the battery isn’t working very well to begin with.  What you are trying to do is give your Journey’s battery a little time to “wake up”.  Once you do that go ahead and turn the key to the “on” position, but don’t start the car for at least 10 seconds.  This gives the fuel pump plenty of time to prime the injectors.  Now, go ahead and try turning the engine over and see if it’ll start.

2. Warm the Battery

If you are at home, and aren’t in a rush, you can unhook the battery and take it inside.  This will allow it to heat up to a temperature that’ll get the electrons in it moving.  Leave it inside for a few hours.  This can really help it crank the car over.  Be careful handling the battery.

3. Jump Start

Jumping the Journey will get it moving around again in no time.  Jump starting utilizes the power from another vehicles battery and alternator to charge your battery and help the vehicle start right there on the spot.  You don’t want to let the engine cool all the way down, as it probably won’t start on its own until it’s warm outside.

4. Replace the Battery

You can take the battery into the local parts store to have it tested.  That would be prudent before outright replacing it.  You should look up the cold cranking requirement for your particular Journey’s engine and model year.

You want to get a battery that can handle at a minimum what the manufacturer recommends.   Cold cranking amps are a standard.  A battery must crank for 30 seconds at 0° with a minimum voltage in order to meet it.

Conclusion:  Journey Won’t Start in the Cold

If any of the battery related issues ended up being the reason why your Dodge Journey wouldn’t start, it’s time to replace the battery.  If it warms back up outside, you may get a few good starts out of it, but its days are numbered.

Trains Moscow to Elektrostal: Times, Prices and Tickets

• Train Times
• Seasonality
• Accommodations

Moscow to Elektrostal by train

The journey from Moscow to Elektrostal by train is 32.44 mi and takes 2 hr 7 min. There are 71 connections per day, with the first departure at 12:15 AM and the last at 11:46 PM. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Elektrostal by train for as little as or as much as . The best price for this journey is .

Get from Moscow to Elektrostal with Virail

Virail's search tool will provide you with the options you need when you want to go from Moscow to Elektrostal. All you need to do is enter the dates of your planned journey, and let us take care of everything else. Our engine does the hard work, searching through thousands of routes offered by our trusted travel partners to show you options for traveling by train, bus, plane, or carpool. You can filter the results to suit your needs. There are a number of filtering options, including price, one-way or round trip, departure or arrival time, duration of journey, or number of connections. Soon you'll find the best choice for your journey. When you're ready, Virail will transfer you to the provider's website to complete the booking. No matter where you're going, get there with Virail.

How can I find the cheapest train tickets to get from Moscow to Elektrostal?

Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. You can find train tickets for prices as low as , but it may require some flexibility with your travel plans. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets. Unfortunately, no price was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find price results. Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets.

How long does it take to get from Moscow to Elektrostal by train?

The journey between Moscow and Elektrostal by train is approximately 32.44 mi. It will take you more or less 2 hr 7 min to complete this journey. This average figure does not take into account any delays that might arise on your route in exceptional circumstances. If you are planning to make a connection or operating on a tight schedule, give yourself plenty of time. The distance between Moscow and Elektrostal is around 32.44 mi. Depending on the exact route and provider you travel with, your journey time can vary. On average, this journey will take approximately 2 hr 7 min. However, the fastest routes between Moscow and Elektrostal take 1 hr 3 min. If a fast journey is a priority for you when traveling, look out for express services that may get you there faster. Some flexibility may be necessary when booking. Often, these services only leave at particular times of day - or even on certain days of the week. You may also find a faster journey by taking an indirect route and connecting in another station along the way.

How many journeys from Moscow to Elektrostal are there every day?

On average, there are 71 daily departures from Moscow to Elektrostal. However, there may be more or less on different days. Providers' timetables can change on certain days of the week or public holidays, and many also vary at particular times of year. Some providers change their schedules during the summer season, for example. At very busy times, there may be up to departures each day. The providers that travel along this route include , and each operates according to their own specific schedules. As a traveler, you may prefer a direct journey, or you may not mind making changes and connections. If you have heavy suitcases, a direct journey could be best; otherwise, you might be able to save money and enjoy more flexibility by making a change along the way. Every day, there are an average of 18 departures from Moscow which travel directly to Elektrostal. There are 53 journeys with one change or more. Unfortunately, no connection was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find connections.

Book in advance and save

If you're looking for the best deal for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal, booking train tickets in advance is a great way to save money, but keep in mind that advance tickets are usually not available until 3 months before your travel date.

Stay flexible with your travel time and explore off-peak journeys

Planning your trips around off-peak travel times not only means that you'll be able to avoid the crowds, but can also end up saving you money. Being flexible with your schedule and considering alternative routes or times will significantly impact the amount of money you spend on getting from Moscow to Elektrostal.

Always check special offers

Checking on the latest deals can help save a lot of money, making it worth taking the time to browse and compare prices. So make sure you get the best deal on your ticket and take advantage of special fares for children, youth and seniors as well as discounts for groups.

Unlock the potential of slower trains or connecting trains

If you're planning a trip with some flexible time, why not opt for the scenic route? Taking slower trains or connecting trains that make more stops may save you money on your ticket – definitely worth considering if it fits in your schedule.

Best time to book cheap train tickets from Moscow to Elektrostal

The cheapest Moscow - Elektrostal train tickets can be found for as low as $35.01 if you’re lucky, or $54.00 on average. The most expensive ticket can cost as much as $77.49.

Find the best day to travel to Elektrostal by train

When travelling to Elektrostal by train, if you want to avoid crowds you can check how frequently our customers are travelling in the next 30-days using the graph below. On average, the peak hours to travel are between 6:30am and 9am in the morning, or between 4pm and 7pm in the evening. Please keep this in mind when travelling to your point of departure as you may need some extra time to arrive, particularly in big cities!

Moscow to Elektrostal CO2 Emissions by Train

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