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The Ultimate Travel Guide to Nakatsugawa, Japan (2024)

• Last Updated: February 6, 2024

Everything you need to know about what to do, where to stay and how to get around in our ultimate travel guide to Nakatsugawa, Japan!

Situated almost halfway between Tokyo and Kyoto along the JR Line, Nakatsugawa in the Gifu prefecture is in a perfect location for all visitors to stop off and explore.

With the Kiso River winding its way through the region, creating epic natural wonders like Ena Gorge and the Ena Valley, its beauty needs to be seen to be believed.

The historic Nakasendo Route leads right through the nearby Edo-era post town of Magome-juku, and close by you can hike to the top of Mt Ena.

Further from town you’ll find some of the Gifu Prefecture’s most epic landscapes, like Tsukechi Gorge and the tumbling falls.

But for some reason, despite all the incredible attractions, Nakatsugawa is often removed from travellers’ ‘places to visit in Japan’ list.

READ MORE: Check out our ultimate Japan travel guide , filled with the latest and best information you need to explore this great country!

This is such a shame, because as we found on our most recent trip to Japan, Nakatsugawa is one of the country’s most splendid highlights.

We were lucky enough to spend two full days exploring this fantastic city and all of its wonderful surroundings, and couldn’t believe just how fantastic it is.

To help (and encourage) other travellers to visit, we’ve put together this Nakatsugawa, Japan travel guide filled with all of our recommendations, tips and advice.

Do yourself a favour – next time you’re in Japan, set aside a few days to explore this mind-blowing city.

Table of Contents

Walking Tour of Nakatsugawa

Hazama sake brewery, bus to tsumago from nakatsugawa, getting to magome from nakatsugawa by bus, buses from to nakatsugawa from magome by bus, stone pavement in ochiai, magome observatory, tsukechi gorge, yumori park, naegi castle by bus, cycle tour , hotel hanasarasa, plaza hotel, where to eat in nakatsugawa, chino , do not rush through, bring your hiking shoes, carry coins or a suica card, the best things to do in nakatsugawa city and surrounding area.

To start off our article we want to dive straight into all the best things to do in Nakatsugawa City, and the surrounding area.

Whether you love nature, history, or even sake, you’re sure to have an awesome time here!

The very first thing you should do in Nakatsugawa, or any city in the world for that matter, is go on a walking tour.

Most people who come into Nakatsugawa head straight up to Magome, but before you make your way up there, spend a bit of time walking around the city.

It has a fascinating Japanese vibe, and the narrow, twisting alleyways are splendid to get lost in.

You’ll also find some quirky attractions, such as by the public toilet that looks like an old Japanese house. If you walk to the end towards the concrete structure and clap, a little doll comes out and does a dance.

Walking around town will probably take an hour, so it’s a perfect way to warm up the legs for some more hiking later in the day.

One of the things that is unique to Japan is the famous alcoholic drink, sake.

Made by fermenting polished rice, it is a staple in Japanese nightlife, and there are even thousands of sake bars found all over the country.

If you love this drink, any trip to Japan should include a visit to a sake brewery, and luckily if you’re travelling in Nakatsugawa, one of the country’s best ones are found right here!

Hazama Brewery has been making delicious, award-winning sake for over 390 years.

Housed in an absolutely gorgeous Japanese-style building, visitors are welcome to wander the property and can even join in a sake taste test.

The cost is only 500JPY, and it includes a small bottle of sake you can take home with you.

• Address: 4-1-51 Honmachi, Nakatsugawa-shi

Walking the Nakasendo Way

If there’s any one particular thing that Nakatsugawa is most famous for, it has to be the legendary Nakasendo Way walking trail.

Originally stretching from Kyoto all the way to Tokyo, the Nakasendo Way is an old mountain trail that was used for trade and transport for centuries.

These days it is known as one of Japan’s most famous hiking trails.

The entire length is 534km, but if you don’t have a couple of weeks up your sleeve for the whole thing, you can hike one of the most beautiful sections from right here in town.

The Nakasendo Trail from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku is 7.7km long, crossing over the Magome Pass, and is an absolute must-do on any list of things to do in Nakatsugawa.

Along this stretch, you’ll visit gorgeous post towns, waterfalls and stunning forests, and if you bring your camera along you’re sure to get some incredible photos.

You can start from either end, but we personally began in Tsumago-juku so that we could finish up in Magome during the golden hour.

Tsumago-juku is a lovely little town, and is well worth visiting in its own right.

For that reason we recommend getting there early and spending an hour or two just wandering around.

From there it’s an easy-to-follow path towards Magome, weaving through pine forests and up towards the Magome Pass.

Make sure you take a detour to the waterfalls that can be found along the way.

Once you climb down from the Pass it’s a quick trek into Magome. And if you’ve timed it right, you’ll be there just before sunset and will have the place almost to yourself as the tour groups have left.

This section of the trail will only take about 2-3 hours, depending on your fitness levels and how many times you stop for photos.

To get to Tsumago from Nakatsugawa, you can either take a taxi (it’s about 30 minutes by car), or take public transport.

First take the bus from Nakatsugawa Station to Magome.

From Magome ask for the bus to Nagiso Station, but get off at Tsumago. It will take about 30 minutes.

• Magome Station to Nagiso Station via Tsumago and Magome Pass: 9.15 am, 10.50 am, 1.25 pm, 3:00 pm and 5.15 pm.
• Nagiso Station to Magome via Tsumago and Magome Pass : 8.35 am, 10.05 am, 12.40 pm, 2:15 pm and 4.35 pm.
• You can find the official timetable here .

Price: Magome to Tsumago – Adult is 600 Yen one-way

Wander the Streets of Magome

Magome-juku is one of the most picturesque villages we’ve come across in all of Japan.

Cobblestone streets meander their way between ancient timber houses, with cafes, restaurants, museums and tea houses scattered along the way.

The design has been kept in line with how it would have looked during the Edo period, so it feels like stepping back in time.

This town is extremely busy during the day, with tour groups wandering around everywhere.

To avoid this we recommend being here early in the morning, or do what we did and walk into town along the Nakasendo Way from Tsumago and time your trip to arrive just before sunset.

From Nakatsugawa JR Station to Magome will take you about 25 minutes. Here are the times:

• Weekdays –
• Weekdays: 7.42 am, 9.10 am, 9.55 am, 10.45 am, 11.15 am, 12.15 pm, 1.15 pm, 2.15 pm, 3.15 pm, 4.15 pm, 5.15 pm, with the last bus at 6.30 pm.
• Weekends and public holidays : 8.10 am, 9.10 am, 9.55 am, 10.45 am, 11.15 am, 12.1 pm, 1.15 pm, 2.15 pm, 3.15 pm, 4.15 pm, with the last bus at 5.45 pm

From Magome to Nakatsugawa Station will take you about 25 minutes. Here are the times:

• Weekdays: 7.00 am, 8.15 am, 9.45 am, 10.30 am, 11.20 am, 11.50 am, 12.50 pm, 1.50 pm, 2.50 pm, 3.50 pm, 4.50 pm, 5.50 pm, with the last bus at 6.15 pm.
• Weekends and public holidays: 7.00 am, 8.40 am, 9.45 am, 10.30 am, 11.20 am, 11.50 am, 12.50 pm, 1.50 pm, 2.50 pm, 3.50 pm, 4.50 pm, with the last bus at 6.15 pm

Prices: 540 yen for an adult, and 270 yen for a child, one way.

Also part of the famous Nakasendo Trail, the stone pavement in Ochiai contains sections of the original pathway from centuries ago.

Also known as Ochiai-no-Ishidatami , this path is 840m long and winds its way through a picturesque forest.

There’s an old shrine at the top as well, and the top of the path leads perfectly into Magome-juku.

For one of the nicest views over the Central Alps, head up to Magome Observatory, at the top of the hill overlooking the town.

It’s completely free and is right off the Nakasendo Way, so definitely stop by during your walk.

READ MORE: Going elsewhere in the Land of the Rising Sun? Check out our list of the best things to do in Japan !

Now it’s time to head out into the magnificent nature that makes Nakatsugawa such a fantastic destination.

About an hour from the city is the Tsukechi Gorge, a haven of lush forest, crystal clear rivers and towering waterfalls.

If you like hiking, you’ll absolutely love it here, as there is a great trail that weaves its way along the river and through the gorge.

The best time to visit is in the autumn, when all the leaves change colour.

You can get there from Nakatsugawa Station by taking the Kitaena Kotsu bus.

One of our favourite places close to Nakatsugawa, Yumori Park is another outdoor-lover’s paradise.

This park is home to the powerful Ryujin Falls, a series of cascades that plummet into deep pools that are carved through a gorge.

When you arrive you’ll come across a number of cabins that can be rented out in the summer as accommodation.

Follow the river and cross a bridge, and you’ll start to make your way towards the Ryujin Falls.

Here you will be mesmerised as a series of small bridges and walkways cross between the cliffs, offering stunning views of the waterfalls.

Once you’ve snapped your pictures, you can venture further into Yumori Park for some more exploration.

There is a famous shrine, and during autumn they hold the Momiji Festival here.

If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can get to Yumori Park from the Nakatsugawa Station by jumping on the Chuo Train Line and getting off at Sakashita Station.

Here find the Yumori Line bus, and hop off at Yumorikoenguchi.

It’s only a 10-minute walk from here to get into the park

Naegi Castle Ruins

The Naegi Castle, also known as Misty Castle, is one of Nakatsugawa’s main attractions.

Set on a bluff overlooking the Kiso River and the Nakasendo Way, this imposing location just one hour walking from the city was specifically chosen so ancient warriors could monitor both water and land access from enemies.

It was built in 1532 by Tōyama Naokado, a leader of the Tōyama clan that ruled the region, but was eventually passed onto different armies over the next few centuries.

In 1871 it was torn down and abandoned, and what is left is a restoration of the ruins that were left behind.

While not as impressive as say, Osaka Castle , the Naegi Castle ruins boasts a fantastic view, with Mount Ena looming in the distance.

Entrance to the ruins is free, and you can get there by walking from town, taking a taxi, or taking a bus from Yodogawa Station bound for Naegi.

There is a bus from town that will take you there but it does drop you off at the bottom of the hill. You will have to walk 1.6km to reach Naegi Castle. 

• Nakatsugawa Station to Naegi Castle: 09:15 – 09:30, 11:15 – 11:30, 13:15 – 13:30, 14:15 – 14:30
• Naegi Castle Bus Stop to Nakatsugawa Station: 10:30 – 10:45, 11:30 – 11:45, 13:30 – 13:45, 15:30 – 15:45

Price: Adult – 500 yen one-way, 800 yen return, Child – 300 yen one-way, 500 yen return

Do let the bus driver know you would like a round trip when you first get on the bus or when you pay when you get off. 

If you want to have a real unique experience and have an awesome guide with you to explore Nakatsugawa, definitely check out a cycling tour by Kazunori Ukisu.

Kazu Ukky, as he is also known, is an absolutely fantastic tour guide, speaking impeccable English and having a deep knowledge and understanding of the region.

We were lucky enough to have him as our guide for two days as we travelled around Nakatsugawa, and we can honestly say our experience was made all the more richer by having him show us around.

While we had a car to get around, Kazu Ukky also does bicycle tours around the region.

He has all the equipment already, so if you have a free day and want to see the best of Nakatsugawa, get in touch with him.

Make sure you tell him that NOMADasaurus sent you.

• Website: https://nakasendo-walk.com/

Nakatsugawa City Travel Guide

Now that you know all of the amazing things to do in Nakatsugawa, we want to share some other amazing travel tips for the city.

Read on to find out where to stay, where to eat, how to get around and where to go next!

Where to Stay in Nakatsugawa City

Nakatsugawa has a nice range of different accommodation options, depending on your style and budget.

These are the two places that we stayed at during our time in Nakatsugawa.

Located 3km from Magome-juku right by the Yubunesawa River, the Hotel Hanasarasa is a sprawling complex with high-end facilities for all travellers.

The rooms are enormous, and you can choose either traditional Japanese style, or a room with Western beds.

Next door is the Kur Resort Yubunesawa leisure centre with a public onsen, swimming pool and gym.

Guests of the Hotel Hanasarasa can use these facilities for free. Please note that if you have tattoos you are unable to use the onsen here (old Japanese rule), but you can use the onsen inside the hotel.

The onsite restaurant is very good as well, providing huge multi-course meals for dinner and breakfast.

As an added bonus the hotel has a free shuttle bus going between the hotel and JR Nakatsugawa Station.

From the station the shuttle stop is just past the ticket gate, and departure times are: 09:55, 10:55, 11:55, 13:55, 14:55, 15:55, 16:55

Check at the hotel for times to go back to the station.

• Address: 280 Misaka, Nakatsugawa, Gifu 508-0007, Japan
• Phone: +81 573-69-5211

If you’re just looking for a good spot for one or two nights, the Plaza Hotel right next to the JR Nakatsugawa Station is the perfect spot.

The rooms are spacious, which is a nice change compared to most convenient Japanese hotels, and the staff are very friendly.

A simple breakfast is included, and they have a proper coffee machine.

Highly recommend it you come in late or have an early train and want to be within walking distance of the train station.

• Address: 3-5 Sakaemachi, Nakatsugawa, Gifu 508-0032, Japan
• Phone: +81 573-66-5858

There’s no shortage of places to eat in Nakatsugawa, and if you like Japanese food, you’re in for a treat.

There are many pubs (called ‘Izakaya) in the town which offer the normal Japanese cuisine and they serve dishes like tempura, noodle soups, fries and you even may see a steak.

Cold, draft beer is always on tap as well.

There are also some hot pot restaurants in the area if you like that style of meal.

We ate a nice vegetarian noodle meal at a Chinese Restaurant called “香港酒場”, which was down the road from the Plaza Hotel.

How to Get to Nakatsugawa City

Nakatsugawa is very well situated to get around Japan by rail, and if you’re travelling between the two popular destinations of Tokyo and Kyoto, it’s only a short detour to get to here.

The best way to get to Nakatsugawa is by train.

Nakatsugawa Station is right on the JR Chuo Main Line, less than an hour from Nagoya and only 2 hours from Gifu.

If you’re coming from Tokyo or Kyoto, take the Shinkansen to Nagoya Station, then change onto the JR line.

We highly recommend buying a JR Rail Pass if you’re travelling around Japan by train, as it will save you tonnes of money.

The closest airport to Nakatsugawa is the Chubu International Airport near Nagoya.

This airport has flights to most major cities in Japan, as well as a number of international destinations, including Hong Kong, Manila, Beijing, Detroit, Honolulu, Singapore and Frankfurt.

From the airport take the train to Kanayama Station, then change onto the JR Chuo Main Line to get to Nakatsugawa.

Getting Around Nakatsugawa City

Getting around Nakatsugawa City is easy thanks to its expansive bus network, although it isn’t the quickest mode of transport.

There are buses everywhere around town and most of the main attractions have a route going to them, although they may require a bit of walking once you get off at your stop.

If you’re like us and love walking, you can get around just about most places in Nakatsugawa, Magome and beyond by foot.

If you have your international drivers permit and love having the freedom of your own wheels, you can get yourself a rental car to explore Nakatsugawa.

The best way to get around is to rent a car and explore on your own! We recommend Rental Cars , which has the largest range of vehicles for the best value on the market.

Where to Go After Nakatsugawa City

Nakatsugawa is well situated to explore a plethora of other Japan destinations .

Once you’re finished exploring the city, check out these other great places to visit.

A short train ride away is Nagoya, an interesting city with dozens of attractions to keep all visitors interested.

• Check out our guide to the best things to do in Nagoya .

The city of Chino is a great place to visit if you want to spend some time in the mountains.

Kyoto is our favourite city in Japan, and if you love history, stunning shrines and towering bamboo groves, it’ll become yours as well!

• Check out our guide to the best things to do in Kyoto .

Travel Tips for Nakatsugawa City

You’re almost fully prepared for your trip to Nakatsugawa! But first we want to share with you some of our personal Nakatsugawa travel tips.

Some people try to do the Nakasendo Way as a day trip from Kyoto, without spending any time in the city.

Do yourself a favour and extend your trip by a couple of days. This way you’ll get to visit all of the amazing gorges, waterfalls and peaks that make this destination so amazing.

If you’re coming here you will most likely be planning on doing part of the Nakasendo Way, or want to wander through the gorges.

For that reason we recommend you bring solid walking shoes with you to stay safe.

The buses can break notes, but it’s much easier and quicker to pay with correct coins, or a SUICA card, which you can pick up at train stations of 7/11s around Nakatsugawa.

DISCLAIMER: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links, which means if you book accommodation, tours or buy a product, we will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions help us keep creating more free travel content to help people plan their holidays and adventures. We only recommend the best accommodations, tours and products that ourselves or our fantastic editorial team have personally experienced, and regularly review these. Thanks for your support, kind friend!

Alesha and Jarryd

Hi, We’re Alesha and Jarryd!

We’ve been traveling the world together since 2008, searching for the planet’s best destinations and adventures.

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Stressing the need to carry cash. All of the local buses, some of the taxies, and most trains heading outbound are cash only. You must buy a ticket or use a JR rail pass to go away from Nagoya, you can not use a Suika, Toica or monoca card.

I’m so happy to see Yumori Koen on your list. I live in Nakatsugawa and love this beautiful waterfall! You can use the pool and onsen at hanasara for 700円 on weekdays or 1000円 on weekends. I recomend Gohei Mochi (grilled rice) and Kabuki theater. We have a new libray called Machi Terrace. It’s made of pine and has lots of natural light and wifi.

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Nakatsugawa

Gateway to the nakasendo, things to do in nakatsugawa.

Magome Post Town

Magome to Tsumago

Kiso Valley's Magome-juku

The Sparrows of Tsumago

About nakatsugawa.

“The Kiso Road is all in the mountains.” “Spring is slow coming to my mountain home” - Toson Shimazaki wrote when describing the area around his home in the modern day Nakatsugawa in his book “Before dawn”. Located only 1 hour and 15 minutes from Nagoya on the JR Chuo line, Nakatsugawa city has wide diversity of attractions.

Historically, Nakatsugawa was a stop on the Nakasendo between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Today it remains an inland stopping point for those traveling between Tokyo and Nagoya or Kyoto.

Nakatsugawa still has deep ties to the Nakasendo history. At the Nakasendo History museum visitors can learn about the architecture of the buildings, the construction of the road and the stories of those who used it. One can visit the historical buildings of Nakatsugawa Juku, Ochiai Juku and Magome Juku as well as take the three-hour hike from Nakatsugawa station to Magome Juku which includes a section of the old stone road. Just a short 40 minute hike from Nakatsugawa station, takes you to Naegi Park where the remains of Naegi Castle sat over looking the Kiso River and the domain of the Naegi Shogun.

Besides historical places, Nakatsugawa provides pure natural beauty. From the 930m high Nenoue lake to the waterfalls of Tsukechi Gorge, Mt. Ena to Mt Kohide there are courses for the weekend walker to the extreme hiker. Within an hour from Nakatsugawa station, hikers can climb Fujimidai and see all of Central Japan and on a clear day, Mt. Fuji. There are camp grounds all over the city for those wanting to connect with the energy of the Japanese forest, mountains and rivers.

For the sweet tooth, Nakatsugawa is home to some of the best chestnut deserts in the world. Kawakamiya and Nitaro have become two of Japan’s top Japanese deserts (wagashi) specializing in chestnuts. At the Nigiwai Tourism office next to Nakatsugawa station, visitors can try various local products as well as soft-serve chestnut ice cream. For the creator, check out Iga Kuri no Sato to gather chestnuts and learn how to make your own chestnut deserts.

Art and culture abound in Nakatsugawa with stone masons, painters, potters, musicians and even locally produced kabuki. The Kabuki performances at Meijiza in Kashimo have become a must for visitors to the prefecture. Free to the public, seats fill quickly so get there early.

For the kids, there is the Children’s Science museum where kids can explore hands-on, Fureai Farm with horseback riding and sausage making and the Minerals Museum where you can learn not only about Japanese geology but try your hand at panning!

Nakatsugawa is a great stop for a day trip from Nagoya or a stop on a journey to the Hida region or for those hiking the Nakasendo. Nakatsugawa is where art, nature and history are one.

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Magome Tsumago Kiso Valley

• Published on : 24/12/2012
• by : Japan Experience
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Kiso Valley: Magome Tsumago 馬籠&妻籠

Magome-tsumago-nagiso walking trail, baggage forwarding service, kiso valley festivals, tourist offices.

• Accommodation

Getting Around

Nakasendo tours.

Magome and Tsumago are two restored and preserved Edo-period way stations on the Nakasendo highway in the Kiso Valley . The valley straddles two prefectures, with Magome in Gifu Prefecture and Tsumago in Nagano Prefecture.

Magome, Nakasendo

Counting from the Shogun's capital of Edo (modern-day Tokyo ), Tsumago was the forty-second and Magome the forty-third of the Nakasendo's sixty-nine post towns on the way to the Imperial capital of Kyoto .

Magome and Tsumago have put their history to use, and are known for their preserved feudal-era wooden and plaster buildings, inns and hot springs. In the early 1970s, both towns closed their main streets to cars and, restored several dozen old houses and, as much as possible, hid their power lines. A trail connecting the two towns makes for an easy hike between them.

The Nakasendo , like the more well-known Tokaido to the south (i.e., the route now largely followed by the Tokaido Shinkansen ) was a road connecting Kyoto with Edo (present-day Tokyo ).

The Nakasendo Highway was favored as the route to Edo by important daimyo (feudal lords) and their families, as the coastal Tokaido along the Pacific Coast, although about 25 km shorter, involved crossing many wide rivers and was therefore considered more dangerous.

Walking the historic Nakasendo highway between the two historic, former post towns takes between 2 and 2 1/2 hours, from Magome in the south to Tsumago further north. You can cut the walking time and avoid the steep hill from Magome to Magome Pass by catching a local bus.

Magome and Tsumago are best visited on weekdays, as weekends can get very crowded with tourists.

Magome main street, Nakasendo

Magome has the more touristy feel of the two places with more souvenir and food stalls on its steep main street and can get pretty busy on weekends and national holidays.

Magome, transliterated, means "horse basket" and Tsumago, "wife basket"; however, these are examples of ateji , i.e., the assigning of kanji for their pronunciation alone, not their meaning. Both names are corruptions stemming from the verb "tsumeru/tsumaru" (to stick/get stuck) and essentially expresss the mountain remoteness of their locations.

Nakasendo Highway, Magome, Gifu Prefecture

Historic wooden buildings, Magome, Gifu Prefecture

Magome's main street is lined with wood and plaster Edo-style buildings, most of which date from the 20th century as the originals fell into disrepair or were burnt down in the frequent fires that affected both towns. Look out for the stones which hold down some of the wooden roofs.

A wooden watch tower guards the entrance to Magome and there is a reproduction of a Tokugawa shogunate notice board ( kosatsuba ), which lays down the law for approaching visitors. Among the rules and regulations posted on kosatsuba by the Tokugawa authorities were prohibitions against Christianity and rewards for turning in practicing Christians.

The death penalty was enforced for cutting down any of the area's cypress ( hinoki ) trees, which were used for building the regime's castles and are still used for rebuilding Ise Jingu shrine every 20 years.

Kosatsuba, Magome, Gifu Prefecture

Magome's most famous son is the novelist Toson Shimazaki (1872-1943), whose works include Yoake Mae (Before The Dawn) and Ie (The Family), novels that chart the history of people in the Kiso region as the area's importance and wealth declined in the Meiji Period .

The Toson Kinenkan is a small museum in the center of Magome dedicated to Shimazaki and his life, whose grave can be visited just off the main street along with Eishoji Temple , which is mentioned in the author's novels. The Toson Kinenkan is within the former Honjin of Magome - the Honjin being the principal inn in a post-town used by major feudal lords and Shogunate officials.

Follow the signs in the graveyard of Eishoji Temple to find the author Shimazaki's grave. Eishoji also offers accommodation with an evening meal of shojin ryori - a vegetarian dinner with no animal protein. Guests can also experience Zen meditation at Eihoji. Bookings must be made at least three days in advance.

The Magome Wakihonjin Museum - the Wakihonjin was the secondary inn in a post town and used for accommodating minor feudal lords and rich merchants. A small museum on the history of the Nakasendo and Magome can be viewed inside.

Two other small museums are the Tsuchimaya Shiryokan and Shimizuya Shiryokan .

The main street in Magome has a number of souvenir shops selling baskets, wicker ware, straw farmer's hats, chopsticks, locally-produced sake and beer and other regional crafts. Small food stalls offer roasted chestnuts and other local delicacies.

Sign post to Tsumago on the Nakasendo

Tsumago , about 8km north of Magome, feels the more "authentic" of the two post towns ( juku ) as it suffered less from fire and began to be protected by the Japanese government in the mid-1970s after restoration efforts by the town's citizens in the 1960s, becoming a model for preservation projects in other areas of Japan.

The delightful main street of Tsumago, which is closed to traffic, is lined with a variety of wooden and plaster Edo-period style inns, houses, temples and shrines , with the surrounding, forested mountains as a spectacular backdrop.

Tsumago has a number of wooden craft shops, noodle restaurants, Japanese confectionery shops and historic inns or hatago . Walking along the main street visitors can see the different ranges of accommodation that were on offer for Edo period wayfarers, from plain wooden floors, to tatami mats to the grandiose Honjin and Waka-honjin. The uma-ya , or stables, have also been renovated and restored. Tsumago's main temple is Kotoku-ji, which is believed to date originally from 1500.

Tsumago-juku, Kiso Valley, Nagano Prefecture

Places of historic interest tied to Tsumago's history as a Nakasendo post town include the Waki-honjin - an inn used by the retainers of feudal lords, rebuilt in 1877 and containing a moss garden, a museum (Shiryokan) and a special toilet for imperial use. The building is built in hinoki cypress wood, darkened from the smoke of the irori hearth fire.

The Meiji Emperor visited Waki-honjin inn in 1880 and a western-style table was made for his visit and the tatami covered in carpets so the Emperor could enter in shoes. The adjacent museum has a number of interesting exhibits - tools, weapons, documents and dioramas explaining traditional lifestyles in the Kiso Valley. Some of the photographs show farmers from the Kiso area who moved to Manchuria during the 1930s - a landscape certainly very different from that of their mountain roots.

Across the street is the Tsumago Honjin , where the feudal lords ( daimyo ) spent the night. Both places are preserved as museums and can be visited separately or together by purchasing a combined ticket.

Just off the main street, Kotokuji Temple dates from 1500 and has an ancient cherry tree and "singing" floorboards.

Tsumago's festivals include a parade on November 23 with participants in Edo period dress, including monks and samurai warriors carrying palanquins, and others recreating a wedding procession. The Wachino Shrine Festival takes place July 23-24 and the Taimatsu Torch Festival on the fourth Saturday of August in the ruins of Tsumago Castle.

It is possible to walk the old Nakasendo on a walking trail (7.8 km) from Magome (420m above sea level) to Tsumago (600m) and on to Nagiso (3.2 km) or in the reverse direction.

The walk takes between about 2 and 2 1/2 hours, and passes through forest and farmland as well as on the Nakasendo road connecting Magome to Tsumago. The walk passes from Gifu to Nagano prefectures over the Magome Pass (Magome-toge) where a memorial stone is inscribed with a haiku poem by Shiki Masaoka (1867-1902):

These white clouds evoke memories of my long walk under fresh green leaves

On the whole, the trail is well sign posted (in English and Japanese) and passes a couple of pleasant waterfalls on the way: Otaki and Metaki (Male and Female) Falls . If you are coming from Tsumago, after these falls, continue on the road for a couple of hundred meters before the trail turns right into woodland.

The Otaki and Metaki Falls are featured in the book Miyamoto Musashi by Eiji Yoshikawa (1892-1962), which is a fictional account of the life of master swordsman Miyamoto Musashi . In the book, Miyamoto was traveling to Edo (Tokyo) with his sweetheart, Otsu, a woman who was betrothed to his friend. Their passion for each other grew on the journey and to cool off their ardor they stood under their respective waterfalls.

Just before the historic power station in Tsumago, coming from Magome is the Iida-kaido on your right - another Edo period highway leading to the town of Iida in Nagano Prefecture.

The trail from Tsumago to Nagiso JR Station takes another hour and passes through some pleasant farmland and small hamlets.

Look out for SL (Steam Locomotive) Park just before Nagiso , which is a charming spot with a view of the valley below and a rusting old steam train for company. There is a very small temple to Kannon nearby with three-colored plum trees in the tiny garden.

There is also a baggage forwarding service available at either Tourist Office in Magome or Tsumago. For 500 yen per piece your bags will be delivered between the tourist offices to arrive at 1pm if you drop them off between 8.30 am - 11.30 am.

You can also leave your bags to be picked up by the same service at Magomekan (馬籠館) and Magome Bekkan (別館) souvenir shops near the main crossroads where the bus arrives at the foot of the stone steps. (Luggage pick up here is 9am-11.30 am ONLY)

The service runs from around March 21 to November 30 and is suspended during the winter season.

Otaki and Metaki (Male and Female) Falls

Tsumago and Magome play host to a number of festivals through the year.

In Tsumago on November 23 there is a parade of local people dressed in traditional costume re-creating a procession from the Edo Period: samurai warriors, monks and palanquin bearers.

July 23/24 sees the Wachino Shrine festival in Tsumago when locals parade a portable shrine through the town.

The fourth Saturday of August is a fire festival held at the ruins of Tsumago Castle and performances of Kiso dancing.

Tsumago main street of restored buildings

Magome Tourist Information Center 4300-1 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi, Gifu-ken 508-0502 Tel : 0573 69 2336 Hours : 8.30 am-5 pm

Tsumago Tourist Office 215-2 Azuma, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5302 Tel : 0264 57 3123 Hours : 9 am-5 pm

Nagiso Tourist Office 3668 Yomikaki, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301 Tel : 0264 57 2001 Hours : 9 am-5 pm

Shinchaya minshuku, O-tsumago hamlet

Accommodation in Tsumago & Magome

It is possible to stay in a variety of ryokan or minshuku in both Magome or Tsumago.

Magome Chaya is a very reasonably priced, traditional inn, conveniently located very near the Magome Tourist Information Center, and recommended for a really authentic Magome experience. Tatami mat flooring and futon bedding, meals available for an extra charge, public hot bath on the premises, flat-screen TV in each room, washing machines available.

Tajimaya is an inn with over 100 years of history in central Magome, very near the Magome Tourist Information Center. All the rooms have Wi-Fi access.

Nedoko Guesthouse in Magome has a shared lounge, shared kitchen and free Wifi.

Guest House Motomiya is a two star guest house with air-conditioned rooms, free WiFi and shared bathrooms.

Guest House Gaku Magome is located within an old school and offers dormitoryrooms and free Wifi.

The Shinchaya minshuku is located in a tranquil valley, 2km from Magome. Shinchaya 5110 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi, Gifu 508-0502. Tel/Fax 057 369 2619.

In Tsumago, the historic Maruya Inn is right on the Nakasendo and has tatami-style rooms and excellent food. Maruya Inn, Tsumago, Minami Kiso-machi, Nagano, Tel: 0264 57 3117; Fax: 0264 57 2591.

Other ryokan are Hanaya Tel: 0264 57 3106, Tsutamuraya Tel: 0264 57 3235, Shinomura Tel: 0264 57 3158 and Koshinzuka Tel: 0264 57 3029. Next door to Hanaya is the noodle restaurant Kongoya Tel: 0264 57 3116.

Buses from Nakatsugawa to Magome

The bus journey from Nakatsugawa Station to Magome takes about 25 minutes.

On weekdays there are buses leaving Nakatsugawa at 7.42 am, 9.10 am, 9.40 am, 10.15 am, 11.15 am, 12.12 pm, 1.12 pm, 2.12 pm, 3.12 pm, 4.12 pm, 5.12 pm, with the last bus at 6.30 pm.

On weekends and public holidays there are buses from Nakatsugawa to Magome at 8.10 am, 9.10 am, 9.40 am, 10.15 am, 11.15 am, 12.12 pm, 1.12 pm, 2.12 pm, 3.12 pm, 4.12 pm, with the last bus at 5.45 pm.

Buses from Magome to Nakatsugawa

On weekdays there are buses leaving Magome for Nakatsugawa at 7.05 am, 8.10 am, 8.40 am, 9.40 am, 10.10 am, 10.50 am, 11.50 am, 12.45 pm, 1.45 pm, 2.45 pm, 3.40 pm, 4.40 pm, 5.40 pm, 6.10 with the last bus at 7.00 pm.

On weekends and public holidays there are buses from Nakatsugawa to Magome at 7.05 am, 8.40 am, 9.40 am, 10.10 am, 10.50 am, 11.50 am, 12.45 pm, 1.45 pm, 2.45 pm, 3.40 pm, 4.40 pm, with the last bus at 6.10 pm.

The adult fare is 540 yen with children 270 yen. Buses do not run from December 31st-January 2.

Buses from Nagiso to Magome

There are buses leaving from Nagiso Station to Magome via Tsumago and Magome Pass at 8.40 am, 10.05 am, 12.40 pm, 2:15 pm and 4.35 pm.

Buses from Magome back to Nagiso Station leave at 9.20 am, 10.50 am, 1.25 pm, 3:00 pm and 5.15 pm.

Fares are: Nagiso Station to Tsumago (300 yen); Nagiso Station to Magome (800 yen), Tsumago to Magome (600 yen) and Magome to Magome Pass (300 yen).

The journey from Nagiso to Magome by bus takes 35 minutes; from Tsumago to Magome it is around 30 minutes.

Access - Getting to Magome and Tsumago

The Chuo Liner Kani-go (可児号) 201 bus and the Chuo Liner Nagoya (なごや) bus depart Busta Shinjuku and take about 4 hours 40 minutes to reach Chuo-do-magome (中央道馬篭) bus stop. Chuo-do-magome bus stop is right on the old Nakasendo highway. The Magome Information Center is about a 25-minute (1.6 km) walk from here up Nakasendo, beyond the Misaki Junior High School.

From Shinjuku Station , take the JR "Azusa" or "Super Azusa" train bound for Matsumoto and get off at Shiojiri Station (about 2 hours 25 minutes). (Make sure that the Azusa/Super Azusa train you intend to ride stops at Shiojiri; some don't, requiring a change of trains at Kami-Suwa Station to a Chuo Line train, also bound for Matsumoto). From Shiojiri, take a JR "Shinano" train bound for Nagoya and get off at Nakatsugawa Station (about 1 hour). From Nakatsugawa Station take a Kitaena Kotsu bus to Magone (about 25 min.)

From Nagoya

From Nagoya Station take the Shinano Express on the JR Chuo Line to Nagano and get off at Nakatsugawa . From there take a local train ( futsu ) to Nagiso or an hourly bus to Magome.

There are Meitetsu Highway buses from Meitetsu Bus Center at Meitetsu Nagoya Station to Magome (90 mins).

By car take Route 19 to Nakatsugawa and Nagiso or by Chuo Expressway the journey is about 1 hour 15 mins (toll charge 1950 yen) when the traffic is flowing normally. The Chuo Expressway is also a quick way to visit Iida, Hirugami Onsen and Tenryukyo .

The journey back to Nagoya on the Chuo can be crowded on public holidays and weekends.

Magome main street, Gifu Prefecture

Magome & Tsumago Map

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Magome and Tsumago Guide: read a travel guide to Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley in Nagano Prefecture Japan.

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Hidden away in the ancient cypress forests of southeast Gifu is Tsukechi Gorge, an area famous for its brilliant turquoise waters and stunning waterfalls.

Tsukechi Gorge offers countless of outdoor activities that can be enjoyed by visitors of all ages. Walk along the 860-meter-long nature trail that passes by countless waterfalls and across bouncy suspension bridges, fish for your next meal, or just relax and enjoy the surrounding nature at one of the many campgrounds.

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• Nakatsugawa, the town of ji-kabuki

HOME > Japan’s Local Treasures > Nakatsugawa, the town of ji-kabuki

Experience Japan’s rural form of kabuki theater

Nakatsugawa City, Gifu Prefecture

Though performed by amateur actors, ji-kabuki, a rural version of kabuki theater, is an art form in its own right.   Kabuki, an Intangible Heritage of Humanity designated by UNESCO, has a history of over 400 years. First performed in the early 17th century, the traditional art form boomed in cities during the Edo period (1603-1867), and troupes of professional actors were often invited to rural areas of Japan to perform on makeshift stages at shrines.   Inspired by these performances, ji-kabuki, a form of amateur theater, emerged in the countryside, with farmers and townspeople emulating professional actors, but with their own, more down-to-earth styles.   Nakatsugawa in eastern Gifu is home to six ji-kabuki preservation organizations that stage performances every year. It also houses three playhouses, founded around 120 years ago, and the 19th-century Kashimo Meijiza, one of few extant traditional theaters featuring a revolving stage and runway.   If your trip does not coincide with a ji-kabuki performance, head to Kashimo Meijiza, a wooden village theater built in 1874. Surrounded by rice fields, it is a beautiful place to learn about traditional Japanese architecture and both professional and ji-kabuki performances.

How to get there

From Nagoya Station, take a Limited Express Shinano train for about 50 minutes to Nakatsugawa Station. From there, take a bus to the Manga bus stop (about 1 hour). Kashimo Meijiza is about 10 minutes from Manga on foot. 

4793-2, Kashimo, Nakatsugawa-shi, Gifu-ken

Nakatsugawa city Tourist Information Website

More Information

Tokai Region | JNTO Official Website

Gifu Prefecture | JNTO Official Website

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