older trek mountain bikes

Vintage Trek Catalogs

Table of Contents

Here you can find all the Trek catalogs from 1976 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can find them further in the article.

Trek Catalogs

• Trek Catalog 1976
• Trek Catalog 1977
• Trek Catalog 1978
• Trek Catalog 1979
• Trek Catalog 1980
• Trek Catalog 1981
• Trek Catalog 1982
• Trek Catalog 1983-1
• Trek Catalog 1983-2
• Trek Catalog 1984
• Trek Catalog 1985All-Terrain
• Trek Catalog 1985Trek2000
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekRacing
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekSport
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekTouring
• Trek Catalog 1986
• Trek Catalog 1987
• Trek Catalog 1988
• Trek Catalog 1989
• Trek Catalog 1990
• Trek Catalog 1991
• Trek Catalog 1992
• Trek Catalog 1993
• Trek Catalog 1994
• Trek Catalog 1995
• Trek Catalog 1996
• Trek Catalog 1997
• Trek Catalog 1998
• Trek Catalog 1999

History and Iconic Models

Trek started out in 1975 by providing only frames. In 1976 they would supply entire bicycles.

For many people Trek is most famous for sponsoring Lance Armstrong’s U.S. Postal team during the late 90’s up to his retirement.

But Trek already pioneered the use of carbon fiber in 1989 with the Trek 5000.

It would result in the short-lived but daring design of the Y-Foil, introduced in 1998. One of the few bikes that is designated with something more than just a number.

They were also early adopters of the mountain bike craze, with the Trek 850 launched in 1983.

Their early foray in using carbon fiber would be later used with the introduction of the iconic Y33 and Y22 models. Mountain bikes with a monocoque carbon fiber frame. Although it used the suspension technique URT ( unified rear triangle ) which would turn out to be rubbish, the original design was considered iconic.

If you’re interested in learning more about vintage Trek bicycles, please visit vintage-trek.com .

Trek Models

Mountain bike, you might also like.

Vintage GT Catalogs

Here you can find a selection of GT catalogs from 1990 up to 1998. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year,

Vintage Kona Catalogs

Here you can find all the Kona catalogs from 1989 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can

Vintage Giant Catalogs

Unfortunately I was only able to find a couple of Giant catalogs. Although it’s a huge bicycle brand, finding the Giant catalogs proved to be

Vintage Cannondale Catalogs

Here you can find all the Cannondale catalogs from 1983 up to 1999.  If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you

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Quick Links

Trek 950: Restoring Mountain Bikes from the 1990s

Some links may include affiliate opportunities.

Mountain bikes from the 1990s were amazing. For many of us, these were our first real bikes so there’s a sense of nostalgia that comes with these wonderful machines.

I love this bike and it’s always a work in progress. 2021 updates are over here .

Steel is real. The fact that these bikes are made of steel means they last and there are still tons of these bikes around that still have much life in them.

My favorite of all 1990s mountain bikes is the Trek 900 series. My dad owned this bike when I was a kid and I would take it out at any opportunity. The bike was amazing and still sits in my memory as something spectacular.

Build Kit for this 1990 Trek 950

Drivetrain:.

• Truvativ Power spline Bottom Bracket
• SRAM SX Power Spline Crankset
• Sram 9 Speed Chain
• Microshift 9 Speed Thumb Shifter (Initially I did run a 3x, but then I switch to a 1x and removed the front shifter)
• Cassette. I was able to modify a 9 speed cassette down to 8 speed and this fit on the original 7 speed hub. Doing this allowed me to use the 9 speed shifter. If you stick with the 7 speed, you’ll want to adjust accordingly.
• Tektro Cantilever Brakes
• Short Pull Brake Levers
• Cables and housing

Other Parts I’ve Added

• Mone Meal Replacement Bar
• Brooks B67 Saddle

Finding a Bike for Restoration

If you keep your eyes on Craigslist or Ebay, there are many opportunities to find a bike for restoration. I found this bike on Craigslist.

It’s a 1990 Trek 950. Size 21 inches.

Original owner had it listed. She’d ridden it for many years, then it was left in her garage. Still had original tires on it!!

The one downside for me with this bike is the shock. I didn’t feel like rebuilding one or adding a new one. I wanted to go back to fully rigid, however, where in the world would I match the purple.

This bike is in decent shape, but I had plans to powder coat black and start over.

Step 1: Removing Everything From Your Bike

My first step was to remove everything.

Step 2: Powder Coat the Frame and Buy a Fork

I was able to find a powder coating shop near by that did the project for $125. What a deal. Results were impressive.

Step 3: Clean Up Bike Components

A lot of dirt on these suckers after almost 30 years of riding. I replaced the chain rings just to give it a nicer look. Also, polished up the crank.

Step 4: Replace Components that Need Replacing

The most fun part of bike projects is figuring out which pieces require which size components. What’s going to fit, what can you get. How do you want this project to turn out?

On of the big changes I made was converting from the threaded fork / headset to threadless. This allowed for new fork, handlebars, stem.

I also moved over to microshift friction shifters.

Any projects you have in mind?

Let me know, would love to hear about it.

Welcome to the unofficial Vintage-Trek* bicycle web site. This is a noncommercial, just-for-fun, hobbyist site.

The primary purpose of this site is to gather and disseminate information about early lugged, steel-framed road bikes made by the Trek Bicycle Corporation , Waterloo, Wisconsin. In response to popular demand, the site has expanded to include not-so-vintage Trek bikes of all kinds as new as 2012 .

Mountain bikers , and carbon and aluminum aficionados do not despair - the brochure extracts on the site contain a list of specs for all of the bikes Trek produced in that year. Additionally, the table of Trek models by year includes all Trek bikes through 2005.

Other Resources - Specs for all Treks 93 and newer are on the BikePedia.com site. Additionally, specifications and pictures for 2003 and newer Treks are available on the Trekbikes.com web site archives .)

Before this site began, in various bicycle-related Internet discussion forums there were posted questions like:

• How old is my Trek?
• How was it equipped when new?
• What was the original selling price?
• Where was it in the price/quality hierarchy?

The query usually went unanswered. This site is an attempt to provide the information that answers questions such as these.

What Is on This Page?

Introduction | On This Site | Is it a Trek? Determining Year and Model | Collectability | Contributors Comments Appreciated | Contact | About this Site | My Treks

What Is on This Site?

On this site are Trek brochures or catalogs covering the period 1976 to 2012. There also are four early price lists from bike shops in Santa Barbara, CA. The price list and values page also has a list of bike prices when new. This information was provided mostly by visitors to this site. This page also includes suggestions for estimating the current value of a Vintage Trek.

There is a timeline for steel Trek road bikes that often can be used to identify or date a frame. A table of Trek models by year and color includes virtually all Trek bikes from 1976 through 2005.

Serial number information can be found on the serial number page .

Methods of determining the date of manufacture of bicycle components (and often the bikes they are on) are described here .

NOTICE : We are trying to sort out NITTO manufacturer's date codes. See here for details .

Suggestions for buying or selling a vintage Trek are given on the site as well as tips for refurbishing or upgrading your bike. Included is a section on general specifications for vintage Treks.

There also are catalogs from Gary Fisher (1988-2010); Klein (1989-2008), and LeMond (1996-2008) on the site.

Is It a Trek?

It usually is easy to identify a bike frame as a Trek, even if it has been repainted, as virtually all of them have "TREK" conveniently stamped or cast into one or more places on the frame. Possible locations are the top of the seat stays, the seat lug, the bottom bracket, and the top of the fork crown. An exception is the TX900 which has no cast-in "TREK".

Determining the Year and Model of Your Steel Trek

One often has to be a bit of a detective to sort this out.

• If you know the model number, compare the colors of your bike against the Models/Years/Color listing. This works only for Treks from about 1982 onward. The earlier bikes models were available in numerous colors.
• Check the serial number of the frame. If a 7 character alphanumeric, see the results of the Serial Number Decoding Project . If it is 6 digit numeric, in the range 000000 to 270975, go to the serial number page to get the year and model number. If it is 6 digit numeric higher than 270975, the year may be able to be determined from the Table II on the serial number page. Other serial number formats are described on the serial number page .
• Check the description of graphics by year in the timeline to match up your bike. Go to the brochures , the BikePedia.com web site (for 1993 and newer), the Trekbikes.com web site archives (for 2003 and newer) and perhaps the gallery for more detail. For most years, (generally 1981 and newer) color is telling. For many models, two or more colors were available, but only one color is pictured. The other is listed on the model description page or in the separate specifications table. Complicating bike identification by color, Trek occasionally added a bike color after the brochure for that year was made. As they are identified, these additional colors are included in the Models/Year/Colors page. If your frame has been repainted, you may be able to find the original paint inside the bottom bracket shell, seat tube, or head tube. Occasionally, a frame was returned to Trek for repainting. Trek would use the then current colors and graphics, not the original ones. This means that color and graphics can (rarely) be misleading as to year.
• If your bike has a model name or model number, look it up on the Models/Year/Colors table to find the years your bike was sold.
• Compare the components on the bike with those described in the brochures, if you think they may be original. (BTW - This is tedious.) Cranks and brakes (and often seatposts), are more likely to be original than other components. (Note: Trek occasionally changed the components from what were described in the brochures. Improved parts became available during the year or specified parts became unavailable. In the case of unavailable parts, Trek invariably substituted better parts.)
• Date the components on the bike (if you think they are original), guided by the component dates page. Dated components most likely to be original are brakes, handlebars, cranks and seatposts.
• For some years, the model number (in the form xxx) appears on the bike. Easy - even I often get this right.
• If the serial number is a 7 character alphanumeric, see the results of the Serial Number Decoding Project . If the number is a 6 digit numeral, check to see if your serial number is listed on one of the serial number years .
• Racing? Touring? Sport? Measure the chainstay length, from the center of the crank to the center of the rear dropout. A length of 43.5, 44, 44.5, up to 47 cm (the Model 720 and 85 620) typically is a touring model, racing models are shorter at 41 to 41.5 cm or so. Sport versions are somewhere in between, at 43 cm or so.
• Compare the components on the bike (and frame colors on 81 and newer) with those described in the brochures . or in the descriptions on the BikePedia.com (93 and newer) or the Trekbikes.com web site archives (for 2003 and newer) web sites.
• For many models, two colors were available, but only one color is pictured. The other is listed on the model description page or in the separate specifications table.
• Eyelets on dropouts? (for fenders or racks) - typically none on racing models (except for the first 4 or so years), yes on touring models, yes on most sport models.
• Rear derailleur cable routed above or below bottom bracket? See 1982 Timeline page entry.
• Cantilever Brakes? = Touring model. Centerpull Brakes = Touring (early 1982 720/728). Sidepull brakes? Very common. These only rule out models with cantilever and centerpull brakes.
• Fastback seatstays with no TREK stamped on seat lug =TX900. (See Chas. Porter's bike in the gallery .) Also, the TX900 has three holes, of increasing size, in the top of the seat lugs and head lugs.
• A seatpost diameter of 27.4mm indicates a Model 170. The Model TX300 is 26.8mm. All other vintage Treks are 27.2mm.
• See Is it Columbus Tubing?

Collectability of Steel Treks

People often ask about the collectability of old Treks. Here are some general comments from my own observations and from the collected experience of others.

• Lots of steel Trek bikes were made; most are not rare. However, virtually all steel Treks are quality riders and are valued as such. Vintage Treks with upgraded components are more valuable as riders, but this can decrease the value as a collector's item.
• Top level Treks are considerably more collectable than lower level bikes. However, keep in mind that an entry-level Trek is at a mid-level price/value in comparison to the offerings of most other manufacturers.
• Earlier Treks are more valuable as they generally are more rare. Now that the serial numbers are generally understood, one can verify the age of the frame.
• Condition is all important to collectability. A bike with original paint is more desirable (to a collector) than a repainted bike. Additionally, bikes with components as provided by the factory are more desirable to the collector. In the case of bikes originally bought as bare frames, the components should be period correct.
• The early bikes were built with traditional frame building methods and therefore are more desirable to the collector (in my view). This change from traditional methods to more automated methods was fairly gradual from 1976 to 1980, but then increased. Cast one-piece head tube/head lug assemblies appeared on some bikes in 1980 or 81. This began with lower level bikes but extended to mid level bikes later. (A small picture of this headtube/lug device is on page 2 of the 89 catalog .) Cast seat lugs, with sockets for the stays, appeared in about 1984. Artisan frame builders were generally replaced with frame technicians in the early 80s as more automated techniques were developed and employed. These changes did not necessarily reduce the quality of the frames, but did move Trek farther from traditional methods. This did achieve the goal of reducing production costs and helped keep Trek cost competitive (and solvent) in a highly competitive environment.
• Vintage Trek bikes do not (yet) have the cachet of some English or European bikes, which generally have a much longer history. However, during the Vintage-Trek period, the quality of the frame materials, construction methods, and finish are certainly equal or superior to the vast majority of English and European top-level production bikes, and exceed many custom bikes as well.
• The early Trek bikes, up to about 1983, have fender clearance. (The touring bikes beyond 83 all have fender clearance.) If people want a proper wide-tired touring bike, winter bike, or rain bike, all with fender clearance, they must typically buy a modern cyclocross bike or a custom bike. Most other modern road bikes don’t have the clearance (and don't have lugs). This helps keep vintage Treks popular as riders.
• The early bikes, 1976 to about 82, were built using sliver solder, a more costly and desirable method. Many later models were built, at least partially, with sliver as well.
• Ishiwata 022 steel frames were less expensive than Reynolds- or Columbus-tubed frames, but the steel quality was equal to the others. They are often described as “best value”.

Some vintage frame or bike models have special significance; these include the TX900, 720/728, 170, and 520 .

The TX900 was the early top-of-the-line frameset, dating from 1976 to mid 1978. The Columbus tubing, racing geometry, and fastback seat stays were characteristic of this model (not to be confused with the later bikes from the mid-80s having cast socketed seat lugs in fastback form). Another special feature is the three holes, of increasing size, in the top of the seat lugs and head lugs. The unique and distinctive design, and relative rarity, adds to the value of these frames.

The 720/728 touring bikes , dating from 82-85 were (and still are) highly-rated bikes for serious touring. The long chainstays, 47cm, provide heel clearance for the rear panniers, and contribute to a comfortable ride. These frames and bikes are still highly sought after by knowledgeable tourists. A similar steel lugged frame is not currently available except from a custom framemaker. In my opinion, these framesets and bikes will only increase in value over time. The steel racing Treks will never again be used by top racers for racing. However, the 720 will be used (and coveted) by experienced tourists well into the future. Trek made a total of 7929 720 and 728 bikes and frames (number calculated by Mitch Hawker).

(Note: Trek ran out of model numbers; don't confuse these touring 720s with the 1990-1999 Model 720 MultiTrack bikes.)

The Model 170 , arguably Trek’s best steel racing frame, was available during the period 1983 to 1985. They were made with Reynolds 753 tubing. Among their users was the 7-11 Team. Tim Isaac designed the 170. Expert framebuilders John Thompson, Rick Faultersack, and Kelly Gamble built them.

The 520 touring bike first appeared in 1983 and probably has made more trans-America crossings than any other bike model. It still is offered by Trek in steel (although not lugged), which has helped maintain significant model recognition among bicyclists. This longevity and popularity has raised the value of this bike over similarly-priced vintage Treks of the period.

Two parameters are specially important to the 520 over the years: chainstay length (as pointed out by Robert Cooke) and the type of brakes used. Long chainstays are used on touring bikes to provide a more stable, cushioned ride and to provide more room for panniers (saddle bags). Serious touring bikes in the 80s and 90s were equipped with cantilever brakes (the classic center-pull cantilevers). These were considered powerful enough to stop a heavily loaded bike going downhill. The sidepull brakes of the time were considered less capable for such extreme duty. It wasn't until Shimano developed their "V-brake" (known generically as the side-pull cantilever or the direct pull brake) that a viable alternative to the traditional cantilever was available. This new brake was used on the 520 after 1999. The table below shows these two 520 characteristics through time. These data should be of use to people who plan to buy a vintage 520.

Table I - Brake Type and Chainstay Length for Trek Model 520 from 1983 through 2012

The 620 touring bike was offered in 1983, 84, and 85. It was a level above the 520, but because it was short lived and no longer in production, it is not as familiar to potential purchasers. On the used market, this often means less money for an even better bike. Only the 85 model had the extra-long 47cm chainstays, matching those of the 720.

Some Trek models shared the same frame. For example, if you want a 1983 frame with 620 geometry and materials, you can look for a 1983 600, 630, or 640, all of which have the same characteristics as the 620. The geometry and frame materials are normally given in the brochure for that year.

Contributors

Many thanks to the people who have contributed significant information to the site. They are: Tom Adams, , Mark Agree, Don Allgire, Peter Berger, Wayne Bingham, Alan Burnett, Larry Black, Dave Breitlow, Ed Brown, Colin Campbell, Dan Carlsson, Mark Carter, Andrew Chadwick, Chris Clement, Bill Clements, Chris Cleveland, John Colt, Nels Cone, Robert Cooke, Mark Crabtree, Julia DeGrace, Kris Echert, Taryn Echert, Anita Edens, Dave Evans, David Feldman, Ivan Feldman, Erik Frey, Tim Fricker, Cory Fry, Rich Ferguson, Marsha Gill, Don Gillies, Dickey Greer, John Hallows, Lyle Hanson, D. Hansen, Keith Hatfull, Mitch Hawker, Sean Hickey, George Hoechst, Bill Howard, Jim Jack, Jennings Kilgore, Michael Johnson, John Keller, Steve Kurt, Jeff Kwapil, JP Lacy, Kevin Maher, Dave Mann, Steve Mann, Tom Marshall (T-mar), Tom Meara, Michael McCullough, Marty Meison, Lou Miranda, Dale Mizer, Greg Mooncalf, Mike Marro, Kirt Murray, George Nenni, Larry Osborn, Dennis Pieper, Andy Poplawski, Chas. Porter, Tim Rangitsch, Jack Romaine, Michael A. Roberts, Brandon Rouse, Roger Sacilotto, John Satory, Paul Schleck, Travis Sherwood, Dan Shindelar, Bruce Squires, Dave Staublin, Jay St. John, Scott Stulken, Tom Sustarich, Mike Swantak, David Temple, Elisabeth Thomas-Matej, Kevin Tita, Craig Tornga, Kevin Truelove, Mark Wade, Martin Walsh, Leighton Walter, Ben Weiner, Luker White, and Brad Ziegler.

This site would not have been possible without their help and support. I know there will be more to thank in the future.

The list above does not include the many hundreds of other people who have provided a serial number or other smaller contribution to the site. Our hearfelt thanks to these folks as well.

Comments and Information Appreciated

Please send your comments, corrections, and materials! If you have additional information about steel Treks; old brochures, price sheets, or other information, please pass them along. Easiest digital form is probably as .gif files (for graphics) or .jpg files (for photographs) scanned at 150 dpi or more. If you send printed information, it will be scanned and returned to you.

Currently, I am not adding more photos to the Gallery. Now that we have all (or virtually all) of the brochures/catalogs for each year, the Gallery is not as important as it was earlier. My current task is to sort out the many other forms of serial numbers used on Trek bikes throughout the years.

How to Contact Me

Skip Echert - E-mail: [email protected]

About This Site

At a bicycle shop in Santa Barbara, in about 1978, I picked up a Trek brochure which described the "pre owned" frame/bike that I had just purchased. In 2001, I found that brochure in my old papers and was surprised to find two other Trek brochures and four price lists that I had salted away as well. These materials were the genesis of this site, which went online in 2001. The amount of material on the site has grown steadily over time, much of it from the information and documents generously provided by site visitors.

As the site expanded, and visitors could find information to answer their questions, the nature of the questions has evolved. For example, I now get few questions about the early serial numbers (as they now are well documented) but more about the many later ones used by Trek.

The site currently gets 12,000 to 20,000 unique visitors per month. We have received and replied to over 2400 emails. Many of the questions asked and then researched have been the basis for information added to the site.

I have a Trek TX900, originally sold new (frame only) in 1977 to a very accomplished teenager who raced it in and around Santa Barbara, CA. He had equipped it mostly with Campagnolo Nuovo Record parts from 1973 and earlier, a Zeus front hub, a Super Olimpic rear hub, and Cinelli bars and stem. He, or the previous owner, had replaced many of the steel bolts in the components with titanium or aluminum after-market items. I purchased it from him in 1978 for the sum of $375. He was 16 when he sold it, after discovering girls and cars.

A few years ago, I replaced the sew-up rims with clinchers, carefully spread the rear triangle to 126mm and replaced the (then) splitting rear hub with a 6 speed Campagnolo model. At the urging of Don Altman, a bike-savvy friend, I replaced the the Teledyne titanium crank axle (by the way - beautifully crafted) with a stock Campagnolo model. Don knew that many of these aftermarket axles had failed - with painful consequences for the rider. (I was probably perfectly safe, as my horsepower output could never be described as "gear busting"). After making this substitution, I realized the axle had been the cause of wobble in the chainrings. With these changes, the bike now is even a greater joy to ride. Perhaps one day the TX900 will have matching rims, tires, hubs, and brake pads. (Or would that just indicate a lack of imagination on my part?)

In 2002, I bought a 1981 Model 613, in almost new condition, at Recycled Cycles in Seattle. I decided this would be my (almost) modern bike. It is now a 24-speed index shifter, assembled from used and new parts. See this gallery page for details.

In June of 09, John Keller, a major contributor to the site, gave me a 1980 Model 710 frame in excellent condition. Wow! The results of the buildup can be seen on a page in the gallery .

I received the fabulous gift of a 1985 Model 720 frameset in April of 2014. It was from numerous members of the BikeForums.net Classic and Vintage forum. It was offered as a thank you for the Vintage-Trek website. What generous people! Earlier, in corresponding with Dave Vegafria about his 720s, I casually mentioned my long-term hope of getting a 720 one day. Without mentioning anything to me, Dave thought the time could be sooner. He posed the question on the forum and got dozens of offers of support. Since it arrived, I have gathered almost all of the needed components. When finished, it will be in the gallery.

My son has a 1993 Model 8700 Trek carbon-tubed mountain bike. He bought it at a local pawn shop for $100 in 2004. It had been updated with an early suspension fork.

Introduction | On This Site | Identify as a Trek | Determining Year and Model | Collectability Contributors | Comments Appreciated | Contact | About this Site | My Treks

Brochures | Price Lists and Values | Trek History | Trek Timeline | Serial Numbers Component Dates | Gallery | Contact | Buy/Sell Suggestions Refurbish/Upgrade | Bike Resources | Home

*Trek is a trademark of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, WI

All copyrights in the TREK brochures, pricelists, owner's manuals and photographs displayed on this website are the sole property of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, Wisconsin.

All materials in this site not copyrighted by others are Copyright © 2001-2015 Skip Echert Web Associates , All rights reserved.

Trek Bike Serial Number Lookup

Editorial credit: overkit / Shutterstock.com

When investing in a quality bike like Trek, you must register your bike on their website, and if you are buying a used model, you can use the same resource for due diligence to make sure the bike you buy is legit – but where do you find the Trek serial number?

To find the serial number on your Trek bike, you need to turn it upside down and let it rest on the handlebars. The bike’s serial number is marked on the underside of the frame, close to the bottom bracket. You can check the serial number using this link to the Trek website.

Trek USA offers an online service where you can look up your Trek Bike serial number or register a new one so that in the event you want to sell yours, buy another one, or yours is stolen, the bike’s relevant information is a click away- so let’s discover more on how to lookup a Trek Bike serial number.

What Information Is Contained In A Trek Bike Serial Number?

In the old days, serial numbers were used mostly to reveal basic information about a product – mostly how many had been made of a model if there was only one.

As more models were made and released, manufacturers began to use serial numbers to provide information on the model type, year of manufacture, the material used, etc. With bike manufacturers like Trek, it became useful to have serial numbers that provided more details about the bike for themselves and the customers.

Trek serial numbers contain information that includes the year of manufacture, the plant manufacturing code, which determines at which facility the bike was made, the day of the year that the bike was made and what number the bike was in the production run on that day.

What The Trek Bike Serial Numbers Mean?

From the early 90s until current, Trek has used the prefix WTU on their serial numbers, with a three-digit number following that and then a single capital letter. Then five digits for the serial number and a final letter to end.

Let’s look at an example and decode what these numbers mean.

For a Trek serial number WTU295D85467D – the serial number would be broken down as follows:

• After WTU, 295 is the sequential date number from the beginning of the year-so 295 means this frame was made on the 295 th day of the year.
• The 85467 would be the bike’s serial number.
• The letter D at the end stands for the year 2009, while the letter D after the first three numbers would be the plant where the bike was made.

Based on this configuration and data recovered from a Trek recall notice, we can deduce that the Trek serial numbers use a letter at the end to denote the year of manufacture. With the serial number above, the letter D is the year 2009, and the list below would then represent the years prior and post.

So the very first piece of information on your Trek bike you can identify is the year of it’s manufacture, and you can use this table to determine what year your Trek bike was made.

From the information available, the numbers that follow the WTU and the day number of manufacture, the next letter or group of letters are thought to indicate the manufacturing plant where the bike was made.

Trek themselves aren’t very forthcoming about their serial numbers, only what has been described above. They don’t specify whether the serial number code includes the frame size or material type information.

Vintage Trek Bike Serial Number Lookup

Trek has been in business for a long time, and many still have vintage Trek bikes dating back to the 1970s. To establish a database of serial numbers and to decode them, a survey of more than 200 Trek owners revealed how Trek serial numbers were utilised on bikes from around 1976 to before the late 1980s.

Here, the serial number configuration was LNLNLNN, where L= Letter and N=Number, so let’s look at the serial numbers and letters and what they would mean on a vintage Trek bike.

The first letter is the frame model, and the first number is the frame size. So if the serial number begins with A1, the A would represent the Frame model 210, and the one would define a 19.75″ frame.

The letter after that represents the month the frame was serialized, so A would mean January, B would be February, etc.

The second number represents the last digit of the year of serializing and is not a reference to the year model. The final three places of the serial number have letters from A through Z and numbers from 01-99.

The letters are thought to relate to the run’s designation, and the last two letters could relate to the frame number in that run. As an example, if the serial number on your Trek bike were D5F8J57, then that would tell you the following :

• D- Frame model 510
• 5 –  25,5″ frame size
• F – The month of serialization would be June
• 8 –  1978 is the year of serialization
• J – Designating the 10 th run
• 57 – the 57 th frame of the run

You can see the complete serial number survey with all the various models and exceptions here , so you can get some info using this reference to look up your vintage Trek bike serial number.

It seems odd that such a prolific manufacturer of arguably the world’s best bicycles offers no concrete information on the structure of its serial numbers, and while the registration and recovery service is a plus, submitting a Trek serial number on their website will give you a good idea of your bike and it’s history.

Since not every bike owner is interested in decoding their Trek serial numbers and only concerned with registering their bike in case it gets stolen or needs basic information, this could be why Trek hasn’t released detailed information on their serial numbers yet.

• https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/productRegistration/
• https://www.vintage-trek.com/SerialNumbers_draft.htm
• https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/1209331-trek-serial-number-decoding.html

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Trek 6000 Bike 1998 or Older

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Light weight. Quality components from factory.

None that I know of.

Had this bike over 20 years and still enjoy riding it. I changed the seat but that is the only non-stock part on the bike. It handles dirt easily with stock tires and rocky trails with tree roots without a problem (standing up riding). It also handles smooth pavement well; I didn't notice a huge effort difference compared to my 1989 Trek high end road bike but maybe that was because people exaggerated the expected difference. I finally wore out the tires and chain/cassette and had them replaced during a recent tune-up. I got a "new" bike (with an iPhone holder- Stava app) good for another 20 years for about $200. I still get complements on the bike's looks!

None that I've found. Going down steep (relatively smooth) dirt trails at over 30 MPH is as hard as I've pushed it and that was my limit, not the bike's.

This bike has gone the distance with me. I've had it 18 years and thought I wanted to buy a new bike. I cleaned it up, bought some new tubes and I wouldn't think of getting a new one. No point. All I need is a new saddle and she will easily last another 18. I'll be almost 70 by then. Good purchase all around.

Sometimes rough on the pavement with the knobbies, but it is still worth the rough to have them when you need them.

Love my Trek 6000. I bought her for the aluminum frame. I wanted a flex that was better than my old road bikes. My legs were too strong for the older frames and I could put a twist on a road bike climbing a hill. This was a great transition to get away from racing and it has gone the distance and still is rolling.

Great reliabily -still looks BAD.Will stay with most any of the new bikes.Easy shifting.Running with less nobby tires and that works great on the street on light off road-a little challenging off road.Overall a GREAT BIKE.Looked at buying a UTOPIA just today but "old reliable" might just keep me from buying it.

Cable tends to stretch.

One of the best bikes Trek ever came up with.

Similar Products Used:

Trek 1500 racing bike

Great overall lightweight MB. Purchased it in I think 1994 and have enjoyed it every time I have jumped on. Have kept it tuned and greased and I think it may out live me. I would buy the same bike again.

I bit ridged however saddle it excellent.

Still looks and rides great after 17 years.

15 years old and only tires, seat, and brakes have been replaced.

heavy rider for city streets

great bike after 15+ years of riding back trails, city streets, country roads

Amazing Quality. Have had this bike since I was 13 years old and I just replaced the rear gear shift last year (2010).

If there is one, I haven't found it.

Probably the best bike for the money at the time of purchase. I am hesitant to even buy another bike considering that I just recently had to replace a shifter.

Great bike, nice components and fairly light. Handles well and can take so abuse, very nice suspention, brakes and DEORE shifters, it goes pretty fast.

Tyres are very thin, not very grippy, and continually punture, saddle offers very little compfort.

A great bike for anyone looking for just that little bit more than the average mountain bike. Apart from the two minor setbacks I have mentioned that can be rectified in a jiffy, its a definate hit!

The frame has not broken yet.

The componet quality is suspect. I am on my third chain in three years. I have had eight broken spokes. and now the high gear skips.

I bought this bike to commute to work 2.8 miles one way. I have never been of the pavement with it. It is far too fragile a bike for me. The last chain snapped while riding up a hill, not vey much fun. I originally went looking for a police model since watching the police train by riding down steps led me to believe these were heavy duty bikes. The bike shop said the 6000 was equivalent. I feel that I really got screwed on this bike. My 38 year old Schwinn rolls better and turns sharper and I only had to replace the chain once after 6258 miles.

This is only the second bike I have purchased. I still ride my 1972 Schwinn Varsiy whenever (too often) that the Trek is broken.

Pretty light, good components for the price, can take a beating (not for downhilling or freeriding though, as it is a hardtail)

Tires aren't very grippy

Great bike, can definitely take a beating from a beginner, or a more experienced rider. Handles well, and not too wide so you can get through those narrow parts on the trail. The stock tires kind of suck, and slide everywhere, but those are easy to upgrade, plus, you'll probably want to go tubeless pretty quickly anyway. This frame is built to last, so once you get more into it, put a dual air suspension fork, some SRAM X7 or X9 components (unless you switch everything at one time to Shiamno, but don't try to mix shimano and SRAM), and you've got one helluva bike.

Specialized HR, Trek 4500

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The Definitive Guide to Sizing a Vintage Mountain Bike

• 5 Min To Read
• 03 Jul, 2023

An old piece of vintage mountain biking equipment is a great addition to your collection. Bike sizing has changed over the years, so the 1915s frame design is quite different than the 2000s.

Unfortunately, the current mountain bike sizing charts cannot be used to measure vintage bikes. This is especially true if you want to be exact. However, this is not the end. If your bike is vintage, you can still use the vintage measurement process and compare it with the current size chart.

Vintage Mountain Bike

Let’s begin with a brief overview of vintage bikes. Vintage bikes are a collection of old bikes that dates back to before and after 1915. Vintage mountain bikes are defined by their age in the mid-1980s.

The vintage bikes were not designed to be used on the mountain, but only for road riding.

Vintage Mountain Bike Sizing?

How can you comprehend the bike’s size, which is not consistent with the current mountain bike sizing standards.

Let’s take a look at the different sizing methods our counterparts have come to trust over the years.

Method 1: Using the Inseam Measurement

Although the inseam measurement can be used to date the mountain bike size, it is not the same as the vintage mountain bike size.

How can you ensure the correct inseam length? Stand with your legs apart at a maximum 8 inches.

Next, measure the length of the tape starting at your crotch. Make sure it is the topmost portion of your legs, not your pants. The tape measure should be lowered until it touches the ground.

If it is too difficult to measure yourself accurately, a partner can help.

If you are unsure about your crotch or are unsure about your pants, you could place a book between your legs and feel the top of your pants. Next, measure from the ground to where the book ends.

Your inseam measurement will determine the right size vintage bike. Instead of multiplying this by 0.66, as with current mountain bike sizes, subtract 14 from your results. Your answer should give you the correct size mountain bike that you should compare with vintage bikes.

Method 2: Stand Over Method

If you’re lucky enough to buy the bike in a store you can use the stand-over method. This is when you stand on the bike astride and get ready to go for a ride. However, your legs are on the ground.

Your crotch should be at least an inch from the top tube to achieve the perfect size bike. However, your mountain trails will determine the exact spacing.

For example, if there are more people riding in downhill conditions, spacing can be as high as 7 inches. For cross-country trips, you will need to space your riders four inches apart.

Why is the spacing important? If you’re standing or trying to adjust your seat, the spacing will protect your crotch. The more difficult the situation, the greater the space should be.

Method 3: The Seat Tube Sizing

This is the most common method of sizing bikes, including mountain bikes. To find the best fit, you will need to measure your height and inseam.

The seat tube measurement begins at the bottom of your seat post and continues down to the section where the pedals align.

This measurement will give the bike measurement. You can also use your height to determine your best bike.

These are the top three ways to get the right mountain bike size. These methods can all be used simultaneously to achieve the right mountain bike sizing.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What size vintage frame do i need.

It would be helpful to have a vintage bike frame that is appropriate for your height and length. This will depend on what type of vintage bike that you are looking for. Is it a mountain bike or a road bike? You can use the above three methods to build mountain bikes.

You can use the same methods as above to purchase a roadbike. However, there may be slight variations. If you measure your inseam, you will notice a smaller spacing between the top tube (and the crotch)

Does it matter if my bike frame is too big?

Yes. You will have to strain to pedal if your bike frame is too large. You will not be able to pedal at the speed your large frame allows.

Should I get a medium or large mountain bike?

The size you need will depend on your height. Mountain bikes are more efficient in smaller frames than road bikes. Make sure to measure your frame first.

The large mountain bike is best for tall people. Medium-sized people prefer small mountain bikes. It all depends on your measurements and the bike.

What size mountain bike should I get for my height?

The smallest size is XXL if your height ranges between 4?10 ft and 5 ft. The size ranges can take up to three inches to reach the next size. The XXL mountain bikes are comfortable for riders between 6?4 and 6?6 feet.

Wrapping Up

Although owning a vintage bicycle can boost your self-esteem and accomplishments in the world of cycling, most people buy them for their fun. They are heavier than modern mountain bikes and therefore more difficult to pedal. A new bike will be more suitable for you if you are looking to race.

For a comfortable and fit bike, it is important to measure your vintage mountain bike. It should be your first consideration before you rush to buy the bike.

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New Hub Grand Opening - May 2nd, 3-5 PM RSVP NOW

Recycling Bicycles Building Communities

The mission of the Bicycle Collective is to promote cycling as an effective and sustainable form of transportation and recreation, and a cornerstone of a cleaner, healthier, and safer society. We provide refurbished bicycles and educational programs to the community focusing on children and lower income households.

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Buy Bikes & Parts

Every dollar of profit from new and refurbished bike sales going back into our charitable mission. Buy something you need, and you might just be helping out someone who is in need.

Donate Bikes & Parts

All of the bikes that we are able to give away or sell at a reduced cost are donated to us by individuals or organizations.

Volunteers are the lifeblood of the Bicycle Collective, grounding our culture as a bike shop by the community, for the community.

Become A Member

Buy an annual Individual or Family Membership, and you will be supporting Bicycle Collective's charitable programs. Plus you get some cool benefits!

the new hub is open!

With everyone's support, we did it. We opened our doors in late 2023 and welcomed our stakeholders and clients into our New Hub. But that is not the finish line, that is the starting line of a new journey. 2024 promises to be a year of transformation for Bicycle Collective, with opportunities to grow our impact in ways we could not have previously imagined. While there is still much work to do, our Community Bike Shop space is open for those needing to rent a bench and/or tools to work on their bikes. Our retail floor is loaded with more refurbished bicycles than we have ever been able to display in our old West Temple shop, and our professional mechanics are available to help guide those who need some help. We are also able to accept donations of bicycles and parts. Check the Locations tab for current hours, and please stop in and say hello!

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325 West 900 South, SLC, UT 84101

801-328-2453 [email protected] Directions

Our 141 rooftop solar panels are helping to offset our power consumption and put juice back into the grid, thanks to Rocky Mountain Power's Blue Sky grant program, and our friends at Creative Energies.

936 E. 28th Street, Ogden, Utah 84403

801-997-0336 [email protected] Directions

HAPPY 2024!

Regarding bike donations: we accept bikes and parts donations anytime during open hours. In a pinch, you can leave items by the front porch if we are closed, but it is always best to come in when we are open.

397 E 200 N, Provo, UT 84601

801-210-9032 [email protected] Directions

Happy 2024!

Bike and Parts Donations are welcome anytime during normal shop hours! We are grateful for your donations! If you are in a bind and have to leave items outside when we are closed, that's ok, but always better to come in when we are open and say hello!

39 South Bluff Street Saint George, Utah 84770

435-429-2666 [email protected] Directions

Our updated winter hours for 2024 are posted. Stop by anytime during open hours for new and used parts, refurbished bikes, or to drop off bikes & parts donations. Or, just stop in to say hello!

Shop online

Shop St. George

See some of our inventory available to purchase online. We can ship to you, or have bikes ready for in-store pickup. Many more bikes on our shop floor. Come see us!

Shop Salt Lake City

Browse our online inventory, or stop by the shop if you are looking for something that you don't see here.

We have many more bikes in stock than we can show here! But this will give you an idea of some of our favorites.

Our online shop is just a small sampling of the many bikes that are available in store. Come on by!

BIKE OF THE MONTH: Giant Propel 56cm Road Bike

This month's BOTM is located in our Ogden store.

This a fairly newer model GIANT all carbon road bike, outfitted with a mix of modern Shimano Dura Ace and Ultegra components and wheels. Lightweight climbing machine, ready to race or ride.

2022 Annual Report Published

Another year of positive impacts for Bicycle Collective

Our 2022 Annual Report contains audited financials and impact numbers, from data collected across our four Utah locations in Salt Lake City, Ogden, Provo, and St. George. We also recognize community partners, our amazing staff and volunteer crews, and offer acknowledgement of many supporters large and small. Available online as a PDF, click the button below.

Stories View All

Salt Lake Tribune Visits Our New Hub

Salt Lake Tribune feature story on the opening of Bicycle Collective's New Hub, by Sofia Jeremias.

Ashton Stoker's Race Report from El Doce

Ashton Stoker is an enthusiastic mechanic in our Ogden shop, but what really gets him stoked is endurance mountain bike racing. Ashton raced the El Doce endurance race, held at Powder Mountain back in late July. The race is known as a 12 Hour race, usually done in teams, but Ashton competed Solo.

April Volunteer Highlight: St. George

Each month, Bicycle Collective features a volunteer who has made an outstanding contribution from one of the Bicycle Collective's four locations. This month we're featuring Steve, an amazing volunteer from the Saint George shop.

Last Piece Of The Puzzle To Restore A Redline

Check out this vintage Redline BMX bike that was restored with a hard-to-find part available on Bicycle Collective's online store, thanks to our Provo location.

Bicycle Beautiful Ogden - Artist Interview

Read about how Bicycle Collective's Ogden shop mural came to be. Words from the artist, Lindsay Huss: " This mural is a celebration of all that Bicycle Collective does for our wonderful community. So many people do not have the privilege of owning a bike. Bicycle Collective regularly gives away bicycles to children and those in need of dependable transportation, focusing on marginalized communities."

Revisiting The Gift of a Bike

The Gift of a Bike is a short video that captures the spirit of what it is like when staff and volunteers of Utah's Bicycle Collective deliver goodwill bicycles to a family in need. In this case, a family who fled their homeland of Eritrea, and were living in a refugee camp on Ethiopia. They had only been in the U.S. for 14 days!

Things To Do If Your Bike Gets Stolen

One of our most frequently asked questions is, “My bike got stolen, what do I do?” This is a difficult emotional experience that sucks the joy out of cycling. The best way to avoid what often feels like a hopeless situation from occurring is to prevent it from happening. Here are a few actions one can take...

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NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 900W

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7 

Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

Battery Weight: 9.1 lbs

Max Load (driver+bike): 275.0 lbs

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

Battery compartment design is weak. I have anther Moscow and ot would come lose on top. Screws are so small. I also woul brace the battery with strap due to rattling. Otherwise love my moscow

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

I ordered the bike 4 days ago and today it arrived. Now my first impressions: it is easy to assemble, looks great, is cleanly finished and after a first short driving test I have to say, the hammer. It's totally easy to drive. If it stays that way, I can only say thank you Leon Cycle. Now I can cycle again, despite knee problems. Price-performance top

Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

Purchased two Moscow 27.5. One for my wife, one for me. Fast delivery, well boxed and easy assembly. Absolutely FANTASTIC to ride and use. Great range, and enough power for steep hills and tough terrain. I highly recommend them. Exactly as advertised and brochure. Looked at many options from other suppliers but these are the best value for money. If anyone wants a little extra range and a few more features then a Moscow Plus may suit. 48 Volt is the way to go. Great support and assistance from the team at Leon to make the right purchase decision. Hope other people may enjoy the ride and quality product. Harry G

Highlighted Features

Das-Kit 500W Motor

Ergonomic handlebar grips

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16Ah, 768Wh

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 750W

Display: Das-Kit, C7

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