road trip through baja california

The ultimate Baja California road trip guide

Oct 27, 2020 • 6 min read

While traveling to Ensenada be sure to spend at least a day in Valle de Guadalupe © Jorge Malo Photography / Getty Images

Baja California evokes a rugged, wild west kind of adventure. Stretching some 760 miles south from the US border, this Mexican peninsula is a land of compelling contrasts — a dry, mostly desert geography with hidden enclaves of lush vineyards, jagged mountains and solemn cactus forests bordered by crystalline waters and wide sandy beaches.

Baja is at once a sparsely-populated no man’s land, and home to thousands of species of marine life and millions of vacationing tourists. Here's what you need to know for the ultimate Baja California road trip. 

The Free and Sovereign State of Baja California

Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California , the aptly grandiose official name of Baja’s northern state.

Removed from the Mexican mainland, Baja California has evolved its own distinct aesthetic and culture. From low-key towns with just the right amount of civilization to unmarked dusty roads awaiting exploration, Baja has a charm that keeps those who know coming back for more.

The peninsula is divided into two states: Baja California in the north and Baja California Sur below the 28th parallel. 

The infamous border town has finally grown into its own. A growing middle-class and burgeoning cultural scene has helped turn this former hedonism destination into a Mexican city with its own identity.

With an international airport, a solid bus system and many rental car options – along with its proximity to major US cities like San Diego and Los Angeles – Tijuana is the most convenient starting point for a Baja adventure.

But first, take a moment to get to know TJ (its local nickname). Stroll down Av Revolucion for Mexican nightlife options like Las Pulgas , sample local craft beers at Norte Brewing Co , and perhaps most importantly, chow down on spicy tacos or fresh seafood at one of the city’s many street vendors. Beyond the tourist trinkets and margarita-callers near the border, Tijuana has a vibrant food and culture scene worth exploring.

Expert tip: If you have some extra time, take a quick cab ride out to Playas de Tijuana. This beach suburb offers a lively local experience, with family picnics, seafood cocktails, and a close-up view of the US-Mexico border wall as it trails off in the Pacific.

Once you’ve given Tijuana a go, turn your attention south. Baja awaits.

A 2-hour drive down the Pacific coast you’ll find Ensenada . A major port town and vacation destination, Baja California’s third-biggest city is a good example of the state’s varied character. Arriving in town you feel the transition – from the border region’s hectic and often hard urban life, to a more relaxed Mexico.

Ensenada has an impressive waterfront promenade ( malecón in Spanish), a serious fishing and seafood scene, and a lively nightlife. Pass by Hussong’s , a cantina that’s been around since the 1890s, for mariachi. For freshly-caught seafood, stroll through the Mercado Negro fish market, or head a few streets off the main strip to Tacos Don Zefe for tasty fish tacos.

Expert tip:  Ensenada is a great home base from which to access Mexico’s biggest winemaking region. Valle de Guadalupe is a lush valley and wine-tasting hot-spot. There’s a growing selection of vineyards at affordable prices and tours can be easily booked from Ensenada.

The Road South – Baja California Sur

After Ensenada, Baja California’s remote and unsettled side begins to show itself. And it’s where most travelers must make choice – how to get south?

If traveling by car, the famous one-lane Highway 1 is a spectacular winding road with epic views. It can be slow-going and there are stretches of hundreds of miles with nothing but stoic cacti, tiny fishing villages and empty coastline. Leave early and plan your fuel stops carefully.

The bus system works quite well, with many options leaving from Tijuana or Ensenada. Travel times to Baja Sur range from 10-20 hours depending on your destination.

Expert tip: At about the halfway point of the peninsula, there are worthwhile stops like San Ignacio for its lovely lagoon and world-class whale watching; Mulegé for a lush oasis and white sand beaches; and Loreto for a time-machine colonial town.

The capital of Baja Sur, La Paz , like Ensenada, is an example of a major city that has maintained its smaller-town Baja feel.

With a charming malecón and a seafside main strip, La Paz is a relaxing vacation alternative to uber-touristy Cabo San Lucas. La Paz is the launching pad for Isla Espiritu Santo , one of the 244 islands that form a Unesco biosphere reserve famous for its overwhelming selection of marine life (French explorer Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium”).

Expert tip: La Paz is also an ideal location for day trips, with windsurfing mecca Los Barilles and many secluded beaches within a 1 to 2-hour drive.

Todo Santos

Imagine a mix of sleepy Mexican village and chic Southern California boutique hotel, where dusty roads and charming cobblestone share the same block. Sprinkle some yoga studios and art galleries, with beat-up pickup trucks off-roading on deserted beaches – and you begin to get a picture of Todos Santos .

The latest destination for well-off artsy types, Todos Santos is part manicured tourist town, part rustic Baja escape. Deemed a Pueblo Mágico (magical town) by the Mexican government Todos Santos, despite intense gentrification, manages to blend high-end options with a laid-back vibe.

People who love it, love it a lot. You’ll find many Americans living here full-time or coming down for the season. There’s no shortage of pricier hotels and restaurants, with kale smoothies readily available.

Budget travelers generally have a hard time in Todos, but a family-run hostel has finally opened up, with Todos Santos Hostel offering dorms and cozy glamping options in a relaxed surfer/artist atmosphere. For quality pub fare and friendly locals, check out Chill N’ Grill where you’ll always find an ex-pat ready to gush over Todos Santos’ charm.

For those looking for a truly amazing experience check out Todos Santos Eco Adventures  . Owned and operated by husband and wife duo Sergio & Brian you can find all your sustainable adventure needs in one place. They can take you to a remote island for glamping where you can sleep under the stars by night and paddle board with sea turtles by day. They can take you birding and whale watching and basically help you enjoy the Baja in all its natural glory in an intimate, friendly and sustainable way. Plus the food is amazing too. 

Expert tip: About 15 minutes down the main road you’ll find San Pedrito and Los Cerritos beach , well-known surf destinations in a picturesque yet raw Pacific setting.

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This article was originally published in May 2019 and updated in October in 2020. 

This article was first published May 2019 and updated October 2020

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Baja California Road Trip: Your Perfect Itinerary (2023)

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. At no cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you make a purchase through the links in this article. 

Baja California road trip is one of the most fun experiences in Mexico!

Spanning 760 miles south of the US border, Baja California is a land of contrasts. The dry, seemingly empty desert is home to lush fruit orchards, hidden oases, and mountain chains with deep canyons that are home to ancient petroglyphs.

Driving in Baja might feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, but this is not true: it’s a popular destination that attracts millions of tourists, and while distances are long, exploring this region is a lot of fun!

In this article, I will give you a detailed overview of how to plan your trip and make sure you don’t miss any highlights of this vast area.

Baja California road trip: A step-by-step guide

Day 1: Arrive at San Jose Del Cabo International Airport 

If you are starting your Baja California road trip from the south, begin your trip in Cabo San Lucas, the main tourist hub of the region. When you arrive in Cabo , you can rent your car near San Jose Del Cabo Airport and spend a couple of days in the area. 

✅ CHECK CAR RENTALS IN CABO SAN LUCAS AIRPORT

Make a stop in San Jose Del Cabo

Where to stay: One and Only Palmilla

San Jose Del Cabo is a small cousin of Cabo San Lucas and has a more residential feel to it.

While San Jose Del Cabo was overlooked by many visitors not so long ago, things are quickly changing, as more tourists stop here to explore its Art Walk, and enjoy the cute downtown and main square. 

There are also many beachfront hotels in San Jose Del Cabo that are perfect alternatives to pricey resorts in Cabo San Lucas. It also has a turtle conservation program that allows visitors to release newly hatched turtles into the ocean. 

Day 2-3: Spend a few days in Cabo San Lucas

Where to stay: Me Cabo  

Although Cabo San Lucas is mostly known for its resorts, this popular destination has so much more to offer! You could easily spend a few days enjoying some of the best things to do in Cabo San Lucas.

Here’s a brief overview of some of the popular activities in the area:

Best things to do in Cabo San Lucas

• Los Arcos – the famous arch is a trademark image of Cabo and is a must-stop. You can catch a boat ride to Los Arcos from the Cabo marina for about 300-500 Pesos. 
• Sailing tour – When visiting Cabo, don’t forget to take a sailing tour! There are all kinds of sailing tours, like sunset tours , kayaking and snorkeling tours , and party tours . 
• Kayaking/paddle boarding – One of the most popular activities in Cabo that is typically done early morning before the waves pick up. Book a fun kayaking tour here .
• Visiting local beaches – Cabo San Lucas is home to several beaches that you should visit during your trip. Don’t forget to spend some time beach hopping in the area. 

Best tours in Cabo San Lucas

Day 4-5: go hiking in santiago/dive in cabo pulmo national park.

Santiago is a small town about 50 minutes north of Cabo San Lucas that makes for a perfect stop on your road trip. This hidden gem is home to many cool trails in the Sierra De La Laguna Mountains and amazing hot springs.

👉 Many travelers miss Santiago, and I also had no idea about it, until a local told me about this place. Although it’s not as famous as other places, it’s absolutely worth a stop.

Cabo Pulmo National Park

As an alternative, you can go diving or snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo National Park outside of Cabo San Lucas. Cabo Pulmo is a popular getaway with many people coming here to enjoy water sports and camping.

✅ The road to Cabo Pulmo is a bit rough, so it’s better to rent a high clearance vehicle .

Day 6: Todos Santos

Where to stay: Las Nubes

Todos Santos is a charming small town and one of the few pueblos magicos in Baja California.

Many visitors love Todos Santos for its small-town vibe, slower pace of life, and access to some of the best surfing beaches like Playa Cerritos.

There’s a growing ex-pat community in Todos Santos, and many restaurants here have menus in English catering to visitors from the United States and Canada.

When you visit Todos Santos, stay around until the sunset – the most beautiful time when the town glows in the golden light. You can also watch the sunset at Playa Cachorro, the closest beach right outside of town.

Spend the night in one of Todos Santos hotels like the gorgeous Hotel San Cristobal along the beach.

Optional stop in Playa Cerritos for surfing

Alternatively, you could stay in one of the hotels along Playa Cerritos near Todos Santos, one of the most popular surfing beaches in Baja California. This is a popular destination with several restaurants, a surfing school, and various services along the beach.

Day 7-8: Explore La Paz

Where to stay: Posada De Las Flores

After spending a night in Todos Santos, arrive in La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and a gateway to adventure. While Cabo is known for its party scene, La Paz is famous for its outdoor activities like scuba diving , swimming with sea lions , and sandboarding along the dunes.

La Paz is also home to Playa Balandra, one of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico just 25 minutes away by car. 

✅ Check my complete guide to visiting Balandra Beach .

Best things to do in La Paz, Mexico

• Isla Espíritu Santo – Designated as Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995, Isla Espiritu Santo is home to tons of wildlife including various birds, sea lions, and dolphins. Most tours to Isla Espíritu Santo include a stop at islotes, a group of islands where you can swim with adorable sea lions.

Want to snorkel with sea lions? Book your tour of Isla Espiritu Santo here .

• La Paz Malecón – El Malecón aka the Main Street of La Paz is located along the waterfront and is perfect for watching sunsets. It’s also home to many restaurants and tour companies.
• El Mogote Dunes – Located about 30 minutes outside of La Paz, El Mogote Dunes are popular for sand boarding and sunset watching.

Book a fun sand boarding tour of El Mogote here .

• Whale sharks – Whale sharks are not your typical sharks, so don’t get scared! They are the largest fish in the world and can grow up to 60 feet long! Swimming with whale sharks is completely safe, as they are just gentle giants. 

✅ This tour led by local marine biologist allows you to swim right next whale sharks!

Best tours in La Paz, Mexico

Day 9: Loreto

Where to stay: Hotel Oasis

After spending a couple of days in La Paz, continue driving to Loreto, a hidden gem of the region.

Loreto was one of my favorite stops in the region. The town has an interesting history and a beautiful church located in the Old Town. It’s a perfect place to take a break and enjoy a slower pace of life after being on the road for a couple of days.

If you have enough time, spend more than a day in Loreto because there is too much to do here. Like the rest of Baja California, Loreto offers top-notch opportunities for wildlife watching, but there’s also plenty of culture here.

Bahia De Loreto National Park

The jewel of the area, Bahia De Loreto National Park is made up of a group of islands that boast some of the most gorgeous beaches in Baja California. Malecón (aka the waterfront) is where you can hire a boat tour to explore one of the islands, or do a custom tour package that includes several islands.

Read: Can I pay with US dollars in Mexico?

Touring Bahia De Loreto National Park is a lot of fun because unlike touristy places like Playa Balandra, it has a wild and rugged feel to it. When I visited one of the islands, most boats had left by mid-day and I had the entire beach to myself, which was cool!

Day 10-11: Mulege

Where to stay: Hotel Cuesta Real

After visiting Loreto, continue your journey north toward Mulege , a sleepy village that is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Baja. Mulege beaches are located within Bahia de Concepcion, and most of them have calm waters sheltered from big waves that are perfect for swimming and kayaking.

Most Mulege beaches also have campsites, facilities, and kayak rentals and you should spend a couple of days touring them.

After visiting Mulege, many visitors head straight to Guerrero Negro to see the whales, but there are also a couple of worthy stops along the road.

Day 12: Santa Rosalia

A small village around the coast, Santa Rosalia has some interesting history that dates back to mining and a beautiful church. If you have enough time, it’s worth a quick stop on your Baja California road trip, but if not, you can also stop here for a couple of hours before continuing your drive north.

San Ignacio – a tiny mission town, San Ignacio is set on the lake – something you don’t see much when traveling inland.

Day 13-14: Take a whale watching tour in Guerrero Negro

Where to stay: Hotel Los Caracoles

Guerrero Negro is the last place you will visit in Baja California Sur before arriving in Baja California (or Baja Norte). It is a small industrial town known for its salt flats and whale watching.

If you are visiting from December through April, stop in Guerrero Negro and go on a whale watching tour with one of the local operators.

👉 Most tourism in Guerrero Negro revolves around whale watching, and you won’t find much else here during the off-season. If you are visiting outside of the whale watching season, you could just stop at salt flats to snap some photos before continuing your journey north.

Guerrero Negro is a good place to crash for the night after a lengthy drive through the desert.

PRO TIP: You will be on the road for a while when you are traveling from Guerrero Negro to Ensenada, so prepare to spend most of your day on the road.

Day 15: Ensenada

Where to stay: Playa Hermosa Bed and Breakfast

Ensenada is less than 2 hours south of Tijuana and makes a great stop on your way to the popular Valley De Guadalupe. It will be your first major stop after you arrive in Baja from the U.S.

Whether you want a laid-back trip or an adventure-packed getaway, Ensenada has it all. Here you can take a whale watching tour in winter months, explore Playa Hermosa , hit the bars and visit La Bufadora , a natural geyser that’s best observed during the high tide.

🚗 You will need to drive about 45 minutes from Ensenada to reach La Bufadora, but the drive is well worth it, as you will enjoy the spectacular view of the water shooting through the volcanic rocks!

Day 16: Valle De Guadalupe

Where to stay: Encuentro Guadalaupe Ecological Reserve

One of the top wine regions in Mexico, Valle De Guadalupe is one of the most popular places to visit in Baja California. It’s a great spot to recharge and enjoy the tranquil scenery, even if you are not a wine lover.

Valle De Guadalupe is often compared to the famous Napa Valley near San Francisco , but prices here are just a fraction of Napa and it’s nowhere near as crowded.

Best guided tours of Valle De Guadalupe

Finish your trip in tijuana.

Where to stay: Hotel Palacio Azteca

After visiting Valle De Guadalupe, arrive in Tijuana, a border city that has a seedy reputation according to what you have seen on the news in America. While Tijuana does have violence, most of it is tied to drug trafficking, and unless you are going to get involved with drugs, your chances of staying safe are much higher.

Or Mexicali

Alternatively, you can also finish your adventure in Mexicali , the capital of Baja California that enjoys a much safer reputation than Tijuana, and sits across the border from California’s Imperial Valley.

Mexicali is a fun place to visit as it boasts a couple of historic landmarks like La Chinesca, the largest China Town in Mexico , Art Passage Mexicali, and the spectacular Algodones Dunes which are about 40 minutes away from Mexicali by car.

MISTAKES TO AVOID WHEN PLANNING YOUR BAJA ROAD TRIP

• Do not cram your road trip in 7 days – If time is short, this could be tempting, but you should stay away from doing it because you will miss out on so many things to do here! Due to the sheer size of the peninsula and long driving distances, you are bound to miss things, if you have 7 days or less for your road trip.
• Stock up on water and snacks . Parts of Baja California are far apart from each other and you could be hundreds of miles from the nearest gas station. 
• Fill up your car – When driving around Baja, you could be on the road for a while before finding a gas station. Always have a full tank of gas.

👉 There’s one stretch of the road between the town of El Rosario south of Ensenada in Baja California and Guerrero Negro in Baja California Sur, where you will not find any gas stations. Research the locations of gas stations ahead of your road trip. 

• Take your time driving – Some areas of Baja California have narrow winding roads. To stay safe, take your time driving, and keep your high beams off if you are driving at night. 
• Watch out for animals – Sometimes, cows and other domestic animals could appear out of nowhere on Baja roads. This has become somewhat of a problem, so watch out while you are driving, especially at night. 

Baja Road Trip: FAQ’s

Where to begin your Baja California road trip?

You can begin your itinerary either in the north after crossing the border in Tijuana, Tecate, or Mexicali, or after flying to Cabo San Lucas International Airport (SJD). If you fly into Cabo San Lucas, you will need to rent a vehicle for your trip. From Cabo San Lucas , you can make your way up north, and explore some of the best things to do in Baja California.

I did my road trip from Cabo to Tijuana, but you can also do it by arriving via Tijuana if you cross the land border.

Where to rent a car for your Baja road trip?

Most car rental companies in Cabo San Lucas are near Cabo San Lucas International Airport, and renting a car in Cabo San Lucas right after you arrive is a good idea.

Why rent a car with Discover Cars?

DiscoverCars  is a great platform for renting cars in Cabo San Lucas, La Paz and Tijuana. They work with major car rental companies in Mexico and offer some of the best prices on many types of vehicles.

You can also add a full Mexican insurance for you car rental for less than $10 per day when booking your car with  DiscoverCars .

✅ Check my guide to renting a car in Cabo San Lucas .

How many days do I need for my Baja California road trip?

I recommend no less than 2 weeks for your road trip. This is a vast region, with some of the best beaches in Mexico, world-class diving, and opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. You will need a good amount of time to explore everything that Baja has to offer.

Is Baja California safe to visit?

While the Baja is generally safe to visit, traveling around the region comes with some caveats. Stay on main roads and limit your driving to day time. Avoid remote areas with bad roads, as it can take a while to get help if anything happens.

Is Baja California in Mexico?

The Baja California Peninsula is in northwestern Mexico and consists of two states, Baja California Sur and Baja California, also known as Baja Norte. Although Baja California shares border with California and Arizona, it’s not part of the U.S.

Do you need a passport to go to Baja?

If you are traveling to Baja California from the United States, or any other country, you will need a passport. Whether you are traveling to this Mexican state by car, plane or boat, you will need to show your passport when you arrive at the customs.

What is the best time of year to visit Baja California?

The best time to visit Baja is from December through early May. During this time, you can enjoy mild temperatures, with plenty of sunshine and avoid the scorching hot weather of summer months as well as the hurricane season.

Why visit Baja California?

Baja California is one of the most beautiful parts of Mexico with more than 300 days of sunshine, amazing surfing beaches, and friendly locals. You will be able to enjoy cool hiking, snorkeling, and a slow pace of life which makes this region attractive for so many travelers.

What is Baja California known for?

Baja California is known for its golden-sand beaches, amazing wildlife and recreational opportunities. It’s a popular tourist destination thanks to its proximity to the United States, with tourists coming here year-round.

Do you need a car in Baja California?

This is a vast region with big distances between cities and limited public transportation. It’s essential to have a car, if you want to explore this region and visit some of the best beaches, explore scenic hikes and watch wildlife.

What is it like to drive around Baja California?

Driving in Baja California is a real adventure. This is a popular region with RV’ers, snowbirds and van lifers, and adventurous travelers. Major roads around Baja look desolate, but they are well-traveled since this is a popular part of Mexico for camping and hiking.

When you drive around Baja, some roads have more traffic than others, and your phone signal could disappear in some places, so it’s a good idea to stock up on food and water, and fill up your car, as you could be a few hundred miles away from the nearest gas station.

Baja California road trip: final word

Road tripping Baja California is an amazing adventure.

This is one of the most diverse regions of Mexico with a blend of desert, incredible beaches , and lush groves create stunning landscapes. Whether you do your road trip north or south, take time exploring this part of Mexico, because it’s just too beautiful to rush through. 

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Balandra Beach, a short drive from La Paz, is a serene spot for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.

Baja California Sur: The ultimate road trip

Eat traditional cuisine, shop local fare, and dive into the “the world’s aquarium” in southern Baja.

The margarita-fueled party scene in Cabo San Lucas may claim the limelight, but the Mexican state of Baja California Sur has a wealth of natural and cultural treasures. On the southern half of the Baja California Peninsula, discover an often-wild desert landscape juxtaposed against brilliant blue waters teeming with life. Along the east coast, the Sea of Cortez —dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau —presents underwater adventures from snorkeling with the ocean’s largest fish to diving along a rejuvenated reef, a remarkable environmental success story. When you come up for air, take in sublime sunsets, taste traditional flavors at a taqueria, and track down secluded hot springs. The road less traveled awaits. 

Stop 1: Start with art

Less than 10 miles from Los Cabos International Airport, San José del Cabo lies at the south end of Baja California Sur near the confluence of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. The quieter, not-so-crazy sister city to Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo is known for Spanish colonial architecture, the massive circa-1730 mission cathedral, and the gallery-filled Art District. The city’s convivial Art Walk is held every Thursday evening from November through June, when the weather is practically perfect every day.

Click the image to enlarge the map of Baja California Sur.

Stop 2: Birds of a feather

Just to the south, find the San José del Cabo Estuary wildlife preserve. This peaceful place where the Río San José meets the ocean draws some 200 species of resident and migratory birds including wood storks, pelicans, egrets, herons, ibises, and hawks. Grab your camera or your binoculars, and rent a kayak for a paddle around the coastal lagoon. Or hoof it along the well-marked hiking path. ( Discover what Baja California is doing to save its fishing communities .)

Stop 3: Living large

A short drive southwest reveals one of the latest luxury resorts to spring up along the lively oceanfront corridor that stretches from San José del Cabo to Cabo San Lucas. At the Montage Los Cabos resort, edging Santa María Bay, head to the spa—40,000 square feet of bliss—for treatments such as the Baja Desert Cocoon, which harnesses the healthful properties of sage and agave. Then indulge in new takes on traditional fare at Mezcal restaurant before settling into an ocean-view suite.

Stop 4: Beyond the bash

Yes, Cabo San Lucas has a well-deserved reputation as a raucous party town. But it’s easy to ditch the drinking games for outdoor pursuits like parasailing, surfing, and (in winter) whale-watching. Whatever the time of year, don’t miss the striking El Arco rock formation at the tip of the peninsula, appropriately named Land’s End. Now you’ve earned that margarita at rocker Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo Cantina .

Stop 5: Surf’s up

As you motor north along the Pacific Coast, the setting morphs from bustling to bucolic, giving a sense of local life in Baja California Sur. In El Pescadero, the annual Chili and Strawberry Festival, held in March, celebrates the crops grown here. Surfing is popular, with great breaks at Los Cerritos and San Pedrito. Bring a board to hang ten all day, or take a lesson at the Pescadero Surf Camp (boards provided), which offers overnight accommodations ranging from campsites to casitas.

Stop 6: Charmed, I’m sure

Farther up the western coast lies Todos Santos , designated by the Mexican government as one of the country’s Pueblos Mágicos , or magic towns, for its distinctive culture, history, and beauty. Check in to the 11-room Hotel California , not the inspiration for the famous Eagles tune but still a storied destination. Opened in 1950 by a Chinese immigrant who changed his name to Don Antonio Tabasco, the hotel was the first place in town to have ice, and thus cold beer, making it a local hot spot. Explore the galleries and shops of Todos Santos, and end your day at the beach, where sunset brings brilliant hues and, if you’re lucky, dolphin sightings.

Stop 7: Capital romps

Cross the peninsula to laid-back La Paz , the state capital and the gateway to the Sea of Cortez, with its seemingly endless water-focused adventures. Stay for a few days at Costa Baja Resort and Spa , and ask the concierge to arrange a snorkel with whale sharks, gentle giants that can reach 32 feet or more in length. Other options? Scuba diving with hammerhead sharks, moray eels, and sea lions at Isla Espíritu Santo or stand-up paddle boarding at secluded beaches such as Balandra. In town take a stroll along the famed, and newly renovated, Malecón promenade before tucking into tacos at El Sabroso.

Stop 8: Reel it in

Head south to the remote Hotel Punta Pescadero Paradise , overlooking the sea. At this resort, famed for its quiet allure and world-class sportfishing, expect to bag marlin, sailfish, or dorado—with the help of experienced guides—and then dine on your catch that evening.

Stop 9: Breeze please

Windsurfing and kitesurfing rule the waters 10 miles down the east coast at Los Barriles. Gear up at Vela Baja Adventure Sports , ExotiKite Kiteboarding , or Kiteboarding Baja School , which gives helpful tips on how to skim over the waves like a pro.

La Paz’s Costa Baja Resort and Spa staff can arrange snorkeling expeditions with whale sharks.

Stop 10: Finding the source

In the hills surrounding Santiago , embark on a treasure hunt along dirt roads to discover hidden hot springs. The El Chorro springs are easiest to reach, while the Santa Rita prove more challenging. Look for Cañón La Zorra (Fox Canyon) waterfall. Locals can help point the way.

Stop 11: The life aquatic

The big attraction near the tiny town of Cabo Pulmo is the Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park . Established in 1995, the 17,570-acre protected zone—part of a UNESCO World Heritage site—has revitalized sea life along a coral reef thought to be 20,000 years old. Suit up and dive down to meet groupers, turtles, eels, snappers, and sharks. ( Where to get up close with wildlife in Magdalena Bay. )

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Joshua Tree with beaches and taquerias? No, just an epic Baja road trip

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The road ahead stretches 1,063 miles, beginning at the Mexican border. Outside your car window, you see the cactus-and-boulder expanses of Joshua Tree — but with beaches. Or maybe it’s the Outback of Australia, with taquerias.

It’s the Baja peninsula’s Highway 1 that I’m talking about. For eight days this winter — just before the latest burst of cartel violence claimed three lives on Mexico’s east coast — I followed the road from the border to its rocky conclusion in Cabo San Lucas. The journey included six-fingered giants, baby whales, tropical fish, dry lakes, half-forgotten missions, sons of pioneers, yacht people, panga people, tricked-out trucks and tenacious cyclists.

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I was looking for change. It’s been 50 years since the opening of the first paved road through the badlands connecting Baja’s north and south; 30 years since I drove the whole road for the first time; and 15 years since the surge of cartel violence, mostly on the mainland and in Tijuana, that has shaken Mexicans’ faith in their leaders and kept many Americans away.

This road-trip journal is about who and what I found in Baja’s outback: a new generation of adventurers, spurred by pandemic restlessness and outfitted with tools and toys their parents probably never imagined. Often they explore alongside hardy Bajacalifornianos whose ancestors arrived a century ago.

While many Americans stay away, these travelers and their guides range deep into a gorgeous, deadly landscape that has remained essentially unchanged for decades — except for the part that’s utterly transformed.

“The amount of money you see on the road!” said Cruz Santiago, who has been visiting with his wife from Oregon since 1997. “That’s totally changed.”

Since the worst months of the pandemic, Baja tourists have largely resumed lolling in resorts, wintering in RVs, sportfishing, joining off-road races and raising hell in Cabo San Lucas nightclubs. Thanks to the enduring appeal of warm winters, long beaches and stiff drinks — even in the shadow of an epidemic on a peninsula starved for water — Los Cabos tourism reached record levels in 2022.

An off-roading adventure along the Baja peninsula coast. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

But now many other Baja visitors arrive from the north in trucks, SUVs, vans and motorcycles rigged for camping and backroad overlanding , a booming pastime that barely existed a decade ago.

Other visitors steer fortified mountain bikes on the Baja Divide, a 1,673-mile dirt route that was charted in 2015-16.

They can pinpoint cave paintings and surf spots by satellite with their phones; cozy up to gray whales for Instagram snaps; snorkel with whale sharks near La Paz; kite-surf at La Ventana ; spurn fishing in favor of watching striped marlin attack sardines near Magdalena Bay or mobula rays migrating off the East Cape. They send up drones over the coast, which is longer than those of California, Oregon and Washington combined. (And until January, if you were brave or foolish enough, you could even have gone cage-diving among great white sharks off Baja’s west coast —but Mexican authorities put a stop to that after several safety scares.)

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Cave paintings. Missions. A lagoon where gray whales gather. Whether you’re taking on the whole highway or targeting one stretch, the landscape is full of revelations.

Meanwhile, citing high crime and homicides in Tijuana, the U.S. State Department urges Americans to reconsider travel to northern Baja, to take extra care in the south and to stay entirely away from six other Mexican states on the mainland. (Matamoros, where two Americans and one Mexican were killed in an early March kidnapping attempt, is in Tamaulipas state, about as far from Tijuana as Los Angeles is from Houston.)

With all that in mind, I planned to sidestep Tijuana and spend less than 36 hours in northern Baja. I also hired bilingual guide Nathan Stuart, 41, who lives in Ensenada and co-founded Legends Overlanding in 2020.

Along with Times photographer Brian van der Brug, we rented a truck from San Diego-based Topoterra, which since 2017 has specialized in off-grid vehicle and camping rentals.

“Baja just eats up time,” Stuart warned as we began to plot our itinerary. “There’s a lot to see.”

The first time, in a Toyota 4Runner

From my first trip down this road — back in 1992, with Times photographer Patrick Downs — I knew Stuart was right.

On that journey we rented a Toyota 4Runner, slept in hotels, relied on my sketchy Spanish, paid about $1.75 a gallon for gas and had to get towed out of trouble on a steep slope in Mulegé.

This time, with Stuart driving and translating, we would buckle into a RAM 2500 truck with heated seats, 37-inch tires, a crew cab and a GoFast camper shell with a retractable tent on top. This was a $100,000 rig, rented for $239 a day.

Almost immediately, we knew, it would be cloaked in dust and mud, like most long-haul Baja vehicles. Apart from our highway time, we would log about 350 miles on dirt roads built for anglers, miners and ranchers.

For communication we had Starlink, a subscription service that allows satellite internet access from just about anywhere. For entertainment, we would have Billie, Stuart’s border collie.

Most nights, we would camp on remote beaches and ranch land with owners’ permission. And without a doubt, we’d need to improvise here and there.

Though many Alta Californians don’t realize it, the Baja peninsula is twice the size of Ireland and is divided into two states. The state of Baja California begins at Tijuana and ends about 450 miles south at the 28th parallel of latitude.

Below that point, you’re in Baja California Sur, which has its own time zone and one of Mexico’s lowest crime rates .

Whether you’re north or south, “Connecting with a local is what makes you safe,” Stuart said.

Mile 69: Beneath the Valle de Guadalupe

By 11 a.m. on Day 1 we were in the dark. This was in the Guadalupe Valley, just outside Ensenada.

Step by step, we descended into an underground room dominated by a petrified oak tree, 35 feet high and 200 years old. I thought Doctor Who might materialize from another dimension at any moment. Instead somebody popped open a bottle of wine.

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This was the tasting room of the Bruma winery (open since 2016), one of more than 150 wineries and dozens of lodgings in the valley now, a number that grew fast for a decade, then stalled during the pandemic.

“We give a lot of value and symbolism to nature,” said attendant Heraclio Ojeda, 29, fluent in English, Spanish and the argot of wine professionals everywhere. Ojeda poured and told us about Bruma winemaker Lulu Martinez Ojeda and the 200-acre winery, which includes the popular Fauna restaurant.

As if the valley’s growing winery count weren’t enough, here’s another measure of change: Fauna’s celebrated chef, trained in Copenhagen and New York, is Ensenada-born David Castro Hussong, part of the same German-Mexican family that founded Hussong’s Cantina in 1892.

In a setting nothing like that raucous bar (which lives on in Ensenada), we sat at a long table on Fauna’s patio and attacked the lettuce-with-mackerel starter, the broccoli with chiltepin peppers, the cabbage with chilhuacle peppers and the lamb. First meal of the trip. And the best.

Then it was time to join Highway 1, creep through traffic-choked Ensenada and turn from luxe to rustic.

As Ensenada faded in the rearview mirror and civilization began to fall away, it got easier to picture 1973, when Highway 1 became the first paved road to connect the peninsula’s northern and southern halves.

“The result could be a modern paradise or a tourist slum,” wrote Philip Fradkin of The Times back then. Many Baja-savvy American off-roaders, surfers, anglers and conservationists, Fradkin added, “wring their hands in despair at the thought of the road being completed. Mexicans look forward to such basics as electricity, telephones, freezers, television, fresh foods, more jobs and a share in the new wealth.”

Mile 250: Mama’s people in El Rosario

If outback Baja’s pioneers had a royal family, Anita Grosso Espinoza, better known as Mama, might be part of it. She was one of several children born to a Pima Indian mother and a father who came from Italy in 1880.

Beginning in the 1930s, Mama Espinoza ran a restaurant, lodging and gas station near the blacktop’s end in El Rosario, about 220 miles south of the border.

By the time the highway opened, Mama Espinoza was famous in the region, a bilingual wife, mother, entrepreneur and philanthropist known for her lobster tacos and a ledger book signed by Steve McQueen and James Garner.

“Bad roads, heavy-duty people,” she liked to say. “Good roads, all kind of people.”

Though Mama died in 2016 (estimated age: 105), her restaurant endures. Inside, sipping coffee beneath her portrait, I found Hector Espinoza, 64, a relative of Mama, retired commercial diver and former mayor of El Rosario.

He showed me around the artifact room and told me to savor the Valle de los Cirios , just ahead.

“There’s nothing like it in the world,” Espinoza said.

This is where the highway turns away from the Pacific, entering a world defined by sand, boulders, spines, thorns and only-in-Mexico specimens like the cirio tree, which is tapered like a candle and topped by a blossom of flaming yellow.

Instead of the Joshua trees and saguaro cactuses of Alta California and Arizona, the valley teems with yuccas and cardon cactuses — an almost parallel universe, almost empty of people. Some of the cardons reach 60 feet, flanking the narrow highway like toll gates, making the road look narrower than it is.

But it really is narrow. For most of the next 400 miles, the two-lane highway is 20 feet wide with no shoulder and very few turnouts. This leaves truckers and bus drivers inches to spare, even before they start thinking about meandering cows and donkeys. For good reason, Bajacalifornianos urge all drivers to travel during daylight.

Also, once you pass the El Rosario Pemex station heading south, it’s 200 miles to the next proper gas station.

“The road is very dangerous,” Espinoza said, recalling the government’s promises to widen the road soon after its completion. “In 50 years they’ve done nothing.”

Mile 326: Cataviña dawn and a bed of coals

We camped outside Cataviña, about two miles off the highway. In the morning, like a tortoise emerging from its portable home, I looked out from my rooftop tent as first light fell on the desert.

Of the 120 species of cactuses said to be on the peninsula, about 118 seemed to have gathered to hear our snoring. Once we had coffee in us, Stuart nodded toward a gap between 20-foot-high boulders and we stepped in. Ancient handprints. Dark hashmarks.

This amazed me — until about an hour later, when we reached another cave, this one crawling with black, red and orange hashmarks, circles and a sun with radiating lines.

“That sun?” said local guide Nathan Velasco, 34. “When you count, there are 13 rays, and there are 13 lunar cycles. … It’s all original.”

Velasco had joined us for lunch at his family’s Café La Enramada in Cataviña.

We talked about rock art and the Yuman, Cochimi, Monqui, Guaycura and Pericú people who lived in Baja up to 10,000 years ago . We also talked about Mama Espinoza — because Velasco also is related to her.

That’s when Emily Smith and Nick Tornambe rolled up and stepped in.

Smith, 27, had come from Georgia; Tornambe, 26, from Pennsylvania. They had been pedaling their long-haul mountain bikes for 16 days on the Baja Divide trail. With luck they’d reach La Paz in a month.

“Our favorite campsite was two nights ago, in this wash. We had to cross the riverbed with our bicycles and it was getting dusk,” Smith said. “The moon was rising. We decided to stop. And Nick built this massive fire…”

“And then we let the coals die down,” Tornambe continued, “and covered it back up, and slept on top of that. So it was like this heated bed. Quite nice.”

Mile 362: Fast cars and smuggled parrots in Laguna Chapala

Not far beyond Cataviña, the highway reaches Laguna Chapala, a dry lake bed that people drove on before the highway opened. Now the road skirts the lake, but you can still take your car or bike out on the flats, stomp on the gas and kick up dust. Some overlanders and off-roaders spend hours roaring back and forth, Stuart told us, with drones scrambled above to capture the scene.

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So of course we had to try that. And we needed to meet Eugenio Grosso Peralta, 66, who has been running a ranch, store and restaurant by the dry lake for decades, as his father did before him, and as his son is doing now at the Nueva Chapala restaurant next door.

Of course Eugenio Grosso is related to Mama Espinoza. He’s her nephew. And his father, Arturo Grosso, brother of Mama E., was a renowned road builder and raconteur.

Standing before a set of family portraits and using a flyswatter as a pointer, Grosso gave us the story.

His father was facing punishment in 1925 for desertion from the Mexican military, Eugenio said. But a general gave him a chance to clear his name. All he had to do was scrape 250 miles of mule trails into shape as a drivable dirt road between El Rosario and the mining town of El Arco to the south.

Somehow, Arturo got it done in about a year. Later, he blazed a road to San Felipe and fathered Eugenio when he was 64. By the time Arturo died in 1977, he had told countless visitors the story of the smugglers who once stopped at Chapala on their way north. Parrot smugglers.

Arturo was polite to them, then forgot about it. Then one day on a trip to San Diego, he passed a birdcage on the sidewalk and heard two chirpy voices.

“Hey!” said one of them, as the story goes. “Isn’t that Arturo Grosso from Chapala?”

Mile 475: From tall tales to gray whales at Guerrero Negro

Laguna Ojo de Liebre (a.k.a. Scammon’s Lagoon) is about halfway down the peninsula on its west coast. Every winter, hundreds of gray whales migrate from the Arctic to these waters, wedged between vast sand dunes and even vaster salt flats, to give birth. The busiest months are February and March.

We boarded a panga, headed to a likely corner of the lagoon and saw — well, were seeing so little that a few fishermen felt comfortable motoring over to show off their lobster catch. Consolation creatures.

Fortunately, once I’d caught on with another panga, the excitement escalated.

Tapping gently on his boat to attract cetacean attention, this captain quickly had us within 30, 20, even 10 feet of calves and adult whales up to 40 feet long. We didn’t get to touch them, as many visitors do, but we had front-row seats as they dived and breached, fluttered flukes and sent up wet blasts of air through their blowholes.

“They’re just so majestic, so large, so gentle and so elusive,” said Chris Diamond-Santiago, another visitor. “There’s something magical about them.”

Mile 476: My turn to float

The nearest city to the lagoon is Guerrero Negro, where few visitors linger. It’s mostly a company town, built in the 1950s to support the surrounding saltworks. But Carlos Couttolenc, a guide who grew up in town, has been working on a new tour based on something he did there as a kid: jumping into an evaporation pond.

As he explained, these ponds are highly saline, like the Dead Sea, so you float atop the water, which is thickened by magnesium chloride. Because crystals form in and around the ponds, you’re surrounded by a flat, crunchy white surface. To me it looked like Death Valley and the Dead Sea, together at last.

It was the prettiest publicly accessible pond of industrial byproducts I’ve ever seen. I wanted in.

“Yes,” said Couttolenc. “You will be a superhero now. Or something.”

Normal visitors will be offered an easy way into the water and a shower after. My entrance and exit were more awkward — a little blood, a little stinging. But the sensation of leaning back and floating in blue goo while surrounded by bright white crystals? This was memorable.

“And you should see this at sunset,” said Couttolenc.

We’d covered about 440 miles now. Though we had come across some damage left by Hurricane Kay last September, the only disquieting moment had come in a chance conversation by a gas pump.

Stuart had asked a service station attendant from Sinaloa how she’d landed in Baja.

“They killed my husband,” she said.

All we could do was apologize.

Mile 530: The giants of Mesa del Carmen and the mechanic of San Ignacio

We were about 100 miles north of San Ignacio when the six-fingered giants confronted us.

Stuart had taken us 35 miles off the blacktop and our truck was positioned at the foot of a desert outcropping called Mesa del Carmen.

We’d already seen a full moon rise over this landscape and felt the temperature drop into the 30s. Now it was early morning. Following Stuart up a short, steep trail, van der Brug and I reached a cave, stopped and gawked.

Four oversized men and women stood above us, some with six fingers, all painted on the curving rock wall. The scene also included several deer and fish painted in red and black. To paint the people’s heads, the artist must have stood on scaffolding. Except, as Stuart pointed out, “There’s no lumber for, like, 100 miles.”

We carried our unanswered questions to the south and east, launching into a medley of old towns and beaches along the Gulf of California.

First up: San Ignacio, an oasis that must have looked like a mirage to desert-weary adventurers in the pre-highway years. More palms than people and figs on every menu. A gaggle of 18th century buildings huddled around the plaza. The population, around 1,500, hasn’t much changed in 50 years.

But the 21st century has arrived. I counted three overlanding trucks parked around the plaza, and three motorcycles outfitted for long rides. On the patio of El Rancho Grande restaurant, manager Oscar Fischer, 28, told us how his great-grandfather, Frank Fischer, came to Baja from Germany in 1910.

“He came with a fishing ship, had a fight and deserted,” Fischer said. “He hid himself in the desert and spent two months to get here, God knows eating what.”

Fischer, who was already a skilled blacksmith, learned Spanish and taught himself to be a car mechanic. For decades, Baja adventurers sought him out. Fischer died just months before the highway finally opened, but to this day, half of the businesses in San Ignacio seem to be run by his grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

Next up, an hour east of San Ignacio, was Santa Rosalía, where the Rothschild family bankrolled a copper mine in the 1880s, spawning a strangely Frenchified town.

As the highway approaches from the north, you glimpse the Gulf of California for the first time. But before the beauty can sink in, you’re surrounded by a dump and industrial zone. Then you turn right to go up the city’s main street and you’re surrounded by wooden buildings on a peninsula with precious but few trees. Where did the French get that wood?

Then you come to the town’s most startling building, which is not wood. It’s the Church of Santa Barbara, a prefab structure designed in Europe and made of metal. From the inside, it looks like a Quonset hut with stained-glass windows. Yet it is credited to Gustave Eiffel, who also designed a certain tower in Paris.

The third town in our medley was palm-shaded Mulegé, where I needed towing on that first Baja road trip. This time traffic ensnared us. Then a propane vendor stood us up. We bought firewood instead and blasted off again, because after so many citified hours, we were ready for the still, blue-green waters of Bahía de Concepción.

Mile 765: The beautiful thing we burned

Just beyond Playa el Requeson, where two dozen RVs were lined up on a long sand bar with lapping waters on either side, we turned off the highway, feeling our way along the finger of land that protects the bay.

On this rugged path we met a farmer, asked his permission to camp, and pulled up at water’s edge, 12 miles off the highway.

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The sun was setting behind the glassy bay. Stuart grabbed a sun-bleached cactus skeleton and carried it to our campfire like a pallbearer approaching a gravesite.

“This will be the most beautiful piece of wood I’ve ever burned,” he said.

Sunrise was even better than sunset, because we got to see the light creep up the serrated Sierra de la Giganta mountains. Best campsite of the trip.

By lunchtime, we were in the mountains above Loreto, whispering inside a stone church that was completed in 1758.

Small and remote as it is, many people consider the hamlet of San Javier (population: about 40 families) the birthplace of agriculture in the Californias. Though its church isn’t as old as the Loreto mission (founded in 1697), San Javier’s has more charisma.

Maybe that comes from the rugged mountains all around, or the twisting 21-mile road in from the highway, or the 300-year-old olive tree outside, or the local families that still work the neighboring fields. In any event, many experts consider San Javier to be the best-preserved mission on the peninsula.

Best building in Baja? Maybe.

Mile 1,063: The spokesmodel at Land’s End

At this point, the weather had been kind to us for close to a week. Now it kicked sand in our faces.

As we passed La Paz and neared the bottom of the peninsula, a big wind blew in from the north, clouding the waters of Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park.

We jumped in anyway. In preparing for the trip, I’d read that Cabo Pulmo was a fishing stronghold until the fish nearly ran out in the 1990s. That’s when local families allied themselves with conservationists and the national park was created. With fishing now banned, the fish are back. The reefs are in remarkably good shape . As is the local economy.

“More and more restaurants. More and more dive shops,” said dive guide Oscar Cortes, 34.

As we snorkeled, sea lions swooped close. Hundreds of bigeye jack fish wrapped around me like a silver curtain. Moorish idols, bicolor parrotfish, king angelfish and Gulf grouper, spotted porcupinefish and reef cornetfish all made appearances, their scales flashing like faulty pixels.

Back on the road, we followed the coastline of the peninsula’s East Cape, passing miles of semi-lonely beaches and scores of fast-rising vacation homes. The East Cape is filling up fast.

The nearby mountains are changing too. When we hiked to a waterfall in the Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo , we found ample signage, steps cut in the rock and guide ropes — the first I’d seen in about 900 miles.

Heading up the tourist corridor to Cabo San Lucas, I remembered driving the same stretch of road 31 years before.

Back then, I was amazed that in 20 years San Lucas had grown from a fishing village of fewer than 5,000 residents to about 20,000.

Now the towns of San Lucas and San Jose have effectively merged into the destination we call Los Cabos, and their population has surpassed 350,000 . Los Cabos got 3.3 million visitors last year, the vast majority by air.

Cruise ships and yachts call daily in fall and winter. Early last year the average daily hotel rate in Los Cabos hit $455, the highest in Mexico, and the resorts keep coming. A swishy Four Seasons is due in 2023, a swishier Aman in 2024.

Now we had completed 99% of our mission trouble-free. Except that back in Ensenada, Stuart’s home had been burglarized. And at a Rosarito Beach resort, a 33-year-old public defender named Elliot Blair would die the next morning from head injuries that remain unexplained. Meanwhile in Alta California, six mass shootings were about to happen in the next two weeks.

“Is it safe anywhere you go these days?,” Brandon Thomason of Topoterra had asked a few weeks before, renting us the truck. “You can always be at the wrong place at the right time.”

We parked at the Cabo San Lucas marina, boarded a tour boat (not just glass-bottomed but entirely see-through) and joined dozens of vessels jostling for position. A hostess in spokesmodel makeup rose with a microphone to read robotically from a bilingual script.

We’d reached Land’s End, the peninsula’s iconic natural rock arch, just in time for sunset. The pelicans swooped in golden light. Waves crashed against the rocks.

“This is the end of the Baja California peninsula,” read the hostess from her script. “Or it’s the beginning.”

Watch L.A. Times Today at 7 p.m. on Spectrum News 1 on Channel 1 or live stream on the Spectrum News App. Palos Verdes Peninsula and Orange County viewers can watch on Cox Systems on channel 99.

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Born and raised in California, Christopher Reynolds has written about travel, the outdoors, arts and culture for the Los Angeles Times since 1990.

Brian van der Brug has been a staff photojournalist at the Los Angeles Times since 1997.

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How To Prepare for a Baja California, Mexico Road Trip

Want to go on a Baja California road trip? Learn everything from what to expect crossing the border, what to pack, wifi, camping info, & more.

Stretching 760 miles south from the US/Mexico border, the Baja California Peninsula is a jaw-dropping international road trip destination that’s easily accessible from the US. Split into two states – Baja California (North) and Baja California Sur (South), the northern region is famous for its wine while the south is known for its incredible beaches and marine life.

With the Sea of Cortez to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Baja Peninsula offers endless opportunities for exploration – everything from waterfall hikes, hot springs, surfing, street tacos, UNESCO World Heritage marine sites, and colorful small towns – all at a much slower pace of life.

But planning a road trip – let alone an international one – can be stressful with navigating border crossings, language barriers, and unfamiliar roads and scenery, so that’s why I’ve put together this Baja road trip guide. I spent two months doing van life in Baja and gathered all the info you’ll need to have a safe and fun time in Mexico.

Want to go on a Baja California road trip? Learn everything from what to expect crossing the border, camping info, how to get internet, what to pack, and more.

Best Time for a Baja California Road Trip

The best time to do a Baja road trip is between November and March . The highs range between 70s-80s with lows in the 60s, and combined with the ocean breeze, it’s close-to-perfect weather. It starts to heat up in April, but as long as you are near the water, it doesn’t start to get uncomfortably hot for camping until May.

Winter and early spring are also the prime whale-watching seasons in Baja. Grey whales, blue whales, and humpback whales migrate along the Baja Peninsula each winter from November to March as they make their yearly journey from Alaska down to their winter homes in the Sea of Cortez.

I was in Baja from early February until the second week of April and had near-perfect weather. It did start to get really hot inland by mid-March, and the temperatures driving north were 95F+ in early April, but as long as you are prepared for heat and mostly stick to the coast for camping if visiting during the summer shoulder season, it is manageable.

I would avoid driving to Baja during the summer months because of the scorching heat, humidity, and high chance of tropical storms from August until October.

US/Mexico Border Crossing

There are two main border crossing options that people take when starting their Baja California road trip: San Ysidro and Calexico/Mexicali. The San Ysidro border crossing takes you into Tijuana and down the western route which runs through Ensenada along the Pacific Ocean before heading inland through a number of small agricultural towns. The Calexico border crossing takes you into Mexicali and down the eastern route which runs along the Sea of Cortez and passes through San Felipe.

The route you choose will be up to you and based on your itinerary. I chose to cross into Mexico at Calexico/Mexicali because the drive along the Sea of Cortez is more scenic and less hectic than the western route.

Crossing the border into Mexico isn’t nearly as intimidating as it seems. When you arrive at the border, agents will either wave you through or ask that you pull aside for inspection. I was directed to pull aside and the agent asked to open my side and back van doors. He quickly looked around and the inspection took less than 5 minutes. Because I was planning on staying in Mexico for more than 7 days, I then pulled into the small parking lot to go inside to get my FMM visa (more on that below). From arrival to departure, it took about 20 minutes total to drive through the Mexicali border. 

Note that crossing from Mexico back into the US generally takes much longer. On my return to the US, the wait to get to the border took about 1.5 hours at Mexicali, but it can take much longer than that, especially if returning via the Tijuana/San Ysidro border (which tends to be the busiest). I wasn’t pulled aside for inspection when crossing back into the US although that is something that could happen.

Documents You’ll Need to Drive to Mexico

Along with your physical passport, I recommend bringing a few copies of your passport to stash in your vehicle. Once you cross the border, you should never need to hand over your physical passport again. Always present a copy if you are asked.

FMM Tourist Card

If you plan to stay in Mexico for more than 7 days, you are required to get a temporary tourist visa, which costs $35 USD and allows you to stay in Mexico for up to 6 months. You can apply online ahead of time, or get it in person at the border. If you apply online, be sure to print out BOTH the receipt and the tourist card. If you do not print both documents, you will have to pay again at the border. It’s important to note you cannot use a credit card to pay for your FMM at the border – it is cash only, but they accept USD.

Even if you apply online, you still have to stop to get your visa stamped inside at the border. I highly recommend skipping the online application and just getting your FMM card at the border. I applied a week before crossing but my visa was never processed, and I had to pay again at the border. This happened to the entire group I was traveling with and I’ve heard of other travelers having issues with the online application as well. Save yourself the headache and money and just buy your FMM at the border.

Mexican Auto Insurance

Car insurance is required by Mexican law because US policies cannot prove your financial responsibility to the Mexican authorities – your US car insurance will not work in Mexico. There are many companies that you can get car insurance through, but the most highly recommended (and what I went with) is Baja Bound .

Pet Vaccinations Records

If you are bringing your pet(s) across the border, you will need to have their vaccination records handy. In speaking with multiple dog owners, none of them were asked for any records at the border, anytime during their stay, or upon re-entry to the US. However, it is best to have them on hand just in case. Get more tips on road tripping with pets here .

Driving in Baja

There are basically two major roads that run through Baja: Highway 1 (crossing from Tijuana all the way south to Cabo) and Highway 5 (crossing from Mexicali). The roads are quite narrow with potholes and minimal shoulders, so be sure to take it slow and pay attention while you’re driving. 

Military Checkpoints

There are approximately 6 military checkpoints along the highways in Baja all the way down to Los Cabos. These are usually quick checks to make sure you do not have any drugs or guns with you, and they will usually ask questions like “¿De dónde vienes?” ( where are you coming from? ) and “¿Adónde vas?” ( where are you going? ).

It can be intimidating seeing men with large guns, but they are typically friendly and non-confrontational. Sometimes they will wave you through the checkpoint, and sometimes they will ask to look inside your vehicle – I was asked to open my side door about 50% of the time. I highly recommend keeping your valuables out of sight and staying in the vehicle or standing right alongside to watch as they search your van, just to be safe. I personally did not have any issues during these checkpoints.

Tips for Driving in Baja

• Avoid driving at night : this is not a personal safety issue, this is because there are typically cows and other roadside hazards that are hard to see.
• Fuel up often : Gas stations can be few and far between on the long stretches of road and sometimes they run out of gas. Be sure to fill up often.
• Bring a spare tire : Baja has tons of bumpy dirt roads and the chances of getting a flat are high. Make sure you have a spare tire and it’s aired up.
• Beware of speed bumps : Baja is notorious for sneaky speed bumps as you get closer to towns. Sometimes they’re signed as “Tope”, but many times they are not and they can really test your vehicle’s suspension.
• Have pesos on hand : Some gas stations are cash only, so be sure to have enough pesos in your vehicle.
• Save the Green Angels number : The Green Angels are a government-funded patrol crew that acts similar to AAA in Baja. Save this number: 01-800-987-8224 in case of emergency. They can assist with mechanical issues, towing, accidents, and more.
• Know common driving etiquette : Drivers will flash their hazards to signal you to slow down, typically because there is a road hazard (usually cows or goats) ahead. When drivers turn their left-hand turn signal on the highway, it means it’s clear/OK to pass (this is usually done by semis or slower vehicles).

Cell Phones + Internet in Baja

Having internet in Mexico is ideal for getting directions, staying connected to loved ones, and working from the road. Here’s a breakdown of how to get internet in Mexico:

U.S. SIM Card

The easiest way to stay connected while you’re in Baja is to check if your current cell phone carrier offers international coverage options. Some carriers offer a limited service, such as unlimited calls/texts to the US and a small amount of data roaming per day included in your plan, while others charge a flat fee per day to use your phone outside of the US.

If you’re in Baja for a short trip and/or don’t need internet for work, this is usually enough service, however, since you’ll be roaming in Mexico with a US SIM card, don’t expect the same internet speeds and reliability.

Tip:  I’ve been using my Visible+ phone plan in Baja which offers unlimited talk, text, and roaming in Mexico (data up to .5GB/day). In areas with cell coverage, I’ve been able to call and text family and friends back in the US as normal and use my phone minimally for Google Maps, social media, and light internet browsing. You can learn more in our full review of Visible Wireless .

If you’re road tripping through Baja in your camper van and work remotely (or just want internet access anywhere you camp), Starlink is the best – but most expensive – option. There are many areas in Baja without any cell service, but Starlink’s satellite internet offers incredibly fast speeds, even in those cell phone dead-zone areas throughout the peninsula.

This winter I’ve been traveling with several friends who have Starlink, and it’s been a game changer for exploring more remote beaches and having peace of mind with full internet access.

Local Telcel SIM card

If you don’t have Starlink but want to be able to have consistent cell signal in areas with service, or will be working in your van in Baja, I highly recommend buying a local Telcel SIM card from any OXXO store (similar to a 7/11). You will need an unlocked phone in order to use Telcel. Even though T-Mobile and other US carriers use the same towers in Mexico, the signal is never as strong as those with Telcel plans.

During my first Baja road trip in 2022, I used Telcel exclusively (since Starlink didn’t exist then). I initially paid USD $7.50 + $2.50 activation fee for a SIM card with 4.5GB of data that lasts up to 30 days. Since I worked remotely, I needed more data than the plan provided, but with a Tecel plan, you can also buy unlimited data for 2 hours for $.75 and top up when needed.

I’ve also relied on Telcel in 2023 when traveling solo or without access to a Starlink. Telcel is by far the most economical way to get reliable internet in Baja if you’re working remotely.

Tip:  If your cell phone only has 1 SIM card slot, see if you can switch your US SIM to an e-SIM before coming to Baja. Using Visible’s e-SIM, I can leave my Telcel SIM inside my phone and use both carriers at the same time. I use Telcel for unlimited data to work, and Visible for calls/texts to friends and family.

Roaming Rivers put together a working in Baja e-book that I bought ahead of time that helped guide me step-by-step through the process of getting a SIM card and setting up unlimited data that I highly recommend. I also recommend turning on “Low Data” mode as soon as you cross the border and leaving your phone on airplane mode anytime you’re not using it to ensure you preserve your data.

Public Wi-fi

If you’re just coming down to Baja for a quick trip and don’t need consistent internet access, it’s possible to rely on public Wi-fi. Cafes in larger cities like Todos Santos, La Paz, or Cabo usually have strong Wi-fi, but in smaller towns, reliable Wi-fi is hard to come by and pretty slow.

However, it’s much easier to stay connected if you either bring your existing phone plan with you to Baja, have Starlink, or buy a local Telcel SIM card in Mexico.

In addition to getting your phone set up in Mexico, here are a few helpful apps to download:

• iOverlander : great for finding campsites, water refill stations, dump stations, laundromats, mechanics, restaurants, showers, and more.
• Google Maps : be sure to download maps for offline use ahead of time.
• Google Translate : you can download Spanish for offline use.
• XE Conversion : easily convert pesos to USD.
• Libby : link a library card to download e-books and audiobooks for your trip.

>> Read Next: 15 Must-Have Apps for Van Life

What to Pack for a Baja California Road Trip

A Baja road trip requires a little more preparation and packing than most other road trips . If you are heading down to Mexico with friends, make sure you have all the essentials covered between you. For example, I didn’t personally bring recovery boards or an air compressor, but a few of my travel companions had those items.

This list is tailored to those planning on car camping in Baja and/or traveling in a van, so keep that in mind if you are renting a car or staying in hotels/Airbnbs.

Here are the essentials to pack for a Baja road trip:

• Max Trax – to get unstuck from soft sand beaches. Recovery boards are a must for Mexico!
• Foldable shovel – also essential to dig yourself out if you get stuck.
• Tire deflator – if you plan to spend a lot of time beach camping or offroading, being able to deflate your tires to a set PSI easily and quickly is really convenient.
• Portable air compressor – to be able to refill your tires to the proper PSI when you hit pavement again
• Tow strap – another way to help you get unstuck
• Spare tire – there are lots of bumpy, dirt roads in Baja so make sure your spare is aired up just in case.
• Walkie-talkies – essential if you are caravanning. This is the easiest way to communicate about military checkpoints, road hazards, gas station stops, and just passing the time on long drives! There is limited cell signal on many sections, so walkie-talkies are a must.
• Extra water jug or adapter – there are “agua purificada” water refill stations everywhere in Baja, but if you have a hose fillup (especially one that screws on), you may have a harder time finding places to get water. Either bring an extra water jug , funnel , or find an adapter to make refilling water a breeze.
• Sand-proof mat – sand is inevitable during a Baja road trip, but a sand mat makes it a lot easier to manage.
• Shade structure – my van has an attached awning which came in handy on hot, sunny days. If you don’t have one, we recommend the portable MoonShade since it fits on a variety of vehicles and is budget friendly (use the code “BEARFOOTTHEORY” to get 10% off and find our full review here ).
• Snorkel gear – there are tons of awesome snorkeling spots right from the beaches so I highly recommend bringing your own gear!
• Inflatable SUP or raft – bring your favorite water toys because there are incredible paddling opportunities, especially on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula.
• Prescriptions and personal care items – make sure you bring enough meds to last you the duration of your trip, and maybe extra if you’re not quite sure how long you’ll be staying since not all prescriptions can be filled in Mexico. I’d also recommend bringing along digestive enzymes if you have a sensitive stomach.
• Specialty food – it was hard to find great vegetarian/vegan options at the grocery stores in most towns (outside of major cities like La Paz and Cabo). I recommend stocking up on your favorite dry/non-perishable foods and items such as tofu, shelf-stable oat milk, snacks, plant-based meats/cheeses, etc.
• Pet food – stock up on your favorite brand (and bring extra!) because you will likely not be able to find your favorite brand in Mexico.
• Jerry can – I personally didn’t bring a jerry can for extra fuel and instead made sure to fill up anytime I saw a gas station, but bring one along if you want peace of mind or plan to go serious off-roading.
• Inflatable lantern or string lights – Some beach campsites have adjacent palapas (shade structures) and it’s nice to create a little ambiance for your outdoor living space. I loved having the inflatable MPOWERED Luci Solar Lantern which lit up our entire palapa in the evenings.
• Portable toilet – dispersed camping in Baja is not like dispersed camping in the US. Most of the time you are on exposed beaches or around lots of other campers, and public toilets aren’t as common. In order to keep the beaches clean (no one wants to see a beach overrun with poop and/or toilet paper), I recommend figuring out a #2 bathroom solution, like the foldable Go Anywhere Toilet .
• Portable shower – without easy access to gyms or truck stops, it’s handy to have a way to easily rinse off salt & sand at the end of the day before climbing into bed. The compact Geyser Systems Portable Shower provides hot water to rinse yourself and your gear ( read our full Geyser review here ).

What Not to Pack for A Baja California Road Trip

There are a few items you are not allowed to cross into Mexico with – here are a few of the big ones:

• Produce – fruits, vegetables, meat, or cheese. There are plenty of grocery stores and markets in Baja for fresh produce.
• Guns or ammunition
• Drugs (including CBD)

Camping on Your Baja California Road Trip

As I mentioned previously, I was doing Baja van life and camped for the majority of my time there. There are tons of amazing campsites in Baja, including beach spots, lagoons, RV parks, and more. iOverlander is a great resource for finding both free and paid campsites. Here’s what you need to know about camping in Baja:

Beach Camping in Baja

• Most beaches are public (free), but some require a small fee that goes toward maintenance, trash collection, and (sometimes) pit toilets.
• Average paid price: 200-250 pesos/night ($10-15 USD). Cash only.
• Fees are usually collected in the afternoon, but sometimes there is someone who will collect the fee upon arrival.
• Beware of soft sand – it’s a rite of passage getting stuck in sand in Baja. Be sure to be prepared with recovery boards and a tow strap.

RV Parks and Paid Campgrounds

• Average price for dry camping: 160-600 pesos/night ($8-30 USD). Typically cash only.
• Many RV Parks are first-come, first-serve and do not accept reservations.
• Most charge a different price for hookups vs. dry camping, so be sure to ask for what kind of spot you need.
• Typical amenities include on-site laundry (for a fee), showers, and Wi-Fi (although Wi-Fi is often very slow and unreliable, unless they have Starlink on-site).
• Some RV parks will allow you to shower even if you don’t stay overnight. I paid 50-100 pesos ($2.50-$5) to shower at RV parks, and would reach out via Whatsapp ahead of time to confirm if they allow it.

Planning a trip to Baja? Check out our guides to make the most of your adventure:

• 4-Day La Paz, Mexico Itinerary for Outdoor Adventure
• Best Things to do in Todos Santos
• Best Places to Visit in Baja California Sur

I hope this blog post makes planning your Baja California road trip a breeze! If you have any questions or want to share any Baja tips, please leave a comment below.

Courtney is an avid hiker, yogi, and music lover who left her corporate career in fashion to pursue a life on the road. She's backpacked throughout Europe and Southeast Asia and now is a full-time van lifer, traveling the US & Baja in her converted Ford E150 van. Courtney is Bearfoot Theory’s content manager.

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10 Comments

I would like to drive my van down but stay in a house, apartment, mobile home I can rent. Do you know if that’s possible?

Hi Amy, definitely! There’s plenty of short/mid term rentals available down here, as it’s a very popular “snowbird” destination too.

Great post! Hoping to leave the Central Caribou of British Columbia by end of October. As a 75 year old woman travelling alone in a small truck and canopy plus a tent, this is becoming quite an organizing adventure. May not make it as far as LA Paz but hopefully Santa Rosalia, taking the # 5 route. Thank you so much for this ever so helpful post. Donnette, [email protected]

Hi Donnette, thanks for reading & glad you found this post helpful! Enjoy your Baja adventure… the prep can be a little daunting, but the gorgeous Baja towns and beaches more than make up for it 🙂 Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions.

Thank you for this excellent overview for planning a Baja adventure. This was very helpful!

What is your recommendation on bringing cash in terms of how much? I’m planning to be there from next week until the second week in March. I have a wedding to go to in Cabo the third week in February, any advice on how to handle this for cash/ATM/credit card usage?

Do any of the established campgrounds take credit cards? It’s hard to find info on this aspect – I don’t use Facebook so I’ve had trouble finding blogs with these details thanks!

Hey, I really wanna do this trip but I am on a tight budget. How much would it cost to do the trip in 1.5 to 2 weeks with camping. Obviously I want to see the whales and stay at nice beaches and a few nights at a nice air bnb in la Paz. How much would that be with van rental and camping supply’s? (I plan on renting a van in Mexico for cheaper insurance)

Thank you so much. This is too useful

Thank you for your posting and sharing your experience. One question could I do it with my well equipped Honda Civic and a tent with canopy for shade?

This was written by a Bearfoot Theory contributor, and I have not done it myself. But my understanding is that you can do it in 2wd. You’ll just have to make sure you stick to more well-traveled paths. With that said, I’d do some extra research to see what other people say.

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Lita of the Pack

US National Parks, Van Life & Travel Tips!

in Baja , Itinerary , Van Life · March 28, 2023

The Perfect Baja California Itinerary

G ray whales leaping out of the ocean, kaleidoscope sunsets filling the sky, camping on the beach 💫, and warm sunshine, can you imagine a better winter destination? Mexico’s Baja peninsula offers all of the above and so much more. So, read on to find the ultimate Baja California itinerary!

Baja California is separated into two parts: Baja California Norte & Sur . While the North part is mostly rugged and untouched, the south is full of vibrant beaches and life. Driving through the peninsula you’ll be amazed at the stunning scenery and fun destinations within.

My husband and I have spent the cold winter months exploring the coastal towns of Baja California twice now. Along the way, we got to swim with whale sharks, snorkel with rays, and eat tons of tacos 🌮. It was one of the best experiences we ever had, and we completely fell in love with Baja.

Every winter, tons of RVs and van lifers 🚐 head down from the US to make the migration down to Baja. It is a haven for nomads and explorers. Read below for my complete itinerary including where to stop and stay in the peninsula!

You Might Also Like These Posts:

• 7 Best Things to do in Todos Santos
• 5 Ways to Prep for Van Life in Baja Mexico
• Visiting Balandra Beach: Mexico’s Most Beautiful Beach

Table of Contents

Baja California Road Trip Details

When to go on a baja california road trip.

Baja California is a fantastic place to road trip in the cooler months in the US. You can drive all the way from San Diego to Cabo and chase the sunshine ☀️ along the way. The best months to drive Baja are the months from December through the beginning of April.

Once the late spring comes around, temperatures start to warm up 🌡 and it gets too hot to camp. But, in the winter it’s perfect to spend days under the warm sun, while the night air still gets cool. It’s a paradise for road trippers and campers alike.

Things to Know Before Driving Baja California

☀️The biggest rule of road tripping Baja California is to only drive during the day. Do not drive after dark, because there are many potholes, cows, and police.

⛽️ There are many stretches of remote road without anything around. Make sure to fill up on gas whenever you get the chance.

🛣 Many of the roads in Baja besides the highway are not paved. You should take them slow because they can be very rough.

🐮 Watch out for cows that cross the road at all times of day. They are often munching on brush that is near the road.

🚛 There are a lot of trucks that drive on the highways in Baja. They will often pull over slightly to the side of the road so that you can pass them . Cars pass other cars even when there are double lines and it’s not technically permitted.

🗺 Download maps of the road before you start driving. There are plenty of areas where you will not have any service and you do not want to get lost on the streets of Baja.

🪖 You will have to pass through military checkpoints along the drive. Sometimes they will just wave you through. Other times, they’ll ask you questions about your trip and if you are in an RV or van, they may ask to search it.

⚠️ I’m not saying you should speed, but many drivers on the road will drive far faster than the speed limit. Also, remember that all speeds are in Kilometers per hour.

🚨 If you do ever get pulled over, then make sure to ask the police to take you to the police station. They often just want some cash, but will let you go if you insist on going to the station.

Baja California Itinerary

San Felipe is one of the few bustling towns in Baja California Norte. This quaint coastal town sits on the Sea of Cortes on the Eastern side of the peninsula. There are a lot of great RV parks with palapas to enjoy sunrises over the ocean and slow down for a bit.

This is one of the areas in Baja where the desert meets the sea . If you stay here, you’ll be able to drive through giant cacti 🌵, ride over large sand dunes, or enjoy the low tides of the sea. It’s a great place to relax and camp on the beach!

Things to do in San Felipe:

• Eat Fresh Fish Tacos
• Walk down El Malecon (the boardwalk)
• Take an ATV Tour on the Sand Dunes
• Sunbathe on the Beach
• Visit the Huge Cacti at Valley of the Giants
• Soak in the Puertecitos Hot Spring s

How Long to Stay : 1-4 days

Where to Camp in San Felipe:

• Pete’s Camp ($$) – showers, toilets
• Victor’s RV Camp ($$) – hot showers, toilets, restaurant

Guerrero Negro

Guerrero Negro sits right on the line between Baja California Norte & Sur. It is one of the only places in the area to stop, but there are many reasons to visit this destination. Take tours to the salt flats or go on the best whale tour of all.

Every year gray whales complete an annual migration from the Arctic to the Baja lagoons. One of the places you can get up close to these beautiful whales 🐳 is Ojo de Liebre just outside of Guerrero Negro. This is where the mother whales have their calves and teach them important life skills. Go on an unforgettable tour here!

Things to do in Guerrero Negro:

• Go Whale Watching in Ojo de Liebre
• Visit the Salt Mine & Salt Flats
• Ride ATVS on the Sand Dunes
• Get Baja’s best Tacos at Tacos el Muelle

How Long to Stay : 1-2 days

Where to Camp in Guerrero Negro:

• Malarrimo RV Park ($$) – toilets, shower
• Mario’s ($$) – toilets, hot shower
• Sand Dunes (Free)

Mulege is a quieter area in Baja, but it’s proximity to the Bahia de Concepcion beaches means it’s a popular stop through. Stroll through the cute town streets, admire the mangroves that line the river, and enjoy some great tacos in the small restaurants. So, add this in to your Baja California itinerary for a place to regroup.

Things to Do in Mulege:

• Visit Faro de Mulege
• Admire the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege
• Meander through Downtown Mulege

Where to Stay in Mulege

• Don Chanos RV Park ($$) – showers, toilets, slow wifi, restaurant

Bahia de Concepcion

Imagine a place where you can sleep on the beach with brilliant blue waters 💙 and rugged mountains as your backyard. There’s a stretch of beaches along this bay in Baja California Sur where you can relax in solitude . Vibrant sunrises light up the sky in the morning and bioluminescence makes the water glow at certain times of year.

You can camp at these beaches for the low price of just $10 a day , which will get you a prime spot on the beach. Although, it’s primitive camping so there are no facilities. But it’s worth it when locals come by during the day to sell delicious locally made food, firewood, and souvenirs. You can kayak 🚣‍♂️ and paddle through the bay while dolphins swim only a few feet away or snorkel to see the abundant sea life. It’s one of the places that people say make them fall in love with Baja.

Things to do at Bahia de Concepcion

• Camp on the beach at Playa Santispac, Playa Los Cocos, Playa El Requeson, Playa El Coyote, or Playa el Burro
• Paddleboard and Kayak in the Bay
• See the Bioluminescence

How Long to Stay : 4 days-2 weeks

Where to Camp in Bahia de Concepcion:

• Playa Los Cocos ($)
• Playa Santispac ($)
• Playa El Requeson ($)
• Playa El Burro ($)
• Playa El Coyote ($)

Is your trip insured? ⭐️

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Loreto was the first city established back in the colonial days. Which means, there is plenty of history within the city’s confines. If you’re a fan of history, then you can learn more about the colonial architecture and buildings ⛪️ from the old days.

History isn’t the only thing that Loreto has to offer. There are also fantastic beaches , a plethora of fun tours, and delicious food to eat. It’s a lovely city to visit for a few days on your Baja California itinerary!

Things to do in Loreto:

• Walk on the Loreto Malecón
• Take a Boat Tour to Isla Coronado
• Visit Mission of Our Old Lady of Loreto
• Go on a Blue Whale Watching Tour
• Stroll Through Town
• Get Smoothies at Veganautas

How Long to Stay : 2-5 days

Where to Stay in Loreto

• Romanita RV Park ($$) – showers, toilets
• El Moro RV ($$) – showers, toilets
• Juncalito Beach (Free)
• Agua Verde (Free)

La Paz is one of the larger cities in the entire Baja peninsula. Which means that there are plenty of ways to spend your time! La Paz is well known for having great tours in the Gulf of California to get up close with sea life. Scuba divers, snorkelers 🤿, and fisherman flock to this great vacation destination.

There are also stunning beaches just outside of La Paz including Playa Tecolote and Balandra Beach 🏝. You can spend a few days relaxing on the beach and enjoying the gorgeous blue waters. At night, you can head into town for great restaurants and mezcal spots.

Things to Do in La Paz:

• Go on a Whale Shark Tour in Winter
• Spend a Day at Balandra Beach
• Visit Playa Tecolote
• Walk El Malecón
• Swim with Sea Lions on a tour to Isla Espiritu
• Kayak in Sea of Cortez

How Long to Stay : 1-2 weeks

Where to Stay in La Paz:

• Playa Tecolote (Free)
• Campestre Maranatha ($$) – Hot showers, dump station, toilets, cafe

Todos Santos

Todos Santos is a must for your Baja California itinerary! You’ll fall in love with the colorful streets, adorable restaurants, and fantastic beaches. This small town packs a large punch.

Todos Santos is growing in popularity, with more people going on day trips from Cabo to explore this great town. Whales jump out of the sea, consistent waves hit the shore, and well-curated boutiques line the streets. It’s no wonder It’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay forever 🥰.

Things to do In Todos Santos:

• Surf at Los Cerritos Beach
• Whale Watch from Shore
• Hike to Punta Lobos
• Dine at the delicious local restaurants
• Shop downtown
• See Turtles get released at Playa Los Tortugas

How Long to Stay : 3 days-2 weeks

Where to Stay in Todos Santos:

• San Pedrito Beach (Free)
• Los Cerritos ($) – toilets
• El Litro RV Park ($$) – showers, toilets
• West Cape Beach (Free)

Cabo may be the most well-known and most visited areas on the Baja peninsula. But what you may not know, is there are actually two areas in Cabo: Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Cabo San Lucas is the more touristy area with big chains and tours, while San Jose del Cabo is a cuter area with good restaurants 🥘 and shopping.

Despite the crowds, this area is still a fun area to explore! Go on one of the plethora of tours to get out in the water and get close to sea life 🐙. There are also great places to stay including nice airbnbs and beaches with free camping. Don’t forget to go out and experience the nightlife there!

Things to Do in Cabo

• Take a Tour to the Arch
• Go on a whale watching tour
• Shop in San Jose del Cabo
• Horseback ride on the beach
• Spend a day at the beautiful beaches

Where to Camp in Cabo:

• Playa Santa Maria (Free)
• Playa El Tule (Free) – pit toilets
• Playa Costa Azul (Free)

If you are looking to escape the noise of Cabo and stay on some of the most beautiful beaches, then you can drive 45 minutes away to La Fortuna. This area is a wonderful place to spend a few days if you just want to slow down and enjoy the water or go surfing.

During our last winter to Baja, we spent 2 weeks in La Fortuna. We had the beach all to ourself and every day we saw tons of whales jumping out of the ocean. It was truly one of my favorite places to camp in the van!

Things to Do in La Fortuna

• Go Kiteboarding
• Grab a bite at Zai Sushi
• Surf at Nine Palms
• Take a surfing lesson

How Long to Stay : 2 days-2 weeks

Where to Camp in La Fortuna

• Downtown La Fortuna
• Boca de Las Palmas
• Playa de Argo

Los Barriles

Visit this quiet coastal town on the East coast of Baja California Sur. In this sleepy town, you’ll find calm waters to swim in with gorgeous sunsets 🌅 that will blow you away. Travel below the water to see abundant sea life in this peaceful area.

You can make Los Barriles your home base while you explore incredible natural destinations. Drive 15 minutes 🚗 from Los Barriles to Cabo Pulmo National Park to snorkel in one of the liveliest and colorful reefs. Continue another 15 minutes and you’ll make it to the natural reserve with beautiful waterfalls and hot springs.

Things to do in Los Barriles:

• Soak in the Santa Rita Hot Springs
• Swim at the Gorgeous Cañon de la Zorra
• Go Snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo National Park
• ATV in the sand dunes

How Long to Stay : 2-7 days

Where to Camp in Los Barriles:

• Cañon de la Zorra ($)
• Baja Sunrise RV Park ($$) – full hook-up, toilet, shower
• Beach next to Baja Sunrise (Free)

La Ventana is one of the best kiteboarding destinations in the entire world! Because of the way the mountains extend out into the water it gets very windy 💨, but you always get blown back to the shores of the beach.

But even if you aren’t a kiteboarder 🪁 there are plenty of reasons to visit this small town. It has beautiful beaches to spend hours snorkeling and relaxing. One of the beaches, Playa Agua Caliente, even has hot springs in the tidal waters right by the beach. It’s one of the most unique sites to see . When you’re done exploring, you can visit the great restaurants in the area.

Things to do at La Ventana:

• Take a Kiteboarding Lesson
• Soak in the Natural Hot Springs at Playa Agua Caliente
• Spend a day on the beach
• Eat at La Tuna BCS

Where to Camp in La Ventana

• El Sargento Campground ($$) – showers, restaurant, toilets
• Beach Access #1 (Free)
• Hot Spring Beach Camping (Free)

Although this town feels like a mix of Mexico and the US, it’s still a great place to stop on your Baja road trip. Because it’s just two hours from San Diego, it’s a popular destination for Californians that are seeking some sunshine. There are great beaches and plenty of whales that swim past the coastline.

Things to do in Ensenada

• See the Waves at La Bufadora
• Spend a day at El Salto Canyon & Waterfall
• Learn new things at Caracas Science Museum
• Swim with Great White Sharks at Guadalupe Island

Where to Camp in Ensenada:

• Corona Beach RV Park ($$) – toilets, cold showers
• Campo #5 ($) – toilets
• Playa Salamando ($$) – showers, toilets

Valle de Guadalupe

Did you know that Mexico has wine country 🍷? Valle de Guadalupe is a stunning area with a wonderful wine scene. Just an hour from the border, the wineries here are a growing destination for Americans and Mexicans alike. Although this area is a bit more expensive, it’s still much lower than US prices.

Spend a weekend winery hopping through this resplendent valley and you’ll be enamored 💕. Along the way, you will see rolling hills, rugged mountains, and be able to eat some of the very best food in the entire Baja peninsula!

Things to Do in Valle de Guadalupe

• Visit the amazing wineries like Bruma Winery, L.A. Cetto, and Monte Xanic
• Eat at the incredible restaurants
• Go on a hot air balloon ride over the valley

How Long to Stay : 2-4 days

Where to Stay in Valle de Guadalupe:

• El Valle RV Park ($$) – showers, toilets
• L.A. Cetto (Free if you visit there for the winery)

Final Thoughts

Spending your winter in Baja is one of the best things you can do ! You will fall in love with the serene coastal towns, the mouthwatering tacos, and the wild sea life. There is so much to do that you will want to stay for months at a time. So, add these spots to your Baja California Itinerary!

Let me know in the comments if you enjoy this itinerary!

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About Lita Talisman

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Reader Interactions

April 2, 2023 at 8:11 pm

Such an in-depth post!! Love the water color in all these pics 😍 Making me want to go!

April 4, 2023 at 4:26 pm

Aww thank you! The water in Baja is unbelievable!

November 4, 2023 at 1:13 pm

Love all your info – thank you! Getting me excited for our trip! Do you have any recommendations / guidance on where / how to hire the RV / car?

November 6, 2023 at 3:15 pm

So, I think that the best places to rent these for Baja are Sampa Explore Van Baja or Peace Vans! Let me know if any of those workout for you!

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This Rare Earth

A travel resource for the adventurous and often-solo female

A Baja California Road Trip Guide: Baja Sur Mexico

Blog , Mexico , North America , Solo Travel / March 9, 2021 by Monica / 6 Comments

There isn’t anything quite like cruising down the desert roads of Baja Sur, Mexico. Glimmering blue waters in the Sea of Cortez and tall prickly cacti lining the roads and hillsides. A Baja California Road Trip is truly a magical experience! Read on for the most beautiful stops to make your Baja road trip unforgettable.

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Table of Contents

Why a Baja Road Trip?

It seems like the Caribbean side of Mexico is getting all the buzz these days. And, destinations like Cancun and Tulum in the Yucatan Peninsula are certainly beautiful – I can’t argue that!

But for me, there is just something so breathtaking about the tropical desert landscape of Baja. Perhaps it’s because I’ve lived in or near the deserts of California and Arizona for years and years. The desert has always been my favorite climate. The tall prickly cacti, the rugged and picturesque mountains, and even the incredible heat are all at the top of my list.

But don’t let all of my cacti-reminiscing fool you – Baja Sur also has some of the most stunning ocean vistas in Mexico. On my Baja California road trip, there were so many lovely places that surprised me – from shallow blue bays to pristine natural hot springs.

Baja California has so much more to offer than it’s reputation as a Spring Break destination implies. And, the best way to experience everything is to road trip Baja California at your own pace.

A Baja California Road Trip: The Best Stops in Baja Sur

Where To Start Your Baja Sur Road Trip

Though I do highly recommend a road trip through the entire Baja Peninsula, I understand that not everyone may have the time or interest to invest in that. This Baja Sur road trip can be done in as little as one week, or stretched into two weeks or more if you really want to take your time and enjoy some slow travel .

So, for the purposes of discovering Baja Sur specifically, I highly recommend flying into the Los Cabos Airport (SJD) . This will take you to the southernmost tip of the Baja Peninsula, where the world famous beaches of the Sea of Cortes are located.

Please note that the Baja road trip route referenced here my include some toll roads. Carry pesos on you at all times to be safe.

Stop #1: Los Cabos

Los Cabos is an area that contains two separate municipalities – Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Cabo San Lucas is a bit more loud and crowded, with tons of walkable shops and restaurants. San Jose del Cabo, on the other hand, is a bit more quiet and filled with locals, interesting architecture and art.

Click here for my in depth comparison of of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo . They are very different, so depending on your personality, you will definitely prefer one over the other!

Whichever you choose, plan to spend at least two or three nights in the Los Cabos area. And, regardless of where you lay your head at night, you should absolutely check out both towns.

After enjoying the best of Cabo, plan to wake early on your day of departure. Allow yourself two hours on the road to reach your next destination:

Stop #2: Cabo Pulmo National park

Cabo Pulmo National Park is about two hours northeast of the Los Cabos area (depending on your exact starting point). The park opens at 8am daily, and I highly recommend arriving first thing!

You’ll get to experience the best of Cabo Pulmo without the heat or crowds. Plus, this will be one of the most picturesque ways to stretch your legs along the way.

This marine park covers over 17,000 acres and is a protected area in Baja Sur. If you are interested in diving, snorkeling, whale-watching, or even just enjoying an incredibly beautiful and laid-back beach setting, then Cabo Pulmo is for you.

It is often said to have the best snorkeling and diving in all of Baja, and features the only coral reef in the Sea of Cortez. I highly recommend spending at least half a day here. The park closes at 5 or 5:30pm depending on the day, so you can stay the entire day as well. Tours can be booked below for various marine activities that you won’t soon forget!

You can absolutely book accommodations on the ocean near Cabo Pulmo National Park. I personally drove one hour inland to the tiny town of Santiago. I wanted to set myself up for several early days at my next mountainous region:

🗺️ Planning Your Next Big Trip? 🗺️

This Rare Earth now offers Custom Itinerary Services for destinations across the world! If you are feeling overwhelmed while planning your next big trip, or don’t know where to start, I can likely help. Fill out the form below to learn how we can create a fully customized itinerary tailored to your unique travel preferences and needs!

Stop #3: The Sierra de la Laguna Mountains

The Sierra de la Laguna mountains are incredibly picturesque. These mountains are compiled of white jagged rocks – a very different terrain than I am used to in the American Southwest.

The town of Santiago is quite literally an oasis, and these mountains showcase exactly why. Crystal clear and cool spring water flows into various lagoons between the mountain peaks. Yes, these are incredible for quick dips in the hot desert sun. But even more of a surprise than the crystal springs of the Baja desert are the hot springs that pool just next to them.

The Santa Rita hot springs are a natural phenomenon and they – like the entire Sierra de la Laguna – are a UNESCO protected biosphere reserve. These springs are so refreshing and a completely unexpected sight in the deserts of Baja. You can quite literally hop from the very hot water of the springs into the refreshingly cool stream next door.

Hiking in Sierra de la Laguna, I saw not one other soul on the rocks. I have an entire post on visiting the Santa Rita Hot Springs that will help you plan the details. This was the biggest highlight of my most recent trip to Baja, so I highly suggest adding this to the list!

Depending on how tired you are, you can spend another night in Santiago, or, drive on to the next location.

Stop #4: La Paz

Two hours north, and headed back to the eastern shore, is La Paz, Mexico. I used La Paz as a sort of rest-stop after a week or so of non-stop hiking and exploring. I booked a hotel right on the water and really made use of the small patch of sand and cheerful pool area.

Honestly it was the perfect way to decompress, play catch up, and relax. Even though its a city, it’s a fairly calm area (“La Paz” means “peace” so there ya go) nestled between mountains and long stretched of rugged land and cacti.

After a full day of La Paz, I was ready to explore the surrounding areas.

Stop #5: Balandra Bay

This hidden gem is such a stunning location that I wrote an entire post about exploring Balandra Bay while you[re visiting La Paz.

The shades of blue are unbelievably bright, made even more drastic by the dry brown earth and tall cacti that surround it. It takes a roughly 30 minute drive from the outskirts of La Paz to reach here, and the road winds through beautiful mountains.

The bay itself is quite shallow in many areas, with limited beach parking and frankly limited beach spots to choose from. The bay is sheltered between two mountains, and climbing those mountains will give such a stunning view of the entire bay that it just can’t be missed.

I stayed a total of four days in the La Paz area and explored Balandra Bay on two of the four days. I spent all nights in the same hotel until I was ready to circle back south.

Stop #6: Small Towns on the Pacific Side of Baja

When it was time for me to head back down toward Los Cabos, I wanted to drive through new terrain. I chose to drive down the Pacific side of the peninsula.

Along the way, I stopped at a number of small towns and villages that I passed during the two hour drive south. I also found some picturesque beaches with cacti leading right up to the sand that I thought were incredible.

Yes, I get it – I’m not giving you an exact spot to stop and visit. But that’s part of the fun of road trips. Stopping wherever your heart desires and taking time to see everything along the way.

Stop #7: Back in Cabo

Assuming that you are flying out of Mexico from Cabo, you’ll complete your circle right back where you started. This is an excellent opportunity to visit any Cabo sights that you didn’t see on the first round. Or, if you have time, enjoy a few more days in paradise on the beach.

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Can You Road Trip Baja California as a Solo Female?

I have road tripped multiple areas in Mexico as a solo female. I would say a solid 98% of the time, everything went smoothly. I felt safe at all times, even in deserted areas. Other drivers were courteous. Maps were relatively accurate.

So what snags did I hit? Actually, none in Baja Sur. I have had a few interesting experiences when previously renting a car in Mexico , but none in Baja Sur.

Every destination and route listed here are ones that I personally drove, completely solo, on my own Baja California road trip.

Take normal precautions, such as:

• make sure your gas tank is full before entering remote areas.
• download offline maps to your phone and/or bring a paper map.
• avoid driving in isolated areas late at night.
• make sure your phone has reception or get a local SIM card for emergencies.

And there you have it! An incredible Baja Sur road trip guide that will cover so many terrains – mountains, beaches, deserts. It will also cover two protected nature areas that are just incredible to see in person.

This road trip through Baja will prove to you what an awesome area the Baja Peninsula truly is.

Is there anything else you’d like to know about Baja? Let me know below!

• Cabo San Lucas vs San Jose del Cabo Travel: Which Is Better?
• Cancun vs Cabo: Which is Better, Los Cabos or Cancun?
• 10 Tips for Visiting Joshua Tree National Park
• The Ultimate Guide to Visiting El Matador Beach, Malibu
• The Perfect Day Trip to Malibu: A One Day Itinerary [2024]

About Monica

Monica has been a solo female world traveler for over 15 years. She is an expert on outdoor adventures, solo female travel, and off the beaten path destinations. She is the founder of This Rare Earth and is a firm believer that the world is not as scary as the media might have you think! Learn more about her here . Connect with her on Instagram .

Reader Interactions

June 15, 2021 at 7:41 am

Wonderful post! My husband and I are planning to do something like this over Christmas/ New Years and we are avid divers and hikers. Did you stay in boutique hotels or Airbnb’s? Thank you very much!

June 15, 2021 at 9:33 am

Thank you so much Edyta! You are going to LOVE road tripping here – I highly recommend it for hikers / divers. I stayed in both local hotels and Airbnb’s.

In Santiago, for instance, there were no online reservations; I just showed up and got a room. Whereas in La Paz, it was easy to book ahead. You are going to really enjoy this! As divers / hikers I highly recommend Balandra Bay, Cabo Pulmo, and Sierra de la Laguna! 🙂 Please let me know how it goes!

January 12, 2022 at 11:09 pm

Can you tell me the name of your hotel in La Paz? Thank you, Carole

January 14, 2022 at 5:50 pm

It was called City Express La Paz. It was perfect for me because – despite the name – it was not technically in the city center. It was right on the Melecon and about midway between the city and the mountains. I don’t recall what type of room I had, but it was very clean and comfortable! Small stretch of beach, lovely pool, etc.

Hope that helps! -Monica 🙂

September 3, 2022 at 6:05 pm

hi! can you give me any tips for car rental companies? I live in Mexico, so I speak Spanish and have a license from there and an overseas license. But not sure which companies are better options? I hope to spend 1-2 weeks in late October in this area

September 5, 2022 at 10:26 am

I’ve used multiple different companies in the past, but typically I book through this website and – most recently I hired a car through MEX. I remember that they did not have a great rating, but I took a chance anyway and had no issues. Just remember to take a video of the car before you drive off the lot so that you have evidence of the condition before you used it! Also, know that ALL car companies here will charge you for mandatory insurance, which in my experience is not noted in the quoted price.

Have a great trip – in two weeks you will get to see so much of this awesome area! One of my absolute favorites. 🙂 Monica

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Exploring Northern Baja: Road Trip through Baja Norte

By: Author Rob Taylor

Posted on Published: May 18, 2023  - Last updated: September 16, 2023

When you say Baja California, I think most people are instantly going to think “Off-roading and military car inspections…”  Well, yes, that’s totally possible and I’m sure you’ll come across that, but we’ve had some pretty incredible Baja road trips, both in Northern Baja and Baja California Sur. The Baja is one of our favorite Mexican destinations !

Doing a road trip through Northern Baja California, Mexico is a really fun and interesting option for either family travel or adventurous adults.  A drive through Northern Baja is all about the rugged coast and beautiful valleys, and if you continue south, a Baja California Sur road trip gives you picturesque towns and amazing snorkeling experiences.

Planning a Northern Baja Road Trip

This road trip plan takes you from Tijuana to Bahia de Los Angeles. It includes wine country, lots of great food and beach time, and whale watching. A less touristy experience than Baja California Sur, you’ll need to speak and understand Spanish better than you might expect. English is not widely spoken, so exercise your language skills and patience as you explore.

Much of Baja California is undeveloped or sparsely so. With that, there aren’t a ton of major sites and famous towns, but you get the freedom of finding quiet beaches and very small, restaurants or roadside kitchens for meals. You’ll love it.

Driving in the rural areas of Baja California, you can expect to come across military checkpoints from time to time. Be sure you have your passports and that you’ve registered with a tourist card once you’ve crossed the border into Mexico. If you flew in, you already have filled out the form and should have the tourist card on your person at all times.

Northern Baja Road Trip Itinerary

This Baja road trip itinerary is a mix of beach time and seeing the rugged, less visited parts of Baja California, Mexico. Be sure you are well stocked with water, sunblock, and roadside assistance supplies. This is one of the most fun and adventurous drives in North America, but also it can be a simple disaster if you’re not smart about it.

Start Your Baja Norte Road Trip: Tijuana to Rosarito

Fly into Tijuana (TIJ) or San Diego (SAN) to begin. Tijuana is actually a huge city, so if you want to spend a day exploring, do so, otherwise head south to be ready to start the Baja California road trip first thing in the morning. For a more scenic drive, but slower, head west to Highway Mexico 1D and make stops along the way at the many viewpoints and beaches. 

• Sleep in:   Rosarito – 1 night is good

Day 2: Rosarito to Ensenada

Start your Baja road trip by walking on the beach. This is always a good idea, particularly since this itinerary has a fair amount of time inland. After the beach, explore the town a bit, including tequila tasting and looking for the perfect tin framed mirror to bring home. Head south along the coast, stopping in Puerto Nuevo for lunch and more beach time. End your drive in Ensenada, a large town with a peaceful vibe. Dinner just off the Malecon finishes the day. 

• Sleep in:  Ensenada – 1 or 2 nights is good

Day 3: Northern Baja Coast

Walk through downtown to find breakfast before visiting the Riviera de Ensenada and Museo Histiorico Regional. Take a peek inside the gorgeous cathedral and then have a torta for lunch. If you like, there is wine tasting locally as well, as the Valle de Guadalupe wine region is not too far away.

When you’re ready, head south visiting La Bufadora (the blowhole) and supporting the locals selling their wares. Continue on your journey towards Santo Tomas, where you’ll head west to the coast. The road may be a bit rough, so be prepared. Stop at any beach or rocky point that suits you, ending your day in a small town on the Pacific.

• Sleep in: Erendira or San Vicente – 1 night is good

Day 4: the Remote Costa Pacifica and Punta Mazo

Enjoy a lazy morning or hike in the hills between Erendira and San Vicente. Relax at the beach or head out fishing with a local guide. By late morning, you should be on the road again heading towards Rancho Los Pinos to the south. Here you’ll have more time to relax, snorkel or fish, and just enjoy the small town Mexican culture.

On your way, make stops at Reserva Natural Punta Mazo for coastal volcanoes (dormant) and the beautiful estuary at the Humedales de San Quintin. This is a good place for insect repellant if you’re kayaking or hiking.

This part of your Baja California road trip is starting to become very remote. You will find mini-supers and Pemex as you go, but keep a close eye on your fuel and water levels, as well as the condition of your vehicle. There are many more services and better roads now than the first time we did this road trip, but it’s still not perfect, so be wise.

• Sleep in:  Rancho Los Pinos or San Quintin – 1 night is good

Day 5: the Mountains of Baja California

Today the drive takes you across the desert and mountains of Baja California. There is a lot of driving to do (5.5 hours), but you can easily break it up with stops to enjoy the mountains, including a few roadside hikes. SAFETY FIRST.

Be sure you are well stocked with water and snacks, and that you get gas before heading away from the beach. Fill up in El Rosario and then again in San Antonio de las Minas. There are many small cafes and food stands along the drive, so getting lunch to go is easy. When you arrive in Bahia de los Angeles you can relax. You’ll be here for a few days. 

• Sleep in:   Bahia de los Angeles – at least two nights is recommended

Day 6: the Sea of Cortez

Explore the coves and beaches of Bahia de los Angeles. If you like, book a boat trip over to any of the small islands just offshore or to Punta El Pescador. If the season is right, opportunities for swimming with whale sharks and sea lions are available. The Sea of Cortez is incredible for snorkeling and diving, so enjoy! 

Note: if you’re a diver and traveling with your own gear, you can hire a boat out of Bahia de los Angeles to explore the small islands in this part of the Sea of Cortez.

Day 6: Puertecitos and Colorful San Filipe

Another day to enjoy the Sea of Cortez!  Make lots of stops along the way as you head north to San Felipe.  Stop for lunch and beach time in Puertecitos, or check out the hot spring by the beach (paid admission). This is a very rural area with a small population, so take advantage of the gas stations and food options as they come up. When you arrive in San Felipe, walk the Malecon and enjoy the town. There are several nice hotels to choose from and plenty of dining. 

• Sleep in:   San Felipe – 1 or 2 days here is great

Day 8:  Baja California Wine County

You have two choices for today. You can either spend one more day in San Felipe playing in the Sea of Cortez and then drive all the way back to Tijuana tomorrow, or you can head to Valle de Guadaloupe to have a day touring Baja California wine country. With more than 20 wineries, vineyards and tasting rooms, you can have a very different sort of wine tasting experience than you might have in Temecula or Napa. 

• Sleep in:   Guadaloupe or Ensenada

Ending your Baja Road Trip

Drive back to either Tijuana or San Diego to round out your Baja California road trip. You could also head east to explore the eastern side of the Sea of Cortez, including Golfo de Santa Clara and Puerto Peñasco. Whichever way you go, you’ll no doubt want to return to Baja California for another road trip soon!

Need to Know for a Baja California Road Trip

It’s important to note that whether you’re flying into Tijuana, Baja California (TIJ) or San Diego, USA you’ll need a passport for this adventure. If you’re driving across the border into Mexico a Passport Card or Nexus card may be acceptable, but if you’re flying you’ll need an actual passport.

Once in Mexico you’ll also need to have a tourist card, which is usually completed when customs forms are done, flying or driving. Keep these things on you in the event you are stopped, by the police or military. Typically being stopped is no concern and it’s quick, but just always act in safety and honesty just in case.

When you’re packing for a Baja road trip , be sure you have the appropriate clothes and shoes, means cool and breathable clothing, and shoes that are good for beaches and/or hiking. Baja California has very diverse activities depending on where you spend the majority of your time, so pack smart. Also, SUNSCREEN and hats are so important.

More Fun Mexico Road Trips to Plan

We love exploring Mexico beyond the cruise ports and tourist resorts. It’s much more safe than its reputation, and just like with traveling within the United States, if you’re going someplace sketchy, you should expect sketchy behavior. Don’t do foolish things and drive safely and you should have a great trip, whether you’re here in Northern Baja or over on the Yucatan.

Here are a few more ideas for travel in Mexico, including some really fun, beautiful road trips:

• Colorful Yucatan Road Trip
• Baja California Sur Road Trip
• Snorkeling Around Los Cabos
• Cenotes to Explore
• Mayan Ruins around the Yucatan
• Isla Holbox – a Gorgeous Caribbean Island

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave us a comment or send us a note . We’re always happy to help with travel planning!

Baja Mexico: Beautiful Stops on the Ultimate Peninsula Road Trip

Wednesday 27th of September 2023

[…] Read More: Exploring Northern Baja: Road Trip through Baja Norte […]

• Mexico City
• Copper Canyon
• Guadalajara
• San Cristóbal de las Casas
• San Miguel de Allende
• 5-Day Mexico City Itinerary
• 10-Day Baja California Road Trip
• 10-Day Chiapas Road Trip
• 10-Day Copper Canyon by Train
• 10-Day Guanajuato Road Trip
• 10-Day Yucatan Road Trip
• 10-Day Oaxaca Road Trip
• Cozumel Island
• Isla Mujeres
• Holbox Island
• Playa del Carmen
• Punta Allen
• Puerto Escondido
• Hot Springs
• Mayan Ruins
• Mountains and Valleys
• Wildlife Experiences
• Best Mexican Foods
• Best Mexican Movies
• Best Books about Mexico
• Mexican Artists
• Mexico Fun Facts
• Mexico Historical Facts
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Baja Road Trip: 10-Day Baja California Sur Itinerary

• by Nellie Huang

Experience the best of Baja California Sur with this 10-day Baja road trip that’ll take you from glitzy Cabo San Lucas to the pristine beaches in the Sea of Cortez.

Like a giant serpent jutting out into the wildlife-rich Sea of Cortez, Baja California is a stunning peninsula blessed with some of the wildest and most rugged landscapes in Mexico. Baja California Sur (the southern half of the peninsula), in particular, is covered in huge swathes of cacti-studded desert, backdropped by dramatic mountains and ringed with some of the most pristine beaches in Mexico. 

We recently did an epic Baja California Sur road trip, and packed in lots of wildlife experiences, outdoorsy hikes, and beach time. With just 10 days in Baja California, we zigzagged across the peninsula, starting from the hedonistic tourism hub of Los Cabos to the colonial town of Loreto.

I’m sharing my 10-day Baja California Sur itinerary below with you, to help you plan your own adventures! I have included details on where to stay and eat along the way as well as safety and driving tips.

Table of Contents

How to Get to Baja California Sur

Getting around baja california, do you need a 4wd for this baja california road trip, take a boat trip, go beach-hopping, best beaches in cabo san lucas, have dinner at wachinango’s, walk the marina, where to stay in los cabos, wander around san jose del cabo, do the art walk san jose cabo, brunch at flora farms,  dinner at sunset monalisa , explore the magic town, release baby turtles on the beach, dinner oystera or vino park, where to stay in todos santos, walk the malecón, visit the museum of whales, eat the freshest seafood, where to stay in la paz, tips for visiting balandra bay, hop over to tecolote beach , book a day trip, drive to puerto san carlos, dinner at mariscos el tiburón, where to stay in san carlos, book a whale tour , drive to loreto, where to stay in loreto, visit the loreto mission, hike in tabor canyon, stroll along the malecón, see the rare blue whales, visit isla coronado, baja california itinerary day 10: los cabos, best time to visit baja california, is it safe to visit baja california, driving tips in baja california, baja road trip tips, baja road trip itinerary & guide.

The main gateway to Baja California Sur is Los Cabos International Airport (SJD), located just by San Jose del Cabo. The airport serves many cities in the US, including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Houston, Dallas, Denver, Seattle, Chicago and New York.

Flights are pretty affordable from the US. Direct flights from Los Angeles to Los Cabos cost around US$300 return while flights from New York to Los Cabos cost around $400 return. 

You can also drive to Baja California from the US; but you’ll need to have time to first cross the border, explore the northern part of Baja California (Tijuana, Mexicali and Valle de Guadalupe) before you reach Baja California Sur.

NOTE : For this Baja California Sur road trip, we did a loop, starting from and ending at Los Cabos Airport. If you have limited time, you can also choose to fly into Los Cabos and fly out from Loreto Airport.

There’s no better way to explore Baja California Sur than on a road trip – the remoteness of it all makes it best explored on your own set of wheels. Renting a car will get you out to the most rugged corners, empty beaches and hidden hot springs . The distances aren’t too long and driving is easy, plus you’ll get to experience some off-road adventures while driving on certain dusty, unpaved roads.

For all my car rentals in Mexico, I always book with Discover Cars as they offer the best prices and excellent customer service. An economy rental car with pickup/dropoff at Los Cabos Airport costs only $150 for a whole week, which is less than $21 a day . You will need to pay extra for insurance and add-ons, but that’s a really decent price to pay.

Note that if you intend to fly into Los Cabos and out from Loreto Airport, you will need to book a 1-way car rental. That usually comes with an extra charge.

Check Car Rental Prices

We considered hiring a 4WD for our Baja road trip as we’d read about how many of the coastal roads are unpaved. But we booked a Mitsubishi Mirage and were able to drive some decent-graded dirt roads without any difficulty at all.

The car rental company did warn us not to drive to Cabo Pulmo in our car – if you plan to explore the Eastern Cape or Cabo Este, then a 4WD is necessary. Also, during the winter months, some of dirt roads can get muddy after rains, so it can be helpful to have a 4WD.

10-Day Baja California Sur Road Trip

To hit the best spots, you’ll need at least 10 days in Baja California Sur. Driving distances aren’t long (usually 2-3 hours between each spot) but there are many epic experiences in this peninsula, and you won’t want to miss them.

In this Baja California itinerary, I’ve packed in a good mixture of wildlife experiences, underwater adventures, old town wanders, and beach bumming. Here is a summary of our 10-day Baja road trip itinerary. I will be giving a day-to-day breakdown below.

• Days 1-2: Los Cabos
• Day 3: Todos Santos
• Days 4-5: La Paz
• Day 6: Day Trip to Espiritu Santo
• Day 7: Puerto San Carlos
• Days 8-9: Loreto 
• Day 10: Back to Los Cabos

Download my Baja California Sur itinerary on Google Maps.

Baja California Itinerary Day 1: Los Cabos

This Baja road trip starts in Los Cabos, the southernmost tip of the Baja California Peninsula. To clarify, Los Cabos is a municipality composed of the two towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo linked by a 34km (21-mile) Tourist Corridor of beach-front properties and endless miles of coastline. 

The area was rural until the late 20th century when the Mexican government began to develop Cabo San Lucas for tourism. Today, Cabo San Lucas is a bustling tourist destination, centered around a busy marina. I would recommend staying in Cabo San Lucas as it’s on the coast and there are lots more restaurants and sights here.

One of the best things to do in Cabo San Lucas is hop on a boat tour of Land’s End, where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. You’ll get to admire el Arco, an ocean-carved arch and symbol of Los Cabos. Every four years or so, the water level gets low enough to reveal a beach under the arch, and that’s when you get the rare opportunity to walk under the arch. Otherwise, you can only admire it from the water.

Next to it are various other dramatic rock formations including the Pirate’s Cave and Pelican’s Rock . They are a hot spot for sea lion colonies and, in the winter, migrating whales. From January through April, Cabo San Lucas is likely the world’s best place for whale watching! There are so many species to see, but the most commonly spotted ones are humpback whales.

Whale-watching tours prioritize eco-conscious practices and are in high demand, often reaching capacity quickly. Therefore, book them well in advance to ensure availability. We booked this whale-watching tour with a marine biologist and were very happy with it.

Most boat tours last for half a day, so you’ll have the afternoon free! Some of the best beaches in Baja California are found near Cabo de Lucas, and most of them are hardly ever crowded. However, not all beaches are safe for swimmers – many of them have dangerous waves and strong undertows. But these beaches are well marked. 

• Santa Maria Beach – the most swimmable beach near Cabos San Lucas. The protected marine area is relatively quiet and secluded, with calm and shallow waters great for those traveling with kids. 
• Chileno Beach – a calm bay sitting midway between Cabos San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. The shallow waters have lots of marine life, great for snorkeling! 
• Palmilla Beach – this mile-long beach is family-friendly and has the international Blue Flag certification, which means you’ll find lifeguards and bathrooms there.
• Medano Beach – the main beach in Cabo San Lucas is, as you would expect, the most popular one. Besides swimming, you can also try water sports such as kayaking and parasailing here or indulge in the various seafood restaurants here.

Next, head over to Wachinango’s , a quirky seafood joint with over-the-top decor and excellent seafood dishes like grilled octopus and breaded shrimps drenched in caramelized chipotle sauce. The owner is such a great guy, and he’s always happy to recommend the best dishes. The restaurant is located in downtown Cabo San Lucas and an easy walk fro the marina.

After dinner, stroll a few blocks over to the marina boardwalk. Oceanfront eateries and lively bars line the spacious boardwalk, alongside tacky souvenir shops and tour agencies. The Cultural Pavilion hosts theater and dance performances on certain Mexican holidays . On Sundays, the road running parallel to the marina is closed to traffic and open for pedestrians to walk, bike, rollerblade or jog.

Most resorts are located along the Tourist Corridor that stretches between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo on the coastline. These are usually massive all-inclusive resorts that don’t encourage tourists to venture beyond the walls of the resort. I suggest booking an Airbnb, like we did, in the Pedregal area with the best views of Cabo San Lucas.

Airbnb: Lux Pool Unit

We stayed at this affordable Airbnb (pictured) in the upscale, hilltop Pedregal area. The 3-bedroom apartment was spacious, clean and modern; and the sunset views from the balcony were spectacular. Best of all, it’s just an 8-minute drive to the marina. Check rates.

Luxury: One&Only Palmilla

Situated along the stunning coastline of Los Cabos, One&Only Palmilla is a luxurious resort renowned for its world-class amenities and unparalleled service. Set amidst lush tropical gardens overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the resort offers lavish villas with private pools.  Check rates here.

Mid-Range: Mar del Cabo by Velas Resorts

Located just steps away from the beach in San José del Cabo, this boutique hotel features chic and spacious suites with modern amenities and ocean views. Unwind by the pool, dine at the on-site restaurant serving fresh seafood and Mexican cuisine, or take advantage of the hotel’s complimentary beach club access. Check rates here.

Budget: Cabo Inn Hotel

For budget-conscious travelers, Cabo Inn Hotel offers a charming and affordable option in the heart of Cabo San Lucas. With its central location and wallet-friendly rates, Cabo Inn Hotel provides a convenient base for exploring without breaking the bank. Check rates .

Baja California Itinerary Day 2: San Jose del Cabo

The next day, drive over to the more traditional colonial town of San Jose del Cabo, just 30 minutes away from Cabo San Lucas – for a very different side to Los Cabos. The quaint and charming San Jose del Cabo is a historical town with the vibes of a pueblo mágico (magical town). These days, many of its pastel-colored houses have been restored to house indie boutiques, art galleries, cafes and craft beer breweries.

The main square of the town is Plaza Mijares , and overlooking it is the beautiful San José missionary church. This is where you can snap photos of the big, colorful ‘San Jose del Cabo’s letters. Nearby cobblestoned streets are lined with papel picado (paper flags) overhead, and art galleries exhibit work by local artists.

East of the city is San José Estuary , a nature reserve home to bird species like hummingbirds, ibis and herons. Come early to spot these beautiful feathered animals!

Between November and June, the San Jose del Cabo Art Walk is a popular weekly event held every Thursday evening from 5-9pm. This event was established and organized by the Gallery District Association in the hopes of drawing art lovers and tourists away from the beach and into the alleys of this charming town.

The Art Walk centers around the Gallery District, located behind the church and main square. Make sure to coincide your trip with the Art Walk to see the town at its best. 

San Jose del Cabo has a thriving farm-to-table dining scene and several farms have sprouted out in the hills surrounding the estuary. Flora Farms brought the farm-to-table concept to Cabo. Sprawling over 25 acres, the organic farm produces its own vegetables and herbs and has a seasonal menu offering a range of tantalizingly tasty dishes. We had their wood-fired pizza and they we were amazing!

There are a few other farms in the area worth checking out: Acre , Los Tamarindos , and El Huerto . They are great places to spend the day at – you can follow the trails that lead through the farms, enjoy ridiculously fresh goods, chill on the outdoor dining area and enjoy some live music. It’s best to book your table in advance; it gets crowded on Sundays!

Head back to Cabo San Lucas and prepare for a gorgeous evening at Sunset Monalisa . Lauded as the best spot for sunset in los Cabos, Sunset Monalisa truly has an outstanding location and spectacular views of the coastline. It’s perched on a hilltop, with tables stacked on the cliffs overlooking the sea. It’s definitely a romantic spot for couples – we even witnessed a proposal here!

We were blown away by the view and ambiance, but we weren’t impressed by the food. They offer a fixed-price menu at US$100 for a 3-course dinner – but you can also order ala-carte dishes. We had the duck pasta and wagyu beef ravioli, and both were disappointing. At this price point, I was expecting much better food that what we were served. Cocktails are set at US$20 each – they were pretty good though.

All in all, I recommend coming here for sunset and just order drinks! It’s one of the most popular places to go in los Cabos , so you’ll need to book a table online in advance, even if you’re coming for drinks only.

Itinerary Day 3: Todos Santos

It’s time to hit the road and start your Baja road trip! Our first stop, Todos Santos, is just a 1-hour drive away (75km or 43 miles) from Cabo San Lucas. The pueblo mágico (magic town) is known for its many galleries, the slow pace of life, and stunning beaches. It is the home base to many artists and is particularly popular amongst surfers in search of smooth waves and sunny beach days.

Start your day by exploring the town’s vibrant art scene. Todos Santos has a thriving community of artists and galleries, showcasing a diverse range of artwork from traditional Mexican folk art to contemporary pieces. Take a leisurely stroll along Calle Centenario , the main street lined with art galleries, studios, and boutique shops. 

Next, visit the iconic Todos Santos Mission , a beautiful 18th-century church that serves as a centerpiece of the town’s heritage. Wander through the cobblestone streets of the historic center and discover charming adobe buildings adorned with colorful facades and wrought-iron balconies. 

In the evening, head over to los Cerritos beach just a few miles away from Todos Santos. Here you can actually help to release baby turtles and watch them waddle into the sea. Tortuguero la Playita is a turtle conservation camp that protects the turtles that lay their eggs here. Three species of Sea Turtle (Leatherback, Olive Ridley and Black) nest on the beaches of Todos Santos. Olive Ridleys nest year round, Leatherbacks from October – April, and Blacks from September -February. 

They run turtle release programs everyday from December to February from 5.30pm to 7pm, and you’re welcomed to join them with a donation. Check their Facebook page as they update regularly. The volunteers first provide an educational talk about the turtles, then explain the process of hatching, and how the baby turtles need to crawl across the sand to reach the ocean.

Releasing baby turtles is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience for both adults and kids alike. Our daughter absolutely loved the experience – so did I!

In the evening, head back into town for a nice dinner. Located in a stunning old sugar mill, Oystera is the spot for a date or a special occasion dinner. Oysters, of course, are the main event here, but the rest of the menu is full of local seafood, meats, and produce. It’s hard to miss this restaurant – the building is draped in vine and oozes a European palace feel. 

Next door, you’ll find the gorgeous Vino Park, a lush winery right in the heart of town. The beautiful bistro and wine garden owned by Santa Terra serves boutique wines and amazing food in a verdant green setting. Book your table here.

Luxury: Hotel San Cristobal

Hotel San Cristobal (pictured) is a chic and elegant adults-only retreat overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Nestled amidst palm trees and lush gardens, this boutique hotel features beautifully designed rooms and suites with artisanal decor and modern amenities.  Check rates here.

Mid-Range: Hotel Quinta Santa Rosa

We stayed at this midrange hotel just a few blocks from the center of Todos Santos. The pool and outdoor lounge area are fantastic. Our room on the second floor had fantastic views of the sunset and the beach in the far distance. Check rates here.

Budget: Posada del Molino

Posada del Molino provides affordable accommodation in a charming colonial-style setting. Located just a short walk from the town center, this budget-friendly hotel offers comfortable rooms and suites with traditional Mexican decor and basic amenities. Check rates here.

Baja California Itinerary Day 4: La Paz

On Day 4 of your Baja road trip, you’ll be driving inland northwards for just 1 hour to La Paz, our favorite spot in Baja California Sur ! La Paz is a refreshingly authentic and untouristy coastal city compared to the hedonistic Los Cabos.This coastal city is located on the Sea of Cortez, and it makes for a great base to do boat trips, whale-watching tours and scuba diving excursions. 

Often called the “Aquarium of the World,” the Sea of Cortez harbors a rich marine ecosystem as diverse and spectacular as any on Earth. Here is where you can swim with sealions and leatherback turtles, and spot humpback whales — as well as the world’s largest animal, the blue whale. The unique ecosystem found in the Sea of Cortez has earned it special status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Above the water though, La Paz is in fact a really pleasant city with a lively malecón, or waterfront boulevard. Stretching for several kilometers, the Malecón is lined with palm trees, benches, and colorful sculptures, creating a welcoming atmosphere for leisurely walks or jogs. 

To traverse the entire malecón, you can even rent bicycles or pedal karts from Baja Blast , right across the malecón by Harker. We hired the pedal karts for 150 MXN (US$7.5) per hour and had a blast riding them down to the far end. Remember to stop and admire the art sculptures (that often depict its marine inhabitants) or take in the views from its scenic piers and overlooks. 

In the afternoon, head to the Museo de la Ballena (Museum of Whales) to learn about the gentle giants that live in the waters off La Paz. This small but interesting museum is said to house the biggest collection of skeletons in Mexico. You’l find the remains of gigantic whales hanging from the ceilings and interactive displays about whales, dolphins, and whale sharks.

Across the road from the malecón, you’ll find endless restaurants, bars and cafes. Whether you’re craving fresh seafood, traditional Mexican cuisine, or international fare, there are plenty of options to choose from. We enjoyed the craft beer and pizzas at Harker Board CO and loved the sunset views from its rooftop bar! Further down the road is Mariscos los Laureles , that serves the freshest seafood at affordable prices. Next door is Taco Fish , a locals’ favorite for shrimp and fish tacos!

Airbnb: San Jose Apartment

We stayed at an excellent 2-bedroom Airbnb (pictured) just one block from the malecón and steps from popular restaurants like Harker Board and Tiger Club. It had a great location, spacious living area and comfortable beds. Highly recommend it!  Check rates here.

Luxury: Orchid House Baja

Located next to Coromuel Beach, this upscale luxurious retreat overlooks the Sea of Cortez, with a beautiful infinity pool as its centerpiece. This resort features elegant rooms and suites with modern amenities and stunning ocean views.  Check rates here.

Mid-Range: Hotel Catedral La Paz

 Hotel Catedral La Paz offers comfortable accommodations in the heart of downtown La Paz. Located just steps away from the malecón. The hotel features cozy rooms with modern furnishings and amenities, as well as a rooftop terrace with panoramic views of the city and the bay.  Check rates here.

Budget: Hotel HBlue

This simple yet comfortable hotel provides clean and cozy rooms with basic amenities, making it a practical choice for budget-conscious travelers.  Check rates here.

Itinerary Day 5: Balandra Beach

At just a 30-minute drive from La Paz, you’ll find the legendary Balandra Bay, lauded as the most beautiful beach in Baja California . With magical swirls of sugar-white sand, shallow spearmint water, backed by cacti-studded mountains, Balandra Bay truly is one of the most spectacular beaches I’ve seen (and I’ve been to many stunning beaches in the Maldives , Seychelles and the Caribbean). 

The sheltered bay is in fact made up of 7 beaches, all of which can be visited at low tide. To get the best view of the bay, hike up the trail (off the first carpark) which will lead to a viewpoint. It’s a short 15-minute uphill walk; even my kid was able to walk it easily. Back on the beach, there are actually palapas (thatched shade) on the beach that are free to use, and kayaks available for rent. 

Because of previous accidents, Balandra Bay is now highly protected by CONANP (a government agency). Entrance is free, but it’s regulated. Visitors can enter between two timeslots: 8am-12pm; 1-5pm. Only 450 people are allowed in at each timeslot, so if you come too late, you might not be able to enter. I recommend coming 30 minutes before the start of each timeslot. 

• I recommend visiting Balandra Bay early in the morning when it’s high tide and there are less people. You’ll see the different shades of blue more clearly. 
• Visitors can enter between two timeslots: 8am-12pm; 1-5pm. Only 450 people are allowed in at each timeslot, so come just before 8am or 1pm.
• Balandra Beach is a highly protected area, so there are no amenities or restaurants. Make sure to pack your own snacks and drinks, beach mat and towels.
• There is free parking right by Balandra Beach; in fact there are two, if the first one is full, you’ll be asked to park at the second one that’s further out and walk 5 minutes to the beach.
• The water can be cold in winter – we visited in February and the weather was nice but water chilly.
• At low tide, you can walk all the way across to the Hongo de Balandra, a mushroom-shaped rock formation.
• There isn’t a lot of shade along the bay, the only area to get some shade is under the rocks near the Hongo de Balandra. Pack a hat and sunglasses.

After spending the morning at Balandra, I recommend heading over to Tecolote Beach just 30 minutes away. It’s the closest beach to Balandra with facilities and restaurants and it’s located at the tip of the bay. You can do water sports here, rent a beach bench or eat at one of the three seafood restaurants. If you have snorkeling gear, take the opportunity to head out and explore the marine life.

Itinerary Day 6: Isla Espiritu Santo

The next day, head out on a day trip to Espiritu Santo , an uninhabited island north of Balandra Bay. One of the natural wonders of Mexico , Espiritu Santo was declared a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in the 1990s. Due in large part to its unique climate and geographic features, the Sea of Cortez harbors a rich marine ecosystem more diverse and spectacular than anywhere else on Earth

The highlight of Espiritu Santo actually lies on the tiny islet of Los Islotes, home to a colony of around 400 sea lions. Most will be basking and barking on the rocks, but enter the sea donned with snorkel and mask and you’re treated to the magical sights of them diving and frolicking around in the water. They’re very playful, curious, and completely accustomed to the humans who regularly come to visit – some can even feel a little too familiar.

Espirtu Santo can only be visited on a boat tour – which usually includes snorkeling with the sea lion colony, watching the blue-footed boobies that migrate here from the Galapagos, and lunch on the gorgeous Playa de Ensenada Grande. We booked this Espiritu Santo tour and had a great female guide who made the tour fun and engaging! 

After your day trip (which should end by 3/4pm), get ready to leave La Paz and continue driving north for 3 hours to Puerto San Carlos , a fishing community facing the Pacific Ocean in Magdalena Bay. It’s a dusty small village that honestly doesn’t have much going for it except the phenomenal whale tours. One night here is more than enough.

For dinner, we followed our hotel owner’s recommendation and headed to Mariscos El Tiburón – and it was honestly the best meal of our trip! The simple seafood shack serves fresh-from-the-sea chocolata clams, octopus, shrimps and all kinds of fish. We tried the gratinated clams, shrimp tacos, grilled octopus and they were some of the best we had in all of Baja California.

The whale tours start very early in the morning, from Puerto San Carlos, specifically Isla Pato. Make sure to stay in a hotel on this part of the city. Sadly there aren’t many choices here and they’re mostly simple guesthouses.

Budget: Hotel Villas Isabela

This basic guesthouse belongs to the popular tour operator, Magdalena Bay Whales. If you’re going on a whale tour with them, staying here is the most convenient option as this is the meeting point. Check rates here.

Budget: Hotel Prado’s

Located at the entrance of San Carlos, this family-run guesthouse is colorful and chirpy, with lots of outdoor area filled with bougainvilleas. Rooms are big and spacious. Check rates here.

Mid Range: Hotel Vista Mag-Bay

This is the nicest hotel in San Carlos but don’t expect high-end luxury. We stayed at this ocean-facing hotel (though the tide is usually very low) and had a comfortable stay. Double rooms all have balcony doors that look out to the sea. Breakfast is served at 6am, so you can get your fill before heading out on your whale tour. Check rates here.

Itinerary Day 7: Magdalena Bay

Wake up bright and early (tours start at 6.30am) for the highlight of your Baja California Sur trip! Each winter, grey whales migrate south to the waters off Baja California to mate and give birth in the warm, shallow waters of the bay. But something else happens here, that makes Magdalena Bay such a special place.

The grey whales that migrate here are extremely friendly and they love to get up close to humans. I’ve never seen this happen anywhere else in the world – and I’ve seen whales in Iceland, Antarctica, Svalbard and Alaska – but only here do the whales allow people to touch, caress, and even kiss them. It’s an impressive phenomenon, and one that only happens here in Magdalena Bay.

We booked our boat tour with Magdalena Bay Whales in advance; they have been running tours here for 40 years and they charge a reasonable price of US$90/person + taxes or US$450 for a private boat. Since there were four of us, we opted for the private boat and had an incredible time with our captain. He’s lived in San Carlos his whole life, and have been a fisherman and boat captain for the last two decades.

The whale tours usually end by 2pm, so you’ll have the afternoon to drive up to Loreto. It’s a 2.5-hour drive, criss-crossing the width of the peninsula and back to the Sea of Cortez. As one of only two designated pueblos mágicos or magical towns in Baja California Sur, Loreto is an absolutely charming spot great for both history and nature, making the journey northward more than worthwhile!

Luxury: Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa

This upscale resort offers lavish accommodations and an array of upscale amenities. Guests can indulge in spacious suites featuring elegant decor, private balconies or terraces with breathtaking views, and luxurious amenities such as whirlpool tubs. Check rates here.

Mid Range: La Mision Loreto Hotel

Located in the heart of Loreto’s historic downtown area, this charming hotel offers a perfect blend of affordability and comfort. The hotel also offers a swimming pool, a fitness center, and an onsite restaurant serving delicious Mexican and international cuisine. Check rates here.

Budget: Hotel Angra

Situated just a short walk from Loreto’s main square, this cozy hotel offers simple yet comfortable rooms at budget-friendly prices. The hotel also offers a communal kitchen where you can prepare your meals, as well as a rooftop terrace with stunning views of the surrounding area. Check rates here.

Baja California Itinerary Day 8: Loreto

Nestled amidst the breathtaking Sierra de la Giganta mountain range and embraced by the mesmerizing Sea of Cortez, Loreto is well endowed with unparalleled natural beauty. Loreto is also a treasure trove of historical heritage, known as the oldest human settlement on the Baja California Peninsula.

Start your day at the Loreto Mission , officially known as the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó (Mission of Our Lady Loreto). This was the inaugural mission founded by the Jesuits on the Baja Peninsula, established in 1697. The Jesuits aimed to spread Christianity among the indigenous Monqui people.

Revered as the ‘mother of all the missions of the Californias,’ it paved the way for subsequent Spanish expansion in the region and served as a hub for further mission endeavors both north and south of Loreto. Today, the mission functions as a Catholic church, welcoming visitors.

Admission is free, but please refrain from disturbing ongoing services and dress appropriately. Adjacent to the mission is the Museo de las Misiones de Baja California (Museum of the Missions of Baja California); admission is 80 MXN (US$4). The museum offers a concise exhibition detailing the history of the Jesuits, featuring maps, artifacts, and images with Spanish and English translations.

Loreto is surrounded by the red-toned, rocky cliffs of the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range and they are just begging to be explored! One of the best hikes in Loreto brings you through the  Tabor Canyon. Located roughly 20 minutes from the town center, the trailhead marks the beginning of a 2.4 km (1.5 miles) round hike. Follow this map to hike the trail. 

Following a dry riverbed, the path gradually ascends into the canyon. The first part is relatively easy but requires scrambling and bouldering, so bring appropriate shoes. If you keep going and pass the image of the Virgin, the path will become much more strenuous. We only did the first part, but it’s manageable for most people, even my 8-year-old daughter could do it. 

In the evening, go for a stroll along the malecón to soak up the lively scene. You’ll most likely find couples walking hand in hand, families with strollers, kids on their bikes and street vendors offering various snacks and souvenirs. Midway through the malecón are the quintessential colorful letters spelling out “Loreto”.

Across the road from the malecón is a series of seafood restaurants and cafes –  one of our favorite places to eat at is Pepegina’s Sunrise , an inviting seafood restaurant situated on the upper floor of a building overlooking the malecón. I particularly loved their aguachiles (spicy raw shrimp dish) and camarones al ajillo (shrimps with garlic and red pepper).

Baja California Itinerary Day 9: Loreto

Loreto is one of the few places where you can still spot the blue whale, one of the world’s rarest species . Reaching a maximum length of 29.9 meters and weighing up to 199 tonnes, it is the largest animal known ever to have existed. Today, there are only 10,000-25,000 blue whales left in the world, making it the most endangered species. 

Between the months of February and March, the majestic blue whale migrate to the waters of Loreto Bay. Unlike humpback whales, known for their acrobatics, or grey whales that allow you to touch them, blue whales impress with their sheer size. Even catching a glimpse of their massive backs as they breach the surface leaves an indelible impression.

We had a great experience with Loreto Blue Whales ; the marine biologist on board provided invaluable insights into these magnificent creatures. Witnessing the largest animal on Earth is a truly unforgettable experience and one of our favorite experiences in Baja California.

Alternatively, if you’re all whaled-out, take a day trip to Coronado Island , just 25 minutes from Loreto. Despite its smaller size, Isla Coronado is immensely popular, primarily for its breathtaking beaches and crystal-clear blue waters, rivaling some of the finest beach destinations in Mexico.

The highly protected island is home to amazing flora and fauna. On your boat ride there, you’ll have the opportunity to spot dolphins, sea lions, and blue-footed boobies along the way.  Book your tour here.

Upon reaching the island, you’ll have some time (usually 2-3 hours) to unwind on the pristine beach, go snorkeling or explore the island’s scenic trails. If conditions permit, you might even have the chance to snorkel alongside the playful sea lions.

It’s time to start driving back south to Los Cabos. Driving straight from Loreto to Los Cabos takes around 6 hours 15 minutes one way. Make a stop for lunch in La Paz, the half-way point before continuing to the airport.

If you have some spare time, I’d suggest taking a different route from the one you took previously and drive through Los Barriles instead. This will increase the total drive time to 6h45m, but you’ll get to see a bit of the windsurfing hotspot Los Barriles.

Along the way, you can also stop at Santiago , an outdoor lovers’ paradise. The landscape is dotted with oases, green palm trees, flowing waterfalls and thermal springs bubbling from canyons.

Baja California Travel Guide

Generally, the peak tourist season in Baja California runs from November to April when the weather is most pleasant and chances of seeing whales and whale sharks are at the highest. During this time, temperatures range from 24-29°C (75-85°F). This period coincides with the dry season, offering plenty of sunshine and little to no rain. However, this is also when prices for accommodation and activities tend to be higher and the sea is colder. 

If you prefer to avoid crowds, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of May to June or September to October. During these months, temperatures can reach around 31-34°C (87-93°F), and there’s a higher chance of encountering brief afternoon showers. 

The summer months from July to August are the hottest and most humid, with temperatures often exceeding 32°C (90°F) and occasional tropical storms. However, this time can be ideal for travelers looking for budget-friendly deals and quieter beaches.

Baja California Sur generally maintains a reputation as a safe tourist destination. According to data from the U.S. Department of State’s Overseas Security Advisory Council (OSAC), there has been a noticeable decrease in crime rates, with a downward trend noted since 2017.

This suggests that safety and security measures within the region have been effective in addressing previous concerns. These measures may include increased police presence in tourist areas, the installation of surveillance cameras, and collaboration with tour operators to enhance security protocols.

Regardless, it’s important to follow common-sense safety practices, such as avoiding isolated areas at night, securing valuables, and using reputable transportation services.

• In Mexico, you drive on the right side of the road.
• Roads in Baja California are generally smooth, well paved, and free of portholes (except in the Eastern Cape).
• Driving within the cities can be slightly stressful, but once you’re out of the city it’s absolutely manageable.
• Always keep your driving license, car rental papers, and proof of insurance handy.
• The main road hazards are reckless drivers; they tend to go very fast, changing lanes as and when they like without signaling. Be wary of these drivers and keep calm!
• Avoid driving at night as you won’t be able to see the speed bumps and drivers go even faster than usual.

A Baja road trip will show you the best of the peninsula and let you experience the wild nature, marine life and culture of the state. Just pack a sense of adventure and tons of patience to navigate the roads and I guarantee you’ll have the trip of your lifetime!

I hope you’ve found this Baja California Sur itinerary useful. Feel free to leave a comment below if you need any help with planning your Baja road trip. For those who are planning to travel more of Mexico, check out other articles I’ve written on Mexico:

• 20 Best Beaches in Baja California
• 25 Fun Things to Do in Los Cabos
• 30 Magic Towns of Mexico
• 20 Natural Wonders of Mexico
• 10-Day Yucatan Itinerary
• 10-Day Oaxaca Itinerary
• 10-Day Guanajuato Itinerary
• 30 Things to Do in Oaxaca City
• 30 Things to Do in Guanajuato
• 30 Things to Do in San Miguel de Allende

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Your Complete Guide To an Epic Baja Peninsula Road Trip

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Let me take you on an adventure filled with shrimp tacos, long winding roads, and cobblestoned town squares. It’s a Baja Peninsula road trip. Arguably, the most scenic (& easy) road trip in Mexico.

It’s safe, it’s beachy, it’s teeming with cacti straight from the imagination of Dr. Suess. The nearly 1,000 mile-long peninsula offers pristine tropical beaches, wine country that rivals the nearby California Napa Valley, and life-saving lush palm-fringed oasis. You’ll savor desert sunsets sitting near a pack of coyotes surrounded by Saguaro cacti as the landscape is bathed in pastel pink. But for most out-of-country road trippers, it’s those undeveloped white sand beaches that draw you in.

I can’t rave about the beaches enough. I’ve enjoyed vanlife along the West Coast Highway 101 , Florida, and spent months playing on the shores of Sri Lanka , Indonesia , & Thailand’s beaches. And honestly, the Baja beaches are incredible. Rivaling the sands of SEAsia. You’ve likely heard of the turquoise water and limestone arches of Cabo San Lucas (the trashy resort town on the southern tip of the peninsula), but Baja has far better stretches of sand. We’ll dive into those a little later.

Planning an international road trip can be overwhelming. You’ve got border crossings, a fresh set of traffic laws, language barriers, and an unfamiliar food scene. Even something as simple as getting gas can be infinitely more complicated. But don’t you fret. We spent a month on the Baja Peninsula gathering all the info you need to grab your keys and hit the road on an epic Baja Peninsula road trip.

Getting Ready for a Baja Peninsula Road Trip

Let’s talk trip planning. The things you need to know before you go. But first…

Is Baja Mexico Safe?

You won’t have any cartel run-ins or shake-downs. I slept most nights with all my doors wide open on the beach without any hassle. I wouldn’t dare try that in the United States.

Nowhere in the world is without risk. But it’s very likely the most dangerous activity you’ll encounter is driving.

The Baja Peninsula is divided into two separate states. Baja Norte, also known as Baja California, & Baja California Sur. Both are heavily touristed. & the prices often reflect that. I wouldn’t go as far as to call the region “westernized” but it’s different from the rest of Mexico. Newer, beachier, and with a more laid-back vibe. Surrounded by fellow road trippers, safety won’t be a concern on a Baja peninsula road trip.

Best Time to Visit Baja

Spoiler: It’s not Summer.

Baja summers are sweltering. The air is sticky and humid with daytime temps reaching 110 degrees (F) and nighttime lows barely creeping down to 90 degrees (F) in some regions.

We did our big Baja Peninsula road trip in June. It was mind-meltingly hot. We were also traveling in our 1994 campervan that unfortunately does not have A/C. I’m gonna have to add that one to my embarrassingly long list of travel fails .

When choosing the time of year for your Baja road trip there are three things you should consider.

Ask any Canadian snowbird ( there are loads in Baja ) winter is the most pleasant time of year. Daytime temps sit at just above 70 degrees (F). But truthfully, with so many beaches for a quick dip, Spring and Fall are equally as pleasant.

Hurricanes do occasionally make landfall in Baja during the months of May-September but it’s fairly uncommon. If you want to avoid all chances of rain & storm steer clear of August-Sept.

If you have the misfortune of visiting Baja in the summer months (we did it), try to stick to the West Coast as often as possible. The winds from the Pacific create cooler nighttime temps, making van-dwelling much easier.

The Baja Peninsula is world-renowned for its migratory marine wildlife. Specifically, Humpback Whales, Sea Turtles, Mobula Rays, and Whale Sharks. But migratory animals, like the name says, migrate. They aren’t swimming in Baja’s waters year-round. So if swimming with Whale Sharks tops your bucketlist be sure to plan accordingly. Otherwise, you can enjoy dolphins, colorful reef fish, stingrays, and sea lions year-round.

Whale Sharks: Oct-April

Southern towns like Cabo, La Paz, & Bahia de Los Angeles offer tours to swim with these gentle giants.

Humpback Whales: Dec-April

These specific Humpbacks are some of the friendliest in the world often coming right up to the boats.

Mobula Rays: March-Nov

Traveling in a mass of flapping wings these rays shoot out of the water creating quite a spectacle.

Sea Turtles: Late Nov- Early May

Sea turtles are present in Baja year round but if you time your visit during this window you can help release baby turtles into the sea in the small town of Todos Santos.

There are loads of marine tours offered on the Baja Peninsula. Many are ethical and operate with great care for the wildlife. Be sure to research any tour operator before booking. I can’t recommend a specific one since we did not visit during wildlife season.

Because Nov-Jan are the most pleasant months, they are also the most crowded. Some beaches that are typically free begin charging small fees to set up camp or reach capacity early in the day.

If you’re looking for a more isolated paradise I would time your Baja Peninsula road trip during the shoulder season of Sept-Nov or Feb-May.

Mexican Auto Insurance

Just like in the United States, drivers in Mexico are legally required to obtain auto insurance. I’ll save you some time googling; your US insurance won’t work south of the border. If your Mexico road trip doesn’t leave the Baja Peninsula (my itineraries do not) then you do not need to obtain a Mexican Tourist Visa or a TIP (temporary vehicle import permit) . If you do fancy the idea of taking the ferry from La Paz to mainland Mexico however, you’ll need both.

Packing Essentials

I consider myself an expert-level light packer from years of long-term international travel. But when we moved into our van to visit every single US national park and eat our way across America , our needs and available space changed dramatically. Throw in an international road trip filled with both tropical beaches and barren deserts and packing gets a wee bit more difficult.

So, we created a comprehensive packing list for van road trips. Don’t worry if you’re not van-dwelling this list is handy for car campers & traditional road trippers as well. Read the full list here .

These are some items specifically tailored to a Baja Peninsula road trip that you should add to your packing list. I linked specific products we personally use and highly recommend.

• High-quality spare tire & car jack. You should have this for any road trip.
• Tow rope or tow chain. To pull your car out of sandy situations. Cars get stuck in Baja often. It’s basically a right of passage.
• Shovel. For digging yourself out of sandy situations.
• Inflatable SUP or Kayak. The best part of Baja.
• Battery Operated Fan . For those steamy nights when the van or car just won’t cool off.
• Snorkel Gear. So many tropical fish & sea turtles. Also you’ll save on your whale shark tours.
• Pepto-Bismol & Toilet Paper. Even if you don’t get full-blown food poisonging it’s likely you’ll have a little tummy trouble. Pepto to settle the stomach and TP because many bathrooms have none. & if they do have TP they usually charge 20 pesos.
• Beach Gear. Towels, chairs, the whole 9 yards. You’ll be spending lots of time in the sand.
• Books/Podcasts /Off-the-grid entertainment. Very rarely will you have service in Baja. Be prepared to entertain yourself on those long drives and relaxing days at the beach.

4-Wheel Drive. Is it necessary? That entirely depends on how far off-the-beaten-path you want to venture. My biggest regret about our time in Baja was all the seaside towns, waterfalls, and scenic detours we had to skip because we couldn’t risk getting stuck in the sand. Not to mention the beach camping. I highly recommend a vehicle with 4WD.

Handy Spanish Phrases

Most Baja locals don’t speak English.

& you shouldn’t expect them to. Instead, learn a few key phrases that might come in handy and work with that. You don’t need to know full sentences to communicate effectively.

Full (Gas Stations)

You’re Welcome

I need help

I don’t understand

Check (restaurant)

Necesito Ayuda

No entiendo

Cuanta/Cuanto

Pronunciation

Yayno or Jayno

Low See ento

Nessisito Eye udo

No en tea en doe

Com Pray Ba

Obviously, that’s not going to get you very far but it will help with basic everyday interactions.

Everything You Need to Know About Driving in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico

Each country has its own nuances of the road. Drivers in the US are uncharacteristically impatient and heavy on the horn but if you road trip through Laos (or many other parts of Asia), you’ll find that drivers use the horn as a signal rather than a sign of aggression. Similar to Mexico.

Here’s what you need to prepare for when learning to drive in Mexico.

Crossing the Border

Let’s start by getting into the country. You have two points of entry for the Baja Peninsula. Tijuana, the busiest US border crossing, or Mexicali.

It doesn’t particularly matter which you choose, but if you plan on traversing the entire peninsula it’s likely you’ll enter through one and exit through the other. In that case, you should 100% enter through Tijuana. Crossing from the U.S. to Mexico in Tijuana is a breeze. In fact, you should be extra certain you have your passports on hand (for departure) because it’s likely they won’t even stop you to check on the way in.

Our van was ‘searched’ for under a few minutes and we drove on through to TJ. Having said that, be sure to ensure there aren’t any drugs or other contraband in the van. Vans can turn into bottomless storage pits after being on the road, you would hate to have that one joint cause a world of hassle for yourself or be turned around before your road trip even began.

Leaving through the Tijuana border is another story entirely. 20 crowded lanes of bumper to bumper traffic with vendors weaving through their captive audience of cars selling churros, window washes, and blankets. Even at 3 AM, the border crossing takes several hours. & if you’re unfortunate enough (like us) to get stuck in the “Sentri” lanes which are only for global entry pass holders, you’ll end up chatting with a border agent while he explains that everyone gets 3 strikes (or lane mishaps) before they are charged a $5,000 fine .

Rules of the Road

It’s not just Mexican driving culture that’s different. The laws are too. Here’s what you need to keep in mind before driving on the Baja Peninsula.

The infamous left turn signal.

In America, our left turn signal is used to let people know we are making a left-hand turn or changing lanes. In Mexico however, your left-hand blinker signifies that you are allowing someone to pass you and you are confirming the coast is clear for them to do so.

This means if you are making a left-hand turn on a two-lane road, slow all the way down, flip on your blinker and ALWAYS check to make sure someone isn’t going to blindside you trying to pass as you turn. These crashes are common and deadly. Likewise, when, ( because you will ) you get stuck behind a semi-truck going 15 MPH on winding narrow roads, he will use his signal to let you know when it’s safe to pass him.

Most roadways are single lane which makes passing difficult. Since vans don’t tend to be the fastest things on the road, especially in Baja, it’s best to just hug the shoulder and use your left turn signal to indicate people may pass you.

Drinking & Driving

Drinking and driving is illegal in Mexico, but often rarely enforced. The same goes for open containers, which means you’ll sometimes see locals drinking while they drive. Just be vigilant on the roadways and know that weekends will have the most intoxicated drivers.

You can be pulled over in Baja for a wide variety of reasons. Not wearing a seatbelt, speeding ( can you convert KM/H to MPH?), or simply because of your American license plate. In any situation, bribery is often an option.

How do you bribe a police officer you ask?

Very discreetly offer $20-$40. Keep it in your vehicle and discreetly show them the cash. Often they don’t want their partners back in the car to know they are pocketing the money. If that doesn’t work you’ll have to go to the local police station to pay your infraction.

Military Check Points

Let me start by saying…this is a place you cannot bribe.

But it sounds a lot more ominous and sketchy than it actually is. There are 6 total on the road down to Cabo. Some you roll through without stopping and give a wave, a couple of them have you exit and then search your vehicle. They are usually very nice, asking where you come from, where you’re going, and if it’s for vacation and send you on your way.

They are looking for “drugas” (drugs) so don’t be surprised if they poke around the inside of your van.

Phrases to know: De donde vienes ? – Where are you coming from? Adonde vais ? – Where are you going? Military officers very rarely speak English and they will definitely ask you these 2 questions at each checkpoint.

Common Road Hazards

My two biggest driving tips for the Baja Peninsula are don’t drive at night & don’t drive tired. If that means you have to break up the long desert stretches into two days, do it.

Roads in Baja can be very touch-and-go and most stretches have day-ruining potholes, unmarked topes (speed bumps), wildlife crossing, including cows and horses. I found driving in the early morning ensured you aren’t driving through peak heat, which can get intense away from the west coast, and will put you at your destination well before dark. Let’s take a look at common road hazards in Baja and how to avoid them.

Pot Holes & General Disrepair

If you stick to the 2 main highways zig-zagging across Baja, road conditions are good enough. There are errant pot-holes and some general crumbling, but it’s paved the entire way so what more could you ask for.

If you venture off those roads, however, you’ll find washboards covered in a few inches of loose sand and treacherous packed dirt roads with incredibly steep grades. This is where 4WD comes in handy. Just be alert and prepared during drive days.

Erratic Drivers

We already touched on the potential for drunk drivers, but drivers in Baja are a little erratic even sober. Speeding is very common and they take corners at unrecommended speeds. Worst of all, they often pass around blind corners or hills. Just something to keep in mind.

Vacas (Cows)

Why did the cow, wild horse, and goat cross the road?

I don’t actually have a punchline but just keep in mind that they do. Even highways. There are no rules in the desert.

Unmarked Speed Bumps

Topes. Speed bumps. Unpainted and ready to completely destroy your vehicle. These speed bumps are not always marked or have signs near them as any warning. They are usually signaling that you’re coming up on a town, a sharp turn, or a military checkpoint. If you see a sign that says anything about Velocidad (speed), or a town coming up it’s best to slow down. These can sometimes be extremely hard on your suspension (& everything else as you go hurtling over them) so take them as slowly as you possibly can.

Let’s be honest, the real allure of driving through Baja is the chance to sleep literally on a beach and waking up to the waves crashing and the sun peaking over the water. The reality is often as good as the fantasy, but there is a limit to where you can drive your car before it sinks into pockets of deep and loose sand.

When in doubt, read reviews before you reach your intended beach campsite on iOverlander . If you don’t have service, walk the road a bit and see if the sand feels too loose. A sign of that is the lack of tread or tire tracks on roads. You can also flag down a car coming the other way and see if it’s safe to travel. Also, while I’m throwing out recommendations avoid getting too close to the water. Typically, vans do their best to get as close to the water as possible for the morning coffee views, but that’s also where sand is thickest and most treacherous. I’ve seen many stuck cars getting pulled out by very unamused tow trucks.

If you do get stuck: Have a shovel to dig out your tires. If you don’t have “sand tracks” (specifically for this purpose) you can use your driver and passenger seat floor mats for traction. & then let the air out of your tires. Use this as a last resort or if you know there’s somewhere you can fill them back up. As you press on the gas, twist your steering wheel back and forth to try and shimmy your way out. Ask other beachgoers to help push at the same time. Many are more than willing to help because it’s likely happened to them a time or two. Often you don’t even need to ask. Some of the more developed beaches even have tow services specifically for such scenarios.

Now that I’ve covered all the hazards is a good moment to remind you that a Baja peninsula road trip is no more terrifying or difficult than driving in the United States. I promise. It just takes a little getting used to.

Gassing Up in the Baja Peninsula

It’s almost as easy as gassing up back home.

First things first, gas stations in Mexico aren’t self-service. Like Oregon , they have gas station attendants who handle all the pumping.

Here’s how to handle a typical gas fill-up.

Always be sure to verify that the pump is set to zero. “ La bomba esta puesta a cero” . Then they will usually ask if you want premium or Magna. Magna is regular gas. Regular is usually a green pump which sent me into a panic our first fill up thinking I accidentally told him diesel. It is also customary to leave a 20-30 peso tip to attendants who wipe your windows clean while they pump your gas, so always have some coins handy.

Another scam to watch out for is double charging or worse with your credit card. As soon as you can, be sure to check your account statement and make sure you were only charged once. The best way to avoid getting ripped off is to be friendly, smile, and give a “Buenos Dias”, act like it’s not your first rodeo.

Note: some gas stations are CASH ONLY. So always have a stash of cash in case the only gas station for the next 150km doesn’t take credit cards.

Fill up when you can

There are huge stretches of roadway void of any sign of life, or gas for that matter. A good common rule is when you dip just below half a tank, start to assess your gas options. Specifically, the stretch of road between El Rosario de Arriba, Catavina, and Bahia de Los Angeles is a gas desert.

The Green Angels & Roadside Repairs

You just walloped a cow, popped a tire, or slowly petered out of gas. Now what?

Fortunately, Mexico has a free roadside assistance service called the Green Angels. They patrol the major highways during daytime hours looking for stranded foreigners (& locals). If you happen to have cell service their 24-hour phone number is 01-800-987-8224.

Although the service is technically free it is customary to throw those lifesavers a little tip.

Alternatively, if you need van repairs while in Baja you’re in luck. Mechanic shops and tire repair stores are literally on every corner. It’s common for them to overcharge foreigners…. but what are you gonna do about it?

Tips for Vanlife in Baja

Let’s just pause for a moment & discuss Baja Mexico Vanlife. If you’re planning a road trip with hotels/have no interest in the day-to-day van-dwelling you can just skip this section.

Best Wild Camping in Baja

For the most part, van camping is free in the Baja Peninsula. You can pretty much wild camp anywhere without the risk of being hassled. But finding scenic wild camping is the goal here. Here are 3 tips on finding scenic Baja wild camping to keep in mind.

• IOverlander is great for finding places to sleep. Some of the more developed beaches will charge you to stay for the day or overnight and accept cash (usually 100-200 pesos). They are always very nice and will take trash from you, offer to fill your water, etc.

2. Arrive early. To ensure a good spot on any beach it is wise to get there early. Especially during peak season in the winter, if you don’t get a spot early, they sometimes close the beach to any newcomers.

3. Keep in mind the tides. Try and see where the high tide mark is, and stay above that. As always don’t arrive at dark to avoid getting stuck in sand or unknowingly parking too close to the water.

Read this blog post that details the art of Stealth Camping to become a professional van camper in the US and Mexico.

These were my personal favorite wild camp locations in Baja Mexico.

• Playa La Gringa (Bahia de los Angeles)
• San Ignacio town square
• Faro de Mulege (Mulege)
• Playa Santispac
• Playa El Coyote
• Playa El Tecolote
• Playa Balandra
• San Pedrito Beach (Todos Santos)
• La Playita (San Jose del Cabo)

Map of Best Wild Camping in Baja Peninsula

Water Fill Ups & Showers in the Desert

The Baja Peninsula as a whole is one of the driest regions of Mexico. The cities scattered across the peninsula suffer a nearly year-round drought. Water is a scarce resource. But aside from gallon jugs scored at the OXXO convenience stores you’ll also find tons of water refill sites ready to fill any container with freshly filtered water. Just look for blue painted buildings called Water World or anything with “Purificador” in the name.

As for showers, if you didn’t grab a shower bag for wild showers you can always pay for one at hostels, large gas stations, or some popular beaches. I resorted to ocean rinses on most days since you’ll be spending so much time covered in saltwater anyways.

The Perfect Baja Road Trip Itinerary

Now you’re ready to hit the road. Click the link below to head to my blog post detailing the perfect Baja Peninsula road trip itinerary.

Invest in a Comprehensive Van Build Guide

Building a van is overwhelming. It often involves countless hours scouring Youtube, blog posts, and facebook groups looking for semi-helpful information. It’s a huge project and when we first purchased our van we didn’t even know where to begin. What van layout should we choose? How do I build everything from scratch (from window covers to shelving)? Should I choose sheep wool insulation or polyiso boards? & these are just the easy questions. Katie & Ben from Two Wandering Soles provide the answers. They created these super neat van build breakdowns to help guide us through the process.

& if you’re a first-time builder I highly recommend their complete van conversion academy.

Investing in Van Conversion Academy Includes…

• Clear blueprints for all the most complicated van systems (I’m talking about you electrical) complete with online shopping lists where you can purchase the  exact  parts you need. 
• Tons of layout options to choose from. They even provide exact blueprints and measurements that you can copy for multiple van designs!
• Access to an exclusive Facebook group of fellow builders where you can ask all the questions your heart desires. 
• A COMPLETE step-by-step walk-through on how to build your van from fan installation to sub-flooring to sound dampening to water and propane. They’ve thought of everything including what the most common pitfalls are with each step and how to avoid them. 
• Lifelong access to ALL this content. & loads more I won’t cover here.

If you invest in ONE thing before you begin your vanbuild, make it this master course. Katie and Ben helped us build our dream van and whether or not you spring for a Sprinter (we didn’t) or something more budget-friendly they will make sure you get the results you want before hitting the road.

Save This Post for Later!

Further Reading...

3 Towns Worth Road-Tripping in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico

5 Delicious Places to Eat in Rosarito, Mexico.

The Best 3-Week Baja Mexico Itinerary: Discover the Peninsula

This guide is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for the detailed info, makes me feel prepared for potentially crossing the border!

This was fantastic. If you come back to baja go to the Escapar van meetup: https://escaparalabaja.com/

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The Best of Boulder, Colorado (On A Budget)

Beyond_the_bucketlist.

10 day Baja California Sur road trip

Disclaimer: This page may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of those links, I may earn a commission at zero cost for you. Please see my disclaimer policy here, and my privacy policy here.

Baja California is one of my favorite regions to explore for its variety of ecosystems and landscapes. On this 10-day Baja California Sur Road trip, I was exploring Baja for my second time, this time by myself and I had a blast.

Too bad my trip was interrupted by Covid, otherwise, it would have been 15 days.

But I can’t complain. In this post, I am going to share with you my itinerary as well as important practical tips on traveling to Baja California Sur.

The blue ocean and the red rocky desert dotted with thousands of green cacti offer a spectacular contrast and overwhelming views that captivate any nature lovers and photographers. 

The best way to explore Baja California is by renting a car and in this post, I will share my 10-day road trip itinerary in Baja California Sur, including the most exciting things to do and places to see. 

➢ Do I need travel insurance in Mexico? Yes, you do! I can never stress enough what a lifesaver it can be in unexpected situations. Although I hope I never need it, it gives me peace of mind to know that whatever happens, I am covered. I have been using   Safety Wing , and I find it quite fair, covering a lot for its pricing level. Depending on your needs or you can compare different insurance companies on this useful site, TRAVEL INSURANCE MASTER . Make sure you read carefully what’s included before making the purchase. If you are undecided yet, you can read my post on the best travel insurance for Mexico for more clarity.

Baja California practical tips

A few practical notes on this road trip itinerary in Baja California

✅ If you are concerned about renting a car in Mexico, don’t be. I have been driving in Mexico for the past 10 years and although there are places where it’s not advisable to go, Baja California is not one of them.

On the contrary, it’s one of the safest areas to travel. Also, having a car in Baja California is more practical because the local transportation is not reliable if you want to reach the most interesting areas. Just make sure you pick your car rental wisely. I recommend checking on Discover cars because it allows you to compare prices from different car rentals.

✅ Baja California is a great destination for solo travelers because it’s relatively safe and easy to move around. I was there on my own twice and I had a blast.

✅ Get your snorkeling gear because it’s more hygienic, and a dry bag so you can take your belonging with you while you are having fun in the water

✅ US$ are accepted but it’s more convenient to have Mexican Pesos, for the exchange rate. 

✅ Keep your gas tank always half full at least, so you don’t risk running out.

✅ Tipping is not mandatory, but it is expected, for supermarket baggers, Gas Station stuff, and waiters. 

✅ Drive slowly, the only danger on Baja Roads are the goats and cows appearing in front of you out of nowhere.

✅ Get a local sim card and use Google Maps to find your way around. A local sim card is also helpful in case you need to call a hotel or your car rental or if any issue occurs. 

Baja California itinerary Map

10 days Baja California road trip

Discover Cars Mexico Review

Discover Cars is one of the most popular car rental for many reasons, among which:

✔︎ straight forward information ✔︎ full coverage add-on ✔︎ listing of different companies with reviews

This itinerary is not set in stone. It’s just a sample of what I would do to cover all the amazing things to do in Baja California Sur , based on my experience. (I did two road trips in Baja). By all means, you can change it according to your interests.

It’s applicable only between January and March, which is the whale season. 

Day 1 – Arriving a Los Cabos International Airport

On the first day, you will arrive at Los Cabos Airport , but you will skip the city and after picking up your car rental, you will drive to San Jose al Cabo, where you will spend the first night. 

San Jose al Cabo is a cute touristic town, much more charming than Cabo San Lucas, for its historical feel.

If you manage to organize your arrival on a Thursday night, it’s even better because you will be enjoying a nice night out in the heart of town where artists gather and show their works in the main square.

You will also enjoy great food and live music in local restaurants. If you happen to be there early in the day, you can make time to explore the beach .

Days 2 –  Santiago – Cabo Pulmo

The following day you´ll have an early wake-up call as you will be enjoying a wonderful hike in the Sierra de La Laguna .

A spectacular deserted area with amazing trails and hidden oasis, and even a hot spring. I went with a great guide that was suggested by a local friend.

I met 2 ladies who joined the tour and we eventually became friends.

We had a great time hiking on boulders and riding our bikes for part of the road.

Ah! The joy of traveling alone. 

From San Jose del Cabo to Santiago is only a 1-hour drive . 

After the tour, which is normally from 9 to 14, you will drive to Cabo Pulmo and settle in your previously booked hotel. 

Cabo Pulmo is a very renowned destination for divers and snorkelers, because of the incredible wealth of marine life, and whale watching. 

Winters are usually packed and it might be challenging to find a place to stay, especially on weekends. I would suggest you book in advance. 

Day 3- 4 Cabo Pulmo

2 nights and one full day in Cabo Pulmo is good enough unless you are a diver. But that’s for another post.

There are many different tours available but snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo is the most complete and rewarding experience because you basically combine two tours into one. 

It’s a 3 hours excursion where you do 3 snorkeling stops, the last one being with the funny sea lions. 

The bonus of this tour is that you will see humpback whales as well, and it’s an amazing memorable view that you will cherish for life.

To see these giants jumping and dancing out of the water right in front of you makes you wonder at the beautiful perfection of mother nature .

Even the guides that see those scenes every single day, were over-excited at the sight of the whale and her baby. 

Cabo Pulmo is a great place also for birdwatchers. I was lucky enough to meet some professional birders who let me join their birdwatching walk one morning, just outside the village.

It’s amazing how many birds you see if you can just observe. 

You can do it on your own. It’s just about staying quiet and observing but you must be there around 6 am. 

Day 4 – Adolfo Lopez Mateo 

Today is a driving day, probably the longest you will be in your car. You will reach Adolfo Lopez Mateo where you will have an amazing encounter with the grey whales.

This is in my opinion the place where you can experience the best whale watching in Mexico .

It’s about 6 hours drive for  428 km/ 265 miles

But worry not because you will be very well entertained. The road is a spectacular endless concrete path cutting through the vast infinity of the orange rocky desert. It feels like a movie.

Just make sure you stay focused on the road, and be on the lookout for the random animals that might cross,  and when you want to admire the view, just pull over and enjoy it.

If you get to the destination around 3 pm you are still on time to get to the marina and check with the tour companies if they have any tours available. 

Otherwise, you can check in to your hotel and wait for the following morning. 

How to book your tour in Lopez Mateos. 

The way Lopez Mateos’ fishermen are organized for whale watching tours is very practical and perfect for solo travelers. That’s why it’s my favorite place for whale watching in Baja California.

Basically, you get to one of the ticket counters and tell them you want to do a whale watching tour and for how many people.

They will check if they have any groups available that you can join or they let you wait around and call you when they have availability. You will always find other people like you or couples that want to share the boat. 

The tour has a fixed price per boat, so depending on how many people are in your boat, you will split the cost. 

Insider tip: Although the boat can hold up to 12 passengers, I wouldn’t go with a full boat. 

I believe 6 to 7 is the maximum number, especially if you want to take pictures. You need to have space to move quickly without causing any unpleasant situation such as falling off the boat, for example.

The gray whales are very friendly animals. Obviously, they are free in the ocean but they come into the protected bay to give birth and mate because that’s where they find protection from the ocean predators.

They are totally at ease with humans, they get close to the boats and stick their huge heads out as if they wanted to bond and connect with the excited tourists. It’s an amazing experience. 

I am so crazy about whales that I took two tours in Lopez Mateos, one in the afternoon and one in the following morning before driving to Loreto. 

Also, know that Alfonso Lopez Mateo is a tiny village with just a couple of hotels and two or three restaurants.

Day 5 – 8 Loreto

The drive to Loreto is a short one. About 150 km, 2 hours, if you don’t continuously stop to take pictures, like me.

Especially once you reach the coastal area, you will have access to spectacular views, and you will want to stop all the time, but the road doesn’t always allow it. 

Here is where you need to be more careful as there are a lot of unexpected curves and that’s where the goats are hiding and suddenly getting in your way. 

So drive slowly, keep your eyes on the road and pull over when you can if you want to admire the breathtaking scenery. 

When you arrive in Loreto you can use your time to familiarize yourself and explore the tiny historical center. Take a nice walk to the Malecon, and get a coffee in one of the nice cafes in the plaza.  

Loreto is a pretty historical town, proclaimed by the Mexican tourism association as one of the Magic Towns, for its charm and its interesting natural resources. 

This is where the Spanish conquerors landed on the peninsula for the first time taking the Jesuits with them who founded their missions.

If you have time I suggest you should visit the Local Museum right in the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, the first founded Mission. It’s very small but interesting if you are curious to learn about the history of Baja California.

There are many things to do in Loreto but since we have limited time, I would go for a tour to Coronado Island, and one for blue whale watching. 

They are both worth the money and your time, without a doubt.

Coronado Island tour

Coronado Island is one of the many islands located right off the coast of Loreto Bay. The tour will take you to one of its spectacular deserted beaches washed by an unrealistic turquoise sea.

Here you will have some free time to snorkel and swim or just admire the paradisiac scenery. 

On the way to the island, you will make a snorkeling stop to swim with the funny sea lion. But the most spectacular view is one of the dolphins that will surround your boat. 

Whale watching tour

The blue whale is the biggest animal on earth. Seeing it from so close is an overwhelming feeling that you will remember forever. The blue whale is not so playful as the grey whale, also because due to its dimension it is better if it doesn’t get that close.

However, seeing their tail sticking out of the water with such grace despite its humongous size, is really a beautiful experience. 

The boat ride to the site where the whales are located takes about 2 hours. However, during the trip, you will be delighted by the spectacular sights of hundreds of dolphins flipping and swimming around the boat. I had never seen so many dolphins together. It was like a miracle.

This site is not mentioned as part of the tour because it cannot be guaranteed  100% but the guide explained that they see them very often.

10 days Baja California  itinerary day 8 – 10  Todos Santos or La Paz?

Now is the time to drive back south and you can decide whether you want to end your trip in La Paz or in Todos Santos. 

It really depends on what you are looking for and I will leave it up to you.

I am just sharing some information on both destinations to help you decide. 

Consider that Todos Santos is a 1hr 30’ drive from Los Cabos airport and 2 hours from La Paz, so you might want to plan your flight out accordingly. 

Although La Paz is the capital city of Baja California, it doesn’t look like one. On the contrary, it has maintained the laid-back fishing town feel, especially if you hang out around the Malecon (the promenade), to enjoy spectacular sunsets, great boat tours , and delicious restaurants. 

There are many amazing things to do in la Paz , however the most popular are: 

• Whale sharks tours (winter only)
• Espiritu Santo boat tour (all year round)
• Playa Bal andra – is one of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico in my personal opinion, great during the day, and romantic at sunset. 

Check out some hotel options in La Paz

Todos Santos

Todos Santos is a very special place, with a huge bohemian community that enjoys the good life, art, surf, and beach time.

There most interesting things to do in Todos Santos are:

• enjoying the world-class culinary scene, 
• taking some surfing class
• watching the pro surfers flying over the crashing waves. 
• Spending time on the beach at sunset. 
• Join a yoga retreat

Todos Santos is also home to stylish world-class hotels and yoga retreats. 

It’s a place for relaxing and reflecting. 

So, here are the two destinations in a nutshell for the end of your amazing road trip in Baja California Sur . I am curious to know which one you will choose and why.

I hope this sample itinerary around Baja California was helpful, but I am available for any questions you might have.

For further reading

• Weather in Mexico in July Like + Things to Do and Events
• Weather in Mexico City in November + Things to Do and Tips
• Adventure in Cozumel: Top 5 Outdoor Activities for Thrill-Seekers
• The Pros And Cons of Living in Cozumel 
• 7 Amazing Day Trips from Puebla Mexico (+ Tour Recommendations)

✨ Mexico Travel Planning Guide ✨

👉 do i need travel insurance to travel to mexico.

I would do it if I were you. You never know what can happen and know that no matter what, you will be covered with any expenses will give you peace of mind, and make your travel worry-free. You can check out SafetyWing which I have used and find it affordable and comprehensive and also Travel Insurance Master w hich is great because you can insert all your information and what kind of insurance you need and their system will pull out the best insurance for your need.

🚰 Can I Drink Tap Water in Mexico?

No, you can’t! Maybe in some areas or in some homes where they have installed water filters but to be on the safe side, I would say, never drink tap water in Mexico. Carry a water bottle with you and fill it up where you find available potable water sources. Most of the hotels have those.

🚗 Is It Safe to Drive in Mexico?

The short answer is: depending on where you are. Although in general if you stick to the main roads and don’t drive at night you should probably be safe. In lesser tourist areas you should probably check the local news to stay up to date. Driving in the Yucatan Peninsula is easy everywhere, even at night, although I would still avoid it. I recommend Discover Cars because the site offers the option to compare prices among different car rentals and you can add their own full coverage.

Read more on my guide on Renting a car in Mexico .

📱 Will My Phone Work in Mexico?

It will probably work, especially if you have a European or US phone, but your roaming rates may be to the stars (check with your SIM provider). Even if have an affordable international rate, you will be much better off by buying a Mexican SIM Card . It’s cheap, easy to set up, and it will keep you connected with your friends, family, and, more important, google Maps so you will never get lost!

🤕 Is It Safe to Travel to Mexico Right Now?

The short answer is, yes it is. However, there are parts of Mexico that are indeed troubled and you should avoid for now, and others that are super safe and easy to travel around.

Regardless of where you are you should always use some common sense rules such as, never flaunting expensive clothing, accessories, electronics, or money and keeping a low profile.

Read more on my detailed guide on safety in Mexico . If you are traveling to a specific destination I have got you covered as well:

• Is Cancun Safe?
• Is Tulum Safe?
• Is Puerto Vallarta safe?

💉 Do I Need Any Vaccine to Travel to Mexico?

No, there is no vaccine requirement (of any kind) to travel to Mexico

🇲🇽 Do I Need a Visa to Travel to Mexico?

If you are coming from the US or Europe you don’t need a VISA to enter Mexico. Once you get in you need to fill out a form that you need to keep with you until you leave. If you don’t have it you will pay a fine. Although the tourist visa for US and European travelers used to be 6 months long which you could easily renew by leaving the country for a couple of days and going back, nowadays they have been stricter. You may be asked how you would sustain your living and other similar questions. Sometimes they even ask you to show your credit cards. It seems odd but they can do that. If you intend to stay longer than a usual couple of weeks’ vacation time, just be honest and explain your plans. If you are not from the US, check this site to see if you need a visa

💸 Where Do I Find the Best Travel Deals for Mexico? 💸

A trip to Mexico can be expensive if you love to travel with all the comforts (like I do). There are a few tricks that will help you find the best deals. Here are my tips:

👉 DON’T travel in the high season, which is Holy week, Christmas and winter in general, and August. 👉 Book months in advance to find early booking discounts 👉 Use aggregators such as Discover Cars to find price comparisons and VRBO for vacation rentals! 👉 Look for packages flights+hotels on Expedia . 👉 Check on Booking.com or Hotels.com for hotel deals

Happy travels!!

Isabella is traveler and animal lover, a former tourism professional with an multinational background that lead her to Mexico, that she can proudly call home. After seven years in Cancun where she's still a resident, she took a bold leap, leaving her fancy job to embrace a nomadic lifestyle. She traveled all over Mexico, from Baja California to Ciudad Juarez, Oaxaca, Chiapas Hidalgo exploring and living like a local. Isabella founded Let's Travel to Mexico to help travelers plan their own trip on and off the beaten path in this beautiful land that she loves so dearly.

The Perfect 2024 Baja California Sur Road Trip Itinerary

12/27/2023 by Kristin Addis 6 Comments

The plane glided overhead, me eagerly watching the landscape below as we made for Cabo, cerulean lagoon after rolling mountains populating the landscape of the peninsula. 

One could see the entire width of Baja from the window seat. The mountains made way for washes, carved by water that used to roam through it in abundance, now literal wrinkles in time for wild mile after wild mile of that arid desert. Home to cacti, low bushes, and a surprising abundance of life both in the mountains and the sea, I was witnessing the rugged beauty of Baja California Sur unfold. 

I had two weeks ahead of me to road trip through Baja California Sur in Mexico, beginning in San Jose del Cabo. Since I didn’t get to head north this time around, I have invited Sally from Sally Sees , who visited most of the beautiful spots that I couldn’t make it to on this trip to share her experience. Here’s an epic Baja Sur itinerary for you: 

Table of Contents

1. Todos Santos

Upon landing in SJD, G and I picked up the rental car (more on avoiding scams later in this post) and immediately made our way for dreamy Todos Santos. 

Translating to ‘all saints,’ — which is a nice name, no? — Todos Santos is a designated pueblo magico, or ‘magic town’ in Baja. With its sweeping views of the Pacific and bird’s eye views of whales breaching on their way south, this artsy little town fits its designation.

To be honest I just chilled the F out in Todos Santos. The beach isn’t swimmable, due to big waves and rocks, but this is something you get used to in Baja. Book a place with a view and a pool and you’re set ( I loved this one! ).

Things to do in Todos Santos: 

• Hike the Sugar Port Trail: Get gorgeous views on this 2-mile hike along the coastline. Check the starting point here.
• 4×4: Want to access the wild side? The mountains are right there, too, and lots of fun 4×4 roading that those terrible rental cars can’t do for you! Rent in town or take a Jeep tour and let someone show you the best spots.
• Surf: Just south you’ll find a surfing wave if you’re into it, or consider hiking to palm beach for a lovely beach day.

Where to Eat in Todos Santos:

• Seafood: Santos Pecados Restaurant & Bar, Todos Santos not only has amazing service, but amazing seafood! The tequila fish is to die for (and doesn’t taste like tequila, don’t worry).
• Brunch: The vibe is on point at La Esquina Todos Santos. It’s mostly outdoors, open-air and has veggie and healthy options as well as great breakfast. There’s a farmer’s market on Sunday, too!
• Tacos: Tacos El Poblano in the evening for cheap al pastor and Tacos George’s for fish tacos during the day. They’re right next to each other with opposite hours.
• Dessert: Baja Tasty, near Santos Pecados, has amazing ice cream!

Where to Stay in Todos Santos:

The pool photo featured above was at Los Colibris Casitas , a gorgeous boutique hotel with plenty of privacy and awesome views. I loved the King Suite!

La Paz, meaning ‘the peace’ — also a nice name, right? — is the best jumping off point for the gorgeous beach pictured above and whale shark swims.

La Paz is certainly bigger than Todos Santos, and I recommend you follow all traffic rules perfectly because the police are out in full force, but once in town you’ll see why people love La Paz. The Sea of Cortez is beautiful and it’s perfectly positioned for amazing sunsets.

Things to do in La Paz:

The Sea of Cortez is brimming with life, and depending on the season, you can swim with all kinds of amazing things out there. Keep in mind for Espiritu Santo you’ll be required to wear a life jacket, which some people won’t mind and others (like me) will mind a lot!

• Swim with Whale Sharks: La Paz’s whale-shark season runs annually from October to May. Unlike in Cancun , you don’t have to wear a life jacket in the water if you’re wearing a wetsuit. It’s tightly regulated, and the only way to see them is via boat tour. It was too windy when we were there to go, but Alonso tours were so responsive, upfront, and helpful and friends of mine who went with them later loved them. If you prefer to book in English, you can do so here . (BTW both are much cheaper than some of the bigger companies, and both are good!)
• Visit Isla Espiritu Santo: Swim with sea lions in beautiful bays on this trip. When I saw this island from the plane, I was dying to visit, but life jackets are required even in the water. I understand it’s a regulation, but that would ruin it for me. If that wouldn’t bother you, sign up to do it here . I’ve heard great things, and sea lions are so interactive!
• Visit Balandra Beach: You’ll need a vehicle for this one, or a taxi. Balandra has strict capacity limits and usually operates in two time slots, morning and afternoon. Check with your accommodation for the latest restrictions as they change frequently. Or, take a boat or jetski over from a neighboring beach. We found a tour guide on Pichilingue who just added us to his boat and dropped us off, then picked us back up five hours later for 500 MXN total for two people. Ask around, haggle, and find yourself a private stretch of sand – there’s a lot of it, see below:

What to Eat in La Paz:

• Bakery and BBQ: Vrentino Restaurant has delicious pies and cakes and their grilled fish and pulled pork were on point!

Where to Stay in La Paz:

Since we splurged a bit on other spots, we went budget in La Paz at Araiza Palmira , which was fine, especially for the price, but had I known strong winds would have meant we’d spend a lot more time inside, I would have booked Hotel Catedral with that awesome rooftop instead.

3. Magdalena Bay

Single-handedly the most amazing thing I have ever done in my life was to see the gray whales in Magdalena Bay.

Each year between January – March, gray whales migrate from the cool waters of Alaska to the warm, sheltered lagoons off the Pacific Coast of Baja to mate and give birth.  

But something really special and unusual happens down here. The gray whales in Baja are friendly and interactive.

They approach boats, stick their heads out of the water to look at you (spy-hopping) and welcome pats and kisses. No one really knows why, but the experience is completely ethical. The whales are free to move as they please, and if you don’t give them the attention they want, they will find another boat that will!

Things to do in Magdalena Bay

• Gray whale watching: It’s all about the whales! To see them, you will head into the bay on a panga (skiff-style boat) with a local captain. It’s a game of patience waiting to find whales, and sometimes they won’t be interested in playing or interacting. We saw lots of whales from a distance on our first day, but it was our second day that we had some amazing encounters with a mamma who spent hours with our boat. 
• Snorkeling the sardine run: Magdalena Bay is still worth visiting if you can’t make it for the whale season. Between October – December each year there is a sardine run, which draws in predators like marlins, sea lions, dolphins and sharks that you can snorkel, free dive or dive with.

Where to Eat and Stay in Magdalena Bay

We opted for a package with Magdalena Bay Whales , one of the local tour companies. We glamped for two nights on an island in Magdalena Bay and had all our meals home cooked for us. It was one of the greatest travel experiences we have ever had, and we can’t recommend this enough!

As soon as I saw the iconic photo of Mulege, with the river snaking through a grove of palm trees and arid mountains rising up in the background, I knew I had to visit.

Mulege is a very small town known as ‘the oasis town’, for its large freshwater source in the middle of the desert, the Rio Mulege (Mulege River).

A historic Jesuit mission, some of the best beaches in Baja and a picturesque oasis, there is enough in Mulege to see and do. But it’s also the perfect place to slow down, relax and take it easy.

Things to do in Mulege

• Visit the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé: A Jesuit mission that was built here for its freshwater source. The main drawcard of the mission is the vantage point to see the river and the palm grove below.
• See the oasis in the desert : It is such a rare sight in Baja to see fresh water and lush greenery, the Rio Mulege really is an amazing spectacle. We wandered along the banks of the river near town, but the best view was from the mission.
• The incredible beaches of Bahia Concepcion : Between Loreto and Mulege is this enclosed bay, with dozens of empty beaches. Some of the best in Baja, the water is bright blue, calm and so scenic with tiny offshore islands and mountains everywhere you look.

Where to Eat in Mulege

• Beer and bar snacks: Mulege Brewing Company is the main watering hole in Mulege, with craft beers on tap, pizzas and other bar snacks.
• Street food stalls: For some cheap local tacos, burritos and aguas frescas, head to Mulege’s main plaza Jardin Corona and see what stalls are open.
• Mexican fare: Try Restaurant Bar Los Equipales for a typical Mexican restaurant with colourful tablecloths, all the usual suspects on the menu and friendly service.

Where to Stay in Mulege

• In town: There is nothing fancy in Mulege. Accommodation is typically in self-contained casita-style rooms. Clementine’s is the best option.
• On the beach: There are some really unique stays along the beach in Bahia Concepcion. Sleep on a sailboat in the bay or go glamping .

Loreto exceeded all our expectations and turned out to be our favourite destination in Baja. We think it is completely underrated! There are some retired snowbirds who come down for the winter, but you avoid the crowds and craziness of Cabo, with a real laidback Baja vibe.

Loreto is the second of just two pueblo magicos in Baja Sur, and it totally deserves its title. It’s a small, historic town with charming plazas, a waterfront Malecon and so many outdoor adventures on sea and land.

Things to do in Loreto

• Explore the historic centro : Home to the first Jesuit mission in Baja, tree-lined pedestrian streets, cafes in the plaza and a waterfront Malecon boardwalk, we wandered aimlessly for hours.
• Hike Tabor Canyon : A stunning hike into a desert canyon, requiring some rock scrambling and a bit of intense climbing but we loved it. You can go solo ( follow this trail ) or take a local guide.
• Visit Isla Coronado: One of five islands in the Loreto Bay National Park, Coronado has the best beaches in Loreto. We took a boat tour out to the island, spotting dolphins, sea lions and blue-footed boobie birds on the way.
• Get underwater in the Sea of Cortez: Jacques Cousteau did not call this the aquarium of the world for nothing! Snorkel, free dive or scuba dive to discover sea lions, dolphins, whales, rays, turtles and other marine life. Blue Nation Baja is a great dive shop.
• Go blue whale watching: Witnessing the biggest animal in the world up close was an incredible experience. From February – March blue whales hang out in the Bay of Loreto. We learnt so much from the marine biologist on our tour with Loreto Sea & Land .
• Visit the San Javier Mission: The one-hour drive into the desert was so scenic. Another Jesuit mission, built in the middle of nowhere because there was a freshwater source there. The colonial-style building in the desert landscape was so unique. Drive your rental car or take a tour.

Where to Eat in Loreto

• Tacos: El Rey del Taco is a Loreto institution with the best Baja-style fish tacos. Asadero Súper Burro is the go-to for meat tacos, with juicy arrachera and asado.
• Seafood: El Caloron serves up all kinds of seafood, overlooking the waterfront on the Malecon. Hotel Oasis does a clam bake buffet on the beach every Saturday night.
• Coffee: La Route café in the plaza was some of the nicest coffee we had in Baja.
• Desserts: La Creperia for amazing crepes with all kinds of toppings. Try a traditional southern Mexican marquesita from Mare Lindo food truck (check their Facebook for their current location).

Where to Stay in Loreto

• Top end: There are some lovely boutique hotels in Loreto. Many resorts are out of town, but it’s worth staying in the heart of the action. Try Posada Las Flores or La Mision Loreto.
• Budget-friendly: There are some cute apartments on Airbnb for something private but affordable. We stayed in this apartment and it was the perfect location.

6. La Ventana

La Ventana is a favorite for kite boarders and lovers of the ocean. I heard it’s so-named for the window of time in the morning before the winds pick up and create the perfect conditions for kiters.

There was a weeklong wind storm that foiled most of my plans for the Sea of Cortez and Isla Cerralvo, which doesn’t have the life jacket requirement.

Though I didn’t see as much as I’d hoped, we nearly managed to get in with a HUGE pod of dolphins and we swam with sea lions as well. You can see some of it in the video below:

When the conditions are better, I’ve seen amazing videos with Orcas, Sperm Whales, and big fish. It’s enough to make me want to try again!

Things to do in La Ventana:

• Snorkel and freedive: Isla Cerralvo is typically pretty good for swimming with sea lions and having better clarity than other areas closer to shore for snorkeling. Again, I got unlucky when I went, but we still swam with a few of these guys. It’s best to book this directly with a boat captain, as hotels will double the price. Check out my where to stay section for help on getting a cheaper (and just as good) boat.
• Kite Board: La Ventana is famous as a kiting spot. Don’t know how? No worries, take some lessons from Girl on a Board .
• Mountain Bike: This isn’t so much my sport, but if you’re into it, there are many trails through the mountains that frame La Ventana.
• Check out the hot springs: They’re right on the beach! Find them here . Be careful, some of the areas are suuuuper hot!

What to Eat in La Ventana:

• Tacos: The best tacos I had in Baja Sur were right here . It’s just a little yellow stand with a friendly female owner and 20-pesos taco heaven.
• Seafood: Mariscos El Cone has yummy grilled fish and the portions are huge!
• Pizza: If you want some pasta or pizza, San Siro – Risto.Pizza.Bar does it well!

Where to Stay in La Ventana:

I stayed at an Airbnb (pictured above) that was a little off the beaten path but beautiful and affordable. I loved the landscaping, the remoteness, the sunrise and sunset views, and the cool way it was constructed into little pods! Ask the host to help you book a boat excursion directly with a captain.

7. Santiago

This desert oasis in the interior of Baja Sur was magical, and I highly recommend checking out the hot springs and the Canon de la Zorra. Consider spending the night , as well!

It’s a dirt road for much of the drive out of Santiago, but it was passable in our chevy sedan rental. I know things can change after the rain, so reconsider this trip if it’s been pouring lately.

Things to do in Santiago:

• Sol De Mayo: The waterfall pictured above is truly magical. The water is crisp, there are several crystal clear pools of water, and bonus, there are little fish in there who will nibble your feet – hey natural fish spa! Entrance is 150 mxn per person via the Rancho Ecologico Sol De Mayo , which I recommend staying at, too!
• Santa Rita Hot Spring: There are two hot springs in the area, but this is the prettier of the two. Access it via San Jorge. It’s easy to hit both the waterfall and the hot spring in an afternoon! Entrance is 150 mxn per person, and you can camp here as well. Avoid visiting on weekends when it can get busy. It’s also closed on Wednesdays.
• Canyon tours: I didn’t do this, so can’t recommend a specific tour, but if you’re down for canyoning and going through caves, you can book a tour in Santiago or nearby to do this!

Where to Stay in Santiago:

You can camp at the Santa Rita Hot Springs if you have your own gear, or you can spend the night at the Rancho at the waterfall on Airbnb . There’s no electricity, but it looks like a wonderful experience and one I’d probably do next time!

8. San Jose Del Cabo

I have a confession to make, I stayed at an all inclusive in San Jose Del Cabo and I honestly loved it, though I felt torn, too!

My reason for going back down to Cabo was to swim with sharks out of Cabo San Lucas, but I don’t find that Cabo San Lucas has many redeeming qualities, so I decided to book Garrett and I into a fancy hotel in San Jose with a gorgeous view. I honestly hadn’t realized until after I booked it that it was an all inclusive!

The great part: How easy it was to just relax and enjoy the surroundings. We didn’t have to think about anything, and I thought that the food was good.

The bad part? All inclusive tends to inspire a lot of excess and therefore tend to be quite wasteful, I also didn’t appreciate all of the plastic that they used in the hotel. I’m talking everything from shampoo bottles to the device you use to order room service (that has to be torn out of the plastic to charge it anyways) were wrapped up. I really wish they wouldn’t!

That said, for one night of bliss, we were super careful to only order what we would eat, and if you’d like the same experience, this is how I paid for it entirely in points, and this is where you can book at yourself.

Things to do in San Jose Del Cabo:

There’s all kinds of sea life at the end of the peninsula where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific. At any given time of year, you could see whales, different kinds of sharks, Mobula rays, and more.

I recommend freediving with sharks with Baja Shark Experience, who also run Magdalena Bay trips. The trip was a bit pricey, but totally worth it when we got to swim with a blue shark for over 2 hours! 

Road trip itinerary

When planning your Baja Sur road trip, you have two options in terms of the route:

1. Do a round trip, renting and returning a car from the same place. SJD (Los Cabos International Airport) is the best place for this, and you will fly in and out of this airport.

2. Do a one-way rental, starting from Los Cabos and returning the car in Loreto. You will fly into SJD and fly out of LTO Loreto International Airport.

Our road trips were both return trips, starting and finishing in Cabo, and the route we shared here is for a return trip.

But if you want to do a one-way trip, we would recommend this route:

• San Jose del Cabo
• Todos Santos
• Magdalena Bay

Renting a car at the airport in San Jose Del Cabo

If you’ve ever rented a car before in Mexico , you’ll know that what you see is not what you get in terms of the price online. Even if they promise that it includes all of the insurance, you will still arrive in Mexico only to be told that the insurance costs extra. I’m always prepared for this in Cancun , but in Baja Sur it’s the worst, where the price can quadruple.

For this reason, I recommend not booking and paying for a car ahead of time, but rather haggling in person when you’re there. Make sure that you get everything clearly in writing, do calculations for the currency rate, and film the car before renting. It’s one of the more scammy rental experiences I’ve had – just Google any car rental agency down there and you’ll see nothing but one star reviews. But if you know how to play the game you’ll be fine. We were able to get a 16 day sedan rental from Sixt for $480, which wasn’t bad!

The best way to get a good price is to take a van to Hertz or Sixt and negotiate in person, or only talk to the people at the actual labeled booths right near the exit of the airport. Always be willing to walk away.

It’s annoying, but it’s just the way it’s done down there!

Renting or returning a car in Loreto

There are a number of car rental agencies at the airport in Loreto. If you don’t want to do a round trip and drive all the way back to San Jose del Cabo, you can coordinate to pick your car up in Cabo and return it in Loreto or vice versa.

The same rules apply about the confusing pricing and insurance add-ons if you’re picking up a car in Loreto.

Loreto has a small international airport that has limited flights within Mexico and to some US and Canadian cities, so you can start or end your Baja California Sur road trip there.

All in all, Baja has so many adventures, and there’s something enchanting about the way the cacti stretch right out to the sea, and this road trip through Baja Sur gives you an amazing taste of it. Enjoy the starry nights, the calmness, and the amazing aquatic adventures!

About Sally: Sally Rodrick is the voice behind Sally Sees . She has spent months travelling in Mexico and Central America, and helps thousands of readers discover the magic of Latin America. Sharing detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.

About Kristin Addis

Kristin Addis is the founder and CEO of Be My Travel Muse, a resource for female travelers all around the world since 2012. She's traveled solo to over 65 countries and has brought over 150 women on her all-female adventure tours from Botswana to the Alaskan tundra.

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12/18/2020 at 8:38 pm

Another great write-up of a trip I’ve always wanted to do, although I think, given the time, I’d prefer to drive down from California, rather than fly. Did you guys have many problems driving around in the bigger cities?

Kristin says

12/20/2020 at 3:54 pm

The police pulled us over for ‘running a yellow’ in La Paz, which is obviously not against the law but he just wanted a bribe. I’d just show your license rather than handing it over and only keep a small amount of money in your wallet to show, like 100-200, to get it squared away if it does happen. Just keep talking and keep it light. The longer you keep him talking the more he’ll just want to take what you offer and get it over with.

12/24/2020 at 1:09 pm

Good advice – thanks!

01/15/2021 at 7:14 pm

Thank you for this. Very Helpful

Claire says

07/02/2021 at 3:31 pm

Hi, Thanks for this info, super helpful! I have a question, do you know if there is always water in the santiago waterfalls? Or is that seasonal?

07/03/2021 at 10:29 am

I believe it’s always going.

A First Timer’s Road Trip Guide for Driving to Baja, Mexico

With its warm climate, delicious and affordable food, nice beaches, and fun-loving people, a road trip to Baja is just what the doctor ordered. In order to make your first timer’s trip as seamless as possible, I’ve pulled together a list of the most important things you need to know.

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Baja California is one of the quickest and easiest international getaways you can take (depending on where you live), and one of my personal favorites. From Los Angeles , the drive to almost anywhere in northern Baja (Baja Norte) is usually 4 hours or less, making it a near-effortless weekend trip if you’re looking for a change of scenery. With its warm climate, delicious and affordable food, nice beaches, and fun-loving people, a road trip to Baja is just what the doctor ordered. 

Of course, since Baja California is part of Mexico (despite what the name would lead you to believe), there are some special preparations you need to make, and things you need to know before you go, in order to make your the road trip seamless. 

RELATED: 5 Things To Do For A Relaxing Weekend in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

A First-Timer’s Road Trip Guide for Driving to Baja, Mexico

Transportation.

Before my first visit to Baja on a weekend trip to Ensenada a few years ago, I was actually really nervous about the drive. I pictured poorly maintained roads, nonexistent cell service, and all the usual horrors you’re trained to hear from mass media about driving in Mexico as a tourist. What I was thrilled to discover is that driving to Baja is actually pretty painless, especially if you time your trip well with the border crossing (more on that below). Your pre-trip preparation will vary depending on whether you’re renting a car or bringing your own: 

1. Renting a Car

In the US, not all rental car companies will allow you to take your vehicle across an international border, so be sure to check in advance with the company directly before booking. Alternatively, you can rent a car at the Tijuana International Airport . Leave your car safely on the San Diego side of the airport and take the bridge over the border to the Tijuana side. From there, follow the signs for rental car companies and take your pick. 

2. Driving Your Own Car

If you’re driving your own car, depending on where you’re planning to go in Baja, I’d recommend taking a car that can handle bumpy roads. While the majority of the roads you come across will be paved and maintained, some pockets of Baja (like Valle de Guadalupe ) will have dirt roads you’ll have to maneuver. 

TIP: Regardless of whether you rent or take your own car, Mexico requires all travelers to have an auto insurance policy that specifically covers incidentals in Mexico. Most (if not all) US policies, and your credit card policies, won’t be accepted. So be sure to check with your existing insurance provider for a quote, or purchase Mexican auto insurance from a separate company to cover the days you’ll be visiting. This is very important, because if you get in an accident while in Mexico and you do not have insurance, you may have a really difficult time going back to your home country until the incident is sorted out. This is the Mexican auto insurance provider I have used during my last couple of visits.

Crossing the Border

The two main border crossing locations to get to Baja can be found in San Diego (San Ysidro) and Tecate. While San Ysidro has 26 lanes and is the more convenient route if you’re coming from California , it’s also typically more congested, being surrounded on both sides by the largest international border cities in the world. In fact, over 50 million people cross over the San Ysidro access point between San Diego and Tijuana every year, which makes this the busiest of any border crossing in the entire world. 

Tecate, which is more convenient from Arizona and inland California (but is generally pretty removed from any main highways), only has 2 lanes but tends to have less traffic. 

When deciding which border crossing location to take, consider each access point’s wait time and many additional minutes the detour (to Tecate, for example) would add to your route. You’ll also want to consider the following: 

Time Your Road Trip During Non-Peak Hours: The time of day you leave can dramatically impact the experience you have at the border. When I went to Ensenada for Labor Day weekend, I drove back to Los Angeles at lunchtime on Labor Day, and it took 11 (yes, ELEVEN) hours to get through the border alone. But, when I drove back to Los Angeles after a recent trip to Valle de Guadalupe, crossing the border took me a mere 25 minutes. Try to plan the time you arrive at the border to be during non-peak hours (avoiding rush hours or daylight hours on popular holiday weekends). Leave at night or before dawn if you can, and you’ll save tons of unnecessary time and stress. 

Check the US Customs Site: For real-time updates on current wait times at the border. You can use this resource to compare borders and identify the most ideal time to make your way there. 

Apply for Sentri: If you plan on crossing the border into Baja frequently, Sentri will allow you expedited clearance for up to 5 years. Note that if you cross the border with a Sentri card, every passenger in your car must also have Sentri.

Bring Provisions for the Road: Snacks, water, books, a downloaded movie, your favorite playlist – anything you might need to pass the time just in case there is a wait that’s longer than expected. 

Where to Go in Baja, Mexico

Tijuana : Tijuana is the biggest city in Baja. Sitting right on the opposite side of the border from San Diego, it’s pretty mind-blowing how starkly different the two cities are from one another. Tijuana is buzzing and active and admittedly a bit chaotic. It also has had the unfortunate luck of being marked as one of the most dangerous cities to visit, but during the day (my only experience with the city), it’s alive with good food and friendly people. In my opinion, it’s a great quick-hit introduction to Mexico if it’s your first time in the country, and a good way to acclimate before you make your way a bit further south. 

Tecate : The other border crossing option, Tecate, is a significantly smaller town (compared to Tijuana). It has a cute, though rugged, downtown area that feels calm and intriguing – the kind of place where you might find an ultra-local tacos al pastor stand perched on the sidewalk in front of a hip coffee shop serving pour over and cocoa-dusted cafe de olla. Outside of Tecate, the surrounding terrain is beautiful. Rolling hills and rocky mountains that reminded me in every way of Joshua Tree and the dramatic desert landscapes in inland California. 

Ensenada : About an hour to an hour and a half south of the Tijuana border, Ensenada is a fairly large coastal city with a super laidback air to it. Like Tecate, I felt like I could easily find a good mix of old and new here, with authentic eateries and mom & pop shops along with newer cafes and breweries throughout the city.  Check out my Ensenada recommendations here.

Valle de Guadalupe : Inland of Ensenada by about 30 minutes, and easily accessible from both Tijuana and Tecate’s border crossings, Valle de Guadalupe is Baja’s wine region. Here, you’ll find rolling hills, wineries that (in my opinion) rival many of the places we flock to in California, and some absolutely mind-blowing, innovative food.   Check out my Valle de Guadalupe recommendations here .

Ready to Hit the Road for Baja?

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Read This Next:

• 5 Things To Do For A Relaxing Weekend in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico
• Where to Stay in Valle de Guadalupe: Lumi Hotel
• Where to Stay in Valle de Guadalupe: The UvaUva Eco Retreat
• How to Spend a Weekend in Ensenada
• The Coolest Woman-Owned Boutique Hotels Mexico City

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Hey there! I’m Rachel, a travel writer and a full-time advertising / marketing expert. In 2019, I traveled more than 25 times while working 9 to 5, and since then I’ve committed myself to living a more adventurous life, even if it means bringing my laptop along for the ride. Are you hungry to travel more, but overwhelmed with how to juggle work and play? You’ve come to the right place!

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• Updated on: December 18, 2022

10 Responses

Great post! Some of the unpaved roads in Valle de Guadalupe do get unpassable in rainy season. Only rainy in December and January here;)

My muddy car from last December’s road trip is a testament to this 😀

Great content, thanks for sharing!

Thanks! Glad you found it useful!

thanks for sharing, super helpful!

You’re welcome!

glad you found this helpful!

Hi, thanks for the great content. Curious how do you cross from the San Diego side of the Tijuana airport to the Mexican side of the airport, to rent a car? It looks like the CBX bridge requires that everyone using the bridge needs to be flying through the Tijuana airport – I would just be looking to cross to Mexico side so i can rent a car in Mexico Thanks!

Hi Jas! Unfortunately, you need to have a flight in order to use CBX. You should be able to find a rental car company in San Diego that allows you to drive into Mexico (will likely vary from dealer to dealer, and you may need to pay for additional insurances). Hope that helps!

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LA to Ensenada: A Baja Family Road Trip

Considering a family road trip into Baja, Mexico? Driving into Baja Norte with kids is easy with a little preparation. We’ve put together all the details to help you plan a smooth itinerary for a Baja family road trip from Los Angeles down into Baja Norte, to enjoy the sun, fish tacos, and a bit of Mexican culture.

This Baja family road trip starts in Los Angeles, then heads down through San Diego, and into Mexico to explore two towns in Baja California Norte: Puerto Nuevo, and Ensenada. You’ll then travel through the famous wine country of Valle Guadalupe, stop in Tecate, then cross back into the United States and head to the beautiful town of Palm Springs, CA (with a quick stop at Disney) before returning to Los Angeles.

This itinerary as we planned it takes about two weeks, though you can easily add additional stops in Mexico, or stay longer in any location. Use this route to get Baja California family road trip ideas, then modify it to fit your schedule and the age of your kids.

When possible, we’ll include alternate routes or additional stops that may be of interest.

We drove this Baja California loop when our kids were 4 and 7. It was part of our Family Year Out ( what’s that? ), and a great introduction to travel in Mexico. We later spent six weeks in mainland Mexico.

This article may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase.   As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. All our recommendations are independent and are in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.

At the bottom of the post,  Download a free License Plate Game  for the kids to play on your Baja Norte family road trip!

Lodging: Booking.com Flight Deals: Skyscanner Rental Cars: Discover Cars Airport Transfers: Welcome Pickups

Digital SIM Cards: Airalo eSIM Travel Insurance: SafetyWing

Table of Contents

Where is Baja Norte?

Baja Norte is the Northernmost state in Mexico, officially called Baja California Norte. Below Baja Norte is Baja Sur (Baja California Sur), which extends to the bottom of the Baja peninsula, where you’ll find the resort town of Cabo San Lucas. A lot of references to “Baja” or “Baja California” often are referring to the more southern towns of Baja Sur.

What is the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja Norte on a Family Road Trip?

Summer is the peak time to visit Ensenada and other towns in Baja Norte. Summer brings average temps in the high 80s, making for great beach weather.

Many people visit on weekends from California all year round, though temperatures are cooler. We visited in early December and found pleasant temps in the mid-60s, which are great for walking around, but not for sitting on the beach.

Is Mexico Safe for a Family Road Trip?

Like any place, you need to be aware of your surroundings, but we never felt unsafe driving or walking around Baja California. While there we saw distinct police and military presence but were never stopped at a checkpoint.

Is it Safe to Drive in Mexico with Kids?

Yes, it is generally safe to drive in Mexico. Check out everything you need to know about driving in Mexico to answer all of your questions about driving your own vehicle or renting a vehicle in Mexico, including what insurance you’ll need.

Check Prices: Discover Car Rentals

You should also be prepared to pay tolls along the main roads in Mexico, though you can pay these in either dollars or pesos. Tolls are generally about $2 USD/40 Pesos per toll plaza.

Baja Norte Family Road Trip Itinerary

This Baja California family road trip is the third leg of our  Family Year Out . We started with a long cross-country road trip , and then spent over a month on a loop through Canada and the American Northwest .

We are traveling with our 4-year-old and our 7-year-old, so we try to limit our time in the car to 4-5 hours a day. All activities we recommend are appropriate for families with young kids. Due to the current environment, we are mostly focusing on outdoor activities, with a few exceptions.

On this road trip, we attempted to slow down and stay longer in fewer stops. Right now, we feel our ideal pace is at least three nights in each location- with exceptions for single nights where we are just passing through to break up a long drive. The longer we travel the less we want to pack up the car each day!

Need help keeping the kids entertained? We’ve got the best road trip activities from coloring books to sing-alongs.

Start: Los Angeles, CA

We will officially start this loop in Los Angeles. We drove down from Northern California to spend Thanksgiving with family and then started our road trip from there.

Favorite LA Hotel: Rodeway Inn Melrose .

We love this hotel- it’s modern, and clean, with an interior courtyard, free basic breakfast, and easy gated parking at street level. It’s close to Hollywood, with a grocery store you can walk to.

Book Now: Rodeway Inn Melrose

Alternate Stop: Solvang, CA

If you are starting from Northern California, our two favorite stops to break up the drive to Los Angeles are Solvang and San Luis Obispo.

Solvang is a cute Danish-themed town with windmills, lots of gift shops selling clogs and other Danish memorabilia, and great sweet treats like Aebleskiver (a sort of donut) and Flodeboller (delicious chocolate-covered meringue treat).

Affordable Hotel: Atterdag Inn .

This place has modern decor, and even has bunk beds in some rooms for the kids!

Book Now: Atterdag Inn

Alternate Stop: San Luis Obispo, CA

San Luis Obispo is approx 70 miles north of Solvang and is approx halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. There is a lovely strip of stores to browse downtown and plenty of restaurant options. You’ll find a farmer’s market downtown on Thursday nights. Make sure to check out the Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa. Built in 1772, it is lovely inside with flowers and birds painted on the walls.

Affordable Hotel: Avenue Inn Downtown . An affordable hotel within walking distance of downtown San Luis Obispo.

Book Now: Avenue Inn Downtown

San Diego, CA- 3 nights

There’s so much to do in San Diego! Explore Balboa Park, visit the USS Midway, lounge on the beach, eat delicious tacos, and more!

We stayed downtown, close to Balboa Park, but drove to most of our activities. We enjoyed a day exploring La Jolla and took the ferry to Coronado for an afternoon.

Affordable Hotel on the Beach: Ocean Park Inn . If beach time is high on your to-do list, this hotel is located in Pacific Beach, the hotel has an outdoor pool, hot tub, and breakfast is included.

Book Now: Ocean Park Inn

Affordable Hotel Close to Downtown: Best Western Plus Bayside . This hotel is close to downtown, within walking distance to Little Italy and the harbor where you’ll find the Maritime Museum, USS Midway, and more.

Book Now: Best Western Plus Bayside

Border Crossing: El Chaparral/Tijuana, Mexico

Driving across the border from the United States into Mexico at the El Chaparral crossing just south of San Diego is simple. We had our car automatically photographed but never had to stop to speak with anyone or show our passports. The actual border crossing took less than a minute.

Keep in mind that you will need an FMM form (Forma Migratoria Multiple) for each passenger ages 2 and up. This form can be filled out online and is free if you are driving across the border and staying in Mexico for 7 days or less.

If you are staying longer, there is a fee of approx. $30 USD per person. No one ever asked to see ours, but it is best to have a hard copy with you as well just in case it is requested.

We did not stop in Tijuana, although we hear that this town has had a bit of a renaissance, with craft breweries, and the hip Telefonica Gastro Park . Since this was our kids’ first experience in Mexico we opted for a calmer introduction.

Puerto Nuevo, Mexico- 2 nights

Puerto Nevo is a very small town that started as a fishing village but has grown around the tourist trade. The town consists of two streets heading off the main highway down toward the ocean, each with an arch proclaiming the town’s name. There are four cross streets packed with restaurants and vendors.

Puerto Nuevo is known for its local lobster preparation, you’ll see “langosta” on most menus. A lot of people stop for lunch or dinner here on their way to or from Ensenada. Cruise ships that stop in Ensenada also make excursions up here. We choose this small town as a quiet place to introduce our kids to Mexico.

Affordable Hotel: Puerto Neuvo Baja Hotel & Villas This resort was pretty empty when we were there. The kids loved the playground but would have had more fun if there were other kids around. There is a lovely outdoor pool, and views of the ocean, though you need to go to town to actually get down onto the sand.

We could have relaxed more here if the weather was warmer. They also have an indoor pool but it was heavily under construction during our visit.

We had a junior suite with a queen bed and a living room/dining area with a pull-out sofa for the kids. It was great to have a table and four chairs for breakfast, as well as a terrace with a table and chairs for picnic lunches.

From this hotel, which is gated with security, you can easily walk just a few minutes into town. There is a sidewalk leading right to the arches at the top of town. You can also walk to the large Calimax grocery store in town.

Book Now: Puerto Neuvo Baja Hotel & Villas

Alternate Stop: Los Gaviotas

Los Gaviotas is 4 km north of Puerto Nuevo. This gated community has furnished rental houses suitable for families. A lot of families rent these for larger get-togethers, then drive to Puerto Neuvo when they want to go into town. Las Gaviotas is known to have clear, sunny beaches when the fog has rolled in just to the south.

We wanted to interact with locals as much as possible and be able to walk into a town, so we opted for Puerto Nuevo, but many families love their time at Los Gaviotas.

Ensenada, Mexico- 3 nights

After spending a few days in Puerto Neuvo, Ensenada will feel like a big city. There is Starbucks and McDonalds, and a Walmart and Costco on the outskirts of town.

For more details, see the full itinerary for 4 days in Ensenada .

Downtown Ensenada is very walkable. The tourist shopping street is Av. Adolfo Lopez Mateos. On the weekends, the cross streets of Castillo to Alvarado are closed to pedestrians, and restaurants have more outdoor seating.

Continue up this street for lots of restaurants and vendors selling everything from pottery to T-shirts. The strip ends around Av. Ruiz. If you head away from the ocean on Av. Ruiz you’ll find a quieter area with a few coffee shops, restaurants, and shops that are a bit less tourist-focused.

You can also walk to the Malecon and other sites in downtown Ensenada. Plan to drive out to La Bufadora- a natural blowhole that is fun to watch. Be aware that the entrance to the site is lined with vendor stalls.

Affordable Hotel: Hotel Cortez There was so much we loved about this hotel. It has a great location on the nicer end of the shopping strip, cute decor, and a small heated pool. They have covered parking beneath the hotel for easy in and out. Our only complaint was that the beds were uncomfortably hard.

Book Now: Hotel Cortez

Alternate Hotel: Hotel Casa del Sol For our next visit, I’d love to stay here just down the block from Hotel Cortez. The outside is more blocky and modern but the inside looks adorable, and they get great reviews for comfort.

Book Now: Hotel Casa del Sol

Valle de Guadalupe

From Ensenada, drive through the Valle de Guadalupe on your way back towards the US border at Tecate. This is an increasingly famous wine region of Baja, so you’ll find lots of wineries with tasting rooms, high-end restaurants, and modern architecture.

We drove this in one day on our way to Tecate, but you could easily make this a day trip from Ensenada, or stay at one of the wineries in the valley for a few days. Adults often spend a relaxing weekend in this area, but we didn’t find too many places that were inexpensive and family-friendly.

Tecate, Mexico

In the border town of Tecate head to the town square called Parque Miguel Hidalgo. There’s plenty of seating, blooming Bourgainvillia, a gazebo, and a lovely water fountain. Around the square, you’ll find multiple Michoacan-style dessert stores (Mexican fruit popsicles) and restaurants.

Don’t Miss This Bakery: El Mejor Pan de Tecate . This bakery has rows and rows of delicious baked goods from sweet empanadas to cookies to full pies. Just two blocks east of the main square one Tijuana-Mexicali (rt 2). There are a few seats in front of the store in the shade, or you can take your goodies back to the park.

Border Crossing: Tecate, Mexico

From the center of Tecate, the border is just a few blocks north. However, finding the line for the border can be a bit tricky. Head away from the border, south to Blvd. Defensores.

If you are leaving from the southeast corner of the park, head south on Blvd Universidad, then turn left onto Blvd. Defensores right after the McDonalds.

Stay on this heading east until you see signs for the border. Follow the signs until you reach the line for the border. You will then turn east to follow the line of cars until you reach the back of the line. Plan to be in line for several hours.

This border crossing has limited hours- it currently closes at 2 pm on weekdays. Alternately, drive to Tijuana to cross there where the border is open 24 hours.

Palm Springs, CA- 3 nights

Palm Springs is known for its sunshine and golf courses, and though we do not golf, we loved our stay there! The downtown is easy to stroll around- restaurants, shops, ice cream parlors, and lots of art installations. The fabulous desserts at the famous Sherman’s Deli and Baker y are worth the trip on their own.

Take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway to the top of Chino Canyon. The world’s largest rotating tramcar, the floor rotates as it ascends, taking you up over 6,000 feet! Make sure to dress warmly, it’s often 40 degrees cooler at the top than the bottom!

There’s so much more to do in Palm Springs, from desert tours to an air museum focused on WWII planes. Don’t forget to schedule in time to relax at the pool!

Affordable Hotel: Marquis Villas Resort This hotel offers suites that are great for families at an affordable price. The rooms are not especially modern but they are comfortable and spacious. I’ve lived in New York apartments smaller than this suite. The kids ran around counting the sinks in our suite- I believe they found four!

This hotel is within easy walking of downtown, including lots of restaurants. Some hotels in Palm Springs are “Adults Only”, but this one is very family-friendly. They have a lovely outdoor pool (heated), a children’s pool (1-foot depth), and a hot tub. Bonus: They have free laundry on the premises.

Book Now: Marquis Villas Resort

Additional Stop: Disneyland, Anaheim, CA

We gifted our girls a few days at Disneyland for Christmas, so we headed from Palm Springs to Anaheim. We arrived, checked into our hotel, and explored Downtown Disney, then spent the next two days in the parks.

Affordable Hotel: Hotel Lulu We loved this hotel, it has some of the most comfortable beds we’ve slept in! It has cute decor, a heated pool, and is only a ten-minute walk to the parks. The ART shuttle to the parks also stops right outside the hotel if you prefer to not walk.

Book Now: Hotel Lulu

Final Road Trip Stop: Los Angeles, CA

You’ll end this Baja family road trip back in sunny Los Angeles. There’s a ton to explore in Los Angles if you have a few days here..

We’ll be spending more time in Mexico, check out our six week itinerary in Mexico .

Can I Pay with US Dollars in Mexico? Do I Need Pesos?

Many places in Baja Norte will accept US dollars, but we highly recommend paying in the local currency of Mexican pesos. Those places that do accept US dollars often can only offer you change in pesos. Use an ATM in a supermarket or at a bank to get will pesos, which you will need. Many restaurants and vendor stalls do not accept credit cards.

What Should I Pack for a Baja Road Trip with Kids?

We always recommend not leaving home without travel insurance and a safe car seat or booster seat for your kids. Make sure to have all your border paperwork in order.

Kids Travel Car Seats

For car seats, when we’re renting a car, or planning to use taxis or Ubers around town, we bring our Mifold Travel Car Seats. However, these are no longer available. We recommend the SafeRiderVest , which is approved for kids 3+, between 40 and 60 pounds.

For older kids, try the Bubblebum Booster or the Hiccapop Booster , these boosters are approved for 4 and up, from 60-100 pounds. Both these products are inflatable, and so easy to carry when not in use.

Travel Insurance

We use SafetyWing Travel Insurance, it’s the easiest and most cost-effective insurance for long-term travel. We love that one kid (under 10) per adult on the trip is included at no additional cost. Depending on the length of your trip, it may also cover any mandatory quarantines that you encounter.

Check Prices: SafetyWing Travel Insurance

All the other details? We’ve got you covered! We drive a “not-so-huge” Subaru Outback, so space matters. Check out our list of the best road trip supplies and gear.

FAQ: Baja Family Road Trip from LA

Of course, making an effort to speak Spanish will be appreciated, but you can get by without speaking Spanish. Make sure you have a translation app loaded onto your phone so you can type in words if communication is difficult. This is also a great way to learn new vocabulary- it’s how we learned how to order our coffees with skim milk- “leche desnatada”! We have been learning Spanish as a family, with both learning apps and podcasts. We found that while the kids were a bit lackluster in their enthusiasm before entering Mexico, once they realized how useful it was, they were much more engaged in learning new vocabulary.

We always prefer to plan our itineraries ahead of time- with kids we find it less stressful to know our route and where we will be staying each night. You may feel differently, or have older kids who can roll with the changes more easily- if so, good for you! We found that in early December, there was plenty of availability at most hotels, some were even offering us deals to stay an additional night. Planning ahead is one of our top family travel tips- you can check out the other family travel tips !

There You Have It: Baja and SoCal Road Trip

Our best itinerary for a fun family road trip from Southern California into Baja, Mexico based on our own experience driving this route with our kids.

Which stops are you most excited about? Any recommendations for alternate stops?

Planning a road trip with kids? Our best advice is packed into a post of road trip travel tips !

Cynthia Matthews von Berg is the founder of Sharing the Wander. She is a passionate traveler, mom, and travel coach specializing in long-term travel and family travel. She and her family embarked on a Family Gap Year in 2021, and haven't looked back.

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A major road to Baja California's tourist spots is closed for construction. Here's what to know

What to know.

• Closures will occur daily beginning April 16 from 11 p.m. to 4 a.m. and intermittently during the day.
• The traffic changes are expected to last until August 31, according to Mayor Montserrat Caballero.
• They recommend taking alternate routes and planning your trips in advance

The construction of the Elevated Viaduct by the federal government in Baja California has caused a series of complications for those who travel on Avenida Internacional or International Avenue, one of the main roadways that connect the Zona del Río with Playas in Tijuana.

Starting Tuesday, April 16 through August 31st, a nightly closure of the Avenida Internacional will take effect from 11 p.m. to 4 a.m. and starting in June, intermittently during the day.

The closure is needed to speed up the construction of the elevated viaduct that will connect the airport highway or la carretera Aeropuerto with Playas de Tijuana.

Alternate routes during the construction of the Elevated Viaduct

Since work began on the International Avenue, its road capacity has been reduced by 60% and the alternate routes for those who circulated in both directions daily have been overwhelmed with motorists seeking to reach their destination in the shortest possible time.

"If I have to take alternate routes, they're still saturated but you free up a little more time," Rodrigo added.

According to Enrique Bautista, head of the secretariat, urban and environmental territorial development, in Tijuana (SDTUA), alternate routes will be enabled in each direction, in the direction of Playas de Tijuana to Vía Rápida Poniente, it will be possible to use Venustiano Carranza Avenue and the side lane of International Avenue to later join Alberto Aldrete Street,  cross the vehicular bridge to the Colonia Federal to enter the Mexico Bridge and rejoin the Vía Rapida.

In the direction of Vía Rápida to Playas de Tijuana, the detour will consist of joining Alberto Aldrete Street and then taking Francisco I. Madero Street towards 3rd Street and then heading towards this destination.

The work necessary for the placement of columns is projected to be completed on August 31.

"Some adaptations are going to be made towards Playas de Tijuana, an adaptation at the height of the Fire Department where they are going to integrate into the downtown area and they are going to take the street of Fenecido and Madero and especially the third street," he told Telemundo 20.

On June 18, new construction will begin that will involve partial closures during the day, in addition to the total closure at night.