1997 ford ranger long travel i beams

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Maximizing Your Ford Ranger Suspension Travel

If you’re looking for information on wheel travel, suspension travel, ‘flex’, etc., this page is for you.

Front Beams/Brackets Beware Of Drop Brackets Equal Length Beams Camber Coil Springs Shocks/Mounts Coil-Overs Radius Arms 1983-1997 Ford Ranger Bolt On Kits Ranger A-Arm Rear Suspension 64-Inch Chevy Leaf Swap Bed Cages Web Links

Wheel Travel – Is the distance of vertical suspension movement measured at the hub centerline.

Why is it important?

Wheel travel can be an important factor depending on what type of off-roading you are doing;

Desert Racing & Pre-Running  – In high speed offroading such as desert racing, a lot of wheel travel combined with the proper shock valving will allow the suspension to cycle and absorb the bumps creating a more stable ride. If you’ve ever watched a SCORE desert truck racing across the desert, the truck looks like it’s running smooth across the desert and the suspension is doing all the work. The truck isn’t bouncing all over the place.

General Off-Road & Rock Crawling  –  In this situation you’ll hear people talking more in the terms of ‘flex’, but it’s basically the same thing.  As your vehicle is crawling over rocks or other trail obstacles, you want the tires to be able to drop far enough down from the vehicle to allow the tires to make contact with the surface. If the axle can’t droop and the tire is hanging in the air, it’s not going to be able to offer you any traction to help you continue forward. Of course, if you don’t have lockers to send power to all four wheels, then it’s not much good to you.

Above is a photo of my 1996 Ford Ranger 4×4 with a Skyjacker 6-Inch Class II suspension kit with extended radius arms. Notice how even though the truck looks fairly level, the axles at at some extreme angles, and the tires are making contact with the ground.  It’s important for all (4) tires to have contact with the ground for the vehicle to continue forward.  This was actually a steep snow covered climb. If I had not been able to keep all (4) tires on the ground, I might not have made it.

If you look at the photos below, you’ll see that it doesn’t take much to lift a tire off of the ground with a vehicle that has limited wheel travel.

The Ford Twin Traction Beam (TTB) and Twin I-Beam (TIB) Suspensions:

Many people refer to the front suspensions in 1983-1997 Ford Rangers as a TTB suspension. The fact is, that TTB refers to the 4×4 version and TIB refers to the 2WD version.

TTB/TIB suspensions can be built to provide a lot of wheel travel. Soft coil springs and the lever action provided by the beam make for a great off-road design. From the early 1980s to the mid 1990s, I-beam suspensions could be found on just about every successful race truck. Even today, most serious prerunners use some form of I-beam suspension for its durability, simplicity, and long wheel travel potential. I-beams do have their Achilles heel, though. With the long travel comes excessive amounts of camber and caster change throughout the suspension cycle. This can cause erratic handling if the steering linkages are not considered.

From 1966 to 1979 Ford used the longest equal-length I-beams of any year on its 2WD F-series trucks. These arms stretched all the way to the opposite framerails. The longer the beams are, the more travel that can be obtained. From 1980 to 1996 Ford used unequal-length I-beams, the driver side being longer. This allows the driver side to provide more travel than the passenger side with less camber change. Needless to say, this can cause some unique handling situations.

Rangers (and Bronco IIs) from 1983 to 1997 also enjoy the long travel benefits of I-beam suspension. Much like the 1980-1996 fullsizes, the Rangers have a longer beam on the driver side.

Modifying The Ford Ranger TTB/TIB Front Suspension:

When you look at the front suspension of a Ford Ranger, you have:

• Front Axle Beams/Mounting Brackets
• Coil Springs
• Radius Arms

These are the components that are going to influence how much wheel travel you achieve. Lets break it down part by part;

Front Beams/Brackets  – When lifting the suspension and looking for more wheel travel, you have the option of:

• Lowering the beams with suspension drop brackets to allow room for taller springs
• Having the beams bent to allow the mounting end of the beam to bend up towards the frame and bolt in to the factory mounts. This is stronger than using drop brackets, but bending the beam can also shorten it.
• Get specially manufactured beams that are bent and still maintain the correct widths.
• Get specially manufactured equal-length beams.

The method you choose will depend on your budget and intended use of the truck. While drop brackets may work fine on a trail truck, you’ll have a stronger setup using bent beams and the factory mounts blasting across the terrain at high speeds.

Bending the beams should be done by someone who has experience. An incorrect procedure can cause the beams to fail or make the vehicle impossible to align. One drawback of bending the beams is that the track width of the front end becomes narrower than stock. The radius arms need to be modified for proper caster or, better yet, replaced with longer pieces. This method of lifting affords more wheel travel and strength than the bracket kits.

The next option is production-built beams. The beams are usually made from chromemoly tubing or plate. Their design allows them to accommodate up to an 8-inch lift coil. Longer radius arms are required for these beams but all the components are bolt-on. Huge amounts of travel up to and beyond 15-inches is possible depending on the shock towers. The static track width that these beams provide is usually a few inches more than stock. When the suspension compresses, the track width will be several inches wider than stock. Fiberglass or trimmed fenders may be necessary to provide full use of the travel.

These Camburg 1983-1988 2WD Ford Ranger beams are 4-inches wider per side and are a coil-over application only.

These Camburg 1989-1997 2WD beams are 4.5-inches wider per side, have Heim Joint pivots, Billet CNC end pieces, and also come with billet steering extenders.

Bent beams aren’t just limited to 2WD’s.

These Camburg 4×4 beams are modified for off-road use. They are cut and turned for proper camber alignment. They will require porting for the axles to clear in use with long travel trucks. Designed to work with stock axles. Shown with optional uni-ball pivot.

These Solo Motorsports Dana 35 beam are 4-inches wider, trussed, cut and turned, and have uniball cups. 4×4 beams are also offered by Autofab.

If you establish long wheel travel with your TTB, the pass-through window for the axleshaft may need enlarged so it will clear the shaft in all positions of bump and droop travel.

Beware Of Drop Brackets:

This is one of those topics that I think is overlooked and needs mentioning. People will buy a cheap lift kit to save money, or piece together their own lift with used parts. I strongly suggest you stay away from lift kits or suspension brackets that use a drop plate for the passenger beam pivot bracket.

Here’s why:

Looking at the back side of this lift, you can see where the pivot bracket for the passenger side beam has been lowered by using a drop plate. If you look to the left, you can see where there is only 2-inches of space between the bracket and the front differential. There is a risk that upward suspension travel could cause the differential to strike the plate and bracket and break the differential housing.

The photo above shows lift kit brackets that use the drop plate method. The photo below shows heavy duty brackets that includes a complete replacement passenger beam pivot bracket.

Equal Length Beams  – We need to talk about equal length beams. What are equal length beams? If you remembered when we mentioned the 1966-1979 2WD Ford F-150 beams, we said that the longer the beams are, the more travel that can be obtained. With equal length beams, you don’t have to deal with one side (the driver side) being longer and providing more travel than the passenger side, causing the driver and passenger side beams to have different camber changes and causing unique handling situations.

Camber  – is the inward or outward tilt of the front tires as viewed from the front. Inward tilt is negative, outward tilt is positive. Camber is used to distribute load across the entire tread. Improper camber makes the tire wear on one edge, and causes the vehicle to pull to the side.

Above is a picture of what a lot of positive camber can look like with a lot of wheel travel. This photo is for example only before any adjustments were made.

It’s important to remember that your Ranger has unequal length drivers and passenger beams. That means that if you’re switching to equal length beams, you’re going to need new mounts (pivots) to mount the beams to the frame. You’ll also need a good crossover steering kit. It is highly recommended that you buy a complete system (beams, pivots, cross-over steering and radius arms) from a company such as Camburg or Giant Motorsports to ensure that it all works together.

These equal beams (above) are from Solo Motorsports.

Above are Camburg’s equal Length beams. Their kit comes with equal length beams, radius arms, beam pivot brackets, radius arm brackets with tranny X-Member, full steering kit with swings, all heims and hardware, billet aluminum hubs with hub centric dust cap, custom hollow snout spindles, Wilwood brake rotors, calipers, and pads, 9 degrees of camber adjustment, Pro-Am pinch bolt bungs, low un-sprung weight compared to other setups. No need for an outdated king pin setup with old junkyard parts and no ability to change you camber.

Coil Springs  – The coil springs will determine the ride height and it’s spring ratio will effect how it rides and handles. To much wheel travel can cause the spring to pop out of the upper spring mount (bucket). This is generally controlled by the use of a retainer, limiting strap and we’ve even seen the use of a tube in the middle of the upper mount to allow the spring to slide down so it can’t pop out.

Shocks/Mounts  – Shocks can be one of the biggest restrictors when it comes to wheel travel. Often a suspension can’t achieve its full droop because the shock has reached the end of its travel. Ranger owners have found ways to change the mounting locations of the shocks.

The shock mount above was available for a while from Skyjacker and allowed dual front shocks. If you look to the left of the coil you’ll see a pocket where the shock would have normally been mounted. This new mount bolted on and added a couple more inches of shock length.

From there, enthusiasts found that they could use an F-250 shock mount (above) buy cutting the original upper shock mount off of the coil bucket and mounting the F-250 shock mount next to it.

This has (2) advantages;

1) it allows room for a longer shock,

2) it allows for the use of a traditional upper EB1 bushing style shock instead of the Rangers stud type shock mount.

The Ford part number is E5TZ18183A.

Here is another custom configuration. The owner cut off the factory shock mount part of the coil bucket and reinforced it with a piece of metal plate. Then they created a new mount and welded it to the top of the coil bucket. The shock should mount to the rear of the spring, not the front. The farther along the radius arm the shock is mounted, the farther the shock will have to travel up and down.

This shock mount is an old Fabtech unit. Unfortunately, Fabtech stopped making products for the 1983-1997 Rangers. Again, this raised the shock mount to allow for a longer shock and did away with the stud style upper shock mount.

Above is a Autofab wheel travel kit. The custom made coil buckets are much stronger than stock. It has a tall hoop structure so the front shock can be a 14-inch travel shock. Here is the secret of the wheel travel. Get a long enough of a shock in there to stroke for all that travel. The rear shock mount is different because that shock is further back on the radius arm and does not stroke the same amount. Remember, the farther out from the radius arm mount (at the frame) you mount the shock, the farther it is going to have to travel (shock stroke).

If you have followed along in the progression of these photos, you’ll see that as the desire for wheel travel increases, the upper shock mount heights increase as well.

Coil-Overs  – Yes, we didn’t have coil-overs in the list above, but if you’re pretty off-road savvy, by now your thinking to yourself, “what about coil-overs?”

This setup is made by Camburg and replaces your coil spring with a coil-over. Coil-overs have always been considered pricey, but are becoming more and more popular in serious off-road vehicles.

Longer Radius Arms  – Almost any serious off-road Ranger you see now a days has a set of extended (longer) radius arms. The longer radius arms increase wheel travel (up to 30%)  and help keep caster change to a minimum during suspension cycling. They also help triangulate and strengthen the suspension assembly.

Above is a Skyjacker extended radius arm compared to a stock radius arm. Both arms use a bushing mount at the rear of the arm to mount it to a bracket on the frame rail.

These Radius arms are from Camburg (above) and Autofab (below) and use Heim Joints instead of a bushing mount at the frame rail.

The advantages to Heims over bushings is that the bushings can bind and wear out and the Heims offer freer movement.

1983-1997 Ford Ranger 4×4 Bolt On Kits:

If you’re looking for a bolt on suspension kit to provide you with more lift and suspension travel, you’ll want one with longer radius arms.

I would recommend:

James Duff 5-6 Inch Stage 3 Suspension Kit

This kit includes:

• 5-6” Progressive Rate Coil Springs*
• New Coil Tower Dual Shock mounts
• Rod Ended Extended Radius Arms
• HD Tranny Crossmember
• Extended Stainless Brake lines
• Drop pitman arm (fits PS only)
• Axle pivot drop brackets
• 4 front shocks, 2 rear shocks, 6 shock boots
• Urethane coil pads, leveling spacer
• Complete Replacement Leaf Spring Packs
• Spring Eye Bushings

Skyjacker Class II 6-Inch Suspension Kit

• Heavy duty suspension brackets
• Transmission mount crossmember
• Replacement rear leaf springs & u-bolts
• 6-inch lift front coil springs
• Extended radius arms and brackets
• Dropped pitman arm
• Longer sway bar links

Autofab Model 35 Wheel Travel Kit

This kit provides 16-inches of wheel travel. Features custom coil spring buckets and shock hoop structures. Specialty Pivot brackets duplicating Ford Factory 2-inch lift on Ranger STX Hirider trucks. This allows the middle U-joint to operate to achieve 16″ wheel travel. A drop pitman arm is required. Beams are cut and turned for alignment correction of 4-inch lift. Special Autofab radius arms correct the castor alignment and allow for more droop and wheel travel.

For more information about ‘ cut and turn ‘, click HERE

Giant Motorsports Dana 44 TTB Conversion Kit

Want to go all out and upgrade to a Dana 44? Get the Giant Motorsports Dana 44 TTB conversion kit. This easy to bolt on kit allows for added strength, a 5-inch lift, up to 18-inches of controlled wheel travel, and widens the track width to 80 inches (depending on wheel off set). The passenger side beam pivot is designed stronger then most, that spans across to grab both frame rails so you will need the trim the lip on back parts of the cross member to bolt up the new mount.

1998-2009 Ford Ranger Short Arm / Long Arm (SLA) Suspensions:

The 1998 and newer Ford Rangers have two different types of SLA front suspension;

• The 1998-2009 Ford Ranger 2WD uses a coil spring SLA front suspension.
• The 1998-2009 Ford Ranger 4×4 has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.
•  The 2001-2005 Ford Ranger 2WD Edge has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.
• The 2006-2009 Ford Ranger 2WD Sport has a torsion bar SLA front suspension.

Note  – The Edge appeared in 2001 and offered a 2WD Ranger that had the ride height of a 4×4 Ranger. In 2006, Ford switched from using the Edge name to using ‘Sport’. In 2007, ‘Edge’ became a vehicle all in itself as a Ford midsize crossover SUV.

What are Torsion bars ? Torsion bars use the twisting properties of a steel bar to provide coil-spring-like performance.

This is how they work: One end of a bar is anchored to the vehicle frame. The other end is attached to a wishbone, which acts like a lever that moves perpendicular to the torsion bar. When the wheel hits a bump, vertical motion is transferred to the wishbone and then, through the levering action, to the torsion bar. The torsion bar then twists along its axis to provide the spring force.

The coil spring SLA suspension right height is effected by:

• Upper Control Arm / Lower control Arm
• Coil Spring

Company’s making long travel kits for SLA Rangers do so by replacing the upper and lower arms, coil spring or torsion bar, spindle, upper shock mount and adding steering tie-rod extensions.

This Camburg 2WD kit uses tubular Heim pivot upper arms, lower boxed arms, CNC and boxed spindle, all heims and uni-balls with spacers and steering extensions.

Most long-travel A-arm kits widen the front suspension 4-5 inches at each side and replace the 2WD coil springs or 4×4 torsion bars with a coilover shock. There are some middle of the road kits that use a new coil spring for the 2WD trucks.

It is possible to get a long wheel travel kit for a 1998 and newer 4×4 Ranger. Dixon Bros. offers a kit for the A-arm suspension that also includes complete front axles with custom length heat treated shafts and high angle 930 CVs.

Increasing Wheel Travel In The Rear Suspension – 1983-2009:

There are (2) ways that enthusiast use to create a lot of wheel travel in the rear end.

1) 64-Inch Chevy Leaf Swap  – The first is the Chevy 64-inch leaf spring and flipped shackle conversion. Flipping the shackles is when you remove the rivets on the stock shackle hanger of the rear leaf springs and re-installing it upside-down. This allows a better spring progression, and lowers the center of gravity. Replacement springs such as Deaver, are designed to work with a flipped shackle.

Here’s a general idea of how you add the longer 64-inch spring:

The front mount is move forward so the bottom left hole of the bracket is relocated into the bottom right hole in the frame.

The rear hanger was flipped over and in this case a 7-inch shackle was used. Flipping the rear shackles lets the rear suspension dive deeper into bump travel without going into a negative arc. In addition to using 64-inch leaf springs from a Chevy, Deaver Spring offers several different leaf-spring options for the Ranger.

Above is a photo of a Camburg shackle with a Deaver spring.

Note – Whenever you do a conversion like this, you’re going to run in to clearance issues with the bed. Desert trucks and most prerunners remove the bed and use fiberglass bedsides. If you’re using your bed, you’ll likely need to cut a section of the bed out for clearance.

2) The second option for a long travel rear suspension is a 3-link or 4-link rear.

This Camburg 3-link system is a must if you want to really haul through the desert! This system is bolt on and comes complete with all Heims, stainless spacers, and hardware. This system utilizes full boxed lower links where the shocks mount as low as possible to gain around 4-inches of ground clearance over other boxed links on the market today.

Good long travel rear suspensions use a bed cage that mounts to the frame rails and offers a mounting point for shocks. This allows you to mount shocks that are long enough to let you get all the wheel travel available.

The cage above is from Camburg. The one below is from Dixon Bros.

Rear Link Kits:

For maximum rear wheeltravel, Camburg also offers a rear 3-link kit.

• 48-inch Lower Trailing Arms
• Upper 3-link Wishbone
• Upper & Lower Link Mounts
• Carrier Bearing X-member
• FK 1.00 inch Uniballs
• Stainless Steel Mis-alignment Spacers
• Grade 9 Hardware

Giant Motorsports offers a rear link kit as well.

This new link design dramatically cuts the cost of linking your truck by eliminating the upper link arm – allowing you to keep the stock frame, axle, bed, and gas tank. This kit allows up to 26-inches of travel.

Miscellaneous:

Sway Bars – Sway bars when disconnected will add another inch of travel on basic suspensions and need to be removed for long wheel travel suspensions.

Brake Lines – You will need to lengthen brake lines when increasing suspension travel.  Some people have ran hard lines down the radius arms to a rubber line connecting it to a hard line on the frame.  This places the brake lines in a position with the least amount of travel.

Limiting Straps & Bump Stops – Consider using limiting straps to prevent your suspension from pulling your shocks apart and bump stops to keep your tires from coming through your fenders.  Finally, check your axles and drive-shafts to ensure they aren’t going to pull apart.

Blitzkrieg Motorsports

Dixon Bros.

Fabtech Motorsports

Giant Motorsports

Solo Motorsports

More Articles:

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• Bronco Parts
• Bronco Under the bed "link Killer"
• Radius Arms
• 4 Links Kits
• 4-Link Pivots
• Toyota I-Beam

4 Wheel Drive Beam Kit

Equal length beam pivots.

• F-150 I-Beam Kit

C10 I-Beam Conversion Kit

Ranger i-beam kits.

• Super Duty EQ Beam Kit
• 91-01 Explore Rear Kits
• 62″ Long Travel Leaf Spring Kit
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Category: I-Beam Kits

Giant Motorsports I Beam kits. If you are looking to construct your own beam kits, you will want to check out the equal length beam pivots. These pivots are the hardest part to get the right position and to construct when doing this style of kit. Save yourself a lot of time and headache and just bolt this part and get straight to making your beams. The Giant Motorsports Prismatic I Beam has been changed with the construction design to eliminate the tubing and are are all now plate work.

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The Giant Motorsports 4 Wheel Drive Beam Kits are constructed with 1″ uniballs and gusseted and plated and are extended in 3″ to 7″ wider per side, with a 4″ lift with around 17″-19″of wheel travel.  Includes new plated style hiemed radius arms. We offer the 4WD kits for Rangers, F150s, Broncos, and Explorers. These …

4 Wheel Drive Beam Kit Read More

86-97 Ranger | Explorer 4WD | Dana 44 TTB conversion kit

Giant Motorsports has specialized in I beam suspension kits for years, and is now proud to offer the newest kit, “The Ranger/Explorer 4WD Dana 44 TTB conversion kit”. This kit is designed to convert your 86-97 4WD Ranger/Explorer (with stock Dana 28/35 beams and spindles) to the bigger Dana 44 TTB setup, utilizing the stock …

86-97 Ranger | Explorer 4WD | Dana 44 TTB conversion kit Read More

Bronco | F-150 I-Beam Kit

The equal length F-150 kit comes with: Beams 84”-92” to the outside of the tires that hold a Dana 44 spindle, Radius Arms, bolt on frame mounts. [embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9GZB_AoyPA[/embedyt]

This conversion kit fits the early models Chevy’s 70-86. You have the option of a 5on5.5 or 6on5.5 lug pattern and 80”-90” to the out side of the tire track width. The kit comes with a bolt on cross member that has equal length beams mounts incorporated into it that replaces the stock cross member …

C10 I-Beam Conversion Kit Read More

Equal length beam pivots are great to construct your own beams out of. These pivots are a lot stronger them others. We have a larger footprint covering more surface area to hold up over time and racing. Save yourself a lot of time and headache and just bolt these parts and get straight to making …

Equal Length Beam Pivots Read More

Expedition 2WD Equal Length I-Beam Long Travel Kit

Expedition 2WD equal length I-beam long travel kit. There aren’t many 2wd kits on the market for a Expedition 2WD . With our desert racing back ground we can only do it one way, and that is with the highest performance level possible. The Giant 2wd I-beam kit can get 19-21 inches of wheel travel if …

Expedition 2WD Equal Length I-Beam Long Travel Kit Read More

We have changed the construction design of the beam to eliminate the tubing and are now all plate work. Here is the construction of the beam, there is an inner 3/16 plate the runs the length and 2 outer 3/16 plate that have 2 70* brakes in both of them that forms a prismatic shape …

Ranger I-Beam Kits Read More

Super Duty 2WD I-Beam Kit

F-250/F350 2WD equal length I-beam long travel kit. There aren’t many 2wd kits on the market for a Ford Super Duty F250, F350 trucks. With our desert racing back ground we can only do it one way, and that is with the highest performance level possible. The Giant 2wd I-beam kit can get 19-21 inches of …

Super Duty 2WD I-Beam Kit Read More

Toyota 05-UP

05-UP  I-beam conversion kit This Conversion kit allows gaining the Strength, Travel, Performance and Reliability you need out of a front suspension system. This kit allows you to move the wheels forward 3.0″ and Cross Over Steering for greater tire clearance and correct geometry. This welded on to the stock frame and includes I-beams the …

Toyota 05-UP Read More

Toyota 89-95

89-95 $3250.00 I-beam conversion kit This Conversion kit allows to gain the Strength, Travel, Performance and Reliability you need out of a front suspension system. This kit allows you to move the wheels forward 3.0″ and Cross Over Steering for greater tire clearance and correct geometry. This welded on to the stock frame and includes: …

Toyota 89-95 Read More

Toyota 96-04

96-04 I-beam conversion kit This Conversion kit allows gaining the Strength, Travel, Performance and Reliability you need out of a front suspension system. This kit allows you to move the wheels forward 3.0″ and Cross Over Steering for greater tire clearance and correct geometry. This welded on to the stock frame and includes I-beams the …

Toyota 96-04 Read More

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Desolate Motorsports 2WD Beams

$ 2,299.99 – $ 4,899.99

Note: These beams are a built to order custom item. Please allow approx. 4 week lead time.

Description

Additional information.

We have been hard at work on our new fully fabricated 2WD I beams for Broncos and F150’s. These beams will fill a void in the industry for those wanting custom 2WD beams with some great design features. We are offering these beams both in stock width and 4.5″ over per side. They are designed to be used with a coil over shock and in conjuncture with our heimed radius arms that we already produce. Camber will be proper with a zero cam at approx. 4-5″ of lift keeping the ball joint very linear. When there is no misalignment of the upper and lower ball joints the strength and longevity of the ball joints is greatly increased. These beams are designed to use Dana 44 knuckles. What does this mean? Dana 44 knuckles, hubs, and brakes are found on the Broncos and 4×4 F150s in the 80’s and 90s and feature a much stronger design than 2WD F150 components. So, if you’re converting a Bronco or 4×4 F150 to these beams, you already have all the right parts. If you’re installing these beams on a 2WD F150 then you will need to source used knuckles, hubs, brakes, and spindles from a 4×4 or Bronco. These parts are readily available in junk yards or we can also help you source them if needed. Please contact us with any questions via phone or email.

• Super beefy billet steel beam end
• 3/16 steel construction with internal ribbing
• 1″ FK uniball pivots w/ misalignment spacers
• More proper geometry than traditionally modified 4×4 housings
• Unequal length designs uses stock pivot points
• Travel 16 to 20 inches depending on shock configuration and width

What’s Included:

• Driver Beam
• Passenger Beam
• Uniballs w/ Misalignments

Options Include:

• Radius Arm Kit
• Desolate Motorsports Shock Hoops

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86-97 Ranger & 91-94 Explorer / Long Travel Suspension Kit Stage 4

$ 6,354.00 – $ 8,150.00

86-97 Ranger & 91-94 Explorer Long-Travel Suspension Kit Stage 4 is a performance front and rear suspension kit for the Ford Ranger Explorer and Bronco II.

(Front and Rear Suspension)

Description

Additional information.

• Applications

The 86-97 Ranger & 91-94 Explorer Long-Travel Suspension Kit Stage 4 is a high performance long-travel Front and Rear Suspension Kit for Rangers, Explorers, and Bronco IIs. This kit converts the TTB suspension to use a 12″ Coil-over performance shock. The Rear uses Deaver leaf springs paired with a King Shock 2.5 x 12″ smooth body or 3-tube bypass. This Kit is built for chase and prerunning down in Baja!

The 15 inches of front suspension travel soaks up the whoops, and delivers an amazing ride even through the roughest terrain. This Suspension kit is built for heavy off-road use, no matter if it’s on hard or soft packed dirt.

The Cut N’ Turned Dana 44 TTBs with uniball pivots, uniballs, stainless steel misalignment spacers and a welded differential skid plate for superior durability are paired with 12″ 2.5 King Remote Reservoir Coil-over shocks. The  W-I-Y shock hoops comes with pre-drilled alignment holes, allowing for easy and precise positioning before welding. This suspension system uses a 12″ coil over shock to keep your factory brake booster.

The Cut N’ Turned beams allow for proper camber. We weld the remaining TTB welds that the factory does not complete. Our 1 1/4″ Extended Radius Arms will bring back the correct caster and allows the wheel to travel on a greater arc.

We also offer additional beam plating. Which includes plating the front, back, top, and bottom of both beams. We weld a truss and skid plate to the driver’s beam for additional strength. We replace the stock bushings with 4130 chromoly uniball cups, FK uniballs, and stainless steel misalignment spacers for superior durability. Also a we can modify the Dana 35 TTB to run a Dana 44 spindle, snouts, and hub conversion.

Some Explorers require radius arm pivot boxes to be welded to frame due to boxed frame design.

The Deaver G50 or (G50E, F31) progressive leaf springs are paired with our Explorer extended Shackles, allowing 16 inches of wheel travel. Controlling all of that travel is from two 12″ 2.5 King Remote Reservoir shocks (Explorer Only) . This kit comes with two different shock configurations. Either a smooth body or 3-tube bypass shock. The bypass shock allows for a better suspension tuning. The rear shocks are mounted to a W-I-Y Under-the-Bed shock mount.

The Rangers and Bronco IIs will require a custom bed cage. We recommend using a 2.5 x 16″ King shock to use with our leaf springs. If you would like to purchase shocks please give us a call.

–The Ranger and Bronco IIs do not come with rear  Shocks – 

-The Rangers will require a “Shackle Hanger Flip”-

Deaver Spring Spec List:

• G50E : Explorers
• G50 : Heavy Leaf pack for Ranger or Bronco ii. Use if vehicle has big spare tire(s), tools, gear, fuel cell.
• F31 : Daily Driver Leaf pack for Ranger or Bronco ii. Use for light weight in the rear of the vehicle.

We strongly recommend professional installation for optimal performance and safety.

• Front suspension travel approx.: 15″
• Front suspension lift approx.: 4 in
• Recommended tire size: 33″ (35″ tire will require fiberglass)
• Fiberglass required: Yes
• 4130 Chromoly 1″ Uniball Cups welded on beam pivots

Ranger & Explorer Long-Travel Kit Includes

• Cut N’ Turned Dana 35 TTB
• 12″ stroke 2.5 King coil over shocks with remote reservoirs
• Coil-over Shock hoop
• 1 1/4″ Heimed Extended Radius Arms
• Radius Arm Pivot Boxes
• 17-4 Stainless Steel Misalignments
• Grade 8 Hardware
• Limit straps
• FK 1″ uniballs
• FK 1 1/4″ Heim Joints
• Front Extended Brake Lines
• Alignment Cams
• Deaver Leaf Springs (G50, G50E, F31)
• Extended Shackles
• Rear axel shock tabs
• extended stainless brake lines
• King Shocks 2.5 x 12″ (Smooth Body or 3-Tube Bypass for Explorer only )

Upgrade Options

• Modify Dana 35 TTBs to run a Dana 44 spindle, snouts and hubs.
• Full beam plating to the driver and passenger Dana 35 Twin Traction Beams
• Explorer Rear Shock Hoop $500, call to order.

This product fits the following vehicles:

Camburg Ford Ranger Long Travel Suspension - Gold-Standard Options For The Standard-Issue Ranger

Camburg's Solution For Long-Travel Needs

Offset Photography Photographer Kevin Blumer Writer Camburg Photographer Apr 01, 2009

See All 12 Photos

Even those remotely familiar with Ford's ever-popular Ranger know that the truck underwent a radical chassis change in '98. The switch from I-beams to A-arms netted better handling and longer tire life, and that '98 chassis continues on through '08 and beyond. There are two basic A-arm chassis styles: torsion bar and coil spring. The torsion bar chassis is used for the 4x4, 2WD Edge, and 2WD Sport SuperCab models. The coil spring chassis is used for the 2WD XL, 2WD XLT, and 2WD Sport regular cab models.

Since the 2WD XL and XLT models are produced in greater numbers and are available at lower price points, there are quite a few coil-spring Rangers out there, waiting for the chance to become desert weapons.

Camburg Engineering offers a long-travel kit to owners of coil-spring Rangers with a need for real desert speed. This is the same kit campaigned in multiple MDR racing seasons by Camburg's Jeremy Zindroski, who also happens to own Dezertrangers.com. Due to the frame modifications and shock hoop fabrication required for a clean, strong installation, this kit should only be installed by an experienced fabricator or a high-end off-road shop.

Quick Specs

1. Four inches wider per side

2. Boxed-plate lower control arms

3. Tubular chromoly upper control arms

4. Factory-style bushings are replaced throughout with high-misalignment rod ends and spherical bearings.

5. Factory steering knuckles are replaced with a custom-fabricated knuckle that is much stronger.

6. Stainless steel tie rods replace the OEM wet-noodle tie rods.

7. Uses either 8- or 10-inch stroke coilover shocks.

8. Can also be used with bypass shocks.

9. The kit yields up to 18 inches of wheel travel depending on the shocks and the shock mounts' configuration.

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1989-1997 Ford Ranger 3" Drop I-beams

DJM 1989-1997 Ford Ranger 3 inch drop I-beams

A set of DJM’s Beams for your Ranger which will lower 3″ by simply replacing the original equipment beams! You are ready to get the alignment checked and cruise on down the road. It’s that simple, give it a try!

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• Toll Free 1-866-636-9085 Call Today! 1-866-636-9085 [email protected]
• 0 0 items $ 0.00

1989-1997 FORD Ranger 5″ Lifted I-Beams & Radius Arms (Up to 5 Inches of Lift)

$ 1,762.12

Description

Additional information.

• Reviews (0)

Upgrade your I-Beams to powder coating for that true custom color and look to match your ride.

Are you looking for extreme? These lifted Beams will give you that tough in the air look that you have been wanting. Whether your trying to clear some huge wheels and tires, or simply need some additional clearance this setup will get you there.

Use this lifted hardware with an air ride system for the ultimate adjustable ride height lift!

NOTE: LIFT COILS ARE EXTRA. (NOT INCLUDED) LIFT COILS ARE NEEDED FOR 5 INCHES OF LIFT.

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Privacy overview.

1983 - 1997 Ford Ranger 2 Wheel Drive Truck Suspension

Drop Pitman Arm 2 inch

2 1/2″ Leaf Spring Shackel 1″ Longer

2 1/2″ Leaf Spring Shackel

83-97 Ranger 2wd Wheel Travel Kit

83-97 ranger 2wd middle of the road kit.

2wd Ranger Right Side Beam Pivot Bracket

Ranger 4″ Wider 6 inch Lift Brackets

2wd Ranger Left Side Beam Pivot Bracket

1995-97 Ranger 2wd Truck Econo Lift

1989-94 ranger 2wd truck econo lift.

1983-88 Ranger 2WD Truck Econo Lift

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Ranger Beam Kit

Ranger Beam Kit - Add Dual Uniball Spindle is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.

Ranger Equal Length Beam Kit

• All TIG welded 4130 Construction
• All plate beam and radius arm construction
• Dual Uniball Ends
• Includes Beam, Radius Arm, and swinger mounts
• Steering Swingers included w/heims
• Tie Rods and steering linkage not included
• Heims, spacers, bushings, and Grade 8 Hardware included
• 85" Width depending on hub/wheel/tire combination
• Shipping of large items/suspension kits is highly volatile. Shipping calculation at checkout is a base charge to complete order. Actual shipping will be calculated at the time of shipment. Additional charges are likely to be incurred
• ***Lead time may very depending on current production***

Blitzkrieg Offroad is your go-to source for high-quality off-road parts and accessories. We offer a wide selection of products from top manufacturers, competitive pricing, and exceptional customer service. Shop with us for all of your off-road needs and experience the Blitzkrieg difference.

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Camburg Engineering

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Phone: 714-848-8880 | Email: [email protected]

Shop By Vehicle

Camburg Ford Ranger 2wd 89-97 I-beam Race Spindle & 2.0 Front Hub Upgrade Kit

• Fully fabricated spindle/knuckle
• 1.5″ lift
• Camburg 2.0 race hubs
• Wilwood brake kit

$ 3,765.00

Description

• What’s Included
• Vehicle Applications

These fabricated race spindles replace the weak link in the front i-beam suspension, no more weak ball-joints and cast parts to fail. Over the last 15+ years we’ve tested various designs and this by far is the best and has won multiple races and championships on various race trucks.

We fabricate these from 4130 chromoly and replace the weak upper & lower ball-joints with FK 1″ uniballs.  We also build 1.5″ of lift into these for added ground clearance at the wheel/hub area and below the i-beams. We CNC machine heat-treated stainless uniball spacers that fit into the lower taper and upper alignment cams to make installation easier. For serious racers we recommend double shearing the mounts which requires fabrication and machining. We also convert the outer tie rod to use a FK 7/8 x 7/8″ heim joint (JMX-14T-770) so you will need to modify your existing steering.

We build these around our Camburg 2.0 race hubs which use a larger 5 on 5.5″ bolt pattern not native to the Ranger with Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 12″ rotors. You will need a wheel machined with a 4.25″ center-bore setup for 5/8″ wheel studs. When running smaller 15″ wheels we recommend wheels with 3.5″ backspacing for brake caliper clearance.

We highly recommend a qualified off-road shop installing these race parts. While these are bolt-on parts, there is some custom fitment that needs to happen along with custom brake lines that need to be made. The steering will also need to be adapted to work with a heim joint. The upper uniball spacer that goes into the alignment cam will need to be trimmed/machined flush with the top of the cam. This also acts as a secondary measure to hold the cam into the beam end so you’re not solely relying on the pinch bolt.

We can also custom build these for different brake and hub combinations. Call for more info.

• Fabricated uniball spindles
• 2.0 race hubs (5 on 5.5 bolt pattern) (centered version)
• Rotor hats (extended version)
• Wilwood 12″x0.81 rotors
• Superlite 4 piston calipers
• Brake pads and hardware

310-538-1583

1989-1997 Ford Ranger Complete 3 inch Front / 4 inch Rear Lowering Kit

From: $ 565.92

1989 – 1997 Ford Ranger 3 Inch drop beams

It's bolt on simplicity for you! Remove and replace your beams, your done

1983 – 1997 Ford Ranger 4 Inch Rear Axle Flip Kit

Simple, using parts you’ve already paid for! A 4″ flip kit in it’s most economical form.

14.5″ Stem / Loop SuperShock (1415) × 2

14.5″ Stem / Loop Calmax SuperShock Twin tube nitrogen charged shock for lowered and performance trucks Sold each!

Extended - 14.5"  Collapsed - 9.0"

19.5″ Loop / Loop SuperShock (1900) × 2

19.5″ Loop / Loop Calmax SuperShock Twin tube nitrogen charged shock for lowered and performance trucks Sold each!

Extended - 19.5" Collapsed - 12.25"

Description

Additional information, 1989 – 1997 ford ranger complete 3 inch front / 4 inch rear lowering kit.

Lowered 3 inch I-Beams in the front and a simple rear axle leaf spring flip kit for a 4 inch drop in the rear.

Shocks are NOT included. DJM Recommends:

• Front Shock 1415 (sold each)
• Rear Shock 1900 (sold each)

14.5″ Stem / Loop SuperShock (1415)

19.5″ loop / loop supershock (1900), related products.

Vlasov torsion theory

Assumptions.

• Warping can be constrained
• Derivative of section rotation about the axis of the twist is not constant

Differential Equation

The rotation of the beam cross-section follows the following differential equation (Hoogenboom 2006):

Refer to torsion page for the notation used in the above equation.

According to Vlasov to the theory, the applied torque causes the following three types of stresses:

• shear stresses due to unrestrained torsion
• shear stresses due to restrained warping
• normal stresses due to restrained warping

These stresses are combined with stresses due to axial, bending and shear loading. For example the total axial stress can be obtained as follows (Hoogenboom 2006):

• V.Z. Vlasov: "Thin-Walled Elastic Bars" (in Russian), 2nd ed., Fizmatgiz, Moscow, 1959.
• Zdenek P. Bazant: Nonuniform torsion of thin-walled bars of variable cross section, Publications, IABSE, 25, p. 245-167, 1965.

External Links

• P.C.J. Hoogenboom: Vlasov Torsion Theory , October 2006

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Moscow Muled

Why do moscow mules come in copper mugs.

Oct 18, 2019

Have you ever wondered why the Moscow Mule cocktail is served in a copper mug? In this post, we answer that question in detail. As it turns out, the answer is partly based on historical events and partly based on the extra "kick" that copper brings to this classic cocktail. Let's dive in!

Introduction

A remarkable cocktail is something you notice from across the room, easily identified by the signature drinking vessel it's served in. Few are more distinct than the burnished copper mug of a Moscow Mule. 

Great cocktails aren't just alcohol and mixers––they should be something more, a full sensory experience from beginning to end. It starts as you observe the precise convergence of ingredients in a golden ratio that blossoms into flavors and aromas of citrus and spicy ginger. It is then delivered into an ice-filled copper mug and garnished with fresh mint and a slice of lime.  Finally, it is presented before you, shiny and cold, compelling you to taste.

The copper mule mug not only tells the story of the drink it contains, but also is essentially functional to the full experience. You might already know that the cone-shaped bowl of a long-stemmed Martini glass was designed so that olives would stand perfectly upright, and the elegantly curvaceous welled Margarita glass was designed to add ample salt, sugar and garnishes.

But why are Moscow Mules served in copper mugs?

Inquiring minds want to know, so this article will sum up the science and history of why traditional Moscow Mules come in copper mugs, and other legit benefits of serving cocktails in pure copper mugs. This includes:

A Brief History of the Moscow Mule

The science of using copper mugs.

• How Copper Mugs Amplify the Taste & Aroma of your Moscow Mule
• The Enhanced Experience of Drinking from a Pure Copper Mug

The origin of this timeless cocktail is the tale of the American Dream. One fateful day in 1941 , three struggling entrepreneurs had a serendipitous meeting at the Cock 'N Bull bar on the Sunset Strip in Hollywood: A bar owner passionate about his unpopular home-brewed ginger beer, a businessman who took a big chance and purchased Smirnoff vodka, and a Russian immigrant with a cache of copper mugs she couldn't seem to sell. That day, the unlikely trio wisely decided to join forces in a bold venture that would not only save their individual businesses, but also create an iconic American cocktail.

Essentially, the Moscow Mule is the most successful marketing campaign in cocktail history. At a time when most Americans had never even heard of vodka, this cocktail introduced them to the traditional Russian alcohol, and established Smirnoff as a necessity in both bars and homes alike.

Thanks to celebrity endorsement, the Moscow Mule soon took the Hollywood cocktail scene by storm, and quickly became the most beloved mixed drink of the 1950's.

It's popularity understandably waned during the Cold War, and it was briefly re-branded as the Smirnoff Mule to distance itself from communism. However, the recent cocktail renaissance of the 21st century has seen the Moscow Mule come kicking back, as evidenced by lists like Esquire's Top 10 Cocktails of 2019 , and Business Insider's 8th Best-selling Cocktail in the World, 2018 .

But the answer to why Moscow Mules are served in copper mugs goes much further than a conveniently clever alliance between co-founders desperate for a big break. The story of the Moscow Mule is both the struggle of the immigrant searching for success, and the flashy lifestyle of the rich and famous.

It boasts a simple recipe , yet a complex flavor profile, encapsulated in a shiny copper mug. And as delicious and refreshing as the Moscow Mule may be, it's the copper mug that makes the cocktail so extraordinary.  Like the drink itself, the pure copper mule mug is a balance of form and functionality.

The most scientific benefit of the copper mug is its ability to regulate temperature. When a drink is served in a copper mug, it gets cold fast––and stays that way.

Copper is a renowned thermal conductor that will keep your beverage frosty in any weather, and is one of the reasons the traditional Moscow Mule has become synonymous with summer. Add a little ice, and the copper chills drinks instantly, and sustains a refreshingly icy rim with every sip.

Because copper is such an excellent conductor, it can keep your cold beverages colder for longer. The downfall of many ill-fated cocktails on a hot summer day is melting ice. Copper mugs stay brisk, and don't disrupt the recipe's ratio, so the simple yet distinct flavors of the Moscow Mule remain strong till the last drop.

Another important feature of the solid copper Moscow Mule mug is the handle. Much like the stem of a wine glass, the copper mug handle keeps the nearly 100 degree body temperature of your hand from impacting the status of your deliciously frosty cocktail.

How Copper Mugs Amplify the Taste and Aroma of Your Moscow Mule

If you want to know what a Moscow Mule tastes like, purists would insist the only way to experience it is in a 100% copper mug. Aside from being a great American tradition, copper mugs offer some unique enhancements to both the flavor and aroma of the Moscow Mule (or almost any finely-crafted cocktail).

Although subjective, most discerning drinkers would agree that copper mugs imbue cocktails with a superior taste. Experts explain that the copper oxidizes the vodka upon contact, thus enhancing the flavor profile and potency of the aromatics.

The intense cold of the copper also creates more stability in the bubbles of the ginger beer carbonation, and balances the tangy citrus of the lime with the earthy spice of the ginger.

For the skeptics out there, the theory of superior taste is easily verifiable. Simply make or order two Moscow Mules––one served in a plastic cup, and one served in a copper mug. Take a moment to inhale deeply, enjoy a big sip, and let your senses be the judge.

The epiphany should take a matter of moments, and you soon realize why a Moscow Mule is best served in a copper mug, and why any other cup or glass is vastly inferior. The difference can be so vivid, you might even consider drinking all your favorite beverages from copper mugs, even hot tea and coffee!

The Enhanced Experience of Drinking From a Pure Copper Mug

Throwing back shots with reckless disregard is a great way to get hammered, but a terrible way to enjoy something delicious. People order cocktails for the full package––observing its creation, revelling in its presentation, and slowly savoring its captivating story and unique taste.

Not only is a cocktail a well-balanced combination of spirits and mixers, it's also about the aesthetic and function of the vessel it's served in. A cocktail should be an object of inspired beauty, presented thoughtfully in a suitable glass or mug and garnished appropriately. It should take time, because it's made by hand.

Although the copper mug has become the symbol of Moscow Mules, it can also pair exquisitely with many other cocktails. Many people seem drawn to the shine and nostalgia of the metal, and Mixologists seem impressed by the scientific properties of the copper mug. Other drinks prominently featured in copper mugs include Dark 'n Stormy, Mescal, Gin & Tonic, and Cuba Libre.

No matter how frosted a beer glass gets, nothing can keep a mixed drink colder than a copper mug. The sensation when one's lips touch the ice-cold rim with every sip is part of the unique experience.

The flavors are heightened, the aromas amplified, and the balance of vodka, lime juice and ginger beer is never watered-down by melting ice. Provided your Moscow Mule is served in a pure copper mug, the last sip should be just as robust and enjoyable as the first.

The benefits of drinking from copper mugs aren't a newfound discovery. In fact, copper has been the preferred metal for drinking vessels for thousands of years.

Gurus in India have been using copper mugs for hundreds of years, and copper goblets called Escra have been found in ancient Irish ruins. Even American settles in 1645 drank exclusively from a massive tankard made of pure copper, known today as the Virginia Tankard .

The Moscow Mule is a classic drink served in a magnificent copper mug because it tells a compelling story, and enhances your consumption experience. It is an unforgettable drink because it's served in a mug that is both more beautiful than and functionally superior to glass.

Three Reasons Moscow Mules Come in Copper Mugs

The reason your Moscow Mule is served in a copper mug is not a fluke. It is not because it's the latest trendy hipster craze. It's not just a marketing ploy (although it definitely started out as one), nor is it a conspiracy by the lobbyists for Big Copper.

Moscow Mules come in copper mugs for three reasons: taste, temperature, and presentation.

The unique experience of drinking a Moscow Mule is a balanced combination of these three elements. It's also the reason this drink is not only the most recognizable, but also consistently one of the most popular drinks in global cocktail culture history.

Taste: The natural properties of the copper oxidize the alcohol, resulting in powerful aromatics and superior flavors. The bubbles of the ginger beer stay fizzy, and perfectly counter the acidity of the fresh lime juice. It's spicy yet refreshing. Simply put, it's delicious!

Temperature: Copper is an ideal thermal conductor, instantly chilling your beverage upon creation, and maintaining a consistently arctic temperature. This prevents the ice from quickly melting and dulling the cocktail ratio, while keeping the rim refreshingly frosty with every sip. The handle also keeps your hot little fingers from fluctuating the temperature with every touch.

Presentation: A glinting copper mug looks authentic and catches the eye. It is vintage, yet modern, and tells a story of creativity, charm and resilience. It is instantly recognizable, and makes for a fine looking beverage. Yes please!

The Bottom Line

The copper mug is iconic, a great American tradition of nearly 80 years, and is the only proper way to drink a Moscow Mule. Cheers!

Did You Enjoy This Article?

Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, you might also like the following articles:  How to Clean and Care for Copper Mugs: The Definitive Guide and  Why You Should Only Use Moscow Mule Copper Mugs With Stainless Steel Lining

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Moscow Travel Meeting - 18 November, 2017

It’s that time again!

If you like to talk about travel, if you have tips or if you have suggestions, if you’re just beginning to plan a trip or if you have a trip report, we’d love to have you join us. In addition to planning tips we also have great suggestions for how to pack, what to pack it in and packing light to make your trip easier.

The Moscow Travel Group will be meeting as usual on the 3rd Saturday of each month, so next Saturday, November 18 at 10:30 at One World Café, 533 South Main Street in Moscow. We’ll be in the back room. We’re very casual so if you can’t make it at 10:30, just come in when you can. The room is reserved for us till 1:00. We’ll have a world map on the table and various Rick Steves' guide books so we’re not too hard to find.

We won’t be meeting in December due to the weather and the Christmas rush so our next meeting will be January 20, 2018.

Please let me know if you will try to make it so we can get enough chairs for all of us.

S & M will be there.

Oh good, Monte and Sharon, glad you'll be there. Also Pam will be there, I believe. Several others are planning to be there so we should have quite a turn out this month.

Just a reply so I can bumpity bump bump this thread. Yes, I’ll be there!!

Nothing clever to say, Darcy!! Sorry. 😜

Pam! How can this be? You without a witty reply? Unheard of!

What's going on? Is everyone just too busy to bump this up for me? Come on "Towns & Villages near Moscow--no visa required" Group! Show us your brilliance!

If we have time at our meeting tomorrow we could discuss some of the posts that have been appearing lately.

Hahaha...since you are Secretary you'll have to print out a list for review!!

At least parking will be easy. No Farmer's Market. No winter Market. UI kids will be headed out of town for break. All is good!

Today's the day! We're expecting 10-12 of us. Anyone else from the Forum? Anyone from Boise? Coeur d'Alene? Whitefish? You're all welcome!

If only I could say "Beam me up Scotty".

Ah, Lynn, you have to be in Paris at Hôtel Lévêque to use the "beam me up, Scotty" elevator--as Rick calls it! But I think that only gets you to the 5th floor, not to Lewiston.

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