land rover series 3 safari roof lining

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Safari (double skin) roof?

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Good Day All! I'm a newbie to the Land Rover bug and have a ton of questions, of course. I bought my LR2 in Oct 2008, just purchased an '04 Disco II SE, and already have my eyes set on either a Series III or a IIa 88" for my future purchase. Questionette #1 : I've been drooling over all the pics of the Series vehicles on the internet and keep seeing this Safari (double skin) roof. What's it for and does it actually work? Questionette #2 : Not a gearhead by any means, yet not afraid to work with wrenches, I'm keeping my sights towards the Series III (1984) simply because of the coils. Is it expensive to have leaf springs converted to a coil or is money better spent just looking for a good condition coil spring? My thoughts are that if a good condition IIa comes along with leaf springs the cost to convert to coils is better than finding a Series III that doesn't match the condition of the IIa. Thanks All.

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i don't have a safari top, mine's canvas, but everyone who has 'em will tell you they do keep you cooler, as long as you're moving. parbolic or oem springs are easy to find and install (the install part is a lie, the old springs will be a bear to ge off) coils are for goils. real men (excuse he sexist sarcasim) ride springs

'64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance '76 Spitfire 1500 '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

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Originally Posted by SixthFlick Good Day All! I'm a newbie to the Land Rover bug and have a ton of questions, of course. I bought my LR2 in Oct 2008, just purchased an '04 Disco II SE, and already have my eyes set on either a Series III or a IIa 88" for my future purchase. SixthFlick - welcome! You'll find this board to be a wealth of expertise and people who share the Rover passion. I'm in a similar boat as you - having sold a Disco a few years ago, I'm looking for a Series IIa or III to get back into the fold. As such, I've been checking out the different roof options and am interested in replies regarding the safari top as well. My plan had been to swap a hard top for canvas in the summer... although when it comes to logistics I dont have a place to store a hard top when not in use. A safari top might be a nice mix between the two. Keep us posted on your search!

The safari top is an extra thin aluminium sun sheet over the basic roof and a set of 4 vents to let air in when you are moving. They work up to a point but you are still going to be sweating in the desert. The sun sheets are not very robust so you can't climb on the roof and you have to be careful with roof racks etc. I'm currently beating out about 100 dents on the one on my project 109. They are desireable for most environemnts though. A SIII is still leaf sprung. The boingers only came in with the 90/110. If you must have coils then buy a 90. A series can be made to ride nicely with parabolic leafs but it ain't no SUV. I'd advise a bit more research before parting with money on one of these trucks as, I'm sure Nick will testify to this, there is a lot to learn and an educated buyer is a happy owner.

Converting a series truck to coils is probably not a practical solution. You need to make a decesion if you want a series truck or if you would be better suited to a defender(coil trucks) Where in NY are you located?

1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago) 1971 88 (restored and as new) 1967 88 (the next project)

Originally Posted by greenmeanie I'd advise a bit more research before parting with money on one of these trucks as, I'm sure Nick will testify to this, there is a lot to learn and an educated buyer is a happy owner. Amen! there's a lot of trucks out there for a lot of money and if thats not a concern then you can find something asap...but if you want to make an informed decision, then it takes some time, a lot of patience and some reading. I've been reading (and loving) the Restoration Manual which has a great section on finding and buying old rovers - what to look for, etc. Here are a few of the threads that have helped me from this board: Shamless plug for two of my own http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6566 http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6393 Tread on someone looking at a IIa http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6342 and everyone loves the rover p0rn here http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/sh...?t=4702&page=2 For shopping: http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28 http://www.landroverexchange.com/ Craigslist is also a nice resource - google craigs list search engines - there are tools out there to search multiple locations at once. I nerded-out and wrote my own code to scour the net for series trucks, its been worthwhile as most are not in my home state. Good luck - the hunt is 1/2 the fun (and 1/2 the frustration too )

I previously owned a '67 109 station wagon with the safari top - real cool and could carry a few people nicely. I now own a '68 109 regular (pick-up) with a pick-up top, a full hard top (not safari) and a full canvas top. I believe I now have the best situation as I basically have many vehicles in one awesome ride. I run the pick-up top in the winter and switch over to canvas once it warms up. I really like the 109 size as it offers a little more leg room, and can carry a lot more stuff. Now fitted with parabolic leafs, it rides like, well, a series land rover with parabolics.... it is what it is, but it's sure fun! As mentioned, you should do a lot more research before you buy - try to find one of us locally who can get you in a truck so you can get the feel of it. There isn't much like riding in a Series Land Rover.

'68 109 3 door with multiple personalities '03 Ford Excursion 7.3 diesel '07 Porsche Carrera S Cabriolet

Originally Posted by NickDawson Craigslist is also a nice resource - google craigs list search engines - there are tools out there to search multiple locations at once. I nerded-out and wrote my own code to scour the net for series trucks, its been worthwhile as most are not in my home state. Good luck - the hunt is 1/2 the fun (and 1/2 the frustration too ) Have you guys seen this? http://www.searchtempest.com/ Will search Craigslist and Ebay and other sites are suppose to be added. You and even set how far away to want to look. A little cumbersome but it works. Steve

71 IIa 88 01 D2

What's it for and does it actually work? others have answered the function so I'll throw in my 2cents on if it works. nice part on a 109 is that 2 vents are above the rear seat so air hits that area directly and in my case, the 2, 4-paw drive Rovers sitting back there like it. the other 2 vents are in the rear seating area so that keeps that area "air circulated" or AC. it is a nice feature when the temp is "nice" for you - it also can be like a convection oven when it is too hot! Jaime

One Life Live It

I have a 109 safari top riding on parabolics (new style leaf springs) and it is quite comfortable to drive. I've looked at converting to coils and is not worth it in my opinion. The advantage to coils is better articulation of the axles so in hard core off-road excursions the coils are better at keeping all 4 in contact with the ground. It all depends on where you plan to drive. The extra skin on the top does keep it cooler and adds extra protection agains leaks but does somehow manage to get a lot of abuse (saves the real roof from abuse). If you plan to add a full rack then maybe it's not as much of an issue but the vents are nice.

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Safari Roof

By mwy1964 August 6, 2008 in Series Forum

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Hi all, I have a Safari roof currently on my series 3 that I will be swapping for a standard roof. I keep hearing that Safari roofs are fairly uncommon and perhaps even sought after.

Anyway I am not sure if the roof has been created by a previous owner to look like a Safari roof and was looking for information here prior to getting rid of it.

The reason I think it has been fabricated is, it appears to have no internal vents to let the air into the car, which I am positive, looking at pictures of other Safari roofed Land Rovers, it should have. The roof also had a roof lining when I purchased that looked factory fitted.

If it has been fabricated someone has done a very good job as the panel is well fitted. So I suppose the questions is did all Safari roofed cars have internal air vents. The car is a 1983 series 3 SWB.

Thanks in advance

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In Portugal is common to see safari roofs without the vents.

An example:

Thanks for the feedback so far... I have had a good look at it now and it seems to be too well done to have been fabricated by a previous owner... So just maybe they started fitting Safari roofs without vents in later models... Ala Portugal.

JBorges - Thanks for the piccie thats exactly as it looks minus your roofs battle scars... Mines actually in good knick just I would have kept it except I seeing it adding some additional drag factor and I do not see much call for it when working my gundog October thru till Jan..

In fact we have 3 types of safaris roofs:

- Hardtop + double skin

- Hardtop + double skin + alpines windows

- Hardtop + double skin + alpines windows + vents

In fact we have 3 types of safaris roofs: - Hardtop + double skin - Hardtop + double skin + alpines windows - Hardtop + double skin + alpines windows + vents

That would further explain it then as it was originally a standard hardtop van..

Thanks for the info

If it's in good nick and doesn't leak like a sieve (no vents), why ditch it? They are remarkably effective (by Land Rover standards) in dissipating heat.

Good point, I prefer the look of the standard roof. The car will be mainly used as a hardtop in the winter carrying me and the dog around shoots. The summer I plan to have sticks and canvas.

Oh safari roof i like it.

maybe this mount i can buy Land Rover s3 3 door on Chiang Mai THAILAND.

• 14 years later...

On 8/6/2008 at 11:36 AM, JBorges said: In Portugal is common to see safari roofs without the vents. An example:

Hi guys! I have exactly the same tropical roof on my land rover (Series 2), but with alpine windows/vents. It has the fixed rounded back windows instead of the sliding windows more commonly seen. Does anyone know the history of this type of roof? Many thanks. Cheers. Pete.

Les ge some terminologies right - where the roof of the Series 1-3 has alpine lights etc this is a safari roof.  If the roof of the vehicle then has the extra sheet metal roof that sits about 1.5" above the roof to provide insulation this is called a tropical roof.  A safari roof also normally had vents in it and if also fitted with a tropical roof, the tropical roof had bulges in it so the vents could be opened.

So you can have a normal roof with a tropical roof on it and you can have a safari roof with no tropical roof on it or some you can.

My Series 1 with Safari Roof and Tropical Roof

My Series 3 with normal roof and Tropical Roof - but note the cutout and vents at the front - not standard.

Anderzander

13 hours ago, garrycol said: My Series 1 with Safari Roof and Tropical Roof

That’s really nice!  88 isn’t it? 

Yes is a 57 88" Station Wagon. An exceptionally rare vehicle in Australia - a few 86" exist but I have only found one other 88" Station Wagon.

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Land Rover Safari S3

How cool is this?  Grab your Belstaff Jacket and your Lanny keys & let the adventure begin.

The Series 3 is considered by many to be the most hardy version of the Land Rover ever constructed. It’s also the type of classic Land Rover that features strongly in the general public’s perception of the brand due to its many appearances in popular films and television documentaries set in Africa and India throughout the sixties.

Border Reivers are delighted to offer this Genuine and rare Land Rover Series 3 LWB 109 Station Wagon/Safari Petrol 2.25 litre 1979 Low mileage covered 63964 miles. An original factory made 12 seater Estate with a full County interior with a safari twin skinned roof, roof vents with headlining. Chassis number 93110505D with all matching factory numbers to engine and chassis. Declared manufactured 1979 Registration Date. 16th April 1980 (40 years historic tax)

An opportunity to purchase this previously much loved and now rare to the market Series 3 County Station Wagon 109” LWB  12 Seater .

On purchase, it was completely stripped down and the restoration began from the chassis upwards. The bodywork, chassis and running gear were stripped back, repaired where necessary and then reassembled in the time-honoured tradition. The engine was also rebuilt and reconditioned to match the high standards appropriate to this restoration. A similar approach was taken with the interior which is in excellent condition and a real credit, with new upholstery and roof lining through out.
The car really must be seen to truly appreciate the quality of the workmanship involved in bringing this Classic back to life.

The paintwork was in its original factory finish and the panels straight, the paint finish had lost its lustre and showing signs of aluminium where the paint had worn through. Land Rover like other manufacturers in 70’s were not acclaimed for their rust prevention technique’s, thus, Series Models having steel door frames all have various stages of corrosion. While this vehicle deserved a comprehensive respray it was fitted with five brand new doors while retaining the original front wings bonnet and all rear body panels. Documented photos of work undertaken. There have been many thousands of pounds spent over a 12 month long restoration with many new parts being extensively used throughout the 700 plus hours which have been a labour of love. I doubt you could find a better example for the money asked!

Bodywork- has been stripped to metal and re-sprayed in a professional booth with four coats of 2k Land Rover Marine Blue as per original colour. The bodywork has been meticulously prepared by a professional 1950’-60’s Porsche bodyworker to retain original factory spot welds and rivets. If you study the photos provided the spot welds are all evident as per factory.

Interior – Brand new quality Exmoor Trim with expensive special order deluxe second row seats to compliment the front row seats. Fitted throughout in thick quality insulated carpet with fully trimmed doors and fitted armrests. The roof air vents have been also refurbished also new window channels throughout. The dashboard is unmolested and in good condition there is an age related radio and speakers discreetly installed sometime back in the eighties. Chassis – is in great condition, the body was lifted from the chassis prepared and sprayed with 2 pack glass black paint.

Bulkhead – In very good condition being painted and sound insulated. Engine – 2.25 petrol 4 cylinder,now rebuilt runs smooth like a watch.

The full synchromesh gearbox, transfer box and 4-wheel drive operates smooth and quiet complimented with a Fairey Overdrive.

Recently refurbished braking system with servo assisted brakes. New wheel cylinders and brake shoes. New suspension, shockers, axle straps exhaust & engine manifold etc.

The original wheels are finished in Limestone fitted with the 7.50 R16 tyres It retains its Galvanised body cappings and front bumper as their original coating was intact (a pleasure to see) . All doors and panels have been sound proofed including floor panels, bulkhead, seat box and cabin areas using sound pads throughout making this the quietest Series 3. This car is a pleasure to drive.

Overall, this Series 3 looks fantastic and is without doubt a pleasure to drive as an everyday commuter and would be accepted at any venue.  Most importantly this is a fully functional  40 year old vehicle with low maintenance and insurance costs. This great car is only going up in value. This is a true classic being the Series 3  12 seater, understated and would attract admiring glances at the local show, shoot, pub or as we prefer the marina . What ever you choose it is a super cool ride with zero depreciation . This must be viewed & test driven its just simply fantastic. Perfect for taking the mates to the Le-Mans classic or the family to Goodwood. Don’t let it leave the country

Its road tax exempt, mot exempt & its also exempt from the London T-charge being a historic vehicle & from 7th Sept 2020, all historic vehicles will be exempt from the ULEZ. The 24/7 zone will have the same borders as the current Congestion Charge Zone.

£ SOLD

Some preservation works

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Head Liner for interior roof options ?

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Have a few things left on restoration, one is the liner for the interior roof. Wonder if there is an affordable replacement available, OR , has anyone had any luck simply spraying it with a textured paint instead ? Really I mostly just want to cover up the older glue line residue etc...and if I used a textured type paint it could cover up most of this and avoid having to get it smooth... thanks, mike  

Liner replacements: Badger Coachworks for the original look. La Salle for a much more robust fiberglass liner. There was also someone on here advertising their services but I'll let you use the search function for that. A liner serves a useful purpose in helping suppress the drumming you get when running a bare hard top. You'll find the truck a bit quieter. I know that's relative in a series.  

Or you can fit your own headliner with basically any fabric and a tub of contact cement. I used a waterproof carpet underpadding, drastically cuts down on the noise as well as helps keep the heat in.  

excellent - appreciate the leads... mike  

If your just completing a restoration don't cut it short with not addressing the Overhead Headliner with just anything, their are several ways that are inexpensive but yet tasteful options. 1) using a sputter Gun and Rhino Liner Spray needs special attention to preparing the surface that would be sprayed, would look good. Not so Inexpensive. 2) Theirs a product called "stretch form", its like a Truck Liner material but pliable and can be formed to fit just about anything. No Rubber Backing or Foam Backing to Fail. Inexpensive just material & some Spray Adhesive and your Labors. I installed this material into my Unimog years ago, still looks great! 3) Install a Proper OverHead Vinyl Headliner that's designed for it, They cost around $260 plus your labor. If i can help in any way just Ask. Bill  

HeadlinerExpress said: 3) Install a Proper OverHead Vinyl Headliner that's designed for it, They cost around $260 plus your labor. If i can help in any way just Ask. Bill Click to expand...

headliner options thanks, great info mike  

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series 3 swb roof lining

• Thread starter new landy 3 man
• Start date May 25, 2019

new landy 3 man

• May 25, 2019

Good evening, everyone.could anyone suggest what would be the best way to cover to up the cab interior roof area of a swb series 3 as some idiot has stuck carpet tiles on previous and I have removed them but it has left a mess on the interior roof. Regards Steve  

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Hi , I had a similar situation , ended up buying a sheet of 1/2 " closed cell foam , used high temp carpet adhesive to glue it up ( Roof gets hot in summer even in UK) , and then covered that in grey van lining carpet , which is quite stretchy and moulds well into the curves . All requires a bit of pre planning , and patience and a spare pair of hands helps . I made a paper template to make sure I got the cut right first time, and did a dry run with the closed cell , using the roof gutter to keep the foam in place , and it hides the edges . Can be done to look really good , I'd say better than than the factory trim , Good luck  

I made a rigid roof liner out of 3 peices of corrugated plastic with the joins in line with the roof cappings. The sheets are carpeted and held in by ally strips screwed into the roof under cappings. They tuck over the roof lip at the front and sides.  

De Villes Advocaat

• May 26, 2019

Whatever you use make sure it’s glued on with high temperature contact adhesive. The normal stuff turns back to sticky snot within months.  

Gave up on glue for that reason, mine is now screwed into place.  

• May 27, 2019

Thanks for your help chaps  

Stick em back  

• Oct 4, 2022

Joining an old thread here. Does anyone know if you can buy replacement roof linings anywhere? My Series 3 has a safari roof and the whole lot is dreadful.  

Scalleys Dad

• Oct 7, 2022

I took my hard top off and turned it upside down onto a blanket covered large pallet. I used some more old blankets to act as wedges to stop it rocking and secured it with rope tied to the pallet on the back corners and across the front. I had a half door sort of affair and that was zip tied shut. The whole thing did not take very long to set up and thus secured lining the roof was a doddle. I wish I had done the sides at the same time but I got distracted and then never got round to it. A key point about the glue is get as much ventilation around you as possible and set yourself up to be able to start and finish in one hit.  

• Oct 10, 2022

new landy 3 man said: I have removed them but it has left a mess on the interior roof. Click to expand...

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Head lining for Series 3?

• Thread starter Fash
• Start date Nov 2, 2005

Accelerating Away

• Nov 2, 2005

In Fourth Gear

I've no idea if a 90 headlining will fit, but have a look here, i've not used them so can't say if they are any good yet, but I'm thinking about it La Salle interior trim http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim/b.html for the series 3 roof or http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim/index.html for the home page.  

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It depends on how much money you want to spend! I am a stingy git, so I used cord carpet (you know, the stuff they put on office floors) and spray glue. The spray glue wasnt so good though, so second time around I used Evo-Stik. Works just fine, stops a lot of noise as well as the condensation.  

Did you take the roof off or can it be done in situ?  

Did it in situ. Cut the carpet to shape first, then applied glue bit by bit until it fitted where I wanted it. Hardest bit to do, strangely enough, was the strut across the roof above the seat back. Thats the bit you have to do though, as thats where the condensation drips down your neck from! I also did the side panels, and the seat bases and the inside of the rear bulkhead. It certainly cuts a lot of noise. Even stuck some on the doors once (but not in the current landy).  

i have lined the entire interior roof, side panels and rear bulkhead (behind seats) using 5mm felt lining. this felt is heat resistant and gives very good sound proofing. it is plyable enough to mould itself into every contour and easy to apply. this comes 2m wide. it was applied with formica glue applied to both surface area and stuck together after touch dry. the glue is best applied with a paint brush that is later discarded. another option is to use Evo-Stick non-drip glue that looks like vaseline - it is also very good but more expensive. mine is a lwb so i had more work to be done. first job is to cover the lateral roofs supports spreading the felt onto roof at least 1cm. than comes the 3 big pieces cut to measure with at least an extra 2cm all round, these are cabin roof, middle roof section and rear roof section. you need help here, 1 person holds the material up and the other aligns and applies. then i did the rear bulkhead (with the seats out), both sides. then came the side - again there are vertical and horizontal supports with have to be done first ! than cover the rectangular areas overlapping the 1cm left over from supports. every panel stuck will then have to be trimmed with a good quality craft knife and have enough blades ready as they get gooey with glue and have to be replaced frequently. it looks very proffessional in airforce blue, the vibrations and sounds it stops is amazing and the stereo unit sounds so much better as there is no 'tinny' noise to bounce back from. i sed nearly 2 gallons of glue for the job and quite a large amount of felt but it was really worth the effort. i have now bought dark grey carpet and will do the rear floor and bench sides in the same way. will go and take some pics and post them for you.  

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Very, very impressive! Really neat job...well done that Baptist! Looks better than mine I have to admit.  

Shifting Up

How much does the felt cost,and where best to get some from?  

Wow Baptist! It looks great! This week I'm carpeting the headliner, sides, and dash (SIII) with marine carpet. I've already got the dash board carpet (covering up the blasted cracked vinyl) covered in black. The vent piece was covered in charcoal grey. I still have to fix my lower dash tray as it is nothing but swiss cheese before I cover it as well (black). Hopefully between the POR15 and the kitty hair, I should get it looking good again. Originally I didn't want to carpet the dash, but the vinyl was dead and the tray was ruined so what the heck. It looks great so far. Every thing else will be done in the charcoal grey. I really like the look of the felt, but with two dogs running amok in the back, I don't think it would stay clean for very long. The good thing about the marine carpet is that it is waterproof, UV stabilized, and largely stain resistant (it is made from plastic fibers). Still debating if I will carpet the seat box as well... Looking forward to the rest of the pictures... -justin  

• Nov 3, 2005

Here are some of the pictures of the carpeting... I've still yet to cut out the scuttle vent holes on the dash panel. It'll get done tonight for sure. I'll post up some pictures of the roof as soon as I'm done... I'd still love to see your pictures of your carpeting Baptist when you are done carpeting as I'm sure it will give me ideas (and directions) on how I should go about it. You definitely put some thought into your headliner. The bulkhead/seatbox looks carpeted in the picture, but is actually sprayed in bedliner -justin  

Big Landy Fan

Great job on the headling. After laying a bit of carpet in the back the other day I just realised what a difference a headlining would make and was wondering how best to do the job. The 5mm felt looks the business. Thanks guys for posting all this great information just in time for me to benefit from it. That's the great thing about this site. There's people here with the same interests all with some knowledge or ideas to contribute. I'll be off down to Kelvin Coachtrimmers here in Glasgow at lunchtime some day to see what they can offer. My roof is off just now so it would be a good time to do it.  

I've no idea if a 90 headlining will fit, but have a look here, i've not used them so can't say if they are any good yet, but I'm thinking about it Click to expand...

theBaptist said: i have lined the entire interior roof, side panels and rear bulkhead (behind seats) using 5mm felt lining. this felt is heat resistant and gives very good sound proofing.... Click to expand...

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