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Dual Narrative Tour of the Old City | Jerusalem Tour

Jerusalem is undoubtedly among the most contended pieces of real estate in the world. In a constant tug-of-war between different religions and ethnic groups, the land is a volcano of tension- ready to erupt at any moment. As an outsider looking in, it can seem impossible to see a clear understanding of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Each and every one of us is encircled by an endless stream of biased media. However, MEJDI Tours offers a unique opportunity for those who want the full story: a dual narrative tour of the Old City of Jerusalem guided by both an Israeli and a Palestinian tour guide. 

The Dual Narrative Tour of the Old City of Jerusalem was guided by Alex, an Israeli Jew from London, and Nabil a Palestinian Christian who grew up in the Old City of Jerusalem. Symbolically, the tour kicks off at Damascus Gate, which, Nabil asserts, is mostly used by Palestinians due to its accessibility to East Jerusalem: the Arab sector of Jerusalem. As such, Damascus gate has become a symbol of Palestinian national struggle and acts as a main “flash point” for Palestinian protest in times of tension. 

Entering the Old City, Alex joked that he “teleported” us to Temple Mount, a holy site for Jews, Christians, and Muslims alike. Alex and Nabil take turns highlighting the importance of Temple Mount to Judaism and Islamic faith. For Jews, it is believed to be the location of the first two Jewish Temples and where God is most present, making Temple Mount the holiest site in Judaism. For Muslims on the other hand, the Mount is considered the third holiest site to pray. Temple Mount is the site of one of the three Sacred Mosques of Islam, and where Prophet Muhammad ascended to the divine presence of God. While we were on the Temple Mount, Nabil introduced us to Al-Aqsa Mosque, which was a truly unique experience for me since the mosque can only be entered by Muslims. We also got an inside look at the beautiful gold-plated Dome of the Rock: the home of a piece of Mount Moriah. According to the Jews, Mount Moriah was the location of the sacrifice of Isaac, Abraham’s only son. Muslims have a different belief about Mount Moriah, however. The Quran alleges that Mount Moriah was located close to Mecca, likely in Saudi Arabia, and was where Abraham sacrificed his son Ishmael. The Temple Mount as a whole is a major point of tension between the Islamic and Jewish religions, not just because of their conflicting beliefs but also because non-Muslims are prohibited from praying there.

Alex and Nabil next took us to the Western Wall, also known as the Kotel. While the Kotel isn’t technically the holiest site for the Jews, it is the closest place to the Temple Mount where they are allowed to pray, so over time it has become an important site in Judaism. To adapt to the times of Covid, there were many tents put up at the Wall to divide everyone. This is an unprecedented sight to see at the Kotel; normally Jews crowd at the front of the wall, everyone trying to get as close as possible. Alex highlighted multiple different Jewish customs that occur at the wall, such as traditional dress, the division of men and women, the kissing of the wall’s stone, and the tradition of sticking notes in the cracks of the wall. 

Growing up Jewish, I’ve only been taught Jewish history and Jewish customs and traditions. My knowledge of the Islamic religion was extremely limited. I had only received a part of the story, and I know I am not alone in that sentiment. While some remain closed-minded to other religions, cultures, and groups of people, MEJDI’s tour accomplishes something so powerful and so rare: it unites opposing voices and creates a fuller narrative.

Damascus Gate

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Damascus Gate - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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Damascus Gate

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About this place

Damascus Gate is the largest and most impressive of the eight gate entrances in Jerusalem's Old City walls. The gate, also known as the Pillar's Gate, Bab el-Amud, Shar Shchem, and the Nablus Gate, openings through the northern wall of the Old City into the Muslim Quarter. The road through the gate leads to the city of Nablus and continues to Damascus. 

The Roman Damascus Gate

The present Damascus Gate structure was built as part of the 16th-century Ottoman city walls but the gate foundations date back to the Romans. The Roman gate spanned the road connecting the Roman city of Neopolis (present-day Nablus) to the Roman Cardo, a thoroughfare through Jerusalem. Excavations uncovered part of the Roman gate and a Roman plaza. The Roman gateway would have consisted of three arched openings with the central one being twice as wide as the side arches. Inscribed above the gate is the city's Roman name "Aelia Capitolina." Only the eastern archway has survived and can be seen below the present gate. Other excavated remains include watchtowers flanking the gate. The 40-foot tall eastern tower has been preserved and stairs connect it to the ramparts. 

Engraved in the Roman plaza paving are games perhaps scratched into the stone by bored Roman soldiers on duty. A Roman milestone once stood in the plaza and would have been 72-foot high and topped with a statue of Emperor Hadrian.  The milestone or victory pillar features on the 6th century Byzantine Madaba Map of the Middle East and gives the gate its Arabic name – Bab el-Amud or Pillar's Gate. The Roman entrance to the city was used throughout the Early Muslim and Crusader period with the Crusaders adding several extensions. Christian tradition places the martyrdom of Saint Stephan outside the gate, and the Crusaders gave it the name St. Stephan's Gate.  

The Ottoman Damascus Gate

Between 1537 and 1540 the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent restored the city walls and the Damascus Gate was the first of the city gates to be reconstructed. The gate was again restored by the British during the British Mandate. In the 1970s the Jerusalem Foundation funded a restoration project that addressed issues such as parking facilities, poor access, and general neglect. The entrance plaza was reconfigured into an amphitheater that leads down to the gate. In 1985 work was done on the remains of the Roman gate and they were opened to the public as part of an archaeological garden.

Features of the Damascus Gate

Approaching the gate from outside the Old City the semi-circular amphitheater stairs lead down to the gate entrance. The gate is perhaps the most decorated of the eight Old City gates. The surrounding defensive walls are topped with crenelated battlements. The towers on either side of the gateway have arrowslits, where archers could have shot through at approaching enemies and machicolations openings where hot liquid could have been poured on attacking troops. Once through the gateway in the Muslim Quarter you can look down onto the Roman remains and ancient Roman gateway and plaza below.

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Damascus Gate

Jaffa Gate is the portal separating modern west Jerusalem from the sanctified, pilgrim-worn stones of the Old City; Damascus Gate performs the same division between the Old City and modern east Jerusalem. The most architecturally impressive of the Ottoman Old City gates, Damascus Gate is the heart of Arab Jerusalem, funneling Arab Jerusalemites into the mercantile bustle of the Muslim Quarter souk and back out again.

Like most of the Old City's gates, it goes under multiple names; the English name refers to its position at the head of the old Ottoman road to Damascus, while Arabs call it Bab Al-Amud, Gate of the Pillar, in reference to a Roman column which once stood in the area; Jews call it Sha'ar Shechem, Shechem Gate, after the famed Israelite city now lying under Nablus. The plaza outside the gate is a constant whirl of activity during the day, and visitors can participate in Jerusalem traditions like being served a cup of hot, muddy Arab coffee from an enormous dispenser carried on the back of the vendor. The area is generally safe at night, although attacks, both political and not, have been known to happen, so exercise your good sense.

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Jerusalem walking tour – self-guided old city tour 2024.

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In this article, we are going to share an independent, self-guided Jerusalem walking tour for 2024. The aim of this walking tour is to help you see all of the best attractions around the old city. We have designed a route that maximises attractions and sights but minimises your distance.

Important: There are a few challenges walking around Jerusalem – so please do read this article carefully.

We absolutely loved exploring Jeursalem and we have designed this walking tour to help share our highlights. This saying is so true “If we can do it, so can you”. And we want to show you how to do it step-by-step.

We have tried to make this walking tour as helpful as possible, including a map, a route, and fascinating things that you can see along the way.

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This walking tour aims to hit all of the “big must-see” attractions – so that you don’t miss any of the BEST bits. We have included an optional detour up the mount of Olives (you may want to time this with sunset). We have also included the route of the Via Dolorosa. As a self-guided tour you will need to navigate yourself. Take a print screen of our map or get some data on the go so that you can navigate (remember to enable GPS location on your phone to help you navigate).

Staying for a few days? Don’t miss our in depth 3 day Jerusalem Itinerary

Map of a free Jerusalem old city walking tour

Summary of this Jerusalem walking tour

How far is this walking tour.

It is worth recognizing that this is a pretty long walking tour, and there are some uphill sections, especially from the City of David back to the Jerusalem old city, and also up the Mount of Olives. An average person may find this walking tour quite challenging for one day.

Total distance (excluding the Mount of Olives) : 4.7 km 

Total distance (including the Mount of Olives) : 5.9 km

Approximate time : 4 – 6 hours (depending on stops)

Here are some ways that you can make this walking tour a little bit easier. We especially recommend this if you’re planning to do the walking tour with young kids. Firstly, some sections can be done by bus or taxi. When we share our full and in-depth description of the route, we will also indicate which sections might be done by bus or taxi. Another way to make this walking tour more approachable is to divide it into two separate days. This is a great idea if you have a little longer in Jerusalem (a 2-3 km loop on each day).

Why take a Jerusalem walking tour?

If you’re planning to explore Jerusalem, then we highly recommend taking a Jerusalem walking tour, whether you follow the route that we have suggested in this article or book yourself onto a guided tour . Taking a Jerusalem walking tour is a perfect way to see, smell, feel, and experience this unique and rich ancient city. Taking a Jerusalem walking tour allows you to see things that you may miss if you were to zip around in a taxi. What’s more, there are many parts of the Jerusalem old city which are inaccessible to cars, taxis, and bikes. Therefore, much of the old city, the only way to explore is to take a walking tour. We really enjoyed walking around the Jerusalem Old City. It is genuinely a multi-sensory experience with markets, food stalls, spice shops, and plenty of locals trying to sell you everything under the sun.

Is it better to do an independent walking tour or to pay for a guided tour?

Whether you prefer to take an independent self-guided tour or pay for a guided tour is a matter of personal preference. There are advantages to each and disadvantages to each. Personally, we love exploring new places on our own and at our own pace. However, being part of a guided tour can be a lot of fun. You don’t need to worry about navigation or getting lost, and you can just listen to your tour guide explaining and discussing the fascinating history of the places that you are exploring.

Here is a summary of the advantages and disadvantages of each type of walking tour:

Top tips if you are doing a Jerusalem walking tour

Here are a few top tips and ideas to help you make the most of a Jerusalem walking tour:

1 Wear good shoes

Firstly, we recommend that you wear a good pair of shoes. There is a lot of walking, which includes some uphill sections, and having a comfortable pair of walking shoes is highly recommended. The best type of shoes for exploring the Jerusalem Old City would be a pair of trainers. Ensure you wear comfortable socks too. This will help prevent rubbing or blisters.

2 Bring sun protection

Much of the Jerusalem old city is actually in shade and pretty cool throughout the day. However, there are some sections of this Jerusalem walking tour which are relatively exposed. If you hit these sections during the heat of the day, we recommend considering sun protection. We have found a small umbrella is an ideal way to keep ourselves and our kids covered from the Sun. However, you may also consider sun hats. We also recommend wearing a high Factor Sun cream, especially if you’re planning to explore Jerusalem during the summer months of July and August.

3 Bring a water bottle

We strongly recommend that you bring a water bottle on your Jerusalem walking tour. There are shops throughout this route selling water, and in some places, you can find water fountains, so you can top up a water bottle. The hot, dry Jerusalem climate can be very dehydrating, so make sure you always have some water in your bag.

4 Don’t feel like you need to stop for every conversation

The local culture in Jerusalem is very friendly and welcoming. As you walk around the Jerusalem Old City, you will find that locals will want to start conversations with you, find out where you are from, and have a general chat. In many cases, they are trying to get you to come into their shop or sell you something. We have found the best way to respond to this is to be polite and friendly but keep moving. Just because someone is starting a conversation with you doesn’t mean that you need to stop, and it certainly doesn’t mean that you need to buy something. The locals in Jerusalem won’t be offended if you smile and keep moving.

5 Barter for a fair price

If you’re planning to buy anything from the market stalls, especially gifts or clothing, then we highly recommend that you barter to get a fair price. Remember that you can often find the same products at many different stores, so if you’re not happy with the price, then just keep looking. We have found the most effective way to barter is to be positive and friendly, build a rapport with someone, but not feel like you need to buy it if you are unhappy with the price.

Jerusalem Walking Tour – In-Depth Guide

You can start this Jerusalem walking tour at any point on the map. However, for convenience, we have decided to start at the Damascus gate since there is a lot of accommodation here. You’re likely to get dropped off at this location if you’re traveling to the Old City from other locations in Jerusalem.

1 The Damascus Gate

The Damascus gate is a beautiful bustling Old City Gate situated on the north wall of the old city. There are plenty of Market stalls in this area, and local food is available. Also, there are also a couple of bus stations around here, and this is a great place to grab a taxi. There is also some great accommodation in the Damascus gate area. In our opinion, the Damascus gate is a wonderful place to start your walking tour in the morning. This area has a lovely tranquil feel. From the Damascus gate, you can take a short stroll North up Nablus Road to visit the beautiful Garden Tomb which opens around 8:30 a.m.

2 The Garden Tomb

Don’t miss our FULL guide for the Garden Tomb

Visiting the garden tomb with genuinely one of our highlights of our time in Jerusalem, and we highly recommend that you stop here on your walking tour. It is free to enter the garden tomb, and that is likely to take at least 30 minutes to explore and take in this beautiful attraction. The garden tomb has beautiful paths leading through a very well-kept Garden. You can see the Golgotha Cliffs, which some people believe mark the crucifixion site of Jesus. You can also visit the tomb itself and step inside the tomb to see the place where people think that Jesus was laid to rest. The garden tomb has a beautiful tranquil ambiance, and there is also a lovely gift shop. After exploring the garden tomb, head back down to the Damascus gate, walk through the gate, and start walking South into the old city. 

Open from 8.30am – 5pm.

August closed Sunday and Mondays.

Other months only closed Sunday.

3 Hidme Falafel

After you walk through the Damascus gate, you will see some Market stalls, and the path leads down a small hill to a fork Junction, and you will see a small Street side Falafel shop. They sell fresh local Falafel sandwiches, which are garnished with heaps of salad and sauces. If you’re already starting to work up an appetite, then we recommend stopping here to sample some of the best falafel in The Old City.

Being a small Street side stall, the quality is high, and the prices are low. It costs 12NIS (£2.50 or $3) for a Falafel Sandwich (which is great for Jerusalem). From here, take the road to the right (Beit Habad Street) and walk towards the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

4 The Church of the Holy Sepulcher

We highly recommend stopping at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher . This is the other main contender for the crucifixion and burial site of Jesus. The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is a very impressive, large, and Grand church with many sanctuaries, altars, and beautiful historical artwork. In the morning, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher is relatively quiet, and this is a lovely time to explore. However, it can get very busy later in the day, and it can be quite an intense experience. Just as you head into the entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, you will see a stone slab on which they believe Jesus was laid after he was crucified.

To the right, you will see some steps, and if you go up the steps, you can see an altar which stands at the place they believe Jesus was crucified. This is called the place of Golgotha. If you head back down the steps and walk around the corridors of the church, you can find the tomb where they believe Jesus was laid to rest. During the day, it is possible to enter The Chapel at the tomb, light a candle, and place your hand on the stone slab that covers the tomb. If you wish to do this, you need to be prepared to queue for at least 20 minutes, and during busy seasons, it may take much longer than this. The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is a relatively conservative church, so we recommend dressing modestly and respectfully (this applies to both men and women).

5 Muristan Market

After you exit from the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, head south to the Muristan Market. This is a beautiful and historic Market selling a range of street food, gifts, clothing, and there are also some more upmarket restaurants in this area. On average, prices in this market are a little bit higher than other places around Jerusalem, and you do need to be willing to barter if you want to get a fair price. Even if you are not buying something, this is a very beautiful walk, and if you follow the street through the market, you can get to the Tower of David.

6 The Tower of David

After you’ve explored the market, you can see the Tower of David, which is situated at the Jaffa gate on the west side of the Jerusalem Old City. If you’re interested in learning more about the history of the old city, it costs 50NIS (around £10 or $12) for an adult ticket to explore the Tower of David. You can get very beautiful views of the Tower of David from the streets around this area. The Tower of David is also surrounded by plenty of small shops, Market Restaurants, and Street Food.

7 Visit Teddy’s Park

If you have the energy, and especially if you are traveling with kids, we highly recommend walking across the road at Jaffa gate to see Teddy’s Park. This is a beautiful Green Park situated just outside the west of the old city wall. This park has water fountains which are beautiful for cooling off, and kids come here to play. Our kids really enjoyed playing in these fountains.

There are also grass slopes next to the Fountain which allow you to sit back and supervise your kids while they play. The water fountains run for 30 minutes every 30 minutes, so if the water is not running when you arrive, you will not need to wait for more than half an hour before they come on again. If you plan to do this with your kids, we do recommend bringing a towel and a change of clothes and remember sun protection because this is a pretty exposed location.

8 Western Wall

After spending some time at Teddy’s Park, head back into the old city through the Jaffa gate and walk East, following the route until you reach the Western Wall. The Western Wall is a very interesting and unique part of the Jerusalem old city. This is one of the most revered and important sites for Jews. The Western Wall is the only remaining part of the Jewish temple dating back to the second temple period. This part of the temple wall was fought to be built by Herod the Great around 19 B.C.

Although this is a very important and significant site for Jews, we found the Jewish people here to be very friendly and welcoming, and we are allowed to enter the prayer and worship areas. We even visited with our kids, and our kids were welcome in the worship area too. It is free to enter the Western Wall. In order to enter the Western Wall, you do need to go through a security checkpoint, which involves putting any bags or belongings through an X-ray scanner.

9 Hezekiah’s Tunnel

After exploring the Western Wall, walk south until you reach the city of David. The city of David is a national park situated to the south of the Jerusalem Old City. You can buy tickets for Hezekiah’s tunnel at the city of David Visitor Center. Once you have purchased your ticket, you need to take a 5-minute walk down the hill following the signs to reach the entrance of Hezekiah’s tunnel. There is someone who will check your ticket, and then you can follow the route down through Warren’s shaft until you reach the entrance of the water tunnel. 

If you don’t fancy getting wet, there is no alternative route called the Canaanite tunnel, and there are clear signs in English to help you find the right way. Hezekiah’s tunnel is a long and fascinating water tunnel, 533m, and over 2,700 years old. This fascinating water supply has a long history and supplied the city with water in times of siege. You can walk all of the way through the tunnel. There are a couple of sections of deep water at the start and end. Most of the walk through the tunnel the water is around ankle deep. 

• Adult ticket: 28NIS (around £6 or $8)
• Child ticket (5 – 18 years old): 14NIS (around £3 or $4)
• Under 5 year old FREE

This is not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. In our opinion, this is one of the best activities in Jerusalem for kids. When you reach the end of the tunnel, you can either take a shuttle bus back up to the visitor center for 7NIS. Alternatively, there is a local bus stop, and you can jump on the bus all the way back up to the Jerusalem Old City (bus 286 goes back up the hill, and you can take this bus all the way to Lion’s Gate, which is the next stop on this walking tour).

10 Garden of Gethsemane

The Garden of Gethsemane is a very peaceful and beautiful garden. Although it is not possible to walk through the trees, there is a small path around the circumference of the garden allowing you to immerse yourself in the beauty and atmosphere of this unique place. Some of the olive trees in this preserved garden date back to 1092. It is free to visit the Garden of Gethsemane.

• Summer (April – September): 8 am – 6 pm
• Winter (October – March): 8 am – 5 pm

11 Visit the Mount of Olives

Check out our full visitors guide to the Mount of Olives

After visiting the Garden of Gethsemane, there is an optional detour where you can walk up the Mount of Olives. This is an amazing place to get a view over the Jerusalem Old City, and it is also a wonderful place to go and see the sunset. The walk from Gethsemane to the peak of the Mount of Olives is around 600 m, and the path leads up a relatively steep hill, so we only recommend doing this if you have some spare energy. There is no alternative route where you can get a bus to the peak of the Mount of Olives if you’re running out of energy.

You can take buses to the peak of the Mount of Olives from Shamouil Road at the northeast corner of the Old City (we marked the location of the bus stop on the map). Buses cost 5.5NIS per person (roughly £1 or $1.20). Bus 275 or 255 goes up Mount of Olives (255 follows a less direct route and 275 follows a more direct route). Alternatively, a taxi up the Mount of Olives is likely to cost around 20NIS – 30NIS (roughly £4 – £6 or $5 – $8).

12 Walk the Via Dolorosa

After visiting the Garden of Gethsemane, we recommend heading back into the old city through the Lions Gate on the East Wall. If you follow the road, you join the route of the Via Dolorosa (Latin for “Sorrowful Way”). This is thought to be the route that Jesus walked to reach the point of Golgotha where he was crucified. Along the Route, you can see 14 different stations, which represent different events that occurred on Jesus’s walk.

The Via Dolorosa officially starts close to the Church of condemnation at the Umariya Elementary School, near the location of the former Antonia Fortress. Each of the different stations along the walk has an information sign so that you can learn more about the history and significance of each point of this route. We have marked on the route on the map, which leads all the way back to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This also marks the end of a Jerusalem walking tour. From here, you can either head north back to the Damascus gate or go back to your accommodation by the most convenient route.

What do you need to pack for a walking tour of Jerusalem?

Here is a short packing list to help you prepare for your Jerusalem walking tour. This is not a comprehensive list, but rather a list of important things to help you get started:

• Comfortable shoes
• Loose light clothing
• Scarf (for temples and churches)
• Water bottle
• Small day bag
• Sun protection (umbrella, sunscreen, or hats)
• Phone with offline maps or mobile data
• Some cash (be careful of your wallet or purse – don’t carry too much cash)

What is the best time to do a walking tour around Jerusalem?

If you plan to do a Jerusalem walking tour, we recommend starting nice and early in the morning. Even during the summer, the mornings are relatively cool, especially if you’re starting around 6:00 a.m. or 7:00 a.m. The old town is also particularly tranquil and beautiful at this time, and you will find certain places are already open.

For example, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher has Mass services at around 7am or 8am It is worth mentioning that many of the shops and Market stalls do not open till around 8am or 9am, and some of the attractions are not open till around 8am. or 9am. We would also add that it is not too hot in The Old City due to the shade of the buildings. We found that many of the old city streets were shaded for most of the day, even during August.

In terms of the time of year, Jerusalem is relatively quiet during the summer months of July and August. During these months, the temperature is very high. Most days there’s a clear blue sky, and temperatures reach to the high 30s. Alternatively, the Jerusalem High season is between the month of September and November, and it is particularly busy in these months. The weather is very nice, and the average temperatures are lower than the summer months. There is a bit of a travel boom in December (Christmas holidays). In these months, the average temperatures are fairly cold, and Jerusalem can experience rainfall as well.

Is it safe to explore Jerusalem independently by foot?

IMPORTANT UPDATE OCTOBER 2023: We are very sad to learn of the problems in Israel. The FCO currently advises against all but essential travel to Israel including Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. They also advise against all travel in Gaza and the South and in the border regions with Lebanon and Syria in the North. Remember if you travel against FCO advice you will not be covered by your travel insurance policy. If you are currently in these regions follow consulate advice and take care. Keep your eye on the FCO website for updates.

Before we get specific about Jerusalem, it’s important to recognize that any travel experience has inherent risks, and it’s important to research and be aware of the risks before you travel. We have found the information on the FCO website to be particularly helpful and relevant, especially when it comes to advice on safe travel and current affairs.

Israel has a long history of political instability and conflict. However, the Jerusalem Old City is relatively stable, and in general, it is safe to walk around. This being said, you do need to be careful and vigilant. There have been some cases of political instability and violence in Jerusalem in the past, and it is possible that such incidents may occur again. As such, we do recommend that you do your own research before traveling to Jerusalem and monitor the local news to be aware of any political instability.

It is also possible that there may be protests and demonstrations during your time in Jerusalem, particularly around sensitive political issues. In such cases, we recommend avoiding these areas and demonstrations and being cautious about attending public events. 

In terms of crime, Jerusalem is relatively safe for tourists. The Old City is well-patrolled by police. However, like in any major city, there is always the potential for petty crimes such as pickpocketing and scams targeting tourists. To minimize the risk of becoming a victim of crime, make sure you keep an eye on your belongings, avoid displaying valuable items, and be aware of your surroundings.

Life loving, adventure chasing, Mum of 3 who loves travel. Over 10 years of travel writing experience. Emma now loves to give the best tips to help other travel loving parents plan adventures with their kids. Whether you need to find the best accommodation or just need to know how to pack your bag Emma is that travelling mum who love to help you.

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Casual English Bible

By Stephen M. Miller

Map of road to Damascus

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02 yefeh nof, 03 denia square, 04 he-halutz, 05 kiryat moshe, 06 central bus station, 07 ha-turim, 08 mahane yehuda, 09 ha-davidka, 10 jaffa center, 11 city hall, 12 damascus gate, 13 shivtei israel, 14 shim'on ha-tsadik, 15 ammunition hill.

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Apostle Paul's Early Journeys Large Map

Damascus is a very ancient city mentioned early in the Bible (Genesis 14:15, 15:2) and was considered the capital city of Syria (1Kings 20:34). King David not only conquered the Syrians but also had the city occupied and the people pay him tribute money (2Samuel 8:5 - 6).

Later in its history, Damascus was conquered by the Assyrian Empire and its people taken as captives (2Kings 16:9). At the time of the New Testament the city was walled (2Corinthians 11:33).

As Saul travels to Damascus to carry out his plan to "clean up" their synagogues, something completely unexpected happens that will change not only his life but the lives of billions in the future.

But it came to pass while he was journeying, as he drew near to Damascus, that suddenly a light from heaven shined round about him . . . Then Saul (Paul) arose from the ground; but when he opened his eyes, he saw no one (Acts 9:3, 8).

A blinded Saul is led to Damascus by his traveling friends. After three days of fasting and repenting of his many sins, Saul is healed of his blindness by a believer in Christ named Ananias. He goes under the waters of baptism and receives God's spirit. He very quickly begins to explain and defend the very Gospel message he so vehemently sought to stamp out!

Saul will soon go by the name of Paul (Acts 13:9). He will be ordained an apostle with another person named Barnabas (Acts 13:1 - 3) and become the most influential person in the New Testament short of Jesus himself.

Cairo to Jerusalem, Damascus, Medina, and Mecca: 1326

Damascus, Syria

In this chapter, you will learn a lot about Islam! Before you read about Ibn Battuta's trip, you may want some background about the important prophets that he will tell about. Do you know about Abraham? Have you heard about Adam and Eve and their sons Cain and Abel? Do you know about the Prophet Muhammad? These and others will be introduced in this chapter.

Ibn Battuta left Cairo and headed to Damascus, Syria along the Royal Road. The Mamluk government organized caravans to carry pilgrims and merchants along this trail. The Mamluks examined passports, taxed the merchants, and strictly monitored who was going in and out of their territory.

This part of the Mamluk Empire had been in fierce battles with Mongol Invaders. From 1260 to the early 1300s, the Mamluk warriors were able to push the Mongol armies out from Damascus and northern Syria, and kept them from taking Egypt and Palestine. The Mongols had taken over Baghdad and much of the Abbasid Empire by 1258 capturing and destroying cities as they went.

The Mamluk armies protected the empire and kept open the trade routes and the pilgrimage routes. Along one part of the route soldiers on horseback dragged carpet or mats to smooth the sand every night. The next morning the soldiers sought out anyone who had left tracks in the sand, pursued them and punished them severely.

Damascus was like a second capital to the Mamluk, a great city that Ibn Battuta just had to see! From Damascus he could connect with a Hajj caravan and complete his trip to Mecca in safety. But there were other holy sites to see on this part of his trip: Hebron, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and more! And a stream of pilgrims came to these places under the protection of the Mamluk Sultan.

This is a map of the Mamluk Empire and the Mongol Khanates around the year 1294. If you compare this to the map of Ibn Battuta's journeys , you'll see that by the time Ibn Battuta embarked on his trip in 1325, the Mamluks had lost territory to the Mongols. Note the shifted border in the area of modern-day Iraq.

Source: The Islamic World to 1600 / The University of Calgary,1998. The Applied History Research Group.

This Turkish miniature painting shows two armies in battle about the 15th century.

Hebron is a holy site for Muslims, Christians, and Jews since it is the burial place of the "fathers" or "patriarchs" of monotheism (belief in one God): Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Near Hebron are other holy sites, including the burial place of Lot. 

It is said that Muhammad himself visited this holy site (as well as Bethlehem) to pray on his Night Journey, making the sites even more holy and worthy of pilgrimage.

The Ibrahim Mosque in Hebron

"From Gaza I travelled to the city of Abraham [Hebron], the mosque of which is of elegant, but substantial, construction, imposing and loft, and built of squared stones. . . It is said that Solomon commanded the jinn to build it. Inside it is the sacred cave containing the graves of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, opposite which are three graves, which are those of their wives." [Gibb, p. 55.]

Then he arrived in Jerusalem which was a rather small town at that time, with a population of only about 10,000. "Its defensive walls were in ruins, part of its water supply had to be brought in... and it was located on none of the important trade routes..." [Dunn, p. 56.] Yet, because of its important shrines and sanctuaries, it was an important part of Ibn Battuta's pilgrimage: "God ennoble [Jerusalem] - third in excellence after the two sacred Mosques [of Mecca and Medina] and the place of ascension of the Apostle of God [Muhammed] - God bless him and give him peace - whence he was caught up into heaven."[Gibb, p. 77.] Here he visited the Sacred Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. The silver-domed Al-Aqsa Mosque was built in 691 across from the Dome of the Rock.

Ibn Battuta stayed in Jerusalem for about one week. Because the Hajj season would begin soon, he continued on to Damascus and arrived there during the Holy Month of Ramadan, 1326. From Damascus he could join a hajj caravan going to Mecca.

Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem

"This is one of the most marvelous of buildings, of the most perfect in architecture and strangest in shape ... it has a plentiful share of loveliness ... and rare beauty... The greater part of this decoration is surfaced with gold, so that it glows like a mass of light and flashes with the gleam of lightning... In the center of the Dome is the blessed Rock ...for the Prophet (God bless him and give him peace) ascended from it to heaven. It is a solid piece of rock, projecting about a man's height, and underneath it there is a cave... with steps leading down to it..." [Gibb, vol. I, p. 79.]

Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem

Dome of the Rock, interior

Damascus had once been the capital of the Umayyad Empire founded by Muawiya, the fourth caliph and a successor of Muhammad.

Ibn Battuta was very impressed with the beauty of Damascus:

"As for Damascus, she is the Paradise of the Orient...She hath adorned herself with flowers of sweet-scented herbs, and displayed herself in brocaded vestures from her gardens... Her soil is sated with abundant water ... and places cry to thee 'Stamp thy foot; here is a cool spring for thee to wash thyself and to drink'..." [Gibb, p. 118, quoting Abu'l-Hasan Ibn Jubair]

"In this mosque also there are a great many students who never leave it, occupying themselves unremittingly in prayer and recitation of the Koran . . . The townsfolk supply their needs of food and clothing, although students never beg for anything of the kind from them."[Gibb, vol. I, p. 129]

Ibn Battuta would have studied like the students in the painting below. (It is a painting of a Muslim school built in Jerusalem in 1329 near the time of Ibn Battuta's stay.) Notice that the students sit around a wise or holy man and learn from him and read from the Koran held in a bookstand. At the end of their studies they can earn a certificate or credential so they, too, may teach or get a judgeship eventually.

Other sites are described in his travels near Damascus, one being "the Cave of Blood, above which [can be seen] the blood of Abel, the son of Adam (on him be peace), God having caused a red trace of it to remain on the stones. This is the place in which his brother [Cain] killed him and dragged his body to the cave." [Gibb, vol. I, p. 145.]

Ibn Battuta stayed in Damascus for only 24 days, and he spent much of his time studying and meeting famous teachers and judges. But "he could not have devoted his every waking moment to his studies since he was by no means free of more mundane concerns. For one thing, his entire stay in Damascus took place during the month of Ramadan, when Muslims are required to fast during daylight hours, a strenuous obligation that upset the normal routines of daily life. He also admits in [his book] that he was down with fever during a good part of his stay and living as a house guest of one of ...[his] professors, who put him under a physician's care. On top of that, he found time ... to get married again."[Dunn, pp. 61 - 62.]Ibn Battuta claimed to have earned additional credentials for his studies in Damascus to help get him a job once he finally reached India.

Another wife, a divorce, and a son!

of course he tells of the important holy men, judges, or high officials he met. He almost neglects to tell the readers that here he married again, but divorced shortly afterward, and later we learn that he had fathered a son. (He learned about having a son after he had continued on, and later sent a present of money to him. Unfortunately, the son died at the age of ten and they could not meet.) Again, wives and now children will enter and exit his story without much explanation. A Muslim man can have as many as four wives at one time. It's hard to count how many wives (and concubines, or lovers) he had in his lifetime!

Directions to the Garden Tomb

From the Old City

Exit the Old City through the Damascus Gate, cross Sultan Suleiman Street and walk straight up Nablus Road (Derech Shchem). The Garden Tomb is located on Conrad Schick Street, a lane 400 meters up Nablus Road, on the right hand side. It is clearly signposted.

By Light Rail

Get off the light rail at the Damascus Gate (Shchem Gate) stop, turn right (east) on Antara Ben Shadad Street, walk straight through the bus terminal, and then up Conrad Schick Street.

Vehicular access to the Garden Tomb is restricted. We recommend using the pay-to-park parking lot on Nablus Road (Derech Shchem) across the street from the Legacy Hotel and walking to the Garden Tomb from there. (Simply continue south on Nablus Road and then turn left up Conrad Schick Street. It is clearly signposted.)

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Middle East crisis — explained

The conflict between Israel and Palestinians — and other groups in the Middle East — goes back decades. These stories provide context for current developments and the history that led up to them.

Photos: Jerusalem's sacred crossroads endures in a time of war

Ayman Oghanna

Christians hold a candlelight procession in Jerusalem outside the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of Gethsemane, on March 28. This year, Easter, Purim and Ramadan overlapped for the first time in three decades. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Christians hold a candlelight procession in Jerusalem outside the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of Gethsemane, on March 28. This year, Easter, Purim and Ramadan overlapped for the first time in three decades.

JERUSALEM — Jewish revelers in a Purim parade pass protesters holding placards marking the days since hostages from Israel have been held by Hamas. Outside the church of Gethsemane, Christians clutching candles march after Mass on Maundy Thursday. At Damascus Gate, tens of thousands of Muslims step down stone slopes, carefully watched by Israeli security forces.

It is in Jerusalem where the ancient Jewish Temples stood, and billions of faithful believe Jesus was resurrected and the Prophet Muhammad ascended into paradise.

Amid the war in Gaza and tensions over access to major holy sites, this complex, ancient and diverse city that's central to Judaism, Islam and Christianity has remained largely peaceful.

"The present-day city contains so many religions, ethnic groups, ideologies, national identities ... all rubbing up against each other, but all very separate," says Rabbi Levi Weiman-Kelman, a former president of Rabbis for Human Rights, an Israeli organization. "Jerusalem holds out the promise of peace, of a shared space. I believe that God has called on all Jews, Christians and Muslims, Palestinians and Israelis ... to find a way to live together and share this holy city."

Over the centuries, Jerusalem has withstood invasions, sieges, attacks, division, reunification — and despite ongoing tensions, it endures as a city where people are able to practice and express their different and deeply held faiths, while adhering to strict rules and restrictions imposed on worship in this shared space.

Tension at Al-Aqsa Mosque is deepening with each day of the Israel-Hamas war

This spring, for the first time in three decades, Ramadan, Easter and Purim — holidays in Islam, Christianity and Judaism — all overlapped within a month-long period. With war raging in Gaza following the Oct. 7 Hamas-led attack on Israel, fresh restrictions on Palestinians' access to holy sites, and powerful challenges to longstanding rules about Jewish prayer at the Al-Aqsa compound, there were fears that tensions might flare uncontrollably and ignite violence in Jerusalem.

But the holidays passed with few incidents. Here are images showing the city during a holy month, and some of the people living, visiting and worshiping there.

Orthodox Jews pray at the Western Wall in Jerusalem's Old City on March 25. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Orthodox Jews pray at the Western Wall in Jerusalem's Old City on March 25.

Demonstrators hold signs urging the government to reach a deal for release of hostages taken from Israel by Hamas-led militants on Oct. 7, as they and Israeli security forces watch a parade through Jerusalem for the Jewish holiday of Purim. Despite the war in Gaza, the city hosted an official Purim parade for the first time in more than 40 years, among muted crowds and protesters. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Demonstrators hold signs urging the government to reach a deal for release of hostages taken from Israel by Hamas-led militants on Oct. 7, as they and Israeli security forces watch a parade through Jerusalem for the Jewish holiday of Purim. Despite the war in Gaza, the city hosted an official Purim parade for the first time in more than 40 years, among muted crowds and protesters.

A float in a Purim parade in Jerusalem, March 25. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

A float in a Purim parade in Jerusalem, March 25.

Rabbi Levi Weiman-Kelman stands outside his synagogue in West Jerusalem on March 6. "No one religious tradition has a monopoly on truth. Every religious tradition has, at its core, a vision of peace for all humanity," Weiman-Kelman says. "We need each other to find a way to live together. Sadly, since Oct. 7, this dream feels further away than ever." Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Rabbi Levi Weiman-Kelman stands outside his synagogue in West Jerusalem on March 6. "No one religious tradition has a monopoly on truth. Every religious tradition has, at its core, a vision of peace for all humanity," Weiman-Kelman says. "We need each other to find a way to live together. Sadly, since Oct. 7, this dream feels further away than ever."

Jerusalem as seen from the Mount of Olives. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Jerusalem as seen from the Mount of Olives.

The Dome of the Rock on the Al-Aqsa compound before Friday prayers during Ramadan in Jerusalem, March 22. It is a sacred site in Islam where the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended into paradise. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

The Dome of the Rock on the Al-Aqsa compound before Friday prayers during Ramadan in Jerusalem, March 22. It is a sacred site in Islam where the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended into paradise.

Israeli security forces in the Old City of Jerusalem before Friday prayers during Ramadan, March 22. Israel has long ensured Al-Aqsa Mosque remains a Muslim place of worship, with Jews allowed to pray at the Western Wall. But Israel's far-right national security minister urged religious Jews to enter the Al-Aqsa compound in the last 10 days of Ramadan, which many feared would lead to violence. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Israeli security forces in the Old City of Jerusalem before Friday prayers during Ramadan, March 22. Israel has long ensured Al-Aqsa Mosque remains a Muslim place of worship, with Jews allowed to pray at the Western Wall. But Israel's far-right national security minister urged religious Jews to enter the Al-Aqsa compound in the last 10 days of Ramadan, which many feared would lead to violence.

Men prepare for Friday prayers at the Al-Aqsa compound during Ramadan in Jerusalem. It is a sacred site in Islam, where the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended into paradise. Despite severe restrictions on Palestinians entering from the Israeli-occupied West Bank, more than 1.5 million worshipers visited the Al-Aqsa compound during the holy month of Ramadan, Jerusalem police said. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Men prepare for Friday prayers at the Al-Aqsa compound during Ramadan in Jerusalem. It is a sacred site in Islam, where the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended into paradise. Despite severe restrictions on Palestinians entering from the Israeli-occupied West Bank, more than 1.5 million worshipers visited the Al-Aqsa compound during the holy month of Ramadan, Jerusalem police said.

"Jesus was not born in Texas, he wasn't from Europe, he is not from Africa. He is from Palestine. Christianity started from Jerusalem," says Rafi Ghattas, a scout leader and coordinator for Palestinian Christian youth, in Jerusalem on March 28. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

"Jesus was not born in Texas, he wasn't from Europe, he is not from Africa. He is from Palestine. Christianity started from Jerusalem," says Rafi Ghattas, a scout leader and coordinator for Palestinian Christian youth, in Jerusalem on March 28.

A boy prepares palms while Christians hold a procession on the Mount of Olives outside Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

A boy prepares palms while Christians hold a procession on the Mount of Olives outside Jerusalem on Palm Sunday.

A woman lights a candle in the Tomb of the Virgin in Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, March 24. The war in Gaza deterred many visitors and pilgrims from visiting Jerusalem during Easter. Palestinian Christians in the Israeli-occupied West Bank were among those affected by Israeli restrictions on Palestinian travel into Jerusalem. Men had to be age 55 and older, and women had to be 50 and over. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

A woman lights a candle in the Tomb of the Virgin in Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, March 24. The war in Gaza deterred many visitors and pilgrims from visiting Jerusalem during Easter. Palestinian Christians in the Israeli-occupied West Bank were among those affected by Israeli restrictions on Palestinian travel into Jerusalem. Men had to be age 55 and older, and women had to be 50 and over.

Christians hold a procession on the Mount of Olives outside Jerusalem on Palm Sunday on March 24, commemorating the day that Christians believe Jesus entered Jerusalem and was greeted by followers waving palms. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

Christians hold a procession on the Mount of Olives outside Jerusalem on Palm Sunday on March 24, commemorating the day that Christians believe Jesus entered Jerusalem and was greeted by followers waving palms.

A woman kisses the Stone of Anointing on March 24, inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Christians believe the body of Jesus was prepared for burial. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

A woman kisses the Stone of Anointing on March 24, inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Christians believe the body of Jesus was prepared for burial.

An Orthodox Jew prays at the Western Wall in Jerusalem's Old City on March 25. Above the Western Wall is the compound revered by Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary and by Jews as the Temple Mount. Ayman Oghanna for NPR hide caption

An Orthodox Jew prays at the Western Wall in Jerusalem's Old City on March 25. Above the Western Wall is the compound revered by Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary and by Jews as the Temple Mount.