matjiesfontein train trip

Museum Explorer SA

Your guide to exploring South Africa’s Cultural and Natural Treasures

• Western Cape

Matjiesfontein Transport Museum

• Central Karoo

AVAILABLE:  Guided Tours | Family Friendly |  Accommodation | Tourist Experiences | OPEN:  Monday – Sunday |  MORE INFO :  Museum Website |  Facebook Page | Phone: +27 (0)23 561 3011

Table of Contents

Introduction

Nestled amid the vast expanse of the Great Karoo, the Matjiesfontein Transport Museum invites both history enthusiasts and curious travelers to embark on a journey through the corridors of South Africa’s colonial past. This charming village, adorned with the shadow of the White Mountains and resonating with the echoes of a bygone era, offers a seamless blend of scenic beauty and historical significance. As you traverse the cobbled streets of Matjiesfontein, the air becomes imbued with the stories of yesteryear, setting the stage for a truly immersive exploration into the captivating history that unfolds within the village.

About Matjiesfontein

Matjiesfontein is situated just off the N1 highway, 28 kilometers west of Laingsburg. It’s a village steeped in history, existing as a living testament to South Africa’s British colonial past.

RELATED: South Africa’s Museums: Over 300 Museums to Explore in the Country

Once a crucial stop on the railway journey from Cape Town to Kimberley and Johannesburg, Matjiesfontein has been lovingly restored by the owners of the Lord Milner Hotel and boasts two wonderful museums, the Transport Museum and the Marie Rawdon Museum . The charm of the village makes it a popular stopover for those traveling through the vast landscapes of the Great Karoo.

About the Museum

At the edge of Matjiesfontein lies the Transport Museum. This museum serves as a captivating window into the late nineteenth-century lifestyle and culture of the Cape Colony.

RELATED: Browse more museums in the Central Karoo

As visitors step into this treasure trove, they are greeted by a remarkable collection of vintage cars, including Chevys, Dodges, and the illustrious Royal Daimlers from King George VI’s 1947 tour. Beyond automobiles, the museum boasts antique bicycles, an iconic red double-decker London and a fascinating steam train with carriages that beckon exploration. Each artifact is a portal to a bygone era, offering a tangible connection to an age of travel and a glimpse into the cultural tapestry of Matjiesfontein’s colonial past.

Interesting Facts

• Time Capsule Architecture: Matjiesfontein is a living time capsule of colonial architecture. The village’s main road boasts meticulously restored colonial-era buildings, providing a visual feast for history and architecture enthusiasts. Strolling along this road is akin to stepping into the late nineteenth century, surrounded by the charm of a bygone era.
• Railway Romance: At the height of South Africa’s railway prominence, Matjiesfontein served as a vital stop on the long journey from Cape Town to Kimberley and Johannesburg. The fully restored railway station, not only preserves the nostalgia of rail travel but also offers a glimpse into the village’s role as a historical railway hub.
• Royal Relics: The Transport Museum showcases an extraordinary collection of vintage cars, including two Royal Daimlers from King George VI’s 1947 tour of South Africa. These well-preserved relics provide a tangible link to the royal connections of Matjiesfontein, offering visitors a chance to be immersed in the regal history of the village.
• Diverse Transport Tapestry: Beyond the allure of vintage cars, the museum unfolds a diverse tapestry of transportation history. Antique bicycles, an ex-London bus, and a steam train with carriages offer a multi-dimensional exploration. Visitors can step inside these historical vehicles, creating an interactive experience that goes beyond mere observation, making the Matjiesfontein Transport Museum a destination for hands-on historical discovery.

Photo Gallery

Physical Location

Tourist Experiences

Make a trip of it and visit some of the other recommended museums, tourist attractions and experiences in the area.

Beaufort West Museum

Fransie Pienaar Museum

Laingsburg Flood Museum

Matjiesfontein Marie Rawdon Museum

As you leave the Matjiesfontein Transport Museum , the echoes of a time gone by linger in your mind. The meticulously preserved artifacts and the colonial charm of the village create an immersive experience, inviting you to reflect on a pivotal period in South Africa's history. For those with a passion for history, Matjiesfontein and its Transport Museum offer a unique and enriching adventure.

Share this:

More museums.

• Eastern Cape

Barkly East Museum

Walter Battiss Art Museum

Discover South Africa’s Natural History: 13 Museums to Explore

South Africa’s War and Conflict Heritage: 33 Museums You Should Visit

Aerial Adventures: Exploring South Africa’s 5 Best Aviation Museums

• KwaZulu-Natal

Fort Nongqayi Museum

You may have missed.

Matjiesfontein…taking a trip down memory lane

The original version of this post is in my ‘Flashback’ article in Khuluma inflight mag, Jan 2018 edition

on the deserted train tracks at Matjiesfontein Station

M atjiesfontein in the 70’s was magical. To ten year old me it was picture perfect, frozen in time. On the short High Street stood an ox wagon straight out of my Standard Three history book and next to it a red London bus, just like the one my brother used to push around his bedroom floor.

Arriving on the Shosholoza Meyl to chilled aperitifs and beautiful scratchy melodies of yesteryear- a beautiful touch by Wine Flies Tours

Following the Forgotten Route

T oday, when you exit the well preserved station, you’re met with a cheeky excuse of a main road bordered by a single row of quaint cottages and stores. Recently I returned as a guest of a superb tour outfit known as  Wine flies Tours.   Their two day Forgotten Routes  itinerary began in the Cape Town CBD with an historical walkabout to contextualise the trip. After tea at the legendary Kimberley Hotel on Roeland Street,  we drove to the Kirabo wine farm in Rawsonville   in the beautiful Breede River Valley for a wine tasting and then proceeded to Worcester about an hour away, to catch the Shosholoza Meyl.  The ride took me back to train rides to Simonstown with my Grandmother to see the warships and eat fish and chips in the harbour. This particular journey took us inland, retracing a path forged by the settlers of olde, and through variegated Klein Karoo landscapes until our carriage rolled to a stop at Matjiesfontein Station, about two and half hours later.

Ghosts, a London bus and classic cars

F our decades on, Matjiesfontein feels more like an abandoned movie set, but deserted it certainly is not, for behind the Victorian facades, tourists were browsing at the Old Post Office gift shop, and ordering frothy cappuccinos and creamy milk tart at The Coffee House. At the Laird’s Arms pub, while John Theunissen gave us a  tune on the pianola, head barman Joseph Apollis told stories about what it was like growing up in Matjiesfontein. “ We played with stoot karretjies (push carts) and cattys, and there were ghosts back then too, ” he added as he mixed our G&T’s, perpetuating the legend that the town is haunted. Just then, a trumpet sounded, our cue to board the Beefeater bus for the shortest sightseeing tour ever. The double decker trundled at a snail’s pace past the pink church, the courthouse and jail, the dusty old cricket pitch where the first match took place in 1889, and the Transport Museum housing steam trains, antique bicycles, vintage cars, and, the pride of the collection, two Royal Daimlers from King George VI’s 1947 tour of South Africa. All of that, in ten minutes flat!

The double decker tour bus

M atjiesfontein, one of South Africa’s most cherished National Heritage Sites, sits on the edge of the Great Karoo. Founded in 1884 by Scotsman James Douglas Logan, it was a tiny bastion of Queen Victoria’s England and a thriving colonial enclave. It’s primary attraction was the spa he built where patients with chest ailments came to convalesce in the hot, dry climate. The same building, also used as a command centre during the Anglo Boer War, is now known as the Lord Milner, the iconic hotel on Logan Street, the 300 metre main road that ends as abruptly as it begins. Matjiesfontein’s maintenance and restoration is credited to hotelier David Rawdon (1924-2010) who purchased the entire hamlet in 1975, reversed its decline, and put it back on the map.

the iconic Lord Milner Hotel

Sleepover at Rietfontein Lodge

W ine Flies put us up in Rietfontein Lodge , my accommodation of choice, a 5 minute walk from the Lord Milner.  The self catering cottages are simple, rustic and charming, the linen crisp and the atmosphere authentic. And it’s price perfect! At night, you gather at the farmhouse across the veld for a barbecue with incredible homestyle food cooked by Eugenie Theunissen whose family goes back many generations. Her ‘braai’ toasties are the best!

Rietfontein Lodge, my accommodation recommendation

Comfy rooms, great linen, blankets, towels, and it’s beautifully kept. I loved it!

The journey home

A fter breakfast at the Lord Milner, our road trip resumed, this time via the Koo Valley.  Lunch was  potjiekos with the farmer-owner of Oom Batt se Winkel, where you’ll feast on unforgettable pumpkin pie and other traditional Afrikaner fare. Next is a stop at the enormous wine emporium  Platform 62 in Ashton and then it was on to a lavender farm called Owls’ Rest in Robertson, where they sell the most amazing products made from the flower.

South African farm food favourites -warm home made bread smeared with apricot jam and a slice of pumpkin pie on the side

Owl’s Rest and Shoppe…all things lavender, and limoncelo!

M atjiesfontein is a popular weekend escape clsoe enough to Cape Town for an overnight staycation. This is truly beautiful South African territory, rich in heritage. It’s a good place to breathe in the Karoo air and sooth your city angst.  As Eugenie herself says, “it’s ‘rustig’ here, peaceful and quiet”.

I f you’re looking for a more interesting way to discover Cape Town and surrounds, you have to explore with Wine Flies. They offer a fabulous interactive experience that takes you back in time and with expert guides like Lord Riaan and his team, you’ll uncover some of the history of the Mother City, do wine tastings in private cellars, take a train ride through the Karoo, discover Matjiesfontein in a unique way, do a country sleepover in a wonderful rustic lodge, a night walk through the town, see vintage cars and a museum and so much. 

Tour guide, ‘Lord’ Riaan, on Green market Square, where your city stroll will start

Paris, always loaded with memories & sentiment

Reduce, reuse & recycle – there is no planet b, you may also like, norwegian viva’s debut cruise from rome to lisbon, travel trends, post pandemic ~ by allison foat, paris on the cheap (er) c’est possible mes..., gorilla trekking in rwanda, ragazzi in robertson, lausanne – a week in winter, what to do in tulbagh, cabins, containers & cottages – a few of..., wolseley the wonderful, maldives ~ a look at biodiversity.

• Matjiesfontein Tourism
• Matjiesfontein Hotels
• Matjiesfontein Bed and Breakfast
• Matjiesfontein Vacation Rentals
• Flights to Matjiesfontein
• Matjiesfontein Restaurants
• Things to Do in Matjiesfontein
• Matjiesfontein Travel Forum
• Matjiesfontein Photos
• Matjiesfontein Map
• All Matjiesfontein Hotels
• Matjiesfontein Hotel Deals
• Matjiesfontein
• Things to Do
• Restaurants
• Vacation Rentals
• Travel Stories
• Rental Cars
• Add a Place
• Travel Forum
• Travelers' Choice
• Help Center

Matjiesfontein trip overnight - Matjiesfontein Forum

• Africa    
• South Africa    
• Western Cape    
• Matjiesfontein    

Matjiesfontein trip overnight

• United States Forums
• Europe Forums
• Canada Forums
• Asia Forums
• Central America Forums
• Africa Forums
• Caribbean Forums
• Mexico Forums
• South Pacific Forums
• South America Forums
• Middle East Forums
• Honeymoons and Romance
• Business Travel
• Train Travel
• Traveling With Disabilities
• Tripadvisor Support
• Solo Travel
• Bargain Travel
• Timeshares / Vacation Rentals
• Western Cape forums
• Matjiesfontein forum

Please advise.

3 replies to this topic

Here is information on the train trip to and from Matjiesfontein.

http://www.capetownmagazine.com/things-to-do-cape-town/Hello-Matjiesfontein/15_52_53381

The Lord Milner certainly is (was?) a piece of colonial South African History and we always stop there for coffe or tea when travelling the N1 north or south (or going to Sutherland and places north in the Northern Cape as the road divides here).

However I say is/was because David Rawdon, one of South Africa's great hoteliers, who owned and developed the Lord Milner (and the whole of Matjiesfontein village) for over 40 years, died just one year ago this month. His nephew Jonathan Rawdon then took over but there have been some rumors that the hotel may not continue too much longer. Latest indications are however that the hotel and village will continue as before. I certainly hope so!

Tripadvisor staff removed this post at the original author's request.

My brother went there 2 weeks ago, by rail. Snag was the train was 2 hours late and arrived after dinner . . . . .

• Train trip to MTjiesfontein. Oct 08, 2018
• Matjiesfontein trip overnight Nov 24, 2015

Matjiesfontein Hotels and Places to Stay

No Record Found

Home » Travel Destinations » Matjiesfontein: Explore Its Historical Buildings

Explore Matjiesfontein's Historic Buildings

A journey through time.

Discover the captivating history of Matjiesfontein, South Africa, through its iconic historic buildings. Explore the town’s rich past, from its Victorian-era architecture to its railway heritage, and immerse yourself in a charming blend of old-world charm and modern allure.

Time Travel at Matjiesfontein

You will step back in time when you visit Matjiesfontein, founded in 1884 by, the Scottish railway man, James Douglas Logan. He arrived (age 20) i n South Africa by mere accident when his ship was wrecked in Simon’s Bay (now known as Simonstown).

In 1968 David Rawdon bought the entire town (in recommendation by his mother)  with the vision to turn the town into his own, high colonial-style village. 

During World War II this quaint little Victorian town was known for selling piping hot soup to passing train passengers. It was an outpost of the British empire.

David Rawdon restored the entire town to have it declared a national monument in 1978.

After David Rawdon’s death in 2010, and still single at the age of 86, his last will and testament provided for his carer, and a trust to manage the town.

Nearest Airport

• How to get to Matjiesfontein

Afrikaans and English.

The South African Rand’s currency code is ZAR, or simply just R.

Cape Town International, about 236 km (about 300 miles) from Matjiesfontein.

• By Train:  You may want to book with Shosholoza Meyl (+27 (0)11 774 4555 to leave from Cape Town train station. It’s about a five-hour train ride of which the Hex River Valley will be a treat to view. Relax with some low-key refreshments, or enjoy an Amarula!
• Rovos Rail makes a 2-hour stop at this hidden gem every Sunday morning and every Monday evening.
• By Air: There is a small landing strip for helicopters only. 
• By Bus: Bus operators, such as TransLux Express and Greyhound, service the route frequently.
• By Car: A drive from Cape Town is about 2h50min.

Weather guide

• June / July are the coldest months reaching highs of about 18 degrees Celcius. The nighttime temperatures go down to about 2 degrees Celcius.
• January / February are the warmest months reaching highs of about 22 degrees Celcius. The nighttime temperatures go down to about 16 degrees Celcius.

Things to do

• Bicycle rides
• Visit the Coffee House
• Delve into the past at the Marie Rawdon Museum, housed in the train station. Named after a former resident, this museum showcases a diverse array of artifacts, photographs, and documents, offering a glimpse into Matjiesfontein’s intriguing history. From the pioneering days to the Anglo-Boer War, the exhibits provide a comprehensive understanding of the town’s evolution.
• Learn about Matjiesfontein’s history on the London Double Decker Bus

The Laird's Arms Pub

A quaint british pub experience.

Nestled within the Lord Milner Hotel, The Laird’s Arms Pub invites you to step back in time. With its authentic British pub atmosphere, wooden interiors, and historic memorabilia, this watering hole allows visitors to immerse themselves in the town’s colonial past. Savor a pint of beer or a classic cocktail as you soak in the nostalgic ambiance of this beloved establishment.

The Coffee House

As you stroll through Matjiesfontein, a visit to the Coffee House is a must. Originally a blacksmith’s forge, this historic building now houses a delightful coffee shop that beautifully blends old-world charm with contemporary vibes. Enjoy a cup of freshly brewed coffee or indulge in homemade treats while soaking in the quaint atmosphere and admiring the building’s historic character.

Postal Connection to Kimberley

The post office served as a vital link for communication and commerce between Matjiesfontein and the diamond mining town of Kimberley. The diamond mines in Kimberley were of immense economic importance to South Africa, and the efficient transportation of mail and parcels between the two towns facilitated business transactions and personal correspondence.

Fire truck in front of the Lord Milner Hotel

The fire truck in front of the Lord Milner Hotel in Matjiesfontein is a unique and historic feature that adds to the town’s charm and nostalgia. The vintage fire engine is a 1929 Ford Model AA, which has been carefully preserved and maintained over the years.

Historical Significance

The fire truck played a crucial role in protecting the town from fires during the early 20th century. In the past, Matjiesfontein, like many small towns, faced the risk of fires that could quickly spread and devastate the wooden buildings that characterized the era. The fire engine served as the town’s first line of defense against such disasters, and its presence in front of the hotel symbolizes the importance of fire safety in the town’s history.

The peak bloom for yellow wildflowers in Matjiesfontein

The blooming of yellow wildflowers in Matjiesfontein, like many other wildflower regions, is dependent on several factors, including climate, weather conditions, and the specific plant species in the area. Typically, the yellow wildflowers start blooming in the late winter to early spring months.

In South Africa, the Western Cape region, where Matjiesfontein is located, experiences its rainy season during the winter months from June to August. The rains bring much-needed moisture to the soil, which triggers the growth and blooming of wildflowers.

The peak bloom for yellow wildflowers in Matjiesfontein is often between August and September, but it can vary slightly from year to year. During this period, you can witness vast carpets of yellow flowers covering the landscape, creating a stunning natural spectacle.

The Transport Museum

A journey through railway heritage.

Step into the Transport Museum to experience Matjiesfontein’s fascinating railway heritage. This quaint museum houses a collection of vintage locomotives, carriages, and memorabilia from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The historic red London bus, which shuttled passengers between the hotel and the train station in the past, adds a unique touch to the exhibits. Immerse yourself in the nostalgia of the railway era and gain insights into the pivotal role Matjiesfontein played as a strategic railway stop.

The Historic Church

A spiritual and architectural gem.

At the heart of Matjiesfontein stands the town’s historic church, a spiritual sanctuary with a captivating architectural charm. Built in 1895, the church represents a significant piece of Matjiesfontein’s heritage, reflecting the town’s deep-rooted sense of community and faith.

Architecture and Design

The church boasts stunning Gothic Revival architecture, characterized by its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and intricate stained glass windows. The design, reminiscent of classic European churches, adds to the town’s old-world charm. The building’s solid stone structure stands as a testament to the craftsmanship of the era and the dedication of the locals who constructed it.

Neutral tones: blend in with nature and avoid attracting wildlife. Opt for comfortable, lightweight clothing for hot weather.

Where to stay in Matjiesfontein

A victorian treasure, lord milner hotel ***.

The Lord Milner Hotel, built-in 1899, stands as the centerpiece of Matjiesfontein’s historic charm. This grand Victorian-style hotel, with its iconic wrap-around verandas, exudes elegance and nostalgia. Once a favorite retreat for British soldiers during the Anglo-Boer War, the hotel has hosted notable figures like Sir Winston Churchill. Today, visitors can indulge in its charming ambiance, filled with antique décor and relics, while enjoying modern comforts.

Plan your trip to Matjiesfontein

Fly when it is the cheapest.

Celebrate and save on seasonal and holiday deals.

Compare car rental rates

Explore Africa

"africa's the place. it's like nowhere else." - francesca marciano.

Hmm, must be

What makes or breaks a holiday?

Planning a trip revolves around key elements like flights, accommodation, activities, and cuisine. They form the foundation of a successful travel experience. It’s like building a well-rounded story, and these pillars indeed play a crucial role.

• Flights determine your journey,
• accommodation influences your comfort,
• activities shape your memories, and
• trying local cuisine adds flavor to your adventure.

Reviews from our readers….

For More Travel Chronicles And Chats, Follow Us On  Facebook , Or Stay Up To Date On Travel News When You Follow Us On  Twitter .

Share or Save !

Ready to take flight?

Explore exclusive deals from our trusted partners: Aviasales for budget-friendly options, CheapOAir for great discounts, CheapTickets for diverse choices, and Travelstart for hassle-free bookings. Experience luxury with Qatar Airways , Swiss International , Austrian Airlines , and Lufthansa . Seeking adventure? Fly with the style of Iberia or the iconic Virgin Atlantic . Treat yourself and fly with Ethiopian Airlines awarded by World Travel Awards as Africa’s Leading Airline in 2020, 2021 (in Economy Class), and 2023.  Your journey starts here – click the links that suit your travel dreams.

• Today's Cruise Deals
• Booking.Com Deals
• Virgin Atlantic UK Deals!
• Groupon Deals
• Tours & Travel deals
• Cheap Flights
• Train Tickets
• Activities & Excursions
• Airport Transfers
• Food Experiences
• FirstLeaf Wine Club Offer
• Learn A New Language

Travel and Home uses affiliate links at no extra cost to you. Our disclaimer information includes “Advertiser Disclosure”, for example, Amazon.

Copyright ©2023  TRAVEL AND HOME ®  All Rights Reserved.| Disclaimer  |  Privacy & Cookie Policy   |  About Us   

Explore Matjiesfontein

Plan your trip to matjiesfontein: best of matjiesfontein tourism.

Essential Matjiesfontein

Experience the extravagance of Victorian and Edwardian-era train travel on a journey aboard one of Rovos Rail’s gleaming, gloriously restored vintage trains.

Experience the extravagance of Victorian and Edwardian-era train travel on a journey aboard one of Rovos Rail’s gleaming trains, all which were saved from the scrap heap and painstakingly restored to their former glory. Interiors are exceedingly better than original, featuring fine wood panelling, classic period furniture and modern luxuries such as showers and safes.

The superbly refurbished Rovos Rail trains carry 72 passengers in comfort and style. Each one comprises of air-conditioned sleeper coaches, a lounge car, one or two dining carriages as well as an opulent observation car with a unique glassed-in rear, which opens out onto a covered balcony. The dress code is smart casual throughout the day, formal in the evenings.

Journeys range from 48 hours (Pretoria to Cape Town or vice versa) to a 15 day epic traversing through Southern and Eastern Africa (Cape Town to Dar Es Saleem). You can even go on a golf safari across South Africa, playing at the best courses in the country. Off-rail excursions vary according to your itinerary, with the shortest trip calling in at Matjiesfontein, a charming well-preserved 19th century town, and a stop to see the Big Hole, the world’s largest manmade excavation.

About Rovos Rail

Where to board.

• Travel in style on board painstakingly restored vintage trains
• Discover the romance and luxury of a bygone era
• Dine in gracious pre-war dining carriages
• Savour the view from the unique observation car
• Enjoy butler service in your sumptuous sleeper suite
• Off-train sightseeing tours as per itinerary

*Some activities are available at extra cost.

Rovos Rail owns and operates a private station in Capital Park, Pretoria. This magnificent colonial-style building houses a small railway museum and is located about 5km from the government operated Pretorian Rail and Gautrain terminal. Other stations used for departure include Cape Town, Durban and Dar es Salaam – these facilities are nationally owned and operated. Your agent will advise you precisely from where your train will depart.

Popular Rovos Rail Journeys

These unforgettable rail journeys are one of the best ways to explore the continent, linking renowned destinations such as Cape Town and Pretoria (South Africa), Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), Windhoek (Namibia) and Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania); as well as the Trail of Two Oceans which links Dar es Salaam in East Africa to Lobito in Angola in West Africa, the first time ever a train has crossed the African Continent from East to West.

Cape Town and Pretoria

3 NIGHTS • 1600km

Dar es Salaam

15 NIGHTS • 5530km

Trail of Two Oceans

15 NIGHTS • 4300km

Call us now

AU +61 3 9249 3777 1300 363 302

USA +1 (646) 217 0354

UK +44 (20) 4518 8166

Enquire Now

Other south africa train journeys.

Be transported to an earlier, more glamorous era while travelling by train across the spectacular landscapes of southern Africa. Our award-winning luxury trains boast comfortable guest cabins, exceptional cuisine, old-fashioned service and itineraries with outstanding off-train excursions.

The Blue Train

The multi award-winning Blue Train first launched in 1946 and today remains synonymous with the highest standards in luxury train travel.

Other South Africa Itineraries

The following tours can be easily tailor-designed to your personal travelling requirements, are private and independent. Please contact us to begin custom designing your personalised South Africa experience.

Ultimate South Africa

Discover the very best of South Africa from it’s iconic wildlife reserves to it’s romantic railways

Kruger and The Cape

Discover some of South Africa's best known attractions on this journey that begins with a big game safari in the world-renowned Sabi Sand and concludes in beautiful Cape Town.

South Africa in Luxury

Travel from cosmopolitan Durban to Cape Town in utmost luxury, taking in two beautiful and unusual private game reserves in between: Phinda and Grootbos.

Winelands, Garden Route and Safari Self Drive

Explore Cape Town, self-drive the famous Winelands and Garden Route regions and finish with a "Big 5" safari at Shamwari Game Reserve.

South Africa and Victoria Falls Family Safari

Go gameviewing with the kids in two excellent malaria-free "Big 5" reserves in South Africa: Pilanesberg and Madikwe. Then, fly to Zambia for a tour of Victoria Falls.

South Africa Cape Explorer

Travel with the family from Cape Town to beautiful Grootbos Private Game Reserve. At malaria-free Kwandwe, experience an unforgettable "Big 5" safari.

Say ‘I Do’ in Africa

Tie the knot at a stylish resort in Mauritius, before a honeymoon in South Africa staying at two exclusive safari lodges adjoining Kruger National Park and exploring Cape Town.

Cape, Kruger and a Castaway Island

This 13 day African getaway has it all: Cape Town, the winelands, Kruger National Park and even a castaway island off the coast of Mozambique.

African Safari Extravaganza

This epic itinerary encompasses an epic five-country train journey aboard the Rovos Rail, a safari in Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti as well as a beach getaway on the Indian Ocean coast.

Cape Town and Garden Route Discovery

Experience the sites of Cape Town, Cape Winelands, the Karoo semi-desert and the lush forests and lagoons of the famous Garden Route.

Malaria Free Safari

This malaria-free South Africa safari means that you don't need to worry about taking medication on your holiday. This is an ideal option for families with young children or travellers with health concerns.

Essential South Africa and Victoria Falls by Rail

Experience an unforgettable safari in the Sabi Sand Private Reserves, be awed by Victoria Falls then journey aboard Rovos Rail back to Johannesburg.

Best of South Africa

Experience the very best of South Africa from vibrant Johannesburg and spectacular Cape Town to seeking out the 'Big 5' on safari and discovering the beautiful Cape Peninsula.

South Africa and Victoria Falls

Discover Zimbabwe's magnificent Victoria Falls, go on a safari in search of the Big-5 in South Africa and visit scenic Cape Town.

Find out more about our tailor made African safaris. Get in touch with one of our Destination Specialists.

Subscribe below to keep up to date, find out more about our tailor made african safaris, more of south africa, e-newsletter.

Sign up to receive updates about exciting journeys, special offers and more

The Karoo has an oasis, just take the train to Matjiesfontein

Let’s put it this way, there are places that just deserve a visit. Places that will stay on your mind. Places like Matjiesfontein.

A while ago I took a train (the Shosholoza Meyl) from Cape Town to Matjiesfontein. The luxury blue train also stops at Matjiesfontein, but the Shosholoza Meyl is a cheaper option for only R80 per person. It’s a cool idea for a day- or weekend-trip from Cape Town.

Where the heck is Matjiesfontein, you may ask? Well, it’s in the Klein Karoo, in the Western Cape, 250km from Cape Town. Easy to find, Matjiesfontein lies on the N1 Freeway which connects Cape Town with Johannesburg. An oasis in the barren surrounding landscape I arrive at the Matjiesfontein train station and feel transported to another time. It feels old, comfortable, it feels like a movie set. The guys from the Lord Milner Hotel pick us up in their funny red retro uniforms and we head off to the Laird’s Arms Bar. This is not only a beautiful old wooden pub with a fireplace (really necessary, since the Karoo nights are really cold) but also a place that makes you feel like you’re starring in the movie ’Little House on the Prairie’. Awesome. I watched it often in my childhood and it’s awesome to star in it myself now – just wearing the wrong clothes. The four musicians at the Laird’s Arms Bar are playing the most loveliest songs. An older guy at the bar tells me that he comes here for the weekends to visit his mom and tries to convince a lady (who is also not dressed quite right for the setting) to dance. Matjiesfontein makes me happy. It feels like a happy world that is great to live in right in the middle of nowhere.

I don’t wanna tell you too much though. It is a small town, a village with a car museum (which is totally worth checking out), a coffee shop, a chapel, a hotel and a few people that are dressed in an old-fashioned way. You will fall in love with Matjiesfontein. Promise.

Tip: Go on a 10-minute-tour with the old red London Double Decker Bus – it stops in front of every building and the driver gives you a quick overview of the history. by Antonia Heil

Matjiesfontein was founded in 1884 by the legendary James Douglas Logan.  It became well known for its splendid historical buildings. The entire Village was restored in 1970 and declared a National Historic Monument. Here you can step back in time and take a trip on an old London Bus that does a daily tour, sip on your wine aboard an original steam train, be summoned to dinner by the sounds of trumpets playing or visit one of its two museums. The recently established Transport Museum, featuring old vintage cars and trains is a heaven for old timer-lovers. Matjiesfontein is indeed a great countryside getaway where pure relaxation is enjoyed. In addition, Matjiesfontein has excellent facilities to cater for weddings or conferences. Cape Town and its surrounds offer an endless array of wonderful things to do, from wildlife and ocean excursions to history as well as food and wine delights. For more Cape Town inspiration check our Things to do section .

CapeTownMagazine.com

Unwrapping Cape Town with you

There's something exciting going on in Cape Town every week. Be the first to know what's new with our newsletter:

• Latest Added

High-end investment geared for short-term rentals

100% of the Finding The Light proceeds go to the Kolisi Foundation

Experience an immersive sensory journey into the depths of the earth

SOLD OUT in 4 minutes: see why

Blind & free tastings, fashion store, rooftop paint social…

Buttery croissants, fresh bread, tarts – plus it’s affordable

KidsCon, celebrity guests, competitions, & speed networking

30 years of democracy, 10 ways to celebrate

Join us in creating a DNA-changing impact on the province

Reach people in the mood to discover. We're in it for you.

Freedom Day, salsa dancing, painting, comics and more

Blind wine tasting, go-karting, coffee atelier and more

Spend the entire weekend walking less than a kilometer up this inspirational ...

CapeTownMagazine.com in the Media

We've discovered some of the best roasteries and cafés in the Mother ...

Locals can vouch for these fish eateries

Vegan ice cream parlour

Cape Town now has its own ring; the Cape Town Ring

A selection of Cape Town's unusual accommodation

Everything you need to know about work visa applic

Your health and fitness questions answered

Taste whiskies from across the globe

National state of disaster finally lifts

Best places to watch the rugby

Valentine's Day in Cape Town

Lorem ipsum doloris sit amet tosectet uert aos adipiscing lorem ipsum epis

STAY IN TOUCH

Things to Do

Accommodation, get more of molo.

Every month something you do not want to miss.

• In the Media
• Work with us
• Submit events
• Advertising
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of use

© 2005 - 2024 Cape Town Magazine PTY Ltd. All rights strictly reserved [2005 - 2024].

Curious to make exciting discoveries in Cape Town every day? "LIKE" us for a daily hidden gem. ▼

Matjiesfontein – A small village with a huge history

Matjiesfontein

The quaint Victorian village of Matjiesfontein whispers of a rich history filled with money, murders and ghosts. It was established in 1883/1884 by a Scotsman, James Douglas Logan, as a health resort where those with lung complaints could recuperate. Logan believed that the Karoo air had cured his own weak chest.

Lampposts from London were imported to light up the village’s main street and the resort was frequented by affluent people from around the world, a fashionable thing to do at the time. Cecil John Rhodes, the Sultan of Zanzibar, Sir Randolph Churchill (father of Sir Winston), and Rudyard Kipling were some of its patrons. The famous South African writer, Olive Schreiner was a resident there. The villa she rented next to the post office is still known as Schreiner Cottage.

Preserved as a National Heritage Site since 1975, Matjiesfontein’s main constituents are the Lord Milner hotel, which was built in 1899, a couple of museums, and several Victorian cottages. The hotel once served as a military hospital. Long-gone soldiers are said to haunt the village.  Thankfully I didn’t encounter any.

Lord Milner Hotel

On my first visit there, we were driving on a road trip to Cape Town from Johannesburg . The Blue Train had stopped overnight. As guidelines in the village were a bit scarce, we left without knowing about all its attractions. My second visit was courtesy of Rovos Rail , on which we had arrived for a tour. My third visit was on the Blue Train, en-route to Johannesburg, and was also different from the other two visits.

My visit to Matjiesfontein on Rovos Rail

On this occasion, we were armed with a map of the important features, ensuring that we did not miss much, and given time to explore.

Rovos Rail in Matjiesfonein

Matjiesfontein map

We were dropped off by the train to walk the last bit to the village. The cool, refreshing morning walk amidst the expansive Karoo plains was a great way to start the day. As we approached the village, we were sung to by a group of children, eagerly awaiting benefactions from the tourists.

Children of Matjiesfontein

The pond, fountains, and beautiful gardens around the hotel form a lush oasis in the desert. “The Beefeater”, a blood-red old London bus takes pride of place against the trees lining the railway station.

The museums were impressive. The first one we visited was a vintage car museum. At first glance, it is a small showroom with some old cars in it. However, there is a back door leading to a much more impressive collection of vintage cars, bicycles and old steam trains. The collection includes two Royal Daimlers from King George VI’s 1947 tour of South Africa in 1947, on which he was accompanied by Princess Elizabeth (the current Queen Elizabeth) and the late Princess Margaret. Next to the museum is a large field on which the first international game of cricket was played in South Africa in 1896.

Vintage cars

Rolls Royce

Steam train

The Marie Rawdon Museum is a magnificent collection of Victorian memorabilia including furniture, old cameras, toilets and recreated scenes including a grim-looking dentist’s surgery and a barber’s shop. Budget on spending a lot of time there.

Matjiesfontein Scenes

"Home Affairs"

The crisp fresh air and the historical surroundings made for a revitalising escape back in time. I also saw alot more on my second trip than I did on the first. I did have one regret though. Having previously read up on the village, I knew much of its history but it was lost upon my fellow travellers. They had no idea of the historical significance of the village - even after the visit - and were amazed when I shared some of it with them. This is where a knowledgeable tour guide would have added immense value to the visit.

Logan's Garden

My visit to Matjiesfontein on The Blue Train

The Blue Train stopped here en-route to Pretoria, from Cape Town. We were welcomed by Johnny, the resident tour guide (and entertainer), who was blowing the bugle and calling out to everyone to board the Red Bus.

Johnny outside the Blue Train

Although I'd heard about Johnny before, it was the first time I met him. It was also my first time on this bus and I found a seat on the top deck. It was quite old inside, as expected, and some of the seats were not in great condition. Johnny welcomed us to the shortest tour in South Africa. I found it to be the most entertaining too. The guests were in stitches as Johnny showed us around Matjiesfontein , talking in a stern voice but repeating phrases like "It's show-time!", "I love it when you talk foreign" , "We are going to turn left/right because we cannot turn right/left" and addressing the bus by its name, Futtom Fluffy.

The Beefeater

When the tour was over, he took the guests for drinks then showed us around the public areas of the Lord Milner Hotel.

I asked him about the ghosts, and he pointed out a small chest to me, in the lounge saying that there was a photo of the ghost in there. This was the photo I saw. And apparently, it's real.

Do you spot the ghost?

Related posts:

• Road trip to Cape Town from Johannesburg
• Walking Tour of the Bo-Kaap in Cape Town
• The Marine Hotel - The Grande Dame of Hermanus
• The Hyatt Regency Cape Town – A luxe stay in the Bo-kaap

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

What are you looking for?

Get your free south africa bucket list guide.

Things you must do in South Africa

Get the best accommodation deals

Join 100,000+ Fans

Unforgettable experiences

ROVOS RAIL - CAPE TOWN JOURNEY

Rovos rail - cape town to victoria falls.

3 NIGHTS • 1600km This meander is a perfect illustration of South Africa as a world in one country. Travel the grasslands of the gold-rich Highveld to the haunting barrenness of the Great Karoo; trundle through the spectacular mountain ranges and scenic winelands of the Cape. Journey’s end is Cape Town, the Mother City of South Africa, cradled by the imposing bulk of Table Mountain, Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head. Highlights of the north- and southbound routes include a visit to the historic village of Matjiesfontein, an authentically preserved Victorian Village founded as a refreshment stop in 1890, which also boasts an impressive museum on the platform. Another stop is made in Kimberley to visit the Diamond Mine Museum and the world’s largest man-made excavation, the Big Hole.  Available in reverse.

PRETORIA-CAPE TOWN ITINERARY > CAPE TOWN-PRETORIA ITINERARY >

We are adjusting the Cape Town journey to new running times in 2026 and begin the transition in 2025: 2024   The departure and arrival times will remain constant. 2025   Certain dates* will carry the new departure and arrival times; the rest remain the same (current times). 2026   All dates will carry the new departure and arrival times.

Current 2024 + Current 2025 PRY-CPT >  D  10:00 –  A 10:00 CPT-PRY >  D  16:00 –  A 10:00 New 2025 # + New 2026 PRY-CPT >  D  10:00 –  A 15:00 CPT-PRY >  D  09:30 –  A  15:00 # PRY-CPT 2025 : 17 Jan, 18 Feb, 28 Feb, 30 Jun, 25 Jul, 22 Aug, 19 Sep, 20 Nov, 21 Nov, 5 Dec, 23 Dec # CPT-PRY 2025 : 13 Feb, 17 Feb, 4 Mar, 27 Mar, 15 Apr, 9 May, 29 Jul, 26 Aug, 28 Oct, 25 Nov, 9 Dec, 27 Dec

Please refer to our schedules for key information: Rates & Dates 2023-2024 Rates & Dates 2024-2025

REMINDER about the line closure into our station in Pretoria and the alternative arrival point at Kookrus.

• Journey through the Cape Winelands
• Traverse the Karoo
• Kimberley Diamond Mine Museum tour
• Matjiesfontein visit

BOOK ENQUIRE

Suites & Rates

Information, collections.

© Rovos Rail. 2024. Built & maintained by TYL

All about Ashland Train Day: Virginia town's street festival and railroad extravaganza

ASHLAND, Va. -- Ashland Train Day, a free street festival and railroad extravaganza that celebrates the charming Virginia town's love of all things trains, is Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

"We want to make the tracks the center of the center of the universe. So we're surrounding the tracks with all of our railroad fun," Louise Keaton, the marketing director for Downtown Ashland Association, said.

For two decades, Ashland has celebrated its love for trains with the festival.

"Our entire downtown was built around these tracks in the 1800s," Keaton said. "We want to celebrate that history by sharing our history, by creating events like Ashland Day, and here at Downtown Ashland Association we're working towards the vitality of our downtown every day."

For the 20th anniversary of Ashland Train Day, visitors can expect to see more vendors, food trucks as well as some special attractions.

"We have railroad history thanks to the National Museum, the Hanover Black Heritage Society and the Haunted History Tours of Ashland," Keaton said. "We of course have Touch a Truck thanks to RCI Builders, so you can get a hands-on experience with your favorite vehicles."

There is a scavenger hunt, model trains for the kids, and new this year, a beer garden for the adults at the Hanover Arts and Activity Center.

"Our 20th anniversary is being celebrated by Amtrak with the Amtrak raffle to two tickets anywhere along the East Coast," Keaton said. "As well as by Sports Page Bar and Grill and Trackside Kitchen and Wine. They are the reason that today is entirely free."

Registration for the Amtrak raffle is now open online. The winner will be announced on Train Day.

"One of the things we're most excited about is Children's Day, thanks to Los Regios. They are bringing the Mexican Children's Day traditions right here to Ashland just like they do every day through their store," Keaton said.

Teresa Lopez de Ocanas, who owns Los Regios said the store just celebrated its second anniversary.

I've been living here since 2010 and I love Train Day," Lopez de Ocanas said. "I love my town and I love to see all the trains. At first, believe me, when I moved here, I was like, 'Oh my God, trains!' You know all the sounds, but you [end up] loving your town that you know is full of trains during the day."

And now her store, in partnership with the YMCA, is hosting the Children's Day Celebration with performances, entertainment and giveaways.

"We have more than 300 toys that we're gonna give away to all the kids that show up that day," she said. "We have a special bag full of candy and some of the information from you know, different stuff here in Ashland."

Street parking is available for Train Day, but there is also parking at three designated areas with free shuttle rides sponsored by Randolph Macon College.

"We also suggest that you go ahead and take the train into Ashland," Keaton encouraged. "So that way you can be dropped off right in the middle of all of the action without having to worry about parking at all."

More than 200 volunteers and first responders help make the free event such a success.

Click here for more information about Ashland Train Day.

Do you know about a good news story happening in your community?  Click here to email WTVR.com and the CBS 6 News team.

Depend on CBS 6 News and WTVR.com for more complete coverage of news in your neighborhood and community. Have a story idea, email our team at [email protected]. Or click here if you are interested in having a CBS 6 anchor, reporter or meteorologist attend or MC an event.

Find unique, award-winning stories every day on CBS 6 News

Virginia boy who loves John Deere tractors finishes cancer treatment

"We weren't sure we'd even see this day, but he's been a trooper from the very beginning."

The award-winning WTVR CBS 6 journalists are giving a voice to your story. Discover the incredible places and meet the exceptional people who call Central Virginia home.

Sign up for the Headlines Newsletter and receive up to date information.

Now signed up to receive the headlines newsletter..

Entertainment

Watch 'The Jennifer Hudson Show' weekdays at 3 p.m. on CBS 6!

What's faster: train or car? Worcester to Boston commuters say it's not that simple a choice

It was 5:30 a.m. when we arrived at the starting line: the middle of an empty Union Station in Worcester.

One team — a reporter and commuter — was about to board the train to Boston. The other reporter-commuter duo was ready to carpool. The race was set, and the stakes were high: Last one to South Station would buy breakfast.

The race, albeit silly, was our way of witnessing firsthand the daily experience of workers who travel between Boston and Worcester. Although the cities are the two largest in New England and just about 47 miles apart, commuters say the trip in no way reflects their proximity.

“It’s not as simple as it was described to me,” said Onica Washington-Moore, who drives to her job as a fellow at Massachusetts General Hospital because she said the train takes too long.

The first leg

Neither of our journeys began particularly smoothly.

The commuter rail platform at Union Station is under construction — which meant a rather unpleasant walk for the roughly two dozen people who boarded the train on this bitterly cold, windy March morning.

Tracy O’Connell Novick was our commuter that took the train. After she boarded and found a seat at a table, she pulled out her laptop to check the news of the day.

“Once I step onto the train, I realize my shoulders relax because it’s no longer my problem, and I’m able to work. So I can just do my stuff here,” Tracy said. “It’s actually somebody else’s job to get us there.”

As the horn blared and the train rolled away through the darkness, Onica, who said yes to our carpool plan, began the drive to Boston in her Subaru Crosstrek.

Her trip usually takes her about an hour, as long as she leaves Worcester by 6 a.m. If she doesn’t, she’ll end up stuck in gridlock traffic that can take more than two hours to move through.

As Onica jumped on the Mass Pike this morning, everything seemed fine until it became clear there was an accident. Police cars and ambulances drove past her, traffic built up.

“I’m just thinking about, like I can hop off [the pike],” she said, noting sometimes she takes Route 9 if there are accidents.

The break of dawn

As the sun rose, the commuter rail train steadily meandered through forests in between stops around MetroWest where more passengers boarded. Meanwhile, Onica — who likes to listen to news programming, J-pop and hits from the ’80s and ’90s — decided to stay on the pike, clearing the traffic after passing the accident.

Driving hasn’t always been Onica’s preferred method of traveling to Boston. In fact, when she decided to move from South Carolina to Massachusetts a few years ago, the commuter rail was a big reason why. Worcester was about halfway from her job in Boston and her husband’s in Amherst. She had read online that the commuter rail would be an easy way for her to travel to and from Boston.

For a while, Onica relied on an express train to Boston in the morning and another back to Worcester in the afternoon. Both trains made limited stops between Worcester and West Natick, keeping the entire trip each way to just one hour.

But last fall, the MBTA and its commuter rail operator Keolis phased out the express service, adding more stops to meet demand around MetroWest. Suddenly, the roundtrip between Worcester and Boston took an extra hour. Onica said she had no choice but to start driving more often, which isn’t an ideal option either.

She has to leave her house in the morning by 6 a.m. to avoid rush hour traffic on the Mass Pike. And she’s concerned about the additional wear and tear on her car and the extra carbon emissions involved with driving to Boston.

“But also I have to do what I need to do to survive,” she said. “It was very premature for them to scrap the express train.”

Tracy has continued to rely on the commuter rail because her family shares one car. But the end of the express service has also significantly impacted her schedule. She used to take a 6:30 a.m. express train that ensured she’d arrive at her office by 8 a.m. Now, she needs to wake up an hour earlier to catch the 5:45 a.m. train.

“There are worse ways of spending three hours of your life. Like sitting on the pike would be worse,” she said. “But we are also the second largest city in New England. So I don’t feel like it’s unreasonable to say once a day it should take an hour to get from Worcester to Boston.”

The MBTA and Keolis announced Thursday that this spring, they will bring back the Worcester express train to Boston in the morning. However, there will not be an express service back to Worcester in the afternoon.

The final stretch

The Downtown Boston skyline gradually became more visible as Onica hit the 50-minute mark of her drive, passing the Boston Landing commuter rail station.

The train had finished making the stops up to West Natick but was struggling to keep up.

Onica said she would consider taking the commuter rail again if the trip didn’t take so long and better accommodated her work schedule. It’d also help if the train was more affordable, she said.

Each roundtrip drive, including tolls and parking near MGH, costs her about $22. The commuter rail, by comparison, is about $24.50.

Worcester to Boston travelers note that the commuter rail will only become more important as the state begins its Allston Multimodal Project in the next few years. The nearly $2 billion plan will involve replacing a section of the pike that’s currently elevated above Allston. Although the project is supposed to increase transit connectivity and access to the Charles River, traffic is expected to worsen during construction.

“What is that mitigation plan gonna be?” asked Jarred Johnson, executive director of the advocacy group Transit Matters. “How are we going to ensure that the Worcester [commuter rail] line is open virtually the entire time through construction.”

The MBTA and Keolis have an opportunity to start answering those questions and satisfying people in Worcester that take the commuter rail to Boston.

In a recent release, Worcester Mayor Joseph Petty argued the locality is an alternative for people who can’t afford to live in Boston and “efficient and multiple express trains to Boston is a must if the City of Worcester will continue to grow and prosper.”

During their board meeting Thursday, MBTA officials said the express service this spring will begin May 20. The train will leave Worcester’s Union Station at 7:40 a.m. and arrive at Boston’s South Station at 8:45 a.m.

Tracy said that timing will not accommodate her schedule, so she’ll have to continue waking up in the wee hours of the morning to take the 5:45 a.m. train — the same 5:45 a.m. train that can’t keep up with a car.

Our carpool duo arrived in Onica’s Subaru at a bustling South Station in just under an hour.

It was nearly another 30 minutes before our train team rolled in.

So if you can convince a friend or colleague to race you there, pick the car if you want a complimentary croissant and coffee.

Explore Topics:

More local news.

Northeastern protestors reject university's reasoning for clearing pro-Palestinian encampment

Police clear pro-Palestinian encampment at Northeastern

Over 1 million Americans start menopause every year. Why don’t we talk about it?

A drop of ghost pepper with your clam chowder? A new Cambridge hot sauce festival will bring the heat

• Share full article

Advertisement

Supported by

The Maya Train Will Get You to All of Yucatán’s Best Spots. But Not Yet.

In December, the train began running on its first route through Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. On a five-day journey a few months later, the author encountered enthusiasm, and scheduling hiccups.

By Elisabeth Malkin

Elisabeth Malkin has been visiting the Yucatán Peninsula for three decades.

I stepped off the platform at the gleaming new Maxcanú train station, eager to see the magnificent Maya archaeological site of Uxmal. All I needed was a taxi to take me there, a trip of about 30 miles away.

There are no taxis, said the stationmaster, as we stood on the polished limestone floors of the high-ceilinged station, which was cool and breezy despite the brilliant late-morning sun outside. And I was the third person in two weeks to get off at Maxcanú expecting to reach Uxmal, he said.

I was midway through a five-day trip to explore the brand-new Maya Train and several of its destinations in the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico . Designed to run 965 miles (1,554 kilometers) around a loop of 34 stations when completed, the train will whisk passengers in cool comfort through colonial cities, archaeological sites, splashy resorts and tropical forests.

Now I was stunned. Wrangling a taxi has never been a problem in Mexico. But the drivers gathered in the main square of Maxcanú offered only beat-up vans that hopscotch through small towns, where I might or might not find a taxi to Uxmal. The next van was leaving in 45 minutes.

Yucatán’s layers of history have long held me spellbound. During earlier car trips, I have clambered up deserted Maya temples and palaces, stepped into the cool naves of massive 16th-century churches and visited restored haciendas, testaments of the ostentation — and hardship — of the peninsula’s 19th-century plantation economy. Traveling by train, I thought, would allow me to steep myself in more of that history.

But as I found in Maxcanú, a train won’t necessarily get you to where you want to go.

During my February trip, I traveled on the only route then available, an east-west leg that opened in December and runs from Cancún to Mérida, and then south through the port city of Campeche to the Maya site of Palenque (a short route between Cancún and Playa del Carmen opened last month, with three trains a day). I encountered scheduling confusion, unfinished stations and a dearth of trains — just two operating daily each way between Cancún and Campeche, and only one to Palenque. Overnight sleepers and special dining trains seem years away.

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador considers the Maya Train his showcase development project, and wants to inaugurate the rest of the train before he leaves office on October 1. Based on my experience, that goal seems elusive.

A $29-billion route through the jungle

I started my journey in Cancún, where in the pre-dawn gloom the station hovered like a glowing spaceship. An attendant scanned the ticket I had bought online and a half-dozen more pointed me toward my tourist-class car, which was about a quarter full. I planned to go to Campeche, about 300 miles away, stopping once each day. At 120 kilometers (about 75 miles) an hour, the train covers the route in about six hours, the same as a car. (When construction is complete, the train’s speed should increase to 160 kilometers an hour.)

The car’s wide windows looked out at a wall of low jungle. The blue-green seats were comfortable and there was ample space between the rows. I bought a very good cappuccino at the snack bar, but declined the plastic-wrapped sandwiches. The rest of the merchandise was fruit cups, milk boxes and junk food.

The train will ultimately cost much more than the $29 billion budgeted so far, and it’s not the first time ambitious planners have alighted on the region. Cancún was once a tiny fishing village, selected half a century ago as a tourist hub. Last year 10 million international tourists flew into its airport, more than the airports of Mexico City, Los Cabos and Puerto Vallarta combined.

But uncontrolled growth has stressed the Caribbean coast’s fragile environment. The Maya Train, scientists warn , will push those problems south, threatening the area’s water supply, its unique system of underground limestone caves and its vast nature reserves.

Mr. López Obrador has charged ahead, handing the train over to the military , and arguing that it will spread Cancún’s wealth and attract new visitors. Mexico received more than 42 million overseas tourists last year and they spent almost $31 billion .

Local governments see an opportunity. “The train will allow people to disperse throughout the peninsula,” said Michelle Fridman, the tourism secretary for Yucatán state, which promotes dozens of attractions far beyond highlights like Mérida and Chichén Itzá .

Now that the train is operating, transport companies will begin to connect stations with lesser-known sites nearby, she said.

It’s fair to ask whether the train is the most effective way to develop the peninsula’s tourism. Tour companies already run trips to many sites from major cities, which are well served by buses. Driving a rental car through most of the area is considered safe , according to U.S. State Department travel guidance .

Route of Mexico’s Maya Train

Canceled trip.

It took two hours (and one time-zone change) to reach Valladolid, a colonial city of handsome streets and ancient churches, where I bought the rest of my tickets at the station. A tourist-class ticket from Cancún to Valladolid costs 472 pesos (around $28) for foreigners and 355 pesos (around $21) for Mexicans. First class, with wider seats, costs 755.50 pesos and 566.50 pesos, and discounts are available for older travelers and residents of the five states along the train’s route. (A first-class bus from downtown Cancún to Valladolid costs between 222 and 344 pesos, depending on the time of day, and takes half an hour longer.)

It was impossible to run the new Maya Train tracks into dense city centers and the Valladolid station, like the rest, was outside the urban core. A waiting bus took disembarking passengers downtown, a 15-minute ride for 35 pesos.

That day I toured Ek Balam , the site of a ninth-century Maya kingdom that is dominated by a 100-foot palace distinguished by a facade of carvings depicting winged warriors, stylized animal features and geometric patterns bordered by giant fangs. Admission to the site includes entry to the X-Canché cenote, one of thousands of limestone sinkholes that were sacred to the Maya.

Later that afternoon, I was wandering through the Museum of Ethnic Clothing, a private collection of traditional dress, embroidery and hats, when a WhatsApp message from the ticket office blinked on my phone. My train scheduled for the following day was canceled.

I decided to deal with the problem in the morning and enjoy the city. As I wandered past the antique shops and boutique hotels of the elegant Calzada de los Frailes, it was clear that Valladolid’s tourism, and the infrastructure to handle it, was well established. The Maya Train is simply an alternative way to reach a city that tourists discovered years ago.

‘We’re on the Tren Maya!’

In the morning, I found that my train had not been canceled, but the station for which I had a ticket, Tixkokob, was closed. I got off instead one stop earlier at Izamal, known for its ocher streets and the giant Franciscan convent of San Antonio de Padua, built atop the ruins of a pyramid.

During the 90-minute ride, I heard widespread enthusiasm among fellow travelers who expressed a willingness to give the train time to work out the kinks. “We’re an experiment,” said Oliva Escobedo Ochoa, 64, who was vacationing from her home in central Mexico.

Leticia Iliassich, 57, who is Mexican, was traveling with her Croatian husband along with relatives from Mexico and Croatia. They had initially been scheduled on an earlier train to Mérida that had been canceled. “We knew that it was a new project,” she said. “We don’t mind.”

The group had already sent a video to friends declaring, “We’re on the Tren Maya!”

At the Izamal station I hitched a 15-minute ride into the town center with a man who had asked me to take his photo alongside the train and his father. From there I negotiated a taxi to Hacienda San Lorenzo Aké, a working hacienda that still turns the fiber from an agave plant called henequén into coarse rope. Global demand for henequén, known as Yucatán’s “green gold,” brought fantastic wealth to the region in the mid-19th century, speckling the peninsula with more than 1,000 haciendas. ( Many are now sumptuous hotels.)

Where geometry, nature and the divine merge

It was during my third day that I found myself stuck in Maxcanú, after a 90-minute train ride from Izamal. The stationmaster, an army captain, offered me a ride to Uxmal, just as he had to the stranded tourists before me.

Eying Uxmal’s 4 p.m. final ticket sale, I accepted.

My situation made it clear just how distant the Maya Train’s promises are for tourists seeking to explore more of Yucatán. In time, that will change, said Ms. Fridman, the tourism secretary. “The idea is to have more hotels along the train line,” she said. “That will happen little by little.”

But Uxmal , among the most stunning of the Maya sites, made up for the inconvenience. Uxmal’s grand buildings are faced with intricate decorative masks as well as friezes in which geometry, nature and the divine merge. New plaques at each structure offer detailed information in English and Spanish, part of the government’s investment in improving displays at Maya sites for the train project.

Most tourists either take day trips by car or bus to Uxmal from Mérida or stay at one of three nearby hotels. As I finished dinner at my hotel, the dining room began to fill up: 47 Polish tourists had arrived.

Panama hats and a cramped van

My plan for the day was to go by taxi to Bécal, a town where Panama hats are woven in limestone caves to keep the fibers soft, and then pick up the afternoon train in nearby Calkiní for the port city of Campeche.

But I spent so much time watching the hat-making demonstration and then fitting my new hat and buying gifts that we set off with little time to reach the station. To my chagrin, I missed the train, the last one of the day.

On Calkiní’s central square, I found a van that was leaving for Campeche. Cost: 65 pesos. Time: about 1 hour and 20 minutes, similar to what I would have spent on the train. Of course, I was trapped in a cramped seat and had to listen to the driver’s choice of sentimental ballads, but I was dropped off in downtown Campeche, close to my hotel.

The next day, I toured the Museum of Maya Archaeology , an expertly curated collection that included haunting jade funeral masks, glyphs and delicate ceramic figures.

José Madrigal, 45, an engineer from Fremont, Calif., was trying to make Maya pottery interesting for his twin sons. The boys had just turned 5 and their birthday present had been a ride on the Maya Train. “They love trains,” Mr. Madrigal said. Then the family moved on, keeping up a brisk clip through the museum. They had another train to catch.

Should you take the train?

Yes, if you are traveling between larger stations. The train also offers a way to get to Palenque, which is harder to reach and has roads with security concerns. Travelers can stow bicycles on board.

To see train times, check the destinations on the website . You cannot buy tickets online more than a week in advance. But when you finally board, the ride is smooth — and the coffee is excellent.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2024 .

Open Up Your World

Considering a trip, or just some armchair traveling here are some ideas..

52 Places:  Why do we travel? For food, culture, adventure, natural beauty? Our 2024 list has all those elements, and more .

Mumbai:  Spend 36 hours in this fast-changing Indian city  by exploring ancient caves, catching a concert in a former textile mill and feasting on mangoes.

Kyoto:  The Japanese city’s dry gardens offer spots for quiet contemplation  in an increasingly overtouristed destination.

Iceland:  The country markets itself as a destination to see the northern lights. But they can be elusive, as one writer recently found .

Texas:  Canoeing the Rio Grande near Big Bend National Park can be magical. But as the river dries, it’s getting harder to find where a boat will actually float .

• Tribute to David Rawdon
• Video Gallery
• The Swimming Pool Suite
• Douglas Cottage
• Olive Schreiner Cottage
• Reston Villa
• The Old Museum Suite
• The Riverbank Rooms
• The Garden Mews Rooms
• The Hotel Dining Room
• The Laird's Arms
• Coffee House
• The Old Post Office
• Pink Church
• Historic Cricket Pitch
• Court House and Jail
• The Old Bank Building
• British Army Remount Camp
• Flourmill and Mineral Waterworks
• The Railway Station
• Travellers Chapel
• Weddings & Special Occasions
• Corporate & Conferences
• For Travellers and Guests
• For Production Companies
• For Wedding Planners

The Matjiesfontein Bucket List

The ultimate guide to exploring Matjiesfontein.

Matjiesfontein - a quaint and self-contained village at the fringe of the Great Karoo that is rich in history and old world charm. This gem of a town will take you back to the 1800’s with its splendid historical buildings and stories from the Victorian era.

Besides a journey back in time, Matjiesfontein also offers a host of exciting and adventurous activities to complement your stay – The Matjiesfontein Bucket List. From an informative, historical bus tour to mountain biking in the vast open Karoo, you’ll have plenty of new memories to take home.

Your Guide to Matjiesfontein

Tennis with a View

Matjiesfontein has a tennis court available for guests, surrounded by beautiful views of the Karoo. Rackets and tennis balls are available at reception for an intense workout or a friendly game.

Mountain Biking

Bring your bike and ride along the sweeping untouched landscape of the Great Karoo on our 20km mountain biking track, where you will be treated to beautiful views of the Witteberg Mountains.

Situated behind the Lord Milner Hotel is our swimming pool, set in sprawling green gardens. Known to be the “coldest swimming pool in Africa”, it will certainly cool you down and makes it one for The Bucket List. Take a dip in those warm summer months or, if you don’t want to brave the cold, sit back and relax on our sun loungers and soak up the beautiful surroundings.

Take a historical tour around Matjiesfontein in an old red double-decker London bus with town guide and entertainer, John Theunissen, or Johnny as he’s fondly known. Not only will you experience the shortest bus tour known to man, Johnny will keep you in high spirits with his witty charm, Nelson Mandela impressions and hilarious one-liners: “Vat hom Fluffy”, as he delves into the town’s amazing history. Bus departs from the Laird's arms around 17h30 every day. 

Being situated in the Great Karoo region, Matjiesfontein has one of the clearest skies in the Southern hemisphere, offering a spectacular star gazing experience.

Self-guided Walking Tour 

Try a fun and different way to explore the town’s rich history with VoiceMap – a self-guided walking tour of the town (virtual tour also available). Simply download the app (it’s free) on Google Play or Apple Store - or use the QR code - it uses your location to play audio automatically and includes offline maps. Just put on your headphones and you’re ready to explore and learn about the different facets of Matjies’s history. Starting at the majestic Lord Milner Hotel, you'll be guided down the main street, through the immaculate gardens, and along the train station, ending up at The Laird's Arms for a well-deserved ice-cold Matjies brew. Click here for more info.

Pop into the Transport Museum housing a collection of old vintage cars that date back from the 1930s through to the 1960s. Be sure to also visit the Marie Rawdon Museum, which showcases the largest private artefacts and memorabilia collection from the Anglo-Boer War, in the world.

From The Guestbook

A grand experience.

Well worth the trip, staying at the Lord Milner takes one back a century. It is like living in a museum, with all the grandeur of days gone by. If you are lucky to meet them (we weren't), there are ghosts to be encountered in the hallways and in the pink church. Food is exquisite, staff friendly and entertainment by Johnny in the pub great - after what may... Read More

5 out of 5 for tasty hot food

5 out of 5 for piping hot food It is so rare that your main course and Malva pudding are delivered piping hot. The Lamb chops were extremely tasty and made more tasty because they were piping hot. Also served on hot plates. The historical ambience and Pub Piano player really add to a most memorable visit. Highly recommended

Another excellent visit to the Lord Milner Hotel

Step back in time and treat yourself to a visit to this historic hotel. I have visited around once a year for the past decade and always enjoy the friendliness and the history of the buildings and surroundings. The Laird's Arms is one of my favorite pubs anywhere in th world.

Fantastic - Must Visit!

This is a must add to your bucket list. Oom Johnny and the red bus made the trip extra special especially the entertainment he provided in the pub. Super friendly service for ALL staff and excellent food. Thanks for making our Christmas eve supper one to remember.

Matjiesfontein News

Matjiesfontein on Facebook

Share this page.

Two nights, three provinces, and 1,600 miles. A sleeper train through Maritime Canada is slow travel at its best.

Via rail’s sleepy eastern route brings travelers through rural villages and towns in quebec, new brunswick, and nova scotia..

C HARLO, New Brunswick — I woke up with the sun peeking through the curtains of my sleeper car, and I couldn’t wait to see what was happening on the other side. I felt like a kid on Christmas morning, a kid with noticeable flecks of gray hair in his bedhead, but a kid just the same. I sat up, wrapped myself in the bed’s comforter like a burrito, and yanked back the drapes.

I was suddenly looking at a sunny snowscape in northern New Brunswick. This was a thrill because when I boarded the Via Rail train at Montreal Central Station the day before, there was no snow, and the sky was the color of dishwater. Having experienced little to no winter in Boston, seeing this Bing Crosby landscape was a refreshing change of pace.

While I slowly woke up, the train rumbled along the tracks, and I watched the broad blue expanse of Chaleur Bay slowly pass by. Across the water, the hills and cliffs of the Gaspé and Acadian peninsulas were visible. It was as if the entire scene had been timed perfectly for the morning entertainment of the train’s passengers.

I was traveling Via Rail Canada’s Ocean route from Montreal to Halifax. The train wasn’t as glamorous as the Rocky Mountaineer, nor was the scenery as grand as the Winnipeg to Churchill trip. But Via Rail’s 22-hour route is a lovely travel throwback with gorgeous scenery. Thanks to the strength of the US dollar against the Canadian dollar, I was able to score a sleeper car with a private bathroom (complete with a shower) for $400 a night. It also helped that I was traveling during mud season. Rates go up during the summer and into foliage season.

The fare included all meals, which were served in the dining car on actual plates with actual flatware. I reasoned that I was getting a room, all meals, and the constant entertainment of the ever-changing landscape for $400 a night. That seemed like a decent deal. I decided to book my return to Montreal on the train as well. That would give me a solid 44 hours on board.

Advertisement

The train departed Montreal at 7 p.m. on Friday and was scheduled to arrive in Halifax at 5:51 p.m on Saturday. I was curious to see how Via Rail, Canada’s national rail company, compared with Amtrak, particularly its sleeper cars. As I cased out my room, I watched the Farine Five Roses sign and the rest of the Montreal skyline disappear behind us. My cabin was designed for two people, but I wanted a room with an en suite bath and shower. The cabin was about 30 square feet (not including the bathroom). It had a sofa that folded down to a bed, with a bunk bed that folded down above it. There was a narrow closet, and in the bathroom, there were towels, a bottle of shampoo, and a bar of soap.

It wasn’t the Ritz, but it was clean and cozy. These cars were built for the canceled European Nightstar train service in the late 1990s. The trains would have used the Chunnel to take passengers from London to cities in mainland Europe. When the project failed to materialize, Via Rail bought the cars and shipped them to Canada in 2000. Despite being in service for nearly 25 years, the train was in good shape.

After inspecting and unpacking, it was dinner time. We were well on our way to Quebec City by the time I sat down and perused the menu. I opted for leek-crusted chicken with wild rice pilaf and roasted butternut squash. This was better than any meal I had ever consumed on an Amtrak train . I was seated with a retired sports editor (pure coincidence) from New York. He had taken most of the Amtrak overnight trains in the United States and now wanted to sample Canada’s offerings.

He agreed with me that the food was better than Amtrak, and the train cars were generally in better condition, but he pointed out something I hadn’t noticed: The staff was much friendlier than the staff on Amtrak, and it made a huge difference. One of my chief complaints, particularly on Amtrak’s Silver Meteor, is that the staff often seemed surly.

By the time I finished dinner and returned to my room, the attendant had made up the bed. I decided I would try sleeping in the bunk, but I quickly soured on the idea when I realized the only way in and out was a narrow ladder. The bunk seemed a bit high for my liking. I folded it back and slept on the lower bed. The bed is 6 feet long and about 2½ feet wide, so it may not be ideal for taller passengers. The mattress was comfortable, and the comforter was wonderfully thick. Each cabin has individual temperature controls, so even though the temperature was in the single digits outside, I was tucked away comfortably for the night. I’m a light sleeper, but I dozed off quickly.

The next morning, it was time to test the shower. To my shock and delight, the water was hot enough, and the pressure wasn’t bad. I went to the dining car and tried the breakfast poutine. I concluded that poutine is a perfect all-day meal. I wrote “open 24-hour poutine restaurant” in my notebook and watched as the train gradually made its way inland. My breakfast companion was a retired teacher from Montreal who was going to visit her grandchildren in Halifax.

“Don’t you dare write anything bad about this train,” she sternly warned me as only a teacher could. “It’s my favorite way to get to Nova Scotia. If it shuts down I’ll blame you.”

The scenery out the window was always changing. When I left Montreal, it was gray. Coastal New Brunswick was snowy and bright, and as the train descended south, the snow disappeared, and the sky darkened. By the time we neared the Bay of Fundy, it was snowing, and then it was raining, and then the sun started peaking out.

The biggest frustration was that the train was running two hours behind schedule. I had made dinner reservations in Halifax for Saturday night but missed them because of the delay. I had one night in the city before getting back on the train the next day and lost precious time.

Another frustration I faced was that the train’s observation car was no longer used. One of the best parts of taking a scenic train is, well, watching the scenery. I could still see the countryside from my room, the lounge, or the restaurant, but the glass-domed observation car on the Ocean route was removed two years ago because of a track change in Halifax. Having that car would have made the experience even more special.

I got back on the train Sunday afternoon, settled into my new room, which was identical to the previous one, and headed back to the cafe car for lunch. All of this investigative reporting was really adding inches to my waistline. I tried the gnocchi pomodoro and decided to treat myself to a glass of local wine. Unlike Amtrak, alcohol is not free in Via Rail’s sleeper class. Again, I was impressed with the menu options, service, and food.

I watched the small towns blur past from the lounge car, one of the few places on the train where the internet was available. Even so, it was usually empty. The pace of train travel, devoid of the internet, is a rare treat. Eventually, a pair of sisters came into the lounge car and asked me if I wanted to play cards with them. I honestly couldn’t remember the last time I played cards, so I put down my camera and began a game of rummy. I can imagine that this was what travel was like before planes or even cars. Without screens, I was actually looking up, talking to people, and playing a game that wasn’t on my phone.

That night, before I went to bed, I opened my laptop and started scrolling through the photos I’d taken throughout the trip. I frantically scrolled up and down, looking for a big “wow” photo. I needed a picture with pizazz. Then I stopped scrolling and looked at the pictures together. This trip wasn’t about flashy sites or Instagrammable moments. It was a long weekend of fluffy waffles, snow banks, blue rivers, and expansive brown fields.

Mostly, however, it was about taking a moment to slow down and breathe.

Christopher Muther can be reached at [email protected] . Follow him @Chris_Muther and Instagram @chris_muther.